FREE Ludlow HERITAGE NEWS

Published twice a year by Ludlow Civic Society • www.ludlowcivicsociety.org No 72 Spring / Summer 2020

INSIDE THIS ISSUE:

AN OUTLINE HISTORY OF THE TOWN WALLS | GALDEFORD TOWER | LUDLOW TOWN WALLS TRUST

An outline history of the town walls Town wall from St John’s Garden.

Town walls, also referred to as defensive walls, are a fortification used to protect a town or other settlement from attack by a potential aggressor. Apart from their defensive roles, in many cases they had a symbolic role, representing in visible form the power projection of the comuunity they surrounded. They formed part of a wider group of defensive buildings which included large walls which were used to demarcate a particular region or territory, such as Hadrian’s Wall which once separated England Town wall from Lower Mill Street. from Scotland.

Most surviving town walls are a town ditch which also provided being considered among the earliest Lucca and Valletta. However, this of masonry construction, although further defence to a town or examples. They were also found article outlines their development in brick and timber were also used. settlement. Salisbury made do with in the architecture of such diverse Britain and Ireland. Here, defensive Town walls could be either free- a simple ditch. civilisations as those of the Indus walls have a long history and can standing or built as a retaining wall Defensive walls are found all Valley and ancient China. Many of be traced back to the structures as is the case with a subsantial part over the world, with the walls the finest extent examples are found of earth and stone put up around of Ludlow’s walls. They were often surrounding Uruk in Mesopotamia in mainland Europe, including henges and hill forts, as well as constructed in conjunction with Aigues-Mort, Avila, Dubrovnik, domestic settlements. Ludlow HERITAGE NEWS

with Edward I’s ‘ring of iron’, the Welsh Marches and the Scottish York has been encircled by walls since 71AD border, but not all walled towns although little survies from this era. flourished, for whatever reason, and local examples of this include Clun and New Radnor.The last main phase of concerted activity in the construction of town walls, occurred during the English Civil War of the 1640s, although, at this time, towns often had their walls complemented by other forms of defence. In Ireland the development of town walls mirrored developments in mainland Britain, albeit with a time lag, as the Norman invasion of the island took place at a much later date. Also in Ireland, the town walls of the plantation era, such as those at Derry, form one of the finest examples of defensive walls anywhere in Europe. Town walls were often a More sophisticated card-shaped Wessex began a wide programme anarchy period between 1135 and continuing work in progress, with walls in stone and mortar were to protect its population from 1153. If a town was considered a masonry walls replacing earlier erected by the Romans after Danish invaders. Walls were military base, this became one of wooden constructions as is the case thir arrival in Britain. They also also constructed in the Midlands the main reasons for erecting walls at Worcester and Hereford. Access enclosed existing towns with in towns such as Bridgnorth, at this time. Earthen ramparts were to the town was through gateways. walls. Some evidence of these Tamworth and Worcester which a cheaper option than masonry Most towns had between four and walls survives in the plans of such came under the protection of construction, and were still used six gates which were sometimes cities as Chester, Colchester, Exeter, Wessex. during the medieval period at supplemented by smaller entrances. London and Winchester. In some places such as Sandwich. Town gates were often a feature of After the Norman invasion, many civic pride and were sometimes cases, the foresight of the Roman new towns were laid out, often The next stage of development builders and the quality and size adorned with statues and coats of dominated by stone castles which occurred from the twelfth century arms. Gateways often became focal of their walls meant that their provided refuge in times of crisis. onwards, with towns becoming constructions remained in use for points where people often met to In the main, these towns were increasingly self-sufficient. In 1189 trade and carry out business. the next few centuries. Although walled at a later date. During the the city of Hereford, for example, in many cases, the town walls of the reign of William I, new cathedrals took over the control of its own Many town walls had crenellated Roman era have been much altered at Canterbury, Exeter and Lincoln defences. Around 1220 a ‘murage’ tops but most of these have and extended to take account of were constructed within existing tax was introduced which allowed been lost as a result of neglect revised street plans and new types Roman walls. King Stephen towns to raise taxes on goods or rebuilding. Large sections of of building in the medieval period. ordered the heightening of the old coming into a town, to be used crenellations remain at Tenby The next concerted wave of Roman walls in Bath. The building for the purpose of building new and York. Most town walls also wall-building occurred in the late of new town walls was possibly town walls and repairing existing contained a number of towers often ninth century when the kingdom of spurred on by the ‘civil war’ of the fortifications. By the fourteenth used for accommodation or storage century, under the encouragement as well as defence. The number of of the national government, most towers was often dictated by the towns had become more or less amount of money allocated to the financially, and in some cases project as a whole. politically, self-reliant. The gates of How successful town walls the town walls were used to collect were in keeping invaders out is tolls and to monitor the movement open to debate. Some town walls of people. Some walls were erected had ditches adjacent to them to quickly, as at Shrewsbury, but in increase their defensive potential. other places it took many decades to Town walls appear to have been complete a circuit. Some schemes maintained in a piece-meal fashion, were over-ambitious, and the walls often falling into periods of neglect, in places such as Scarborough and followed by periods of frenzied Stafford were left incomplete. The maintenance in times of civil unrest. most impressive fortified town As the country as a whole became walls tend to be found in areas of more settled, after the Civil War, the Aigues-Mortes (France), surrounded by 13th century walls listed as a historical potential strife, including Wales, monument since 1903. defensive nature of the walls became

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Avila (Spain), completed between the 11th and 14th centuries. Listed as a national monument in 1884.

