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Issue No. 229 Friday, May 19 - Thursday, June 01, 2017 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS

Why NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: Serbian party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. presidents page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W rule like June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday,

Milošević page 5 conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the When Aleksandar Vučić assumes After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party the presidency, he will be able E to wield much more power than the job provides for, just like Friday • June 13 2008 predecessors Slobodan Milošević THIS ISSUE OF

and Boris Tadić. Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T

Vanja ĐURIĆ

rime Minister Aleksandar minister too, but the government as Vučić is set to become pres- a body made up of several members ident at the end of May. He has much more power," said Ivosević, is likely to consolidate his a university law professor and former rule in the same way that Supreme Court judge. Pprevious presidents have done in the "But I am afraid that reality in Serbia past, such as his former boss Slobodan is very different from the legal aspects Milošević in the 1990s, experts told and that the future president will be the BIRN. most powerful in Serbian politics, and According to law expert Zoran the new prime minister will do every- Ivosević, there are no legal mecha- thing the president tells him" added nisms or independent bodies in the Ivosević. Serbian political system that could act Vučić, who also leads the ruling right- as checks on the president's power if he wing Serbian Progressive Party, won tries to exert political pressure on the the presidential election with 55.08 per next prime minister, government mem- cent of vote on April 2nd. bers or other state institutions. "Formally, the Serbian president doesn't have so much power, the prime Continued on page 2

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 19 - Thursday, June 01, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 19 - Thursday, June 01, 2017 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 Why Serbian presidents Fighting talk from rule like Milošević Democrat's 'young lion' A rising star of the Democrat Party, Balša Božović is preparing for next year's Belgrade Assembly election with promises to fight voter intimidation and underhand campaign tactics.

Maja ŽIVANOVIĆ "People are in fear of retaliation and [they are] afraid to freely express their outhful, confident and opinion. What will they [the people] very outspoken, Balša think when they see what happens to Božović, opposition Demo- actors, journalists, filmmakers, writers cratic Party MP and mem- and anyone who dares to speak out ber of the Belgrade City against the government?" he said. Assembly,Y is now widely seen a possible High profile critics of the Progressives Democrats' candidate for Mayor of Bel- have been targeted by pro-government grade. news outlets and often accused of be- The 34-year-old is promising to stand ing foreign mercenaries and national against what he claims is a campaign to traitors. suppress free speech and open democ- Vučić said on May 3rd that Serbia is racy led by the ruling national coalition democratic "in general", but that there's government parties, as the capital gears always space for progress in media free- up for city assembly elections next year. dom. He told BIRN that ruling coalition par- He underlined his readiness to speak ties – led by the Serbian Progressive Par- with media with problems in reporting, ty - are preventing opposition parties adding that "those who say that there's from speaking out on key issues and no media freedom [in Serbia] are the even expelling MPs from parliament if ones who often abuse that freedom," they dare raise controversial subjects Tanjug news agency reported. The incoming and the outgoing presidents, from left to right, Aleksandar Vučić and Tomislav Nikolić. Photo: Beta or criticise the current prime minister and president-elect, Aleksandar Vučić. VOTERS 'FEAR e is due to take his oath on participate in power. Fundamentally, from 2004 until 2008, the prime min- notice and create the necessary meas- any failure, the prime minister will be "They [the coalition parties] have REPERCUSSIONS' May 31st when current presi- we have a different situation. The Pro- ister was Vojislav Koštunica from the ures for the development of the coun- responsible," he explained. created a system in which there is no dent Tomislav Nikolić's five- gressives have a majority in parliament right-wing Democratic Party of Serbia. try and society," said Radosavljević, a Radosavljević sees this as an abuse discussion or exchange of opinions… Božović fears ordinary people are year term expires, and then so he could influence MPs and govern- Koštunica and Tadić sometimes professor at the private Law Faculty in of the constitution, because presidents throughout Serbia [we] have people afraid to speak out, concerned that they H Božović fears ordinary people are afraid to speak out, concerned that they might face worse Photo: Beta he has 30 days to propose the next new ment members," he suggested. clashed over key issues like the econ- Novi Sad. generally kept their party positions. who are losing their jobs because they might face worse repercussions – and repercussions – and less support – if they take a stand. prime minister to parliament. He recalled that Boris Tadić from the omy, Kosovo, Serbia joining the Euro- Slobodan Milošević, who headed "That was something that Milošević do not vote for the ruling party, people less support – if they take a stand. He Ivosević notes that according to the Democratic Party, who was president pean Union. the Socialist Party, was the Serbian and Tadić did, so I presume Vučić will are threatened, blackmailed, and har- says the Democrats have to lead by ex- tee. Whoever does not support reveal- ing the government must respect the "It seems that Vuk Jeremić in this constitution, the president cannot hold from 2004 to 2012, acted in a similar But in Tadić's second term, from president from 1991 to 1997, and also," said Radosavljević. assed," claims Božović. ample. ing the truth is an accomplice," he says. law and that it should be applied as the campaign profiled as a politician with two or more positions. way; his Prime Minister Mirko Cvetković 2008 until 2012, the PM was the more Radosavljević highlighted similarities If the president could be chosen by Božović, whose party is still the main "We have to be the first to show that "The phantom mask will remain courts decide. attitudes that are quite right wing in re- This means Vučić will have to resign was seen by the public as his puppet. pliable Cvetković. between his time in office and today. parliament instead of being directly opposition in Serbia, although it got we will not give up under pressure, [or] a symbol of their [the Progressive's] "Politicians should do their job and lation to the Democratic Party," Božović from the chief's position at Security "Actually, [Vučić] decided to be a can- Political analyst Duško Radosavljević "From Milošević's period until now, elected, this would ensure the division around 6 per cent of support in the last shut up in the face of pressure and re- power because not only were three let the authorised prosecutors do their says. Service Coordination Bureau of the Re- didate for president only to prevent told BIRN that Serbian presidents like the president's position has been a of power between the presidency and general elections held in April 2016, also treat." structures demolished… the state was job. Ultimately, whether someone likes Asked whether he sees himself as a public of Serbia and also to quit the somebody else, from another party, the role because it allows them to avoid comfortable place for the chief of the the prime minister, he suggested, be- claimed the Progressives are keeping While the Belgrade City Assembly demolished [that night]… someone pre- it or not, the courts in this country make candidate for Belgrade Mayor, Božović leadership of the Progressive Party. from being in the prime minister's being held accountable. biggest party in the country, who actu- cause at the moment the temptation to records of which party people support vote is still a year away, unofficial cam- vented the police from responding to the decisions. You have to respect this," refused to be drawn. But despite this, he will remain the place," Ivosević suggested. "Some [prime ministerial] decisions ally led the country in contravention of concentrate power is too great. and that they are "buying votes and the paigning is already well under way. the calls of those people who were tied he said. He says that the Democrats will field a most powerful figure in the party, Before Nikolić, who became presi- can provoke a reaction from people, the constitution," said Radosavljević. He said that the outgoing president, institutions are not responding". Božović says he believes the city elec- up, someone gave the order for it and team of candidates for the city elections Ivosević insisted. dent in 2012, Democrat Tadić led Serbia sometimes even mass clashes. On the "In that way he imposes his solutions Tomislav Nikolić, made a mistake by As BIRN previously reported, prior to tions will be marred by underhand tac- someone found that the interests of FUTURE MAYOR? "who know Belgrade, who will really "I think he will keep the power any- for two terms. other hand, the president's position is for the government and for the PM, but stepping down as party chief – "and in the election, watchdogs reported that tics and that the Progressives are intent individual businessmen were more im- work to achieve goals, who are willing to way through his party, even if the con- Tadić is still remembered as a person undemanding, easier, and it is like po- he is protected from public criticism, the end, he lost his influence over [the lists of "safe votes" were being compiled on staying in power in Belgrade "at any portant than the law." Božović described the minister's re- fight for our city, to work for it and who stitution formally says the party can't who enjoyed power, but in his first term, litical watchtower from where you can from the opposition, NGOs … in case of party]". by Vučić's Serbian Progressive Party. cost". The Serbian prosecution is yet to con- fusal to respond to the criticism and al- love Belgrade". Cases were reported of civil servants Božović says he will continue to call duct a preliminary investigation into leged tampering with evidence as "un- "I will be on that team, it will be my and even some workers in private com- for a full investigation into the overnight the incident. Interior Minister Nebojša believable and scandalous". great honour, but for me personally, panies that cooperate with the state be- demolition last year of some buildings Stefanović said in March that the pros- By contrast, he says his party will what position I will be in is least impor- ing made to support Vučić rallies or give in the Savamala district of Belgrade. ecution will complete the investigation support open government "instead of tant. It would be foolish to be otherwise". financial support. Masked men pulled down buildings to and that it will be "properly done". private deals… [and] fraudulent invest- Before the Progressives appointed Published by Ahead of the elections, Vučić has de- make way for the controversial Water- Božović criticised Stefanović this ments that cost us millions of euros". Siniša Mali as Mayor of Belgrade in 2014, nied the various accusations of election front development project, with pro- week for his handling of the suspension "We will prevent the construction of the Democrats, with their Mayor Dragan irregularities, in turn accusing his oppo- testers claiming they were unlawfully of a police officer accused of using -ex the harmful and overpriced Belgrade Đilas, held the helm of the city since 2008. nents of trying to divert public attention restrained and tied up while trying to cessive force during the November 2016 Waterfront project. We will seek crimi- Đilas spent his mandate pounding away from their own fraud. prevent the demolition work. arrest of Nemanja Jovanović, the son of nal liability for those who signed the the streets, pressing flesh, opening kin- "When you have a candidate who has After wearing a 'phantom' mask to a former commander of the Special Op- deal, and all other jobs from which a dergartens, schools, roads, ring roads, A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO invested 10 million euros in the cam- a Belgrade Assembly debate on April erations Unit, JSO, Zvezdan Jovanović, small group of people close to the top of tunnels and highways. He was also NEWS AND ANALYSIS OUR PREMIUM paign, how will he justify that [he won 20th – in reference to the Savamala who was jailed for the 2003 murder of the Progressive party benefited, which widely blamed for taking media out- CONTENT only] 6 per cent of the votes? ... there- demolitions – Božović was prevented the then prime minister, Zoran Đinđić. are financed by citizens with their re- lets under control through his PR and IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE fore, from very start they have been from speaking during the session by Jovanović claims the officer used duced salaries and pensions," he says. media-buying agencies. for in-depth analysis, talking about [vote] stealing," Vučić said the speaker of the assembly, Nikola excessive force while arresting him af- Božović also told BIRN he sees the Opponents from the civil rights camp investigative reports, on March 30th. Nikodijević. Božović says he has raised ter he refused to present his identity former Ombudsman and presidential criticised his handling of the city's mar- features, interviews, On April 2nd, Vučić won the presiden- the issue at every city assembly session documents. The officer was suspended election runner-up Saša Janković as ginalised Roma and his decision to dis- commentary and profiles tial election with a clear majority. Serbs for the past year, and will continue to do but Božović published interior minis- a potential partner. Janković has an- tance himself from the 2009 Belgrade on the latest business and th political headlines. opposed to Vučić's win held daily pro- so. try documents on May 9 that he says nounced he will form his own political Gay Pride march, while the opposition tests in the capital and other major cit- "For one year in the Belgrade City As- show false evidence was planted to sup- party and the Democrats have said they often accused his city government of ies for one month after the vote. sembly, I have insisted on talking about port Jovanović's claim. are considering cooperation if their pol- corruption. Božović believes that free speech, the responsibility of top officials [for The ministry has denied the claim. icies align. Although Đilas won the mayoral th OTHER SERVICES: transparency and clean election cam- the demolitions] in every session. For At a press conference on May 11 , As to working with Vuk Jeremić, an- contest in 2012 against the Progressive paigning within the local government the past year, in the [national] Serbian Stefanović defended his stance on the other presidential election runner-up Party candidate Aleksandar Vučić, the – including at city level in the capital – is parliament, I have been asking for the case and his refusal to comment on and former Democrat Party member, Progressives ousted him a year-and-a- in a worse state. creation of a [parliamentary] commit- the prosecution's investigation, stress- Božović sees no room for cooperation. half later. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 19 - Thursday, June 01, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 19 - Thursday, June 01, 2017 5 SERBIA BELGRADE

