Volume XIX Number 12 December 2003
Monthly Program Dec. 10 Avalanche A Winter Telemark Ascent awareness of Mount Logan lectures & A slide presentation by mountain guide and CMC member Ted Handwerk field trip Join us on Dec. 10 at 7:30pm at the Boul- There will be an avalanche der Clubroom as Ted shares his winter transceiver lecture with lim- adventures telemark skiing 19,800' ited practice on Tuesday, Mount Logan in the Canadian Yukon. Dec. 2, 7-10pm. On Wednes- Ted calls this a heavy trip, with much day, Dec. 3, from 6-10pm to share concerning the ever-important there will be a lecture on group dynamics, winter survival, and avalanche awareness. Both misjudgments of epic proportions like lectures will be at the CMC their pilot dropping them off on the Boulder Clubroom. This will wrong glacier in the middle of the largest be followed by an all-day glaciated area outside the Polar Regions. field trip on Saturday, Dec. 6. This enhanced their journey for an To register, please call Diana additional twenty days as they got reori- Wright at 303-554-7878. She ented. Did they ever find and climb the will answer any questions mountain? Why, upon his return to pick you might have and give up the climbers, did the pilot forget to specific instructions of put the planes skis down before land- where to send your registra- ing? Did they ever get off the glacier? tion fee of $25. All CMC Come learn how Ted and crew overcame members are welcome to At the CMC Boulder Groups annual dinner, these logistical mishaps to find joy ski- attend the Wednesday night Ken Nolan unfurls the list of peaks he has climbed. ing the Bagley ice fields and climbing in lecture, but only those who See page 3 for more photos of the festivities. the dramatic Alaska/Yukon Saint Elias have paid the registration fee photo by Jim Groh mountain range. will be allowed to attend the Tuesday night beacon practice and the Teds climbing adventures began with Saturday field trip. Beginner ski touring pushes and shoves from his father, a 10th clinic January 6 mountain division veteran. Through the You must have good winter travel skills, years Ted has worked for wilderness winter boots and clothing, snow shoes, If you have not tried backcountry ski schools, guiding and trekking companies or telemark skis to attend the field day. touring, or want to improve your tech- and was a park ranger in Alaska. His nique, dont miss this clinic on January 6 climbing trips included expeditions to at 7pm in the Boulder Clubroom. Denali, Mount Logan and Mount Saint The clinic is for beginners (never been on Elias in Alaska; Condariri, Huayna Potosi continued on page 2, see Touring Clinic and Ilimani in South America; and Everest, Kangchengunga, Shishapangma and Ama Dablam in Asia. Touring Clinic, continued from page 1 Annual dinner illness? skis), advanced beginners (downhilled or cross- If you attended the annual dinner, you countried a few times), and beginning intermediate know that two people fainted during the (cross-countried some but need to learn more skills) presentation In order to help rule out the The clinic covers an overview of the sport, clothing, food as the cause we would like to know equipment, technique, and scheduled winter ski trips if anyone else felt sick that evening If This will be followed by one or two days (Jan 10 and you did, please send e-mail to 17) in the backcountry, emphasizing the diagonal sdg0325@aolcom or call the Clubroom stride, uphill and downhill techniques, and turns at 303-554-7688 and let us know Participants should be fit enough for a day of moderate exercise in variable conditions Beginners must sign up for both days at no extra cost Others can come out one day or both days at no extra cost, but must inform us of this when signing up Equipment will be available for rent, at a discount, for those who need it Get on the list! Anyone can attend the indoor seminar, but participation in the on-snow sessions is limited, so call the Clubroom, 303-554-7688, early to sign up and pay the $13 fee in ad- The weekly GPS electronic newsletter vance Call Pete Birkeland, 303-442-0304, about rentals or any other questions contains 5 to 10 paragraphs of timely announcements & other useful informa- Pat Butler and Pete Birkeland