Issue No. 171 Friday, October 31 - Thursday, November 13, 2014 ORDER DELIVERY TO Belgrade’s Romania expects Free Zone YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 last shoe- president to turn focuses on [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 shiners face page in history cinematic BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 oblivion delights

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COMMENT Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser

Lawyers war Austerity - - - is bringingNEWS with ministry paralyses Serbia no benefitsNEWS

Serbian judiciary “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. While Serbia’s The revised budget reveals

justice ministry page 10 and striking that the effects of lawyers trade the government’s ‘austerity’ policies bitter accusations, hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro -

are practically a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. experts say W Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, resolution must nonexistent - and will only result urgently be found page 5 to the conflict. in a yet higher

Gordana ANDRIĆ budget deficit.

bout 50 days since law- conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the yers in Serbia went on After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party strike, a deal with the E ministry on is as far away as ever and the acrimo- nyA is worsening. Although the government adopted Friday • June 13 2008 the amendments to the Law on Nota- ries and related laws on October 30th, the Serbian Chamber of Lawyers stat- ed that the provisions do not deliver THIS ISSUE OF the substantial changes the lawyers Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED sought. Goran RADOSAVLJEVIĆ on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T Continued on page 3 Serbian lawyers went on strike on September 17th. Photo by Beta fter announcing a revised budget for months, Serbia’s government finally adopt- COMMENT ed one on October 22nd. Under the same practice usedA last year, they sent it to parliament in an emergency procedure where it was adopted on October 26th. Vučić sells reformist The look and structure of the revised budget holds few surprises for those who have tracked Serbia’s fiscal policy image to London audience over the past few months. Revenues have dropped significantly, The Serbian leader’s speech to the LSE confirms ballot box has confirmed his popu- He highlighted legislative changes in especially from VAT and excise tax - two lar legitimacy. areas such as privatisation, the labour majors sources of revenue. At the same that ‘the Balkan peacemaker’ wants to rebrand Vučić focused on the economy and market and bankruptcy regulations as time, spending has risen, especially on himself as the region’s great economic reformer. underscored his resolve to make Serbia the key to success, adding that Air Ser- subsidies. All of this has resulted in a sig- a top performer in this field. “We want to bia is by far the best carrier in the region. nificantly higher deficit this year. Dimitar Bechev ister, Aleksandar Vučić, made at the lead in building highways, attracting in- While some might dismiss his rheto- Budget expenditures rise from 1.113 London School of Economics, LSE, on vestment and agriculture,” he said. ric as a PR effort to charm a British au- billion dinars [€9.32 billion] to 1.122 bil- am changing every day, Monday October 27th. He waxed lyrical about his early days dience, on another level it points to a lion dinars [€9.39 billion], while rev- learning new things.” No, Facing a packed hall, Serbia’s lead- as an ambitious young man, working at narrative shift. Vučić and his Serbian enues fall from 930 billion dinars [€7.79 that is not an echo from er projected confidence, fending off a London corner shop, only to make it Progressive Party originally gained billion] to 897 billion dinars [€7.51 bil- Emir Kusturica’s 1981 clas- tough questions on media freedom, to the top of Serbian politics. Indeed, he traction with the West by playing lion]. sic Do You Remember recalling how the government han- drew an implicit parallel that between along on Kosovo. Dolly“I Bell but one of the quotes from dled the recent Gay Pride Parade his personal story and Serbia’s drive to the speech that Serbia’s Prime Min- and underscoring the fact that the succeed. Continued on page 2 Continued on page 7

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 31 - Thursday, November 13, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 31 - Thursday, November 13, 2014 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Kosovo president Continued from page 1 PRESS REVIEW Continued from page 1 cancels Belgrade visit BLIC, October 30th Atifete Jahjaga will not attend Different a meeting in Belgrade from st nd Vučić sells GAY PARTNERSHIP TO BE October 31 to November 2 Lawyers war with ministry countries, as previously planned. Her LEGALISED office said that she would not different attend because of the political Serbia in brief Same-sex partnerships are reformist image to mentioned for the first time in the dispute over forming a paralyses Serbian judiciary solutions government has kept Kosovo Serbian legal system in the draft institutions in deadlock since of the Family Law, which says that the June general elections. gay partnerships will be defined “For the first time in history, the lawyers’ The division of work between nota- Jahjaga was supposed to London audience ragoljub Đorđević, head of profession is in danger of being extin- ries and lawyers is regulated differently by a special law. “The idea behind attend a gathering organised this it to give gay people the right the Chamber, called the gov- guished,” the Serbian Chamber of Lawyers in the countries of the region and in by the Trilateral Commission, to live together with the provisions ernment’s decision to adopt wrote in a shrill statement on October 29th, Europe. a non-governmental of a special law,“ says Olga Cvejić amendments without previ- asking the EU to intervene and mediate ne- In Bosnia, notaries have exclusive discussion group founded in rights to compile different contracts, Janjić, who wrote the draft Family ously reaching an agreement gotiations with the Justice Ministry. 1973. D including those on real estate, as well with lawyers “scandalous.” Božo Prelević, a lawyer and a former co- Law. “Selaković [the minister] negotiated with minister of the interior, told BIRN that the as verifying them. Serbia’s business In Albania, both notaries and lawyers th a mirror and then he took that agreement two sides must establish a dialogue and conditions rankings POLITIKA, October 30 to the government which, protecting its find a solution on their own. can compile agreements, while notaries drop minister, decided to adopt the changes,” he “There are two ways. One is further radi- must verify them. In practice in Albania, AMERICAN COORPORATION told Fonet on October 30th. calisation, which would not suit citizens, most people use notaries for simpler le- According to the World Bank’s TAKES OVER SMEDEREVO Experts say the two sides must urgently lawyers or the state; the other is a construc- gal services, as the contracts are often ease-of-doing-business rank- STEEL COMPANY standard, turning to lawyers for more st find a solution to bring the lawyers’ strike to tive dialogue that would lead to a solution,” ings for 2015, Serbia is 91 out complicated issues. of 189 countries around the a swift conclusion, while the ministry must Prelević said. After talks in London with Jim In Croatia, the compilation of most world, a drop from last year’s come up with a broader strategy to deal contracts lies in the jurisdiction of law- ranking of 77. Serbia scored Bouchard, the president of Esmark with the growing backlog in the courts. COURTS BLOCKED yers, and notaries are not authorised best in terms of investor and Steel Group, Serbia’s PM Aleksandar “The judiciary is being paralysed by the to draft up private documents, such as minority shareholder protection, Vučić told media that they are about lack of a deal. At the moment, the vast ma- Since the lawyers went on strike, the ju- contracts to purchase real estate. where it was ranked 32nd in the to reach an agreement on Železara jority of cases are being postponed, and diciary has basically halted work. Although world, while its worst assess- Smederevo. Vučić said a public the situation was alarming even before the there are no data on how many cases are The Serbian Chamber of Notaries ment was given for the process call is due in seven to eight days, strike began,” Milan Antonijević, head of being postponed every day in Serbia, about told BIRN that notaries in many EU countries are authorised to prepare of getting construction permits, while the tender will be in about the Lawyers Committee for Human Rights, 30 to 40 cases are being postponed in the and certify contracts on real estate, which saw the country ranked a month. “I think we had fruitful YUCOM, told BIRN. Higher Court in Belgrade each day. th and in some countries, this authority is 186 . conversations and that the Železara The Belgrade Chamber of Lawyers went The Higher Court handles the largest on strike on September 10th, while the Ser- number of cases and deals with criminal exclusive. workers now have reason to be “In France, notaries are solely respon- Ruling parties ignore satisfied,“ he added. bian Chamber joined in seven days later. proceedings. media freedom Lawyers want their lump sum tax burdens “About 90 per cent of activities have sible for the transfer of property owner- session ship. In Belgium, they have exclusivity in KURIR, October 30th reduced to last year’s level because levies been stopped due to the strike, but the state have drastically risen this year. They also want should have this in mind when addressing drafting and certification of documents relating to immovable