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DESIGNER Project Cuckoo Clock While the unique shape of this cuckoo clock may be the fi rst thing you notice, your eye will soon catch other, more subtle details.

locks are one of my favorite things Cto build and I couldn’t tell you why. (If you follow Woodsmith on social media, you may have seen me post about clocks I’ve built.) Maybe it’s their small size, and the fact that they (usually) go together quickly. Or, it might be the fact that every one that I build ends up as a gift for someone, and that makes me feel good. Regardless, I always get excited when a clock project comes up. And this cuckoo clock is no exception. I have a little bit of a confession, how- ever. As much as I love to build clocks, I don’t actually have a standalone clock in my house. And that’s because most clocks don’t fit into the modern décor of my house. But, this fresh take on a cuckoo clock might fit the bill. MODERN DETAILS. The most obvious feature of this clock is it’s shape. It’s about as far from a traditional Black Forest clock as you can get. You might think that some tricky miters are what the case shape. But upon closer look, you’ll see the joinery is actually angled . Building upon the modern theme, the hour markers, hands, and pendulum arm are made from aluminum. Finally, two dif- ferent species are used on the clock. The case is cherry, while the face is made from Douglas that’s been textured. Overall, this small clock project packs in some great techniques.

34 • Woodsmith / No. 243 Written by: Logan Wittmer; Project Design: Dillon Baker Illustrations: Dirk Ver Steeg Woodsmith.com • 35 6%/8

NOTE: Cut left 75° side long and C sneak up on TOP final length (4!/4"x 6!!/16") 95° a.

NOTE: All case 5!/16 parts are made from !/2"-thick

B !/8 1!!/16 LEFT SIDE 12 15!/16 (4!/4"x 12#/8") b.

BOTTOM (4!/4"x 4%/8") !/8 1 D

A RIGHT SIDE NOTE: Cut sides first (4!/4"x 15!/16") then cut top and bottom to fit 115°

75°

4&/16

Build the CASE c. d.

Like most builds, the starting point for me always tends to be the largest part of the project. And for this clock, that’s the case. The 1 parts are made from ⁄2"-thick cherry. The case is assembled using angled rabbets. FIT THE SIDES. The first thing I Before you swap out your WORK. One thing you’ll took care of was the regular table for a want to pay attention to are the two sides of the case to size. blade to cut the rabbets, rabbets on the left side (Figure This started by them you need to first define the 2). Because of the angle of these to thickness and then cutting angled shoulders on the right rabbets, your dado blade will them to length at the table side. You can see this in Figure leave a little bit of waste in the saw. Take note that the ends of 1 on the next page. Once the inside corner. You can see this each piece are cut at an angle. angled shoulders are cut, set in Figure 2b. Some paring with See the main drawing above. your saw back to 90° and load a chisel will clean up that waste, up a dado blade. Then make as seen in Figure 3. { The switch has an integrated light sensor. It shuts the a cut to remove the rest of the After the rabbets are cut in the cuckcoo off during the nighttime hours. waste, as seen in detail ‘1b’. sides, go ahead and cut the top

36 • Woodsmith / No. 243 FIRST: Band and bottom to length. Here, take an opening for a case together light cuts to sneak up on the fit. switch that will NOTE: Case is not glued yet GROOVES & HOLES. Once you’re be added later happy with the fi t of the case, (Figure 4). you’re ready to do a little more Then, head work on the parts. This starts over to the by cutting a around the inside front edge on each of to remove the case parts. I did this at the the rest of SECOND: Set case THIRD: Reduce . See detail ‘b’ on the the waste. !/4 on front and outline by " back blanks and previous page for the groove Check the fit and cut out trace outline dimensions. At this point, cut of the switch the for the back also in its place and clean up both TRACE THE SHAPE. With the case (detail ‘c’ previous page). the slot and the switch opening clamped up, position it on the Now you can set aside the with a and sandpaper. stock you’ve selected for the right side and top. You’ll need front and back panels and trace to cut a slot in the bottom for FRONT & BACK around it. After removing the 1 the pendulum arm, and a small Now you can use a band case, reduce the outline by ⁄4" opening on the left side for a clamp to hold your clock case and cut it out at the band saw. switch. Both of these start at together. Don’t glue it together Then, it’s a simple matter of the press. Define the ends just yet though. You’ll first transferring the shape to your of the slot in the bottom piece need to use the clamped case second piece of stock and cutting with a couple of holes. In the to help define the shape of the out the back. Finally, smooth the side piece, drill holes to create front and back panels. edges with a . CASE CONSTRUCTION

1 a. b. 2 a. b.

A B

Tilt blade 15° Tilt blade 25°

Cut the Rabbets. Using a crosscut blade, cut the angled Left Case Rabbet. Repeat the process on the left side as you shoulder of the rabbets on the right case side fi rst. Then, use a did on the right. Start with the angled shoulder fi rst, then clean dado blade to remove the remainder of the waste. out the waste, leaving the corner waste that you can’t reach.

