Li and His Cronies Dragged Yang Inside, Beating

that’s Beijing 《城市漫步》北京版英文月刊

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2 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com EDITOR’s note Advertising Hotline

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Ever wondered what would happen if you got stuck trying to get home with an unwanted traveling companion and no apparent way to get back in time for the traditional Spring Festival family argument? Of course you have – that is the plot of the classic movie Planes, Trains and Automobiles, which our cover story pays passing homage to. In yer’ Chinese version, of course, uptight marketing executive Neal (Steve GET Martin), is now uptight marketing executive Ni’er, late for work because his boss forced him to work overtime on a pointless spreadsheet. Ni’s attempts to use an illegal taxi app to snag a cab on a chilly Beijing night are met with a wall of indifference from local drivers. YOUR

Ni arrives at the airport too late to catch his flight, and promptly throws an epic tantrum, trashing a nearby bao’an’s hat with his computer in a GAME futile attempt at bullying – police intervention is prevented by the assistance of Del (John Candy), now Dai, a good-natured traveling salesman specializing in DD bra cups. ON Business for Dai is absymal – he can’t figure out why – but he agrees to share his motel room with Ni'er, unfortunately, he fails to disclose he drinks a pint of baijiu before bedtime every night and usually smokes in his sleep. The room goes up in flames and the pair hit the road in Dai’s Hyundai, only to run into the world’s longest traffic jam. Most motorists have been trapped in transit for months. Dai sells his remaining surplus of bra cups for grateful drivers to use as ear muffs and the pair use the cash to purchase two hard seats from a cheerful scalper. They board Get Active. Get Social. Get Organized a train only to discover even the bathrooms are knee-deep in sleep- www.mashupsports.com ing migrants, and the restaurant car ran out of instant noodles before even leaving the station. Enraged, Ni turns on Dai and accuses him of being dull, uncouth, poorly-educated and possessing terrible personal hygiene. Dai points out this is the norm, but it's too late – Ni bails and, despite a blizzard, hits the road on foot, only to be picked up, freezing and near-hysterical, three hours later by Dai.

The savvy salesman has called in a favor from a local coal-mine owner who Dai once saved from an enraged mob, and the pair are off to Changsha! On arrival, Dai drops Ni with his family and heads off to commit suicide but Ni, remembering he dropped five kuai under the car seat, heads over to Dai's and is forced, by Confucian custom, to invite Dai back to his. Dai then drunkenly bangs Ni’s wife while Ni is passed out and the film ends on an awkward note, as the pair figure out suitable financial compensation and agree to do the whole thing again next year.

That’s Beijing

Win! Win! Win! Four passes plus champagne to celebrate Vivid’s opening p.70, brunch for two at The Westin Beijing Financial Street p.71, VIP tickets, swag to see Gilles Peterson p.80 and much, much more!

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 3 THE WRAP

//38 PLANES, TRAINS & AUTOMOBILES A modern economy runs on reliable roads, rails and air routes. China knows that, which is why they have embarked on an unprecedented infrastructure boom. High time we nerded out on it all, don’t cha think? //8 CITY & NATION

//18 BRUISING LEGENDS //12 LEAST INFLUENTIAL Long before Manny Pacquiao, Did you make the cut? The eagerly came the likes of Andre ‘the anticipated first annual round-up Hammer’ Shelaeff. Author Paul of Beijing’s most useless bottom- French takes a look at Shang- feeding nobodies. hai’s golden age of boxing. //20 LIFE & STYLE

24 SUPERSTYLERS With the dust settling on Shanghai and China fashion 28 I HAVE THE POWER! weeks, we round up the Claim a free workout session standout Chinese designers on at the newly renovated this year’s catwalks Powerhouse Gym. //30 ARTS

36 CHINESE OSCARS 34 JAH’ RASTAFARI For fifty years, the Golden As the Wailers prepare for Horse Awards in Taiwan have their first Beijing show, we feted top Chinese language talk with man charged with cinema. We preview this year’s filling Bob Marley’s boots. nominees. //48 EAT & DRINK

50 NEW EATS 54 A WEE DRAM New French bistro O’Steak Great things come in small pack- promises to scour the country- ages; diminutive whiskey bar side in search of the best local Glen Classic shows the big boys beef. But is it any good? . how it should be done.

4 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com THE WRAP

//10 LI TIANYI //14 GETTING LIPPI //33 SPACE CADET // 35 MR. WORLD Behind the scenes at the celebrity An exclusive interview with Legendary pianist Herbie International musical magpie trial of the year, the dramatic Italian World Cup-winning coach Hancock is known for bringing and world music obsessive, journey of a 17-year-old singer Marcello Lippi as he aims to win the funk to jazz-hop. We caught Gilles Peterson makes his from rich kid to rapist con... the Asian Champions’ League. up with him ahead of his China Beijing DJ debut. tour...

// QUOTE OF THE ISSUE // 60 EVENTS

events

Events are editors’ picks of the best activities and are pick of six art exhibitions not comprehensive. To list an event, email bjevents@ events urbanatomy.com. For some details, see Listings. A Living Man Declared Dead and Other Chapters I-XVIII: Taryn Simon Until Jan 5. Ullens Center for Contemporary Art, 798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区尤伦斯当代艺术中心 (UCCA) ( [email protected], 5780 0200) Nov 1-3 EAT&DRINK Poseidon and now has a documentary and book on the subject. //RMB50, RMB40 (members), 7.30pm. “to the public, Li’s attitude matters NIGHTLIFE The Bookworm, Courtyard 4, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 Gig: Indoor Rock Fest 南三里屯路4号院 (www.innbeijing.org Three days of an Ivy League crash 6586 9507) course in Chinese rock and metal. Day 1 (Indie): Namo, Finger Family, Resident A, NDB, New Perfume. Day 2 ART (Heavy Rock/Punk): Subs, Thin Man, Exhibition: ‘Martin Ferro Seen by His Lun Hui, Hang On The Box, Silver Ash. Latin-American Illustrators’ Day 3 (Metal): Sick Pupa, Ego Fall, Opening ceremony of an exhibition Nuclear Fusion G, Nine Treasures, AJK of original illustrations from different and Nower. editions of epic poem Martin Fierro, // RMB100 (RMB80 pre-sale, RMB220 sponsored by the Ministry of Culture of three-day pass) 8pm, MAO Livehouse, the Government of the City of Buenos more than the truth – and the truth (see Livehouse Listings) Aires. //Free, Exhibition Hall of the Cervantes Nov 1-15 Institute in Beijing, A1, Gongti Nanlu Chaoyang District朝阳区工体南路A1 (58 799 666; [email protected]) EAT/DRINK Photographers of Elegance: Eat: Australia Beef NIGHTLIFE the Séeberger Sink your teeth into a Bindaree Angus Tomato Bush Burger, with its rich deep NOV 2 DJ: Gilles Peterson (UK) Brothers 1909- tomato herb flavor and be eligible to (see page XX) 1939 win a fabulous round trip for two from // RMB200 (150 presale) including 1 Nov 4 to Nov 30, Beijing to Sydney, including a guided tasting: Food & Wine experience xvi drink, 10pm, Cicada Ultralounge, N4-33 Alliance francaise tour of the Sanger Australia Cattle Hilton Beijing’s Food & Wine Experience celebrates its“Sweet sixteen” this Tai Koo Li Sanlitun North, 11 Sanlitun (Guangcai center), 18 Farm. year with a full day of local and international wine tastings, accompanied by Lu, Chaoyang District,朝阳区三里屯路11 is something only the judge needs to Gongti Xilu, Guangcai // Crowne Plaza Beijing Wangfujing. 48 delicacies from around the world. Interactive seminars on coffee, chocolate 号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 (6418 9818) Guojigongyu, Chaoyang Wangfujing Dajie, Dongcheng District and wine appreciations feature specialists from the food and beverage industry, District 朝阳区工体王府井大街48号5911 9999 www.crowne- plus there’ll be dozens of stands selling all manner of imported and domestic Nov 8-9 西路18号, 光彩国 plaza.com foodstuffs for you to sample. Giveaways, snacks and plenty of free drinks guar- 际公寓 (6553 2678 antee foodie fun for all, and as the evening wears on, bargains can even be had NIGHTLIFE ext. 209 (en) / 207 (中 by the savvy haggler. 文), culture.beijing@ Nov 1 // RMB190 (standard), RMB280 includes lunch or dinner, 11am-7pm (trade), 1-7pm Gig: Dong Dong Festival (Rock) afchine.org) (public). Hilton Beijing, 1 Dongfang Lu, Beidongsanhuan Lu, ChaoyangDistrict 朝 Music industry conference concludes // Bibliothèque nationale NIGHTLIFE 阳区东三环北路东方路一号(5865 5152) daily with smorgasbords of global de France DJ: Mesak and Claws Costeau rock. On Day One catch futuristic blues-rockers St.LÔ (France) perform (Finland) delete 7pm-late. 167 Dagubei Lu, Heping The Bookworm, Courtyard 4, Nan Beijing’s Skweee spree continues as with experimental composer Francesco district 和平区大沽北路167号(022 5857 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District Tristano and local heartthrobs Nova these avant-garde dance DJs club you 5198) 朝阳区南三里屯路4号院 (www.innbei- to death. Fløøød and Vurado Bukoda Heart, while swiss electro rockers know” jing.org 6586 9507) Bonaparte close it out with local sup- Lasting Balance: “Responsible Drinking” Art support. NIGHTLIFE Exhibition / RMB50, 9pm, DADA, 101Room, port from Carsick Cars and Steely Heart. Nov 15 to Nov 17. Orange Hall, Taikooli Sanlitun, Chaoyang District B building, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Nov 6 Gig: Korpiklaani (Finland) //RMB180, (RMB130 pre-sale, RMB200 朝阳区三里屯太古里橙色大厅 Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街 Traditional Finnish folk meets thrash two-day pass), 9pm. Yugongyishan 206号B栋101室 metal with a penchant for alcohol- NIGHTLIFE 愚公移山 (see listings) fueled party songs. Party: Midnight Masquerade //RMB300, RMB220 pre-sale, RMB580 Gig: FM3 Halloween continues with Singapore’s Buddha Machine inventors and cel- DJ: Dong Dong Festival (Electro) Satire: Qiu VIP, 8pm. Yugongyishan 愚公移山 (see Dada jumps on the Dong Dong Zhijie Solo DJ Aldrin amid glamorously gothic digs listings) ebrated sound artists Christiaan Virant and devilishly delicious drinks. and Zhang Jian make beautiful noise bandwagon with a night of some of yi shenghua, director of criminal law at the Yingke Law Exhibition together. Asia’s best bass music from DJ Dragon // No cover, 10pm, Cicada Ultralounge, Until Feb 23, 2014. DJ: Darius K & Trev D N4-33 Tai Koo Li San litun North, 11 //RMB50, 9pm. Yugongyishan 愚公移山 (Bangkok), Red-I and Soul Flower Galleria Continua Beijing, Resident DJ Dodgy Yamamoto and lo- Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District,朝阳区 (see listings) (Manila), Jase (Saigon), ChaCha and 798 Art District, 2 cal boys Darius K & Trev D take you to 三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 Drunk Monk (Shanghai). On Day Two, Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang the dark side of dance. catch live music sets from glitch techno (6418 9818) // No cover, 10pm, Cicada Ultralounge, Gig: Mixed bag o’ rocks District 朝阳区酒仙桥 Night of Brit-pop and dirty rock with producer Emika (Berlin) and synth psy- 路2号798艺术区(5978 N4-33 Tai Koo Li Sanlitun North, 11 chos Teddy Boy Kill (New Delhi) Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District,朝阳区 The Truth, Li Yan, Pomegranate, Maisha 9505, www.galleriacon- Nov 2 and Bolan Zhuangkuo de Tonghua. // RMB50 10pm, DADA, 101Room, firm, on the downfall of li tianyi P.12 tinua.com) 三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 B building, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, (6418 9818) // RMB80 (RMB60 pre-sale, 8:30pm, EAT/DRINK MAO Livehouse, (see listings) Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街 206号B栋101室 (www.dongdong-event. Drink: Flair Opening Party Nov 4 com/festival/) Gallery Promising to meld “Shanghai’s cosmo- Nov 7 at Hotel politan chic with Tianjin’s distinctive COMMUNITY COMMUNITY Eclat local character,” Flair, at the newly COMMUNITY Beijing opened Ritz Carlton, Tianjin offers an Talk: Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Comedy: Tom Rhodes at the Humor Ongoing, evening’s exploration of its extravagant Dao Talk: Poseidon, China’s Secret Salvage Section (with Des Bishop) Eclat Hotel, 9 collection of Champagne and whiskey. Dr. Sam Crane, author of Life, Liberty, of Britain’s Lost Submarine The Bookworm’s monthly Comedy Dongdaqiao A DJ, sushi, contemporary Southeast and the Pursuit of Dao: Ancient The story of a British submarine Club features MC Des Bishop, Turner Zhu Wei Solo Exhibition Lu, Chaoyang Asian appetizers, and an opulent ci- Chinese Thought in Modern American that sank off the coast of China in Sparks and guests from the Beijing Nov 3 to Nov 10. Today Art Museum, Bldg 4, District朝阳区 gar lounge should ensure a night of Life, talks about how and why ancient 1931, and was salvaged by China comedy scene. Pingguo Community, 32 Baiziwan Lu, Chaoyang 东大桥路9号 Tianjin’s most attractive night owls, strands of Confucianism and Daoism in the 1970s is told by the Beijinger //RMB120 (presale), RMB150 (door), District朝阳区百子湾路32号苹果社区4号楼 www.eclatho- with 2-4-1 Moet can be relevant to America today. Managing Editor Steven Schwankert, RMB100 (students), 8pm. The (5876 0600) www.todayartmuseum.com) tels.com) // RSVP (includes drink and canapés), //RMB50, RMB40 (members), 7.30pm. who spent six years looking for Bookworm, Courtyard 4, Nan Sanlitun

60 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 61

// Marcus Brigstocke // Style Radar Comedy p37 Fashion p20 //48 EAT & DRINK

// Liv Club // Born in the 80s Arts p32 Community p57

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 5 CITY THE BUZZ

DON’T YOU KNOW WHO I AM Quote of the month ‘Vespa mandarinia’ “We sculpted the nose three- a nest of hornets hidden under a pile of dried corn husks, while dimensionally, like carpenters.” out harvesting his crops.

The species does not typically attack unless it feels its nest is threatened, but when it does, oh boy. It is fierce and fast – the hornets can fly at 40km/h and cover 80 kilometres in a day. The Asian giant hornet (vespa They nest underground or in mandarinia), known colloqui- tree stumps, making them very ally as the yak-killer hornet, is difficult to detect. the world’s largest wasp with a wingspan of 7.5cm and a 6mm “I ran and shouted for help, but stinger with which it injects lib- the hornets chased me about eral amounts of venom, potent 200 meters, and stung me for enough to dissolve human tis- more than three minutes,” said sue… to deadly effect. Chen Changlin, who was hospi- talized after being attacked by Vespa has been on a murder hornets while harvesting. spree across Shaanxi over the last few months, killing 42 and The hornets had first swarmed injuring a further 1,675 in an a woman and child working epidemic ascribed to climate nearby, who then ran towards change. Most die of kidney fail- him; both later died from the ure or anaphylactic shock. hornets’ toxins. Chen was lucky Guo Zhihui of Fujian Medical University Union Hospital describes how he spent nine months to survive: when he was admit- constructing an extra nose by removing a man’s rib cartilage and implanting it under the skin of his forehead. The 22-year-old patient, known only as Xiaolian, lost part of his snout in a car “The hornets’ poison was too ted to the hospital, his urine accident in August 2012, and didn’t immediately have reconstruction surgery as he couldn’t strong – his liver and kidneys was said to be the color of soy afford it. An infection later ate away much of the cartilage. Guo now plans to cut the new nose failed and he couldn't urinate,” sauce. “The more you run, the from the forehead while leaving a section of skin still connected, and then rotate and graft it explained a friend of Yu Yihong, more they want to chase you,” into position. Good job, Guo, and you’re giving a whole new meaning to the phrase ‘turning stung to death after stepping on he explained. up your nose…’

Chinese whispers Looking into Beijing’s urban myths: ‘Ghost bus’

The myth: Has a ghostly bus create the illusion of an accident been haunting the streets of in the mountains. In the end, Beijing for two decades? Local the story caused such a panic legend says that on the night of that officials deleted all refer- November 14, 1995, the No. 375 ences to it. bus was passing Yuanmingyuan with the last two passengers, Verdict: The imperial capital for when three men stopped the over 800 years, Beijing has no bus and got on. lack of scare stories, nor grisly and mysterious demises (we’ll One looked dead-drunk, his be sure to bring you more). eyes closed, and was supported “I just saved your life. You didn’t The reality: The story is based Thanks to the combined efforts by the other two, both wearing notice? There was something on an actual murder case, local of the propaganda department long gowns. At this point, so the wrong with those three who man Mr Ding explains. Most of and local gossips, any chance of story goes, a quarrel broke out just got on: the one between the details are actually verified getting to the truth is probably between the original two pas- them was dead, and the two – except the feet part – though lost. If you do buy it, you should sengers, with the older accusing men dragging him weren’t even the bus was actually found probably be careful when out the younger of stealing his wal- human. When the wind blew in the Babaoshan mountain walking at night near moun- let. When they began scuffling, up their gowns, I noticed they district, where many imperial tains, subways, bus routes or the driver dropped them at a didn’t have any feet!” The next tombs can be found. It remains imperial tombs. After all, the kill- police station to resolve the is- day, this bus was reported lost. a mystery how the bus ended ers, human or not, were never sue. Three days later, it was found up there, as the fuel tank was caught... KK abandoned up a mountain in almost empty from a full day’s Getting off the bus, the older Miyun, with two bodies: The travel. A BTV report claimed that // eager to prove or disprove a myth? Contact passenger told the young man: “drunk” man… and the driver. the two killers used the bus to [email protected] to let us know

6 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com Edited by RFH, Stephen george & karoline KAN [email protected]

THIS MONTH IN HISTORY ACCIDENTAL CHINESE HIPSTERS One day in… November The real thing!

November 25, 1924 and the The logic ran that, since they eunuch system is finally banned were incapable of having chil- in China, thus ending an era dren, they would not be tempt- that had endured for over 3,000 ed to seize power and start a years and through 25 dynasties. dynasty – although certain eunuchs gained immense power, Records of eunuchs in China including famous explorer date back to the Shang Dynasty Zheng He (1371–1433 AD). (1600–1046 BC), when the Shang kings castrated prison- Castration included removal of ers of war. In the Qin Dynasty the penis as well as the testicles, (221-206 BC), eunuch slaves all sliced off in one with a knife. performed forced labor on state Self-castration was a common projects, including the manufac- practice among the ambitious, turing of the Terracotta Army. although it was not always performed completely, which led to In ancient times, castration was its being made illegal. not only a traditional punishment (it was one of the Five Spare a thought for poor Sun Punishments, the other four Yaoting, the last surviving impe- being tattooing the face, cutting rial eunuch of Chinese history off the nose, cutting off the feet when he died in 1996. and death), but also a means of If it turned out she was talking gaining employment in the im- A eunuch, yesterday He was castrated aged eight by about the sugary black fizzy wa- perial service. his father with a single swoop of ter, would it make it any better? about 70,000 eunuchs employed a razor. The year was 1911, mere By the end of the Ming Dynasty by the emperor, with some serv- months before the last emperor, //For more hip, hip, hip visit accidentalchinesehipsters.tumblr.com (1368–1644 AD), there were ing inside the Imperial palace. Puyi, was deposed. NK

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10月 p7 lea广告.indd 7 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com13-10-24 下午8:487 Printed in partnership with BeijingCream.com TALES OF THE CITY crackdown! Ayi rage Send ’em home Unleash the hounds

Those damn migrants, coming over here, acting like they own the place, stealing our jobs… Oh, wait. Yep, Tsinghua university professor Wen Guowei has had it with Beijing’s newest arrivals. “People who want to become Beijingers should sit an exam!” fumed Wen during a recent interview with the Beijing Those groups of dancing enthusiasts began congregat- into the crowd of dancers and Evening News. “There should be disco aunties may look harm- ing in the public space below firing two shots into the air a barrier, to stop this unlimited less enough, but have pity on his bedroom window. After with an antique shotgun. The flood of low quality people,” Changping resident Mr Shi, several failed attempts at ne- result? Shi was arrested for the suggested the architecture pro- who was forced to endure their gotiating with the group, the illegal possession of a weapon, fessor. “People from outside the earsplitting nightly performanc- disgruntled Shi took matters while the invulnerable aunties city should take an examination, es from 7pm to midnight, after into his own hands, unleashing (who escaped serious harm) which would test their education a group of local keep-fit three huge Tibetan mastiffs returned the following evening. level, knowledge of local laws as well as their overall skills and capability. If they fail, they should Buddhism censorship be declared illegal!” As if the visa regulations weren’t Byzantine Forbidden school Bathhouse bandits enough already... blackface A government proposal to ban Zunyou, director of the National HIV patients from using public Center for AIDS and Sexually bathhouses has been widely Transmitted Disease Control and Racist runners? condemned as unworkable, with Prevention, explained, “You can't critics pointing out that you tell by someone’s appearance if can’t actually catch AIDS from they are HIV-positive or not. So A storm erupted online in the sharing bath water. The move how can bathhouses possibly wake of last month’s Beijing orders public bathhouses to check whether customers have Marathon, after pictures of display signs prohibiting “peo- the virus?" Perhaps government Adidas’ team of ‘stealth runners’ Plans to build a “Forbidden City ple with sexually transmitted efforts would be better focused – men and women College” in the campus of a for- diseases, AIDS and infectious on safer-sex education and painted head-to-toe mer vocational school have been skin diseases.” However, as Wu tolerance instead... in black cladding announced by chief curator Shan and who appear at Jixiang. The proposal includes running events space for 30 public classrooms in- across China – tended to provide free classes on were accused of the protection and appraisal of racism by sec- cultural relics, as well as addition- tions of the expat al exhibition space. It’s unclear press. In a country whether the measures will help with no history reduce tourist numbers in the of black-face, we’ll Forbidden City, which last month leave it up to you exceeded 175,000 in one day, far decide whether you beyond the estimated safe visitor think the admittedly limit of 30,000. odd promotion war- rants the ‘racist’ label.

8 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com CITY Special Feature: Rule of Law A Few Bad Men L i TiANYI, gang rape and a media circus By Valentina Luo

A media scrum surrounded nearly all aspects of the baby-faced Li Tianyi (inset, left) and his legal team

both parties agree. hey raped me. Him and his four ‘Li and his cronies dragged Yang Three and a half hours later, friends.” a drunken Ms. Yang left with “T inside, beating, molesting and the group, but later says she In a cold changed her mind and tried to and grimly lit office of the taking turns to rape the 18-year- go home. CCTV footage shows Li Dongsheng district police sta- violently assaulting her in a ho- tion, the woman’s voice was old student’ tel elevator. Dawn’s light would shaking; the male officers -ex have been breaking through the changed glances. “Who is he?” shabby curtains of the cheap room that Li and his cronies then “He’s called Li Tianyi,” the wom- per in China; at the elite Hurun was with three teenage friends dragged her inside, beating, an replied, according to police Entrepreneur Summit, held in – plus one adult – in the private molesting and taking turns to records published by the 21st October, people were still talking room of Wudaokou’s Global rape the 18-year-old student. Century Business Herald. “He’s the about it. When the verdict was is- Club, when waitress Yang Jia was son of Li Shuangjiang.” sued on September 26, just four sent as a “drinking, singing and Facing 10 years’ jail, Li “showed days after high-profile princeling entertaining” companion by a no remorse,” according to the At 75, pot-bellied general Li Bo Xilai was sentenced to life on waiter named Zhang Guangyao; state-run news agency Xinhua, Shuangjiang is, perhaps, the corruption charges, the former Zhang would later accompany which described him as “the initi- most venerable of the People’s Chongqing chief’s name was Ms. Yang to file the criminal ator of the joint crime.” Even less Liberation Army (PLA) enter- replaced by Li as the most-talked report. regretful was Li’s mother, Meng tainers and famed across the about topic on microblogging Ge, whose misguided attempts mainland for belting out rousing site Weibo. Ms. Yang would have been at public relations – calling her songs at patriotic galas. expected to act as a kind of paid son “honest, loyal and innocent” According to the Haidian District female companion, or sanpeinü, while deriding the victim as a The case, filed on February 19, Court’s verdict, Li, the only son of to the group – a duty that nei- prostitute – gave new meaning would go on to hit the front celebrity couple Li Shuangjiang ther included sexual services nor to the term ‘PR offensive.’ page of almost every newspa- and the glamorous Meng Ge, excluded the possibility – should

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 9 CITY Special Feature: Rule of Law

In fact, the case would dramatically highlight not just the role of women in Chinese society but also public resentment at the life- styles of the rich and famous – as well as their sometimes regret- table parenting styles.

For Li’s rise to the role of crown princeling of Chinese douchebags has a rich and storied history, only some of which has been in the public domain until now.

Li seems doomed almost from birth, if an anecdote published on the blog of Mark Rowswell – the Canadian comedian better known as Dashan – is to be credited. According to Rowswell, he was introduced to Li Sr. around 1996 by his performing partner, Mr. Ding, who showed him a picture of Li, then in his late 50s, “planting a mock kiss on [baby Li]’s penis.” Ding asked Rowswell’s opinion. “I didn’t think that it was abusive, I explained, just wrong,” Rowswell writes. “It looked like phallic worship… I didn’t think it was right for someone to be worshiping the phallus of their newborn son… [Mr. Ding and his wife] laughed. 17 years later, it just seems sad.”

The older Li grew, the more his transgressions would be ex- cused. An enraged Meng once turned up at her property manager’s office, spoiling for a fight, after hearing that a teenage Li had been injured by broken glass. She was shown footage of Li himself, armed with a BB gun, shattering the compound’s outdoor lamps.

By 2009, Li, now 14, had been expelled from elite Beijing high school Renda Fuzhong, after just a year; rumor had it he’d badly beaten a teacher. Next in line was Shattuck St. Mary’s, described as an “elite Minnesota prep school” by the Minnesota Post, with annual school fees of USD35,000 according to Chinese media. Li didn’t last long here, either; Xinhua reported he was expelled after two years for brawling and abusing his father’s recalled Li once replaced a his unlicensed BMW. “Don’t you blaming his own parenting, stature in China. classmate’s protein powder with dare call the police!” he is said at home, little seems to have washing powder. “Li did it purely to have roared at bystanders; the changed: upon release, he re- Chinese media quoted Shattuck for fun, the girl he tried to trick incident earned Li a year in a ju- ceived a Nissan GTR sports car St. Mary’s alumni relations and told me,” Malin told the Caixun veniles’ correctional facility and a as compensation. Within a year, outreach coordinator, Father news blog. “She thought he had new name, Guanfeng. The South that had been upgraded to a Henry Doyle, as saying Li was mental problems and needed China Morning Post reported his white Mercedes, the same car “isolated and unable to control help.” parents changed his name after- that would be used to bundle his behavior,” although Doyle wards to avoid further publicity. Yang into a hotel room (expen- later denied speaking to any Help never arrived. In 2011, Li sive ‘bratmobiles’ are standard reporters. came to Chinese public atten- Although Li Sr. would make an for princelings, most famously tion after assaulting a Beijing histrionic appearance on state Bo’s infamous son Bo Guagua, Fellow Chinese student ‘Malin’ couple who accidentally blocked TV, kowtowing, weeping and who favored a Porsche, and sto-

10 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com dently or collectively assaulted them... Chen raped two women (including one attempted rape), gang-raped another two and as- sisted Hu [in an attempted rape]. Hu gang-raped one woman, as- sisted Chen to rape one, and had illicit sexual relations with 13 and molested 10.”

The Shanxi Science and Technology News, a local government mouthpiece which also covered the case, first reported that the suspects’ family connections were so powerful that the First Secretary of Shanghai at the time, Chen Guodong, couldn’t make up his mind what to do and presented the case to former central Party Secretary Hu Yaobang.

‘Li’s rise to the “Most heinous crimes,” Hu re- portedly replied. “The people’s role of crown anger won’t be answered unless they’re executed.” But the final princeling of verdict was not delivered until Supreme Leader Deng Xiaoping douchebags got involved. As the Selected Works of Deng (People’s has a rich Publishing House, 1993) records, Deng made his judgement at a and storied Politburo Standing Committee meeting on Jan 17, a month be- history’ fore the People’s Daily article, re- marking that, “Crimes committed by the children of high-ranking officials and celebrities need to be treated urgently, for their bigger social impact and higher hazard.

“Solving these typical cases will make a greater difference and show our determination toward the construction of legal government and spiritual culture.” The two were executed weeks after. The prosecution against Li, meanwhile, took eight months to arrive in court, with the Li family burning through at least four lawyers; any of them could have done a better job, Li Zaike, the policeman-turned-lawyer to one of Li’s co-defendants, told That’s: “The key to repudiate a rape, from my experience, is to prove that [the sex] was not conducted unwillingly by the female throughout, which can be really ries of fatal flame-outs involving “It’s quite lenient,” said user The gang included Hu Xiaoyang, difficult – but Li actually had drunk Ferrari-driving fuerdai are FengMoNyuZhongMi in a typical foster child of then-Shanghai some leverage here.” regular sources of Weibo ire). comment. “We should exactly Party Committee’s Second punish those unruly guaner’dai Secretary, and Chen Xiaomeng, Li Zaike was referring to details Li’s eventual punishment for [second-generation bureaucrats] son of its Vice Propaganda Chief. provided by Ms. Yang that later leading a gang rape – 10 years in like [Li] this way.” Yet the People’s Daily, which ran proved untrue, including her prison – is among the heaviest the story on its front page in claim that she did not work part- handed down for such crimes. This has not always been the February that year, threw the time at the Global Club as a ‘beer A Yunnan official who raped a case. In 1986, six Shanghai gang to the wolves, saying they girl.’ According to Waiter Zhang, four year old in October was youths were accused of a three- “promised those women to help Ms. Yang didn’t object when sentenced to a mere five years. year rampage from 1981 to 1984 fix them with jobs positions and Zhang told her that Li offered Unsurprisingly, though, there which left more than ten women invited them to dance at their RMB1,000 for her company. The was little sympathy on Weibo. raped and sexually assaulted. houses, where they indepen- nightclub’s security cameras also

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 11 CITY Special Feature: Rule of Law captured Ms. Yang clinging to Li ceptible to media reports,” claims as he tried to bundle her into his reputed human-rights lawyer friend’s car, as well as Li – ever ‘To the public, Li’s attitude matters Yuan Yulai. In China, though, the gallant – brushing her hand it can go either way: a Hubei away. more than the truth – and truth is woman who stabbed her alleged rapist, a government official, to The five other men clearly didn’t something only the judge needs to death in a KTV bar famously had see the night’s events as any- her death sentence commuted thing other than routine, either. know’ in 2009. But another case, in “That’s why they didn't take it which a kebab vendor named Xia at all seriously afterwards,” one Junfeng stabbed two chengguan lawyer told Life Weekly, a Beijing- to death who he claims attacked based magazine. “After [Ms. “The public doesn’t have a right him, saw Xia’s death sentence Yang] threatened to tell the po- to know all the gritty details,” upheld this September. lice, they colluded in their state- says Yi, recently named one of ments beforehand and Li justified China's 10 Best litigators by Asian “Talking about judicial inde- the acts as a sexual transaction Legal Business magazine for pendence in China is pointless,” which they paid for.” his work protecting vulnerable adds Yuan. “Important cases will groups such as “juvenile crimi- involve a judging committee, Indeed, there remains the nag- nals and female victims.” Yi says usually made up of high-ranking ging question of the RMB2,000 Meng’s defence did little good leaders in court, to make the in cash, allegedly accepted by the for her son. “Li’s case has such a verdict.” victim after the rapes took place; significant social impact that [his the money isn’t mentioned in parents] should have treated the Whatever decision is made, the Ms. Yang’s original testimony, Tsinghua law professor Yi Yanyou, whose court and the public separately. state media will be instructed to though she later stated it was unguarded remarks on rape caused offence As all the other defendants testi- ‘guide public opinion’ towards slipped into her purse unawares. fied against Li, whoever tries to it. Wang Fu, a prominent lawyer, But whether this sum had been apologized, calling his remarks plead innocent for him in court is said on Weibo that he had been agreed upon beforehand, and in “improper.” unrealistic.” “assigned” by his own law firm exchange for what, is unclear. to write articles criticizing Li and But Yi was far from the only per- Li’s background also played a his legal team, on the orders of a It was this alleged transaction son whose judgment seems to tricky role in media coverage of “regulating department.” When that may have prompted Meng have been affected by the case. the case too, Yi explains. “His contacted, Wang declined to go Ge, Li’s mother, to have gone “Meng Ge is a celebrity, so it’s no father… a political and entertain- into any more details but said public shortly after her son was surprise that many lawyers tried ment figure, is doubly scruti- that he had refused to comply. charged, firstly by issuing veiled to boost their profile by using nized. This may not be fair, but “I can’t do something that is threats – allegedly claiming “the her case,” Yi Shenghua, a director the Lis’ should have taken this against my conscience,” he wrote military is closely watching the of criminal law at the Yingke Law into consideration and made an in an e-mail. investigation” and that “a higher Firm in Beijing who has defended apology while they could,” he leader will speak up when need- previous gang-rape cases, told argues. “To the Chinese public, But was all of this necessary – or, ed” – and then making a laugh- us. “But for Mrs. Meng, this is a their attitude matters more to put it in the words of Pi Yijun, ing stock of herself with remarks far more complicated situation than the truth – and the truth is “Are the Lis really so powerful such as “[the rape] isn’t Li Tianyi’s than [she was used to], which something only the judge needs anyway?” Pi, a professor of responsibility, but society’s.” made her incapable of realizing to know.” juvenile crime at the University who was trying to help her and of Politics and Law of China, Partly thanks to Meng, the case who was just using her.” “There has been too much public believes that Li’s original road- was dogged with rumors, some sentiment involved in this case, rage sentence in 2011 was overly of which cast doubt on the vic- Despite Meng’s suspicions, there namely the hatred of the rich heavy, due to public pressure. tim’s reliability. Allegations on were still plenty of people who and powerful,” Liu Shanying, “Just how many brawls do we Weibo that the victim’s parents were not aware of her or her a political researcher from the see on the street everyday?” he had been offered a Beijing husband’s fame. Zhang, the Chinese Academy of Social points out. hukou, house and job if the case waiter who first introduced Li to Sciences, told AP. “The ruling has was dropped were reported by Ms. Yang, had to ask one of Li’s been directly or indirectly influ- Pi says he has seen “too many” China Radio International, and friends who “that swaggering enced by that.” young men similar to Li, mak- insinuations by Meng and Li’s kid” was; on being told that his ing the same mistakes as him lawyers that the victim, “a non- father was Li Shuangjiang, Zhang The case amplified current flaws and ending up in one of China’s virgin working as a beer girl,” was still none the wiser, accord- in China’s legal system, in par- brutal boot camps for young of- had made a “mistake,” caused ing to police records. ticular the matter of forensic fenders. Here, he says these juve- uproar online. evidence against Li (there was niles risk “cross-contamination,” In its ruling, however, the court none) and judicial independ- where “good kids” mix with the Tsinghua University law profes- sought to dispel many of these ence. Yi says that public opinion bad and pick up their criminal sor Yi Yanyou caused further unsavory theories by effec- “is certainly one of the factors habits. anger by wading into the de- tively saying that it didn’t matter that the court considers during bate with a bizarre tweet which whether or not Ms. Yang was a sentencing, although social com- As 18-year-old Li enters his adult claimed that “raping a chaste sex worker in the first place. Her mentary doesn’t have a direct im- life with a decade-long stretch woman is more harmful than profession was a matter of “in- pact on the government. Rather, inside, Pi has only a bleak prog- raping a bar girl, a dancing girl, a dividual privacy,” which “has no when [dissent] gets louder and nosis. “The earlier one is sent to sanpeinü or a prostitute.” Asked influence on the determination louder, it eventually affects the jail, the more likely he will com- to explain his remarks, Yi refused of the facts of the case.” government’s image and makes mit crimes again later in life,” to apologize, telling the Wall them feel threatened; then it will Pi says. “So, no, I don’t think Li Street Journal that “Tsinghua Law “Even if she was, the sex still has act.” Tianyi will be a much better man School suggested he delete the to be conducted according to her when he comes out.” controversial post, but [Yi] re- will, or it’s rape,” Hu Juan, a law- “The [media] mostly affects fused.” Within a day, though the yer for one of Li’s co-defendants, American-style jury systems, // Follow @valentinaluo on twitter tweet had been scrubbed, and Yi explained to That’s. whose members are most sus-

12 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com CITY word on the street Nt ame Tha Tune How a musical ear cures Chinese tone-deafness BY Eveline Chao

he part of the brain respon- Vietnamese and Thai – are obvi- identical or differed by one out- sible for producing and ‘Research ous ones to look at. Bidelman is of-tune note. They had to identify T understanding speech is director of the Auditory Cognitive whether the melodies were the called Broca’s Area. As it happens, Neuroscience Lab at the University same or different. it is also responsible for process- suggests of Memphis in Tennessee, where ing music, arguably a language they’ve run experiments involving Bidelman found that with the sim- unto itself, and research suggests musical training three groups of people: English pler tests, the Cantonese speakers that musical training also brings speakers with at least 10 years of and the musicians performed language-related benefits – like makes it easier classical-music training; English equally well; the non-musician learning second languages faster. speakers with little to no musical English speakers less so. With to learn Chinese training; and native Cantonese the more complex tasks, like “That’s not to say that if you play speakers with the same. the melody one, the musicians the guitar, you can immediately faster’ did best, then the Cantonese pick up Mandarin,” says research- In one, the groups heard a series speakers, then the non-musician er Gavin Bidelman on ‘Lexicon of pitches and had to identify English speakers; the advantage Valley,’ a Slate.com podcast about when the pitches were the same was weaker, but still there. language. “But people with ex- musician brains respond more and when one was higher. The dif- tensive musical training do tend “robustly” and preciselyto speech ference between the level pitches Good news indeed for the Tiger to pick up some of the sound ele- and language. “Musical training and the higher one grew smaller Moms of the world: it seems that ments and phonological elements tunes the brain. Pun intended.” and smaller, testing how finely tonal languages do, in fact, help of a language faster.” they could hear pitch variations. with musical processing. But what about the opposite Another verbal skill improved by – can some languages confer Some exercises involved more // eveline Chao is a freelance writer and the music training is the ability to musical benefits? Those that complicated strings of melodies. author of niuBi! – the real Chinese you were never taught in School, available on Amazon distinguish speech in loud envi- involve pitched, music-like tones In one of these, subjects heard and in local english-language bookstores. ronments. According to Bidelman, – such as Mandarin, Cantonese, two melodies that were either

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 13 CITYnation S PorT SHOOTING FROM THE LIPpi WORLD CUP-WINNING COACH SEEKS ASIAN CROWN By MATT HORN

arcello Lippi’s place in Lippi celebrates in style, after taking football history has home the biggest prize in the game, 2006 From South M long been assured. The World Cup winning coach America with love of Italy in 2006 and Champions’ Conca, Elkeson and Muriqui League winner with Juventus scored 41 of Evergrande’s 69 a decade earlier, this month goals in the 27 league games he will seek to add the Asian so far this season. They have Champions’ League to his im- scored an incredible 25 goals pressive list of titles, cementing between them en route to the his place in Chinese football his- Champions’ League final, with tory. In an exclusive interview, Elkeson only available from the the 65-year-old Italian talks can- quarter final stage. didly about his move to China, the state of football here, the AFC Champions’ League Final, Road to the final this season’s World Cup, China’s hopes of one day hosting the A perfect six wins out of six tournament and why dinner is in the knockout stages has on Sven Goran Eriksson. despatched Central Coast Mariners, Lekhwiya and It is no secret that these have Kashiwa Reysol with an incred- been dark days for football in ible aggregate of 19-3. China. Corruption at home has gone hand in hand with repeated failure at international level. But Lippi’s trophy haul there is a light shining at the end of a very dark tunnel, and it is be- 2006 World Cup with Italy; ing held by Marcello Lippi. Since 5 Serie A, 1 Coppa Italia, arriving as coach of Guangzhou 4 SupercoppaItaliana, 1 Evergrande in May 2012 success UEFA Champions League, has followed success; a Chinese 1 European Super Cup, 1 Super League and Chinese FA Intercontinental Cup (all Cup double last season, retain- Juventus); 2 Chinese Super ing the championship at a canter League, 1 Chinese FA Cup… this year, and on November 9 and counting (Guangzhou welcoming FC Seoul to the Tianhe Evergrande) Stadium for the second leg of the Asian Champions League final. ‘The fact you have the possibility No Chinese team has ever with the support of everyone is a reached the final of the ACL since big advantage.” it was revamped in 2001, let to play extra time or penalties at alone won it. And only once has That support is something that China been home to the conti- home with the support of 50,000 has impressed him over the past nental champions: Liaoning, 23 18 months. years ago. fans is a big advantage’ “It has been incredible. They The final was reached in style give us a lot of support with the too, with an 8-1 aggregate win atmosphere they create with the semi-final thrashing of Japanese but he has played in Brazil and has helped the success of the red shirts. We have an average side Kashiwa Reysol, a result in- he also understands the mental- team. The few foreigners bring of 50,000 fans for every match. spired by the three amigos from ity and way of playing football those Chinese players up. They Their support is also due to the South America: Argentine Dario there.” are the ideal conclusion for what winning streak but it has helped Conca and Brazilians Elkeson and the Chinese players can bring to us throughout the champion- Muriqui. They have been unstop- But with limitations on the num- the team.” ship.” pable in the knockout stages, ber of foreign players, Lippi is and Lippi is looking for them to adamant that the key to success While he thinks it will be a “well Given his success with shine again. is the Chinese spine of the side; fought final,” Lippi is delighted Evergrande it is little wonder stars like Zheng Zhi and Gao Lin. that the second leg will be in the that Lippi is repeatedly touted to “They complement each other Tianhe Stadium. take over the struggling national very well on the pitch,” he says. “The important thing is the side. While flattered by the inter- “Elkeson and Muriqui have a very backbone. The backbone of the “I am extremely happy. The first est, he insists he will not leave good connection where they find team in any country is the play- matchA familiar isn’t decisive site: demolition and the fact and commerce,Guangzhou cheek before by jowlthe end of each other easily. The same with ers of that nation. We have a lot you have the possibility to play his contract a year from now, Conca. He is from Argentina, of good Chinese players, which extra time or penalties at home although he is not ruling out dis-

14 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com cussions in the future. Guangzhou Evergrande seal their place Both on and off the pitch, Lippi is in Asian Champions League final, after enjoying his Guangzhou experi- a remarkable 8-1 aggregate win over “After November 14, if there is top Japanese side Kashiwa Reysol FC ence. “The city is great and being a possibility to have discussions here with my technical staff has about the national team then been good. I have got used to we will see. But right now the the food and the lifestyle and it only thing I am focused on is the has been a very positive experi- Champions League.” ence.”

The success Lippi and his sizeable He is as excited about winning Italian entourage are bringing the ACL with Evergrande as to Guangzhou, and the fact he he was about winning UEFA’s is being talked of as a future equivalent with Juventus, though national coach, more than justi- confesses that the one thing that fies his decision to leave Italian stands alone in terms of football- football for the first time after a ing achievements is to win the lifetime in the sport. He turned World Cup for your own nation. down offers from Germany, France and Spain because he Having lifted the World Cup in wanted to do “something com- Germany seven years ago, Lippi pletely different.” And despite is already looking forward to interest from the moneybags in next summer’s tournament in the Middle East, he chose China. Brazil. While admitting Brazil ‘For the Guangzhou derby, Sven has a clear advantage as hosts, “I didn’t want to be the same he argues: “It is important that type of coach in Europe,” he teams are physically and psycho- explains. “I had a couple of of- Goran Eriksson and I had a bet logically ready. Who would have fers from Qatar and Saudi Arabia expected that Italy would win and went there to meet people that the loser would pay for our it in 2006? But we had a full list but I decided to come to China physically and psychologically because it would be a complete next dinner. We won so I was prepared, believing we could experience for me. happy’ win.” “After ten years at Juventus, that Can Italy win it again? “Of was the club I was associated course,” he replies without hesi- with. Having won the World tation. Cup, I took a rest for a couple of America, where football is eve- Having mentioned the impor- years, but I didn’t feel that was rywhere,” says Lippi. “Here you tance of the Chinese backbone Disillusioned football fans here the end. I had to keep working, don’t see kids playing football. for his team, Lippi adds: “An believe the only way China could so I decided to come to China. On TV you see a lot of badmin- example - Drogba, Anelka qualify for the World Cup is by Obviously the economic side of ton, sports like that they focus and Tigana went to Shanghai hosting it, and Lippi thinks that coming here is a positive one, on. I see that lack of culture in Shenhua, Drogba, having should and will happen. but it is not the only reason I the players in the champion- just helped Chelsea win the came here.” ship. They lack imagination and Champions League – Shanghai “I truly believe so. It is such a technique, the aggressiveness to finished 11th. Dalian bought huge country I find it hard to be- He has certainly not been disap- put pressure on players. But with Utaka and Keita and finished lieve they won’t. The investment pointed by his decision to dare the help of international coaches 12th. So what I mean is you don’t at various clubs shows they have to be different, and while he has coming here that will improve.” only play with your foreign play- the will and the effort needed to certainly made a difference he ers. You don’t have a lot of suc- host such a good event.” knows his role is about much The need to instil a football cul- cess with those foreign players.” more than the first team. ture in China’s youngsters is the Speaking on the day that tickets reason Lippi takes seriously his But Lippi does feel foreign priced at RMB1,500-2,000 for “I was asked by President Liu role with the soccer school that coaches are key to China’s foot- the second leg of the final sold [Yongzhou] to take a managerial Evergrande opened last year in ball future, with Real Madrid out in a matter of minutes, is he role in order to be able to organ- partnership with the Real Madrid providing 15 Spanish coaches for aware that getting hold of the ise the club at an international Foundation. He believes the facil- the Evergrande Soccer School, hottest ticket in town is like find- level. I told them it will be a long ity is the best in the world, with coaching both the kids and the ing hens’ teeth? road and a difficult one, but we the possibility to have an incred- Chinese coaches are on target to reach the goal. ible three to four thousand kids “That is not a problem for me, as I obviously did not think that in there. Lippi is not the only famous I get into the stadium whatever,” such a short time we would have foreign manager in Guangzhou he smiles. such success.” “To develop football, these are either, with former England boss the type of structures China Sven Goran Eriksson across the Evergrande fans are very happy A key part of smooth progress needs,” he stresses. city at Guangzhou R&F. that he does, and hope he will along that road is addressing continue to do so for a long time the issue that surprised him “I have given tips in not spending “We have met a couple of times to come. most when he arrived in China. all their money on great foreign for dinner and for the derby we He confesses he knew very little players, but to create the grass- had a bet that the loser would // marcello lippi’s Guangzhou evergrande take about the Chinese Super League roots of football. It is better to pay for the next meal. We won on FC Seoul in the deciding second leg of the AFC Champions league Final on november 9 before coming here, but quickly spend a little more on qualified so I was happy,” he smiles. at the tianhe Stadium, Guangzhou. evergrande identified a problem. coaches that will bring their ex- also face Beijing Guoan in the Chinese FA Cup perience to these children than “But it is always nice to speak to semi-ﬁnal, with the ﬁrst leg taking place on “What I realised most was the much more on foreign players Eriksson, a coach at an interna- november 23 at the workers Stadium, Beijing lack of football culture here, who are a short fix.” tional level, a very good coach.” and the second leg on november 27 at the compared to Europe and South tianhe Stadium, Guangzhou.