are co-leaders of the class tion Our e-mail currently has a little over 500 members Since the Boulder Group of the CMC has over 1,600 mem- Tundra Sale time correction bers, this means we arent reaching everybody by a long shot Whoops! Last months announcement of the 2003 Tundra Sale in- cluded the wrong times The sale is from 8-9:30pm at Neptune To be included on the Mountaineering in the Table Mesa shopping center on S Broadway list, simply send e- on Tuesday, Dec 2 mail to GPS editor Steve Gendron, For more information, contact John Keller at jkeller@maadcom sdg0325@aolcom, with the words GPS E-mail Newsletter in the Subject area You can include a message if you want, Dont forget! Mailing party December 18 but it isnt necessary Free yoga class Come to the Boulder Clubroom and help for trip leaders mail out the Compass! This is a relaxed way to meet people and give something As a benefit for volunteering and dedi- back to your favorite club cating their time to the CMC, Boulder Compass Group trip leaders can attend a free The next issue will be ready to mail on Thursday, December 18, at 5:30pm, so yoga class at the Clubroom from 6- Editors: Danita Dickinson, Dan Elliott, 7:30pm on Dec 12 please just drop in Phone 303-554-7688 Lisa Freidrich, Don Walker for more information Published monthly by: Boulder Group, In this class, taught by CMC member Colorado Mountain Club, 633 South Angel Lin, you will learn: Broadway, Unit N, Boulder 80305 Boulder Group Chair: Marilyn Fellows, basic postures (asanas) and varia- Marilyn&Fellows@ERATradewind&com tions of the Sun Salutations to Clubroom hours: Open Monday thru increase flexibility, strength and Thursday, 5 to 7 pm (Voicemail always balance activated&) breathing technique and how to use Telephone: 303-554-7688 it to maximize freedom of movement E-mail: bcmc@bcn&boulder&co&us basic techniques of meditation and Trip Change, Bowen Gulch Web Page: http://cmcboulder&org/ relaxation to cultivate inner stability Annual membership dues start at $35& For and mental clarity Diana Wrights ski tour to Bowen Gulch membership information, call the Clubroom& For more information about Angel, go to is listed in the activity schedule with We welcome announcements, articles, letters, wwwshriyogacom the date of December 7 The correct artwork, and photos Please submit material date is February 7 by the second Monday of the month for inclusion in the following month's issue E-mail: CompassNewsletter@earthinknet Harrowing experience at the 2003 Annual Dinner by Jim Groh The highlight of this years Boulder Group Annual Dinner was a narration, slide show and video show by Malcolm Daly, Boulder mountaineer and founder of Trango USA The show centered on Dalys epic climb of Thunder Mountain in the Alaska Range He took a long leader fall that ultimately cost him a foot The climb, the fall, the survival, and the rescue were jaw-droppers enough, but the most harrowing part was watching the show! The video footage of the rescue team cutting away Malcolms pants and boot, revealing a compound fracture and frostbite, caused many attendees to contemplate the ballroom ceiling, and two of them to faint dead away! (Both are doing much better, and the show continued after an Kurt and Eva Gerstle being honored for their 50-year CMC membership appropriate delay ) photo by Jim Groh Earlier in the evening, several unique ceremonies highlighted the festivities As always, the graduates of the Boulder attended, not counting the paramedics Ken Nolan was honored for climbing all Mountaineering School were named, as Anyone who stayed home this time Colorados 14ers, 13ers, and 12ers well as the graduates of the Hiking missed a doozy and really should con- Cleve Armstrong read a list of all the School, and all those who had volun- sider coming to next years dinner Its Boulder Group members who have teered for either school in any capacity always the first Sunday in November, a climbed 8000-meter peaks And we had were applauded Don Walker was inau- chance to schmooze with your climbing the pleasure of honoring 50-year mem- gurated as the new chair of the group in buddies, all dressed up and respectable bers Kurt and Eva Gerstle the annual election About 200 people And who knows what other excitement?