less important. Many were seen as a especially following the seizure of that some sections designed as free Works consulted: restrictive girdle upon the growth of power by Llewellyn ap Gruffudd in standing have over time become M.W.Barley, Town Defences in a town. Walls were often neglected 1255. The walls appear to have been load bearing. As with the collapsed England and Wales after 1066. and sometimes even appropriated completed by about 1304. It is now section adjacent to the garden of 1976 into the property against which accepted that Ludlow had some rest. they now stood, as is the case in sort of earlier defensive fortification John Kenyon, Medieval Little documentary evidence Fortifications. 1990 Ludlow. In the eighteenth century, centred on the somewhat irregular survives from the time of their with improvements to the roads, layout of the area of the town construction, so it is difficult to Mike Salter, Medieval Walled many gateways and sections of walls around Dinham and St Thomas’s get a complete picture of how they Towns, 2013 were demolished to make way for Chapel. The walls were constructed looked and functioned. This is in C.J.Train, The Walls and Gates of wider roads. At the same time, the with four main gates and three complete contrast to the eighteenth Ludlow. 199 rise of antiquarianism and tourism postern gates. An eighth portal gate and nineteenth centuries, when meant that remaining walls became existed in the wall to the north west artists flocked to the town and appreciated for their picturesque of the Castle, located in the grounds depicted walls that were in a far appearance, and often became of Castle Walk House. The walls better state than exists today. features of the touristic circuit, are built of a local somewhat flimsy opened to the public, with walkways grey siltstone which makes them laid on top. In Ludlow, the Broad somewhat prone to collapse, which Stanton Stephens Gate was turned into a Georgian has occurred many times over the town house, with a regency wing years. The integrity of the walls has added in the early nineteenth also been compromised by the fact century. The best town walls in Britain Derry, built between 1613 and 1618. Extensive restoration carried out in 2005. and Ireland include those at York, Chester, Conway, Rye, Berwick- upon-Tweed, Derry, Caernarfon, Carlisle, Tenby and Canterbury. In Ludlow, the town wall survives, but with much rebuilt. Most of the town wall was built as a retaining wall, rather than a free-standing wall. The route of the walls followed not only the contours of the land but had to take into account the existing layout of the town. It was planned as early as the 1230s, but little appears to have been completed before 1260, no doubt spurred on by the increasing instability on the Welsh border during the thirteenth century,

THREE Ludlow HERITAGE NEWS GALDEFORD TOWER A variety of names have been attached to this building since 1269, Galdeford’s Tower is mentioned have still been capable of fulfilling including the Tower, Caldeford, Ludlow Gaol, Galdeford Tower and sometime before 1537 in a humble its original role, albeit only briefly. Gauvets, all used to describe the eastern gate of Ludlow’s town walls. petition for release from a prisoner With the abolition of the Council Who Gauvet was is unknown; maybe he was a Constable of the Tower. lodged there, to Sir Thomas in the Marches in 1689, and The structure itself served gateway, and extensions within the Cornewall (1472-1537) for ‘having subsequent disintegration of the several purposes apart from that of wall. Hence, we have the Burgess in his idle humour of drynke made Castle and its own gaol, Gaolford fortification: the Corporation met Tower to host errant burgesses, some words of abuse towards your became the principal residence for here (ad turrim) until the building Chenser’s Tower for those of lesser worship’. Cornewall, who styled the delinquent. From the various of the ‘New House’, and even status, but who still had a right himself the tenth Baron Burford, references to ‘gateway’ and ‘tower’, afterwards for the annual election to trade in the town, and the bog was made a member of the Council it is a credible theory that they were of officers. It was also the principal standard horror of the Thieves in the Marches in 1521, though separate entities. The gatekeeper town gaol where various social Tower. In 1776 a payment was the abuser seems to have been might not necessarily have been a classes of prisoner were recognised made for the ‘Broad Street Ward locked up by the town authorities, resident of the tower, or even the by the individual naming of parts of Chamber in the Tower’ which, who enforced respect towards the gaoler. No accurate pictures exist what must have been a substantial together with the Corporation Council. There is no record of of the old gateway, but in the course building, probably with a semi- meeting room and accommodation the outcome or the name of the of redevelopment on the south side circular D Tower either side of the for the gaoler, suggests a large prisoner. of Tower street in 1977, traces were number of rooms. Leland recorded a Galfride uncovered and recorded. Gate in 1540, and further evidence The town walls, like the Castle, Galdeford Tower, Possible the earliest reference has been unearthed by C.J.Train, that ‘Galdeford Tower’ continued were built of the local Silurian looking towards as a gaol next occurs in 1603, Siltstone. This generally weathers Upper Galdeford. dating from 1269, with the rather mystifying ‘ A great earthquake; demonstrating that the tower was very badly, but Pevsner claims that Galdeford Gate (Porta de Galford) used to house prisoners, in addition framing the material with a harder was begun from its foundations.’ to the Porter’s Lodge prison then stone lengthens its life. He also Train follows this with a further existing inside the Castle. This claims that it can be cut to an ashlar event in 1274 when the tower latter seems to have been mostly for surface, though Alec Clifton-Taylor was clearly a working part of the Welsh offenders. states ‘it could not be ashlared.’ to defences, and the Gatekeeper In 1642, during the Civil juge by the fairly rapid weathering (Custos porte de Caldeford), one War, Ludlow was occupied by of the eighteenth-century gaol on Richard Tyrel, was kidnapped by Prince Rupert, ‘who entrenched the site of the Tower, this problem two Cleobury men who failed himself very strongly and made remained unsolved, leading to the to produce a bill of sale for oxen fortifications for the preservation building being rendered in the bought at the St Laurence fair. An of himself and associates.’ given twentieth century. interesting twist, demonstrating that Ludlow was one of the last After the abolition of the Council that the walls kept villains in as well towns to fall to the Parliamentarians in the Marches, the Castle and as out. in1646, the Gaolford Gate must its Porter’s Lodge prison became THE GATES The Broad Gate. We will now take a brief look at the other gates.