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 15 CITY local personalities The 10 Least-Interesting People in Beijing By RFH, Anthony Tao, Stephen George and Will Philipps Kong Ergou / Bicycle Thief, 36

If you’ve ever had a bike stolen in Beijing, chances are it was swiped by Kong. “I’ve been stealing people’s sole mode of transportation since I was 16,” Kong admits with a touch of pride. “I had a choice: Do something meaningful with my life or become a low-level parasite… I think I made the right decision.” Not that Kong’s lifestyle choice has been easy: he’s been insulted and beaten at regular intervals but – sadly – never skull-f*cked. “The job’s not as fun as it used to be,” Li shrugs. “There’s no longer the same little kick I used to get from ruining someone’s day in order to afford myself a pathetic sum of monetary reward.” And he fears for the future of his job. “The whole scene’s changing: road bikes, mountain bikes, five speeds… the other day, I stole some foreign twat’s ride and it didn’t even have any brakes. What can you do? I had to sell it to some scruffy Frenchman for forty kuai.” Cui Hua / Balloon Seller, 56

Cui can still remember when she first came up with the idea of selling drunk people balloons for a living. “I was on my own, high as a Marxist, when I realized I didn’t have any balloons. That’s when I realized – what do drunk people need? Balloons!” Cui visited a balloon shop that very day and invested her son’s college fund in 1,000 differently colored balloons. “And I still have about half left, three years later!” laughs Cui, who has no idea what her real name is. Every night, she joins her husband – a foul-tempered monkey trainer – and pounds the streets of Sanlitun, accosting strangers to buy her wares. “I’ve thought of selling other stuff,” she smiles. “Cigarettes, lighters, rape alarms… but, at the end of the day, it’s always been about the balloons. This business of ours – it’s recession proof. Night or day, drunk or sober, people will always want balloons. And roses.” Earl Cooter / English Teacher, 28

Most foreigners who move to China usually get a lucky break after a few months that allows them to pursue their Chinese Dream. Not so Earl Cooter. The former student came to Beijing in 2005 to teach English and see what would come up – amazingly, eight years later, he’s still teaching English. “You’d think I’d be bitter, but I’m not. I’m really not,” Earl says bitterly. Despite being no less drunk or untalented than his fellow faculty members, Cooter is the only foreigner among them to have not caught even a single lucky break. Through clenched teeth, Earl lists former peers – an Alabaman half-wit, a Nigerian goat-snatcher – who once worked alongside him at the No. 4 Beijing Agricultural Kindergarten, before moving on to bigger and better things. “Bobby Lee is now married to the fourth-richest woman in China, and Makepeace has a thriving goat’s head restaurant in Wudaoying,” he says, shaking is head in disbelief. “Know what I have? Goddamn class on a Saturday morning.” Gus Diamond / Doomed Entrepreneur, 34

Hearing Gus’s latest idea – an Ethiopian concept restaurant called Hobo’s, with homeless people as interns – friends usually elect to nod and smile. When they get lost three months later, looking for the Hobo’s opening party in a deserted Jinwai shopping mall, everyone knows it’s only a matter of time before the latest disaster befalls his train-wreck of a business plan. “I was born to be a businessman,” claims Gus, as he collects another rent check from his long-suffering father. “I just don’t know what business!” Judging from previous experience, though, one can rule out catering, education, the media, accountancy, consultancy, microbrewing and pretty much everything else. Yet when it comes to astonishing fellow expats with a combination of staggering incompetency and continued solvency, Gus is in a league of his own. Li Jinying / Travel Agent, 37

Li never says what’s on his mind; in other words, he’s the perfect salesman. Just tell him what you want and he’ll arrange a getaway package to Jiuzhaigou at the peak of National Holiday, with the prospect of real fights and taking photos through the viewfinders of other photographers. Don’t want to visit the Miao Historic Minority Village in Guizhou, by the Baishui River, which has flowed through its geography for many generations? Tough – you’re going! “Customers say the company’s arrangements are reasonable and feedback is positive,” argues Li. “The company is very carefully plan your stay and think of the pleasure and enjoyment as No. 1. Henan welcome your cooperate in the future!”

16 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com Realizing we had completely run out of ideas last month, we decided to run an article about some people we know in Beijing. Our criteria was simple: did we have their phone numbers? Once we had the list, we stuck it in a drawer and forgot all about it. But then one of our freelancers fled the country on an an alleged rumor-mongering charge and we needed a replacement article – fast! Hey presto, we present you with the 10 people in Beijing you should cross the road to avoid, and The 10 Least-Interesting People in Beijing possibly call the police... Tang Geiqian / Beggar, 53

Spare a thought for Tang Yishan. While most of us could manage one hour – one and a half, tops – on the Beijing subway, it’s where Tang spends upwards of 19 hours a day, persuading commuters to give their loose change to feed himself, his wife and 37-year-old son. “I lost my sense of smell in a freak accident at a baijiu bottling factory two years ago, and haven’t been willing to work since – then I frittered away my entire compensation on iPhone covers,” Tang confesses. But since then it’s been all uphill. “I might not be able to inhale ergotou again, but on a good day I can make upwards of RMB300.” Tang is saving for an apartment in Tongzhou and hopes to one day send his son to an international school. Zhao Shamate / Hairdresser, 23

Most young boys dream of one day growing up to become an NBA player, astronaut or scientist. But Zhao Shamate’s lifelong dream has only ever been to work people’s hair into irritating quiffs and pointlessly coif- fured fringes – all while listening to K-pop with a vaguely disinterested expression. “I had to put in years of hard ponce to get where I am now,” Zhao, whose English name is Smart, tells us, twirling a comb through his boney fingers. “If I put a foot wrong my boss used to punish me by dying my hair black. I was only allowed to eat offcuts, but I used to secretly collect the hairs at lunchtime and create wigs for my mother, who I never met. She ran away at birth.” Now a fully-fledged junior hairdresser, Zhao says it’s about more than just cutting people’s follicles: “I just feel this deep, special kinship with my fellow hairdressers,” he says wistfully. “People stare at us the whole time. I suppose they must think we look so cool.” Xiao Dong / Security Guard, 17

As the illegitimate second child of a Shanxi glass-blower, Xiao Dong spent his formative years hiding from local family-planning officials. Shunted between elderly relatives and kindly aunties, Xiao was never formally registered. “It’s hard getting work when you don’t exist, at least not officially,” points out the plucky 17-year old. Luckily, Xiao found employment as an itinerant bao’an (security guard). “I’ve traveled the world. Shanxi, Hubei, you name it,” brags Xiao, who makes RMB1,000 a month sitting at a desk in a pair of ill-fitting blue pants with a walkie-talkie and copy of yesterday’s Beijing Evening News. “Beijing is just such an exciting city right now. I feel like anything is possible. Maybe even pants that fit – who knows?” Mike Herbert-Strang / Editor, hat’s Beijing, 31

Mike Herbert-Strang likes to downplay his significance. “People will say I’m a pretty ordinary guy, really – I’ve often heard the word ‘talentless’ used,” Herbert-Strang laughs modestly. “And if you think getting exclusive interviews with millinery specialists is ordinary, then, yes... I’m ‘ordinary.’” Herbert-Strang, originally from a godforsaken mining village north of the Humber, arrived in Beijing nine years ago and swiftly ascended to the role of Flat Cap Editor at Beijing’s fourth most-read English-language hat magazine. “It’s about having vision,” Mike explains. “It’s about combining nightlife listings and tips on giving your baseball cap a new lease of life into a 74-page full-color magazine. It’s about capturing the local headwear zeitgeist. Last year was all tricorns and beanies. This year, it’s definitely the pompadour’s turn. I can make or break a struggling hat business. It’s that simple – one bad review, that’s all it would take, in theory, to pack their hats. Does The New York Times have that kind of power? No. Well, yes. But less so in Gulou, anyway.” Olive Zhang / Office Drone, 26

The idea of a four-hour daily commute to work involving crowded buses, multiple subway lines and a long walk might seem too much for some – but for Olive Zhang, it’s all in a day’s work. The newly promoted junior clerical assistant views the lengthy journey as an opportunity to prepare for the day ahead. “I like to use the time to think about how I can achieve my goals, and make good use of my education and training,” says the Chengdu University graduate. “It is important to remain positive and strong. Although I don’t have the right connections, looks or family background, I hope that one day the leaders will reward my hard work and diligence,” she says of her RMB2,600-a-month job at the Lixingdi Technology Export. Co., Ltd, where a typical 12-hour work day might consist of shopping on Taobao, talking on QQ, playing Tang Dynasty Super Dragon Quest and filling in spreadsheets within a last-minute two-hour deadline. “Several of my roommates are struggling to find any kind of stable work at all, so I consider myself fortunate to have this great opportunity and in our capital city as well!” Zhang gushes happily. “Also, I am pretty sure the boss wants to f*ck me.”

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 17 CITY HISTORY Teieh Or ntal Circuit Teh bruising world of Asia’s inter-war boxing BY PAUL FRENCH

O nce upon a time, there was a glittering prize in boxing in the East – being Champion of the Orient. Fighters from near and far came together to battle for the honor of wearing those belts and collecting the purses that went with them. They fought for the chance to move to the next level, the big leagues. To California, and maybe even a shot at a world title…

n the inter-war years, the ‘Oriental Circuit’ spanned the I region – from the always- sweltering Manila Arena and Singapore’s Happy World in the Badlands of Geylong, to Ipoh’s Jubilee Park and Batavia’s Deca- Park – known for its knock-down- the next and-drag-out fights – and the evening in Bukit Bintang Amusement Park in the swelter- Kuala Lumpur. But the ring where ing heat at the Happy the crowds were largest, the bet- World, before boarding another ting heaviest and the fighters al- ship over to Shanghai for more ways at the top of their game was ‘The circuit was brutal, gruelingly bouts, this time in the freezing in China: The Canidrome Gardens cold. This was journeyman box- in Shanghai’s Frenchtown. hard, requiring fighters to box several ing, right across Asia. Technically, the Oriental 10-round bouts a week, mostly Shelaeff fought at the most popu- Circuit was built on smaller, lar weight in Asia: welterweight. lighter-weight Asian fighters – outdoors, often in intense humidity’ In his brief but busy career, he Manilamen, Siamese sensations, fought most of the ranked tough guys from Java – but welterweights in the region. participants also came from George H. Burdett, aka ‘Clever Japan, Egypt, Siberia. Amid the Shelaeff, a White Russian priest’s Madison Square Garden some Henry,’ a Honolulu-based Filipino heavier-weight talent – either boy, fighting out of Harbin and day. Others crashed and burned, fighter, didn’t look too clever at hungry at the start of their ca- always with the support of the as so many fighters do – retiring one minute and 50 seconds past reers or serving time at the end local foreign crowd, whether he to run restaurants, eke out livings eight o’clock, unconscious on the – were those passing through fought in Heilongjiang, Tianjin or giving exhibition bouts in remote canvas of the Manila Arena. Fuge from Australia and England. US Shanghai. encampments of the British Raj Moroto, known as the ‘Japanese Marine champions stationed in or, in a few sad cases, not even Wonder,’ looked even less won- China fought at heavyweight, as There were events almost every making it out of the ring alive. derful when he crumpled and did British Highlanders up from night somewhere – Singapore, went down from a trademark the Hong Kong Garrison and Shanghai, Manila, KL, all with of- The circuit was brutal and gruel- Shelaeff right hook to the jaw in Japanese elite forces from occu- ficial rankings, promoters, book- lingly hard, sometimes requiring the first 10 seconds. pied Northeast China. ies, trainers and boxing hacks touring fighters to box several dedicated to reporting ringside 10-round bouts a week, mostly The Hammer came to Shanghai’s Among these was a smattering gossip. Some of the Oriental outdoors, often in intense hu- swank Canidrome in June 1937 of home-grown foreign talent Circuit came to be legends, made midity. Andre Shelaeff once sailed and KO’d Billy Addis, the ‘Marine too – notably the great welter- big purses and had good-enough from Manila to Singapore, train- Ace’ and a serving soldier weight Andre ‘The Hammer’ scorecards to qualify them for ing on deck, arrived and fought stationed in Shanghai. The

18 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com Fourth Marines in the arena that in KL long-forgotten as night went home pissed (in every ‘The ring where the shopping malls have sense); Shanghai’s betting com- risen up. The Canidrome munity went home rich. the crowds were limped on through various incarnations until, in But boxing everywhere has largest, the 2006, the wrecker’s ball its dark side. Shelaeff visited totaled the entire complex, Singapore’s Happy World Arena betting heaviest, including the magnificent and went eyeball-to-eyeball with and architecturally stunning the Filipino champion Lucio the fighters Canidrome Ballroom that ‘Young’ Alde. Young Alde, never had hosted the celebrating KO’d before in a long profes- always at the top winners and their entourages sional career spanning 200 on fight nights. fights in 15 years, went down on of their game… the canvas in the first minute. The fighters are pretty much Harbin and Shanghai’s White the Canidrome all historical footnotes now. Russian Wonder and favorite was Most never made it to the Welterweight Champion of the Gardens in big leagues, nor got big title Orient, but everyone thought Gunboat quit the Orient bouts – they fought, they won Alde took a backhander and Shanghai’s and finished his career fighting or lost, collected their purses and a dive. exhibition bouts in Rangoon moved on to the next city, the Frenchtown’ and India to semi-appreciative next arena and prize. The Oriental Championship belts have crowds; or ‘Young Frisco,’ Aka Circuit passed into history – Ko’d to be defended, though, Francisco Eusebio out of Pasay for eternity. and so the championship City, whose loyal female fol- came to the Canidrome. aged to land that lethal right- lowing was down to his suave // Paul French is the author of Midnight in July 20, 1938 – Shelaeff hook of his on Alde’s jaw. Latin looks; Mohammed Fahmy, Peking: The Murder that Haunted the Last Days of Old China (Penguin), the story of an unsolved versus the Russian George the Egyptian champion who murder in the Peking Badlands in 1937 Levchenko, 10 three-minute The ref came out with a judge’s toured the Far East; the great rounds. Levchenko came decision and called it a draw – Arab fighter Mohamed Noor bin with rep but Andre boos from all sides, bottles flying Bahiek, aka ‘Joe Diamond,’ who’d was buzzing on the at the ring, bookies cringing. been born in Mecca and had a Shanghai crowd’s Minutes later, the ref came back big Muslim following. Gambling Wondering how today’s vibe. He pummeled as the crowd were starting to file haram? It didn’t seem that way expats would compare to Levchenko, flooring out and admitted that he’d added when Diamond fought in the the sluggers of old? Popular him in the second up the numbers wrong: Shelaeff Dutch East Indies or the Federated white collar boxing event round – twice. The had won on points – the belt Malay States. And let’s not forget The Brawl on the Wall re- second time it was a dev- stayed his. the legendary Siamese fighter Nai turns this November 16, for astating trademark Shelaeff Som Pong, who eventually retired its second annual black-tie right hook and the heavier Shanghai’s gamblers got a mas- to concentrate on running his suc- charity gala. Siberian didn’t get up. The belt sive payday, but few believed cessful restaurant in Bangkok. stayed with Shelaeff. Shanghai that, in those precious few min- The knock-out event will wanted more of The Hammer. utes between announcements, All long gone now, all prize fight- see a variety of regular men the fix hadn’t gone in. Who ers in their day, great light and and women (read: pent-up And Young Alde wanted a fixed the fight? It’s a secret Old welterweights who graced the English teachers and angry rematch, a final fight before he Shanghai has yet to have given ring of the Canidrome Gardens in office workers) pitted against retired. Shanghai was the place up! It was also the last great fight Frenchtown. The Oriental Circuit one another, all in the name to cash out in the most spec- night at the Shanghai Canidrome was destroyed by the war. Soon of charity Leo’s Foundation. tacular way. A sweltering August before the war came in full force enough, US Marines were fighting night in 1938 – rumor says that and swept those crowds away on Japanese Marines for real – and // Tickets start at RMB8,000 (10 per table, more money was bet that even- a tide of history. to the death. And the Asia that price includes black tie sit-down dinner and free-flow wine and beer. Ringside tables ing than on any other single emerged from 1945 was too radi- include Champagne). 7.30pm, Renaissance fight in Shanghai’s history. As And with them names that cally changed to restart the Capital Hotel, 61 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, ever, Alde put up a tough fight were once legends. Who now former circuit. Chaoyang District. and never backed away from the remembers ‘Gunboat Jack,’ a 朝阳区东三环中路61号北京富力 punch – he went the 10 rounds, black fighter, born James Colzie, The venues are all gone now 万丽 but Andre was younger, faster, and originally out of Lawrence, – Happy World in Geylong to (150 0013 2063; www.wcbc.info) hungrier –though he never man- Massachusetts? Beltless, development, Bukit Bintang

George Salvadore Gunboat Jack

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 19 life&style stl y e radar

STYLE SECRETS Made in China Elisabeth Koch, Founder and Chief Creative Director Arm candy of Elisabeth Koch Millinery

(over 100 pieces) accumulated on. throughout the years, and loved How do you think being in to dress up in them and wear Beijing has influenced your style? them to weddings and other occa- In every way. From the lack of mil- sions. That’s how I decided to try a linery materials which has forced new career path. I left Brussels to me to go in search of unusual and attend the renowned Wombourne interesting non-traditional fabrics School of Millinery in the UK, and textiles, to Chinese people's where I studied millinery tech- eclectic styles in terms of fashion, niques. After graduation, I moved design, architecture and food. to Beijing and set up Elisabeth Koch Millinery. I hit the ground What do you enjoy most about running — and still am! your work? Overseeing the creation of a hat How did you get into millinery? Your aesthetic in three words: from start to finish, and the I’ve always liked hats. I’ve also Observant of craftsmanship, differ- process along the way: from the always loved making things with ent and eye-catching. idea that pops into my mind to a my hands. After getting my mas- client who adores the final piece ter’s degree in communications, Who is your typical client? and sends me photos of herself I started working in large banks Women from different walks wearing the hat at a certain event in Amsterdam and Brussels but, of life, from blushing brides to or with the Queen of England – once I got back home from work, I mature ladies. Also celebrities which has happened more than would begin to sew, draw, design and royals: Stella McCartney, the once. Who says you need a little black and make wearable objects. I had Queen of Holland, Zhou Xun, Paul bag to go with everything? a huge collection of vintage hats Smith… The list could go on and // www.elisabethkoch.net Boasting bright hues and a down- right creative flair, Shanghai-based handbags line Designed by Mary H churns out whimsical, expres- Six of the best… Winter scarves sive totes sure to give everyone something to gossip about by way of unexpected accessories. Crafted Demure chic Polka love Classic pom locally by Swedish designer Mary Hunyh – who launched the brand Black and gold (now Polka dots add a Nothing says ‘winter in 2011 – the timeless beauties there’s a pairing of cheerful vibe to cozyness’ more than are made of cowhide leather or colors that will never anything. H&M’s a pom-pom scarf. ultra soft lambskin and are sturdy, go out of fashion), woven two-tone This navy chunky oh-so pretty and extremely ver- this silky scarf by number is scarf with a cable satile: each design can be worn Snoozer Loser will boisterous but pattern by Topshop three ways according to the dif- complement any cute – perfect for reminds us of the ferent length straps. The idea is to smart outfit with cold winter days. wraps our granny complement different individual perfect panache. RMB179. used to knit. Love! styles with bags that fit different RMB350. RMB200. // H&M, Raﬄes City, 1 Dongzhimen Nandajie, occasions. Each item shifts effort- // snoozerloser.com // www.topshop.com Dongcheng 东城区东直门南大街1号来福 lessly from day to night, showing 士广场 (8409 4199, www.hm.com) a fashion stamina most carriers only dream of. Besides bags, the label also stocks unisex wallets, dapper pet leashes and toiletries Boyfriend Cozy contrast Luxurious feel bags. Prices from RMB200-1,900. style This cashmere Made with 100 Zara’s two-sided ultra snood from Demy percent yak down, // www.designedbymaryh.com, bundshop.com soft scarf is an ode Lee features a the ‘Serene scarf’ to tartan. Tough yet contrasting by Shokay will elegant, its masculine striped design become an instant tone will look great on and plenty of wardrobe staple. a wooly jumper and fluffy softness to keep Easy-to-wear, soft skinny jeans. RMB259. you stylish and cozy all season long. and plush, it can be // Daily 10am-10pm, The RMB1,653. dressed up or down Place, 9A Guanghua Lu, // Daily 1pm-8pm, Fei Space, 798 Art and always look the Chaoyang 朝阳区光华 District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝 part. RMB1,010. 路甲9号世贸天阶 (6587 阳区酒仙桥路2号798艺术区B-01 // www.shop.shokay. 1341/49, www.zara.cn) (59789580, www.feilook.com) com

20 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com Edited by bymarianna marianna cerini cerini [email protected] Street cred Workout City savvy Sunshine studios

Are you one of those people who secretly watches dance shows wishing you could sway like the folks on TV? Or do you just want to learn how to pop and break so you can bust out some moves and impress the opposite sex? Whatever the case, get off your couch now and head to Sunshine Studios. One of the biggest dance studios in its native UK, the hopping venture offers a slew of courses for both novices and experienced dancers. Spanning hip-hop, tap, salsa and ballroom, each dance session is an endorphin-pumping workout sure to make you sore after 60 intense minutes, but ready to come back and try it again. And if you get tripped up, don’t stress: the trained staff supply encouragement, reminding students that it’s okay to add their own flavor to the prescribed routine. Classes are RMB100 for one hour, with packages of up to 100 classes available. // Rm 120-1, Bldg 5, Gongti Bei Lu Sanlitun SOHO, Chaoyang district 朝阳区工体北路三里屯SOHO 5号商场120-1 (182 0157 3533; www.sunshine-studios.cn) Pauline (left) and Emma (right), Viktorija Slisere, French and Chinese, both working Latvian, Senior Manager at ACN in branding and advertising, Worldwide, wearing head-to- head to head wearing a combo of Zara, Banana toe Zara. Republic and Fendi bag (Pauline) Dr. Hauschka VS Khiel’s — The and head-to-toe H&M (Emma). challenge: the ultimate lip smacker Life lines Dr. Hauschka Khiel's “In truth, nobody can be Price: RMB158 Price: RMB149 Appearance: Lipstick-style cap Appearance: Toothpaste- completely perfect, as it’s and twist mechanism. tube-like container. Made with: Organic, cruelty- Made with: Petrolatum, plus difficult to avoid having even free ingredients, including: emollients like sweet almond small blemishes. Additionally, castor, rice germ and sweet al- oil and lanolin, vitamin E and mond oils; rose petal and carrot aloe leaf extract. SPF 4. the state of being either fat extracts; shea butter; carnauba Glide: More of a gloss than or thin is comparatively easier and jojoba waxes; SPF 5. a balm. A wee bit greasy; it Glide: Goes on easy, leaving just enough has a Vaseline-like effect, but to control. If you love her, sheen to mix well with lipstick. provides a nice slick landing strip for a you should do something to Flavor/Smell: Like a crisp orange rind, tinted lip product. without the actual sweetness of the fruit. Flavor/Smell: Classic (unflavored), plus endear yourself to her, and If it were a song, it’d be Outkast’s “So tasty alternatives like cranberry, mango, Fresh, So Clean.” coconut and vanilla options. then she will naturally lose Lasting power: One two hours. It doesn't Lasting power: About an hour. The lack weight for you.” quite absorb fully into the lips, but it of a wax-based formula means that it softens them very quickly. disappears soon after application. // A netizen advising Weibo user ‘Don’t Know How Deep’ Moisturizing factor: Good hydration and Moisturizing factor: Lips look both softer on his crush on a beautiful (but chubby) girl he set his protection, particularly for anyone with and, somehow, plumper. eyes on a few months ago. In a post, the boy asked, “Upon sensitive skin. // www.sephora.cn seeing a pretty girl who happens to be too fat, should I // www.dr-hauschka.cn still go after her?” The question has, to date, garnered some 13,000 comments, while the gal, a 19-year-old Hebei Dr. Hauschka’s balm outperforms its rival, adding serious moisture and a waitress, has apparently since lost 30kg. deliverable shine without any of Khiel’s greasiness and petrolatum overload.

COVET Airport scent Classic(al) wallet Called “The Scent of Departure”, this perfume supposedly Show off your nerdiest Chinese replicates the odors of famous airports – from Milano knowledge with this tear-proof Malpensa to London Heathrow and Tokyo Narita. A little paper wallet by Oneday. Etched with weird for a fragrance no doubt, but hey, haven’t you always characters from the Qing-era Kangxi dictionary, this simple money wanted to smell like you did that time you had to transfer holder will turn even the most hardened mono-linguist into a in Moscow and spend seven hours in Zurich before arriving certified language expert. Money and brains – what type of woman home after a two-day journey? RMB499. could possibly resist? RMB86. // Scent Library, Raﬄes City, 1 Dongzhimen Nandajie, Dongcheng 东城区东直门南 // 211 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng district 东城区鼓楼东大街211号 (6400 5419) 大街1号来福士广场

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 21 life&style L ead story

A cut above Te h ChINESE designers shaping fashion in the Middle Kingdom BY Marianna Cerini

22 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com he shows are almost London, Paris and Milan – some of gifted forces at work in China’s and the West – took their works over. The manic two of them are rapidly catching up. fashion world. to the catwalks of Europe’s top months that constitute Shanghai and Beijing’s China three fashion capitals. There is fashion week season Fashion Week (SFW and CFW) Within their backdrop, a new Qingdao-born Huishan Wang, are drawing to a close, are cases in point. That the two breed of homegrown and interna- Xiamen native Yifang Wan and Tfinally allowing the glossy posse events may still be in their infancy tionally educated talent has been former SFW participant Ping He of fashion editors, bloggers, de- is no breaking news. Usually held upping the country’s sartorial in London, Beijinger Masha Ma in signers and journalists to take a a month after their more estab- stakes and gradually reshaping Paris and Shanghai designer Uma break from sprinting to shows lished contenders – this year’s Chinese fashion to the global eye. Wang in Milan to name but a few. across the globe in search of the CFW ended November 1 – the next big trend. week-long shows retain a number This season, the Shanghai Fashion We’ve rounded up some of the of shortcomings, most notably a Designers Association and most noteworthy names that, Taking place twice a year in questionable line-up and messy Chinese multi-brand designer over the last few seasons, have countless cities around the world jumble of happenings that often retailer Dong Liang brought 11 come out of our very own SFW – from Bangkok to Islamabad – have little to do with fashion. Chinese designers to London fash- and CFW. The list is far from fashion weeks expose local design ion week. complete, but, if you want to sort to international audiences, often At the same time, however, both the wheat from the chaff to get a displaying fashion credentials un- ventures have been slowly devel- Similarly, and not for the first better understanding of China’s beknown to most. And if the rest oping identities of their own – at time, a slew of bright, young fashion innovators, this is a good might lack the international heft times confusing, at times strik- Chinese things – most of whom place to start. of The Gang of Four – New York, ingly interesting – showing plenty split their time between China

Chi Zhang Simon Gao Chris Chang

Known for the edgy elegance and avant- Beijing-born Simon Gao is one of those A ‘veteran’ of China’s fashion industry, Chris garde appeal of his menswear designs, Chi people that just always seems to get it Chang is a well-rounded fashion maven and Zhang could aptly be named the ‘Dark Prince’ right. A well-traveled chap, the 32 year old entrepreneur. The Parsons School of Design of Chinese fashion. The Beijing native left began studying abroad at the age of 15, graduate first started her own women’s wear China at the age of 16 to study in the UK, first in Singapore, then in Switzerland and line in Taipei and, after an eight-year stint as later pursuing an MA in haute couture at later New Zealand. He graduated in Fashion the General Manager of Prada Taiwan, head- Istituto Marangoni in Milan. Branding Management from the Raffles-BCIT ed to Shanghai to launch Poesia, a line of International Fashion College in Beijing and, sophisticated kids’ couture for girls aged 4-14. Zhang founded his eponymous label upon in 2012, launched his line SIMONGAO. The brand proved so popular among wealthy returning to China in 2008 and debuted at mamas that Chang soon branched into adult- CFW in 2011. This season, he showed at The same year, his debuting show at Beijing’s size versions of her creations, launching Seoul Fashion Week – evidence that his CFW made him famous overnight, granting Poesia by Chris Chang in 2009 and debuting designs are fast catching the attention of him participation in Paris Fashion Week last at SFW on the same year. fashion insiders beyond China. February and plenty of domestic and international attention. No wonder the upmarket Joyfully flamboyant, Chang’s style is humor- Full of mystique and experimentalism, French department store Galeries Lafayette ous, witty and ever-so buoyant. Fascinated Zhang’s collections play with apocalyptic has just commissioned him to design a by insects – check out her website – but also references, goth-inspirations and S&M. The limited edition collection for its soon-to-open by children's dolls, cartoon characters and results bring to mind a quirky Mad Max Beijing venture. birds, as well as her own Peruvian ancestry, industrial style – think Swarovski-studded gas her collections are injected with a sense of masks and asymmetric tailoring. Constantly exploring the bond between pageantry and high doses of fun. Mixing and masculine and feminine, the designer blends matching patterns and materials, Poesia by Chi Zhang’s designs aren’t for everyone, but sculptural lines with high-tech fabrics for an Chris Chang is pure jet-set material yet main- they’re some of the most interesting currently aesthetic that is avant-garde without being tains a colorful childlike touch that makes you coming out of China. gratuitously over the top. smile – a faultless combo of fashion and style. // www.zhang-chi.com // simon-gao.com // poesiaworld.com

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 23 life&style L ead story

‘Within their backdrop, a new breed of homegrown and internationally educated talent has been upping the country’s sartorial stakes’

24 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com Ji Cheng Helen Lee Qiu Hao George Chen

A leading influencer on China’s Shanghai designer Helen Lee has If we had to name a Chinese China-born, US-educated George fashion scene, award-winning been both witness and leader of designer whose work is truly Chen is a graduate of New York’s Ji Cheng trained at Istituto China’s design development since bringing creative avant-garde for- Fashion Institute of Technology, Marangoni in Milan and has its inception, making her one of ward both domestically and inter- where he developed a passion for worked at Basic Krizia, Missoni the more interesting designers to nationally, Qiu Hao would be first clean lines and dapper menswear Sport and D’A as designer and vis- come out of the local fashion on the list. Starting his first ready- tailoring. In 2010, he started ual director. In 2002, she founded pack. Having trained in China at a to-wear line Neither Nor in 2001, designing for Shanghai label her eponymous label, La Vie by Ji joint program conceived by Qiu went on to study Fashion threeSociety, of which he’s now Cheng, and has since participated Shanghai’s Donghua University Womenswear in Central Saint Creative Director, broadening ho- in industry events worldwide. and LaSalle College in Montreal, Martins in London and estab- rizons for menswear made in she spent three years honing her lished his second line QIUHAO in China. The brand has just made Having debuted at SFW in 2011, craft in Japan upon graduation. 2006. its debut at SFW with a rave-wor- she has continued making waves thy show held in collaboration across the industry on the global Lee returned home in 2003 and In 2008, Qiu joined the ranks of with accessory brand Tendence – stage, with an Eastern-inspired launched her brand Insh, before Armani, D&G and Karl Lagerfeld a jump that puts Chen at the fore- catwalk debut in London in 2012. later being invited to attend when he was awarded the front of China’s designers to This season, she has opened SFW Shanghai’s first fashion week. Woolmark Prize. Two years later, watch. – an honor only reserved to the In 2008, Lee developed a more Forbes named him one of the cream of the crop. sophisticated, chic look under her 25 most influential individuals Classic without being boring, self-titled brand, Helen Lee – now in the Chinese fashion industry threeSociety has shone since Designing clothes that one of SFW’s main focal points and, in 2011, he was nominated their launch thanks to its strong re-interpret forms and colors from (Lee’s show closed last month’s by WGSN for the Breakthrough emphasis on fabric quality, crea- traditional Chinese fashion us- event, which, like opening it, is a Designer Award. tive details and simple yet edgy ing Western techniques, Cheng major moment for any designer). masculine fits that blend opposite preaches a Zen aesthetic through Qiu’s shows are some of the cultural aesthetics – think East balanced design: bound but mov- With a higher-end positioning, most anticipated events on the meets West but in a sophisticat- ing, heavy but not oppressive, advanced manufacturing tech- SFW calendar: perfect displays of ed, devoid of clichés way. bright but unassuming. niques and luxury fabrics, the conceptually-driven design and label Helen Lee offers a more ma- deconstructed fashion – all done Injecting lively jolts of color or Her creations are simultane- ture approach to fashion. Lee has through an aesthetic permeated form to traditional constructions, ously futuristic and referential to her eyes firmly focused on China’s by a subtle Chinese philosophy. Chen likes to play with diverse ancient Chinese beauty, and it’s past, present and future, and that His sculptural silhouettes are a textures, ranging from leather this encounter of two worlds that shines through in her aesthetics, wonder to behold, and so is his trimming to silk printing, while raises her above the rest. inspired by Chinese elements re- use of contrasting symbolism. staying true to a gracious ap- // www.lavie.com.cn imagined with new flair. // qiuhaoqiuhao.com proach to style. // www.helenleefashion.com // www.threesociety.com

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 25 life&style Fah s ion

ARRILSBy Marianna Cerini VA

Isabel Marant x Small White & H&M Big White

H&M is famed for its designer Another new arrival on collaborations, but this Fangjia Hutong, Small White autumn sees one of its most & Big White joins the grow- anticipated collections yet, as ing parade of independent the Swedish retail giant teams shops and businesses (El Nido, up with Parisian designer Cellar Door) that have made Isabel Marant. Synonymous this stretch of Old Beijing so with boho chic and minimalist popular among hipsters and aesthetics, Marant is a favorite artsy types alike. Rammed among fashion magazines, with hand-selected pieces by and her first high-fashion line, owner Mao Mao and her busi- featuring clothes and acces- ness partner Zhao Daye – who sories for women as well as personally makes the leather the designer’s first foray into wallets on sale, imprinted with men’s and childrenswear, does his own illustrations, the shop not disappoint. Described by consists of a room filled with one fashion editor as “high- cartoony hoodies, apocalypse- end-Navajo-cum-off-duty- themed tees, trendy sneakers model-aesthetic,” highlights of and breezy blouses, alongside the collection include an quirky accessories by local de- embellished trophy jacket, signers, geometric table lamps leather cropped trousers and and vintage-looking home- slouchy boots. Hitting stores wares, in what is a funky – if on November 14, this is a at times a tad cluttered – mix collection you don’t want to match of tastes and styles. miss. // 76 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng // H&M, 72-82 Qianmen Dajie, 东城区方家76号 Chongwen 崇文区前门大街A16栋 (6706 0508, www.hm.com)

Cheap Monday Klättermusen

Those of you following fashion Ski aficionados, rejoice: Swedish news may have noticed that brand Klattermusen has just grunge is back. That bold, ba- arrived in town. The outdoor dass style that was all the rage gear maker is a real pro when in the 90s experienced a huge it comes to resistant and insu- revival on last season’s fall/ lated clothing for big heights. winter catwalks. Rolling with It also takes the environmental the trend, Cheap Monday’s design issue pretty seriously, autumnal collection for both as most of its garments are him and her is a commercial made with organic materials, take on the look and its youth- fluorocarbon-free and dyed ful iconoclasm. Aptly called with natural herbs. Best yet, “ArtificialG runge,” the line the folks behind it offer a re- takes a cue from the crisp cycling policy for most items, Seattle weather—circa 1992, so that when customers return featuring mesh, layer-worthy them Klättermusen disposes or button downs, monochromatic recycles them in the best way lines and graphic contrasts, possible. Currently in stock are for a range that’s strong and jackets (RMB4,988-8,848), trou- sturdy. RMB150-1,100. sers (RMB2,488-4,888), bags // Catalog, shop NLG-00, B1, Taikoo Li (RMB528-1,588) and sweaters North, Sanlitun Lu 11, Chaoyang 朝阳区 (RMB2,588-2,988). 三里屯路11号三里屯Village北区B1楼 // 12 Fangjia Hutong, Dongcheng NLG-00号东城区方家12号 (6407 4480)

26 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com GapFit G-Star

An athletic collection exclusively G-Star is all about contradiction, designed for women, GapFit is craftsmanship and innovation the latest addition to the über- this season. Known for its 3D extensive Gap range, and a line cutting and edgy style, the den- sporty types will be very happy im brand’s three classic collec- to get their hands on. Stylish and tions – Raw Correct, Raw Cargo comfortable, the activewear has and Raw Essentials by designer been conceived for workouts, extraordinaire Marc Newson – running or just relaxing, and is unveil the endless possibilities of available in a variety of styles that the fabric in its most unexpected can be mixed and matched. A forms. Combining skinny pants wide selection of tops, bottoms, with oversized jackets in a pal- sports bras and jackets – ranging ette of deep blues, the women’s from stretch cotton pants and line (RMB1,098-3,598) plays with pocket capris (RMB179-299) to rac- different volumes, while mens- erback (RMB129-199) and sporty wear pieces (RMB1,498-3,598) in jacket (RMB299-349) – offer super G-Star’s signature double dyed comfy training gear, while the blue features top quality materi- colorful palette that characterizes als and streetwear styling, each the whole range is set to make any benefited by the industrial de- training session a little less tiring sign techniques Newson brings and a bit more fun. to fashion. Partly inspired by // Shop 177/276, 1/F, 2/F, Indigo Mall, 18 late-1940s US servicemen, the Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒仙桥路 3D denim is designed with a 18号颐堤港商场1层及2层店铺号177/276 modern loose fit – a salute to the (8426 0386 www.gap.cn) good old days. // L3, Seasons Place Shopping Mall, 2 Jinchengfang Jie, Financial Street Xicheng 西城区金城坊街2号金融街购物中心3层

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 27 life&style spa Yi Xin Tang Astrotech Rod Treatment

practice room to begin our session – something called the Astrotech Rod treatment, a century old practice favored by Empress Cixi, which involves the back and legs being battered repeatedly with a 4kg baton filled with sand, rice, millet, red beans, Chinese herb and, I can only presume, sufficient unday afternoon, and I’m quantities of qi. standing outside an unas- S suming tower block in Its desired effect is to smoothen Sanyuanqiao. I’m about to take the out your meridian flow (mine elevator to the 10th floor, into the was all over the shop, after a late not so unassuming practice room one in Sanlitun the night before) of Liu Qing Yun, master of all and work out any aches, pains or things Chinese medicine. even depression. I’d liken its attack on pain to fighting fire with fire. He’s an expert in qigong, the art of Little bit sore, but unquestionably harnessing one’s internal energy to therapeutic. After the two-hour find, amongst other things, inner treatment my body certainly felt peace and eternal health. His stu- loose and limber – and there was dio is full of impressive paintings qi coming out of my ears. and calligraphy, skills which I’m told he instantly mastered, simply As I departed, Dr. Liu imparted by focusing his internal qi. some sage advice, no doubt gath- ered from a close reading of my Dr. Liu, a 41-year-old Hebei native, body’s hidden internal signals: and lifelong Chinese medicine stu- “Drink more water.” Got it. SG dent, is the kind of man who sits with perfect posture, maintains // Astrotech Rod Session 1,000RMB/hour, a constant knowing smile, and 1009#1 No2, Shang Jia Lou Road, Chao Yang drinks a lot of green tea. We share District 朝阳区尚家楼路2号1009#1 (1197 some, before moving into his 7630; www.liushiyixintang.com)

S ports Power-Up! Free Powerhouse Gym session for every reader

bearing equipment, set within plenty of space. There’s a huge variety of choice, including an expan- sive free weights and dead lift section, as well as brand new cardio equipment, meaning there’s more than enough for everybody, even during peak after-office hours. magazine, and add us on WeChat, There a number of qualified per- to claim a free trial session at sonal trainers, and regular daily either one of Powerhouse’s classes including aerobics, yoga two central locations – in the and hot yoga, salsa, kick-boxing, Oriental Kenzo Office Bulding, belly dancing, and hip-hop dance. on Dongzhimenwai Daijie There's also a swimming pool, or in the LG Twin Towers, on sauna and spinning. Jianguomenwai Dajie.

Unlike other gyms, Powerhouse Time to work up a sweat! owerhouse Gyms are one of presence in over 20 countries remains family owned and oper- the world’s leading names worldwide – including China. ated, and currently led by its CEO, // Mon-Fri 7am-10pm, Sat-Sun 10am-10pm, P in the fitness industry. Henry W. Dabish – himself a keen 3/F, West Tower, LG Twin Towers, 12B Originally opened by William and Here in Beijing, Powerhouse has fitness enthusiast. Jianguomenwai Dajie Chaoyang District 建外 Norman Dabish in 1975 in the US been undergoing several changes, 大街乙12号LG双子座西塔3楼 (5828 7718) state of Michigan, Powerhouse including a massive upgrade of its Don’t believe us? Why not come // Mon-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat-Sun 10am-10pm, C/F, is today the largest health club facilities in its central Dongzhimen and check it for yourself, with Oriental Kenzo Oﬃce Bldg, 48 Dongzhimenwai licensing organization in the location. The newly refurbished this exclusive That’s Beijing of- Dajie Dongcheng district 东直门外大街48号 world, with over 300 licensees in gym has a wide range of the latest fer – simply scan a copy of the QR 东方银座写字楼C层 (8447 6980) 40 states across the US, and with ergonomically designed weight- code on the front of this month's

28 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com A Swim with a view T he Imperial Mansion, Beijing Marriott Executive Apartments By Qiao Zhi aspect of the residents’ experience the pressures of modern life, espe- is of the highest quality. “I think high- cially in Beijing. “People need a place n the past, wealthy merchants end guests today pine for something to relax and relieve the stress of day- and travelers who arrived in more, something a little extra – all the to-day life. Many of our residents are I China’s capital would congre- big executive apartments offer a cer- coming to Beijing for the first time, gate around the great commercial tain level of luxury, but few have that so things like keeping fit and staying centers of Qian’men and Dashilar, special wow factor, and I like to think healthy tend to take on an additional where goods from across China and that’s where we come in.” importance. It’s a means of maintain- the known world would be traded, ing a sense of stability.” bought and sold in the shadow of The Imperial Mansion, Beijing the nearby imperial palace. Marriott Executive Apartments are The benefits of healthy living extend certainly special. But as Peng, who into the executive apartment’s res- Although today the city’s commercial personally oversees even the most taurant options, which offer a variety center may have shifted into the minor detail, points out, most mod- of healthy balanced dishes. “Our outlying Central Business District, the ern travelers today are in fact look- menu options are designed to cater wider Qian’men hub and surrounding for a combination of luxury and for international residents who want ing areas continue to act as the city’s home comfort. “An executive apart- good quality food that they can eat beating heart – drawing thousands the busiest and most bustling part of ment is quite different from a regular on a daily basis – this means that of tourists, business people and today’s capital, the Imperial Mansion hotel,” explains Peng. “Residents it is has to be practical and familiar visiting statesmen each year. The offers visitors a chance to experience tend to stay for a minimum of a as well as high-end. We try to add pull of the historical district is un- the energy and vibrancy of ancient month, therefore the challenge for us diversity by offering a selection of derstandable. Home to Tiananmen Beijing. is to provide high-end living condi- Chinese, Asian and Western dishes Square, the Great Hall of the People tions that feel luxurious without feel- that please all tastes,” says Peng. and Zhongnanhai – the seat of the Imperial Mansion General Manager, ing too restricted – essentially, these current Chinese government, the Pearl Peng, elaborates on the area’s apartments are intended to be a The Imperial Mansion, Beijing area defines China – both past and attractiveness to residents – both home-away-from-home.” Marriott Executive Apartments are present – unlike any other. international and domestic: “Long designed to appeal to both short- term residents are drawn to the Be that as it may this is an extraor- and long-term stays, offering studios, One thing that has changed, how- center of Beijing, as it’s the center dinary home. The Imperial Mansion 1, 2 and 3-bedroom apartments, ever, is the choice of accommoda- of China; there is something very offers views of the Forbidden City with fully equipped kitchens, dining tion available to visitors. Whereas special about being here, in the very from both the 24-hour fitness center rooms, living rooms, high-speed once, the area’s famous imperial heart of the action – waking up in the and top-floor indoor sunlight pool. wireless Internet, and dedicated splendor was strictly limited to the morning and being able to see the “Guests really like to swim in the work areas. “Residents, especially city’s most privileged nobility, today Forbidden City. And from here, you pool,” says Peng. “It’s quite a stun- those that arrive with families, don’t it’s available to all – at a cost. Take for can reach every part of the city with ning way to end or begin each day, want to eat in the restaurant every example, the newly opened Imperial relative ease, it’s a very convenient gazing out at Beijing’s most recog- night, they want to maintain a regular Mansion, operated by Beijing location to explore and get to grips nizable landmark while doing a few family rhythm – as a mother myself, Marriott Executive Apartments. As with Beijing.” lengths.” I understand this need. We try to the name might suggest, these make it as family friendly as possible, executive apartments rival even the Peng, who headed up the apart- Peng, who is herself a keen tennis and provide lots of additional space, most exclusive of regal offerings. ment’s grand opening late last year, player, considers sport and exercise such as our dedicated kids room, Located next to Wangfujing Avenue, takes great care to ensure that every to be an important counterweight to especially for children,” says Peng.

