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Falling in love with Angelina Phil Hawkes discovers Italy’s true beauty along the Amalfi Coast

“BEAUTY is truth, truth beauty” wrote English poet John Keats. Although inspired by figures on a Greek vase, Keats might just as well have used this phrase to describe the true beauty of autumn in Italy’s Amalfi Coast, where rugged coastal landscape blends with sea and sky to create an indelible impression. Even the most sophisticated camera cannot capture the essence of this experience, just Above: Balcony beauty at Casa Angelina on Italy’s Amalfi Coast. as words fall short and Right: Amalfi magic – the hotel is in the middle of the photo.. regrettably, clichés are unavoidable. for a busier vibe and nightlife; Angelina, one of the Small Even the most We hit the autostrada south and Ravello for its uber-cool Luxury Hotels of the World, sophisticated from Naples, turning off to the craft shops, the 13th-century perched on a steep cliff camera cannot Sorrento Peninsula and then … Villa Rufolo and the Cathedral overlooking the capture the essence presto … the jagged edges of the of the same period. Mediterranean. of this experience, Amalfi Coast unravel before us. Ravello is one of the most This place is sheer It’s a daunting prospect as famous (and touristy) mountain perfection. Balconies look out just as words fall we scope the narrow serpentine towns in Italy, with good reason. over the blue sea and the paler short and route high above the cliffs. We decide that none of these blue sky, creating the effect of regrettably, clichés Sheer drops, Vespas buzzing like places meets our requirement merging seamlessly into our all- are unavoidable bees around the blind corners for a relaxing few days in a white room. and large tour coaches quieter location and so we It’s almost surreal, and Mediterranean. Even in where subtle music, lighting lumbering like elephants. return to the village of Praiano brings back memories of the October, the water is buoyant and the scents of lemon and Added to that, the fearless near Positano. movie The Truman Show in and refreshing. Later, we try the sandalwood combine to create derring-do of irascible Italian It has a more “authentic” which life turns out to be a giant hotel’s lap pool which is kept a “different vision of luxury” as drivers. It’s all fun, as long as you Italian feel to it, and some really movie set. slightly warmer. the owner puts it. don’t suffer from high blood good restaurants such as La In the morning, we drag Casa Angelina is also a It’s topped off by a fine pressure. Brace, whose pizzas are ourselves away from the view to showcase for modern art terrace restaurant where After passing Sorrento there legendary. There’s also a try the buffet breakfast to end collected by the owner, Signor contemporary Italian cuisine is are three main towns awaiting bar/cafe where the locals all buffets … we ranked this as Cappiello, who bought this a happy marriage. our pleasure (and our survival) congregate in the evening and our No. 1 choice in the whole of property in poor condition and The Amalfi Coast is one of Positano and Amalfi on the will happily practise their Italy, and that’s saying spent a fortune on creating this Italy’s great treasures and in coast, and Ravello high up on English with you as you sip a something. monument to good taste, Italian truth, we couldn’t have found the mountainside. Campari or a Peroni. Of course, Suitably recharged, we take style and a sense of humour more beauty anywhere than in They all have loads of charm they all have relatives in the hotel’s elevator carved seen in the glass sculptures by the village of Praiano and the but are different: Positano for Australia. through the rocks to the private Mexican artist Sosabravo. Casa Angelina. If only Keats trendy boutiques and trattorias Thus begin several days of pebble beach below and enjoy a The pervasive atmosphere is were alive today, to discover this On the streets of Praiano. specialising in seafood; Amalfi magic. We’ve chosen Casa lazy swim in the one of complete relaxation place himself. Picture: Nicole Tujague

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