Colored Gemstones Cultured Pearls

A WORLD APART In Lesson 1 you learned that any kind of gem except diamond is considered a colored gem. Although pearls are included in that broad classification, they really belong to a world apart. Most customers recognize this instinctively, sensing a special appeal about pearls. There are several themes you can use in a sales presentation to evoke or enhance pearl’s separate place in the gem kingdom: • Pearls are born in water. This intuitive contrast with other gems, which are dug from the ground, gives pearls an aura of gentleness, freshness, and fluid grace. • Pearls originate from life. While most gems are minerals produced by inanimate geology, pearls are organic. They come from living beings. Much of pearls’ mystique arises from this connection. • Pearls possess a beauty that’s all their own. Most gems depend on cutting or carving to reveal their charms, but pearls emerge gleaming from their shells. Cultured pearls are born in water and originate from living organisms. They Though certain factors of pearl value are comparable are natural in their beauty and classic to those of other gems, key considerations are unique. as a gem.

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Cultured pearls are modern forms of a classic gem. They ® combine Nature’s creative power with human art and JA SPC SKILLS If you’re participating in the JA® science. You could even say that cultured pearls show how Sales Professional Certification people can work with the environment to make age-old Program™, this lesson presents information related to the following Skill beauty available now, and for future generations as well. Areas: In the following pages you’ll explore these themes and PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE • Pearls find information to help customers understand their signifi- • Disclosure natural • History of Jewelry cance. The lesson begins with the romance of pearls. • Designer & Brand Name Jewelry Next, you’ll see how pearls are cultured. You’ll learn about • Custom-manufactured Items factors that affect beauty, quality, and value. You’ll also find SERVICES AND GUARANTEES out how these apply to different types of pearls. Finally, • Store Service Programs you’ll examine ways to guide your customers into the fasci- CUSTOMER SERVICE • Building Customer Relations nating world of pearls. SELLING PROCESS • Customer Needs • Building the Sale •Closing the Sale

OPERATIONS • Merchandise Maintenance

BUSINESS ETHICS • FTC Guidelines •Trade Practices

Lesson Objectives When you have successfully completed

Photo courtesy Cathleen Bunt. this lesson, you will be able to: • Describe how cultured pearls are created. • Explain factors that affect pearl beauty, quality, and value. • Discuss the features and benefits of different types of pearls. • Open customers to the possibilities of pearl wardrobing.

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PEARL TRADITIONS Since the dawn of history, pearls have been counted among the most beautiful, magical, and valuable of gems. Early hunter -gath- erers probably found pearls during their search for food, making pearls among the first gems treasured by humans. Pearls have also appeared in the folktales, religions, and popular traditions of many cultures. Here are a few examples you might share with customers: • For centuries, many people in Asia believed that pearls began with drops of divine moisture falling from dragons in the sky. When the drops landed in seashells and were Throughout history pearls have been nourished by moonbeams, they grew into pearls. one of the most highly prized and sought after gems. • Pearls have long been seen as religious symbols. In Photo courtesy Japan Pearl Exporters Association. Buddhist art, pearls represent enlightenment. A Christian parable compares the kingdom of heaven to a pearl of great price. According to Islamic tradition, every event – past, present, and future – is recorded on a vast pearl that extends from heaven to earth.

• In the ancient Roman world, pearls were the most concentrated form of wealth. Egypt’s queen Cleopatra once bet the Roman general Marc Antony that she could consume the value of a whole nation in one meal. To win the wager she crushed a large pearl, mixed it in glass of wine, and drank it. Because of their appearance and aquatic origins, pearls were associated with the bewitching beauty of the full moon and the life-giving power of water. From these natural links, pearls grew to symbolize purity and love. Ultimately, the rich traditions surrounding pearls made them birthstones for the month of June, as well as designated gems for both the 3rd and 30th wedding anniversaries. (You’ll learn more about birthstones and anniversary gems in Lesson 12.) Cleopatra Today, pearls still embody the meanings they’ve possessed for thou- sands of years. The science and magic of culturing have added new dimen- sions, too. Though you probably have only cultured pearls in your showcases, let’s look at the original inspirations.