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 29 arts collage

Drum Roll FILM God Bows To Math In Cinemas Oct box office 11/06 11/20 1. Young Detective Dee: Rise of the Sea 2. Now You See Me 3. The Lone Ranger 4. Love Will Tear Us This Aukland noise-rock trio are Thor: The Dark World Gravity known as one of New Zealand’s Apart most dangerous bands. They Hunk Chris Hemsworth is back Two astronauts on a routine mis- recently split a 7” record with as the Norse deity Thor, swing- sion wind up stranded in orbit. 5. Out of Inferno Shanghai, most dangerous noise- ing his magical hammer with The resulting heart-pounding rock duo, Pairs, and are deepen- gay abandon. The sequel picks disaster doesn’t rely on twists 6. Amazing ing their connections to China up a year after the shenanigans and turns for tension, but the by bringing their noise invasion of Marvel crossover movie The emotional complexity of being 7. Turbo on a national tour. Guitarist Avengers. Now the man with stuck in the vast emptiness of Martin Phillips explains how the massive mallet is up against space. Starring Sandra Bullock 8. My Lucky Star hazardous it is going to get… a very, very old primeval race and George Clooney, Gravity has led by Malekith the Accursed been lauded as a visual effects 9. The Fox Lover How do you approach touring? (Christopher Eccleston), who game-changer in the realm of Star It’s the first time we’ve been to seeks to plunge the whole Wars or Avatar, and has already 10. Silent Witness China... We’re really looking for- universe into darkness. Natalie generated Oscar buzz for director ward to it and it’ll be the biggest Portman returns as love interest Alfonso Cuaron (Children of Men, tour we’ve done. We’ve toured Jane Foster. Great Expectations). enough to know our strengths and weaknesses. The only differ- Source: MTime.com ence is the surroundings. Gossip

What is your show like? Got your goat Pretty energetic. Our music is loud and abrasive. For three people who are incredibly unfit Cartoon Pleasant Goat and Big Big we somehow manage to keep it Wolf (essentially a very tame Itchy going for 30 minutes or so. Lots and Scratchy) has nevertheless of loud guitar, fast drums and ired national censors for appear- jumping around really. ing too vulgar and violent for children’s TV. On the show, the animal For people that haven’t heard antagonists are frequently boiled, your music, how would you de- set alit and electrocuted. But this scribe your sound? realistic display of the lupine- Noisy, chaotic and intense. ovine dynamic may be stamped Basically if you like McLusky, out, thanks to new guidelines Jesus Lizard and Die! Die! Die! that restrict what content can be then you’ll probably enjoy it. shown. Think of the lives saved...

So what’s up with the band name? It’s taken from a song by The Young Mao Feast your eyes Minutemen... I still really like the name because it reminds me to stay true to our roots. The teenage years of Mao Zedong E very few months a Chinese art- may be coming to our screens – as work smashes some record. In Does God really bow to math? an animated film, no less. Hoping October, it was the popular con- I sometimes describe this god as to appeal to younglings, the temporary artist Zeng Fanzhi, allowing his creation dominion movie will document the budding after his ‘The Last Supper’ sold over the earth – in effect, bow- chairman’s youth in the coun- at Sotheby’s Hong Kong for ing to the infinite mathematical tryside, as he plays pranks and USD23.1 million, the largest complexity of his creation. gambols gleefully – while discov- amount ever paid for a work of ering the merits of Communism, contemporary Asian art – and // nov 7, 8.30pm. mao livehouse, 111 gulou perhaps even encouraging his for any living Chinese artist. Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东 toys to form a farming collective. Basing his creation on Da Vinci’s 大街111号 (6402 5080, www.maolive.com) It is expected to open Macau iconic meal, Zeng will never go International Film Festival. hungry again.

30 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com Edited by james tiscione [email protected]

You’ve Never Read Transcripted Liu Meisong “ Humor should aim to make people laugh, not to laugh at From watching fallen gran- convince people I’d pay nies to run-over children, them back over a total of China has a cornucopia of 153.7 hours - an average people. You are all physically bad Samaritans. But is all mu- 92 minutes a day.” Most tual trust between us lost forever in of that time was spent convincing well trained, which is sup- the headlong quest for cash? people his wife would wire back the borrowed sums – all of which This is something relatively he’s supposedly paid back. posed to be a sign of positive unknown poet and writer Liu Meisong finds out after leaving Liu was not only out to collect Shenzhen three years ago, without feel-good stories, but also “refusal energy, but making fun of a yuan to his name. Instead, he rates” to illustrate how hard of a kept a stack of printed IOUs, bear- journey it was. He was refused at ing his name, address and ID. 67 percent of the gas stations he thinner and weaker people visited and 70 percent of hotels. The Hubei native returned a 100 does not make you days, 28,510 kilometers and 222 However, IOU is far from a con- IOUs later with stories of doubt, trolled experiment or a social disappointment and kindnesses barometer. 45-year old Liu heads a more superior that fill his book – called, appropri- Shenzhen publishing house, drives ately enough, IOU. “I wasn’t out to an SUV and can eloquently plead than anyone.” test how much trust is out there as his case – in other words, he has remind people it still exists,” Liu told the appearance of someone who Guo Jingming responds to being the Nandu Daily. could pay you back. mocked live on a reality show. The popular young adult novelist has Laying strict ground rules for his If anything, his story offers a ro- transitioned into film with his critically trip - no begging, no odd jobs and, mantic narrative, one that runs reviled but extremely popular above all, no money from spon- counter to what we see on the Tiny Times movies. The ma- sors - Liu traveled across 30 prov- news – or even in line for the bus. jority of the audience sup- inces, from Heilongjiang to Tibet, It’s one we want to believe in. ported Guo’s instant response completely on cash borrowed –but the 30-year-old, Sichuan- along the way – 48,272.50 yuan “Every time I felt extreme hopeless- born Shanghai University (USD7,885.07), to be precise. ness, you found that hope was on dropout has also won three the horizon. Every time I felt a little Golden Crow Awards as the Precision was part of the plan. “I vis- proud, I was handed a defeat,” said Most Hated Male Celebrity ited 191 gas stations, pleaded with Liu. “Gradually, the pattern began in China, awarded through 53 hotels and passed through 163 to take shape in front of my eyes. online voting. toll booths,” writes Liu. “I tried to This is the pattern of our lives.” JT

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 31 arts Underground Godfather of the Month Gilles Peterson Godfather of: Eclectic Age: 49 Fact: Made his radio hosting debut as a teenager by attaching an antenna to his dad’s car battery. He took calls from listeners in the local phone box.

// rmB 150 (presale)/ 200 (door), t he drop nov 7. cicada ultralounge; Beats, blops and breakz see p. 35 BY Alex Taggart

f all the jobs in nightlife, maibu next door), and feel good it. On November 7, Cicada contribution to the DongDong I have two of the easi- about keeping the scene alive. Ultralounge (see review p54) urban music festival, featuring O est: columnist and DJ. will host Gilles Peterson, a UK big dogs from all over South I go to events, where I either Which is graced this month with legend and a DJ in the pure East Asia, plus a couple of play music or dance, then write not only an international DJ but sense: no genre wankery or Shanghai’s finest. It’s on a bass- about it. But spare a thought for also one of the world’s biggest turntable trickery – it’s all about heavy future-dancehall tip, so those poor sods, the nightclub dance music brands, as Lantern the right record at the right expect all kinds of dubby music owners. Those old dudes are host a Resident Advisor party on time, whatever that might be. (from reggae to drum ‘n’ bass), constantly putting their arses on November 2. Resident Advisor Fair play to the venue for taking with a little South East Asian the line so we can have an al- is basically the Wikipedia of DJs a gamble on this one – go along spice. Come fi’ get ahy wind on. ternative to bottle-service meat- – an indispensible resource for for a post-work drink and show markets playing that “SHOTS! clueless nightlife writers. They’re them they made the right call. And finally, a shout out to those SHOTS! SHO-SHO-SHO-SHOTS!” bringing Prosumer, a Berlin crazy psytrance weirdos Goa thing. house DJ who I didn’t even need If those jazzy sounds leave Productions, who release their to look up, I swear. If you like you with a taste for something latest compilation, Kui 2, with Next time you’re in Dada, Haze, house music, you’ll like this. a little… duttier, then check a party at MAO Livehouse on Lantern or the like, do the out Dada the following night, November 16. What? You didn’t owner a solid and buy a bunch Next up, a party on a Thursday. November 8. SBKVLT, aka long- know Beijing was a psytrance of drinks (or simply refrain from Usually I wouldn’t recommend time Shanghai bass promoters powerhouse? Where have you getting Yanjings from the xiao- such insanity, but this is worth Sub-Culture, throw down their been? Liv Livd an let die BY Valentina Luo

nother cavernous, kitsch, meeting. The decadent perfor- lasts as long the bottle of L’Or costly club. That’s exactly mances, which seem to involve de Jean Martell (RMB62,080) A what we need on Gongti skimpily dressed girls and this gimmick requires. Xilu, where nightspots are al- robotic moves, are the kind of ready crammed next each other things that Studio 54 stopped Now everyone has seen and like shiny stilettos on Imelda doing because they went out of stared at you, it’s time to com- Marcos’s shelves. But who cares, fashion. Nevertheless, there’s plain bitterly about the lack of right? Spend it, flaunt it – buy no door cover – some might privacy and retreat to a private another pair. consider it an absolute bargain room – each named after a to pay a visit. different animal and with a And here we are. Months after 50”-screen flat-screen for KTV. opening Cutie Club (which we My friend and I look inside. In diligently reviewed in May), the middle of the main room None of this is new, says my self-proclaimed ‘Leaders of there lie four U-shaped sofas, friend, a veteran party animal Chinese Entertainment’ Nuoya each large enough to hold one and events-planning manager. Fangzhou (‘Noah’s Ark’) Group, middle-aged Chinese business- Then she saw the multi-tiered have finally officially launched man, his belly, and at least 12 fruit platter with giant gold Liv, their flagship store, upstairs bored sanpeinü – pretty much dragon rearing over it (pic- from their pilot branch. (We the regular crowd. Amazingly, tured, right). The manager as- visited Liv before at an awards these seats are controllable. sured us they have the entire ceremony inside its pitch-dark They can rise and fall, and can zodiac collection. industrial innards at 4pm on a thus offer you (and your com- blazing summer’s afternoon) panions) a better view of the // mon-sun 9pm - 5am. 6 gonti Xi lu, not just for the size of it – Jack club (perhaps more importantly, chaoyang district, 朝阳区工体西路(6708 This new one’s less Noah’s Ark and Rose would probably though, the club gets a better 9898) and more the SS Titanic, and have gotten lost before ever view of you) – a privilege that

32 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com Music h erBIe goes to china thcit e ‘ro k ’ man talks geek, Buddhism and how we’re all insane BY James Tiscione

or nearly 50 years, jazz Lang’ in 2008 for a performance Hancock returned in 2010, wouldn’t have been open to if pianist Herbie Hancock of ‘Rhapsody in Blue’ to cele- sponsored by the US State he had “not experienced it first F has made a career out of brate his River: The Joni Letters’s Department, for a tour with through the music.” disappointing critics and alienat- Best Album Grammy. The incon- students from the Thelonious ing fans by “crossing over.” The gruous couple subsequently Monk Institute of Jazz, where Now a devout practitioner of Chicago native prefers to call it toured the world, playing Ravel he serves as chairman. 41 years, Hancock says his faith “coming together.” to Vaughn Williams, and him to stop thinking of himself effectively introducing Hancock Yet his greatest connection to as a “musician… That changed In 1967, employer Miles Davis and jazz to hundreds of millions Asia is of the spiritual kind. everything,” he says. “If I see offered the 27-year-old an elec- of Chinese. Hancock was playing a gig myself fundamentally as a musi- tric piano for the first time in in Seattle in 1972, when he cian, there’s a division between a New York recording studio. “I was hesitant,” says Hancock. experienced something “mysti- me and other human beings. Hancock, a self-defined “jazz “I hadn’t touched a piece of cal” during a jam with bassist But if I see myself as a human snob”, called it “a toy.” Eight classical music for 20 years, and Buster Williams. After the show, being, there are no divisions. years later, a coked-up Lou Reed there I was playing concert rep- Williams introduced him to was telling abrasive rock writer ertoire. But I learned a lot from the Japanese sect of Nichiren “The great benefit from glo- Lester Bangs how it’s “interest- him, and by the end I had Lang Buddhism and its rhythmic balization is what the Internet ing what Hancock’s doing with Lang improvising too.” chanting, something he says he promises – a more diverse plan- the Arp” – the advanced syn- et, especially in ideas, which we thesizer featured on Hancock’s need more than ever, especially Head Hunters. The funk- and environmentally… An example African-inspired crossover al- ‘I always though Buddhism could help of insanity is someone who bum would become the first burns their house down while jazz record to go platinum. “I me with stay wired and connected. they’re already in it. We must hate Herbie Hancock,” Bangs be insane, because that’s what answered. Unfortunately most of the study we’re doing.” By 1983, Hancock was wearing materials are on my iPad’ Hancock believes that technol- a sweatsuit on Sesame Street, ogy can save us – so passion- explaining ‘Rockit’ – a spider’s ately, our interview ran over nest of drum machines, synths time talking about it. Tied with and turntable scratching that a system designed by engi- would become a classic break- neers at software developers dance anthem – to a bunch Cycling74, Hancock mans two of kids around a cumbersome keyboards (a Korg Kronos and workstation called a Fairlight Yamaha Motiv), 5 iPads running CMI. The technology would MAX controller software, loop enable artists from NWA and LL machines, pedals and a new Cool J to Digable Planets and addition called Leap Motion – a US3 to rip hundreds of samples gesture sensor that enables us- from Hancock’s back catalogue. ers to manipulate sounds with a swipe of a hand. Both a senior statesman of – and the nicest man in – jazz, “I’m a real geek; I love that the 14-time Grammy winner stuff. I’ve been that way all my returns to China in November life,” laughs Hancock, who once to perform three hours of clas- took apart clocks at home and sics, including ‘Maiden Voyage,’ studied engineering. “I fight ‘Watermelon Man,’ ‘Cantaloupe tooth and nail to stay wired Island,’ and yes, a short version and connected. I always though of ‘Rockit.’ Buddhism could help me with that. Unfortunately most of His all-star quartet includes the materials I study are on my Beninese guitarist Lionel iPad,” he laughs. Loueke; bassist James Genus, who played most recently on “The technological age is so Daft Punk’s Random Access new for all of us. We’re all still Memories; and the sought-after waiting to see what happens.” Vinne Coliauta on drums, who “only makes time for me when // herbie hancock and his Quartet, rmB300- he’s not touring with Sting.” 900, november 9, 8pm-11pm. mastercard center, ThinkPad But Hancock’s name may only space, 69 fuxing lu, haidian district海淀区 ring bells here as that ‘lovely 复兴路五棵松文化体育中心(400 610 black gentleman who played 3721; en.damai.cn/event/tickets_56682/; alongside spiky-haired Lang [email protected])

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 33 arts spl ecia report: Classical Music BOB MARLEY AND ME Tashe W iler ’ vocalist Dwayne Danglin on replacing a legend BY Andrew Chin

‘ Excuse Me Miss.’ Stepping into As the most famous Good vibrations: Dwayne Danglin the role of a singer whose great- of the early reggae est hits album Legend has sold pioneers, The Wailers some 25 million copies world- have a history that wide cannot have been easy. stretches back over “Those are shoes no one can fill so I don’t even try,” he says. 50 years and spans “My focus is to offer a sincere the globe. But performance giving the audience the best of me through current lead singer the music of my musical idol, Dwayne Danglin the legendary Bob Marley.” only joined the While the current edition of band a few years The Wailers lives in the shadow of their trailblazing legacy, the ago. We asked him group continues to be active. what it is like to They collaborated with country singer Kenny Chesney for a sec- step into the shoes ond time on the song ‘Spread of an icon whose the Love’ on his latest album, and Danglin is currently work- image continues ing on a solo project, buoyed to be emblazoned by the single ‘She Gimmie Love’ that is currently receiving air- across college dorms play across Jamaican radio. around the world, and what we can The six-piece group is making their first appearance inA sia expect from their since 2011, and Danglin men- upcoming Beijing tions that Aston is especially excited, since it is his first trip show. to the Middle Kingdom. The Wailers emerged from ‘Our main focus is to spread the “We just want to encourage Kingston’s pioneering reggae the fans in China to come out scene of the late 1960s out of message of positive vibrations across in great numbers to partake in two separate music factions. this musical feast of positive Initially known as The Teenagers, the globe’ vibrations,” he says. “We really the Wailing Wailers consisted of hope that you are all just as ex- a trio of talented singer-song- cited as we are. One love.” writers in Bob Marley, Peter Tosh carnation, leading The Original While The Wailers remained and Bunny Wailer. Wailers, a different group. a longtime touring institution //nov 6, 8pm, rmB380-480. even after Marley’s 1981 death yugongyishan, 3-2 Zhang Zizhong lu, The group would only take off, However, it is The Wailers who from cancer, Danglin joined the Dongcheng District 愚公移山, 东城区张自 though, when they teamed up are coming to Beijing, and, group in 2010 after catching 忠路3-2号 (6404 2711; with brothers Aston ‘Family despite the confusion, singer their ear with his first single www.yugongyishan.com)” Man’ Barrett and Carlton Dwayne Danglin promises a Barrett, the rhythm section of show that will celebrate Marley pioneering reggae producer and the group’s legacy. Lee ‘Scratch’ Perry’s house band The Upsetters. “The set is primarily made up of the classics. Family [Man A label change led to a name Barrett] chooses the songs to changed and Bob Marley & The his liking, based on his 40-plus Wailers would enter musical years of touring,” Danglin ex- lore. While the group’s lineup plains. “However, you can rest has always been fluid since assured that we will be per- Tosh and Wailer departed in forming hits such as ‘One Love’ 1974, it is particularly confusing and ‘Three Little Birds,’ as we these days, with original bass- are aware that these are crowd ist Aston ‘Family Man’ Barrett favorites. Our main focus is to now leading The Wailers, while spread the message of positive Al Anderson, who played key- vibrations across the globe.” board in the classic mid-70s in- Bob in his heyday, with Aston Barrett on bass.

34 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com Music Gi lles Peterson: The DJ’s DJ BBC star on ‘GTA V’ and tracking down asia’s finest BY James Tiscione

iew any playlist compiled ondary,” he observes. “I see my- For his tireless efforts, Peterson Of course, even DJs need a break by BBC Radio 6 DJ Gilles self as a curator though, especial- received this year’s AIM Indie from the beats and bops. “It’s V Peterson, and chances ly during my [Worldwide Music] Champion Award for pushing art- been important for me to have a are for the four artists you’ll Festival and when arranging the ists that are heard by audiophiles family outside of music,” he con- know there are 40 you won’t – playlists for my radio show.” and the adventurous alone. And tinues. “Apart from being a crazy but that won’t stop you tapping that’s the only trophy he needs. Arsenal fan, I tend to go to bed your foot. Any doubts as to his cultural (“I forgot [the ceremony] was on before 11pm most nights that reach should be dispelled by the and forgot to turn up to pick it I don’t work and always wake Musicians with names like Snarky presence of his curatorial skill to up,” Peterson humblebrags.) up at sunrise to go on big runs Puppy, Los Papines, Salaam pixilated carnage in the British around London. Those are my Remi and SCNTST – all of which This recognition comes years af- most happy moments!” have that right “combination of ter he was asked to leave his Jazz melody and the avant garde”, ‘These days the FM show for anti-war comments But while he’s with us, Peterson as Peterson puts it – make it on-air during the first Gulf War. will be on the late shift keep- through the screed, as the Radio DJ is the star most ing his ear out for those elusive 1 alumnus digs through archives “I was glad to make my views “Chinese beats” and other tracks from all corners of he earth. of the time and felt back then,” Peterson now buried in the Far East missing says. “Although, today I probably from his playlists. “Man, I’m still searching for those the bands are need to be more subtle about my Chinese beats that must exist views, as working on the BBC is a “There’s a great Mandarin ver- somewhere!” vows the 49-year- secondary’ big responsibility and my exper- sion of a Galliano track called old Londoner, who will continue tise is in music – not politics.” ‘Prince of Peace’ I once heard, his scour through our corner of in a hip-hop style” he says. “I’m the earth this month at Cicada. billion-dollar grossing Grand desperate to find a copy.” Theft Auto V, where players Peterson arrives in Beijing on can tune into radio station Readers, here’s your chance to his way through a five-date ‘Worldwide FM’ – a look absolutely cool in front of Asian tour by special request of nod to his interna- Gilles Peterson: He’s looking Cicacada’s well-connected own- tionally syndicated for the last track from pop diva ers. But that doesn’t mean he program – provid- Faye Wong’s 2005 release Faye agrees with writer PJ O’Rourke’s ing the chillwave Wong’s Story (Wang Fei de Gushi) dismissal of the region as “the and deep jazz-funk entitled ‘Qing Wu Ke Qi,’ per- continent that rhythm forgot.” soundtrack needed formed with the homoerotic HK Peterson has done more re- to run down strung- duo Softhard. It’s in Cantonese, search. out hos that owe you not Mandarin, and available at cash. your local pirate CD store. Gilles “All those funky exotic records – you’re welcome. out of Vietnam and Thailand are “The game’s creators heavy. [We] need more of those. used to come to my // rmB150 (advance) rmb200 (door). gilles And don’t get me started on clubs in London back Peterson will curate his night of eclectic all the killer music that exists in in the day,” recalls gyrating at cicada ultralounge on november Japan,” he says, getting started. Peterson. Such famous 7, 9pm-3am. n4-33 Tai Koo li, 11 sanlitun club nights as ‘Talkin’ Loud, rd, chaoyang district, 北京朝阳区三 Peterson has built his brand Sayin’ Somethin,’’ at the old 里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区n4- for digging deeper than wider, Dingwalls in Camden, 33 邮编100027(6418 9898; www. building his expertise first in acid helped define the cicadaultralounge.com) jazz, then funk, jazz and Cuban 80s UK under- music, while his fine-tuned ear ground. has helped him scout the likes of Erykah Badu, Roni Size and Jamiroquoi on his three record labels.

“Things have changed since I started in the 80s,” Peterson reflects; back then, he DJ’d on pirate radio before landing his first BBC gig at Radio London’s Mad on Jazz.

“My first comp and re- mixes didn’t even have my name credited, but these days the DJ is the star most of the time and the bands are sec-

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 35 arts fmil pa l ce your bets… th e race is one for the winner of the Golden Horses BY Andrew Chin

his month, Taipei will be transformed into version of the Oscars, past Best Film winners ceremony on November 23, visitors can take ad- the center of Chinese-language cinema, have included Infernal Affairs – the basis for vantage of a variety of ticket options throughout T as the Golden Horse Film Festival gets Martin Scorsese’s Academy Award-winning The the 20-day event, ranging from single screenings underway. First held in 1962, the event will cel- Departed – and Stephen Chow’s cult comedy (TWD230) to Super Ticket Packages of eight ebrate its 50th anniversary this year. classic Kung Fu Hustle. screenings (TWD1,499).

Running from November 8 to 28, the centerpiece Chairing the Golden Horse jury this time is two- Here are this year’s nominees for the coveted will be the Golden Horse Awards, one of Asia’s time Academy Award-winning director Ang Lee. top prize – and our odds on their leaving with a premier film prizes. Often dubbed the Chinese While winners will be announced at a glitzy shiny equine trophy.

A Touch of Sin (1-2) The Grandmaster (4-1) Drug War (6-1) 天注定一代宗师師毒战 (Chinese Mainland, Jia Zhangke) (Hong Kong/Chinese Mainland, Wong Kar-wai) (Chinese Mainland-Hong Kong, Johnnie To)

This Pulp Fiction- Wong Kar-wai Johnnie To is the style crime film is one of Hong Hong Kong’s film follows four Kong’s most ac- industry’s king of stories across claimed auteurs, crime, but until China, from bus- venerated for this, he’d never shot tling Guangzhou films like In the and set an action to rural Shanxi. Mood for Love film entirely on the Inspired by real, and 2646. This mainland. Police violent events year, he went Captain Zhang (Sun ripped from the straight-up mar- Honglei) has just headlines, direc- tial arts with this captured drug lord tor Jia Zhangke long-delayed bio- Timmy Choi (Louis stylizes these graphical block- Koo). To avoid the modern scenarios buster, centering death penalty, Choi like classic wuxia on the wing chun starts ratting out his films. Nominated for the Palme d’Or at the grandmaster, Ip Man. Three-time Golden Horse former associates. However, as police officers 2013 Cannes Film Festival, this already-con- Best Actor winner Tony Leung Chiu-Wai co- begin to raid a drug ring, Zhang begins to grow troversial film marks a departure for Jia, who stars with Zhang Ziyi (Crouching Tiger, Hidden suspicious of Choi’s motives. Unlike To’s other previously made the solemn 2006 film Still Dragon), tracing Ip Man’s journey from 1930s films, like Election and Breaking News, Drug War Life, documenting the slow destruction of a Foshan to Hong Kong during the Second Sino- is less action packed, focusing instead on the ten- small town by the Yangtze River due to the Japanese War, where he eventually develops sion generated from Zhang and Choi’s cat-and- construction of the Three Gorges Dam. wing chun and trains Bruce Lee. mouse game.

Stray Dogs (3-1) Ilo Ilo (8-1) 郊游爸妈不在家 (Taiwan, Tsai Ming Liang) (Singapore, Chen Tien-wan)

Voted by the Guardian as one of A fixture on Singaporean TV, the 20 best directors in the world, Chen Tien-wan steps into the Tsai Ming-liang is a celebrated director’s chair for his acclaimed Second New Wave director in first film, Ilo Ilo. Developed as Taiwan. He won the Golden Horse part of the Golden Horse Project for Best Film and Best Director for Promotion program, the film Vive L’Amour in 1994 and hopes to received a 15-minute standing repeat that this year. ovation following its screening at the Cannes Film Festival and His latest tragicomic masterpiece picked up the Camera d’Or prize – which includes a full 14-minute for best debut feature. It follows static shot – follows a homeless the relationship between a trou- father of two working as a ‘human blemaker (Koh Jia Ler) and his billboard’ for luxury apartments, maid (Angela Bayani) from the scratching out a meager life in Philippine province of Iloilo, and modern Taipei. Things mysteriously is set in Singapore during the change after the father becomes 1997 Asian financial crisis. hypnotized by a mural at the abandoned building where they squat. // for more information on the golden horse awards, visit www.goldenhorse.org.tw

36 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com interview h’ e s A LITTLE BIT BARKING A few bites with Comedian Marcus Brigstocke BY Ned Kelly

f you like your comedians to It was an honor. Richard is a have a bit of a background, sincere and sentimental man who I Marcus Brigstocke is your has written more excellent man. He was expelled from comedy than most of us could school for smashing up the manage in three lifetimes. groundsman’s car and shoplift- ing to fuel his excessive appetite And who is the best comedian – one that eventually saw him you’ve personally worked with? enter rehab for food addiction. There are so many – right now, I He progressed from a 13-year- think Andrew Maxwell is brilliant. old glue sniffer to an opiate- He’s fearless and clever and rude. abusing Goth before working as Comedy evolves and those who a podium dancer in the night- are successful are always talented clubs of London then taking the and always work very hard to get world of comedy by storm, with there. Monty Python tours and film roles to follow. We caught up Any comedians or any type of with him ahead of his stand-up comedy you can’t stand? shows in Beijing… The function of satire is to afflict the comfortable and comfort the Seems you had something of a afflicted – so I dislike those who colorful youth. Do you think that go for weak and undeserving wildness informed your future targets. career? song of theirs? Oh yes, I have no doubt that ‘Kermit is a more Probably ‘Every Sperm is Sacred’ You also dislike David Blaine. A various expulsions and rehab all although ‘I Like Chinese’ may be lot. Why? helped immeasurably. I’d recom- excellent human more apt for this tour… Because he’s a git and a wizard mend wildness to anyone… and a mumbling chump. His atti- than anyone else You successfully claimed the tude to performance irritates me. And you worked as a podium publishing rights for DJ Dee He’s not without skill but to what dancer at Ministry of Sound? I can think of and Kline’s track ‘I Don’t Smoke’ after end? Ultimately ‘magic’ kind of I was employed – part time – as a he sampled a comedy sketch of pisses me off. podium dancer in several clubs in he’s a frog’ yours without your knowledge. London in the early 90s. Trying to How much did that net you? And finally, best one-liner? demonstrate some of what I used It was a No.11 chart smash and It’s not a one-liner but… Did you to do in those days led to me them shape your style? I think I made nearly GBP2,000 hear about the inflatable child rupturing my Achilles tendon at The comedy I liked the most (and from it. at the inflatable school who was this year’s Edinburgh Festival… It still do) is not really that similar to sent to see the inflatable head- was a good time. Early 90s dance the style I have. I grew up on The Nice. But how did you feel ap- master for bringing in a pin? He music was excellent. Dangerous Muppet Show, still my favorite TV pearing on a song with [British said “You’ve let me down, you’ve but excellent. show of all time. It’s hilarious. comedian and big ol’ racist] Jim let yourself down but worst of all, Davidson? you’ve let the school down.” So when did you first realize you So which was your favorite Jim Davidson does not appear on wanted to be a comedian? Muppet? that song and there are no // The Punchline comedy club present It took me a while to connect my It’s too hard to choose… circumstances under which I marcus Brigstocke live in Beijing with enthusiasm for watching comedy Ultimately it has to be Kermit, but would be willing to work with imran yusuf and andre Vincent supporting. with the idea that I could do it Animal is a close second. Kermit him. rmB250 (advance until nov 14), rmB290 myself. A good friend booked my is a more excellent human than (door). nov 19 and 20, 8pm. Paddy‘s first-ever gig for me. I may never anyone else I can think of – and Is that not his mock Jamaican- sanlitun, 2/f Tongli studio, sanlitun have done any of it without him. he’s a frog. accented character ‘Chalky Beixiaojie, chaoyang district 朝阳区三里屯 White?’ 北小街同里大厦二层, 朝阳区 (139 0639 Any big names you worked with And your favorite comedian? It’s not Jim Davidson. It’s me. It 0437; [email protected] coming through? It’s too hard to pin to one person. was sampled from a comedy I was very lucky to be asked to Peter Sellers was a genius comic sketch I wrote, in which I deliber- support Bill Bailey on tour quite actor. Robin Williams Live at the ately did a Chalky White voice early in my career. What a bril- Met is a definitively brilliant stand because it served the character I liantly funny man he is. I used to up show. Blackadder is the best was playing: an unhinged airline win! share Edinburgh flats with Ross sitcom I’ve ever seen. Blazing pilot who was almost certainly Noble – that was fun. We used Saddles is a near-perfect comedy dangerous. It’s not Davidson. It’s We have a pair of tickets to a giant slingshot to fire water- film. PeterC ook at his finest was me. I’ll do the voice for you when the Marcus Brigstock show balloons into the center of a untouchably sharp. Monty Python we meet in Beijing… It’s uncanny. for each night to give away. courtyard filled with media types changed everything for all of us… Email prizes@urbanatomy. all talking media crap. I could go on and on. We stand corrected. You were in com with your best one-liner the film Love Actually though, to win these hot seats! And what about comedians you You toured with the Monty right? What was it like to work watched growing up – any of Python musical Spamalot – best with Richard Curtis?

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 37 cover story PLANES, TRAINS & AUTOMOBILES CHINA’S INFRASTRUCTURE EXPLOSION – Boom or bust? By the that's team

n the winter of 1847, a full Air travel was the exclusive pre- It was under President Hu that in the city of Wenzhou, killing 29-years before China’s first serve of the military and the country’s transport network 40 and injuring 192. The I railroad came into service, bicycles were a luxury. underwent its greatest period disaster led to the break-up British engineer and spearhead of transformation, with the con- of the once all-powerful rail of the industrial age, Isambard Yet today, over 97 percent of struction of the country’s first ministry, and broad sweeping Kingdom Brunel, stood amid the country is connected by high-speed rail network, endless changes within the transport the wreckage of a collapsed road; planes carry millions of new highways linking remote sector. Yet still the country bridge that had resulted in the passengers each day; and the powered on – laying new deaths of five rail passengers rail network is the envy of the track, building new bridges and declared himself, “opposed world. ‘Prior to the and constructing new roads. to the laying down of rules or conditions to be observed in Oh, and the biggest selling founding of the China today is a country acces- the construction of bridges, lest bicycle is electric. sible and connected as never the progress of improvement People’s Republic before; its people more mobile tomorrow be embarrassed or Given such great and far reach- and its economy more buoyant. shackled by the prejudices or ering change, it’s no surprise in 1949, the The wider social changes that rors of today.” to learn that under the last continue to reshape the country administration, eight of the country had less are delivered in no small part It was the type of bold and un- top nine political posts were via the wonder of its transport compromising statement that held by engineers, including than 21,800 system. has come to typify attitudes to former President Hu Jintao, transport in modern-day China. who was trained as a hydraulic kilometers of rail Over the next few pages, we engineer, and former Premier examine this modern miracle Over the last 50 years, China’s Wen Jiabao, who was a geo- lines’ and try to put some of those transport infrastructure has mechanical engineer. enormous numbers and statis- expanded at a rate that Brunel tics into some form of recog- himself would have found It is often noted, that while western villages to the booming nizable human context. From hard to comprehend. Prior to America’s lawyerly politicians metropolises of the eastern coast the country’s booming copycat the founding of the People’s led the country into economic and the construction of scores of car industry to its favorite in- Republic in 1949, the country crisis in 2008, China’s engineer new provincial airports. flight meals; from new airport had less than 21,800 kilometers statesmen paved their way out projects to the future of the of rail lines, while all but a few of financial difficulty building But as Brunel could attest, such high-speed rail network, it’s cities and towns outside of the roads, airports and rail networks ambition is not without its con- all here. So sit back, nerd out country’s major economic cent- by means of a huge govern- sequences and, in July 2011, and marvel at the sheer size of ers were connected by road. ment-backed stimulus plan. two high-speed trains collided that… traffic jam.

350,000,000 2.8 Number of trips by flight, projected for the end of 2013. trillion 320,000,000 Number of trips by flight in 2012. Total amount in RMB invested in the railway sector during the government's 2011-2015 railway development program. 106,000,000 3,300,000 The number of cars on Chinese roads in 2011. The total length of China's rural roads in kilometers by the end of 2009.

38 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com S pEEdy does it how the high-speed network will transform china

than RMB64 million over nearly 25 years.

This was followed by an an- nouncement of plans to spend RMB687 billion on railway infrastructure every year until 2020.

Last January, the final links of the 2,078 kilometers east-west route between Shanghai and Chengdu became operational, connecting China’s primary economic center with the country’s largest western hub in just 20 hours – normal trains take twice as long.

In July, the Nanjing-Hangzhou- Ningbo HSR stretching across East China’s Yangtze River Delta was officially opened to the public, cutting travel time between Nanjing and Hangzhou from 140 minutes to 70 minutes. More links will be added in the etter, faster, larger: a day, it’s no surprise this transit months and years ahead. although opened to option has become so popular, ‘By early 2014, the passengers only six particularly as domestic flights Soon, finding more invest- years ago, China’s have some of the worst air traf- number of high- ments for such plans will no high-speed rail net- fic delays in the world (see p.43). longer be a simple domestic Bwork (HSR) now boasts the speed rail travelers matter. During a recent state world’s largest grid, with more However, the impact that bullet visit to Thailand, Premier Li than 9,800 kilometers of track trains have had on China’s trans- is expected to Keqiang opened an exhibit on and a goal of hitting 16,000 port system extends beyond China’s high-speed rail system kilometers by 2020. mere railway and plane show- surpass 54 million’ in Bangkok to promote an HSR downs. It extends to productiv- linking China, Thailand and More convenient than flying – ity, relocation and new markets. Singapore in less than 12 hours which also remains prohibitively urbanization by moving rural – an attempt to seek business expensive for many – HSR has This huge infrastructure net- families residing in the path of for his country’s technology, but dramatically reshaped the way work has lessened the gap the oncoming tracks to newly also a sign of China’s growing China moves. Since its com- between companies and mil- built residential centers and dis- influence in many South-East mencement in 2007, the HSR lions of potential customers and tricts centered around HSR train Asian affairs. has carried nearly twice as many employees. When you can travel stations, creating brand-new passengers each month as the from Beijing to Guangzhou (the suburban clusters amid former To be sure, China’s high-speed country’s domestic airlines. world’s longest line at 2,298 backwaters. trains are heading to far, far kilometers) in eight hours, visit- away destinations – and there In response, aviation companies ing factories and meeting clients However, such breakneck seems to be no stopping the have moved to halt services on goes from being a once-a- growth has come at a signifi- locomotion. routes covering less than 500 month trip to a weekly routine. cant human cost. High-profile kilometers when HSR links are issues regarding safety, as well available, and have reduced It has also reduced shipping as numerous cases of system- flights on routes that share a costs and travel times, as well wide corruption in the bidding line over distances of 500-750 as increasing business along process, have cast a shadow of kilometers. routes blessed with an HSR. distrust. The deadly Wenzhou crash, which killed 40 people With passenger traffic steadily For instance, research centers in and injured 192 in 2011, did growing at 28 percent a year, by cities like Beijing and Shenzhen nothing to assuage fears. early 2014 the number of HSR are now able to send employees travelers is expected to surpass to factories in locations with The government has since 1,300,000 the 54 million people a month lower wages, like Changsha, in moved to shore up public confi- The number of passengers that take who board domestic flights in order for them to oversee their dence, handing former Railways high-speed trains daily. the US, the world’s largest product design and develop- Minister Liu Zhijun a suspended domestic air market. ment. death sentence over charges of corruption and abuse of power, 486,000,000 Stitching the country together China’s rail revolution has also after he was found to have The number of passengers that took a through nearly 2,000 train trips helped to speed the rate of accepted bribes totaling more high-speed train in 2011.

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 39 cover story F uLL steam ahead! Im pORTANT stops in Chinese rail history

Giddy-up Made by China

While more than 643 kilometers of track was built between 1895 and 1903, the Imperial Peking- First is worst Kalgan Railway (aka the Jingbao Railway) was the first system Completed in November 1881, designed and constructed with- the Kaiping Tramway marked In July 1876, the 15-kilometer-long Wusong railway was illegally out foreign capital or assistance. the beginning of China’s official constructed and put into operation by British merchants, much Yale educated and ambitious, railway network, created to to the Qing government’s chagrin. Connecting Shanghai and the Jeme Tien Yow (Zhan Tianyou) transport valuable coal from the port of Wusong (today’s Baoshan district), this railway was only in was appointed chief engineer mountainous Kaiping mines to operation for 16 months; after buying the rights, the state after he completed a train line for Tangshan. Stretching 9.7 kilom- immediately dismantled both trains and tracks and then shipped the Empress Dowager Cixi (who eters, the government specifi- the pieces to Taiwan. needed to visit ancestral tombs cally decreed that the train be outside Beijing). His railway, mule-drawn, as they were afraid finished in 1909, stretched from noise and vibrations would the capital through harsh and disturb a cluster of royal ances- mountainous terrain towards the tral tombs. Convinced this was important trade city of Kalgan wrong, the project’s engineer-in- (Zhangjiakou, Hebei Province). To chief, Claude W. Kinder, secretly get there, Jeme used an had a steam engine constructed innovative switchback system to using an old George Stephenson get the train up a steep gradient blueprint and spare parts found at Badaling. He is still referred to on site. Dubbed “The Chinese by many today as the Father of Rocket,” officials changed their China’s railways. tune after taking a ride in the piecemeal coach, and Kinder was allowed to extend his rail- Death and rebirth road by a further 65 kilometers (and was later named an honorary Chinese official). By the The Second Sino-Japanese War early 1900s, this line stretched is thought to have destroyed through Beijing and Shenyang over 23,000 kilometers of rail over a span of 800 kilometers. It track. What little was left was is the oldest track in China still all but decimated during the in use today. Chinese civil war. By 1948, the To Russia… no love country was left with just 8,000 kilometers of track. When the PRC was finally founded in 1949, The China Eastern Railway is perhaps one of the most contentious a railway revival was launched routes in Chinese history. When construction began in July of 1896, and, by the end of that year, it was meant to connect the Siberian city of Chita to Vladivostok via tracks were back to a length of Harbin and, six years later, become an extension of the newly minted 22,000 kilometers. By the end of Trans-Siberian Railroad, which ran to St. Petersburg. Its trans-national 2012, the total network length course through resource-rich areas made it an important doorway asset. topped 98,000 kilometers with The Bolsheviks, the White Army, the Americans, the Japanese, the Qing, 19,431 trains, 622,284 freight the Communists and a Kuomingtang warlord have all laid claim to it. It cars and 52,130 passenger eventually passed back into Chinese hands in 1952. coaches running along on top.

40 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com FAST FACTS TRAIN TALES ABOUT CHINA’S More than just a method of transport TRAINS Sometimes, trains are as much about the journey as they are the destination...

2.26 billion Amount of coal in metric tons transported in 2012.

104,400,000 Amount of grain High-speed romance Free passage Stationary scan-dal transported in metric tons in 2012.

On October 8, 21 couples Perhaps train-bound weddings In need of a nap, a massively 98,000 Total network length in suited up and hopped on a really are the way to go – inebriated man in Zhejiang kilometers as of 2012. high-speed train heading from especially when you can’t afford entered a train station and Hangzhou to Ningbo. Organized the trip home, as happened found the perfect sleeping spot: 280,000 Total length in kilom- by the Hangzhou Tourism to 20-something Zhong Min. a baggage inspection machine. eters projected by 2050. Administration and billed “The Spotted hiding under a seat by Much to the surprise of the West Lake Romance,” the event a train conductor, surnamed Liu, station’s security staff, this 1.3 billion Number of trips turned out to be nothing like Zhong admitted he had only drowsy chap clambered onto taken on a train in 2007. expected. Instead of proclaim- RMB2 in his pocket – RMB12.5 the conveyor belt and slipped ing their affections around a less than he needed – because into a deep, dark, drunken picturesque lake, the lovebirds he had attended 11 weddings stupor, not stirring when he be- 1.86 billion found themselves transferred over a week-long break. His gan moving towards the X-ray. Number of trips taken on a train in to the third compartment on RMB4,000 monthly salary, plus Imagine the shock the staffers 2011. train D377 – classy. The newly- a borrowed RMB1,000 from his received when the man’s innards weds and long-married amores parents, had all gone towards popped up on screen. Once 2.04 billion Number of trips did, however, receive roses and hongbaos for his lucky friends- through, the blotto gent got up taken on a train projected for the end gifts. Seems like the Hangzhou in-love. Kind-hearted Liu took and walked off. of 2013. Tourism Administration has pity on the selfless chap and found a new way to “speed up” funded his ride home. 116.6 billon The cost in RMB of double happiness. the Wuhan-to-Guangzhou high speed railway. 8159.37 The distance in kilometers of a newly proposed high-speed railway route linking Beijing to London, to be traveled in two days.

I think I can Loco for Louis Honk-honk 17 The number of countries the Chinese government must negotiate Remember when you were a kid After making its debut at a While heading to catch their with to build this railway. and thought you had built the Parisian fashion show entitled hot wheels at the main railway best track for your toy car? Well, The Art of Travel, the Louis station in Jilin last year, passers- 2,298 The length in kilometers of you failed… by a significant Vuitton Express took to the by received a steamy shock. the world’s longest high-speed railway margin. On November 24, 2012, tracks and chugged its way to Hired to repair a giant screen (from Beijing to Guangzhou). the Science and Technology Shanghai via Siberia, a trip that outside the station, a mainte- Museum in Shanghai built the took 12 days and was docu- nance worker surnamed Yuan 19,431 Number of trains in opera- world’s longest plastic toy train mented by famed photographer booted up his laptop to enjoy tion. track – starring none other than Todd Selby. In town for the reo- illegal softcore Jin Ping Mei Thomas the Tank Engine. The pening of the brand’s enlarged adaptation Sex and Chopsticks: track used 13,769 pieces of track and refurbished flagship store, The Forbidden Legend while he and measured 2,888 meters the train proved quite a specta- ‘worked’ – unaware that his – that’s about six times taller cle when, filled with models, it screen was wired to the outdoor than Shanghai’s Oriental Pearl was rolled onto a set erected on screen. After 10 minutes, pan- Tower. However, the record the Bund. Afterwards, post-show icked officials called – whereup- 1Number of steam engines in was smashed this year by some attendees were invited to hop on he immediately disconnected operation. upstart Danish Lego enthusi- onboard. Who knew that a his computer and threw the disc asts, whose track maxed out at caboose could be so cool? out the window. Case closed! 4,000.25 meters. Choo-choo!

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 41 cover story FAST FACTS ABOUT CHINA’S C lEAREd for Takeoff C hINA’s airport construction boom FLIGHTS 178 Number of aviation companies.

399 Number of airports and ver- tipads. espite becoming 1,610 Number of jets registered for general aviation. D the world’s second-largest economy, China 10,000 remains a relative Number of jets expected to register by 2020. backwater in terms of its airport 2,290 Number of regular civil aviation routes in 2011. infrastructure. To put it in perspective, the 443 Number of international routes in 2011. US has in the region of 17,000 airports. 1,847 Number of domestic routes al consultant to the extension of Yet building booms can also be in 2011. China, which last Baiyun International Airport. a huge bane to provincial ad- year recorded an all ministrations and operators. 3,191 Number of civil aircraft in 2011. Some of the more interesting time high of over developments from the list in- Of the mainland’s 183 airports, 1,601 Number of Airbus aircraft in 296 million domestic clude Dalian’s building of a 20.9 143 lose money, data from the 2011. square kilometer man-made Civil Aviation Administration of passenger journeys, island for a new airport – the China shows. Statistics imply 700 Number of Boeing 737 aircraft currently boasts just largest of its kind in the world. that more than 60 of the 80 new in 2011. In Hubei Province, the city of airports envisioned in the latest 183. Even Brazil and Shennongjia has razed five co- five-year plan to 2015 will end 15 Number of Boeing 767 aircraft in South Africa have lossal mountains to make way up in debt. 2011. for its new hub. more. If the government decides 357 Number of Airbus A320 aircraft Also on the list is Guangzhou’s to build an airport relatively in 2011. It’s perhaps unsurprising, then, Baiyun International Airport, a close to an already existing that the central government is hub in the process of a major one – Shanghai’s Hongqiao 163 Number of puddle-jumpers in keen to boost its investment in extension. It’s an airport that International Airport and 2011. the aviation industry. Earlier this already handles more than 45 Pudong International Airport, year, Li Jiaxiang, director of the million passengers per year; for example – airlines fear they 178 Number of regular civil airports Civil Aviation Administration of however the one terminal it has will be forced to operate out of opened in 2011. China, announced that China was designed to handle 35 mil- both airports, thereby increasing aims to build 82 new airports lion at a push. costs and reducing flexibility. and expand 101 existing ones 3,490,571 during the current five-year With that kind of traffic airports Air congestion has been an im- Length in kilometers of regular civil plan, the 12th, which ends in can of course make a lot of portant driving force in the push aviation routes in 2011. 2015. money – back in 2011, they for more airports. With around earned RMB4.6 billion according half of Chinese airspace reserved 1,494,387 Length in kilometers of Beijing has said they hope this to Li Jiaxiang. solely for the military, and flights regular international routes in 2011. airport boom will attract invest- departing from Chinese airports ment in the logistics, high-tech- “When it comes to actually being the most frequently de- 1,996,184 Length in kilometers of nology and finance sectors – the building them, aside from the layed in the world, there is a regular domestic routes in 2011. sort of businesses the capital government, it’s the airline car- pressing need for more routes is encouraging as it seeks to riers that have a large part in to become available. 502,731 Flying time in hours of move the economy away from the whole construction. They’ll general aviation in 2011. an over-reliance on smoke-stack be the ones paying for it. For an This, it is hoped, will ease the industries. Many of the new airport like Baiyun International, current inefficiency, which is facilities will be feeder airports, China Southern will have had a increasingly leading to violent connecting central and west- huge say,” explains Potterfield. confrontations between passen- ern regions with the wealthier gers and airline staff, as regu- 4,000 coastal cities. The expansion, now underway, larly reported in the local and New pilots needed in the next five years will involve adding a second international press. in China. “Cities that were too small or ill- terminal; a move that will en- equipped ten or 20 years to ac- able the airport to process and Regardless as to whether or commodate an airport are now accommodate more than the not they’re a viable investment, ready to not just house domes- 80 million passengers per year, one thing is for certain – China’s tic but international ones also,” expected by 2020. airports are, for now, a booming says Eric Potterfield, architectur- industry.