Sharing the rocks with raptors by Beverly Gholson, Chair Conservation and Trails Why do the parks people close popu- Steve: The raptors that use the cliffs lar climbing areas for raptor nesting? are golden eagles, prairie falcons and Why do the closed areas change dur- peregrine falcons These birds have ing the spring? How do they know very specific physical and biological what areas to close? These are some of nesting needs The rocks provide pro- the questions that the Boulder CMC tection for the young birds from preda- has received from our members tion by other animals and the proximity of a prey base such as nearby prairie As you are aware, each year about ten dog colonies minimizes the energy areas of the Boulder front range are needed to feed the young chicks raise them One species, the peregrine closed to climbers from February 1 falcon, was just recently removed from through July 31 to protect nesting rap- BG: Why is it valuable to protect these the endangered species list We, in tors I sat down with Steve Armstead, birds and their nests? Boulder, are very fortunate to have Lead Ranger/Naturalist with the City of Steve: By their nature as top of the peregrine falcons nesting here, as well Boulders Open Space and Mountain food chain predators, raptors arent as as three active golden eagle nests Parks to discuss some of these issues common as many other birds These BG: How do you know where the nests BG: What birds use the rocks in Boul- birds tend to reach sexual maturity are? der to nest and why is it important that later than other birds, have a smaller continued on page 6, see Raptors these areas be available to them? number of offspring and take longer to December 2003 Boulder Group Trips
Friday, November 28, 2003 Sunday, December 14, 2003 East Slab, The Dome I Climb, 5.5 Lost Lake Walk the bridge over Boulder Creek, then follow a Easy A disappearing crack on this short climb in Boulder Canyon. Hike from townsite of Hessie on scenic jeep road to Lost Bruce Immele 303 665-0888 Lake. Explore old mine site above lake. Easy pace. Louis F Genduso 303 530-3795 Saturday, December 06, 2003 Mt. Lincoln 14,286’ Class C Tuesday, December 16, 2003 From Quartzville Creek TH, we’ll do a gentle snowshoe up Ice Climb, Leaders Choice the east shoulder. If weather and group progress permit, Ice conditions change rapidly so the destination of this trip we’ll continue over Cameron and Bross. will be determined by the leader as the trip approaches. Ellen Flannelly 303 440-0130 Tom Walker 303 666-7199
Square Top Mtn. 13,794’ Diffi cult B Saturday, December 27, 2003 Although it missed being among 100 Highest by six feet, Forest Lakes Mod. II Ski Tour this mountain is a fun and beautiful climb in the From East Portal Trail, ski to lower and upper Forest Lakes, Guanella Pass area. Snowshoes and ice-axe required. BMS returning the same way for a fast downhill run. preferred. Willy Gully 303 939-8382 Seth W Allen 303 554-5546 Sunday, December 28, 2003 Little Raven Trail to Brainard Lake Saturday, December 13, 2003 Mod. II Ski Tour Brainard Cabin Easy Snowshoe The most exciting route to the Brainard Cabin. We will Snowshoe to CMC Brainard Lake cabin, have lunch and consider skiing up to Mitchell Lake. After a break for hot snowshoe back. Rada Perovic 720 635-7453 tea, zip back down via the Waldrop (north) trail. Saturday Social for Spirit and Sweat Moderate A Bruce Immele 303 665-0888 The Saturday Social is a half-day hike with a social spirit Thursday, January 01, 2004 and a sweaty end. We then try to warm up over some coffee Brainard Cabin Easy Snowshoe or lunch. We meet at Einsteins at the corner of Broadway Snowshoe to CMC Brainard Lake cabin, have lunch and and Baseline. Park in the greater BaseMar Shopping Center snowshoe back. lot. Please arrive at 9 AM and help decide our destination. Marilyn Fellows 303 499-6099 Come prepared to hike in any weather. Marilyn Fellows 303 499-6099 Saturday, January 03, 2004 East of the Sun, The Dome II Climb, 5.7 Zig-Zag, First Flatiron-East Face Pitch 1: Follow the cracks to the left. Climb over the three II Climb, 5.7 roofs. The move over the third roof is the crux; look for 3-4 pitches of slabs, dihedrals, and roofs. Join us for a fun a small notch to reach for with your left hand, and then climb. May rap or downclimb to escape. bring your left foot up and smear. Move left, follow the William Clopton 303 776-9612 crack up and right. Little Raven Trail to Brainard Lake Mod. II Ski Tour Pitch 2: Traverse right from belay station about 10 feet, and The most exciting route to the Brainard Cabin. then move up the prominent crack. Onto the face, follow the After a break for hot tea, zip back down via the Waldrop crack and the small pockets up and left. Crank the corner to (north) trail. the left side up the top via a hand jam. Walk off. Steve Priem 303 499-9024 William Clopton 303 776-961 What is a 12er????? by Jean Aschenbrenner It has come to our attention that there are some CMCers out there Each year, during the winter, names of those who have com- who do not know what 12ers, 13ers and 14ers are. In an effort to pleted milestones in the lists are published in Trail and Tim- share the knowledge, the following education is provided. berline. If you are interested in knowing more about recent accomplishments in Colorado peak-bagging, Roof of the 14ers: the 53 (or 54) Colorado peaks higher than 14,000'. Rockies A History of Colorado Mountaineering (3rd edi- 13ers: the 584 peaks in Colo- tion) by William Beuhler has an interesting section on Mod- rado above 13,000' (but less ern Mountaineering. than 14,000'). Broadening your horizons a bit, there are also 15 12ers: the 676 peaks in Colo- peaks over 14,000' in California and one more in rado above 12,000' (but less Washington. than 13,000'). Conversations like the following be- Only 3 people are known to have tween a flat-lander and a peak-bag- completed climbing the 12ers, ger are not uncommon: and 8 people have finished Peak-bagger: I finished the 13ers. climbing all the 13ers this Debating exactly which fall! peaks belong in the Flat-lander: Wow! Thats great! How many of the 14ers have lists provides hours of entertainment for inveterate peak-bag- you climbed? gers hence the hedging on the number of 14ers. To be counted as a ranked peak, the summit must rise at least 300 feet Peak-bagger: Arghhhh! above the saddles to higher summits. Not all of the traditional Although it might be possible to climb all the 13ers before fin- 14ers meet this criteria, but these are just details for the peak- ishing the 14ers, we hope you now realize that no self-respect- baggers to get hung up on. ing peak-bagger would ever miss the opportunity to climb all the A list of the 13ers is published in Colorados High Thirteeners 14ers before completing the 13ers. by Mike Garratt and Bob Martin. Garratt, Martin and Ken Editors note: As a newcomer to Colorado and the CMC, I Nolan have collaborated to compile a list of the Colorado dont know the lingo! Many thanks to Jean for this lesson. 12ers. These lists also include the unranked peaks those that do not satisfy the 300' rule. The unranked peaks can be every bit as interesting as the ranked peaks.