property, family Representatives of the govern- changes to the jurisdictions recently given to the lawyers. The strike is lasting so long relations and inheritance and corporate ing parties in the Serbian parlia- HEALTH WORKERS PLAN A notaries and the resignation of the minister. because the state has violated the constitu- law. In Italy and Poland as well, notaries ment snubbed a parliamentary STRIKE They claim that notaries, who started tion,” Šoškić said. have exclusivity concerning certain information committee session operating again in Serbia on September 1st, Božo Prelević says the two sides must tasks related to real estate transac- that was supposed to discuss If the Serbian Government doesn’t have been given jurisdictions that violate find a compromise that works for citizens, tions,” the Chamber said. freedom of the media on fulfill a request from healthcare the constitution. the state and the lawyers. October 30th. Ivan Tasovac, the The Chamber says keeping some trade unions, who want the health According to the Law on Notaries, the “This year, we already had a 20-day Serbian culture and information contracts in Serbia in the form of sector to be exempted from the notaries enjoy exclusive rights to compile strike in July, then in August there was a minister, also failed to attend. notarial records would better protect salary reduction in the public sector, and verify dozens of different contracts, holiday break and now there are 50 days of The session was scheduled at people’s legal rights. all healthcare employees will strike including contracts on real estate. These strike,” he noted. the initiative of Serbia’s Inde- “The notary is being introduced to from November 5th. “Our salaries tasks used to amount to about 70 per cent Nikola Selaković, Serbian justice minister. Photo by Beta “It has been almost four months since pendent Journalists’ Associa- increase legal certainty,” the Chamber of the work of the lawyers. the judiciary operated normally. Neither tion, NUNS. are among the lowest in Serbia, but maintained. “In this respect, when the “Lawyers are not denying the need for Law on Notaries and some accompanying longer any professional reasons for lawyers the state not the lawyers can afford this,” he also in the region,“ Zoran Savić, the situation in the real estate market in notaries. But the notaries are now being laws so that lawyers would continue to to remain on strike as the concessions met added. ‘Russia Today’ news president of the union, told media. Serbia is not at its best, the introduction given the right to provide legal help, and the have a role in compiling contracts on Octo- their key requests. YUCOM has urged the ministry to ad- service opens in Vučić reiterated that Serbia’s strategic target is to join the EU. Photo by Beta of notarial records for the sale of real th constitution says that the lawyers are the ber 20th. “Now, when there are no professional dress all open issues with the lawyers, as Serbia BLIC, October 30 estate will contribute to better protec- only one who can do this, so the fact that However, the lawyers rejected the reasons for the strike, it has become clear the court system is already burdened with tion of the parties,” it added. they have given notaries the sole right to offer on October 27th, stating that the that this is actually about interests and the a large number of pending cases. Moscow’s international news SERBIA TO SELL TELECOMS “Unlike lawyers, who work in the agency Russia Today is open- ut the EU-led talks on “normali- At the same time, he reiterated that Ser- AND ENERGY COMPANIES compile contracts goes against the consti- proposed changes still implied that real links between political schemers and ty- Milan Antonijević, from YUCOM, says interests of one side, notaries act in ing 29 new offices abroad, sation” of ties with Pristina are bia’s long-term, strategic target is to join the tution,” Slobodan Šoškić, president of the estate contracts would be in the hands coons,” the minister told TV Pink on Octo- the ministry should prepare a strategy to the interests of all parties in certain including one in Serbia, with now on hold while the politi- European Union. He reminded everyone of Belgrade Chamber of Lawyers, told BIRN. of notaries. ber 29th. deal with these delays, as they will only During an investment forum in proceedings. a promise to promote the cians in Kosovo wrangle over his statement at the joint press conference They stated that such solutions still strip “It is clearly someone’s objective to not continue to worsen once the strike ends. “The notary is obliged to check all Kremlin’s news perspective. London, Serbia’s Prime Minister the formation of a new govern- with Vladimir Putin during the Russian FAILED TALKS both citizens of their constitutional right to convict Miroslav Mišković and destabilise “They must find some way for the judici- documentation, making sure every- Ljubinka Milinčić, a former B Aleksandar Vučić announced ment. Meanwhile, the drama at the recent President’s recent visit to Belgrade. choose whomsoever they wanted to assist the entire state,” he added. ary to make up for this time, a strategy of thing is in accordance with the law, Moscow correspondent for that the state will sell Telekom Serbia-Albania Euro 2016 qualifier match But it is questionable whether Pu- Following a meeting with the lawyers, them with their private rights. After the Serbian Chamber of Lawyers intensified work and prepare to deal with to prepare the contract impartially, the NIN weekly and Politika Serbia, adding that Serbia is also has fanned nationalist passions. tin objects to Serbia’s EU ambitions. Vu i ’s the Justice Ministry came out with a com- Selaković reiterated that the ministry denied these claims, expressing concerns these issues as soon as the strike is over,” protecting the interests of both sides,” daily newspaper, will head the č ć planning to sell a minority share The Prime Minister did say a few words If anything, the Kremlin stands to promise proposal, offering to amend the stood by its offer and that there were no over the future of the profession. Antonijević said. the Chamber concluded. Belgrade office that she said about the match and about Albania, Ko- gain from having a close friend in London trip in the national power company plans to employ 30 people. sovo, Bosnia and the rest of the Western Brussels. Elektroprivreda Srbije. “Tenders will Milincic told news agency Beta Balkans but clearly that was not his main The image of the tough-talking be transparent, and the one offering that the Serbian website will confirms that selling point. Vučić the reformer has come leader who stands up to Western the best conditions will win,” Vučić report on events in the country to replace Vučić the peacemaker. pressure to impose sanctions on said, but did not talk about possible with a Russian foreign policy he has been perspective. We have yet to see how far the effort Russia - and to Moscow’s perceived prices. to curb the fiscal deficit, restructure loss- ambitions to divert Serbia from its embraced th Serbian PM’s brother making state enterprises and boost com- EU path - is mostly aimed at pub- DANAS, October 30 in ‘fake ID card’ row petitiveness will go, however. It is not in- lic opinion at home. It implicitly by important conceivable that the government’s zeal for evokes memories of President Tito’s TADIĆ’S PARTY REFUSES Opposition MP Zoran Živković reform will wear thin as the winter sets in non-aligned foreign policy and has EU capitals, TO JOIN VOJVODINA’S accused Aleksandar Vučić’s and as popular discontent picks up. resonance with older voters. GOVERNMENT brother of running a company Cuts in public-sector wages and pen- Vučić’s London trip confirms perhaps as involved in illegal business sions announced last year may convince that he has been embraced by im- Boris Tadić, the leader of Social practices, but officials said the IMF that Serbia is on the right track portant EU capitals, perhaps as the the lesser evil, Democratic Party and the former his ID card was stolen to and merits an accord. They may well not lesser evil, or for lack of a credible president of Serbia, decided not set up the offending firm. succeed in rekindling growth and drawing alternative. That continues to dis- or for lack to join Vojvodina’s provincial Marko Marinković, the deputy foreign investors, which is reportedly the hearten liberals in Serbia who be- government as the ruling Democrats director of the Serbian Tax primary goal of Vučić’s trip to London. (He lieve the country is backsliding. of a credible Administration, said on was adamant that Serbia has undertaken We are yet to see whether their and League of Social Democrats of Sunday October 26th that the fiscal consolidation of its own volition, not worst fears will come true - and alternative. Vojvodina offered his party only one allegations against the prime under a diktat.) whether the Faustian bargain be- secretariat. minister’s brother, Andrej Relations with Russia were also in the tween Vučić and the EU backfires Vučić, had been investigated spotlight. Vučić was unapologetic about on all parties involved. and found to be false as long Serbia’s warm ties to Moscow and talked at ago as 2011. The company, length about the benefits of such massive Dimitar Bechev is Senior Visiting BIRN has not verified the Asomacum, which was in- energy projects as the South Stream gas Fellow, European Institute, London reports and cannot vouch for volved in financial fraud, was pipeline. School of Economics their accuracy registered using a forged ID card in Andrej Vučić’s name, he said. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 31 - Thursday, November 13, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 31 - Thursday, November 13, 2014 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE Memorial Belgrade’s last shoe- planned for Belgrade’s Nazi shiners face oblivion concentration