42 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com p utting a new face on the friendly skies Pie in the Sky Recruitment policies accused of sexism, ageism – you name it A review of in- flight meals

ntil recently, becoming a then, but companies also high- flight attendant in China lighted senior attendants’ expe- U was a breeze. You just rience and their obvious distinc- needed to be young (aged 18- tion of having a more soothing 25), tall (minimum 1.75 meters nature when interacting with for men, 1.65 meters for women) passengers (having mellowed and educated (at least a college with age, presumably). graduate). Oh, and don’t forget attractive (well-proportioned Being tall and pretty was once a Dragon Air body and a good-looking face) must for any aspiring attendant, careers, English Haagen-Daaz ice-cream for a snack? and unmarried (no strings at- but now even relatively plain- skills are essential, but educa- Count us in. Dragon are also gener- tached?) Understandable, then, looking men and women can tional requirements have shifted ous with the hot meals, offering two that Chinese airlines have made be hired (although it’s unclear too, meaning a college diploma options – even on short, three-hour some minor readjustments to whether fugliness is accept- isn’t needed – just a simple pass flights. Maybe the altitude affected their recruitment policies. able.) And the more vertically on the job-specific qualification our taste buds but, for once, we chose challenged out there should exam. So your next complimen- the seafood (usually a no-no) and But to be honest, the stress is on take comfort in the fact that the tary gin and tonic might not actually enjoyed it. minor. Recruitment limits have height restriction for women be served by a Fang Bingbing been extended to the grand old has plummeted – by three lookalike... but you can bet your China Southern age of 30 for most companies, centimeters! – to 1.62 meters. bottom dollar the service you’re We are offering prizes to anyone who with Spring Airlines even going (A whopping 30 million nanom- getting is first class all the way can guess the mystery meat in their so far as to hire some coffin- eters.) Take that, discrimination. (unless, of course, you’re sitting “salads.” It’d be like playing wheel of dodging 45 year olds. No in economy). (mis)fortune. Aside from that, entrees accusations of ageism here As with many international on this Southern belle are usually edible, especially on transcontinental Waiting in Vain flights – high praise indeed. China Eastern Airlines W orld’s worst for departures Seriously, how can food with so much sodium taste of nothing? We guess left on time, a dubious honor get half of their flights out on time. it’s better than actual nothing (see that sees it ranked bottom of Spring Airlines, below), but most of the world’s 35 major inter- Perhaps unsurprisingly, the meals are just texture and calo- national airports in terms of Shanghai Pudong and Hongqiao ries. According to website ranters, it’s punctuality. It was a similar tale airports have since been granted not worth paying extra money for first in Shanghai’s Pudong Airport, exemption from various domes- class either. You still get blah... where just 28.72 percent of tic air traffic restrictions; wheth- flights managed to depart in a er this includes freedom to Hainan Airlines timely fashion – and that’s with show a more varied selection of Points for serving up Chinese classics; t’s official: Beijing is the a 15-minute grace period. in-flight movies remains unclear. unfortunately, the fried noodles don’t world’s most-delayed inter- After all, five hours sat on the taste all that good after being shrink- I national airport. In July this A separate ranking of Asian runway can really begin to drag wrapped and blasted with heat. For year, FlightStats reported that hubs showed that many provin- when the only picture available shorter trips, expect a couple of dry only 18.3 percent of planes cial Chinese airports, including is a badly dubbed Cantonese rolls paired with mustard-green pick- departing from China’s capital Guangzhou, could only manage to version of Disney’s Aladdin. les – not exactly what we’d call the breakfast of champions. I nternational Airport face-off Percentage of on-time departures, July 2013 Air China source: flightstats We weren’t going to say anything too nasty – and you do get options Atlanta (ATL) 68.94 % that are usually consumable – which Beijing (PEK) 18.30% we were at peace with. Until we read about passengers getting food Hong Kong (HKG) 63.66% poisoning last month, after they un- 38.02% wittingly ate expired beef baozi, and Istanbul (IST) then having to deal with unapologetic London (LHR) 71.46 % staff while taking turns to puke and defecate in the bathrooms. It was at Los Angeles (LAX) 75.57 % this point that we decided never to New York (JFK) 65.86% eat plane food again. Paris (CDG) 58.74 % Spring Airlines Rome (FCO) 59.48% You get nothing! Nothing, we say! Shanghai (PVG) 28.72% (Unless you pay. That Singapore (SIN) 77.89% bottle of water will be RMB10, please.) Tokyo (HND) 95.04%

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 43 cover story Bthes in S owroom A uTO space architect on what drives designs

Queen hanging everywhere. It has to be unique, while at the same time borrowing from the past.”

But sometimes it’s less about the showroom and more about merely appealing to a customer’s inner VIP. Such is the case with Beijing’s Audi City, whose construction anySPACE oversaw last year.

As the world’s second-largest luxury auto maker, Audi has become entrenched as the brand of choice for officials and ast month, the annual How, then, to create an aura “We really found that interest- wannabes alike – the Imperial Forbes China Rich List put of exclusivity, when even a ing,” says Berg. “Most guys in TIE Fighter of Chinese bureau- L the number of billionaires Bentley is considered common? China buy a car with their wives cracy. Berg explains that, unlike in China at a record 168, According to German architect or mistresses, not their buddies Morgan, Audi didn’t get creative surpassing the previous high Simon Berg of design firm anyS- – this guides [our] design. It has with their template for show- of 113 from last year. It’s little PACE, it’s all in the subtle art of to appeal to women.” rooms as they have in places wonder, then, that the world’s showroom design. such as London or Dubai. hyper-luxury car manufactures The statistic comes from an are setting up shop in China in Berg and fellow anySPACE de- NBC/Universal Poll in 2009, “They were so sure of them- record numbers. From Rolls- signers were recently commis- which also states that women selves in the China market, they Royce to Lamborghini, luxury sioned to design the new flag- influence a whopping 85 per- didn’t need to change the cars are a regular sight in traffic ship Morgan Motor dealership cent of all car purchases – that’s formula,” says Berg. jams throughout the country. A in Beijing. The British bespoke worth more than USD80 billion report from McKinsey consultan- carmaker’s retro roadsters ooze annually. That includes VIP seating areas cy in March, ranked China as the exclusivity; starting at over that feature wall-to-wall video world’s second-largest market RMB777,000, only eight were Berg explains despite their screens, where customers can for “premium” cars, estimating bought in China last year. “low” budget of RMB2 million, play with car options and create that the country will surpass the team wanted to produce a digital mock up that appears America by 2020 to become the “Morgan cars are a perfect fit for a refined and tasteful environ- larger than life, with a Vegas- world’s biggest consumer of China, where it’s all about hav- ment. “We used exposed ceil- style wave of their arms. luxury vehicles. ing something that no one else ings to create an industrial look has,” says Berg. that conveys a bygone era of “Reinforcing the VIP experience But in a market where the total handmade products, and soft is very, very important here,” fortune of the 400 richest peo- However, their showroom lighting and fabrics that convey explains Berg. “Fabrics, leather, ple now exceeds USD570 billion, design proposal was altered British tradition without relying color – Chinese clients like to luxury car manufacturers are after Morgan Motor Beijing on tacky stereotypes,” says Berg. customize every option, and beginning to feel the squeeze: investor Jim James stressed part of that experience is help- premium products are not so one important statistic – 60 “You can’t just display all that ing put an emphasis on choice. premium when they’re selling percent of vehicles are pur- fake British stuff that you find all Customers need to feel that they by the bucket load. chased by women. over China, like pictures of the are unique and in control.”

T he top selling cars (China Association of Automobile Manufacturers, Jan-Mar 2013) U nder the hood 1C SAI (Shanghai Auto) Wuling Hong Guang 129,800 (units sold) 2 Volkswagen Lavida 121,500 n 2009 China became the Chinese consumers opt for more world’s largest producer and expensive foreign-owned rivals. 3 Ford Focus 96,200 consumer of passenger cars Although China’s favorite car is I 4 Great Wall Haval 89,700 and light trucks. Yet despite the the domestically owned Wuling milestone, Chinese auto mak- Hong Guang, the overall market 5 Chevrolet Sail 77,800 ers are having a tough time share of Chinese brands shrunk 6 Buick Excelle 74,700 competing with international from about 30 percent in 2009 brands and joint ventures such to less than 26 percent by the 7 Volkswagen Sagitar 68,800 as Volkswagen and GM. As end of last year. This year’s top 8 Volkswagen Passat 66,500 China’s domestic market con- ten selling cars feature just two tinues to boom, homegrown domestic brands, alongside four 9 Volkswagen Jetta 60,100 brands are finding themselves kinds of VW, three US brands 10 Hyundai Accent/Verna 55,600 increasingly marginalized as and one Hyundai.

44 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com G rANd Theft Autos C oUNTERFEIT cars and ‘stolen’ designs

C hina never ceases to amaze us with its endless run of knock-offs and impersonations. Here’s a run down of the country’s leading copycat motor vehicles

Riich (瑞麒 Ruiqi) Shu anghuan B YD Auto (比亚迪 FAWu Gro p (第一汽车集 Wuhu, Anhui Auto (双环汽车 Biyadi) Shenzhen, 团 Di Yi Qi Che Jituan) Province VS. Bentley Shuanghuan Qi Che) Guangdong vs. Changchun, Jilin Shijiazhuang, Hebei Mercedes vs. Volkswagen vs. Smart Fortwo Steering away from copycats Shuanghuan are a Shijiazhuang- isn’t easy, even if you enter into based company who’ve been a joint partnership with a do- wheeling out quality but afford- mestic Chinese manufacturer, a able motors since 1988. Despite requirement for foreign compa- the success they've had at least nies looking to get a slice of the six lawsuits filed against their huge market here. designs, mostly from European Starting perhaps with most obvi- manufacturers like BMW and Volkswagen teamed up with ous, Riich is a company whose Mercedes. A quick glance at First Automotive Works (FAW), name just oozes class – but their Noble model (top) and the selling 2.26 million cars in China whose logo exudes something Smart Fortwo (bottom), and it's in 2011, 27 percent of their total different. (The Bentley logo may- not hard to see why parent com- worldwide sales, according to be?) They paid the price for their pany Daimler filed a case claim- Business Insider. lack of originality, as poor sales ing the design was copied. meant the brand was discontin- It’s not just limited to brands But they should have been pay- ued earlier this year by parent Shuanghuan argue that a look you’ve never heard of. A Reuters ing closer attention to those company Chery Motors. cannot be patented, maintain- investigation in 2011 uncovered FAW mechanics poking around. ing (truthfully) that the mechan- Wikileaks cables between the In August 2012, German news- As you probably guessed from ics under the hood of their US and its Guangdong consulate paper Handelsblatt reported the logo and name, Riich was Noble are not similar to the implying BYD (thought to stand FAW were replicating the VW intended as a luxury car brand. Smartcar. That approach saw for “Build Your Dreams”), one Polo and Golf’s transmission One of their flagship motors, them win the 2009 lawsuit, al- of China’s most recognizable designs for use 4x4 style X1 model, has a lowing them to vehicle brands, was deliberately in vehicles modest 1.3-liter and cost just distribute in stealing other companies’ de- made under US$8,000 – perhaps not suited Greece, where signs and undercutting rivals. the FAW brand to a millionaire looking to wow. a population One American diplomat, – separate We like it because it looks like a crippled by made aware of their prac- from the co-venture. panda. the economic tices, joked, “BYD seeks to VW launched crisis might see build your dreams – based a probe, but the estimated on someone else’s designs.” has since gone USD5,000 saved quiet, perhaps over the orig- A quick look at their S8 model not wanting to ruffle too inal model and it’s not hard to see where many feathers given their suc- a smarter they’ve taken inspiration from. cessful sales. option.

C hinese automobile exports: the countries buying Chinese cars T he top 10 domestic car manufacturers, 2012 (General Administration of Customs data automotive export volume, 2012) Units produced Algeria 149,800 1 SAIC Shanghai Auto 4,461,400 Iraq 90,100 2 Dongfeng 3,078,500 Russia 89,700 3 FAW 2,645,900 Iran 77,800 4 Chang’an 1,956,400 Chile 62,700 5 BAW Beijing Auto 1,691,100 Peru 37,200 6 GAC Guangzhou Auto 712,200 Egypt 34,600 7 Brilliance Auto 638,000 Venezuela 32,800 8 Great Wall Motors 624,600 Colombia 31,300 9 Chery 563,300 Ukraine 30,600 10 Geely 491,400

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 45 cover story fast facts E vlECTRIC A enues about china’s Wlli petrol power ever come to an end? auto industry

ou may not have noticed, but transport in China has Y 225,000,000 The number of mo- undergone a quiet revolution tor vehicles on Chinese roads in 2011. in recent years. Silent, speedy 235,000,000 The number of and increasingly affordable, licensed drivers in 2011. electric-powered bicycles have become the preferred method of transportation for millions who wrote his doctoral thesis on electric transport in China, ‘Analysts once 1956 of ordinary Chinese, trans- explains: “The big problems The year China produced its first com- forming its cities and creating facing China are essentially talked excitedly mercial car (in 1958 the USA had 57 the same as those faced by million cars on its roads). havoc in bike lanes across the the United States. Neither gov- about the country. ernment has yet created the 5,200 The number of cars China necessary urban and highway possibility of produced in 1985. infrastructure needed to sup- But while there are estimated port electric cars. For example, China leading 19,271,800 The number of motor to be as many as 120 million there’s no country-wide charg- vehicles produced in China in 2012, an electric bikes currently in use ing infrastructure, or standard- the way in the increase of 4.63 percent from 2011. nationwide, electric cars remain ized battery technology. something of a rarity. This is nascent global despite the best efforts of the “How do you travel from point central government, who last A, to point B, to point C, if you electric car year announced ambitious plans can only charge your car at 74.1% to see 500,000 electric cars on point A because there’s no sta- industry’ The percentage of the country’s freight traf- the nation’s roads by 2015 and tion at point B, and Point C uses fic that is carried by road. five million by 2020. incompatible technology?” up to RMB60,000 in subsidies 99.4 The percentage of towns and vil- So what’s gone wrong? There’s also the issue of toward purchasing lages connected by road throughout China. price. Currently electric an all-electric car. Domestic analysts once talked cars are on average However, even after 4,693 The elevation in meters of excitedly about the possibility 30 percent more these deductions, the China-Pakistan Karakoram Highway, of China leading the way in the expensive than consumers will still the world’s highest paved international nascent global electric car indus- fuel cars. be required to pay road. try. Last year, however, Chinese “Essentially, around RMB140,000 consumers purchased exactly mass urbaniza- – far higher than the 210,812 the number of road ac- 11,375 electric cars, according tion means price of a new petrol- cidents in 2011 involving injury or loss to official figures. Small fry com- that more and more powered family car. of life. pared to the 19 or so million Chinese are now living in new cars entering onto Chinese cities, predominately on the out- China’s leading electric car 435 The number of traffic police who roads each year. skirts where rents are cheaper,” manufacturer, BYD, sold just were killed on the job between 2003 says Weinert. “However, a con- 1,700 electric cars and 700 elec- and 2010. Jonathan Weinert, a US-based siderable number of these peo- tric buses last year, less than electric transportation expert, ple are unable to afford a regu- one percent of the company’s lar fuel car, let alone an electric total car sales. The leading car, and so with the public trans- model, the e6, currently retails 970,000 Oe n hell of a port infrastructure unable to for RMB370,000, at the pricier The number of Beijing residents who keep up, they buy electric bikes. end of the car market. “Most signed up for one of the 20,282 license traffic jam Hence their overwhelming people who have that type plates available to the public by March popularity. Unless something of money probably wouldn’t of 2012. dramatic happens, electric cars want to spend it on a car with will never be able to compete. a top speed of 100mph,” says Price will always win out.” Weinert. “They’d rather go with something fast and sexy.” That’s Realizing this, in September two concepts that even the The number20 of days drivers spent in a the government announced Chinese government may find traffic jam on the Beijing-Tibet highway more incentives, including hard to deliver. in August 2010. 1/47.9 The odds the Global Times newspaper put on actually getting a license plate in Beijing.

46 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com L iCENSE to drive you crazy C oULd you pass the test?

riving licenses, like 1. The driver may drive 7. A motorized vehicle driver a) Slow passing passports, tend to be a motorized vehicle who drives after drinking alco- b) No slow passing D universally recognized. ______. hol is subject to the temporary c) Fast passing That is, unless you visit one of a) After drinking alcohol detention of the driving license d) Jammed section the world’s last five remaining b) When he suffers from a dis- for ______and also a fine nations that refuse to accept ease that impedes safe driving of RMB200 to RMB500. 12. The hand signal of the foreign-issued driving licenses. c) When he is exhausted a) 12 months traffic police in the picture is d) After drinking tea b) 6 months ______. The group – Bermuda, Burundi, c) 3-6 months Iraq, Nigeria and China – are 2. When pedestrians are cross- d) 1-3 months not particularly known for their ing a crosswalk, the motorized road-safety standards. In fact, vehicle should ______. 8. The annual publicity day Nigeria and Iraq are ranked 7th a) Stop and yield for “No Violation of Traffic and 9th respectively for traffic b) Bypass Regulations, No Traffic Accident fatality rates – while China aver- c) Honk continuously and pass & Road Traffic Safety” of ages about 60,000 traffic-related d) Speed up in advance and pass Shanghai is: deaths per year. a). January 1 3. When a running vehicle sud- b). May 25 Evidently, obtaining a new denly falls into water, the driver c). March 15 license in one of these five should ______to escape. d). September 15 countries is for your own safety, a) Immediately open the door rather than anyone else’s. and jump out of the vehicle 9. If a motorized vehicle driver b) Open the door and swim out has illegally installed siren and Fortunately you won’t need to after the vehicle stabilizes in marker light, the traffic control go through the nightmarish water department of the public se- ordeal of passing another practi- c) Use feet to smash the window curity organ should force him cal test to gain access to China’s and swim out after the vehicle to remove them, confiscate a) A signal for pulling over congested roads – simply score stabilizes in water them and impose a fine of b) A signal for slowing down at least 90 percent in a fiend- d) Close the window and make ______. c) An auxiliary signal for stop- ish written theory-test, based telephone calls for help a) 100 yuan ~ 200 yuan ping on perplexing Chinese road b) 200 yuan ~ 500 yuan d) A signal for turning right laws (oh, and get your original 4. When there many wounded c) 200 yuan ~ 2,000 yuan license translated and have a persons, those who should be d) More than 2,000 yuan 13. The main feature of pedes- medical examination too). sent to hospital last are the trians participating in road traf- persons… 10. The sign in the picture fic is ______. Before this year, the questions a) Suffering cervical vertebra means ______. a) They move slowly were taken from a bank of damage b) The like to get together and 1,500, which could be found in b).Suffering massive haemor- look on their entirety online, meaning a rhage c) They are not stable few hours spent trawling the list c) Suffering breathing difficulty d) They walk around at will and and memorizing the tricky ones d) Whose intestines and veins can easily change directions would guarantee a pass. Since are exposed January, however, the question 14. When another driver asks bank has changed, and until 5. When a motorized vehicle directions while driving, the very recently was not available breaks down on an expressway, driver should ______. to preview at all. the warning sign should be a) Ignore it placed ______away in b) Answer with patience Online forums are littered with the coming direction. c) Find an excuse to reject comments from frustrated driv- a) 30m d) Answer for a pay ers, some of whom have taken b) 50m a) Level crossing 50m ahead the new test dozens of times c) 100m b) Level crossing 100m ahead 15. When having a contradic- and are still unable to get that d) 150m c) Level crossing 150m ahead tion or dispute with other peo- magic 90 percent pass mark, d) Level crossing 500m ahead ple, the driver should ______. complaining that Chinglish 6. A motorized vehicle driver a) Let off his emotions when translations were making some who has violated the provi- 11. The sign in the picture driving questions ambiguous and hard sions on road traffic of the law means ______. b) Drive with emotions to answer. and regulations on road traffic c) Drive in a rage safety is subject to a warning or d) Calm down before driving We’ve handpicked 15 of the ______. again more choice questions from a) A fine of MR B20 to RMB200 the original test, so you can see b) A fine of MR B200 to

for yourself what we’re talking RMB1,000

about. There are a couple of c) A fine of MR B500 to 15d 14b;

simple ones to warm up with – RMB2,000 13d; 12d; 11a; 10c; 9c; 8b; 7d; then it gets markedly more chal- d) Revocation of the driving 6a; 5d; 4a; 3c; 2a; 1d; answers: lenging… license

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 47 eat / drink the grapevine

Nibbles Six of the best: Thanksgiving dinners

VILLAGE CAFÉ THE FILLING STATION FLAMME Looks like we’ll never get The Opposite House's cafe has a The Filling station are living up Flamme know it's all about to review Jack D’s muscles huge range of different cuts of to their name with an all you can your nearest and dearest at in Sanlitun – the provoca- poultry and salmon to pre-order eat Thanksgiving carvery and Thanksgiving, so treat yours to tive posters of naked, oiled cooked or oven ready. free-flow mulled wine and cider. their three-course family set. men in Tongli have vanished. // Order 4 days before pick-up, 50% deposit re- // Nov 28, 4pm, RMB160/person (kids 80), // Nov 28, RMB398 for three people (bottle Seems there’s only room for quired on order, raw turkey RMB68/kg , cooked RMB60 free-ﬂow mulled wine and cider, kids of house wine half price at RMB99), (Flamme one gay bar in this 22-million RMB138/kg (to order: 6410 5210, or visit crafts 4pm-7pm, no delivery (8470 3821) Sanlitun: 6417 8608; Flamme Indigo Mall: strong city. www.theoppositehouse.com) 8420 0270)

Similarly, The Full English in Wangjing has gone for a Burton but will return soon, somewhere in Lido.

Quiet openings, though rather than closings, are the theme of this month’s col- umn. Up in Wudaoying, bare walls and wood appear to offer industrial “Chi-c” to the new Chinese restaurant being AMERICAN STEAK PETER’S TEX MEX LILY’S DINER built there, while the Conrad, Head to Peter's on Thanksgiving Lily's are offering a traditional our favorite new hotel that AND EGGS day for their herb roasted turkey meal at both branches – turkey resembles Swiss cheese, plans Drop in for a set dinner or call for with sides like candied yams, with all the trimmings and home to become a nightlife and delivery of turkey, ham and sides. lemon-garlic steamed broccoli delivery offered for lazy bums. dining hotspot are growing // Nov 28, RMB135/person (under8s RMB75); and pumpkin pie for afters. // Nov 28, RMB119/person; turkey delivery with the addition of the forth- turkey delivery RMB69-75/kg, sides RMB30/ // Nov 28, RMB186/person, 9-2 Jiangtai Xilu, RMB95/kg, sides RMB20; Shuangjing branch comong openings of Whisky person), call Jiangoumen (6592 8088), Shunyi Lido, Chaoyang District 朝阳区将台西路9-2 (6592 5548), Sihui branch (6556 3817) Bridge (hooray!) and bar-club (8046 6648) 号 (6435 3509) Vivid (poledancers!).

Pinotage have opened a Head to head deli in their Shunyi branch (why not Sanlitun, God?) On PARIS BAGUETTE vs BREADTALK Gongti Beilu, near Bodhi, the Happy Beer House optimisti- The challenge: Asian-owned faux-French bakery Italian pizza cally hopes to share its pijiu passion with passing drunks, while on the main Sanlitun Full name: 'Chicken Pizza' – no frills – or snooty French Full name: 'Pizza'. BreadTalk don't waste time on fancy strip, a bizarre joint calling pretension with the naming here. names. itself Burger and Lobster is Get it: Paris Baguette. Get it: BreadTalk. purporting to sell a Chinese Presentation: A thinner Roman-style crust, and tradi- Presentation: A piccolo mini-pizza, with a Neapolitan crust lobster and steak combo for tional by-the-slice square profile. A generous slice of bell deeper than the Vatican vaults. I didn't even notice the RMB88. We’ll brave that deal pepper encloses three olives. mini-hot dog slices when I picked it off the tray – great next month. Tasting Notes: Bellisimo. A wonderfully crisp but doughy food always surprises. base suggests use of a wood-fired oven, and unless my Tasting Notes: A deliciously zingy tomato sauce cuts And the final whistle blowing tastebuds are very much mistaken those are Tuscan black through what is undoubtedly mozzarella di bufala, but on sports bar Cuju has proved olives. where-oh-where is the oregano and cracked black pepper? premature: a last-minute deal Price: RMB8 Price: RMB9 sees the hutong favorite staying on for the foreseeable. Verdict: Both slices fulfil the purpose of making you less hungry, and are both suitably greasy and doughy Where’s the rum? RFH to ensure that hunger won't be returning anytime soon. Paris Baguette's is the more palatable.

48 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com Edited by will philipps [email protected]

A twist of Poppy Seeds Forget MSG, add morphine to taste Say what?

Food and Drug Administration (FDA) officials in Guangdong “The way Chinese people checked 70 restaurants last year, and found two that were using cook contributes a lot to sachets containing poppy seed powder to give their food an extra the index of PM2.5. I hope morphine kick. Both restaurants were fined RMB50,000 and given a citizens will do more to formal warning. The Yancheng Evening News has reported that two restaurants in Since May it has been illegal to cooperate with the Guangzhou have been found to add poppy powder to food regard- be lacing their food with addictive less of amount. Poppy seeds can government and poppy seed powder in an attempt cause a false positive for opiates in to keep customers coming back drug testing – and can make your make the for more. hot pot dangerously moreish. air clean.” No Reservations Crapital Eats: Paulaner Brauhaus

“Hey, you diaosi of a waiter, how dare you only accept credit-card payments of a few thousand kuai a time! Zhao Humin, director of Foreign Affairs for the Beijing “And can I please get some more Municipal Government, said smoke from such sources as bar- free bread? It’s about all I can becue stands must share the blame for Beijing’s toxic smog eat in here. Alcohol-free beer, problem. Coke mixed with Sprite, plus “Paulaner Brauhaus: Dim lights, sausages drowned in pickles – The CCTV report was criticized by Chinese web users, who musty smell and broken copper and it all tastes like crap.” pointed out that flatulence was surely just as key an issue. But decorations – to be honest it’s state media had an answer – a report by the Chinese Academy less like a Bavarian drinking hall, – Translated from Weibo's 'Beijing's Dumbass of Science that claims cooking fumes are responsible for up to more like on Old Peking hotpot Restaurant Reviews' @北京傻逼餐馆预警及 20 percent of the particulate matter in Beijing’s air. Go figure. place. 点评 See Listings for details

goffee wars Netizens rally in support of Starbucks after CCTV criticizes their high prices

After recent jibes at US mega- its Guomao premises, due to the corps Apple and Google, area's stratospheric rent costs. CCTV has now set its sights on Starbucks, criticizing the high Latté-loving netizens took to price of their hot drinks in China Weibo in support of Starbucks, in a 20-minute primetime exposé. dismissing CCTV’s attack as merely attempts to stir up anti- CCTV said Starbucks drinks and foreign sentiment, criticizing the snacks were more expensive in state broadcaster’s double stand- China than in London, Chicago ards on foreign brands and state and Mumbai. A 354 milliliter owned ones. cup of latte coffee costs RMB27 coffee beans being a prime Chinese customers are more ac- (US$4.4) in China – compared to example. But rent was cited by customed than Americans to sit Despite the high cost, Starbucks’ RMB24.25 in London, RMB19.98 Starbucks as being the major in with their drinks rather than popularity doesn't seem to be in Chicago, RMB14.6 in Mumbai. force behind the high costs. taking away, requiring more showing any signs of cooling. funds for larger branches and ap- They recently opened their The Seattle-based company de- A Wall Street Journal report pealing interior designs. 1,000th store in China, while our fended its prices, claiming that showed that 26 percent of its very own Sanlitun Tai Koo Li South operating costs were higher in revenue goes to rent, with 18 per- In July, Beijing’s first ever is now home to a 24-hour branch, China – hefty taxes on imported cent for profit. Starbucks argued Starbucks was forced to vacate which even hosts live music.

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 49 eat / drink New restaurants O’Steak steak Well-done is no longer all that rare BY Stephen George

reads “grain-fed Australian,” RMB138-338), we tried all four, and while we’re not averse and frankly they were all mas- to biting into an over-priced, sive. Once you’ve got your size vacuum-sealed cut of import down, you can pick two accom- beef, we do think that if you're panying sauces, from a selec- going to live in China, you re- tion that currently features ally ought to at least try and eat béarnaise, blue cheese, mus- food from China. tard, mushroom and pepper.

The menu at O’Steak claims And if that wasn’t enough, that all the meat served is every steak comes with a “freshly delivered, locally- very generous helping of sourced steak, chosen by sev- chunky fries and a solid house eral French chefs for superior salad. It’s basically your classic tastes and quality.” Parisian bistro fare, delivered with a certain Beijing charm. The upshot being that the meat espite its Irish sound- So while the ‘O’ may be some- on offer isn’t going to result We can really see O’Steak taking name, O’Steak does what disingenuous, the remain- in you skipping payment on ing off this winter, excellent D not serve Guinness by der of the name turns out to be a an overdue water bill. It’s also food at very reasonable prices, the pint. It’s more of a wine by fairly accurate summation of what rather good. Very good, in fact. served in warm, homely non- the bottle type of joint – not this place is all about. We’re not But then again, if you’re going pretentious surroundings. Now, surprising really, considering saying there aren’t vegetarian op- to name your restaurant after a about that lack of Guinness… it’s owned and managed by the tions (there are), but there’s really particular type of food, you bet- same biker gang of bearded only one reason to come here. ter make sure it’s on point. //Daily 12pm-12am. 55-7 Xingfucun Gallic gourmands behind two of Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸福村 our favorite French hangouts, Steak in China comes in a vari- O’Steak offers four sizes of 中路55-7 (8448 8250) Café de la Poste and Salud. ety of packaging, most of which steak (ranging in price from Jing Yaa Tang Double A+ for The Opposite House’s new duck house BY Will Philipps

whites of the kitchen staff, who In fact, Jing Yaa Tang’s menu take center stage at the front. mostly consists of Chinese sta- ples you’ve probably seen be- Duck is what Jing Yaa Tang fore, but with with a consistent specializes in. Whose duck is excellence you may have encoun- the best remains a popular lo- tered less often. The lack of pho- cal debate and these guys just tos on the menu forces you to dialed it up a notch (RMB238 for pay attention to the wording and a whole duck with all the sides). titles like a Double-Boiled Black The flesh is rich – full, dark, not Chicken Consommé (RMB108) dry – but the wafer-thin skin and Stuffed Eight Treasure just lacked that juicy, oily ooze Sticky Rice Chicken Wings with needed to give the contents of Cordycep Mushrooms and Conch your translucent pancake some (RMB98) live up to their billing. In real substance. fact, almost anything you order

Photo by Noemi Cassanelli Photo here will satisfy and even delight. But the menu goes all over, and ing Yaa Tang hangs out in Elegant, Room” – with that con- isn’t afraid to modernize some There we were thinking it was the basement of über-chic spicuous double ‘a’, fits right in. of the most canonical Chinese all style over substance – it may J Sanlitun boutique hotel The dishes. I was reminded how certainly look the part, but Jing Opposite House. No misty mountainous scrolls good a hongshao rou can be Yaa Tang’s got the fire in its oven here. We’ve got black and gold with their Superior Braised Pork needed to make it a serious con- The residence is exclusive (The in abundance. An eye for design in Brown Sauce (RMB98) – now tender in the eternal duck fight. Killers and Justin Bieber stayed casts its gaze everywhere, with there’s a delicious layer of fat there last month) and it’s all a layout that draws inspira- under the skin and it won’t offer // Daily 12-10:30pm, B1/F, The Opposite about design (the swimming tion from a traditional Chinese any more resistance than a soggy House, 11 Sanlitun Bei Lu, Chaoyang District pool resembles a nightclub). So theatre – a bullpen of diners is breadstick (but considerably 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号楼瑜舍酒店 Jing Yaa Tang – meaning “Classic, overseen by the gleaming chef more flavor). B1楼 (6410 5230)

50 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com Caribeño We’re Havana bite to eat herE BY Will Philipps Photo by Noemi Cassanelli Photo

ack off bar street – there’s a new Mojito man in town. B Osmani Orestes Castilllo Iglesias – we'll just call him 'Os' for short – is the head chef and proprietor of Beijing’s only Cuban restaurant, Caribeño, which provides some much-needed Latin jazz to the drab China Overseas Plaza in the CBD.

Their take on Hemmingway’s (and half the foreign population’s) favorite tipple is made to the Cuban native’s own formula, and using only the finest Havana Club white rum (priced at a bargain RMB40). It strikes a fine balance between the Mojito’s sharpness (of the lime) and the sweetness (sugar), and brings out the flavor of the rum very discernible flavor. No point trying to compare this to a ten-kuai knock-off; this one’s got cojones.

As for Caribeno’s kitchen – this is a restaurant review, after all – we’ll start with our personal highlight, the Ropa Vieja (RMB78). It’s a typical Cuban dish, shredded beef served with onions and peppers in a tomato and red-wine creole sauce. It’s got a bold, juicy flavor, helped, we suspect, by an oh-so discernable splash of red wine. (We suspect chef Os is a man who likes a drop or two.) Our other main was the slightly dry Alibe Chicken (RMB68), although it did come on a bed of welcome creamy mash.

Next time we’ll go for the Cuban-style roasted pork, or just fill up on the wonderfully tangy ceviche, best scooped up with a handful of tor- tilla chips. The mains are massive, but don't neglect the sides – Fried Plantain (RMB18) and Yuca Fries (RMB22) make a welcome break from plain old chips and onion rings.

For dessert, we had to go for the Mojito Cake (RMB42), a lurid green minty cheesecake, but truth be told: You’re better off sticking with the highball version.

// Daily 11:30am-9:30pm, 1/F, China Overseas Plaza, 8 Guanghua Dongli, Chaoyang District 光 B1楼 (6410 5230) 华东里8号中海广场北楼1层 (5977 2789)

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 51 eat / drink New restaurants Shang Yuan Fang Roast duck by the temple of heaven – as beijing as it gets By Will Philipps

the exterior: an unremarkable, the start of the month) were gray, concrete box. It makes for deliciously juicy and highly rec- a nice surprise when you step ommended. You’ll need to go out of the elevator to be greeted all caveman and use your hands by immaculate waitresses with and an array of tools to prise matching smiles, qipao and them open (it took me the best hairstyles. part of 10 minutes to devour all of mine) but the returns merit The menu weighed somewhere the effort. in the region of half a kilo – always a good indicator that the Other dishes are a range of restaurant takes itself seriously. dependable Beijingers, but if But we went with their 4-6 guests are daring, go for the person set menu (RMB1,688; Pickled Jellyfish. It’s a hard dish

Photo by Noemi Cassanelli Photo there’s also an 8-10 man ban- to make look appetizing so quet on offer for RMB2,688) praise where it’s due for the hang Yuan Fang, which only time I make it down to the which includes a range of clas- multi-colored flashing lights that specializes in Huaiyang Temple of Heaven these days.) sics like Mandarin Fish, Sautéed sat in the dish that carried it. S cuisine (Jiangsu and Prawn Dumplings and Mashed Sure – it might look a bit tacky, South-Eastern China), along with The basement interior of Shang Tofu with Spinach. It also in- but that’s typical Chinese dining some classic kaoya, sits right Yuan Fang is classic Chinese cludes their roast duck, which in Beijing, and Shang Yuan Fang outside the Temple of Heaven’s faux-pulence – obtrusive jade might not compete with the is pretty much on (and in) the East Gate. and marble sculptures abound Quanjudes or Da Dongs of this money. with gold lining on pretty much world, but is nevertheless a reli- It’s the perfect place to dine anything that you could attach able crowd-pleaser. // Daily, 11am-2pm, 5-10pm, 80-1 Tiantan after a stroll in the park, par- gold-lining to. But it just about East Road, Dongcheng District 东城区天坛东 ticularly if friends and family are fits into the confines of tasteful, The crabs, however, (still in 路80-1号 (6716 2052) in town. (That seems to be the which certainly can’t be said for season if you’re reading this at Moka Bros Feeling good in the neighborhood By Marianna Cerini

quieter, and far more exciting in the Shrimp and Avocado Salad terms of ingredients. (RMB68) is a colorful and incredibly light mix of veggies in a spicy The menu, overseen by Alex dressing. Molina, is a hearty list of nourish- ing food and creative concoc- As for the Power Bowls, those on tions that makes you feel good a health kick will sure have a hard the moment you look at it: fruit time choosing among the appetiz- smoothies for the pious, freshly ing options, but we tried the Red tossed salads (RMB50-68), as well Rice Crunch and couldn’t recom- Photo by Noemi Cassanelli Photo as Power Bowls (RMB48-75) com- mend it enough. The generous ing with either rice or noodles dish has depth and heft, the red that cater to large appetites, and rice is moreish and the toppings are filling enough for a dinner well thought out; pleasing bites main. of avocado with intense rounds of chicken (add RMB18 for that) We started with a Black Bean cooked to fall-apart softness. ustic wood and repur- Dip (RMB25), a beautifully pre- posed materials, a clever Pomodoro sented starter with a vibrant zest. Moka Bros is proof that Beijing’s R modular design and feel- in Nali Patio, The Green Olive Tapenade with health food scene is waking up to good mottos like ‘You Rock!’ or and oh boy, Toasted Tomato Wrap (RMB18) new living – and we can’t but wel- ‘Wake Up, Kick Ass’ plastered what a difference it makes. is equally addictive, pungent yet come this new venture with our on bright tiled walls beckon delicate in its flavors. arms and appetites wide-open. diners into Moka Brothers. The Focusing on healthy eats and third venture by the team be- drinks, the café/restaurant serves A Tenderloin Steak and Avocado // Sun-Thu 11am-10:30pm, Fri/Sat 11am- hind Mosto and Modo Urban straightforward fare that feels Wrap (RB68) comes chock-full 11:30pm, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Deli, the enterprise has taken good going down; reminiscent of flavorsome beef while on the Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号那 over part of the defunct Ciro’s of Wagas or Element Fresh, but opposite side of the spectrum, 里花园南楼A-105号 (5208 6079)

52 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com New bars Glen Classic Whiskey in the Jar-o By Stephen George Photo by Noemi Cassanelli Photo

e’ve been trying to make our way out to Glen Classic – hidden away in the confines of Face Hotel – for some time, W but it’s not all that easy a place to stumble on. But then one senses that’s precisely the point. With a strict door policy requiring advanced reservations, a smart dress code and a minimum drinks spend of RMB200, this is not your average Beijing watering hole. Needless to say, whisky here does not come with a coke chaser.

The aim behind the concept, explains Japanese barman and Glen Classic creator Daiki Kanetaka, is to establish “a rarified setting for the appreciation of life’s finer things – such as quality whisky". Although that may sound pretentious to some, Glen Classic is in many ways refreshingly down-to-earth. The bar itself is about the size of a shipping container giving it a warm and intimate feel, while the interior – all carefully selected soft furnishings, low lighting and upholstered leather, is a million miles from the sort of garish Versailles-via-Las Vegas aesthetic commonly found within many upscale Chinese establishments. It’s dignified and confident with a distinct lack of ostentation. If it were a car, it would likely be something vintage and painted racing green.

“I don’t want rowdy groups of people here who want to be noisy,” says Kanetaka. “This is not a party bar – I want people to come in and have real conversations… or if they’re feeling contemplative, no conversation at all.” The clientele on the night we visited was made up of a surprisingly dispa- rate group of people – some alone, others in small groups of two-to-three. To the left of us, two young Japanese woman, visiting the capital for the weekend talked politics over several shots of 25-year Yamazaki. “Japanese whisky culture is very well established – it’s not unusual for young people in Tokyo to spend an evening in a whisky bar such as this,” explains Kanetaka. “I wanted to recreate something similar here in Beijing.”

Despite boasting perhaps Beijing’s most extensive whisky menu, Kanetaka instead encourages patrons to take a seat at the bar and tell him what they like or don’t like, as the case may be. A certified whisky expert, Kanetaka’s formidable knowledge coupled with a personable and laid-back manner makes ordering effortless: want a single malt Scotch with just a hint of sad- ness and lingering remorse? Or how about something optimistic, American and imbued with a certain deal-clenching can-do-spirit? He’s got you covered. And if you happen to be a connoisseur and can’t find what you’re looking for, Kanetaka will do his best to help you find it.

Having spent seven months visiting some of Scotland’s foremost distiller- ies, as well garnering several years experience working at some of Japan’s leading whisky bars including the legendary Star Bar in Ginza, Kanetaka has left nothing to chance. Glen Classic is as close an approximation to refined whisky perfection as you’re likely to find in Beijing.

// Mon-Sat, 7pm-2am, reservation required, minimum spend RMB200, Face Hotel Courtyard, 26 Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路东草园26号 (6551 6788)

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 53 eateat // drinkdrink SPECIAL FEATURE Cicada an ultra-dose of shanghai proves easy to swallow By Anthony Tao (ft. RFH)

The cocktail menu at Cicada is relatively small but that's actually a good thing – it means they focus on doing a few things very well, like the Smoky Havana (pictured and far right, bottom), and other concoctions

Tao: I knew things were going or a black light in a dark Alan Shanghai siren call, which no I’m confident recommending to go well at Cicada when I Moore graphic novel. rich d*ckhead can resist. I can this place to friends with the sat down and the man behind even picture, right now, some tagline, “Most interesting cock- the bar, Mark Tay, bespoke me Interestingly, Google appears to faux-suited Eurotwat vaguely tails in town,” caveat, “That 88 a smoky Old Fashioned that think an UltraLounge is “a series impressing a 24-year-old intern RMB can buy.” smelled of mesquite. of compilation CDs released by with his ability to order a bottle, Capitol Records, predominantly or something. No point wasting RFH: Yeah, lucky old 88. Oh, RFH: About an hour or two featuring music genres such as decent drinks on that asshole. and “As long as it’s not a later, and after an insanely exotica, space age pop, mambo, Right now, though, an early Shanghai night.” good chomp at next door’s television theme songs, and midweek evening, enjoying a Transit (Sichuan food done by lounge.” Smoky Havana (above, right) – Tao: Yes, we can all agree on foreigners; so no hogwash oil, it’s just perfect. that: F*ck Shanghai. rat meat or opium, alas), we RFH: I think Google’s onto both agreed - did we not? - that something. It’s the kind of Tao: Leave it to the Brit to let // Mon-Sat 6pm-late. 11 Sanlitun Rd, Cicada had some of the best place that makes me think of partygoers ruin a good party. Chaoyang District 北京朝阳区三里 cocktails in town. But how a successful series of CDs, all Don’t forget, Rob, we’re all 屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4- would they measure up on a called Back to Mine 7 or some- Eurotwats in the eye of some 33 邮编100027(6418 9898; www. club night? And what’s with thing, in which the third track other Eurotwat. (Well, I’m not, cicadaultralounge.com) this ‘UltraLounge’ sobriquet is named ‘Gebba Gebba Krunke being American.) Bottom line, bullsh*t? Ke Ashna Ge’ (12" Talvin Singh hi-core remix) by Butterboyz (ft. Tao: The music volume wasn’t MC Holla), and the cover fea- Behind these closed doors, something is happening... well... after 8pm, anyway grating, at least. A few drinks tures long-limbed, lissom ladies in, I suppose anyone would pouting from velvet sofas – be tempted to groove a little, cartoons you want to f*ck. especially in (presumably) suit and tie. I admit I only shrugged Personally, I don’t want to at the UltraLounge bit. It’s a spend too much time in places tacky marketing ploy, but hey, full of nubile pencil drawings marketers gotta eat, too. Also, I you can’t touch or it’s too get it. They're Daft Punk’s idea loud to talk to them anyway. I of a lounge. They’re a DJ-Kue- doubt they’d have much to say, remix-of-a-Kanye-single type of anyhoo. My point is, I’d enjoy lounge. They’re Supergirl, car- Cicada best when it’s not... I toonized as a zaftig pinup with suspect certain evenings might an exaggerated hourglass waist, attract... I mean, it has that

54 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com NEW BARS D&M Bar Domination or Masochism ? BY Liu Kai Photo by Noemi Cassanelli Photo

couple of years ago, there was a movement to portray Shuangjing as some kind of up-and-coming southern chal- A lenger to Sanlitun. Today, the bars that predicated that hype – The Brick, Grinders – are still there (under new management), but nothing else has changed: it’s still a place to have a drink, then go home. D&M Bar brings something different to this expat enclave – the Want more of that's BEIJING magazine? Japanese mixologist methods that have brought plaudits upon Apothecary and Twilight. In fact, the owners hail from both and Find our Miniblog they’ve gauged the scene well: rather than reproduce the Mohiki formula, D&M has absorbed some local atmosphere. There is comfortable seating up top for those who prefer a quiet night, while down below, a typically long bar offers 100s of bottles.

The selection is impressive – not quite Box Bar levels, but a welcome surprise. Scotch, rye and bourbon standards were all available, as were Japanese varieties, including Suntory’s Hibiki (a personal favorite, this smooth 21 year old can be enjoyed at RMB120 a pop).

Helpful as he was, our bartender that night spoke only Chinese – slightly odd, given that fine whisky appreciation is not a typical mainland drinking skill – which, for an expat in a Japanese whiskey bar, could be an issue. Still, he did the best he could and understood the English when taking cocktail orders (if you’re lucky, you’ll be served by one of the owners, who will happily quiz you on your preferred taste and prepare a bespoke drink according to your whim).

