The History and Literature of America's Oysters

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Download date 25/09/2021 08:36:56

Link to Item http://hdl.handle.net/1834/26462 Publications also reviews artificially induced trip­ loidy from the cytogenetic perspective and associated aspects. Sandra Shum­ The History and Literature way then discusses natural environmen­ tal factors important to oyster biology, of America's Oysters while the responses of oysters to vari­ ous metals in their environment are con­ sidered by G. Roesijadi. Judith Capuzzo Historically, America's use and enjoy­ $95.00, and it is distributed and sold by reviews bioaccumulation and biological ment of the oyster extend far back into the publisher as well as by the Cornell effects of lipophilic organic contami­ prehistoric times. The Native Americans Maritime Press, Inc., P.O. Box 456, 101 nants (PAH's, PCB's, etc.). Oyster prob­ often utilized oysters, more intensively Water Way, Centreville, MD 21617. lems with predators, pests, and compet­ in some areas than in others, and, at least Some ofGaltsoff's chapters have been ing species are discussed by Marie White in some areas of the Caribbean and Pa­ understandably merged-particularly and Elizabeth Wilson, while Susan Ford cific coast, the invading Spanish sought those dealing with oyster anatomy­ and M. R. Tripp review oyster diseases oysters as eagerly as they did gold-but while a number of new chapters (on top­ and defense mechanisms. Chapters on for the pearls. That was the pearl oyster, ics that Galtsoff may not have dreamed oyster culture include one on genetic im­ Pinctada sp., and signs of its local of) have been added, vastly broadening provement of oyster stocks by Gary overexploitation were recorded early in the scope and utility of this volume. The Newkirk and another on the history and the 16th century. During the 1800's, use authors have synthesized new research current applications of oyster culture by ofthe eastern oyster grew phenomenalIy findings into a well-planned volume that Michael Castagna, Mary Gibbons, and and, for a time, it outranked beef as a should be the authority on the species Kenneth Kurkowski. Another important source of protein in some parts of the for some time to come. chapter deals with the transplanting of nation. Social events grew up around it, The book leads off with a chapter cata­ the eastern oyster worldwide and the re­ as it became an important aspect ofcul­ loging selected species ofliving oysters sults thereof (including the accidental ture and myth. Eventually, research on of the world, ably produced by Mel­ transporting of associated and sometimes the oyster began to blossom, and scien­ bourne Carriker and Patrick Gaffney. problem organisms) by James Carlton tific literature on the various species General anatomy (mantle, adductor and Roger Mann. The final chapter is likewise bloomed-to the extent that muscle, heart and circulation, gills, la­ Clyde MacKenzie's discussion of the when the late Paul Galtsoff wrote his bial palps; digestive, excretory, and re­ management of natural oyster popula­ classic treatise ''The American oyster productive systems; and larval stages) tions. In summary, this is a very fine con­ Crassostrea virginica Gmelin" in 1954, is reviewed by Albert Eble and Robert tribution to the literature, up-to-date, and he reported compiling an extensive bib­ Scro, while Carriker then discusses more should be of great value to students, re­ liography of over 6,000 subject and au­ specifically the shell and ligament in searchers, and administrators involved thor cards on oysters and related sub­ Chapter 3. Additional coverage includes with this species. jects which he deposited in the library the adductor and mantle musculature by of the Woods Hole Laboratory of the Carol Morrison in Chapter 4, and Bureau of Commercial Fisheries (now mechanisms and physiology of larval European Molluscan NMFS). That large report, volume 64 and adult feeding by Roger Newell and Shellfish Review (480 pages) of the agency's Fishery Christopher Langdon in Chapter 5. Fur­ Bulletin, was a bargain at $2.75, and it ther chapters review digestion and nu­ Also recently published is volume 3, has been a standard reference ever since. trition in both larvae and adult oysters for Europe, of "The History, Present But the research and the attendant lit­ (Christopher Langdon and Roger Condition, and Future of the Mollus­ erature have grown greatly since Newell), the circulatory system (Albert can Fisheries of North and Central Galtsoff's work was published, and now Eble) and forms and functions of America and Europe," coedited by that has been thoroughly updated. hemocytes (Thomas Cheng), reproduc­ Clyde L. MacKenzie, Jr., Victor G. "The Eastern Oyster Crassostrea tive processes and early oyster develop­ Burrell, Jr., Aaron Rosenfield, and Willis virginica," edited by Victor S. Kennedy, ment (Raymond Thompson, Roger L. Hobart (volumes I and 2 for North Roger I. E. Newell, and Albert F. Ebel Newell, Victor Kennedy, and Roger America are in press). Volume 3, 240 and authored by more than 25 authori­ Mann), and larval and spat biology (Vic­ pages, is sold by the Superintendent of ties in their respective fields, has been tor Kennedy). Documents, U.S. Government Printing published by the University of Maryland Biochemical and population genetics, Office, P.O. Box 371954, Pittsburgh, PA Sea Grant College, 0112 Skinner Hall, by Patrick Gaffney, were little known 15250-7954. In addition it is sold in ei­ College Park, MD 20742. This superb in Galtsoff's day; indeed, the term ge­ ther paper copy or microfiche by the volume will long stand as the reference netics is not in his index. The chapter National Technical Information Service, source on the species' biology. The 734­ on chromosomes, biology, and breeding 5285 Port Royal Road, Springfield, VA page volume, with 21 chapters, costs by A. Crosby Longwell and S. S. Stiles 22161.

