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NOVEMBER 2016

Night of Stars The Non-Conformists

3 FGI Frontliner The Future of : Opposing Ideas; Shared Beliefs NIGHT OF STARS

4 FGI Frontliner Best-Kept Secret

5 Five Questions with a Rising Star Brandon Maxwell Michal Kadar 1 2 Upcoming Events

THE PUBLICATIONS COMMITTEE 3 4

Chair Katie Kretschmer Editor/Contributing Writer

Writers / Editors Wendy D'Amico, Creative Consultant Nancy Jeffries, Contributing Writer Carolyn Moss, Contributing Writer Melissa Pastore, Contributing Writer 5 6 7 8

Graphic Design 1. Interior Design Honoree Bunny Williams and presenter Amy Astley Debora DeCarlo, DDC Graphics 2. Humanitarian Award:Tommy and Dee Hilfiger and presenter 3.Presenters Baz Lurhmann and Catherine Martin with Lord & Taylor Fashion Oracle Andrew Bolton 4. Presenter Nicki Minaj and Superstar Riccardo Tisci Photography 5. Auteur of Style: and presenter Margaret Russell Billy Farrell Agency 6. Fashion Star and presenter Stefano Tonchi Nancy Jeffries 7. Innovation in E-Commerce Retail: Julie Wainwright, founder of The RealReal, and presenter Amy Fine Collins Jan Klier 8. Fashion Star Erdem Moralioglu and presenter Ruth Wilson Maryanne Grisz 1 CONTINUED ON PAGE 2 Night of Stars ......

Superstar Despite the rain, the stars were shining in full Ricardo Tischi –– Givenchy force at FGI’s annual Night of Stars gala at Cipriani Wall Street on October 27. The best and Fashion Stars brightest of fashion, retail, design and beauty Tory Burch, Erdem Moralioglu gathered to celebrate the Non-Conformists, Humanitarian Award those who “create change, make a difference and Tommy & Dee Hilfiger challenge the norm,” according to FGI President Margaret Hayes in her welcoming remarks. Lord & Taylor Fashion Oracle 9 Andrew Bolton Hayes thanked the evening’s generous Beauty sponsors: Lord & Taylor, Hearst Magazines, Arcade Pamela Baxter Beauty, Givaudan and LIM College. She also thanked the patrons: Bunny Williams, Cadar, Sustainability Givenchy, H&M, IFF, L’Oréal Luxe, Levi Strauss & Daniel Kulle for H&M Co., LVMH, Movado, The Estée Lauder Companies, Inc., The RealReal, Media and Tory Burch. Joe Zee Innovation in Retail E-Commerce The evening’s emcee, Simon Doonan, a Julie Wainwright –– The RealReal non-conformist if there ever was one, shared a 10 recollection of the late Bill Cunningham and his Fashion Provocateur little-known penchant for punk-rock taxidermy and the evening got underway, with a hefty lineup of Brand Heritage 13 awards along with copious good food and James Curleigh for Levi Strauss drinks. Along the way, Iris Apfel received a standing ovation—not usually seen at an event Interior Design where everyone deserves one—and by the time the Bunny Williams night was over, the rain had let up (a little). Auteur of Style –– Katie Kretschmer Iris Apfel 11 Editor/Contributing Writer

12 13 14 15 16 17

9. Beauty Honoree Pam Baxter, FGI president Margaret Hayes and presenter Dayle Haddon 10. Host Simon Doonan, presenter Polly Mellon and Media Honoree Joe Zee 11. Presenter Constance White, Fashion Provocateur Honoree Pat Cleveland and presenter Stephen Burrows 12. Presenter Kim Hastreiter 13. Brand Heritage Honoree James Curleigh for Levi Strauss and Co. 14. Sally LaPointe 15. Karolina Kurkova 16. Christina Ricci 17. Julie Gilhart 18. Presenter Zosia Mamet and Sustainability Award Daniel Kulle for H&M 18 19 19.Monica Rich Kosann, FGI Board of Directors 2 FGI Frontliner The Future of Fashion: Opposing Ideas; Shared Beliefs ......