COMMENT Serbia's paradoxical Mikser's migrations Belgrade's hub cording to Mikser, Miksalište and its 1,500 volunteers, who arrived from some 60 different countries, helped for creatives, 200,000 refugees to date. The location obsession with history of Miksalište in Savamala was especial- Mikser House, ly important, as it was the first point of by NATO in 1999. To illustrate how inap- may have closed contact with the city for refugees arriv- Although propriate and ill-conceived this idea is, I ing at Belgrade's main terminal. When can only draw an analogy by suggesting the first Miksalište was demolished to that the parts of the Pentagon that were its doors in make way for the Belgrade Waterfront Serbians are destroyed in 9/11 should be replaced by building site, a new space was rapidly a monument to the Mayflower settlers April, but the opened in Gavrila Principa. fond of history, in the US. tIt was Miksalište's continued exist- Generalštab, designed by Nikola institution's ence that contributed to their move our neglect of Dobrović, and inspired by the gorge of from Savamala, according to the the Neretva river, is a protected architec- ambition is not group. They decided to close Mik- cultural heritage tural monument of great value. Moreo- ser House after refusing to accept the ver it holds a great symbolic value for waning. landlord's demands for higher rent reveals major Serbia given that it evokes both the soar- and the closure of their refugee aid ing ambition of socialist Yugoslavia as operations on Gavrila Principa street. contradictions in well as Serbia's downfall in the Milošević Srđan GARČEVIĆ "Mikser House is not walls or stages era. On the other hand, Stefan Nemanja, but a concept, and it will be reincar- our relationship the founder of the medieval Nemanjić he capital's cultural scene nated in some new, better place," the dynasty under which medieval Serbia suffered a heavy blow statement concluded optimistically. to it. reached its zenith, is certainly a figure when Mikser House, worthy of a monument at a more appro- a creative space that MIKSER HOUSE priate location, given that he had noth- became the hub of the IN SARAJEVO ing to do with the Yugoslav National Trapidly gentrifying Savamala district Army. and a preferred meeting place of Bel- One of those new places will be in Generalštab is only the tip of the ice- grade's creatives, closed its doors to Sarajevo, in a disused 19th century berg. There is plan to install a cable car the public on April 27th. However, Mik- industrial complex in the Pofalići connecting Belgrade Fortress and New ser aficionados do not consider this neighbourhood. The decision to open Belgrade – a white elephant that would the end of the endeavour. Mikser House abroad came from Mik- spoil an iconic view of the city. Several ser's continued cooperation with like- years ago, our outgoing PM and future MIKSER FESTIVAL minded creatives and organisations president, Aleksandar Vučić, presented in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Sarajevo's a Disneyworld-type medieval develop- The ninth incarnation of Mikser fes- tragic recent history and connection ment in the lower part of Belgrade For- tival, titled "Migrations" in reference to unsettling aspects of Balkan iden- tress, which would devastate a priceless to the institution's own relocation as tity was another motivating factor. archaeological area in the tackiest way well as its support for refugees, is tak- Mikser's goal is typically ambitious: "to possible. ing place where it all began – the aban- reshape Balkan identity towards a bet- What this attitude towards our her- doned Žitomlin granaries in Donji ter and more sustainable society that Srđan GARČEVIĆ itage demonstrates is that Serbia's at- Dorćol, from May 25th-28th. Mikser are future generations would be proud of." titude to history is not actually very also opening a new Mikser House in hen pundits look for reverential. We are, in reality, fond of Sarajevo, in September. But Mikser NEW BELGRADE LOCATION a culprit for instabil- history-based narratives that allow us to seems to be far from done with Bel- SOON TO BE REVEALED ity in the Balkans, feel special or which justify our actions. grade: Plans for a new space in the their fingers often No matter how much and how accurate- capital will be announced during this Mikser House is renowned for being the preferred meeting place of Belgrade's creatives. Photo: Facebook/Mikser House Although Mikser announced in point to history, or ly they borrow from history, these narra- year's festival. January that it found a new space in ratherW the great fondness the people tives just exploit useful historical facts, Mikser festival rose rapidly to be- house in 2012, coincided with the first in more than a million visitors in the graphic designer from the former Yu- the Belgrade industrial zone of Donji here have for it. Visitors to Serbia are but have no use for complexity that any come one of the highlights of Bel- signs of gentrification in the neigh- past five and a half years, and it was goslavia who is also the guest of hon- Dorćol, the plan fell through as the often baffled by Serbians' tendency to real history contains. Whether you want grade's cultural calendar. Every year it bourhood which has since become regularly listed as one of Belgrade's our at this year's festival. building was abruptly marked for explain contemporary actions and at- to use events of past centuries to show mixed music, art and design, with the Belgrade's equivalent of Williamsburg top spots by global media, including sale. News about Mikser's future in its titudes by referencing events that hap- that Serbia is a perpetual hapless vic- aim of promoting regional creative in- or Shoreditch. It will be further devel- the Guardian and CNN, as well as a HUMANITARIAN CENTRE hometown will be disclosed during pened several centuries ago. tim of foreign scheming, or that it is an dustries. oped as part of the Belgrade Water- great example of redeveloped indus- "MIKSALIŠTE" the festival. For example, it is not uncommon for innately anti-modern aggressive state, Ever since the festival sprouted front project. trial spaces. Despite ongoing troubles, the Mik- somebody to explain Serbia's awkward you are sure to find useful evidence in from among the massive concrete Mikser House, located in an old ga- Part of Mikser's success lay in man- With time, Mikser's goals expanded ser team seem undeterred in their teetering between East and the West our turbulent history, but you will have granaries on the banks of the Danube rage, accelerated Savamala's rise by aging to mobilise high quality region- beyond urban renewal. When the goal to develop what they call an im- by going all the way back to 4th century to neglect all the twists, turns and nu- in 2009, Mikser had the goal of trans- hosting over 1,500 events, which in- al, as well as globally-renowned crea- refugee crisis started, Mikser helped age of the "Positive Balkans". That is, to AD when Theodosius split the Roman ance that real history contains and prob- forming Belgrade's neglected, indus- cluded concerts, craft food markets, tives, from Marina Abramović, the organise a humanitarian centre called showcase the side of the Balkans that Empire along the Drina River. Similarly, ably a lot of wisdom it imparts. trial spaces. The moving of the festival art exhibitions and theatre perfor- world-renowned performance artist, Miksalište, to provide support to the is brimming with creativity, humanity any discussion of Kosovo will quickly go Real respect for cultural heritage and to Savamala and opening of Mikser mances. By Mikser's estimates it drew to Mirko Ilić, the most successful living refugees passing through Serbia. Ac- and optimism. back to 1389 when Battle of Kosovo and history, on the other hand, requires th the death of Prince Lazar signalled the The current state of the 19 century ballroom at the Royal Palace of the Obrenović Dynasty in Aranđelovac. Photo: Srđan Garčević willingness to explore the particular decline of Serbia's medieval state. stroyed. It is a common to see Belgrade's da, one of the most famous Yugoslav and ability to see value and genius in This quirk is often seen as an expres- Recently, the historic buildings defaced by graffiti, painters who even beat Picasso and Dali those who bequeathed a certain build- sion of deep historical knowledge and often carrying nationalist slogans such at São Paulo Art Biennial in 1953, is to be ing or work of art, no matter how differ- the pride Serbs place in knowing their attempt to restore as the ever present "Kosovo is Serbia". removed to make way for a clock in a ent and distant they are. It also requires national history. Some argue that this Unfortunately, many businessmen woeful attempt to "modernise" the great diligence, responsibility and knowledge, obsession with history is what keeps one of Belgrade's who have risen in during the transition hall of Dom Sindikata. This is a historic all of which are rather scarce among Ser- Serbia back from dealing with slightly oldest districts, relieved Belgrade of its historic cultural venue which hosted some of the big- bia's elite. more pressing issues of the present, or institutions. gest cultural events in Belgrade over the Finally, protection of heritage requires even the future. The habit of ours seems Kosančićev After a botched privatisation, Bel- course of its long history. openness as it can expose flaws in the to go way back. Đura Jakšić, a 19th centu- grade lost almost all of its old cinemas, Even current government attempts current system or national narrative. ry poet and painter, explained that he al- Venac, ended up many of which, like Balkan, Zvezda and to honour our history tend to end up For example, Dom Sindikata, a building ways sat facing backwards when driven Kozara have histories stretching back to causing more harm than good. Most of dedicated to workers and decorated in a coach by saying "When did you see leaving the leafy the early 20th century and the beginning the problem is that the restoration of with world-renowned art, provides an a Serb looking forward or towards the of cinema in Belgrade. The famous café, heritage buildings and quarters ends uncomfortable contrast with the cur- future?" quarter looking "Ruski Car", has been closed for sev- up shoddy or blows deadlines. Recently, rent practice of reducing workers' rights However, this love of history lies in eral years after a brief stint as a soulless the attempt to restore one of Belgrade's and cheapening of all public provisions. stark contrast with the often woeful like a war zone for chain restaurant. oldest districts, Kosančićev Venac, end- Serbians are of course not alone in state of cultural and historic heritage several months. The destruction continues, with ed up leaving the leafy quarter looking their preference for narratives over in Serbia. The most obvious case is the tacit approval from the heritage protec- like a war zone for several months. It proper history and heritage: almost all National Museum of Serbia, the largest tion agencies and little notice from the saw almost no progress over the period. nations do it to an extent. However, a and most important collection in the happening a few years ago. Although public. A few meters from "Ruski Car", Unfortunately, often it is the ideas nation so burdened by its past would country. It has been closed for almost most Serbians huff and puff about the Grafički Kolektiv Gallery, which was themselves that are bad, not just the im- greatly benefit from gleaning some wis- fifteen years, since the relatively nation- inability to see their most precious arte- proudly exhibiting the best of local and plementation. A notably irritating exam- dom from history by being more careful alist government of Vojislav Koštunica facts, the popular pressure to open the international graphic art for the almost ple is the current plan to build a monu- in how it preserves or studies it. closed it for refurbishment and future museum remained very weak. seven decades in its unique décor, is set ment honouring Stefan Nemanja at the governments left it shuttered after little Serbians are also quite sanguine to become yet another pancake shop. A site of Generalštab, the old Yugoslav Srđan Garčević is a writer and a progress was made. Things only started when their heritage is casually de- massive public artwork by Petar Lubar- army headquarters that were bombed founder of The Nutshell Times blog. 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 19 - Thursday, June 01, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 19 - Thursday, June 01, 2017 7 BUSINESS BUSINESS Drop in electricity production may stifle economic growth The decline in electricity production in early 2017 will likely impact economic growth, according to experts who warn that the state energy company is in urgent need of reform.