Our trip to the cocktail side was nearly a wash, however. I asked for a good variation on a gin Martini-style drink, and got a Vesper, which tasted like a Smirnoff Martini. Things improved considerably with a Manhattan, made with a nice Rittenhouse 50-proof rye and (if you understand Chinese) a short history of the drink. The menu itself is www.facebook.com/thatsbeijing extensive, the descriptions include glassware and covers all basic cat- egories (vodka, gin, rum, tequila) – if you stick to the classics, you’ll weibo.com/thatsbeijing get the very best D&M has to offer (most cost around RMB60). Find our Weibo & Facebook today to see the latest of Beijing events! D&M is comfortable and run by competent staff, but it still suffers the same problem as Shuangjing: it’s worth visiting only if you live there.

// Building 5, 1/F, 103 Shuanghuayuan Nanli, Guanghua North 1st , Chaoyang District (west of Melody KTV) 朝阳区光华北一街路北 – 双井双花园南里三区5 号楼1层103底商 (5602 5299; [email protected])

Buddying up: Phallic Geoduck and a turbot awkwardly share a tank November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 55 promotional feature Translating China P RC launches its biggest international literary prize BY karoline kan

awards. The organizers hope that the careful selection process will make the competition much more representative of quality and that, after the competition, the winners’ works will also be published abroad for readers to enjoy.

Mo Yan’s success abroad has been taken as a good example of how Chinese literature can be popular in other countries. And accurate and sympathetic translations, not just direct and word for word, that also consider the tastes of local readers, were no doubt an essential part of his works’ success.

“Although the Chinese language has the largest number of speakers, according to the Tribune’s related survey, the quality of translation of Chinese literature is still blocking its expanding oversea, especially in the US and in Europe,” Zhang Yanbin points out. “Because Chinese and Western language are so different, there is a high risk to publishing Chinese literature. The expense and energy it takes to publish and promote a good translated Chinese work is so much that it worries publishers a lot.”

This is the first step to finding good translators and further training them. “I think literary translation oseph Nye’s ‘soft power’ with quality translation,” according language. is the most difficult one of them theory has proved popu- to Zhang Yanbin, Chief of the thrid all, because literature consists of J lar in China, even as the bureau of IOSC, at September’s According to Shi Zhanjun, chief everything. Some terms are very government struggles to harness launch ceremony. editor of People’s Literature Chinese, and many things have its own. Among some of the publishing house, the selection their special, cultural background. powers the government wants to The International Translation process is very strict. Two require- That is the hard part, but also the strengthen, literature is regarded Competition will be China’s larg- ments are considered. First is most exciting part. Because it as one of the most important. est translation competition so the content, which should be a is hard, the good translators will far, held in conjunction with sev- “Chinese story with shared value”. stand out. That is the purpose of Improving translation levels is eral organizations, including the Second is the artistic side – com- the translation competition,” said regarded as an essential part China Publishing Group, Penguin ponents like structure, language, Huang Youyi, Secretary General of Chinese literature’s promo- Books, Hachette Book Group and plot and artistic ambitions are all of the Translators Association of tion abroad. To ensure this, the Egypt-China Culture Exchange important. Based on these stand- China (TAC). Information Office of the State Association as co-organizers. ards, 30 novels from writers who Council (IOSC) held the first have mostly won literary award And if that doesn’t moisten your “China International Translation From September 2 to February both domestically and abroad ink, consider the loot: first prize is Competition” in early September. 28, 2014, participants can submit were chosen. “The 30 novels are 5,000 Yankee dollars, second (two translated works of approved the essence of Chinese contem- available) is USD3,000 and there’s It’s not the first time that IOSC has short stories to the committee in porary literature and reflect the also a stack of books thrown in, held an event like this to realize five languages: English, French, creativity levels of Chinese litera- plus membership of the TAC. its goal. In 2006 and in 2009, the Russian, Spanish and Arabic. ture since Reform and Opening Promotion Plan of Chinese Books From March to April, the com- Up,” Shi told media. // Applicants should send work to the China and Translating and Publishing mittee will review all submissions International Translation Contest Committee, Books on Chinese Culture were and award outstanding ones. Besides Mo Yan, who won last 24 Baiwanzhuang Dajie, Xicheng District西 “aimed at promoting more The competition is open to both year’s Nobel Prize for Literature, 城区百万庄大街24号, 中国当代优秀作 Chinese books in foreign markets Chinese and foreign translators 27 others have won either the 品国际翻译大赛组委会 (6899 7177; for and providing foreign readers with willing to present contemporary Maodun or Luxun literary prizes, details, see www.china.com.cn/news/citc; more Chinese literature books Chinese literature in a foreign both top-level Chinese literary www.china.org.cn/arts/citc)

56 November 2012 // www.thatsmags.com Community

Hey, it was the 80s... It was a time where mullets roamed the Earth, listening to New Romantics on Sony Walkmans. Coke was cool and Eddie Murphy was funny. But if you thought China dodged this gilded age of crass taste, think again! Economic reform enabled all kinds of poor decisions, including awkward family photography. Courtrey of Weibo, relive the childhood memories...

In the name of the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost, I now Shanghai was her kind of town – Not so much Farewell My pronounce you totally rocking that cassock, little dude! and boy, you better believe it... Concubine, as ‘Hello, years of therapy’

“You were good, kid – real good. But as What the picture doesn’t long as I’m in town, you’ll always be sec- Amazingly, only one of these men reveal is that it was winter and ond best, see? ” grew up to be a cross-dressing she’d actually been frozen in that serial killer position for several hours

WANTED IN CONNECTION WITH A SERIES OF FASHION CRIMES

Name: Ting Ting Age: 7 Likes: Candy, Barbie, kittens Dislikes: Japanese New evidence emerges in the case of Whereabouts: Last seen doggy-paddling little Meng Zhu’s missing fox... towards the Diaoyou Islands

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 57 community Ed ucation: Featured promotion W orldly Matters Bu iLDING Well-Rounded, International Students By Tongfei Zhang

ne of the primary foun- academic record may be a weak- prove invaluable throughout dations for fostering er than required, but whose ‘An educational adult life. O children into strong, resume is filled with a variety of international citizens and lead- divergent activities. system isn’t worth An anonymous author once ers, is making sure that the child wrote, “An educational system receives a well-rounded, diverse At Etonkids, we offer a rich a great deal if isn’t worth a great deal if it education. This is forgotten by Extracurricular Program that teaches young people how to many parents, who focus pri- provides our students with the doesn’t teach make a living but doesn't teach marily on academic study. This opportunity to enroll in a variety them how to make a life.” It is particularly true of Chinese of dynamic and engaging spe- young people can’t be argued that parents parents, who hope that rigorous cial classes after school. Focused don’t want the best for their study will help their child gain in the areas of language, per- how to make a children – they do. access to overseas universities forming arts, science, music, later in life. art and sports, these classes life’ However, sometimes parents help children develop special forget that there are other, more However, something that is ei- skills not normally taught in the important things than pure ther unknown or ignored, is that classroom that ensure our stu- While not downplaying our fo- academics. Yes, that student is the majority of universities that dents become well-rounded in- cus on academic study, Etonkids being groomed for the future, admit international students are dividuals – the type of students seeks to build a broad, diverse but what the student’s parents not merely searching for aca- international schools, and later student base that will help de- must consider, is what kind of demic strength; they are actively universities want to enroll as velop students’ unique talents. future that student will have. hunting for students with a var- part of their student bodies. Language, performing arts, sci- ied background. These budding skills will prove ence, music, art, and sports are In addition, unlike most kinder- instrumental later on, when the not only If two students appear to have gartens in China, the majority same children are applying to in- creative an equal academic record, it is of our programs offer the ben- ternational universities abroad. and fun, often proficiency in extracurricu- efit of being taught in English Also, the development of one of but they lar activities such as athletics, by a native speaker, ensuring these skills, for example piano are also music, theatre, or arts that will that our students are con- playing or martial arts, at such the bed- be the deciding factor. In some stantly practicing their English- an early age, will install a sense rock of a cases, admission will even be language skills while immersed of discipline and accomplish- rich, fulfill- granted to the student whose in a bilingual environment. ment – key attributes that will ing life.

58 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com Health C hINA’s deadly disease OU R ReSIDENT expert’s advice on avoiding hepatitis By Dr. Eddie Cheung

epatitis is one of China’s nated by the Hepatitis A virus most common diseases, (HAV) or through close con- H yet it remains relatively tact. Fortunately, Hepatitis A underreported, with those effect- does not usually require treated often going undiagnosed. The ment, nor does it have serious word itself is derived from the consequences. Latin ‘hepar’ or ‘hepat’ meaning liver and ‘itis’ meaning inflamma- Hepatitis B is caused by the tion. Defined as inflammation of hepatitis B virus (HBV) and the liver, hepatitis can be caused is caused by sexual contact, by a variety of viruses, as well as contact with infected blood an excess of alcohol, fats, con- or other bodily fluids, or from genital defects and toxins. mother to child in utero. Shared needles are the most common Hepatitis can be acute or chronic, source of infection. Given the and it’s for that reason that every- current popularity of tattoos one, despite their perceived risk, and acupuncture, it is impera- should be tested. Testing is the tive that all needles used are best means of mitigating the wid- disposable. Hepatitis B is often er threat here in China. Through chronic, particularly if acquired routine screenings, we can vacci- early in life. Left untreated, nate those at risk, educate and in- hepatitis B often leads to liver form, and most importantly, help cirrhosis or liver cancer. It is the to stop the spread of the disease number one cause of liver can- or take appropriate actions if an cer in the world. infection is detected. Hepatitis C is caused by the hep- Hepatitis tends to exhibit few atitis C virus (HCV) and is caused symptoms, however, if left by the use of infected needles untreated, malaise, jaundice and direct contact with con- and enlargement of the liver taminated blood. Liver cirrhosis may occur. In extreme cases, and liver cancer often occurs in hepatitis may lead to cirrhosis of hepatitis C patients. the liver, liver cancer and even death. Fortunately, with early Hepatitis D, is caused by the detection, hepatitis is mostly hepatitis D virus (HDV) and only treatable and manageable. occurs in those already infected with hepatitis B. It is spread Major advances have been made through contaminated blood, in recent years; there are now sexual contact and infected new and innovative cost effective needles. medical treatments available for those diagnosed with hepatitis ‘The liver is the body’s largest vital Hepatitis E is similar to hepatitis and in need of immediate treat- A and is often caused by ingest- ment. The key is making sure pa- organ and is essential for survival’ ed water containing the hepa- tients are diagnosed early before titis E virus or through sexual symptoms appear. That way, the contact. This form of hepatitis is disease may be monitored and unwanted substances found in is more often chronic, meaning often acute. controlled so the patient may the blood. Most things that enter it is a medical condition the pa- lead a full and normal life. the human body eventually find tient needs to regularly see his For further potential life saving their way to the liver. Therefore, doctor for so that the disease information and management The liver is the body’s largest the choices we make in what we may be evaluated, monitored, of these silent killers, please vital organ and is essential for eat, drink and do will have either treated and managed to avoid consult with a qualified physi- survival. Located to the right of a positive or negative effect on further liver damage. cian or better yet, a liver special- the stomach, under the rib cage, this very important organ. ist (hepatologist). the liver has many very impor- As mentioned, hepatitis may tant functions and acts as the Currently, there are five com- also be caused by alcohol, // Eddie Cheung, M.D., Fellow of the body’s main factory, warehouse mon forms of known viral hepa- drugs, infections, obesity or American College of Gastroenterology and and detoxification site. titis. These are hepatitis A, B, some genetic disorders. Here’s the International Academy of Proctology, is C, D and E. However, the most a brief description of each form the Clinical Professor of Internal Medicine The liver produces bile, hor- commonly diagnosed forms of and what to look out for. and Gastroenterology/Hepatology at the mones, urea, proteins and hepatitis are hepatitis A, hepa- University of California at Davis, Honorary cholesterol. It stores vitamins, titis B and hepatitis C. Hepatitis Hepatitis A is a non-chronic Professor at the 302 Hospital of the PLA in minerals and sugars. The liver may be acute, meaning the form of the disease and is Beijing and the Director of Internal Medicine filters toxins from our body such disease lasts no more than six caused by eating or drink- and Gastroenterology/Hepatology at the as alcohol and other harmful and months. Unfortunately, hepatitis ing food or water contami- International Medical Center Beijing.

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 59 events pick of six art exhibitions

A Living Man Declared Dead and Other Chapters I-XVIII: Taryn Simon Until Jan 5. Ullens Center for Contemporary Art, 798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区尤伦斯当代艺术中心 (UCCA) ( [email protected], 5780 0200)

Photographers of Elegance: the Séeberger Brothers 1909- 1939 Nov 4 to Nov 30, Alliance francaise (Guangcai center), 18 Gongti Xilu, Guangcai Guojigongyu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体西路18号, 光彩国际公寓 (6553 2678 ext. 209 (en) / 207 (中文), culture.beijing@ afchine.org) // Bibliothèque nationale de France

Lasting Balance: “Responsible Drinking” Art Exhibition Nov 15 to Nov 17. Orange Hall, Taikooli Sanlitun, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯太古里橙色大厅

Satire: Qiu Zhijie Solo Exhibition Until Feb 23, 2014. Galleria Continua Beijing, 798 Art District, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号798艺术区(5978 9505, www.galleriacontinua.com)

Gallery at Hotel Eclat Beijing Ongoing, Eclat Hotel, 9 Dongdaqiao Zhu Wei Solo Exhibition Lu, Chaoyang Nov 3 to Nov 10. Today Art Museum, Bldg 4, District朝阳区 Pingguo Community, 32 Baiziwan Lu, Chaoyang 东大桥路9号 District朝阳区百子湾路32号苹果社区4号楼 www.eclatho- (5876 0600) www.todayartmuseum.com) tels.com)

60 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com Events are editors’ picks of the best activities and are not comprehensive. To list an event, email bjevents@ events urbanatomy.com. For some details, see Listings.

Nov 1-3 EAT&DRINK Poseidon and now has a documentary and book on the subject. //RMB50, RMB40 (members), 7.30pm. NIGHTLIFE The Bookworm, Courtyard 4, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 Gig: Indoor Rock Fest 南三里屯路4号院 (www.innbeijing.org Three days of an Ivy League crash 6586 9507) course in Chinese rock and metal. Day 1 (Indie): Namo, Finger Family, Resident A, NDB, New Perfume. Day 2 ART (Heavy Rock/Punk): Subs, Thin Man, Exhibition: ‘Martin Ferro Seen by His Lun Hui, Hang On The Box, Silver Ash. Latin-American Illustrators’ Day 3 (Metal): Sick Pupa, Ego Fall, Opening ceremony of an exhibition Nuclear Fusion G, Nine Treasures, AJK of original illustrations from different and Nower. editions of epic poem Martin Fierro, // RMB100 (RMB80 pre-sale, RMB220 sponsored by the Ministry of Culture of three-day pass) 8pm, MAO Livehouse, the Government of the City of Buenos (see Livehouse Listings) Aires. //Free, Exhibition Hall of the Cervantes NOV 1-15 Institute in Beijing, A1, Gongti Nanlu Chaoyang District朝阳区工体南路A1 (58 799 666; [email protected]) EAT/DRINK

Eat: Australia Beef NIGHTLIFE Sink your teeth into a Bindaree Angus Tomato Bush Burger, with its rich deep NOV 2 DJ: Gilles Peterson (UK) tomato herb flavor and be eligible to (see page XX) win a fabulous round trip for two from // RMB200 (150 presale) including 1 Beijing to Sydney, including a guided Tasting: Food & Wine Experience XVI drink, 10pm, Cicada Ultralounge, N4-33 tour of the Sanger Australia Cattle Hilton Beijing’s Food & Wine Experience celebrates its“Sweet sixteen” this Tai Koo Li Sanlitun North, 11 Sanlitun Farm. year with a full day of local and international wine tastings, accompanied by Lu, Chaoyang District,朝阳区三里屯路11 // Crowne Plaza Beijing Wangfujing. 48 delicacies from around the world. Interactive seminars on coffee, chocolate 号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 (6418 9818) Wangfujing Dajie, Dongcheng District and wine appreciations feature specialists from the food and beverage industry, 王府井大街48号5911 9999 www.crowne- plus there’ll be dozens of stands selling all manner of imported and domestic Nov 8-9 plaza.com foodstuffs for you to sample. Giveaways, snacks and plenty of free drinks guarantee foodie fun for all, and as the evening wears on, bargains can even be had NIGHTLIFE Nov 1 by the savvy haggler. // RMB190 (standard), RMB280 includes lunch or dinner, 11am-7pm (trade), 1-7pm Gig: Dong Dong Festival (Rock) (public). Hilton Beijing, 1 Dongfang Lu, Beidongsanhuan Lu, ChaoyangDistrict Music industry conference concludes NIGHTLIFE 朝阳区东三环北路东方路一号(5865 5152) daily with smorgasbords of global DJ: Mesak and Claws Costeau rock. On Day One catch futuristic blues-rockers St.LÔ (France) perform (Finland) delete 7pm-late. 167 Dagubei Lu, Heping The Bookworm, Courtyard 4, Nan Beijing’s Skweee spree continues as with experimental composer Francesco district 和平区大沽北路167号(022 5857 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District Tristano and local heartthrobs Nova these avant-garde dance DJs club you 5198) 朝阳区南三里屯路4号院 (www.innbei- to death. Fløøød and Vurado Bukoda Heart, while swiss electro rockers jing.org 6586 9507) Bonaparte close it out with local sup- support. NIGHTLIFE / RMB50, 9pm, DADA, 101Room, port from Carsick Cars and Steely Heart. B building, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Gig: Korpiklaani (Finland) Nov 6 Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街 //RMB180, (RMB130 pre-sale, RMB200 Traditional Finnish folk meets thrash two-day pass), 9pm. Yugongyishan 206号B栋101室 metal with a penchant for alcohol- NIGHTLIFE 愚公移山 (see listings) fueled party songs. Party: Midnight Masquerade //RMB300, RMB220 pre-sale, RMB580 Gig: FM3 Halloween continues with Singapore’s Buddha Machine inventors and cel- DJ: Dong Dong Festival (Electro) VIP, 8pm. Yugongyishan 愚公移山 (see Dada jumps on the Dong Dong DJ Aldrin amid glamorously gothic digs listings) ebrated sound artists Christiaan Virant and devilishly delicious drinks. and Zhang Jian make beautiful noise bandwagon with a night of some of Asia’s best bass music from DJ Dragon // No cover, 10pm, Cicada Ultralounge, DJ: Darius K & Trev D together. N4-33 Tai Koo Li Sanlitun North, 11 //RMB50, 9pm. Yugongyishan 愚公移山 (Bangkok), Red-I and Soul Flower Resident DJ Dodgy Yamamoto and lo- (Manila), Jase (Saigon), ChaCha and Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District,朝阳区 cal boys Darius K & Trev D take you to (see listings) 三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 Drunk Monk (Shanghai). On Day Two, the dark side of dance. catch live music sets from glitch techno (6418 9818) // No cover, 10pm, Cicada Ultralounge, Gig: Mixed bag o’ rocks Night of Brit-pop and dirty rock with producer Emika (Berlin) and synth psy- N4-33 Tai Koo Li Sanlitun North, 11 chos Teddy Boy Kill (New Delhi) Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District,朝阳区 The Truth, Li Yan, Pomegranate, Maisha NOV 2 and Bolan Zhuangkuo de Tonghua. // RMB50 10pm, DADA, 101Room, 三里屯路11号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 B building, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, (6418 9818) // RMB80 (RMB60 pre-sale, 8:30pm, EAT/DRINK MAO Livehouse, (see listings) Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街 206号B栋101室 (www.dongdong-event. Drink: Flair Opening Party NOV 4 com/festival/) Promising to meld “Shanghai’s cosmo- NOV 7 politan chic with Tianjin’s distinctive COMMUNITY COMMUNITY local character,” Flair, at the newly COMMUNITY opened Ritz Carlton, Tianjin offers an Talk: Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Comedy: Tom Rhodes at the Humor evening’s exploration of its extravagant Dao Talk: Poseidon, China’s Secret Salvage Section (with Des Bishop) collection of Champagne and whiskey. Dr. Sam Crane, author of Life, Liberty, of Britain’s Lost Submarine The Bookworm’s monthly Comedy A DJ, sushi, contemporary Southeast and the Pursuit of Dao: Ancient The story of a British submarine Club features MC Des Bishop, Turner Asian appetizers, and an opulent ci- Chinese Thought in Modern American that sank off the coast of China in Sparks and guests from the Beijing gar lounge should ensure a night of Life, talks about how and why ancient 1931, and was salvaged by China comedy scene. Tianjin’s most attractive night owls, strands of Confucianism and Daoism in the 1970s is told by the Beijinger //RMB120 (presale), RMB150 (door), with 2-4-1 Moet can be relevant to America today. Managing Editor Steven Schwankert, RMB100 (students), 8pm. The // RSVP (includes drink and canapés), //RMB50, RMB40 (members), 7.30pm. who spent six years looking for Bookworm, Courty ard 4, Nan Sanlitun

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 61 events

Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯路 Eat & DRINK Wangfujing Dongjie, Dongcheng 4号院 (www.innbeijing.org 6586 9507) District东城区王府井东街8号(5812 8817)

Nov 8 Nov 14

NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE

Gig: The Offenders (Italy) Gig: Dadado Huang Ska, Italian style by way of Berlin who Bedroom balladeer from Taiwan sings have toured with everyone from NOFX small and delicate acoustic songs for to The Descendents the perpetually heartbroken. //Free, 9pm. Hot Cat Club (see listings). //RMB120, RMB80(pre-sale), 8pm. Yugongyishan 愚公移山 (see listings) NOV 9 Nov 15 NIGHTLIFE Gig: Core in China 3 NIGHTLIFE Hardcore punch-up with local metal- men Four Five, S.U.S.D., Cat Kicks Dog, DJ: The Horses / Acid Pony Club Nower, Sweet Escape Plan, Tefira and Shanghai-based French crew Acid Pony Eternal Wings. Club let their latest live act of acid and // RMB80 (60 pre-sale), Mao Livehouse funk-drip gospel house out the stable. (See listings) // Free, 10pm, Dada, 101Room, B building, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B栋101室 NOV 10 Gig: Red Pirates COMMUNITY Balls-to-the-wall quartet put good times back in rock and roll. Wins on Talk: Architecture, Art & Books vocals. Nathalie Frankowski and Cruz Garcia //Free, 9pm. Hot Cat Club (see listings). explain the strategies and methods employed by the WAI Architecture Gig: Dark Moor (Spain) Think Tank to unleash the potential Symphonic power metal conquistadors of architecture and art by publishing from Madrid assault the capital with books capable of challenging discipli- odes inspired by Spanish history and nary boundaries. legend. //4pm, Reservations required. Capital M, //RMB300, RMB220 pre-sale, RMB580 3 Floor, 2 Qianmen Pedestrian Street, VIP, 8pm. Yugongyishan 愚公移山 (see Dongcheng district东城区前门步行街2 ongoing listings). 号(6702 2727, reservations@capital-m- beijing.com) Eat: Chef han at wu li xiang, NOV 16 NIGHTLIFE traders upper east hotel COMMUNITY Gig: Rock Revival Chef Han has plying his trade in kitchens across China for a full 23 years now, The spirit of the Sunset Strip is kept and he’s showing no signs of slowing down. It’s a culinary journey that’s taken Talk: The Future Ancients alive with night of 80s rock from Velvet him from Beijing, right down to Zhuhai on the south coast Luka Lesson is a Greek spoken word Highway, Never Before, Electric Lady, of Guangzhou, and then back up to the capital, and hip-hop artist, Australian Poetry Tractor and Long Haul. where he’s recently taken over as head chef at Slam champion 2011 and Melbourne // RMB60 (50 pre-sale), Mao Livehouse Wu Li Xiang at the Trader’s Upper East Hotel. Overload Poetry Festival slam cham- (See listings) pion 2010 and author of The Future Wu Li Xian offers diners a modern menu featur- Ancients, a collection of his best slam ing Cantonese and Huaiyang (food from Jiangsu poetry and verse. NOV 13 and the surrounding eastern and southern prov- //RMB50, RMB40 (members). 7.30pm. inces), some local dishes (hard to avoid really The Bookworm, Courtyard 4, Nan EAT/DRINK when your local cuisine is as rich as Beijing’s) Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang district 朝阳区 and some Hong Kong-style dim sum thrown in 南三里屯路4号院 (6586 9507; www. Talk: Food Culture & Consumption for good measure. innbeijing.org) The drive to urbanization has been the catalyst for an equally profound Not surprising then that Chef Han is the perfect NIGHTLIFE upheaval in food culture and con- man to step in and add a little savoir-faire in sumption. Series coordinator Richard blending these cuisines together to create that Gig: Cobra Brubaker and Capital M’s panel of something a little bit special. But experience will Original all-female Chinese rock trio experts will discuss these major trends, only get you so far. Han accredits his success to from the 90s bites back for rare perfor- including urbanization, consumer a hardworking diligence – no less important to a mance. Nova Heart support. tastes and preferences, and food chef than a pan and a good blade – and it's some- //RMB100, RMB70(pre-sale), waste. thing he hasn't lost sight of since his early days 9pm. Yugongyishan 愚公移山 (see list- //RMB188 (includes drink), 12pm. studying at the Institute of Culinary Arts in Beijing. ings) Reservations required. Capital M, 3 Floor, 2 Qianmen Pedestrian Street, On top of the passion for fine Chinese cui- Gig: Reggae Massive! Featuring Cojie Dongcheng District东城区前门步行街2 sine Wu Li Xiang always dedicates itself to A night of reggae and dancehall cour- 号 (6702 2727, reservations@capital-m- using only safe, non-genetically modified tesy of Japan’s premier Jamaican music beijing.com) ingredients with no food additives. Try label. the rich flavors of the Steamed Pork // RMB50, 10pm, Dada, Room 101, NOV 15-24 Balls in Broth, infused with delicious B building, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, fresh water chestnuts or go for the Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街 delicate and crispy Sweet and Sour 206号B栋101室 EAT/DRINK Mandarin Fish – classic flavors of the kind of Chinese cuisine that -Music: Jing Jam Worm Up! Old Time, Festival: Taiwan’s Exquisite Food Feast Han and his team know so well. Bluegrass and Country Music Hilton Beijing Wangfujing presents Old time, bluegrass and folk work- a gourmet Taiwan snack festival of // Wu Li Xiang, Traders Upper East shops, plus singalongs, concerts, traditional dishes, with a lucky draw in Hotel, L2/3, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu (NE square dancing and free jams. which the first prize is two round-trip 4th Ring Road, SE of Xiaoyun Bridge), // All-Day Pass RMB130 (includes two air tickets Taiwan and a three-night Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环北路 drinks), 12pm-midnight. Tickets to stay for two at Fullon Hotel, Taipei plus 2号北京上东盛贸饭店 (5907 8406; www. single events are RMB50 (includes one breakfast. tradershotels.com) //Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8 drink). The singalongs and jams are

62 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com free. Tickets available in advance at the listings). NIGHTLIFE Nov 27 Bookworm. Gig: The Faceless (USA) Nov 21 What this progressive death metal NIGHTLIFE Nov 17 band from LA lacks in faces they make Modern Sky Festival: Tegan & Sara up for in balls. NIGHTLIFE Hip n’ local label Modern Sky kicks NIGHTLIFE //RMB230, RMB180 pre-sale, RMB400 Gig: Fatiaokamusuo off their their indoor 4-day club fes- VIP, 8pm. Yugongyishan 愚公移山 (see tival with this famously talented and Gig: Moonspell (Portugal) One of Tianjin’s quirkiest bands takes listings). Renowned doom metal quintet eclips- the bullet train to the big city. Summer Grammy nominated pair of indie-pop Party: Heroes Vs. Villains Disco Derby sisters. Dabang support. es the capital as part of a heavy music Sunshine supports. Honor your favorite superhero at the onslaught from Guitar China. // RMB60 (50 pre-sale), Mao Livehouse // RMB280, (220 presale), 9pm Yugong Third Roller Skating Party! Music by DJs Yishan (see listings) //RMB300, RMB220 pre-sale, RMB580 (See listings) Max At Large and MRG, plus prize for VIP, 8pm. Yugongyishan 愚公移山 (see the best costume. listings). Nov 22 //RMB100, RMB80 (own skates and/or NOV 28 in costume), 9pm. Mako Live House, COMMUNITY Hongdian Art Factory, 36 Guangqu Lu, EAT/DRINK NIGHTLIFE Chaoyang district 朝阳区广渠路36号红 Talk: Xi Chuan & Helen Wing, Poetry 点艺术工厂 (5205 1112, www.mako001. DJ: Santo Chino (USA) Happy Hour: Warm Wishes at as Fire com) Thanksgiving Poets Helen Wing and Xi Chuan ex- Miami’s premier dance scholar single- handedly swings the verdict that disco Seafood Thanksgiving dinner buffet plore the idea of poetry as ‘fire,’ from EAT/DRINK with traditional turkey, pumpkin soup the imagery in their poems to their sucks with rare cuts out of his custom analog mixer. DJs Soundspade, Ozone, and pumpkin pies, including coffee views on how imagination spreads, Theme Dinner: Murder Mystery! OST HuaDong support. and tea, soft drink, juice. like fire, beyond borders. If you missed the Beijing version last // Free, 10pm, Dada, 101Room, B build- // RMB398, RMB498 (includes free-flow //RMB75 (includes drink), 4pm. Capital year, TurnUp Events present another ing, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng beer and wine). 6-9pm, Beijing Marriott M, 3rd Floor, 2 Qianmen Pedestrian “hilarious murder mystery” and this District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B栋101室 Hotel Northeast , 26A Xiaoyun Lu, Street, Dongcheng District东城区前门 time, they have the ideal venue, Chaoyang district海航大厦万豪酒店, 朝阳步行街2号 (6702 2727; reservations@ the 140-year-old Astor Hotel. A three- DJ: Lantern gets localized 区霄云路甲26号(5927 8312) capital-m-beijing.com) course meal, with drinks, is included to Jägermeister sponsors a local show- help sharpen your sleuthing skills. case of techno, intelligent house and Drink: The Bookworm’s Wine Club // RMB400 (includes cocktail reception, Nov 20 minimal DJs Mickey Zhang, Ou Lang, The Bookworm’s wine club is back with meal, inclusive of, and murder-mystery XLF, Weng Weng and Diva a selection of wines from a unique performance), RMB1,50 accommoda- // RMB30 (includes Jager shot), 10pm, vineyard in South of France: Domaine NIGHTLIFE tion package (includes dinner party and Lantern, 100m north of Worker's de la Rouviole. breakfast for one, and a room at the Gig: Leaves' Eyes + Atrocity (Norway/ Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang District //RMB150, 8pm. The Bookworm, luxurious Astor). 33 Taierzhuang Lu, Germany) 灯笼朝阳区工人体育场北门附近 (6551 Courtyard 4, Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang Heping district和平区台儿庄路33号天津 Viking adventures and Norse mythol- 3936) District 朝阳区南三里屯路4号院 (6586 1 (020 2331 ogy set to symphonic metal from this 利顺德大饭店豪华精选酒店层 9507; restaurant@beijingbookworm. 1688; www.starwood hotels.com; chris- northern European horde. com) [email protected]) //RMB300, RMB220 pre-sale, RMB580 Nov 23 Limited Seats Available, tickets do not VIP, 8pm. Yugongyishan 愚公移山 (see cover travel costs. NOV 29

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 63 events

COMMUNITY ARTS of the daughter and Tania Ermida. //Free, 6pm. the Cervantes Institute in Film: ‘The Name Given By the Era’ Beijing, A1, Gongti Nanlu, Chaoyang (DPRK, 2009, 84mins) District 朝阳区工体南路A1 (58 799 666, One of the more recent films to come [email protected]) out of North Korea’s state film industry, this premiered in 2009 at the Taedongmun cinema and made ex- EVERY SATURDAY plicit reference to the energy problems experienced by the country, while ex- COMMUNITY tolling the virtues of the young people sacrificing their individual desires to Tour: The Beijing Kung Fu Tour help build a prosperous and efficient The legends and history surrounding society for all, as the propaganda ma- the development of the martial arts chine would have it. explained, including the chance to //Free, 7.30pm. Koryo Tours Office, 27 sample a wide range of movements Beisanlitun Nan, Chaoyang District 朝阳 and styles as part of a mini Kung Fu 区北三里屯南27号 (vicky@koryogroup. masterclass. com) //RMB260 (adults), RMB130 (under 14s), 2-4pm. See website for starting NIGHTLIFE point and private tour pricing; tours must be booked in advance. (138 1777 Gig: Mac Demarco 0229; [email protected], www. See Drum Roll newmantours.com) // RMB80 (60 student), 9pm, MAO Livehouse (see listings) ALL MONTH DJ: Noise & Noise record release Local label 87 Fei 87 puts out latest EAT/DRINK dark electro release from producer Noise & Noise. Fløøød and Vortyglut All month Food: Happy Hour at EAST Beijing support. Morning Coffee //Free, 10pm, Dada, 101Room, B build- Film: European Film Festival Before 10.30am daily get a compli- ing, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng Featuring 22 carefully chosen films to screen for the first time in China on mentary pastry or muffin with every District 东城区鼓楼东大街206号B栋101室 nine big screens in Beijing, Chengdu, and Shenzhen, the EUFF opens on 1st takeaway coffee November in Beijing with director Gerard Barrett from Ireland presenting Lunch Set Pilgrim Hill, and continues through 30th November. Tickets are available at the Enjoy a soup and a half sandwich, Nov 30 theaters for no more than RMB40, screenings at Cultural Centers are free. salad and a soft drink for only RMB48 // Tickets are available at cinemas, and www.damai.cn for the larger venues. from 10.30am – 3pm; add RMB10 for NIGHTLIFE Complete schedules (tbc) can be found at www.eu-in-china.com; www.douban. fresh juice com/people/EUFF/ www.weibo.com/eufilmfestival. Further information will be Girls Picnic afternoon tea DJ: Art Department (Canada) made available at www.douban.com/people/EUFF/; www.weibo.com/eufilmfesti- An RMB168 selection of desserts, Techno/house homeboys Kenny val; www.eu-in-china.com cakes, scones and mini sandwiches Glasgow and Jonny White prepare a daily from 12pm-late, including coffee night of live vocals over raw electro. or tea for two, // RMB100 (includes one standard mixer // All prices exclude a 15-percent ser- drink) 10pm, Cicada Ultralounge, N4-33 Beijing Improv consists of a crowd of EVERY WEDNESDAY vice charge. 2F, 22 Jiuxianqiao Road, Tai Koo Li Sanlitun North, 11 Sanlitun fun-lovin’ and creative people, their Chaoyang district朝阳区酒仙桥路22号 improv drama workshop is bound to Lu, Chaoyang District,朝阳区三里屯路11 ART 号三里屯太古里北区N4-33 (6418 9818) bring out laughter, and more laughter Tailor Made Annual Party in store in the second part of the night Workshop: An afternoon at Reina Plan your own annual party, Indian Gig: Club 8 [Sweden] when a group of comics get onstage to Sofia Museum in Madrid or Turkish style, at an outdoor con- Indie duo drizzles chilled trip hop with do their thing. A basic training on the history of servatory, with Turkish bar and TADKA warm Franco-pop splashes to make it // Free, 8pm. Hot Cat Club (see listings) Spanish contemporary paintings, Indian restaurant available for you. seems this year’s Modern Sky Fest was focusing on four key artworks at the Step-by-step planning assistance pro- nothing but a dream. EVERY TUESDAY AND Reina Sofia Museum in Madrid. fessionals available. // RMB180, (150 presale), 9pm, SATURDAY //RMB300, 7-8.30pm. 4 Floor, Cervantes //Beijing Marriott Hotel Northeast, 26A Yugong Yishan, 3-2 Zhang Zizhong Lu, Institute, A1, Gongti Nanlu, Distrito Xiaoyun Lu, Chao yang District Beijing Dongcheng District 愚公移山东城区张 Chaoyang 朝阳工体南路A1(www.pekin. 北京海航大厦万豪酒店北京市朝阳区霄云自忠路3-2号(6404 2711, www.buy.mod- COMMUNITY cervantes.es) 路甲26号(5927 8888) ernsky.com) Tour: Opium War in Yuanmingyuan Eat: Sizzling Winter Delights Discover the intrigues of the Qing EAT/DRINK DJ: The Syndicate Nothing is more appetizing than siz- Imperial court, the turmoil caused by Beijing Drum and Bass crew returns Buddha Promotion zling hot food on a freezing winter’s the Opium Wars and the impact of to Dada bringing Shanghai's Siesta It’s buy one, get another free on the day. Sun Palace Chinese, Rainbow these events on modern China during [Phreaktion] and local faves Blackie, famous ‘Buddha’ drinks at Fubar. Yunnan Restaurant and Red Orange a relaxing tour of the Old Summer Donkey Tonk, Kay C and Clir. Choose either the RMB100 (includes Palace Restaurants bring hot plates, Palace’s lakes, gardens and maze by // RMB40, 10pm, Dada, 101Room, Buddha vessel to take home and wor- stones and casseroles to the game un- Anglo-French guides (for the full sense B building, 206 Gulou Dong Dajie, ship forever) or RMB60 (no taking that til January 31, 2014. of dramatic irony). Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街 home) versions, choose your spirit and // Crowne Plaza Beijing Sun Palace, //Saturdays 2-5pm (English), Tuesdays 206号B栋101室 prepare to get good ‘n drunk. Yunnan Dasha, Northeast Corner of 2-5pm (French), RMB300 (adults), // From 7pm-late. Fubar Peking, onside Taiyanggong Bridge, Xibahe, Dongbei includes admission. (www.beijingby- Workers’ Stadium East Gate, Gongti Sanhuan, Chaoyang district北京新云南 heart.com; [email protected]) Every Tuesday Dong Lu, Chaoyang district 福吧北京, 朝皇冠假日酒店, 朝阳区东北三环西坝河太阳区工体东路工人体育场东门内10号进口阳宫桥东北角云南大厦 (Sun Palace: 6452 NIGHTLIFE EVERY SATURDAY 1708; Rainbow: 6452 1808; Red Orange: 6429 8888 – 6328) Gig: Gypsy Jazz Jam-Session AND SANDAY Every Friday The Hot Club of Beijing hosts this and Saturday from Eat: All You Can Eat Dim Sum weekly jam where all musicians get a COMMUNITY More than 60 types of Cantonese-style free beer on the house, regardless of NOV 14 dim sum, including steamed shrimp Tour: Literary Revolution Tour talent. dumplings, plus steamed chicken feet The vibrant beginnings of Peking // No cover, 9pm. Hot Cat Club (see ART with black bean paste and crispy du- University show how a generation of listings) rian cake among many other treats at scholars pushed China towards moder- Film: Ecuador Film Series Ceremony the Wanli Chinese Restaurant. nity. How did that work out, then? Each Friday, 7pm, and Saturday, 6pm, // RMB138 person plus 15 percent sur- Every Wednesday //Sundays 1-4pm (English), Saturdays from November 14 to December 14, an charge. Fri-Sun, 11.30am-2pm (lunch) 1-4pm (French). RMB300 (adults); in- Ecuadorian film will be screened, in- 5.30pm-9pm (dinner). Renaissance cludes admission. (www.beijingbyheart. NIGHTLIFE cluding Fisherman, Sebastian Cordero, Beijing Chaoyang Hotel, 36 Xiaoyun com; [email protected]) At your Back, Tito Jara, Prometheus Lu, Chaoyang District 36 Comedy: Beijing Improv Workshop & 朝阳区霄云路 Deported, Fernando Honeys, On Behalf (6468 9999) Comedy Open Mic 号

64 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com events HAPP Y HOURS Ladies’ nightS Aria Bar 阳区东直门外大街22-1号 (6416 5499) Mon-Fri 5-8pm, two-for-one drinks. Mosto 2/F, China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomen 6-7pm discounts on cocktails, wine The Stumble Inn Waidajie, Chaoyang District 建国门外大街1 and beer. 9pm-midnight, ladies get free mixed 号中国大饭店2层 (6505 2266 ext. 36) Nali Patio 3rd Floor, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, drinks and RMB20 martinis. Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北路81号 S3-31, 3/F, Sanlitun Village South, 19 Sanlitun The Big Smoke 那里花园 (5208 6030) Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号 Daily 4-7pm, 20 per- 三里屯Village 3楼3层S3-31(6417 7794) cent off all cocktails, NOLA house wines and Daily 3-8pm. Sun-Thu, half price on beers. Pabst Blue Ribbon, Tsingdao and all The World of Suzie Wong’s 57 Xingfucun Zhonglu, cocktails including Daiquiris. 9pm-12am, free drinks. Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸福 A-11 Xiushui Nanjie, Jianguomenwai Dajie, Gate 8, West Gate of Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang 村中路57号楼利世楼 (6416 Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街秀 District 朝阳区朝阳公园西门8号 (6500 2683) 水南街A-11 (8563 6215) 3377)

Blue Frog Pinotage Vics Daily 4-8pm, buy one get one Weekdays, 4-7pm, buy one, get one Free drinks for ladies until midnight. free all drinks. free on house wines, sparkling and Inside the north gate of the Workers’ Stadium, S4-30, 3/F, Building 4, Sanlitun draught beer. Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北门内(5293 Building 2, 2-105, 1st Floor Sanlitun SOHO, No.8 Village South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, 0333) Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯 Gongtibeilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路 8号三里屯Soho2号楼2-105 (5785 3538) 路19号三里屯Village南区8号楼S10-31 Thursday (6417 4030) Inside Chuangyi Yuan, 3A Shunhuang Lu (near BD ﬂower market ), Sunhe Township, Chaoyang Bar Blu Centro District .朝阳区孙河乡顺黄路甲3号创意园内 (近北东花卉市场)(84595868) Free cocktails for ladies until midnight. Daily 5-8pm, two for one deals. 4/F-6/F Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Hou Jie, 1/F, 1 Guanghua Lu, Shangri-la's Kerry Centre Wednesday Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯酒吧北街同 Hotel Beijing, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光 Q Bar Mon-Thurs 6-9pm, selected cocktails 里4层-6层 (6417 4124) 华路香格里拉北京嘉里中心大酒店1层 Black Sun Bar (6561 8833 ext. 42) 40-45 percent off. 6/F, Eastern Hotel, 6 Baijiazhuang Lu, Chaoyang Women get 2-for-1 cocktails, guys get 30 Beer Mania percent off beer. Chill District 朝阳区百家庄6号 (6595 9239) Free Belgian ice cream with every order Chaoyang Park West Gate, Chaoyang District 朝 Daily 4-8pm, RMB10 off any beer. of two Lindeman beers. 阳区朝阳公园西门 (6593 6909) 2 Andingmen Xidajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳 R Lounge 103-104 Taiyue Hotel, 16 Sanlitun Nan lu, 区安定门西大街2号 (6405 9575) Daily 6-9pm, two for one standard Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯南路16号泰 drinks and cocktails. Elements 悦豪庭103-104(6500 0559) Cuju 4/F, Renaissance Beijing Capital Hotel, 61 9pm-1am, free mojitos, champagne and Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳 Daily 6-9pm, buy one get one free Cosmos. Hidden Lounge 区东三环中路61号北京富力万丽酒店4层 draft beer, mixed drinks and soft 58 Gongti Xi Men, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工 9pm-12am, free drinks for ladies. (5863 8112) drinks. 体西门58号 (6551 2373) Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD Apartments, 28 Xiguan Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城 Salud Shuanghuayuan Nanlier Qu, Chaoyang District 28 (6407 9782) Eudora Station 区西管胡同号 Mon-Fri, 3-7pm, two-for-one Yanjing 朝阳区双花园南里二区, CBD总部公寓, 8号 beer or infused rum, buy two get one 8pm-12am, ladies ordering food from 楼101室(8772 1613) Enoterra free Draft Vedett. the ladies’ night menu receive free Mon-Fri 4-8pm, buy one glass of wine, 66 Nanluoguxiang, Dongcheng District 东城 drinks from the same menu. Opus Terrace get one free. 区南锣鼓巷66号 (6402 5086 6 Fangyuan Xi Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳 5-8pm, ladies enjoy free cocktails; on D405, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 园西路6号 (6437 8331) Fridays, its Bachelors Night, where chaps District 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园 Transit get 50 percent off beer and burgers for D405 (5208 6076) Daily 6pm-7:30pm, two-for-one. Four Corners the same times. N4-36, Sanlitun Village North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Buy two get one free martinis for Eudora Station Daily 4pm-1am, Sun bunch 12-4pm, Opus Chaoyang District. 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里 women. Daily 4.30-7.30pm, buy one get one Bar & Terrace, 48 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang 屯Village北区N4-36号 (6417 9090) 7 Dashibei Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城 free on all alcoholic drinks. District 朝阳区亮马桥路48号 (5695 8888) 区大石杯胡同7号 (6401 7797) 6 Fangyuan Xilu, Chaoyang District Twilight 朝阳区芳园西路6号 (6437 8331) Mon-Sat before 8pm and all day Sun, Solutions RMB20 off cocktails. Haze Free drinks for ladies all night long. Flamme 0102, 3/F, Bldg 5, Jianwai SOHO, 39 11pm-3am, free rosé and cocktails. 1/F, Bldg 12, Huaqing Jiayuan, Haidian District cocktail, beers and wine by the glass Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang District 朝 A101, Guanghua Lu SOHO, 22 Guanghua Lu, 海淀区五道口华清嘉园12号楼1层 (8586 50% off from 3pm to 7:30pm daily. 阳区东三环39号建外SOHO5号3层0102室 Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路22号光华 3517) S4-33, 3/F, Sanlitun Village, 19 Gongti Beilu, (5900 5376) 路SOHO A101 (5900 6128) Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号三里 XIU 屯VILLAGE南区3层S4-33 (6417 8608) Union Bar and Grille Propaganda Mon-Thurs 6-9pm, buy one get one free Daily 4-8pm, discount beer & cocktails. All you can drink for RMB30. on selected drinks. Mai Bar 3/F, Sanlitun Village Bldg 5, 19 Sanlitun Lu, 100m north of the east gate of 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路19号院 Mondays, buy two cocktails, get one Huaqing Jiay uan, Wudaokou, Haidian Jianguomenwai Street 北京柏悦 free. 三里屯Village 5号3层S6-31单元 (6415 District 海淀区酒店, 建国门外大街2号6楼 ( 40 Beiluoguxiang, Dongcheng District东城区北 9117) 五道口华 8567 1108) 锣鼓巷40号 (138 1125 2641) Xiu 清家园东门向北100米 Mao Mao Chong Mon-Thurs 6-9pm, buy one get one Zeta Bar (8289 3991) Wednesday 7-11pm, cocktails free on selected drinks. 9pm-late, head upstairs to the RMB35. 6/F, Park Hyatt Beijing, 2 Jianguomenwai “ladies’ only” section for free cocktails. 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan Street 北京柏悦酒店, 建国门外大街2号6 Q Mex 2/F, Hilton Beijing, 1 Dongfang Lu, Chaoyang Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区交楼 ( 8567 1108) Free margaritas for District 朝阳区1号希尔顿饭店2层(5865 道口南大街板厂胡同12号 (6405 women. 5050) 5718) Zeta Bar 4 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang Daily 6-9pm, half price drinks. District 朝阳区工体北路4号 Saturday Modo Urban Deli Hilton Hotel, 1 Dongfang Lu, 东方路1号希尔 (6585 3828) 4-7pm cocktails, house wine 顿酒店(5865 5000 ext. 5050) R Lounge RMB25, Beer RMB15. Get Listed! Starfish Selection of drinks for free all night. S10-31, 3/F, Bldg 8, Sanlitun 4-11pm, ladies enjoy 3 61 Dongsanhuan Zhong Lu, Chaoyang District Village South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Please send your venue details and Kumamoto oysters with a glass 朝阳区61东三环中路(5863 8241) Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里 promotional information to of Prosecco for RMB150. 屯路19号三里屯Village南区 [email protected] for 22-1 Dongzhimen Outer 8号楼S10-31 (6415 7207) consideration. Listing not guaranteed. Street, Chaoyang District 朝