yers, doctors, businessmen. They Thousands of don’t want to change me,” he says camp proudly. shoe-shiners Sometimes they just bring him th their shoes and come back for them Following the 70 anniversary of the later on. used to ply their “Sometimes they call me on the liberation of Belgrade, the city authorities cell phone to check if I am here,” Is- trade in Belgrade mail adds. plan to build a memorial centre at the He comes to his workplace every WWII Nazi concentration camp. in years gone by day at 9am and stays until 2pm or 3pm. He can’t stay any longer these – but today only days for reasons to do with his age. he new memorial centre will be It was built in 1937 as a trade fair and And he seldom comes at all in winter. dedicated to the victims of the consisted of a central tower and five pa- a handful of old- “There are not many people Tlargest Nazi concentration camp vilions – Italian, Czechoslovak, Roma- around then. The best periods of year in the region, located in the suburb of nian, Hungarian and one for the Dutch timers remain, for my job are spring and autumn,” he Staro Sajmište, Belgrade city manager company Philips. observes. Goran Vesić told Tanjug news agency After the German invasion of 1941, it remembering the Ismail still has to work – there is on October 27th. was transformed into a concentration no other option. “I don’t have a pen- Vesic said that it would be a giant pro- camp known as Judenlager Semlin. good old days. sion, so I will work here as long as my ject which would take several years to From December 1941 until May 1942, health permits,” he says. be complete and that the local authori- the occupying Nazis imprisoned and “But it is nice here. I spend the day ties will fund it with donations from killed about 7,000 Jewish women and with people I know and I like, so it is international foundations that finance children in the camp. Ivana NIKOLIĆ never boring.” the building of such centres. After May 1942, by which time most Ismail now looks at the shoe in his “For us it is very important to estab- Jews had been killed or had fled, it be- hat should hand and starts to polish it. lish how the memorial centre will look, came a work camp for political prison- I tell you? “They look way better now,” I and then we will know how much that ers of all nationalities. I make say. “Well, they should,” Ismail says will cost,“ he said. Today the old camp barracks and enough proudly, continuing his work. The idea of building a memorial at other buildings function as homes for for some Staro Sajmište has been floated for years, a sporting club and a couple of restau- “Wbread and beans,” Sulejman Aslan, LAST OF THE CAVALIERS but no pan has ever been put into action. rants. A monument dedicated to victims of the Nazis in New Belgrade. Photo by jaime.silva/Flickr one of the last shoe cleaners in the Serbian capital, says. If you follow the way around busy Sitting on a low stool, holding a Slavija Square, then head down Ne- black shoe in his hand and the big manjina Street, you will end up in brush in the other, he starts to clean a front of Belgrade Railway Station. Drivers offered shoe as I ask how old his brushes are. Right around the corner, in front of “Older than you. They are 40,” Is- a closed pastry shop, you can spot mail says, his face turning into a huge another well-known Belgrade boot smile. polisher. short-term car rentals Ismail’s late father came to Bel- Dragan Jašarević has been shining grade’s Slavija Square to work as a shoes here since 1962. “My grand- he new ‘car-sharing’ service will “We own Fiat 500s and Fiat Pandas shoe-shiner back in 1930s, in the days mother started this family business Belgraders get a be launched on November 15th, that are adjusted for city driving and of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia. Ismail back in 1939. My father took over new transport Tallowing people to pick up a car they neither use much fuel nor pollute,“ started helping his father when he many years later, and I learned it in one part of the city, use it, and then Jevtović added. was only a lad. from him,” Jašarević recalls. option in leave it somewhere else. During the reservation process, the “I came here in 1967,” Ismail says, But he will not let his children do Drivers wanting to rent a vehicle client will see a map with the locations placing the polished shoe on the this job, the old craftsman says, ex - November – a short- from Car for Use, the company launch- of available cars. Drivers can take a car table and taking up the other one. plicitly. “There is no money in it; they ing the service, will first have to register any time of the day or night, and fuel “There is nothing left for the old shoe- need to find something profitable,“ he term car-rental on its website, while reservations can and insurance are included in the price. shiners on the streets of Belgrade,” also be made via smartphones. The pick-up locations will be made he adds, recalling the service allowing “At the moment we have 30 vehi- public by November 15th, but they will olden days. cles that will be parked and available probably include parking lots, shop- “It was really Back then, drivers to use a to citizens at various locations,“ Jelena ping malls and petrol stations. nice here on Jevtović, the director of Car for Use, According to Jevtović, one hour will Slavija Square we were vehicle for single told Večernje Novosti newspaper on cost around €10, but a car can also be th - friends, October 25 . rented for less than an hour. Belgraders will soon have the opportunity to rent single-trip vehicles. Photo by HiFiJazz/Flickr small talk, all able trips. more clients than now - to make and more money,” Ismail a living explains, as he looks at the square full of cars. by cleaning Competition was a lot stiffer back then, however. Around 400 people’s shoes. CITY GUIDE Available at: people made a living from polish- Dragan Jašarević has been shining shoes since 1962. Photo by Ivana Nikolić ing shoes in Belgrade in the 1960s Tourist Organisation of Belgrade Now I can Knez Mihailova 5, +381 (11) 2635 622 and 1970s. adds, bitterly. “Back then, we were all able to tro”, as he calls Jašarević, and places Central Train Station, +381 (11) 3612 732 “It was very hard to keep your Back in the old days, he had no time make a living by cleaning people’s one foot on the table with brushes. Nikola Tesla Airport, +381 (11) 2097 828 Belgrade Port, Karađorđeva clientele back then,” he says se- hardly make to waste. There were seven shoeshin- shoes. Now I can hardly make ends “This is a regular client of mine,“ riously, glancing away from the ers in the Karađorđeva Street and meet.” Jašarević says, as he greets the guy. Hotel Moskva Terazije 20, +381 11 3642 000 shoe for a moment. ends meet.” they all worked constantly. Thou- Now, he says, it takes him a whole He looks happy now. FREE PULL OUT MAP OF BELGRDAE sands of people stopped by to have day to earn what he used to earn in “I have been coming here every FREE SIM CARD Hotel Excelsior Kneza Miloša 5, +381 11 3231 381 APROPO AS LONG AS their shoes cleaned. the 1960s and 1970s by 8am. day for the last 30 years, and you can TOP SIGHTSEEING LOCATIONS Bookstore and tearoom HEALTH PERMITS A lot of people walk by him every “I came at 8 o’clock sharp this morn- see how well preserved my shoes Supermarket concept store Cara Lazara 10 PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP Dragan day nowadays as well - but they sel- ing,” he says, looking at his wrist- are,” the man says, raising his voice Višnjićeva 10, +381 11 2910 942 +381 11 2625839 GUIDED TOURS THROUGH BELGRADE However, he does have his regu- dom stop. watch. “But no one has approached over the din coming from buses, Hotel Townhouse 27 At the Belgrade Airport lars, and it would be a lot more dif- Jašarević “All sorts of people come to me, but me so far.” trams and cars that are passing us in WIDE SELECTION OF CLUBS, HOTELS, Maršala Birjuzova 56, +381 11 2022 900 Hudson news odlasci / departures ficult without them, he admits. there are no true cavaliers any long- As Jašarević utters those words, a Karađorđeva Street. RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND Booking Rooms Hostel Hudson news dolasci / arrivals “I cannot remember all their er,“ Jašarević says with a nostalgic short man with a wide smile comes The old maestro takes up his brush- ENTERTAINMENT VALUE Kralja Petra 30, +381 63 29 39 39 Hudson news čekiranje / check in names, but my regulars are law- look on his face. up, gives some money to the “maes- es and gets to work. www.bookingrooms.rs Hudson news transit zona / transit 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 31 - Thursday, November 13, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 31 - Thursday, November 13, 2014 7 BELGRADE BUSINESS

