BUYINGGUIDE JULY 2014

Grapevines and lavender in Provence MARC LOBJOY/ALAMY MARC

IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE 2 PROVENCE 36 OTHER EUROPE 48 CALIFORNIA 19 ALSACE 36 ISRAEL 60 WASHINGTON 21 SPAIN 37 LEBANON 69 VIRGINIA 28 SOUTHERN ITALY 37 TURKEY 71 NEW YORK 32 SICILY & SARDINIA 38 SOUTH AFRICA 78 OTHER NORTH AMERICA 34 SLOVENIA 41 NEW ZEALAND 80 SPIRITS 35 CROATIA 44 ARGENTINA 82 BEER

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Château Vignelaure 2013 La Source Rosé (Co- 91 teaux d’Aix-en-Provence). For full review see page 12. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $15

PROVENCE Château de Calavon 2013 Rosé (Coteaux Time to think pink. 90 d’Aix-en-Provence). A rich wine, it adds a finely textured dimension to the red fruitiness and fresh acidity. With complex fruits, structure as well t’s been a great year for Provence rosé. The tant with Provence rosé, it’s the look as well. as the attractive crispness, it’s a dry wine, best producers in the sunny south of France Surprisingly versatile, these rosés can be drunk with food. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. want us all to know that, just in case the bad drunk as an apéritif (and there are plenty with abv: 12.5% Price: $25 stories coming out of Bordeaux about 2013 only 12.5% alcohol) or they can go with an im- Iare spoiling the party. pressive array of food. The French believe that Domaine de Valdition 2013 Vallon des Anges Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). And Provence rosé is the party drink for a rosé can go with any food, but in fact they are 90 The wine comes from the Alpilles mountains, made summer. It’s become the go-to rosé wine, with best with seafood—like lobster and fish—pork famous by Van Gogh’s paintings. It has a tight, sales in the U.S. rocketing. In or chicken. steely character that comes from the wild terroir fact, outside France, we are the For your summer pleasure, while keeping delicious freshness and acidity. It number one consumer of these Provence rosé is I did a comprehensive tasting could age until late 2014. Roche-Mère Wine Selec- tions. Best Buy. —R.V. lightly colored, so fresh and of the latest Provence rosé re- the party drink for abv: 13.5% Price: $15 fruity, bone-dry rosés. Many summer. It’s leases for this month’s Buying people buy rosés based on their become the go- Guide, the majority from 2013, Commanderie de la Bargemone 2013 Rosé color, and these wines, with with more than 30 selections 89 (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). This wine has their pale salmon hue, are unde- to rosé wine, with that earned 90 points or more. the lightest of rosé colors, so fresh and light and fruity. With crisp acidity, raspberry and red cur- niably attractive. Although Provence takes sales in the U.S. rants, it just dances on the palate. Hand Picked Se- There are more selections rocketing. center stage in this issue’s Buy- lections. —R.V. available in the U.S. than ever ing Guide, we also review plenty abv: 12.5% Price: $19 before. Producers are making of other selections that are per- special cuvées for their importers, or making fect for summer, like stunning Southern Ital- Gassier 2013 Château Beaulieu Rosé (Co- teaux d’Aix-en-Provence). From the large second wines, or launching prestige cuvées, and ian whites and New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, 88 Beaulieu estate near Aix-en-Provence, this wine they are even bottling them in a wide array of among others. And, as always, be sure to check shows great fruitiness as well as a mineral texture bottles. There are square bottles (think gin bot- out our complete database, with thousands and good depth. Ripe raspberry and red currant tles), fat and round bottles, bottles shaped like more reviews, at buyingguide.winemag.com. fruits are laced with acidity. It’s very much a food amphoras, even a few classic Provence skittle Cheers! rosé. Opici Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 bottles. So it’s not just the taste that’s impor- —Roger Voss Domaine d’Eole 2013 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en- 87 Provence). Strong caramel aromas lead to a wine that is rich, vanilla-flavored with some attrac- tive ripe strawberry flavors. It’s soft and full in the The wine needs food to be at its best. Winebow. mouth, revealing its acidity only at the end. Vinergie ROSÉS —R.V. Vins de France. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 BANDOL Ravoire et Fils 2013 Le Pont Rosé (Bandol). Les Quatre Tours 2013 Classique Rosé (Co­ Domaines Ott 2013 Château Romassan Rosé 84 The wine is aromatic and fresh, although its 87 teaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Properly light 92 (Bandol). The palest of rosés is also a seri- herbal character doesn’t quite fit with the rest of in color, this is crisp, fruity and deliciously fresh. ous wine. It has a firm and mineral character that this crisp and fruity wine. It may improve, but at Some weight comes from ripe strawberry fruits as goes along with ripe red fruits and a tight texture. the moment it is not balanced or together. Saranty well as touches of vanilla. The acidity at the end It needs to age for a few months and is really meant Imports. —R.V. brings refreshment. VOS Selections. —R.V. to go with food. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $16 —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45 Château Pigoudet 2013 Pigoudet Première COTEAUX D’AIX-EN-PROVENCE 86 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). A ripe Les Vignobles Gueissard 2013 Cuvée G Rosé and rounded wine, it has rich red currants and ber- 90 (Bandol). A crisp, very textured wine that Château Vignelaure 2013 Rosé (Coteaux ries. It conveys some weight and a full-bodied feel has red fruits and a salty edge from the closeness of 92 d’Aix-en-Provence). For full review see page that is balanced by the fresh acidity. Very clean and the vines to the sea. It has a mineral texture, grape- 6. Editors’ Choice. fruit and raspberry flavors, intense and bone dry. abv: 13% Price: $23

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2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. ­Iijima, Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen, Contributing Taster Andrew Hoover and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; ­European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Cali- fornia Editor Steve Heimoff and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone Mark Ryan 2011 Lonely Heart Cabernet Sau- Mark Ryan 2011 Wild Eyed Syrah (Red Moun- in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean ­Sullivan in Washington. 96 vignon (Red Mountain). This bottling is 95 tain). Force Majeure and Ciel du Cheval are If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini- quintessential Red Mountain in style, with potent the sources for this pure, compelling Red Mountain tials appear following the note. When no initials appear follow- aromatics of concentrated black fruits, gun metal Syrah. The complex aromatics shoot up a smor- ing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more review- ers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. and rock. Sourced from Ciel du Cheval, Obelisco, gasbord of cured meat, truffle and umami notes, Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are by Kara Newman Force Majeure and Klipsun, it’s a one-wine show- leading into a crisp, racy palate with lovely blue- and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. case for the AVA. The spectrum of fruit flavors is berry-dominated fruit flavors. Aging in 500-liter Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the impressive, compact and deep, and despite the high puncheons smoothes it out while contributing just submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot alcohol it retains its precision and detail. Cellar Se- a hint of new toast. Cellar Selection. —P.G. be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for lection. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $48 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. abv: 15.1% Price: $85 TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind un- less otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustom- ary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; Oakville East 2010 Core Stone (Oakville). often good value. Coomber Family Ranch 2010 Private Reserve Based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- 95 critical circumstances. 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). There’s Franc, this shows hard tannins and dryness despite good structure to this Cabernet, thanks to the firm the intensely ripe blackberries and cherries at its Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80 points) are not reviewed. tannins and ample acidity. But the flavors take the core. Two-thirds new French oak is not too much, starring role, with raspberries, cherries, currants, adding balancing toast and wood tannins. This gor- SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent qual- mocha and cedar. It has a light, delicate mouthfeel, geous wine will begin to come into its own by 2018, ity at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price although there’s nothing light about the taste. It’s and should evolve for many more years. Cellar Se- with unique qualities that merit special attention. complex and ageable, so give it until 2020 to begin . —S.H. Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible lection and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to to come around. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $125 reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation abv: 14.1% Price: $126 does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated. Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are gener- ally priced at $15 or less. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing lo- cation as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/ contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast. net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may JM Cellars 2011 Klipsun Vineyard Merlot (Red Teso La Monja 2011 Alabaster (Toro). Smoky be downloaded from our Web site. 95 Mountain). This is the winery’s first single- 95 berry, lemon peel, graphite and huge black- LABELS vineyard Merlot. Polished and dense, its aromatics fruit aromas provide a stellar opening. Raw tannins Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given are a multidimensional mix of cassis, espresso, ca- and staunchness create a powerful palate that needs the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information cao and tobacco. Firm and full, the flavors continue time to mellow out. Flavors of loud oak, black fruits, on label ­purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax along the same lines, going deep into a thoroughly hard spices, toast and licorice finish peppery, tough 866.896.8786; or email [email protected]. satisfying finish.Cellar Selection. —P.G. and with some heat. Best from 2015–2023. Jorge Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at abv: 14.2% Price: $42 Ordoñez Selections. Cellar Selection. —M.S. buyingguide.winemag.com abv: 14.5% Price: $220

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Williams Selyem 2012 Olivet Lane Vineyard Figgins 2011 Estate Red Wine (Walla Walla Mark Ryan 2011 Dead Horse Cabernet Sauvig­ 95 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Dry, tart 94 Valley). Sourced entirely from the estate 94 non (Red Mountain). Cabernet Sauvignon-­ and balanced, it has keen acidity highlighting com- vineyard, this is two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon dominated, this also includes smaller amounts of plex flavors of pomegranates, persimmons, cherries and one-third Merlot, with just a splash of Petit Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Polished and sandalwood, with the earthy, plummy sweet- Verdot. Fat, juicy, toasty and deliciously flavorful, and dense, it offers pure, concentrated cassis fruit, ness of mu shu sauce. This wine gets better and bet- it opens quickly into a plush midpalate, with pome- framed by dark flavors of coffee and licorice. Give ter as it breathes in the glass. It’s hard to keep from granate and raspberry fruit dominant. Streaks of this one plenty of breathing time, as it’s a high-­ opening it now, but it will benefit from aging; best caramel and nougat thread through the generous octane powerhouse that needs some unpacking. after 2018.Cellar Selection. —S.H. finish. Enjoy right now. —P.G. Cellar until 2017, and possibly beyond. Cellar abv: 14.2% Price: $75 abv: 14.1% Price: $85 Selection. —P.G. abv: 15.1% Price: $52

Alto Moncayo 2011 Garnacha (Campo de 94 Borja). Fans of full-bodied, dark-fruited JM Cellars 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Val- Williams Selyem 2012 Olivet Lane Vineyard reds will swoon over this modern-style Garnacha 94 ley). A number of different fermentation 94 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). It’s easy from old vineyards in Aragón. Pitch black, the nose regimens puts these grapes through their paces, for a California Chardonnay to be rich, but few can provides a pure blast of blackberry and cassis, and and leads to skillful blending. The result is a wine rise to the level of balanced complexity as this gor- the palate is chewy yet fresh, with baked black-fruit of exceptional complexity, depth and texture. Lively geous bottling. The wine is enormous in apricot, flavors as well as coffee, chocolate and vanilla. A citrus, Meyer lemon, tangerine, peach and caramel orange, nectarine, pear and Meyer lemon fruit, with smooth, lush, layered finish with vanilla and tof- flavors abound.Editors’ Choice. —P.G. the vanilla and buttered toast of French oak. The fee notes is the final act. Drink through 2017. Jorge abv: 14.1% Price: $35 acidity is just about perfect. —S.H. Ordoñez Selections. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $55 abv: 16% Price: $44

Leonetti Cellar 2012 Merlot (Walla Walla 94 Valley). Leonetti’s Merlot is the only wine Williams Selyem 2012 Papera Vineyard Corley Reserve 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon among their four annual releases to debut a year 94 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Williams 94 (Napa Valley). Blended with a drop of Mer- early. It’s a good thing with this wine, which is Selyem’s track record with this bottling is excellent. lot, this Cabernet Sauvignon remains deeply tannic smooth and packed with rich black-cherry and cas- While this 2012 has notes of raisins, they’re more of and dry. It has classic flavors of black currants, an- sis fruit flavors. Also in the blend are small amounts a seasoning than the main ingredient. It’s a robust, ise liqueur and minerals, with quite a bit of acidity. of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Pe- lusty wine, filled with blackberries, dark chocolate, It’s complex, compelling and still far too young. Give tit Verdot. The tannins are slightly granular, and anise and pepper, yet balanced. It will age through it until 2018 to begin to come around, and it will be soaked with cocoa flavor, giving it a pleasingly dark, 2024. —S.H. gorgeous in the mid-2020s. Cellar Selection. —S.H. toasty edge. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 14.7% Price: $55 abv: 14.2% Price: $80 abv: 14.5% Price: $75

4 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 Williams Selyem 2012 Westside Road Neigh- Seven Hills 2011 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red Williams Selyem 2012 Heintz Vineyard Char- 94 bors Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The 93 Wine (Red Mountain). This Bordeaux-style, 93 donnay (Russian River Valley). This is a clas- wine is always a blend of the winery’s best vine- single-vineyard blend outshines others from the sic Russian River and Williams Selyem Chardonnay, yards in the northern, warm section of the valley, same iconic Red Mountain site that cost signifi- so bright in acidity and rich in fruit, you hardly including Allen, Rochioli Riverblock and Williams cantly more. Packed with concentrated cherry and notice the oak. Papayas, tangerines, peaches, pears, Selyem’s Estate. The 2012 is dry, tannic, delicately cassis, it’s layered with well-integrated earth, rock, Meyer lemons and minerals mingle perfectly with structured and mouthwateringly tart, with cran- leaf and stem flavors, and finished with a hint of vanilla, buttered toast and acidity, producing a wine berry, raspberry, cherry, sandalwood and dried herb toast from 21 months in 40% new French oak. Cel- of elegance and creamy flair. Drink it now, but not flavors. Enjoy it now and through 2018. —S.H. lar Selection. —P.G. too cold. —S.H. abv: 13.8% Price: $69 abv: 14.1% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $55

Krupp Brothers 2011 The Doctor (Napa Val- Tabor 2010 Adama Merlot (Galilee). With its Williams Selyem 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 93 ley). A superb tannic-acid structure is allied 93 deep garnet color and aromas of black­berry, 93 County). This is the best value of the win- with complex black currant, grilled meat bone and black cherry and coffee, this wine signals early on ery’s spring lineup of seven 2012 Pinot Noirs. It’s smoky oak flavors that finish dry, long and spicy. The that you are in for something special. Flavors of dry, delicate, modest in alcohol, tart and complex. cépage is Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo, Syrah, black cherry, blueberry, anise and caramel play Waves of raspberries and cherries, mushrooms, red Petit Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc, making it across the palate amidst fine tannins, right through currants, Dr. Pepper cola and exotic spices wash one of the most compelling blends available today the bright orange-peel finish. Kosher. Royal Wine across the palate, delicious and flashy. It’s ready to from Napa Valley. Give it until 2017–2018 in the Corporation. Editors’ Choice. —M.D. drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. cellar to begin to mellow. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $16 abv: 13.7% Price: $39 abv: 14.5% Price: $90

Red Tail Ridge 2012 Sticky Riesling (Finger Alto Moncayo 2011 Veraton Garnacha (Cam- 93 Lakes). Despite a growing number of qual- Treasure 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa 92 po de Borja). This full-bodied, ripe wine ity sweet-style Rieslings from the Finger Lakes, this 93 Valley). Rich, complex black currant, dark offers blackberry and spiced plum aromas on top of one stands out amongst its peers. It’s gorgeously chocolate, mineral and oak flavors mark this bone a minerally base. In the mouth, it’s big but fresh and complex, with layers of pollen and saffron accent- dry, extremely tannic young Cabernet. It possesses free-flowing. Flavors of black plum and black cherry ing deep, concentrated flavors of mango, orange and a firm structure and mouthfeel, so give it until 2020 are lively despite some creamy oak that rises on the peach. Searing lemon acidity drives the midpalate to begin to come around. Cellar Selection. —S.H. finish. Drink through 2016. Jorge Ordoñez Selec- towards a long finish that’s peppered with dusty abv: 14.5% Price: $99 tions. —M.S. mineral notes. Delicious now, but bound to be ir- abv: 15.5% Price: $27 resistible from 2021–2024. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 8.8% Price: $50/375 ml

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Brian Carter Cellars 2009 Solesce Red Wine Château Vignelaure 2013 Rosé (Coteaux Jules Taylor 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- 92 (Columbia Valley). Five Bordeaux grape 92 d’Aix-en-Provence). This is a rich, smooth, 92 borough). A ripe, lush style of Marlborough varieties are included in this blend; the major- vanilla-flavored wine that is impressively ripe while Sauvignon Blanc, this features ample nectarine and ity (55%) is Cabernet Sauvignon. Released at five keeping all its freshness. It has a sense of concentra- cassis fruit, tinged with just a bit of green leafiness. years of age, it is drinking quite well, though not yet tion, with ripe strawberry and red cherry fruits and Ample weight on the mouth gives way to a long, fully mature. The bottle time has served to round enough structure to allow it to age. Drink from 2015. mouthwatering finish. Winemaker Jules Taylor is on off the tannins, which frame a dense, well-defined Blue Coast International. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. a roll. Maritime Wine Trading Collective. Editors’ core of cassis, coffee grounds and minerals.Cellar abv: 13% Price: $23 Choice. —J.C. Selection. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 14.3% Price: $50

EnRoute 2012 Les Pommiers Pinot Noir (Rus- Marco Abella 2008 Mas Mallola (Priorat). 92 sian River Valley). The wine is a blend of 92 Dry, schisty aromas of cherry and spice are Château d’Esclans 2012 Garrus Rosé (Côtes several vineyards in the Green Valley. It shows its reserved and elevated. This is a bright wine with 92 de Provence). This full-bodied wine pushes cool origins in the brisk acidity and tannins, and juicy acidity and complexity. Flavors of baked berry the concept of rosé to its limits. Wood-aged and the overall delicacy, so balanced and refined in the fruits are minerally at the core, while the finish is rich, it conveys a sense of structure, mature fruit mouth. Bone dry and zesty, it conveys intricate fla- smooth, mature and steady, with lasting purity. and delicious toastiness. It has already been aged vors of cranberries, cola, persimmons and red cher- Drink through 2019. Terlato Wines International. an extra year, but would benefit from cellaring even ries. It’s beautiful now, and should develop well —M.S. longer, so wait until 2015. Shaw-Ross International through at least 2020. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Importers. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14% Price: $100

Mascota 2009 Unánime Gran Vino Tinto 92 (Mendoza). With robust aromas of cola, cof- Feudi di San Gregorio 2012 Pietracalda fee, dry leaves and blackberry, this lusty blend of Château Sainte Marguerite 2013 Cru Classé 92 (Fiano di Avellino). Made from organically Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Cabernet Franc 92 Grande Réserve Rosé (Côtes de Provence). grown grapes, it boasts a floral fragrance of chamo- outperforms its reasonable price tag. Despite being The palest of grey-pink rosés, this is classy, fresh mile, white flower, beeswax and tropical fruit. The big and dark, the palate is juicy in feel. Flavors of and fragrant. It has a light, orange-zest texture as structured, elegant palate delivers grapefruit, nec- cassis and black cherry are backed by chocolate and well as tannins and a mineral edge. Very fresh, it is tarine, peach and mineral accented with aromatic mocha, while the finish is deep and pure, with toasty also worth aging a few months. Dreyfus, Ashby & herbs. Can be held for more complexity; drink now notes and additional chocolate. Drink through 2018. Co. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. through 2020. Palm Bay International. —K.O. PL360 Beverage Partners. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $29 abv: 13.5% Price: $37 abv: 14.5% Price: $25

6 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 Teso La Monja 2011 Almirez (Toro). Black in 50 Harvests 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Brian Carter Cellars 2012 Oriana White Wine 92 color and concentrated on the nose, this 91 Valley). This is a new brand from the Davies 91 Blend (Yakima Valley). Viognier is half the Tinta de Toro overflows with cassis and blackberry family of Schramsberg, which already has its J. blend, with the rest Roussanne and Riesling, yield- aromas. The palate is lively and lifted, with plenty Davies line of ageable Diamond Mountain Caber- ing a delightfully aromatic, lightly honeyed wine, of acidity and kick. Flavors of cassis and dark ber- nets. This Cabernet, blended with a splash of Petit with a lush array of ripe fruits. Apricot, papaya, ries are charged up and toasty, while chocolate Verdot, seems a little more accessible, as well as pineapple and banana are all here, with supporting notes, firm tannins and a gritty edge define the fin- more affordable. It’s still pretty tannic, but airing acidity. Overall, this is one of the most delicious and ish. Drink through 2018. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. in the glass will soften the black currant and oak unique white wines in Washington. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. flavors. —S.H. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $26 abv: 13.9% Price: $50 abv: 13.6% Price: $22

Williams Selyem 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian Colomé 2011 Estate Malbec (Calchaquí Val- 92 River Valley). Showing impeccable elegance, Bodegas Faustino 2001 I Gran Reserva (Rioja). 91 ley). This starts out massive and grapy, but this is totally dry and tart in acidity, with a quietly 91 Rusty and mature looking, this is woodsy, dry with each passing minute it becomes more Salta, tannic astringency that suggests pairing with lamb and rooty on the nose, with whiffs of tree bark and and hence more complex. Feral, leathery, roasted- or steak. While it’s not an ager, the cola, pomegran- tobacco running alongside cherry and berry notes. berry aromas require patience. In the mouth, this is ate, cherry and mushroom flavors are classic and It’s mature, with flavors of stewed plum, herbs and tannic and muscular, with herbal, spicy, dry flavors complex. —S.H. spice that are straight from the textbook, while the of blackberry and stewed plum. Raging acidity and abv: 14.1% Price: $52 finish is dry, earthy and showing core acidity. Drink firm tannins suggest that this needs at least until now. Palm Bay International. —M.S. 2016 to settle. Hess Family Wine Estates. Cellar abv: 13.5% Price: $38 election. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30

Williams Selyem 2012 Terra de Promissio 92 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This classy young Pinot is the second release from the winery’s only Petaluma Gap vineyard. It’s bone dry, Boyanci 2011 InSpire Cabernet Sauvignon Gassier 2013 Château Gassier 946 Sélection mouthwateringly tart in acidity and delicate in 91 (Napa Valley). A huge, powerful Cabernet, 91 Parcellaire Rosé (Côtes de Provence Sainte- structure, with complex cherry, cranberry, persim- this is stuffed with blackberries, cherries, raisins Victoire). A selection from the best parcels of the mon and cola flavors, nicely augmented by smoky and sweet mocha, with a finish that’s long and sen- Gassier vineyard, this is a rounded, ripe and fruity oak. You can drink it now, after decanting for an sually sweet in spices and oak, offering immediate wine. A streak of minerality and tight texture add hour or two, and it will soften a bit, or hold until gratification. —S.H. concentration. Drink this from the end of 2014. 2020. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $60 Bronco Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 13.9% Price: $55 abv: 13% Price: $40

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Jeff Gordon 2012 Collection Chardonnay Or Haganuz 2010 Namura Single Vineyard Tulip Winery 2010 Mostly Cabernet Franc (Ju- 91 (Carneros). This wine shows plenty of Char- 91 Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Gali- 91 dean Hills). A blend of 85% Cabernet Franc donnay and oak character, with a creamy core of lee). Inky violet-red in color, this wine has aromas and 15% Merlot, this descriptively named wine has honey, peaches and toast. It will go with a wide va- of raspberry, black cherry, vanilla and mixed baking a nose of raspberry, bell pepper and leather. Flavors riety of fare, from halibut and grilled tuna to broiled spices. Flavors of black cherry, raspberry, coffee and of black cherry, raspberry, eucalyptus, anisette and chicken and mushroom risotto. —S.H. toffee are equally bright on entry and at the finish, clove coalesce on the palate among chewy tannins. abv: 14.2% Price: $42 with a nice mellow period in the middle. The silky The refined finish is enlivened by a burst of crys- finish is marked by a vivid salted toffee splash. Ko- talline acidity. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. sher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. —M.D. abv: 14.5% Price: $49 abv: 14% Price: $35

Lovingston 2010 Estate Reserve Josie’s Knoll 91 (Monticello). Dark and sexy aromas of spiced blackberry, boysenberry and blueberry compote Pierre Sparr 2011 Schoenenbourg Grand Cru come with details of potpourri, cumin seed and 91 Riesling (Alsace). This bone-dry wine is Valley of the Moon 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon leather. A blend of 90% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc beautifully perfumed, rich and full bodied. Its ripe 91 (Sonoma County). This is dry, smooth and and 5% Pinotage, this sports firm tannins that are texture is cut through with floral, apple and mineral creamy in the mouth, with rich flavors of black cur- enveloped in the wine’s finessed midpalate flesh. characters that all contribute to the complexity of rants, Kahlua liqueur and toasty oak, as well as a Long and open on the finish, with some warmth. this concentrated wine. Drink from 2017. Wilson stony minerality. It will continue to drink well Editors’ Choice. —A.H. Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. through 2018. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $35

Tokara 2009 Director’s Reserve (Stellen- Monticello Vineyards 2011 Jefferson Cuvée 91 bosch). A blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, Williams Selyem 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). While 12% Petit Verdot, 5% Merlot and 5% Malbec, this 91 Coast). This shows the lovely balance of both this wine is less expensive than some of Corley is a tight, focused selection, with excellent precision the winery and the appellation, with a silky, lightly Family’s other Cabernets, it’s beautiful. Blended to the black plum, blackberry, dried raspberry and tannic mouthfeel brightened by plenty of acidity. with one-quarter Cabernet Franc, it’s softly tannic, cassis fruit core. Well-integrated accents of leather, The flavors are delicate and complex, suggesting acidic and rich in black cherries, black and red cur- cigar box and pine resin add depth and complexity. wild raspberries, thyme, cranberries and toast. No rants and smoky sandalwood. Drink this flashy wine The medium-weight palate is structured yet el- reason to age this puppy, so drink now–2016. —S.H. through 2022. —S.H. egant, with fine-grain, lingering tannins. Drink now abv: 13.9% Price: $52 abv: 14.1% Price: $42 through 2020. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —L.B. abv: 15% Price: $44

8 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 Bloomer Creek 2011 Vin d’été Unfined & Chalk Hill 2012 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir Feudi di San Gregorio 2012 Cutizzi (Greco di 90 Unfiltered Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). 90 (Russian River Valley). This Pinot shows 90 Tufo). Made with southern Italy’s most no- Vin d’été means “summer wine,” and this delicate the ripe, sunny richness that a good vintage in Cali- ble white grape, this structured wine conveys subtle Cabernet Franc would be the perfect companion fornia can coax out of the grapes. It’s enormous in aromas of white and yellow spring flowers accented to a balmy summer eve. It’s unabashedly rustic in raspberries and cherries, with plenty of new French by whiffs of beeswax and slate. The juicy palate de- style, with touches of leafy herbs, clay and barnyard oak bringing smoky, buttered toast complexities. livers white peach, cantaloupe, pink grapefruit and accentuating crisp black-cherry flavors. Brisk and —S.H. mineral alongside fresh acidity. Palm Bay Interna- sprightly on the palate, it finishes long, with a mur- abv: 14.5% Price: $48 tional. —K.O. mur of velvety tannins. Unusual and a bit mysteri- abv: 13.5% Price: $37 ous, yet truly lovely. —A.I. abv: 11.2% Price: $18

Coquerel Family Wine Estates 2012 Le Petit 90 Coquerel Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). A Greywacke 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- beautiful wine, it shows exquisite control at balanc- 90 ough). Long-time Cloudy Bay winemaker Boyanci 2011 InSpire ROMAnce Cabernet ing green, minty notes with richer flavors of apri- Kevin Judd has been out on his own for several 90 Franc (Napa Valley). Soft and sensual in the cots, Meyer lemons, vanilla and toast. The finish is vintages, and this is a fine effort. The characteristic mouth, this offers rich, complex layers of cherries, dry and tart. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. herbal, grassy elements of Marlborough are present, red plums, mocha and cedar. So gentle and luscious, abv: 13.5% Price: $20 but toned-down, making this wine an easier fit with you can drink it now, despite the tannins. —S.H. a variety of foodstuffs. A pleasant plumpness to the abv: 14.7% Price: $65 mouthfeel turns dry and chalky on the long finish. Old Bridge Cellars. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $20

Dr. Konstantin Frank 2012 Reserve Riesling Brian Carter Cellars 2010 Byzance Red Wine 90 (Finger Lakes). This remarkably balanced 90 (Columbia Valley). Brian Carter’s Southern semi-dry wine is intensely aromatic, with scents of Rhône-influenced blend is 58% Grenache, 18% preserved yellow peaches, saffron and spice. Juicy Syrah, 18% Mourvèdre, 4% Counoise and 2% Cin- and ripe in stone fruit flavor, it’s unabashedly for- Marques de Gelida 2009 Claror Gran Reserva sault. Showing quite a bit of barrel toast at the mo- ward, yet piercing acidity and delicate mineral tones 90 Brut Nature (Cava). Dry, yeasty aromas of ment, it’s an expressive wine with a palate-pleasing lend elegance and style. Finishes with a lingering citrus and fresh-baked bread are, as expected for mix of fruit and barrel flavors. Black cherry, cassis, kiss of honey. —A.I. a brut nature, clean and focused. Flavors of white dark chocolate, espresso and cedar are all in the abv: 11.5% Price: $25 fruits, green herbs and citrus finish fresh, with mix; the middle is full and fruity, and the finish more than adequate fruit and balance. Jorge Or- shows real gravitas. —P.G. doñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $34 abv: 12% Price: $31

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Midsummer Cellars 2013 Grenache Rosé Planeta 2012 Carricante (Sicilia). Made Scratch 2013 Rosé (Monterey County). This 90 (Yolo County). Made from 88% Grenache 90 from Carricante and a small amount of 90 elegant yet fun Pinot Noir-based rosé is and 12% Viognier, this lilting wine abounds with Riesling, this bright, sleek wine conveys intense characterized by a voluptuous body, a supple frame dry, fruity and floral characteristics. Salmon-peach floral and stone-fruit aromas. The palate delivers on which to affix the typically pleasing rosé scents in color, it has texture and the requisite refresh- white peach, green apple, pear and nectarine along- and flavors of bubblegum and wild strawberry. The ment offered by its barely ripe strawberry and peach side hints of honey and nut, all nicely balanced by finish lingers, with sour apple warmth that recalls swathes. Although it delivers enough acidity and firm acidity. Palm Bay International. —K.O. the last lick of a Jolly Rancher candy. —M.K. bite to pair with food, it might be hard to wait that abv: 13.5% Price: $36 abv: 12.7% Price: $18 long. —V.B. abv: 13.8% Price: $19

Planeta 2012 Cometa (Sicilia). Made en- Zaca Mesa 2013 Z Gris Estate Grown and Bot- 90 tirely of Fiano, this full-bodied white is 90 tled Dry Rosé (Santa Ynez Valley). As can Montefiore 2012 Malbec-Shiraz-Petite Sirah loaded with white peach, lemon drop, sage, rose- happen with young wines like just-released rosé, a 90 (Judean Hills). The nose is slightly feral, mary and mineral sensations. It’s round and juicy slight bit of effervescence is visible. The interesting bearing fragrances of brambly boysenberry and wild and will continue to develop complexity over the smell of fermentation gives rise to strawberry and blueberry. There is a nice play between fruit and next few years. Drink through 2017. Palm Bay Inter- pink bubblegum scents. The gum persists on the savory notes, with flavors of raspberry, strawberry, national. —K.O. palate, but in a pleasant, not overwhelming or sweet smoked meat and summer farm stand. Mellow tan- abv: 13% Price: $42 way, as does red licorice and watermelon. —M.K. nins offer an ample preface to a citrus-zest finish abv: 13.5% Price: $16 amped up by a touch of salted caramel. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. abv: 14% Price: $20

Saint Clair 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- 90 ough). Saint Clair’s main Sauvignon Blanc Mt. Beautiful 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Canter- One Woman 2010 Estate Reserve Merlot bottling came out really well in 2013, balancing 89 bury). Not a flashy, highly aromatic render- 90 (North Fork of Long Island). Luscious black- green leafy notes with grapefruit elements. It’s not ing of Sauvignon Blanc, this is instead somewhat berry and cherry notes are marked with hints of as big or bold as some of the Pioneer Block wines, restrained and grapefruity, with modest hints of bramble and spice in this bold yet elegantly framed but instead boasts a sense of firmness and a fine line struck flint and passion fruit to add interest. It’s wine. The palate feels lush and warm with judicious of chalk and acid from start to finish. Winesellers crisp and citrusy, with a long finish. A solid perfor- oak, yet bright, with a shower of cranberry acidity Ltd. —J.C. mance by any measure. Mt. Beautiful USA. —J.C. and fine-grain tannins that penetrate through the abv: 13% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $17 finish. —A.I. abv: 13.1% Price: $48

10 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 One Woman 2012 Gruner Veltliner (North Finca [ñ] 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Rubbery Kirkland Signature 2012 Meritage (Ruther- 89 Fork of Long Island). Fresh apple and pear 87 plum and berry aromas are standard but 86 ford). This young, firm wine offers aggres- aromas are marked by touches of blossom and good. This wine is acidic in feel, thus it’s bright and sive tannins and prominent acidity, with cherry, smoke in this unusual, yet thoroughly enjoyable a bit austere. Flavors of plum and berry fruits run blackberry and prune flavors. The wine shows Gruner Veltliner from Long Island. Round and rich, long, with an oaky character rising up. More than ample structure, so give this time in the decanter the palate is concentrated, with honeyed peach and most Argentinean Malbecs, this cries out for food in before drinking now. —S.H. apricot flavors, but balanced by soft acidity and a order to balance things out. Freixenet USA. —M.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $14 delicate mineral tone. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $20

Kirkland Signature 2012 Signature Series Tenuta Rapitalà 2013 Piano Maltese (Terre 86 Merlot (Oakville). This Merlot currently of- Sileni 2013 The Straits Reserve Sauvignon 87 Siciliane). A blend of Grillo, Cataratto and fers a dry palate and firm tannins. As it warms in 88 Blanc (Marlborough). This wine success- Chardonnay, this opens with aromas of tropical the glass, subtle blackberry, cola and pepper notes fully embodies the tropical fruit side of Marlbor- fruit and apricot. The rich palate is loaded with emerge. It’s pretty tightly wound for a Merlot, but ough Sauvignon Blanc, blending hints of pineapple golden apple and yellow peach flavors that are ac- it’s attractively priced and should soften with a lit- and passion fruit into a package that includes ample cented by notes of vanilla and lemon drop. Frederick tle time to breathe. —S.H. weight and a clean, refreshing finish. Prestige Wine Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Group. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $13 abv: 13% Price: $16

Kirkland Signature 2012 Signature Series Fox Meadow 2010 Cabernet Franc (Virginia). 86 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This is Starborough 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- 86 Buttery, broad dark-fruit aromas pick up a well-priced Chardonnay that’s rich and properly 88 borough). With almost a quarter-million touches of tobacco, char and coffee grounds. On varietal. It’s fruit-forward in pineapples, papayas, cases imported, this wine will provide a solid, the palate, the soft acids and easy tannins give this green apples and pears, with a subtle oak influence. medium-­weight introduction to Marlborough Sau- medium-bodied wine a docile feel. Syrupy red-fruit The texture is smooth and creamy. Editors’ Choice. vignon Blanc. Herb and cut-grass notes accent the notes appear on the finish. —A.H. —S.H. fig and melon fruit, backstopped by a lime-ridden abv: 12.5% Price: $27 abv: 14.1% Price: $13 finish. E & J Gallo. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $15

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BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Château Vignelaure 2013 La Source Rosé (Co- Dr. Konstantin Frank 2012 Semi Dry Riesling Wither Hills 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Wairau 91 teaux d’Aix-en-Provence). This benchmark 90 (Finger Lakes). The historic Dr. Konstantin 90 Valley). For the price, this is remarkably rosé is round yet fresh, and crisp while ripely fruity. Frank winery has long been a source for consistent, concentrated, with ample weight and intense fla- Red berry fruits are finely textured and attractive well-priced wines in the Finger Lakes. Pretty on the vors. It’s more subdued on the nose, offering just acidity cuts through the full body of the wine. It nose, with delicate floral and stone-fruit aromas, it hints of stuck flint and grapefruit, but the citrusy would be worth aging until late 2014. Blue Coast builds in intensity and power on the palate, with a flavors surge forward, culminating in a long, grape- International. Best Buy. —R.V. crush of sweet-tart grapefruit and nectarine flavors. fruity finish. Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Part- abv: 13% Price: $15 Hints of fresh herb, honeycomb and zippy lemon- ners. Best Buy. —J.C. lime acidity add nuance and balance to a long finish. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $15

Barnard Griffin 2013 Rosé of Sangiovese 90 (Columbia Valley). As reliable as the first Clifford Bay 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- flowers of spring, this perennial best-of-show win- Fire Road 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- 89 ough). This medium-weight wine starts off ner offers lovely scents and flavors of fresh-picked 90 ough). Winemaker Alana McGettigan is with wonderfully pure, expressive aromas of ripe strawberries. Subtle suggestions of rose water and an associate of Matt Thomson (Saint Clair, Delta), passion fruit. On the palate, it’s a bit prickly and orange peel can be found, along with some precise so it’s no surprise this Sauvignon Blanc overdeliv- leafy at first, like tomato stalks or nettle leaves. It fruit-skin flavors.Best Buy. —P.G. ers. Hints of tomato leaf garnish passion fruit and then settles back down into tropical fruit on the abv: 12.9% Price: $12 citrus flavors in this wine, which reveals a certain long, mouthwatering finish. Drink now. Foley Fam- amount of austerity and restraint on the palate, a ily Wines. Best Buy. —J.C. silky texture and a long, grapefruit-driven finish. abv: 13% Price: $13 Wine­sellers Ltd. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $14