1. DINHAM GATE 3. BROAD GATE Victorian research suggested that the gate was The only surviving gate from the thirteenth a sally port or barbican with a second entrance. century, with a two-centred arch of red Rare pictures show it to be a squarish block, with sandstone, and portcullis slots between a pair no projecting round towers and a room above of drum towers that framed the bridge over the entrance. The narrow gateway was designed the town ditch. Early on it served as a prison for pack-horses. Its demolition in 1786 enabled with a dungeon based in the east tower, but Thomas Telford to construct a temporary timber from the beginning of the eighteenth century bridge on top of the old one to carry wagons. it was a dwelling house for a series of doctors This was replaced in 1823 with the current and lawyers, one of whom, Dr Samuel Sprott, bridge. was responsible for its north-facing appearance. From 1814 to 1946 it was the home of the Lloyd family. Henry Lloyd built the Gothick gatehouse 2. MILL GATE on the south side of the western tower in about A small gate flanked by semi-circular towers 1824. and capped with a conical roof.

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ruinous, though the lodge may have buttress on the north side to the prison of this town, in the place of not even the facility of an exercise ceased to function as a prison before chimney place on the south side, Gaolford’s Tower, an ancient prison yard. However, take-up of the that. As an overspill or a detention and to rebuild the same in a good and gate, by length of time having limited facilities seemed low. centre for less political and more and workmanlike manner, and become ruinous.’ Howard’s report in 1777 recorded mundane malefactors, Gaolford to build the chimney up from the An improving text on such a ‘For felons etc. two lower rooms, Tower gradually superseded the dungeon. Have to find the materials building seemed almost mandatory, vaulted, with chimneys. Two Castle. In the 1760s the medieval themselves, and bring them to the witness the terse and alarming rooms above, more spacious building had also reached the site where they will be paid a sum message at the House of Correction and airy for Debtors.’ By 1793, end of its shelf-life, ‘by length of of £35. Work is to be completed by in Belfast ‘Within Amend, Without following personal advice from time having become ruinous’ as 1 September next.’ Pritchard was Beware’. Fragments of the tower Howard, Thomas Telford, as the inscription on its replacement paid two guineas by the Bailiff of seemed to survive within the County Surveyor, had completed explained. Whatever remained on Ludlow in 1765, possibly for having development; the Post Office the new county gaol at Shrewsbury, the north side of Tower Street was designed or supervised the building. Directory of 1863 recording There a ground-breaking design demolished or incorporated in 1764 The builders may in the end have is a police station and a small incorporating the new ideas. It when the Corporation authorised been the Hattam family, who also structure called Gaolford Tower’. became the receiving house for the construction of the new gaol. worked on the Guildhall and lived The police station was occupied the harder cases from local towns William Baker (1705-1771), at 137 Corve Street. by 1836 when ‘a body of police including Ludlow. architect of the Buttercross prepared To judge from today’s remains, consisting of seven men has been The building contained a police a scheme for ‘repairing Ludlow the front of the building was of lately appointed for the preservation court where Petty Sessions were Gaol’ by March 1763. this was dressed, coursed Clee Hill stone, of peace and tranquillity of this heard every alternate Monday put into the hands of the architect and a photograph of 1895 shows borough.’ at twelve noon, and was used as Thomas Farnolls Pritchard (1723- a seriously eroded stone face with The date of the gaol meant a venue for inquests. In 1913 1777), and in June a survey and hints of what appears to be squared that it just missed the new wave Superintendent James Parry was in plan had been prepared for repairs ashlar facing. A later picture taken of prison reforms. John Howard charge with one sergeant and four to the tower, so at this stage there around 1955 (to judge by the (1726-90) published The State of the constables. The station moved to was no intention to demolish the Landrover) shows that the stone Prisons in 1777; Jeremy Bentham its new location around 1970 and old structure. An estimate was then had been rendered for the first two (1748-32) and his all-seeing eye, the old gaol was demolished in the submitted by Davies and Watkiss storeys in faux linear stonework the ‘Panopticon’ was still several 1970s. A fragment of Pritchard’s to repair and alter the tower ‘in the courses either side of the central years from being taken seriously, work, or even the original wall manner intended by Mr Pritchard, bay with smooth render above. The whilst the prison architect, William remains on the west end leading with the following additional work recessed inscription stone above Blackburn (1750-90) had yet to find up the alley to some red brick which is not mentioned by him the door seems to have been filled inspiration in his designs from the fragments, probably of the police although absolutely necessary’. This in and replaced with the Shropshire Penitentiary Act of 1779. Whilst station. was seemingly a separate contract Council coat of arms. The original never intended to be any more than from one signed on 22nd May inscription on the front proclaimed, a means of detaining local petty Richard Hurlock 1764, when Thomas Watkiss and ‘This building was erected at offenders, the result was a bleak Thomas Sheward were engaged the charge of the corporation in three-bay box with a ‘gable-like ‘to pull down the westward front MDCCLXIV, in the fourth year of steep impediment’, slightly extended of Gaolford’s Tower from the King George III, for the common from the façade. At first there was