Speed climber Kellogg to speak Chad Kellogg will present Fast and Alone in the &+$'.(//2** )$67$1'$/21(,17+(7,(16+$1 Tien Shan on Saturday, December 13th at 7:30pm 6$785'$<'(&(0%(57+ in the Foss Auditorium of the American Mountain- %(1(),767+($1$72/,%28.5((9 eering Center in Golden. The talk will benefit the 0(025,$/)81' Anatoli Boukreev Memorial Fund. There is no '21$7,216:(/&20( charge for the presentation but donations are wel- 30 come. If youd like more information about the Fund, please check out www.boukreev.org. 1RUWKZHVWFOLPEHU&KDG.HOORJJKROGVWKHFXUUHQW VSHHGUHFRUGVIRU0W5DQLHUDQG'HQDOL-RLQXVDV&KDG Northwest climber Chad Kellogg holds the cur- WDONVDERXWKLVUHFHQWWULSWR.KDQ7HQJULLQWKH7LHQ 6KDQUHJLRQZKHUHKHEHDWWKH5XVVLDQVRQWKHLURZQ rent speed records for Mt. Ranier and Denali. WXUIGXULQJWKH)HVLWLYDO.KDQ7HQJUL6SHHG&OLPELQJ &KDPSLRQVKLSV+HZLOODOVRWHOOVWRULHVRIKLVVROR Chad will talk about his recent trip to Khan DVFHQWVRI3REHGDDQG.\UJ\]VWDQ¶V3HDN/HQLQ Tengri in the Tien Shan region where he beat the Russians on their own turf during the Festival Khan Tengri Speed Climbing Championships. He will also tell stories of his solo ascents of Pobeda and Kyrgyzstans Peak Lenin. Raptors, continued from page 3 stressed, utilizing great amounts of becomes apparent that the birds are energy in protecting their young not going to use a site, such as the Steve: We rely on historical reports, in- Amphitheater, we reopen the BG: Why do the closures cluding journals from the turn of the 20th area to climbing change during the spring? century More recently local conserva- BG: Is there anything else tion groups and biologists have kept Steve: We know that several you want to say to the mem- records of nesting raptors Some of our nest sites are highly preferred bers of the Colorado Moun- information comes from climbers and to the raptors and will be tain Club? hikers who report finding the nests Now used every year But there are we have a group of experienced volun- less preferred sites that are Steve: Most of all, I want to teers and staff who monitor the progress being utilized as more of the young thank the climbers for their cooperation of each nest site Each nest has up to birds return to the areas to nest Also with the closures We realize that a lot five people who spend time each week the reintroduction of the peregrine of climbing opportunities are displaced observing the birds behavior falcon has meant that some prairie fal- in the spring to allow the raptors to cons have been displaced from their successfully nest Last year, with your BG: How does climbing impact nesting? traditional sites We are seeing new cooperation the raptors raised 22 Steve: Climbers can have both direct nest sites such as the 4th Pinnacle and young in this area and indirect impacts on nesting behav- Mt Sanitas being used Unfortunately Editors note: This article first ap- ior Many popular climbing routes go the closures are not a precise science peared in the Compass in the summer through the nests themselves Climb- and to a certain extent we have to see of 2002 ers can damage nests and the chicks what the birds will do before we can Also the raptor parents become determine what areas to close When it
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