ADVERTORIAL Bridge named after Continued from page 1 scientist Mihajlo Pupin A bridge on the Danube Improving justice connecting the Belgrade Austerity is bringing suburbs of Zemun and Perfect Borča has been named after system is vital for Serbia Serbian-born scientist and Serbia no benefits

inventor Mihajlo Pupin (1858- in brief Belgrade 1935), the City Assembly Wellness announced on October 27th. The Council of are multiple possibilities for addressing People chose Pupin, who is the issue. renowned for his innovations in Europe Office’s He notes that the programmes designed to improve the independence, transpar- telecommunications, in a vote Service new head in ency, efficiency and accessibility of the jus- on Belgrade TV station Studio B. tice system have been and remain a prior- The construction of the bridge Belgrade, Tim ity for the Council of Europe. started in October 2011 and the Cartwright, says “It is important to bear in mind there is Whether you came on business or for official opening will be held in the EU accession process, and that is an private reasons, don’t forget that you’re mid-December. strengthening the additional motor,” he adds. “The European Union in some senses re-prioritised its own in the fastest-living city in the region – Students stage public rule of law will pre-accession priorities to put the justice relaxation is of the utmost importance. transport head-count system more to the forefront. not only improve “It is recognised across the board by Around 500 Belgrade students international actors, but also by Serbian arin Milosavljevicć, marketing started counting the number the justice system authorities themselves, that reform in the justice sector also holds the key to steps manager of the WellnessLand of people using public but stimulate in the EU accession process. It is not some- Center and SkyWellness Club th transportation on October 28 in thing you could put into the future – this is will tell you a little more about a survey aimed at rationalising investment, something that has to be dealt with now.” reasons why those are decidedly the system in the capital next Cartwright adds that Serbia also needs Mthe places which offer absolute maximum when uphold a free spring. Depending on the to keep the efficiency of the justice system it comes to spa services, saunas, massage and fit- results, some routes will be media and help in mind. ness activities in Belgrade. shut and new ones opened. The Italy, he recalls, was a prime offender be- students are being paid 180 Serbia on its way fore the European Court of Human Rights in terms of breaching people’s right to a fair About autumn refreshments: dinars per hour; around €1.50. to Europe. trial within a reasonable amount of time. For a whole decade in WellnessLand, and more than five years in Sky- “This is a risk for Serbia,” he adds, “which Wellness, we’re in love with a healthy life. During those years we learnt that WWII commander Gordana ANDRIĆ is why I put a particular emphasis on the the essence of a good service shouldn’t be changed, but that occasional commemorated with a efficiency of the system, because the con- refreshments are always a good thing. With that in mind, this season we in- boulevard im Cartwright, new head of vention guarantees redress before the law troduce new working hours – for the early birds, we’re open from 6:30 AM, the Council of Europe Office in within a reasonable space of time”. which has garnered great approval from all our members, but also from Serbia’s PM Vučić with Finance Minister Dušan Vujović. Photo by Beta A part of Kumodraška Street Serbia, says that strengthening Another concern of the Parliamentary our intermittent clients. Also, because of many guests from abroad, who in the suburb of Voždovac has the rule of law in the country is Assembly of the Council of Europe, PACE, spend several continual days or weeks in Belgrade on account of business, changed its name to Peko vital for the health of the jus- is freedom of expression and the media. n the revenue side, the Spending noticeably increased by million], but the revised budget, has upped we devised a new kind of monthly fee, as well as a day pass. That way, we Dapčević Boulevard, after the Ttice system, for enabling the media to work “The situation in Serbia is genuinely a estimated tax revenue about 2 per cent compared to what was this by more than 20 times to over 14 bil- are more available than ever, and our service is still as exclusive as ever. military commander involved freely - and even for attracting investment. cause of concern, there is a problem of plu- dropped by as much as planned, amounting to almost 21 billion lion dinars [€116 million]. About a unique concept of WellnessLand Center: in the liberation of Belgrade in “The rule of law system is a fundamental rality, there is a problem of independence, 5.3 per cent, which in real dinars [€175 million]. This is probably because of the fall in part of democracy, but efficiency of justice I think there is a problem of interference terms is 43 billion dinars The reason for such high growth in cur- RFZO revenues, which resulted from the Conceptually, WellnessLand is very close to Western clubs with exclu- 1944, who was also the first is also a vital part of financial investment,” and there is a real problem of self censor- [€360O million]. rent expenditures is primarily an increase government’s health policies and its deci- sive membership. Our members appreciate their own privacy, as well as honorary citizen of the capital. Cartwright told BIRN in an interview. ship,” Cartwright says. The biggest drop in revenue was from in subsidies by almost 16 per cent and an sion to lower the health contributions rate respecting the privacy of other people. Whether you’re here because of “This is an opportunity to pay “For an investor, the security of the rule He believes the professional compe- VAT, which fell by 7.5 per cent, despite the increase of “other current expenditures”. by 2 per cent in mid-2014. exercise, spa zone, pool, body treatment or some combination of the of- respect to everyone who gave of law is a vital part of the assessment cri- tence of the media is also a matter of con- fact that VAT went up from 18 to 20 per The budget line called “other current ex- On the other hand, pension and dis- fered services, alone or in company, time spent in WellnessLand will relax their lives for the liberation of teria - whether to invest in one country or cern, as its passivity. cent in October 2012, while the lower VAT penditures” increased by over 100 per ability insurance contributions have been you and prepare you for your various business and private challenges. Our Belgrade and to preserve their not,” he says. “It always involves risks, it “It relies on being spoon fed press and applied to some basic goods, such as food- cent. Part of this increase is clear. Half of increased, also by 2 per cent. This has a permanent members come mostly by way of reccomendation, and we ob- memory,” Belgrade mayor may involve litigations and if you can’t liti- media releases - and many of these are stuffs, medicines and medical supplies, the sum, about 4.5 billion dinars [37 mil- double-negative effect. viously have more than a good reputation among foreign guests of our city, because they keep coming back every time they return to Belgrade. Siniša Mali told media. Dapčević gate - you won’t invest.” taken without scrutiny, without challenge, rose from 8 to 10 per cent in January 2014. lion], are funds for the Government’s Of- These two decisions resulted in the gov- Cartwright has arrived in Belgrade from without analysis, so there is not only self- Revenues from excise tax also dropped fice for Reconstruction and Flood Relief ernment paying €110 million more than it was a commander in the Pristina, Kosovo, where he served for censorship but also a lack of a true investi- by about 7.2 per cent compared to the and for the Ministry of Finance, intended planned to the RFZO and 5.4 billion dinars About the excellent Yugoslav Army, a volunteer in three-and-a-half years as head of the Coun- Tim Cartwright says that efficiency of the justice system is a vital part of financial investment. Photo by Gordana Andrić gative reporting tradition,” Cartwright says. planned figure. Revenues from excise on for political parties in parliament and the [€45 million] less to the Pension and Dis- atmosphere in SkyWellness Club: the Spanish Civil War and one cil of Europe Office. He believes that to improve the media, tobacco products were almost 20 per cent costs of the election campaign, which are ability Insurance Fund. In SkyWellness Club, we have a luxury of the best view in town. If you of the most prominent Yugoslav From 2005 to 2007, he was the Special Constitutional Court overturned the deci- Council of Europe to go through multiple the Council of Europe and other players lower than expected, while revenues from in line with the law. The net effect of this increase and have ever heard those incredible stories about a night life on Belgrade’s riv- communists. Representative of the Secretary General of sion of the state commissions in charge of processes of appointing judges and pros- need to ensure that the legislative frame- excise taxes on oil and oil derivatives were Serbia held snap general elections in decrease of contributions by 2 per cent ers, the early-morning or day exercise with a perfect view on those same the Council of Europe in Bosnia and Herze- judicial reform to sack them. ecutors, he recalls. work is correct, that the capacity of the somewhat higher than was originally March this year. (which should be neutral) is negative. In rivers will render you speechless! SkyWellness Club is young and full of New footpath for govina. Legal experts accused the commissions In many ex-communist countries, it profession itself is increasing and that the planned. Where the rest of the money from “oth- addition, the burden on businesses has positive energy, and a favorite city spot when it comes to best quality exer- Branko’s Bridge Cartwright believes there are many tasked with choosing judges and prosecu- was normal practice for judicial functions justice system works to protect journalistic The reason for the latter is mainly ac- er current expenditures” will go is not that not been reduced because, when they are cise. Sauna, various kinds of body treatments, and services of professional similarities between Balkan countries but tors of not respecting their own criteria, of across the board to be heavily politicised. freedom adequately and within a legisla- tion to prevent the smuggling of oil deriva- clear. The budget mentions money spent added up, the rates remained the same. trainers are also available to our guests. A bus and taxi lane on Branko’s many dissimilarities as well; the challenge sacking good judges and prosecutors for When judiciary reforms were launched, tive framework. tives in Kosovo and measures introduced by the Finance Ministry on “fines and pen- The conclusion is clear. The budget revi- Bridge was closed on October facing Serbia is to “translate what is already political reasons and of promoting others the councils tasked with selecting new “At the same time, we need to ensure to curb the so-called “grey” economy in alties on the basis of court decisions”. This sion has only formalised the real state of About an incredible equipment: provided for the law into effective delivery with problematic records. There were also judges and prosecutors were often influ- that the media are as free and self-regula- this field. line increased by almost 4 billion dinars things in Serbia’s public finances, which are On both locations, we offer our guests exclusively the equipment made 27th due to construction work across the board”. complaints of secrecy surrounding the enced either by government or parlia- tory in a broad sense as possible, which in Tax revenues overall will stand at the [€33 million]. Serbia presumably lost some characterised by a serious drop in tax rev- by renowned Italian manufacturer Technogym. We are aware that multi- on the pedestrian walkway. He calls this the “implementation gap”. decision-making process. ments. my view involves increasing the capacities same level as 2013 despite sharp increases lawsuits in the meantime so we now have enue and a significant growth in spending. tasking and clever utilization of every single moment are essential to mod- The lane will be shut every day It affects many fields, but, in his view, “We “The main challenges remain the effi- “It’s a slow transition to what I believe of regulatory and self-regulatory mecha- in almost all tax rates, not just VAT - corpo- to pay for that. At the same time, the state has in- ern living, and that’s the reason why you can, while excercising, check your from 7am to 4pm until the work need to concentrate on several areas - the ciency of the justice system, the independ- will become a self-regulatory process,” he nisms,” he says. rate tax rates and excise taxes were also Expenditure on the procurement of creased almost all taxes, while pursuing email, talk via Skype, leave your status on social networking services, or is finished. The walkway was judiciary and justice system, minority ence of the judiciary and, I would say, the says. “Arguably, the best people to appoint “It is an area in which you want to legis- increased. financial assets is also lowered, which is a policy of making savings. The effects of just watch an episode of your favorite sitcom. Design, functionality and closed in mid-August because rights and anti-discrimination, freedom of professional competence and human judges are judges, so the Judicial Council late and regulate as little as possible while This fact is worrying. Unless the down- generally a good thing. such a policy are nonexistent. The result is high quality of Tecnogym equipment are unmatched. Technogym is our the path was damaged, and the media and freedom of expression and rights knowledge of all professionals in- would comprise judges appointed by their ensuring that the standards are in place,” ward trend in tax collection is stopped, What is noticeable regarding expendi- an additional increase to an already high first choice, because we do not compromise when it comes to the quality democratic standards at local level”. volved in the justice system – prosecutors, peers, not appointed by any other external he remarks. the deficit will continue to grow in coming tures is that roughly 13 billion dinars [€108 budget deficit, which this year will stand reconstruction began after of our services. Serbia launched a process of reform of judges, lawyers, court reporters and the audit. “You make the framework as good as years, in spite of cuts to wages and pen- million] more than originally planned will at almost 225 billion dinars [€1.8 billion], in- a pressure campaign from the judiciary in 2008. But the process has media, which also has a role to play in the “These are questions that many, many possible, and then, within that frame- sions. be spent on subsidies this year, primarily stead of 182 billion dinars [€1.5 billion]. cyclists, who put an inscription proven bumpy. In 2010, more then a thou- efficiency of justice and how court proce- member states grapple with. Judicial ap- work encourage journalistic and media The trend also points to a decline in peo- on public companies undergoing restruc- The planned savings that are supposed on the bridge saying “Fix me”, sand judges and prosecutors were axed, dures are reported,” Cartwright says. pointment is very seldom genuinely set responsibility and professionalism,” he ple’s purchasing power. turing. to be made via wage and pension cuts