4. OLD GATE 6. UPPER CORVE GATE The Old Gatehouse and the adjoining Corve Gate, at the top of Corve Street, was Lane’s were used as a workhouse and house of widened in 1796. The principal gates would seem correction from 1676 until 1837, after which to have had a portcullis. The grooves remain at they were known as Lane’s Asylum, nd used as the Broad Gate and an account of 1556 records almshouses. Some stonework in the Old Gate the cost of ‘peynting the portcolys’ at Corve Gate. probably relates to the early twin drum-tower defence system that guarded the road here. It was 6 (a). LOWER (NETHER) described as ‘only recently destroyed’ in 1808. Originally, Old Street ran down to a ford which CORVE GATE took the ancient route south across the river to It is a mystery why this gate existed. Not part Ludford. This was also the site of the town stocks. The only remaining habitable of the main walls, it was linked to the wealthy tower on the town wall. Priory of the Grey Friars. The Priory suffered 5. GAOLFORD TOWER destruction around 1535. In 1712 William Stukely noted, ‘There was a rich Priory...about 7. LINNEY GATE Also known as Galdeford or Gauvet’s tower, it the same time an arched gateway went across the Still collecting tolls in 1751, it was probably consisted of at least two towers with gateway and street but is now demolished.’ With little military demolished around when St Leonard’s House chamber between. This became the town gaol. value, it may have marked a ‘zone’ where the was built. In the 1880s the portcullis grooves and The Corporation also had rooms here. In 1764 it Town Writ tolerated traffic in curfew hours, and door jambs were uncovered during repairs when was entirely replaced with a new gaol designed by the temporary residence of the Welsh. the strange brick attachment was erected. Farnolls Pritchard that was added to with a police station with court around 1836. A fragment Richard Hurlock survives in brick and stone on the west side while the rest was demolished around 1970.

FIVE Ludlow HERITAGE NEWS

Ludlow View of town wall from the town ditch. Town Walls Trust The Ludlow Town Walls Trust was set up in 2007 at the behest of English Heritage to form a coordinated body to represent and oversee the repair and well-being of this extensive Scheduled Ancient Monument. Until this point there had not been an overall identification of the condition and potential threats to the wall or a strategy to respond to the then frequent collapses which were occurring all round the perimeter. English Heritage were concerned that by simply responding to incidents and negotiating with the many different owners, this was an inefficient way of managing a situation which had common factors of cause, economic impact and repair specification. An underlying concept of the were made up of individuals the major repair to the wall techniques used along the wall, Trust was that by becoming a with expertise in local history, bounding the park at St John’s Road, which corresponded to the old registered charity, it could raise conservation, building technology, and the coordination of works to burgage plots along the north face. the overall understanding and and property owners with areas strengthen and repair the boundary Archaeologists have suggested this public profile of the monument, of wall in their custody. South wall to Castle Street car park. may be attributed to individual receive and make grants, and work Shropshire District Council A key area of the Trust’s work responsibility for construction in partnership with public bodies nominated a Chief Officer and has been the monitoring of the of sections of wall abutting and private owners to ensure the myself as Conservation Officer to condition of the Walls either independent properties, much long-term care and interpretation help integrate the work of the local through professional surveys the same as individual villages of the wall. Its first chairman was authority to provide assistance to or collating evidence from local being responsible for constructing Graeme Kidd, who encouraged the Ludlow Town Walls Trust. people who have observed localised sections of the Great Wall of China Ludlow Town Council to become a Graeme sadly died in 2009, defects which at any given time passing through their domain. key supporter of the Trust, awarding since when Richard Cundall has can be more easily remedied than The Trust has from the outset it an annual grant to assist with the been chairman. Under Richard’s allowing further degradation to a recognised that education and running costs and undertaking a tenure the Trust has supported the point where major intervention is skills training are key requirements condition survey of the wall. LTC undertaking of a building skills required. An interesting adjunct for maintaining an understanding provided a nominated councillor training workshop during the to the various condition surveys of the Town Wall in Ludlow’s to the management committee rebuilding of a collapsed section of has been the identification of history and retaining a capability as did Ludlow Civic Society. The walling at the rear of the Feathers, subtle variations in the building to continue its traditional repair. remaining committee members

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As such, the Trust has had a long involvement with the South Shropshire Skills Trust and its long-standing Ludlow/Transylvania Trans-National Partnership. Over two hundred local craftsmen and students have now taken part in the project helping to repair fortified churches and traditional vernacular buildings in Romania, while learning the skills of traditional lime-rendering, lime-burning, stone quarrying and brick and tile making. The Trust has for a number of years been lobbying and providing expertise to the public bodies responsible for the repair to the Town Walls Trust will cease to be Section of town wall adjacent to Castle Street car park. collapsed section of wall in front of a separate organisation. Richard St Laurence’s Church, and it is now Cundall, Stephen Treasure and I encouraging to see movement on have agreed to remain as advisors to this issue. LCS relating to Ludlow Town Walls With the contraction of services for a period of three years, and in local government, Shropshire thereafter to review the position. Council has sought to rationalise The Walls have stood for eight its involvement with the many hundred years as a key element of individual heritage trusts across Ludlow’s unique identity, and long the county, and, where possible, to may they continue to do so. encourage one primary organisation to represent the various interests Colin Richards in any given community or area. Ludlow Civic Society is now embracing that role, and Ludlow

Town wall adjacent to the High Hall at Ludlow College. With an 18th century gazebo incorporated into the wall.

SEVEN Ludlow HERITAGE NEWS

Stanley Weyman, Ludlow’s great novelist awarded blue plaque that of other great writers, ebbed At noon on Friday 31st January a large crowd and flowed down the decades, but gathered on the pavement outside Number 54 his influential place in the history of English literature can never be Broad Street to witness the unveiling of the civic denied. And Ovington’s Bank, with society’s most recent blue plaque: ‘Stanley John its insightful analysis of how people think about money, and what Weyman (1855-1928) novelist, lived here.’ living a good life entails, is one of Local publisher and Civic Society member The ceremony was attended by century and the early decades of literature’s greatest novels. Merlin Unwin making an entertaining several members of the Weyman the twentieth, as well-known and Jim Lawley speech after the unveiling. family including fifteen-year-old highly-regarded as H.G.Wells, Amy Weyman, the novelist’s great- Oscar Wilde, Rudyard Kipling and great-niece, as well as by the press Robert Louis Stevenson. Stevenson, and numerous admirers. After in fact, sent Weyman letters of excellent speeches by Richard admiration, Oscar Wilde petitioned Hurlock, Chairman of the Civic the Home Office from Reading Society, and Merlin Unwin, Gaol to make Weyman’s novels publisher of Weyman’s masterpiece available to convicts, and Hugh Ovington’s Bank, some forty Walpole described him as ‘one of people retired to the Angel for the finest masters of the narrative refreshments generously provided gift the English novel has known’. by the Civic Society. Graham Greene was later to refer to Stanley Weyman was one of the Weyman’s historical novels as ‘key most illustrious British writers in books in my life’. the last decade of the nineteenth Weyman’s popularity has, like

Members of the Weyman family.