Lidewij Edelkoort Gabi Asfour Pascale Gatzen

Lidewij Edelkoort, dean of Hybrid Design Studies at A Return to the Loom the process is time consuming: 3-D modeling, The New School/ in New Gatzen utilizes fibers from , scanning and 3-D printing for the Oscillation York City, is a distinguished forecaster of design where she has collaborated with Sara Healy at Dress took 600 hours. trends. Her Paris-based company, Trend Union, Buckwheat Bridge Angoras, a wind- and solar- which is celebrating its 30th anniversary this year, powered fiber farm and spinning mill in the “There is a great deal of time invested in these creates trend books that are used by strategists, Hudson Valley. It features the wool of Cormo pieces, so the creators have to think about designers and marketers at international brands. sheep (a cross of Corriedale rams and Saxon longevity and sustainability of the pieces. Each merino ewes), which yields a fine fiber that, when shape means one digital file, so you have to create Edelkoort was joined by designer Gabi Asfour of blended with mohair, offers luxurious softness and them in layers,” said Asfour. The swatches on threeAsfour and artist and designer Pascale Gatzen strength. The warp yarn is composed of 70 per- display showed the materials’ composition and on September 21, for a discussion about the inter- cent mohair and 30 percent fine wool, in natural their delicacy, going from hard to soft. “The section of design, production, the third dimension white, and the weft yarn is 20 percent mohair and excitement,” said Asfour, “is to print in so many and the construction of textiles and clothes of the 80 percent white wool blended with different colors, and go from soft to rigid.” percentages of colored goat fiber in brown, black future, held at FGI headquarters. A Compelling Medium and white. The mohair has strength, weight and “The instinctual creation you have by working with luster, while the wool has crimp and loft; com- Edelkoort most recently designed a program, your hands, where you can work organically, is bined, the fabric is lightweight, soft and comfort- with her executive assistant, Willem Schenk, very important to me,” said Asfour. “I think that is able against the skin. Gatzen and company weave incorporating the boundless possibilities of textile missing in fashion. This spark was super new to on backstrap looms, predominantly used in design in a diverse, citywide textile initiative for me when I saw the students working at Parsons,” Guatemala and Asia, as well as board looms. Each New York Textile Month, in September. The event he said, noting also how taken he was with the of the jackets they create is made to size, with promoted textile awareness and creativity, and love Gatzen put into the garments she created by everything woven together in a continuous included exhibitions and demonstrations at hand, and how that had inspired him. numerous textile studios, museums, galleries, and garment. The collective also makes the looms it workshops throughout the month. The accompany- uses, and the weaving is often done as a group, “The material is also like a being,” said Edelkoort. ing publication, Talking Textiles, begins with an which is “meditative and pleasurable,” Gatzen “It is a new frontier. When you see the sample, essay by Edelkoort, titled “Crossroad of Cloth,” says. Explaining the uniqueness of each garment, you really feel the energy. Putting time into things which unites the diverse aspects of textile produc- Gatzen said, “The jackets are made for each is a very new luxury,” said Edelkoort. tion, from the high-tech to slow textile production customer. One of the customers had some fabric created on hand looms. of her grandmother’s woven into the jacket.” Gatzen noted, “The material has its own excitement, and now we’re discovering the new properties of Innovative Textile Design Movement and Dimension in 3-D Printing linen. You’re in service of what the material can Innovative textile design is thriving, and Edelkoort Asfour discussed the threeAsfour collaboration in do. It’s a dynamic relationship.” Asfour said, “I cited several examples, such as the Unbridled 3-D printing, citing two pieces recently shown at see fashion going in two different directions. Fast Carpet initiative, which turned design sketches The Jewish Museum, in . One was fashion can’t go away, but what’s new today is into carpets, and the evolution of industrial fabrics made out of a fractal weave, utilizing a mathematical that fashion has a lot of outlets. There will be two with more daring concept and design, and noted a formulation to create its shape. The other used sides. Some will be looking for fast fashion and Textile Walk around the textile studios in New York. a material designed to retain its memory: Even others will be looking for handwork and details. after sitting in the garment, it would go back to its Fast fashion has gone to a place where it needs The two artist-designers on the evening’s program original shape. something else to excite it. What Pascale Gatzen is are a part of this movement. Gatzen is part of doing is making luxury in a different way.” the textile collective Friends of Light. “In this “Printing can be done with wool, cotton and silk. collective, where they start weaving straight from It can mix carbon and fabric, make a stacked As the event wrapped up, Don O'Neill, creative the animals, the team creates woven couture, weave, or include such properties as water director of Theia, summed up: “Gabby and woven to measure garments. It is unbeatable, repellency. It can also change from solid to Pascale are redefining luxury. In today’s hectic compared to anything made by a machine,” said elastic, and we can apply such surfaces as animal- world, our greatest luxury is time. Time has Edelkoort. skin textures. One garment we created was based become a rare and precious commodity. They are on reptile skin properties, with a scalelike taking precious time—huge, tremendous, luxurious Asfour weaves garments using 3-D printing, appearance,” said Asfour. He described a parabola amounts of time—and investing it in the creation of creating materials designed to retain memory. weave that became the substrate of one of the their craft. Nothing could be more luxurious.” They also may have features such as water dresses. “Quantum vibrations featured the geometry repellency, or be able to change shape or even that lives within vibration, which inspired the look — Nancy Jeffries shift from rigid to elastic. of [the Oscillation Dress],” said Asfour. He said Contributing Writer, [email protected] 3 FGI Frontliner Best-Kept Secret......