66 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com BRu nches meal deals Agua MoMo Cafe Agua (6512 8833) Sat-Sun 12-3pm, aperitivo brunch with Sun 11.30am-3pm. “Fast Casual” Mon-Fri noon-3 pm, Spanish-style two course meal for RMB88 or three choice of tapas, Spanish mains and brunch with free flow soft drinks and Maison Boulud dessert for RMB198, add RMB98 for juice for RMB288, or add champagne, courses for RMB99 Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm, business lunch 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang free flow sangria or cava sangria. beer and wine for RMB388. consists of three courses for RMB198 District朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园4 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang Courtyard by Beijing Marriott Northeast, 101 plus 15 percent service charge. 楼D308号 (5208 6188) District朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园4 Jingmi Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区京迷路 23 Qianmen Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 东楼D308号 (5208 6188) 101号 (5907 6658) Alameda 城区前门东大街23号 (6559 9200) Mon-Fri 11.30am-3pm, weekday lunch Aroma Pinotage Migas Sat-Sun 11.30am-3pm, international Opening special: Saturdays and with two courses for RMB78 or three courses for RMB98. Mon-Fri 12pm-3pm, two courses with buffet starting at RMB518 plus 15 per- Sundays, free flow on all house wines Sanlitun Bei Jie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里 snack and dessert for RMB85. All op- cent service charge. for RMB150 from 11am-5pm. 屯北街 (6417 8084) tions are seasonal. Ritz-Carlton Beijing, 83A Jian Guo Road, China Building 2, 2-105, 1st Floor Sanlitun SOHO, No.8 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang Central Place, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国 Gongtibeilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北 Aria District 朝阳区三里屯北街81号那里花园6 路83甲 (5908 8161) 路8号三里屯Soho2号楼2-105 (5785 3538) Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm Three contem- 层 (5208 6061) porary European courses paired with Café Sambal One East coffee or tea for RMB198 with 15 percent Pinotage Sat/Sun, RMB98, Café Sambal are roll- Sun 12-3pm, American-style set lunch service charge. Mon-Fri 12pm-6pm, RMB78 for two ing out weekend brunch with a rotat- from RMB188, plus DIY bloody mary L2, China World Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Dajie course set lunch, add dessert for ing menu of Malaysian delicacies, like bar for an extra RMB98. Prices subject Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号 RMB25 and glass of wine for RMB25. Kapitan and Nasi Lamak. Three courses to 15 percent surcharge. (6505 2266-36) Building 2, 2-105, 1st Floor Sanlitun SOHO, No.8 plus coffee, tea or fruit punch. 2/F, Hilton Hotel Beijing, 1 Dongfang Lu, North Gongtibeilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北 43 Doufuchi Hutong, Jiugulou Dajie 旧 East Third Ring Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 Bene Restaurant 路8号三里屯Soho2号楼2-105 (5785 3538) 鼓楼大街豆腐池胡同43号 (6400 4875) 东三环北路东方路1号北京希尔顿酒店2 Daily 11.30am-2pm. RMB98 includes Inside Chuangyi Yuan, 3A Shunhuang Lu 层 (5865 5030) antipasto with main course, pizza or (near BD ﬂower market ), Sunhe Township, Colibri pasta. Chaoyang District .朝阳区孙河乡顺黄路甲3号 Sheraton Dongcheng, 36 Dongcheng Beilu, Sat-Sun 9am-2pm, any dish from Qi 创意园内(近北东花卉市场)(84595868 brunch menu for RMB48, or add a cup Dongcheng District 东城区北三环路36号 Sun 11.30am-2pm, all you can eat dim (5798 8888) of coffee for RMB58. sum including one double boiled soup Rumi Mon-Fri, 11.30am-2.30pm, Buffet for LG51, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Sanlitun Village North, for RMB288 per person. Add a bottle Cafe Sambal RMB88. Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三 of Dom Perignon for RMB1988 for two. Nasi Campur Malaysian set: two meats 1-1 Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工里屯Village北区地下层51 (6417 0808) Ritz-Carlton Beijing Financial Street, 1 Jin Cheng and vegetables each, varying daily. 体北路11号 (6467 2961) Fang Dong Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District 西城区 With soup, appetiozer for RMB78. Enoterra 金城坊东金融街1号 (6601 6666) Curry sets from RMB55-65 Niajo Sat-Sun 11am-4pm, a la carte brunch See Listings for details for RMB75-130. Free-flow sparkling Mon-Fri 12-2.30pm, three course lunch Senses and Prego with a glass of wine, soft drinks or cof- wine for an extra RMB80. Capital M Sun 11.30am-3pm, Retrolicious fee for RMB98. 4/F Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu 朝阳区三里 Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, locally-focused Champagne Brunch, international and 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang 屯北路81号那里花园4楼D308号 (5208 Asian specialties with free flow cham- lunch offering an appetizer, main 6076) course, fresh squeezed juice and fruit District 朝阳区三里屯北路81号那里花园三 pagne, wines, cocktails, and juices for 层 (5208 6052) RMB 458. prices subject to 15% service. for RMB118. Menu changes every three Eudora Station months. The Westin Beijing Financial Street, 9B Financial One East Sat-Sun 10am-3pm, breakfast buffet 3/F, 2 Qianmen Pedestrian Street, Dongcheng Street, Xicheng District 西城区金融大街乙9号 12-2.30pm, Mon-Fri. Two courses for with one main and free-flow juice or District 东城区前门步行街2号3层 (6702 (6629 7810) RMB128, or three courses for RMB138. coffee for RMB98. 2727) Hilton Beijing, 1 Dong Fang Road, North Dong Opposite Lido Palace, 6 Fangyuan Xi Lu. Seasonal Tastes Cepe Sanhuan Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北 Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西路6号 Sun 11.30am-3pm Unlimited buffet for Mon-Fri from 11.30am-2.30pm, an- 路东方路1号 ( 5865 5030 ) (6437 8331) RMB428-498 per person plus 15 per- tipasti or soup, choice of six mains cent surcharge. (pasta, meat, fish) and selection of des- Oakwood Residence Beijing Feast Westin Chaoyang., 7 North Dongsanhuan Road, serts starting at RMB328/person. Daily 12-2pm. Two courses for RMB92; Sun, 11.30am-3pm, brunch buffet with Chaoyang District朝阳区东三环北路7号 Ritz-Carlton Financial Street, 1 Jin Cheng Fang 3 courses for RMB108. Changes weekly. free-flow wine, beer, juices and soft (5922 8880) Dongjie, Xicheng District 西城区金融街金城坊 8 Dongzhimenwai Xiejie, Chaoyang District 朝 drinks for RMB428, or with free- flow 东街1号 (6601 6666) 阳区东直门外斜街8号 (5995 2888) champagne for RMB488. Sureño Sheraton Beijing Dongcheng, 36 North Third Sunday lunchtime, 3 or 4 courses for Beijing Marriott Hotel Sureño Ring Road East, Dongcheng District 东城区北 RMB298 or RMB328 with desserts, Daily 11.30-2pm, Complete with Mon-Fri & Sun, 12.-2.30p, lunch set 三环36号 (5798 8908) Both include soft drinks and juices, dumplings,noodles,congee and dessert RMB188 + 15% Champagne package is RMB200, cock- favorites,including chilled fruit juice Bldg 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳 The Garden Court tail package is RMB150. Prices subject or Chinese tea for RMB118. Sun and 区三里屯路11号1号楼 (6410 5240) Sun 11.30am-3pm until Dec 30, to 15 percent service charge. Sat 11.30-2pm, Dim Sum with a lobster Christmas brunch with festive interna- Bldg 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang Distri ct and unlimited beer for only RMB168. S.T.A.Y Restaurant tional dishes for RMB488, or with free- 朝阳区三里屯路11号1号楼 (6410 5240) 26A Xiao Yun Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳 Tuesday to Friday 11:30am-2:30pm Three flow champagne for RMB588. Prices 区霄云路甲26号北京海航大厦万豪酒店 courses including coffee and tea for subject to 15 percent service charge. Sui Yuan (5927 8888) RMB388/person with 15 percent ser- St Regis Beijing, 21 Jianguomen Waidajie, Sat-Sun and public holidays 10.30am- vice charge. Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街 21 2.30pm, unlimited dim sum for Danieli’s Level 1, Valley Wing, Shangri-La Hotel, 29 号 (6460 6688) RMB128 plus 15 percent surcharge. Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm, Choice of three Zizhuyuan Lu, Haidian District 海淀区紫竹 Hilton Double Tree, 168 Guang’anmen business menus including Italian ap- 院路29号香格里拉酒店1层 (6841 2211- Maison Boulud Waidajie, Xicheng District 西城区广安门外 petizers, main courses and specialty 6572) Sat-Sun, 11am-4pm, a la carte set from 大街168号 (6338 1999 ext. 1726) Italian desserts for RMB118-168 with RMB128 (one course) to RMB288 (four 15 percent service charge. Taverna courses) plus 15 percent surcharge. Vasco’s 21 Jianguomenwai Street, Chaoyang District Daily 11am-2.30pm. Two courses and 21 (6460 6688) 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District Sun 11.30am-3pm, international buffet 朝阳区建国门外大街号 coffee/ tea for RMB78. Add a glass of 东城区前门东大街23号 (6559 9200) with free-flow champagne for RMB458 wine for RMB30 or dessert for RMB20. Flamme plus 15 percent service charge. Courtyard 4 ,Gongti Bei;u, Chaoyang District朝阳 Every Tuesday 2-for-1 steak all day. The Rug Hilton Beijing Wangfujing, 8 Wangfujing 区工体北路4号院 (6501 8882) 3/F, S4-33 Sanlitun Village, 19 Sanlitun Lu, A la carte brunch menu offered daily Dongjie, Dongcheng District 东城区王府井 Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯19号, 三里 from 10.30am-5pm, ranging from 8 (5812 8888 ext. 8411) Transit 东街号屯Village南区S4-33 (6417 8608) rmb48-RMB138. Daily 12pm-2.30pm. Choice of appetizers, mains, rice or noodles with dessert 1/F, Bldg 4, lishui jiayuan, Chaoyang Yi House Le Cabernet Gongyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 International set menu for RMB308. for RMB88. Mon-Fri 12-2.30pm, chef’s selection of N4-36/37 Sanlitun Village North, 11 Sanlitun 朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4号楼1楼(8550 Grace Hotel, Bldg 2, 1 706 Hou Jie, salad, main courses and homemade Lu, Chaoyang District 11 2722) Jiuxianqiao Lu, 798 Art District, Chaoyang 朝阳区三里屯路号三 ice creams for two for RMB180. 里屯VILLAGE北区N4-36/37 (6417 9090) District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区 Novotel Beijing Peace Hotel, 3 Jinyu Hutong, 706后街1号 (6436 1818) Chaoyang District 朝阳区金鱼胡同3号

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 67 events CITY SCENEs

Nicholas Cage, Hayden Christiansen, and Masayuki Kurokawa visited The Astor Hotel in Tianjin while they were on set filming the upcoming new film The Last War. There he is, with the GM...

Beijing’s Traders Upper East Hotel presented some food specials to The Beijing International Polo Open and British Polo Day China 2013 brought Britain’s celebrate their Singapore Food Festival. And lo, festivities did abound... top polo team, the British Exiles, pictured here at the Intercontinental Beijing Financial Street with hotel GM Frankson Lee, to play at the Beijing Sunny Times Polo Club.

Bringing a ray of cultural light to tough lives, the SK Tower hosted an The St. Regis Tianjin joined forces with UNICEF and the Jianhua exhibition featuring artworks by impoverished and disabled kids. Foundation to host a Check Out for Children charity sale activity on September 28th at Joy City Tianjin. Check that out!

68 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com Great Leap Brewing celebrated three years in Beijing with the Karl Long challenge – can you keep your shiort on all night? Answer: no.

The Conrad Beijing held their “Finance and Companies” event with the FC Group and, as you can guess, everyone got bombed...

Courtyard by Marriott Beijing Northeast celebrated their 30th anniversary in the hotel’s own 101 Lounge with music, food, and fun, fun times – including a cake that everybody wanted a piece of...

Shangri-La Hotel, Beijing and S.T.A.Y. hosted the “S.T.A.Y. in Exhiliarating Flames Bar in the Hilton Beijing Wangfujing hosted a monthly “Future Autumn Qipao Dream Tea Party” with a special series of 50 qipao and Career Networking” evening with the FC Group. It was wild... specially designed by haute couture designer, Guo Pei. Qi-wow!

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 69 LISTINGS lings, Baoyuan have their jiaozi (six, under Expensive...... ¥ RMB10) wrapped in a larger yuanbao Expense Account ...... ¥¥ silver-ingot shape, with creative vegetarian Recommended ...... * options and authentic Sichuan food. // Daily 11am-10pm. North of 6 Maizidian Jie, Top Ten ...... ** Chaoyang District 朝阳区麦子店街6号楼北侧 (6586 4967) Barolo ¥¥ (Italian) * Average Italian abounds in Beijing: not RESTAURANTS here, though. Quite the opposite, in fact, meaning Barolo is as well-regarded as the THE HOT ONE HUNDRED Piedmont wine it is named after. // Mon-Sun 11.30am-2pm, 6pm-10pm. Ritz About This guide represents our editors’ top Carlton Hotel, China Central Place, 83A 100 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国路甲 advertisers. Restaurants rated(*) have been 83号华贸中心丽思卡尔顿酒店内 (5908 8151) personally reviewed by our experts, and scored according to the cuisine, experience Beiluo Bread Bar (Cafés) and affordability. This local hipster café favorite offers in- house baked bread and sandwiches but 29 Grill (Steak) * we usually go for the hand-pulled noodles. Top-notch steak, along with just about eve- Gets cozy at night. ry other cut of meat found in the barnyard // Tue-Sun 12-10pm. 70A Beiluoguxiang, OPEN DOOR in this well-priced meat-eaters’ mecca. Dongcheng District 东城区北锣鼓巷甲70号(近 // Tues-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm. 3/F Corad 南锣鼓巷)(8408 3069) Beijing, 29 Dongsanhuan Beilu. Chaoyang SKYOCEAN, REIGNWOOD District 朝阳区东三环北路9号1层 (6584 6270) Bellagio (Taiwanese) Where else can you carve through moun- Ai Jiang Shan (Korean) tainous shaved ice desserts and suck down CITY CLUB This upscale seafood restaurant proves that creamy bubble teas at 5am? A favorite chargrill and composure can go together. among the city’s hip and young, this Sophisticated dining in the CBD Their RMB58 bibimbap lunch is an absolute swanky Taiwanese restaurant chain is best bargain. enjoyed long after dark. // Daily 11am-10pm, Sat and Sun until // 6 Gongti xilu Chaoyang District 6 号工体西 9.30pm. 5/F, LG Twin Towers (East Tower), 12 路(6551 3533) See www.bellagiocafe.com.cn With a name reminiscent of a James Bond movie, Skyocean Restaurant Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝 for more locations offers its customers a dining experience that is every bit as suave and 阳区建国门外大街乙12号双子座大厦东塔5 层 (51096036/6037, for other locations visit Bene ¥(Italian) * sophisticated as the famous British spy. Conveniently located in the http://www.aijiangshan.com) Chef Ricci will have you singing like a heart of the CBD, chef Chen Liguang fuses traditional and contemporary soprano with his pork ravioli and prize- Alameda (Contemporary Western) * winning tiramisu. Excellent set menus Chinese cuisine to serve up treats like flavorful Pork Balls with Crab Meat Although styled as Brazilian, this laidback (RMB588) and extensive wine selection. (RMB68), Soup Dumplings Stuffed with Crab Meat (RMB68) and succu- eatery is a 1,000 miles from the frenetic // Daily 11am-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Sheraton energy of the city’s Brazilian bar and grills. Beijing Dongcheng, 36 Northeast Third Ring lent Roasted Pork Chops with Peppers (RMB168). With floor-to-ceiling glass interiors and Road, Dongcheng District 东城区北三环东路36 smart minimalist decor, Alameda is one of 号(5798 8995) the best places to while away a weekend. // Daily, 10am-2pm, 5:30pm-10pm 8 Yong An Dong Li, Jianguomen Wai Ave, The mushroom and shiitake white-wine The Big Smoke (American) Chaoyang District, 朝阳区建国门外大街永安东里8号 (8528 8528 ext.3506) risotto is also a must-try. Superb value. Taking the Home Plate BBQ concept and // Daily noon-3pm, 6-10.30pm, Sanlitun Beijie upscaling was a gourmet masterstroke. Full (beside the Nali Mall), Chaoyang District menu evenings-only (also delivers rotisserie 朝阳区三里屯北街(6417 8084) chicken via Uncle Otis). // Daily Mon-Sat 11am-midnight, Sun 11am- 10pm. First Floor, Lee World Building (opposite Frost Nails), 57 Xingfucun Zhong Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸福村中路 57号楼利世楼 (6416 5195, 6416 268,www.uncle-otis. com) Biteapitta (Middle Eastern) * Enjoyed by vegetarians (hummus, falafel) and RMB58 kebab-lovers alike, Biteapitta lunch 88/98 has the Middle-East mid-range market all wrapped up in a fluffy pitta. // Daily 11am-11pm, Second Floor, Tongli WIN: Win four free brunch 198 Studio, Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District entrances and a bot- 朝阳区三里屯后街同里2层 (6467 2961) tle of champagne Blue Frog (American) by dreaming up the This Shanghai hamburger franchise has best concoction for been keeping Americans in China obese a “Vivid” cocktail. since it opened. Monday’s burger deal is always packed. Email prizes@urba- Agua ¥ (Spanish) // Daily 10.00am-late. Sanlitun: Level 3, natomy.com ‘Vivid’ Occupying the high end of Nali’s Spanish OPEN DOOR invasion, Agua excels with reasonably priced S4 Tower, 81 Sanlitun Village, Sanlitun Lu, classics like suckling pig, chorizo and jamon. Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路三里屯 // Daily Midday-2pm, 6pm-10pm. 4/F, Nali Village三层S4 (6417 4030, for other branches PREVIEW: VIVID Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 see www.bluefrog.com.cn) 三里屯路81号那里花园 (5208 6188) Cristal clear Brasserie Flo ¥ ¥ (French) * Aria ¥¥ (European) * Marble slabs, mosaic floors and brass A gold standard of opulence and, at RMB1,100 fittings establish the Parisian bona fides; for the Wagyu beef and starters around dishes like snails (RMB78), oysters (RMB48 We have yet to enjoy any of the benefits promised by Vivid, but that’s RMB150, the prices reflect that. In-house each) and steak tartare (RMB158) confirm. sommeliers help tailor your meal perfectly. The grandeur is matched only by the ser- not because they lied to us or anything. The new bar is opening this // Mon-Fri 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-midnight; vice, and the prices reflect the authenticity October 31 at the Conrad (slightly beyond our print date), but we had Sat-Sun 6-10pm. Second floor, China World of the experience. Hotel, 1 Jianguomenwai Waidajie, Chaoyang // Daily 11am-midnight. 18 Xiaoyun Lu, a look around when they were building it and – assuming that old District 朝阳区建国门外大街1号中国大饭店2层 Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路18号 (6595 guy we found in a hard hat, having lunch and giving us the stink eye, (6505 0828) 5135, www.flo.cn/brasserie/restaurants/ beijing) has moved on – this place is gonna be sexy, slick, swinging and all Back Alley Bistro (Contemporary Western) other suitably assonant words. The menu is comprehensive – roughly There’s not enough of this in Beijing: a cozy Café Ricci (Contemporary Western) joint offering top-notch ‘California-style’ An excellent example of how Italian sensi- 40 Scotches (from RM70 -180, a dozen bourbons, rums and vodka, cuisine at bang-on price points. A fresh, bilities can meld peaceably into a Chinese plus a serious cocktail collection (try these: Cognac Ice Espresso, revolving menu has everything from burg- context, Ricci offers a range of fusion crea- ers (RMB 45/65) to braised oxtail (RMB138) tions, like Sichuan spicy-chicken focaccia RMB80; Smoky Martini, RMB80; plus all the usuals, like, you know, a to seared scallops (RMB148). (RMB45) and a spicy mocha coffee. It’s a Billionaire’s Mojito, RMB110). We’re looking forward to getting up to the // Tues-Sun 11am-2.30pm, 5-11pm. West side paradise for those with a sweet tooth, too. of Jiezuo Dasha, Xingfucun Zhonglu (next to // Daily 8am-9.30pm 1/F, Keji Dasha fifth floor and getting high on bar fumes. Be aware there’s a RMB50 Frost Nails), Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸福村中 Tower D, Bldg 8, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 cover charge. 路(Frost旁边)(6417 5430) Zhongguancun Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝 // Daily 11am-late. 29 North Dongsanhuan Road, Chaoyang district 北京市朝阳区阳区中关村东路1号清华科技园8号楼科技大厦D Baoyuan Jiaoziwu (Chinese regional) 座1层 (8215 8826 http://riccicafe.com) 东三环北路29号5层 (6584 6310) Famous for their rainbow of dyed dump- Capital M (Contemporary Western) **

70 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com The Art Deco interior, swish staff and breathtaking views over the archery towers Colibri (Cafés) from Qianmen ensures the pinnacle of Its cheery, brightly lit veneer, spacious al-fresco dining, with world-class modern seating and wide tables make it the European stylings and deliciously posh darling of the Macbook freelancer crowd. afternoon tea. While it serves a variety of standard café // Daily 11.30am-10.30pm. Floor 3, 2 Qianmen fare, the main attraction are its wide Buxingjie, Chongwen District 东城区前门步 array of colorful delicious, generously 行街2号3层 (6702 2727, www.m-restaurant- frosted,freshly-baked cupcakes. group.com/capitalm/home.html) // Sanlitun Village North11 Sanlitun Lu, Level LG51 (bet. Dongzhimennei Dajie & Gongti Bei Café Zarah (Cafés) Lu) 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯Village北区LG Red armchairs, table candles and a matching 层51号 (6417 0808) Gaggia machine harmonize the creamy, minimalist interior of this cafe, popular with Crescent Moon (Xinjiang) * young professionals. The Austrian-style Roast mutton enthusiasts go over the breakfast sets here are the real deal, while moon at this reputable Xinjiang Muslim Zarah’s coffee also trumps just about any restaurant. Eastern European and Central in town. Asian influences are evident throughout, // Daily 9.30am-midnight 42 Gulou Dongdajie, with peppery and cumin-spiced dishes Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街42号 livening up traditional Chinese favorites. (8403 9807) // 弯弯月亮 16 Dongsi Liutiao 东四六条16号 (6400-5281) Da Dong (Chinese, Peking duck) * Among the city’s most famous haunts, Da Dong guarantees slick carvings of Beijing- style roast duck and delectable wrap fillings. The venue’s a class act and the plum sauce is hard to follow. // Daily 11am-10pm. No.22 Dongsishitiao, Dongcheng District 22号东四十条甲 (5169 0328 See www.dadongdadong.com for more locations Daily 11am-10pm) Da Gui (Chinese Guizhou) Guizhou’s famed hot-and-sour cuisine nestled into a charming traditional alleyway. Munch happily into pickled greens and don’t miss the salty-sweet deep-fried black sesame balls. They’re sensational. // Daily 10am-2pm, 5-10pm. 69 Daxing Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Dongcheng District 东城 Cafe Sambal (SE Asian) 区交道口大兴胡同69号 (6407 1800) When it comes to Malay-style food in a hutong, nowhere does it better. Admittedly, Dali Courtyard (Chinese Yunnan) * it’s something of a niche category, but then If you like authentic Yunnanese food, you’ll so is the food on offer. The spicy Kapitan- have to trust the staff: there’s no menu, style chicken is pricey, but worth it. it all just arrives in an intimate courtyard // Daily 11am-midnight. 43 Doufuchi Hutong setting. The price (RMB120pp) matches the Win a brunch (just east of Jiugulou Dajie), Xicheng District rustic ingredients. 西城区豆腐池胡同43号旧鼓楼大街往东走 // Daily Midday-2pm; 6-10.30pm. Gulou Dong voucher for two (6400 4875) Dajie, 67 Xiaojingchang Hutong, Dongcheng at The Westin. District 东城区鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号 Email prizes@ Cantina Agave (Tex-Mex) (8404 1430) Great selection of burritos, tacos and 80+ urbanatomy.com, imported tequilas. Spice up dishes with the ‘Retrolicious’ walk-up salsa bar and don’t leave without a bite of the custardy flan. //Sun-Thurs 11am to midnight. Fri–Sat 11am to 2am, S4-32 South Block, Sanlitun Village, 19 Sanlitun Lu,Chaoyang District, 朝阳区三里屯路 OPEN DOOR 19号三里屯Village南区(6416 5212) Cepe ¥ (Italian) RETROLICIOUS CHAMPAGNE In a city inundated with Italian offerings, Cepe manages to stand out thanks to it’s attention to the smallest detail – everything sunday BRUNCH from the vinaigrette to the Parma ham is import quality, and the wine is superb. Keep it classic at The Westin Beijing Financial Street Consider it the culinary equivalent of a finely tailored suit. // Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. The Ritz-Carlton Financial Street, 1 Jinchengfang Retro. All the cool kids are doing it. See that sartorially-savvy hipster in Dongjie, Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District Gulou? His shoes were made in the 1940s, my friend. That’s a retro-tastic 西城区金城坊东街1号北京金融街丽思卡顿酒店大堂 (6601 6666) seventy years ago. Retrolicious at The Westin Beijing Financial Street: it’s like retro plus delicious – otherwise known as a winning combo. Camões Portuguese Restaurant (Portu- Din Tai Fung ¥ (Shanghainese) guese) This Taipei-based franchise impressed Ken Camões is a restaurant named after Luís Vaz Hom enough to call it one of the best 10 Don’t worry – it doesn’t mean your food was made decades ago, it means de Camões, Portugal’s greatest poet who was eateries in the world, back in 1993. Well, also a philosopher, adventurer, and a romantic expect high standards and a relaxed, they’re adding a funky spin on the classic Sunday brunch buffet. Why does writer. All of their wines and key ingredients family-style setting at the least. Famous the party have to stop on Saturday night? With Retrolicious’s free-flow are imported from Portugal. The dishes are for its dependably delicious xiaolongbao exquisitely prepared under the direction of or little steam buns. Book ahead, there’s champagne, you can keep it going all the way to 3pm on Sunday afternoon. their native chef. always a long wait. // Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 1-2/F, // 11.30am-2.30pm, 5-10pm Weekends Legendale Hotel, 92 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng 11.30am-10pm. Yu Yang Branch (渔阳店): 24 We firmly believe that free-flow champagne should be a key component of District 东城区金宝街励骏酒店一层 (8511 3388) Middle Street, Xinyuanxili, Chaoyang District, any mealtime, but sadly, most restaurants here in Beijing are reluctant to Beijing 朝阳区新源西里中街24号 (近渔阳饭店) free-flow anything other than frosty service. Not so at the Westin. As well Chef Too ¥ (Contemporary Western) (6462 4502), Shin Kong Place Branch (新光店): With its crisp white tablecloths and service, 6/F, Shin Kong Place, China Center, 87 Jianguo as champagne, there’s the range of fine wine and cocktails, and there’s Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing 朝阳区建 this upscale New York diner serves up some room on your plate for everything from fresh seafood to barbecued meats, of the classiest burgers in town. 国路87号新光天地6楼D6001号 (西大望路口) // Tue-Fri 11am-1pm; Sat-Sun 9.30am-3pm; (6533 1536), Parkview Green Branch (芳草地 to zingy salads, prawn cocktails, dim sum, roast duck, and enough sweet 店): LG2-20,B2 Floor, No.9, Dongdaqiao Road, Tue-Sat 5.30pm-10pm. Opposite the West treats and cakes to induce the most satisfyingly of food-comas. And it’s all gate, Chaoyang Park, Chaoyang District Chaoyang District,Beijing 朝阳区东大桥路9号朝阳区 LG2 ( (8562 6583), 朝阳公园西门 (6591 8676) 侨福芳草地大厦楼近世贸天阶 prepared by chefs from the hotel’s top restaurants, Senses and Prego, mak- Xidan Branch (西单店): F1&B1, Grand Pacific Mall No.133 Xidan North St.: Xicheng District, ing sure only the finest culinary creations make it to your belly. Chuan Ban (Chinese Sichuan) * Beijing 133 B1 This bright, modestly decorated dining hall 西城区西单北大街号君太百货楼 (近西单大悦城) (6615 9028), Modern Plaza is frequently cited as Beijing’s best Sichuan Branch ( ): 7th Floor, Modern Plaza, There’s also a play room, air castle and magician to keep the non-cham- restaurant. There are classics like lazi ji 当代店 No.40 Zhongguancun St., Haidian District, pagne drinkers (aka kids) happy, so bring the whole family. Retrolicious at (diced chicken buried under a mountain of Beijing 40 7 ( scorched peppers) and Kung Pao chicken. 海淀区中关村大街号当代商城楼人民大学对面) (6269 6726) the Westin Beijing Financial Street – it’s what the cool kids are eating. The mashed potato with pickled cabbage (suancai tudouni, RMB 12) takes the edge Duck de Chine ¥ (Chinese, Peking duck) * off dishes like the spicy bacon (huiguo Good duck is meant to show your guests // Sunday 11:30am-3pm, RMB 458/person (+15 percent service) includes free-flow larou, RMB 18) and the chilli-meets-green how wonderful you are, as much as the Veuve Clicquot champagne, cocktails, wines and beers, RMB 418/person (+15 percent pesto flavor of the “Tingle Pepper Chicken” food. Duck De Chine does that in spades, (Jiaoma Ji, RMB 22) – follow the star ratings with fantastic presentation of its crispy, service) includes free-flow juices and soft drinks, RMB 209 (+15 percent service) for to gauge the burn. succulent duck (RMB188). Daily 11.30am- kids 3-12, under 3s go free. 9B Jinrong St, Xicheng District 西城区金融街乙9号 (6629 // Mon-Fri 7-9am, 10.50am-2pm, 4.50- 2.30pm; 6-10.30pm. Courtyard 4, 1949 7810, [email protected]) 9.30pm; Sat-Sun 7am-10pm 5 Gongyuan // The Hidden City, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang Toutiao, Jianguomennei Dajie, Dongcheng District 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 8881) District 东城区建国门内贡院头条5号 (6512 2277, ext. 6101)

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 71 listings

Ding Ding Xiang (Chinese hot pot) * the Daily Meal’s Top 101 Asian restaurants. Jardin de Jade Jasmine-tea Smoked Duck Middle 8th Restaurant 中八楼 (Yunnan) * This institution continues to expand, with We haven’t even mentioned the teas, spa (RMB78), Xiaolongbao dumplings (RMB Make room for the mushrooms – espe- a number of branches now open. Classier routines and massage therapies, have we? 22), Eight Treasure Rice (Babao Fan, RMB cially the Kungpao – at this busy chain. Hip than most hot-pot joints, this features // Daily 11.30am-11.30pm. 318 Hegezhuang 22) and more. Particularly convivial on the and slightly swanky, without being preten- a spacious dining room of sweaty-faced Village, Cuigezhuang, Chaoyang District朝阳 weekends with Cantonese families gather- tious, this is a celebration of all things patrons enjoying high-grade huo guo in 区崔各庄乡合各庄村318号 (8456 4922 Ext 8, ing for dim-sum feasts. ‘south of the clouds’ – so try crisp-fried their own individual pot. If you have a big 136 0113 7132, 136 0113 7232; www.green-t- // Daily 11am-10.30pm Bldg 6, Jiqingli, worms, or “crossing-the-bridge” noodles, table, you get your own server. The deli- house.com) Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District beef jerky-style yak meat and fresh, wild cious sesame sauce (the recipe is a closely 朝阳区朝外大街吉庆里6号楼 (6552 8688, for herbs galore. guarded secret) is a Beijing classic. Grill 79 (Contemporary Western) * other locations visit www.jade388.com/su/ // Daily 11am-11pm, L404A, South Tower, // Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, Yuanjia International With views this good, Grill 79 would prob- index.aspx) The Place, 9 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District Apartments, Dongzhimenwai, Dongzhong Jie ably make it onto the list even if the food 朝阳区光化路9号世贸天阶南楼L404A (6587 (opposite East Gate Plaza), Dongcheng District was terrible. It’s something of a bonus La Dolce Vita (Italian) 1431, for other locations visit www.mid- 东城区东直门外东中街东环广场对面元嘉国际 then that the kitchen is superb, and sup- This long-standing, quality, and refreshingly dle8th.com) 公寓2层 (6417 9289, for other locations visit ported by one of the most extensive wine unpretentious Italian restaurant is a popu- www.dingdingxiang.com.cn) lists in town. lar choice for young families. Wholesome Migas ¥ (Spanish) * // Daily 6.30-10.30am, noon-2pm, 6-10pm. pasta dishes, well-crafted wood-fired pizzas The boys at Migas have turned a concept Drei Kronen 1308 (German) * 79/F, China World Trade Center Phase 3, 1 and a great range of dessert options come bar into a thriving Mediterranean res- Authentic (in as much as any brauhaus Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳 as standard. taurant, bar and party venue, and one of with a Filipino cover band can be) displays 区建国门外大街1号国贸大酒店79楼 (6505 2299 // Daily 10.30am-10.30pm, 8 Bei Xindong Lu, summer’s rooftop destinations. of armour and brewing kits draw regular ext 6424) Chaoyang District 朝阳区新东路北段8号 (6468 // Daily 10am-3pm, 5pm- late. 6/F, Nali Patio, evening crowds for the superb pork 2894) 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里 knuckle (RMB148) and heavy-duty helles Haidilao (Chinese hot pot) 屯路81号那里花园6层 (5208 6061) (pale lager), wheat and dark beer (brewed Hot pot in China is like religion; everyone’s La Pizza (Italian) on-site, RMB48-108). got their own brand. Either way, the raw At the higher echelon of Beijing pizzeria is Mio (Italian) ¥¥ // Daily 11am-2am. 1/F, Bldg 5, China View, meats and vegetables, cooked communally, this Sanlitun goldfish bowl with a wood- Glitzy Italian fare at the Four Seasons, with Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体 is divine, and the outstanding customer fired oven and Neapolitan manners. a mobile Bellini cart, wheeled straight 东路中国红街5号楼1层(6503 5555) service makes Haidilao a fitting church // Daily 10.30am-3pm, 6-11pm. 1/F, 3.3 Mall, to your table. Chef Marco Calenzo crafts // Daily, 24 hours. 2A Baijiazhuang Lu (beside 33 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里 a superb squash tortellini by hand, and Element Fresh (Contemporary Western) No. 80 Middle School), Chaoyang District 朝屯路33号3.3服装大厦西北角底商(5136 5582) pampers diners with desserts like the Another import from Shanggers, this is 阳区白家庄路甲2号 (八十中学西侧)(6595 2982, deconstructed tiramisu. boutique salads-and-sandwich lunching, for other locations visit http://www.haidilao- Le Little Saigon (SE Asian) //Daily, lunch 11:30am - 2:30pm, dinner with somewhat questionable price tags. huoguo.com) Despite its odd obsession with French- 5:30pm -10:30pm Four Seasons Hotel, 48 The recent revamp also affected the latter. occupied South East Asia, this colonial- Liang Ma Qiao Road, Chaoyang District, 北京四 // Daily Mon-Fri 10am-11pm, Sat-Sun 7am- Hatsune ¥ (Japanese) themed eatery is saved by its excellent beef 季酒店亮马桥路48号, 朝阳区(5695 8888) 11pm. 833, Building 8, 19 Sanlitun Village Less a Japanese than a California roll joint, pho, select wine lists, and stunning rooftop South, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳 Hatsune is now an old favorite among the views. It’s a little bit good. Missa (Contemporary Western) * 区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区8号楼833 sake-swilling, sushi-swallowing set, though // Daily 11.30-midnight 141 Jiugulou Dajie, Whether it is the tender, imported cuts of (6417 1318) less so among sashimi purists. Dongcheng District 东城区旧鼓楼大街141号 meat or the long list of expertly made and // Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10pm 2/F, (6401 8465) creative cocktails going down your gullet, Ellingen Brauhaus (German) Heqiao Bldg C, 8A Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang you can’t really go wrong at this refined Dead-on authenticity in the unlikely District 朝阳区光华路甲8号和乔大厦C座2层 The Local (American) relaxed lounge like restaurant. Highly environs of Financial Street means a spa- (6581 3939) This does exactly what it says on the tin: recommended cious beer hall, and big shareable plates Some of the best Happy Hour deals and // Daily 6pm-late. 32-33, 3/F, Bldg 3, Sanlitun of sausage, salad and the specialty, pork Home Plate BBQ (American) * pub grub the Sanlitun bar district has to Village North, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯 cheeks in red-wine sauce (RMB117). Best of Scruffy looks and laid-back staff belie the offer. The staff are friendly, the barstaff are Village北区3号楼3层32-33 (137 1851 7917) all, no schlepping to Sanlitun. popularity of this entry-level brick-smoker skilled at cocktails and they even have a // Mon-Fri 11am-12am. B114-115, 2 barbecue joint, that blossoms in the sunny 24-hour delivery service. Modo Urban Deli Jinchengfang Jie, Financial Street, Xicheng months. Pulled-pork sandwiches are the // Daily 6pm-2am. 4 Gongti Bei Lu (opposite (Contemporary Western)* District, Xicheng District 西城区西城区金城坊 favorites, followed by baby-back rib racks, 1949 The Hidden City), Chaoyang District 朝阳 Yates wine lodge this is not. Unconven- 街2号金融街购物中心B114-115号 (157 1284 but lesser dishes like the rib tips, sides 区工体北路4号院机电研究院内 (6591 9525) tional and great fun, this compact eatery 4602) and burgers are just as good. Beer and was designed around an ever-changing bourbons are taken care of, too. Little Fat Sheep (Chinese hot pot) * selection of fine wines. Serves up fresh Eudora Station // Daily 11am-10pm. 35 Xiaoyun Lu courtyard Ever-popular Mongolian-style hotpot res- tapas style food and original finger foods. No need to mind the doors – this Lido (20m north of Xiaoyun Lu intersection, first taurant franchise, but don’t let the chain’s The luxury sandwiches are fantastic for pitstop’s longevity tells you all you need right), Chaoyang District 朝阳区霄云路35号院 adorable sheep mascot fool you. Xi Yang picnics, with the smoked salmon and the to know. An American-style restaurant-bar, 过霄云路路口,往北走20米,到第一个路口右转 Yang has world domination in mind. With Cuban (RMB68), complete with crispy pork it caters comfortably for the local scene (5128 5584) branches springing up across the States, belly, is one of the best sarnies ever. with a pool table, sports TV, rooftop deck, it’s hard to contend with the quality on // Sun-Thu noon-10pm, Fri-Sat noon-10.30pm. patio – did we mention the pool? Really, Ibn Battouta (African) offer. Best experienced with your own loud, 3/F, Sanlitun Village South(close to Element this place is solid: great beer selection and Hidden away in the depths of Gongti, this drunken flock. Fresh), 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝 classic pub grub. Regular live bands keep charming little Moroccan eatery serves up // 209 Dongzhimennei Dajie, Dongcheng 阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区3楼(近 the weekends swinging. superbly authentic north Africa fare at a District 东城区东直门内大街209号 (8400 1669 新元素) // Daily, 11am-2am. 6 Fangyuan Xilu, modest price. Known for its excellent, at- See www.littlesheephotpot.com for more loca- Chaoyang District 朝阳区芳园西路6号 (6437 tentive service, and cosy atmosphere. tions and hours.) Moment Café (Cafés) 8331, www.eudorastation.com) // Daily 11.30am-3pm, 6-10pm. 4-103, China We would like to find out which embassy View, 2 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝阳 Lost Heaven ¥ (Chinese / SE Asian) Moment Café is stealing their sandwiches Flamme (Contemporary Western) * 区工体东路2号中国红街大厦4-103(8587 1255, An emphasis on Yunnan characterises this from. There’s no way the crepes, coffee and Expensive steaks are now invading Beijing. 139 1141 5052) menu’s fresh journey through the SE Asia panini here can be this good at this cheap Flamme (pronounced ‘Flom,’ apparently) passage, with a grandiose yet a price legally. remains top value, however, especially on Inagiku (Japanese) dark teak interior. // Daily 10.30am-11pm. B1-525, Sanlitun Soho, 2-4-1 Tuesdays, while bar staff maintain an This Beijing branch of one of Tokyo’s // Daily noon-2pm, 5pm-10.30 (bar open till Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北 eclectic (and genuinely exciting) cocktail oldest and most celebrated restaurants is 1am). Ch’ien Men 23, 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, 路三里屯Soho B1-525 (8590 0724) menu. as near to perfection as you’re likely to find. Dongcheng District 东城区前门东大街23号 // Daily 11am-10.30pm Sun-Thur; 11am-11pm Deceptively simple yet finely crafted, the (8516 2698) Morton’s of Chicago ¥¥ (American) * Fri-Sat. S4-33, Third Floor, Village South, 19 handmade Inaniwa udon (RMB 80) is not to Meat so tender the knife falls through it: Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯 be missed. Luce ¥ (contemporary Italian) ritzy Morton’s deserves the worldwide 路19号三里屯VILLAGE南区3层S4-33室 (6417 // Daily 11am-3pm, 6-10.30pm. Rm 315, 3/F, Low key and stylish, this compact Italian praise. Expensive, but where else are you 8608) Park Life, Yintai Centre, 2 Jianguomenwai eatery earns its place on the list thanks to going to get steak this good? (Try the Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国门外大街2 a combination of inventive menu options RMB550 set menu if you want to save cash) Four Corners (SE Asian) 号银泰中心悦生活3层315室 (8517 2838) (arugula salad with crab and orange) and // Mon-Sat 5-11pm, Sun 5-10pm. 2/F, Regent Chef Jun Trinh took a break from his attentive wait staff. A rooftop terrance is Hotel, 99 Jinbao Jie, Dongcheng District 东城 celebrity TV work to host this part-Viet- great for summer views over Gulou. 区金宝街99号丽晶酒店二层 (6523 7777) namese venue, serving up steaming bowls // Sun-Thu 12pm-2am; Fri-Sat 12pm-4am. 138 of pho with zesty, fresh rolls, as well as a Jiugulou Daijie, Dongcheng District 东城区旧 Mosto ¥(Contemporary Western) great bar. 鼓楼大街138号 (8402 4417) A perpetually busy lunch and evening spot, // Daily 11am-midnight. 27 Dashibei Hutong thanks to chef Daniel Urdaneta’s skill for (near west end of Yandai Xiejie), Xicheng Maison Boulud ¥ ¥ (French) ** modernising South American-style dishes District 西城区大石碑胡同27号烟袋斜街西口附 The heavy hitter. This French bistro par like ceviche and risotto in his open kitchen. 近)((6401 7797) excellence, located in the former Legation // Sun-Thu noon-2.30pm, 6-10pm; Fri-Sat Quarter, earns its spot with food that regu- noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Ganges (Indian) larly garners praise from all clientele. Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路 Conveniently located above popular // Mon-Fri 11.30am-2pm, 6-10pm; Sat-Sun 81号那里花园3层 (5208 6030) Irish sports bar Paddy O’Sheas, this solid (brunch) 11am-4pm, 6-10pm. Ch’ien Men 23, Indian curry house provides the perfect 23 Qianmen Dongdajie, Dongcheng District Mr Shi’s Dumplings (Chinese Beijing) * post-match culinary accompaniment. Or 东城区前门东大街23号 (6559 9200) The ultimate in Beijing-style dumplings, put another way: it’s what you’ll be craving they really don’t come better than this. Find after eight pints of beer. Makye Ame (Tibetan) it and you’ll never go elsewhere. // Daily 11am to 10.30pm. 2nd Floor, 28 Determined to prove that Tibetan cuisine // 74 Baochao Hutong, Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongzhimen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang District consists of more than just yak-butter tea, Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同 Dongzhimen Branch: 朝阳区东直门外大街28号 the Beijing branch of this nationwide chain 74号 (8405 0399, 131 6100 3826) 2层 (6417-0900) Sanlitun Branch: 朝阳区工体北 serves up nomadic classics such as curried 路13号世贸百货1号楼2楼202室 (64160181) potatoes and roast lamb. The original cosy Najia Xiaoguan (Chinese) See www.ganges-restaurant.com/en/ for more Xiushui location is great for winter. A hugely popular Manchu restaurant, locations. Indian Kitchen (Indian) * // Daily 10-midnight, 11A Xiushui Nanjie, first opened by an emperor’s doctor, you The go-to curry house among Beijing’s Jianguomenwai, Chaoyang District 朝阳区建国 choose your dishes from a carved wooden Green T (Contemporary Chinese) homesick Indian community, this ever- 门外秀水南街甲11号, (6506 9616 tray: 18-hour stewed huang tanzi, fatty Although the inspiration is ‘Tang Dynasty popular no-nonsense friendly restaurant ox hoof,crispy fried shrimp, chicken with bathhouse,’ the effect is more ‘Whoah.’ An has built up a solid reputation thanks to its Mercante ¥ (Italian) * walnut. Reservations are required to get indoor tea bath occupies a slate-tiled space, wide range of quality dishes served up at Old World family charm in an intimate a place in this two-storey, quintessentially scattered with artistic curios (a full-size affordable prices. The flavorful Rogan Josh hutong setting. Time (and, occasionally, Imperial China restaurant. horse doubles as a lamp). Add vegetable is a particular favorite. service) slows with a rustic menu from Bo- // Daily 1130am-10pm. 10 Yonganli (south allotment, outdoor Jacuzzi, wooden trestle // Daily 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30-11pm . 2/F, 2 logna offering an assortment of homemade of the LG Twin Towers, west of 119 Middle table and 1,500-sqm villa filled with man- Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三 pastas and seasonal mains. School), Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang nequins, mirrors and beds and you get the 里屯北小街2号2楼 (6462 7255) // Tue-Sun 6-10.30pm. 4 Fangzhuanchang District 朝阳区建国门外大街永安里10号(双子 sense that anything could happen (and Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区方砖厂胡同座大厦南侧, 119中学西侧)(6567 3663, 6568 does). The space has a design award by Jade Garden (Chinese Shanghainese) 4号 (8402 5098) 6553) Wallpaper* magazine and came third in Southern cuisine in a sophisticated setting.