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BOOK REVIEW: How green is my house? foam on the undersides of roofing definitions that leave the reader In this issue we are re-introducing a section for tiles to improve insulation and unclear as to how to proceed. So, book reviews. We hope to make this a regular stop tiles slipping. A key point that for example, in relation to installing emerges time and again throughout breathable building materials, feature on books relating to Ludlow history and the book is the importance of the reader is advised to ask the conservation in general. letting your house breathe, and manufacturer technical details the avoidance of modern solutions on ‘breathability’: ‘as a minimum Old House Eco Handbook (2019, (admittedly attractive) photographs to heat insulation and damp- this could be supplied in the form 2nd edition) by Marianne Suhr and serve as eye candy and don’t really proofing (such as cement renders, of an MNs/g measure of vapour Roger Hunt. White Lion Publishing, illustrate any argument, or when impermeable membranes and resistance’ (p.50). What the humble in association with SPAB, £30, they do, the point is simplistic. non-breathable paints) that act as reader and homeowner who goes to pp.208. Do we really need, for example, a barriers to moisture flow, but simply this trouble does with this figure is William Morris, founder of picture of a house with windows divert the problem and cause harm not so clear. the Society for the Protection of open to illustrate the point that elsewhere. ventilation is improved by opening In the end, the book encompasses Ancient Buildings (SPAB), once The book claims to be a three identities: a handbook offering famously remarked, ‘We are only windows? Nevertheless, it is an appealing book to hold and read, ‘handbook’ and in the main offers sound advice to the homeowner trustees for those that come after sound practical advice on measures on how to repair and maintain us.’ He was, of course, referring to although a less glossy approach might have reduced its cost. that are easy to implement, such traditional buildings; a volume what he called ‘old buildings’, but as how to improve the thermal raising a series of questions that the sentiment applies equally well The book’s central practical efficiency of single-glazed sash need to be addressed and solved to the wider network of ecosystems chapters deal with such matters as windows without replacing them. by architects and contractors; and in which all building activities are modern retrofit materials, roofs and Much of the technical detail is well- a work exhorting us all to think situated, and which support the life ceilings, windows and doors, walls, explained, and the whole chapter green in planning the repair and of all creatures on this planet. It is floors, paints and heating. These are on paints offers some good advice renovation of historic buildings. If here, however, where tensions can sandwiched between opening and and much-needed clarity. But you are contemplating having work potentially arise. Old buildings, concluding chapters that deal with in other places the book swerves done on an old building, this book for all their aesthetic appeal and more reflective and philosophical between stating the blindingly would be a most useful purchase. cultural importance are often, to issues such as favouring repair over obvious (check the reputation of take one example, highly energy- restoration (something dear to any builder you employ), to dealing John Cartwright inefficient. Yet reducing energy Morris’s heart), ensuring that any with complex technical issues and consumption, and especially its modifications are reversible, and, associated carbon footprint, are now interestingly, the linkage between rightly regarded as urgent global sustainable building techniques and priorities. Yet the conflict is not as sustainable communities. Reading stark as one might imagine. It is one paragraph near the end brought not only a choice between saving Ludlow to mind: your single-glazed Georgian sash ‘Vibrant places improve local windows or saving the planet. With economic performance, enhance good sense and sensitivity, as this and support biodiversity, enable book seeks to prove, it is possible healthy living and foster pride to repair, maintain and modify old and community cohesion. People buildings to balance high ecological feel rooted in their surroundings, standards with the preservation of maintain their homes and know and their architectural and historical care about their neighbours.’ integrity. At a more practical level, it was The book itself is sponsored by good to read a convincing critique SPAB, and is, in effect, an ecological of some current popular practices updating of their highly successful such as the EPC certificate scheme, earlier publication, Old House the fluid-injection damp-proofing Handbook (2008). Its production industry that promotes its often values are high: hard covers, high- unsuccessful and damaging quality paper and an abundance techniques as the standard solution of photographs and informative to damp problems, the installation well-designed diagrams. A minor of UPVC windows, and the much criticism is that the book has touted quick fix of spraying sticky a ‘coffee-table’ feel to it: many

EIGHT NINE Ludlow HERITAGE NEWS

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We publish twice a year, in Summer and Winter Please contact Stanton: 01584 872562 The Concise History of A great deal is known about Ludlow and this The Concise History of The Concise History of illustratedTheA great history deal is tracesknown its about fascinating Ludlow development and this The Concise History of fromillustrated Anglo-Saxon history traces times itsright fascinating up to the development present day. Coming on 10 January! fromDavid Anglo-Saxon Lloyd tells the times town’s right story up toin thewhich present many day. of Coming on 10 January! DavidLittle Lloyd tells the town’s story in which many of the great dramas of English history have been played LUDLOW theout. great There dramas were of timesEnglish of historyplague haveand pestilence,been played LUDLOWDavid Lloyd out. There were times of plague and pestilence, A revised, expanded tremendous wealth, royal connections, local quarrels David Lloyd A revised, expanded andtremendous the ructions wealth, of the royal Civil connections, War. All have local shaped quarrels the andBig thecourse ructions of Ludlow, of the Civil one War.of England’s All have most shaped the edition of David Lloyd’s course ofbeautiful Ludlow, market one of England’stowns. most edition of David Lloyd’s beautiful market towns. popular history of Ludlow.

