-EU: ’s ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR ‘Reform Process Best-kept +381 11 4030 303 [email protected] Stalls as Kafana - ISSN 1820-8339 1 Dialogue Secrets BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 Dominates’

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Issue No. 262 Friday, November 9 - Thursday, November 22, 2018 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - NEWS NEWS “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, page 5 conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party REMEMBERING E

WWI IN BELGRADE Friday • June 13 2008

Armistice Day 2018 marks 100 years THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED since the end of I –Belgrade has on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. several poignant memorials to those who T lost their lives.

Fabian VENDRIG other side for the or the Kingdom of . n the Belgrade area there are It is estimated that Serbia lost more many monuments commemo- than 1.1 million inhabitants during the rating . A lot were war, including both army and civilian damaged during World War II losses. This represented more than 26 by German occupiers and those per cent of its, then, total population and Ithat survived fell into disrepair. 58 per cent of its adult male population. The socialist government of the for- Armistice Day – the day when the mer did not support mark- truce was signed on November 11, 1918 ing World War I as it was thought com- – became an official public holiday in memorations could undermine the Serbia in 2012. “brotherhood and unity” between the Some World War I monuments oc- people of the Yugoslav republics. cupy prominent locations in the city The Croats, Bosnians and Slovenes but most are less well-known and can were part of the Austro-Hungarian be found in hidden, quiet places. Empire and thus were conscripted to that army. The , Macedonians and Montenegrins were fighting on the Continued on page 5

Ivan Mestrovic’s “Victor” monument, which commemorates Serbian victories in the Photo: Fabian Vendrig and World War I, came to be one of Belgrade’s most beloved symbols.

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 9 - November 22, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 9 - November 22, 2018 3 SERBIA SERBIA Serbia-EU: ‘Reform Process Stalls as Kosovo Dialogue Dominates’

A coalition of NGOs entitled prEUgovor warned that the reform process has not only stagnated in areas like the rule of law, it is actually going backwards. Photo: Media Centre Belgrade

The Serbian Minister for European ‘KOSOVO OVERSHADOWS been opened or closed, and more on is part of the prEUgovor group, says all tina,” European Commission spokes- “Concrete reforms and results in these Serbia must make more progress if it “Whenever we discuss Serbia in Brus- Sem Fabrizi, the EU ambassador to Belgrade hopes Integration, Jadranka Joksimovic, said CRUCIAL REFORMS’ preparing the ground for credible, eyes should be focused on the progress person on EU enlargement negotia- areas are what matters for Serbia, for the wants to join the EU in 2025, which has sels, the issue of relations and coopera- Serbia, added his voice to calls for Bel- to progress EU the conference could lead to the open- comprehensive and sustainable po- of key domestic reforms rather than tions, Maja Kocijancic, told BIRN. European Union and for their citizens,” been described as a realistic deadline tion with is on the agenda. It's not grade to speed up the reform process ing of chapters 9, 17 and 18 specifically, Natasha Wunsch is a postdoctoral litical and economic reforms that will whether new chapters will be opened. She added that it will be crucial for she underlined, adding the European by EU and Serbian officials. a matter of any categorical conclusions, while attending an event on November membership which relate to financial services, eco- researcher with the European Politics improve the lives of Serbian citizens Serbia to demonstrate strong, sustained Commission’s Western Balkans Strategy “With this pace and in this way, it is there are always more questions and 7 at which the Foreign Investors Coun- nomic and monetary policy, and statis- Group at ETH Zurich and an associate that could at a later stage be fully im- SERBIA’S ‘LAST political commitment to democratic adopted in February 2018 set enlarge- not realistic to expect membership in doubts about the extent to which this is cil presented a ‘White Book’ of propos- talks but experts tics. fellow with the German Council on For- plemented in order to meet EU require- OPPORTUNITY’ governance and the rule of law while ment among its priorities. 2025. You need to move faster,” Kukan really good and what to do about it.” als to improve the business environ- “We believe that on the basis of con- eign Relations (DGAP) specialising in ments. also delivering convincing results, in However, Belgrade received a con- said during an interview with N1 televi- However, he stressed that if Serbia ment in Serbia. warn continued crete and visible steps… when it comes EU enlargement. A coalition of NGOs entitled prEUgo- He also noted that Belgrade should particular on justice, the fight against crete warning on October 30 from the sion. continued to develop economic relations “Reforms should be accelerated but to action plans and reforms in the field While describing Serbia-EU nego- vor, which monitors Serbia’s EU acces- by the end of 2018 review strategic corruption and organised crime, and Delegation to the EU-Serbia Stabilisa- He also noted another issue that is with Russia in accordance with EU rules their sustainability must be ensured,” focus on Kosovo’s of the rule of law, there will be plenty tiations as “rather sluggish so far”, she sion process, has warned in a report documents for two key chapters on fundamental rights including freedom tion and Association Parliamentary slowing Serbian progress toward the and “the priority of Serbia is, indeed, the Fabrizi was quoted saying by Beta news of quality materials, that an important warns the “Kosovo dialogue tends to published last month that the reform the rule of law covering the judiciary, of expression. Committee, Eduard Kukan, who said EU – Russia. European Union, we are satisfied”. agency. status means package of the chapters will be opened overshadow progress” on broader, Ser- process has not only stagnated in areas the fight against corruption and police Serbia’s reform by the end of December,” she told the Par- bian accession issues – such as govern- like the rule of law, it is actually going reform, which he described as the “last liamentary Board for EU integration on ance and rule of law – and how that is backwards. opportunity to show serious commit- agenda has October 29, FoNet news agency reported. communicated to citizens. The prEUgovor report states that, in ment to reforms and to compensate for Opening new chapters would indeed “Yet pitting the status of Kosovo the period from April to September this the backlog”. Published by stagnated, or feel like progress given Serbia has so far against the goal of EU membership is year, the Serbian parliament continued “If Serbia really plans to, as an- opened 14 of 35 chapters and provision- not a helpful perspective with regards to accept government requests for ‘ur- nounced, be ready by 2025 to take on is even going ally closed just two, which refer to sci- to improving living conditions for Ser- gent procedure’ processing of laws and the obligations of membership of the ence, research, education and culture, bian citizens more broadly. On the con- accept draft legislation that has never EU, at this moment it is not doing nearly backwards. since applying for membership in De- trary, the focus should be on addressing been publicly debated. enough to make this a realistic scenar- cember 2009. concrete grievances among the popu- The report authors also said that io,” he warned. By comparison, neighbouring Mon- lation, such as unemployment and the democratic civil control over defence However, Elek predicts that - despite tenegro has opened 31 of 33 chapters persistence of clientelism and legal un- and security institutions is weak in Serbia being “effectively at the stage of Maja ZIVANOVIC and closed three. It applied for mem- certainty, rather than overemphasising practice and that during the same six- state capture” following changes in the bership just a year earlier, in December the unresolved question of Kosovo's month period, obstructions in the work law that he says concentrate power in A LEADING PROVIDER OF NEWS AND ANALYSIS IN SOUTHEAST ustria, who currently 2008. statehood,” Wunsch told BIRN. of the Commissioner for Freedom of the hands of individuals - the EU is un- holds the rotating EU The key sticking point is normalising She also underlined that if and when Access to Information had intensified. likely to loudly criticise Belgrade “pri-