From left: Timothy Pope, Nicole Fischelis and Simon Collins

In Timothy Pope ’s poll of the audience, the —where $10,000 is said to be the “Paris,” Pope said, “is a life-changing experience prevailing opinion was that the majority of those starting price for a little something for day, and a for those obsessed with beauty.” And couture, he who bring their cash-laden selves to the ateliers of heavily embroidered evening number can run continued, “is not at all intimidating. It’s gracious, the Paris haute couture are Saudi princesses and many hundreds of thousands—is, according to beautiful” and, he opined that it’s better to ele- women who are attached in some way—daughters Pope, about perfection that starts at the feel and vate your taste level and have less but of a better and wives (or otherwise)—of Russian oligarchs. fit of a garment. About clothes made for one quality. But, wait for it… the big spenders are (and always woman alone; for her life. have been, since Charles Frederick Worth, Nicole Fischelis, group vice president at Macy’s, thought to be the father of haute couture, opened Pope’s relationships involve shuttling to Paris, and FGI Board Member, opened the event, thanking his house in 1858) highly successful American where he guides his clients in their selections and the museum, the speakers, Special Events women who need clothes that prepare them to go oversees needed adjustments as well as fittings Committee member Erica Roseman for helping to out in the world and that cloak them in an aura of that may require many trips back and forth for up bring the event to fruition—and Fendi for the power. to a year before completion. Acting as the bridge extraordinarily generous sponsorship. between client and designer, Pope explained that Pope, who’s been front and center at the haute the couturiers themselves do not work directly The evening ended with a screening of couture for more than 20 years, manages his with clients, but rather it’s the head of atelier Fendi Legends and Fairy Tales: Backstage, eponymous consultancy where he advises and whose sole purpose in life is to guarantee the the spectacular autumn-winter 2017 couture show guides clients on style, what to wear to what complete satisfaction and happiness of every that took place in July on a glass panel over the and when, and in their selections of tailleurs , client and to know which client has what and Trevi Fountain previously seen only by the 200 robes de soirée and big-time dazzlers in the way where, ensuring that every garment is “one to a people who were actually there. of gem-encrusted earrings, bracelets, brooches country”; a rule strictly enforced. (Pope is also and rings. known to dash to the side of a client deep in a –– Wendy D'Amico fashion crisis.) Creative Consultant, [email protected] An FGI Frontliner, “Through The Looking Glass; a Mirror on Couture,” featured Mr. Pope in So, what does it all mean? Pope was careful to conversation with Simon Collins who, after a point out that haute couture is an art steeped in career as a fashion designer and creative director history and tradition. Yes, it’s expensive—very; for several top-tier brands, spent seven years as time consuming; exclusive; available only to the dean of the School of Fashion at Parson’s School very few who cherish, and can afford, the true lux- of Design. Held on September 7th at New York’s ury of handmade, one-of-a-kind clothes. But those Museum of Arts and Design, the event was purchases guarantee the employment of thou- sponsored by Fendi in celebration of their 90th sands and thousands of sewers and craftspeople anniversary, and the survival of entire industries—feathers, beads, embroidery, lace, flowers and textiles, In a conversation that, by virtue of a true insider’s among them, and sometimes even that of a whole expertise and experience, had every ear in the village. house leaning in, Collins pressed his new pal (though the two appeared to have been friends for Bringing the conversation to three-dimensional, years) about his relationships with the couturiers real life was a series of mannequins, clothed and their maisons and with his clients, who in couture and accompanied by a slide show remain nameless (except for a few), and what it illustrating the process from croquis to the all means. finished garment.