Stevan VELJOVIĆ

he government's predicted eco- nomic growth rate of three per cent for 2017 has already been called into question, due to an unexpect- ed drop in electricity production. Electricity production dropped byT 14.5 per cent in the first quarter of the year, with the sharpest decline in production – 22.9 per cent – recorded in March, according to the state Office of Statistics. They recorded a meagre one per cent growth of the Serbian economy, expressed as GDP, in the first quarter of 2017. By comparison, throughout 2016 the GDP never dipped below two per cent, which indicates this year's growth rate might be lower than projected. The production and distribution of energy is one of the key components of industrial produc- tion, along with agriculture, manufacturing, mining and other sectors, all contribute significantly to the country's overall economic growth rate. rd Lower economic growth has been attributed to Energy Minister Aleksandar Antić told Tanjug news agency on May 3 , that EPS will invest 250 million euros in Kolubara. Photo: Beta RB Kolubara is a Serbian coalmining and smelting complex with headquarters in Lazarevac, Kolubara District. Photo: Beta the negative impact of lower electricity production. However, a variety of factors could be responsible. chance that the rate would even exceed the target," Nearly 70 per cent of energy in Serbia is pro- tion increased by 6.3, in Poland by 3.6 per cent, in problem there were flaws in planning, organisa- In 2015 alone, the debt rose by 250 million euros, from all the industrial companies based in Serbia in the price of electricity for households in Serbia was Consumers have not yet been affected by either by Arsić explained. duced in thermal power plants from coal pro- Croatia 3.3 per cent, Bosnia and Herzegovina 1.4 tion and lack of competence", he added. including both short-term and long-term loans. Even the coming years, both EPS and private sector energy the third lowest in Europe after Ukraine and Kosovo. power outages or rising prices. Arsić said that activity in the energy sector duced in domestic mines. According to the Office per cent, while production in Serbia dropped 14.5 Ćulibrk notes that in the first quarter of 2017, EPS though most loans were earmarked for investments, firms should increase their capacities to assure great- After two price hikes within the last two years, the While acknowledging that overall economic should be monitored more closely again in the of Statistics, the production of coal decreased 19.4 percent. This means that very cold weather does produced 1.5 billion kilowatt hours less electricity the size of the debt requires the government closely er electricity production. government announced that another increase is not growth will also be determined by how well agricul- winter months, as electricity production in the last per cent in the first quarter of 2017. not affect the decline in production of electricity," compared with the same period of 2016. monitors its activities in order to avoid a spillover of Investment in coal production is just one part of planned for the next three years, provided that finan- ture and other industrial sectors perform, experts quarter of the year is usually higher than during the "The intention is to achieve annual coal produc- Arsić wrote in an article for the daily Politika on "In the event that this electricity was produced its liabilities on the state budget. the investment needs of EPS. Some of the oldest ther- cial consolidation and the restructuring of EPS are are warning that the drop in electricity production summer and spring months. tion in Kolubara of over 28 million tonnes, which May 13th. and exported, EPS revenues would increase by 75 Tony Verheijen, the World Bank Country Man- mal power plants should be closed in the coming implemented as planned. will negatively impact GDP. Aleksandar Vučić, the Serbian prime minister would mean reaching the 2016 level of produc- Arsić said that the real reason for the drop in million euros, but in reality, imports are increas- ager for Serbia described EPS in July 2016 as a "time years to comply with EU regulations, which requires "The price must be higher if [we] want to keep the Milojko Arsić, an economics professor at Bel- and president-elect of Serbia, during a visit to the tion," Vučić said. electricity production was reduced coal supply, ing," he added. bomb" for the Serbian economy, whose employees a degree of restructuring – especially new thermal energy system in the same shape for the next genera- grade University, told BIRN that the decline in elec- Kolubara mining basin on May 1st, blamed the prob- He also said that in the next three quarters the which he said was a result of errors in planning had the biggest salaries in the country, while provid- power plants bearing higher environmental stand- tions as the one we inherited," Ružić argued. tricity production could see the 2017 GDP growth lems with electricity production on the "coldest GDP growth rate in each quarter should be 3.7 per and excavation of coal that caused landslides. REINVESTING THE PROFIT ing an "average service". ards – to replace them. "The EPS management should be the first to fight rate, containing growth rates in all four quarters of January since 1964, as well as some landslides that cent if annual GDP is to reach three per cent. Slobodan Ružić, an energy expert and manager Although EPS recorded some profit in the last few Ružić from the Energy Saving Group consultancy for the vocation and for the company. They can't say the year, drop by between 0.2 and 0.3 per cent. occurred at the mine". The Kolubara basin produces about 75 per cent at the Energy Saving Group consultancy, blamed Ćulibrk insisted that problems within EPS will not years, the company is still burdened with long-term insists, however, that cutting the workforce alone will they are profitable and they don't need higher prices." "It is still possible that the economic growth rate He announced 250 million euros will be invested of lignite coal in Serbia and supplies the Nikola the reduced coal supply on a technical mistake be resolved in the short term, underlining that waste problems, such as a huge wage bill, a low level of debt not create enough resources for investment and that However, Ružić also believes that EPS is not solely at the end of the year will be three per cent, but in Kolubara, in order to increase both electricity Tesla thermal power plant, as well as two other in the extraction process which caused the land- removal, which is important in coal mining, in 2014, collection from consumers, the low price of electrici- the price of electricity needs to be increased too in or- to blame because, for many years, he says populist before the first quarter of 2017, there was a good and coal production. power plants: Kolubara and Morava. All three are slide, something he said should not be allowed to 2015, and 2016 was 20 per cent less than in the three ty, power losses, inadequate investment and increas- der to have sufficient resources for investments. politicians defending low prices had prevailed over managed by Serbia's state-owned power utility happen. years before. ing indebtedness. According to Eurostat, in the second half of 2016, the long term interests of society. company, EPS. "There was no natural disaster that would cause "In 2014 there were floods, but this doesn't explain Regarding the recent problems in production, However, experts have questioned the govern- the landslide," he told BIRN, adding that mistakes lower production in the two years after the floods", he commentators stressed one issue that the Fiscal ment's claims that the drop in electricity produc- like this create uncertainty about the operation of added. Council mentioned long ago – that EPS allocates f e s t i v a l s a v r e m e n o g tion is a result of a cold winter and instead blame the entire energy system. Energy Minister Aleksandar Antić told Tanjug more money for amortization (payments to replace f i l m a n a š pa n s ko m j e z i k u mismanagement and a decline in coal production Politika reported, citing sources from EPS, that news agency on May 3rd, that EPS will invest 31 billion equipment that loses value during excavation) than 21. MAJ – 01. JUN 2017. | BEOGRAD that left power plants with less raw material. the state-owned utility imported 848 million kilo- dinars [250 million euros] in Kolubara to fund the for investment. watt hours in the first three months of 2017 at a maintenance of equipment and the opening of three Ćulibrk warned that EPS, in the long term, doesn't 'FLAWS IN PLANNING' cost of 42 million euros. new mines. have a viable future if the company continues to op- "Now we have to import electricity at the wrong Antić said that all investment in Kolubara will be erate in the same way as it does today. Responding to opposition party critics in par- moment. I can't remember the last time when provided from EPS operations, reminding that the "The key reform is the professionalization of the liament, Dušan Vujović, Serbia's finance minister, electricity had to be imported due to low coal company has 447 million euros (55 billion RSD) in its management structure. No doubt EPS has good engi- said on May 12th that there were several reasons for production,"Ružić said. account. neers, they managed to keep the system [going] even the drop in electricity production but insisted that "This should be considered as a warning that "We will already have the first mining activities in during the NATO bombing [of the former Yugoslavia unfavourable weather conditions had an impact. bypassing the opinions of EPS professionals and the new fields, E and G, in 2017… in 2018 we will set in 1999],"Ćulibrk argued. "The drop in electricity production did not oc- engineers could have serious consequences." the first system in the Radljevo field, which is the larg- He is also surprised that the government insisted Facial teatments cur because someone wanted this. The drop oc- BIRN asked EPS to comment on the reasons est and most significant mine," Antić said, before re- EPS pay into the state budget. curred for variety of reasons, including bad weath- behind falling production, expectations for pro- minding the public that half the country's electricity "EPS had to pay part of its profit into the budget, Anti age teatments er conditions. I hope this will be compensated for duction by year-end and the cost of imported is produced from Kolubara coal. while the government is announcing new invest- quickly, as this kind of decline in production is nei- electricity, but did not get a reply before going to However, EPS operations have long been under ment", he added. Massage and Spa Body treatments ther normal nor sustainable", Vujović was quoted print. scrutiny of domestic experts, such as the independ- Arsić argued that a company whose investments Manicure and Pedicure as saying by Beta news agency. Milan Ćulibrk, an economics analyst and editor ent Fiscal Council, as well as international organisa- were below the level necessary for amortization, However, experts note that the decline in coal of the NIN weekly magazine, said that electricity tions, including the International Monetary Fund should not have paid dividends to the state budget. production began in November, two months be- production was lower in March than in January – and the World Bank. "There was perhaps some reason to ask for the fore the freezing temperatures of January. when temperatures were much colder – which he According to an analysis by the Fiscal Council en- dividend from EPS when the government first in- POČASNE GOJA SAVREMENI IMAGINARNA NAGRADE FILM GEOGRAFIJA They also underscore the fact that other region- says suggests that weather can't be the reason for titled Fiscal developments in 2016, consolidation and troduced austerity measures, but last year this was BEAUTY SALON ON VRACAR IN THE HEART OF BELGRADE 21-24. maj 2017. 26. maj - 01. jun 2017. 25-28. maj 2017. JUGOSLOVENSKA KULTURNI CENTAR MIKSER FESTIVAL KINOTEKA BEOGRADA ŽITOMLIN al countries also experiencing low temperatures problems in mining. reforms 2016-2020 and published in June 2016, EPS's completely unjustified and this year it should refrain Uzun Mirkova 1, Kolarčeva 6, Dunavski Kej 46, Beograd Beograd Beograd WWW.SPANSKIMETAR.RS Kneginje Zorke 96, Tel/011 308 7824; 060 0700868 did not see lower electricity production rates. "Along with the fact that Serbia is the only coun- debts rose from 577 million euros in 2008 to 1.15 bil- from doing the same," he said. www.esteticmoments.rs "In the Czech Republic, electricity produc- try that has this decline, [this] suggests that the lion euros in 2015. He added that in order to satisfy the demands 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 19 - Thursday, June 01, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 19 - Thursday, June 01, 2017 9 REGION FACES

