The New Campania Campania Is Italy’S Most Exciting Wine Region, Says Tom Maresca
The new Campania Campania is Italy’s most exciting wine region, says Tom Maresca. An ambitious new generation is heading south to work the land that their parents and grandparents fled, with outstanding results
It may seem paradoxical to call Campania, with ‘A handful of 2,500 years of wine history, a ‘developing’ wine region. But despite its ancient traditions, the rediscovered presence of pioneers of the modern rebirth of Italian wine and the fact that its Taurasi stands and rescued among the finest red wines of Italy, Campania is in the throes of an exciting expansion and varieties are development. Much of this turns on the revival of several ancient and nearly lost varieties. exciting This spring I attended Campania Stories: I Vini Rossi, a week-long event held in Naples and growers with Avellino. I tasted nearly 200 red wines from every corner of Campania: Avellino, Benevento, Caserta, their potential’ Napoli and Salerno. I met with producers, some old hands or scions of well-known wine families, but many young and enthusiastic, filled with energy and optimism about their land and their wines. I was Cuomo, the premier producer of the area. Beyond particularly for its magical tannins,’ says Giovanni impressed by the respect shown for the region’s that, more and more producers are working with Ascione, owner of award-winning Nanni Copè. great past and the will to renew that vinous legacy. Piedirosso as a single varietal. After centuries in the ‘Those are abundant, but very silky. Pallagrello Nero shadow of Aglianico, whose asperities it can soften, can show beautiful red fruits on the nose and Piedirosso: a revival Piedirosso is showing new dimensions as better palate. It has a terrific capacity to read soil, yielding Taurasi remains at the peak of Campania’s red field work and clonal selection show it to be capable minerality and very fine spicy sensations. It can be wines, but there are many other Aglianico-based of complexity and longevity on its own. Some pure elegance.’ wines in production, from almost every province of marked successes emanate from the Campi Flegrei Pallagrello Nero and Casavecchia are being actively the region. Most notably, Benevento just received sub-zone near Naples. Gilda Martusciello, owner of propagated from a cluster of surviving pre-phylloxera DOCG staus – only Campania’s second red DOCG Grotta del Sole, says Piedirosso ‘has been known vines, originally rescued by Manuela Piancastelli – for its Aglianico del Taburno. Many provinces here since Roman times. It is still grown today on its and Peppe Mancini, the proprietors of Terre del blend Aglianico with Piedirosso, another variety own rootstocks, because of our sandy, mineral soils.’ Principe, now one of the most important producers cultivated here since antiquity. Beyond Piedirosso, other rediscovered and of these grapes. Discoveries like these have opened a The most famous blend is Falerno Rosso from the Above: vines overlooking rescued varieties are exciting growers and wine vast field of unknowns in the region’s viticulture. province of Caserta. The name deliberately recalls the scenic valley around lovers alike with their potential. Casavecchia, Many pre-phylloxera vines remain scattered the prized falernum of the Romans from the days Ravello, on Campania’s Pallagrello Nero, Tintore, Sciascinoso and Olivella throughout Campania, with who knows how many when Campania the Blessed was the Côte d’Or of the Amalfi Coast. Right: – ancient varieties that were barely clinging to life forgotten varieties still awaiting revival. Roman Empire. Also fine are village-named Donnachira, a family- two decades ago – are now yielding delicious and The five provinces of Campania have their own Piedirosso blends from the Amalfi coast – notably, owned estate, is best probably very long-lived wines. All have their specialities, though Aglianico is grown in them all.