presidency, is host- relations between Serbia and its former a solution to the Kosovo dispute is In addition, the report accused the marily because of the hope of achiev- ing the 9th EU-Serbia province Kosovo. Pristina declared found, the EU “will be quick to return executive and legislative powers in ing progress in the dialogue between intergovernmental independence in 2008, something to remaining weaknesses in the rule of Serbia of abusing the process of acces- Belgrade and Pristina”. for in-depth analysis, investigative reports, conference on De- Belgrade has refused to recognise. The law and democratic practices which, in sion negotiations and the fact that the For its part, the EU underlines that features, interviews, commentary and profileson the latest Acember 10. EU launched the dialogue on Kosovo light of the current experiences the EU country is currently being given ‘con- the pace of accession negotiations is business and political headlines. Despite slow progress on joining the and Serbia in March 2011, aiming for full is having with democratic backsliding cessions’ on the reform agenda due to firmly in Serbia’s hands. EU so far, particularly as Serbia has normalisation defined in a legally bind- among some recent member states, the much-hoped-for completion of Bel- “EU accession is a merit-based pro- been widely regarded as a frontrunner ing agreement. will remain crucial obstacles to Serbia's grade’s dialogue to normalise relations cess… It is defined by Serbia's progress for membership, Belgrade is hoping However, the ongoing dispute has EU membership”. with Pristina. in the implementation of reforms, in new chapters in accession negotiations held up both countries membership Overall, Wunsch added, the focus Bojan Elek, a researcher at the Bel- particular in the rule of law, as well as in could be opened. negotiations for years. should be less on which chapters have grade Centre for Security Policy that the normalisation of relations with Pris- OTHER BIRN SERVICES: 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 9 - November 22, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 9 - November 22, 2018 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Dance Festival Continued from page 1 Tickets on Sale Ethno Food and Drink Fest Comes to Town The next edition of the interna- tional Belgrade Dance Festival The popular annual fair is rakijas (fruit brandy) and juices, among is set for March and April 2019, bringing more than 2,000 other delicacies. but tickets for the event are The popular November event aims already on sale. The sixteenth homemade, traditional to “affirm traditional products as first- Remembering version of the much-loved and organic products to class market and export items, which festival takes place at various locations across the capital, in brief Belgrade Belgrade this month, on should become an indispensable ele- including the Centre, a mission to reconnect ment of the tourist offer with the final Theatre and Belgrade goal of branding traditional products”, WWI in Drama Theatre. A total of 16 Serbians with traditional the organisers said in a press release. dance troops from 11 coun- nutritious fare. Apart from promoting Serbian tradi- tries, including isolated North tional products, organisers say that the Korea, will give performances. festival aims to protect names and reci- Belgrade For the full programme and in- Ivana NIKOLIC pes, to connect producers, investors and formation on tickets, visit www. customers and – last but not least – “to belgradedancefestival.com. he Traditional Ethno Food and improve the culture of the population’s Drink Fair returns to Belgrade nutrition by introducing traditional food Warm Weather Delays Tfor the thirteenth time, taking products, and improve the health of the VICTOR () KOSUTNJAK PARK New Year Decorations place from November 21 to 24 at Bel- population as it [the festival] is often MONUMENTS AND GRAVES grade Fair’s hall 3. about organically-grown materials. The most prominent of Belgrade’s World War I Deputy Mayor Goran Vesic said Organisers expect around 400 ex- “By preserving traditional dishes, monuments is Pobednik (‘victor’ or ‘winner’). The In Kosutnjak park, close to Kneza Viseslava the New Year decorations in the hibitors with 2,000 products and hope one expresses respect for tradition and statue of the ‘victor’ holds a sword and a bird in street, there are several, less well-known and hard- capital will not be turned on to outnumber the 2017 show, which contributes to the protection of nation- his hands and stands atop a 14-metre column in er to spot World War I monuments and graves. until November 15, citing the some 5,150 people attended. al identity,” the organisers added in the the in . It was The largest of them bears the following inscrip- unusually high temperatures During the three festival days, visi- press release. designed by Ivan Mestrovic to commemorate the tion in German: Hier ruhen Serbischen helden for this time of the year as tors will have a chance to meet produc- The festival will gather both domestic Balkan Wars in 1912 and 1913. (Serbian heroes rest here), with the same text be- the main reason for the delay. ers of traditional food products that and regional food and drink producers, In the meantime, Belgrade are exclusively hand-made using long- small and lesser known family compa- Pobednik overlooks the confluence of the Sava low in Serbian. has got another decorative established recipes. nies as well as familiar big names. and rivers. The Austro-Hungarian Empire This now-decaying monument was commis- attraction, the Gate of Bel- Most of these producers use or- Apart from sampling traditional dish- stretched across both rivers, and the first fighting sioned by German General August von Mackens- grade, which was installed on ganically grown raw materials and es and delicatessen, visitors may taste of World War I broke out on these river banks on en immediately after Belgrade was captured by November 5. July 28, 1914. the Germans and the Austro-Hungarians in 1915, Plans to put up and turn on the specialties include various jams, new products “based on the more tradi- However, Pobednik was not finished until the as he was so impressed with the courage shown New Year decorations in slatko – a form of candied fruit, ajvar (a tional ones that emerged from need, or mid-September caused an much-loved pepper relish in the Bal- from producers’ imaginations”. end of World War I and has also since served to by the Serbian defenders of the city. kans), cakes, pies, breads, cured meat, mark the defeat of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. After World War I, the Yugoslav government avalanche of criticism on social The fair offers an opportunity to stock up on some of Photo: Courtesy of the Ethno media. Many users complained different sorts of honey and cheese, For more information, visit Serbia’s best foods. Food and Drink Fest The plan was to erect the monument on Terazi- exhumed the bodies of the Serbian fighters and about the high cost of turning traditional spices or flavourings, wines, www.etnohip.rs. je, the city’s central square, but its current location reburied them in the New in Ruzeltova on the decorations months was agreed after many residents objected to the street. Few people know the graves of the German before the actual celebrations statue’s nudity. It was finally erected in 1928. soldiers are still here as they have fallen into disre- start. Officials defended the pair and are barely visible. idea, however, arguing that Green Fest Focuses on Hazards of Plastic CHARNEL HOUSE OF THE DEFENDERS There is also a monument for the German sol- many metropolises around the OF BELGRADE (KOSTURNICA diers who fought during World War I marking the world do the same. The documentaries come from all over The Annual International BRANILACA BEOGRADA) AND graves of “The Prussian Reserve - Infantry Regi- Monument and Memorial Ossuary to the Defenders of Belgrade at New Cemetery. Photo: Fabian Vendrig the globe and are listed in four categories: RUZICA CHURCH ment 208 to its fallen heroes”. Fulfill Your Childhood Green Culture Festival Films up to one minute, Animated films, Dreams at Aviation returns with films, Nature films, Short films and Serbian The charnel house is just behind Ruzica church, ARCHIBALD REISS GRAVE Museum films. workshops and exhibits which is a five-minute walk from the Pobednik AND MONUMENT (GROB There will also be several exhibitions, aiming to raise awareness monument. Belgrade’s Aeronautical lectures and workshops tackling the ARCIBALDA RAJSA) Museum, which is next to the of the harmful overuse of theme of plastic, such as a panel discus- The ossuary is marked with a cross made from city’s Nikola Tesla airport, has plastic. sion, “Plastic is not a toy”, about health as- cannon barrels. Visitors cannot see anything as Doctor Archibald Reiss (1876-1929) was a famous introduced a new attraction for pects of the use of plastic in everyday life. the bones are behind the door. The monument Swiss criminologist, publicist and professor of the visitors – a flight simulator. Us- Ivana NIKOLIC In a bid to show the relationship be- commemorates the bravery of Serbian soldiers University of Lausanne. The Serbian government ing the simulator, museumgo- tween fashion and environment, the or- who, led by Major Dragutin Gavrilovic, defended invited him to conduct an investigation into atroci- ers can check how it feels to nder the slogan “Plastic is not a ganisers will present two recycled plastic Belgrade from the German and Austro-Hungarian ties committed by Austro-Hungarian, German and fly a plane. According to the armies. Bulgarian forces during World War I at the very museum, the flight simula- toy. Change the game!” the ninth clothing exhibitions, “Mima Eco Art” and tor was intended for a Boeing UInternational Green Culture Festi- “Blue Eco Design”. When it became clear that Belgrade was to be start of the war. He became so close to the Serbian Green Fest takes place November 13-16 at Dom Omladine. Photo: Courtesy of Green Fest 737 and is used for training as val is taking place from November 13-16 at “By using plastic as a material, the au- lost, Gavrilovic gave a legendary speech before the people that he decided to stay in Belgrade. well. Visitors may take a turn Belgrade’s Dom Omladine. thor calls for an awakening of awareness Apart from that, the students “strive to erBlue: Can fashion save the Planet? soldiers went into the final battle for the defence of His grave is in Topcider graveyard, which is not at playing pilot every day from The backbone of this year’s festival will about recycling, as, through art, she pre- expand the story and raise awareness in directed by David McIlvride and Roger Belgrade in 1915. The following is an extract from far from Kosutnjak. A monument to him lies in 9am to 5pm. The Tourist Or- be its rich film programme, focused on sents the potential of waste and the way society about the harmful effects of the Williams. that speech: Topcider park, which, in turn, is not so far from the ganisation of Belgrade calls it ecology, the environment, sustainable de- in which it can be used as a raw mate- use of plastic bags”. The film discusses how the fashion “The supreme command has erased our regi- graveyard. At his request, his heart was buried on “a unique opportunity in Serbia, velopment and human rights. rial for artistic expression,” the organisers Apart from the plastic, this year’s festi- industry contaminates rivers across the ment from its records. Our regiment has been Kajmakcalan - a mountain on the Greek-Macedo- since this type of simulator is A total of 54 full feature films, short and said, referring to “Mima Eco Art”. val also tackles climate change in several world and its effects on people’s health. Nev- sacrificed for the honour of Belgrade and the Fa- nian border where a fierce battle took place in 1916. medium-length films will be shown, as Another interesting exhibition, KNI- ways, such as a video exhibition, “The ertheless, the future looks brighter through a rarity in both European and therland. Therefore, you no longer need to worry well as the seven “most important docu- ToMANIA, presents the ideas of two stu- Climate Caravan”, which features French the use of new technologies with the aim of world museums”. A 15-minute about your lives: they no longer exist. So, forward NEW CEMETERY (NOVO GROBLJE) “informative flight” – as the of- mentaries from the last and the ongoing dents who are reusing plastic bags “in and Serbian experts on ways to fight this creating ethical and sustainable fashion. to glory! For the King and the Fatherland! Long live WWI MONUMENTS fer is described on the museum year,” organisers say, adding that six of a useful and creative way”. The two are literally burning issue. the King, Long live Belgrade!” website – costs 2,000 dinars them will be having their world premiere knitting backpacks, bags, pendants and The festival opens on November 13 For more information, visit: The Ruzica church itself was heavily damaged There are several monuments to and graves for [around €17]. in Serbia. phone bags out of ones already used. with the multi-award winning film Riv- www.greenfest.rs. during World War I as the front line was close by. It soldiers who fought with different armies during was here where soldiers received blessings (prob- World War I, including French, Italian, Austro-Hun- ably their last) before they went straight to the garian, Bulgarian and, of course, Serbian soldiers. Find your copy of ORDER DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR front line. Later, during the Second World War, Russian and +381 11 4030 303, [email protected] In front of the church you can see two figures of British soldiers were also buried here. Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight Serbian soldiers, molten out of artillery shells: one The grave of famous Serbian World War I gener- from the Middle Ages and one from World War I. als - Zivojin Misic and Pavle Sturm Jurisic - and a The huge chandelier inside the church is particu- chapel for Field Marshal can also larly interesting and impressive as it is made of be found in the New Cemetery. HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION RADISSON BLU World War I era bullets. The Serbian ossuary contains the remains of Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE OLD MILL HOTEL 3,529 identified and 1,074 unidentified soldiers Address: Kolarceva 3 Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 MONUMENT who were killed during the Balkan Wars (1912-13) HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL CROWNE PLAZA SKVER 44 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade OF GRATITUDE and World War I. Above the ossuary stands an Pozeska 44a Address: 9 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 Address: RESTAURANT BIZU TO (SPOMENIK impressive monument to the Belgrade Defenders Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 RESTAURANT DVA JELENA ZAHVALNOSTI 1914-1918. CAFE SNEZANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF INTERGALACTIC DINER Address: Skadarska 32 Internacionalnih brigada 22 FRANCUSKOJ) Normally a commemoration ceremony is held Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac Address: INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF Address: , Bulevar on November 11 at 11 o’clock with state dignitaries Address: Skadarska 34 BELGRADE Mihajla Pupina 85A Another well-known World War I monument is and delegations from foreign embassies, missions KOLARAC Address: Temisvarska 19 the monument of Gratitude to France, which was and members of the public. Note that for most of Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL COURTYARD BY TOURIST MARRIOTT THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL also designed by Ivan Mestrovic. Recently renovated the year, the foreign graveyards are usually closed. ORGANISATION OF SERBIA HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE with the help of the French embassy, it also stands in Address: Trg Republike 5 Address: Kneza Milosa 5 Address: Smetanina 12 Address: Kolarceva 7 Kalemegdan park, just a couple of hundred metres For more information on these and other World Address: Cika