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NATURAL PEARLS Natural pearls are produced by about two dozen kinds of mollusks, including oysters, mussels, and other shellfish. (Pearl oysters, however , are more closely related to scallops than to common edible oysters). The process of natural pearl formation usually begins when an irritant of some kind accidentally enters the mollusk’s shell. Many people think a grain of sand is responsible, but the “trigger” is more often a tiny worm, crab, or fish. As a defensive response, the mollusk coats the invader with layer after layer of nacre (NAY-ker). This is composed mostly of microscopic calcium carbonate crystals which accumulate like overlapping shingles. Nacre is Natural pearls are similar to the inner lining of the mollusk’s shell, more commonly known as produced by several mother-of-pearl. Besides protecting the mollusk, nacre is responsible for dozen kinds of mollusks. pearl’s distinctive beauty. Natural pearls were once found in significant quantities around the world. They came from saltwater bodies such as seas and oceans, and also from the freshwaters of streams, rivers, and lakes. The most famous source of natural saltwater pearls was the Persian Gulf. This locale was fished commercially before 300 BC. The pearls found there were called “Oriental” pearls and have often been mentioned in literature and history. Much later, Columbus and the explorers who followed him discovered salt- Throughout history, the best known water pearls in the New World. In the 1800s, new kinds of natural source of natural salt-water pearls was the Persian Gulf. saltwater pearls were recovered as by-products of fishing for mother-of-pearl shell in Australia and French Polynesia. Natural freshwater pearls were available treasures, too. The emperors of China decked themselves in pearls from the rivers of their kingdom. Freshwater pearls were also found in much of Europe and America. Old European laws decreed them to be royal property . Native tribes prized those from the waters of the country that became the United States. Over the centuries, natural saltwater pearls gradually disappeared. Chinese sources became depleted almost 2,000 years ago. Most American saltwater pearls were gone by the 1600s, and their freshwater kin followed in the 1800s. After more than 20 centuries, the flow of pearls from the Persian Gulf dropped to a trickle in the early 1900s. In most cases the cause was overfishing, but in modern times, pollution became a factor as well.

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Natural pearls are still found in limited numbers at a few locations. You’re most likely Cultured Pearls to see them in antique stores and estate auctions. (You may not recognize them because it takes X-ray testing to tell the difference between natural and cultured pearls.) For the most part, Natural It takes x-ray to tell the Pearls difference between natural natural pearl’s ancient place in the gem kingdom and cultured pearls. has been taken over by the cultured pearl.

CONCH AND MELO PEARLS he Queen conch (kahnk) is a large snail-like mollusk that Tinhabits parts of the western Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea, from Bermuda to South America. Famous for its ornate shell, this animal also produces the gems known as conch pearls. The finest conch pearls are delicate rose to deep orangish “salmon” pink. They have a porcelain look, with a silky sheen and a surface patterning that’s described as “flame structure”. Similar pearls come from other sea snails called Melo, which Conch Pearl. live in coastal waters of Southeast Asia. These are golden Photo courtesy Tino Hammid. yellow to amber orange in color, with similar sheen and patterning. Both types occur in other colors as well. Conch and Melo pearls are made of calcium carbonate. They form inside a mollusk, and are as rare as natural pearls. Many dealers and gemologists, however, say they aren’t true pearls because they don’t have a nacre coating with the shingle-like structure. In schol- arly publications they’re often called “calcareous concre- tions” or “non-nacreous pearls”. They can be very beautiful, though – and amazingly expensive. At a 1999 jewelry auction in Hong Kong, a single Melo pearl sold for almost $500,000. Now, THAT’S appreciation of nature’s rarity!

Queen conch shell

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CULTURED PEARLS Natural pearls form without human help of any kind. Creating a cultured pearl, on the other hand, involves human intervention and care. It’ s important to make this difference clear to customers. You might say cultured pearls depend on the same life processes, but people play a role in their formation and growth. Describing that role can help some customers more fully appreciate cultured pearls’ beauty and value.

Modern pearl culturing represents centuries of experiments followed by a Kokichi Mikimoto hundred years of concentrated development. The first steps occurred in China about is known as the 800 years ago. At that time, small lead figurines were placed in river mussels to be Father of the Cultured Pearl coated with nacre. The resulting objects grew attached to the mollusk’s shells, and Industry. would today be classified as blister pearls. In the 1700s, scientists began trying to produce whole pearls, which grow unattached to the shell. Around 1900 three Japanese researchers finally succeeded. One of them was Kokichi Mikimoto (1858-1954), who went on to pioneer the cultured pearl industry. Sources Until the 1950s, pearl culturing was focused in Japan. Since then, the industry has grown to include about a dozen producing nations. Like their natural counterparts, cultured pearls occur in saltwater and freshwater varieties. Saltwater pearls are cultured in specific oyster species while freshwater pearls come from mussels. Methods have been adapted to suit dif ferent environments and pearl- bearing mollusks, expanding the choices available to consumers. Later in this lesson you’ll look at the features of dif ferent types of pearls. First, here’s a rundown of the most important sources: Saltwater Cultured Pearls • Japan and China – These are top producers of the popular Akoya pearl. Akoya is the Japanese name for the small oyster used for saltwater culturing in both countries. (Its scientific name is Pinctada Fucata.) This oyster is relatively small, growing to only about five inches in diameter. Japan Akoya mollusk has been producing Akoya pearls for 100 years. China didn’t and cultured begin until the 1980s, but its output now equals Japan’ s. One pearl. reason is that many of Japan’s Akoya oysters died in the 1990s due to pollution and disease. In addition, China has resources that Japan lacks – a long coastline with many inlets, and an extremely large workforce.