COMMENT Tacit Thaci-Vučić 'alliance' Belgrade again outsmarts the West Raw strips

Moreover, the success of the Dialogue As the leaders has become increasingly doubtful. After city to bare the speedy start of the April Agreement of both Kosovo in 2013, this year will mark the fourth year of delay of full implementation. At and Serbia the same time, the integration of a hand- ful of institutions in the north of Kosovo bones game the West into the Kosovo state is minimal in com- The Belgrade Raw collective capture images representing daily life in Belgrade in the simplest way possible. parison to the roughly 300 Serbian state - by feigning a institutions that still remain there. The speech of Serbia's political lead- ers in 2013, conceding Kosovo had been commitment lost, has since shifted back to a narra- tive about the allegedly "status neutral" to the EU character of the Dialogue and to the January 2017 threat of taking back Ko- Dialogue that sovo by arms. The Dialogue destroyed the one Ser- neither intends bian party in Kosovo that was loyal to the Republic of Kosovo, and has created to honour – it is a Serb one-party system loyal to Bel- grade, Srpska lista, which is deeply en- time the West trenched in Kosovo's state institutions. Meanwhile, Belgrade's manipulation came up with a of Kosovo for domestic purposes gives the ruling elites in Priština a welcome master plan. excuse not to engage with the Serbs in the north, and thus not to treat them as citizens of Kosovo. Bodo WEBER The West's policy of trading democra- cy for the Dialogue has meant less pro- n May 10th, the ruling gress in the Dialogue – with complete Democratic Party of failure a real option. It reveals that West- Kosovo, PDK, led by ern policy is dominated by a tactical ap- President Hashim proach that lacks a long-term strategy. Thaci, terminated its Last year, EU officials in background unloved coalition with conversations complained about the Othe Democratic League of Kosovo, LDK, lack of a master plan, and how this was using the opposition's no-confidence undermining their work and the suc- vote against the government led by the cess of the Dialogue. LDK leader, Isa Mustafa, to accomplish A master plan exists – one that covers that. The vote set the stage for early elec- the technical and procedural aspects of tions to be held before the summer break. the Dialogue endeavour. But the calculations behind the PDK's It was drafted in 2014 by the EU's Di- move to seek voters' support at this rectorate-General for Neighbourhood time remain hidden from the public. and Enlargement Negotiations and was Analysts point to the Special Court's premised on the EU's accession nego- upcoming publication of its first in- tiation framework, which in a key pro- dictments whose primary targets are vision prescribes that Kosovo will ef- expected to include a number of top fectively be severed from Serbia's state officials from the PDK. They insist that Thaci's and Vučić's tacit alliances have endlessly postponed implementation of the April Agreement. Photos: Beta territory through the first 34 accession Thaci's recent unsuccessful push for a "negotiation" chapters. Luka Knežević Strika. Photos: Courtesy of Belgrade Raw Kosovo army was aimed at weakening words "Kosovo is Serbia", raising ten- declared commitment to the Dialogue Rather, the failure to secure complete The EU has conveniently allowed the LDK ahead of early elections. sions again, and Serbian Prime Minister and to the implementation of the April national sovereignty and territorial in- Belgrade to conceal this fact from the Whatever the rationale, snap elec- Aleksandar Vučić's raising nationalist Agreement. Both draw domestic legiti- tegrity has become the raison d`etre Serbian public. But what is lacking is showcasing the beauty of tourist hot- plest way possible. Through expand- more success than we were thinking collective vision of photography, and tions will affect the EU-led dialogue with tensions for domestic consumption macy and authority from this partner- for the rule of ethnic nationalist politi- a political, overarching master plan. One Serbian spots circulated widely, there was a ing their online presence, they also we would get," said Strika. therefore their way of working. Over Serbia on normalisation of relations that brought the Dialogue to an all-time ship with the West. cal elites; a permanent external threat Without that, the EU and US risk the sad lack of images showing a different sourced new members for the collec- Most of the members were not the past few years, they have been ap- that was launched in 2011, three years low, in turn encouraging Thaci's army In return, the West grants conces- and state of emergency legitimizes their continuation of political damage that photographers' side of life. tive from several photography groups, originally photographers. The group proaching new topics and exploring after Kosovo declared independence maneuver. sions to them both regarding the evi- non-democratic, corrupt rule. is happening in Kosovo and Serbia and "We identified this hole that needed which led them to grow into a team of includes designers, visual artists and these changes, using these evolutions from Serbia, which Belgrade has not The reaction of EU and US officials dent lack of democracy and the rule of The raising of nationalist tensions to the likelihood of complete failure of the collective is chal- to be filled, and that's what we did. eleven photographers – professionals developers. as a new tool. recognized. to Kosovo's early elections was predict- law in their respective countries. just under the level of violence in Serbia Dialogue. Many people wanted to see it filled, and amateurs. "We are all involved in Belgrade Two years ago, for example, they A change in government in Kosovo, able and followed a well-established The benign reactions of the EU and and the character of elections in both Ser- To avoid such a dangerous scenario, lenging tradition- even if they didn't especially think of it "Our way to work consists of taking Raw, but we have also individual pro- organized an exhibition at the U10 Art even if coalition building proceeds un- pattern. Though unhappy with the US to Serbia have strengthened Vučić's bia and Kosovo represent a milder form the government that emerges from the as a hole," said Strika. photographs during our daily lives in jects. We communicate about them Gallery in Belgrade, and used citizens expectedly smoothly, combined with disruptive effects that early elections authoritarian grip on power. In Kosovo, of what was at play during the 1990s. September parliamentary elections in al depictions of Partial inspiration came in 2008 Belgrade to show the city as we think and offer support in terms of critics or as performers. One of the installations Serbia's presidential elections held would trigger, the EU and US neverthe- key Western actors in 2014 assisted the The results of Priština's and Belgrade's Germany will need to urgently revital- when Christopher Anderson made a it is, nothing more. It's not about find- ideas for each other," said Strika. was the live streaming of pictures earlier this spring - and Germany's par- less proved ultimately incapable of con- PDK in maintaining power by prevent- tacit cooperation are increasingly dev- ize the Dialogue by confirming its lead- the city. photo documentary about Belgrade ing some photogenic places and going For Strika, the collectivisation of art from Instagram taken by random peo- liamentary elections this autumn - is al- vincing Kosovo's political leaders to ab- ing the opposition majority in parlia- astating – on the home front and in the ing role. for National Geographic. Strika said it there," said Strika. is the best way to respond to a rap- ple in Belgrade with a special hash tag most certain to lead to de facto suspen- stain from their domestic maneuvering. ment from forming a government. Dialogue, however. Berlin must prepare a strategic mas- was "a preposterous way to show Ser- Their simple vision of photography idly evolving art scene. That's why or location. First, people were quite sion of the Dialogue for the remainder In their failure, they shifted into fatal- At the same time, Thaci's and Vučić's In Serbia, Vučić has established an ter plan for the Dialogue. It must be- Mathilde DE KERCHOVE bia, way more [messed] up than it re- led them into a small niche within the their collection of images of Belgrade, surprised by the new concept, and of 2017 – the fourth year lost since the ism, under the cover of a thinly veiled, tacit alliances have endlessly post- autocratic system. Progress made earli- gin with defining the endpoint to be ally was". From that moment, the start- photographic scene in Serbia. Accord- which contains almost 1,300 photo- used this more as a joke, trolling the signing of the April 2013 Agreement. pseudo-democratic argument that poned implementation of the April er in establishing democracy, the rule of achieved – mutual recognition of Kos- elgrade Raw is a collective ing team decided they were going to ing to Strika, the Serbian photography graphs, is considered as the essence of live stream with some absurd selfies. In 2014, it was the combination of opposing early elections would have Agreement – originally planned to be law and freedom of the media is stead- ovo and Serbia before EU membership, of eleven photographers fill the gap in Belgrade's documentary sector is really focused on technological their work, beside all the workshops, After a few days, the project grew Serbian and Kosovo parliamentary constituted external interference in Ko- completed at the end of 2013 – thereby ily being rolled back. There is no serious Kosovo's membership of all relevant with one shared mission: scene and snap honest yet raw images acumen, while the Belgrade Raw collec- exhibitions and installations in the more successful, and the live stream- elections, followed by a six-month crisis sovo's domestic affairs. helping to maintain their special rela- domestic political opposition to these international institutions, and the full To explore Belgrade and of city life. tive is more concerned about what it is city and abroad. ing started to become increasingly over the formation of a coalition gov- But the frequency of parallel elec- tionships with the West for as long as developments. integration of northern Kosovo into Ko- present it to the public in The project quickly gained media showed, rather than the technique. Indeed, the collective is well aware interesting. ernment in Kosovo that suspended the tions in Kosovo and Serbia – with at possible. Kosovo is not a functioning democ- sovo – and then it must describe each Ba uniquely gritty way. One member, recognition and notoriety on the con- The group does not focus on photo of the constant fluctuations in the pho- While the issue of budget was one Dialogue until early 2015. least one of the two always holding a The tacit nature of this Priština- racy either, and does not adhere to the step that must be taken to achieve it. Luka Knežević Strika, simply defines temporary art scene. Thanks to the editing or specialised equipment and tography sector. of the reasons the collective didn't In 2016, it was the combination of snap election – demonstrates the inter- Belgrade alliance owes its existence to rule of law. Government formation in Such a strategic approach would end its main goal as being to present a gen- great expansion of the internet be- prefers to show the most natural vi- "Photography has changed, it has make a classic exhibition with printed early elections once again in Serbia and relationship between Western and do- the real character of ethnic nationalism 2014 there not only subverted core the failed policy of trading democracy uine and direct documentary depic- tween 2009 and 2011, the group man- sion of their city, using the most acces- become something normal for every- pictures, its members also wanted to the domestic political conflict over Ko- mestic policy. as revealed during the Balkan wars of democratic principles but further an- for the Dialogue. tion of Belgrade. aged to launch the website Belgrade sible tools. one," said Strika. show the people they are aware of the sovo's parliament voting Thaci into the They point to a tacit, hidden alliance the 1990s. tagonized the ruling and opposition In 2009, Knežević Strika and five Raw, which that roused more interna- "Most of us are using different film "Now it's being used in a very natu- current situation of photography in presidential office that virtually para- in the Dialogue between Priština and The essence of ethnic nationalism parties to the extent that the work of Bodo Weber is a Senior Associate other members of the current team tional interest. cameras, including these automatic ral way by people who don't even our society where instantaneity is at lyzed the Dialogue. Belgrade aimed at gaming the system. does not lie in the publicly declared aim both government and parliament is of the Democratization Policy Council noticed that there was something The group's main product consists camera, doing everything, except consider them as photographers, al- the centre of everything. The year 2017 began with Serbia Both Thaci and Vučić remain the of solving the "national question", or the paralyzed, blocking the country's EU in- (www.democratizationpolicy.org), based missing on the city's photo documen- of a collection of images represent- framing, which is the important thing though they are." To see more about Belgrade Raw's sending a train to Kosovo covered in West's main partners thanks to their nationalist narrative taken at face value. tegration process. in Berlin. tary scene. While plenty of images ing daily life in Belgrade in the sim- in the end. And this somehow gave us This phenomenon has changed the work: www.belgraderaw.com 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 19 - Thursday, June 01, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 19 - Thursday, June 01, 2017 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT

Wishful drinking - wine list reviews Corner Wine

It always begins with a simple question: 'Can you bring me the wine list'? Everything else that follows is a complex matter, and cannot be measured only by how much is left in the bottle after dinner.

Pavle GOLICIN

his used to be one of the places where I spent many evenings in the Tdawn of the new Millen- nium. Throughout that time, res- The overall atmosphere at Endorfin is pleasant and casual. Photo:Facebook/Endorfin taurants replaced one another but memories remained. Back when this place was called the Sinatra Bar, one of my best friends held his wedding here - those moments I will always remember. Last week, I realised that the Promising start for place is now a new restaurant/ bar called Endorfin, which has just opened under new manage- ment. So, I had no doubts about downtown Endorfin bar immediately checking it out. I came even earlier for lunch, just to The Drina regatta is one of the most popular events during the summer months in western Serbia. Photo: Flickr/Trip & Travel Blog have enough time to go back down Purists would say it was done just as it memory lane, and to lose some Rumours of a new should be. time, sip by sip, before my friends Fresh carrot pieces adorned in lem- joined me for a meal at the agreed dining spot in on juice and coarse salt, served with a time. blue cheese dip was a fun alternative to I must admit I was unpleasantly town brought us to surprised that the wine list doesn't a salad and a great companion both to exist at Endorfin. There are only the ribs and the burger. Sandy, sunny and local three local wines available by the Endorfin bar and Chia pudding with almond milk, glass, with one additional label topped with seasonal fruits (strawber- available by the bottle, slim pick- restaurant during ries, apples and dried cranberries) with ings by any standard. I sincerely there are organised shuttle boats that can find as many as eight beaches on once belonged to a Turkish feudal While there are many lakes in the mint leaves found on the breakfast Who says you hope there will be a broader choice its opening week. leave from the marinas in Višnjica and the riverbanks of the Rzav. Žuta Stena owner in the area. area, one in particular is known for in the future. menu doubled as a dessert, the only must cross the Pančevo during the summer months. (Yellow Rock), Zelena Plaza (Green However, while beautiful, the Drina its clean and beautiful green water: That said, Endorfin is not really one available. It was nice and gooey What makes Bela Stena special is Beach), Bosa Noga (Bare Foot) and Ur- is not quite as good for swimming or Bešenovo lake, located in the Sremska about the wine as craft beer is the Duda&Vlada (a sign of properly soaked chia), re- border to enjoy the long sandy beaches that are both jak are some of the beaches located bathing, as it is comparatively quite Mitrovića municipality. Its water alleg- name of the game here. Endorfin is freshing yet dense, and easily enough clean and tidy, in contrast to some of just three kilometres from the centre cold and the tough streams can be edly has healing properties because of part of a new wave of bars offering ndorfin, at the corner of for three. One would fully appreciate the more frequently visited river is- of Arilje. somewhat unpleasant. Bajina Bašta is its high mineral content. 2G (garage and gourmet) beer, both Braće Jugovića and Knegin- this dish as an alternative yet energy- sand and sun local and international. The focus is lands in close proximity to Belgrade, The beach resorts here will satisfy however, astonishingly beautiful and The lake is also known as Beli Ka- je Ljubice, has just recently packed breakfast. on the local Kabinet brewery from this summer? for example Ada Ciganlija and Lido in even the most demanding of guests during the summer you can enjoy the men (White Stone) because of its white Rudnik mountain near Belgrade, opened its doors to the pub- Endorfin has everything it takes to be Zemun. Because of the green vegeta- in terms of the wide range of bars, res- Drina regatta, which is held every sum- rocks that are reminiscent of the Medi- and the Italian Baladin, one of lic. There are only so many a good craft beer bar: varied beers and tion covering the island, there is also taurants and necessary equipment for mer from July 19th to 23rd. terranean seaside. The area might be the pioneers of craft beers in Italy Epremises in Belgrade with such fantas- other drinks, small plate food, start- Belgrade Insight plenty of shade for cooling off on hot bathing and recreation on offer. This is one of the most popular for the more adventurous as it is a little from the Langhe area in Piedmont, tic assets – location, size, floor-to-ceiling ers, bar food… They are obviously still explores Serbia's summer days. The temperature of the river is 18 – events during the summer months bit "off-piste" and there are no restau- which is best known for its Barolo windows, to name a few. In Yugoslav struggling with the restaurant part of The water at Bela Stena is relatively 24 degrees Celsius during the summer in western Serbia, and the four days rants or similar facilities. However, it is and Barbaresco wines. times it was occupied by a famous the business. A lot can be done to im- I easily skipped the wine offer shallow, which makes it a perfect desti- months. While it is a little cooler than of festivities include a wide variety of the perfect place for camping for those traditional restaurant - Kafana Sme- prove main course dishes, and more so resorts. and had the Supernova by Kabinet. nation for families with small children at the seaside, it is difficult to imagine activities. For more information visit who want to spend one or more nights It is my favourite IPA (India Pale derevo. Since privatisation, which took with the wine selection. We wish them as they can safely enjoy hunting shells a more beautiful place to enjoy your www.taratours.rs. away from civilisation. Despite this, the Ale) from their large list of beers. place in the early 2000s, it has been the Endorfin has everything it takes to be a good craft beer bar. Photo:Facebook/Endorfin smooth times and hope to witness and rocks. However, it's best to be a lit- summer holiday. Not too far from Bajina Bašta lies village of Bešenovo is not too far away. IPA is a hoppy beer style of pale site of some decent tries and mysteri- improvements in those aspects - the tle cautious still, as the Danube stream There is also a campsite at the Žuta Zaovina lake – one of the most beauti- Another destination, which is well ales, developed in the mid-18th Cen- ous failures. The most famous of these Our waiter was young, polite and we The classic beef burger with cheddar, atmosphere and location are already Siri SOLLIE can run very quickly. Stena beach, where one can enjoy ful lakes in Serbia. It is very popular known to locals, but less frequented by tury to provide the British Empire previous incarnations was certainly would dare to say cute, but utterly diso- pickles and barbecue sauce, served there. If you would like to make a weekend sports facilities at the campsite, with among the locals. Located in the Tara foreigners, is Čortanovci on the Dan- in the east with beer, as it was too the Sinatra jazz bar and restaurant, the riented. No wonder since it was his first with rustic potato wedges, was in our hot to brew in India. So, a heavily hile Serbia lacks the out of it, you can find several sum- playgrounds for kids, including slides National Park, the area is known as a ube river, close to Sremski Karlovcima. last business to close at this address day at the job, as he explained. This led humble opinion the only properly Endorfin hopped beer that could survive the widely-renowned merhouses at which you can spend and trampolines. picturesque oasis and it is possible to Čortanovci was a popular river resort journey to India was born. was Fish & Bar. to the inevitable question – when exact- rounded main dish. Un-complicated Address: Braće Jugovića 3 coastlines of Croatia or the night. You will also find a selec- The Zlatibor district is also known rent summer houses nearby. For more during the 1970s and 1980s, and Bel- Supernova smells like a true IPA. Endorfin's interior is yet another at- ly did you open? Last week, came the and precisely made, the burger con- Phone: +381 11 3281701 WMontenegro, there are tion of restaurants at which you can for its caves and hiking trails, as well as information about the accommoda- graders travelled to the area for their It is full of fruits, mostly orange and tempt at the overly popular minimal- answer which took us by surprise. We tained nothing beyond the ingredients Price Guide: 1300-1800 dinars plenty of places to travel to around the enjoy a pleasant meal between all the Visočka Spa, located in close vicinity tion and travel information, visit: www. weekends and holidays. Čortanovci citrus aromas, and some floral too. ist, grey, industrial look, but a decent had haphazardly broken our own rule named, with the mince charred on the [about €11 – €14] per person for three country for sun and an outdoor swim. sunbathing and refreshing dips in the to the beach – a natural spring of hot tara-planina.com/zaovine.htl is popular among fishermen and it The taste offers bitterness, which one at that. The details are all famil- not to visit 'in capacity' before letting a outside, with just a hint of red inside. courses without drinks. water. waters, allegedly with healing proper- is possible to enjoy a fresh and local is exactly what I expect from IPA iar – concrete walls, oak tables, white venue settle into place a bit. beer, but it remains medium and BELA STENA: SANDY ties. THE HIDDEN SECRETS riblja čorba (fish soup) at the local res- 'metro tiles', and simple black wooden Thick creamy ginger-spiced soup only slightly astringent. Very drink- DANUBE BEACHES BEACH LIFE ON THE OF FRUŠKA GORA taurants along the river. The area is able and refreshing, Supernova chairs. The overall atmosphere is pleas- of carrot was a very good start. Beef- ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ RZAV RIVER ALONGSIDE THE characterised by its small and charm- proved to be an excellent compan- ant; casual but the pure minimalistic steak Carpaccio served rolled around ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” Known to most Belgraders, but not BEAUTIFUL DRINA If the Zlatibor district and the Tara ing weekend houses, surrounded by ion to the food we ordered, above approach and greys lend it a touch of marinated zucchini and parmesan, RESTAURANT KOVAČ frequently visited, are the sandy Dan- The natural features surrounding National Park seem too far away from an old forest that was once part of the all to the classic burger. serenity. Large black-framed windows sprinkled with olive oil, red pepper and modern ethno restaurant ube beaches at "Bela Stena" (White the Rzav river provide anyone wishing Once you see the Drina river for the the capital, there are certainly closer Roman Route. Traces of the Roman The mark-up here is at an aver- open to an extent, while a couple of balsamic vinegar was also enjoyable, Rock) near Pančevo, some 10 kilome- to go "off the beaten track" with memo- first time, it is difficult to forget its star- choices for those who want to visit heritage are still visible in the area. age level for Belgrade restaurants grey wooden benches on the street although quite neutral – a trait of both and bars. The service is friendly tres northeast of Belgrade. rable outdoor activities in the wilder- tling beauty and deep green colour. some of the hidden natural gemstones Čortanovci is easily accessible by engage passers-by. This simple design starters and the following mains. with staff ready to help at any time. The island is a hidden pearl located ness. The area, located in the Zlatibor The place most worth visiting along in Serbia. train. The Novi Sad train from Belgrade All in all, Endorfin is a cosy, quiet is probably equally successful for the Caprese Chicken, grilled chicken on the eastern bank of the River Dan- district, close to the towns of Požega, this river is called Bajina Bašta (Garden Fruška Gora is a nature reservoir lo- stops in the middle of the forest (sta- and comfy place where you can nighttime. One whole wall is dedicated breast with mozzarella, tomato and ube, and some might argue that the Arilje and Ivanjica, features deep val- of Bajin), and is also located in the Zlati- cated in Vojvodina region, and you can tion Čortanovci Dunav), and it is just find nice beers, which is a good to the decorative, shiny-happy craft pesto, fell short of expectations… any most beautiful sandy beaches on the leys, ravines and gorges. bor district, but slightly further south, reach the area by car in a mere hour a one-hour train ride from the capital. start by all means. However, in beer bottles. Kabinet brewery - the expectations, one might say. Pork ribs Danube are located here. The island They say that the river is the clean- as it comprises part of Tara National and a half from the capital. Nature here For more information about the area order to match growing competi- most successful small craft brewery in served with zucchini puree and mixed can only by reached by boat, but if est river in Serbia, and it supplies the Park. The name refers to the vast or- is clean and undisturbed, and the area and other gems of Fruška Gora, visit: tion in Belgrade, it needs to expand these parts - is an official partner, as we green salad were enjoyable, although a Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 the wine offer in the future. www.restorankovac.com you don't have access to your own, locals here with drinking water. You chards and vegetable gardens which has a lot to offer its admirers. http://fruskac.net. were about to find out. little dry and under-seasoned. 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 19 - Thursday, June 01, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 19 - Thursday, June 01, 2017 13 WHAT'S ON ARTS