Ljubina 8 HILTON BELGRADE at the end of Belgrade’s main street Knez Mihailova. War I monuments, you can view a (not yet com- Address: Kralja Milana 35 The monument was unveiled on November 11, 1930 plete) map on the author’s blog: as a token of appreciation to Serbia’s ally France. blog.fabian-vendrig.eu/ww1/map/ 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 9 - November 22, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 9 - November 22, 2018 7 SERBIA BUSINESS COMMENT Serbian Tech Firms Serbia’s Look Abroad for Staff Men Need Unable to recruit enough a Dose of programmers and engineers at home, Serbia’s booming Movember tech industry is increasingly reliant on It is high time me with practical tools to manage my health and feel better. international men in Serbia When I returned to Serbia, I was adamant about continuing my par- hires. stopped feeling ticipation in Movember, although I was aware that not only was the idea was ‘OK about not almost completely unheard-of, but also Mitjo VAULASVIRTA quite likely to rise eyebrows and get a being OK’ – and fair few scoffs. erbian tech compa- In Serbia, sporting a ‘tache is un- nies struggle to find got real about remarkable, while raising money for talent,” says Nevenka both their mental medical research charities compete Rangelov, editor of with arguably more pressing causes, Serbia’s leading tech- such as helping gravely ill children with “Snology blog StartIt, adding that 20 per and physical medical expenses, or proving basics cent annual growth in Serbia’s tech health. for many families who are living on the industry has left the country short of brink of poverty. qualified programmers and engineers. However, the most important rea- Serbia’s IT sector employs close to Srdjan GARCEVIC son why I thought it would difficult for 50,000 people and accounts for 10 per something like Movember to take root cent of the country’s GDP. To maintain ne dreary, rainy Novem- in Serbia is the same reason why I think the growth momentum, a recent report ber in London seven Serbia needs it: the tacit expectations by the International Telecommunica- years ago I decided to of what an archetypal man in Serbia is tion Union urged Serbia to train more put my upper lip to the supposed to be like and also our cul- people to meet the growing needs of ultimate test of grow- ture, which tolerates feeling unwell. the tech sector. Oing a moustache. My motivation went We, Serbian men, are still, to a large “Our education system is not keep- beyond the increasing trendiness of extent, expected to be strong (read: ing up with market demand,” Rangelov Nordeus, one of Serbia’s most successful IT companies, is trying to attract foreign talent to Belgrade. Photo: Courtesy of Nordeus retro facial hair among UK hipsters: I tight-lipped about our problems) and says. She believes the tech sector could was starting off in a management con- solely focus on making a living and pro- Moustache graced male upper lips side the beginnings of modern Serbia Photo: WikimedaCommons / Vladimir Borovikovsky immediately absorb between 10,000 hard-to-find skills that complement Yet excessive bureaucracy around under its first leader Karadjordje… sulting firm which prided itself on its tecting our families; in exchange, we and 20,000 new employees – a number our current team and level us up,” says visas and work permits continues to be devotion to charity and quirkiness, and may occasionally, unwind with copi- that corresponds with Serbian daily Caralyn Cooley, the Chief People Officer a problem for Serbian start-ups, says an- decided to be part of their Movember ous amounts of rakija and grilled meat newspaper ’s recent estimate of Nordeus, whose staff of 170 people in- other FishingBooker recruiter Vedrana team, because the idea sounded cool at kafanas and family gatherings. that Serbia lacks 15,000 IT experts. cludes 35 foreign nationals from more Gnjatic, who bemoans the time and ef- and worth the occasional snide com- Admitting to mental health issues “It is a huge number,” Rangelov adds, than 20 countries. fort spent on completing paperwork in ment about my new looks. is an even greater taboo here than in saying that the shortage of qualified Relocating the best employees from order to hire international staff. Since it began in 2004 in Australia, London: indeed, showing some tell-tale professionals is now the main concern around the world to Serbia is a chal- “People are not used to this level of Movember was first a movement, and signs of depression, such as persistent for many technology start-ups and lenge, Cooley admits. To attract talent, red tape,” Gnjatic says, adding that Ser- then a foundation, set on spreading the negative thinking and moodiness, is companies in Serbia. She believes that Nordeus offers a variety of perks and bian start-up companies are keen to word that men need to be more con- considered manly, while being actively to meet the needs of the tech sector, benefits, including fully-covered mov- see reduced bureaucracy in all govern- cerned and open about their health concerned about it will likely get you Serbian universities need to continue ing costs, a year of transitionary hous- ment agencies. and also investing in medical research labelled as effete. increasing their student intake. ing, regular flight tickets home, and un- Albert Grain, 27, a content market- focused on men’s health. More depressingly as I was growing According to a report published in limited paid vacation time. ing specialist from England who began It initially set its sights on physical ail- up, during the tumultuous 1990s and May by the business association Vojvo- As employees also weigh quality of working at FishingBooker last year, ments affecting men, such as prostate 2000s, being dissatisfied with your life dina ICT Cluster (VOICT), the number life issues, the Nordeus website paints says that while bureaucracy poses hur- and testicular cancer, but as the move- and feeling helpless about it was virtu- of students entering public and private a tantalising picture of Belgrade as a dles for international employees, Bel- ment grew, it spread to other problems, ally a default setting for everyone, and IT study programmes has increased city of sunshine, electrifying nightlife, grade’s tech sector, nonetheless, offers most notably depression and other was justified by very political chaos by around 1,000 per year since 2014. Joris Zantvoort, a Dutch national in his late 20s, moved Photo: Courtesy of FishingBooker low-cost living, quality healthcare and attractive opportunities for people who to Belgrade to join FishingBooker. mental health issues. and economic hardship. Despite 10,000 new students enrolling international schools – themes that want to experience something new. With every year that I joined my This public acceptability of un-well- on IT-related programmes in the last to six-month course aimed at young ‘SOARING SALARIES’ also saturate the company’s YouTube “I constantly tell my friends in Eng- company’s team, Movember mattered ness lingers until today: many people academic year alone, VOICT says the career changers. The first round of the channel. land to come and work here,” Grain to me more; not only because the around me consider feeling physically sector will still need many more skilled popular course, which teaches the Rangelov says that soaring salaries Tech start-ups have also made says, adding that working in the tech crowd was fun and we were successful and mentally unwell a normal state, employees. most widely used programming lan- in Serbia’s IT sector, which VOICT esti- strides in hiring international staff sector in Belgrade affords him a con- at raising funds, but because I felt it was and do little to alleviate their own pain A large number of private education- guages like Java, received more than mates now average 1,400 euros gross from within Serbia’s growing expat siderably better lifestyle than he would important to have a movement which or seek help. al institutions, which have flooded the 12,000 applications and accepted 900 per month - compared to the national community. Belgrade-based Fishing- have working in a creative industry in spoke in a fun, open way about mental This culture of un-wellness runs so training market to meet the demand candidates. average gross salary of 573 euros - have Booker, which describes itself as the London. health. deep that a slight stigma is attached to for IT professionals with a fast-growing “It is one of the best education pro- pushed some companies to recruit staff world’s largest online travel company “We have a lot of financial freedom In London’s fast-paced corporate those who are open about being content selection of courses and study pro- grammes currently available in Ser- from lower-wage countries in North Af- for chartered fishing trips, has an expat because our salaries are good by Ser- circles, brimming with brilliant ambi- with their lives. A popular adage says that … and the reformer of the Serbian , Vuk Stefanovic Karadzic. Photo: Wikimedia Commons / Uros Knezevic grammes, could pose a solution to the bia,” Rangelov says, before cautioning rica. outreach committee that scouts native bian standards,” says Joris Zantvoort, a tious youngsters, honest talk of work- “those who feel normal in Serbia are truly employee shortage. it alone will not be enough to meet the “They are actually paid less than Ser- and near-native English speakers for Dutch national in his late 20s who has induced stress and the myriad health insane”; Pescanik, a progressive news Following the global trend, Serbian the difficult circumstances, I still think ly men, will take care of their mental However, Rangelov believes that growing demand for IT professionals bian employees,” she continues, adding their marketing department. worked at FishingBooker for two years problems it causes, was and still is, a portal and radio show, is famous for its men are more than three times as likely there is space and a need for initiatives health – even if it involves taking selfies many private programmes do not pro- that she says has forced Serbian tech that high salaries in the IT sector mean Targeting expats can help tech com- and is now in charge of a team that taboo, especially among men. dismissive, passive-aggressive motto: “If to commit suicide compared to wom- like Movember to help people admit, with the moustaches. Movember alone vide training that meets the sector’s companies to look abroad for talent. that some companies can no longer panies avoid the hurdles involved in manages social content optimisation. As Movembers progressed I became it’s fine for you, then don’t bother”. en. Our tabloids are filled with grizzly take responsibility for and address may not make a large dent in our prob- needs. “Many schools don’t produce While Rangelov says it is difficult to afford to develop their products and relocating staff from abroad, but Fish- Zantvoort say that Serbia’s tech sec- increasingly conscious that people Unfortunately, our model of mascu- incidents of domestic violence, some their own problems – especially those lems, but, hopefully, more and more employable coders,” she says, adding estimate how many foreign citizens need to look for foreign staff to contin- ingBooker’s recruiter Marko Pavicevic tor offers a less hierarchical working close to me had quite a few brushes linity combined with this cultural tol- of which might have been precluded that can be tackled more easily. Serbian men will stop being OK with that the skillset of those seeking to en- work in Serbia’s tech sector, she sees ue operating. says rapid growth and a doubling of culture, opportunities for open com- with depression and anxiety. On a per- erance of un-wellness make it difficult had there been more willingness to The smallest step towards tackling not feeling OK – and start living fuller, ter the IT market often falls short of in- that the number of firms courting inter- Internationally successful Serbian employees in the past year has made munication and an outlet for creative sonal level, I became more aware of the for many to understand that they even address mental health issues, such as our problems is a welcome step. When healthier lives. dustry standards. national talent is growing, which puts tech firms like the Belgrade-based mo- the company also consider launching ideas – qualities he believes are absent harmful effects of stress on my health, have a problem, let alone treat it. alcohol and substance addiction. All more of us start fighting to feel better and The Serbian government and Prime the tech sector in a unique position in bile game developer Nordeus have, on an internship programme for foreign in more traditional Serbian companies. and Movember’s attempts to de-stigma- A recent WHO report estimates that of this is greeted with little surprise in admit our problems, we will not only Minister Ana Brnabic, who recently Serbia, given the country has, for many the other hand, began to court top pro- students and expanding the recruit- Both Grain and Zantvoort agree that tise these issues made me readier to ad- that at least 5 per cent of people in Serbia the media: many Serbs endure a daily make a difference to ourselves but also, Srdjan Garcevic is a writer and a said digitisation and science were Ser- years now, been an exporter of highly- fessionals, although last year’s Global ment of IT staff outside Serbia. the city itself is a good enough reason mit and tackle my own problems. suffer from depression, which is higher struggle to make a living, and many car- hopefully, change the current atmos- founder of The Nutshell Times blog. bia’s recipe for social development and skilled labour. Competitiveness Report by the World “People are interested in coming to to settle down in Belgrade, which they Not only did I get to read about the than the global average of about 4.4 per ry heavy scars from the wars and other phere, which not only tolerates but argu- economic growth, hope to direct more According to VOICT’s report, Serbia’s Economic Forum (WEF) ranked Serbia Serbia when you have something to praise for its wide range of cultural ac- depression and anxiety epidemic that cent. Serbia ranks 66th in terms of sui- major challenges present over the last ably encourages passivity in the face of The opinions expressed in the Com- people into the tech sector to consoli- tech sector now absorbs most Serbian sixth from last among 137 countries for offer them,” Pavicevic says, suggesting tivities, theatre and nightlife. “Belgrade is sweeping the world, but Movember’s cide rates globally, more than 40 places 30 years. issues like depression and anxiety. ment section are those of the authors date conditions for future growth. IT graduates in sharp contrast to the its ability to attract foreign talent. that competitive salaries, exciting pro- is big and you can find anything you promotions of physical activity, social- above the UK, with about two people However, although much of the un- With each Movember in Serbia, I only and do not necessarily re ect the Last year, the government launched considerable brain drain that blighted “Recruiting globally gives us access jects and a strong industry brand are want, except fresh coriander”, Zant- ising and medical check-ups provided taking their life each day on average. wellness in Serbia can be blamed on hope that more Serbians, and especial- views of BIRN. an IT retraining programme: a three the sector until just a few years ago. to people with unique experience and key to recruiting foreign talent. voort concludes. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 9 - November 22, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 9 - November 22, 2018 9 REGION FACES Armistice About town with… Life Lessons from Commemorations ANA NOVAKOVIC Neolithic Man Across Ex-Yugoslav Ana is a founder of the Food and Culture tour of Belgrade and the States Reveal Cultural onboard- ing programme, which helps new Different Views expats in Serbia make sense of, and cope with, the of WWI stress of change to their cultural land- scape. Celebrations – or in a new southern Slav state, Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes, which was lack of them – later renamed Yugoslavia. MORNING across the former SERBIA