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• Australia, Indonesia, and Philippines – Most South Sea cultured pearls come from these countries, while Myanmar and Thailand produce smaller quantities. The culturing mollusks are gold- and silver-lipped oysters. (These are varieties of Pinctada Maxima.) Growing to about twelve inches in diameter, they’re among the world’s largest oysters. Australia began pearl culturing in the 1950s. Indonesia and the Philippines followed in The Pinctada Maxima mollusk is the 1970s. Harvests increased and the popularity of South Sea used widely in Australia, Indonesia pearls soared in the 1990s. and the Philippines for pearl culturing.

•French Polynesia – The pearls cultured in this region are named for Tahiti, the best-known island of the territory. Most Tahitian pearls, however, are actually grown hundreds of miles away, in the Gambier Islands and Tuamotu Archipelago. The Cook Islands, which belong to New Zealand, are another source. Tahitian pearl culturing started around 1970, using the black-lipped oyster (Pinctada Margaritifera). Tahitian pearl Named for the dark-colored edges of its shell, this is another lar ge growers use the black-lipped oyster. Like South Sea pearls, Tahitian pearls have attracted growing mollusk which interest in recent years. produces a variety of dark colored pearls. Freshwater Cultured Pearls • Japan – Commercial freshwater pearl culturing origi- nated here in the 1930s, at Lake Biwa. Though Biwa’s production has dropped due to pollution and competing activities like farming and land development, the name remains linked to the product. Elsewhere in the country there’s just limited freshwater culturing now. • China – Launched in the 1960s, Chinese freshwater culturing now supplies the world with hundreds of tons of pearls each year. Ranging from small private efforts to giant government enterprises, many farms are located in eastern China along the Yangtze River and its tributaries. Freshwater pearls are cultured Most pearls come from the triangle-shell mussel into many different shapes. (Hyriopsis Cumingi). Photo courtesy Cultured Pearl Association of America.

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• United States – Since the 1980s the US has been a minor but noteworthy producer of freshwater cultured pearls. The most successful farm is in Tennessee. It specializes in blister pearls and whole pearls grown in fancy shapes. The company uses washboard mussels (Megalonaias Nervosa) for culturing. The American pearl – taken from mussels of freshwater rivers – is the official state gem of Tennessee. Methods No matter where they come from geographically, cultured pearls are the results of scientific know-how, skilled farming, and diligent care – with lots of help from Nature. Creating a cultured pearl also takes a great deal of time. The work usually starts with breeding and raising mollusks until they’re old enough to produce pearls. Then comes the procedure known as nucleation. For saltwater pearls, technicians implant spherical shell beads along with small pieces of mantle tissue from other oysters. (The mantle is the or gan that lines the mollusk’s shell and envelops its body.) The number and sizes of nuclei depend on the mollusk. Akoyas are nucleated with as many as five beads, each 2 to 6 millimeters in diameter. The larger South Sea and Tahitian oysters receive a single nucleus measuring 6 to 10 millimeters (occasionally bigger). Most Chinese freshwater mussels are nucleated with only mantle tissue, and they can take up to fifty nuclei. Ideally, each nucleus acts as an artificial irritant that stimulates nacre secretion and pearl formation. After nucleation, the mollusks are returned to the water and tended while they grow their pearls. They’re periodically cleaned, given health checkups, and treated with medicinal compounds. Many saltwater oysters are housed in cages that can be raised, lowered, or even relo- cated to ensure optimum conditions. Some farmers use special nutrient formulas that accelerate mollusk develop- Expert technicians implant the spherical beads into the body of the mollusk. ment and pearl formation. Photo courtesy Paul Holewa.

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At the end of the growing period – if everything has gone right – the pearls are harvested. A number of factors can nega- tively affect the outcome, though. Many mollusks reject their nuclei or die at some point following the implant. Mollusks are also sensitive to changes in their environments. These changes can come from weather events such as typhoons and torrential rains, or less dramatic fluctuations in nutrients and

water conditions. There are also diseases, parasites, and preda- Eventually, if the mollusks withstand tors to worry about, and pollution is a growing problem. weather, environment and disease, they are harvested. Only about 20% of nucleated Akoyas produce marketable pearls, and only a fraction of those are fine quality . Success rates for Chinese freshwater pearls are around 50%, but at some South Sea farms they reach 90%.