58(4).1996 79 This European volume covers the ably revised and enlarged (182 pages). December 1991 rescue of a man who molluscan fisheries of the following Lineage of the log canoe, truly a dug­ fell overboard. nations: Sweden by J. Haamer, Norway out canoe, is traced by the author back Many consider the Ruby G. Ford, built by 0. Strand and 1. H. V¢lstad, Den­ to the early dugouts made and used by in 1891, as the first true bateaux or skip­ mark by P. S. Kristensen, Iceland by H. the Native Americans, and from there jack, and by 1900 many such vessels Eirfksson, Faroe Islands by A. onward to the Chesapeake Bay sailing were taking advantage of the Maryland Nicolajsen, Germany by M. N. L. Sea­ canoe. Excellent period drawings, along law restricting oyster dredging to sail­ man and M. Ruth, Britain by E. with photographs ofcanoe construction ing vessels. The author discusses the Edwards, Belgium by F. Redant, Neth­ from The Mariners' Museum, Newport early years of the skipjacks-the ves­ erlands by R. Dijkema, France by P. News, Va., add to the value of the book. sels and the men who made and sailed Goulletquer and M. Heral, Spain by 1. Eventually sail power was added to the them, the problems they coped with and Caceres-Martinez and A. Figueras, Por­ canoes, leading even to racing canoes. the money they made-with succeed­ tugal by F. D. L. Ruano, Italy by N. The bugeye, which made its first Bay ing chapters telling ofoystering with the Mattei and M. Pellizzato, Croatia by A. appearance in the late 1860's, drew on vessels decade by decade. Described are Benovic, Turkey by A. Alpbaz and B. various features from the canoe (basic the hazards of oystering, feuds over the Temelli, and Bulgaria by Y Staykov. design, dugout hull, sail plan), the pungy oyster bars, Hurricane Hazel's effects in Some of the important species cov­ (combination knight-heads and hawse­ 1954, and the eventual law change in ered in the volume include various oys­ pieces, sweeping sheer, low freeboard, 1966 allowing Monday dredging under ters (flat, Pacific, etc.), scallops, whelks, log rail), and from the Bay schooner power by skipjacks. mussels, cockles, hard clams, softshell (shoal draft, broad beam, clear deck lay­ The eventual decline of the skipjack clams, periwinkles, murex, and various out, gracefullonghead). It was particu­ fleet is chronicled, along with growing marine snails, arcs, etc. Each national larly adapted for oyster dredging which efforts to save and/or restore some of chapter covers the history of its mollus­ had been legalized on the bay just after the historic vessels. An appendix lists can fisheries for the various species of the Civil War. Likewise, period draw­ the commercial skipjacks found in the importance, along with the current sta­ ings and photographs add to the histori­ Maryland Vessel Files and the Maryland tus, culture methods, harvest data (ton­ cal value of the book, as do extensive Historical Society, in books by Howard nage and value) regulations and man­ appendices. Appendix 1 reviews the ori­ Chapelle, Robert H. Burgess, Marion V. agement; harvesting tools, vessels, and gin of the term "bugeye" and its appear­ Brewington, and others, and in volumes techniques; public health issues, pro­ ance in the literature, while appendix 2 of the "Merchant Vessels of the United cessing and marketing methods, food reviews oystering gear. Others present States." preparation methods, environmental specifications for an early bugeye, along Well written and illustrated, the book data, and more. In some nations, of with rigging details, and a roster of is a good companion to the writings of course, few species and low tonnage are bugeyes. Finally, a series of 25 plates Howard Chapelle on skipjacks, along harvested, but for many others, mollusks illustrates the lines and the deck and sail with its updated material on later ves­ are important locally and nationally and plans of various canoes and bugeyes. sels and oystering developments. Priced in trade. The volume is very thorough Priced at $35.95, the volume is avail­ at $29.95, the volume is also available and provides a fine review of Europe's able from Cornell Maritime Press, Inc., from Cornell Maritime Press. molluscan fisheries. PO. Box 456, 101 Water Way, Centre­ Other related volumes from CMP in­ ville, MD 21617. clude "Chesapeake Bay Schooners" by Another Tidewater Publishers book