Cheese Shop popular history of Ludlow. Front cover: The tower of St Laurence’s, seen from Broad Street (© John Hayward) Back cover: Ludlow Castle (© Mark Ansell) LUDLOW Front cover: The tower of St Laurence’s, seen from Broad Street (© John Hayward) Back cover: Ludlow Castle (© Mark Ansell) LUDLOW Now in colour and

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TEN www.ludlowcivicsociety.org

Ludlow’s Repair Café The first Repair Café happened in the Netherlands in 2009,Repair and theCafe idea ad immediatelyfor Civic Society took root,magazine, Spring 202 spreading globally across thirty-three countries and is continuing to spread. Diane Lyle ran Ludlow’s first the initial core group doesn’t have Repair Café in October 2017, to commit to each event, although initially as a pilot, and, while the the majority do. Among the new footfall was light, there was clear recruits came a clock specialist who support for a second event from always has a queue, someone who both volunteer repairers and specialises in old radios, and an IT customers. After the second Café, specialist. it was even more evident that this While the quarterly pattern of needed to be a regular event in of Ludlow’s Repair Café is now Got something not workingBin it? No way! Ludlow’s calendar, and the current established, there is little or no properly or as it used to? quarterly pattern was quickly pattern about what items will arrive established. through the door. This means every Don't throw it away – bring it to one The ethos of a Repair Café Repair Café is different, and each is simple: rather than throw one a learning curve! Electrical of the Ludlow Repair Cafés. something away because it is broken items are regulars, and have been or just isn’t working as it used to, from the beginning, but these, too, We'll fix it if we can! bring it along to a Café to see if it offer a wide range of challenges can be repaired. from vacuum cleaners to toasters, — Next session — The idea of repairing something bread-making machines to food isn’t new, of course, but it is mixers, irons to fan heaters, Saturday, 25th July something which dates back to stereo and music systems to an earlier age when ‘things’ were radios, TVs and DVD players, Ludlow Mascall Centre harder to come by, when money hedge trimmers to leaf blowers, was short, when simply heading to electric drills to sanders, even a the shops, let alone going on-line, humidifier...the list is endless. Doors open 10.00 am. was not a first option, nor, indeed, The same can be said about Last repair accepted at 12 noon. a feasible one. The first option was the variety of non-electrical to take something apart, to see how items, too. Over the past it was made, to see what was wrong, two years, the repair team to see if it could be mended – and has tackled a torn tent, 07786 620 624 put back together again (using all an assortment of toys, [email protected] those screws!). including an almost When money was more plentiful decapitated old rocking and it was possible to buy new, horse, two very (very) precious the instinct to repair, indeed the dolls,, a Dalek, a sixty-five-year- satisfaction to both enjoyment of attempting to repair, old teddy bear who had lost his repairer and owner, because a remained, with the added challenge smile, antique glass, ceramics repair was at least attempted, and of keeping pace with the ever-more- and porcelain, items of furniture, the reason why a repair couldn’t be complex manufacturing proceses, curtains and clothing, mirrors and effected is explained. and defying, where possible, that photo-frames, garden tools even an Edwardian desk calendar. Because repairs cannot be built-in obsolescence. guaranteed, there is no charge, but The 2020 dates are: Not everything can be repaired, donations are requested to cover the That enjoyment, that sense of 25th July, Ludlow Mascall Centre challenge, abounds at each Ludlow of course, but the majority of items costs of running the Café, for room Repair Café as the repairers which come to a Repair Café are hire, insurance, replenishing central 31st October, Rockspring embrace whatever appears on their sent home again to live a little tool and admin. resources, and Community Centre longer. And every item which has table with enthusiasm, giving the advertising. For any specialist item needing its life extended means that adding atmosphere a real buzz. repair it’s advisable to check before to landfill has been avoided, at least Ludlow’s Repair Cafés alternate the event, as not every volunteer The 2017 Repair Café was for a while. That’s one of the main between Ludlow Mascall Centre can always be ‘on duty’. supported by a dozen repairers, feel-good factors of the Repair Café; and Rockspring Community including three specialists: one for that, and seeing the glow on the Centre. They run on the last To know more, or to get jewellery, one for clothing and soft faces of owners who have entrusted Saturday morning of January, April, involved as part of the team, furnishing and one for bicycles. the team with something precious July and October, from 10.00 am to contact Diane Lyle. Subsequent events have attracted and treasured when it is returned 12 noon. new volunteers and there is now a to them mended and whole again. front-of-house team as well as an Even the items which aren’t able expanded repair team. This means to be repaired offer a sense of

TEN ELEVEN Ludlow HERITAGE NEWS

ELIZABETH BENNETT: Recollections.