CULTURING TIME o help you give customers a sense of the time it took to create the cultured pearls you Tpresent, this table shows average periods for raising mollusks to maturity and growing pearls after nucleation. (South Sea, Tahitian, and Chinese freshwater mollusks can often be re-nucleated, extending the total production time.)

Pearl Raising Growing Type Mollusks Pearls Akoya 2 years 8 months to 2 years South Sea Baroque Freshwater South Sea 2 years 2 years Tahitian 3 years 2 years Chinese Freshwater 6 months 2 to 6 years

South Sea Round Akoya

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Preparation Following harvest, cultured pearls undergo varying degrees of processing. This most often includes washing, followed by light polishing. For polishing, the pearls are placed in a rotating tub filled with salt, soft buf fers like bamboo chips, and sometimes, wax. That’s about all the “cosmetics” some South Sea and Tahitian pearls receive. Most American freshwater pearls are simply washed. After harvest, pearls are sorted for size, color, shape and other A standard step for Akoyas and Chinese freshwater characteristics. pearls is bleaching. The pearls are immersed in a mild Photo courtesy Paul Holewa. hydrogen peroxide solution under bright fluorescent lights for several months. This makes the color whiter and more even. A further possibility is some kind of color-adding treatment. Akoyas can be darkened or tinted by dye or irradiation. Similar methods make freshwater pearls available in a wide range of colors. South Sea pearls are sometimes dyed “golden” yellow. All these treatments can usually be detected with standard tests, but advanced lab help may be needed in certain cases. Akoyas are sometimes tinted by dye or irradiation.

Most cultured pearls are made into necklaces. So, drilling is part of the preparation. Although this sounds simple, it requires expert work to ensure that every pearl rides properly on the string. After being drilled, the pearls are sorted and assembled into strands. The final step is transforming a strand into a necklace. This is another task that takes skill and contributes to the value of the final product. The traditional stringing material is silk, which For most pearls, drilling is part of makes the necklace flexible yet strong. In many necklaces, each the preparation for market. pearl is individually knotted to prevent it from rubbing against its neighbors or falling off if the string breaks. The finishing touch is an attractive clasp that holds the work of humans, nature, and time securely.

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OTHER CULTURED PRODUCTS n addition to whole pearls, culturing offers other products Ithat maximize the recovery from farming and increase choices for consumers: 3/4 pearl. • Three-quarter pearls – These are usually made from Akoyas or other pearls with an obvious surface blemish. Careful grinding eliminates the trouble spot, and the remaining pearl goes into a ring, tie tack, or other jewelry with a covered back. • Keshi – These pearls form accidentally (without intentional nucleation) in mollusks being used for culturing. Keshi often occur after nucleus rejection. In Japanese, the word means “poppy seed,” reflecting the small size of Akoya keshi. Those from other mollusks can be quite large, however. Most keshi are irregular in shape, but they come in the Keshi. same colors as whole pearls, often with bright luster and orient. (Because keshi aren’t nucleated, there’s been some debate Photo courtesy Cultured Pearl Association of America. about whether or not they might be called natural pearls. Since they occur in cultivated mollusks, however, most experts agree they’re a cultured product.) • Blister pearl – This is a natural or cultured pearl that grows attached to the shell. In cultured blister pearls, the bead nucleus can be half-round or fancy-shape (oval, heart, teardrop, etc.). Instead of being inserted into the mollusk’s body, the nucleus is glued to the shell. Because of this Blister pearls. Photo courtesy placement, the nucleus and resulting pearl can be larger The West Australian Pearl Company, Ltd. than normal. Many blister pearls are used to make mabés (see the next entry). Others are cut to include part of the shell in an attractive outline. • Mabé (MA-beh) – This is an assembled product made from a cultured blister pearl. First, the pearl is cut from the Mabe pearls. shell and the nucleus is removed. Next, the hollow nacre dome is filled with epoxy resin. The inside of the dome may also be dyed or coated to impart color or increase luster. Then the piece is cemented to a mother-of-pearl back. Photo courtesy Cultured Pearl Association of America.

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VALUE FACTORS Aside from the economics of supply and demand, six factors can af fect the value of cultured pearls. These factors are size, shape, color, luster, surface, and nacre. A seventh factor – matching – becomes important when pearls are sold as strands or made into jewelry . To help customers make purchase decisions, you should be able to define cultured pearl value factors and explain how they relate to beauty and quality as well as cost. • Size – The size of a cultured pearl is measured in millimeters. This value factor is governed by four things: the kind of mollusk that produced the pearl, the size of the nucleus, the conditions in which the mollusk lived, and the time allowed for pearl growth. While large pearls are dramatic, size doesn’t directly relate to quality. A mollusk is more likely to reject a large nucleus, so fine-quality pearls near the top of the size range for their individual type are comparatively rare and command premium prices. (Size ranges and other individual differences are described in the next section of this lesson, and also in the Colored Gemstone Compendium.)

