Contents

Acknowledgments xiii The Bakers and Their Contributions xvi

Introduction 1 Ingredients 9 Equipment 30

1 Fried Sweet Pastries and Doughs 42 Calas 44 Fattigman 46 Lebanese Fried Dough 49 Chin Chin 50 Zeppole 52 Puff Puff 54 Strufoli 55 Pa˛czki 57 Cannoli 60 Casatelli 63 Buñuelos 66 Anise Sfi nci 68 Sfi nci di Ricotta 70 Koeksisters 72 Malasadas 74 Thai Fried Bananas 76

2 Flatbreads and More 78 Matzoh 80 Lebanese PitaCOPYRIGHTED 82 MATERIAL Lefse 84 Jian Bing 86 South African Crumpets 89 Flour Tortillas 90 Chapati 92 Puran Poori 94 Kachauri 96 Noreen Kinney’s Irish Soda Bread 98 Sweet Irish Soda Bread (Spotted Dick or Spotted Dog) 100 viii 3 Savory Pastries 102 Cabbage Strudel 104 Potato Porcini Strudel 108 Cheese Sambouseks 111 Chicken and Potato Sambouseks 112 Granny’s Kahk (Savory Bracelets) 114 Empadas 116 Samosas 118 Cucumber Raita 120 Shrimp Rissois 121 Cheese and Potato Pierogi 123 Traditional Cornish Pasties 125 Thai Shrimp and Bean Sprout Fritters 128 Thai Chili Sauce 129 Flaky Turkish Feta Turnovers (Puac¸a) 130

4 Sweet Pastries 132 Date Babas 134 Kolacky 136 Szarlotka 138 Baklawa 140 Apple Strudel 142 Pumpkin Empanadas 146 Folhados 148 Puff Pastry Squares with Lemon Buttercream 151 Pastéis de Nata 152 Polish Poppy Seed Pastry 154 Mazariner 156 German Plum Cake 158 Welsh Griddle Cakes 160 Rugelach 162

ix 5 Savory Yeast Breads and Pies 164 Assyrian Spinach Pies 166 Lithuanian Mushroom Piroshki 168 Beef Piroshki 171 Cornish Splitters 173 Limpa 174 Whole Wheat Oatmeal Loaves 176 Fatayar 178 Kleecha 180 Basic Lebanese Yeast Dough 182 Talami 183 Iraqi Meat Pies 184 Schwabisch Pretzels 188 Syrian Savory Bracelets (Kahk) 192

6 Sweet Yeast Breads 194 Babka 196 German Yeast Fruit Kuchen 200 German Wedding Cakes 202 Bienenstich 204 Streuselkuchen 205 Cardamom Coffee Rolls 206 Cinnamon Buns 208 Kulich 211 Paskha 214 Bara Brith 216 Makowiec 218 Massa Sovada 221 Pluckets (Monkey Bread) 223 Potica 225 Pulla 229 Swedish Saffron Rolls 231 Stollen 233

7 Cookies 236 Chinese Almond Cookies 238 Anzac Cookies 240 Cuccidati (Buccellati) 241 Graibi 244 Krumkaker 246 Melomakarona 248 x Norwegian Walnut Butter Balls 251 Roman Chocolate Cookies 252 Pennsylvania Dutch Soft Sugar Cookies 254 Italian Anise-Orange Cookies 255 Kourabiedes 257 Lithuanian Mushroom Cookies 258 Nussplätzchen 260 Pfeffernüsse 262 Pignoli 264 Scottish Shortbread 266 Swedish Almond Jam Strips 268 Syrupy Almond Cookies 270 Lebkuchen 272

8 Cakes, Tortes, Pies, and Other Desserts 274 Rigo Jancsi 276 Hungarian Walnut Torte 279 Piskóta 281 Welsh Christmas Cake 282 Gâteau Basque 284 Torta di Limone 287 Princess Torte 289 Tosca Cake 292 Boschendal Pudding 294 Swedish Apple Pudding 296 Kransekake 298 Fyrstekake 301 Norwegian Hazelnut Torte 303 Lamingtons 306 Pavlova 308 Chocolate Cinnamon Pavlova 310 Buttermilk Cardamom Waffl es 312 Blueberry Meringue Torte 313 Steamed Chinese-Style Sponge Cake with Chocolate Ginger Sauce 315 Chinese-Style Almond Sponge Cake 317 Turkish Semolina Sponge Cake 318 The Original Shoofl y Pie 320 Betty’s Shoofl y Pie 322 Amish Vanilla Pie 324 Pennsylvania Dutch Crumb Cake 326

xi 9 Basic Recipes 328 Almond Paste 330 Marzipan 331 Rendering Lard 332 Homemade Ricotta 334 Basic Pie Dough 335 German Yeast Dough 336 Vanilla Sugar 337

Index of Recipes by Country or Region 338 Index of Mail Order Sources by Company 341 Index of Mail Order Sources by Specialty Ingredient 346 Bibliography 348 Index 349

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