3 a. 4 a. B Waste

!/4" brad point bit

B

Chisel Out Waste. Use a wide chisel to remove the corner Switch Opening. At the drill press, drill starter holes on the waste that can’t be reached with the saw . Chisel down left side of the case. Then, use a scroll saw to saw out the the shoulder fi rst, then pare in from the cheek side. waste, creating an opening for the switch/light sensor combo.

Woodsmith.com • 37 NOTE: Front is made from !/4"-thick . Mounting blocks are !/2"-thick softwood Cuckoo mechanism 4#/16

Movement Door trim ring MOUNTING BLOCKS (&/16"x 3!/4") F

%/16"-dia. !/4"-dia. hole, !/8"-deep FRONT (6!/2"x 14%/16") 1%/8 E

#6 x 1!/2" Ph 6%/8 5 woodscrew

3#/8 NOTE: See Sources on page 67 for clock components !/4"-dia. x !/8"-thick aluminum plug a. Complete the FRONT

A clock isn’t much of a clock if b. it doesn’t tell the time. Likewise, a cuckoo clock isn’t much of a cuckoo clock if the bird doesn’t have a door to come out of. Add- ing those elements is up next. CENTERLINE. Before you start attacking the front of the clock with layout lines, it’s impor- tant to fi nd the centerline. But, because there are no right angles on the clock, it isn’t critical that While you’re at the drill press, It’s a little tight, but get it as close the face is perfectly plumb. drill the center hole also. This will as you can. Then, drill a starter You’re going for a reference be for the clock movement post. hole in each side (Figure 1) and line that will help you align the For mounting the movement cut out the opening at the scroll cuckoo door to the hour marks. on the thin front, two blocks are saw. Here again, fi ne tune the fit After you’ve marked a center- glued on the back (see above). with a fi le and some sandpaper line, drill the holes for the hour DOOR OPENING. Inevitably, the until the trim ring fi ts well. markers. For my clock, I drilled fi rst thing everyone is drawn to With everything cut into the the quarter locations only, as when they see a cuckoo clock is front, I added a little texture to seen in the main drawing above. the little bird. It’s always a treat the surface. To do this, I used when it pops out and tweets a brass in my drill. < Using a wire brush on the soft Douglas fi r its song. To make the opening, Brush the front with the grain front will wear away the softer areas of the I traced the door trim ring that to wear away the softer areas of wood. This leaves a subtle textured effect. came with the clock movement. grain. See left photo.

38 • Woodsmith / No. 243 A LITTLE METAL WORK. Now you can switch out of woodworking mode into mode Minute FULL-SIZE HAND PATTERNS — at least for a little bit. Here, hand you’ll be making the hands of the clock. I started off by laying Cap the hands out on a piece of alu- minum and the holes Ferrule for the post. Then, you can cut them out with a . The 2 thin aluminum cuts easily, but 1!/2 go slow. Finally, a quick sanding Hour NOTE: Aluminum for hand evens up the shape and adds a hands is !/8"-thick nice matte sheen to the hands. HOUR MARKERS. While you’re in metalworking gear, go ahead and cut some small plugs from !/2 !/2 %/32 a section of aluminum rod to fi t "-dia. !/4"-dia. the holes on the face. Because I textured the face of my clock, I installed my plugs with the The only difference this time is front and receives a ferrule for rougher cut face out and epox- to apply glue to the rabbets as the hour hand. The hour hand ied them in place. you’re assembling it. Don’t for- is then pressed onto the ferrule ASSEMBLY. Once the epoxy is get to install the front before the (epoxy the hour hand to the fer- dry, you can assemble the clock. top is glued on. rule if needed), and is followed I took a moment to prefi n- ADD THE MOVEMENT. With the by the minute hand and cap. ish the front of my clock with glue on the case dry, you can Both the ferrule and the cap amber . If you like that remove the clamp and install come with the movement and are two-tone look, prefi nishing the the movement. The movement brass. These, along with the door front before glueup makes it a is mounted to a pair of blocks and trim ring, are painted silver lot easier. By now, you’ve prob- I glued to the back of the front before being installed. Now it’s ably clamped the case together a panel (main drawing, previous time to get the rest of the internal few times to test fi t everything. page). The post goes through the components finished and wired.

SHAPING THE OPENING & MAKING HANDS

1 2 3

#/16"-dia. brad point bit File radius to match hole

Drill hole first

Drill Door Holes. Drill holes in the front Cut Out Hands. Lay out the hands on Round Ends. Smooth out the profi le for the screw posts. Use those holes as a piece of aluminum. Use a hacksaw to of the hands with a fi le. Finish the starter holes to saw out the door waste. cut out the hand shape. hands by rounding the post end.