Dr. Konstantin Frank 2013 Pinot Noir Dry 90 Rosé (Finger Lakes). Ripe cherry and lus- cious watermelon aromas waft from this summery, Zeal 2013 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- fresh wine. It’s dry on the palate but concentrated, Recanati 2012 Rosé (Galilee). A blend of 89 borough). A pleasant surprise among value- with bright cherry and berry flavors. Round and 90 70% Barbera and 30% Merlot, this wine priced bottlings, this wine features a hint of gun lush yet briskly balanced, it’s a great summer quaf- shows a deep rose color. Aromas of peach and soft flint that adds dimension to the fig, melon and pink fer at a fantastic price. Best Buy. —A.I. rose petal continue on the palate, along with flavors grapefruit flavors. It’s rather round in the mouth abv: 12.5% Price: $14 of clove and cranberry. The wine offers the flavor and perhaps a little sweet, but finishes long and sa- and tannins of a full-bodied red along with the vory. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —J.C. crisp, refreshing notes of an easy-drinking white. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Kosher. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.D. abv: 12.5% Price: $15

12 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 BEST BUYS BEST BUYS BEST BUYS

Alamos 2012 Red Blend (Mendoza). Ripe Makara 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- Zeal 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). 88 plum and berry aromas come with spice 88 ough). This seems a bit riper and rounder 88 This is a bit more punchy and pungent than notes before a supremely generous palate that’s than most Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs, but it Zeal’s Reserve bottling, but it still offers consider- loud and flavorful in blackberry, cassis and black remains varietally on target. Gooseberry and pink able value. There’s ample weight and just enough cherry fruit. On the finish, chocolate and oak influ- grapefruit aromas and flavors finish on a mouth- citrusy fruit to support the sweaty, nettle-y aromat- ences roll in as the tannins subside. For power, fla- watering note. Drink now. Vintage Point. Best Buy. ics and herbal flavors. Try it with fresh herb-laden vor and clarity, this is a sure bet. E & J Gallo. Best —J.C. dishes like ceviches or steamed mussels. Prestige Buy. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Wine Group. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Price: $10

Mohua 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- Ara 2013 Pathway Single Estate Sauvi- 88 ough). This medium- to full-bodied wine Barton & Guestier 2013 Rosé (Côtes de 88 gnon Blanc (Marlborough). This is a crisp, features hints of struck flint on the nose, then backs 87 Provence). Fresh and fruity, this balances tightly focused offering, but one that doesn’t lack those up with round, ample flavors of fig and melon. ripe red fruits with a touch of caramel and light, fruit. Scents of guava and gooseberry mark the It’s a relatively soft, easy-drinking style with just crisp acidity. It is fragrant and perfumed, and would nose, while the flavors are more like grapefruit and enough complexity to satisfy. Vineyard Brands. Best make an excellent apéritif. Barton & Guestier USA. under­ripe pineapple. It shows admirable length for Buy. —J.C. Best Buy. —R.V. such an inexpensive wine. Ara Wines International. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 abv: 13% Price: $12 Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $13

Salentein 2012 Portillo Estate Bottled Mal- Gallo Family Vineyards NV Hearty Burgundy 88 bec (Uco Valley). Leathery aromas blend 87 (California). This year marks the 50th birth- Brancott 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- well with concentrated black-fruit scents. In the day of Hearty Burgundy, one of the most famous 88 ough). Even Brancott’s entry-level Sauvi- mouth, this value-priced Malbec offers juicy purity wines in American history. It has always offered gnon Blanc is a solid effort, adding a hint of fumé and plenty of spunk. Flavors of black fruits, licorice solid pleasure in a red, and still does. A blend of character to its otherwise straightforward blend of and chocolate maintain a sense of freshness, while Zinfandel and Petite Sirah, it’s dry, full-bodied and stone and passion fruit. There might be a touch of the finish offers residual blackberry and cassis fla- rich in cherry jam, licorice and black pepper flavors, residual sugar to give the impression of weight, but vors. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S. subtly touched with smoky wood. Best Buy. —S.H. it’s balanced by the tangy acids on the finish. Per- abv: 14% Price: $10 abv: 12.5% Price: $9/1.5 L nod Ricard. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $13

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BUYINGGUIDE

fruity, it has a mineral edge that will allow it to age BEST BUYS SPIRITS until late 2014. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $13

Ravoire et Fils 2013 Domaine la Rabiotte 86 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Tight, zingy and crisp, this wine has fresh, citrus character that comes right up front. It is light and fruity, with raspberries and red currants. With its very dry af- tertaste, it is for food. Saranty Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

Château Pigoudet 2013 Insolite Rosé (Co- 85 teaux d’Aix-en-Provence). On the rich side, Kirkland Signature 2012 Merlot (Columbia Waterloo Texas-Style Gin (USA; Treaty Oak this smooth wine discloses flavors of caramel and 87 Valley). This is fruity and clean, with plenty 93 Distilling Co., Austin, TX). So what is “Texas-­ toasted almonds as well as fruit. It leaves a sweet of pretty cherry-fruit flavor. A whiff of wood smoke style” gin, exactly? It’s “big as Texas,” the producer feeling, rounded and ripe, finished with a touch of and pipe tobacco carves its way through the fruit boasts. More specifically, it’s bright, fresh and pepper and spice. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. and into the finish.Best Buy. —P.G. well-structured, bursting with juniper, rosemary abv: 13.5% Price: $22 abv: 14.5% Price: $9 and grapefruit. Bottled at 94 proof, it’s also quite muscular, finishing with a warmth that should be CÔTES DE PROVENCE tempered when mixed into drinks. Pecans are listed among the botanicals used, although they are im- LA LONDE possible to detect. Best Buy. abv: 47% Price: $19 Domaine Saint-André de Figuière 2013 Confi- 92 dentielle Rosé (Côtes de Provence La Londe). Pale salmon pink, this is a beautiful wine both to look at and to taste. It combines a light touch of red fruits with bright acidity and a rich texture. Fresh and pure fruited, it will age through 2015. Paul M. Young Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $52 Phantom Bay 2013 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 87 (Marlborough). It’s hard to take “Reserve” Château les Valentines 2013 8 by Château seriously when it’s on a $10 bottle, but the juice in- 91 les Valentines Rosé (Côtes de Provence La side is very good. A subtle note of struck flint adds Londe). The La Londe appellation came into exis- interest to aromas and flavors of underripe stone Sipsmith London Dry Gin (England; Wilson tence in 2008 and this wine celebrates that fact. fruit, guava and citrus, while the finish is long and 90 Daniels, St Helena, CA). The label lists 10 Rounded and smooth, it has a touch of saltiness as grapefruity. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —J.C. botanicals with international provenance used to well as dried red berry fruits and intense acidity. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 infuse this gin (Macedonian juniper berries, Seville Drink from the end of 2014. Avant Garde Wine & orange peel, Italian orris root). The end result is a Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. citrus-and-juniper profile, with a good dose of anise abv: 13% Price: $29 and a hint of lavender on the palate, and a smooth, gentle finish. Château du Galoupet 2013 Le Galoupet Rosé abv: 41.6% Price: $40 88 (Côtes de Provence La Londe). Soft and lightly fruity, it has flavors of bitter almonds as well as red fruits. This gives the wine a firm character with some tannins and a mineral texture. Wait until late 2014 before drinking. DB Wine Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $15

Natale Verga 2013 Grecanico (Terre Sicil- CÔTES DE PROVENCE 85 iane). This opens with delicate aromas of yellow apple, stone fruit and lemon zest. The easy- SAINTE-VICTOIRE drinking palate offers green apple and citrus along- side fresh acidity. Jandell Selections. Best Buy. SW4 London Dry Gin (England; Luxe Vintag- Domaine des Diables 2013 Bonbon Rosé —K.O. 90 es, Boca Raton, FL). A small-batch London 92 (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). This abv: 12% Price: $8 dry gin actually distilled within the borders of Lon- rosé needs to age. It has a zesty, crisp and min- don (Clapham North, South London to be exact), eral texture that is tight and nervy. As it softens, this bold and bright gin offers a clean juniper aroma more red fruits will come to the front, although the and flavors that show grapefruit peel and assertive structure will remain, making this a serious rosé licorice. It’s relatively hot and peppery if sipped for drinking with food. Riahi Selections. Editors’ alone, but regains balance when mixed, bringing the Choice. —R.V. citrus and anise back into focus. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 abv: 40% Price: $30

14 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 Gassier 2013 Château Gassier 946 Sélection Domaine des Diables 2013 Le Petit Diable Wait until 2015. Vranken America. Editors’ Choice. 91 Parcellaire Rosé (Côtes de Provence Sainte- 86 Rosé (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). —R.V. Victoire). For full review see page 7. This is bright, fruity and very crisp. An herbaceous abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $40 character suggests flavors of grapefruit as well as red currants. The acidity at the end makes the wine Château Roubine 2013 Rosé (Côtes de Mas de Cadenet 2013 Rosé (Côtes de Provence seem very dry. Riahi Selections. —R.V. 91 Provence). Packed with red fruits, it shows 91 Sainte-Victoire). This estate wine has rich abv: 12.5% Price: $16 structure and concentration. A mineral texture fruits that are totally balanced with the acidity and brings out the freshness of the fruit while also giv- the ripe red fruit flavors. A crisp texture offers acid- ing complexity. It could benefit from aging, so wait ity and a full body. It will be even better by the end CÔTES DE PROVENCE until the end of 2014. European Wine Imports. Edi- of 2014. David Bowler Wine. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. tors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Château d’Esclans 2012 Garrus Rosé (Côtes abv: 13% Price: $23 92 de Provence). For full review see page 6. Château Maupague 2013 Rosé (Côtes de abv: 14% Price: $100 Château Sainte Roseline 2013 La Chapelle de 90 Provence Sainte-Victoire). Red fruits drive 91 Sainte-Roseline Rosé (Côtes de Provence). this tangy, fruity wine that is given shape by a more Château Sainte Marguerite 2013 Cru Classé This is the top cuvée from Sainte-Roseline (you can mineral texture. With dusty raspberry and plum fla- 92 Grande Réserve Rosé (Côtes de Provence). tell from the weight of the bottle). It has power, a vors, it is shot through at the end with citrus. Frank For full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. smooth texture and a rounded aftertaste. The red Johnson Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $29 fruits are well integrated into the rich texture. It abv: 12.5% Price: $NA would be worth aging this until the end of 2014. Vi- Estandon 2012 Estandon Légende Rosé dalco International, LLC. —R.V. Domaine Houchart 2013 Rosé (Côtes 92 (Côtes de Provence). After an extra year’s abv: 13.5% Price: $60 90 de Provence Sainte-Victoire). Domaine aging, this wine’s richness is very apparent. It may Houchart is one of the top estates in Sainte-Vic- have lost immediate freshness but it has gained in Château Sainte Roseline 2013 Le Cloître de toire. This ripe while deliciously fruity and fresh ripe fruits, in texture and in depth. It’s a complex 91 Sainte Roseline Rosé (Côtes de Provence). The wine is full of raspberries, ripe red currants and a wine worth pairing with food. Southern Wine and wine feels rich, dense and packed with ripe fruiti- refreshing line of acidity. David Milligan Selections. Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. ness. Delicious, refreshing acidity gives these red Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $23 fruits a lift and crispness. This is a serious wine, abv: 13% Price: $20 demanding food. Vidalco International, LLC. Edi- Château d’Esclans 2013 Rosé (Côtes de tors’ Choice. —R.V. Domaine Sainte Lucie 2012 L’Hydropathe 91 Provence). The estate wine from Sacha Lich- abv: 13% Price: $25 90 Rosé (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). ine’s Château d’Esclans discloses deeper color than Hydropathe means someone who reacts against wa- some rosés from Provence. It has a ripe feel, smooth Domaines Ott 2013 Clos Mireille Rosé (Côtes ter, presumably preferring wine. From hard against red fruits and a touch of toastiness. Full-bodied and 91 de Provence). A smooth and rounded wine the slopes of Mount Sainte-Vicoire, this is a struc- dry, it is definitely a food rosé, and best left until this rich wine has caramel as well as ripe strawberry tured, rich and fruity wine. It reveals a strong citrus late 2014 before drinking. Shaw-Ross International flavors. A light touch of saltiness gives extra inter- element as well as red fruits and a strongly mineral Importers. —R.V. est. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. texture. The Wine Pro. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 abv: 13.5% Price: $48 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Château d’Esclans 2012 Les Clans Rosé (Côtes Château de Berne 2013 Terres de Berne Domaine Terre de Mistral 2013 Rosalie Rosé 91 de Provence). One of the two luxury wines 90 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). In its tall square 90 (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). A ripe, from Château d’Esclans, Les Clans is rich, wood- bottle, this makes a striking presentation. The wine opulent wine, it’s full of red berry and plum fruits aged and full of ripe and rounded fruit flavors. With inside has the same sense of presence, with a ripe, layered with vanilla and spice. It is full in the mouth the extra year of aging, it has lost some initial fresh- full-bodied structure that’s full of red fruits with and generous. At the end, a fresher element shows ness but has gained complexity and structure. The only light acidity. Fruitiness makes it delicious as through. Soif.de. —R.V. wine is full-bodied while remaining very stylish. an apéritif. International Spirits & Wines, LLC. Edi- abv: 13% Price: $NA Drink now. Shaw-Ross International Importers. tors’ Choice. —R.V. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 Domaine Terre de Mistral 2013 Villa Rosalie abv: 14% Price: $70 89 Rosé (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). Château Deffends 2013 Cuvée Première Rosé This wine certainly is rich with powerful fruit. But Château du Galoupet 2013 Rosé (Côtes de 90 (Côtes de Provence). If any rosé can be seri- it also has delicious, refreshing acidity that cuts 91 Provence). From one of the classed growths ous, it’s this. It has structure as well as fruit, a sense through the ripe fruit flavors to give the whole wine of Provence, this wine is intense with ripe fruits. of purpose, ripe red fruits and tight acidity. It could a lift. It is best with food and will be even better at Red plum, red currant and berry fruit flavors go even age, so wait to drink it until late in summer the end of 2014. Soif.de. —R.V. with a steely, nervy texture that needs to age. Drink 2014. New France Wine Co. Best Buy. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $NA from the end of 2014. DB Wine Selection. Editors’ abv: 13% Price: $15 Choice. —R.V. Château Henri Bonaud 2013 Terre Promise abv: 13% Price: $22 Château la Mascaronne 2013 Quat’ Saisons 88 Rosé (Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire). A 90 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Quat’ Saisons, fruity wine, it shows ripe red berries, red currants Château la Gordonne 2013 La Chapelle Gor- meaning four seasons, suggests that this wine isn’t and refreshing acidity. So while the wine has weight, 91 donne Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Complex just for summer. It is certainly a food wine with its it is also totally fresh and crisp. It’s a rosé for food, and rich, it has ripe red fruits that are full of sweet- dry, full-bodied character and ripe caramel and red rich while balanced. The Wine Trust. —R.V. ness as well as some fresher acidity. With red plum, plum flavors. Lively and fresh at the end, it’s ready abv: 13.5% Price: $20 minerality and vanilla, it can age for a few months. to drink. Integrity Wines LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $24

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Château Léoube 2013 Rosé de Léoube Rosé Château Léoube 2013 Sécret de Léoube Rosé bright red currant fruits and attractive acidity. 90 (Côtes de Provence). Along with weight and 89 (Côtes de Provence). As pale in color as it Wines of Provence. —R.V. richness, this wine also has a lively fresh, red fruit comes, this is a delicate, delicious wine. Vanilla fla- abv: 13% Price: $NA character. Caramel and ripe berries are shot through vors vie with the freshest acidity and then ripe red with acidity to give a warm, yet bright wine. AP plum fruits to give a wine that is both rounded and Château Minuty 2013 Prestige Rosé (Côtes Wine Imports. —R.V. crisp. AP Wine Imports. —R.V. 88 de Provence). This is a fine entry-level rosé abv: 13% Price: $30 abv: 13% Price: $40 from this Provence classed-growth estate. It has fresh red fruits and a light texture that is rounded Château les Valentines 2013 Rosé (Côtes de Château Saint-Pierre 2013 Tradition Rosé out with some concentration and almond flavors. 90 Provence). Obviously a wine to drink on 89 (Côtes de Provence). Ripe and smooth, it Drink now. Romano Brands. —R.V. February 14, this is brightly fruity and crisp while has layers of red fruits, a touch of caramel and deli- abv: 13% Price: $40 showing some good dense flavors. Red fruits push cious acidity. It’s full of flavor with depth as well as through the citrus and grapefruit acidity to give a some richness. Luxe Vintages. —R.V. Château Pas du Cerf 2013 Rosé (Côtes de full-bodied, ripe wine. Potomac Selections. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 88 Provence). Crisp and fruity, this wine de- abv: 13% Price: $25 mands to be drunk this summer. With bright red Domaine de la Sanglière 2013 La Riviera fruits, a light smoky texture and lime zest flavor, Château Réal Martin 2013 Perle de Rosé 89 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Totally fresh and it is light, fresh and fragrant at the end. Winebow. 90 (Côtes de Provence). From a 100-acre estate fruity, the wine also shows a light touch of vanilla. —R.V. formerly the home of the Counts of Provence, this It is deliciously packed with ripe fruits, as well as abv: 12.5% Price: $15 wine has a great fruity character allied to a more acidity and some structure. Drink now. Misa Im- mineral texture. With richness and vanilla flavors ports. —R.V. Château Thuerry 2013 Le Château Rosé it is both packed with raspberry fruits and showing abv: 13% Price: $NA 88 (Côtes de Provence). While the wine is full structure. Keep until the end of 2014. Wineberry bodied and rich, it is also deliciously fresh and with America LLC. —R.V. Domaine Sainte-Marie 2013 Vie Vité Extraor- lively fruitiness. There is great acidity here, a bright abv: 13% Price: $20 89 dinaire Rosé (Côtes de Provence). With more layer of red currant fruits and wild strawberries, weight than its partner Vie Vité, this is a rich wine, making it a good food rosé. Angels’ Share Wines. Domaine Saint-André de Figuière 2013 Pre- with red plum as well as berry fruits. Almonds, va- —R.V. 90 mière de Figuière Rosé (Côtes de Provence). nilla and a mineral texture all contribute to its nat- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 The heavy bottle indicates the importance attached ural ripeness. Wait until the end of 2014. Turquoise to this wine by its producer. Structured and full Life. —R.V. Domaine de Caseneuve 2013 Rosé (Côtes de bodied, it bursts with crisp fruits, mineral acidity abv: 13% Price: $28 88 Provence). There is plenty of fruit here, but and a touch of herbaceousness. Keep it until late there is also some richness, caramel flavors and a 2014 to broaden out. AP Wine Imports. —R.V. Domaines Ott 2013 Château de Selle Rosé rounded texture that gives a sense of weight. Acidity abv: 12.5% Price: $30 89 (Côtes de Provence). Ott’s new lighter, at the end adds freshness. BNP Distributing. —R.V. fresher style continues to develop well. This red- abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Château Barbanau 2013 L’Instant Rosé fruited rosé is crisp, deliciously fragrant and bright 89 (Côtes de Provence). Produced from organic with a light tangy touch that gives a final bite. Mai- Domaine de la Sanglière 2013 Cuvée Spéciale grapes, like so many in Provence, this is light, fruity sons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. 88 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Soft and fruity, and lively. Fresh acidity goes with the red currant abv: 13% Price: $48 it’s bone dry, very crisp and totally fresh. Red cur- fruits and the tight, nervy texture. It’s lightly per- rants dominate this wine that has intense acidity fumed and fine as an apéritif. Francki Wine. —R.V. Château Hermitage Saint-Martin 2013 Ikon and light zesty aftertaste. Misa Imports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 88 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). In Provence, abv: 12.5% Price: $NA heavy bottle seems to equal high alcohol. It’s true Château d’Esclans 2013 Whispering Angel here, with a wine that, while it has the right pale Domaine Saint-André de Figuière 2013 Cuvée 89 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This attractively grey pink color, is almost too rich for its own good. 88 Signature Magali Rosé (Côtes de Provence). rounded wine has a fine balance between red fruits It does have fruit and acidity but they are just a part A fresh and crisp wine, it is softly fruity with in- and a crisp texture that is lined with vanilla. It is of a powerful and ripe wine. Age it until the end tense layers of acidity. It’s immediately appealing light in the mouth, fruity, fresh at the end and ready of 2014 for best results. Wine Collection Holding. with red fruits and crisp citrus at the end. Paul M. to drink. Shaw-Ross International Importers. —R.V. —R.V. Young Fine Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 14% Price: $35 abv: 13% Price: $23

Château de Pampelonne 2013 Rosé (Côtes de Château la Gordonne 2013 Verité du Terroir Domaine Sainte Lucie 2013 Made in Provence 89 Provence). Full bodied and ripe, it has great 88 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Very salmon pink 88 by Ste Lucie Rosé (Côtes de Provence). The fruitiness as well as a textured, steely character that in color, this lively, crisp wine has some weight as chic fruity character is fresh while also well tex- provides both freshness and structure. A complex well as refreshing fruit. It is full-bodied, with citrus tured. Mineral and red fruit flavors are stylishly in- wine it has some aging potential, certainly until the and raspberry fruits, dry and very fresh at the end. tegrated to give a wine with a sense of crispness and end of 2014. Jeff Wellburn Selections. —R.V. Vranken America. —R.V. a smooth aftertaste. The Wine Pro. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA

Château l’Afrique 2013 Rosé (Côtes de Château la Martinette 2013 Rollier de la Mar- Domaine Sorin 2013 Terra Amata Rosé 89 Provence). It’s full of bright red fruits, a 88 tinette Rosé (Côtes de Provence). The Rol- 88 (Côtes de Provence). From Bandol producer lively mineral texture and a pure line of acidity. lier is a bird found in warm, dry places in southern Sorin, this is a rich wine with just a light saltiness Bone dry, it is as fresh and crisp as possible. Cru Europe, just like Provence. Fresh, light and fruity, from the vineyard’s proximity to the sea. It has pure Wines. —R.V. the wine certainly flies into the glass. It is dry, with abv: 12.5% Price: $25

16 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 fruit, an attractive citrus tang and lively line of final crisp fruit, giving a round texture, smooth and rich. wine, crisp yet with a soft aftertaste. It stays lively acidity. Grape Expectations (CA). Best Buy. —R.V. The red fruits are bright and have the fresh final right to the end. Cognac One, LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 acidity. Wade & Clark Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $17 Hecht & Bannier 2013 Rosé (Côtes de Château Cavalier 2013 Rosé (Côtes de 88 Provence). This is a new wine from these Château Sainte Roseline 2013 Cuvée Lampe 86 Provence). An attractive, crisp wine, it has enterprising négociants. Fruity, crisp and light, 87 de Méduse Rolle (Côtes de Provence). S o ft just a touch of caramel as well as citrus fruits. These it has a tangy orange zest texture that gives extra and fresh, this fruity wine discloses attractive acid- flavors balance the raspberry freshness and tangy fi- brightness. Very fresh and ready to drink. Frederick ity as well as crisp red fruits. A light, bright texture nal acidity. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V. Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. makes it totally ready to drink, with a lift of acidity abv: 12.5% Price: $18 abv: 12.5% Price: $17 at the end. Vidalco International, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30 Château Roubine 2013 Inspire Rosé (Côtes Les Vignobles Gueissard 2013 Les Papilles 86 de Provence). Very rich, this perfumed wine 88 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Well balanced, Domaine de la Sanglière 2013 Rosé (Côtes de has considerable weight. It is powerful, perhaps too ripe and fresh, it reveals raspberry fruits, an attrac- 87 Provence). The simplest wine from La San- powerful, and its dense fruits and structure don’t tive mineral texture and citrus acidity. The style, glière is as attractive as the rest of the range. It has fit the norm of Provence rosés. European Wine Im- definitely dry, needs food. Winebow. —R.V. a tangy, bright texture, very crisp with raspberry ports. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 fruits and bone-dry acidity. It is ready to drink. Left abv: 13.5% Price: $27 Bank Wine Company. —R.V. Barton & Guestier 2013 Rosé (Côtes de abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Domaine Houchart 2013 Rosé (Côtes de 87 Provence). For full review see page 13. Best 86 Provence). Light and fresh, this is a crisp, Buy. Domaine Sainte Lucie 2013 MIP Made in red berry flavored wine with lively acidity and a dry, abv: 13% Price: $12 87 Provence Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Ripe red bright aftertaste. Ready to drink. David Milligan Se- fruits are the main character of this soft, rounded lections. —R.V. Château de Berne 2013 Romance Rosé (Côtes wine. Attractive acidity with grapefruit and lemon abv: 13% Price: $15 87 de Provence). The palest pink grey in color, zest flavors are balanced by a warmer element. Sav- it is ripe and caramel flavored. Sweet red fruits give io Soares Selections. —R.V. Domaine Sainte-Marie 2013 Paparazzi Rosé a soft texture, full-bodied and rounded. The after- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 86 (Côtes de Provence). As fresh and fruity as taste is all fruit. International Spirits & Wines, LLC. possible, this is a lively wine. Coming in a darkened —R.V. Les Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu’île de bottle it looks stylish on a table, although its fra- abv: 13% Price: $14 87 Saint-Tropez 2013 Les Voiles de Saint-Tropez grant red fruits make it even better as an apéritif. Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This is a barely pink rosé, Turquoise Life. —R.V. Château de la Galinière 2013 Le Cengle Vie- perfect to reflect the Mediterranean sea. Fresh and abv: 12.5% Price: $20 87 illes Vignes Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Rich in fruity, it carries just the lightest tang of lemon zest style, this full-bodied rosé boasts ripe red fruits and and is ready to drink. Jerome Selection. —R.V. Domaine Sainte-Marie 2013 Vie Vité Rosé a rounded, smooth character. The lift from acidity abv: 13% Price: $NA 86 (Côtes de Provence). Crisp fruit is broad- gives essential freshness at the end. USA Wine Im- ened by caramel flavors and soft acidity. Ripe red ports. —R.V. Les Vignobles Gueissard 2013 Cuvée G Rosé cherries dominate along with a smooth texture. This abv: 13.5% Price: $17 87 (Côtes de Provence). Soft and ripe, it is is a fine apéritif style, ready to drink. Turquoise Life. gently fruity with light acidity. Plenty of red berry —R.V. Mas de Pampelonne 2013 Rosé (Côtes de flavors are cut with a textured edge. Light and styl- abv: 12.5% Price: $19 87 Provence). Close to the beach of Pam- ish, it is a fine apéritif style. French Country Wines. pelonne, this is a ancient vineyard. It has produced —R.V. Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter 2013 Les Jolies a 2013 that is full of fruit, dense red flavors and abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 86 Filles Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Burgundy fresh acidity. The wine is rich and lightly textured. producer Aegerter has come up with a bright and Jeff Wellburn Selections. —R.V. Mas de Cadenet 2013 Arbaude Rosé (Côtes breezy Provence rosé whose style sums up the light- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 87 de Provence). Pinker in color than many er side of these wines. It is fruity, fresh, very clean Provence rosés, this full-bodied wine has ripe and crisp. Misa Imports. —R.V. Château les Valentines 2013 Le Caprice de strawberry fruits, rich acidity and a touch of cara- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 87 Clémentine Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This mel. With the weight and smooth texture, it will be bright wine has red fruits, citrus and a light miner- better with food. The House Of Burgundy. —R.V. Les Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu’île de ality, finishing crisply. Wait until late 2014 for it to abv: 12.5% Price: $20 86 Saint-Tropez 2013 Saint-Roch les Vignes open up. Evaton, Inc. —R.V. Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This immediately attrac- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Mas de Cadenet 2013 Nuit Blanche en tive fruity wine does everything a dry, fresh rosé 87 Provence Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Full of should. With bright fruits, layered acidity and rich- Château Montaud 2013 Rosé (Côtes de raspberry fruits but also with some structure, this ness, it is very ready to drink with food. Jerome Se- 87 Provence). Warm while also fresh, this is a ready-to-drink apéritif wine. Lively acidity give lection. —R.V. rounded wine is full of red fruits, lit up by a touch it a crisp aftertaste. David Bowler Wine. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA of spice and freshened with acidity. Clean and crisp, abv: 13% Price: $15 it’s just bursting with fruit at the end. Monsieur Château Coussin 2013 La Croix du Prieur Rosé Touton Selection Ltd. Best Buy. —R.V. Xavier Flouret 2013 Nationale 7 Rosé (Côtes 85 (Côtes de Provence). A perfumed wine, it abv: 12.5% Price: $10 87 de Provence). Named after the highway that wafts aromas of violets. It also is full of red fruits, joins Paris and Provence, this a light and fruity has a light texture of acidity and orange peel, and Château Riotor 2013 Rosé (Côtes de 87 Provence). A touch of caramel lies over the

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delivers crisp acidity. Tangy and bright, it’s ready to minerality, it is both ripe and full of brightness. Mi- fruity, it has ripe citrus and pear flavors layered drink. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V. chael Corso Selections. —R.V. with a more mineral, salty texture. It’s tangy, full abv: 12.5% Price: $17 abv: 12.5% Price: $25 bodied and cut with tight acidity at the end. Vran- ken America. —R.V. Gassier 2013 L’Amphore de Provence Rosé Château Margüi 2013 Perle de Margüi Rosé abv: 13.5% Price: $20 85 (Côtes de Provence). This amphora-shaped 89 (Coteaux Varois en Provence). A pure line bottle is a reminder that Provençal wine goes back of fruitiness dominates this wine. Ripe wild straw- Commanderie de la Bargemone 2013 Cu- to Ancient Greek times. The wine is more modern, berry flavors are in charge with acidity giving an at- 88 vée Marina (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). very fresh and clean with bright acidity and light tractive sharp edge. The wine is round, full in the Although the wine has some richness and yellow red fruits. It’s aromatic, fruity and crisp at the end. mouth, rich at the end. Michael Corso Selections. fruits, the crisp acidity and lemon zest dominate. Bronco Wine Company. —R.V. —R.V. Fragrant and very fruity, it has some extra structure abv: 12.5% Price: $19 abv: 12.5% Price: $25 to allow it to age. Drink from the end of 2014. Hand Picked Selections. —R.V. Gassier 2013 Sables d’Azur Rosé (Côtes de Château de l’Escarelle 2013 iPink Rosé (Co- abv: 12.5% Price: $23 85 Provence). The wine has a pretty salmon 86 teaux Varois en Provence). Created for the pink color, followed by a fruity, attractive taste. It American market, the wine has some softness while Les Vignobles Gueissard 2013 Cuvée G (Côtes is full of red fruits with a good layer of acidity that retaining intense fruitiness. It’s bright, light and 88 de Provence). From the coastal region gives extra freshness. The aftertaste is lively. Bronco very fresh, with just a touch of caramel at the end. around Bandol, this is a crisp, salty wine. It has the Wine Company. —R.V. Romano Brands. —R.V. brightest lemon fruits and some herbaceousness. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 The tangy texture needs to soften, so wait until the end of 2014 to drink. Winebow. —R.V. Listel 2013 Billette Bouquet de Provence Château Thuerry 2013 Les Abeillons Rosé abv: 12.5% Price: $15 85 Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Lightly fruity, it 85 (Coteaux Varois en Provence). The alcohol has crisp acidity and a touch of caramel. Fresh and on this wine is on the high side, giving a touch of Château Deffends 2012 White (Côtes de lively, it shows bright red fruits at the end. . Vran- pepper and bitterness to what is otherwise good 87 Provence). Some lemon-zest texture char- ken America. —R.V. bright fruit. With the weight, it needs to be drunk acterizes this otherwise rounded wine. It has good abv: 13.5% Price: $15 with food. Wines of Provence. —R.V. bright fruitiness, a hint of wood and full white fruit abv: 14% Price: $23 flavors. It needs to age, so drink from early 2015. Ravoire et Fils 2013 Domaine Fontanyl Rosé New France Wine Co. —R.V. 85 (Côtes de Provence). Light and fresh in its Estandon 2013 Terres de Saint-Louis Rosé abv: 13% Price: $15 skittle bottle, this is rosé for the beach and picnic. 84 (Coteaux Varois en Provence). The wine is Red currant fruitiness has been softened with a very crisp, but a tight, nervy and almost bitter acid- Domaine Houchart 2013 White (Côtes de caramel flavor. Saranty Imports. —R.V. ity cuts through and is almost shocking. Maybe it 87 Provence). This perfumed wine is rich, full abv: 12.5% Price: $NA will soften in a few months. Slocum & Sons, Inc. in the mouth while keeping plenty of fresh, crisp —R.V. citrus and pear flavors. It is ready to drink, but will Bailli de Provence 2013 Rosé (Côtes de abv: 12.5% Price: $12 be better in 2015. David Milligan Selections. —R.V. 84 Provence). The wine is soft and rounded, abv: 13% Price: $15 with red fruits that are lightly sweet and balancing acidity. A rich wine, it’s ready to drink. Tri-Vin Im- OTHER ROSÉS Commanderie de la Bargemone 2013 White ports. —R.V. 86 (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). An herbal, abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Domaine d’Astros 2013 Cuvée Prestige Rosé very crisp wine, it is unoaked and very bright. It’s 87 (Vin de Pays des Maures). Close to Saint- fresh, fruity, light in color and with citrus fruits Les Maîtres Vignerons de la Presqu’île de Tropez the vineyards of the Massif des Maures have running right through. Drink now. Hand Picked Se- 84 Saint-Tropez 2013 Cep d’Or Rosé (Côtes produced an attractively fruity wine that has an lections. —R.V. de Provence). Some barnyard flavors give a rustic unusual blending including the rare Caladoc grape. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 character. Fruit and acidity are there, leaving a wine Raspberry fruits are right up front, giving a bright, with a crisp aftertaste even if not losing the rougher ripe character. St Tropez Water LLC. —R.V. element. Jerome Selection. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 RED WINES abv: 13% Price: $NA Domaine de la Vallongue 2013 Lovely Rosé Château la Gordonne 2010 Verité du Terroir Château des Demoiselles 2013 Rosé (Côtes 85 (Alpilles). It was inevitable that a rosé 91 (Côtes de Provence). This ripe wine has jam- 83 de Provence). The barnyard aroma gives a would end up being called Lovely. In fact, the wine my red fruit flavors. The fruitiness is given struc- less than fresh feel. A bitter edge suppresses the is less lovely, more curious. It tastes herbaceous, ture by the stalky tannins and the dry, wood-aging red fruits, leaving a hard aftertaste. Vidalco Inter- crisp and green with strong citrus flavors that are flavors. Black cherries and juicy black currants national, LLC. —R.V. tangy and very intense. Garagiste Wine. Best Buy. show strongly. It needs to age, so drink from 2016. abv: 13% Price: $28 —R.V. Vranken America. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $9 abv: 13.5% Price: $20

COTEAUX VAROIS EN PROVENCE Domaine Houchart 2011 Red (Côtes de PROVENCE 90 Provence). With really ripe fruit and juicy Château Margüi 2013 Rosé (Coteaux Varois black flavors, this is a rounded, warm wine. It tastes 91 en Provence). Full of fresh raspberries, laced WHITE WINES of sun, although there is also something more seri- with red cherries and given a lift by the acidity and ously structured about it. Acidity gives freshness, Château la Gordonne 2013 Verité du Terroir while the tannic structure suggests further aging. 88 (Côtes de Provence). Fresh, aromatic and

18 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 Drink now, but better in 2015. David Milligan Se- and a complex, still-youthful texture. Drink from flavors, it’s already a pleasure to drink now. Quint- lections. Best Buy. —R.V. 2015. Planet Wine. —R.V. essential Wines. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $38 abv: 12.5% Price: $23