Although perfectly round pearls are treasured, every shape can be interesting and beautiful.

Photo courtesy Cultured Pearl Association of America. Round Baroque

• Shape – There are three general categories for this value factor: spherical (round and near-round), symmetrical (oval, button, drop, etc), and baroque Perfectly (irregular). Shape’s influence on value also relates round pearls more to rarity and tradition than to beauty or quality . Though perfectly round pearls are rare, most are rare. consumers picture rounds when they think of pearls. Rounds, therefore, have the highest value of the shapes (other factors being equal). Symmetrical pearls, however, can be stunning in pendants, earrings, and other jewelry styles that display them ef fectively. Off-rounds and baroques appeal to customers who like their unique look.

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• Color – A pearl’s color can have up to three separate components. These are the basic body color, a blush-like overtone, and iridescent orient. Body color is always present, and it’s the easiest color component to judge. (Use diffused light and a neutral background.) If there’s an overtone, it will add a translucent tint. Orient shows best under diamond display lights. It resembles rainbow colors on a soap bubble. This relatively rare effect is seen most often in baroque pearls. Orient is caused by light breaking up as it passes through layers in the nacre. Some customers think of pearls as white, but cultured pearls come in a wide range of Though most people think natural and treated colors. White or pink of cultured pearls as are traditional recommendations for light white, they come in a complexions, with cream or yellow for range of colors. olive or dark complexions. Body color Photo by Robert Weldon courtesy of Rafco International. matters most with short necklaces that lie against the skin. Much more important, Orient resembles the rainbow however, is the customer’s preference. colors on a soap bubble. Photo courtesy Hugh Powers.

• Luster (also spelled lustre) – Simply defined, this is a pearl’s “reflectivity.” It combines surface reflections with a deeper glow caused by light reflecting back from layers in the nacre. Luster ultimately depends on the size, transparency, and arrangement of the calcium carbonate crystals that make up the nacre. These, in turn, are influenced by the mollusk and growth conditions (particularly water temperature). As a result, different kinds of pearls have differing luster potentials. Luster is a critical beauty element for every pearl. The higher a pearl’s luster is, the better it will “mirror” the color on which it rests – whether that’ s the color of skin or fabric. For this reason, very high luster pearls are always complimentary. You can demonstrate luster by gently rolling a necklace across a counterpad and calling attention to the quality of light reflections on the surfaces. When you deal with comparison-shoppers, caution them to be on guard for “bargain” pearls with low luster. These will always look “chalky” – white and dull – on skin or fabric. The higher the luster of a pearl, the better it will “mirror” the color on which it rests.

Photo courtesy Cultured Pearl Association of America.

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Almost all pearls have some surface characteristics.

Photo courtesy Cultured Pearl Association of America. • Surface – This factor is also called surface condition, surface quality, spotting, blemishing, and cleanliness. You might say it’s the cultured pearl version of clarity. You can most easily define surface quality as ‘relative freedom from blemishes’. These include bumps, spots, pits, scratches, and nacre cracks. Almost all cultured pearls have some surface characteristics. These aren’t too significant unless they affect appearance or durability. Like baroque shapes, lightly blemished pearls have a “natural” appeal for some customers. Conversely, you can emphasize rarity when you present exceptionally “clean” pearls. • Nacre – This is the thickness of the cultured pearl’s nacre coating. It’s most often a concern with Akoyas. Tissue-nucleated freshwater pearls are almost solid nacre, and South Sea and Tahitian pearls usually have thick coatings. Good-quality Akoyas have about one millimeter of nacre, which is sufficient for years of normal wear. Lower qualities, however, may have only 1/2 millimeter or less. Thin nacre shows little luster, and can wear away to expose the nucleus. In general, nacre thickness depends on how much time the oyster is given after nucleation to coat the pearl. One clue to thin nacre is “blinking” – the pearls in a necklace flicker lighter and darker as they’re rotated under a bright light. This is caused by reflections from Good quality Akoyas have about one millimeter of nacre. mother-of-pearl on the shell nuclei. Sometimes, in the lowest quality Photo by John Parrish courtesy of A&Z pearls, the shell beads can be seen through the nacre. International. • Matching – This is critical for pearls in most necklaces and many other jewelry styles. Matching normally means selecting pearls that look alike in size, color, and other aspects of appearance. Since no two pearls are identical, the goal is producing a visual blend rather than exact uniformity . Matching contributes to beauty and quality, but it also affects cost due to the time and labor involved. Expert sorters must examine as many as 10,000 Akoya pearls to create one well- Matching impacts pearl value because matched strand sixteen inches long. Some South Sea pearl of the time and labor involved. Months - even years - can go into the necklaces take years to assemble. Even in designs that matching of an exquisite set. employ intentional mismatching for creative effects, the Photo courtesy Albert Asher, South Sea Pearl pearls are carefully chosen. Company.