Exhibition OPERA, BALLET celebrates AND CLASSICAL Lubarda's work CLUBBING FRIDAY MAY 19th The Canvas Art Gallery will Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, be hosting the works of Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm one of Yugoslavia's most Ballet: Women in D Minor (Bach)/ AND LIVE MUSIC Arts in brief Long Christmas Dinner (Vivaldi), popular painters, Petar th The National Theatre, Francuska 1, Lubarda, until June 11 to 7:30pm celebrate the late artist's SATURDAY MAY 20th FRIDAY MAY 19th SATURDAY MAY 20th • Shake D Wednesday: RnB, 110th birthday. The exhibi- Shake and Shake, boat on Sava tion will feature 17 of his Opera: Madame Butterfly (Puccini), The National Theatre, Francuska 1, • Veliki prezir, Elektropionir, • GIFT, Elektropionir, Cetinjska river, 11pm works created between 7pm Cetinjska 15, 9pm 15, 10pm • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan Braun, 1949-1958 in various The Clarinotts, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm • Ana Ćurčin, Dom Omladine, • SKVER, Petlja Bar, Bulevar Nemanjina 4, 11pm TRA T T O R I A styles and formats. Makedonska 22, 9pm Vojvode Mišića 11, 9pm MONDAY MAY 22nd • Sink & Random, Dom THURSDAY MAY 25th PIZZER I A German • Neda Ukraden, Sava Centre, From Bach to Bauman - New Omladine, Makedonska 22, photographer Milentija Popovića 9, 8pm Symphony Orchestra "Makris", Ilija 8pm • Vasil Hadžimanov, Vlatko displays the M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski • Giegling avec Ateq and Trg 5, 8pm • Matija Dedić, Sava Centre, Stefanovski, Bobo, Adnan "Future's Past" Dustin, Drugstore, Bulevar Nebojsina 8 Leana Nikolov, violin and Jovan Milentija Popovića 9, 8pm Šaran, Božo Vrećo, Mikser Nikolov, piano, Belgrade Cultural Despota Stefana 115, 11pm 011/3863-999 • Motus Vita Est, Vox populi, House, Karađorđeva 46, 9pm Sven Marquardt is a Centre, Knez Mihailova 6, 8pm • Blender // Fatima Hajji, [email protected] Thimble, Božidarac, Radoslava • Shake the Nineties, Shake and German photographer set TUESDAY MAY 23rd www.restoranamici.rs Barutana, Kalemegdan Fortress, Grujića 3, 8pm Shake boat on Sava river, 11pm to arrive in Belgrade this 11pm Opera: Il Barbiere di Siviglia • Vatra, Drugstore, Bulevar June to participate in an (Rossini), The National Theatre, • Nemanja & Roskie, Freestyler, Despota Stefana 115, 11pm FRIDAY MAY 26th artist residency. He will be Francuska 1, 7:30pm boat on Sava river, 11pm • Blndr triple b2b special, showcasing an exhibi- THURSDAY MAY 25th • Lady Dee, Dooshan and Goran Barutana, Kalemegdan • Avalanche Party, Disciplin tion of his work entitled Fortress, 11pm A Kitschme!, Mikser House, Ballet: The Sleeping Beauty Starčević, Lasta boat on Sava "Future's Past" in KC Grad (Tchaikovsky), The National Theatre, river, 11pm • Mirko and Meex, Freestyler, Karađorđeva 46, 9pm from June 5th-17th which Francuska 1, 7:30pm boat on Sava river, 11pm • Blender // Patrice Bäumel, • Somebody Call the Doctor, will feature photographs FRIDAY MAY 26th Club 94, boat on Sava river, 11pm • Oysha, Peppe and Goran Barutana, Kalemegdan Fortress, that span his three Kemal Gekić, piano, Ilija M. Kolarac • DJ Dooshan, Shake and Shake, Starčević, Lasta boat on Sava 11pm decade-long career. river, 11pm Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm boat on Sava river, 11pm • Hang on until the party Opera: Vladimir and Kosara • Somebody Call the Doctor, is over, Mr Stefan Braun, (Divjaković), The National Theatre, • Miss Milie, Ludost, Orff's Carmina Club 94, boat on Sava river, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Francuska 1, 7:30pm Karađorđeva 44, 11pm Burana at Sava 11pm • 3 Years in the Slaughterhouse Centre this month SATURDAY MAY 27th • Saša & Akioki, Mladost, • DJ Vuk, Shake and Shake, boat Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Hispanic Karađorđeva 44, 11pm Opera: Carmen (Bizet), The National on Sava river, 11pm Stefana 115, 11pm Carl Orff's most famous Theatre, Francuska 1, 7pm • Hang on until the party • DJ Prema, Industrija Bar, • Blow Up Friday, Shake and KOLARAC piece, Carmina Burana, , Mr Stefan Braun, film festival MONDAY MAY 29th is over Karađorđeva 23, 11pm Shake, boat on Sava river, 11pm will see a special per- Nemanjina 4, 11pm • DJ Lucky, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, • RnB, Club 94, boat on Sava river, PROGRAMME formance at the Sava Chamber Orchestra Amoroso, Ilija • Pure Cream, Club 94, boat on 10pm 11pm M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Centre on May 27th which boasts expanded Trg 5, 11am Sava river, 11pm • Cojke, Ludost, Karađorđeva 44, • ALIEN ALIEN, 20/44, boat on will include not only the TUESDAY MAY 30th • 39.2, KPTM, Žorža Klemansoa 11pm Sava River, 11pm Radio Television Serbia 22, 11pm • SMT#NG feat Neutron, Symphonic Orchestra and programme Anatasija Stanković, paino, Italian Mladost, Karađorđeva 44, 11pm th Cultural Centre, Kneza Miloša 56, 8pm • St Louis, Summer Stake SATURDAY MAY 27 Choir, but also the Faculty • DJ Boško Pešić, Mr Stefan Ballet: Coppelia (Delibes), The Bitefartcafe, Kalemegdan of Musical Arts orches- The Bar is a hilarious but very dark and intriguing comedy about a group of people that are trapped in the eponymous space. Photo: Španski Metar National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Centurion, Elektropionir, Fortress, 11pm tra and choir, the RTS • Pure Cream, Club 94, boat on Cetinjska 15, 9pm WEDNESDAY MAY 31st • YES meets Brutaž, 20/44, boat children's choir and the 2016 awards. It's a story about a man co after troops did not allow more than Sava river, 11pm FRIDAY, MAY 19TH Soloists: Srdjan Vukasinović, accor- The tenth annual who spends eight years in prison for 200 migrants to arrive on the shores of Sofia di Soma, violin, Ilija M. Kolarac on Sava River, 11pm th Obilić choir. Tickets for the • Luka Concrete & Bojan MONDAY MAY 29 dion (Switzerland) robbing a jewellery store and re-enters Tarajal. Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 11am • Rebolledo, Ewox, Kristijan event will cost between 6 Opera: Rigoletto (Verdi), The Vukmirović, KPTM, Žorža Concert Hall, 8pm Vasa Vučković, clarinet Hispanometraje the real world to find that everything The Honorary Goya Award for this Molnar, Cultural Centre Grad, and 12 euros depending National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm Klemansoa 22, 11pm • Ross the Boss Band, Dušan Kostić, bass Stana Krstajić, flute and Ognjen Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra on seating place. film festival will about his life has changed. year was given to Spanish actress and Braće Krsmanović 4, 10pm • Girls, Boys and Toys, Summer Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm For Beginners 4 Urmin Nes Majstorović, horn Popović, clarinet, City Hall, Hispanometraje is also known for singer Ana Belen, and Hispanometraje Dragoslava Jovanovića 2, 8pm Stake Bitefartcafe, Kalemegdan • Dža ili Bu, Studentski Grad Conductor: Program: Bach, Vivaldi, Bottesini, featuring great comedies every year plans on celebrating the occasion ac- "Mediala: showcase more st Fortress, 11pm Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana Mikhail Jurowski Bauman and 2017 is no exception. The festival cordingly. THURSDAY JUNE 1 Then and Now" • YES meets Brutaž, 20/44, boat Đinđića 179, 8pm Programme: Ticket fees: 300 and 500 dinars bold, provocative will be screening Inseparables, a re- Belen began her film career at the age Ballet: The Picture of Dorian Grey on Sava River, 11pm • DJ Marchez, Club 94, boat on W. A. Mozart: Symphony No. 40 in G at RTS gallery make of the French film The Intoucha- of 13 in 1965 and went on to become an (Logunov), The National Theatre, FRIDAY MAY 26TH Sava river, 11pm minor and emotional bles. It's a hilarious and touching story iconic figure in the world of Spanish cin- Francuska 1, 7:30pm SUNDAY MAY 21st D. Shostakovich: Symphony No. 5 Perhaps one of the most of a rich quadriplegic who while look- ema. Production: Belgrade Philharmonic Concert Hall, 8pm EXHIBITIONS TUESDAY MAY 30th vital art movements in the films from Spain ing for a therapeutic assistant desires She has worked with all of the major Orchestra Kemal Gekić, piano AND EVENTS Serbian art scene was to hire his gardener Tito