Les Vignobles Gueissard 2011 Cuvée G (Ban- Pierre Sparr 2011 Schoenenbourg Grand Cru Pierre Sparr 2012 Riesling (Alsace). A classi- 90 dol). With its blend that includes perfumed 91 Riesling (Alsace). For full review see page 8. 87 cally floral Riesling, it’s delicate yet intense- Mourvèdre, this is a solidly tannic while also aro- Cellar Selection. ly fruity. White fruits and a perfumed aftertaste matic wine. It tastes of the garrigue and wild plants abv: 13.5% Price: $45 give great freshness. Drink now. Wilson Daniels Ltd. that surround the vineyards, giving both tannin and —R.V. rich dark plum fruit flavors. It needs to age, so drink Domaines Schlumberger 2012 Les Princes abv: 12% Price: $NA from 2016. Winebow. —R.V. 89 Abbés Riesling (Alsace). A stylish wine, not abv: 14.5% Price: $25 quite bone dry but definitely heading in that direc- Domaine Albert Mann 2011 Cuvée Albert tion. Perfumed with crisp apple flavors, it also has a 86 Riesling (Alsace). A delicate, perfumed Ravoire et Fils 2011 Le Pont (Bandol). While steely, tight texture. It’s wonderfully fruity and ripe wine, it has aromas of white flowers and soft acid- 89 the wine is initially hard edged, it has po- while keeping total freshness. Drink from the end ity. Citrus fruitiness is balanced by the floral char- tential. Perfumed red fruits show strongly beneath of 2014. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. acter, giving a wine that is fresh, fragrant and ready the solid tannins and dense structure. It’s a concen- abv: 13% Price: $18 to drink. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. trated, aromatic wine that needs to age. Drink from abv: 13% Price: $27 2017. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Domaines Schlumberger 2011 Les Princes Ab- abv: 14% Price: $NA 89 bés Riesling (Alsace). This perfumed wine is Domaine Specht 2012 Riesling (Alsace). very dry but has delicious and fragrant fruitiness. A 85 Crisp and apple fruity, it’s dry and fresh Château de Calavon 2012 Tradition de Cala- slight steely character adds complexity and struc- with some steely acidity. A soft side lends a bright 87 von (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). The sec- ture. Made from biodynamically farmed grapes, it is aftertaste. Drink now. Tenzing Wine and Spirits. ond red of Château de Calavon, this wine is straight- ready to drink. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. forward, fruity and still young. It has ripe tannins, —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $NA acidity, broad red fruit flavors and a solid feel. It will abv: 12.5% Price: $18 be better in 2015. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. Cave de Beblenheim 2012 Baron de Hoen abv: 14% Price: $25 Henri Schoenheitz 2010 Herrenreben Ries- 84 Riesling (Alsace). A very floral wine, it 89 ling (Alsace). From cool, high-altitude shows a spicy side that brings out a character that is Château Margüi 2011 Titien de Margüi (Co- vines, this Riesling is aromatic and crisp with a not completely dry. It’s soft and rounded while still 87 teaux Varois en Provence). While rich, this hint of steel and plenty of freshness. Acidity cuts keeping some acidity. Drink now. The Other Wine & blend of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon is also quite through this already delicious, very fruity wine that Spirits. —R.V. herbal in character. Maybe it gets its nature from is about to move to maturity. Drink now. OZ Wine abv: 12.5% Price: $NA the wild garrigue countryside of Provence, but its Company. —R.V. tannins are firm and the fruit is laced with licorice. abv: 12% Price: $20 It should age another year. Michael Corso Selec- GEWURZTRAMINER tions. —R.V. Cave de Ribeauvillé 2012 Vieilles Vignes abv: 14.5% Price: $30 88 Réserve Riesling (Alsace). Old vines give ex- Gustave Lorentz 2010 Altenberg de Ber- tra concentration to this rich wine. With fruitiness, 92 gheim Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes Gewurztra- Ravoire et Fils 2012 Fontanyl (Côtes de a tight texture and the need to age, it has structure miner (Alsace). With rich apricot juice, sweet red 87 Provence). Perfumed and aromatic, this and density. Drink from 2015. Lynda Allison Cellar apples and a dry spiciness, it is complex and has ag- fruity red shows a good sense of structure. Flavors Selections. —R.V. ing potential. A mineral element in the texture em- include Mediterranean herbs redolent of lavender abv: 13% Price: $20 phasizes the dry yet rich nature of the wine. Drink as well as red plum, along with a dry core. The wine from 2015. Quintessential Wines. —R.V. is ready to drink. Saranty Imports. —R.V. Domaine Charles Frey 2011 Vieilles Vignes abv: 13.5% Price: $62 abv: 14% Price: $NA 88 Riesling (Alsace). Straw gold in color, this is a fragrant, delicately aromatic wine. Made from Domaine Charles Frey 2011 Clos St Sébastien Château Deffends 2012 Red (Côtes de organic fruit, it has pure white fruit and mineral 89 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). This sweet wine 85 Provence). Black plum fruits start this wine flavors that are cut with intense youthful acidity. It is full of lychee fruit and the lightest touch of acidi- on a good basis. But the hard tannins and medici- needs to develop, so wait to drink until 2016. Good ty. It’s on the light side and has freshness and a crisp nal character are not pleasant. It might improve by Company Wines. —R.V. edge, bringing out baked apple as well as peaches 2015. New France Wine Co. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 and a final lightly honeyed texture. Drink now. Good abv: 13% Price: $15 Company Wines. —R.V. Domaine Specht 2012 Mandelberg Grand Cru abv: 12.5% Price: $35 88 Riesling (Alsace). Still young and aromatic, ALSACE this concentrated apple and pear flavored wine also Domaine Albert Mann 2011 Gewurztraminer has a strongly mineral character. It is laced with in- 87 (Alsace). A simple, intensely perfume wine, RIESLING tense acidity that gives bite to the texture. It needs over-the-top in its spice and lychee flavors. It con- aging, so don’t drink before 2017. Tenzing Wine and veys a wallop of fruit and a rounded structure. Drink Cave de Ribeauvillé 2010 Osterberg Grand Spirits. —R.V. this generous wine now. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. 91 Cru Riesling (Alsace). A perfumed, aromatic abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 14% Price: $14 wine, dry yet full of fresh, fragrant white fruit fla- vors. A steely edge is followed by hints of currants Gustave Lorentz 2012 Réserve Riesling (Al- Gustave Lorentz 2012 Réserve Gewurztramin- 87 sace). This is a fruity, lightly mineral and 87 er (Alsace). Balancing fruit and ripe spice, it fresh wine. With pure and crisp apple and lemon merits a place at the table rather than just serving

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as an apéritif. It has peach, lychee and a just off-dry lychee flavors that are developing well. Concentrat- honeyed with ripe yellow fruits. Soft and spicy, it’s character that allows for acidity. Drink now Quint- ed and dense, it will be best in late 2014. Quintes- already attractive to drink, although waiting until essential Wines. —R.V. sential Wines. —R.V. late 2014 would make it better. The Other Wine & abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $35 Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA Domaine Charles Frey 2012 Collines de Gra- Pierre Sparr 2011 Mambourg Grand Cru Pi- 86 nit Gewurztraminer (Alsace). An exuberant, 89 not Gris (Alsace). A sweet Gewurz, full of Domaine Specht 2012 Pinot Gris (Alsace). A perfumed wine that is full of lychee and candy fla- quince, lychee, honey, spice and a light touch of 85 medium-dry wine that is soft, fresh and full vors. It has spice, soft acidity and a light, bright feel. acidity. Ripe and full bodied, it shows tropical fla- of apple and peach fruits. The acidity, surprisingly Drink now. Good Company Wines. —R.V. vors, a touch of acidity and a full and rounded af- strong for a Pinot Gris, gives a fruity feel, suggesting abv: 12% Price: $28 tertaste. This wine will become richer as it ages; it’s structure while keeping it light. Not for aging, drink almost ready to drink, but will be better after 2015. now. Tenzing Wine and Spirits. —R.V. Henri Schoenheitz 2012 Gewurztraminer (Al- Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA 86 sace). Typically spicy, this wine is all about abv: 13% Price: $NA intense perfumes. Very soft, ripe and rounded, it Henri Schoenheitz 2011 Holder Pinot Gris (Al- will be better as a sweet apéritif than with food. OZ Domaines Schlumberger 2012 Les Princes 85 sace). This is a sweet Pinot Gris (thankfully Wine Company. —R.V. 88 Abbés Pinot Gris (Alsace). A big, ripe and indicated on the back label). It is soft, gently fruity abv: 12.5% Price: $20 spicy wine, it also has plenty of fruit to balance and spicy without great depth of flavor. The light plus a drier structure at its center. Just a hint of ly- acidity helps give shape to a wine that is ready to Pierre Sparr 2012 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). chee plus a rounded texture make it full bodied but drink. OZ Wine Company. —R.V. 86 On the dry side, it shows spice and dried never heavy. Drink from the end of 2014. Maisons abv: 13% Price: $25 fruits. Smooth, ripe and very aromatic, it’s an apéri- Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. tif wine with its light texture. Drink now. Wilson abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Daniels Ltd. —R.V. PINOT BLANC abv: 13% Price: $NA Domaines Schlumberger 2011 Les Princes 88 Abbés Pinot Gris (Alsace). Smooth and ripe, Domaines Schlumberger 2012 Les Princes Cave de Beblenheim 2012 Baron de Hoen this is a concentrated while elegant wine. It has 88 Abbés Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Ripe and 85 Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Over-the-top hints of fresh yellow fruits along with spiced rai- smooth, it has just the right touch of fresh lemon spice, with a nod to lychee fruits, gives the feeling sins and a touch of cinnamon. Full in the mouth, to lift the rounded, lightly spicy flavors. Warm and of drinking liquid candy. This medium-sweet wine it is ready to drink. Maisons Marques & Domaines balanced, it’s ready to drink. Maisons Marques & needs no aging. The Other Wine & Spirits. —R.V. USA. —R.V. Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $14

Domaine Specht 2012 Gewurztraminer (Al- Domaine Albert Mann 2011 Rosenberg Pinot Domaines Schlumberger 2011 Les Princes Ab- 84 sace). Very spicy, this soft and rounded 87 Gris (Alsace). A warmly perfumed wine, it 87 bés Pinot Blanc (Alsace). While this wine is wine comes packed with lychee and quince flavors. has all the aromatic characters of Pinot Gris, round- dry, the spice and creamy, ripe texture give a warm, There is a pepper element to the wine and a gentle ed and soft with only a few hints of acidity. Off-dry, rich feel. It has weight, baked apple fruit and a spicy aftertaste. Drink now. Tenzing Wine and Spir- it is ready to drink. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. touch of spice. Ready to drink. Maisons Marques & its. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $26 Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $14 Jean-Baptiste Adam 2012 Tradition Pinot 87 Gris (Alsace). A spicy wine that unfolds with Henri Schoenheitz 2011 Val Saint Grégoire Pi- PINOT GRIS a gentle texture, touches of lychee and pear and 87 not Blanc (Alsace). Smooth, ripe and round- fruitiness. It has richness rather than sweetness, ed, it’s ready to drink with its light perfume and Domaine Albert Mann 2010 Furstentum finishing with a light touch of acidity. Wine Man- spice. Rich pear and quince fruits add freshness to 93 Grand Cru Pinot Gris (Alsace). Rich, full bod- ager, LLC. —R.V. the fullness. Drink now. OZ Wine Company. —R.V. ied and medium dry, it is powered by ripe fruits, abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $18 lychees and pomegranates. A spicy undertow brings along some acidity to this concentrated wine. Drink Pierre Sparr 2012 Pinot Gris (Alsace). Only Cave de Beblenheim 2012 Baron de Hoen from 2016. Weygandt-Metzler. Editors’ Choice. 87 lightly spicy, it has a smooth texture and a 86 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). Young and spicy, it’s —R.V. fruity peach character. It is off dry, but tastes drier all fruitiness with just a light amount of acidity. It’s abv: 14% Price: $34 because of the light spice. The acidity helps give smooth with yellow fruit and pear flavors. Ready freshness. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. to drink by the end of the 2014. The Other Wine & Domaine Albert Mann 2010 Hengst Grand Cru abv: 13% Price: $NA Spirits. —R.V. 91 Pinot Gris (Alsace). A medium sweet wine, it abv: 12% Price: $NA is full of ripe tropical fruits. It has a rounded tex- Domaine Charles Frey 2012 Cuvée de l’Ours ture, generous and opulent in feel with an intense, 86 Pinot Gris (Alsace). A light style of Pinot Jean-Baptiste Adam 2012 Tradition Pinot concentrated structure. Spicy and warm, it needs Gris it conveys as much fruit as spice. From the dry 86 Blanc (Alsace). Ripe and lightly spicy, this several years to rdevelop. Drink from 2016. Wey- end of the spectrum, it shows light acidity, pear and rounded wine has attractive pear and quince flavors gandt-Metzler. —R.V. quince fruits and a tight texture. Drink from 2015. filling out the light texture. Drink now. Wine Man- abv: 14% Price: $34 Good Company Wines. —R.V. ager, LLC. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Gustave Lorentz 2011 Schofweg Pinot Gris 89 (Alsace). This single-vineyard wine, round- Cave de Beblenheim 2012 Baron de Hoen Pi- Pierre and Charles Sparr 2011 Cuvée Tradi- ed and rich, is smooth, spicy and full of quince and 85 not Gris (Alsace). A medium-sweet wine, it’s 86 tion Pinot Blanc (Alsace). This is an unusu-

20 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 ally toasty Pinot Blanc. Wood flavors add another Pierre and Charles Sparr NV Comte de Rinken dimension but cover the natural spice and fruit of 86 Blanc de Blancs Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). SPAIN the grape. —R.V. This is only Brut in name, because it is actually a abv: 12.5% Price: $NA medium-sweet wine that maintains pear freshness. WHITE WINES It’s ripe, full in the mouth and ready to drink. —R.V. Pierre Sparr 2012 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). A abv: 12.5% Price: $14 RÍAS BAIXAS 86 very fruity, floral wine, it’s lightly spicy while showing white fruits and citrus right up front. Pierre Sparr NV Brut Réserve (Crémant Zarate 2011 El Palomar Albariño (Rías Baix- It is dry but the fruitiness gives the wine a lively 86 d’Alsace). Lively and fresh, it is full of 90 as). Zarate is known for its late-release, feel and a soft aftertaste. Drink now. Wilson Daniels mousse and ripe peach and pear fruits. It has acid- leesy Albariños balanced by shearing acidity. El Ltd. —R.V. ity, a light touch of sweetness and a hint of bottle Palomar is cut from that cloth; it shows baked ap- abv: 12% Price: $NA age. Drink now as an apéritif, but it is better with ple, oak and warmth on the nose, while the palate food. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. is razor sharp, with clean-cutting acidity. Flavors of Domaine Specht 2012 Pinot Blanc (Alsace). abv: 12.5% Price: $NA vanilla and toast mix with spice and citrus, while 82 Light and neutral, it has some fresh fruit but the finish is long and woody, but not resiny or thick. there is an artificial candy juice feel to the acidity. Pierre Sparr NV Brut Rosé (Crémant Drink through 2015. Domaine Select Wine Estates. Tenzing Wine and Spirits. —R.V. 86 d’Alsace). An extremely lively mousse gives —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $NA this wine an instant festive character. It also bright- abv: 13% Price: $60 ens the already fresh, crisp red berry fruits and acidity. It’s totally ready to drink. Wilson Daniels Abadía de Tortoreos 2011 Albariño (Rías WHITE BLENDS Ltd. —R.V. 89 Baixas). Mango, citrus and candied white- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA fruit aromas set up a weighty yet vital palate with Cave de Ribeauvillé 2010 Clos du Zahnacker melon, apple, citrus and gooseberry flavors. On the 90 (Alsace). From a parcel in the Osterberg Pierre and Charles Sparr NV Cuvée Renais- finish, mellow flavors of stone fruits and mild acid- Grand Cru vineyard, this is a blend of Riesling, Pi- 85 sance Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). Made from ity create a pure, solid ending. Drink immediately. not Gris and Gewurztraminer. The spice dominates Pinot Blanc, this wine is ripe yet still fresh and Table 31 Imports. —M.S. although it is cut through by Riesling acidity. It’s fruity. Sweet apples reinforce the generally off-dry abv: 13% Price: $19 not quite integrated, showing youthful exuberance nature. Acidity and an attractive steely aftertaste that needs to settle down. Drink from 2016. Planet add balance. —R.V. Pazo de Señorans 2006 Selección de Añada Wine. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA 89 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Given that this leesy abv: 14.5% Price: $NA Albariño is pushing eight years in age, it’s remark- Pierre and Charles Sparr NV Rosé Cuvée Re- ably healthy. Stony, briny aromas override residual Pierre Sparr 2012 One (Alsace). This off-dry 83 naissance Brut (Crémant d’Alsace). A lively fruit aromas, while the palate remains zesty. Flavors 85 wine is fresh, light and fruity. Bright pear wine that has flavors of toast as well as red fruits. of white grapefruit and nectarine finish citric and and quince flavors are given a boost by great acid- It is not completely dry, with a soft, sweet aftertaste solid. This is a unique style of wine that no other ity, spice and a light touch of mineral texture. Drink that has masked the acidity. Gusto Group. —R.V. winery in Rías Baixas is making. European Cellars. now. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $75

Cave de Ribeauvillé 2011 Andante (Alsace). PINOT NOIR Fillaboa 2011 Selección Finca Monte Alto 84 This blend of Muscat and Gewurztraminer 88 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Gold in color, with is all spiciness. It has peach freshness as well with Henri Schoenheitz 2011 Cuvée Saint Grégoire mineral, toast, baked apple and stone-fruit aromas, just a touch of honey. It’s immediately attractive. 86 Pinot Noir (Alsace). Spicy and fruity, this this Albariño is plump and mature on the palate. Lynda Allison Cellar Selections. —R.V. is a lightweight, attractive and smooth wine. It has Flavors of peach, papaya and minerals finish long abv: 13.5% Price: $18 some undergrowth aromas, followed by red berry and peachy, with baked apple and minerally notes fruits, with fresh acidity at the end. Drink now. OZ to the finish. This is showing its age; drink immedi- Wine Company. —R.V. ately or wait for the 2012. Folio Fine Wine Partners. CRÉMANT D’ALSACE abv: 13.5% Price: $25 —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $25 Domaine Albert Mann 2010 Brut (Crémant Domaine Charles Frey 2012 Harmonie Pinot 90 d’Alsace). A full-bodied, deliciously ripe 85 Noir (Alsace). Lightly perfumed, this is a Granbazán 2010 Don Álvaro de Bazán Al- blend of Pinot Blanc, Auxerrois and Pinot Noir, this soft and fruity wine with red cherry flavors that are 88 bariño (Rías Baixas). This mature Albariño is spiced with apples and crisp grapefruit acidity. round and balanced. A touch of vanilla and spice is mellow on the nose, then wide and melony in feel. Rich and creamy yet fresh, it is ready to drink. Wey- adds extra interest. Drink now. Good Company It’s leesy but also healthy in terms of acidity, with gandt-Metzler. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. Wines. —R.V. flavors of papaya, melon and peach. It’s flavorful for abv: 12.5% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $35 sure, but a touch bland on the finish. Europvin USA. —M.S. Henri Schoenheitz NV Brut (Crémant Pierre and Charles Sparr 2011 Cuvée Tradition abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 87 d’Alsace). Attractive and fruity, it has a live- 84 Pinot Noir (Alsace). Light in color, this is a ly mousse and refreshing apple flavors. Crisp and tight, cherry fruited wine with fruit that seems un- Ferrum 2011 Albariño (Rías Baixas). Aromas bright, it’s ready to drink as a delicious apéritif. OZ derripe. It’s almost rosé in feel with just a leather 87 include dry apricot and papaya with a hint Wine Company. —R.V. and tannin underlay to give it structure. Drink now. of cider. This is on the soft side in feel, with dilution abv: 12% Price: $20 Gusto Group. —R.V. along with apple-based acidity. Flavors of nectarine abv: 13% Price: $18 and peach finish monotone. Drink immediately or

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wait for a fresher 2012 version. USA Wine West. Valdelainos 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). Lime, foods, salads and as an apéritif. Jorge Ordoñez Se- —M.S. 89 tarragon and fresh green aromas are a bit lections. —M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 minerally and stony in front of a linear, pure pal- abv: 14% Price: $18 ate. Flavors of lemon-lime, peach and nectarine are Zarate 2010 Balado Albariño (Rías Baixas). just right, moderately minerally and fade away with Telmo Rodríguez 2011 Sierras de Málaga 86 With a gold color and heavy, pithy aromas clarity and style. Drink right away. Grapes of Spain. 87 Blanco (Málaga). Rubber band, almond skin that are becoming oxidized, this is a mature, highly Best Buy. —M.S. and dry citrus aromas feed into a tight, raw, rubbery stylized Albariño. It’s also a touch flat, with flavors abv: 13% Price: $14 feeling palate with a low fruit quotient and more of bitter citrus and nectarine pit. Overall this is brine and bitterness than expected. This is quite more leesy and mature than vital and outwardly de- Emina 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). Stony cit- dry, salty and pithy but also fresh and lively on the licious. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S. 87 rus aromas blend with green notes and finish. Drink immediately. Vintus LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $60 lees-based vanilla. This is lean and citrusy on the abv: 14% Price: $25 tongue, with nectarine, citrus and green-herb fla- Lusco 2010 Pazo Piñeiro Albariño (Rías Baix- vors. A zesty finish is a bit shallow, but overall this 85 as). Minerally aromas of vitamins take the fresh wine is easy to like. Matarromera USA, Inc. OTHER DRY WHITE WINES lead on this aging Albariño. In the mouth, it loses Best Buy. —M.S. clarity and becomes wayward, while flavors of pithy abv: 12.5% Price: $11 Palacios Remondo 2009 Plácet Viura peach show a distinct bitterness, especially on the 90 (Rioja). This barrel-aged Viura shows the finish. This is good but past its prime. Opici Wines. Circe 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). Peach and nec- upside of what is normally a pretty ordinary grape —M.S. 86 tarine aromas are only slightly minerally. variety. Melon, apple, hay and minerally aromas are abv: 13.5% Price: $52 The wine is spritzy and straightforward on the pal- lively and don’t seem nearly five years along. The ate, with lightly candied flavors of lime, pineapple palate is smooth, with vital acidity and creamy fla- and mango. A finish with a touch of green suggests vors of melon and apple. Complexity and elegance BIERZO mild residual sugar. Drink before 2015. Axial Wines come up on a spicy, white-pepper finish. Drink now. USA. —M.S. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S. Gancedo 2012 Capricho Val de Pazariñas abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $45 86 Godello (Bierzo). Melony aromas are soft and friendly. This has youthful spritz to the palate Terra do Castelo 2012 Godello (Ribeiro). and candied, tropical flavors of mango and dried, COSTERS DEL SEGRE 90 This Godello is light, fruity and offers nice sweet pineapple. A sweet, citrusy character runs lime and apple aromas. It’s linear, minerally and has onto the finish, which goes pithy as it peters out. Mas Blanch I Jové 2011 Saó Blanc Macabeo a true slate feel, then stony flavors of tangerine and The Artisan Collection. —M.S. 87 (Costers del Segre). Waxy aromas of baked ripe peach take over. A juicy, pure finish tops it off. abv: 13% Price: $22 apple and spices come in front of a full-bodied pal- Hand Picked Selections. —M.S. ate supported by citric acidity. Flavors of orange abv: 12.5% Price: $19 Godelia 2012 Godello-Doña Blanca (Bierzo). and nectarine are honeyed, while the finish starts 84 Heavy white-fruit aromas have an almost out big then stumbles on the backside. Drink this Pedro Escudero 2013 Fuente Milano Verdejo- “canned” quality. This is more like citrus juice than Macabeo-led blend now. Aviva Vino. —M.S. 88 Viura (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). defined white wine, with hugely ripe tropical and abv: 14% Price: $25 With minerally, clean aromas of lemon-lime and citrus flavors culminating in creamy weight. This is seashell, this is ready for summer sipping. A tangy, 80% Godello and 20% Doña Blanca. Europvin USA. Clos Pons 2012 Sisquella (Costers del Segre). citric palate offers pure orange, tangerine and lime —M.S. 85 Banana, doughy pastry and flowery notes flavors, with mango thrown in for moderate sweet- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 define the nose on this oily blend of Garnacha Blan- ness. A citrusy, cleansing palate is exactly as it ca and other white grapes. This feels chunky and should be. Grapes of Spain. Best Buy. —M.S. Godelia 2011 Selección Godello (Bierzo). grabby but also citrusy; flavors of orange and melon abv: 12.5% Price: $11 83 Gold in color, it has a nose that comes on finish heavy, with a bracing shot of citric acid. RMB strong with sweet peach, melon, tropical fruit and Imports. —M.S. Adrás 2012 Godello (Ribeira Sacra). A citrusy barrel aromas. The palate shows over-the-top fla- abv: 13.5% Price: $14 87 nose revolves around lime and pineapple. vors of ultraripe, almost canned-tasting white fruits This is citrusy to the point of pulpy on the palate, backed by a thick, honeyed finish. Europvin USA. Clos Pons 2011 Roc de Foc Macabeo (Costers with nectarine and grapefruit flavors that eventu- —M.S. 83 del Segre). Oxidized aromas of caramelized ally run out of steam on a finish that winds up pithy. abv: 14% Price: $28 nuts lead to a soft palate with little pulse. Flavors of Grapes of Spain. —M.S. creamy tropical fruits hold onto the wine’s oxidized abv: 12.5% Price: $19 quality, while the finish is flabby and briny in flavor. RUEDA RMB Imports. —M.S. Viñas del Vero 2012 Colección Gewürztra- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 83 miner (Somontano). Floral, exotic aromas Montespina 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). Fresh recall bath oil and incense. This is creamy and low 90 apple and lime aromas are pure as can be. on snap, with candied flavors of cured ham, fennel This is chiseled, crisp and crystalline in the mouth, MÁLAGA and tarragon. It finishes tropical tasting but flabby. with lime, grapefruit and other citrus flavors. A San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. long, firm, flavorful finish brings a slight hint of cit- Jorge Ordoñez & Co. 2012 Botani Dry Muscat abv: 13% Price: $15 rus pith the longer it runs out. Axial Wines USA. 89 (Málaga). Stony lime and apple aromas are —M.S. a proper set up to a balanced, racy palate. Flavors abv: 13% Price: $16 of dried apple, tropical fruits and pithy bitterness finish with white pepper notes and purity. This isn’t complex but it will get the job done with Asian

22 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 with crispness and focus. Flavors of peach and mild SWEET WINES citrus are slightly briny. Valkyrie Selections. —M.S. ROSÉS abv: 12% Price: $NA Jorge Ordoñez & Co. 2012 Victoria 2 Moscatel CVNE 2012 Cune Rosado (Rioja). The nose 91 (Málaga). On this medium-bodied, sweet Alta Alella 2011 Privat Rosé Brut Nature 86 on this pink-tinted rosé is mostly fresh, Moscatel, the tangerine peel and lychee aromas re- 88 (Cava). The nose on this no-dosage rosé is with hints of talcum powder and strawberry. The quire airing to get beyond the basics. Mango, melon neutral except for a touch of brine and nuttiness. palate is starting to fade a bit, with heft and grab- and lychee are the lead flavors, while the finish is The palate is fresh, sharp and a touch rough. Flavors biness setting in. Cherry is the key flavor, while the peachy and easy, with richness but nothing cloy- of dried red fruits are matched by briny notes and finish is weighty. Drink immediately or wait for the ing. Drink through 2018. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. popcorn, while the finish tastes toasty and briny. 2013. Europvin USA. —M.S. —M.S. Palateur Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 10% Price: $25/375 ml abv: 12% Price: $21 Marqués de Cáceres 2013 Rosé (Rioja). Cher- Jorge Ordoñez & Co. 2011 Selección Especial Alta Alella 2010 Laietà Privat Gran Reserva 86 ry and raspberry aromas are fresh, clean 88 1 Moscatel (Málaga). Dust, lime, lychee, 88 Brut Nature (Cava). Peach, melon, citrus and simple. A juicy, direct palate brings cherry and thyme and oregano aromas create a complex bou- and yeasty notes define the nose on this dry brut plum skin flavors with citric acid for cleansing pur- quet. It is round in texture but also juicy due to core nature. This offers good texture, fluffy carbonation poses. This rosé is the definition of a simple sum- acidity. Flavors of lychee, melon and spiced apple and citrusy acidity in front of papaya, dry mango, mer quaffer. Vineyard Brands.Best Buy. —M.S. rest on a full body. Finishing notes of herbs and nectarine and peach flavors. The finish is fruity in abv: 13.5% Price: $9 tropical fruits are fresh and appealing. Jorge Or- flavor and citrusy in feel. Palateur Imports. —M.S. doñez Selections. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $35 Rio Madre 2012 Graciano Rosè (Rioja). With abv: 10% Price: $18 85 an electric pink color, this Graciano-based Llopart 2010 Brut Reserva Rosé (Cava). rosado is a touch watery up front, with watermelon Telmo Rodríguez 2008 Molino Real Mosca- 88 Dusty, yeasty aromas of red apple skins, and cherry aromas. The palate is turning heavy as it 88 tel (Málaga). Aromas of burnt orange peel, cherry and chocolate lead to a solid and true palate ages, while candied berry flavors finish sweet and apricot, cinnamon and clove are accented by wild with a good bubble bead, moderate elegance and full sugary, with just enough acidity to keep it afloat. herb and nettle scents. This is full, resiny and bor- flavors of plum, red apple, cherry and spice. This is Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best Buy. —M.S. derline cloying in feel, while flavors of blow-torched full-bodied Cava with a smooth, robust finish. Jorge abv: 13.5% Price: $10 caramel, peach, dried mango and oak finish honeyed Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. and spicy, but also bitter. Drink this amber, mature abv: 11.5% Price: $24 Bodegas del Mundo 2012 Valdemoreda Gar- wine now. Vintus LLC. —M.S. 84 nacha Rosé (Rioja). While this wine is fast abv: 13.5% Price: $60/500 ml Marques de Gelida 2010 Brut Reserva losing steam and zip, what remains revolves around 88 Ecològic (Cava). Light, yeasty aromas are a soft palate and strawberry and nectarine flavors. Jorge Ordoñez & Co. 2012 Selección Especial 1 not overly fruity but they are clean and approach- The finish is holding steady while showing some 87 Moscatel (Málaga). Initially this wine is flat able. It’s fruity and plump on the palate, with nec- bitterness. Best to wait for the 2013. CIV/USA. Best and a bit chemical on the nose, but with time lime tarine, apricot and mild citrus flavors. A smooth, Buy. —M.S. and tropical fruit aromas poke through. The mouth- moderately creamy finish is comfortable and easy- abv: 13% Price: $8 feel is round but a little bland and broken up, while going. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. flavors of yeasty, bready tropical fruits and apple- abv: 12% Price: $20 Cruz de Piedra 2013 Garnacha Rosé (Cala- sauce finish easy but flabby. Jorge Ordoñez Selec- 84 tayud). Chewing gum, plum and raspberry tions. —M.S. Muga 2010 Conde de Haro Brut (Cava). Cava aromas are raw and suggestive of grape skins. The abv: 10% Price: $18 88 from Rioja may not compute but it’s defi- wine is juicy but without much body or spine. Fla- nitely an approved category of sparkling wine. This vors of generic red fruits and watermelon finish is minerally and smells a lot like vitamins. The pal- rubbery and slightly bitter. Drink in 2014. Axial SPARKLING WINES ate is round, moderately foamy and wide. Flavors of Wines USA. Best Buy. —M.S. passion fruit, papaya and nectarine finish smooth, abv: 13.5% Price: $8 Marques de Gelida 2009 Claror Gran Reserva with an easy bubble bead. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. 90 Brut Nature (Cava). For full review see page —M.S. Carlos Serres 2012 Serres Tempranillo-Garna- 9. abv: 12.5% Price: $26 83 cha Rosé (Rioja). With an orange leaning to abv: 12% Price: $31 its pink tint, this is struggling to maintain its fruit Marques de Gelida 2010 Brut Reserva Rosé and freshness. Flavors of peach and apricot pits Alta Alella 2009 Opus Evolutium Privat Gran 87 (Cava). Dusty red-fruit aromas set up an finish round and soft. Testa Wines Of The World. 89 Reserva Brut Nature (Cava). White fruits, easy, likable palate with a mix of citrus and briny —M.S. fennel and Serrano ham aromas create a sophisti- apple flavors. There’s good tang and acidity along abv: 12.5% Price: $10 cated bouquet. This jabs away on the palate cour- with length to the finish. That briny character from tesy of citric acidity, while flavors of nectarine and the flavor profile comes back on the finish. Jorge Or- Bodegas Valdemar 2013 Rosado (Rioja). citrus are good. It finishes dry and foamy. Palateur doñez Selections. —M.S. 82 Apple skin and generic berry aromas lead Imports. —M.S. abv: 12% Price: $18 to a tangy, thin palate with little substance. Flavors abv: 12% Price: $46 include citrus and cranberry, with a green note. A Mas Fi NV Brut Rosé (Cava). Red-fruit aro- finish of scouring acidity and residual tang makes Raventós I Blanc 2011 Conca del Riu Anoia 85 mas suggest plum and raspberry with a this fresh but nothing more. CIV/USA. —M.S. 89 Barcelona de Nit (Spain). Dusty, yeasty dusty covering. This is decidedly foamy and heavy, abv: 13% Price: $10 citrus aromas are elegant, smoky and dry. In the with loud flavors of red berries that finish chunky mouth, it is well developed and a touch short, but and a touch salty. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S. Bodegas Valdemar 2012 Rosado (Rioja). abv: 11.5% Price: $12 82 Wilting apricot and nectarine aromas are

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pithy and lead to a dying palate. Flavors of citrus blackberry, chocolate, pepper and a spot of salty mas on this ripe RDD. In the mouth, choppy tannins rind and papaya show some acidic kick, while the brine. A toasty, dark, heady finish confirms the and firm acids create a strong, edgy feel. Flavors of finish is tropical in flavor and fading. Wait for the overall quality. Drink through 2020. Habarcelo cassis, wild berry, coconut and vanilla announce 2013. CIV/USA. —M.S. North America. —M.S. ripeness and plenty of oak. It finishes with abrupt abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 14.5% Price: $30 tannins, tons of residual flavor and weight. Drink now through 2021. The Country Vintner-Craft and Arrocal 2012 Rosa de Arrocal Rosé (Ribera del Campo Alegre 2011 Toro. Robust black-fruit Estate. —M.S. 81 Duero). Spiced berry and plum aromas are 90 aromas of berry and cassis come with a abv: 14.8% Price: $85 holding in there. This is blatantly acidic and citric, mild animal note and leathery scents. This is jammy with cranberry and raspberry flavors that finish tart and a bit loud in terms of mouthfeel, while flavors of Telmo Rodríguez 2007 Matallana (Ribera del before falling off. Grapes of Spain. —M.S. raisin, berry and chocolate finish meaty and loamy. 92 Duero). Nearly seven years after harvest, it abv: 13% Price: $14 Drink through 2017. Diageo Chateau & Estates. remains lively and vital. Pointed aromas of lemony —M.S. oak, pencil lead and cassis are classy and a touch Bodegas Valdemar 2013 Conde de Valde- abv: 15% Price: $40 earthy. This is balanced in feel, but with penty of 81 mar Rosado (Rioja). Aromas include jammy gas in the tank. Roasted, warm flavors of berry, strawberry and grassy green beans. The wine is lean Telmo Rodríguez 2012 g Dehesa Gago (Toro). plum, spice, herbs and pepper finish firm, with co- in the mouth, with tart citrus and green-leaning 88 Minerally black plum and boysenberry aro- coa and nutmeg notes that introduce secondary to- red-fruit flavors. It finishes without complexity. mas set up a rubbery palate with medium weight bacco and earth accents. Drink through 2019. Vin- CIV/USA. —M.S. and intensity. Generic but happy flavors of black- tus LLC. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $12 berry and cassis finish with dry spice and rubbery abv: 14.5% Price: $147 notes as well as length and freshness. Vintus LLC. La Granja 360 2013 Garnacha Rosé (Cari- —M.S. Dominio de Atauta 2009 Valdegatiles (Ribera 80 ñena). Stalky aromas of salad dressing and abv: 14% Price: $18 91 del Duero). Jammy berry aromas are fiery and vinegar are offputting. The wine is clumsy and loud aggressive. In the mouth, this is sticky in feel, with on the palate, with sour plum and bitter, stalky fla- Viña Mayor 2012 Vendimia Seleccionada huge, grabbing tannins and blocky ripeness. Choco- vors. A zesty but blocky finish does not help. Axial 88 (Toro). Tarry upfront aromas of berry late and vanilla drape overripe black-fruit flavors, Wines USA. —M.S. fruits, pencil lead and shoe polish announce plenty while the finish is heavy, chewy and tastes like abv: 13.5% Price: $4 of oak. The mouthfeel on this young Toro is full and fudge. Drink this forceful, oaky RDD now through grabby, while flavors of blackberry, oak and related 2020. Aviva Vino. —M.S. Monte Clavijo 2012 Tempranillo-Garnacha mint finish peppery and blackened, with residual abv: 14.7% Price: $125 80 Rosé (Rioja). This is strained and stalky on minty oak. Habarcelo North America. —M.S. the nose. It has a rubbery feel and tastes stalky and abv: 14.5% Price: $18 O. Fournier 2008 Alfa Spiga (Ribera del Du- bitter, with a sour finish. Total Wine & More. —M.S. 91 ero). Ripe blackberry, graphite and tobacco abv: 12% Price: $12 Toriles 2012 Toro. Rubbery dark-fruit aromas aromas become oakier with airing, making resin, va- 87 of black cherry and berry come with a whiff nilla and mocha notes rise up. The wine is lush and of latex and Band-Aid. This is high-toned and edgy weighty in the mouth, with loamy, baked flavors of SPAIN in feel, with gritty blackberry and dark cherry fla- black fruits, raisin, herbs and chocolate. A smooth, vors. Plum, berry and acidic freshness drive the fin- textured finish is home to licorice and sweet berry RED WINES ish on this basic but well-made Toro. Axial Wines flavors. Drink now through 2017. The Country Vint- USA. —M.S. ner-Craft and Estate. —M.S. TORO abv: 14.5% Price: $14 abv: 14.5% Price: $45