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PRODUCT HIGHLIGHTS Like gem species and varieties, different kinds of pearls have differing standards when it comes to the factors that af fect beauty, quality, and value. You need to highlight these individual possibilities in sales presentations. Distinctive features also provide images and ideas you can use to help customers appreciate each pearl type in a unique way. • Akoya Pearls – Traditional beauty and elegance make good themes when you present this classic cultured pearl. The full size range is about 2 to 10 millimeters, but 4 to 8 is more usual, and 7 millimeters (just over 1/4 inch) is the favorite. Rounds and near - rounds make up about 3/4 of Akoya production. Top-selling colors are white and cream (or crème). Others include light pinks, yellows, greens, blues, and grays. Treatments extend the Akoya palette all the way to black. Common overtones are rosé (pink) The full size range of akoyas is and green. Growing oysters in the cool waters of Japan and China about 2 to 10 millimeters. They are prized for their fine - produces fine-grained nacre, and luster in cultured pearls from grained luster.

these sources can be outstanding. With their almost mirror-like Photo courtesy Tiffany & Company. shine, high-luster Akoya pearls compliment any color or texture of fabric, and any skin tone. • South Sea Pearls – Spectacular size and seductive allure are hallmarks of these rare and costly pearls. They normally measure 8 to 18 millimeters (averaging around 13mm), but can grow to 20 millimeters or more. True rounds are not common, and many shapes are “circled” with parallel ridges or grooves. Colors run from white and cream through silver gray, golden yellow, rose pink, and aqua blue. (Currently, white South Sea pearls command the highest prices.) Overtones include rosé, mint green, and ice blue. Because South Sea pearls grow in warmer water than Akoyas, they have Spectacular size and seductive nacre that’s sometimes described as coarse-grained. This gives them allure are the hallmark of South a satiny luster instead of high gloss. Sea Pearls. White commands the highest price. •Tahitian Pearls – Exotic is the best word for these pearls, which

Photo courtesy Assael International. are striking in appearance. Though Tahitian pearls tend to be slightly smaller than South Sea pearls – typically 8 to 14 millimeters and averaging about 9 mm – size is still a notable feature. Circling gives many shapes intriguing individuality. Luster can be almost metallic – and Tahitian colors are amazing. The palette

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includes silver gray, golden yellow, bronze, copper, deep “cherry” red, yellow-green “pistachio,” and purple- gray “aubergine.” (Aubergine (oh-ber-zheen) is French for eggplant.) Near the top in visual impact and value is the color known as “peacock” – deep greenish to bluish gray with strong rosé or The colors of purple overtone. Tahitian pearls are amazing – silver- •Freshwater Pearls – Novelty, variety, and grey, golden yellow, affordability are strong selling points for bronze, pistachio Circling gives many shapes and aubergine. freshwater pearls. Chinese freshwater pearls intriguing individuality. come in a multitude of shapes. Among the Photo courtesy Tahitian Pearl most popular are the “veggies” – rice, Association. potato, and corn. Rounds and symmetrical shapes are also available. These latter two offer alternatives for the traditional Akoya look at dramatically lower prices. While an Akoya saltwater cultured pearl necklace might sell for $1,000.00, a similar- appearing necklace of round Chinese freshwater pearls might be only $300.00.

The choices for American freshwater pearls (which have flat bead nuclei) include bar, button, coin, navette (marquise), teardrop, and triangle. Typical sizes are about 3 to 7 millimeters, but rounds range from 2 to 14 mm, and some fancy shapes measure more than 50 millimeters (2 inches) in length. There’s a rainbow of attractive colors: white and cream through shades of rose and salmon pink, apricot and tangerine orange, creamy or golden yellow, sea green, Unusually shaped freshwater pearls periwinkle blue, lavender, lilac, and mauve, as well as copper, inspire creativity and uniqueness.

bronze, silver, and gunmetal gray. Some occur naturally, and Photos courtesy A & Z Pearls. others come from treatment. Freshwater pearls are signifi- cantly less expensive than their saltwater counterparts. So, while cost is never a lead feature, it can often serve as an exclamation mark.

“Corn” pearls yield novel designs in row after row of uniformity.

Photo courtesy Frances Morris.