Elizabeth Bennett, a long-standing member of Ludlow Civic Society, died suddenly on 7th January 2020, aged eighty-nine. She contributed greatly to the town as a trustee of the Conservation Trust, a volunteer at St Laurence’s, and as a teacher of art history. I first met Elizabeth many years ago. Long before I came to of this painting, and included it in a book on her father’s work. Ludlow in 2006. When I arrived, she greeted me saying I was now Later it was exhibited at the Towner Art Gallery in Eastbourne, and a Ludlovian. I protested that perhaps I should have been born in Elizabeth was thrilled to attend the opening. Ludlow to qualify for that, but no, she insisted, ‘in my eyes you are A very remarkable coincidence happened one day when I was a Ludlovian.’ How kind and welcoming that was. This is typical of driving Elizabeth somewhere in my car. I had written to Anne Elizabeth’s generosity and hospitality, and a reason for her having Ullmann and had left the letter, ready for posting, on the dashboard made so many friends. of the car. Suddenly there was a shriek of amazement from We met through the Georgian Group which then had a very Elizabeth. ‘I cannot believe this,’ she kept repeating. She recognised active Ludlow-based branch, organised by Julia Ionides. We enjoyed the address in Harborne as the one which had belonged to her many superb visits to Georgian buildings in the Marches and cousins, the house she often visited as a child. You can imagine what beyond. A small group of like-minded people who met regularly, followed: a visit to the Ullmanns for Sunday lunch! Elizabeth made Julia referred to us as her ‘family’. a big hit with Anne, who always asks after her whenever she writes Elizabeth loved art and architectural history, including historic to me. I was so pleased that I was able to send Lizzie greetings from churches. Her knowledge was boundless, and her generosity in Anne at Christmas. sharing it was a joy in knowing her. She was very fond of the artists A passion for art, high intelligence and an incredible memory, Nicholas Poussin and Claude Lorrain who had so inspired the excellent communication skills, a warm and lovable person who English eighteenth-century landscape movement. She was also fond loved contact with people, these qualities all belong to Lizzie. We of English artists of the 1930s and 1940s. The Second World War will all miss her, especially her sons, Martin and Robin and their artist, Eric Ravilious, was a favourite. She introduced me to a friend families. What a wonderful friend she was! She will always have a who owned an early Eric Ravilious painting which was unknown to the art world. I am a friend of Anne Ullmann, Eric Ravilious’s very special place in my heart. daughter, from whom I had borrowed material when curating a Ravilious exhibition in 2004. Anne was delighted by the discovery Gaye Smith

TWELVE www.ludlowcivicsociety.org

TOM CAULCOTT 1927-2019 It was with great sadness that the Committee learnt of the death, just after Christmas, of Tom Caulcott, aged ninety-two, in the Royal Shrewsbury Hospital, where he had once held the post of chairman. He was a long-standing member of the Society, and a committee member under the chairmanship of Stephen Dornan during the 1990s, a real- life dynamic duo. Tom was born in Wolverhampton in 1927. After his somewhat Castle gardens. Tom threw himself into Ludlow’s community and peripapetic childhood, his family finally settled in Birmingham social life. He became involved with many of the town’s institutions, where Tom attended Solihull School. In 1945 he was awarded an and sat on many committees including South Shropshire District exhibition to Emmanuel College, Cambridge, to read history, but Council, Teme Weirs Trust, the Town Centre Residents Association, changed to law for Part II of the Tripos. This was followed by two Friends of St Laurence’s, Ludlow Assembly Rooms and the Civic years of service in the RAF. Society. He made a valuable contribution to the Society, giving up Tom began his career in the Central Land Board and War much time, and bringing a considered approach to any problems Damage Commission, rising through the ranks to become Private the Society faced. During his time on the Civic Society Committee, Secretary to Sir Robert Fraser. After this department was abolished he sat as the Society’s representative on the South Shropshire in 1951, Tom was transferred to the Treasury, where he rose to District Council’s Conservation Advisory Committee. the Chancellor’s Private Office. The small Labour victory of 1964 Tom and Jane had a tremendous love for the arts, ranging from meant that the manifesto pledge of creating a new department for Shakespeare to Elgar, Housman to opera. Indeed, Tom was an Economic Affairs, to balance the Treasury, had become a reality. inaugural member of the Housman Society. Who can forget when George Brown was to be at its helm. Tom’s time with Brown was Tom brought Simon Rattle and the entire City of Birmingham interesting to say the least, with Tom often at the receiving end of Symphony Orchestra to Ludlow in 1996 to play Vaughan Williams’s Brown’s famous temper. After a shaky start, the department settled On Wenlock Edge and George Butterworth’s Shropshire Lad to down, and survived the occasional clashes with the Treasury. The a packed house in St Laurence’s church to commemorate the first six months saw an incomes policy and the publication of a hundredth anniversary of A Shropshire Lad. National Plan. But the stress levels never lessened for Tom, and he Tom is survived by his wife, Jane, a daughter, grand-daughter and eventually asked for the Treasury to take him back. a grandson. A son predeceased him. Back at the Treasury, he moved around several departments. He finally became an under-secretary in the Civil service department Stanton Stephens in the Machinery of Government unit. The 1974 election saw the return of Labour to government and saw him working with George Browns deputy, Tony Crosland, in the Department of the Environment. A move away from central government occurred in 1976 with his appointment as Secretary of the Association of Metropolitan Authorities. In 1982 he was head-hunted by Birmingham City Council to be their Chief Executive. Birmingham, at that time, was a city in decline. Tom convinced the City Fathers to embark on an extensive capital programme. The jewel in the crown was to be the new home for the world-renowned City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra. The new Conservative administration had little time for capital expense on arts projects, so Tom had the idea to create a dual-purpose venue. Thus was born the Birmingham Internatioinal Convention Centre. Tom saw to getting the project financed using European money, and he even invited Jacques Delors, President of the European Union, to lay the foundation stone. The building was opened in 1991 by Her Majesty the Queen. Other improvements to the cultural life of Birmingham instigated by Tom included the enlargement of the stage at the Hippodrome Theatre, grants given to allow Welsh National Opera to visit the city, the move by Sadler’s Wells Ballet to Birmingham, the appointment of Thomas Trotter as organist of the city, and the restoration of Joseph Chamberlain’s house, Highbury. Tom retired in 1988 and moved to Ludlow with his wife, Jane, where they lived in a venerable Georgian house overlooking the

THIRTEEN Ludlow HERITAGE NEWS

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FOURTEEN www.ludlowcivicsociety.org