Teso La Monja 2011 Alabaster (Toro). For full Cermeño 2012 Vindimia Seleccionada Vega Sicilia 2003 Unico (Ribera del Duero). 95 review see page 3. Cellar Selection. 86 (Toro). Spunky raspberry and citrus aromas 91 Hailing from the hottest vintage in years, this abv: 14.5% Price: $220 come with an herbal kick. This is juicy, rubbery and is round, rubbery and showing sweet, rooty aromas slightly astringent in feel, with red plum, cherry and of root beer, cola, mocha and stewed plum. Dense Teso La Monja 2011 Victorino (Toro). Dense medicinal cough drop flavors. A dry, leafy, minty but soft, it has rubbery, savory flavors of barbecue 93 intitial aromas suggest rubber on top of finish is fresh albeit raw and woody. Beacon Wine sauce, herbal plum, tomato and carob. An earthy, blackberry. In the mouth, this Tempranillo is deep Company. —M.S. loamy, chunky finish offers tobacco and baking spice as a trench, with layering and firm tannins. Flavors abv: 14.5% Price: $12 accents. Drink through 2020. Europvin USA. —M.S. of toasty oak, blackberry, coconut and herbs dance abv: 14% Price: $450 together like a world-class ballet troupe, while the finish is textured, toasty and loaded with power. RIBERA DEL DUERO Viña Mayor 2008 Reserva (Ribera del Du- Drink from 2015–2021. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. 91 ero). Meaty, rubbery aromas of berry fruits Cellar Selection. —M.S. Alion 2009 Ribera del Duero. Blueberry, come with hints of minty green and lemony oak. abv: 14.5% Price: $63 92 savory plum and lemony oak are the key This feels wide and tannic on the palate, with ripe, aromas on this firmly structured RDD. Flavors of oaky flavors of berry, cassis, vanilla and licorice. A Teso La Monja 2011 Almirez (Toro). For full blackened toast, blackberry, pepper and creamy oak creamy palate is healthy and completes the wine in 92 review see page 7. finish pure, strong and long, with mint, licorice and fine fashion; drink through 2020. Habarcelo North abv: 14.5% Price: $26 chocolaty residual notes. Drink through 2022. Eu- America. —M.S. ropvin USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Viña Mayor 2011 Vendimia Seleccionada abv: 14.5% Price: $90 91 (Toro). Ripe blackberry and cassis aromas Monteabellón 2009 Finca La Blanquera (Ri- are pure and lusty. In the mouth, it shows chewy O. Fournier 2008 Ribera del Duero. Cool ber- 90 bera del Duero). This tiny production (250 tannins, a stout structure and generous flavors of 92 ry, graphite, cola and prune are the lead aro- cases), single-vineyard wine is boisterous on the

24 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 nose, with pushy aromas of violet petal, earthy ber- and vital, but subdued. Tobacco, vanilla and baking- toasted and tangy finish is full of life but falls short ry, cleaning solution and citrusy oak. Pronounced spice scents ride on top of mature berry aromas. A on complexity and depth. Quintessential Wines. acidity and a raw, resiny oak texture give a hard, rubbery, healthy mouthfeel is round and showing —M.S. choppy feel, while flavors of cheese, coconut, vanilla pulse, while flavors of baked berry fruits, spice and abv: NA Price: $25 and raspberry announce a warm-vintage wine. On cocoa finish dry, earthy and composed. Drink this the finish, excess acidity and abrasive tannins call mature Rioja now through 2018. Vintage Wines Inc. Conde de Altava 2007 Reserva (Rioja). O ff for additional cellaring; best from 2015 onward. Eu- —M.S. 88 the bat, this smells of minerals, vitamins ropvin USA. Cellar Selection. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 and iodine, but with airing plum and blackberry abv: 14% Price: $85 aromas arise. The wine has snappy acidity but soft Bodegas Faustino 2001 I Gran Reserva (Rioja). edges and mild tannins. Flavors of cola, baking Bodegas Fuentespina 2009 F (Ribera del 91 For full review see page 7. spices and black fruits finish wide and easy, with 89 Duero). Rubbery, rooty aromas of herbs and abv: 13.5% Price: $38 a dusting of pepper. Drink now. Simone Interna- berries blend with stalky red-fruit notes. This feels tional. —M.S. shrill and tangy, with hard tannins, while flavors of Contino 2007 Reserva (Rioja). Despite abv: 13% Price: $15 roasted berry fruits come with a leafy undercurrent. 90 heavy aromas of baked berry, prune and Roasted, herbal, oaky flavors settle in on a juicy, raisin, this is solid on the palate, with a firm grip. Viña Olvido 2007 Reserva (Rioja). This dry, high-acid finish. Drink through 2020. Axial Wines Flavors of earthy plum, tomato, red currant and 88 floral, exotic Rioja is a different breed of USA. —M.S. herbs finish pure, tight and persistent. The more cat. The bouquet is jammy and herbal, with flow- abv: 14.5% Price: $85 this breathes and expands, the more character it ery notes. In the mouth, abrasive tannins hold up shows. Drink through 2018. Europvin USA. —M.S. a wayward frame, while blueberry, plum and flo- Vega Sicilia 2008 Valbuena (Ribera del Du- abv: 14% Price: $45 ral flavors finish with prune and dried herb notes. 89 ero). Cranberry and currant aromas come Drink now. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S. with hints of herbs and juniper. An astringent ini- Bodegas Palacio 2010 Cosme Palacio Ven- abv: 14% Price: $19 tial mouthfeel turns more complex with airing. Fla- 89 dimia Seleccionada (Rioja). Initially this is vors of berry and plum are roasted and rubbery. It scratchy and spicy, with hints of sandalwood and Bodegas Palacio 2010 Glorioso Crianza finishes on the grabby side, with chunky tannins. crisp red fruits appearing later on. The palate is 87 (Rioja). Plum and berry aromas are clean Drink through 2020. Europvin USA. —M.S. fresh and balanced, with rubbery tannins, zesty ac- but regular. The wine feels wiry and bouncy, with abv: 14% Price: $195 ids and subtle flavors of plum, berry and coffee. A pointed acidity. Fresh, tangy flavors of red berry dry, peppery finish is a proper wrap. Drink through and cranberry finish dry, oaky and tight. It’s good Monteabellón 2008 24 Meses en Barrica 2017. Habarcelo North America. —M.S. and familiar in an old-school way. Habarcelo North 88 (Ribera del Duero). Rubber, cured meat and abv: 13.5% Price: $20 America. —M.S. herbal berry aromas feed into a tomatoey palate abv: 13.5% Price: $19 with raw acidity and rough tannins. This features Dinastía Vivanco 2007 Reserva (Rioja). gritty flavors of berry and raisin, while the finish 89 Brandied cherry and cassis aromas are can- Bodegas Valdemar 2010 Inspiración Valde- is a bit flat in feel and tastes of prune and stalky, died and gritty, but get better with airing. The wine 87 mar Selección (Rioja). Plum and berry aro- roasted berries. Unlike many Ribera wines, this is is full in body and endowed with just enough acid- mas are leathery but honest and not overreaching. earthy and not overly ripe. Drink through 2017. Eu- ity. Flavors of baked berry are earthy at the core, The wine feels tight and pinched, while savory fla- ropvin USA. —M.S. with accents of chocolate and herbs. A mellow, not vors of saucy plum and red-berry fruits finish light- abv: 14% Price: $42 overpowering finish is dry and slightly complex. ly herbal, with a kick of tomato and spice along with Drink through 2017. Opici Wines. —M.S. leather. CIV/USA. —M.S. Señorío de Caleruega 2009 Ribera del Du- abv: 14% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $20 88 ero. Horsey, leathery aromas are earthy and funky, although with time blackberry notes rise up. Patrocinio 2010 Zinio Crianza (Rioja). Berry Rio Madre 2012 Rioja. Jammy aromas of red The wine is lively, tough and offers bracing acidity. 89 and plum aromas are clean and composed. 87 berries, red licorice sticks and green herbs Flavors of herbs, licorice and lemony acidity sup- The wine feels juicy, pure and medium to full in filter toward a pinched mouthfeel with creamy oak port core blackberry fruit, while the finish is herbal body. Flavors of cherry and plum are spiced up with for an offset. Flavors of boysenberry are dilute but and woodsy, with dark notes of espresso and black a white pepper note, while oaky spice and dusty fresh and friendly. Overall, this is good and easy but licorice. Cuddihy Wine Importers. —M.S. pepper flavors create a lasting, long finish. Undis- simple, with gaps in its fiber. Jorge Ordoñez Selec- abv: 14% Price: $96 covered Wines. —M.S. tions. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 abv: 14.5% Price: $11

RIOJA Viña Herminia 2009 Vendimia Seleccionada Viña Los Valles 2010 Crianza Made with Or- 89 (Rioja). Aromas of graphite, asphalt, floral 86 ganic Grapes (Rioja). Leafy, dry, peppery Covila 2004 II Gran Reserva (Rioja). Ripe berry, black cherry and oak are harmonious and aromas don’t show much overt fruit. The wine is 92 dark-fruit aromas come with ample oak, inviting. This wine feels juicy and rubbery, while dry, drawing and snappy, with earthy berry flavors spice and balsamic notes. It’s lush and deep in the black-fruit and plum flavors come with herbal notes and notes of rubber and spice on a dry finish. Grapes mouth, with a shot of lemony acidity for mooring. and overt barrel notes. A fresh, juicy, zesty finish is of Spain. —M.S. Blackberry, loamy berry, baking spice and toast fla- pure Graciano. Europvin USA. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 vors finish plump, round and with a cedary note. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Drink through 2022. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Marqués de Riscal 2007 Reserva (Rioja). —M.S. Bodegas Muriel 2011 JME (Rioja). Heavy 85 With a rusty color and leafy aromas of abv: 14% Price: $32 88 char and cedar aromas sit atop green-lean- earthy berries and tar, this wine is fading. Hailing ing black-fruit scents. This is tight, juicy, acidic and from a subpar vintage, it is acidic, with oaky resin Bodegas Corral 1996 Don Jacobo Gran Reserva woody on the palate, with shallow black-fruit fla- on the mouthfeel. Flavors of herbal plum, tomato, 91 (Rioja). On the nose this wine remains ripe vors that are largely covered by charred oak. A zesty, vanilla and tobacco break up, while the finish brings

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stalky notes. Shaw-Ross International Importers. tangy berry fruits lean toward green, while the fin- out and tired, but give it time to spread out and it —M.S. ish is fresh yet abrasive. Winebow. —M.S. reveals mature, earthy, leafy aromas and a round abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 13.5% Price: $9 palate with choppy, firm tannins. Earthy flavors of dried cherry, Christmas spices and chocolate yield Palacios Remondo 2010 La Montesa (Rioja). to licorice on the finish. Drink now. M Imports, LLC. 85 Rubbery berry aromas are a bit stalky and CAMPO DE BORJA —M.S. roasted in nature. The wine feels dry and short, abv: 14.5% Price: $NA with leafy, herbal flavors of red plum and currant. Alto Moncayo 2011 Garnacha (Campo de It’s minty and mildly green on the finish, with dry- 94 Borja). For full review see page 4. Editors’ Torres 2010 Salmos (Priorat). Ripe, jammy, ing tannins. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S. Choice. 90 berry flavors are fruity, with a roasted abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 16% Price: $44 overtone. This feels round, rubbery and fresh, while broad berry flavors include hints of herbs Pagos del Moncayo 2012 Prados PdM Mon- but not much in the way of minerality or nuance. NAVARRA 93 cayo (Campo de Borja). With its opaque An extracted, slightly tannic finish is weighty and black color and massive yet alluring aromas of smooth, but ordinary. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Inurrieta 2010 Laderas de Inurrieta Graciano blackberry and black currant, this whopper is on —M.S. 89 (Navarra). From a superb vintage, it de- the money. The mouthfeel is lush and pure, while abv: 14.5% Price: $40 livers a big dose of earthy berry, cassis and spice flavors of blackberry, chocolate and baking spices aromas. The palate is bouncy and linear, with lift- flow easily onto a subtle finish that’s neither overly Vall Llach 2011 Embruix (Priorat). As is nor- ing acidity. Flavors of boysenberry are snappy and oaky nor weighty. Drink through 2017. Axial Wines 90 mal for Embruix, the nose is generous and lively at first, then more loamy as the wine’s acidity USA. —M.S. jammy, with extracted flavors of grapy black fruits settles. Drink this bright, fruity wine through 2017. abv: 14.5% Price: $38 and earth. The palate is smooth and jammy, with Vinaio Imports. —M.S. easy tannins and ripe flavors of plum and cassis. abv: 14.5% Price: $34 Alto Moncayo 2011 Veraton Garnacha (Cam- The finish is loamy, plump and soft. Drink through 92 po de Borja). For full review see page 5. 2017. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S. Jardín de Lúculo 2012 Los Bohemios Garnacha abv: 15.5% Price: $27 abv: 15.5% Price: $25 87 (Navarra). Cherry and raspberry aromas are lively and inviting. This wine offers plenty of body Pagos del Moncayo 2011 PdM Moncayo Syrah Onix 2011 Clàssic (Priorat). Plum, cranberry and good balance for the price. Flavors of candied 91 (Campo de Borja). This Syrah is big, rubbery 88 and blueberry aromas come with earth and plum and berry are not complex but have support and heavily charred on the nose, with iodine and ample oak. The wine is jammy and a touch lazy on from density and weight on the finish. Axial Wines minerally notes kicking in. The palate is deep but the palate. Flavors of savory, baked plum and spicy, USA. Best Buy. —M.S. not too heavy, with juicy acidity. Flavors of plum, stewed berry fruits finish with leftover oak and abv: 13.5% Price: $10 berry, chocolate and spice finish toasty, with lico- spice flavors as well as a jammy feel. The Artisan rice and espresso notes. Drink now through 2018. Collection. —M.S. Príncipe de Viana 2012 Roble Tempranillo Evaki Inc. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 86 (Navarra). Crisp, snappy red-berry aromas abv: 14.5% Price: $30 are the opening on this fresh and easy Tempranillo. Trossos del Priorat 2010 Lo Mon (Priorat). A zesty, quick mouthfeel and tangy, bright plum 88 Jammy but generic berry fruit aromas are and berry flavors are pleasant and juicy. Classical PRIORAT crowded by lactic, pasty oak scents and vanilla. The Wines. —M.S. wine is hard as cement in the mouth, with jagged abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Ferré I Catasús 2008 Terre de Fic 3 (Priorat). tannins. Flavors of sun-baked raisin and plum fold 92 Earthy aromas of baked plum and raspberry in chocolate and rubbery notes on a grabby finish Zorzal 2011 Graciano (Navarra). Muddled, set up a lively palate with bright, persistent acids that includes residual resiny oak. This could use 86 murky initial aromas of earth and loam give and a full body. Baked but still vital flavors of plum, more time; try after 2016. Votto Vines Importing. way to leathery berry and stalky notes. The wine is berry and spice finish with notes of cocoa, herbs —M.S. tangy in the mouth, with red plum and berry flavors and tomato. This is an elegant Priorat with lasting abv: 14.5% Price: $38 that carry aftershocks of minty oak and herbs. A snap. Drink through 2018. M Imports, LLC. —M.S. modest, fresh, red-berry finish is, at most, medium abv: 14.5% Price: $NA L’Atzar 2011 Priorat. Gritty leather and rai- in weight. Table 31 Imports. —M.S. 87 sin aromas suggest overripe fruit. In the abv: 13.5% Price: $13 Marco Abella 2008 Mas Mallola (Priorat). mouth, this wine shows an expected jammy, plump 92 For full review see page 6. mouhtfeel that’s almost mushy. Flavors of blue- Zorzal 2012 Viña Zorzal Garnacha (Navarra). abv: 14.5% Price: $50 berry, stewed plum and licorice finish loamy in feel 85 This spunky Garnacha smells like fruit and candied in flavor, with chunky weight and mild punch with some green herbs mixed in. The palate Clos Berenguer del Molar 2008 Selecció Syr- heat. Drink through 2016. Parador Selections, LLC. is wiry and acidic in feel, with raspberry and plum 90 ah (Priorat). Dense black cherry and stewed —M.S. flavors. It finishes fresh and zesty. Classical Wines. plum aromas introduce this round, jammy and ul- abv: 14% Price: $24 —M.S. traripe Syrah. In the mouth, the wine is rich and abv: 13% Price: $14 chunky, with brandied cherry and baked berry and Mas de Subirà 2010 Priorat. Stalky aromas plum flavors topped with sprinkles of nutmeg and 87 suggest animal hide and roasted fruit. The Castillo de Monjardin 2012 Clásico Fincas cumin. Nothing evaporates on the ripe finish. Drink wine is rubbery, firm and leathery in feel, with 84 Propias Tempranillo (Navarra). Scratchy, through 2018. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. plum, berry, raisin and other dark-fruit flavors. slightly grassy red-fruit aromas feed into a lean abv: 15% Price: $45 On the finish, it feels earthy and tastes like stewed palate with raw acidity. Flavors of herbs, mint and black fruits and prune. Drink sooner rather than Ferré I Catasús 2008 Terra de Fic 2 (Priorat). later. Freixenet USA. —M.S. 90 Initially, this comes across as being baked abv: 15.5% Price: $30

26 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 Cellers Unió 2011 Señorio de Convey (Prio- Mano A Mano 2009 Venta la Ossa Syrah flavors are sour and the feel is scratchy. Broadview 86 rat). Raisiny aromas are rich and gritty. 90 (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). This has a Imports. —M.S. Pounding tannins and a beam of acidity drive the charred, roasted opening along with big black-fruit abv: 13.5% Price: $15 palate, which brings flavors of oaky baked fruits and aromas. Saturated and full-bodied, it offers flavors black licorice. A jammy finish with baked berry and of baked berry, plum and herbs. It’s long, expectedly raisiny flavors confirms that this is extremely ripe toasty and fully oaked on the finish, with chunky, OTHER RED WINES and ready to drink now. Monsieur Touton Selection rubbery tannins. Drink through 2016. Aviva Vino. Ltd. —M.S. —M.S. Torres 2008 Grans Muralles (Conca de Bar- abv: 14% Price: $17 abv: 14% Price: $21 93 berà). Loamy berry and saucy notes make for a complex bouquet, while the mouthfeel on this Dehesa de los Llanos 2009 Maza Cruz (Vino Catalonian blend is smooth, round, precise and UTIEL-REQUENA 89 de la Tierra de Castilla). Black cherry and structured. Flavors of ripe plum, herbs, licorice and wild berry aromas are appealing and lusty. In the savory spices finish dark, chunky and deep, with Vicente Gandia 2009 Hoya de Cadenas Reser- mouth, this blend of Sryah, Graciano, Tempranillo lasting cocoa and cherry notes that suggest warmth 87 va Privada (Utiel-Requena). Plum and berry and Petit Verdot is solid but a bit thin in the middle. and richness. Drink through 2019. Ste. Michelle aromas are forward, fresh and composed. This blend Flavors of raw oak, coffee and cherry finish with a Wine Estates. —M.S. of 85% Tempranillo and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon wave of creamy oak. Despite its modest structure, abv: 14% Price: $150 is zesty and snappy in feel, while the flavors veer this is a very good and interesting blend to drink toward plum and berry with toast and oak accents. now. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. Vinyes del Terrer 2010 Nus del Terrer (Tar- A juicy, pure finish makes it easy to like. Vicente abv: 14% Price: $22 92 ragona). This blend of Garnacha and Cab- Gandia USA. Best Buy. —M.S. ernet Sauvignon is a dense, ripe bruiser with huge abv: 12.5% Price: $12 Montalvo Wilmot 2006 Cabernet de Familia blackberry aromas that set up a wide-bodied, raw- 88 Finca Los Cerrillos Cabernet Sauvignon (Vino feeling palate with tons of extract and monster Tarantas 2009 Crianza Tempranillo (Utiel- de la Tierra de Castilla). Boysenberry and blueberry tannins. Blackberry, espresso, chocolate and spice 86 Requena). Friendly plum and cherry aro- aromas are accented by violet notes and cedary oak. flavors are full, ripe and deep. Things hold firm on a mas are candied but not artificial smelling in this The wine is snappy and slightly reduced in feel, staunch, youthful finish. Drink through 2021. Clas- basic Tempranillo. It’s fresh and bouncy in mouth- while flavors of rooty berry, herbs, spice and tree sical Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S. feel, with a mix of oaky berry, vanilla and licorice bark finish dry, with hints of tobacco and barbecue abv: 14% Price: $50 flavors. Red plum and peppery notes define the fin- smoke. Drink now. Broadview Imports. —M.S. ish. Natural Merchants LLC. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 Alta Alella 2011 Orbus (Alella). This dense, abv: 13% Price: $11 91 purple wine is packed with roasted, charred Tinedo 2009 Cala N. 1 Tempranillo-Shiraz aromas of burnt toast, espresso and plum. The pal- Vicente Gandia 2009 Hoya de Cadenas 88 (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Wiry, scratchy ate is creamy and smooth, with good core acidity. 85 Reserva Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). Fresh raspberry aromas are a touch herbal but stop short Flavors of loamy berry, raw oak, chocolate and herbs yet basic cherry and raspberry aromas announce of veering toward green. This blend is full, rubbery finish smooth, woody and lush. Only 300 cases this wine as being straightforward stuff. The palate and a touch sticky in feel. Flavors of blackberry, oak made; drink through 2019. Palateur Imports. —M.S. is raw in feel and acid-driven, while snappy flavors and mint finish with heavy tannins and a resiny, abv: 13.5% Price: $50 of red berry fruits are good on the surface but lack grabby feel. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. complexity or depth. Vicente Gandia USA. Best Buy. abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Vinyes del Terrer 2010 Terrer d’Aubert (Tar- —M.S. 90 ragona). This Catalonian blend is a concen- abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Finca Constancia 2011 Parcela 12 Single Vine- trated number with a narrow, fruit-forward nose 87 yard Graciano (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). and cheesy leather on the side. The palate is full, Bodegas Iranzo 2009 Vertus Crianza Tem- Aromas of raspberry and plum compote are candied grabby and ripe; flavors of blackberry and cassis 84 pranillo (Utiel-Requena). Stalky overriding and not complex. The wine is snappy, alert and raw are jammy and dark. It finishes sweet in flavor and aromas suggest wet hay and grassy red fruits. The in feel, with plum, raspberry and green herb notes. ultraripe in feel, with a syrupy aftertaste. Another wine is firm in feel; flavors of black fruits are generic An herbal, lightly oaky finish feels zesty and juicy. year or two in bottle will help this settle down; and finish with rubbery bitterness and tangy outly- San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S. drink through 2020. Classical Wines. —M.S. ing acidity. Natural Merchants LLC. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $40 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Montalvo Wilmot 2006 Colección Privada Yemaserena 2006 Tempranillo (La Mancha). VINO DE LA TIERRA 87 Finca Las Cerrillos (Vino de la Tierra de Castil- 89 Aromas of cured meat, earthy plum and dry la). Cedary oak, vanilla, tobacco and lemony notes berry fruits are composed and harmonious. This DE CASTILLA blend with floral plum and berry on the nose of this mature wine feels firm and a touch grating, while Tempranillo-Cabernet blend. The mouthfeel is wiry ripe flavors of blackberry and plum are borderline Dehesa de los Llanos 2009 Maza Cruz Cima and reduced in feel, while flavors of baking spices, baked. On the finish, a chocolaty flavor and modest 90 (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Black-fruit wood grain, stewed berry and raisin finish minty, depth are solid but don’t amplify the wine. Drink aromas are lively and encouraging. The mouthfeel with licorice and anise accents. Drink now. Broad- now. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S. is a touch clamped and narrow, but airing and ag- view Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 ing should help things expand. Flavors of ripe plum abv: 13.5% Price: $19 and berry get a push from bright acidity, and on the Vicente Gandia NV Whatever It Takes Artwork finish this mix of Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cab Sau- Montalvo Wilmot 2009 Finca Los Cerrillos Ro- 87 Donated by George Clooney Cabernet Sau- vignon and Graciano offers plenty of bounce and 81 ble Syrah (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). Green vignon (Spain). Dry spice, saline and generic red- pulse. Drink through 2018. Vinamericas Selections. aromas dominate the underlying strawberry scents. berry aromas make up the nose on this balanced yet —M.S. In the mouth, it’s raw and acidic. As a result, the familiar tasting Cabernet. Flavors of candied black abv: 14.5% Price: $35 plum and berry finish oaky, with cassis notes pok-

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ing through. Overall this is fruity and fresh in style. Racy acidity adds balance and the lingering finish over to the palate, along with ripe peach, green Vicente Gandia USA. Best Buy. —M.S. ends on an almond note. Villa Italia. —K.O. apple, grapefruit and mineral. Lively acidity gives abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $19 structure and a vibrant, clean finish. Vin Divino. —K.O. La Granja 360 2012 Tempranillo-Garnacha Feudi di San Gregorio 2012 Cutizzi (Greco di abv: 12% Price: $20 85 (Cariñena). Berry aromas and a touch of 90 Tufo). For full review see page 9. milk chocolate make for a good nose. The wine feels abv: 13.5% Price: $37 Antonio Caggiano 2012 Devon (Greco di solid and a bit blocky and resiny. Flavors of jammy, 88 Tufo). Rich and full-bodied, it starts with sweet berries finish with some faux oak character Benito Ferrara 2012 Greco di Tufo. Alluring aromas of stone fruit, citrus and slate. The palate is and a medicinal note. For the price, the wine is more 89 aromas of stone fruit, pear, apple and slate loaded with ripe white peach, mineral and almond. than acceptable. Axial Wines USA. Best Buy. —M.S. all carry over to the palate along with mineral notes. Lively acidity brightens up the creamy texture. de abv: 13.5% Price: $6 The richness is brightened by fresh acidity that Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. gives nice balance. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $25 Marques de Griñon 2006 Estate Bottled abv: 13% Price: $15 84 Syrah (Dominio de Valdepusa). Initially this Cantine di Marzo 2013 Greco di Tufo. Aromas seems completely flat and raisiny. Yet despite a Cantine di Marzo 2012 Franciscus (Greco di 88 suggest pineapple, stone fruit and papaya. flabby, heavy mouthfeel and roasted, syrupy flavors, 89 Tufo). Flint, orange blossom and Mediter- The round, bright palate offers peach, green apple, it offers just enough life on the finish to merit a go ranean herb aromas take center stage. The palate Rainier cherry and mint alongside zesty acidity and with soft cheeses and the like. Think of it as Port offers grapefruit, lemon-lime, nectarine, peach and a light layer of mineral. Conexport Italy. —K.O. with far less structure; drink now. Winebow. —M.S. mineral alongside crisp acidity. It finishes bright abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 15% Price: $40 and clean. Conexport Italy. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $28 I Capitani 2013 Serum (Greco di Tufo). It 88 leads with aromas of stone fruit, hay and SOUTHERN ITALY Colli di Castelfranci 2012 Grotte (Greco di pear. The juicy, round palate delivers creamy white 89 Tufo). It opens with lovely aromas of wild peach, Bartlett pear, citrus, mint and mineral. GRECO DI TUFO flowers and stone fruit. The juicy palate offers The creamy texture is brightened by lively acidity. creamy white peach, pear and apple accented with Wineberry America LLC. —K.O. Benito Ferrara 2012 Vigna Cicogna (Greco di aromatic herbs and mineral alongside lively acidity. abv: 13% Price: $20 92 Tufo). Fragrances recall white flowers, stone Communal Brands. Best Buy. —K.O. fruit, Barlett pear, flint and lemon pie. The rich pal- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Sanpaolo 2012 Greco di Tufo. It begins with ate delivers layers of white and yellow peach, min- 88 aromas of mature tree fruit and spring eral, ginger, white pepper and pink grapefruit. The Di Meo 2012 Greco di Tufo. A blast of ripe flowers. The palate delivers a wave of Bartlett pear, creamy texture is brightened by crisp acidity. de 89 stone fruit accompanies whiffs of saline peach, yellow apple, nectarine and mineral accented Grazia Imports LLC. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. and balsamic herbs. The juicy palate boasts yellow with hints of aromatic herbs and supported by fresh abv: 13.5% Price: $26 peach, pink grapefruit and pear with hints of sage acidity. Wineco Importing. —K.O. and eucalyptus. Mineral marks the finish. Wine De- abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Mastroberardino 2012 Novaserra (Greco di sign. —K.O. 92 Tufo). From the family firm that resurrected abv: 12.5% Price: $30 Terredora 2013 Loggia della Serra (Greco di native grape Greco, this structured, elegant wine 87 Tufo). Aromas of Granny Smith, stone fruit offers rich peach, apple and citrus flavors accented I Favati 2011 Terrantica (Greco di Tufo). Aro- and citrus carry over to the palate along with nec- with intense mineral, spice and aromatic herbs. 89 mas of yellow flowers, lemon drop, nectar- tarine, yellow peach and mineral. The palate is bal- Crisp acidity beautifully balances the rich flavors. ine, yellow peach and balsamic notes carry over to anced by racy acidity and finishes on a bitter, nutty Drink 2017–2022. Winebow. —K.O. the palate along with pink grapefruit and mineral note. Vias Imports. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 sensations. Crisp acidity gives balance and struc- abv: 13% Price: $23 ture. Vinity Wine Company. —K.O. Bambinuto 2012 Greco di Tufo. This bal- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Nativ 2013 Greco di Tufo. Aromas of exotic 90 anced wine opens with aromas of ripe stone 86 fruit and apricot come with a whiff of hay fruit, mineral and a suggestion of bread crust. The Pietracupa 2012 Greco di Tufo. This full- and celery. The lean, simple palate offers nectar- palate offers creamy white peach, cantaloupe, pink 89 bodied white opens with subtle aromas of ine and peach along with a note of bitter hazelnut. grapefruit and mineral brightened by zesty acid- acacia, beeswax, citrus and stone fruits. The linear Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. ity. White almond marks the finish. Bacchus Cellar. palate delivers pink grapefruit, nectarine, peach and abv: 13% Price: $20 —K.O. mineral supported by a backbone of lively acidity. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA Panebianco. —K.O. Torricino 2012 Greco di Tufo. This wine abv: 13.5% Price: $28 86 opens with aromas of citrus, grapefruit and Cantine di Marzo 2011 Scipio (Greco di Tufo). stone fruit. The palate offers yellow peach and min- 90 Vibrant and structured, it has aromas of Torricino 2012 Raone (Greco di Tufo). Aro- eral alongside sharp acidity. It has a bitter, nutty flint, brimstone, lemon zest and grapefruit, all of 89 mas suggest earth and ripe stone fruit. The finish. Paolo Boselli. —K.O. which carry over to the palate alongside racy acidi- succulent palate delivers nectarine, lemon-lime, abv: 13% Price: $14 ty. The bright, juicy palate is accented with energiz- yellow peach and pink grapefruit accented with ing mineral that add depth. Conexport Italy. —K.O. mineral notes. Crisp acidity brightens this up and Villa Matilde 2012 Tenute di Altavilla (Greco abv: 13.5% Price: $59 generates a clean, refreshing finish. Paolo Boselli. 85 di Tufo). Sensations of white peach, apricot, —K.O. citrus and mineral come alongside medicinal notes D’Antiche Terre 2012 Greco di Tufo. A struc- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 that leave a rather bitter taste. Empson USA Ltd. 90 tured wine, it’s loaded with sensations of —K.O. juicy nectarine, grapefruit, ripe peach and mineral. Vesevo 2012 Greco di Tufo. Aromas of apri- abv: 13% Price: $21 89 cot, pineapple and banana aromas all carry

28 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 finish closes on a note of hazelnut. Palm Bay Inter- cal fruit alongside a mineral note and crisp acidity. FIANO DI AVELLINO national. —K.O. Communal Brands. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $21 abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Feudi di San Gregorio 2012 Pietracalda (Fi- 92 ano di Avellino). For full review see page 6. Rocca del Principe 2011 Fiano di Avellino. I Capitani 2013 Gaudium (Fiano di Avel- abv: 13.5% Price: $37 89 It conveys a lightly floral, herbaceous fra- 87 lino). Aromas suggest pineapple, papaya grance. The palate is more restrained than exuber- and creamy lemon pastry. The palate offers creamy Villa Raiano 2012 Alimata (Fiano di Avelli- ant, offering juicy pineapple, citrus, pink grapefruit white peach, pear, almond and a hint of mineral 92 no). Concentrated sensations of apple, pear, and mineral accented with sage and rosemary. In- but it finishes on a sweet, sugary note. Wineberry lemon, mint and mineral are accented with rose- digenous Selections. —K.O. America LLC. —K.O. mary, sage and intense smoky notes. It’s structured abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13% Price: $20 but elegant with a great depth of flavors. This is already delicious but will develop more complexity. Salvatore Molettieri 2011 Apianum (Fiano Tenuta Cavalier Pepe 2012 Refiano (Fiano di Drink now through 2020. Siena Imports. Editors’ 89 di Avellino). Beautiful fragrances of white 87 Avellino). This wine opens with subtle aro- Choice. —K.O. spring flowers and yellow fruits lead off. The juicy mas of toast, vanilla and white flowers. The palate abv: 13.5% Price: $38 palate offers lemon and pink grapefruit accented offers lemon zest, yellow apple and a hint of cin- with mineral and aromatic herbs. de Grazia Imports namon alongside fresh acidity. AP Wine Imports. Ciro Picariello 2012 Fiano di Avellino. Deli- LLC. —K.O. —K.O. 91 cious and linear, this full-bodied, elegant abv: 13.5% Price: $21 abv: 13% Price: $25 wine has a subtle nose of white flower, grapefruit and flint. The fresh palate delivers nectarine, lemon Vesevo 2012 Fiano di Avellino. This opens Traerte 2012 Fiano di Avellino. It conveys zest, rosemary, sage and mineral. This will develop 89 with an unusual but intriguing fragrance 87 overripe citrus, lemon peel and mature ex- more complexity; drink through 2017. Polaner Se- of candied citrus accented with balsamic notes, otic fruit accented with mineral notes and buttery lections. —K.O. aromatic herbs and slate. The bright, linear palate sensations. Artisan Wines, Oz Wine. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $23 delivers succulent pineapple, nectarine and pink abv: 13.5% Price: $17 grapefruit energized by mineral notes. Vin Divino. Mastroberardino 2012 Radici (Fiano di Avel- —K.O. Cantina del Barone 2012 Particella 928 (Fia- 91 lino). It opens with intense honeysuckle, abv: 12.5% Price: $20 86 no di Avellino). Muddled sensations of over- wisteria and jasmine aromas. The delicious palate ripe lemon/lime, mature exotic fruit and smoked delivers juicy peach, pear and green apple accented Contrada Michele 2012 Selvecorte (Fiano ham are accented with intense mineral and notes with aromatic herbs and energizing mineral along- 88 di Avellino). This bright wine reveals fra- of balsamic herbs. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. side fresh acidity. It’s nicely balanced with a linger- grances of white flower, pear, citrus and slate. The —K.O. ing finish. Winebow. —K.O. juicy palate offers grapefruit, lemon-lime and min- abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $25 eral. A succulent finish closes on a note of white al- mond. MHW, Ltd. —K.O. Nativ 2013 Fiano di Avellino. Fresh and Colli di Lapio 2012 Fiano di Avellino. Sensa- abv: 13.5% Price: $23 86 linear, this opens with delicate aromas of 90 tions of pressed flowers, exotic fruit, white lemon and stone fruit that all carry on to the pal- peach, nectarine, almond and mineral sensations D’Antiche Terre 2012 Fiano di Avellino. A ate along with nectarine and pear. It’s simple and all meld together smoothly and effortlessly. It has 88 mélange of aromas, including walnut, pine- crisp with a nutty finish. Montcalm Wine Import- structure and depth but is also very easy to drink. apple, peach and citrus, takes center stage. The vi- ers. —K.O. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. brant palate is restrained and linear, offering pink abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: 13.5% Price: $27 grapefruit and mineral with a succulent, refreshing finish. Villa Italia. —K.O. Sanpaolo 2012 Fiano di Avellino. This leads Pietracupa 2012 Fiano di Avellino. Fragranc- abv: 13% Price: $19 86 with aromas of white and yellow flowers, 90 es suggest exotic fruit, almond and slate. while the palate offers grapefruit, lemon drop and The focused palate delivers juicy citrus, nectarine I Favati 2011 Pietramara (Fiano di Avellino). a hint of ginger. It’s simple but well made and very and pink grapefruit accented with energizing min- 88 Intense aromas of citrus, nectarine, min- enjoyable. Wineco Importing. —K.O. eral. It’s already delicious, but hold until 2016 for eral and smoke characterize this wine. The linear, abv: 12.5% Price: $NA more complexity. Panebianco. —K.O. restrained palate delivers lemon, lime and mineral abv: 13% Price: $28 accented with aromatic herbs. Vinity Wine Com- Terredora 2010 Campore (Fiano di Avellino). pany. —K.O. 86 Partly aged in barriques for six months, this Tenuta Sarno 1860 2012 Fiano di Avellino. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 opens with aromas of toast, oak and butterscotch. 90 Opening aromas include white flower, ex- These carry over to the palate along with lemon peel otic fruit and flint. The juicy palate offers grapefruit Terredora 2012 Terre Dora (Fiano di Avel- and a bitter note of walnut. It maintains fresh acid- and lime accented with aromatic herbs and mineral. 88 lino). It opens with aromas of stone fruit, ity but it lacks fruit richness. Vias Imports. —K.O. The succulent finish closes on a note of white al- pineapple and a hint of mineral. Rich flavors of pear, abv: 13% Price: $NA mond. Caroline Debbanè Selections. —K.O. peach and mango accompany an intriguing smoked abv: 13% Price: $30 note. The palate finishes crisp and dry. Vias Im- Villa Matilde 2012 Fiano di Avellino. The ports. —K.O. 85 nose of stone fruit is layered with medicinal Feudi di San Gregorio 2012 Fiano di Avel- abv: 13.5% Price: $24 aromas. Although the palate delivers grapefruit, cit- 89 lino. Polished and structured, it’s loaded rus and spearmint, the aftertaste carries the same with fragrant yellow flower, peach, nectarine, white Colli di Castelfranci 2012 Pendino (Fiano di bitter, medicinal sensation detected on the nose. pepper, ginger and mineral sensations that are sup- 87 Avellino). Fragrances of Spanish broom and Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. ported by a backbone of crisp acidity. The lingering orange blossom come with a hint of beeswax. The abv: 13% Price: $22 juicy palate offers grapefruit, nectarine and tropi-