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ABALONE PEARLS ome of the newest and showiest additions to the pearl world come Sfrom abalones. Abalones are snail-like marine mollusks native to warm and temperate waters around the world. Considered a food delicacy and collected for their shells, they occasionally produce natural pearls of great beauty. In recent years declining wild popula- tions have led to restrictions on commercial fishing. This spurred development of abalone farming. Abalone pearl culturing began in New Zealand and the US in the 1990s. The world’s largest farm is located on the coast of northern California. After being spawned and raised for three years, the animals receive a single nucleus. The pearl growth period is one or two years. The results so far include blister pearls and mabés measuring about 10 to 15 millimeters. Efforts are under way to find reliable methods for producing whole pearls. (There are challenges related to the animal’s biology and behavior.) Abalone pearls often display a metallic luster with vivid color and orient. The body color spectrum includes red, orange, yellow, green, blue, magenta, pink, gold, bronze, and silver. Sometimes several of these colors create an opal-like mixture in a single pearl.

Abalone pearls often display the same metallic luster and vivid colors as the lining of the abalone shell.

Photo courtesy Paul Holewa.

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CULTURING SALES Surveys show that pearls are favorite gems for many consumers. They also gain in popularity with age, af fluence, and sophistication. Women make two out of three pearl jewelry purchases, and half of those are for themselves. Though pearls were once considered femi- nine gems, there are now some attractive choices for men, too. The diversity of cultured pearls allows you to present customers with an almost limitless selection of beauty and value. Always in fashion, right for any occasion, today’s pearl jewelry ranges from simple and traditional to elegant and daring. As a result, cultured pearls – perhaps more than any other gem – can inspire customers to create wardrobe collections.

The wardrobing concept is simple: Start with pieces that are Rene Russo in Tin Cup – The basic and versatile, then add accents, accessories, and extras for movie that inspired the popularity of the “tin cup” pearl necklace. special occasions and variety.

While it may not be the first component a woman acquires, the centerpiece of the most essential pearl wardrobe is the necklace. For a self-purchase, the customer can try on different styles and lengths to decide which she prefers. If the necklace is a gift – and particularly when the purchaser is male – you may need to provide suggestions and guidance based on careful profiling. There are many options for starters or add-ons. Among the most popular are solitaire pendants. Another is the station necklace, with pearls interspersed on a chain, cord, or wire. More elaborate necklace styles include the bib and torsade (tor-SOD). The first has three or more concentric strands. The second is a multi-strand twist of small pearls, sometimes mixed with different gems. The torsade is often a blend of multi- Other wardrobe essentials are earrings, rings, and color variety. bracelets. These run from classic studs, solitaires, and single- Photo courtesy Modern Jeweler. or multi-strands to elegant combinations with diamonds or other gems in gold and platinum.

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Moving beyond basics, a necklace can be upscaled with a jeweled clasp or a removable pendant known as an enhancer. Clip-on short- eners make longer necklaces more versatile. There are also special clasps that can be added to expand or diversify the lengths of necklaces. Pins provide dramatic accents. Ornate versions of fundamental elements can be just the right touch for special occasions. In almost every category, customers can choose from all types of pearls. There’s no need to stick with just one for the entire wardrobe. Creative mixing and matching makes the same jewelry look fun or formal – which is the whole idea. Build collections in silver , gold and platinum, with and without diamonds.

Creative mixing and matching A graduated necklace of South Sea pearls may stay on the makes the same “dream list”, but the variety of pearls at different prices make jewelry look fun or formal them accessible to everyone. – which is the whole idea. Photo courtesy Australian Pearl Centre.

Suggesting different pearls for different items can also help customers balance their desires with their budgets. Akoyas provide chic that’s easily tailored for any taste or pocketbook. In traditional styles, freshwater pearls can be remarkably inexpensive. Even opulent freshwater designs deliver unbeatable drama for the dollar. Blister pearls and mabés create bold ef fects in pieces by imaginative jewelry designers. Even if a complete necklace of South Sea or Tahitians has to stay on the “dream list,” a pendant or ring might put their dramatic beauty within reach. Hidden clasps can The great thing about pearls – for you as well as your customers – is that expand and diversify length of strands. each year, and almost every season, brings new products and new designs. There

Photo courtesy Honora. constantly are new occasions and reasons for owning them, too. Once you guide customers into the wonders of this special realm in the gem world, you’re on an odyssey that may never end.

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NECKLACE LENGTHS raditional pearl necklaces come in various lengths that create different looks and Tflatter different customers. If your firm offers stringing as a service you may be able to customize these, or suggest adding to previous purchases.