Yugoslavia As a key player in World War I, Serbia My ideal mornings are spent at the Kalenic marking a is commemorating the centenary of the market. I first go to my favorite “ajvar” mer- end of the war with many events and ex- chant to buy my weekly dose and then head hundred years hibitions. towards Lebovski bakery (Marka Oreskovica The official celebrations started on 20), which has the tastiest bread, cut in since the end November 1, the day when Belgrade was perfect slices. Their staff are so nice that they of World War I liberated, with a special ceremony in Bel- let me crack open my ajvar and put it on the grade’s , which top officials bread on the spot. After a delicious start I reveal diverging and President Vucic attended. am ready to roam the market and enjoy the All schools dedicated their first les- seasonal goodies, compliments from elderly sons that day to this event, while officials memories of the Serbian government organised a series of events to mark the centenary of the country's victory in WWI. Photo: Beta ladies and occasional a whistle from the guys and ambassadors laid wreaths at the unloading potatoes. Mornings are even better conflict. Monument and Memorial Ossuary to ing the highly contentious union with saying it “contradicted the state tradition events will be held in those regions that the Defenders of Belgrade. Serbia in November 1918 that followed of Montenegro”. suffered most in the conflict. if my friend Bora is busking at the market: on Maja ZIVANOVIC, Dusica TOMOVIC, Politicians didn’t skip the chance to the end of World War I, and under which Serbian officials, including President Local officials and ambassadors are to those occasions I like to sit for a moment and Sinisa-Jakov MARUSIC, Mladen LAKIC, politicise the centenary, however. the former kingdom lost its independ- Vucic, condemned this decision, saying attend ceremonies held at war memori- enjoy his music, and the smiling crowds that Anja VLADISAVLJEVIC and On November 4, Serbian Foreign and ence. it prohibited people in Montenegro from als and in the capital, , gather around him. Belo Brdo in the Belgrade suburb of Vinca has been home to archaeologist Dragan Photo: Courtesy of Dragan Jankovic Jankovic for the past three decades. Srdjan GARCEVIC Defence ministers condemned France As a result, Montenegro is not doing “thinking differently and having a differ- and in the towns of Bitola, , Ku- for flying the of Kosovo – whose inde- much to mark the centenary, although ent view of the past”. manovo and in other places. AFTERNOON Archaeologist Dra- lapse of the former Yugoslavia made it MAN’S TRUE NATURE ountries around the world pendence Serbia does not recognise – in its troops participated on the Entente Macedonia is also taking part in the hard to earn a living. During this time, are preparing to commem- front of Notre Dame Cathedral, ahead of side and no official celebration at a state BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA First World War centenary commemora- Around midday, I head towards Impact HUB gan Jankovic has he worked as a fisherman on the Dan- Understanding the question of re- orate the hundredth anni- the November 11 ceremony. level is being held. tion, and other events took place in the (Makedonska 21), our co-working space. I ube. sponsibility is something Jankovic tries versary of the official end France, which does recognise Ko- On November 6, the Defence Minis- Although the assassination in Bosnia’s past few months. “I learned so much by living there, to impress upon visitors to Belo Brdo. either bike or stroll there with my dog, Luna: studied Vinca Cul- of World War I, known as sovo’s independence, hung the flag ter Predrag Boskovic recalled that while capital, Sarajevo, is commonly credited On October 1, Britain’s Prince Edward, exposed to this fascinating culture but “All those people who come to Vinca, I always try to find a different route through CArmistice Day, on November 11. together with those of other countries Montenegro had been on the side of the with starting the Great War, Bosnia is not younger son of Queen Elizabeth, visited also to the Danube. It is an amazing be they French, German or British, react the grid of streets in Dorcol – there are so ture for 30 years The centre of the global celebrations participating in the Armistice Day com- winners of the both world wars, no offi- marking the anniversary of the end of Macedonia on the monarch’s behalf as river. If you spend enough time on the in the same way and our need to under- will be in Paris, with more than 60 presi- memoration. cial celebration was deemed necessary. World War I, either. part of the centenary events. many options! Impact HUB is a very special and says modern river at some point it accepts you. I can’t stand what is universal in our nature be- dents of states and governments present As Serbian officials are normally “We celebrated Army Day on October The country’s three main communi- Along with ambassadors of other place for me for another reason: my grandfa- find any other words to explain this comes obvious. The notion that a man is at the events and at the French govern- barred from participating in any events 5 as a contribution to marking the victo- ties, Bosniaks, Serbs and Croats, disagree countries that took part in the Great War, ther worked his whole life for Radio Belgrade, man has much to phenomenon. And then you just know a wolf to another man [homo homini lu- ment-hosted Paris Peace Forum. where Kosovo state symbols are shown, ry in World War I. There will be no other sharply about the war and whether Prin- he attended a ceremony at the Common- which had one of its studios at the spot how to understand it, and benefit from pus est], which is imposed on us by popu- Global dignitaries hosted by the the ministers accused France of insult- celebration,” Boskovic said. cip was a liberator or a terrorist. Many wealth War Grave Cemetery in Skopje. where the hub currently stands. It is amaz- learn from this an- the gifts it offers,” he says. lar culture, does not really reflect our true French President Emanuel Macron ing the country. However, the resort town of Budva, Bosniaks and Croats see Princip as the On October 16, a museum exhibition ing to be in the same space with a new vibe nature. We have here a culture without include America’s President, Donald “The flag of a non-existent state at a run by pro-Serbian opposition parties, latter. called “Macedonia and the Macedoni- and emit new waves of creativity overflowing cient ancestor. NO WAR, NO HIERARCHY conflict, spreading from Transylvania Trump, Russia’s President, Vladimir Pu- gathering of countries participating in has organised a celebration of the lib- Bosnian Serb leader, Milorad Dodik, ans in the First World War” opened in Belgrade. to northern Macedonia and from cen- tin and German Chancellor Angela Mer- the First World War is a serious offence eration of the Boka Bay area, which until the newly elected Serbian member of Bitola. Milan RADONJIC In Jankovic’s opinion, Neolithic man tral Bosnia to central , with the kel. and mockery of both the victims and his- 1918 formed part of Austria-Hungary. Bosnian tripartite presidency, on No- The exhibition was part of an interna- EVENING was not at all primitive. same or similar objects and materials. Heads of states from the region will be tory,” Defence Minister It forms part of five days of events, vember 1 joined the commemorations in tional conference on the centenary of ive thousand years ago, on “On the contrary, they were quite able The people of Belo Brdo and the Vin- also be present, including the Serbian, told the Kurir daily. along with other gatherings, roundtables Belgrade, however. the end of World War I held in Bitola from the site of what is now the to fulfil all their needs. And I would like ca Culture had no cult of the hunter or I love to move! My evenings are normally Croatian and Kosovo Presidents, Alek- “Those who did it, violating all the and book promotions in other towns in Earlier this year, Foreign Minister Igor October 16 to 19. Belo Brdo (White Hill) local- to underline the difference between warrior, as they did not celebrate death, sandar Vucic, Kolinda Grabar-Kitarovic agreements and the rules adopted, did the Boka region, which will last until No- Crnadak was present at the celebration reserved for Bachata dancing. I either take ity in the Belgrade suburb real needs, and desires or cravings. Jankovic says. and Hashim Thaci, among others. so with the desire to make it impossi- vember 11. of the end of the First World War and at classes in Salsa studio Belgrade (Dobracina of Vinca, stood a flourishing There are also no discoveries [that pro- “On the contrary, they cherished life Although World War I looms large in ble for Serbia to attend Victory Day,” he The celebrations in Budva came un- the centenary of raising the Serbian flag 30a) or go to some of the dancing parties Fsettlement that was part of one of the vide any evidence] of wars, large scale and this is why the famous figurine of the the history of the former Yugoslav states, added. der a media spotlight after Montenegro in front of the White House. As in Montenegro and Bosnia, World that are held on multiple days of the week. I oldest known European civilisations - conflicts or even social stratifications,” Mother Goddess is one of the main sym- their approaches to commemorating Foreign Minister Ivica Dacic called the banned for Serbs, writer Matija Becko- Some minor events, such as the “After War I and its legacy remain a divisive is- love these little coves of other cultures in Bel- the Vinca Culture. It was discovered by he says. bols of Vinca Culture. It is a symbol of life. this landmark centenary differ due to decision of French authorities “a scan- vic, historians Cedomir Antic and Alek- the Great War” outdoor exhibition, de- sue in Croatia. grade: they allow to me feel as if I travelled the eminent Serbian archaeologist and “They used to make energy-efficient The Great Mother is not a symbol of dom- very diverging views of the past. dal”. sandar Rakovic and lawyer Dejan Mi- voted to the immediate post-war years, The country then formed part of miles away just by experiencing a certain academic Miloje Vasic back in 1908. houses made of mud bricks and wood, ination but a symbol of life and birth.” The shots fired by a young Bosnian At home, the Defence Ministry is lead- rovic, from entering Montenegro. are being held in Sarajevo between No- Austria-Hungary, so most Croats fought movement, sound or a word. Other evening Spread across 30 hectares, with ar- which had stoves that were made one In his opinion, humans have been in- Serb, Gavrilo Princip, in Sarajevo on June ing the plans to mark Armistice Day According to the daily Dan, they had vember 19 and December 18. on the side of the losing Central Powers, options are practicing Ashtanga Yoga with chaeological layers 10 metres in depth, with the floor, so they also had under- genious beings since the dawn of time 28 1914, killing the heir to the throne of across the country, which has been cel- been due to speak at an event hailing the Over 200 archive and multimedia ma- though some joined the Entente side un- Belo Brdo tells the unique story about floor heating. Just imagine that!” but he fears modern life has stripped Misa Mladenovic at First Belgrade Gymna- Austria-Hungary, are often described as ebrated as a national holiday since 2013. centenary of the Assembly in terials – pictures, maps and films togeth- der a newly formed Yugoslav legion. a prosperous Neolithic culture, profi- While keen to continue excavat- mankind of true contentment. sium (Cara Dusana 61) or working out at one the key event that sparked World War I. The ministry is organising exhibitions, December 1918, which united Montene- er with the stories of people who lived in The year 1918 also led to the loss of cient in trade and agriculture and also ing the area, which lies directly on the “Being inferior physically to the of the outdoor gyms (colloquially known as Princip fired twice at close range into music events, lessons, movies screen- gro to Serbia ahead of the formation of those times – present a complex picture Croatia’s old autonomy within Austria- in fishing and hunting. The abundance Danube river bank, he underlines they forces of nature, humans were able to the car carrying the Archduke Franz Fer- ings and book promotions through the the Yugoslav state. of the new Europe established after the Hungary, as the new Kingdom of Serbs, “sipke” – bars - in Serbian) with friends next of objects unearthed include ceramic must dig cautiously to avoid landslides. survive due to the unique ability to find dinand, and his wife, Sophie. whole year. In 2006, Montenegro split from Serbia, Great War. Croats and Slovenes soon adopted a to Danube: I love the casual conversations figurines, dishes, and hunting and ag- “The problem is that by digging and solutions for their needs. If this man Only 37 days later, Austria-Hungary It is also organising the military exer- following an independence referendum, centralised constitution. that occur there. ricultural tools, which confirm the set- making those vertical profiles, we are was primitive, we would not be here to- declared war on Serbia and a Europe- cise, “A century of Victors”, which started regaining its former independence. MACEDONIA Beside gatherings of historians on this tlement was long-lasting and part of a also destabilising the locality, and as day. On the contrary, humans of those wide conflagration began, claiming mil- on November 8 and will last until Armi- The celebration of the centenary of topic, Croatia will not mark the date in Although Belgrade is so vibrant and full of life culture that originally spread across the river bank is in the vicinity, we need times liberated their spirit and created lions of lives and prompting a commu- stice Day. Vulin told the media that 103 the unification of Serbia and Monte- Although one of the main theatres of any special way. and things to do, after going out for so many the Balkans seven millennia ago. to be extra careful about it.” all they needed. nist revolution in Russia, the fall of the tons of ammunition will be used during negro has tested diplomatic relations war stretched across its territory, Armi- Disconcertingly for some Croats, Ital- years I now have a “no-FOMO” [fear of miss- For the past three decades, Belo Brdo Jankovic is convinced that under- “A man that is free spirited is able to do German monarchy and the complete the events. between Serbia and Montenegro as the stice Day is not celebrated as a national ian neo-fascists rallied near the border in ing out] policy: these days, reading a book at has been home to archaeologist Dragan standing the Vinca’s values and way anything but also feels fulfilled and feels disintegration of Austria-Hungary. “About 8,000 members of the Serbian Montenegrin government insists that holiday in Macedonia. the Italian city of Trieste on November 3, home or walking with Luna next to the Dan- Jankovic, a curator at the Belgrade City of life is a means to understanding our blissful. What we have done is sacrificed The war ended with an armistice on Army, about 600 combat systems and 24 the Podgorica Assembly led to the “dis- This is because Macedonia did not ex- marking the centenary of the war, at the Museum which has jurisdiction of the modern-day selves. our fortune for the sake of comfort. This is ube are often my fondest evening activities. November 11, 1918, with the victory of the aircraft will participate in the biggest mili- appearance of Montenegro” as a state. ist as a state or combatant during World end of which had hoped to obtain Vinca archaeological site. He says that “We don’t understand ourselves of why I believe technology will never make Sometimes I sit on the Danube embankment Entente Powers, which by then included tary exercise in the past few years, which It has also condemned all proposed War I; Serbia had seized the territory from most of Dalmatia. learning about Vinca Culture and its today… those ancient fellow humans us happy. It is our inner self and the geni- in Dorcol and watch shining in the the US as well as France, Britain and Italy will be carried out on ten locations,” the celebrations of the centenary, which it the failing in 1912-13. On the other side of Trieste, more than people completely changed his life. of ours are really the essence of what us of humanity that we have to return to.” alongside smaller allies such as Serbia daily Vecernje Novosti reported. said dishonoured the memories of “all However, an estimated 200,000 Mac- 3,000 counter-protesters gathered un- distance or the dark shore of Borca across He first came across the Vinca as a we are. They are what remain when we and Romania. those in Montenegro who were killed edonians participated in the conflict on der the message “Free from all fascisms”. the water, and enjoy the peace this glorious student of archaeology while taking remove all the so-called technological The Vinca archaeological site is open Weeks after the Armistice day, on De- MONTENEGRO during the [Yugoslav] dictatorship, which various sides, in the armies of Serbia, The protests showed how divisive the river brings to Belgrade. Enjoying this scenery part in a local volunteering programme. progress. When you understand this, to the public, admission costs 200 dinars cember 1, 2018, Serbia and Montenegro began at the Podgorica Assembly”. and . war and its legacy remain in the Balkan is just as valuable to me as any memory of He became completely fascinated and you become aware of our responsibil- (1.5 euros). For opening hours, visit the united with parts of the former Habsburg Serbia’s smaller neighbour is much On October 26, the authorities in the Instead of a single Armistice Day cel- region, a century after the “guns fell si- sunsets around the world. Belgrade, you are even stayed during the 1990s – when ity towards the past but also towards Belgrade City Museum website: Empire – Slovenia, Croatia and Bosnia – more divided than Serbia over celebrat- town of Pljevlja banned one such event, ebration, a series of commemorative lent”. so easy to have a perfect day in. Thank you. the Balkan wars that marked the col- our future as a civilisation.” www.mgb.org.rs 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 9 - November 22, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 9 - November 22, 2018 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT

‘Owl-ember’ Belgrade in Kikinda Insight: Towers Over Serbia’s Sommelier’s The town of Kikinda, in north- east Serbia, is celebrating its corner many temporary owl resi- Turbulent History AHH…RIBA

dents by declaring the month

Where Else? Where Wine Corner Wine of November “Owl-ember” For a seafood (“Sovembar” in Serbian), as restaurant, the lack of it is around this time of year focus on whites was that they start arriving in the surprising. area. This migration makes Kikinda the largest winter Pavle GOLICIN refuge for long-eared owls in the world, and visitors can unny weather is calling easily see several hundred of back Mediterranean them dozing during the day flavours, so this time we decided to try our in the town’s trees. Kikinda’s S luck with the seafood gourmet owls and their habitat are cruise on the Ahh… Riba fish protected by law, so do not restaurant. attempt to disturb them. The wine list includes seventy-ish labels, excluding When in Kikinda, you can a special section dedicated also check out Terra – an arts to the “magnificent nine” (as centre focusing on pottery, is written in the list), which located in a disused brick consists of the usual highly- factory, or pop over to Gen- priced suspects, showing off such wines as Piedmont’s erala Drapsina street, which Gaja, Super Tuscans, left bank is often listed as one of the Bordeaux, etc. About a quarter prettiest in the world for its of the labels are local, coupled avenue of twisting trees. with well-known and estab- lished producers from the region, namely Croatia, Mac- ‘Slava’ it up in Lucani edonia and Slovenia. The rest is first and foremost focused The “slava”, or patron saint’s on Italy and, to some extent, on day celebration, is a ma- French wines. Despite some spelling mis- jor part of Serbian culture takes, the list is easy to grasp, and tradition and is widely with labels listed by price, from celebrated by families, vil- least to most expensive. How- lages and even companies to ever, the focus should be more on white wines, having in mind express gratitude for saintly that Ahh…Riba is a seafood res- protection. The Feast Day of taurant. This is especially the St Demetrius, called Mitro- case for the above-mentioned vdan in Serbian, is one of the “magnificent nine”, which are more common slavas and on all red. Only a dozen labels are available by the glass, but at Saturday, November 10 you Avala’s Monument to the Unknown Soldier was built of the site of the ancient Zrnov fortress. Photo: Fabian Vendrig least these are different grape can see it celebrated in Vica, varieties, so you can find easily a village in the municipality Easy reachable from Otherwise, take No 401, 403, 405 or with full military honours on Avala the plane crashed on Avala killing 33 your favourite – and for me it 408 from Vozdovac to the Avala stop and marked the grave with a cross people, including several high-ranking of Lucani, some three hours’ was Viognier. Ahh... Riba is located in the very heart of Belgrade, above Obilicev venac. Photo: Courtesy of Ahh… Riba and climb for 20 to 30 minutes via a bearing an inscription in German: “One officers such as the Soviet Marshall Biri- Viognier is a grape vari- drive south of Belgrade. Belgrade, the history well-maintained asphalt path. If you unknown Serbian soldier”. According usov who had commanded the troops ety that needs sunshine and Beside the religious celebra- of this much-loved calculate the time well, you can catch to records, the uniformed boy had no that had liberated Belgrade. The site whose profile includes rich tions, this will be a chance to the sunset while enjoying the beauti- identification. In his pockets they only of the crash was marked with a monu- flavors of apricot and peach mountain encom- and plenty of body. I chose see folk music and dances, ful 360-degree panorama at the same found ammunition and a few coins. ment in the form of a broken wing. It and try local specialities, Montagne Noire by Jean passes thousands time. In 1936, Serbia started building the can be reached by the road leading to Michel Cazes, a wine from the Fishy Moments in Ahh… Riba including the pork roasts and If you decide to visit, here are the current monument, which was fin- the top. Languedoc-Roussillon region “rakija” (plum brandy) for of years of human main sites to check out, as well as high- ished in 1938. It was the work of the in the south of France. Named which this region is famous. endeavour and con- lights from Avala’s long and interesting famous Croat sculptor Ivan Mestrovic TV TOWER PERISHES IN after the black mountain A recent addition feel a little strange before we had even topus, cherry tomatoes and eggplant. If be applied to the service. The staff was The celebration begins history. and was made in Split using Jablanica KOSOVO CONFLICT (montagne noire in French), set foot inside. it was homemade, the pasta was prob- friendly, and perhaps even a little too as it grows in its foothills, this around 10 am and lasts until granite from the left bank of the Ner- The interior is a mish-mash of styles. ably dried out improperly, as it was un- friendly at some moments, yet a little flict, from Neolithic wine is a little lighter and to the capital’s late afternoon. times to the Kosovo OTTOMANS EYE BELGRADE etva river. Construction of the tower on Avala crisper than expected, which We were not sure if this was done with even with lumps and chewy pieces. rigid at others. The attentiveness and FROM FORTRESS The new monument had to depict started in 1962 and was finished in 1965 gives additional elegance and modest array of no professional hand involved, or with Amberjack fillet Sicilian style, efficiency of the service varied as well. Get Jazzy in war. the heroism and sacrifice of the sol- with the installation of transmitters for freshness. Very dry, minerally too many of them. Guests can choose cooked with cherry tomatoes, olives, The pricing is unusual and could On the site of the Roman fortifica- diers but also the idea of new South radio and television signals. The tower and harmonious, this Viognier fish restaurants of- between two different rooms, an oyster capers and red onions was interesting mislead some diners. From the menu, th tions the Zrnov fortress and mining Slavic state, formed after World War I. was the highest structure in the Bal- was a perfect companion to bar and a classic restaurant. At the time but overcooked – the structure of the one might conclude that this is one of Novi Sad’s 20 Jazz festival the seafood we ordered. Fabian VENDRIG settlement emerged during the Mid- The guardians of the unknown hero kans and became a landmark not only of our visit, which was lunchtime on a flesh resembling a stew rather than a the most expensive restaurants in Bel- is taking place between Ahh…Riba also offers a fered slightly un- November 15 and 17, at the dle Ages. It survived until the Otto- are the mute mothers, represented by for Belgrade but for the whole of Yugo- house wine. This is a practice weekday, we were the only guests. fresh fish fillet. grade, while our bill at the end proved he 511-meter-high Avala mans conquered this part of Serbia in eight huge statues, each weighing over slavia. On April 23, 1999, however, the We started with two different fish We were left feeling disappointed that this is not actually the case. Serbian National Theatre that I appreciate very much, even mains – but mountain and tower can 1442. The Ottomans then made it their 12 tonnes, whose heads support the tower was destroyed by NATO bombs. but it was below standard. I pates: one red, which was infused with by our mains, so the exquisite desserts We left with mixed feelings; one im- (Srpsko Nardono Pozoriste). be seen from many parts stronghold from where they could con- roof of the huge monument. They are In 2004, Serbian state television, RTS, tried the white and it was short the desserts are to tomato; the other green, with pesto. They came as a surprise. The fig cake turned pression was certainly of confusion. The festival will feature major of Belgrade and its sur- quer Belgrade itself, which was the last dressed in the national costumes of the started a fundraising event to rebuild and misbalanced, and not at were served with toasted bread and dark to be an excellent, modern, nicely con- This restaurant surely has a lot to of- international acts such as the roundings. For travellers, obstacle preventing their further con- various regions of former Yugoslavia it. Reconstruction started in 2006 and all well priced especially given olives typical of the coast of Montenegro trasted composition of a couple of mas- fer. We hope they focus on clearing up the quality. die for. New York-based saxophon- TAvala is a point of recognition, because quests in Central Europe. – Sumadija, Croatia, Slovenia, Monte- finished four years later. and were both enjoyable, the tomato carpone cream scoops, aromatic cara- their concept and making every seg- ist Seamus Blake, as well Service in Ahh…Riba is aver- they know that Belgrade is not far away Avala took its name from the Otto- negro on the western side and Macedo- The tower is open to the public and age. Wines are served in Riedel pate being the better of the two. melized figs, crumble and fresh mint ment of the dining experience a little as a performance by Marco then. mans: havale in Turkish means a high, nia, Bosnia, Dalmatia and on super-fast elevators bring you to the glasses, which is above the Duda Belgrade seafood restaurants are leaves. Apple crumble pie served with more consistent. Pignataro of Boston’s Berklee What many people do not know dominating spot, which is what Avala the eastern side. 122-meter-high observation deck or usual for Belgrade restaurants. mostly orientated towards Mediter- vanilla ice cream was truly fantastic, Global Jazz Institute. Another is that the mountain’s inhabited his- was for the Ottomans. When the Otto- Traces of damage are clearly visible to the 119-meter-high coffee bar. From The mark-up is very high. or serious seafood lovers, ranean cooking. Ahh… Riba steps out and it would be worth visiting this res- AHH… RIBA highlight will be Jumbo Big tory dates back before Roman times. mans under Sultan Suleiman the Mag- on the monument, which many believe here you have a beautiful 360-degree Ahh…Riba offers limited va- what’s offered in the Belgrade of that frame, offering both Mediterra- taurant just to taste it. Who would have Address: Obilicev venac 27/2, riety by the bottle at the lower Archaeological findings show the nificent finally conquered Belgrade in resulted from NATO bombs dropped panoramic view. When it is clear, you restaurant scene is a little nean and Asian fish specialties, so we thought that one of the best apple pies Phone: +381 11 2620442, Bang concert, which will take price end, and no choice at place on Saturday night. This caves were inhabited way back 1521, Avala lost its importance for them. in the Kosovo conflict in 1999. This is a can see the whole Belgrade area in- the mid or higher levels by the limited, so we are always decided to mix things up with our start- in town is served here? Price Guide: 2200-3200 dinars will unite Big Band orches- in the Neolithic era, which lasted Meanwhile, Zrnov remained inhab- myth. The damage was caused during cluding the confluence of the Sava and glass. Maybe the target group curious to discover new sea- ers, ordering some sushi and tataki. Cal- We found the atmosphere in Ahh… per person for three courses without roughly from 7,000 to 1700 BC. ited until the 18th century, when it was the Second World War. The monument the Danube near the Kalemegdan fort. of the restaurant is setting the Ffood places around town. This time we ifornia rolls with tuna fish, cucumber Riba a little strange and the same can drinks tras playing for Slovenian, Croatian and Serbian national During these times, the Vinca culture finally abandoned. In 1934, it was de- still stands. At the entrance of the path Further on the horizon you can see the standards, but I would love to visited Ahh… Riba, a restaurant in the and cream cheese turned to be a very started to exploit the cinnabar mines of cided that the ancient fortress should leading towards the monument lies the hills of Fruska Gora, the town of Vrsac, see other possibilities for bet- centre of the city, in the pedestrian zone good choice, while tataki – Japanese broadcasters under Austrian ter combining food and wine Suplja Stena, which is just below Avala. make way for a monument to the Avala hotel and restaurant, which was near the Romanian border, Valjevo around Obilicev venac. carpaccio with salmon in Ponzu sauce, ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ conductor Siegfried Feigl. before paying another visit. When the Romans came, they built a unknown hero of World War I. After built in 1931 in an unusual style. You can and central Serbia. You can see the The dining area occupies the second sprinkled with sesame seeds and wa- ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” Beside the main programme fortification with high walls to defend three days of mining, ordered by King walk around the monument, take the unique position of Belgrade between floor of a neo-classical building, typi- tercress, was a little pale in terms of fla- there will be a number of RESTAURANT KOVAČ this settlement. Since those ancient Aleksander, the Zrnov fortress was de- stairs and see the huge eight mothers the hills and mountains of central Ser- Basic Info Rating cal of the city centre. The entrance on vour as well as in terms of structure of workshops, exhibitions and modern ethno restaurant times, Avala has played an important stroyed. from close by and enjoy the view. bia and the in Vojvo- the ground floor leads straight to the the flesh. smaller concerts around the role in the region’s history and, on the dina with the Sava and Danube rivers elevator and the guests are escorted Fried red mullets were very nice – Overall AVERAGE city before and during the way, became a beloved hiking destina- FORT MAKES WAY FOR MONUMENT TO acting as a natural border between the by a hostess who tells the story of the crunchy, with a gentle, sweet aroma, festival. More information is tion, too. MESTROVIC MONUMENT VICTIMS OF AIR CRASH two. Wine selection GOOD restaurant: the owners opened their which is specific to this fish. The chives available on novisadjazzfes- The best way to reach Avala is by car, Since October, new decorative Wine service AVERAGE Belgrade restaurant after years of hav- mayonnaise and the sweet and sour tival.rs. Tickets are on sale which takes less than half an hour from The first “monument to the unknown On October 19, 1964, Soviet war veter- lights have been installed, so the tower Wine pricing €20 – €355 ing their own fishing boat and running sauce served on the side tended to and cost 900 dinars (7 euros) Belgrade. The top is reachable by car. hero” was ironically constructed by the ans flew an Aeroflot plane to Belgrade is even more visible. The a successful restaurant in Montenegro… overwhelm the aroma, so they might for individual evening pro- You can park right there. Another route occupying Germans in 1915, following to celebrate the 20th anniversary of is open daily during winter from No- There is nothing wrong with this story, better have been left out. Wine and AVERAGE Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 grammes, and 2,400 dinars is by bus. From May 1 to August 31, a di- their battle with Serbian forces. They the Soviet role in the liberation of Bel- vember 1 to March 31 from 9am until but the combination of the ambience We expected more from our pasta www.restorankovac.com (20 euros) for all three days. rect bus runs to the top, No 400. buried an unknown Serbian soldier grade in autumn 1944. Unfortunately, 4pm. food pairing and the conduct of the staff made us Norma, homemade tagliatelle with oc- 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 9 - November 22, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 9 - November 22, 2018 13 EXPATS' CORNER ARTS

Class War Art at Ostavinska Gallery Learning Serbian: ‘Tough but Useful’ On Friday, November 9, the Ostavinska Gallery (Kraljevica Marka 8) will be organizing a group exhibition, Art at a Time