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FALERNO DEL MASSICO LACRYMA CHRISTI DEL dried apricot. The dense palate offers oak extract, candied lemon, toast, and dried stone fruit. It fin- WHITE WINES VESUVIO WHITE WINES ishes on a sugary sweet note of rock candy and but- terscotch. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. Masseria Felicia 2012 Anthologia (Falerno Cantine Astroni 2012 Cratere Bianco (Lac- abv: 13.5% Price: $70 88 del Massico). Polished and sleek, this wine 88 ryma Christi del Vesuvio). A blend of na- opens with tropical fruit and citrus aromas. The tive grapes Caprettone, Greco and Falanghina, this Tenuta San Francesco 2012 PerEva (Costa steely palate offers grapefruit, lemon zest and nec- wine has aromas that recall wild flowers and mature 87 d’Amalfi). Made from a blend of Falanghina, tarine alongside energizing mineral and fresh acidi- stone fruit with a hint of Mediterranean herbs. The Biancolella and Pepella, it conveys aromas of honey- ty. It has a clean, refreshing finish. Vinifera Imports. round, juicy palate delivers ripe peach and apricot suckle, chamomile and exotic fruit punctuated with —K.O. accented with notes of sage and thyme. The Vine sage and mint. The linear palate offers citrus, grape- abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Collective. —K.O. fruit and pineapple alongside fresh acidity. Selected abv: 12.5% Price: $17 Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O. Trabucco 2012 16 Marzo (Falerno del Mas- abv: 12.5% Price: $24 88 sico). Aromas include passion fruit and Cantine Olivella 2012 Lacrimabianco (Lac- honeysuckle. The fruity, vibrant palate delivers ripe 88 ryma Christi del Vesuvio). This blend of white peach, pineapple, citrus, banana and mango native grapes (80% Caprettone and 20% Catalan- SANNIO WHITE WINES alongside a hint of mineral. Crisp acidity leaves the esca) conveys delicate fragrances of Spanish broom mouth feeling refreshed and clean. Conexport Italy. and white fragrant flowers. The vibrant palate offers Fattoria La Rivolta 2012 Fiano (Sannio). —K.O. apple, citrus and peach accented with notes of Med- 90 Made with Fiano, one of Campania’s most abv: 13.5% Price: $35 iterranean herbs. Vinity Wine, Panebianco. —K.O. noble white grapes, this bright, balanced wine is abv: 13% Price: $19 loaded with citrus, exotic fruit, grapefruit, pastry Villa Matilde 2012 Falerno del Massico. cream, smoky mineral, almond and spice sensa- 83 Strange aromas recall adhesive bandages Feudi di San Gregorio 2012 Bianco (Lacryma tions. The lively acidity gives a clean, refreshing fin- and disinfectant. The bitter palate offers up unusu- 88 Christi del Vesuvio). Made from a blend of ish. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. al sensations of medicinal herbs, and it ends on a Coda di Volpe and Falanghina, this has aromas of abv: 12.5% Price: $23 marked bitter note. Empson USA Ltd. —K.O. lemon zest, pine forest and Mediterranean herbs. abv: 13% Price: $21 The fresh, linear palate offers lemon-lime, nectarine Fattoria La Rivolta 2012 Greco (Sannio). A and mineral alongside crisp acidity. Palm Bay Inter- 88 savory wine, it features aromas of lemon national. —K.O. zest, stone fruit and hazelnuts. The palate offers CAMPI FLEGREI WHITE WINES abv: 12.5% Price: $16 lemon-lime, pear and pink grapefruit accented with mineral and an almond note. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Cantine Astroni 2012 Colle Imperatrice Sorrentino 2012 Vigna Lapillo (Lacryma —K.O. 88 (Campi Flegrei). A vibrant wine, it opens 87 Christi del Vesuvio). A blend of Falanghina abv: 13% Price: $NA with aromas of fragrant white flowers and exotic and Coda di Volpe, this offers aromas that recall fruit. The fresh palate delivers grapefruit, lemon pineapple, banana and jasmine. The juicy, simple Mustilli 2012 Fiano (Sannio). Aromas of zest, thyme, rosemary and mint alongside lively palate offers pear, white peach and a hint of flint 86 acacia flower, honey and beeswax carry over acidity. The Vine Collective. —K.O. alongside fresh acidity. Supreme Wines & Spirits. to the palate along with mature yellow apple. It has abv: 12% Price: $17 —K.O. an overripe quality and has already reached its ideal abv: 13% Price: $24 drinking window so enjoy now. Casa de Case. —K.O. Cantine Farro 2012 Le Cigliate (Campi abv: 13% Price: $18 88 Flegrei). There’s plenty of tropical fruit, Casa Setaro 2012 Lacryma Christi del Ve- white peach, green apple and mineral sensations in 86 suvio. Pretty floral aromas of broom and this savory wine. The round, juicy palate is support- acacia set the stage. The easy-drinking palate offers IRPINIA WHITE WINES ed by fresh acidity that gives it a clean, quenching ripe pear, passion fruit and a hint of mineral along- finish. Panebianco. —K.O. side crisp acidity that leaves a clean, dry finish. Colli di Castelfranci 2011 Paladino Fiano (Ir- abv: 13% Price: $29 Specialty Wine Co. —K.O. 89 pinia). A focused wine, it has lemon-lime abv: 13% Price: $16 and slate aromas. The linear, citrusy palate offers La Sibilla 2011 Cruna Delago (Campi Flegrei). grapefruit and mineral accented with rosemary and 88 This wine opens with aromas of beeswax, sage. Communal Brands. —K.O. white flower, acacia, lemon drop and smoky miner- COSTA D’AMALFI WHITE WINES abv: 13.5% Price: $25 al. The savory palate delivers lemon zest, grapefruit and yellow peach accented with thyme, rosemary Giuseppe Apicella 2012 Tramonti Bianco (Cos- Feudi di San Gregorio 2012 Campanaro (Ir- and mineral. Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O. 87 ta d’Amalfi). This blend of 50% Falanghina, 88 pinia). This barrel fermented and aged abv: 13% Price: $30 30% Biancolella and 20% other grapes opens with blend of Fiano and Greco opens with attractive pretty aromas of white flower and beeswax with a floral aromas that recall Spanish broom and acacia Grotta del Sole 2011 Coste di Cuma (Campi hint of exotic fruit. The juicy palate offers Bartlett with a whiff of beeswax. The austere palate offers 86 Flegrei). Aged in barriques, it has intense pear, grapefruit and nectarine alongside fresh acid- green pear, citrus and mineral alongside fresh acid- aromas of honeysuckle and exotic fruit. The palate ity. Wine Emporium. —K.O. ity. Palm Bay International. —K.O. is on the lean side, offering citrus, grapefruit, toast abv: 12.5% Price: $18 abv: 13.5% Price: $34 and mineral accented with aromatic herbs. Michael R. Downey Selections. —K.O. Marisa Cuomo 2011 Fiorduva Furore Bianco Traerte 2012 Torama Coda di Volpe (Irpinia). abv: 13.5% Price: $28 87 (Costa d’Amalfi). Made with native grapes 88 It offers aromas of Spanish broom and exot- Ripoli, Fenile and Ginestra, this concentrated, lum- ic fruit. The juicy palate delivers grapefruit, nectar- bering wine opens with aromas of oak, citrus and ine and mature pear accented with a mineral note.

30 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 The fresh acidity gives a clean, quenching finish. sensations accented with a thyme note. Regal Wine has an unusual and intensely balsamic nose while Artisan Wines, Oz Wine. —K.O. Imports Inc. —K.O. the palate offers muddled sensations of eucalyptus, abv: 13.5% Price: $39 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 lemon drop, mineral and a hint of candied ginger but no fruit richness. The Vine Collective. —K.O. I Capitani 2013 Clarum Falanghina (Irpinia). Alois 2012 Caiatì-Morrone Pallagrello Bianco abv: 13% Price: $27 87 Intense tropical fruit aromas are punctuated 87 (Terre del Volturno). Aromas recall lemon by notes of honeysuckle and jasmine. The juicy pal- blossom, hay and citrus. The succulent palate offers Pierluigi Zampaglione 2010 Don Chisciotte ate offers pineapple, mango, banana and citrus with white peach and apple accented with a light mineral 84 Fiano (Campania). This has intense aromas a hint of mineral alongside fresh acidity. Wineberry note. It ends with a hint of apricot. Soilair Selec- of spearmint and eucalyptus. The palate is lean, America LLC. —K.O. tion. —K.O. with licorice and mineral but not enough fruit. abv: 13% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Vineyard Road. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 I Capitani 2013 Faius (Irpinia). This blend Terre del Principe 2012 Le Serole Pallagrello 87 of native white grapes Fiano, Greco and Fa- 87 Bianco (Terre del Volturno). Made from the Pierluigi Zampaglione 2011 Don Chisciotte langhina is aged for six to eight months in barriques. rare Pallagrello Bianco grape, this unfolds with 82 Fiano (Campania). This amber-colored wine Aromas of tropical fruit, coconut, oak and apple aromas of toasted oak, mature apricot, acacia and is showing oxidation. The fruit has dried up, leav- carry over to the palate. Vera Fine Wine. —K.O. beeswax. These carry over to the palate with can- ing only mineral, bitter walnut and flat sensations. abv: 13.5% Price: $27 died lemon and apple. It’s concentrated but rather Vineyard Road. —K.O. one-dimensional, and finishes on a sugary note. abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Donnachiara 2012 Coda di Volpe (Irpinia). Vias Imports. —K.O. 85 Made from the native Coda di Volpe grape, abv: 14% Price: $48 which translates into “fox’s tail,” this wine conveys OTHER WHITE WINES rustic, almost musky aromas that aren’t unpleasant. Vestini Campagnano 2012 Asprinio (Terre del The palate is friendlier, offering savory mandarin, 84 Volturno). Made with the native grape As- Cantine Olivella 2012 Emblema (Vesuvio). citrus and pear with mineral notes and a bone-dry, prino, this wine offers mineral sensations alongside 92 Made from native grape Caprettone, this sa- rather bitter finish. Michelangelo Selections. —K.O. racy acidity but it lacks fruit richness. Montecas- vory wine beckons with inviting fragrances of white abv: 13% Price: $17 telli Selections. —K.O. flowers, nuts, yellow apple, citrus and flint. The abv: 11% Price: $15 focused palate delivers nectarine, lemon zest, pear, Tenuta Cavalier Pepe 2012 Bianco di Bellona mint and mineral accented with Mediterranean 85 Coda di Volpe (Irpinia). Made entirely with herbs. Crisp acidity gives a refreshing finish. Vinity the native Coda di Volpe grape, this lean, linear CAMPANIA WHITE WINES Wine, Panebianco. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. wine has citrus peel and flinty mineral sensations abv: 13% Price: $19 alongside fresh acidity. AP Wine Imports. —K.O. Contrade di Taurasi - Lonardo 2012 Greco- abv: 13% Price: $18 93 musc’ Roviello (Campania). Here’s a gor- Fattoria La Rivolta 2012 Falanghina (Ta- geous wine made with Roviello, an obscure and 89 burno). Intense tropical fruit aromas take TERRE DEL VOLTURNO nearly extinct grape from Campania. It opens with the lead. The ripe, juicy palate offers banana, pine- an alluring floral fragrance punctuated with citrus apple, grapefruit and white peach alongside lemon WHITE WINES and spice. The elegant, structured palate delivers zest and mineral. Adding balance, refreshing acid- grapefruit, cinnamon and intense, focused mineral ity gives way to a clean, lingering finish. T. Edward Selvanova 2012 Acquavigna Pallagrello alongside crisp acidity. Hold for more complexity. Wines Ltd. —K.O. 88 (Terre del Volturno). This savory wine is Drink now through 2020. Multiple U.S. importers. abv: 13.5% Price: $19 made with the native Pallagrello Bianco grape that’s Editors’ Choice. —K.O. making a comeback in Campania. It’s loaded with abv: 14% Price: $28 Mustilli 2009 Vigna Segreta Falanghina citrus, tropical fruit, juicy Bartlett pear and almond 89 (Sant’ Agata dei Goti). This opens with sensations accented with aromatic herbs. Smoky Villa Matilde 2012 Tenuta Rocca dei Leoni an alluring fragrance of aromatic herbs and white mineral gives a linear character. Terroir Society 88 Falanghina (Campania). Intense aromas of fragrant flowers. The palate offers exotic fruit and Wines . —K.O. exotic fruit take center stage in this vibrant wine. lemon drop while thyme, sage and hazelnut add in- abv: NA Price: $24 The round, juicy palate delivers pineapple, banana, terest. Crisp acidity gives a clean, refreshing finish. mature white peach and energizing mineral notes Casa de Case. —K.O. Terre del Principe 2012 Fontanavigna Palla- alongside refreshing acidity. Empson USA Ltd. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 88 grello Bianco (Terre del Volturno). It has aro- —K.O. mas of exotic fruit and a whiff of wildflowers. The abv: 12% Price: $16 Cantina del Taburno 2012 Greco (Beneventa- palate delivers juicy pineapple, honeydew melon, 88 no). This opens with enticing aromas of jas- apple and white peach. It’s nicely balanced and the La Sibilla 2009 Domus Giulii Falanghina mine, stone fruit, canteloupe and mineral. The juicy creamy texture is energized by a light mineral note. 87 (Campania). This deeply colored wine offers fruit palate offers peach and melon accented with Vias Imports. —K.O. a spicy nose of white pepper, ginger and cinnamon nectarine, lemon zest and candied ginger notes. de abv: 13.5% Price: $36 with a whiff of citrus peel. The smoky palate deliv- Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O. ers candied citrus, nectarine and mineral. While it abv: 13.5% Price: $18 Vestini Campagnano 2012 Pallagrello Bianco still has fresh acidity, the fruit richness is already 88 (Terre del Volturno). Elegant and struc- drying up. Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O. Casa di Baal 2011 Fiano (Colli di Salerno). tured, it’s made from Campania’s native Pallagrello abv: 13% Price: $50 88 Aromas recall crushed tomato vine, hay, Bianco, a rare grape that’s almost unknown outside stone fruit and even a whiff of bell pepper. The pal- of the region. It has citrus, peach and chalky mineral Cantine Astroni 2009 Strione Falanghina ate delivers mature white stone fruit and canta- 84 (Campania). This deep golden, almost am- ber-colored wine is showing signs of oxidation. It

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loupe lightly accented with aromatic herbs. Mucci apple and pineapple alongside fresh acidity. Mont- Imports. —K.O. calm Wine Importers. —K.O. SICILY & SARDINIA abv: 13% Price: $23 abv: 13% Price: $16 ETNA WHITE WINES Luigi Maffini 2010 Pietraincatenata (Cilen- Casebianche 2012 Iscadoro (Paestum). 88 to). This structured wine offers toasted oak, 85 Made from organically farmed Fiano, Mal- Benanti 2010 Pietramarina Bianco Superiore yellow apple, spice, citrus and mineral aromas that vasia and Trebbiano grapes, this begins with aro- 95 (Etna). This stunning, full-bodied wine is in carry over to the palate. It’s balanced by fresh acid- mas of oak and coconut. The lean palate offers zesty the running as one of the best white wines in Italy. ity and ends on a walnut note. Panebianco. —K.O. grapefruit, mineral, oak and smoky elements but it It’s perfumed with acacia flower, Spanish broom, abv: 13% Price: $42 lacks fruit richness. Acid Inc Selections. —K.O. beeswax, flint and tree fruit. The delicious palate abv: 13% Price: $19 delivers green apple, Anjou pear and mineral sen- Casebianche 2012 Cumalè (Cilento). Made sations of mesmerizing depth. It will develop even 87 with organically farmed grapes, this wine Sorrentino 2010 Nati Coda di Volpe (Pom- more complexity over time. Drink through 2025. starts with an unusual nose that recalls Asian spic- 84 peiano). This wine opens with mineral aro- Multiple U.S. importers. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. es, curry, rosemary and citrus. The palate is less mas and a whiff of oak. The lean palate offers re- abv: 12.5% Price: $50 exotic, offering lemon-lime and grapefruit lightly strained sensations of apple, lemon zest, slate and a accented with clove. Acid Inc Selections. —K.O. hint of vanilla, but the fruit is dried up. Arte Vino. Cottanera 2012 Bianco (Etna). This beauti- abv: 13% Price: $18 —K.O. 93 ful wine opens with aromas of peach blos- abv: 13.5% Price: $28 som, stone fruit, citrus and slate. The structured Fattoria La Rivolta 2012 Coda di Volpe (Ta- but refined palate delivers juicy grapefruit, green 87 burno). It discloses intense tropical fruit apple, aniseed and lovely mineral alongside fresh aromas of banana and pineapple. The palate is a bit RED WINES acidity and finesse. It’s already delicious but will more reserved, offering white tree fruits, grapefruit develop more complexity. Drink now through 2020. and hint of mineral alongside fresh acidity that Mastroberardino 2007 Radici (Taurasi). This Cottanera USA. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. leaves a clean finish. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O. 94 gorgeous wine from southern Italy shows abv: 12.5% Price: $22 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 the true potential of native grape Aglianico. It opens with an intense fragrance of black cherry, leather, Destro 2012 Isolanuda (Etna). Made with Luigi Maffini 2012 Kràtos (Paestum). An al- truffle, underbrush and spice. The dense, velvety 90 70% Carricante and 30% Catarratto, this 87 luring fragrance of orange blossom and ma- palate delivers blackberry, raspberry and white elegant wine features aromas of tree fruit and white ture pear wafts out of the glass while the round pal- pepper with a hint of espresso. It’s already delicious peach. The focused palate delivers tart green apple, ate delivers sweet honeydew melon and juicy green but hold for even more complexity. Drink through citrus and mineral accented with savory Mediter- apple. The ripe fruit is balanced by fresh acidity. 2027. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —K.O. ranean herbs alongside crisp acidity. It closes on an Panebianco. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60 almond note. Panebianco. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $25 abv: 12.5% Price: $29 Donnachiara 2008 Riserva (Taurasi). This Poderi Foglia 2012 Conca Bianco (Galluccio). 91 Taurasi, made from Southern Italy’s noble Benanti 2012 Biancodicaselle (Etna). Made 87 Made with a blend of 85% Falanghina and Aglianico grape, unfolds with earthy aromas of 88 with Carricante from the slopes of Mount 15% Pallagrello Bianco, this opens with citrus, tilled soil, black fruit and flint. The palate delivers Etna, this opens with a floral fragrance of Spanish graphite and stone fruit aromas. The linear palate a core of tight black cherry, tobacco, white pepper broom and ripe pear. The linear palate offers Gran- offers white peach, yellow grapefruit, lemon zest and smoke notes along with big velvety tannins. Mi- ny Smith apple, citrus and Bartlett pear alongside and mineral alongside lively acidity. Regal Wine Im- chelangelo Selections. —K.O. fresh acidity. It has a bitter, nutty finish. Multiple ports Inc. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 U.S. importers. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $16 abv: 12.5% Price: $25 Terredora 2008 Fatica Contadina (Taurasi). Casa di Baal 2012 Colli di Salerno. Made 90 This bold wine doles out vivid aromas of 86 from a blend of 70% Fiano, 20% Moscato black fruit, earth, tobacco and spice. The palate of- SICILIA WHITE WINES and 10% Malvasia, this offers aromas of tropical fers layers of blackberry, cherry, currants and black fruit and citrus. The subtle, simple palate presents pepper along with balsamic and mineral notes. It COS 2011 Pithos (Sicilia). Made from Gre- peach, pineapple and pink grapefruit alongside should develop more complexity over the next few 92 canico, fermented and aged in terra-cotta fresh acidity. Mucci Imports. —K.O. years. Drink through 2018. Vias Imports. —K.O. amphorae, this amber-colored wine delivers a great abv: 13% Price: $21 abv: 13.5% Price: $31 depth of flavors that include dried apricots, orange zest, cured meats, Mediterranean herbs, lemon Casa D’Ambra 2012 Biancolella (Ischia). This Taverna 2010 Vigna Alta Il Lagarino di Di- drop and forest floor alongside energizing mineral. 86 blend of Biancolella and Forastera opens 86 onisio (Basilicata). This blend of Cabernet It would make a great vino da meditazione. Drink with subtle aromas of white spring flower and tree Sauvignon, Merlot and Aglianico from southern through 2021. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O. fruit. The rather lean palate offers crisp yellow ap- Italy delivers plum, raspberry, spice and espresso abv: 11.5% Price: $44 ple, mineral and Bartlett pear alongside prominent along with integrated oak sensations. It’s easy acidity. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O. drinking and made for everyday enjoyment. Supe- Alessandro di Camporeale 2012 Vigna di Man- abv: NA Price: $29 rior Wines . —K.O. 91 dranova Grillo (Sicilia). Made with organically abv: 14% Price: $30 farmed fruit, this wine opens with an enticing fra- Nativ 2013 Vico Riviera (Falanghina del grance of white flower and stone fruit. The savory 86 Beneventano). An easy-drinking wine, it palate delivers juicy white peach, saline and miner- conveys pretty fragrances of white flowers and trop- al sensations alongside bright acidity. Panebianco. ical fruit. The simple palate delivers white peach, —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $29

32 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 Marco de Bartoli 2011 Grappoli del Grillo (Si- bright acidity. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best refreshing acidity. It’s simple but well-made with a 91 cilia). From the firm whose iconic founder Buy. —K.O. clean finish. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. was the first to vinify and bottle 100% Grillo, this abv: 13% Price: $13 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 structured wine is fermented with native yeasts and aged in French oak barrels of varying size. It deliv- Valle dell’Acate 2013 Zagra Grillo (Sicilia). It Casa di Grazia 2012 Zahara Grillo (Sicilia). ers intense sensations of lemon drop, apricot, honey 88 opens with pretty aromas of orange blossom 85 Aromas of toasted bread crumbs carry over and mineral and will develop more complexity over and tropical fruit. The palate offers lemon zest, nec- to the palate along with citrus and lemon zest. It’s the next few years; drink now–2017. Louis/Dressner tarine and white peach with a mineral undertone. rather lean and one-dimensional with an astringent Selections. —K.O. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O. finish. RDL Wine Rilymily. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $22

Planeta 2012 Carricante (Sicilia). For full Alessandro di Camporeale 2013 Benedè TERRE SICILIANE 90 review see page 10. 87 Catarratto (Sicilia). Made from organically abv: 13.5% Price: $36 grown Catarratto grapes that are native to Sicily, WHITE WINES this delightful wine features aromas of citrus and Planeta 2012 Cometa (Sicilia). For full re- tropical fruit. The palate offers peach, pineapple Cusumano 2013 Angimbè (Terre Siciliane). A 90 view see page 10. and lemon zest alongside a hint of sea salt and fresh 87 blend of 70% Insolia and 30% Chardonnay, abv: 13% Price: $42 acidity. Panebianco. —K.O. this easy-drinking wine has apple, peach, pear and abv: 13% Price: $16 citrus sensations. The round, juicy palate is one- Cusumano 2012 Cubia Insolia (Sicilia). Aged dimensional but easy to enjoy. Terlato Wines Inter- 89 in wooden casks for six months, this struc- Cusumano 2012 Jalé Chardonnay (Sicilia). national. —K.O. tured wine has aromas of white flower, lemon drop 87 Fermented and aged in barriques for six abv: 13.5% Price: $18 and honey that carry over to the dense palate along months, this retro-styled Chardonnay has aromas of with golden apple. Fresh acidity brightens this toasted oak, butterscotch and vanilla that carry over Di Giovanna 2013 Grillo (Terre Siciliane). up and it ends on a note of bitter almond. Terlato to the palate along with yellow apple and citrus. 87 Made from organically grown grapes, this Wines International. —K.O. You’ll also notice the warmth of evident alcohol on bright wine offers sensations of peach blossom, abv: 12.5% Price: $27 the midpalate. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. green apple and white peach accented with hints abv: 13.5% Price: $35 of white pepper. Fresh acidity gives it a crisp fin- Duca di Salaparuta 2012 Kados Grillo (Sicil- ish while a saline note signals the close. Regal Wine 89 ia). Full-bodied but elegant , it leads with Planeta 2013 La Segreta Bianco (Sicilia). A Imports Inc. —K.O. aromas of white spring flowers and stone fruit. The 87 blend of Grecanico, Chardonnay, Viognier abv: 13% Price: $18 round palate delvers juicy white peach and citrus and Fiano, this opens with a fragrance of honey- notes alongside fresh acidity. Corvo USA. —K.O. suckle, stone fruit and citrus. The juicy palate of- Spadafora 2013 Alhambra Bianco (Terre Si- abv: 13% Price: $25 fers lemon zest, nectarine and white pear alongside 87 ciliane). It boasts zesty lemon, white peach bright acidity. Palm Bay International. —K.O. and exotic fruit flavors. The juicy fruit palate is Baglio del Cristo di Campobello 2013 Lalùci abv: NA Price: $14 restrained by crisp acidity. Sip this as an apéritif 88 Grillo (Sicilia). Aromas of honeysuckle, hay or pair it with light appetizers. Montcalm Wine Im- and stone fruit carry over to the palate along with Spadafora 2011 Schietto Chardonnay (Sicil- porters. —K.O. peach, green apple and citrus. Fresh acidity leaves a 87 ia). Aged partly in barriques, it offers aro- abv: 12% Price: $16 clean, crisp finish. Maritime Wine Trading Collec- mas of yellow apples, toast and butterscotch that tive. —K.O. carry over to the palate along with lemon drop, oak, Stemmari 2012 Dalila (Terre Siciliane). A abv: 13% Price: $27 toast and coffee bean. You’ll also notice the alcohol. 87 blend of 80% Grillo and 20% Viognier, this Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. conveys heady aromas of fragrant white flowers, ex- Curto 2013 Poiano Insolia (Sicilia). Opening abv: 14% Price: $35 otic fruit and apricot. The palate delivers rich yel- 88 aromas include white spring flowers and low peach, mango and citrus with a hint of sweet apples. The juicy palate offers citrus, exotic fruit Feudi del Pisciotto 2011 Alberta Ferretti vanilla. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. —K.O. and tart green apple alongside soft but refreshing 86 Chardonnay (Sicilia). Dominated by wood, abv: 13% Price: $14 acidity. It ends on a note of white almond. Premium it offers heavy oak and toasted sensations with a Brands. Best Buy. —K.O. hint of butterscotch alongside fresh acidity, but it Tenuta Rapitalà 2013 Piano Maltese (Terre abv: 12.5% Price: $13 lacks fruit richness. Vias Imports. —K.O. 87 Siciliane). For full review see page 11. abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 13% Price: $13 Tenuta di Castellaro 2011 Pomice (Sicilia). 88 This blend of 60% Malvasia delle Lipari, Gurra di Mare 2011 Tirsat (Sicilia). Made Cantine Gulino 2012 Pretiosa Albanello 30% Carricante and 10% other native grapes fea- 86 from a 50-50 blend of Chardonnay and 86 (Terre Siciliane). Made from the native Al- tures aromas of subtle oak, coconut and hints of Viognier, it features aromas of yellow peach, apricot banello grape, this concentrated wine has yellow exotic fruit. The round palate delivers sweet nec- and a hint of baked bread. The palate is less expres- flower and exotic fruit aromas. The dense, slightly tarine, peach and juicy tropical fruit accented with sive however, with a thick honey-like consistency sweet and one-dimensional palate offers lemon Mediterranean herbs. Porto Vino Italiano. —K.O. but not much flavor. Vias Imports. —K.O. drop, mature apricot and nectarine flavors that end abv: 13.5% Price: $30 abv: 12.5% Price: $26 on a sugary note. Conquista Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $20 Tenuta Rapitalà 2013 Grillo (Sicilia). A sun- Valle dell’Acate 2013 Tenuta Ibidini Insolia 88 ny and polished wine, it unfolds with ripe 86 (Sicilia). Aromas suggest citrus and stone Spadafora 2012 Grillo (Terre Siciliane). Light citrus and stone fruit sensations that carry over fruit. The juicy palate delivers white peach, green 86 and crisp, this steely wine offers sensations to the savory palate along with saline and a hint apple and a hint of lemon zest alongside soft but of white flowers, zesty citrus, white peach and slate. of mineral. The juicy fruit flavors are balanced by It’s simple but well made with fresh acidity that

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gives it a clean, bright finish. Montcalm Wine Im- banana alongside bright acidity. Traditional Wine and tropical fruit carry over to the round palate. porters. —K.O. Innovations LLC. —K.O. The juicy fruit flavors are supported by fresh acid- abv: 14% Price: $23 abv: 12% Price: $11 ity, giving this a clean finish. Multiple U.S. import- ers. —K.O. Stemmari 2013 Pinot Grigio (Terre Siciliane). Destro 2012 Nausìca (Terre Siciliane). In- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 86 This pretty wine from Sicily starts with 84 tense tutti fruity aromas recall grape-fla- white floral and citrus aromas. The fresh, fruity pal- vored chewing gum. The palate is less expressive Fazio 2013 Levantio Insolia (Erice). Aromas ate offers tart green apple, lemon zest and a hint of but muddled, offering sensations of thyme and rock 86 recall cantaloupe and peach. The fresh, nectarine. Simple but well made, this wine would candy that finish abruptly. Panebianco. —K.O. simple palate offers subdued tropical fruit alongside make a refreshing apéritif or try it with light pas- abv: 12.5% Price: $29 bright acidity. Sip this with light appetizers or pair ta salads. Prestige Wine Imports Corp. Best Buy. it with pasta topped with fresh tomatoes. Pazzione —K.O. Feudi del Pisciotto 2012 Baglio del Sole Inzo- Imports. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $10 84 lia (Terre Siciliane). This simple wine holds abv: 12.5% Price: $13 somewhat oxidized aromas of caramelized orange Cantine Gulino 2013 Fania (Terre Siciliane). slices and flint that carry over to the palate along 85 A blend of 60% Fiano and 40% Inzolia, it with lemon-lime. Vias Imports. Best Buy. —K.O. ROSATO delivers fruity aromas of pineapple, green melon abv: 12.5% Price: $8 and peach. The simple palate is rather lean, with Spadafora 2012 Nero d’Avola Rosato (Terre notes of green apple and citrus alongside racy acid- Feudi del Pisciotto 2012 Baglio del Sole 86 Siciliane). A fruity fragrance of berry and ity. Conquista Imports. —K.O. 84 (Terre Siciliane). Opening aromas recall del- cherry carries over to the palate along with wa- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 icate white spring flowers. The simple, one-dimen- termelon and a hint of spice. Its refreshing finish sional palate isn’t very expressive but offers subtle make this an ideal apéritif or pair it with spicy pasta Di Giovanna 2012 Helios Bianco (Terre Sicil- citrus and stone fruit alongside crisp acidity. Vias dishes. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O. 85 iane). Made from organically farmed grapes, Imports. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $23 this blend of 70% Grillo and 30% Sauvignon has a abv: 12.5% Price: $8 subtle nose of citrus and stone fruit. The palate of- fers restrained lemon-lime notes but not much fruit Tresa 2013 Purato (Terre Siciliane). Made RED WINE richness. You’ll also notice evident alcohol sensa- 84 with organically grown Catarratto and Pi- tions on the close. Regal Wine Imports Inc. —K.O. not Grigio grapes, this offers intense honeysuckle Argiolas 2009 Is Solinas Carignano (Isola abv: 13.5% Price: $20 aromas that recall room freshener. The lean, simple 87 dei Nuraghi). Made from native grape Cari- palate offers tart green apple and a hint of citrus. gnano, this Sardinian bottling opens with aromas Fazio 2013 U Cantu Catarratto (Terre Sicil- Vias Imports. —K.O. that recall bell pepper, black fruit and Mediter- 85 iane). Green apple, stone fruit and citrus abv: 12.5% Price: $12 ranean brush. The palate delivers blackberry and aromas carry over to the palate with lemon-lime. red currant along with baking spices and a licorice This easy-drinking wine would make a nice apéritif note. While it starts off strong, it finishes abruptly. or pair it with lightly seasoned pastas dishes. Pazzi- OTHER WHITE WINES Winebow. —K.O. one Imports. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Argiolas 2012 Iselis (Isola dei Nuraghi). This 90 blend of Nasco and Vermentino from Sar- Fazio 2013 U Marusu Grillo (Terre Siciliane). dinia leads with heady floral aromas of honeysuckle SLOVENIA 85 Sensations recall peach, apple, citrus and and spring flowers. The palate delivers rich white hay. The juicy fruit palate is balanced by fresh acid- peach, melon and tangerine peel. Crisp, refreshing WHITE WINES ity that leaves a quenching finish. Pazzione Imports. acidity reins in the lush flavors, lending a polished Best Buy. —K.O. feel. Winebow. —K.O. Kabaj 2011 Ravan Sauvignonasse (Goriska abv: 12.5% Price: $10 abv: 14% Price: $20 90 Brda). Ravan is the local Slovenian name for the Friulano grape. This tasty wine is medium gold Natale Verga 2013 Grecanico (Terre Sicil- Terre di Giurfo 2013 Suliccenti Insolia (Vit- to dark straw in color with aromas of honeysuckle, 85 iane). For full review see page 14. Best Buy. 87 toria). Made with native grape Insolia, this passion fruit and freshly baked apple pie. The fin- abv: 12% Price: $8 savory wine has floral aromas of jasmine and orange ish is pleasantly astringent with lingering flavors of blossom as well as a distinct nutty sensation. The hazelnut. It’s perfect to pair with game birds such as Occhipinti 2012 SP68 Bianco (Terre Sicil- palate offers lemon-lime and restrained tropical duck or quail. Blue Danube Wine Co. —J.J. 85 iane). Made from Moscato d’Alessandria fruit alongside fresh acidity. Wirtz Beverage. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 and Albanello grapes, this wine’s intense honey- abv: 13% Price: $15 suckle and jasmine aromas recall air freshener. The Kabaj 2011 Sivi Pinot Pinot Gris (Goriska palate is muddled, with the same overly sweet floral Fazio 2013 Aegades Grillo (Erice). Aromas 89 Brda). Sivi Pinot is the Slovenian name for sensations alongside smoky mineral and a bitter, 87 include exotic fruit and a whiff of acacia Pinot Gris and this will delight oenophiles looking nutty finish. Louis/Dressner Selections. —K.O. flower. The fresh, linear palate offers lemon zest for a new orange wine. It’s pinkish brown in color abv: 12% Price: $30 and tropical fruit lightly accented with a hint of sea due to two years of barrel aging and has aromas of salt. Sip this as summertime apéritif or pair it with peach cobbler and freshly baked piecrust. Smooth Orion Wines 2013 È 100 Per Cento Unoaked lightly seasoned seafood dishes. Pazzione Imports. in the mouth, it discloses pronounced flavors of 85 Chardonnay (Terre Siciliane). Simple but —K.O. custard and crème brûlée. Think about pairing it well made, it opens with a fruit fragrance of peach abv: 12.5% Price: $13 with some of your strongest and ripest cheeses. Blue and golden apple. The palate offers pineapple and Danube Wine Co. —J.J. Valle dell’Acate 2013 Insolia (Vittoria). Fruit abv: 12.5% Price: $25 87 aromas that recall citrus, nectarine, peach