will signed “Your Branko’s Bridge”. only to be reappointed in 2012, after the Serbia is not the first member of the in stone,” says Cartwright, adding there concludes. On the other hand, non-tax revenues On the other hand, the savings that will have a double-negative effect - the cuts are set to increase by approximately 6.5 be made by cutting public sector wages themselves are negative because they per cent. This is generally a good thing. are supposed to amount to 11.5 billion downgrade expenditures, while on the However, looking at the structure of this dinars [€95 million]. So, the savings from other hand all the money saved this way increase, practically all of it comes from cuts to public sector wages will all go on will be spent on subsidies to state-owned nez Mihailova might be the most famous street in the budget line called “revenue from increased subsidies. companies. Belgrade, but not many people have come across its the sale of non-financial assets”. In other As of November 1st, public sector pay The country will only be able to get a hidden detail – a brass plaque fixed into the ground at words, assets sold off to patch holes in the exceeding 25,000 dinars [€209] will be clearer picture of the government’s own the very beginning of the street. The plaque pays trib- budget. lowered by 10 per cent and pensions by up assessment of what the results of these ute to the workers who reconstructed Knez Mihailo- The conclusion is that, compared to to 22 per cent, depending on the size of the policies will be when it gets to see the 2015 va after World War II. It reads: “Fighting to create and what was planned, tax revenues will fall pensions. Budget Law. This should be presented in Kensure a more comfortable life for the workers of Belgrade, the capital significantly this year because the econ- In addition, the budget prescribes a sig- November. of socialist Yugoslavia, youth work brigades from all over Yugoslavia omy is entering a recession, living stand- nificant increase in money transfers to the reconstructed this street from August to October 1949.” ards have fallen, and the “grey” economy National Health Insurance Fund, RFZO. Goran Radosavljević is professor of in certain fields, such as the tobacco sector, The Budget Law envisaged a small trans- public finances at Faculty of Economy and has grown. fer of not more than 600 million dinars [€5 Finances, FEFA. Hidden Belgrade 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 31 - Thursday, November 13, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 31 - Thursday, November 13, 2014 9 REGION OUT AND ABOUT Romania expects president to turn page in history Smederevo, Romania’s next working life as a teacher. He entered a complete surprise, as both lead- politics in 2000, when he became the ers have a long history of disputes, Serbia’s window into mayor of the Transylvanian city of which culminated in a failed refer- president may not Sibiu, Hermannstadt in German. His endum on the impeachment of Bas- change much in managerial skills as mayor and a repu- escu in July 2012. tation for honesty in one of the Europe- Observers say Romania needs a day-to-day politics, an Union’s most corrupt member states President who can not only support the the Middle Ages expedited his rapid rise up the political independence of the justice system but but whoever it ladder. also to act as a check on the otherwise Sibiu was established by ethnic Ger- dominant ruling parties. is, he will at least man settlers, known as Saxons, in the The presidential elections are impor- 12th century and was Europe’s Capital of tant because while the Prime Minister mark a symbolic Culture in 2007. Ethnic Germans once takes most executive decisions in Ro- had a strong presence in Transylvania, mania, the President has a number of departure from the after the region’s former Hungarian rul- significant prerogatives, including the ers invited them to settle the area in right to nominate the Prime Minister, communist era. the Middle Ages. But the communist the chiefs of intelligence services and regime encouraged mass emigration the heads of anti-corruption bodies. in the early 1970s, which continued the A European Commission study pub- fall of the regime in 1989. lished in February says that, despite Marian CHIRIAC Iohannis has constructed his elec- many improvements, the political will toral campaign by playing on his ethnic to address corruption and promote ecember 22nd will be a German background and the commu- high standards of integrity is still “in- special day for Romani- nity’s reputation for efficiency. He has consistent”. ans this year. The people promoted himself as a “man of deeds”, Recent high-profile arrests and a of the Balkan country and as a supporter of economic reform, sharp increase in indictments for cor- will not only celebrate 25 backed by international lenders, under ruption-related crimes have pointed to yearsD since the overthrow of the com- a European Union umbrella. an increased determination on the part munist regime; it will also be the first Many of his campaign prom- of the judiciary and anti-graft authori - day in office of the country’s new Presi- ises seem bland. According to Emil ties to combat corruption in Romania. dent. Hurezeanu, an analyst, this blandness In October, the vice-president of the And, for the first time in recent his- is seen as the best way to gather vot- lower house of parliament resigned from tory, this President, whoever it is, will ers who are disgruntled with politi- his post following accusations of corrup- have no affiliation whatever to the for- cians they perceive as corrupt. “He is tion. Prosecutors are also investigating a mer ruling Communist Party. introverted, modest and a tradition- case involving Ilie Sarbu, a Senator who According to the opinion polls, Victor alist,” Hurezeanu says. “His attraction is also Prime Minister Ponta’s father-in- Ponta, 41, the current Prime Minister, lies in the fact that this is how many law, who is accused of helping to organ- whose Social Democratic Party, PSD, is people here see the Germans and ise the illegal transfer of 43,000 hectares by far the largest political force in Ro- their values.” of forest to third parties in 2012. mania, will win the race. From many points of view, Ponta is “The wave of harsh sentences against Latest data suggest that Ponta will get a total opposite to Iohannis. A former leading Romanian politicians is part of around 40 per cent of the votes in the prosecutor who speaks fluent English an unprecedented offensive by the ju- first round on November 2nd, well ahead and French, Ponta entered politics ear- diciary, which is good and necessary,” of the likely runner up, the candidate of ly, becoming Romania’s youngest Prime political analyst Gabriel Bejan said, the rightist opposition coalition, Klaus Minister in May 2012 at the age of 39. said. “On the other hand, pressure from Iohannis. Ponta is then expected to Observers attribute his fast rise to be- politicians and high-ranking officials to View of the Danube from the Jerina Tower. Photo by Fif’/Flickr win the run-off, which takes place two ing a close ally to Adrian Nastase, former end this campaign is increasing.” weeks later. Prime Minister and PSD leader, who The next President will also play a piv- Since 1990, Romania has had three served two terms in jail for corruption. otal role in appointing a government line- something that “Smederevci”, as people Branković’s wife, Irene Kantakouzene, different presidents, all of them with a Shortly after his appointment, Ponta up to oversee IMF-backed reform under This ancient in Smederevo are called, are especially who originally came from a noble Greek Communist background. Ion Iliescu, came under fire from academics who a 4-billion-euros standby deal. A review proud of – the winding riverbed of the family. According to opinion polls, Victor Ponta will win the race. Photo by Andrei Pungovschi head of state from 1990 to 1996 and accused him of having plagiarised large of the loan deal has been postponed riverside city, Danube. “No one called her Irene. People 2000 to 2004, was a member of the parts of his 2003 doctoral thesis. Although more jobs, bigger salaries and pensions, port of people who feel that Basescu is pending the outcome of the ballot. If you get off the bus at the main bus called her ‘Damned Jerina’ or ‘Jerina old ruling party’s Central Commit- he denied the charges, calling them “politi- but also changes to the constitution, both impulsive and divisive. “After years of economic downturn and founded by the station, the first must-see is the fortress. the Cursed,’” Milica recalls, as we sit on tee. Emil Constantinescu, president cal attacks”, several independent univer- which would clarify the duties of the The incumbent head of state on political turmoil, Romania needs more Located on the Danube, like many medi- the bench, looking around the fortress. from 1996 to 2000, and Traian Bas- sity panels have confirmed that he copy- President, the government, parliament October 13th accused Ponta of having stability and a President able to guaran- despots, has a eval strongholds, it is right across from the “There were many rumours concern- escu, from 2004 to now, were both pasted large parts of the text. and the local authorities. worked an undercover intelligence tee that democratic institutions are really railway line. ing her life,” she continues with a serious The “small city“ of the Smederevo Fortress. Photo by Chiara Flickr low-ranking members of the party at Ponta has run a vocal campaign for Ponta has also promised to be a “less agent when he was a prosecutor in functioning,” analyst Emil Hurezeanu says. lot more to it After you pass the gate and step inside look on her face, “although not many of some point. the presidential elections. His main slo- aggressive” President than the current 1997-1998. The accusation, which “Otherwise, the ideals for which thousands the walls of the fortress, you find a huge these have been confirmed by historical For his part, Klaus Iohannis, 55, is an gan is “Proud to be Romanian”, prom- holder of that office, Traian Basescu. In was clearly intended to undermine of people died in anti-communist revolu- than a troubled area full of trees, people jogging and oth- sources. TERRIBLE EXPLOSION rounded by small buildings on one side ethnic German who spent most of his ising a better life for people, including this way, he is trying to enlist the sup- Ponta’s campaign, did not come as tion will be forgotten.” ers walking dogs or playing with children. “The whole fortress was built in two and by the Higher Court on the other. steelworks – Old people like to stroll here, too. Milica, years, meaning that people came from all As we leave the fortress and pass the Close to the main square is a pedes- a 78-year-old I met at the entrance, says over Serbia to Smederevo to work,” Milica railway lines, my companion stops and trian zone, named after King Peter, starting with a visiting the fortress is especially breath- says continuing the story. “But people looks towards the stronghold, pointing to called Kralja Petra Street. On a sunny taking in autumn, as the park is full of blamed her for causing hardship, for im- some damaged, half-ruined towers. These day, the cafés located on both sides of romantic fortress golden leaves that crunch under your posing taxes, and for forcing workers to are casualties of more recent conflicts. the street are full. Walking down Kralja feet. Entering the fortress is like open- build the fortress as fast as possible.” “On June 5th 1941, at 2:14pm, the muni- Petra eventully brings you to the Dan- that is shrouded ing the door that leads back into the lost In reality, Jerina could not have been tions that the German occupiers had ube promenade. world of the Middle Ages. the main culprit for this hardship, as her stored inside the fortress, detonated, If you are lucky and the weather is fine, with myths and role in building the fortress was fairly causing a huge explosion,” Milica says. sit on the bench and enjoy the view. You CURSED QUEEN minimal. It was Đurađ’s fault - but blaming “Around 3, 000 people were killed and can buy popcorn here from the traders Modern city hotel in a perfect location legends. Jerina, a foreigner, is always easier, this the whole town was covered in dust,” she that are stationed almost everywhere. Although Smederevo was first men- proud local observes. adds. Or, you can grab your popcorn and head tioned in 1019, it was not until 1430 that “Serbian poems have always described “This huge monument across the street down the promenade, enjoying the view the city became famous. That was the her as a malicious and mean person, was erected in the name of all the people of the Danube and the fortress. Ivana NIKOLIĆ year when the fortress was built, as the whose caprice was to build this strong- who lost their lives during the explosion,” Another thing that you will come headquarters of the last rulers of inde- hold,” the woman explains. she continues. “Every year, the top stu- across here is groups of elderly people 21000 Novi Sad, Serbia here are two ways to get from pendent Serbia before the Ottoman con- Still, some folk clearly respected her, dents in Smederevo place flowers on the playing bocce, outdoor bowling, which is Ilije Ognjanovica 24 Belgrade to Smederevo, quest. These rulers were known as des- as one of the towers of the castle is called monument.” a popular pastime throughout the former by car or bus. My personal pots. The modern founder of the town “The tower of Jerina.” Then we separate, and Milica slowly Yugoslavia, especially among retirees. Phone: +381(0)21/66-15-555 preference is the bus, not was despot Đurađ Branković, who ruled For the last five years, this small river- heads towards the market. She will soon The promenade is a good place to take because of the price, but be- until his death in 1456. side city has hosted both international be back. She says she has been visiting in the architectural legacy of Yugoslav Fax : +381(0)21/422-652 Tcause buses are a good way to learn more Serbia lost its independence three and domestic theatre festivals, due to the the fortress every morning for the last 50 Communism – a mass of huge white and about Serbian people and culture. years later in 1459 when the Ottomans acoustic environment and historic sur- years. grey Communist-era buildings, ringing [email protected] The bus to Smederevo will definitely formally annexed the despot’s land, roundings of the fortress, as well as the Like every other town or small city in the “city on the Danube.” [email protected] be full of students and commuters – and taking advantage of dissension among magnificent view of the Danube. Serbia, Smederevo also has a spacious My reverie is interrupted by the bowl- [email protected] the ride takes no longer than an hour. Branković’s widow and three remaining The fortress is also a favourite place main square with a large church and ers. “Hey, I won!” one of them can be heard Avoid the bus that uses the highway; sons. for youngsters, and many techno and fountain in the centre. telling his companion. “But don’t get mad, www.hotelputnik.rs the ones that run through villages offer One of the most controversial char- electronic parties take place here during As the weather is nice, families with we’ll play again tomorrow and I will let a lot more – beautiful countryside and acters in Serbian history was despot summer. children are all around. The square is sur- you win!” 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 31 - Thursday, November 13, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 31 - Thursday, November 13, 2014 11 ARTS DINING OUT