Photogrpah:Scicluna/AWLKen Images/Getty Images Ravello (basic and riserva) and Furore from Marisa known for its white wines devotees. ‘Pallagrello Nero is a very noble variety, It dominates in Avellino, where the Taurasi ➢
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Left: top-quality ‘Terroni is the dismissive term Taurasi is made at Cantine Lonardi for southern Italians. But many from Aglianico grapes young, well-educated and Below: Terre del Principe’s Peppe ambitious southerners are Mancini and Manuela turning terroni into Piancastelli cultivate three a badge of pride’ varities they saved from extinction Map:Maggie Nelson
Campania: know your vintages
2013 Late spring and early summer Casavecchia, the ‘hot weather Left and above: Marisa Cuomo cultivates small terraced were cool and rainy; the weather was necessitated early picking to preserve vineyards on precipitous slopes along the Amalfi coast more normal from mid-July into acidity’ (Giovanni Ascione). September. There was almost two months’ difference between the 2010 An uneven growing season earliest harvested grapes and the with wild temperature differentials DOCG is located, and is vital in Benevento and marine sediments from when large parts of the latest, resulting in a great diversity in somehow resulted in a fine harvest, Caserta, where Piedirosso is also growing in stature. region were sea bottom, moraines from ancient Maresca’s dozen wineries to watch wine quality: the best examples will be especially for the late-ripening Villa Matilde’s Cecubo, for instance, uses a glaciers, and deposits from modern landslides and magnificent and long-lived, the worst Aglianico. Falerno did well, and predominance of Piedirosso, blended with even river floods. Many of Campania’s present vinous Many wine drinkers are familiar with a few fine producers from Campania, mostly delightful for immediate drinking. Pallagrello Nero and Casavecchia lesser-known local varieties, to produce a blessings originated in natural disasters in this still largish firms famous for Taurasi – Mastroberardino, Terredora, Feudi di San producers consider the vintage an harmonious, modestly complex dinner wine. geologically active land. Gregorio. Or they may know Villa Matilde for Falerno Rosso, or a handful of 2012 From mid-June until end of excellent one. All see their wines as The sub-zones of Naples exploit Piedirosso’s For me, Campania is now the most exciting wine one-off wines such as Terra del Lavoro or Montevetrano. Here is a list of lesser- August it was scorching. September having long ageing potential: 20 years fondness for volcanic soils. They make both region of Italy. Terroni (literally, people of the earth; known wines and estates of the moment that are already garnering awards and was cooler, but warm days (with good is a cautious estimate. monovarietal Piedirosso and blends with any effectively, dirt people) is the dismissive term for attention in Italy and will soon be making an impact on the international market. night-time cooling) continued into number of other local grapes to produce medium- southern Italians, who are still the butt of northern October. At harvest, quantities were 2009 Rainfall during harvest bodied, strongly mineral-inflected wines in every prejudice. But many young, well-educated and Cantine Lonardi Cantine Lonardi, Taurasi Vigne d’Alto down, but quality seemed good. created problems. The best Taurasis are style, from everyday quaffers to serious dinner ambitious southerners are turning terroni into a (aka Contrade di Taurasi) 2009 18 (93) ‘very fresh’ (Piero Mastroberardino), wines, largely with either Campi Flegrei or Lacrima badge of pride, as they return to work the land their Alessandro Lonardi is a small grower POA Les Caves de Pyrène 2011 For Taurasi, it was ‘dry and ‘approachable but no less interesting Christi del Vesuvio geographic appellations. parents and grandparents fled. They’re not going (4-5ha) and producer of top-quality Similar to the Coste, with vigorous dry warm, giving wines with nice than 2008 or 2010’ (Antonio Capaldo Salerno’s Costa d’Amalfi uses