for the job in- Spanish directors and eventually decid- • Retro Trance, KPTM, Žorža Production: Metropolis and Latin America the avant-garde group stead of a certified professional from ed to take her place behind the camera th Klemansoa 22, 5pm • DJ Vlada, Freestyler, boat on SATURDAY MAY 20TH Ticket fees: 1000, 1200 and 1500 FRIDAY MAY 19 Sava river, 11pm "Mediala", comprising that field. as well when she started directing mov- dinars this year. Exhibition: "Practikum", Museum nd artists such as Leonid Like many recent film festivals, His- ies back in the 1990s. She found instant MONDAY MAY 22 Concert Hall, 8pm of African Art, Andre Nikolića 14, st TH Šejka and Olja Ivanjicki. WEDNESDAY MAY 31 The Clarinotts SUNDAY MAY 28 David GALIĆ panometraje has dedicated one pro- success as a director with How to Be a 6pm "Mediala: Then and Now" gramme to migration, a very important Woman and Not Die Trying becoming Exhibition: Acropolis, Belgrade City • DJ Marchez, Club 94, boat on Soloist: Andreas Ottensamer – The Museum, Resavska 40b, 7pm Sava river, 11pm • Summer Jam, Club 94, boat on First Soloist Clarinetist of Berlin Phil- Concert Hall, 11pm will present the work of rganisers have an- social and political topic of the last the most successful film in all of Spain The Month of Mathematics, FREE COPY Sava river, 11pm harmonic Chamber Orchestra Amoroso Leskovac some of the finest regional nounced that the His- several years. This programme will be in 1991. Scientific Club, Kralja Petra 46, 10am rd Conductor: Rade Pejčić panometraje film festival made up completely of documentary Five of her films will be shown at TUESDAY MAY 23 • Shake D Wednesday: RnB, Shake Daniel Ottensamer - The First Soloist contemporary artists influ- SATURDAY MAY 20th Clarinetist of Vienna Philharmonic Programme: enced by this surreal art will be more robust this films that have been selected by David the festival, The House of Bernarda Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. and Shake, boat on Sava river, 11pm Ernst Ottensamer - The First Soloist Handel- Halvorsen, Passacaglia movement. The exhibition year, with three film cat- Varela of the Spanish Documentary Alba, Torture, The Petition, Demons in Exhibition: "Art and Science", Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade • Monday Bizzaro, Studentski Podroom Gallery, Knez Mihailova 6, st Clarinetist of Vienna Philharmonic (musical arrangement for the String th Oegories as follows; Contemporary Films, Film Association – Docma. the Garden, and Love Seriously Harms Grad Cultural Centre, Bulevar THURSDAY JUNE 1 will be open until June 5 12pm Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Orchestra) Imaginary Geography and the Honor- The stories in these documentaries Health. Zorana Đinđića 179, 8pm Christoph Traxler, piano in the gallery of RTS in Exhibition: Hye-soon Lee, UK Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić Programme: Mozart, Bizet, Kovács … Basse-danse ary Goya Award 2017, which is dedicat- are told by migrants from many differ- Belen will also be making an appear- Parobrod, Kapetan Mišina 6a, 6pm • Nineties, Freestyler, boat on • Despite Everything & Tea Takovska 10. Museum Night, Various Locations, BIRN editorial team: Production: CEBEF Pavane ed to the work of Spanish actress Ana ent countries and years, but all work to- ance in Belgrade on the closing night of Sava river, 11pm Break & Between Two Sides, 5pm-1am Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, Ticket fee: 500 dinars Tordion Belen this year. gether in the goal of trying to verbalise the festival. • Slap & Tickle – Dea, Danijel Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm What's on at the nd [email protected] Bransles Hispanometraje's contemporary films what it feels like to have no choice but to All screenings of films that are part MONDAY MAY 22 Čerhanov, Club 94, boat on • House Night, Freestyler, boat ST Pieds-en-l'air Film Archive this Sales & Marketing: Marija SUNDAY MAY 21 programme will feature 12 films, none leave your home and seek a better life of the contemporary programme will Belgrade International Sava river, 11pm on Sava river, 11pm Mattachins month? Petrović older than four years. The opening film elsewhere. be held at the Movie Theatre of the Bel- Architecture Week, In front of Peter Warlock, Capriol Suite Mileševska Street's square, 11am Phone: +381 11 4030 302 Concert Hall, 11am will be Alex de la Iglesia's The Bar, which Notes on Emigration is a documenta- grade Cultural Centre, the famed DKC. Concert of professors and students of Trajko Prokopjev, Doiran for Flute The Yugoslav Film Archive [email protected] is a hilarious but very dark and intrigu- ry directed by Jacinto Esteva and Paolo Tickets for each film cost less than two TUESDAY MAY 23rd Faculty of Music and The Strings (arrangement Saša will be busy this month Subscription & Distribution: ing comedy about a group of people that Brunatto that examines the migration euros. Kolarac Podium of Chamber Orches- Nikolovski Đumar) hosting a special set of Exhibition: Eric Delmare, Haos are trapped in a bar. of many Spanish workers during the The Imaginary Geography films will Gallery, Dositejeva 3, 7pm Goran Knezevic tra Soloist: Katarina Miljković events that will include Another interesting one is 2014's late 1950s and early 1960s to Switzer- be screened for free at the Žitomlin +381 11 4030 303 Production: Music Centre Jan Sibelius, Romance in C major, Op. 12 th a celebration of gothic Beautiful Youth directed by Jaime Ro- land, why they left and how it affected theatre in cooperation with the Mikser WEDNESDAY MAY 24 [email protected] Admission free Julius Klengel, Scherzo for Cello and subcultures, a day of sales. It tells the story of a young, cash- Spain as a result. Festival. Tickets for the Ana Belen pro- Modern Serbian Cuisine, Mediterranean and Italian cuisine The Strings (arrangement Konstantin Exhibition: Bojan M. Đukić, Dom Japanese films, student strapped couple who decide to try and Irene Gutiérrez's Border Journals is gramme also cost less than two euros Omladine, Makedonska 22, 6pm Printing: POLITIKA štamparija SERBIAN CUISINE THROUGH CENTURIES MONDAY MAY 22 ND Blagojević) films and events dedi- make some extra money by creating a short documentary about African each with screenings at the Yugoslav th d.o.o. Soloist: Petar Pejčić THURSDAY MAY 25 cated to film stars Jack and selling a homemade pornographic migration while Tarajal: Dismantling Film Archive. ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight Concert Hall, 8pm Aleksandar Vujić, Serbian Kolo film of themselves. the Impunity of the Southern Border is Hispanometraje begins on Sunday, Exhibition: Maja Skovran, Cvijeta "From Bach to Bauman" - New Sym- Chamber Orchestra Amoroso Leskovac Nicholson and Robert , Mali Kalemegdan 1, 7pm COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 st Zuzorić phony Orchestra "Makris" Production: Music Centre Redford, among others. To The winner of numerous Goya a documentary directed by Xavier Ar- May 21 and closes on Thursday, June Circulation: 4,000 st th Conductor: Predrag Gosta Admission free see the full programme, Awards – Spain's Oscar equivalent - The tigas, Xapo Ortega and Marc Serra that 1 . To find out more about the pro- MONDAY MAY 29 Fury of a Patient Man won Best Picture, focuses on the events of February 6th, gramme, venues and tickets, visit the Reservations: +381 11 2607436, www.vagon-victoria.rs visit the Archive's official Exhibition: "Connecting People to Location: Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 44a, New Belgrade website: www.kinoteka. Best New Director, Best Supporting Ac- 2014, when at least 15 people drowned film festival official website: www.span- Nature", Singidunum Gallery, Kneza Mihaila 40, 7pm Working Hours: Mon-Sun 8 a.m. - 1 a.m. org.rs. tor and Best Original Screenplay at the at the border between Spain and Moroc- skimetar.rs/en/. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 19 - Thursday, June 01, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 19 - Thursday, June 01, 2017 15 GOING OUT ON THE SPOT New Cemetery has a life of its own Belgrade's New Cemetery is a beautiful testament to those who lived and died in Belgrade.