Kronos Quartet plays Opera, Ballet Belgrade double-date and Classical Villa The Kronos Quartet will hold a FRIDAY NOVEMBER 31st concert on November 6th at the Sava Free Zone Belgrade Philharmonic with Mihai Tang Maska Flower power Centre to kick off new European – conductor and Valeri Sokolov – violin, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg

tour, with a second date the follow- Arts in brief

5, 8pm Corner Wine ing night at the Serbian National It always begins Theatre. The first show will focus on SATURDAY NOVEMBER 1st focuses on with a simple classical music created during World BUNT Festival: Choirs in honour of meets serious War I, with compositions by Ravel, Mokranjac, Lola Academic Cultural Artistic question: ‘Can you Society, Resavska 11, 7:30pm Stravinsky and Rachmaninoff. The bring me the wine second will feature a film to accom- SUNDAY NOVEMBER 2nd pany the quartet, ‘Beyond Zero’ by cinematic list’? Everything BUNT Festival: Vesna Stanković and American director Bill Morrison, with Friends, Lola Academic Cultural Artistic else that follows is cooking music written by Serbian composer Society, Resavska 11, 8pm a complex matter, Aleksandra Vrebalov. WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 5th and cannot be Russian ballet brings delights Opera: Madame Butterfly, The National th Theatre, Francuska 1, 7pm measured only by 20 century classics BUNT Festival: Bach in Lola, Lola Academic Cultural Artistic Society, how much is left Resavska 11, 8pm On November 12th, the Rus- Most people in the bottle after sian Imperial Ballet will perform THURSDAY NOVEMBER 6th two famed works in one night, who have heard dinner. Ballet: Alexander, The National Theatre, Maurice Ravel’s ‘Bolero’ and of Free Zone Francuska 1, 7:30pm Rodion Shchedrin’s ‘Carmen’. The SATURDAY NOVEMBER 8th performance, featuring some of (Slobodna Zona) Pavle GOLICIN the finest dancers in Russia, will Opera: The Barber of Seville, The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm take place at Sava Centre. The know it as a film illa Maska BUNT Festival: Bizjak sisters piano duo, Imperial Ballet was founded in festival that takes Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg does not wear 1994 to showcase the best that 5, 8pm any masks. A cozy, laid-back Russian ballet has to offer. As place in Belgrade WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 12th well as its virtuoso dancers, the place in the every November. Ballet: La Bayadere, The National Theatre, VračarV neighbourhood, it troupe is also known for having Francuska 1, 7:30pm some of the most extravagant provides a good mainstream In fact, it’s much offer in terms of both food and elegant costumes and visu- Exhibitions and drink. It is, in fact, both a als, directly from the Bolshoi and more than that. and Events bar and a restaurant, stand- Mariinsky Theatres. ing somewhere in-between, Free Zone, as FRIDAY OCTOBER 31st which makes it suitable for Cuban music festival an organisation, Exhibition: Sakari Viika, photographs, any occasion. dances into town Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, The wine list in Maska 7pm works around contains all the usual sus- The spirit of Cuba will be alive SATURDAY NOVEMBER 1st pects of wines available in in the Serbian capital during the the year to help Serbia at the lower-middle Exhibition: Travelling Exhibition of range level. Of the approxi- Havana en Belgrado Festival, promote great Words, Uroboros Gallery, Kralja Milana 13, which takes place at the Student 7pm mately 50 labels, domestic and regional wines from Cultural Centre, Hotel Park, DKS th films across the TUESDAY NOVEMBER 4 the ex-Yugoslav countries Majdan and Theatre 78 from dominate the list. This is th th country. Exhibition: Vladimir Sekulić, Studentski November 7 -10 . Apart from Grad Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana even more so if you look at parties, visitors will also have a Đinđića 179, 7pm the selection available by chance to sign up for a Rueda the glass. The only excep- FRIDAY NOVEMBER 7th dancing competition and to com- tion in the company of less pete for a €1000 prize. During Takeaway Fashion, Grad Cultural Centre, than 10 ex-Yugoslav wines is The décor may the garden is laid back, with plenty of and cheese, came ideally prepared and and it is difficult to stand out in this eclec- the day there will be workshops Braće Krsmanović 4, 5pm an Italian Prosecco. shade, and formidable in size. served with a hint of flair – diagonally cut, tic environment. Everyone fits. Villa Maska is both a club and a restau- resting on the potato chips foundation Maska is a place of great style, which with well-known dancers who SUNDAY NOVEMBER 9th Small bottles are avail- be quirky but rant - a place with more than one identity. and accompanied by tartar sauce in a fan- through the years has demonstrated ad- will teach participants some of able as well, so I took the Belgrade Behance Reviews, Mikser House, opportunity to check this In the evening, it is a club with fairly loud cy dish. Such effort in basic culinary disci- mirable resistance to daily fashions and the most famous Cuban dances, Karađorđeva 46, 3pm choice out, without going the food is all too music, often performed live, to crowds pline - the plain but delicious chicken and trends. The food is very good, sometimes while each night will end with an th of students and other young and not so chips - left us craving for more. great, and so is the service. A place to re- th MONDAY NOVEMBER 10 into food and wine pairing after-party. On November 8 , Pupy this time, confirming my solid and reliable young. By day, it is a restaurant and a cof- Another main course that we tried was lax and have something good to eat, not to & Los que Son Son will perform Exhibition: Tohoku – In the Eyes of opinion that the improve- fee shop, slower in pace but even more “Turkey Ascoli”. Served on an abundant see and be seen… Come to think of it, not live traditional Cuban music. Japanese Photographers, Progres Gallery, at Villa Maska, Zmaj Jovina 8, 6pm ment of wine culture in Ser- exotic and quirky, thanks to its unique in- portion of gnocchi, the grilled turkey fil- many places in town fit that description. bia will ultimately depend terior. The offer of African and Indian ar- lets came seasoned with aromatic herbs The icing on the cake is the car parked th where classic Belgrade art students WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 13 on the quality of low-priced tefacts has long broadened out to include and accompanied by a honey and cinna- right in front of Villa Maska - completely show city’s charms Exhibition: Srđan Veljović, Students wines that are available in meat dishes original furniture and artistic decorative mon sauce. A fine grilled dish, if a bit pale covered in green grass and yellow flowers. Cultural Centre, Kralja Milana 48, 7pm small bottles. Either that, or pieces, mostly made of wood or wrought compared to the previous two. Not many places in the world have that! ‘Belgrade – City of Wonders’ features consumers will continue to are done to iron, manufactured locally by Maska. In general, the long and elaborate art pieces made by Belgrade art Theatre mostly opt for beer and fruit Our last visit (obviously, Villa Maska has menu is best described as a solid and safe VILLA MASKA liquors instead of wine in students who were tasked with find- FRIDAY OCTOBER 31st perfection. seen us before) took place on a lazy, sunny international mix. There are plenty of Address: Rankeova 7, Beograd ing the best way to promote the city café bars. Sunday afternoon, so we took full advan- recommendations in the on-line sources, Phone: +381 11 244 60 12 The service in Maska is through billboards, posters and ad- The Lady of the Camellias, (Dumas, fils), Duda & Vlada tage of the summer garden. An ideal start- and a lot of them mention memorable Working hours: 10 am – 2 am (varies The National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm good, neither great nor bad, vertisements for the city’s campaign er for the late summer season, we thought, pizzas and pasta dishes – something to slightly between workdays and reflecting the usual offer of SATURDAY NOVEMBER 1st ore than a decade ago, had to be mix of cheese and fruit. Grapes, try when our paths cross again. the weekend) for the European Culture Capital the young labour force in after opening a small black and white, came accompanied by Being in the mixed-age bracket our- 2020. The exhibition will be open Milk (Katsikounouris), Belgrade Drama Serbia. In other words, the th Theatre, Mileševska 64, 8:30pm shop selling African black and green olives, cherry tomatoes, selves, we fully appreciated the diverse Restaurant working hours: until November 7 at the Belgrade job will be done but don’t and Indian handicrafts, walnuts and cheeses of different sorts: crowd that Maska attracts. Not only age- 10 am – 11 pm (varies) Arena art hall, Makedonska 29. TUESDAY NOVEMBER 4th expect anyone to go the extra mile. a couple of young entre- hard yellow, green mould, white goat, etc. wise, it is difficult to define Maska in terms Death and the Dervish (Selimović), The Mpreneurs set a chain of events in motion. Together with a regular Greek salad, it was of its visitors. Young companies, older Price Guide: 2,000-2,500 dinars [ Art show revisits National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm Maska remains a safe Socialist-era option – firmly positioned in I wonder if their original vision included a great starter for a company of three. couples, whole families, just boys, solo €16-€21 ] per person for three courses Yugoslavia WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 5th the middle of the restaurant yours truly - humble food columnists “Maska steak” is the main dish recom- girls – all social layers are represented, without wine David GALIĆ The 2014 line-up once again includes newcomer Ellar Coltrane, as the audi- category in Belgrade – a - writing reviews about their food some- mended by patrons and staff alike. We August: Osage County (Letts), Atelje 212, an excellent mix of documentaries and ence watches the child grow from a boy where down the line. But that is how it has will join the chorus – the house steak is An exhibition featuring master- Svetogorska 21, 8pm place you can go without a mong the many activi- features, kicking off at the Sava Centre to a young adult before their eyes. second thought, any time turned out. an alternative, fairly complex variation pieces by 50 artists from the th ties that Free Zone runs, with “20,000 Days on Earth“, a partly Other films of note are Ukrainian FRIDAY NOVEMBER 7 of day. The original shop in Belgrade, named that is well worth trying if you are a fan of former Yugoslavia will be on show ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ one of the best is its tour- documentary and partly fictional film director Miroslav Slaboshpitsky’s ‘The Mother Courage and Her Children “The Mask”, spawned a coffee shop of red meat. Marinated, the steak is briefly ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” at the Belgrade Contemporary ing film show, which is on that follows singer Nick Cave around Tribe’, which tells the story of deaf chil- (Bretcht), The National Theatre, Francuska ~ ~ ~ the same name. The coffee shop shared grilled, wrapped in pastry in company th RESTURANT KOVAČ Art Museum until December 7 . the road all year show- for a period of 24 hours. dren at a boarding school for children 1, 7:30pm the same exotic interior style as its older with sautéed mushrooms and mozzarella Visitors will have a chance to see modern ethno restaurant ingA the best documentary and feature Also showing is one of the most with special needs, and a new docu- SUNDAY NOVEMBER 9th Basic Info Rating sibling - and its mercantile nature. If you cheese, and baked in a furnace. The pack- works created between 1951 films of the year in towns and cities all hyped films of the year, ‘Boyhood’, mentary from Wim Wenders called fancy a piece of furniture or decoration, age, which looks like a large bread bun but Othello (Shakespeare), Yugoslav Drama and 1989 by Marina Abramović, around Serbia. Free Zone works from which gets its Belgrade premiere on the ‘The Salt of the Earth’, which has been you can buy it on the spot. is much, much more, is served alongside Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm Overall Good Petar Lubarda, Julije Knifer, January to December in Belgrade as second to last night of the festival. created almost entirely from black and Villa Maska is the third venue to spring a zucchini “gondola” with almonds and th Raša Todosijević and others. The well, showing films twice a month at the ‘Boyhood’ is unlike any movie that white photos. MONDAY NOVEMBER 10 Wine selection Good from this original vision. Situated in a feta cheese. Thanks to the way it is pre- Contemporary Art Museum, which Rex Cultural Centre. has ever been shot before, featuring The festival will take place at a vari- The Government Inspector (Gogol), Atelje Wine service Average 1920s villa in the old residential neighbor- pared, the steak is very tender and juicy. 212, Svetogorska 21, 8pm has been closed for renovation for But the main attraction is still the an- the same cast filmed over a period of ety of venues around the city, including Wine pricing €12 - €85 hood of Neimar, it is a large place with an Well worth the recommendation. seven years, says the exhibition is nual festival, which will take place at 12 years. Starring Patricia Arquette and the Sava Centre, the Belgrade Cultural WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 12th (up to €185 including Champagne) impressive garden. The interior is dense- To keep things in balance, our next intended to test the ground for its several locations around the city be- Ethan Hawke, the movie follows a fam- Centre, the Yugoslav Film Archive and ly packed with artefacts and handicrafts choice was as classic as could be. Bread- Bulevar Oslobodjenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com tween November 7th and 12th this year. ily, in particular their son, played by Dom Omladine. Dragonslayers (Marković), Yugoslav Wine and food pairing Good from Africa and India, as expected, and ed fillet of chicken, stuffed with ham expected reopening in the future. Drama Theatre, Kralja Milana 50, 8pm 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 31 - Thursday, November 13, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 31 - Thursday, November 13, 2014 13 WHAT’S ON ON THE SPOT