is Quentin Snediker and Ann Jensen. Vessels on the "Chesapeake Bay Skipjacks" by Pat These vessels are described as "the Oyster Grounds Vojtech. By the turn of the last century, workhorses of the bay in the nineteenth the skipjack was a familiar sight on and twentieth centuries." Included are Besides the scientific volumes, there Chesapeake Bay, but most watermen economic and social aspects of the ves­ are a surprising number of books deal­ just called them "bateaux." The strength sel, compiled in part from interviews ing with various historic and cultural of this book is the many personal inter­ with those actively using them for many aspects of America's oysters and oys­ views that the author made about 90 decades. The 264-page volume costs tering. For example, "Chesapeake Bay years later with longtime oystermen who $44.95. "Chesapeake Legacy: Tools Log Canoes and Bugeyes" by M. V. used the vessels and provided many per­ and Traditions," by Larry Chowning Brewington, published by Tidewater sonal stories of historic note for their (234 pages, $29.95) reviews the various Publishers, Centreville, Md., is a fine industry. The book is well illustrated implements in several Chesapeake Bay review of those vessels that were long with many color photographs; particu­ fisheries, as a follow-on to his earlier important to the oyster industry. This is larly noteworthy are those of the actual "Harvesting the Chesapeake: Tools and a combined edition of the earlier shipboard work. Besides its historic in­ Traditions" (296 pages, $29.95). The "Chesapeake Bay Log Canoes" and terest, the author imparts the feeling of bay's valuable oysters also led to many "Chesapeake Bay Bugeyes," both long danger that often faced the oystermen, confrontations among oystermen and out of print, and it has been consider­ including dramatic photographs of a between oystermen and law enforce-

80 Marine Fisheries Review ment personnel. Thus, "The Oyster porcelain pea crabs in the wells, presum­ in color. The 64-page book, available Wars of Chesapeake Bay" by John R. ably for those times that your oysters from the author, costs $8.95, postage Wennersten presents a brief history of lacked the little creature, which was a included. In addition, Parks has pro­ some of the violent skirmishes between delicacy in its own right. duced a series of colorful postcards re­ tongers and dredgers, Maryland vs. Vir­ For the Victorian hostess who wanted lating to the seafood industry. ginia watermen, and oyster "pirates" to serve oysters in proper form, there against the "Oyster Navy" of the State were different "styles" of plates to do it Oysters and Oystering in the ofMaryland's marine patrol (159 pages, with. One was quite deep-welled to al­ Pacific Northwest $14.95). CMP even has a book for young low the oysters to be served on ice on readers, "Oyster Moon," by Marcy the half-shell. Another type of plate was "Blood on the Half Shell" by Al Dunn Ramsey (112 pages, $9.95) which sculpted to present oysters on the half­ Qualman, published by Binfords and blends mystery with history in a late shell, but without ice. A third style was Mort, Portland, Oreg., is a biography of 1800's setting. designed to hold shucked oysters, with the times and trials of an early North­ those wells usually looking like the in­ west oyster farmer. It is presented in two Oyster Cans and Plates side of an oyster itself. The authors re­ parts, the first a historical narrative of port that the plates were made from Qualman's introduction to oyster farm­ More along the cultural lines are two about 1860 into the first part of this cen­ ing and his operations over the years, and colorful and interesting publications tury. Both books, paperbound, cost the second being his two fictional sto­ produced by Schiffer Publishing Ltd., 77 $29.95 plus $2.95 postage each, and are ries on oysters, "Blood on the Half Shell" Lower Valley Road, Atglen, PA 19310. available from the publisher. and "Ollie." The first is entitled simply "Oyster After spending 4 years in Washing­ Cans" and is written by Jim and Vivian Oysterhouse Cookbook ton's Willapa Bay, Qualman moved and Karsnitz. It has a relatively short but au­ set up his oyster farming operation on thoritative text on oyster containers Yet another small book that covers Oregon's Coos Bay in 1937. Among his (cans, jugs, and bottles) and on oyster­ oyster