Pubby's Magic Garden

The fact that Pubby's is a bit of a hidden gem is probably what gives it such a cool yet relaxed atmosphere. Photo: Filip Arsić.

able, you can comfortably circulate what exclusive feeling that comes with selection of tunes is definitely eclectic One of the best things about Belgrade around the pub. frequenting a bar that not many people and rich. nightlife is that there are many bars One of the most interesting things know about. Pubby's is a great place if you're look- about Pubby's is the interior, which has Another thing that stands out imme- ing to go out and have drinks deep into and clubs around the city that are a very oriental vibe that you probably diately about Pubby's is the warm staff. the night as well, because it tends to wouldn't expect from the outside. With Everyone working seems happy to be stay open a little later than most bars hidden from view, just waiting to be oriental decorations hanging from there and will bend over backwards to in the city centre, often as late as 2am. the ceiling, rugs on the wall and many make sure you have everything you The only real negative about Pubby's is discovered. other details designed in that style, it need. that it can get really smoky and stuffy To get to Pubby's, you need to go actually looks like you're in Istanbul, You probably wouldn't expect a small since it's so small but, then again, that's through the passage way located not Belgrade. place like Pubby's to have a big drink a problem in just about every club and David GALIĆ right next to the famed Trg pizza spot The fact that Pubby's is a bit of a hid- selection, but it does. There is an ample bar in Belgrade since smoking is al- that is open 24/7. Once you reach the den gem is probably what gives it such amount of beers - both dark and light - lowed everywhere. ubby's Magic Garden isn't courtyard, you'll see a small house in a cool and relaxed atmosphere. Most on tap, an excellent rakija selection and Still, anyone who is looking for a cool all that easy to spot, despite the courtyard area that looks as if it re- of the people who hang out at Pubby's surprisingly good cocktails as well. new bar to visit in the centre of the city The Avenue of Distinguished Citizens (Aleja Zaslužnih Građana). Photo: Srđan Garčević the fact it is located right in ally has no business being there. That's are regulars and, despite the fact that The music is also very varied at that is a bit off the beaten path and has the heart of downtown Bel- Pubby's. there's no real demographic that the Pubby's, with different DJs on different more of a local neighbourhood pub at- P Srđan GARČEVIĆ whether Serbian Orthodox, Catholic, Protestant, Famous Belgraders who died more recently are grade. It's pretty small and can probably ac- bar panders to, everyone seems to get nights. It's usually some sort of rock and mosphere should definitely check out Russian Orthodox or Muslim. Jewish Belgraders were buried behind the beautiful undulating concrete bays The pub can be found across the commodate about 50 to 70 people in- along very well. pop music from the 80s and 90s, but Pubby's to see why it's so popular, de- espite housing the dear departed, somehow buried at separate Sephardic and Ashkenazi cemeter- of the Avenue of Distinguished Citizens (Aleja Zaslužnih street from Republic Square, in the big side, with perhaps another 30 outside There's a very fun-loving spirit to there are also regular themed nights spite being a bit of a secret. Belgrade's New Cemetery (Novo Groblje) has a ies nearby which are also a site of commemoration Građana). This part of the cemetery is the resting place glass Staklenac building. Few people in front of the bar when the weather is the bar that's undeniable and prob- featuring drum 'n' bass, Latin music, Dlife of its own. The area has managed to manifest for Jews who perished in WWII. of Nobel Prize winner Ivo Andrić, and the Serbian Prime know about Pubby's because it's tucked nice. However, it is nicely arranged so ably stems from the fact that Pubby's funk and just about anything else you Pubby's Magic Garden the city's growth and trends since it opened in 1886. Most of the cemetery's most famous "residents" Minister who was assassinated in 2003, Zoran Đinđić. away in a little courtyard area of the that it never seems to be very cramped is a place that has a nice following and can imagine that isn't Serbian folk mu- Address: Makedonska 5 A stroll through its leafy alleys shows tombstones are clustered in two areas of grand memorials. The Đinđić's grave is especially popular, and visitors often building that not many visit. and, even when there's no seating avail- local patrons who appreciate the some- sic or your typical dance music. The Contact: +381 64 3445150 channelling the changing tastes of Belgrade, from the graves of notable citizens of 19th and early 20th century leave flowers and light candles. Nearby is a striking th old-fashioned neoclassical tombs of Belgrade's 19 Belgrade, some of which have been transported from memorial to the victims of WWII, and features stylised century grandees, romantic Neo-Byzantine chapels the old Tašmajdan cemetery, are in the Avenue of the candelabras to evoke public hangings at Terazije. th of early 20 century, to abstract fantasies set in stone Greats (Aleja Velikana) – the most picturesque of the A walk through the cemetery also reveals the Funk King Keziah Drugstore weekend during socialist times. Besides the usual forest of cemetery. dramatic fates of several foreigners who lived and died Jones at BitefArtCafé anniversary party angels, crosses and columns marking the graves, one Nearby is one of the most famous graves at the in Belgrade. One especially interesting part of the cem- can also find sentimental photos, poems and even an cemetery: a pyramidal chapel housing remains of etery carries the remains of Russian émigrés who fled advertisement for a car dealership that all shed light oming back to Serbia for another summer gig is elgrade's coolest underground dance music venue Drug- Branislav Nušić, the renowned Serbian satirist and to Serbia after the October Revolution. Given Belgrade's on the lives of Belgraders who passed away. the famed Nigerian guitarist, singer and song- store is celebrating its third anniversary with a week- playwright. Its unusual shape was intentional and turbulent history there are also several military cem- For a while, the cemetery was separated into sev- writer Keziah Jones, whom the people at end-long party on May 26th to 27th. The name of the aimed to make it difficult for his enemies to desecrate eteries, bearing the remains of Bulgarian, British, French, eral sections depending on the faith of the deceased, BitefArtCafé have booked in previous years. event, Three Years in the Slaughterhouse, obviously his resting place. Italian, Austro-Hungarian and Russian soldiers. Jones will be playing on Thursday, July refers to the venue's previous occupants. The week- C27th at Bitef's outdoor summer venue, which is located in endB event will feature a pair of French producers - Nhar on Fri- the tennis courts of the Kalemegdan Fortress. day and Shlømo on Saturday. Some have called Jones a revolutionary artist who com- As anyone who has visited Drugstore knows, there are a bines the emotion of blues with the grooves and energy of huge number of hidden areas and sections of the massive club funk music, creating what he calls "blufunk". Jones is known and, according to event organisers, a new area will be introduced for his interesting guitar techniques, especially his percussive at this party. Tickets for both nights cost six euros if you buy them slapping of the guitar's body which he uses to turn the guitar into in advance. However, tickets will cost you six euros per night if you a more rhythmic instrument. Tickets are already on sale and cost €12. buy them at the door.

AIRLINE TICKETS FOR THE WHOLE WORLD Metal legend Ross Hashima to play KST opens summer the Boss to play classics intimate bar show season with concert Fatima Hajji at Barutana New Scottish metalcore Known as the founder of influential Experimental Belgrade jazz outfit band play Kuglaš As always, KST, one of Belgrade's most epic heavy metal band Manowar, Hashima will be playing Belgrade Spanish techno DJ Fatima Hajji will be popular clubs for students, will be guitarist Ross the Boss is coming to again after a short break from live headlining an event at Barutana on Fri- To Kill Achilles is an up-and-coming opening their outdoor courtyard area Belgrade with his new band to play shows in the capital. They will play day, May 19th. Known for being able to six-piece metalcore band from Scot- with a big concert. The concert will nothing but classic Manowar material at the Ulica Music Bar in Balkanska really get a crowd going with her unre- land that will be playing in Serbia for take place on Friday, May 19th and will from the first few albums he featured Street on Saturday, May 20th. The lenting techno style, Hajji has played the first time on Saturday, May 27th at feature Croatian rap sensation Dječaci on – which most fans consider to be gig will feature all new music from all the biggest festivals in every part of Kuglaš. They will be supported by and Serbian experimental rockers their best material. The show takes their second album, which has been the world. Bojan Vukmirović and Sugar Serbian groove metal group Phobos. Bjesovi as the headlining acts. Tickets place on Monday, May 29th in Elektropi- recorded and is currently being Lobby will be providing local support. Tickets cost five euros and will only be www.flyflytravel.com cost five euros at the door. onir and tickets cost €12 at the door. mixed. Tickets cost three euroes. Tickets cost five euros at the door. sold at the door. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, May 19 - Thursday, June 01, 2017 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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