• Taboo bend, Kafana Druga Kuća, • 90s night, Mr Stefan Braun, • Black Acoustic (pop/rock and soul), Vojvode Dobrnjca 34, 10pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm Madlenianum Venezuelan culture • Xiu Xiu, Dom Omladine, Makedonska • Karaoke Night, Caffe Bar Iron, • Marko Žujović, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, CLUBBING 22, 10pm Obilićev Venac 24, 10pm Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, • John Langford, Grad Cultural Centre, to adapt a horsey comes to town AND LIVE MUSIC 9pm WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 12th Braće Krsmanović 4, 8pm • Muzički voz, Red Shoes, Ada Ciganlija, classic Week of Venezuelan Culture in Belgrade 10pm • Disco House, Mr Stefan Braun, THURSDAY NOVEMBER 13th Nemanjina 4, 11pm started with the exhibition “Art and Revo- FRIDAY OCTOBER 31st • Propast, Sekhmet, Svartgren, FRIDAY NOVEMBER 7th • Disco, KST, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra • Badversion Launch Party, Grad he acting troupe at the Madle- lution” in the Ethnographic Museum. Dia Kolac, Vehementer, Dom Omladine, 73, 10pm Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, nianum Opera and Theatre is ANader de el Andari, the Venezuelan am- • Yor, Drugstore, Bulevar Despota Makedonska 22, 9pm • Pfirter, Svemirska Kafana boat on • Karaoke, Witch Bar, Kumanovska 14, 10pm preparing a new drama and bassador to Serbia, told the opening ceremony that Stefana 115, 11pm • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, Sava, 11pm 10pm • RnB and Hip Hop Night, Mr Stefan dance performance, “They the week was a great way for people to encounter • GO2 Halloween, Belexpo Center, T 9pm • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar • Ring Ring Extended: Made To Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Shoot Horses, Don’t They?”, based on and exchange cultural heritage. Španskih Boraca 34, 11pm • Dušica Novaković and friends Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm Break, Rex, Jevrejska 16, 8pm • Back To The Future, KST, Bulevar Horace McCoy’s 1935 classic, which • Freak Show Party, Depo Magacin (cabaret), Tramvaj Pub, Ruzveltova • Mash Up or Shut Up, Povetarac boat • Fates Warning, HeadLess, Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm became a Hollywood movie in 1969. Travnička 13, 11pm 2, 10pm on Sava river, 11pm , Dom Omladine, , Witch Bar, Asymmetry • Flashback 80s Theatre lovers will have a chance to see • Bege Fank, KPTM, Žorža Klemansoa • Džoni i Workeri, Ona Moja, Vojvode • Angels Night, Angels, Pariska 1, 11pm Makedonska 22, 9pm Kumanovska 14, 10pm the premiere on November 28th and on 22, 11pm Šupljikca 31a, 10pm • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, nd • Edit: Techno Halloween, Svemirska • Nevena Stojanović Nency, Kafana 9pm 9pm 9pm December 2 . The actors include many Kafana boat on Sava, 11pm Sipaj Ne Pitaj, Bulevar Vojvode Mišića • Fullhouse and DJ, Red Shoes, Ada • Duo Rouz, Red Shoes, Ada Ciganlija, • Muzički voz, Red Shoes, Ada Ciganlija, of Serbia’s best-known stars of the stage, • DJ Philips Blue, Industrija Bar, 11, 10pm Ciganlija, 10pm 10pm 10pm including Miloš Milić and Iskra Brajović. Karađorđeva 23, 11pm • RnB Night, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, 10pm • House Party, Mr Stefan Braun, The director is Boris Todorović. • House Party, Mr Stefan Braun, Nemanjina4, 11pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm MONDAY NOVEMBER 3rd • White City Band, Kafana Druga Kuća, • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar Vojvode Dobrnjca 34, 10pm Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm • Nikola Grbić Grba & Tintus bend • Halloween Rock Special: Instead (domestic pop/rock, ), Tramvaj Pub, SATURDAY NOVEMBER 8th KOLARAC of a Kill, Boneyard, Cyreign, Dot The Ruzveltova 2, 10pm Eye, Embrace The Silence, Božidarac, • Unplugged Duo, Red Shoes, Ada • Bass Base Mikser Fest, Mikser House, PROGRAMME Radoslava Grujića 3, 8pm Ciganlija, 10pm Karađorđeva 46, 11pm • Riblja Čorba unplugged, Sava Centre, • Celebrities’ Humanitarian Night, Mr • Hector Oaks, Grad Cultural Centre, Milentija Popovića 9, 8:30pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Braće Krsmanović 4, 11pm • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, • Saša Kapor and Ljupka Stević, • Flegma, KPTM, Žorža Klemansoa 22, 9pm Teatro Bar, Sarajevska 26, 10pm 11pm • House in Space - Winter Season • Destiny Night, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, • Beatmasters, Povetarac boat on Sava SATURDAY, 1ST SATURDAY, 8TH Opening, Babel bar, Takovska 45a, 10pm river, 11pm Concert Hall, 8 pm Music Gallery, 6pm 10pm • Miša Laguna and Friends, Club • ‘90s + Silent Disco, KST, Bulevar Kralja Belgrade Music Festival Encounter with Dejan Despić – Edition • Peronski Halloween Specijal, Peron Santo Domingo Bar, Vojvode Šupljikca Aleksandra 73, 10pm RTS Symphony Orchestra Brandstaütter Conductor: Bojan Suđić Participants: Borislav Čičovački, Jasna Savamala, Braće Krsmanović, 10pm 31, 10pm • Atheist Rap, Božidarac, Radoslava Programme: Rachmaninoff Miličić – Brandstatter & Author Grujića 3, 9pm Production: CEBEF Admission free st th SATURDAY NOVEMBER 1 TUESDAY NOVEMBER 4 • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, Ticket Price: 600, 800, 1, 000 9pm SATURDAY, 8TH • Ilian Tape Label Night, Drugstore, • Iggy and Mima Stardust (pop night), • Smreksi home rock, Tramvaj Pub, SUNDAY, 2ND Concert Hall, 8pm Bulevar Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Tramvaj Pub, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm Ruzveltova 2, 10pm Concert Hall, 11am Piano Duo Bizjak Sisters • Salsa Saturday Night Fever, Mikser • Lili Bend, Red Shoes, Ada Ciganlija, • Porfesori Band and DJ, Red Shoes, Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Chamber Music Programme: S.Barber, C.Nancarrow/T. Vicious House, Karađorđeva 46, 11pm 10pm Ada Ciganlija, 10pm Trio Robert Lakatoš Adès, W.Bolcom, F.Rzewski, L.Bernstein Programme: Hayden, Rachmaninoff, Production: Festival Bunt • 5th vinilijada Vinyl Party, Grad Cultural , Mr Stefan Braun, , Mr Stefan Braun, • 90s night • House Party Shostakovich Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 10pm party thrown at Nemanjina 4, 11pm Nemanjina4, 11pm Producton: Music Centre SUNDAY, 9TH Stars come • Funky House, Industrija Bar, • Karaoke Night, Caffe Bar Iron, • Technopolis 2: Specific Measure, Admission free Concert Hall, 11am Karađorđeva 23, 11pm Obilićev Venac 24, 10pm Cultural Centre Grad, Braće Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Chamber the Drugstore • House Party, Mr Stefan Braun, • Gothic Night, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, Krsmanović 4, 11pm SUNDAY, 2ND Music out for Belgrade Nemanjina 4, 11pm 10pm Concert Hall, 8pm Piano duo Rustem Saitkulov & Katarina ice Magazine threw a party at Drug- • Beatmasters, Povetarac boat on Sava, • Peđa and Endži, Kafana Druga Kuća, SUNDAY NOVEMBER 9th Guslar Society Student Pipović Mišić Fashion Week store on October 25th to mark the open- 11pm Vojvode Dobrnjca 34, 10pm The Evening of the Gusle Programme: Arensky, ing of their offices in Serbia. The night Production: Guslar Society Student Chopin,Tchaikovsky th • ‘80s, KST, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra , Kafana Ona Moja, udiences at the 36 Belgrade Fashion • Marko Bulat • Dušica Novaković and friends Ticket Price: 500, 00 Production: Music Centre started with a concert by the group 73, 10pm Week, which gathers many promi- V Vojvode Šupljikca 31a, 10pm (cabaret), Tramvaj Pub, Ruzveltova 2, Admission free Repetitor, and ended with other well-known mu- • Riblja Čorba unplugged, Sava Centre, 10pm TUESDAY, 4TH nent fashionistas from the country sicians, including London’s Mike Skinner. Milentija Popovića 9, 8:30pm WEDNESDAY NOVEMBER 5th • Full House Band and DJ Marko, Mr Music Gallery, 6pm SUNDAY, 9TH and the region, had a chance to • Space Eater, Dom Omladine, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm About the Art of Enriko Josif & Dušan A Concert Hall, 8pm see many interesting collections - and many Radić RTS Symphony Orchestra Makedonska 22, 9pm • Disco House, Mr Stefan Braun, • Full House Night Molokini, Pariska famous Belgraders as well. Among the well- • Vlada Divljan & Ljetno Kino, Dom Nemanjina 4, 11pm 1, 11pm Participants: Gorica Pilipović, Katarina Conductor: Bojan Suđić Radovanović – Jeremić Soloist: Francisco Pacho Flores, trumpet known guests were the actors Branka Pujić and Omladine, Makedonska 22, 9pm • Duo Rouz, Red Shoes, Ada Ciganlija, • Tamburaši, Tri šešira, Skadarska 28, Production: Festival Bunt Guests: School for music talents, Ćuprija Dejan Lutkić and the journalist Sandra Perović. • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, 10pm 9pm Admission free Programme: Grieg, Neruda, Schedrin As Sweden was this year’s special guest at Fash- 9pm • Karaoke, Witch Bar, Kumanovska 14, • Džoni i Workeri, Ona Moja, Vojvode Production: Music Production RTS ion Week, Swedish ambassador Christer Asp • DŽ DŽ, Babel bar, Takovska 45a, 10pm 10pm Šupljikca 31a, 10pm TUESDAY, 4TH Ticket Price: 300, 500, 700 • Smreksi home rock, Tramvaj Pub, • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, • Neša Jovanović and Kristina Music Gallery, 8pm was also present. Ruzveltova 2, 10pm 9pm Kuzmanovska, Kafana Ko To Tamo Concert „Firestorm“ MONDAY, 10TH • EKV and Haustor, Klub Studenata Peva, Cetinjska, 10pm Programme: Enriko Concert Hall, 8pm SUNDAY NOVEMBER 2nd Tehnike, KST, 10pm Josif and Dušan Radić Teofilović Twins (vocals) & Miroslav Production: Festival Bunt Tadić, guitar • Cowgirls Night – DJ Cholack, Coyote MONDAY NOVEMBER 10th Admission free Production: Long Play , Mr • Full House Band and DJ Marko Bar, Višnjićeva 9, 10pm Ticket Price: 1, 200 Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Black Acoustic (pop/rock and soul), • Unplugged Duo, Red Shoes, Ada WEDNESDAY, 5TH • Full House Night Molokini, Pariska Tramvaj, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm Ciganlija, 10pm Music Gallery, 6pm WEDNESDAY, 12TH 1, 11pm • Marko Žujović, Kafana Sipaj Ne Pitaj, • Tamburaši, Tri Šešira, Skadarska 28, Cycle: Music Workshop Music Gallery, 6pm Bulevar Vojvode Mišića 11, 10pm 9pm Nikola Marković, piano Cycle: Music Workshop • Destiny Night, Witch Bar, Pariska 13, Programme: J.S. Bach – The Goldberg Miljana Đorđević and Marko Đorđević THURSDAY NOVEMBER 6th 10pm Variations Programme: Mendelssohn Production: Music Centre Production: Music Centre • ASSAHRA’ TRIO, Dom Kulture Admission free Admission free • DJ Mirko & Meex, Industrija Bar, Studentski Grad, Bulevar Zorana Karađorđeva 23, 11pm Đinđića 179, 8pm SATURDAY, 8TH FRIDAY, 14TH • RnB and Hip Hop Night, Mr Stefan • Braća Teofilović and Miroslav Music Gallery, 12am Concert Hall, 8pm FREE COPY Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Tadić, Kolarčeva Zadužbina, Knock, knock Kolarac Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra • Let There Be Rock, KST, Bulevar Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Music Workshop for Children - How to Mladen Jagušt’s 90TH birthday Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm Make Music Conductor: Mladen Jagušt Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Bojan Ivković (VKV Boki) Mozart, Tchaikovsky, Brahms • Flashback 80s, Witch Bar, TUESDAY NOVEMBER 11th Autohor: Programme: Production: Music Centre Production: Belgrade Philharmonic Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Kumanovska 14, 10pm Admission free Ticket Price: 500, 00 Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 • John McLaughlin, Dom Sindikata, • Lili Bend, Red Shoes, Ada Ciganlija, Dečanska 14, 8pm 10pm Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić • Tarja, Crimson Blue, Students Cultural • Iggy and Mima Stardust (pop night), BIRN editorial team: Centre, Kralja Milana 48, 9:30pm Tramvaj Pub, Ruzveltova 2, 10pm Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, Gordana Andrić [email protected] Verica Rakočević Jazz icons sound Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović Phone: +381 11 4030 302 closes glamour last notes at festival [email protected] TRATTORIA week egendary jazz musicians Charles Lloyd and Subscription & Distribution: PIZZERIA Michel Camilo performed on the final night Goran Knezevic ne of Serbia’s most prominent fashion of Belgrade’s favourite jazz get-together in +381 11 4030 303 designers, Verica Rakočević, present- Dom Sindikata on October 27th. During the ed her latest collection on the final eve L [email protected] closing ceremony, Ryan Rowlands, Public Affairs Of- Nebojsina 8 of Serbia Fashion Week in Novi Sad on ficer Counselor at the US Embassy, and Aleksandar Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. Oth 011/3863-999 October 18 . Rakočević was the star of the even- Živković, the programme director of the Belgrade ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight [email protected] ing, but many others were present, including Jazz Festival, said they were pleased with how the COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 www.restoranamici.rs Katarina Rebrača, the former top model. festival went. Circulation: 4,000 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 31 - Thursday, November 13, 2014 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 31 - Thursday, November 13, 2014 15 GOING OUT SPORT Still Italian hooked on volleyball honours Drugstore Serbian stars