history, presentation, plates, reci­ oyster work, he details a meeting with related items including shucking knives, pes, and more is "The Celebrated Victor Loosanoff and a trip to the BCF shucking tokens, shipping and store con­ Oysterhouse Cookbook" by Frederick Milford Laboratory in the early 1960's tainers and labels, advertisements, and J. Parks, 437 N. 7th Street, Allentown, to learn more about laboratory tech­ stationery. It also includes a brief bibli­ PA 18102. In five well-written chapters, niques for producing oyster seed. While ography and a long list of oyster brand the author discusses "curiosities" of the the author is plainly opinionated about names. Otherwise, it presents about 150 food with various facts and trivia of in­ those he dealt with, the book is an inter­ pages of full-color oyster containers, terest to oyster buffs; gardeners of the esting addition to the region's oyster his­ labels, advertisements, and the like with sea-the harvesting and culture of oys­ tory by an active participant. It includes several items per page. Some of the con­ ters; how to serve oysters; and recipes a number ofphotographs ofoyster farm­ tainers and labels are very plain while from fine oyster houses. His chapter ing scenes in both Oregon and Washing­ many are colorful and well designed, "An element of social existence," re­ ton. The small paperbound volume has showing the considerable monetary and views the cultural, social, and healthful 159 pages (price not listed). food value of oysters in days gone by. aspects ofoysters. The Roman Pliny, for Yet another local and biographical his­ The other book, also by the Karsnit­ example, described oysters as "the palm tory of Northwest oystering is "The zes, is titled "Oyster Plates." Likewise, and pleasure ofthe table," and ofcourse Little Man and the Little Oyster" by it has a short but authoritative text on the Romans reared them in their spe­ Humphrey Nelson, published by Ye Gal­ oyster history, oyster plates and serving cial lagoons. Parks also quotes others, leon Press for the Mason County Histori­ pieces, and on oyster plate manufactur­ such as John Runyon, who wrote that cal Society, Belfair, WA 98528. Nelson, ers, along with a few traditional oyster in eating oysters one sensed a "strange who lived a full 100 years, was active in recipes. But the bulk of the book pre­ ethereal sensation as though one had the early Washington oyster industry, as sents 130 pages ofcolor photographs of supped off fairy food that whispered he and his two brothers farmed the Olym­ a multitude of specially designed plates, kindly and benignly to the digestion." pia oyster in southwestern Puget Sound each plate with generally from four to In addition, the author recommends ap­ from about 1913 onward. six oyster wells around a center well for propriate beverages to accompany an The narrative relates the author's ef­ a sauce or condiment. However, one oyster meal, types of sauces for them, forts to purchase good tidelands and tells French "platter" has 24 oyster wells, gives instructions on the proper way to of pre-automobile marketing problems while a ceramic lazy Susan was made eat an oyster on the half-shell, along (oysters were taken by wagon to Olym­ to hold 27 oysters. As with the oyster with data on the proximate composition pia, Wash., and shipped by train to Cali­ cans/advertisements, the designs and of the oyster. fornia markets), early local oyster sales colors are incredibly diverse, reflecting Throughout, the book is illustrated and promotion, the author's efforts to the position and prestige of oysters in with many period posters, can designs, dike less productive tidelands to wash another era. One plate even has tiny cards, advertisements, and plates, often out silt, and his and other oyster farm­

58(4),1996 81 ers' problems with pollution from a new leading to more widespread conversion meat quality and extend shelf life. The pulp mill in 1927. As he put it, "This was to production of that species. Nelson 88-page hardbound volume costs $12.00 the start of thirty years of problems..." also developed his own "secret" method ($1.00 postage) and is available from Ye Nelson also tells of the introduction of treating shucked oysters with con­ Galleon Press, Box 287, Fairfield, WA of "Japanese" or Pacific oysters in 1937, trolled amounts of salt water to improve 99012.

82 Marine Fisheries Review