an even more back as sharecroppers chained to subsistence, but Taurasi. He uses only his own grapes, fruit and spice throughout. Drink concentration, structure and power’ of Feudi di San Gregorio) and ‘slender, miscellaneous collection of varieties to produce as skilled professionals and sophisticated which he ferments with wild yeasts, 2015-2025 Alc 14.5% (Piero Mastroberardino); ‘Tasted in with good aromas, drinkable now, with wines that vary from the lightest pizza reds to entrepreneurs, determined to revive the glories of because he believes that barrel, the wine shows the same an ageing potential of 10 years’ impressively complex bottles. Marisa Cuomo, for Campanian viticulture by growing the great selected yeasts produce too Cantine di Marzo characteristics as 2010, so we keep our (Angelo Valentino, winemaker at instance, makes fine examples of the whole range. traditional grape varieties and vinifying them with standardised a wine. The di Somma family (niece and fingers crossed’ (Antonio Capaldo); Donnachiara). For Pallagrello Nero and care and respect. To see their enthusiasm is to nephew of the di Marzos) took over this and ‘Full-bodied wines, a little bit hard, Casavecchia, it was a wet, difficult Natural influences realise the profound change that is overtaking Italy. Cantine Lonardi, Taurasi ancient but moribund estate in 2009 that need more time to become ready, harvest, necessitating great selectivity. What makes Campania special as wine country is a That is exciting for any Italophile. To taste the Coste 2009 18/20 (93/100) and have been rapidly revitalising it. but with great ageing potential – 30 But the Falerno zone achieved package of ecological and environmental factors – a wines these young people are making is doubly POA Les Caves de Pyrène Associated with Greco di Tufo since the years!’ (Angelo Valentino). For Falerno, ‘excellent ripeness, with fresh red berry mild-to-warm climate; the benign influence of the exciting for a vinophile. D Black cherry and berry 17th century, it has expanded into marked temperature differentials gave fruit, sweet and soft on the palate, a Mediterranean; ranges of hills and mountains that aroma. Spicy berry palate. significant Aglianico production on wonderfully aromatic wines, needing wine that promises longevity’ (Giorgio provide a variety of microclimates, altitudes and US-based writer Tom Maresca is an Italian wine Long, dry, fruit finish. Drink selected plots of its 28ha estate, with time to soften. For Pallagrello and Imparato, winemaker at Villa Matilde). exposures; and myriad soils mixing decayed volcanic specialist. Read his wine blog at http://ubriaco. 2015-2025 Alcohol 14.5% outstanding results. ➢ deposits with more recent volcanic ash and tufa, wordpress.com
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Maresca’s dozen wineries to watch (continued)
Cantine di Marzo, Linea Cantine Storiche, the vineyards are devoted to Aglianico, with Nanni Copè, Sabbie di Sopra, Il Bosco Terre Irpinia Aglianico 2012 18 (93) a small amount of Piedirosso. del Volturno Rosso 2012 17.5 (91) £14.50 Bat & Bottle, Rutland Vintners £36.99 (2011) AG Wines Tarry nose. On the palate, there are black Terra di Rivolta, Aglianico del Taburno Dried figs and earth on the nose. Soft berries and cherries, tar and tobacco, with a Riserva 2008 18 (93) berryish fruit over tar and tobacco; elegant. juicy finish. Drink 2014-2025 Alc 14% N/A UK www.fattorialarivolta.com Drink 2015-2030 Alc 13.7% Spicy, earthy and plummy. Fine acid and Donnachira softening tannins. Drink 2016-2030 Alc 14% Terre del Principe A family-owned firm working 27ha of vines, In Caserta, Peppe Mancini and Manuela principally in the three Irpinia DOCGs: Fiano, Luigi Tecce Piancastelli cultivate 11ha of Pallagrello Nero, Greco di Tufo and Taurasi. Best-known for Luigi Tecce’s 4-5ha of old Aglianico vines sit Casavecchia and Pallagrello Bianco that they white wines, it makes steadily high (about 500m) on prime sites in the saved from extinction. improving Taurasi. Taurasi zone. He describes himself as a ‘less than minimalist’ winemaker. Terre del