4 ive questions with the Rising Stars 5 Calendar of Events Each January, FGI recognizes a group of up-and-coming designers, entrepreneurs and other creatives in the fashion, retail, beauty and decor fiel ds.

As the rising stars of the industry, we thought it might be enlightening to ask them some questions about how they got this far, and what they see for the future. We've been featuring their replies here. Wednesday, November 16, 2016 “Future Shock: What’s Ahead”

A Frontliner panel discussion focusing on what to expect and how to adapt to a future impacted by seismic shifts across the global economic, cultural, lifestyle and social landscape.

Moderator: Kevin Wassong Brandon Maxwell Michal Kadar for Cadar Panelists: Adam Gam, Andy Marks, Rising Star Rising Star Hilary Milnes, Erica Orange winner for womenswear winner for fine jewelry Fashion Group Headquarters 8 West 40th Street,7th Floor 1. How has winning the Rising Star award affected 3. If you weren’t in your current profession, what 5:30-6:00 p.m. Reception your career, and how do you see it shaping your would you be doing (and why)? 6:00-7:00 p.m. Program business/career in the future? BM: I would be a photographer or filmmaker. I BRANDON MAXWELL: The Rising Star award went to art school and studied photography since was the first official recognition I have received in I was 12 so it's a big passion of mine. my career and my life! The award has given me the confidence to move forward, and the added MK: I love anything to do with creativity, design, motivation to make the best clothing possible for style and elemental beauty. my retailers and customers. 4. Who or what inspired you to do what you do? MICHAL KADAR: Winning the Rising Star award BM: I have been surrounded by strong women my was a very special honor. It helped create won- entire life. Nothing makes me happier than derful opportunities for me, the most special making women feel beautiful, and that is always being Bergdorf Goodman, which will debut Cadar my priority while I am designing. this coming fall. Indeed, a dream come true. MK: For me, every woman is a muse and every 2. A recent article in looks at artist is an inspiration. My most important the effect of social media and the need for “instant inspiration in life is my husband. Through his gratification” on and the retail cycle. love and kindness, he has shown me that nothing January 26th, 2017 How do you see the role of fashion week and the in life is too complicated and anything is Rising Star Luncheon and Awards Ceremony runway show in the future? possible. Cipriani 42nd Street, New York BM: It’s true that the current cycle serves a 5. What advice would you give to the next class of purpose as it is. It gives smaller designers like me Rising Star nominees? time to show, take orders and produce the orders For more information for delivery in season. We make very intricate BM: Enjoy the moment! designs that cannot be produced quickly. I also And to purchase tickets and/or tables think there are many ways to approach this MK: If you capture what inspires you, cultivate Visit www.fgi.org or call 212.302.5511 movement for instant gratification, and we have your talent and love what you do, your work will only scratched the surface of the possibilities. become your passion. It is extremely important to be part of FGI because of the community of MK: I love the energy and the creativity of fash- extraordinarily talented and passionate people you ion week, having been a fashion designer for more will meet, as well as the industry credibility, than fifteen years. As a result of the desire for distinction and knowledge you will receive. instant gratification, combined with the effect of Embrace and enjoy the journey, no matter the social media, fashion has become “real time” and challenges or obstacles, and always believe in fashion week is now an immediate and global yourself, be true to yourself and follow your experience that is no longer intimate or limited to instincts. those in the industry. I became a fine jewelry designer because I prefer enduring gratification that is very intimate, personal and timeless. 5