Arts in brief of Class War, which represents works put together by mostly young art historians and curators collaborating with young and emerging local artists. Entrance is free. Musical Drama Celebrates Kosovo Serb Culture The Traditional Cultural and Artistic Society , from Leposavic in northern Kosovo, is celebrating 20 years of work in Kosovo and , with a spectacular music and drama performance, Return to the Origin, at Sava Centre (Milentija Popovica 9) on Saturday, Novem- ber 10, starting at 8 pm. Tickets cost 800 dinars (7 euros). Piotr Anderszewski plays Bach at Kolarac After ten long years, the celebrated Polish pianist Piotr This year’s festival starts off strong, with Hirokazu Kore-eda’s Shoplifters, which won the Palme d’Or in Cannes. Photo: Still from Shoplifters (Manbiki Kazoku) Anderszewski will be playing in Belgrade once again. This time, the much admired interpreter of Bach will play Well-Tempered Clavier, Book 2, as well as Movies Not to Miss at Beethoven’s Diabelli Variations, op 120. Tickets for the concert, on November 10 at 8pm at Auteur Film Festival the Ilija M Kolarac Endowment (Studentski Trg 5), cost from 900 dinars (8 euros) to 1,200 dinars (10 euros). From Godard and and received accolades from critics ticipated on festival rosters. This year’s the utopian spirit of 1968 Yugoslavia. and audiences alike. This crime drama Auteur Film Festival has a special na- The poster is a reinterpretation of the LP Duo at Lasciar Kore-eda to Serbia’s from the Tokyo suburbs was some- tional premiere, The Load, by Ognjen famous photo still from Zelimir Zilnik’s Vibrare festival thing of a surprise winner at Cannes Glavonic, which premiered this year in iconic film Early Works. own Ognjen Glavon- but is considered the best movie in Cannes, in the Director’s Fortnight cate- This year’s edition of the Auteur Film As part of the festival of con- ic, Belgrade’s annual Kore-eda’s long and fruitful career. gory of the festival, and delivered quite Festival will include more venues than temporary art and electronic Shoplifters won’t be the only Cannes- an emotional punch. The director’s ever. The main festival venue is Kom- music, Lasciar Vibrare, the LP art-house film festival favored heavyweight, as festival selec- first feature-length film is set in 1999 in bank Hall (Decanska 14), and movies Duo – consisting of pianists Parisian Greg Horvat, was brought to Serbia by the desire to explore the country his father was born, and decided to learn the local language. Photo: Courtesy of Greg Horvat Sonja Loncar and Andrija is bringing the best tors made sure to include many films Yugoslavia, and centres on a couple of will be screened at Dom Omladine Pavlovic – will play their unique that shook the cinema world in 2017 truck drivers transporting a top-secret (Makedonska 22) and in the theatre of piano compositions, once again Foreigners learning transitional justice in Bosnia and things that make a culture a culture,” distributer for a number of Serbian beginners,” be it high school students global and regional and 2018. Belgrade audiences will get load. the Belgrade Cultural Centre (Kolarce- crossing the boundaries of the Herzegovina. Several years after his Mitjo explained. restaurants, hotels, gas stations and who wish to study in Belgrade, adults to see the new film by Jean-Luc Godard, Another noteworthy film from ex- va 6), the city’s classic arthouse venue. instrument itself. The concert on Serbian agree it’s very first visit, he is also fluent in “Otherwise, you are always an coffee shops. He soon decided to who came to live and work in the films to the city. The Image Book, a gloomy, doomy and Yugoslav territory comes from Nikola Other venues include the Yugoslav November 14 at Studentski Grad Serbian – a product of intense language outsider.” launch a business in a similar line and a Serbian capital, or those who have at times frightening take on the world of Mijovic and Vlastimir Sudar. Borders, Film Archive (Uzun Mirkova 1), Stu- Cultural Centre (Bulevar Zorana exhausting and classes both in Bosnia and Serbia. Mitjo opted for an intense Serbian few months ago Horvat co-opened two family roots in Serbia and wish to learn David GALIC today. Raindrops is a gorgeously shot, atmos- dentski Grad Cultural Centre (Bulevar Djondjica 179) is free. He has lived in both Sarajevo and language course with lessons for five small shops at Belgrade markets, Svet their ancestors’ mother tongue. After Son of Saul, Laszlo Nemes pheric film about love, longing and Zorana Djindjica 179), Fontana Movie th ‘Magical Milena’ Open time-consuming, Belgrade and has a Bosnian girlfriend hours a day, five days a week. No matter Ukusa, that sell French products such “Working with students who have he 24 annual Auteur Film comes back with a haunting follow-up, hope, set high up among barren and Theatre (Pariske Komune 13), Paro- at Grujic House so he practices the language on a daily how demanding it might be, Mitjo says as cheese. never learned any Serbian before is the Festival is just around Sunset, a period mystery drama set in harsh mountains looming above the brod – Dragan Nikolic Theatre (Kapetan but absolutely basis. Mitjo argues that getting to know it “is an extremely good way to get Even if he’s spent more than three most demanding job,” Ilic told BIRN. the corner, starting on pre-World War I . . The film premiered at the Misina 6a), Art Cinema (Studentski Trg Earlier this week, a new exhibi- the local language – also referred to as started”. years in Serbia, Horvat started learning “It is not easy to design the road you November 23 in theatres A favorite of Belgrade audiences, Montreal Film Festival, where the au- 5) and Vlada Divljan Cultural Centre tion opened at the Jevrem Grujic necessary to Bosnian-Croatian-Serbian, or simply the local language about six months have to take in order to transfer the across the city. As far as Gaspar Noe, chimes in with Climax, dience received it very positively. This (Mitropolita Petra 8). House (Svetogorska 17) featuring BCS – was a turning point in his life and STUDYING SERBIAN ago. He did so to ease his life in the peculiarities and rules of the Serbian Tcinema goes, along with FEST, is is the a musical horror that is just as unset- Montenegrin-Bosnian co-production Tickets are available at all the venues the works of one of Serbia’s most immerse yourself in career. ‘OPENED MY EYES’ Serbian capital. language to a foreigner and to be sure most important film event of the year tling and exciting as one would expect features a very young cast, many of and prices are, as usual, quite afford- famed painters, Milena Pavlovic- “If you want to focus on the region, “Serbians speak English well but he or she understands them correctly.” in Belgrade, bringing together eager au- from the controversial French film- whom have never appeared on film able, ranging from 150 to 300 dinars (1.5 Barili, entitled Magical Milena. the local culture. The exhibition showcases more you need to know the language. It He soon realised how his life in the still it is useful to know the language Another challenge is a classroom diences and filmmakers in a week-long maker. before. to 3 euros). Make sure to get your tickets than 40 painting, including self- was necessary for me so I could do Balkans started to change for the better. because of work, friends and life here in full of students coming from different celebration of all things cinema. As Serbian cinema gains more prom- Even the visual identity of the festi- in advance as some of the movies are portraits, portraits of her family, my research,” concludes Mitjo, who In terms of Mitjo’s thesis, learning the general,” Horvat says. language families, as it is impossible to This year’s festival starts off strong, inence on the international scene, na- val this year is very regional and some- likely to be sold out. For a look at the friends, famous Serbs of the time Ivana NIKOLIC also works as a freelance journalist for local language did him the world of However, it is not that easy, he says, as offer the same explanations to a group with Hirokazu Kore-eda’s Shoplifters, tional productions and co-productions what “Yugo-nostalgic,” designed by Ves- complete programme, visit the festi- and more. The exhibition is open Belgrade Insight and is based in the good - he was now able to understand his mother tongue differs from Serbian consisting of such a mixed group of which won the Palme d’Or in Cannes are becoming more present and an- na Pesic Becha with the intent to reflect val’s official website: https://faf.rs/. until the end of March. itjo Vaulasvirta, a Serbian capital. everyday conversations anywhere in a lot in accents and pronunciation. people, Ilic continues. 30-year-old Finn, has But his PhD research was not the only public, on the streets and in coffee shops. “I definitely need to practice more. I “For instance, a Slovenian will simply always been curious reason Mitjo decided to start learning He could also access all the local do understand more than I can speak understand our case system, adjectives about the Balkans. Serbian in the summer of 2015. media and his new skill “opened my as I still know few words,” Horvat and pronouns, while speakers of non- He first came to Apart from the opportunity to eyes about things I didn’t know”. admits, adding that another burden are Indo-European such as Mthe region for a summer break when make new friends and to ease existing His relationship with people got the Serbian letters č, ć, š, đ, ž, dž. Turks, Japanese and Indians will have he was 16 and then, several years later, friendships, he also wanted to be able better as speaking in English made “Business-wise, it is also important an extremely hard time,” Ilic says. took up South-East European Studies to follow daily life fully. some of them uncomfortable, to know the language. I love living here Horvat and Vaulasvirta agree that as a minor while studying for his “I wanted to be able to get jokes, to stressed and not able to express their and even if I still don’t know whether I cases are a particularly challenging bachelor degree back home in Helsinki. have local friends, to become part of own personalities. Now that they’ve will live here forever, I hope one day my part of the language. His love for the Balkans didn’t, the culture and to understand what’s switched to Serbian, the burden has Serbian will be fluent,” Horvat says. “French has no cases, so for me that however, end there. Mitjo is currently happening in politics. Actually, I been put on Mitjo as he has to “use 100 is difficult and sometimes confusing, finishing his PhD thesis about wanted the ability to follow all those per cent of my brain capacity to have a TEACHING CHALLENGES that especially goes for dativ [one out of regular conversation”. seven cases],” Horvat explains. Despite the fact that learning a new However, it is not only students who Vaulasvirta also has difficulties with language is “stressful, exhausting and have a hard time learning Serbian. the case system as “memorising all the time-consuming”, it is crucial if your Sitting on the other side of the rules and learning to apply them properly focus is regional studies and if you see teaching desk can be equally hard, takes a lot of time and brain power”. your future there, Mitjo says. underlines Valentina Ilic from Belgrade Another feature students find Another expat, Parisian Greg Horvat, University’s Faculty of Philology. difficult is glagolski vid - the fact that was brought to Serbia by the desire to Ilic works as a teaching assistant at a verb can have both a finished and explore the country his father was born the Department for Serbian with South unfinished form. “That is also difficult in. Horvat moved to Belgrade in 2015. Slavonic Languages and has also spent to explain,” Ilic says. “I quickly decided to stay because several semesters teaching Serbian to Vaulasvirta says he also finds it hard the culture is nice, people are friendly, foreigners at her faculty’s Centre for to remember two versions of every and the lifestyle is so different from that Serbian as a Foreign Language and at the single verb. But even if he fails to correct in France,” the 34-year-old told BIRN. International Centre for Slavic Studies. them properly, it is not a big issue as Horvat first worked as an importer She explains she has mostly worked “people still get what you want to say, so of French bakery products and a with students who are “absolute it is not really a crucial thing”. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 9 - November 22, 2018 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 9 - November 22, 2018 15 GOING OUT WHAT'S ON Belgrade’s Best-kept Kafana Secrets CLUBBING Forget the city- while the restaurant’s rustic interior and live acoustic music set the mood centre tourist traps on weekend evenings, when the place comes alive at 9pm. Kafanica AND LIVE MUSIC and dance, sing, eat specializes is dishes cooked ispod saca – under the bell. You can’t go and drink the night wrong with their slow-cooked veal and FRIDAY NOVEMBER 09 • James Brown Begrade Tribute, • No Sleep Festival, different way in these lesser- tender potatoes. Table reservations are Soul Society, Knez Miletina 2, locations necessary. • Galija, Sava Center, Milentija 10pm Popovica 9, 8.30pm • Buc Kesidi, Kvaka 22, Ruzveltova FRIDAY NOVEMBER 16 KOLARAC known haunts of LM • Peter Murphy, Hangar, Zorza 39, 10pm (BORIVOJA STEVANOVICA 4) Klemensoa 39, 9pm • Change with Us, Transit Nouveau, • Bisera Valetanlic, Gabi Novak, the capital. • Fish in Oil, Club Akademija 28, Brace Krsmanovic 8, 11.30pm Matija Dedic, Vasil Hadzimanov, PROGRAMME Nemanjina 28, 10pm • Sharif Laffrey, Club 20/44, Usce Komvank Dvorana, Decanska 14, In the leafy suburb of Medakovic, • Sara Renar + Egret, Elektropionir, bb, 11pm 8pm this kafana is going strong after 30 Cetinjska 15, 8.30pm • Vinilijada, Drugstore, Bulevar • Hornsman Coyote, Studentski Mitjo VAULASVIRTA years. Named after the first letters of • Beti Djordjevic & Jazz Friends, Despota Stefana 115, 10pm Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar the names of the owner’s daughters, Soul Society, Knez Miletina 2, 10pm • Cherry on Top, Dot, Francuska 6, Zorana Djindjica 179, 8pm rom the tourist traps of the Lana and Masa, LM caters to a • Belgrade Funk Combo, Strogi 11pm • Masa Garibija Trio, Soul Society, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 9 Ivana Srbljan, mezzosoprano Dejan Maksimilijan Vrbancic, tenor once-Bohemian to local lunch and dinner crowd on Centar, Gospodar Jevremova 43, • Mladen Ukraden & SOMII, Drinciceva 1, 10pm Concert Hall, 8pm Jaka Mihelac, baritone rollicking street-corner bars weekdays but packs a full house 10pm Kaldrma Bar, Skadarska 40, 8pm • Death squad metal fest, • Metallica Black Tribute, Club • Sonja Sajzor's Hip Hop & RnB Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 8.30pm Belgrade Philharmonic: Wisdom Programme: G. Rossini in the far-end of Medakovic, of young and old kafana-goers on Fabrice Bollon RSD 400, 