34 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 Kabaj 2011 Rebula (Goriska Brda). Rebula is of lemon rind, citrus zest and grapefruit delight Miloš 2009 Plavac Mali (Peljesac). This 89 known in Slovenia as “The Queen Of Brda.” your palate. Pair this wine with freshly shucked oys- 88 garnet-colored wine conveys aromas of This orange wine has aromas of toasted hazelnuts, ters on a warm summer’s day. Vinum USA Inc. —J.J. cranberry, black cherry and bramble. Flavors of black Chinese tea and mulled citrus rind. It’s fer- abv: 12.6% Price: $18 dark cherry, cranberry and black plum have a strong mented with its skins and barrel aged for two years. acidic backbone and a long finish. Blue Danube A pleasant nutty oxidative character characterizes Trapan 2012 Ponente Malvazija (Istria). Wine Co. —J.J. the finish. It would make any wine geek proud to 90 From the village of Sisan in southern Is- abv: 13.8% Price: $27 pair it with a juicy steak. Blue Danube Wine Co. tria, this wine has enticing notes of lemon blossom, —J.J. Mediterranean herbs and white peach in its bou- Vuina 2009 Dry Red Plavac Mali (Dalmatian abv: 12.5% Price: $25 quet. In the mouth crisp acidity accompanies fla- 88 Coast). Aromas of cherry cola, brown bak- vors of lemon curd and Granny Smith apple. A clean ing spices, and cinnamon lead to flavors of black finish invites you in for another sip. Winebow. —J.J. cherry, black plum conserves, and dried mission ROSÉ abv: 13% Price: $21 figs. There’s a nice level of acidity and a persistent tannic finish. Terraneo Merchants. —J.J. Batić 2012 Semi-Dry Rosé (Vipavska Dolina). Coronica 2012 Malvasia (Istria). Salt air, abv: 13.5% Price: $19 88 Medium to dark pink in color, this semi-dry 88 lemon pith and lemon blossom lead in this rosé has aromas of rose petals, freshly picked cher- 100% Malvasia Istriana. A wave of citrus and pro- ries and cherry blossoms. It has just the right touch nounced juicy grapefruit flavors refreshes the mid- TERAN of sweetness and flavors of early summer straw- palate. The finish is zesty and lively. Blue Danube berries and dried rose hips. In the mouth it shows Wine Co. —J.J. Kozlović 2011 Teran (Istria). Aromas include roundness and the finish shines with pronounced abv: 13.3% Price: $20 90 black cherry, cranberry, pomegranate, astringency. Blue Danube Wine Co. —J.J. bramble and a light touch of eucalyptus. It’s fruit abv: 12.5% Price: $23 Piquentum 2011 Blanc Malvasia (Istria). Aro- forward and juicy on the lips yet pleasantly re- 87 mas of white peach, nectarine and vanilla strained in the midpalate. It would be an enjoyable bean join fresh fruit flavors backed by nuances of wine at a barbecue. Vinum USA Inc. —J.J. RED WINES caramel, vanilla and crème brûlée. There’s nice abv: 13.9% Price: $18 round mouthfeel and a creamy yet clean finish. Blue Sanctum 2011 Pinot Noir (Štajerska). Garnet Danube Wine Co. —J.J. Trapan 2011 Terra Mare Teran (Istria). Bril- 88 in color with aromas of black cherry and abv: 13.3% Price: $20 90 liant garnet in color, it has aromas of cherry cranberry juice, it has a strong acidic backbone with vanilla, cherry pie, cranberry juice and pomegran- flavors of black cherry and red plums. A bit linear ate that transfer seamlessly onto the palate. It’s yet pleasant in the mouth, this wine would stand up ROSÉ medium bodied with a pleasant acidic backbone to your spiciest stew. Vinum USA Inc. —J.J. in the midpalate. The finish is long and luxurious abv: 14% Price: $18 Trapan 2012 Rubi Rosé (Istria). Reminiscent with a surprising splash of cherry vanilla at the end. 89 of a pink sky at sunset, this easy-drinking Winebow. —J.J. Pullus 2011 Dry Red Pinot Noir (Štajerska). rosé delivers classic aromas of strawberries and abv: 14% Price: $33 87 Dark cherry to garnet in color, it offers notes cream. A blend of mostly Teran with Merlot, Syrah, of blackberry, pomegranate and black cherry in its and Cabernet Sauvignon, it has flavors of red rasp- Coronica 2008 Gran Teran (Istria). Grown in bouquet. A strong acidic backbone and persistent berry, citrus blossom and red plums. A strong back- 89 the mineral rich red soils of Istria, it has en- cranberry flavor at the finish make this a wine that bone of minerality contributes to a crisp clean fin- ticing aromas of fresh black raspberry, black cherry calls out for food. Vinum USA Inc. —J.J. ish, making it a lovely summer rosé. Winebow. —J.J. and black plum. Rich and full-bodied in the mouth, abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $21 flavors recall fresh plums and ripe cranberries. Blue Danube Wine Co. —J.J. Klabjan 2008 Refosk (Slovenska Istra). An abv: 13.4% Price: $45 86 easy-drinking wine, it has pronounced aro- PLAVAC MALI mas and flavors of cherry vanilla soda, blackberry Piquentum 2011 Rouge Teran (Istria). Pur- preserves and just a touch of menthol. Vinum USA Miloš 2006 Stagnum Plavac Mali (Peljesac). 87 plish garnet in color, it has aromas of black Inc. —J.J. 90 Cranberry, pomegranate and a touch of fruits and just a whiff of menthol. It is refreshing abv: 13% Price: $18 bramble are found in the nose. The palate reveals and fruit forward on the palate with a hint of eu- fresh fruit flavors of sour red cherry, cranberry and calyptus in the finish. Blue Danube Wine Co. —J.J. red plum with a pleasant acidic backbone. Drink abv: 12.5% Price: $25 CROATIA now or hold through 2016. Blue Danube Wine Co. —J.J. MALVASIA abv: 15% Price: $57 OTHER RED WINES

Benvenuti 2012 Malvazija (Istria). Heady Carić 2008 Plovac Polški Plavac Mali (Hvar). Enjingi 2009 Barrique Zweigelt (Kutjevo). 90 aromas of lemon blossom, jasmine and or- 88 From the island of Hvar, this wine has aro- 90 Produced by a talented winemaker in the ange peel draw you into the glass. A crisp backbone mas of Chinese tea and cranberry juice. There’s also Kutjevo region, it has brilliant ruby color plus en- of lime zest is supported by healthy minerality and a a pleasant feral note in the complex bouquet. It has ticing aromas of purple violets, lavender and freshly refreshing finish. Terraneo Merchants. —J.J. flavors of cranberry juice and black cherry tart with picked red cherries. There’s great mouthfeel, art- abv: 13.2% Price: $17 grippy tannins and a persistent finish. Blue Danube fully woven flavors of red berries and black plums, Wine Co. —J.J. and chalky tannins. Vinum USA Inc. —J.J. Kozlović 2012 Malvazija (Istria). An aromat- abv: 14.9% Price: $27 abv: 14.2% Price: $25 90 ic mélange of lemon custard, apple pie and salted caramel intrigue your nose while crisp flavors

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Piquentum 2011 Terre Refošk (Istria). This tobacco leaf linger in the persistent finish. Grapes & brightness at the end. Kosher. Palm Bay Interna- 86 100% Refošk has aromas of pomegranate Barley, LLC . Best Buy. —J.J. tional. —M.D. juice, sour cherry pie and just a touch of barnyard abv: 14% Price: $14 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 scent in the complex bouquet. A bit austere on the palate, the dominant fruit flavors are black plum Chateau Burgozone 2011 Pinot Noir (Danube and dried red cherry. Think about giving this wine 89 River Plains). This garnet-colored wine has ROSÉ a few minutes in the refrigerator and pair it with aromas of blackberry and boysenberry with second- grilled sausages. Blue Danube Wine Co. —J.J. ary whiffs of tobacco leaf and saddle leather. Flavors Recanati 2012 Rosé (Galilee). For full re- abv: 13.4% Price: $25 of cherry cola, black raspberry and black cherry 90 view see page 12. Best Buy. characterize the midpalate, followed by a soft tan- abv: 12.5% Price: $15 nic finish. The House Of Burgundy.Best Buy. —J.J. OTHER EUROPE abv: 13.5% Price: $14 CABERNET SAUVIGNON RED WINES ROMANIA Or Haganuz 2010 Namura Single Vineyard SERBIA 91 Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Gali- Cramele Recas 2013 Dreambird Pinot Noir lee). For full review see page 8. Budimir 2007 Svb Rosa (Župa). Made from 86 (Viile Timisului). Bright cherry red in color, abv: 14.5% Price: $49 89 60% Prokupac and 40% Cabernet Sauvi- it offers aromas of blackberry, cranberry and freshly gnon, this blend has warm aromas of brown spices, picked cherries. Flavors include blackberries, red Carmel 2010 Single Vineyard Sumaka Vine- worn saddle leather, black pepper and red fruits. It’s raspberries and sour cherry pie. It’s a bit light when 88 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). Opening bold on the palate with flavors of cranberry, spice it comes to body but it has a refreshing level of acid- with a nose of pure cherry with a trace of violet, this and pomegranate. Winebow. —J.J. ity in the clean finish. Tri-Vin Imports.Best Buy. wine has flavors of cherry, cranberry, fennel bulb abv: 13.5% Price: $42 —J.J. and aniseed. Tongue-coating tannins and smooth abv: 12.5% Price: $7 mouthfeel culminate in a zippy finish. Kosher. Royal Budimir 2007 Triada Prokupac (Župa). Wine Corporation. —M.D. 88 Made from 100% Prokupac, it has fruity abv: 14.5% Price: $NA aromas of black berry and black plum with lifted ISRAEL notes of black tea, Christmas baking spices and pep- Tabor 2010 Limited Edition Cabernet Sauvi- permint. Flavors of cranberry, double-brewed Chi- WHITE WINES 88 gnon (Galilee). Inky garnet in the glass, this nese tea and blackberry lead to a long, juicy finish. wine offers aromas of cherry, pomegranate, and ju- Winebow. —J.J. Golan Heights Winery 2012 Gilgal White niper berry. Enjoyable flavors of strawberry, pome- abv: 12.8% Price: $22 90 Riesling (Galilee). Fragrances of peach and granate, and smoked meat are joined by a healthy grapefruit set the scene for flavors of white peach dose of menthol. Fortunately, silky tannins and a Agrina 2012 Portuguiser (Fruška Gora). This and lemon peel with soft touches of menthol and bright finish keep the taste profile from heading too 87 semi-dry red wine is garnet in color, with a tangerine rind finish. This wine is smooth on the far into the cool end of the spectrum. Kosher. Royal aromas of red cherry and red raspberry plus lifted palate with a nice combination of creaminess and Wine Corporation. —M.D. top notes of eucalyptus and mint. In the mouth, lemon-fresh acidity. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. abv: 14.6% Price: $NA flavors of red raspberry and black currant shine Best Buy. —M.D. brightly before the juicy finish. Winebow. —J.J. abv: 13% Price: $15 Tabor 2010 Adama Cabernet Sauvignon (Gal- abv: 13% Price: $16 87 ilee). Aromas of raspberry, black cherry and Golan Heights Winery 2012 Hermon (Gali- a hint of jalapeño lead the way for flavors of black 90 lee). Refreshing from the first whiff of green cherry, Dr Pepper, eucalyptus and butterscotch. De- MACEDONIA apple, fuchsia, and almond blossom, it has flavors spite good acid balance and a bright finish, eucalyp- of peach, eucalyptus, green apple, and white flow- tus notes outweigh fruit flavors. Kosher. Royal Wine Stobi 2011 Macedon Pinot Noir (Tikves). This ers. Harmonious tannins persist to the bright note Corporation. —M.D. 87 garnet-colored Pinot Noir is named after Al- of the vanilla custard and orange zest finish, under- abv: 14.4% Price: $NA exander the Great—The Macedon. It has aromas of cut by strong minerality. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. cherry and vanilla and bright top notes of fresh red Best Buy. —M.D. raspberry. Medium bodied, it delivers fresh flavors abv: 13.5% Price: $14 RED BLENDS of cranberry and cherry in the finish. August Wine Group. —J.J. Golan Heights Winery 2013 Moscato (Gali- Golan Heights Winery 2010 Yarden T2 Touri- abv: 13% Price: $15 89 lee). Pleasing aromas of honeysuckle, apri- 92 ga Nacional-Tinta Cão (Galilee). Inky violet- cot and rose petal give way to invigorating sweet red in color, this blend offers vivid aromas of cran- flavors of ripe peach, rose petal, orange blossom and berry, pomegranate and aniseed. Flavors of black BULGARIA honey. It’s a light dessert wine with good acidity. cherry, blueberry pie, caramel and a dash of salinity Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. Best Buy. —M.D. endure through the lingering finish, against a back- Bulgariana 2008 Imperial (Thracian Valley). abv: 7% Price: $14 drop of grippy tannins. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. 89 Comprised of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Editors’ Choice. —M.D. Sauvignon, 5% Rubin, and 5% Mavrud, it offers Recanati 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Shomron). abv: 15% Price: $32 aromas of blackberry, cherry vanilla and cinnamon. 85 A nose of tangerine with just a touch of In the mouth are generous flavors of black cherry, petrol gives way to flavors of lemon, toast and bit- Galil Mountain 2010 Yiron (Galilee). A blend black plum and tart cranberry. Saddle leather and ter almond. Although not perfectly integrated, this 91 of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, wine offers a lengthy cooling finish with a splash of 6% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot, this wine offers aromas of cherry, brambles, vanilla and laven-

36 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 der. Mildly chewy yet smooth tannins persist among mouth with an interesting juxtaposition of fruit and flavors of cherry, blueberry, violet, slate and cran- OTHER RED WINES savory notes. Super-soft, almost invisible tannins berry. There is a nice play between fruit and floral give way to a smooth finish hallmarked by notes of flavors, with fruit winning out on the fresh finish. Tabor 2010 Adama Merlot (Galilee). For full fresh minerality. The House Of Burgundy. Editors’ Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. Best Buy. —M.D. 93 review see page 5. Editors’ Choice. Choice. —M.D. abv: 15.5% Price: $14 abv: 14.3% Price: $16 abv: 14% Price: $33

Golan Heights Winery 2012 Mount Hermon Tulip Winery 2010 Mostly Cabernet Franc (Ju- Kavaklidere 2009 Prestige Kalecik Karasi 91 Red (Galilee). A nose of cherry, violet and 91 dean Hills). For full review see page 8. 90 (Ankara). Deep ruby in the glass, it offers flint cedes to juicy flavors of pomegranate, cherry, abv: 14% Price: $35 aromas of black cherry and butterscotch. Smooth, salted popcorn, lavender and sage. Evenly weighted seamless tannins encase flavors of black cherry, tannins and acidity make for good mouthfeel and Golan Heights Winery 2009 Yarden Pinot cherry cola, herbes du Provence and orange zest. a graceful finish. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc.Best 89 Noir (Galilee). Aromas of cherry and white The well-integrated flavors hold on through the Buy. —M.D. chocolate with a touch of shale open to flavors of smooth finish, which is punctuated by a closing abv: 13.9% Price: $13 strawberry, pomegranate and mocha with a splash burst of mint. The House Of Burgundy. —M.D. of ouzo. A web of soft tannins and symmetry be- abv: 14% Price: $40 Galil Mountain 2011 Ela (Upper Galilee). tween fruit and sophisticated herbal notes lead to a 90 Blended from 73% Syrah, 23% Barbera and pleasantly bright finish. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. Kavaklidere 2010 Pendore Boðazkere (Ae- 4% Petit Verdot, this easy-drinking red also has a —M.D. 89 gean). Aromas of raspberry, caramel and sophisticated, grown-up undertone, with aromas of abv: 14% Price: $28 toast introduce flavors of pomegranate, strawber- blackberry, juniper and Mediterranean herbs. Fla- ry, cherry preserves, vanilla and toast. There is a vors of cherry, pomegranate, mint, mocha, butter- Bazelet HaGolan 2010 Merlot (Galilee). Aro- nice interplay of tannins and acidity, with supple scotch and oregano are wrapped in a layer of supple 88 mas of fruits of the wood, clove and men- mouthfeel and a fresh, clean finish. The House Of tannins, culminating in a radiant finish. Kosher. thol pave the way for flavors of blackberry, clove, Burgundy. —M.D. Yarden Wines, Inc. —M.D. and eucalyptus. Cooling herb flavors predominate abv: 13% Price: $33 abv: 14% Price: $20 over fruit, and the soft finish offers a burst of anis- ette with a bright cherry splash. Kosher. Royal Wine Suvla 2010 Kirte Cabernet Sauvignon-Syr- Galil Mountain 2010 Alon (Upper Galilee). Corporation. —M.D. 87 ah-Petit Verdot (Thrace). Aromas of black 90 Made from 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% abv: 15.2% Price: $NA cherry and green pepper lead into flavors of cherry, Syrah, 8% Petit Verdot and 6% Cabernet Franc, menthol, pickled jalapeño, oregano and lavender. this blend has a rich nose of black cherry with Tannins mildly outweigh acidity. Although all the strong touches of minerality. Flavors of black cher- LEBANON pieces of the puzzle are evident on the palate, some- ry, menthol, rose petal, violet and a whisper of clove how they don’t fit together perfectly. Suvla USA are enmeshed in velvety tannins. The smooth finish WHITE WINE LLC. —M.D. is enhanced by a last-second dose of intense acidity. abv: 14% Price: $17 Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. —M.D. Ixsir 2012 Grande Reserve (Lebanon). A abv: 15.5% Price: $20 84 blend of 60% Viognier, 25% Sauvignon Suvla 2010 Sur Single Vineyard Bozokbag Blanc and 15% Chardonnay, this has aromas of 87 Barrel Aged (Thrace). A blend of 50% Mer- Golan Heights Winery 2012 Mount Hermon yellow peach and flax seed. Flavors of ripe peach, lot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc 90 Indigo (Galilee). Deep garnet in color, this apricot and vanilla continue into the cooling finish, and 2% Petit Verdot, this deep garnet-colored wine blend has aromas of cherry cola, black cherry and which lacks brightness and is a little too chewy for has aromas of blackberry, brambles and green pep- butterscotch. This smooth, well-balanced wine of- its own good. Fine Terroirs LLC. —M.D. per. Flavors of black raspberry, cranberry and tart fers flavors of blueberry, black cherry, caramel, tof- abv: 13.5% Price: $25 cherry with touches of green pepper are enmeshed fee and Chinese five-spice powder. Almost imper- in heavy tannins that persist into the tart, chewy ceptible tannins yield to an invigorating finish with finish. Suvla USA LLC. —M.D. a touch of caramel. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc. Best ROSÉ abv: 14.5% Price: $29 Buy. —M.D. abv: 13.9% Price: $13 Ixsir 2012 Altitudes Rosé (Lebanon). Me- 88 dium salmon-colored in the glass, this rosé ROSÉS Montefiore 2012 Malbec-Shiraz-Petite Sirah has a nose of tangerine and toffee. Flavors of tanger- 90 (Judean Hills). For full review see page 10. ine, butterscotch and clove maintain a nice balance Suvla 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon-Cabernet abv: 14% Price: $20 between spice and fruit flavors. The mellow finish 88 Franc Rosé (Thrace). Pale blush to the eye features a dash of zesty acidity and a final wash of with a soft bouquet of apple and peach, this wine Or Haganuz 2011 Marom Series Hillel and Dan butterscotch. Fine Terroirs LLC. —M.D. has flavors of grapefruit, aniseed and menthol with 88 Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon-Cabernet abv: 13% Price: $20 sophisticated savory undertones. The rounded fin- Franc-Shiraz (Galilee). This deep violet-red blend ish offers just the right touch of brightness. Suvla offers aromas of black cherry, spearmint and free- USA LLC. —M.D. sia. A bright entry fades to tongue-coating tannins, TURKEY abv: 14.3% Price: $17 with flavors of black cherry, menthol and orange zest. Slightly chewy tannins linger through the fin- RED WINES Suvla 2012 Karasakiz Rosé (Thrace). Pale ish, where they are joined by a lustrous vein of acid- 87 apricot in color, this wine offers aromas of ity. Kosher. Royal Wine Corporation. —M.D. Kavaklidere 2010 Pendore Öküzgözü (Ae- grapefruit, lavender and anise. Flavors of peach, abv: 14% Price: $NA 92 gean). A nose of cherry, white peach and apple and fennel bulb lead to a surprisingly smooth jalapeño sets the stage. Next, flavors of cherry, plum, sage and thyme work their way through the

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finish with rich notes of fennel and a splash of lem- finally subtle sweet spice. Cape Classics.Editors’ Ernst Gouws & Co. 2012 Steen Chenin Blanc on zest. Suvla USA LLC. —M.D. Choice. —L.B. 84 (Stellenbosch). Light and approachable, abv: 13% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $25 this offers friendly aromas and flavors of grass, pear, gooseberry and lemon-lime acidity, ending short Bellingham 2012 The Bernard Series Limited and crisp. Drink up. Vinum International. —L.B. SOUTH AFRICA 90 Release Old Vine Chenin Blanc (Coastal Re- abv: 11% Price: $14 gion). A brilliant gold color in the glass, this opens CHENIN BLANC with rich aromas of grilled apple, buttered toast, ripe melon and a touch of honey. The round, lush SAUVIGNON BLANC Ken Forrester 2011 The FMC Chenin Blanc texture is balanced by lifting acidity, which also 93 (Stellenbosch). This is a rich, well-balanced keeps the ripe stone fruit and sweet spice flavors Reyneke 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Western and layered white, with lots of aging potential. clean and lifted on the lingering finish. Drink now– 90 Cape). This balanced and attractive wine Notes of red apple, peach, melon and orange blos- 2016. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. —L.B. opens with aromas of white peach, gooseberry, dried som mingle with spicy accents of toasted brioche, abv: 14% Price: $22 grass, white florals and a touch of toasted almond. clove and vanilla bean. It’s medium weight and crisp The flavors are ripe and the palate fresh, with good in acidity, with a long, evolving finish that ends dec- Simonsig 2012 Chenin Avec Chêne Chenin definition and purity. A hint of yellow apple lingers adent yet elegant. Drink now–2020. Cape Classics. 90 Blanc (Stellenbosch). Beautiful aromas lead on the close. Drink up. Indigo Wine Group. —L.B. Cellar Selection. —L.B. the bouquet of this wine, a bright and fruity mix of abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 14% Price: $65 tropical fruit, ripe pear, white melon, sweet orange and a touch of honeycomb. The well-balanced, Jardin 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Stellenbosch). DeMorgenzon 2012 Chenin Blanc (Stellen- medium-weight palate offers clean notes of melon, 88 This is lively and bright, with opening aro- 92 bosch). A complex and layered wine, this is Anjou pear and clementine, followed by a clean, mas of gooseberry, green plum, fresh grass and lime always one of South Africa’s top Chenin Blancs. The lightly spiced finish. Drink now–2016. Quintessen- rind. The light-weight palate offers flavors of crisp bouquet opens with notes of chalk, lanolin, toasted tial Wines. —L.B. stone fruit and lime oil, with a brisk acidity that apple skin, blanched almond and clove-studded or- abv: 13.5% Price: $35 carries through to the clean finish. Drink now. USA ange peel. The palate is toasty, but well integrated; Wine West. —L.B. the apple, apricot and melon fruit core marry har- Avondale 2011 Anima Chenin Blanc (Paarl). abv: 13% Price: $15 moniously with the wood and sweet spice charac- 88 This is a rich and attractive Chenin, with teristics. Round and smooth in texture, but with initial scents of honeycomb, yellow flowers, honey- Spier 2012 Vintage Selection Sauvignon ample acidity to keep the mouthfeel fresh and the drizzled apple and soft pear. Round and lush, the 88 Blanc (Coastal Region). Here’s a clean and finish bright. Drink now–2017. Cape Classics.Edi - flavors are ripe and mouthfilling, with flavors of fresh selection, with bright citrus, grass, melon tors’ Choice. —L.B. grilled apple, honeydew, orange oil, sweet spice and rind and pineapple core aromas. White peach and abv: 14% Price: $35 toast that linger through the finish. The Wild Grape. nectarine flavors flesh out the medium-weight pal- —L.B. ate, with ample acidity to keep the finish crisp and Cederberg 2011 Five Generations Chenin Blanc abv: 13.5% Price: $30 lively. Drink now. Total Wine & More. —L.B. 91 (Cederberg). A delicate, floral white, this of- abv: 13% Price: $18 fers immediate aromas of orange blossom and hon- Raats Family 2012 Original Unwooded Chen- eysuckle that accent the white melon and apple 88 in Blanc (Coastal Region). A crisp, clean and Thelema 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Stellen- fruit tones. The linear palate is well cut with laser- direct selection, this offers great purity and defini- 87 bosch). An herbaceous selection, this leads like precision through the green plum and apple tion. Bright aromas of lime, white melon and apple with aromas of just-dried grass and yellow florals flavors, followed by a kiss of toast on finish. Banks carry through to the brisk, well-balanced palate, that are coupled with notes of green plum, melon Channel. —L.B. with faint hints of hay and ginger-like spice on the rind and lime pith. The medium-weight palate is abv: 13.5% Price: $30 close. Drink now. Cape Classics. —L.B. lifted by ample acidity, although the finish ends ripe abv: 13.5% Price: $15 and fruity. Drink up. Cape Classics. —L.B. Jean Daneel 2012 Signature Chenin Blanc abv: 13.5% Price: $20 91 (Western Cape). Toasty peach and guava Radford Dale 2012 The Renaissance of Chen- notes unfold on the bouquet, followed by second- 88 in Blanc (Stellenbosch). Sultry, smoky oak Beau Joubert 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Stel- ary hints of orange essence, woody spice, peach pit accents the ripe fruit core, full of apricot, peach and 84 lenbosch). This is a ripe and lush white, and honeycomb. Round and smooth, this shows a pear aromas and flavors. Notes of vanilla custard with bold aromas and flavors of mango, papaya certain decadence on the palate. Lush tropical and and orange oil add depth to the medium-weight pal- and pineapple. The palate is round and a bit flat, melon notes are spiced by touches of vanilla and ate, with brisk acidity that shines on the long, spicy followed by a short finish. Drink up. Starry Night sweet spice but finish clean and mouthwatering. finish. Drink now–2016. USA Wine West. —L.B. Winery. —L.B. Drink now–2016. Z Wines USA. —L.B. abv: 12.5% Price: $NA abv: 13.5% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 MAN Vintners 2012 (Steen) Chenin Blanc Raats Family 2011 Old Vine Chenin Blanc (Stel- 87 (Coastal Region). This is a bright and easy- VIOGNIER 91 lenbosch). Ripe and forward, this attractive drinking selection that opens with scents of green and well-balanced wine is delicious now but also apple, pear and lemon-lime citrus. There’s a slight Bon Cap 2010 Made with Organically Grown shows the stuffing to evolve over the next few years. weight to the palate, but it’s immediately lifted by 88 Grapes Viognier (Eilandia). A rich and Complex yet focused, notes of apple, yellow melon, lively, cleansing acidity followed by a mouthwater- smoky Viognier, this opens with aromas of grilled citrus zest, toasted brioche and beeswax mix har- ing finish. Drink now. Vineyard Brands.Best Buy. yellow peach, melon and orange oil. The palate of- moniously, ending with a long and evolving finish —L.B. fers flavors of toasted brioche and almond to com- that transitions from bright fruit to lush oak and abv: 13.5% Price: $11 plement the ripe fruit core. Drink now. Indigo Wine Group. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $15

38 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 Diemersfontein 2010 Reserve Viognier (Wel- Thelema 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellen- 87 lington). It strikes an interesting balance ROSÉS 91 bosch). Attractive scents of whole clove and between toasty notes of nuts and baking spices and cinnamon stick add depth to the black fruit core of earthy hints of white flowers and fresh herbs, all Boschendal 2013 The Rose Garden Rosé this wine. Lush, ripe flavors of blackberry, boysen- supporting the yellow apple and pear core. Addi- 87 (Coastal Region). A new addition to berry and cassis flood the medium-weight palate, tional tropical-fruit flavors unfold on the palate and Boschendal’s line-up, The Rose Garden Rosé pays with medium tannins and notes of cigar box and stay through the finish. Drink up. The Cahoots Wine tribute to the estate’s iconic grounds and garden. licorice that remain through the medium-length Company Inc.. —L.B. Fresh aromas and flavors of raspberry, strawberry finish. Drink now–2017. Cape Classics. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 hull, white cherry and melon rind recall sunny abv: 14% Price: $41 days spent outside. Light sweet-spice accents car- Flagstone 2012 The Rumor Mill Viognier ry through the refreshing finish, ending clean and Tokara 2009 Director’s Reserve (Stellen- 87 (Western Cape). Soft scents of just-dried mouthwatering. Pacific Highway Wines & Spirits. 91 bosch). For full review see page 8. hay, yellow apple and white melon unfold with great —L.B. abv: 15% Price: $44 intensity on the bright palate. Balanced and refresh- abv: 13% Price: $13 ing, with an attractive mango flavor on the finish. Jardin 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellen- Drink now. Accolade Wines NA. —L.B. DeMorgenzon 2013 DMZ Rosé (Western 90 bosch). A textbook Cabernet Sauvignon, abv: 13.5% Price: $18 87 Cape). This is an easy and clean selection, this offers upfront aromas and flavors of black plum with fruity notes of cherry, strawberry and a touch and cherry that are complemented by spicy accents of carnation. Light weight and brisk in acidity, this of black-currant leaf, tobacco and dark chocolate. OTHER WHITE WINES ends bright and mouthwatering. Drink now. Cape Medium weight, it has a peppery, lightly toasted fin- Classics. Best Buy. —L.B. ish and structured tannins that soften in the glass. Boekenhoutskloof 2010 Semillon (Fran- abv: 13% Price: $12 USA Wine West. —L.B. 91 schhoek). Layered and complex, this is a abv: 14% Price: $26 stunning, well-balanced white that offers attractive Goats do Roam Wine Co. 2013 Rosé (Coastal aromas of yellow apple, fig, gardenia, guava and cle- 86 Region). A deep pink hue, this boasts aro- Kanonkop 2009 Estate Wine Cabernet mentine. The medium-weight palate boasts toasty mas of chalk and mineral that accent the red berry 90 Sauvignon (Simonsberg-Stellenbosch). accents that carry through the long finish, along and melon core. Flavors of red plum and cherry flesh Hints of purple flower, cocoa powder and licorice with flavors of wood-grilled apple and sweet spice. unfold on the palate, but turn crisp and lifted on the add depth to the black cherry and berry core. The Elegant and refined, this should continue to evolve close. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —L.B. medium-weight palate is lush and fruity, with fine through 2018. Vineyard Brands. —L.B. abv: 13% Price: $10 yet structured tannins that provide a crushed-satin abv: 13.5% Price: $39 texture. The nuanced finish offers delicate sugges- Leeuwenkuil 2013 Lion’s Lair Dreyer Family tions of black tea and bittersweet chocolate. Cape Avondale 2011 Cyclus (Paarl). A blend of 86 Rosé (Swartland). A medium salmon color, Classics. —L.B. 90 Viognier, Roussanne, Chardonnay, Chenin this leads with sunny aromas of red cherry, berry, abv: 14% Price: $40 Blanc and Sémillon, this leads with bright aromas peach and rose that continue on to the light-weight of fresh red apple, peach, tangerine and beeswax. palate. Ample acidity keeps the mouthfeel fresh and Thelema 2009 The Mint Cabernet Sauvi- Round and lush, the palate feels opulent and attrac- the finish lively. Indigo Wine Group. —L.B. 89 gnon (Stellenbosch). The name certainly tive, but with ample acidity to balance. Notes of ripe abv: 12.5% Price: $13 gives a clear indication of what to expect from this quince, baking spice and toast linger on the finish. wine, with prominent herbal aromas and flavors of The Wild Grape. —L.B. Douglas Green 2013 The Beach House Rosé fresh mint, fynbos and licorice root that frame the abv: 13.5% Price: $35 85 (Western Cape). Red cherry and raspberry blackberry and raspberry fruit core. The fine-grain aromas and flavors abound, with a pronounced tannins are fleeting, but provide enough structure Bizoe 2011 Henrietta (Western Cape). This is sweet, smoky accent to the palate and on the fin- to the spiced fruit flavors. Notes of Thin Mint, men- 89 a round and full blend, with forward scents ish. The ripe fruit flavors lend richness, but are kept thol and pepper linger long on the finish. Drink of apple skin, ripe nectarine, orange Creamsicle and in check by ample citrusy acidity. Pacific Highway now–2016. Cape Classics. —L.B. toasted almond. The richness carries through to Wines & Spirits. Best Buy. —L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 the creamy palate, with flavors of caramel-drizzled abv: 12% Price: $10 peach pie and toast on the finish. Drink now. The Beau Joubert 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon Triton Collection. —L.B. 87 (Stellenbosch). There’s a sweet, mocha oak abv: 14% Price: $NA CABERNET SAUVIGNON streak at the center of this wine, with fruity notes of fleshy black plum and cherry as well as a hint of Paul Cluver 2012 Gewurztraminer (Elgin). Glenelly 2009 Lady May Cabernet Sauvignon raspberry sauce. The palate is round and full, fol- 89 The bouquet of this wine starts off quiet 93 (Stellenbosch). Tight, compact and dense, lowed by astringent tannins that linger on the fin- and nuanced, with subtle whiffs of melon rind, this should continue to evolve with time, easily ish. Starry Night Winery. —L.B. white peach and white flowers. Bright and lively on through 2020. Deep, heady aromas of blackberry, abv: 14% Price: $19 the palate, it offers more pronounced fruit flavors of cassis, black plum, tobacco leaf, leather and licorice ripe peach, lychee and sweet clementine. Balanced dance in the bouquet. The palate starts off ripe and and refreshing; an ideal partner to enjoy now with juicy, with fresh black-fruit flavors that give way to RED BLENDS ethnic take-out. USA Wine West. —L.B. spicy notes of black tea, licorice root and charred abv: 12.5% Price: $18 cedar on the long finish. It’s structured and grip- Anthonij Rupert 2007 Vinified and Bottled ping, with fine yet powerful tannins and good con- 93 on L’Ormarins (Franschhoek). This is a centration. Cape Classics. Cellar Selection. —L.B. dense and concentrated wine, still in its youth, abv: 14.5% Price: $50 with heady, fruity tones of black plum, berry, cas- sis and date that are layered with notes of licorice, cigar box and roasted cocoa nib. The mouthfeel is

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BUYINGGUIDE

ripe and lush, with firm, gripping tannins providing through the finish. Drink now–2018. Broadbent Se- The fruit continues on to the medium-weight pal- balance and structure, lingering long on the finish. lections, Inc. —L.B. ate, alongside spicy accents of pepper and licorice. Drink now–2020. Terlato Wines International. Cel- abv: 14.6% Price: $96 The texture is full and the tannins mouthcoating yet lar Selection. —L.B. fleeting on the finish. Drink now–2018. Broadbent abv: 14% Price: $125 De Toren 2010 Z (Stellenbosch). De Toren’s Selections, Inc. —L.B. 91 Merlot-based Bordeaux-style blend also in- abv: 14.5% Price: $80 De Toren 2010 Fusion V (Stellenbosch). A cludes 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet 93 blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Franc, 12% Malbec and 4% Petit Verdot. It leads Anthonij Rupert 2009 Optima (Fran- Merlot, 13% Malbec, 11% Cabernet Franc and 5% with earthy aromas of black-currant leaf, fresh to- 89 schhoek). This wine has a direct and ap- Petit Verdot, this stunning, well-balanced wine will bacco and menthol that support the black-fruit core proachable feel, with bright, fruity aromas and fla- reward patience. Dark and dense, it’s a powerful se- of plum, cherry and fig. The palate is full and round, vors of black berry, cherry, fig and currant alongside lection that boasts serious fruit concentration and but with enough tannic structure to keep it from accents of toasty vanilla and cocoa. It’s medium a full, firm structure, with mouthcoating tannins. feeling too rich or opulent. A toasty cocoa accent weight and well balanced, with a solid structure The black-fruit core is accented by notes of leather, lingers long on the close. Drink now–2017. Cape and an enduring finish. Terlato Wines International. fresh mint, pepper, char and bittersweet cocoa. Ad- Classics. —L.B. —L.B. ditional nuance and layers of complexity will de- abv: 15% Price: $45 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 velop with time; drink 2016-2020. Cape Classics. Cellar Selection. —L.B. Ernie Els 2009 Signature (Stellenbosch). Beau Joubert 2009 The Ambassador (Stel- abv: 15% Price: $55 91 This Bordeaux-style blend is oaky at first, 88 lenbosch). There’s a lush, decadent edge to with aromas of vanilla, caramel and mocha that this wine, thanks to heady aromas of vanilla cream, A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines 2009 Red slowly mellow and marry with the berry compote, chocolate-covered raspberry and boysenberry pre- 92 (Swartland). This blend of 66% Shiraz, fig and black plum core. The lush, mouthfilling pal- serves. The palate shows more restraint, with tex- 16% Mourvèdre, 14% Grenache and 4% Cinsault ate has a texture like crushed velvet: rich, seductive tured, fruit-skin flavors of plum and cherry that is pure and balanced, with an immediately per- and fruity, but with some tannic edge. Nuances of finish slightly chewy. Enjoy this now. Starry Night ceptable core of brambly berry that’s accented by mocha and anise grace the long finish. Drink now– Winery. —L.B. notes of white pepper, charred cedar, forest floor 2018. Terlato Wines International. —L.B. abv: 14% Price: $25 and cocoa nib. The medium-weight palate is fleshy abv: 14.5% Price: $95 yet firm, with spiced-fruit flavors and structured tannins. It’s certainly drinkable now, but this will Jardin 2009 Cobblers Hill Cabernet Sau- SWEET WINES continue to mature and evolve nicely through 2018. 90 vignon-Merlot (Stellenbosch). A blend of Broadbent Selections, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. 58% Cabernet Sauvignon and 42% Merlot, this Klein Constantia 2007 Vin de Constance abv: 13.5% Price: $45 boasts bright aromas of rich red cherry, currant, to- 95 Muscat (Constantia). A well-balanced, pow- bacco and char. Medium weight and well-balanced, erful dessert wine, this opens with an intense bou- Beyerskloof 2009 Faith (Stellenbosch). with structured tannins and ample acidity. Spicy, quet of fresh peach, orange blossom, jasmine, garde- 92 This blend of 37% Pinotage, 27% Cabernet black pepper and toasted oak flavors fuel the finish. nia and honeysuckle. The mouthfilling, sweet palate Sauvignon, 27% Merlot and 9% Shiraz is dense USA Wine West. —L.B. is loaded with flavors of ripe stone fruit, mango, and concentrated, with deep aromas and flavors of abv: 14% Price: $50 melon and orange marmelade, but is kept bright by fleshy black plum, boysenberry, crème de cassis and refreshing acidity on the close. Secondary notes of fruit cake. The lush, creamy palate is decadent and Keermont 2009 Red (Stellenbosch). Earthy ginger and white tea linger long on the evolving fin- satisfying, with enough balancing tannin to provide 90 aromas of forest floor, tobacco leaf and ish. A wine of class and strength, this is delicious a crushed velvet texture. Notes of coffee and toasted leather mingle harmoniously with the black-fruit now, but should also easily age through 2020. Cape oak unfold on the close. Drink now–2018. Total core of this Merlot-based blend, with 20% Cab- Classics. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. Beverage Solution. —L.B. ernet Sauvignon, 13% Syrah and 7% Petit Verdot. abv: 14% Price: $60/500 ml abv: 15% Price: $100 The medium-weight palate boasts fruit-skin flavors of plum, cassis and berry, while accents of tobacco, Mullineux 2011 Straw Wine Chenin Blanc Kanonkop 2009 Paul Sauer (Simonsberg- balsamic herbs and pepper unfold on thelingering 93 (Swartland). With just 30 cases imported, 92 Stellenbosch). A blend of 69% Cabernet finish. Drink now–2016. Kysela Père et Fils. —L.B. this is a tough find but worth the hunt, as it will Sauvignon, 22% Cabernet Franc and 9% Merlot, abv: 14.5% Price: $40 certainly continue to evolve and flourish over the this powerful and dense selection features fruit- next 10 years, at least. Aromas and flavors of baked forward notes of blackberry, boysenberry and cassis Simonsig 2010 Tiara (Stellenbosch). This apple, peach preserves, honeycomb and orange oil that are laced with accents of tobacco leaf, licorice, 90 Cabernet-basred blend, with 13% Merlot, abound, with herbal glimmers of white tea and hon- pressed violets and lavender. The structure is full 4% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 2% Mal- eysuckle in the background adding depth and inter- and weighty, with gripping yet fine-grained tannins bec, opens with intense aromas of tobacco, leather, est. The palate is lush and round, yet pure in char- and a spicy, toasty finish. Drink now–2020. Cape sweet smoke, cured meat, dried fig and fruit cake. acter, with ample acidity to keep the flavors from Classics. Cellar Selection. —L.B. Flavors of black berry, cherry and cassis unfold on feeling overdone. Hints of honey-roasted nuts and abv: 14% Price: $50 the medium-weight palate, alongside firm, muscu- sweet spice grace the long finish. Kysela Père et Fils. lar tannins that hold on through the lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. Vilafonté 2010 Series C (Paarl). The bou- Drink now–2016. Quintessential Wines. —L.B. abv: 12% Price: $37/375 ml 92 quet of this wine is immediately full and abv: 14.5% Price: $36 lush, with aromas of brambly blackberry, cassis, Ken Forrester 2010 T Noble Late Harvest crushed violet and cocoa-dusted raspberry. The fla- Vilafonté 2010 Series M (Paarl). Floral notes 92 Chenin Blanc (Stellenbosch). This is a ripe, vors are similarly ripe and juicy on the palate, but 90 of crushed violet and iris are partnered sweet and immediately attractive dessert wine, don’t taste overly so, with rich notes of black cherry, with fruity scents of boysenberry, black berry and with forward aromas and flavors of dried apricot, berry and toasted sweet spice. The texture is round cherry on the nose of this blend, made from 49% golden raisin, papaya, honeycomb and gingered or- yet structured, with medium tannins that linger Merlot, 30% Malbec and 21% Cabernet Sauvignon. ange. Hints of sweet spice and toasted nuts unfold