Principe, Centomoggia Terre del Donnachiara, Taurasi 2009 Volturno Casavecchia 2005 18 (93) 18 (93) Luigi Tecce, Satyricon, Campi Taurasini, POA Fine & Rare POA Enologia Irpinia 2011 18 (93) Deep, dark fruit nose; polished, balanced Black pepper, espresso and dried £21.95 Berry Bros & Rudd palate with mineral inflections; long cherries on nose and palate. Fine, Classic Aglianico flavours and tobaccco/berry finish. Complex and leathery fruit finish. Drink textures: a lovely wine. Drink interesting. Drink 2014-2025. Alc 13.7% 2015-2025 Alc 13.5% 2015-2030 Alc 15% Terre del Principe, Centomoggia Terre del Grotta del Sole Luigi Tecce, Poliphemo Taurasi Volturno Casavecchia 2009 17.5 (91) The Martusciello family owns 13ha of vines 2010 18 (93) N/A UK www.terredelprincipe.com and leases six more in the Campo Flegrei £42 Berry Bros & Rudd All dark fruit and leather, slightly rustic and zone. The bulk of its production is of mineral- Deep and elegant, from its earthy still young. Drink 2015-2030 Alc 13.5% inflected white wines, but it also produces nose through to the black fruit impressive Piedirosso, in particular its palate. Drink 2015-2030 Alc 14.3% Trabucco Riserva Montegauro. A small, family-owned property (2.5ha) in Marisa Cuomo the Falerno sub-zone of Caserta province. Its Grotta del Sole, Montegauro Piedirosso The premier estate of the Costa d’Amalfi vineyards sit on sandy soils that are dei Campi Flegrei Riserva 2009 17.5 (91) sub-zone of Salerno province, Marisa Cuomo interlaced with volcanic materials and tufa, POA Continental Wine and husband Andrea Ferraioli cultivate which yield beautifully structured wines. Complex earth and dried fruit aromas. With postcard-sized, terraced vineyards on the soft black fruits, tar and tobacco, this is hillsides. More than half the production Trabucco, Rapicano Falerno del Massico complex with an interesting palate, and a consists of white wines. Aglianico and Rosso 2011 17 (90) long, gentle finish. Drink 2014-2021 Alc 13.5% Piedirosso are the principal red varieties. N/A UK www.trabucconicola.it Round red fruits on palate, with mineral and I Capitani Marisa Cuomo, Furore Rosso, Costa leather notes; complex and balanced. Drink The Cefalo family’s 12ha of vines are in the d’Amalfi Riserva 2008 17 (90) 2015-2025 Alc 14% Taurasi zone. Some white wine is produced, POA Annessa Imports but Aglianico lies at the heart of its efforts. Dark fruit with nice acidity and an elegant Villa Raiano medium body. Drink 2014-2020 Alc 13.5% A 23ha vineyard in the heart of the Taurasi i Capitani, Bosco Faiano Taurasi 2007 18 (93) sub-zone. The wines have jumped in quality N/A UK www.icapitani.com Nanni Copè in the past five or so years. The firm makes Black cherry and spice vanilla nose. Black This tiny Pallagrello estate is owner Giovanni all the specialities – red and white – of Irpinia. fruit and spice palate, with long Ascione’s grand passion, and his wine has finish. Drink 2014-2025 Alc 13.5% won top honours almost every year it has Villa Raiano, Campania Aglianico 2012 been made. Each vine is recorded on a 17 (90) i Capitani, Emè Irpinia Rosso spreadsheet and tracked meticulously at POA Prestige Food & Wine 2009 17.5 (91) every stage. Blackberry and earth nose and palate; well N/A UK www.icapitani.com structured. Long tobacco finish. Drink Berries and a thin veil of new Nanni Copè, Sabbie di Sopra, Il 2014-2022 Alc 13.5% wood. Well structured with an Bosco Terre del Volturno Rosso intense finish. Drink 2015-2025 2010 18 (93) Villa Raiano, Taurasi 2010 18 (93) Alc 14.35% £37 Corks of Cotham, Field & Fawcett N/A UK www.villaraiano.com Black berry and mineral nose; Spice and cherry aroma, black pepper, fruit La Rivolta berry and fig and leather on and leather finish. Needs a little time. Drink A sizeable (29ha), privately owned estate in palate. Soft tannins, excellent 2015-2025 Alc 13.5% the province of Benevento, growing both acidity, balanced and elegant. white and red grapes. A little less than half Drink 2014-2025 Alc 13.5% For full details of UK stockists, see p88
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