500, 600 Fest, Gradski park 2, 10pm Night, Grad Cultural Center, Brace • Macha Ghariban Trio, Soul Conductor: Admission: F Alina Pogostkina, violin Soloist: Belgrade is packed with kafanas – Fridays and Saturdays between 9pm • Change with Us, Transit Nouveau, Krsmanovica 4, 11pm Society, Knez Miletina 2, 10pm Programme: R. Wagner, P. Vasks, D. FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 16 traditional restaurants or cafes – which and 2.30am. LM offers a wide menu , Club Fest, Brace Krsmanovic 8, 11.30pm • Freedom Fighters, Imago CUK, • Rainy Underground Shostakovich makes choosing the right one a task featuring classic Serbian dishes. Try • Terence Fixmer, Remco Decanska 14, 11pm Gradski park 2, 10pm Production: Belgrade Philharmonic Concert Hall, 8pm requiring painstaking consideration. To their hearty herb-packed pork stew Beekwilder, Drugstore, Bulevar • Fake Casual, Zaokret, Cetinjska • Linkin Park Tribute, Bozidarac, More information on +381 11 2630 744 Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra: make the job of finding your next go-to- (muckalica), which is among the best Despota Stefana 115, 11pm 15, 7pm Radoslava Grujica 3, 8pm Love 2 spot easier, here are five lesser known in town. And don’t let the white table • BombON, Dot, Francuska 6, 11pm • Saturday Fever, Brankow, • No Sleep Festival, different SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 10 Conductor: Daniel Raiskin • Kristijan Molnar All Night Long, Crnogorska 12, 11pm locations Soloist: Milan Savic, saxophone kafanas for long nights of feasting, cloths fool you – this is a place to sing Club 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm • Regis & Little Lu, Secer Club, • Midnight Orient w/ As Smooth Music Gallery, 6pm Programme: P. I. Tchaikovsky, S. dancing, and singing with insight tips and dance. • Luka & Sima, Kaldrma Bar, Svetogorska 17, 11pm As & Yves Taquet (Goulash Do You Love Brahms Prokofiev, I. Brkljacic from our kafana-loving editorial board. Skadarska 40, 8pm • Nebojsa Intruder, Ludost Bar, Disko), Grad Cultural Center, Anja Ovaskainen & Kata Stojanovic, Production: Belgrade STARO BURENCE • Mystic Stylez: Dis Fig with Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm Brace Krsmanovica 4, 11pm violines, Philharmonic MORNAR (STRMA 2) Feloneezy & Jackie Dagger, • Cojke, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva • BombON, Dot, Francuska 6, 11pm Pavle Popovic, cello More information: +381 11 2630 Aleksandar Lazovic, clarinet 744 (DECANSKA 2) Grad Cultural Center, Brace 44, 11pm Krsmanovica 4, 11pm • Disco Night, Gajba, Karadjordjeva SATURDAY NOVEMBER 17 Uki Ovaskainen, piano Kafanas are hard to miss in Music Centre SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 17 • Jadranin, Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, 7pm 44/2, 11pm Production: In this centrally located yet easily the riverside neighbourhood of Admission free • Bucalo, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, 7pm • Chorbika, Nixon, Misarska 7, 9pm • Mikri & Bvana, Elektropionir, th missed restaurant, the crowd of white- Gardos, but a favourite Friday-night 140 ANNIVERSARY OF KOLARAC • City of Vice, Brankow, Crnogorska • Sleparenje, Srtafta Club, Admirala Cetinjska 15, 10pm FOUNDATION bearded seafarer types matches drinking spot for many Zemunites Concert Hall, 8pm 12, 11pm Geprata 14, 10.30pm • Bisera Valetanlic, Gabi Novak, BEMUS Reflections Concert Hall, 11am the maritime-themed decor, which is the jam-packed yet intimate Staro • Dance 90s, Secer Club, Matija Dedic, Vasil Hadzimanov, Ceremony and Annual Awards Gradimir is a hidden gem for lovers of folk music. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic Piotr Anderszewski, piano features a wooden ship’s wheel and burence. Under its low barrel-vault Svetogorska 17, 11pm SUNDAY NOVEMBER 11 Komvank Dvorana, Decanska 14, Programme: J.S. Bach, L. van The best young artist in 2017, in captain’s hat. A place for an extended ceiling, rakija flows, tamburasi (folk • Timbe & Iron, Gajba, 8pm Beethoven, A. Webern collaboration with UMUS • Rastko Obradovic Quartet, lunch or boozy dinner, Mornar has a GRADIMIR cloths on which they serve immense KAFANICA musicians) play, and new (drunken) Karadjordjeva 44/2, 11pm • Hayvanlar Alemi & The Cyclist Production: CEBEF Filip Tomic, cello • Wankelmut, Hype, Karadjordjeva Conspiracy, Grad Cultural Center, Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, Admission: RSD 900, 1200 Jovana Radovanovic, piano very reasonably priced menu and is portions of grilled meat. To ensure a friends are made. While Staro burence (CARA NIKOLAJA 67) (KNEZA VIŠESLAVA 66) 46, 11pm Brace Krsmanovic 4, 9pm Studentski trg 11, 8pm Admission free known for cooked and grilled house long rakija-fumed and folk music – does not serve hot food, generous • Dijana Malnar, Nixon, Misarska 7, • Miodrag Stosic & Grbave Tange, • My Baby, Dom Omladine, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 11 specialties that range from 300 to 500 Tucked away in a basement at a narodnjaci – tuned night of feasting This whimsically and colourfully plates of mezes can be ordered from 9pm Soul Society, Knez Miletina 2, 9pm Makedonska 22, 9pm Concert Hall, 8pm dinars. Try their homemade ajvar and Crveni Krst courtyard, Gradimir is a and singing, reservations are decorated kafana is a gem hidden the bar and will sustain you through • Beyond 2000, Srtafta Club, • Freedom Fighters After Party, • Moussaka, Polet, cetinjska 15, 9pm Concert Hall, 11am Wiener Kammersymphonie Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Chamber () nowadays hard-to-find aspic; they bona fide kafana decorated with old recommended on weekends. While up in the Kosutnjak forest. Kafanica’s a night of singing and shoulder-to- Admirala Geprata 14, 10.30pm Imago CUK, Decanska 14, 5.30am • Slonz, Kvaka 22, Ruzveltova 39, • As Smooth As, Ljubimac, 10pm Music String Quintet make excellent starters for Mornar’s photographs of Belgrade and packed currently undergoing renovation, tree-covered backyard garden, where shoulder dancing. To get a spot in the Do You Love Brahms G. Mahler, E. Krenek, SATURDAY NOVEMBER 10 Cetinjska 15, 7pm • Osmi Dan, Club Fest, Gradski park Programme: famous cooked tripe, or the stuffed with long wooden tables topped Gradimir is scheduled to reopen in chickens roam free, is a cosy lunch “barrel”, call a day or two in advance Aneta Ilic, soprano, Magdalena Einem, Korngold • Por Que No, Mr. Stefan Braun, 2, 10pm chicken rolls. with red-and-white checkerboard late November. spot on sunny autumn afternoons, to reserve a table. Szczepanowska, violin Admission: RSD 500, 700 • Quasaborn, Dom Omladine, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Consecration & Wolfram, Bostjan Lipovsek, horn, Uki Makedonska 22, 8pm Bozidarac, Radoslava Grujica 3, Ovaskainen, piano TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 20 • Nikola Pejakovic Kolja, Kombank MONDAY NOVEMBER 12 8pm Production: Music Centre Dvorana, Decanska 14, 8.30pm • No Sleep Festival, different Admission free Music Gallery, 6pm Brit Floyd Bring No Sleep Festival • Sver, Club Akademija 28, • Above Balkan RnB, Mr. Stefan locations Ragazza MIX /All Women Nemanjina 28, 10pm Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Autarkic live, Grad Cultural Concert Hall, 8pm Composers Concert Rock Legends to Life Takes Over Belgrade • Gile and Magic Bush, Fest Club, Center, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 11pm Cycle: Artist & Editor visit Carollina Better, flute Gradski park 2, 10pm TUESDAY NOVEMBER 13 • Saturday Fever, Brankow, Uki Ovaskainen, piano Goska Isphording, harpsichord ink Floyd dissolved long ago but remain remembered major music event takes place during the weekend of No- • Besne Gliste – Wops – Sicksoul, Crnogorska 12, 11pm Guests: Katarina Jovanovic, soprano, Anja Djordjevic Jan Pietkiewicz, Magdalena Programme: A. Djordjevic, Lj. as one of the biggest rock bands of all time. To ap- vember 15-18, the No Sleep Festival. Part of the famous Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm • Brit Floyd ( Floyd Tribute), • Cherry on Top, Dot, Francuska 6, Ranko Zeravica Sports Hall, 11pm Szczepanowska, violins, Natalia Maric, B. Strozzi, pease their fans’ hunger for live Floyd shows, the Festival’s offseason programme, it is bringing a Pariske komune 20, 8.30pm • Cojke, Ludost Bar, Karadjordjeva Reichert, viola, Vuk Ovaksainen, J. Velickovic, W. Rtusinska, British tribute band, Brit Floyd, have put together stellar roster of electronic acts and DJs who will per- P A • Jelena Andonovic, Polet, 44, 11pm cello, H. Kulenty, F. Caccini, A. a fantastic audio-visual spectacle that a Belgrade audi- form in a colossal industrial venue at the Belgrade Port – the Cetinjska 15, 6pm Ognjen Popovic, clarinet Jedreyevskaja Programme: J. Brahms Admission: RSD 400 ence can see on November 13, starting at 8pm, at Ranko new Hangar (Zorza Klemansoa 39). In addition to Hangar, par- • Malinada, Ludost Bar, SUNDAY NOVEMBER 18 Production: Music Centre Zeravica Sports Hall (Pariske Komune 20). ties will take place in other venues, such as Drugstore (Bulevar Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm Admission: RSD 500 WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 21 Widely considered the best Pink Floyd tribute show Despota Stefana 115) and 20/44 (Usce bb). There will also be • Dizel Party, Mr. Stefan Braun, • Paper Animals, Potop & Daz in the world, Brit Floyd are touring the world with the daily workshops and lectures. Nemanjina 4, 11pm Reign, Grad Cultural Center, Brace WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 14 Music Gallery, 6pm “Eclipse World Tour 2018”, celebrating 45 years of the leg- Some of the bigger names playing at the festival include Fat- Krsmanovic 4, 8pm Cycle: Music Workshop endary and probably most popular and well-known Pink boy Slim, Nina Kravitz, Cassius, Lee Burridge, Dax DJ, Francois X, WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 14 • Por Que No, Mr. Stefan Braun, Music Gallery, 6pm Igor Vasiljevic, violin Floyd album, Dark Side of the Moon. Tickets cost from 2,800 Aleksi Perala, Olof Dreijer, Ranbdomer and many others. Tickets Nemanjina 4, 11pm Cycle: An encounter with an Artist Zeljko Ivovic, cello • Contemporary Art Music Ksenia Dyachenko, piano Programme: B. Bartok, A. Rolla, dinars (24 euros) in the risers to 3,200 dinars (27 euros) for the start at 1,190 dinars (10 euros) for single tickets. Festival passes are FREE COPY Festival Lasciar Vibrare, MONDAY NOVEMBER 19 Programme: P.I. Tchaikovsky, F. W.A. Mozart, J. Halvorsen floor and 3,600 dinars (30 euros) for VIP seats. available at 4,490 dinars (38 euros). Studentski Grad Cultural Center, Chopin, F. Liszt Production: Music Center Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 8pm • Above Balkan RnB, Mr. Stefan Production: Music Centre Admission free Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. • Tas Pop Safari, Strogi Centar, Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Admission free Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Gospodar Jevremova 43, 10pm THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 22 Concert Hall, 8pm Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 • Nesha Bridges, Club Fest, Gradski TUESDAY NOVEMBER 20 park 2, 10pm RTS Symphony Orchestra and Choir Concert Hall, 8pm Editor in Chief: Marija Ristic Conductor: Bojan Sudjic RTS Symphony Orchestra • Mastering w/ Gramophonedzie • Malinada, Ludost Bar, Soloists: Irina Iordaschescu, Conductor: Stanko Jovanovic BIRN editorial team: at Ludost, Ludost Bar, & Oysha Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm soprano Production: RTS Music Production Marcus Tanner Karadjordjeva 44, 10pm • Dizel Party, Mr. Stefan Braun, belgradeinsighteditor@birn. • Candy Shop, Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm eu.com Nemanjina 4, 11pm Sales & Marketing: Marija WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 21 THURSDAY NOVEMBER 15 Petrovic • Candy Shop, Mr. Stefan Braun, +381 11 4030 302 • The Sulfur City, MKC Kombinat, Nemanjina 4, 11pm [email protected] Glavna 29, 8pm Greek Psychedelic Subscription & Distribution: • Ana Avramov & Band, THURSDAY NOVEMBER 22 Rock at Elektropionir Grad Cultural Center, Brace Vinyl-Only Night at Drugstore Autarkic Brings Live Set to KC Grad Goran Knezevic Krsmanovica 4, 9pm • Neno Belan and Fiumens, Dom It is well known that Greece is an Monica Kruse Live at Hangar +381 63 562 265 • Naxatrsas & Hals Gramme of Omladine, Makedonska 22, 9pm The popular Belgrade club night, insanely heavy nation, musically Elsiane at Dorcol Platz Tel Aviv-based producer and song- [email protected] Soma, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, • Od Triglava do Vardara, Tbe legendary DJ, producer and owner Vinilijada (Vinyl-Only Party) is coming speaking, with tons of great rock bands writer Nadav Spiegel aka Autarkic is Printing: POLITIKA stamparija 8pm Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 8pm of the Terminal M label, Monica Kruse, to Drugstore (Bulevar Despota Stefana and amazing audiences. On November The Canadian trip-hop/downtempo preparing a funky live set with sam- • Vladan Vuckovic Paja & Spiritus • Bas I Stega, Soul Society, Knez is throwing a huge party at Hangar 115) on Saturday, November 10. The DJs 15, Belgrade fans will be able to hear a duo Elsiane will play on November 16 plers, synths, drum machine and voice d.o.o. Movens, Soul Society, Knez Miletina 2, 9.30pm (Zorza Klemansoa 39) on November behind this event, the legendary Braca psychedelia-leaning hard rock band at Dorcol Platz (Dobracina 59b), starting thrown into the mix. The show will ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Miletina 2, 10pm • RNB Thursday Delight, Brankow, 9. Support will be provided by local Burazeri, have prepared some juicy from Thessaloniki, Naxatras, support- at 9pm. Pre-sale tickets for the concert, take place on November 17 at KC Grad Insight • Trese Lupa Udara, Club Fest, Crnogorska 12, 11pm heavyweight Ilija Djokovic along with beats to spin from their impressive ed by Athens-based Half Gramme of which is part of the band’s promo tour (Brace Krsmanovic 4). Local support COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Gradski park 2, 10pm • Speedy, Dekilaa, David Popovic, Paragon/Bazalac&Racic. Regular tick- record collection, so put your comfy Soma. Tickets for the show at Elektro- for their third album, Death of the Art- will be provided by 33.10.3402, Dusan Circulation: 2,000 • RNB Thursday Delight, Brankow, Steve Tech, Drugstore, Bulevar ets cost 890 dinars (7.5 euros) and 1,490 dancing shoes on. Tickets cost about pionir (Cetinjska 15) cost 800 dinars (7 ist, cost 600 dinars (5 euros). They cost Lilic and Chorbika. Presale tickets are Crnogorska 12, 11pm Despota Stefana 115, 10pm dinars (13 euros) for the VIP area. 500 dinars (4 euros). euros). 700 dinars (6 euros) at the door. available for 900 dinars (8 euros). 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 9 - November 22, 2018 ARTS AND CULTURE