40 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 on the long close. It’s viscous and lush, but with Block 3 from the low-lying Dillons Point subregion. on, and the wine’s ample weight, slightly creamy ample acidity to lift the finish. Drink now–2018. It’s grassy yet ripe, with flamboyant nectarine and texture and long, grapefruity finish work together Cape Classics. —L.B. gooseberry notes, plenty of weight and textural in- to create a harmonious whole. Pacific Prime Wines. abv: 11% Price: $55/375 ml terest and a long, mouth coating finish. Winesellers Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Ltd. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $18 Fleur Du Cap 2010 Noble Late Harvest Berg- abv: 13% Price: $27 90 kelder Selection (Stellenbosch). This starts Cloudy Bay 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- off sweet and unctuous, with scents of superripe Saint Clair 2013 Wairau Reserve Sauvignon 90 ough). A struck-flint note on the nose gives nectarine and apricot that flood the bouquet, fol- 92 Blanc (Marlborough). As usual, the Wairau this wine a touch of fumé character, and the familiar lowed by hints of baking spice, lightly toasted nuts Reserve is Saint Clair’s biggest, plushest, most opu- tropical fruit and overt green notes seem reined-in and honey. The full, round texture is balanced by lent Sauvignon Blanc bottling. Bold and unabashed- for this vintage. Those attributes actually make the refreshing acidity that carries through to the long, ly tropical in nature, it screams passion fruit aloud, 2013 an easier match with food, as does the racy bright finish. Drink now–2016. Maisons Marques & then settles down into a mouthwatering, slightly line of acids that impart a crisp, citrusy feel from Domaines USA. —L.B. chalky finish of immodest length. Winesellers Ltd. start to finish. Moët Hennessy USA. —J.C. abv: 10% Price: $19/375 ml —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $28 abv: 13% Price: $29 Paul Cluver 2011 Noble Late Harvest Ries- Dog Point 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- 90 ling (Elgin). Rich and seductive, this brims Clos Henri 2013 Petit Clos Sauvignon Blanc 90 ough). This vintage of Dog Point is un- with dense aromas and flavors of baked apple, dried 91 (Marlborough). A French-owned outpost in abashedly green without being overwhelming so. stone fruit, tangerine peel and a touch of lanolin. the South Pacific, Clos Henri seems to be finally There’s plenty of fig and melon fruit to provide sup- There’s great balance between the round, lush tex- coming of age. This entry-level offering delivers a port for the garlands of cut grass, tomato leaf and ture and clean, refreshing acidity, keeping the pal- hint of smoky, fumé character, but also plenty of fresh herbs. The texture, as usual from this venture, ate fresh and lively. Soft nuances of honey-roasted ripe fruit, ranging from fig, melon and stone fruit is silky, while the finish is long and vibrant. Vintus nut and toast unfold on the finish. Drink now–2016. to zestier notes of passion fruit. It’s reasonably full- LLC. —J.C. World Premiere Wines LLC. Editors’ Choice. —L.B. bodied, with an attractive, silky mouthfeel and a abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 10.5% Price: $20/375 ml touch of gingery spice on the finish. Monsieur Tou- ton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Fire Road 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- abv: 14.1% Price: $16 90 ough). For full review see page 12. Best Buy. NEW ZEALAND abv: 13% Price: $14 Eradus 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Awatere Val- SAUVIGNON BLANC 91 ley). This relatively small estate in the Awa- Greywacke 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- tere Valley continues to impress. The tomato leaf 90 ough). For full review see page 9. Jules Taylor 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- character of the region comes through loud and abv: 13.5% Price: $20 92 ough). For full review see page 6. Editors’ clear without being overbearing, being balanced by Choice. passion fruit and gooseberry flavors. It’s reasonably Huia 2013 Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc abv: 13% Price: $17 full in body, yet finishes spicy, prickly and refresh- 90 (Marlborough). Claire and Mike Allen’s fine ing. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.C. Sauvignon Blanc epitomizes the Wairau subregion, Jules Taylor 2012 OTQ Sauvignon Blanc abv: 13.5% Price: $18 blending slightly grassy notes with passion fruit and 92 (Marlborough). Hand-picked, whole-cluster riper stone-fruit flavors. It’s medium bodied and pressed, barrel-fermented—this represents one Kim Crawford 2013 Spitfire Small Parcels Sau- tightly focused, with a silky mouthfeel and a long, of the directions forward-thinking NZ Sauvignon 91 vignon Blanc (Marlborough). This top-flight citrus and white-currant finish. USA Wine West. Blanc producers are pursuing. It’s fully ripe and vel- effort features herbal, slightly pungent notes that —J.C. vety in texture, with toasty, nutty notes but no obvi- accentuate the wine’s ripe, nectarine-like stone- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 ous vanilla overtones, as only used oak is employed. fruit elements. There’s ample weight and richness Peach and nectarine flavors finish long and citrusy. on the palate, lightened on the finish by a fresh, Lagoon Hill 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Martin- Maritime Wine Trading Collective. —J.C. green-leafy component. Constellation Brands. —J.C. 90 borough). This is on the full-bodied side, abv: 13.5% Price: $NA abv: 12.5% Price: $26 quite ripe and tropical in style compared to its Marlborough siblings. Mango, pineapple and stone- Mud House 2013 The Woolshed Vineyard Saint Clair 2013 Pioneer Block 24 Arthur fruit notes are all present, balanced on the finish by 92 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). This wine 91 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). With only citrus and ginger. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —J.C. reflects many of the refinements that have crept 56 cases imported, this may be one of the hardest abv: 13.5% Price: $17 into New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc over recent Saint Clair wines to find, but it offers a refreshingly years. There’s just a hint of sweatiness, not out-of- austere alternative to some of the winery’s other Loveblock 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- control thiols, and the texture is silky, giving a rich bottlings. It’s only medium bodied, with delicate, 90 ough). The new project of Erica and Kim feel without requiring high alcohol levels. Goose- leafy aromas and pristine white-grapefruit flavors. Crawford (yes, the Kim Crawford), Loveblock is berries and pink grapefruit round to the flavor pro- Convincingly dry and bracing on the finish, it would situated on a spectacular windswept promontory file, ending on a clean, refreshing note. Pasternak make a brisk counterpoint to rich fish dishes. Wine- overlooking the sea. Passion fruit, vibrant and pure, Wine Imports. —J.C. sellers Ltd. —J.C. marks the nose, while the plump palate reveals abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 13% Price: $27 hints of gooseberry that linger through the extended finish. Terlato Wines International. —J.C. Saint Clair 2013 Pioneer Block 3 43 Degrees Seifried 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Nelson). From abv: 13% Price: $24 92 Dillons Point Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- 91 one of the Nelson region’s pioneering wine- ough). The Pioneer Block series from Saint Clair makers, this is as good a wine as I can remember the Mahi 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). remains a reference point for Marlborough Sauvi- Seifried family producing. The combination of sub- 90 This medium-bodied wine is tightly struc- gnon Blanc. This year, I had a slight preference for tle snow-pea and bold passion-fruit flavors is spot tured and bracingly acidic, yet doesn’t lack for ripe-

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ness or fruit. Guava, gooseberry and grapefruit are spite ample weight and fleshy texture, it manages to va notes with hints of struck flint, potent acids and all present from aromatic start to lengthy, focused finish dry and elegant, with shadings of fig, white a long, mouthwatering finish. Pacific Prime Wines. finish. It’s a crisp, refreshing counterpoint to some grapefruit, fennel and pineapple. Verity Wine Part- —J.C. of Marlborough’s softer styles of Sauvignon Blanc. ners. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $16 Riahi Selections. —J.C. abv: 12.7% Price: $15 abv: 13.5% Price: $20 Mount Fishtail 2013 Single Vineyard Sauvi- Ten Sisters 2013 Single Vineyard Sauvignon 89 gnon Blanc (Marlborough). A slightly pun- Mahi 2012 Ballot Block Sauvignon Blanc 90 Blanc (Marlborough). This medium-bodied gent sweatiness is an appealing facet of this wine, 90 (Marlborough). A limited-production (150 wine shows a remarkable evolution on the palate, helping to accentuate its vibrant tropical flavors of cases), barrel-fermented and -aged Sauvignon where it accelerates through tight, reined-in no- passion fruit and pineapple. It’s round in the mouth, Blanc, this is an intriguing and ambitious wine. The tions of gun flint and vague leafiness to pinwheels then draws to a crisp, refreshing conclusion. Drink combination of honeyed nectarine, potent leafiness of pink grapefruit and tomato leaf by the long finish. now. Southern Starz, Inc. —J.C. and pencilly oak comes together only to a certain Bartow Imports. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 extent—the elements also retain a certain disparate abv: 12.6% Price: $18 feel. The medium body and silky texture are nicely Mt. Beautiful 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Canter- judged, and the long finish features lively grapefruit Wither Hills 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Wairau 89 bury). For full review see page 10. notes tinged with coffee. Riahi Selections. —J.C. 90 Valley). For full review see page 12. Best abv: 13.5% Price: $17 abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Buy. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 Saint Clair 2013 Pioneer Block 2 Swamp Mills Reef 2013 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 89 Block Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). Bold 90 (Hawke’s Bay). Despite originating from Brancott 2012 Letter Series B Sauvignon passion-fruit aromas are tinged with a hint of green Hawkes Bay on New Zealand’s North Island, this 89 Blanc (Marlborough). Admirable for its onion. That element is less noticeable on the pal- could pass for Marlborough. It’s not overly big or consistency from year to year, the B is always a safe ate, where this medium-bodied wine delivers ample ripe, but well-rounded without losing any sense of choice. It adds a layer of creamy texture to bold pas- tropical fruit, then eases into a long, tangy, and varietal character. Hints of tomato leaf and white sion fruit aromas and ripe citrusy flavors. Best con- slightly sweet-and-sour-tasting finish. Winesellers grapefruit linger elegantly on the finish. San Fran- sumed before the end of 2014. Pernod Ricard. —J.C. Ltd. —J.C. cisco Wine Exchange. Best Buy. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 abv: 13.5% Price: $27 abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Clifford Bay 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- Villa Maria 2013 Private Bin Sauvignon Mud House 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- 89 ough). For full review see page 12. Best Buy. 89 Blanc (Marlborough). In recent years, 90 ough). This wine delivers just about every- abv: 13% Price: $13 Villa’s Chardonnays have dominated the New Zea- thing you’d possibly expect from the variety and the land show circuit, but this is a reminder that the region—grassy aromas, a bountiful mix of herb and Craggy Range 2012 Te Muna Road Vineyard company can make some darn good Sauvignon at a tropical fruit flavors, ample weight and texture, and 89 Sauvignon Blanc (Martinborough). Drawn darn good price. Tomato leaf and white grapefruit a long finish built around a solid core of grapefruit. from Craggy’s extensive holdings in Martinborough, aromas and flavors are the order of the day, easing Pasternak Wine Imports. —J.C. this is a food-friendly Sauvignon Blanc. It doesn’t into a long, mouthwatering finish. Rock solid. Ste. abv: 13% Price: $17 push the herbal extremes of the variety but instead Michelle Wine Estates. —J.C. offers plenty of zesty citrus fruit tinged with snow abv: 13% Price: $15 Nautilus 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- pea, medium body and a long, mouthwatering fin- 90 ough). At this early stage of the wine’s ish. Drink it over the next year or so. Kobrand. —J.C. Zeal 2013 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- evolution, it shows some slightly pungent, sweaty abv: 13% Price: $22 89 borough). For full review see page 12. Best notes, but they’re balanced by ample ripe passion Buy. fruit aromas and flavors. It’s medium in weight, Dog Point 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- abv: 12.5% Price: $13 with an attractively structured mouthfeel, and a 89 ough). Even one of Marlborough’s best and bright, lengthy finish that echoes with grapefruit. most consistent producers faced some challenges Amisfield 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Central Negociants USA, Inc. —J.C. in 2012. This wine shows a slight surfeit of vegetal 88 Otago). This wine has uniqueness to it, as abv: 13.5% Price: $19 notes like sweet peas and tomato leaf that don’t Central Otago is primarily Pinot Noir country. That quite harmonize with the otherwise honeyed, ripe said, the wine displays pretty traditional Sauvignon Saint Clair 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- passion-fruit flavors. The texture in the mouth is Blanc notes of passion fruit, pink grapefruit and 90 ough). For full review see page 10. still silky, the finish still long, but drink up, or look nectarine. Attractive textural richness on the mid- abv: 13% Price: $18 for the 2013. Vintus LLC. —J.C. palate fades quickly on the finish. USA Wine West. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA —J.C. Seifried 2013 Old Coach Road Sauvignon abv: 13.3% Price: $20 90 Blanc (Nelson). This entry-level bottling Lake Chalice 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- from Seifried is a solid Sauvignon Blanc in its own 89 borough). This plump, easy-drinking wine Ara 2013 Pathway Single Estate Sauvignon right, combining aromas and flavors of barely ripe offers plenty of ripe fruit. Lovely pink grapefruit or 88 Blanc (Marlborough). For full review see nectarines, struck flint and fresh herbs. It shows a gooseberry notes lead the way, buttressed by pas- page 13. Best Buy. bit of austerity and restrain in the mouth, then ends sion fruit shadings. No doubt it’s a crowd-pleaser. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 on subtle grapefruit and wet-stone notes. Drink Pacific Prime Wines. —J.C. now. Pacific Prime Wines.Editors’ Choice. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $18 Astrolabe 2013 Province Sauvignon Blanc abv: 13% Price: $16 88 (Marlborough). This is winemaker Simon Lake Chalice 2013 The Nest Sauvignon Blanc Waghorn’s entry-level wine under his own label, de- Tablelands 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (East 89 (Marlborough). A well-crafted effort, this signed to give a taste of the “province” of Marlbor- 90 Coast). Fruit from Martinborough and is on the fuller side of the Marlborough Sauvignon ough. So it’s a medium-weight, multiregional blend Hawkes Bay features in this value-priced wine. De- Blanc spectrum, balancing ripe stone fruit and gua- featuring plenty of passion fruit and lime aromas

42 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 and flavors, plus a fine line of acidity and a long fin- Makara 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- tures a potent undercurrent of ripe gooseberries. ish. Cannonball Wine Company. —J.C. 88 ough). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. International Vines, Inc. —J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $23 abv: 12.5% Price: $12 abv: 13% Price: $13

Box O’Birds 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- Mohua 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- Decibel 2013 Single Vineyard Sauvignon 88 borough). In this well-made wine, lime 88 ough). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. 87 Blanc (Hawke’s Bay). Philadelphia-born and passion-fruit flavors are zesty and refreshing, abv: 12.5% Price: $13 Daniel Brennan has crafted this medium-bodied pumped up by a hint of celery leaf. It’s medium- wine from a vineyard in the Crownthorpe subre- bodied, with a long, mouthwatering finish. Massa- Omaka Springs 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- gion. Despite its modest alcohol level, it tastes ripe, nois Imports. —J.C. 88 borough). Attractive hints of struck flint offering attractive hints of snow pea, fig and nectar- abv: 12.5% Price: $17 give this medium-bodied wine a fumé-like charac- ine before falling away a bit rapidly on the finish. ter that nicely accents ripe melon and fig flavors. It’s USA Wine West. —J.C. Brancott 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- fleshy on the palate, finishing with mouthwatering abv: 11.2% Price: $15 88 ough). For full review see page 13. Best Buy. acids and plenty of length. Bartow Imports. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $13 abv: 12.5% Price: $16 Hunky Dory 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- 87 ough). Pungent and sweaty, this makes an Cupcake 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- Sileni 2013 The Straits Reserve Sauvignon immediate impact on the nose. That vibrancy car- 88 ough). This wine’s bracing acids and dry 88 Blanc (Marlborough). For full review see ries over onto the plushly textured palate and elec- finish suggest it’s anything but a cupcake. It’s a page 11. tric, mouthwatering finish. A fun, flashy wine for medium-bodied, vibrant mouthful of Sauvignon abv: 13% Price: $16 near-term consumption. USA Wine West. —J.C. Blanc, boasting hints of nectarine and tomato leaf abv: 13.5% Price: $16 layered over a core of gooseberry fruit. The Wine Starborough 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- Group. —J.C. 88 borough). For full review see page 11. Nobilo 2013 Regional Collection Sauvignon abv: 13% Price: $14 abv: 13% Price: $15 87 Blanc (Marlborough). Nicely ripe for an entry-level wine, with stone-fruit shadings to the Forrest 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- The Loop 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- gooseberry and grapefruit notes. A subtle leafiness 88 ough). Hints of cut grass and passion fruit 88 ough). For the modest price, this medium- helps balance a slightly honeyed feel on the palate. on the nose are followed by attractive tropical fruit bodied wine delivers all you expect from Marlbor- Easy to drink. Constellation Brands. —J.C. and fresh herbs on the palate. This medium-bodied ough Sauvignon Blanc and then some. Unabashed abv: 12.5% Price: $13 wine boasts a soft, rounded feel that turns slightly green, leafy notes lead the way, developing some chalky on the finish. Pacific Prime Wines. —J.C. almost smoky pungency, but passion fruit flavors Oyster Bay 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- abv: 12.5% Price: $18 build on the palate and finish. Drink now. Interna- 87 ough). While grassy, herbal aromas domi- tional Vines, Inc. Best Buy. —J.C. nate the aromas, plenty of white grapefruit comes Forrest 2013 The Doctors’ Sauvignon Blanc abv: 13% Price: $13 through on the palate to provide for a crisp, refresh- 88 (Marlborough). Despite its low alcohol ing mouthful. It’s medium in weight, with some level, this is an attractively plump, medium-­bodied Yealands 2013 Premium Selection Sauvi- leafy and citrusy notes on the moderate-length fin- wine, marked by a harmonious kaleidoscope of 88 gnon Blanc (Marlborough). Grassy and bor- ish. Oyster Bay Wines. —J.C. fruit. Passion fruit, nectarine and pink grapefruit all derline pungent in character, there’s nevertheless abv: 12.5% Price: $15 make appearances before vanishing a bit quickly on enough white grapefruit to support the wine and the finish. Pacific Prime Wines. —J.C. give it a refreshing, citrusy core. It’s not that rich Phantom Bay 2013 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc abv: 9.5% Price: $18 or weighty, but boasts a pleasant silky texture and a 87 (Marlborough). For full review see page 14. bright, clean finish. Winebow. —J.C. Best Buy. Kim Crawford 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- abv: 13% Price: $17 abv: 12.5% Price: $10 88 borough). For a wine with such a large vol- ume (over half a million cases were imported to the Zeal 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). Spy Valley 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- U.S.), the quality is admirable. Passion fruit and 88 For full review see page 13. Best Buy. 87 ough). Better known for its aromatic whites, grapefruit elements dominate, while some grassier abv: 12.5% Price: $10 Spy Valley has fashioned a solid, middle-of-the- notes emerge as the wine sits in the glass, result- road Sauvignon Blanc. Passion fruit and pineapple ing in a pleasant blend of tropical and herbal notes. Awatere River 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- flavors form the medium-weight core of the wine, It’s plump on the midpalate, then gains focus on 87 borough). Potent green notes of jalapeño while grassy notes on the nose reemerge on the fin- the lengthy, mouthwatering finish. Constellation and green onion accent nectarine and passion fruit ish. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —J.C. Brands. —J.C. aromas, while the plate is more restrained and ac- abv: 13% Price: $20 abv: 12.5% Price: $18 tually very food friendly. There’s ample weight and fleshiness on the midpalate before a relatively quick Grove Mill 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Wairau Maimai 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Hawke’s finish. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —J.C. 86 Valley). This crisp, relatively light-bodied 88 Bay). This Hawkes Bay wine seems to be abv: 12.8% Price: $18 wine comes across as a bit lean in a Marlborough trying to out-Marlborough Marlborough. Scents of Sauvignon Blanc context, offering hints of struck crushed tomato leaves are aggressively green, while Barker’s Marque 2013 ranga.ranga Estate flint, grapefruit pith and underripe melon. Drink it the acids are crisp, to say the least. That said, it 87 Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). over the next several months. Foley Family Wines. comfortably rides the border between pleasure and This wine comes out of the chute strongly leafy —J.C. pain, ending with notes of razor-like lime juice and and herbal, with notes of celery and tomato leaves. abv: 13% Price: $15 soothing, dusty chalk. Pacific Prime Wines. —J.C. Despite all those prickly herbal nuances it’s fairly abv: 12% Price: $16 richly textured and weighty on the palate and fea- Kennedy Point 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- 86 borough). Kennedy Point is located on Wai- heke Island, but gets the fruit for this wine from

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Marlborough. It’s a light- to medium-bodied ver- the-road wine has some leafy notes that add com- sion of Sauvignon Blanc, boasting bright passion- plexity to straightforward passion-fruit aromas and WHITE BLEND fruit aromas and a juicy, mouthwatering mix of flavors, which fade quickly on the finish. Tri-Vin citrus flavors that fade a bit quickly on the finish. Imports. —J.C. Man O’ War 2012 Gravestone Sauvignon Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 83 Blanc-Semillon (Waiheke Island). This blend abv: 13% Price: $18 of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon is lean Ribbonwood 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- and racy. Grassy, lemony notes on the nose include Mount Nelson 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- 85 borough). This medium-bodied wine shows a touch of pickled jalapeño, while an acidic laser 86 borough). Passion fruit, sweet peas and to- typical notes of citrus and herb. In this case, the beam of citrus creases the palate, leaving behind a mato leaf come together in a salty blend of fruit and specifics come down to grapefruit, lime and tomato puckery, austere impression. Pinnacle Wine Vault veggies. It’s medium-bodied, then finishes on a hon- leaf, with a slightly scorched note evident on the LLC. —J.C. eyed, soft note. Drink up. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.C. finish. Evaton, Inc. —J.C. abv: 13% Price: $28 abv: 12.5% Price: $19 abv: 13% Price: $15

Tussock Jumper 2013 Sauvignon Blanc Salvatore Principe 2013 Last Call Sauvignon ARGENTINA 86 (Marlborough). This medium-bodied wine 85 Blanc (Marlborough). A round, soft and shows almost tobacco-like scents to go along with easy-drinking Sauvignon Blanc, this wine offers an WHITE WINES tropical fruit on the nose. It’s leafy and green, with attractive blend of citrus fruit and pungent herbal modest passion-fruit flavors and a moderately long notes. Drink now. Prestige Wine Group. —J.C. Alamos 2013 Torrontés (Salta). A highly finish. Tri-Vin Imports. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $13 85 perfumed nose offers potent aromas of bath abv: 13% Price: $13 soap and lychee. The palate is chunky but kept on Sileni 2013 Cellar Selection Sauvignon Blanc par by lively acidity. Lychee, melon and lemon fla- Wairau River 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- 85 (Marlborough). This medium-bodied wine vors finish sweet yet briny. Drink now. E & J Gallo. 86 borough). A rather pungent, slightly sweaty offers hints of spearmint and passion fruit on the —M.S. nose presages a wine that offers loads of passion nose. On the palate, it’s crisp, citrusy and herbal abv: 13% Price: $13 fruit flavor. While it lacks a bit of dimension and while being a bit austere. Drink now. Prestige Wine complexity, this medium-bodied offering will work Group. —J.C. Tupun 2013 Torrontés (Tupungato). The fine alongside citrusy ceviches and the like. Terlato abv: 12.5% Price: $13 83 nose is limited and narrow, not fruity or Wines International. —J.C. tropical as it should be. A plump, soft palate is low abv: 13% Price: $16 Woollaston 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Nelson). on pulse, while lychee and honeydew flavors end 85 This medium-bodied wine boasts modest bland and slightly bitter. Craveiro Importers. —M.S. Brancott 2013 Flight Song Sauvignon Blanc pineapple and passion-fruit aromas and flavors. abv: 13% Price: $10 85 (Marlborough). Brancott has taken an in- The texture in the mouth is slightly chalky, while a teresting approach to producing this wine, which metallic note akin to tinned fruit is evident on the Domaine Jean Bousquet 2013 Finca Rosa features a prominent company claim of “naturally finish. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —J.C. 81 Chardonnay (Tupungato). Harsh aromas are 20% lighter in calories.” To do that, the grapes were abv: 13% Price: $16 devoid of fruit. The mouthfeel is heavy and oily in harvested very early, resulting in a mere 9% abv in texture, while the flavors are flat and suggestive of the finished wine. Lifted, almost peppery celery-leaf Framingham 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- bitter melon. Domaine Jean Bousquet. —M.S. aromas mark the nose, but there are some nice pine- 84 borough). This winery seems to do no abv: 13% Price: $11 apple and grapefruit flavors as well. It offers a slight wrong when it comes to Riesling, but can struggle impression of sweetness on the palate, then fades with Sauvignon. This wine exhibits a more vegetal quickly on the finish. Pernod Ricard. —J.C. side of Sauvignon Blanc, hinting at red and green MALBEC abv: 9% Price: $15 bell pepper more than ripe tropical or citrus fruit. It’s pleasingly light in weight on the palate, with a El Enemigo 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). With an Huntaway Reserve 2013 Reserve Limited clean finish. Evaton, Inc. —J.C. 93 opaque purple tint and super-concentrated 85 Edition Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). abv: 13% Price: $20 aromas of blackberry and violet petals, this is an in- Sourced from the main Wairau Valley, this is a pret- your-face Malbec that pulls no punches. The “En- ty standard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, boast- Wild South 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- emy,” which is really your friend, pushes blackberry, ing restrained passion fruit aromas and flavors, 84 ough). Crisp and dry, this is a medium-bod- licorice, chocolate and floral flavors on a frame that minimal complexity and a slightly sweet-and-sour ied, slightly austere wine. Hints of smoke or stuck expands as it airs out. Drink now through 2019. finish. Drink up. Distinguished Vineyards & Wine flint join with grapefruit rind on the nose, while a Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. Partners. —J.C. slightly bitter note appears on the palate and per- abv: 13.9% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $18 sists through the finish. Vino Del Sol. —J.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Riglos 2011 Las Divas Vineyard Gran Malbec Matua 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- 92 (Tupungato). Consistent with prior vin- 85 ough). This vintage of Matua’s Sauvignon Twelfth Night 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marl- tages, this Malbec is a full-throttle wine with huge Blanc seems more tropical and fruity than other 82 borough). The namesake comedy may have aromas of blackberry and cassis. This version is a years, offering ripe guava, passion fruit and pineap- its fans, but this selection leaves a bit more to be bit more narrow and linear than in the past, but ple aromas and flavors. It’s round and easy to drink, desired. It’s a lean, aggressively green wine that it’s still excellent. Flavors of oak-based vanilla and finishing on a bit of a sweet-and-sour note. Drink even includes hints of pickled jalapeño. USA Wine coconut sit on top of vivacious berry fruit, while now. Treasury Wine Estates. —J.C. West. —J.C. chocolate cake and coconut are the key flavors on a abv: 13% Price: $13 abv: 13.3% Price: $13 large, lusty finish. Drink through 2018. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. Mussel Bay 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlbor- abv: 14% Price: $35 85 ough). This medium-bodied, middle-of-

44 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 Zuccardi 2010 Aluvional Malbec (La Con- bretheren, this pours on the wood, vanilla, graphite, mas. This feels ripe, solid and woody, with good 92 sulta). Initial oak-based scents of plastic pencil eraser and resin along with sweet blackberry structure. Flavors of plum, mint and oak resin turn and rubber give way to minerality and stony aromas and cassis flavors. Maybe with time in the bottle spicy and minty if given time, while the finish is of cassis and plum. In the mouth, this youngster is it’ll gain more individuality. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. driven by crisp acidity and plum and raspberry fla- wide, jammy, fleshy and chewy. Flavors of earthy, abv: 15.2% Price: $35 vors. W. Direct. —M.S. loamy black fruits and licorice pick up herb, spice abv: 14.4% Price: $38 and anise flavors on a forward-leaning finish. Drink Fabre Montmayou 2010 Phebus Gran from 2015–2020. Winesellers Ltd. Cellar Selec- 90 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Loud, charred Trapiche 2012 Pure Malbec (Uco Valley). tion. —M.S. aromas start out gaseous but turn more elegant, 89 Pure is yet another addition to Trapiche’s abv: 15% Price: $90 peppery and lightly herbal with airing. This wine overflowing stable of Malbecs. This is big, grabby is ripe, deeply built and firm in feel; flavors of cas- and shows chocolate, floral, herbal and perfumed Colomé 2011 Estate Malbec (Calchaquí Val- sis and sweet, candied blackberry finish subtle and berry aromas. A choppy but flush mouthfeel stages 91 ley). For full review see page 7. Cellar Selec- quietly long. Saranty Imports. —M.S. herbal-leaning, red-fruit flavors that carry a touch tion. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 of green that’s seconded on a minty, herbal, plump abv: 14.5% Price: $30 feeling finish. The Wine Group. —M.S. Marchiori & Barraud 2012 Malbec (Perdriel). abv: 14.5% Price: $18 Doña Silvina 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Gener- 90 The nose offers both minerally crispness 91 ous, sizable aromas of cassis, blackberry and and full-fledged black-fruit aromas. Chunky and Viña Cobos 2012 Felino Malbec (Mendoza). violet are inviting. This is juicy, with slightly wiry meaty in feel, the wine has baked, loamy flavors 89 This extracted, oaky wine is generous on acidity creating a racy mouthfeel. Flavors of berry of blackberry and plum that hold onto their vital- the nose, with minerally notes, iodine and potent and cassis are loamy on their own but ride comfort- ity. A medium-long finish with hints of salted beef, blackberry aromas. It’s big but balanced, and the ably on a wave of tartaric acidity, while the finish leather and chocolate provides for a good ending. flavor profile delivers common berry, toast and oaky is lifted and lively, with black-fruit flavors. Mistica The Artisan Collection. —M.S. flavors that finish strong and with espresso-like bit- Wines LLC. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 terness. Paul Hobbs Wines. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $27 abv: 14.3% Price: $20 Sur de los Andes 2012 Reserva Malbec (Men- Alta Vista 2012 Premium Malbec (Men- 90 doza). Aromas of blackberry, balsam wood, Bodega Norton 2011 Reserva Malbec (Men- 90 doza). Minerally and firm on the nose, it lemony oak and forest floor lead into a fully stocked, 88 doza). Raisiny black-fruit aromas are jam- bursts with blackberry and plum aromas. In the hefty palate. Flavors of black fruits, licorice, herbs my and a clarion indicator of what’s to come. In the mouth, this is lively and medium bodied, while and oak finish bright but level. What this lacks in mouth, this Malbec is saturated and chunky, with nice acidity allows it to roll over the palate while complexity is made up for in ripe berry flavors and extreme ripeness. Flavors of raisin, prune and baked showing earthy flavors of black fruits and rubber. overall balance. W. Direct. —M.S. berry fruits come with secondary spice and pepper A saucy, leathery, meaty-tasting finish is friendly in abv: 14% Price: $24 notes. The finish is earthy, heavy and rich but short feel. Kobrand. —M.S. on vibrancy. TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 Andean 2011 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). abv: 14.5% Price: $19 89 Bold berry fruit, mint, shoe polish and Altocedro 2011 Finca Los Gallegos Malbec creamy oak aromas are present on the nose of this Chacras 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Standard 90 (Uco Valley). Whether it’s this single-vine- full, plump, fairly tannic Malbec. Flavors of ripe 88 berry aromas come with notes of leather yard Malbec or its partners below (Turcos or Ta- blackberry, spice and raw oak finish toasty and and animal. This is firm, clacky and shows biting nos), the characteristics of each are nearly identi- pure, with good length and clarity. Lionstone Inter- tannins, while the flavor profile revolves around cal: creamy oak, tons of vanilla and milk chocolate, national. —M.S. herbal blackberry with a pinch of salt. Chocolaty resiny mouthfeels and rich, sweet berry flavors. Pick abv: 14.5% Price: $16 oak and herbal influences guide the finish on this one or pick them all; they are quasi interchangeable firm, slightly abrasive wine. Goldschmidt Vine- and only time will tell if they show individuality or Cicchitti 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Spiced yards. —M.S. remain identical triplets. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. 89 berry and cassis are the lead aromas on abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 15.2% Price: $35 this medium-bodied, zippy Malbec. In the mouth, this shows mostly fresh acidity, red-fruit zest and Finca Sophenia 2012 Reserve Malbec (Tu- Altocedro 2011 Finca Los Tanos Malbec (Uco snap. Flavors of loamy berry, baked plum and earth 88 pungato). Hard, charred oak and cedar are 90 Valley). Los Tanos hails from La Consulta run dry, while the finish is compact in feel, light in the lead aromas on this woody Malbec, which also in the Uco Valley, as does its brothers, Los Turcos weight and overall seems clean and fresh. The Arti- shows lemon peel and blackberry on the nose. The and Los Gallegos. As stated in the Turcos and Gal- san Collection. —M.S. palate is tight and pushy, mixing flavors of toasty legos reviews, these wines are triplets in terms of abv: 14% Price: $22 black fruits with raw oak resin and bitter chocolate. their oaky, creamy, sweet characteristics and overt On the finish, there’s heat and even more oak. The richness. Tasted side by side by side, they are al- Salentein 2011 Reserve Malbec (Uco Valley). Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. —M.S. most one in the same, with an emphasis on creamy 89 Plum and berry aromas are expressive and a abv: 14.5% Price: $17 oak, resiny mouthfeels and ripe berry fruits. Vino touch gritty. This Malbec feels round and medium Del Sol. —M.S. to full in body, with present but controlled tannins. Palo Alto 2008 Amadores Malbec (Mendo- abv: 15% Price: $35 Oak, lactic notes and black-fruit flavors finish minty 88 za). Despite having several years in bottle, and with natural herbal hints along with healthy, this Malbec opens with a huge blast of charred oak, Altocedro 2011 Finca Los Turcos Malbec (Uco bracing acidity. Palm Bay International. —M.S. shoe polish, lemon peel and rooty berry aromas. The 90 Valley). This oaky, creamy Malbec is one abv: 14.5% Price: $19 palate is clipped and linear in feel, while flavors of of Karim Mussi Saffie’s trilogy of 2011 La Consulta coconut, vanilla and generic berry finish with last- single-vineyard varietals, and they are so similar Sur de los Andes 2011 Gran Reserva Malbec ing coconut and unsettled oak. South Shore Wine in aromas, body weight, flavors and high oak lev- 89 (Mendoza). Heavy oak greets you on the Imports. —M.S. els that they are virtually interchangeable. Like its nose in the form of shoe polish and blackened aro- abv: 14% Price: $23