• Collar – 12 to 13 inches. Very Victorian yet completely “now,” this style has multiple strands that fit snugly at mid-neck. With bare-shoulder fashions, the pearl collar can be captivating, particularly on long, thin necks. Collar • Choker – 14 to 16 inches. Classic and versatile, this length accents slender necks. It goes with any outfit, from jeans and tank top to fancy evening attire. Choker • Princess – 17 to 19 inches. The most popular length, it’s suited for both crew and low necklines. Uniform strands, with pearls close to the same size, Princess offer a contemporary look. Those that are graduated, with pearl size increasing from back to front, have a more traditional appeal. • Matinee – 20 to 24 inches. This length has a slen- Matinee derizing effect. It’s probably the minimum you should suggest for customers who wear plus sizes. A matinee-length necklace is also a great choice for casual or business dress. • Opera – 28 to 34 inches. The opera is often described as the “queen” of lengths. Worn as a single strand, it’s refined and perfect for high necklines. Doubled, it becomes a two-strand choker. • Rope – Over 45 inches. Elegant and sophisticated, the pearl rope – also called a sautoir (saw-TWAR) – conjures images of Coco Chanel and high-style Art Opera Deco. Wearing it loosely knotted or with a shortener adds variety. Many ropes have invisible clasps in strategic locations, which allow them to be divided for wearing in various lengths. Rope

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FTC GUIDES ON PEARLS Sections 23.18 to 23.21 of the FTC Guides discuss natural, cultured, and imitation pearls. Section 23.22 covers gemstone treatments. All these pages of carefully worded text boil down to three easy-to-understand principles: •Identify your products clearly. Be careful not to leave customers with the mistaken idea that pearls are natural when they’re cultured. This also holds true for imitations versus cultured pearls. • Describe your products accurately. Use geographic terms like “Biwa,” “South Sea,” and “Tahitian” only for the types of pearls to which they properly apply. “Oriental pearl” is appropriate only for natural pearls like those from the Persian Gulf. Identify and describe your pearls appropriately. • Be honest about the features of your products. Photo courtesy Mastoloni Pearls, Don’t overstate the growing period or nacre thickness. New York. Always disclose color-adding treatments such as dyeing and irradiation. (Some trade organizations advocate disclosure of bleaching as well.) For the complete versions of these and other guidelines visit the FTC website at www.ftc.gov/bcp/guides/jewel- gd.htm.

Photo courtesy Tahiti Perles.

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RECAP OF KEY POINTS

• Although pearls are generally classified as colored gems, they’re special in many ways. Customers recognize this instinctively. In sales presentations there are a number of themes you can use to enhance customers’ appreciation of pearls. • Pearls are surrounded by rich cultural and historical traditions. They’ve long been symbols of love and purity. Today, pearl is the birthstone for the month of June, and gems for the 3rd and 30th anniversaries. • Natural pearls are produced by certain mollusks, usually when an irritant enters the shell and becomes coated with nacre. They were once found around the world, but have become rare due to overfishing and pollution. • The cultured pearl industry began in Japan almost 100 years ago, and spread to about a dozen countries in the past fifty years. Most Akoya pearls come from Japan and China. Australia, Indonesia, and the Philippines produce South Sea pearls. The islands of French Polynesia are sources of Tahitian pearls. China is the leading freshwater pearl supplier, with Japan and the US adding minor quantities. • Natural pearls form without human help, but pearl culturing involves human intervention and care. A key step is nucleation. The type, number, and sizes of nuclei inserted depend on the mollusk. Saltwater pearls are bead-nucleated. Most freshwater pearls are tissue-nucleated. Growing periods and success rates vary, but every cultured pearl represents years of skilled labor and triumph over great odds. • After harvest, cultured pearls are processed to improve their appearance. Most pearls are washed and buffed. Akoyas and freshwater pearls are often bleached, and may be color-treated. Pearls for necklaces must be drilled, sorted, and strung. Expert work adds to quality and value at each step. • Six factors that affect the value of cultured pearls are size, shape, color , luster, surface, and nacre. Matching is important for pearls in necklaces and many other jewelry styles. Different kinds of pearls have differing potentials with regard to most of these factors, so highlighting individual possibilities is essential in sales presentations. • Cultured pearls and pearl jewelry offer customers endless choices of beauty and value. As a result, wardrobing is a concept that works very well with pearls. By starting with versatile basics and adding new items over time, customers can build a collection that allows them to express every mood and rise to every occasion with the timeless beauty of pearls.

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LESSON 5 FOLLOW-UP CHECKLIST

____ Make a list of the pearl jewelry in your showcases. Compare features of different kinds of pearls and create benefits for each feature. Then role-play a brief presentation for each kind. (Keep your statements positive and non-judgmental, so the customer will be confident about her decision, whatever it may be.) ___ Develop and practice an explanation of pearl culturing and preparation. Focus on facts that build appreciation for pearls’ beauty, rarity, and value. ____ Review the full text of the FTC Guides on pearls. Discuss any questions with your manager. With coworkers, role-play explaining the difference between cultured and natural pearls. ____ Visit these websites for additional facts, images, and inspirations: Cultured Pearl Association of America: pearlinfo.com GIE Perles de Tahiti: www.tahiti-blackpearl.com South Sea Pearl Consortium: www.sspc.net

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