SUNDAY NOVEMBER 18 SATURDAY NOVEMBER 17 • Book Presentation: Ships, • History of Soul Music, Studentski Opera, Ballet and Classical Ivan Sokac, Dom Omladine, Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar • 140th Anniversary of Kolarac, Ilija • Electra (Kis), National Theatre in Makedonska 22, 7.30pm Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm FRIDAY NOVEMBER 09 M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm • Cycle: Genes and Populations trg 5, 11am SATURDAY NOVEMBER 10 - On the Occasion of 50th • Belgrade Philharmonic SUNDAY NOVEMBER 18 Orchestra, Fabrice Bollon Anniversary of The Serbian • Conference: Human Rights in (conductor), Alina Pogostkina MONDAY NOVEMBER 19 Genetic Society, Ilija M. Kolarac • Ivanov (Chekov), National Theatre st , Ilija M. Kolarac 21 Century, Serbian Academy of Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm (violin) in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm • Stojanovic Duo, Dusan Stojanovic Sciences and Arts, Knez Mihailova • Ceremonial Academy and • The House of Bernard Alba • BUNT 6.0, Festival of Classic (cello), Radmila Stojanovic 35, 10am promotion of the book Luka (Lorca), National Theatre in , different locations, 6.30pm (piano), Artget Gallery, Knez • Exhibition: Marko Celebonovic, Vukalovic and Herzegovinian Music Belgrade, Francuska 3, 8.30pm • 15th International Festival Mihailova 6, 9pm Serbian Academy of Sciences and rebels 1852-1862, Ilija M. Kolarac • The Kraut Girl (Lazarevic), Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 10am cembalo Live Art – Ars Vivendi , Kralja Endowment, Studentski trg 5, , Festive Hall of • Student Biennial of Art Book Clavicembalum TUESDAY NOVEMBER 20 Milana 50, 8pm 7.30pm the City Assembly, Dragoslava s(BUK), Studenstki Grad Cultural Jovanovica 2, 8pm th Center, Bulevar Zorana Djindjica • 27 International Festival of MONDAY NOVEMBER 19 FRIDAY NOVEMBER 16 • Ballet: Coppelia (Delibes), Accordion Artists, ULUS Gallery, 179, 12pm National Theatre in Belgrade, Mali Kalemegdan, 7pm • The Patriots (Sterija), National • Exhibition: Art in the Era of • Digitalization in Culture and Francuska 3, 7.30pm • Ragazza MIX, Ilija M. Kolarac Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Classical War, Magacin, Kraljevica Education, Serbian Academy of Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm 7.30pm Marka 8, 7pm Sciences and Arts, Knez Mihailova SATURDAY NOVEMBER 10 • Ballet: The Lady of the Camelias • Frankie and Johnny (McNally), 35, 10am (Verdi), National Theatre in National Theatre in Belgrade, SUNDAY NOVEMBER 11 • Exhibition: First World War, • Bogdan Djordjevic (piano), Francuska 3, 8.30pm program: Brahms, Rachmaninoff, Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm Studentski Grad Cultural Center, • A Month in the Country • Student Biennial of Art Book Liszt, Chopin, Guarneius Hall, Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 10am (Turgenev), Yugoslav Drama s(BUK), Studenstki Grad Cultural Dzordza Vasingtona 12, 6pm WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 21 • Book Presentation: The Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Center, Bulevar Zorana Djindjica • 15th International Festival Beginning of the Past, Belgrade 179, 12pm cembalo Live Art – Ars Vivendi • Cycle Encounter with an Artist, City Library, Knez Mihailova 56, TUESDAY NOVEMBER 20 • Free Zone Belgrade Film Festival, Clavicembalum, Festive Hall of Igor Vasiljevic (violin), Zaljko 7pm the City Assembly, Dragoslava different locations Ivovic (cello), Ilija M. Kolarac • The Possessed (Dostoyevsky), Jovanovica 2, 7pm • Cycle: Genes and Populations Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm National Theatre in Belgrade, th SATURDAY NOVEMBER 17 , Ilija M. - On the Occasion of 50 • Do You Love Brahms • Opera: Cavalleria Rusticana Francuska 3, 8.30pm Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Anniversary of The Serbian (Mascagni), National Theatre in • A Profitable Position (Ostrovsky), • Poetry Live, Evening of Dragan 5, 11am Genetic Society, Ilija M. Kolarac Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Jovanovic Danilov, Ilija M. Kolarac • Piotr Anderszewski (piano), Do Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm Milana 50, 8pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 7pm You Love Brahms, Ilija M. Kolarac THURSDAY NOVEMBER 22 Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm MONDAY NOVEMBER 12 WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 21 • Opera: Il Barbiere di Siviglia SUNDAY NOVEMBER 18 (Rossini), National Theatre in • Concert within the Festival of • Bollywood (Pelevic), National • International Forum – Creation Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm Vasilije Mokranjac Foundation, • Exhibition: Archetypal Settings, Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, of Utopia – of Serbian Academy of Sciences and Mina Rakidzic, Ilija M. Kolarac 8.30pm Yugoslavia (1948 – 1980), Center SUNDAY NOVEMBER 11 Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 5pm • Right You re, If You Think So for Cultural Decontamination • RTS Symphony Orchestra, (Pirandello), Yugoslav Drama (CZKD), Bircaninova 21, 5pm , • Ballet: La Sylphide (Lovenskiold), Stanko Jovanovic (conductor) Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm • Free Zone Belgrade Film Festival, MONDAY NOVEMBER 19 Bolshoi Theatre Live Broadcast, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, different locations Cineplexx Usce, Bulevar Mihajla Studentski trg 5, 8pm THURSDAY NOVEMBER 22 • Day of the Serbian Academy Pupina 4, 3.45pm TUESDAY NOVEMBER 13 of Sciences and Arts, Serbian • 15th International Festival • • The Glass Neck (Strbljanovic), Academy of Sciences and Arts, cembalo Live Art – Ars Vivendi Theatre Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja • Scientific Conference: Pesticides Knez Mihailova 35, 11am Clavicembalum, Belgrade Cultural Milana 50, 8pm – Use and Consequences, Serbian • Dominant anxiety and fears Center, Trg Republike 6, 8pm FRIDAY NOVEMBER 09 Academy of Sciences and Arts, among young people, Studentski • Do You Love Brahms, Ilija M. Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Knez Mihailova 35, 10am 5, 11am • Coffee White (Popovic), National Exhibition and Events • Serbian Cultural Heritage and Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Europe, , Knez • Cultural Heritage of Serbia FRIDAY NOVEMBER 09 MONDAY NOVEMBER 12 8.30pm Mihailova 56, 6pm in Cultural Diplomacy and • Under the Millstone (Nenadic), • Books and Youth in 21st Century, Cultural Defiance, Ilija M. Kolarac • Exhibition: Jovana Zivcic • Banja Luka Trio, Sonja Markovic Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Studenstki Grad Cultural Center, Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm Radovanovic, Beograd Gallery, Milana 50, 8pm Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm (piano), Sonja Vojvodic (violin), Kosancicev venac 19, 9am Lidija Paulin (cello), Serbian • Cycle: DICTIONARIES OF THE TUESDAY NOVEMBER 20 • Exhibition: Lizard in the Soul, Academy of Sciences and Arts, SATURDAY NOVEMBER 10 Nebojsa Bezanic, Heritage House, SINCE VUK Knez Mihailova 35, 6pm Knez Mihailova 46, 10am UNTIL TODAY On The Occasion • Modern Sloven Terminology, • Concert of Music School Dr th • A Suspicious Person (Nusic), • Exhibition: Hamlet on Instagram of 200 Anniversary of the first Serbian Academy of Sciences and Vojislav Vuckovic, Italian Cultural National Theatre in Belgrade, # To Be or Not to Be…Seen, Bogdan edition of the Dictionary of Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 1pm Center, Kneza Milosa 56, 8pm Francuska 3, 8.30pm Pavlovic, Johan Wahlstorm, Serbian Language, Ilija M. Kolarac • Cycle: DICTIONARIES OF THE • Jovana Nikolic (piano), Italian • The Glass Neck (Strbljanovic), Gallery 73, Pozeska 83a, 10am Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm SERBIAN LANGUAGE SINCE VUK Cultural Center, Kneza Milosa 56, Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja • Student Biennial of Art Book • Cycle: MUSICOLOGY AND UNTIL TODAY On The Occasion 9pm Milana 50, 8pm s(BUK), Studenstki Grad Cultural ETHNOMUSICOLOGY On The of 200th Anniversary of the first Center, Bulevar Zorana Djindjica Occasion of 70th Anniversary of TUESDAY NOVEMBER 13 edition of the Dictionary of TUESDAY NOVEMBER 13 179, 10am the Institute of Musicology of Serbian Language, Ilija M. Kolarac • Conference: Human Rights in Serbian Academy of Sciences • Ensemble Belgrade Baroque, Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm 21st Century, Serbian Academy of and Arts SASA, Ilija M. Kolarac Studentski Kulturni centar, Kralaj • Balkan Spy (Nusic), National • Cycle: MUSICOLOGY AND Sciences and Arts, Knez Mihailova Milana 48, 8pm Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm ETHNOMUSICOLOGY On The 35, 10am 8.30pm Occasion of 70th Anniversary of • Exhibition: First World War, WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 14 WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 14 • Why Does Herr R. Run Amok? Science and Technology Gallery, the Institute of Musicology of (Fassbinder), Yugoslav Drama Djure Jaksica 2, 10am Serbian Academy of Sciences • Natasa Penezic (piano), Festive • Scientific Conference: Pesticides Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm • Current Research into and Arts SASA, Ilija M. Kolarac Hall of the City Assembly, – Use and Consequences, Serbian International Futurism, prof. Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm Dragoslava Jovanovica 2, 8pm Academy of Sciences and Arts, WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 14 Ginter Berghaus, Festive Hall of , Ilija Knez Mihailova 35, 10am • Ksenija Dyachenko (piano) the Rectorate of the University of WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 21 M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski • Exhibition: Snezana Maksimovic, • The Lady of the Camelias (Flis), Arts, Kosancicev venac 29/I, 11am trg 5, 6pm Cukarica Cultural Center, National Theatre in Belgrade, • Exhibition: Bye Photography, • Nordic Movie Theatre, Krokodil Turgenjevljeva 5, 7pm Francuska 3, 7.30pm Artget Gallery, Trg Republike 5/I, Center, Karadjordjeva 43, 7pm THURSDAY NOVEMBER 15 • O!PLA Festival, Studentski Grad • A Month in the Country 12pm • Cycle: LOGIC, MATHEMATICS Cultural Center, Bulevar Zorana (Turgenev), Yugoslav Drama • Exhibition: Only Men are in AND THE STRUCTURE OF • Vukasin Gogos (piano), Antonela Djindjica 179, 8pm Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm front of You, Jelena Trpkovic, Art PHYSICAL REALITY – Philosophy Grgin (piano), Serbian Academy of Gallery, Knez Mihailova 6, 12pm • Cycle: LOGIC, MATHEMATICS of Milos Arsenijevic, Ilija M. Sciences and Arts, Knez Mihailova • Exhibition: Unfinished Business, AND THE STRUCTURE OF THURSDAY NOVEMBER 15 Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg 35, 6pm Bojan Fajfric, Podroom Gallery, Trg PHYSICAL REALITY – Philosophy • Ballet: Dictionary of the Khazars 5, 6pm Republike 5/I, 12pm of Milos Arsenijevic, Ilija M. – Dream Hunters, National Theatre • A Profitable Position (Ostrovsky), • Cycle: Genes and Populations • Exhibition: Classic and Symbolic Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja - On the Occasion of 50th – Rings and Earrings from Antic 5, 6pm Milana 50, 8pm to the Middle Century, Museum Anniversary of The Serbian FRIDAY NOVEMBER 16 of Applied Arts, Vuka Karadzica 18, , Ilija M. Kolarac THURSDAY NOVEMBER 15 Genetic Society FRIDAY NOVEMBER 16 6pm Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 6pm • Belgrade Philharmonic • Exhibition: Marko Celebonovic, Orchestra, Daniel Raiskin • Book Presentation: Affair Momo • Road to Damascus (Strindberg), Serbian Academy of Sciences and THURSDAY NOVEMBER 22 (conductor), Milan Savic Kapor, Sofija Skoric, Belgrade City National Theatre in Belgrade, Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, 7pm (saxophone), Ilija M. Kolarac • Book Presentation: From a Library, Knez Mihailova 56, 7pm Francuska 3, 7.30pm • Exhibition: Aleksandar Opacic, Endowment, Studentski trg 5, 8pm Happy Republic, Petar Matovic • Mister Gaga - The cycle of • The Nineties (Milenkovic), Studentski Grad Cultural Center, and Marjan Cakarevic, Studenstki projections of the best world SATURDAY NOVEMBER 17 National Theatre in Belgrade, Grad Cultural Center, Bulevar documentaries, Belgrade City Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm Francuska 3, 8.30pm Zorana Djindjica 179, 7pm Library, Knez Mihailova 56, 7pm • Literary Evening: Critical Edition • Opera: Il Trovatore (Verdi), • King of Betajnova (Cankar), • Exhibition: Art in the Era of • All ours Frankensteins, Belgrade of the Works of Ivo Andric, Ilija M. National Theatre in Belgrade, Yugoslav Drama Theatre, Kralja Classical War, Magacin, Kraljevica Cultural Center, Knez Mihailova 6, Kolarac Endowment, Studentski trg Francuska 3, 7.30pm Milana 50, 8pm Marka 8, 7pm 7pm 5, 7.30pm