Woodsmith.com • 39 Wires with extension added a. b.

#4 x #/4" Rh 18-8 nut woodscrew

Sawtooth hanger c.

18-8 x #/4" Rh machine screw E BACK Switch/sensor (6!/2"x 14%/16") combo

NOTE: Back is made Pendulum !/4"- hook from thick fir. &/16"-dia. Bob is made from #/8"-thick hardwood &/16

Pendulum arm (&/16"x 5") #/4"-dia. #/4

#6 x #/8" Fh 5 woodscrew 2"-dia.

G G BOB (2"x 2") %/32"-dia. hole w/ Wiring the CLOCK

The internal components of the wires and stripping the ends. It also has a built-in light sen- clock consist of three parts— Then, I soldered a short exten- sor that turns the cuckoo off the movement you’ve already sion between the cut wires to when it’s dark out. If your installed, the cuckoo that’s been lengthen them. A few wraps of wires to the sensor are a little fitted, and the switch that has a electrical tape (or better yet, heat short, you can lengthen them built-in light sensor. shrink tubing) will protect the the same way as the cuckoo SHORT WIRES. The wires on the soldered connection. Hooking mechanism wires. cuckoo mechanism are too up the wires is as easy as lining PENDULUM. The fi nal thing short to reach the movement up the connector with the appro- to take care of is the pen- (and possibly the switch if you priate slot and pushing it in. dulum. Keeping with the place it differently than shown HUSH LITTLE BIRDIE. The switch on modern-aluminum theme, I above). To extend the wires, the side of the clock is simply made the pendulum arm out you’ll want to first remove the installed with a pair of screws. of aluminum. Here again, it’s a mechanism if you installed The switch allows you to con- simple matter of drilling a hole it. I started by snipping the trol the volume of the cuckoo. in the end of the bar stock and

40 • Woodsmith / No. 243 trimming it to size with a hack- need to cut a shallow recess saw and fi ling it to shape. The using a Forstner bit and a chisel pendulum hook that came with (Figure 2). Once that’s cut, you the movement slips right over can attach the bob to the arm the end of the aluminum bar using a short wood screw. and connects it to the pivoting The last thing to take care of is mechanism on the movement. installing the back. By looking at The friction fi t is enough to the illustration on the previous hold it in place. page, you’ll see that it’s simply WOOD RING. To visually tie the screwed in place. To hang the pendulum back into the case clock, I used a saw-tooth hanger. of the clock, I made the bob out This fresh take on a Black of wood. In this case, the same Forest classic is tastefully done. cherry I used on the case. It’s modern, fun, and, not to Cutting the circle is pretty mention, a quick build. And, straightforward and you can see because I know someone will the steps below. A few minutes ask — if you’d like to see a at the drill press will produce a short video of the cuckoo in { The cuckoo has three modes — high, low wood bob (Figure 1). To attach action, you can find a video on and off. You can choose the setting that to the pendulum arm, you’ll Woodsmith.com. W works best for you. MAKE THE BOB

Make the bob for the clock 1 2 by fi rst cutting a blank with a . After plugging the &/16"Forstner pilot hole, drill out the center bit, !/8"-deep hole using a Forstner bit. Then, a. while still at the drill press, drill a shallow recess on the back. A chisel can be used to pare #/4" Forstner away the rest of the waste, bit creating an area to attach the pendulum arm.

Materials, Supplies & Cutting Diagram 1 1 1 3 3 A Right Side (1) ⁄2 x 4 ⁄4 - 15 ⁄16 G Bob (1) ⁄8 x 2 - 2 • (1) #6 x ⁄8" Fh Woodscrew 1 1 3 3 B Left Side (1) ⁄2 x 4 ⁄4 - 12 ⁄8 • (1) Cuckoo Clock Kit • (2) 18-8 x ⁄4" Machine Screws w/Nuts 1 1 11 1 1 C Top (1) ⁄2 x 4 ⁄4 - 6 ⁄16 • (1) ⁄8" x ⁄2" - 10" Aluminum Bar • (1) Sawtooth Hanger 1 1 5 1 D Bottom (1) ⁄2 x 4 ⁄4 - 4 ⁄8 • (1) ⁄4" Aluminum Rod • 16- Wire 1 1 5 3 E Front/Back (2) ⁄4 x 6 ⁄2 - 14 ⁄16 • (8) #4 x ⁄4" Rh Woodscrews 7 1 1 1 F Mounting Blocks (2) ⁄16 x ⁄2 - 3 ⁄4 • (4) #6 x 1 ⁄2" Rh Woodscrews !/4"x 7" - 36" Fir (1.8 Sq. Ft.)

E E

To see a video of the cuckoo in !/2"x 5" - 48" Cherry (1.7 Sq. Ft.) action, go to Woodsmith.com G ABCD

F

Woodsmith.com • 41