This reopened new location, it should easily be able As Aleksandar Atanasijević receives an to regain that status. The new club is club, now not in the city centre. It is located in an award from the Italian league, the fans industrial area of Belgrade, under the occupying a vast, Pančevo Bridge. The giant building that of his club, Perugia, have named a stand the club now calls home used to be hangar-like space owned by a large meat-packing com- after the young son of the club’s captain, pany. far from the city Big dance clubs setting up shop far Goran Vujević. away from the city centre has proved a popular option in cities such as Vienna leksandar Atanasijević, a tribute, the municipal government ac- centre, looks set to and Berlin for a long time. Drugstore is who plays for Serbia’s na- cepted the proposal. “The municipal gov- following the same path. In fact, step- tional team as well as for ernment joins the fans who wish to pay be just as popular ping into the club will remind many Perugia, has received the tribute to Goran and his family, remem- people of the scene in Berlin, where “Andrei Kuznetsov” award bering little Stefan,” it said. as the original. old industrial spaces are commonly forA best scorer and attacker in the season During the preparations to commemo- turned into dance clubs. 2013/2014. rate Vujevic’s son, fans said they were de- Another plus point about an out-of- Italian Volleyball League director Mas- lighted to have the opportunity to pay their the-way location is that it thins the herd. simo Righi and Perugia president Gino respects to the Perugia captain this way. David GALIĆ Only people who really want to be in Sirci handed him the trophy on October “Our seats will bear the name of Ste- Drugstore are going to trek to the very 26th. fan Vujevic; we cannot but be more than fter the first incarna- outskirts of town. On the downside, if ceilings. Sparsely decorated and indus- have enough clout to fill up the space. While most would view the club’s The same day, before the second round honoured by this official announcement. tion of Drugstore had to you are going to Drugstore late at night, trial and cold in design, it is a bit like There are no bells and whistles at obscure location as a burden, the Drug- of the Italian volleyball championship Now the dream is really true,” the fans close down, the owners you’re going to have to take a taxi. It’s standing in a large tunnel. Drugstore. The musical experience is store faithful like the fact that you need between Perugia and Trentino, a plaque said. smartly took their time too far to walk from the centre of town, One problem with the size is that it is what counts. The club has little in the to invest a little bit of effort to get there. reading “Stefan Vujević stand” was erect- Perugia, who are being coached by an- to find the right venue and late-night public transport is often way too big to make daily programmes way of interior decoration, though the And the fact that it is located in an in- ed on the south stand of Perugia’s PalaE- other former Serbia national team player, andA reopen. The original Drugstore was unreliable. a viable option. Without at least several space has been designed to be condu- dustrial zone certainly doesn’t mean vangelisti stadium where the club’s most Nikola Grbić, lost the match after winning in Dorćol, across the street from the city This is truly a very dark and dingy hundred people in the club, it doesn’t cive to the clubbing experience, both in that people aren’t coming. Drugstore’s loyal fans gather. the first two sets. zoo. The club was then situated in the area. Once there, to get inside Drug- make much sense to open. That’s why terms of sound and crowd movement. reputation on the cutting edge of club- The club was marking the anniver- After 130 minutes of play, Trentino won abandoned offices of an old Socialist- store, you need to take a metal stairway Drugstore usually only works from The speaker system is state-of-the- bing is widely recognized by clubgoers. sary of the death of captain Goran Vuje- 3:2, by sets 21:25, 22:25, 25:19, 25:18, 17:15. era building, but earlier this year it had that looks like a fire escape up to the Thursday to Sunday, and it probably art, and when the party gets going in the It is what makes it by far the most popu- vic’s five-year-old son, Stefan. After fans They are currently in seventh place in the to close its doors. This was probably for club. The narrow set of stairs will prob- won’t work all four of those nights each early hours of the morning, it’s easy to lar spot these days for those looking launched a petition to be allowed to erect Italian league. the best, as the venue was not only a ably make many first-timers think they week. mistake Drugstore for an international for an underground dance club atmos- Atanasijević is the best scorer and attacker of 2013/2014. Photo by Beta fire hazard. Office buildings did not re- are about to enter a small club. In real- To fill the club to the point where it club. It’s rare to find such a spot in Bel- phere that looks more Western Euro- ally lend themselves to a good acoustic ity, they are entering one of the biggest makes sense to throw a party there, you grade, which is what makes Drugstore pean than Serbian in most aspects. experience, when it came to live music. in the city. really need a big event. Such events of- so popular among the Serbian under- orković finished second at the Su- and making mistakes when he got to Su- Despite those shortcomings, Drug- In fact, it is massive. After stepping ten come up in the form of internation- ground and among clubbers who are Drugstore zuka circuit in Japan on October zuka. store became the most popular un- into the club and checking in your coat, al DJs, popular Serbian bands or at least genuinely interested in the latest and Address: Bulevar Despota Stefana 115 Serbian driver 26th, just behind 52-year-old rac- “I always gave 110 per cent until the Ja- derground music club in the city. At its you find yourself in a vast hall with high a group of well-known Serbian DJs who most contemporary electronic sounds. Phone: +381 63 828 79 28 Bing legend Gabriele Taquini. pan race. Then, in the qualifications, I re- This was Borković’s debut season in the duced the tempo - it was important for me takes historic World Touring Car Championship and the not to make a mistake. I knew that I would Jazz fusion hero first time that a Serbian driver has finished be fast. So confidence came, so I started Dejan Petrović’s among the top three competitors in the to get away from my competitors. That tournament. thrilled me more than second place in it- John McLaughlin racing podium Borković said the support he received self,” Borković said. brass players from family and fans had spurred him on. Two years ago, Borković became Euro- plays Belgrade “I waited a whole year, knowing that pean champion in Hill Climb races, and ready to rock Dušan Borković took second place in a success will come. Psychology is hugely last year he finished third in the European ne of the most influential guitar players of all time, John important. In the first races which I started, Touring Car Cup. McLaughlin will be playing Dom Sindikata in Belgrade he Dejan Petrović Big Band is probably the best known World Touring Car Championship race I was relieved that I had good results, but The World Touring Car Championship with his Fourth Dimension Quartet on November 6th. brass ensemble in Serbia. They will be promoting their then pressures from the media and the fans is one of the three biggest competitions Rising to fame while playing with Miles Davis in the brand new album, Truba Libre, at the Sava Centar on No- in Japan, making him the first Serbian to started. And we all know that in Serbia eve- run by the World Automobile Federation. 1960s, he is known as the father of jazz fusion, creating vember 13th, as well as playing their older hits. Unusually, ryone wants you to become world cham- Borković is now in 14th place in the overall incredibleO sounds in the 1970s with The Mahavishnu Orchestra, which the band has announced that it will also be performing pion,“ Borković said. standings. The season ends at the Guia Cir- stand on the tournament’s podium. blended jazz and rock with influences from Indian music. Now in his aT set of popular rock’n’roll songs arranged for brass. Since forming in Dušan Borković is Serbia’s best car racer. He said that he stopped trying too hard cuit in Macau in mid-November. seventies, he continues to explore these ideas with his talented group 2006, Petrović and his band have played over 300 shows and partici- of players, Garry Husband, Etienne Mbappe and Ranjit Barot. Ticket pated in all the most important brass festivals around the world. Tick- prices range from €22 to €35. ets range from €10 to €22.

Experimental Americans Ring Ring experimental Xiu Xiu debut in Serbia festival adds shows Xiu Xiu are one of the strangest and Belgrade’s best experimental music most original alternative rock bands of festival is not quite done for the year Forgotten melodies Fates Warning the last decade and will be hitting the yet. It has announced three more from the Balkan past showcase ‘progressive metal’ Dom Omladine stage on November 6th. Serbian rockers shows, the first of which will take place The Teofilović Twins, known around Fates Warning, the US forefathers of the Led by the talented multi-instrumen- Riblja Čorba go unplugged on November 12th at the Rex Cultural the world for their mesmerising vocal progressive metal movement which talist Jamie Stewart, the band put out One of the most popular Serbian rock Centre and will feature Made to Break, performances of ancient Balkan mu- melds prog rock with heavy metal, are a bunch of albums every year that are bands of all time, Yugoslav-era veterans a band led by experimental saxophone sic, will have guitarist Miroslav Tadić playing in Belgrade for the first time th all usually completely different from Riblja Čorba, will be playing two special player Ken Vandermark, who is known accompanying their haunting vocal on November 12 at Dom Omladine. each another. In their Serbian debut ap- acoustic shows at the Sava Centre. After for his incredible improvisational performance on November 10th at the They’ll be presenting their latest album pearance, they will be presenting their the initial concert on October 31st sold skills and explorations of world music, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment. Tickets ‘Darkness in a Different Light’ and latest and probably most violent album, out quickly, they have added a second particularly Ethiopian sounds, and for the concert, which is entitled playing the most popular songs from ‘Angel Guts: Red Classroom’. Tickets show for November 1st. Tickets range contemporary free jazz. Tickets will be “Forgotten World of the Balkans”, are a career dating back to the early 1980s. cost €8 at the door. from €14 to €30. €2 at the door. on sale at €10. Tickets are €15 at the door. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 31 - Thursday, November 13, 2014 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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