72 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com www.southmemory.com) // Daily 11am-11pm, 55 Xingfu Yicun, Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸福一村55号 (6413 Southern Barbarian (Chinese regional) * 0899) Yunnan’s wide selection of savory, sour and sweet, all in a smart hutong setting, with a Ricci Café (Cafés) ton of beer selections to boot. An excellent example of how Italian sensi- // Daily 11am-11pm. 107 Baochao Hutong, bilities can meld peaceably into a Chinese Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街宝钞胡同 context, Ricci offers a range of fusion crea- 107号(6401 3318) tions, like Sichuan spicy-chicken focaccia (RMB45) and Sichuan spicy mocha coffee. Steak Exchange Restaurant+Bar¥¥ (Con- It’s a paradise for sweet-toothed folk, too. temporary Western) * // Daily 8am-9.30pm 1/F, Keji Dasha The bill is hopefully on the company kuai at Tower D, Bldg 8, Tsinghua Science Park, 1 this opulent eatery, where charcoal-grilled Zhongguancun Donglu, Chaoyang District 朝 cuts of 250-day, grain-fed Australian Angus 阳区中关村东路1号清华科技园8号楼科技大厦D start from around RMB428 and merrily 座1层 (8215 8826 http://riccicafe.com) spiral. But the meat is unquestionably succulent, and cooked exactly to order. Quality Rumi (Middle Eastern) seafood and gorgeous desserts, too. Worlds away from the filth of nearby dirty // Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30-10.30pm. Niajo ¥ (Spanish)* Bar Street, Rumi dishes out plentiful help- InterContinental Beijing Financial Street, 11 Order the paella (their star dish) together ings of traditional Persian stews and tasty Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District 西城区金融街11号 The Rug (Cafés)* with some tapas and be automatically kebabs. Try the juicy Chicken Shish kebab, 北京金融街洲际酒店 (5852 5921) With ingredients supplied by local organic transported to Spain. With homely Mediter- the tastier cousin to cheap chuan’r. farms like Dahe and De Run Wu, and an ranean influences and a charming manage- // Daily 11.30am-12am, Gongti Beilu and Third Starfish ¥ (Seafood) * emphasis on sustainability, this Chaoyang ment, Niajo is a prefect option to enjoy a Ring Road 工体北路和三环内,兆龙饭店对面 Beijing’s leading oyster bar, Starfish is Park café’s menu of locally milled bagels is pleasant meal at the heart of Sanlitun. Pro (8454 3838) among the very best seafood restaurants a hit with green types, bored foreign moms tip: a fantastic set-lunch deal is also offered. in town. Renowned for its friendly, warm and freelance Macbook types. // Daily 12.00am - 10.30pm. 3/F, Nali Patio, 81 Saveurs de Coree (Korean) atmosphere, this stylish low-key restaurant // 7.30pm - 11pm Daily. Bldg 4, Lishui Jiayuan, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路 This upmarket Korean bistro has undergone is great for late-night dates, or just hanging Chaoyang Gongyuan Nanlu (opposite 81号那里花园3层 (5208 6052) several changes in recent years, not least out along the large wooden bar and enjoy- Chaoyang Park South Gate), Chaoyang District its move away from the hipper-than-thou ing an Irish rock with a craft beer. 朝阳区朝阳公园南路丽水嘉园4号楼(朝阳公园南 NOLA (American) confines of Nanluguxiang. Fortunately, // 22-1 Dongzhimen Wai, Chaoyang District 朝门对面)(8550 2722) N’Orleans finds a dark-wood home in the menu remains largely intact. The Shin 阳区东直门外大街22-1号(6416 5499) the leafy embassy area, with a jazz sound- Ramyun is among the best in Beijing, while Tube Station track, shrimp and grits, gumbo, fried the Wagyu barbecued beef is almost too S.T.A.Y. (French) // YaYunCun Branch 亚运村分店: 17 YiYuan, chicken, jambalaya and decent-enough good to be true. Luxury dining with three-Michelin-starred Anhui BeiLi, DaTun Road, ChaoYang District.朝 po’boys – yes’m. Excellent Cajun snacks, // Daily noon-11pm. 128-1 Xiang’er Hutong, chef Alléno Yannick’s back-to-basics kitchen 阳区大屯路安慧北里逸园17号,GongTi Branch craft beers and cocktail also make NOLA Dongcheng District 东城区香饵胡同128-1号 concept, managed by the youthful team 工体分店: Inside Workers’ Stadium North Gate a popular watering hole. Great service (5741 5753) of Maxime Gilbert as ‘Chef de Cuisine’ (next to Club Vic’s), ChaoYang District. comes as standard. executing the quarterly menus, and Florian 朝阳区工人体育场北路工人体育场北门院内VICS // Mon-Fri 8am-11pm, Sat-Sun 10.30am-11pm. Couteau working the ‘pastry library.’ Classic 酒吧旁,BeiDa Branch北大分店: 1 FuYuanMen 11A Xiushui Nanjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 dishes usually include dishes such as steak, (400 meters north of Beijing University west 秀水南街11号 (8563 6215) foie gras, rack of lamb, plus a spit roast and gate, on the northwest corner of theintersec- grill for simple fine-dining. tion), HaiDian District.,海淀区福缘门1号 (从 Paulaner Brauhaus (German) // Daily 11:30am -2:30pm; 5:30pm-10pm; 北大西门往北走400米,在路口的西北角),BeiTai The grand old man of Beijing brauhauses, Sundays 11am- 4pm. Shangri La, Valley Wing, Branch 北太平庄:Building B, YouYan Building, 2 Paulaner delivers the Teutonic goods in the Level 1, 29 Zizhuyuan Road, Beijing 紫竹院路29 BeiTaiPing Zhuang Bridge, XiCheng District.西 hands of lederhosen-clad staff from the 号北京香格里拉饭店 (6841 2211, Ext. 6727) 城区北太平庄桥2号有研大厦B座,Solana Branch provinces. It can be pricey but is usually 蓝色港湾:Solana Center, above SAGA Cinema, worthwhile, especially during Oktoberfest. Susu (SE Asian) ChaoYang District.朝阳区朝阳公园6号院蓝色港 // Daily 11am-1am. Kempinski Hotel, 50 The first step is finding it. Follow that up 湾国际商区10号楼L-BS-47(传奇电影院楼上一层) Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 with a dreamlike renovated courtyard, ex- 亮马桥路50号凯宾斯基饭店 (6465 3388 ext. tensive wine list and a listing of top-notch Union Bar and Grill (American) 5732) Vietnamese curries, banh mi sandwiches, The definitive US-style diner in Beijing, Un- stews, soups and la Vong fish. ion’s extensive menu – from eggs Benedict Pie-Squared (American) // Tue- Sun 11.30am-11pm. 10 Qianliang to baby back ribs – covers all bases and Detroit-style ‘square’ deep-pan pizza. Gets Hutong Xixiang, Dongcheng District 东城区钱 hours, served by friendly staff. The warm its name from when pizzas were baked 粮胡同西巷10号 (8400 2699) atmosphere tempts many to stay all day. in industrial motor-parts trays back in the // Mon-Fri 11am-11pm,Sat-Sun 11am- 1940s. Italian-American Strombolis, are a Taverna ¥ ¥ (Contemporary Western) midnight. S6-31, 3/F, Bldg 6, Sanlitun Village savory upgrade on hot pockets, and well Sherpa’s (Delivery) Slick service helps this faux-rustic lunchtime South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝 worth the order. OK. It is not technically a restaurant but favourite into our list, with typical dishes 阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区6号楼3层 // Daily 10am-10pm, Xiang Jiang Bei Sherpa’s is still an essential service: Your fa- including salmon steak, ribs and salads. De- S6-31(6415 9117) Lu, Ca thay View Garden (Behind DDs vourite restaurants delivered to you. Across pendable, slightly dull even, but solid fare. Supermarket), Shunyi District, 顺义区香江北 three cities, Beijing, Shanghai and Suzhou: // Daily noon-2.30pm, 6-10.30pm. 1949 Veggie Table (Vegetarian) * 路,观唐中式宅院(8430 8859) 258 restaurants. 75,817 dishes ready to The Hidden City, Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu , Proving that Beijing-style vegetarian cuisine order. Have whatever you want delivered Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北路4号院 (6501 is by no means the exclusive preserve of Pinotage ¥ (South African) * fast and fresh. 8882) Buddhist monks and soppy Jack Johnson A seasonal blend of Dutch, English // www.sherpa.com.cn fans, this superbly honed eatery offers and regional African influences, this Temple Restaurant Beijing (TRB) ¥ ¥ some of the very best sandwiches – veg- contemporary and stylish eatery has an (Contemporary Western) ** etarian or otherwise – found anywhere in impressive selection of fine import-quality Setting is everything here, especially if the city. The shiitake mushroom burger is meats, and wines to match. The traditional it’s fashioned inside a restored Buddhist a sensation, while the crispy baked home borewor ground beer-sausage (RMB100) is temple. The bold contemporary European fries and fresh homemade dips will keep tender and sweet, while the red-wine pork cuisine is fitting in majesty and the service you coming back. tenderloin (RMB120) makes the trip out to alone is worthy of worship. // Daily 10.30am to 11.30pm (last order Shunyi worth it. // Daily 11.30am–2.30pm, 6–10pm. 23 10.30pm) 19 Wudaoying Hutong, Dongcheng // Building 2, 2-105, 1st Floor Sanlitun SOHO, Songzhusi Temple, Shatan Beijie, Dongcheng District 东城区五道营胡同19号. (6446 2073) 8 Gongtibeilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体北 District 东城区沙滩北街嵩祝寺23号 (8400 2232, 路8号三里屯soho2号楼2-105 (5785 3538/5785 www.temple-restaurant.com/) Vineyard Cafe on the River (British) 3539) Mon - Fri. 11.30am - 2pm New Vineyard offshoot opposite of the Li- 5.30pm - 9pm Sat - Sun 11am - 10pm Bar Tori Tei (Japanese) angma River. Menu features British classics open. Mon to Sun. 4pm - 12am Inside Japanese izakaya-style pub and eatery like Fish & Chips and Bangers & Mash. The Chuangyi Yuan, 3A Shunhuang Lu (near BD stocked with Japanese beers and sake. Its breezy terrace is primed for a pint of the flower market ), Sunhe Township, Ch aoyang specialty lies in grilled yakitori – chicken handcraft beer or a carafe of Pimms. District .朝阳区孙河乡顺黄路甲3号创意园内(近 skewers and other meat and veggie sticks. //Daily Tu-Fr 1130am-3pm 6pm-12am 北东花卉市场)(84595868) Lively atmosphere and best in large groups. kitchen closes at 10pm, Sa-Su 1130am-3ppm //Daily 5:30pm – 1am, 8 Xinyuanli Zhongjie, 6pm-12am, Liangmahe Nanlu, west side of Chaoyang District, 朝阳区新源里中街8号 Xindong Lu, across the street from Yuyang (64614513) Hotel, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区亮马河南路新东路西侧渔阳饭店对面(8532 5335) Sake Manzo (Japanese) ** Traktirr Pushkin (Russian) The barmen here are serious about their By no means high-end, you visit Traktirr (or Wagas (Contemporary Western) sake. Boasting one of the best stocked drinks its dearer cousin round the corner) for the Quality eats with minimal pretension. This cabinets in town with over 60 different sakes boisterous nighttime atmosphere and array stylish, no-fuss Shanghai rival to Element on offer, this super-cool little eatery is the of Russian peasant fare: anything crock- Fresh offers some of the best and most perfect place to unwind after a hard day’s baked is usually good, as is sharing a range affordable Western lunch options in town. toil. The sashimi is fresh to the cut, and the of starters. Plus: copious cheap vodka (and The zesty carrot-and-zucchini cake is a beer-marinated chicken is out of this world. suspicious homebrew). crowd pleaser. One of the very best and least appreciated // 10am-midnight. 1A Xiyangguan Hutong, // Daily 8am-10pmS8-33, 3/F, 8 building, 19 restaurants in town. Beizhongjie, Dongzhimennei Dajie, South Sanlitun Street, Chaoyang District 朝阳 // Daily 6pm-midnight. 7A Tuanjiehu Dongcheng District 东城区东直门内大街北中街区三里屯Village南区三层 (6416-5829) Beisantiao, Chaoyang District 朝阳区团结湖北西羊管胡同甲1号 (6403 1690) 三条甲7号(6436 1608) White Nights (Russian) Transit ¥¥ (Chinese Sichuan) * You certainly don’t go to White Nights for South Memory (Chinese Sichuan) Sichuan is known for its blazing spices and the service. Or for the food. Or the tiny This chain restaurant redefines Hunan its equally hot girls. While the latter are up helpings. But people do go. Oh yes – it’s for cuisine, with exquisite food and an elegant to you, the creative minds at Transit have the cheap booze. atmosphere. The trademark shilixiang made some fiery additions to the classical, // Daily 11am-midnight. 13A Beizhong Jie (off Purple Haze niurou (fragrant beef), duojiao shuangse chili-thumping canon, and they will charge Dongzhimennei Dajie), Dongcheng District 东 Given Beijing’s lack of white sand beaches yutou (dual-colour spiced fish head) and you for that knowledge. But unlike many 城区东直门内大街北中街甲13号 (8402 9595) and ladyboy bars, Purple Haze has to make meltingly tender frog dishes are among the equally expensive joints, this is high-end do for the best Thai experience in town. favorites with local gourmands. Chinese dining at its best. The Woods (American) * Has all the classics like veggie spring rolls // Daily 11am-10pm. 2/F, 230-232, Fenglian // Daily 12-2.30pm, 6 -10pm. N4-36, Sanlintun New York native-owned, Manhattan-style (RMB40), papaya salad (RMB46) and curries Plaza, 18 Chaoyangmen Wai Dajie, Chaoyang Village North, 11 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang restaurant, tucked in amongst the skyscrap- (RMB44-180) – but our pick’s the seafood District 朝阳区朝外大街18号丰联广场2楼230- District 朝阳区三里屯路11号三里屯Village北区 ers of CBD: you can’t get more Big Apple pad Thai (RMB45). 232号 (6588 1797 for other locations, visit N4-36号 (6417 9090) than that.

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 73 listings

// Daily 12pm-10pm, Central Park Tower 1, Another brainchild of the artist Fang Lijun, Beer Mania ¥ 1038 2089) Suite 101, No. 6 Chaowai Dajie, 朝外大街6号新 the mastermind behind South Silk Road, With no pint below RMB50 on tap, the 城国际1号搂101 (6533 6380) Hunan-style cuisine (e.g. duojiao yutao, Belgian-run Beer Mania really is for those Enoterra fish head with pickled chili; hongshao rou, who are manic about their Trappist beer. Looking for an affordable glass of wine braised fatty pork; lei qiezi, a cold, stone A pool table and new kitchen are welcome with that date? Look no further than Nali bowl of refreshing mashed eggplant) in a additions to the large lager list. Patio’s wine center. Although the food classical Chinese room with a nice view of // Daily 2pm-late. 1/F, Taiyue Fang, Nansanlitun leaves a bit to be desired, the selections Lotus Lane and Qianhai. Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区南三里屯路泰乐坊 are vast, and if anything, you can enjoy // Daily 11am-11pm. 51-10 Di’anmen Xidajie, 1层 (6500 0559, http://www.beermania.cn) a nice cheese plate with that tart glass in Lotus Lane, Xicheng District 西城区地安 of vino. 门西大街51-10号天荷坊内 (6617 2696). Also, Black Sun // Daily 10am-2am, 4/F Sanlutun Nali Patio, 81 Sat-Wed 11am-2.30pm, 5-10.30pm; Thu-Fri There’s not a lot of choice for locals Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路 11am-3pm, 5-10.30pm Opposite Gongti 100, around the Chaoyang Park area. With 81号那里花园D405室 (5208 6076) Bldg 1, Jiqingli, Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District darts, pool, food and pub quiz, Black Sun 朝阳区工体西路吉庆里1号楼(工体100对面) is probably the best, though a depressing First Floor (6551 0806) air does occasionally pervade. A recent First Floor is like that friend who’s too change of management has helped this. popular to properly enjoy their company. Yun’er Small Town (Yunnanese) // Daily 5.30pm-3am. Chaoyang Park West At weekends, it gets aggressively full, with Folksy Yunnanese fare on Beiluoguxiang. Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园西门 regulars and the passing tourist trade all Fragrant dishes including the jasmine bulbs (6593 6909) baying at the bar. A good place to meet with scrambled eggs, lemongrass shrimp, new friends, perhaps. and banana leaf wrapped bolete mush- The Brick // Daily, 4pm-late, Sanlitun Beixiaojie, Tel:(86 10) 6416 3469 rooms will keep us crawling back. A Cheers-style atmosphere ensures you’ll Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯北小街 (6413 // Daily 10am-11pm, 84 Beiluoguxiang, find this neighbourhood drinking hole-in- 0587, first.floorbeijing.com) Dongcheng District, 东城区北锣鼓巷84号 the brick-wall faux dive bar either cliquey Wang Jia Sha (Shanghainese) (8404 2407) or inclusive. The heavy-duty cocktails Fubar Modern Shanghai cuisine – popular with (including the devastatingly boozy RMB80 Long past its prime, this basement bar Hong Kong celebrities – famed for its crab- Yuxiang Renjia (Chinese Sichuan) Terminator) are probably needed for the has ditched all the speakeasy pretence meat dumplings. Try the spiced-salt ribs Most branches maintain simple decora- bizarre Wednesday pub quiz. that made the place its name, and instead (RMB62) for a bit of Adam action. tions, with black-and-white photos of // Daily 4pm-late. Unit 2-11, Bldg 2, Tianzhi hopes that live music and plentiful pours Reservation (86 10) 6416 3469 traditional houses, river towns in the south, Jiaozi, 31 Guangqu Lu (northeast corner of are enough to coast on the legacy. Plenty S1-30a Taikoo Li Sanlitun(on the third floor of and strings of dried red chilis and garlic Shuangjing Qiao), Chaoyang District 朝阳区 think it is, though. i.t shop)朝阳区三里屯路19号院太古里1号楼3层 hanging on the wall. So, too, is their menu: 双井桥东北角广渠路31号院天之骄子2号楼底商 // 4pm-2am Sunday to Thursday, 4pm-4am S1-30a号商铺 old-fashion and reliably good. The lazi ji is 2-11 (134 2616 6677) Friday and Saturday. 8 Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang crispy but not too greasy, the pepper-sauce District, Workers’ Stadium East Gate 朝阳区工 Wu Li Xiang (Chinese regional) * noodle, with spinach, is filling and refresh- Centro ¥ 体北路8号工人体育场东门内 (6593 8227) Impressive views don’t detract from the ing. Assorted confections are guaranteed Although it’s no longer quite the go-to exquisitely presented cuisine of Chef Kam, to offer comfort to numbed-and-burned place for beautiful people it once was, Cen- George’s ¥ * especially the famous dim sum. Swanky tongues, too. tro still draws a cute crowd with its nightly Taking the Q Bar formula and ditching the classics from all the main culinary regions // Daily 11am-2pm, 5-9pm 5/F, Lianhe Dasha jazz performaces, spacious and recently absurd serving system and mind-numbing of China, like Sichuan and Hong Kong, (Union Plaza), 20 Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, renovated lounge areas and classic drinks waits has served original mixologist George include “Monk Jump Over the Wall,” Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳门外大街20号联 like the blue-cheese martini. Zhou and his clientele well. The chic looks braised pork in oyster sauce, poached Man- 合大厦五层 (6588 3841 for other locations visit // Open 24 hours. 1/F, Kerry Hotel, 1 are more than matched by the superb darin fish as well as the usual “face” items, www.yuxiangrenjia.com) Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路 cocktails (usually RMB48-80), with even such as sea cucumber, bird’s nest soup and 1号北京嘉里大饭店1层 (6561 8833) old-timers like Martinis and Margaritas abalone: claim one of the 11 private rooms poured to perfection. for maximum bragging rights. TOP 50 BARS AND CLUBS China Bar ¥¥ // Daily 3pm-2am. Near Gate 12 of Workers’ // Daily 11am-2pm, 5pm-10pm. 2-3/F, Traders Top views from the 65th floor and flash Stadium East Gate, Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang Upper East Hotel, Beijing, 2 Dongsihuan Beilu, About This guide represents our editors’ top drinks are the attractions on offer at this District 朝阳区工体东路工人体育场东门内12号 Chaoyang District 朝阳区东四环北路2号北京上 50 picks, and includes some That’s Beijing ad- hip hotel bar. 进口 (6553 6299) 东盛贸饭店二三层 (5907 8406) vertisers. Bars rated(*) have been personally // Sun-Thu 5pm-1am, Fri-Sat 5pm-2am. 65/F, reviewed by our experts, and scored accord- Park Hyatt, 2 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang Glen ¥ Xiangmanlou (Chinese regional) ing to pours, experience and affordability. District 朝阳区建国门外大街2号柏悦酒店65层 Experiences can vary at Glen (we’ve Xiang Man Lou is little-known among the (8567 1838/40) endured poor service and drinks that are expat community, but many Beijingers Apothecary ¥ * scandalous at the price), which is located say it has the best duck in town. The Golf ball-sized ice cubes, infusions, fussy Chocolate ¥ in a decidedly downbeat compound. But restaurant looks like a New York diner bar-tending and (allegedly) snooty staff It’s impossible to discuss Chocolate whisky lovers have been known to swear from the outside, and the booth seating by have made the Japanese-style Apothecary without mentioning gold leaf, dwarves, by its selections and dark, intimate atmos- the window adds to that. However, Xiang bar a divisive choice to visit. See for your- cabaret dancers and oddly-friendly Russian phere. See for yourself. serves traditional duck, with all the fixings, self: they also serve quality Cajun food. women. Timed right, a visit can be raucous // 6.30pm-2am. 203, 2/F, Taiyue Suites like pancakes (thin but with the chewy // Tue-Sun 6pm-late (kitchen closes 1am). 3/F, fun, with bottles of spirits from around Hotel Beijing, 16 Nansanlitun Lu, Chaoyang resistance that is key) and deliciously fresh Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District RMB200, cocktails under RMB50 (includ- District 朝阳区南三里屯路16号泰悦豪庭2楼203 accoutrements. At RMB118 for a whole bird 朝阳区三里屯路81号那里花园3层 (5208 6040) ing the absinthe-based Flaming Armaged- 室 (6591 1191) (with condiments), it’s also a steal. Large don) and regular floor shows. Best to avoid portions of genuine, Shandong-style food Atmosphere ¥¥ this cavernous slice of underground kitsch Great Leap Brewery 大跃啤酒 ¥ * are also available. Beijing’s highest bar, on the 80th floor of after midnight, though. The bar that began the whole Beijing // Daily 11am-4.20pm,4.50pm-10pm. Xinyuan the 1,082-ft China World Tower, offers 300+ // Daily 7pm-6am. 19 Ritan Beilu, Chaoyang microbrewing frenzy (yes, frenzy) special- Xili Zhongjie (opposite Yuyang Hotel), swanky cocktails from RMB65 with 360-de- District 朝阳区日坛北路19号 (8561 3988) izes in idiosyncratic, local-style brews Chaoyang District 朝阳区新源西里中街(渔阳 gree views of the 700AQI PM2.5. (RMB25-40) with intriguing flavors – their 饭店斜对面) (6460 6711) Daily 10am-10pm // Mon-Fri noon-2am, Sat and Sun noon- Cuju * Sichuan peppercorn ale was memorably Chaoyang Park West Gate, near No.8 Hot 4am. 80/F, China World Summit Wing, 1 This tiny sports bar is frequently packed good. It’s also popular enough that reser- Spring 朝阳区农展南路1号朝阳公园西门(近八号 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District 朝 with NFL fans but don’t expect rowdy jocks. vations are recommended. 公馆) (65950969) 阳区建国门外大街1号北京国贸大酒店80 (6505 Great Moroccan food and a connoisseur’s // 5pm-late Tuesday to Friday, 2pm-late 2299 ext. 6433) selection of rums and beers lure a more Saturday. 2-10pm Sunday.6 DouJiao Hutong, Xinjiang Red Rose (Xinjiang) * sophisticated set. It’s popular with the Dongcheng District 东城区豆角胡同6号 (5717 Beijing’s most famous Xinjiang restaurant The Bar * owner’s friends but all are welcome. 1399, 156 1121 8019, www.greatleapbrewing. serves some of the tenderest lamb skewers This relative newcomer (sometimes known // 28 Xiguan Hutong, off Dongsibeidajie com, contact reservations@greatleapbrew- around, matched by enormous servings of as Third Floor) has years of savvy behind 细管胡同28号东四北大街 (6407 9782) ing.com) dishes like dapan ji (a chicken, potato and it, meaning you can absolutely trust the pepper stew), latiaozi (noodles with a spicy cocktail menu. Manager Jack Zhou and his d.Lounge ¥ * Haze * tomato sauce) and baked flatbread (nang). brother offer sterling service, while the The fancy spelling tells you all you need to Hugely popular with the so-called ‘under- Nightly performances (starting at 7.40pm) décor is handsome and low-key. know about this chic cocktail lounge in a ground’ lot, despite the taxi-unfriendly feature live music and belly dancers with // Daily 4pm-late. 3/F Friendship Youth Hostel, stunning archway location. Great on school location, basement club Haze’s DJ sets snakes – you might find yourself dragged (100m west of Sanlitun Houjie), Chaoy ang nights, this place can become horribly feature techno, electro, nu-disco (really, on-stage to join in. District 朝阳区北三里屯友谊青年酒店三层(3.3大 busy at weekend. anything ending in ‘o’) to Beijing’s po- // Daily 10.30am-11pm. Inside 7 Xingfu Yicun 厦西侧) (6415 9954) // Daily 8pm-late. Courtyard 4, Gongti Beilu faced White Rabbit clubber crowd. It is alley, opposite Workers’ Stadium North Gate, (opposite the Rock and Roll Club), Chaoyang closed over the summer, however. Chaoyang District 朝阳区工人体育场北门对面 The Bar at Migas ¥ District 朝阳区工体北路4号 (6593 7710) // Daily 10.30-2pm. B1/F, Guanghua Lu Soho, 幸福一村7巷内 (6415 5741) A place to dance and prowl, perhaps, Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区光华路 rather than a drinks destination, TBAM, as The Den 敦煌光华路Soho地下1层 (5900 6128) Yi House (Contemporary Western) no one calls it, focuses on upscale local At the opposite end of the 24-hour drink- Nestled in the confines of the 798 Art DJs to get the party started. Good-enough ing spectrum from Centro, The Den is a Heaven District, Yi’s great tasting brunch is cocktails range from RM55-70 but mostly seedy sports joint that starts off sedate A purgatory of bottles, bongs and bedrag- bettered only by their wide range of it’s about the music, man. and grows steadily sadder as night turns gled English teachers, Heaven sells the cocktail concoctions. Sundays offer jazz // Sunday to Wednesday 6pm-2am, Thursday to day. It can get rough and ready come cheapest alcoholic takeaways in town. You brunches with lobster and champagne. to Friday 6pm-late. 6/F, Nali Patio, 81 Sanlitun dawn. Solid (cheap) menu, good location can also hang around and appreciate the // Daily 11am-3pm, 6pm-12am. 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路81号 and those opening times earn it a place. afterlife (clientele) if you want. Caveat: the Lu, 798 Yishu Qu, No.1 706 Houjie, Chaoyang // Open 24 hours. 4 Gongti Donglu, Chaoyang food is straight from Hell’s own kitchen. District 朝阳区酒仙桥路2号院798艺术区706后 Bar Blu District 朝阳区工体东路4号城市宾馆正门旁边 // Daily 12pm-4am. 12 Xindong Lu (next to 街1号 (6436 1818) Three floors of DJs, bars and somewhat- The James Joyce), Chaoyang District 朝阳区新 sweet cocktails prove popular with tourists Drum and Bell 鼓钟咖啡馆东路16号 (6415 6513) Yu Xin (Chinese Sichuan) and the teeny crowd. But as the night The location of this rooftop hutong bar, Open since 1993, Yu Xin has a loyal fanbase wears on, so does the sense of despera- in the historic (and threatened) Gulou Hidden Lounge * through consistently offers authentic tion on the dancefloor. neighbourhood, makes it a great place to Although frustrating to find, Hidden Sichuan dishes. Their liangfen – a jelly-like // Daily 6.30pm-late. 4/F, Tongli Studio, hang out with a cool one and watch the Lounge rewards the intrepid with good art- substance cut into chunky strips and Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里 day go by. work and comfortable seating, suggesting dressed in an addictive spicy sauce – hits 屯后街同里4层 (6417 4124) // Daily 1pm-2am. 41 Zhonglouwan Hutong, a Kasbah, plus well-made drinks at great the spot. Also not to be missed are koushui Dongcheng District 东城区钟楼湾胡同41 prices (wine from RMB100 a bottle, mix ji, mouthwatering cold chicken, and Bar Veloce ¥ * 号 (8403 3600) drinks from RMB25). You’ll probably have shuizhu niurou, fiery boiled beef slices. A New York import, Veloce does fine Italian to call them to find it, though. Enjoy its rustic, intimate setting of bamboo wine, tapas and good service, and is unpre- El Nido * // Daily 6pm-1am. Room 101, Bldg 8, CBD cubicles and swift, friendly service. tentious while also pleasing those who care The first hutong hang-out to patent the Apartments, Shuanghuayuan Nanli Erqu, // Daily 11am-10pm. 5A Xingfu Yicun Xili, that the furniture is from Sean Dix. fridge-full-of-cheap-imports formula, El Chaoyang District 朝阳区双花园南里二区CBD公 Chaoyang District 朝阳区幸福一村西里甲5 // 6pm-12.30am Wed-Sun. Courtyard 4 (inside Nido inspires a loyal following, particularly 寓8号楼101屋 (8772 1613) 号 (6415 8168 for other locations, visit www. 1949 The Hidden City), Gongti Beilu, Chaoyang in summer. The roast leg of mutton place yuxin1997.com) District 朝阳区工体北路4号院1949西门对面 next door is one of the best locally. Ichikura ¥ (6586 1006) // Daily 6pm-late, 59 Fangjia Hutong, One of the best-known ‘secrets’ in town, Yue Lu Mountain House (Chinese) Dongcheng District 东城区方家胡同50号(158 this Japanese whisky bar tucked behind

74 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com a theater also offers terrific cocktails. Mesh ¥ Twilight ¥ * drinks menu, with plenty of cheap pastis Although less expensive than several rivals, Whether it’s an early evening cocktail or a A downtown version of Sanlitun mainstay and shooters, but you’ll probably stick to you’ll want to indulge. late-night infusion, Mesh’s moody interior Apothecary, complete with mood jazz and the RMB15 draught. When the smoking // Daily 7pm-2am. 2/F Chaoyang Theater, 36 and underground soundtrack draws the those premium cocktails, this Japanese gets fierce, head to the spacious terrace Dongsanhuan Beilu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 bright young things (and on LGBT Thurs- whisky bar makes you feel as far away for a big drag of bad air. 东三环北路36号朝阳剧场南侧 (6507 1107) days, quite a few old things, too). from the busy boulevards whizzing below // Daily, 7pm-late. Bldg B, 206 Gulou Dong // Daily 5pm-1am. Building 1, 11 Sanlitun Lu, as you’d want. Dajie, Dongcheng District 坛东城区鼓楼东大街 The Irish Volunteer Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯路11号院1号 // Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, villa 5 east Jianwai 206号B楼202 (131 6107 0713) Everything – from the red-faced owner to 楼 (6417 6688) SOHO, Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang the grub – is authentically Irish: tinged District 朝阳区东三环中路39号建外SOHO东区5 XP 小萍 with alcoholism, doggerel and drunken Modernista Old Cafe and Tapas Bar ¥ * 号别墅3层 (5900 5376) From the ashes of Beijing’s now-legendary regret. A good place to down a pint and a The hipsters love this little brasserie- D-22, rises the brave new experimental pizza before heading into town, then. themed absinthe bar. Regular live shows XIU ¥¥ club XP. Operated and owned by former // Daily 9pm-2am. 311 Jiangtai Lu (opposite mean it can often get pretty crowded. That While Thursday’s Ladies Nights attracts D-22 main man (and noted economist) Lido Hotel East Gate), Chaoyang District 朝阳区 should piss off the hipsters, yet still they the sort we’d sooner avoid, XIU is beloved Michael Pettis, XP is more avant-garde 将台路311号 (6438 5581) keep coming. among aspirational white-collar Chinese, than its previous incarnation. Expect sonic // Tuesday to Sunday 12pm-2am. 44 Baochao wooed by its sprawling chic-ness and play- projections, drone-core jazz and the latest The James Joyce * Hutong, Dong Cheng District 东城区鼓楼东大 boy clientele. A lively house band keeps in cutting-edge Beijing sound. With its roaring fire and portraits of Joyce, 街宝钞胡同44号(136 9142 5744) you indoors, but a superb terrace backons // 1pm-late, closed Monday, 2 Silouxiang (just the ‘JJ’ is a homing beacon to anyone crav- you otherwise: a fantastic midweek drink- south of Gulou Xidajie, Xicheng District. 西城 ing an authentic Irish pub atmosphere (i.e. Paddy O’Shea’s ing venue in the summer. 区地安门内大街四楼巷 (6406 9947) without tacky Guinness-related gimmicks). Owner Karl Long has airlifted an entire // Daily 6pm-2am. 3/F, villa 5 east Jianwai // Daily 11am-2am14 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang Irish theme pub, including residents, from SOHO, Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang Yugong Yishan 愚公移山 District 朝阳区新东路14号 (6415 9125) a council estate in Limerick and gently District 朝阳区东三环中路39号建外SOHO东区5 We’ve lost more body weight than we’d deposited it in central Beijing. With plenty 号别墅3层 (5900 5376) care to remember in YY’s mosh pit. Jane’s & Hooch ¥ * going on, including pub quiz and sports, Fortunately, almost all the acts – usually Acclaimed by some foreign press as one no one seems to have noticed. hip-hop DJs, emo rocks and obscure indie of the best bars in the world (cough), this // Daily 10am-late. 28 Dongzhimenwai Dajie, 10 Best Livehouses outfits from across the globe – were worth not-so-plain Jane has been at the vanguard Chaoyang District 朝阳区东直门外大街28号 it. The upstairs bar area is a refuge from of the South Sanlitun gentrification. (6415 6389) 2 Kolegas 两个好朋友酒吧 * the sweat glands below. It serves RMB60-80 measures of your Call it what you will: Dos Kolegas. Fire // Daily 7pm-late. 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (100m favorite Prohibiotion-era hooches in a Propaganda trap. That place by the drive-through. But west of Zhangzizhong Lu subway station), fanstastic speakeasy atmosphere, with at- This sweaty student sauna is either the there’s no denying that this artsy alterna- Dongcheng District 东城区张自忠路3-2号 tentive staff and unimpeachable cocktails. best place in Wudaokou (if you’re a Korean tive venue has its fingers on an eclectic (6404 2711) The drawbacks? weekends can be horriblky student, or like to pick up said students) musical pulse. In summer, it really comes busy – and there is a frankly absurd list of or some kind of fresh Circle of Hell (if alive with barbecue pits, all-day parties Zajia Lab 杂家 house rules marring the menu. you’re anyone else). Fake booze (and fake and a whole lotta love. A Daoist Temple is exactly where you’d // Daily 11am-2am14 Xindong Lu, Chaoyang orgasms) abound. // Daily 8pm-2am. 21 Liangmaqiao Lu expect an Italian Sinologist to open a District 朝阳区新东路14号 (6415 9125) // Mon-Fri 8pm-4.30am, Sat-Sun 8pm-5am. (inside the drive-in movie theater park), venue – big on film screenings, A/V pro- 100m north of the east gate of Huaqing Chaoyang District 朝阳区亮马桥路21号 (6436 jects, avant-garde puppetry and choice but Kokomo Bar and Restaurant Jiayuan, Wudaokou, Haidian District 海淀区五 8998,www.2kolegas.com) obscure live music for the adventurous. One of several rooftop bars that suffer 道口华清嘉园东门往北100米 (8286 3991) // Hong En Daoist Temple, Doufuchi Hutong, through winter, Kokomo has a game stab Hot Cat Club 热力猫 Dongcheng District 东城区旧鼓楼大街豆腐池 at Caribbean culture with its beach cock- Q Bar ¥ A true stalwart of the Beijing scene, Hot 胡同宏恩观前殿 (156 0112 2252, 8404 9141, tails and sandy floor, plus occasional DJ Atop one of the city’s most average-looking Cat is the type of hard-working venue that www.zajia.cc) nights in the summer. Also a restaurant, hotels is one of its classiest (and certainly helps cement a city’s music scene. From apparently. oldest) institutions. Be prepared to wait for Afro Funk to Math Rock to painful open- GALLERIES // Daily 6pm-2am, 4/F, Tongli, Sanlitun Houjie, your drinks, though. The rooftop terrace mic nights, this everyman’s club breeds 798 Art District Picks Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯后街同里4层 is one of the main lures, so in winter, you good vibes. Decent drinks, lots of loungy (6413 1019) may want to look elsewhere. seats and plenty of space. Galleria Continua * // Daily 5pm-2am. Top floor of Eastern Inn // Daily 10am-late, 46 Fangjia Hutong (just In the often-insular 798, Galleria Continua Lantern * Hotel, 6 Baijiazhuang Lu (on the corner of south of Guozijian Jie), Dongcheng District 东 is the international gallery. Their ware- Founded by now-defunct Acupuncture Sanlitun Nanlu), Chaoyang District 朝阳区白家城区方家胡同46号(6400 7868). house space is a forum for high-caliber art- Records, Lantern is a beacon of light in the 庄6号朝阳门医院北门东100米三里屯南路逸羽连 ists from nearly every continent, including strip of truly ghastly nightclubs and bars 锁酒店顶楼 (6595 9239, www.qbarbeijing.com) Jianghu 江湖酒吧 several of China’s artistic nobility. known as ‘Gongti.’ Serious about its mu- This former Qing Dynasty courtyard home // Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. 798 Art District, sic, it also makes good drinks and attracts Salud 老伍 * is exactly where you’d take that friend from 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒 international electronica DJs. A Nanluoguxiang institution, with every- out of town to prove you’re cool. Its cozy 仙桥路2号798大山子艺术区 (5978 9505, www. // Thurs-Sat 9pm-6.30am. 100m north of thing from cheap beer to (loud)live music atmosphere is also its downfall – any show galleriacontinua.com) Worker’s Stadium West Gate, Chaoyang and low beams. The rum infusions are a with under 40 people and you’re stuck District 朝阳区工人体育场西门向北100米(139 particular favorite on cold nights. looking through the windows. Hip and Long March Space 119 77989) // Mon-Fri 3pm-late, Sat-Sun noon-late. 66 casually familiar, the jazz and folk book- Founder and curator, Lu Jie abides by Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District 东城区南 ings keep things low-key enough for the exacting standards from both the 20-odd The Local * 锣鼓巷66号 (6402 5086) get-home-for-the-babysitter crowd. Chinese artists he represents and the Formerly Brussels, this beery bar has // 7 Dongmianhua Hutong, Jiaodaokou Nan overall design of his topical and uncom- come into its own, with large (yet strangely School Bar Dajie, Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街 promising exhibitions. International clout unobtrusive) screenings of sports and po- Crap drinks and regular, unscheduled 东棉花胡同7号 (6401 5269, site.douban.com/ was inevitable. litical events, a pub quiz, quality fare and fights: no wonder the cool kids adore this jianghujiubar, [email protected]) // Free. Tues-Sun 11am-7pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao a nice selection of draughts and cocktails. alternative livehouse/ DJ bar, founded by Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798 Try the Bourbon Street Ice Tea – you won’t Beijing and Shanghai rock n’ rollers. Mako Live 麻雀瓦舍艺术区 (5978 9768, www.longmarchspace.com) need another. // Daily 8pm-late. 53 Wudaoying Hutong, Nestled in the old Beijing Jeep plant, this // See Hot 100 Restaurants for details. Chaoyang District 朝阳区五道营胡同53号 former warehouse plays host to a Silk Pace Beijing (6402 8881) Road smorgasbord of musical encounters With locations in New York, London and Lucky Man ¥ * from western China and the ‘Stans. Forget Beijing hosting the likes of Zhang Xi- The cognoscenti rate this quiet Gulou Slow Boat Brewery Taproom * the overpriced bar and come for the killer aogang, Yue Minjun, Robert Rauschenberg, whisky bar as one of the smartest to sat- This popular microbrewery finally got its sound, comfortable wraparound balcony Mark Rothko, Kiki Smith and Sol LeWitt, isfy your lust for the other ‘amber nectar.’ own comfortable location in Dongcheng’s and five-meter replica of Optimus Prime, Pace inhabits Bauhaus-style buildings 798 // Daily 7pm-1.30am. 157 Gulou Dongdajie, hutong district. Quality ales (such as the followed by a hearty meal at the Xinjiang is idealized for. Go there! Dongcheng District 东城区鼓楼东大街157 vanilla stout (RMB55) or crisp Dragon Boat restaurant upstairs. // Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm.798 Art District, (6405 4167) Ale (RMB25), heated floors and a kitchen // Hongdian Art Factory, 36 Guangqu Lu, 2 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 round out the deal.The burger-and-sua Chaoyang District 朝阳区广渠路36号红点艺术酒仙桥路2号大山子艺术区 (5978 9781, www. Luga’s // Mon Closed, Tues-Wed: 4pm-12am, Thur- 工厂院内(5205 1113, www.mako001.com) pacegallery.com) The closest Beijing has to a municipal Fri: 5pm-1am, Sat: 2pm-late, Sun: 2-10pm. 56 drinking hall, the four-storey Luga’s has Dongsi Batiao,Dongcheng District 东城区东四 Mao Livehouse Space Station it all: terrible Tex-Mex, decent Italian, 八条56号 (6538 5537) From the denim-jacketed doorman to the Not often shown in 789’s sea of elites, a busy pool table, loud music, smoke, well-grafittied walls, Mao leans on every Space Station presents a younger genera- 400 flatscreen TVs all showing different Smuggler’s Hollywood rock club cliché without feeling tion of domestic artists. Exhibitions tend sports… yet still we like it (sort of). Base- The high (or make that low) watermark scripted. Besides boasting the worst bar to have a good curatorial understanding of ment bar Taps provides a German-themed among the ailing dive-bar scene of Sanli- in town, Mao delivers with great sound space and high-quality 2D work. refuge, with serve-your-own draught tun, Smuggler’s caters to a rambunctious, and the best billings of heavy metal, punk // Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 4 Jiuxianqiao Paulaner and quality food. friendly crowd of scallywags, rapscallions hitting this side of the Drum Tower. Rd798 Art District, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒 // Daily 11am-2am. 2/F, 7 Sanlitun Houjie, and ragamuffins. Don’t drink too many // 111 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District 仙桥路4号798艺术区中一街 (5978 9671) Chaoyang District 朝阳区三里屯后街7号2 of their spirits; do ask why the men’s 东城区鼓楼东大街111号(6402 5080, www. 层 (6416 2575) bathroom hasn’t been fixed in three maolive.com) Tang Contemporary Art f*cking years. Stressing cutting-edge exhibition installa- Maggie’s ¥ // 8pm-late. 43 Sanlitun Houjie, Chaoyang The Post Mountain 后山 tion and curatorial theory. With locations A notorious sausage fest (we refer, of District 朝阳区三里屯后街43号 (138 0107 1230) Built into a man-made hill in the center of in Bangkok, Hong Kong and Beijing, Tang course, to the hot-dog stand outside), the MOMA Complex, this new addition to focuses on promoting artistic exchange Maggie’s has been providing its special The Stumble Inn Beijing’s growing livehouse empire is The throughout East Asia. comforts for so long, it’s practically a time- Aesthetically something of an eyesore, the Hobbit meets Manhattan. With as much // Free. Tues-Sun 10.30am-6pm. 798 Factory, 2 honored Beijing brand – although it’s also huge drinks list and reliable Western food vibe as a sterile modern-art gallery. Its Jiuxianqiao Road, Chaoyang District 朝阳区大 a bastion of Mongolian culture. at this ‘funky’ sports bar in the Village are imported sound system and ramped floor 山子酒仙桥路798工厂2号入口前行300米 (5978 // Sun-Thur 8pm-4am, Fri-Sat 8pm-5am, Ritan definite plus points. makes for decent sound and sightlines. 9610, www.atngcontemporary.com) Park South Gate, Chaoyang District 朝阳区日坛 // Daily 12pm-2am. S3-31 South Sanlitun Almost exclusively featuring Chinese rock, 公园南门 (8562 8142) Village, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 朝 folk and electronic artists you’ve never Ullens Center for Contemporary Art 阳区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区3楼S3-31 heard of (but should). Filling the largest factory space in 798 with Mao Mao Chong ** 号 (6417 7794) // Bldg T8, MOMA, 1 Xiangheyuan Lu, Chinese and international art, the UCCA The cocktails at Mao’s – such as their sub- Dongzhimenwai, Dongcheng District (next to has the curatorial power and financial lime ‘Mala’ Mule, a Sichuan peppercorn- The Tree 隐蔽的树 MOMA Cinemateque) 东城区东直门外香河园 backing to put together some of Beijing’s infused vodka drink that’s a long way from A cozy stalwart of the Beijing bar scene, 路1号当代MOMA园区T8楼北百老汇电影中心北 most impressive exhibitions. Moscow – are unique infusions using local you’ll find wood-fired comfort pizza, beer 侧 (8400 4774) // RMB10, free Thursdays. Tues-Sun 10am-7pm. ingredients and know-how. Grungey without aplenty and a hearty, mature atmosphere. 798 Art District, 4 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang being grimey, Mao’s eschews flash while Has two neighborhood offshoots: By the Temple * District 朝阳区酒仙桥路4号798艺术区 (5780 still keeping it real. And those pizzas. Tree (brickwork, pool, old man’s pub) and Probably the manliest venue in town, this 0200, www.ucca.org.cn) // 12 Banchang Hutong, Jiaodaokou, Nearby the Tree (live music, two floors). dimly lit and unventilated space is owned Dongcheng District 东城区交道口南大街板厂 // Daily noon-2am. 100m west of Sanlitun Bar by rockers (Gao Xu, Gao Jian and Clement Caochangdi Art Village 胡同12号 (6405 5718, www.maomaochong- Street, Youyi Youth Hostel, Chaoyang District Burger) and known for late sets of hard beijing.com) 朝阳区三里屯酒吧街往西100米友谊旅馆后面三 rock, punk and ska, with weekend gigs Chambers Fine Art Beijing 里屯医院东面 (6415 1954) and DJ sets every fortnight. It offers a long With its compeer gallery in New York,