COMMITTEE NEWS CHAIRMAN’S NOTES The impetus for this edition has been the handing over of the efforts of the Town Walls Trust to the LCS after their sterling work over the last twelve years. From 19th August 2019 we took over some of the aspirations and aims of the Trust, a body dedicated to inform, publicise and assist any owners of the Town Walls in their grants or traditional skills to repair these listed fortifications. The LCS will continue this work as the 1233 Committee, a direct reference to the Collapsed section of town wall below garden of rest. original Charter permitting the ‘enclosure’ of the town. We shall embark on a step by Job Charlton who backed the at the Guildhall. Originally a gift 54 Broad Street to commemorate step survey to ascertain the current wrong horse by entertaining James from Mr Henry David Greene, QC, his brother, Stanley, the best-selling condition and, where possible, II here a year before his monarch Recorder of Ludlow and local MP, Victorian author, as described by ownership, as well as hoping to help fled abroad, Sir Edmund Charlton, it was presented in 1894 at the time Jim Lawley earlier in this issue. in a solution to the problems of local MP, who spent three weeks he acquired both positions. The Finally, it is with sadness that rebuilding the churchyard section in the Fleet Prison for contempt of clock, dated 1751, had formerly we record the stepping down of that collapsed in February 2013. court, John Lechmere who served at hung in Clifford’s Inn Hall, London, Anthony Shuster, our website Elsewhere, we were recently Trafalgar, Captain Reginald James for a hundred and forty years, and maestro, Malcolm Perrett, asked whether Ludford came within Beresford Parkinson JP, bound over was made by the noted clockmaker, committee member, and, especially, our remit of interest. Indeed it for threatening behaviour by his Nathaniel Delender. To date, this Alan Layng, our much-valued does. In addition to a lengthy list fellow magistrates. Yes, plenty here offer has met with little support, and Treasurer, who has done so much to of members from ‘over the water’ to interest us. the LCS may consider sponsoring straighten out our finances and wag who have contribted much over As usual, there are downsides elsewhere. a stern fiscal finger. the years, who could not wish to to report, even trying to stay away The guiding hand behind embrace the Norman church, the from the more depressing aspects Greene’s gesture was Henry Richard Hurlock almshouses, the Old Bell, and, of the Planning System. Before Weyman, Coroner, local historian Chairman of course, the Charlton Arms. Christmas, the Society made an and one-time Mayor. Members Magnificent Ludford House, home offer to the Town Council to repair may recall our ceremony in January to the great and not so good, Sir the clock in the Council Chamber when a blue plaque was erected at

STOP PRESS. STOP PRESS. STOP PRESS. STOP PRESS. Due to the ongoing situation with The Corona Virus the events MEMBERSHIP AND EVENTS detailed in the following section have been postponed.

We are all pleased and grateful in equal measure to our membership this winter, who have shown enthusiasm for renewing their membership. Also, many new members have joined this year for the first time. The year will have much the same format as last year, with a talk in most have read elsewhere, you will also find on the website early editions of the months, but, as you will learn below, the possibility of more trips to Heritage Magazine. interesting places. We are booking speakers for the remainder of 2020, then into 2021, to The Methodist Church continues to host our meetings, where we enjoy include a talk on Charles Darwin and visits to the Flaxmill near Shrewsbury such excellent audiovisual facilities. All members receive information on and Brynkinhault near Wrexham. We have found that excursions to places talks/excursions in their Membership programmes, and other membership of interest have proved very popular. Last year saw a visit to the Barber matters by post. However, we do also update the publicity for events by Institute of Fine arts, combined with Winterbourne House. We shall email to those members who have an email account. Those memebrs who welcome, this year, Nicola Kandinsky, the Director of the Institute, to talk do not have an email account will now be able to receive, if they wish, by about its history. We hope to see you at the monthly talks, and the AGM on post some further communications. May 8th. Members may also like to look at our website (www.ludlowcivicsociety. org) which has a wealth of information about the Society, and, as you will Jane Hunt, Membership and Events Secretary

FIFTEEN www.ludlowcivicsociety.org

If you love Ludlow

1. An increased membership strengthens our Here are six influence in protecting this unique town. good reasons 2. We need your support in our fight against why you should over-development and bad design. 3. We need your ideas on how we can promote join Ludlow improvements for the town. Civic Society 4. You can enjoy our social functions, lectures ✃ and trips. To: The Membership Secretary, Ludlow Civic Society, 5. You will receive our free magazine which 51 Julian Road, Ludlow SY8 1HD comes out normally twice a year. Please accept my/our application to join the society. Annual membership subscription is £13 per person. £24.50 per couple - 6. You choose just how much you do for us. normally due on September 1st. I enclose £ to cover. Cheques payable to ‘Ludlow Civic Society’ please. Please treat all my subscriptions and/or donations to the Ludlow Civic Society until further notice as GIFT AID. I am currently a UK taxpayer. BECOME A MEMBER - JOIN NOW Signed If you care about Ludlow and its surroundings and if you wish to join, please complete the form opposite. Date

Name (Mr/Mrs/Miss/Ms) Ludlow Civic Society

Address 2018 OFFICERS AND COMMITTEE President: Sir Keith Thomas CH Vice-Presidents: Dr Martin Speight, Philip Dunne MP Chairman: Richard Hurlock Vice-Chairman: Tony Mahalski Postcode Hon. Secretary: Juliet Diamond Committee Members: Chloe Alexander, Ian Bott, John Cartwright, Email Jane Hunt, Malcolm Perrett, Gaye Smith, David Stenning, Stanton Stephens, Valerie Thomas, Roy Thwaites. Responses to articles are always welcome. Please address your letters to: The Editor, Heritage News, 5 Castle Street, Ludlow SY8 1AS

SIXTEEN