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 75 listings

Chambers is a matriarch with extensive cafe-bookstore, aptly named Kubrick. nail-art services in town. first-time registration fee of RMB50. Credit roots in the local-studio scene that allows // RMB30-120. Mon-Sun 11am-10pm. F3, // Daily, 10am-10pm. B1-13 Ginza Mall, 48 cards accepted. Big Apple headhunters to cull next genera- Building T4, The North Area, MOMA, 1 Dongzhimen Waidajie, Dongcheng District 东 // 1) LB107, Euro Plaza, 99 Yuxiang Lu Tianzhu tion avant-garde and provide a stepping Xiangheyuan Lu, Dongcheng District 东城区城区东直门外大街48号东方银座B1-13号 Zhen, Shunyi District顺义区天竺镇裕翔路99号 stone to international recognition. 东直门香河园路1号当代Moma北区T4座 (8438 欧陆广场LB107 (8046 6084, www.sdmdental. // Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Red No.1-D, 8258 ext. 8008, www.bc-cinema.cn) Luxura Tanning Center com); 2) Rm 106, Bldg 11, 22 Yuanda Lu, Caochangdi, Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地 This tanning salon has some of the city’s Haidian District 海淀区远大路22号院11号楼1层红一号D座 (5127 3298, www.chambersfineart. Instituto Cervantes best state-of-the-art tanning beds, all 106室 (8859 6912,8859 6913, www.sdmdental. com) Showing popular independent films from imported from Europe. For the sexiest tan com); 3) Rm305, Bldg 1, China Overseas Plaza Latin American Directors monthly, the possible, get custom-made tanning tips 8 Guanghua Dongli, Jianwai Dajie Chaoyang Galerie Urs Meile Instituto Cervantes is a forum of Spanish- from the well-trained staff. District 朝阳区建外大街光华东里8号中海广 Recently upgrading to one of the court- speaking culture that also hosts public art // Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) Rm 307, Bldg 4, 场1号楼3层05 (5977 2488,5977 2486, www. yards designed by artist-architect Ai exhibitions and lectures. They even have a Jianwai Soho 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, sdmdental.com) Weiwei, this Swiss-owned gallery has two video library! Chaoyang District朝阳区东三环中路建外SOHO intimate spaces, allowing pairs of solo // Prices vary. Daily 7am-10pm.1A Gongti 西区4楼307室(5900 0427, www.luxura.net) 2) United Family Shunyi Dental Clinic exhibitions from leading contemporary Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区工体南路甲1号 5005, 5/F, 3.3 Sanlitun, Chaoyang District朝阳 The Beijing United Family Dental Clinic in Chinese artists. (5879 9666, www.pekin.cervantes.es) 区三里屯3.3大厦5层5005号 (5136 5186, www. Shunyi is a satellite of the main hospital // Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6.30pm. 104 luxura.net) in Lido (which has its own dental clinic Caochangdi, Cui Gezhuang Xiang, Chaoyang Bookstores onsite). A comprehensive range of services District 朝阳区崔各庄草场地村104号(近电影博 Lily Nails are at hand, including restorative dentistry 物馆路)(6433 3393, www.galerieursmeile.com) The Bookworm * A long-time favorite among locals and ex- and cosmetic dentistry. Call ahead for all This glass cube looks over Sanlitun Village, pats alike, Lily Nails is much more than a appointments. Platform China * providing a cozy atmosphere for brows- nail spa; they have a variety of pampering // 818 Pinnacle Plaza, Tianzhu Real Estate Platform China has a Gallery A & B, one ing bibliophiles. The Western bookstore, treatments and waxing services too. Development Zone, Shunyi District北京和睦家 directly across from the other, about equal library, film house, bar, bistro-cafe and // Daily, 10am-10pm. 1) 2 Ginza Mall, 医院牙科诊所, 顺义区天竺开发区荣祥广场818 in size and each devoted to the promotion event space always has a cultured evening 48 Dongzhimenwai Dajie (southeast of (8046 1102) of experimental creation, from sound on its shelves for both adults and kids. Dongzhimen Bridge), Dongcheng District东 installation to performative, 3D and 2D art. // Daily 9am-2am. Building 4, Nan Sanlitun 城区东直门外大街48号东方银座2楼(东直门桥 HAIR SALONS // Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. No. 319-1, East Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing 三里屯南街4号东南侧) (8447 7178); 2) Shop 2049, 2/F, 3.3 End Art Zone A, Caochangdi Village, Chaoyang 楼 (6586 9507, www.beijingbookworm.com) Shopping Center, 33 Sanlitun Beijie, Chaoyang Catherine de France District 朝阳区草场地村319-1艺术东区A区内 District朝阳区三里屯北街33号3.3大厦2层2049 Chi-chi French salon headed by globetrot- (6432 0091, www.platformchina.org) Page One 号 ( 5136 5829, 136 8148 3308) ter stylist Catherine Colin. With its sleek The go-to shop for new releases and spe- decor and mod-black leather treatment ShanghART Beijing cial requests. With sister venues in Hong Yoga Yard chairs, the bright salon space is chic, and Originating in 2007 in Shanghai, this Kong, Taiwan and Singapore, and two Whether you’re looking to develop your the international staff of stylists equally institution skyrocketed as a major exhibitor locations in Beijing, its network allows for spiritual wellbeing, body toning or just so–you can trust them to always be up on of Chinese photographic and digital media fresh authors whilst upholding an extensive socialize with the hip young crowd, Yoga the latest hair fashions from around the art. Now representing over 40 artists with collection of titles. Yard will have the right class for you. globe. If you’re looking for an avant-garde five Asian locations, ShanghART is an // Daily 10am-9pm. Shop 3B 201, Zone 3 China // Daily, 7am-9.30pm. Yoga Yard, 6/F , 17 look, Catherine develops a unique haute international festival regular. World Mall, No.1 Jian Guo Men Wai Avenue, Gongti Bei Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区工体北 coiffure collection every season. // Free. Tues-Sun 11am-6pm. 261 Caochangdi, Chaoyang District 朝阳区国贸商城三期地下二层路17号6层 (6413 0774, www.yogayard.com) // Daily, 10am-8pm. Ground Floor, East Avenue Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地261号 (6432 3B201 (8535 1055, www.pageonegroup.com) bldg, 10 Xindong Lu,Chaoyang District 朝阳区 3202, www.shanghartgallery.com) Page One Indigo. Shop LG50, INDIGO, 18 Yihe 42° Hot Yoga 新东路10号逸盛阁首层 (135 2147 3492, 8442 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区酒仙 Counting on certified Bikram yoga teach- 5120, www.catherinedefrance.com) 桥路18号颐堤港商业中心B1楼50号(8426 0408, ers, Yihe 42° Hot Yoga provides three Three Shadows Photography Art Centre www.pageonegroup.com) locations with a calm, relaxing and clean Eric Paris Hair Salon Elegantly utilitarian in design, the environment for people from all walks of With several well-located Beijing branches, V-shaped gallery is an ideal venue to BEAUTY & FITNESS lives to learn and grow through the regular this salon is still most expats’ default accommodate all sizes and forms of pho- practice of Hot Yoga. This is a place where hairdresser. It targets high-end consumers tography. The courtyard also hosts lavish Alona Pilates Studio you can dedicate time for yourself, relax Pairing up traditional Pilates with an in- seeking luxury and beauty services, includ- openings, screenings and concerts. your mind and restore your strength. ing tanning, waxing and manicures. // Free, Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 115A novative, full-body workout, Alona Pilates // Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 3/F, No. 2 South offers classes designed to tone and whip // Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) 43 South Sanlitun Beijie, Caochangdi, Chaoyang District 朝阳区草场地 Building, Blue Castle, Dawang Lu, Chaoyang Chaoyang District朝阳区三里屯北街南43号 155号 (6431 9693, www.threeshadows.cn) you into shape fast. It also provides a per- District朝阳区大望路蓝堡国际中心南写2座3层 (135 0137 2971; www.ericparis.com ); 2) 1/F, sonalized experience for all its students, (8599 7395/96, www.yh42.com); 2) 3/F, Bldg. regardless of fitness, strength and Jiali Center, 1 Guanghua Lu朝阳区光华路1号嘉 White Space Beijing 14, Solana, No. 6 Chaoyang Gongyuan Xilu 里中心1楼 (139 1179 8376;) There are no restricting on the art this flexibility levels. Chaoyang District朝阳区朝阳公园西路6号,蓝 gallery supports, leading to some of the // Daily, 7.30, late. 5/F at Heavenly Spa by Wes- 色港湾14号,三层 (5905 6067/77, www.yh42. tin, 1 Xinyuan Nanlu, Chaoyang District Franck Provost Paris area’s more perplexing exhibitions. Always com) ; 3) 3/FA Shimao Plaza 13 Gongti Beilu A chic and stylish import from France, fun and on the pulse of vitality, though 朝阳区新源南路1号威斯汀酒店五层 ( 139 1029 Chaoyang District朝阳工体北路新中西里13号 0260, www.alonapilates.com) Frank Provost is one of Beijing’s most empirical value is pushed to an extreme. 巨石大厦3FA high-profile and hip salons, offering // Free. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. 255 Caochangdi, cutting-edge cuts for the city’s elite. The Airport Service Road, Chaoyang District 朝 Broadwell International Tennis Academy YogiYoga Located inside Chaoyang Park’s Tennis staff consists of international and inter- 阳区机场辅路草场地255号(8456 2054, www. True boutique-style yoga, YogiYoga has a nationally trained stylists and technicians, whitespace-beijing.com) Center, this indoor club boasts a complete mostly Chinese clientele and classes aver- state-of-the-art air-supported structure and stocks an imported range of products age about eight people. Their instructors and accessories. Citywide Picks for all-weather year-round indoor tennis, come from all over the world, and teach a // Daily, 10am-8pm.1) Shop D2001-1, 2/F, Shin with an advanced lighting system and wide range of classes. Kong Place 87 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District Arrow Factory controlled climate. Ideal for peeps looking // Daily, 10am-8pm. 1) Chaoyang Park Tennis to perfect their service and batting a few 朝阳区建国路87号新光天地二层D2001-1店 This space is one of a kind in Beijing, an Center, Chaoyang Park, 1 Chaoyang Gongy uan 铺 (6530 7669); 2) Parkson Shopping Center independently run alternative space in the balls. Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区朝阳公园南路 Fuxingmen 37 Jinrong Jie, Xicheng District hutong of Beijing’s center. Showing young, // Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District 朝阳 1号朝阳公园网球中心 6592 2791/92 ; 2) North 1 (4006406800/ 西城区金融大街37号百盛购物中心二期夹层 experimental artists, Arrow only takes up 区农南路号朝阳公园网球中心 Gate, Ritan Park Chaoyang District 朝阳区日 (6653 5248) about 15sqm and is viewable 24/7. As 65958885,www.broadwell.cn1) 坛公园北门 (8561 5506/5507); 3) 5/F, Oriental a backlash against artists being pushed Plaza, 218-2 Wangfujing Dajie Dongcheng Tony & Guy outside the city limits, this space tries to DNA Fitness Studio District东城区王府井大街218-2东方广场西配楼 Catering for both athletes and normal A favorite of many Beijing expats, the reinstall art inside an urban setting so 五层 (6513-2188, 6522-7168); 4) 8/F, Zhongxin trendy British chain features interna- everyday experience and creativity remain folks, DNA Fitness Studio specializes in Shuma Plaza, 52 Beisihuan Xilu Haidian one-on-one personal training, weight loss, tional products, knowledgeable (generally intertwined. District海淀区北四环西路52号中芯数码大厦8 somewhat English-speaking) staff, and a // Free. Everyday 24hours. 38 Jianchang spine care, body building and more, with 层 6269-2352 personalized classes and training systems. never-ending stream of well-heeled hip Hutong, Dongcheng District 东城区箭厂胡同38 clientele. Cuts run the gamut from basic to 号 (www.arrowfactory.org.cn) // Mon-Fri, 10am-9pm.Unit 1135, 3F, Bldg 11, DENTAL Jianwai SOHO, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, haute coiffure, depending on which grade of stylish you select. CAFA Museum Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环中路建外SOHO Arrail Dental 西区11楼3层 (5869 1607) Affiliated with the University of Pennsylva- // Daily, 10am-9pm. LG 41, INDIGO, 18 Attached to the northeast corner of the Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区酒仙桥 Central Academy of Fine Art, architect nia, Arrail Dental has access to top-class Faith tattoo equipment. Its well-trained staff, multiple 路18号颐堤港地铁层41号 (8426 0688, for other Arata Isozaki built a slate-rock shell to branches see) house the museum’s 13,000+ collection Faith tattoo is one of Beijing’s most locations across town and excellent popular tattoo studios. Their friendly facilities make it one of the best dental of modern to contemporary art. Opened in Tic Tac Hair Salon 2008, exhibitions range from Chinese Mod- service -- and Western-standard facilities providers in Beijing. English-speaking staff. and hygiene -- nets them a large clientele Dental services including examinations, Trendy, artsy and welcoming, Tic Tac is ern masterworks to current avant-garde one of Beijing’s best-kept secrets and a experimental. within the expat community, and they can whitening, root-canal treatment, orthodon- offer a range of tattoo styles and sizes on tics and implants. real beauty gem. Staff are friendly and // RMB10. Tues-Sun 9am-5.30pm. No. 8 multilingual (we counted five last time). Huajiadi Nan Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区花 request. // 1) Rm 201, the Exchange-Beijing, 118B // Daily, 10am-10pm. Ginza Mall,Rm 202, Unit Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区建国路 A shampoo, cut and blow-dry starts at 家地南街8号中央美术学院美术馆 (6528 2022, RMB200 and goes to RMB780. www.cafamuseum.org) 1, Bldg 1, 48 Dongzhimenwai Dajie (southeast 乙118号国贸桥东南角京汇大厦201室 (6567 of Dongzhimen Bridge), Dongcheng District 5670); 2) Rm 208, Tower A, CITIC Building, 19 // Daily, 10am-9pm. Suite 2-06, Tower AB, The 东 Office Park, 10 Jintong Xilu, Chaoyang district Today Art Museum * 城区东直门外大街48号东方银座1楼1单元202室 Jianguomenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District朝阳 (东直门桥东南侧) (133 6648 3206) 区建国门外大街19号国际大厦A座208室 (6500 朝阳区金桐西路10号远洋光华国际AB座2层06单 As China’s first non-profit, non-governmen- 元 (8590 6899, www.tictac-hair.com) tal art museum, this institution embodies 6473); 3) Rm 308, Tower A, Raycom Info Tech the country’s 20th-century leap to develop Fine Yoga Park 2 Kexueyuan Nanlu, Haidian District海淀 HEALTH SERVICES academic and progressive exhibitions. This airy studio offers a diverse range of 区中关村科学院南路2号融科资讯中心A座308 Opened in 2002, Chinese superstars and style and classes, including Ashtanga, 室 (8286 1956); 4) Rm 101, Bldg 16, China Amcare Women’s & Children’s Hospital university prospects all get wall space Hatha, Anusara, soft Yin and Hot yoga. Central Place, 89 Jianguo Lu, Chaoyang District With a zero waiting-time policy, top-quality here. Teachers are top notch and international, 朝阳区建国路89号华贸中心公寓16号楼101室 inpatient facilities, home visits, night // RMB10. Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. Building 4, and classrooms spacious and bright, with (8588 8550/60/70); 5) 1/F, Somerset Fortune services and transportation assistance, Pingod Community, No.32 Baiziwan Road, stylish, clean changing-rooms. Classes Garden, 46 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District Amcare provides a trustworthy experience. Chaoyang District 朝阳区百子湾路32号苹果社 taught in both Chinese and English. 朝阳区亮马桥路46号燕莎东侧盛捷福景苑1层 English-speaking services include pediat- 区4号楼今日美术馆 (5876 0600, www.todayart- // Mon-Fri 7am-9:30pm, Sat- Sun. 10am-6pm. (8440 1926) rics, gynecology and obstetrics. museum.com) 16/F, Tower 2, Blue Castle International Centre, // 9 Fangyuan XiLu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区 3 Xi Dawang Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区西 SDM Dental 芳园西路9号 (6434 2399, 24hr hotline 800 610 Independent cinemas 大望路3号蓝堡国际中心2号楼16层 (85999566/ The full spectrum of non-surgical den- 6200, www.amcare.com.cn) 85997702) tistry. Services include teeth cleaning, Broadway Cinematheque MOMA * root-canal treatment, porcelain crowns, Beijing International Medical Center (IMC) Opened in 2009, this arthouse film venue Kinway dental implants, orthodontics, cosmetic Established in 1993, the International boasts the largest screens for independent A hidden gem, Kinway offers a variety of dentistry, fillings, pediatric dentistry, Medical Center-Beijing counts on an expert cinema in Beijing. It has three theaters products and treatments in a relaxing extraction, teeth-whitening and veneers. team of foreign doctors, offering a wide with a total of 400 seats and a 300-sqm atmosphere, as well as some of the best A basic consultation costs RMB50, with a range of medical services, including family

76 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com medicine, psychological services, dental, 王府饭店和东方广场) (6527 9368, www.drag- EDUCATIONS 10 Laiguangying Donglu ob/gyn, pediatrics and TCM. Drop-in ser- onfly.net.cn); 2) 1/F Eastern Inn, Nan Sanlitun Chaoyang District vices for travelers; x-rays and ultrasounds Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区南三里屯路逸羽酒 MBA & EMBA SCHOOLS 朝阳区来广营东路10号 are also available. English, Farsi, Japanese, 店一层 (6593 6066); 3) Grand Summit Plaza, 19 Chinese, Arabic and Russian spoken. Dongfang Donglu (100m north of Lufthansa BBA at BFSU-SolBridge Yew Chung International School // 24hours. Room S106/111 Lufthansa Center, Center), Chaoyang District朝阳区燕莎桥东方北京外国语大学国际商学院耀中国际学校 50 Liangmahe Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区东路19号外交会所1层(燕莎中心路北100米) 8881 6563/8881 6763/8881 8537 Honglingjin Park, 5 Houbalizhuang 亮马桥路50号燕莎中心写字楼1层S106 (6465 (8532 3122) 19 Xisanhuan Beilu, Haidian District Chaoyang District 1561/2/3, 6465 1384/28, www.imclinics.com) solbridge.bfsu.edu.cn 朝阳区后八里庄5号红领巾公园 (8583 3731 Fspa 海淀区西三环北路19号 www.ycis-bj.com) Beijing Vista Clinic This spa in Chaowai SOHO is a delightful This comprehensive medical and dentistry retreat from the often-overwhelming CBD Cheung Kong Graduate School of Business KINDERGARTENS 8518 1050 clinic features traditional medicine, physi- throng. Featuring sleek décor and an entire Beanstalk International Bilingual School wing devoted to female guests, complete Tower E3, 3/F, Oriental Plaza, 1 Dongchang’an otherapy, a pharmacy and lab, ob/gyn, 青苗国际双语学校 pediatrics, ophthalmology, dermatology, with swanky locker rooms, drench showers Jie, Dongcheng District 东城区东长安街号东方广场东3座3层 Kindergarten ENT and psychiatry services among oth- and private suites, it offers a wide array of 6466 9255 ers. Multi-lingual doctors always available pampering treatments. Rutgers International Executive MBA 1/F, Tower B, 40 Liangmaqiao Lu on-site. // Daily 10am–10pm. B115-121, Basement Chaoyang District // Daily 24hours. Kerry Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, One, Zone B.C Chaowai SOHO, 6B 5877 1706 www.rutgersinasia.com 朝阳区亮马桥路40号B座一层 Chaoyang district朝阳区光华路1号 (8529 6618, Chaoyangmenwai Dajie, Chaoyang District朝 Primary School www.vista-china.net) 阳区朝阳门外大街乙6号朝外SOHO B.C区 B115- 5/F China Life Tower, 16 Chaowai Dajie 121 (5900 1868) Chaoyang District 5130 7951 朝阳区朝阳门外大街16号中国人寿大厦 Block 2, Upper East Side, 6 Dongsihuan Beilu, Chaoyang District Ispa OASIS Healthcare Clinic 朝阳区东四环北路6号阳光上东二区 OASIS Healthcare Clinic specializes in A comprehensive range of both traditional Tsinghua University 6278 9437/8286 3785 Middle & High School serving the expatriate community with the spa rituals and modern foot reflexology 8456 6019 latest world-class technology and a broad awaits you at Ispa. This ultra-Zen oasis has Chengfu Lu, Haidian District 海淀区成府路 38 Nan Shiliju, Chaoyang District range of services, all in a pristine facility treatments that beautifully blend Eastern 朝阳区南十里居38号 designed to provide patients with the and Western healing ideologies, for an ultra- University of Maryland utmost comfort, care and privacy. relaxing experience. EtonKids International Kindergarten // Daily 10am-10pm. 5/F, Tower 2, Taiyue Suites, www.umd.edu // Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5.30pm; Sat-Sun, 8.30am- 伊顿国际幼儿园 16 Nan Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳区南 12.30pm; 24 Hour Emergency Bldg C1, 9 INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS 1) 6436 7368 Jiuxianqiao Beilulogo Chaoyang box march District 2013 42x40.pdf朝阳区酒 1 2013-3-14三里屯路 18:01:4416号泰悦豪庭2座5层 (6507 1517) www.etonkids.com 仙桥北路9号C1栋 (400 876 2747, 5985-0333, Beijing BISS International School Room C103 Lido Country Club, Lido Place www.oasishealth.cn) 北京BISS国际学校 Jichang Lu, Chaoyang District 6443 3151 朝阳区蒋台路机场路丽都广场 www.biss.com.cn Building 17, Area 4, Anz- C 2) 6506 4805 hen Xili Chaoyang District 3/F, Block D Global Trade Mansion 朝阳区安贞西里4区17楼 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District M 朝阳区光华路世贸国际公寓D座3层 Beijing City International School 3) 8437 1006 北京乐成国际学校 Y Southwest corner of Beichen Xilu and Kehui 8771 7171 Lu, Chaoyang District www.bcis.cn 朝阳区北辰西路与科荟路交汇处西南角 CM 77 Baiziwan Nan’er Lu, Chaoyang District 4) 8480 5538 朝阳区百子湾南二路77号 Kehui Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing

MY 朝阳区科荟路大屯里社区 Beijing Rego British School 5) 6533 6995 北京瑞金英国学校 Bldg 19, Central Park, 6 Chaowai Dajie CY 8416 7718 Chaoyang District www.bjrego.org 朝阳区朝外大街6号新城国际19号楼 15 Liyuan Jie, Tianzhu Town, Shunyi District CMY 6) 6539 8967 顺义区天竺镇丽苑街15号 Palm Springs International Apartments 8 Chaoyang Park Nanlu K The British School of Beijing Chaoyang District Angel Hands Lower School北京英国学校朝阳区朝阳公园南路8号棕榈泉国际公寓 IMC Choose from a variety of treatments by 5 Xiliujie, Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District 7) 6749 5008 Since 1993, the International Medical professional masseuses in relaxing, mini- 朝阳区三里屯西六街5号 (8532 3088 Bldg 21, Guangqu Jiayuan, Guangqumen- wai, Center – Beijing (IMC) has offered a full malist surroundings. www.britishschool.org.cn) Dongcheng District range of medical services, including Fam- // Daily, 24 hours. Rm 1801, Bldg 2, Jianwai Upper School 东城区广渠门外广渠家园21号楼 ily Medicine, Pediatrics, Internal medicine, SOHO, 39 Dongsanhuan Zhonglu, Chaoyang South Side, 9 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 8) 8478 0578 Obstetrics & Gynecology, Surgery & Or- District朝阳区东三环中路39号建外SOHO2号楼顺义区安华路9号南院 (8047 3588) Baoxing International Phase 2, Wangjing thopedics, Gastroenterology/Hepatology; (8631 0801) Chaoyang District also Dental Service, TCM & Acupuncture, Canadian International School of Beijing 朝阳区望京宝星园国际社区2期 Physiotherapy and Psychological services. Long Island Spa 北京加拿大国际学校 9) 8047 2983 The department of Emergency Care at IMC Bringing a whiff of Siam to Beijing, Long 6465 7788 Block 1, Arcadia Villas, Houshayu opens 24/7 with foreign-trained and board- Island Spa stems from the Long Island www.cisb.com.cn Shunyi District certified doctors on site. Resort and Spa on Koh Samui, Thailand. 38 Liangmaqiao Lu, Chaoyang District 顺义区后沙峪罗马环岛北侧天北路阿凯笛亚 Indulge in a wide array of Thai-style treat- 朝阳区亮马桥路38号庄园1座 Bilingual staff hail from China, America, ments, and try the selection of healthy 10) 5870 6779 Russia, Canada, Britain, Jordan, Japan and foods available from their cafe. Dulwich College Beijing 20A Xidawang Lu, Chaoyang District many others, making IMC a multi-national // Daily 10am till late. 1) B1, Jiahui Center, 6 Jiqingli 北京德威英国国际学校朝阳区西大望路甲20号首府社区内 and multi-cultural medical center that Chaoyang District朝阳区吉庆里6号佳汇中心B1 1) Legend Garden Campus serves people from all over the world! 层 (6551 6112/6113) ; 2) 5/F Nuo’an Building, 18 89 Jichang Lu, Shunyi District International Montessori School of Beijing Guanghua Lu Chaoyang District 14 // 50 Liangmaqiao Road, Chaoyang District, 朝阳区光华路甲首都机场路89号丽京花园 (6454 9000; 北京蒙台梭利国际学校 Beijing Lufthansa Office Building 号诺安大厦5层 (5130 9718, 6591 6247) www.dulwich-beijing.cn) 6432 8228 (6465 1560/1/2/3 Mail:clientservices@imcclin- 2) Beijing Riviera Campus www.msb.edu.cn ics.com www.imcclinics.com) Herborist 1 Xiangjiang Beilu, Jingshun Lu, Chaoyang 18 Maquanying, Xiangjiang Beilu TCM-inspired, Herborist is a Chinese skin- District 朝阳区京顺路香江北路1号香江花园 Chaoyang District SOS care brand that also has a chain of spas (8450 7676) 朝阳区香江北路马泉营18号 Since 1989, SOS is run by globally trained offering therapeutic massages with herbs. 3) River Garden Campus medical professionals and provides medi- The spa observes time-honored Chinese River Garden Villas, Houshayu Baixinzhuang, Ivy Schools health and beauty practices, with treat- cal, security and travel advice, as well as Shunyi District 顺义区后沙峪白辛庄裕京花园别艾毅幼儿园 emergency help 24/7. Its alarm centers ments inspired from acupuncture tech- 墅 8046 5132 www.ivyschools.com operate house calls, ambulance and evacu- niques in Traditional Chinese Medicine. East Lake Campus ation services, and standard health treat- // Daily 10am-10pm. 1) Bldg 9, Sanlitun Village Harrow International School Beijing 8451 1380/1 ments. Languages spoken include English, South, 19 Sanlitun Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳北京哈罗英国学校 C-101, East Lake Villas, 35 Dongzhimenwai German, French, Mandarin, Spanish, 区三里屯路19号三里屯Village南区8号楼S8-33 www.harrowbeijing.cn Main Street, Dongcheng District Japanese, Italian and Cantonese. (6416 5179); 2) Shop 39, Subway Level, Indigo Lower School 东城区东直门外大街35号东湖别墅C座101室 // Suite 105, Wing 1, Kunsha Building, No.16 Mall, 18 Jiuxianqiao Lu, Chaoyang District朝阳 Grassetown, Gequ Village, Songzhuang 18 LG39 Ivy Bilingual School Xinyuanli, Chaoyang District朝阳区新源里16号区酒仙桥路号颐堤港商场地铁层店铺号 Tongzhou District 通州区徐新庄镇葛渠村格拉斯艾毅双语幼儿园琨莎中心1座105 (8426 0455) 小镇 (8951 6680) Ocean Express Campus 室(6462 9112/ 6462 9100, www.internation- Upper School 8446 7286/7 alsos.com) The Wellness Spa by Hummingbird 6444 8900 Building E, Ocean Express, 2 Dongsanhuan A favorite among locals and expats alike 5, 4th Block, Anzhen Xili Beilu, Chaoyang District for its professional pampering know-how Chaoyang District 朝阳区东三环北路2号远洋新干线E座 SPA&MASSAGE and services, the Wellness Spa by Hum- 朝阳区安贞西里4区5号 Orchid Garden Campus mingbird is a slick and serious urban 8439 7080 retreat in the heart of Central Park. International School of Beijing Orchid Garden, 18 Xinjin Lu, Cuige Xiang, Aqua Salus // Daily 10am-10pm. Tower 26, Central Park, Providing an array of massage, face and 北京顺义国际学校 Chaoyang District Chaoyangmen Wai Chaoyang District朝阳区朝 8149 2345 18 body-care treatments, waxing treatments 26 (6533 6922) 朝阳区崔各乡新锦路号卓锦万代 and salon services, Aqua Salus is a one- 阳门外新城国际号楼 www.isb.bj.edu.cn Wangjing Campus

stop solution for almost any beauty needs. 10 Anhua Lu, Shunyi District 5738 9166/1332 110 6167 // Daily, 12am-12pm. 1) Taiyue Height 106, 16 Oriental Taipan Massage & Spa 顺义区安华路10号 Kylin Zone, Bldg 11, Fuan Xilu, Wangjing, Since 2002, Oriental Taipan has been pam- Chaoyang District Nan Sanlitun Lu Chaoyang District朝阳区南三 pering Beijing’s finest in their small chain 里屯路16号泰悦豪庭底商106 (6501 2881, www. SIBS Springboard International Blingual 朝阳区望京阜安西路11号楼合生麒麟社内 aquasalus.cn); 2)Lucky Street 1-17, 1 Chaoyang of contemporary spas. Calming flower School 君城国际双语学院 aromas, Zen music, and trickling feng shui www.sibs.com.cn Muffy’s Education Park Lu Chaoyang District朝阳区好运街1-17朝 fountains create a soothing atmosphere in 8049 2450 儿童英语之家阳公园路1号 (6501-6639, www.aquasalus.cn) each of their locations, while a long list of 15 Gucheng Duan, Huosha Lu, Houshayu www.muffys.cn Dragonfly Therapeutic Retreat treatments from around the world cater to Zhen, Shunyi District 1) Shijicheng- all pampering needs. Created as a contemporary urban retreat, 顺义区后沙峪镇火沙路古城段15号 8843 0104/8843 0373 // Daily, 12am-midnight. Sunjoy Mansion, 6 5/F West of Huibo Building, Opposite to Dragonfly is an oasis of peace and tran- Ritan Lu, Chaoyang District 6 quility in the midst of the hectic city. 朝阳区日坛路号 Western Academy of Beijing The elementary school affliated to Renmin // Daily, 10am-late. 1)60 Donghuamen Dajie (400 001 0202, www.taipan.com.cn) 京西国际学校 University Landianchang Lu, Haidian District (near The Peninsula Hotel and Oriental Plaza) 5986 5588 海淀区蓝靛厂路人大附小对面汇博大厦西侧5层 Dongcheng District东城区东华门大街60号(近 www.wab.edu

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 77 CLASSIFIEDS

Accommodation Lanson Place LA BELLEZA 9/F Tower 2 China Central Place Lanson Place Central Park Serviced La Belleza means Beauty and Aesthetics in 79 Jianguo Road Ascott China Residences, located in the Central Business Spanish. Professional hair-designers from Chaoyang District Enjoy our hot offer this summer with 20% District of Chaoyang, offers spacious Hong Kong ,Korea and China gather here. Close to Dawanglu station (Line 1) savings on Best Available Rates in Ascott apartments in two, three and four bedroom LA BELLEZA is the hairdressing salon for Regus China Life Tower Beijing, Ascott Raffles City Beijing, Somerset configurations as well as penthouses you with its pleasant atmosphere, excellent 5/F China Life Tower ZhongGuanCun Beijing from now to 30 overlooking a charming landscaped garden. service, and finest products. 16 Chaoyangmenwai Street September 2013. Take your pick from these The interiors are contemporary and restful New haircut! Good mood! Excellent life! Chaoyang District wonderful destinations and let us provide while marble-clad bathrooms and kitchens Add: F4 No.408, Jinbao Place .Jinbao Street Close to Chaoyangmen station (Line 2) you and your loved ones with a warm are fully equipped. No88,Dongcheng District, Beijing, china. Regus China World Tower 3 welcome in Beijing this summer. Now is Website: www.lansonplace.com Website: www.labelleza.com.cn 15/F China World Tower 3 the time to choose your favorite service Lanson Place Central Park Residences Tel: 010 8522 1626 1 Jianguomenwai Avenue apartments, open your summer tour! Tower 23, Central Park, No.6 Chaoyangmen- Luxura tanning 乐晒日光浴中心 Chaoyang District www.ascottchina.com wai Avenue,Chaoyang District, Beijing Tel: 8588 9588 Fax: 8588 9549 For everyone that always needs to have a Close to Guomao station (Line 1, 10) Ascott Beijing healthy and sexy tan, Regus IFC No.108B Jian Guo Road, Chaoyang District The Millennium Residences of the Beijing luxura tanning centre is the #1 professional 10/F, IFC East Tower Tel: 6567 8100 Fortune Plaza tanning chain in china. 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Beijing TOP-A Vehicle Service Co., Ltd was ity.com Very modern, Italian-designed 480sqm Tel: 86 10 64697000 Tel: 010-58709188 / 400-881-6988 set up specifically to cater for the needs of four-bedroom, three-bathroom the expatriate communities, we provide: FraserSuite CBD Beijing apartment for rent. Fully furnitured, English -speaking driver, Long-short term The ultimate luxury in apartment living, located about 10 mins from the East leasing, Airport-Pick up/ Drop off, Sedan, Fraser Suites CBD Beijing epitomizes style Third Ring Road in Shuangjing. No agent! Van and Bus. and comfort, that surpasses the service RMB45,000 per month. Contact the Email: [email protected] level of many Beijing hotels. The 357 landlord direct: Eva Zhang 13810298718 Website: www.expatslife.com Gold-Standard Beijing apartment features [email protected] Tel: 64381634 Mobile: 13501237292 contemporary concepts designed for luxury living. 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78 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com presentation. The Leadership EMBA from the University of for an energetic, vibrant and responsible provides M.I.C.E services for renowned In the past 5 years, we have handled numer- Maryland Sales Associate with outstanding sales companies worldwide. ous catering projects covering diplomatic/ Robert H. Smith School of Business is a and communication skills who can work Add: Bright China Chang An Building, business functions for embassies, high- unique learning experience in Beijing. The under pressure. The responsibilities for Tower 2, Unit 921-926, 7 Jianguomen Nei end cocktail receptions for luxuries brands, program offers world class executive and this position will include developing and Avenue (Fax: +86 (0)10 6517 1371; Email: automobiles and month-long hospitality leadership education from some of the best maintaining a client pipeline and planning [email protected]; Website: www.tui.cn; Tel: center services. Find out more from our professors the world has to offer. Every and hosting luxury events. 8519 8800 Website: www.zdc-catering.com month one of the professors from the If you are interested this opportunity and University of Maryland comes to Beijing meet our requirements please send your to instruct the class for 4 consecutive CV to [email protected] Real Estate Agents CONSULTING SERVICE days (Thurs – Sun). The program lasts 18 months; the impact lasts a lifetime. JOANNA REAL ESTATE RELOCATION Email: [email protected] SPORTS SERVICE Tel: 8526 2528/29 We are one of China’s leading real estate Beijing Hikers agencies boasting an extensive database These friendly folk have been organising of high-end properties for rent. We have FURNITURE hikes around Beijing since 2001. Explore helped thousands of expatriates find their interesting and hard to reach places, safely homes as well as hundreds of companies Crossover and hassle-free. They also venture out to re-locate their employees. Once we have Crossover Center Flagship Store, is other popular scenic spots across China. found you your ideal home we will be on mainly marketing international super home Address: Room 4012, Building A, 10 hand to deal with any post move issues furnishing brand products. Jiuxianqiao Zhong Lu, Chaoyang 朝阳区酒 and our dedicated after sales team will be Our agent brands include Poltrona Frau, 仙桥中路星科大厦 A 座 4 层 4012 室 Cassina, Fritz Hansen, Moroso, Cappellini, Telephone: 6432 2786 contactable 7 days a week to help you with Timothy Oulton, Tom Dixon etc, over 20 Website: www.beijinghikers.com any queries you have throughout your stay international super home furnishing brands. in our country. Our products are covered with all of fields California Fitness Beijing Club. For more information please contact us: in daily-life home furnishing, including California Fitness Beijing is over 3,000 Email: [email protected] furniture, furnishing, lighting, dinning, and sqm, with modern exercise equipment, Website: http://beijing.joannarealestate. office supplies etc. cardio and resistance training, steam com.cn/ (Tel: 84585667 ; 13501358971) Harris Corporate Services Ltd Website: www.crossovercenter.com rooms, group exercise studios and more. NO.81 North Road San-Li-Tun Bar St. Chao- Our Group X program is among the best “One of a Kind” Beijing | Shanghai | Guangzhou | Hong Kong Yang District.Beijing.100027,P.R.C. in the region, and with membership you —173m² duplex apt. in Park Avenue,well- Tel: 5208 6112/6113 Fax: 8610-5208 6123 have access to over 150 weekly Group X managed and good security Established since 1972 classes and a team of professional personal compound,near Chaoyang Park,2 beds trainers in Asia. Your membership also and 2 baths,master-room with walk-in WFOE & Rep. Office Set Up Hotels includes free towel usage and a fitness closet,delightful furnishing,come with 80m² Accounting & Tax Compliance assessment. private GARDEN,¥20800/m Payroll, HR & Visa Solutions Lusongyuan Hotel Address: South Tower,L4,No.9 Guanghua —122m² duplex apt. in Central Park at Hong Kong & Offshore Company Registration A traditional quadrangle compound Road ,Chaoyang District , Beijing . CBD,2 beds and 2 baths,very cosy,high Hong Kong & China Bank Account Opening composing of 5 courtyards, in the “hutong” Fax: 010-65871477 floor,¥19500/m area of Beijing. The hotel building is famous Website: www,californiafitness.com —110m² “King-Size” one bed apt. in Central Serving all your business needs for invest- for its imperial Qing Dynasty style, and Tel: 4008-100-988 Park,delicate furniture,large living and ing in China. Call us for a free consultation. boasts a history dating back 170 years. The dining area ¥15500/m original owner of this large private house Cycle China Inc. 北京非常之旅 for viewing please call frankie at 10- Tel: (86)10-6591 8087 was the former defense minister, Grand Cycle China provides organized cycling and 85325104 or 13911091759 PROPERTY ONE Mobile: 186-019-43718 General Sengge Rinchen, who lived here hiking tours in and around Beijing as well Email: [email protected] while carrying out official duties. as longer tours throughout China. Some Replus-Benchmark Tel: (86 10) 6404 0436 of their more popular tours take cyclists “Replus-Benchmark” is one of the leading Beijing: Fax: (86 10) 6403 0418 through the Olympic Green, Tian’anmen real estate agencies and relocation service Room 2302, E-Tower, No.12 Guanghua Address: Square, and Beijing’s traditional hutongs. provider for expatriates in Shanghai, Road, Chaoyang District, Beijing, PRC. No.22 Banchang Lane , Kuanjie, Dongcheng Address:No. 12 Jingshan East Street, Beijing, Guangzhou, Chengdu and 北京市朝阳区光华路 12 号数码 01 大厦 2302 District, Beijing 100009, China Dongcheng District, Beijing 东城区景山东 Shenzhen. 12 室中国北京东城区宽街板厂胡同 22 号街号 • Residential Home Search Service Email us at [email protected] or www.the-silk-road.com • Visa Application [email protected] Shanghai: E-mail: [email protected] • Commercial Office Space Search Service Tel: 6402 5653 Mobile: 13911886524 Suite 904, OOCL Plaza, 841 Yan An Zhong • Buying and Selling Property Service Road, Jing-An District, Shanghai, PRC. E-mail: [email protected] 上海市静安区延安中路 841 号东方海外大厦 HOUSEKEEPING Website: www.replus-benchmark.com 904 室 S torage A-1509,Xiaoyun Center, No.15 of Xiaoyun JNY Home Service Guangzhou: Koala Ministorage Road, Chaoyang District Beijing JNY Home Service was established in Tel: 84467119 Fax: 84467577 Room D-E, 11/F., Yueyun Building, 3 2007, supplying foreign families with Koala Ministorage is the first professional Zhongshan 2nd Road, Guangzhou, PRC. English speaking/non-English Speaking self-storage provider in Beijing. To learn 广州市中山二路 3 号 ( 东山口 ) 粤运大厦 11 nannies(maids), either daily or live-in. more, visit our website www.koalaministor- Recording Studios 楼 D-E 室 As a part of our service,we make sure all age.com. To make a reservation, call us toll free at 400-017-8889, email us at references and ID cards are thoroughly Baihua Recording Studio: Hong Kong: checked to guarantee the safety and health [email protected], or visit Established in 1981, costings RMB10 million 7/F., Hong Kong Trade Centre, 161-167 Des of your family. one of our stores. for a total space of 400sqm, our studio is Voeux Road Central, Hong Kong. Email : [email protected] 香港德辅道中 161-167 号香港贸易中心 7 楼 Mobile: 13426362833(24h) built on a foundation of spring-formed TRAVEL SERVICES cement suspension structures. Beijing Office-TMF Group Beijing EX-PATS Service This is a place worthy of being Asia’s finest In order to enable clients benefit from Healty, reliable, experienced, English- Silk Road Travel Management Ltd. recording studio. Here you’ll find China’s hi- the increasing globalization of the worlds speaking housemaid/ nanny. Free agency Silk Road Travel is a pioneer in organizing fi music holy land, the fountain of Chinese economy, TMF Group offers a compre- and 24- hour English service. Medical Silk Road tours and other classic routes Rock and Roll music. hensive range of corporate administrative and Accident insurrance covered. EXPATS through China. Founded in 1997, we are We’ve recorded with artists like Tang outsourcing services in 67 counties across Life Group also serves with Mandarin, car specialized in tailor made travel packages Dynasty, Black Panther, Compass, He Yong the globe. With a genuine global network leasing, English-speaking driver, Chinese that allow travelers to truly experience – “Garbage”, Zhang Chu - “Sisters”, Chen and qualified staff, TMF group provides an driving license, vehicle registration. local cultures and explore China’s amazing Sheng – “One Night in Beijing”; this is just array of accounting, corporate secretarial [email protected] cultural heritage. Whether you are a small the tip of the iceberg. and HR administrative outsourcing services. Website: www.expatslife.com group of 2-9 persons or a corporate group, Many musicians have come here to record [email protected] Tel: 64381634 our professional staff will design a tour their music, and Baihua Studio is THE place Website: http://www.tmf-group.com Mobile: 13501237292 program based on your needs. to make music. CCTV Tower and Kerry Centre Email: [email protected] Equipment Sales, Speaker/Equipment Suite 3107, Tower A Beijing Fortune Plaza,7 www.the-silk-road.com Rental, Music Training, and practice Dongsanhuan Zhong Road, Chaoyang District MOVING & SHIPPING Tel: (+852) 2736 8828 sessions are all available. Tel: 65330533-860 Fax: (+852) 2736 8000 You can find everything you need in Seven Seas Worldwide regards to music…HERE. EDUCATIONAL SERVICE Save up to 50%! We’re the first choice when Travel-Stone We are the home of your imagination, with it comes to moving baggage internationally We organize tailor made travels in China & quality level equipment and top level music from one box up to 2M3. We offer a global, Asia for expats. designed recording studio. Here is where Ivy Bilingual School door-to-door service with prices starting We speak English, French & Chinese. musicians make music happen. Ivy Bilingual School offers a curriculum from RMB 999 by sea and RMB 1580 by air. Room 1001, DongWai GongGuan, based on the Multiple Intelligences Call 400 181 6698 now for an instant quote theory and provides an immersive bilingual XinZhongjie Yi 3, Dongcheng Dist., Beijing The Baihua Music Education Team is or book online at www.sevenseasworld- Contact us: [email protected] formed from professional 1st line music program, where both Chinese and Western wide.com teachers interact with children throughout Tel: 5670 7458 artists, with professional attitudes and high the day. There are two Ivy Bilingual Schools quality programs taught by knowledgeable TUI China in Beijing. RECRUITMENTS music professors you can trust, in areas of Address:Building E, Ocean Express, No. An affiliate of World of TUI, the world’s guitar, bass, drums, and computer musicial 2 East Third Ring North Road, Chaoyang leading tourism group, TUI China was programs. The Pearl Golf Club established in late 2003 as the first joint District, Beijing 100027 The Pearl Golf Club, an American owned Website: www.ivyschools.com venture with foreign majority share in the Baihua Recording Studio, No.16, Xinjiekou and operated company is the largest Chinese tourism industry. Its headquarters Email: [email protected] luxury golf simulation club in Beijing. The South Street, Baihuashenchu Xicheng 010 8446 7287 are in Beijing whilst its operations reach District. Pearl Golf Club is an exclusive, members- deep into the far corners of China. World only club designed to serve the unique 百花录音棚 , 北京市西城区 of TUI generated approx.50,000 predomi- LEMBA needs of Beijing’s elite. We are looking nantly western tourists to China yearly and

November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 79 CRYPTIC PICTURES Win! Win Gilles Peterson tickets and more! World music... Isn’t that, like, bongos or something? Prepare for your minds to be blown by BBC Radio DJ, producer and geezer Gilles Peterson’s (see p. 37) Beijing debut. DJ GP (as we call him) will blow into sexy Taikoo Li North nightspot CICADA UltraLounge (p.57) for a Nov 7 UltraSet. We’re offering a pair of VIP tix plus exclusive swag, including a bag and goodies, signed poster and music merchandise. Send ‘World Musicians’ answers to [email protected], subject ‘November Cryptic Pictures’ by Nov 6, bitches. How it works: Each picture represents a word or syllable. Spoken out loud the below combinations will create the name of a 20th-century world musician. 1 2

3 4

8 9

October issue answers 1. Warhol 2. Kahlo 3. Lichtenstein 4. Dali 5. Man Ray 6. Rothko 7. Picasso 8. Hopper 9. Pollock 10. Haring

Last month’s answers: 1. Little Drummer Boy 2. Rudolph 3. Jack Frost 4. Nutcracker 5. Grinch 6. Baby Jesus 7. Mrs. Claus 8. Old St. Nick 9. Tiny Tim

80 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com 封三.pdf 1 13-9-25 上午1:04

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6 November 2013 // www.thatsmags.com