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Ricardo Santos 2011 La Madras Vineyard with ripe berry fruit, mulchy earth and resiny fla- weighing the wine’s herbal plum and berry charac- 88 Malbec (Mendoza). This Malbec from a cool vors. Carob, vanilla and cocoa flavors control a syr- ter. The finish is minty and hot in feel. Icarus Wines. vintage opens with a mix of gritty plum and jammy upy finish. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. —M.S. berry aromas. In the mouth, it’s deep enough but abv: 15% Price: $65 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 compact. Flavors of herbal plum, minty oak and wild berry finish with a mild herbal note and juicy Argento 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). Gritty El Ganador 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). Gritty, acidity. Global Vineyard Importers. —M.S. 87 berry aromas require airing. This is grabby, 85 smoky aromas of generic berry fruits are abv: 14% Price: $19 full and fresh on the tongue, with zesty acidity and slightly green. Tight and mildly astringent, it has overall good balance. A heavily oaked flavor profile rubbery tannins. An earthy, lightly baked character Salentein 2012 Portillo Estate Bottled Mal- includes mint and chocolate along with generic ber- drives the flavor profile, which ends with licorice 88 bec (Uco Valley). For full review see page 13. ry and plum. Resiny oak carries the finish. Blends and prune notes as well as a rubbery feel. Kysela Best Buy. Inc.. —M.S. Père et Fils. Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $10 abv: 13.9% Price: $14 abv: 13.5% Price: $10

Tamarí 2011 AR Malbec (Mendoza). Initially Familia Marguery 2008 Single Vineyard Fabre Montmayou 2012 Phebus Malbec 88 this Malbec smells pinched and of cheesy 87 Malbec (Mendoza). Earthy, oaky aromas of 85 (Mendoza). Stalky, leathery aromas suggest leather, although with airing the nose shifts to latex roasted berry, tree bark, root extract and lemongrass cooked fruit rater than freshness. This is normal and heavy berry aromas. The mouthfeel is chewy are jumbled but not unpleasant. This feels blocky in feel, while the flavor profile settles on rubbery, and blocky, while flavors of earthy black fruits, and heavy upfront, then more hollow as it breathes. roasted, stalky berry fruits. Mild bitterness com- herbs and dried spices finish roasted and briny. Ter- Flavors of prune and black fruits are stewy, while bines with earthiness on the finish. Saranty Im- lato Wines International. —M.S. chocolate, coffee and herbal notes steer a heavy fin- ports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $22 ish. Southern Wine Group. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $12 abv: 14% Price: $25 Trivento 2012 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). Black Box 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). While 88 In this easy-drinking wine, jammy aromas Finca [ñ] 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). For full re- 84 this boxed wine smells a touch weedy and of multiple black fruits lead to a soft, simple pal- 87 view see page 11. stalky, with airing you could call it “herbal” in a ate with a streak of bracing tartaric acid. Straight- abv: 13.9% Price: $20 good way. Mildly green flavors of blackberry and forward blackberry flavors come with little to no plum finish solid enough. This is generic wine complexity, while the finish is quick and fades away Tomero 2011 Malbec (Mendoza). Wiry, herbal with both good and shaky qualities. Constellation with modest grip and length. Excelsior Wines. Best 87 aromas of raspberry and plum are slightly Brands, Inc. —M.S. Buy. —M.S. stalky. This feels tight, choppy and prickly, but also abv: 13% Price: $25/3 L abv: 14% Price: $11 alert and racy. Flavors of herbal raspberry and plum finish with additional herbal notes, a touch of choc- Vila 2011 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Initial Valentin Bianchi 2012 Leo Malbec (Men- olate and snappy acids. Wine Spoken Here. —M.S. 82 volatile aromas of briny red fruits turn more 88 doza). Big aromas of blackberry and rasp- abv: 14% Price: $17 woody with airing. The wine shows high acidity and berry feed into a full, fresh and ultimately standard not a lot of body or depth. Flavors of herbal plum palate with grapy blackberry flavors that show a Durigutti 2011 HD Reserva Malbec (Men- and berry run tart, while the finish is mostly tar- controlled herbal side. Toasty and a touch bitter on 86 doza). Dense aromas of prune and raisin taric in feel. Puerto Viejo Wines. —M.S. the finish, it has a minty aftertaste. Quintessential scream “overripe.” In the mouth, this is heavy, satu- abv: 13.5% Price: $9 Wines. —M.S. rated and stewy in feel. Flavors of crème de cassis abv: 14% Price: $17 and brandied cherry finish baked and raisiny. Drink now. Southern Wine Group. —M.S. BONARDA Zuccardi 2012 Q Malbec (Mendoza). Blue- abv: 14.5% Price: $29 88 berry and boysenberry aromas are deep and Durigutti 2011 Reserva Bonarda (Mendoza). slightly reduced in nature. This is a chunky, wide- Durigutti 2011 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). 92 The color is deep purple, the nose dense, al- bodied wine with wiry acidity and more power than 86 IThe nose is all prune and dessicated ber- luring and hinting at mint, shoe polish, violet and elegance. Flavors of roasted, toasted black fruits fin- ry, while the palate is low on acid and feels heavy. blackberry. Flavors are pure, modestly oaky and ish blocky and with espresso-like bitterness. Wine- Flavors of baked berry and raisin finish the same. deep in terms of wild berry, coffee and chocolate. sellers Ltd. —M.S. Southern Wine Group. —M.S. Southern Wine Group. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $20 abv: 14% Price: $25 abv: 14% Price: $25

Alma Andina 2012 Reserve Malbec (Mendo- Viña Antigua 2011 Special Selection Malbec Zuccardi 2012 Emma Bonarda (Mendoza). 87 za). Loud berry and oak aromas are a touch 86 (Mendoza). Initially, this smells green, with 89 Black-fruit aromas come with notes of rub- herbal. Typical for Mendoza Malbec, this is round aromas akin to salad. With time, riper berry notes ber and smoke. Full and rugged feeling, the wine has and oaky on the palate, with related vanilla, licorice and oak rise up. In the mouth, this has a choppy feel juicy acidity and inherent raciness. Flavors of black- and bitter coffee flavors on top of core blackberry. A and edgy freshness, while flavors of stalky, lightly berry lean toward jammy, while subtle oak notes en- relatively smooth finish makes this well worth a go. green berry fruits finish with an oaky, minty charac- hance this full-bodied, fruity red. Winesellers Ltd. Lionstone International. —M.S. ter. Avatar Wines & Spirits. —M.S. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $16 abv: 13.9% Price: $15 abv: 14% Price: $38

Altocedro 2011 Gran Reserva Malbec (La Con- Bodega Los Toneles 2012 Tonel 22 Malbec Argento 2012 Bonarda (Mendoza). Bright, 87 sulta). Altocedro’s 2011 stable of high-end 85 (Mendoza). Jumpy, young berry aromas 88 playful berry and plum aromas are clean Malbecs all carry something in common: heavy, come with a whiff of wet dog. This feels concentrat- and fruity. Fresh and juicy, it shows firm but not creamy oak that gives the wines severe milk choco- ed and resiny, while forward oak causes it to come jagged acidity. Flavors of ripe plum, berry, cocoa late and vanilla characteristics. This is sticky in feel, across fatty in flavor, with raw resin and mint out- powder and herbs finish in forward fashion and not

46 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 too oaky. Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners. Bodega Los Toneles 2012 Tonel 22 Cabernet is a cleanly made, modern red wine. Southern Wine —M.S. 87 Sauvignon (Mendoza). Ripe plum and berry Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 aromas are supported by a full dose of smoky, savory abv: 14% Price: $25 oak. The palate is round yet jagged, while flavors of toasty, chocolaty berry fruits are also lightly herbal Lamadrid 2011 Single Vineyard Reserva Cab- CABERNET SAUVIGNON and heavily oaked. Icarus Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. 90 ernet Franc (Agrelo). This ultraripe, happy abv: 13.5% Price: $12 Cab Franc bursts on the scene with jammy black- Sur de los Andes 2010 Gran Reserva Cabernet berry and prune aromas. The mouthfeel is lush, al- 91 Sauvignon (Mendoza). Layered berry and Finca El Origen 2012 Reserva Cabernet Sauvi- most syrupy. Flavors of ultraripe blackberry, cassis cassis aromas are a bit scratchy and gritty. This 87 gnon (Uco Valley). Floral aromas and berry and loamy earth finish warm, lusty and with choco- Cabernet feels saturated, pure and deep; flavors of power up front, then lead to a fresh, bright, almost late and coffee notes. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. blackberry, cassis, prune and chocolate are ripe and screechy feeling palate. Toasty berry fruit flavors are abv: 14% Price: $20 generous, while the finish is mildly herbal in flavor, moderately spicy and the finish offers a reprise of with good length and build. Drink through 2018. W. toastiness and kick. This wine contains 15% Malbec Riglos 2011 Las Divas Vineyard Gran Cab- Direct. —M.S. and Bonarda, which makes it more fruity. Carolina 89 ernet Franc (Tupungato). Aromas of wet abv: 14.4% Price: $38 Wine Brands USA. Best Buy. —M.S. cement, pencil eraser, plastic, vanilla and jammy abv: 14.5% Price: $12 blueberry come in front of a racy palate with pro- Hubert Weber 2006 Vineyard Selection Cab- nounced acidity and flavors of spiced cherry, plum 90 ernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Earthy, gritty Trapiche 2012 Oak Cask Cabernet Sauvignon and herbs. A long finish with power beats its chest aromas of asphalt mix with fruitier notes of cherry 87 (Mendoza). Mellow but friendly berry aro- before flattening out and turning heavy. Paul Hobbs and plum to form an attractive, harmonious nose. mas feed into a firm palate with tight red-fruit Wines. —M.S. This Cabernet is pure and light on its feet; flavors of tannins and then ripe flavors of blackberry and abv: 14% Price: $35 coffee, cola and dried red fruits finish with elegance chocolate cake. The finish is toasty, with a chocolate and femininity. Drink through 2016. Maximus Vi- mint-chip note and acidic snap. The Wine Group. ZaHa 2011 Cabernet Franc (Mendoza). Aro- num. —M.S. Best Buy. —M.S. 87 mas of tarry asphalt, hockey puck and pasty abv: 14% Price: $27 abv: 14% Price: $10 oak dominate the creamy berry component. Jammy in feel, it has prune, spiced berry and herbal flavors. Carmelo Patti 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Trivento 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon On the finish, the tannins are grabby while volume 89 (Luján de Cuyo). This earthy, mature Cab 86 (Mendoza). Ripe, almost earthy aromas of drowns out finesse. Vino Del Sol. —M.S. is rusty in color, with aromas of dried red fruits, plum, Graham cracker and pastry precede a rubbery abv: 14% Price: $65 tobacco and leaves leading to a medium-bodied, palate with squeaky tannins. The palate delivers a smooth palate. Flavors of cola, cocoa, red licorice bolt of black currant and spicy plum flavors in front and cherry finish with mellow tannins and a final of a fiery finish that loses fruit quickly. Excelsior SYRAH dusting of cocoa powder. Drink now. Southern Wine Wines. Best Buy. —M.S. Group. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 Trapiche 2011 Iscay Syrah-Viognier (Men- abv: 14% Price: $30 94 doza). As far as Argentine Syrah goes, this Vila 2009 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon vintage of Iscay, which contains 3% Viognier in a Chakras 2009 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon 84 (Mendoza). There’s no denying that this is nod to France, is the new benchmark for the coun- 88 (Mendoza). Aromas of brick dust, tobacco, a saucy, tomatoey Cabernet. But despite its leafy, try. Daniel Pi and Joey Tensley’s wine discloses aro- red flowers and cassis come with a touch of herbal herbal leanings and a lively mouthfeel, it’s not un- mas of jammy berry fruits along with cardamom and green scents. This feels healthy and balanced, with pleasant and its snap makes it food-friendly. Puerto floral notes. The palate is a fortress of layers, while flavors of herbal berry and currant. Things turn a bit Viejo Wines. —M.S. flavors of blackberry, cassis and chocolate set the saucy and more herbal on the finish. Pacific High- abv: 13% Price: $9 stage for finishing notes of vanilla, butter, espresso way Wines & Spirits. —M.S. and cocoa powder. Drink through 2018. The Wine abv: 13.5% Price: $15 Group. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. CABERNET FRANC abv: 15% Price: $75 Familia Schroeder 2009 Saurus Select 88 Cabernet Sauvignon (Patagonia). Dry and El Enemigo 2011 Cabernet Franc (Mendoza). Trapiche 2012 Oak Cask Syrah (Mendoza). medium in body, this Cab from a warm vintage is 91 Ripe berry, cassis and grilled meat aromas 88 Char, sawdust and black cherry aromas simple but friendly, with nice cassis and raspberry presage a fresh, zesty palate with free-flowing acidi- confirm the wine’s “oak cask” labeling. Full bod- aromas. Juicy and lively on the palate, it holds red- ty that pumps up cherry, red plum, cassis and loamy ied and ripe, it conveys meaty thickness and bold fruit flavors accented by spice and herbs, particu- earth flavors. It stays fruity, stout and smooth on flavors of berry and spiced plum. A toasty, charred larly mint. A mild finish makes it an easy drinker. the finish. The wine is ripe and fully representative finish is lifted by bright acidity and fresh black-fruit Eco Valley. —M.S. of Mendoza and winemaker Alejandro’s Vigil’s style. flavors. This will go well with just about anything abv: 14.5% Price: $19 Winebow. —M.S. off the grill. The Wine Group.Best Buy. —M.S. abv: 13.9% Price: $30 abv: 14% Price: $10 Sottano 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Men- 88 doza). Spicy, dry aromas of earth, red Durigutti 2011 Reserva Cabernet Franc (Men- Michel Torino 2012 Don David Reserve Syrah currant and black olive offer some complexity and 90 doza). Tightly wound aromas of rubber and 87 (Calchaquí Valley). This oak-heavy Syrah style. This is full bodied, racy and loaded with black black fruits preview a rubbery, fruity palate that’s from northern Argentina opens with milk choco- cherry, cassis and peppery spice flavors. A touch of generous in its delivery of vanilla, creamy berry, late, mint, vanilla and briary berry aromas. The pal- heat and menthol adds jolt to the finish. Dangerous black plum and cassis flavors. A comfortable finish ate is full and chewy, with a creamy, resiny feel and Import Group. —M.S. with mocha and smooth tannins confirms that this peppery, spicy, herbal blackberry flavors. An oaky, abv: 14.7% Price: $16

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slightly green tasting finish is round in feel. Freder- mouth, this Cabernet-Malbec blend is wiry, rub- De Loach 2012 Chardonnay (Russian River Val- ick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. bery and pinched. Flavors of prune, fig, black cherry 91 ley). Chard freaks will love this California- abv: 13.9% Price: $18 and oregano finish blocky, with raw residual tan- style version of the variety. It’s wonderfully fruity, nins. Excelsior Wines. —M.S. with ripe pineapples, tangerines and papayas, and a Sea Change 2012 Syrah (Mendoza). Scratchy abv: 14% Price: $11 rich, sweet taste, like bananas sautéed in butter and 85 berry aromas come across raw, with herbal drizzled with honey. The acidity is perfect. Great job notes and pronounced oak. This feels reasonably La Puerta 2012 Alta Malbec-Bonarda (La for the price, and easy to find, with production of good, with bright acids and a firm body. An oaky, 83 Rioja). Murky red-berry aromas come with 12,700 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. resiny coating leads plum and raspberry flavors to compost and herbal notes. This feels scratchy and abv: 14.5% Price: $20 an herbal, somewhat tart finish. AWDirect. —M.S. rough, with a strong dose of herbal berry, green abv: 14% Price: $12 flavors and bitterness to the palate that lead to a Jeff Gordon 2012 Collection Chardonnay stalky-tasting finish. Eco Valley. —M.S. 91 (Carneros). For full review see page 8. abv: 14% Price: $15 abv: 14.2% Price: $42 MERLOT Luigi Bosca 2010 De Sangre (Mendoza). This Corley Reserve 2012 Estate Grown Chardon- Hubert Weber 2006 Vineyard Selection Mer- 83 Cabernet-led blend has leafy, stalky, dried- 90 nay (Oak Knoll). Ripe apricot, mango and 89 lot (Mendoza). Dry aromas of leafy, spicy out aromas of rubbery berry and compost. It feels peach flavors mark this flashy Chardonnay. It’s dry red-berry fruits register as complex and mature. raw and rubbery; leafy red-berry flavors are roasted and oaky, with brisk acidity and a creamy mouth- Medium in body, it has integrated tannins and ac- and stalky. It finishes with a mixture of burnt and feel. Don’t drink it too cold. —S.H. ids. Flavors of lightly baked cherry and sweet red green flavors. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. abv: 14.1% Price: $50 currant are earthy and finish with notes of cocoa —M.S. powder, raspberry and plum. Drink now. Maximus abv: 14% Price: $28 Valley of the Moon 2012 Chardonnay (So- Vinum. —M.S. 89 noma Coast). Oak barrels give this wine an abv: 14.5% Price: $27 Alfredo Roca 2012 Roca Merlot-Malbec (San edge of buttered toast and butterscotch, but it’s not 80 Rafael). Nail polish, hard cherry and can- heavy, and the oak is perfectly in keeping with the died apple aromas are also herbal. This is rubbery underlying orange, mango and nectarine fruit. The RED BLENDS and drawing in feel, then leafy, stalky and short finish is soft and honeyed, with a firm minerality on the palate and finish. Hand Picked Selections. that lends structure. It’s yummy for drinking now. Mascota 2009 Unánime Gran (Mendoza). —M.S. —S.H. 92 For full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.9% Price: $11 abv: 14.2% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 Buena Vista 2012 Chardonnay (Carneros). Perdriel 2009 Centenario (Mendoza). A blend CALIFORNIA 88 Good price for a Chardonnay this dry and 91 of Malbec, Cab Sauvignon and Merlot, Cen- acidic, yet rich. The upfront impression is all about tenario offers spicy, herbal black-fruit aromas along CHARDONNAY tartness and minerality, yet there are ripe apricot, with tea leaf, animal notes and a bit of green. The papaya and lime fruit flavors. Don’t drink it too palate is chunky and ripe in feel, with soft tannins. Williams Selyem 2012 Olivet Lane Vineyard cold, as it gains traction and interest as it warms in Flavors of toasted berry, coffee, bitter chocolate and 94 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full the glass. —S.H. green herbs finish comfortably. Drink through 2018. review see page 4. abv: 14.5% Price: $20 TGIC Importers. —M.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $55 abv: 14.5% Price: $36 Nickel & Nickel 2012 Stiling Vineyard Char- Williams Selyem 2012 Heintz Vineyard Char- 88 donnay (Russian River Valley). From a vine- Alamos 2012 Red Blend (Mendoza). For full 93 donnay (Russian River Valley). For full re- yard in the Green Valley, it has ripe flavors of apri- 88 review see page 13. Best Buy. view see page 5. cots, tangerines, peaches, pears and Meyer lemons, abv: 13.5% Price: $12 abv: 14.5% Price: $55 with lots of smoky, honeyed notes of new French oak. Not very subtle, it will appeal to fans of oaky, Don Miguel Gascón 2012 Colosal (Mendoza). Cooper-Garrod 2010 Gravel Ridge Vineyard ripe Chardonnay. —S.H. 86 Savory scents, a whiff of animal and jammy 92 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). Some abv: NA Price: $55 berry aromas set up a large palate with choppy tan- Chardonnays with this much oak and lees influence nins and lots of breadth. This Malbec-lead blend lose all sense of terroir, but not this one. Somehow, Raymond 2012 Reserve Selection Chardon- shows roasted, rubbery black-fruit flavors and a vintner Bill Cooper has allowed the fruit to express 88 nay (Napa Valley). At this reasonable price, fairly smooth but oaky finish. E & J Gallo. —M.S. itself, showing up as minerals, papayas and apri- this wine is a great success. It’s dry, crisp in acidity abv: 13.5% Price: $15 cots. It’s balanced and compelling. The price makes and creamy in texture, with pleasant orange, pine- it a bargain. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. apple and apricot flavors. What a nice restaurant Trapiche 2012 Extravaganza (Mendoza). abv: 14.5% Price: $29 wine, and easy to find, with 17,500 cases produced. 85 Smoky, rubbery, heavily oaked aromas sit Editors’ Choice. —S.H. on top of a stocky, creamy palate. This blend of Mal- Rutherford Hill 2012 Limited Release Char- abv: NA Price: $20 bec, Bonarda and Syrah is plump and candied, with 92 donnay (Carneros). Impressive for the price, hickory, bacon and generic black-fruit flavors rest- because it’s enormously rich, which makes it abso- Summerland 2012 Wolff Vineyard Chardon- ing on lemony acidity. The Wine Group. —M.S. lutely delicious to drink now. It’s clean and crisp in 88 nay (Edna Valley). Some new French oak abv: 13.5% Price: $13 acidity, with opulent flavors of tropical fruits, va- brings a rich, buttery smokiness to this Chardon- nilla layer cake, buttered toast, Meyer lemon sorbet nay, but mostly it’s about the fruit. It’s rich in tan- Trivento 2012 Cabernet-Malbec Reserve and honey. That makes it sound sweet, but it’s thor- gerine, apricot and papaya flavors that are drinking 84 (Mendoza). Reduced, condensed aromas oughly and properly dry. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. well now. —S.H. of jammy berry fruits are herbal and narrow. In the abv: 13.9% Price: $28 abv: 13.8% Price: $40

48 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 Williams Selyem 2012 Unoaked Chardonnay Friedeman 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma Geyser Peak 2012 Water Bend Chardonnay 88 (Russian River Valley). The fruit is front and 86 Coast). Rich in tropical fruits, apricots and 85 (Sonoma County). Simple and oaky, but it center on this oak-free Chardonnay. It’s enormously pears, it shows lots of oak and lees complications. is also classic California, with ripe, forward apri- rich in apricots, tangerines, pineapples, pears and It aspires to importance, but falls short in overall cot, orange and buttered cinnamon toast flavors, lemons, with brisk acidity and a tang of minerals. balance. Drink up. —S.H. wrapped into a creamy texture. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $44 abv: 14.1% Price: $22 abv: 13.1% Price: $39 Kirkland Signature 2012 Signature Series Lost Angel 2013 Chardonnay (California). It E16 2012 Bacigalupi Vineyard Chardonnay 86 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full 85 conveys brisk acidity, vanilla, buttered toast 87 (Russian River Valley). Dryness and acid- review see page 11. Editors’ Choice. and apricot, tangerine and honey flavors, as well as ity mark this wine, which will not appeal to fruit- abv: 14.1% Price: $13 ripeness. —S.H. forward fans. But it does gain marks for elegance of abv: 13.5% Price: $11 structure. There’s just enough apricot, orange and Krupp Brothers 2011 Chardonnay (Napa Val- oaky richness to satisfy. —S.H. 86 ley). This difficult vintage has resulted in a Niner 2012 Chardonnay (Edna Valley). A abv: 14.5% Price: $40 difficult wine. It’s dry, acidic and oaky, and the apri- 85 bit thin, but it shows tropical fruit, citrus, cot and orange fruit is thin. —S.H. peach, vanilla and buttered toast flavors. —S.H. Monticello Vineyards 2012 Estate Grown abv: 14.1% Price: $60 abv: 14.5% Price: $25 87 Chardonnay (Oak Knoll). Dry, acidic, oaky, it’also a little herbaceous. Orange and mango flavors Lake Sonoma 2012 Chardonnay (Russian Olabisi 2011 Ceja Vineyard Chardonnay are enhanced with plenty of oak. While it’s elegant, 86 River Valley). It has a creamy texture and 85 (Carneros). The oak overpowers the limes it’s not especially rich. —S.H. rich flavors of honey, peaches, oranges and tropical and mangoes. Despite mouthwatering acidity, the abv: 14.1% Price: $32 fruits. Although it’s a little on the soft side, it’s easy wine is dominated by butterscotch and buttered to drink. —S.H. cinnamon toast. —S.H. Raymond 2012 Small Lot Collection Barrel- abv: 14.2% Price: $35 abv: 13.9% Price: $40 87 Fermented Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Way too oaky, with buttered toast, honey and caramel Nickel & Nickel 2012 Truchard Vineyard Char- Schug 2012 Heritage Reserve Chardonnay flavors dominating. The underlying wine, which 86 donnay (Carneros). This is a very ripe Char- 85 (Carneros). Fermented and aged in new is crisp in acidity and suggests limes, peaches and donnay, with pineapple, orange and apricot jam fla- French wood barrels as well as two- and three-year apricots, just isn’t strong enough to handle all that vors. It’s rich but not particularly subtle, with lots old ones , this Chardonnay is too oaky. Caramel, oak. —S.H. of new French oak. —S.H. butterscotch and vanilla dominate the underlying abv: NA Price: $50 abv: 14.4% Price: $55 lime and pear fruit flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Rochioli 2012 Estate Grown Chardonnay Pfendler 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). 87 (Russian River Valley). This is a good but 86 Apricot, tangerine, peach and papaya fla- Sequoia Grove 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Val- pretty ordinary Chardonnay despite its famous Ro- vors give this wine magnificent ripeness, accompa- 85 ley). The trick with this wine is to keep it chioli brand name. It’s creamy and forward in apri- nied by plenty of smoky, caramelized oak. —S.H. dry and elegant without being austere and uninter- cot and orange jam, pineapple custard and sweet abv: 14.2% Price: $38 esting. The wine straddles that delicate border. It is oak flavors, with good acidity. —S.H. indeed dry, with suggestions of oak influencing the abv: 14.5% Price: $50 Rutherford Hill 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Val- apricot and tangerine fruit. But it can’t quite over- 86 ley). This wine is soft, herbal and earthy. It come a certain rusticity. —S.H. St. Francis 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coun- has a lovely smoky creaminess, as well as hints of abv: 14.1% Price: $28 87 ty). It delivers just what many consumers white stone and tropical fruits, but lacks a certain want, a creamy wine with flavors of citrus fruits, vibrancy. —S.H. Sojourn 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). honey and buttered toast. With a production of abv: 13.8% Price: $24 85 This oaky Chardonnay conveys rich, simple 67,000 cases, it will be easy to find.Editors’ Choice. buttered toast and caramel flavors. It has good acid- —S.H. Schug 2012 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). ity and some nice tropical fruit and peach ripeness, abv: 14.2% Price: $15 86 It conveys lots of ripe, forward citrus, pear but the oak overwhelms. —S.H. and green apple flavors. Oak plays only a supporting abv: 14.1% Price: $38 Valley of the Moon 2012 Un-Oaked Chardon- role, with crisp acidity and creamy lees co-starring 87 nay (Russian River Valley). This Chard is so with the fruit. —S.H. Sojourn 2012 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay rich in tropical fruit, green apple, lime, nectarine, abv: 14.5% Price: $25 85 (Sonoma Coast). Oak dominates this wine, orange, honey and vanilla flavors that it simply which is all about smoky buttered toast, butter- doesn’t need any oak. With a fine burst of acidity, it Sojourn 2012 Campbell Ranch Vineyard scotch and caramel. Somewhere underneath all that provides plenty of drinking pleasure. —S.H. 86 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). The flavors of is a pretty good Chardonnay, dry and crisp, with abv: 13.9% Price: $23 sweetened herb tea, pineapple and buttered toast tropical fruit, peach and citrus flavors. —S.H. mark this fresh, vibrant young Chardonnay. It’s abv: 14.3% Price: $48 Chalk Hill 2012 Estate Chardonnay (Chalk brisk in acidity and dry in the finish. A bit rustic, 86 Hill). With toasty oak and leesy notes and it’s a fine wine to drink now. —S.H. Sojourn 2012 Sangiacomo Vineyard Chardon- a creamy texture, this is a fairly manipulated Char- abv: 14.1% Price: $45 85 nay (Sonoma Coast). This is a simple, over- donnay. The underlying fruit doesn’t really stand up oaked Chardonnay. You’ll find some good pineapple, to the interventions, offering only modest pineapple Clos La Chance 2012 Chardonnay (Monterey peach and lemon flavors, but the barrel influence and peach flavors. —S.H. 85 County). With crisp, mouthwatering acid- has been heavily laid on, giving it a heaviness of but- abv: 14.9% Price: $45 ity, this simple wine has a creamy texture housing tered toast and caramel. —S.H. mango, tangerine and apricot fruit flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $15

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Coquerel Family Wine Estates 2012 Terroir treads a delicate line between California ripe and they picked early to emulate New Zealand, but it’s 84 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Despite the ter- cool-climate nervosity. What a great wine for mod- just not ripe enough. —S.H. roir designation, this wine doesn’t show much sense ern Asian-fusion fare. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 12% Price: $19 of place. It’s dry and oaky, with apricot, orange and abv: 13.7% Price: $18 lemon flavors. Drink up. —S.H. Coquerel Family Wine Estates 2011 Terroir abv: 14% Price: $35 Chalk Hill 2012 Estate Sauvignon Blanc 83 Sauvignon Blanc (Calistoga). The chief defi- 88 (Chalk Hill). Nicely dry and tart in acidity, ciency is unripeness. You’ll find green, minty, tart Discoveries 2012 Chardonnay (California). this pretty wine is fine to drink now. Flavors recall notes of citrus fruits and gooseberries. —S.H. 84 Pretty ordinary, but it gets the Chardonnay citrus fruits with richer notes of papayas, along abv: 13% Price: $32 idea across, at an everyday price. It’s dry and tart with gooseberries and green mint from cool-climate in apricots, limes and green apples, wrapped into a grapes. Made without the malolactic fermentation, creamy texture. —S.H. the wine was coopered in 55% French oak. —S.H. WHITE BLENDS abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 14.7% Price: $33 Soquel Vineyards 2012 Trinity Bianco (Cali- Spell 2012 Chardonnay (Russian River Val- Genius Wines 2012 Ritchie Vineyard Requiem 89 fornia). Crisp and racy, it reveals layers of 84 ley). The wine underneath the oak is weak 87 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). Oak honeysuckle, Meyer lemons, gingersnap cookies and and watery in citrus and tropical fruit flavors. The gives a creamy toastiness, but this wine is really all crushed brown spices, especially cinnamon. The barrel influence is heavy in buttered toast. The bot- about Sauvignon Blanc’s acidity and lemon, lime, blend is Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürz- tom line is easy and drinkable now, but not very gooseberry and honey flavors. It’s dry and crisply traminer. And what a great price. Production was complex. —S.H. mouthwatering. —S.H. 1,738 cases. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $39 abv: 14.3% Price: $30 abv: 13.8% Price: $16

Dillon 2011 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay Lake Sonoma 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (So- Tablas Creek 2012 Côtes de Tablas Blanc 82 (Yountville). Simple and watery, it has oaky 87 noma Valley). Good for drinking now, it’s 88 (Paso Robles). This bone-dry, acidic wine flavors of citrus fruits and peaches. There’s not bright in acidity, with long-lasting flavors of Meyer does not dazzle, but has elusive flavors of apricots, much going on, but it is dry and crisp in acidity. lemon, cantaloupe, vanilla bean and honey. —S.H. oranges, tobacco, honey, white pepper and sandal- —S.H. abv: 14% Price: $24 wood. The blend is Viognier, Grenache Blanc, Mar- abv: 13.5% Price: $20 sanne and Roussanne. Drink it now, but not too Clos La Chance 2013 Estate Grown Sauvi- cold. —S.H. The Mountain Winery 2010 Estate Reserve 86 gnon Blanc (Central Coast). This wine is abv: NA Price: $27 82 Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). The dryish, crisp in acidity and clean in the finish. It has grapes clearly didn’t get clean and ripe in this cold ripe apricot, orange, pineapple, grapefruit, mango Tablas Creek 2011 Esprit de Tablas Blanc vintage, to judge by the vegetal, mushroomy aromas and honey flavors, whose sweet finish makes it a 88 (Paso Robles). The blend is Roussanne, Gr- and flavors of this wine. The palate barely finds great partner to Chinese food. —S.H. enache Blanc and Picpoul Blanc. The wine is bone fruit, in the form of watery lemons and limes. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 dry and nicely acidic, with a burst of stony mineral- abv: 14.3% Price: $41 ity accompanying Meyer lemon, orange rind, subtle Cosa Obra 2013 Hummingbird Hill Vineyard green bean, vanilla and white pepper flavors. It’s Dillon 2010 Stainless Steel Fermented Char- 86 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Coast). A little complex but aloof. Don’t drink it too cold. —S.H. 81 donnay (Yountville). Tastes like it’s getting sweet, a little sour, this wine has candied flavors of abv: 13.5% Price: $40 old, showing tired orange and apricot flavors that limes, pineapples and oranges. Brisk acidity gives are dry and acidic. —S.H. it balance and a cleansing finish. It will be a nice Tablas Creek 2012 Patelin de Tablas Blanc abv: 13.9% Price: $20 companion to Chinese and Vietnamese fare. —S.H. 85 (Paso Robles). Blended from Grenache abv: 14.2% Price: $25 Blanc, Viognier, Roussanne and Marsanne, this is a fine wine for drinking now. It’s dry and acidic and SAUVIGNON BLANC Long Meadow Ranch 2013 Sauvignon Blanc even a little tannic, with subtle apricot, tobacco and 86 (Napa Valley). The strong, green streak of orange rind flavors. —S.H. Coquerel Family Wine Estates 2012 Le Petit gooseberries will divide wine lovers on this 100% abv: 13.3% Price: $20 90 Coquerel Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). stainless steel-fermented wine. It’s absolutely dry For full review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. despite low alcohol, with brisk acidity. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.9% Price: $20 OTHER WHITE WINES

Pech Merle 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Pedroncelli 2013 East Side Vineyards Sauvi- Coquerel Family Wine Estates 2012 Verdelho 90 Valley). Made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc 85 gnon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). The lemon, 87 (Calistoga). Racy and rich, its citrus and fermented and aged in stainless steel tanks, this lime, pineapple and honey flavors are compromised tropical fruit flavors, accented with juicy acidity, wine shows why Dry Creek Valley has achieved such by green mint notes in this dry, acidic wine. It has suggest Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio. There’s a a fine reputation with this variety. Totally dry and its limitations, but would make a good companion lovely creaminess to the mouthfeel. With a slightly brisk in acidity, it has savory flavors of lemons and to a wide variety of fare, from potato salad to fried sweet, honeyed finish, it will pair well with Thai, limes, passionfruit, gooseberries and white pepper. chicken. —S.H. Vietnamese and Chinese fare. —S.H. Awesome with Vietnamese, Ethiopian and Indian abv: 13.9% Price: $14 abv: 14% Price: $18 fare calling for white wine. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $17 Voss 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). J Vineyards & Winery 2013 Pinot Gris (Cali- 85 It’s bone dry and tart, with green mint, 87 fornia). It’s rich and fruity in lemons, limes, Oberon 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Val- gooseberry and grapefruit flavors. Seems like a wine oranges, honeysuckle flowers and vanilla bean. 89 ley). Dryish and crisp in acidity, it holds As sweet as it feels midpalate, it finishes dry and rich lemon, lime, papaya and gooseberry flavors. It zesty in acidity. The acidity will cut right through

50 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 prosciutto, eggrolls, chicken tamales or a Sunday the bubbles are scoury and fierce, lacking the fi- Kale 2013 Rosé (Napa Valley). Made from a brunch ham and cheese soufflé.Editors’ Choice. nesse of a fine sparkling wine. —S.H. 91 blend of 62% Grenache and 38% Syrah, this —S.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 is a classically dry, refreshingly crisp rosé, pink- abv: 13.8% Price: $15 salmon in color that’s intense yet soft, crafted in a Provence style. The grapes come from Rutherford, People’s Wine Revolution 2013 Salem Ranch ROSÉS Atlas Peak and Sonoma County’s Kick Ranch, tast- 87 Viognier (Dry Creek Valley). Bone dry, deli- ing of fresh raspberry and spring flowers, a bite of cately structured and crisp in acidity, this doesn’t Charles Heintz 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (So- wet stone on the finish. —V.B. show the richness you expect from Viognier. But 93 noma Coast). Sought-after vineyard grower abv: 12.9% Price: $22 it’s elegant, with layers of lemons, limes, apricots, Charles Heintz has teamed with stellar Sonoma white pepper and vanilla bean. Drink it now with County winemaker Hugh Chappelle (Lynmar, Quivi- Benziger 2013 Dry Rosé (Sonoma Moun- modern Asian fare. —S.H. ra) to make this divine estate-grown Rosé, pale pink 90 tain). This lovely rosé is made from certi- abv: 13.5% Price: $18 in the glass with hugely inviting floral aromatics. fied sustainable grapes of indeterminate variety. From there is a bolt of electricity, the wine juicy and Slightly effervescent in tart cherry and mint, there’s Lost Angel 2012 Moscato (California). It’s alive in peach, citrus and strawberry, mouthwater- a textured, complex layering of strawberry and 85 right in the middle between off dry and des- ing and light. —V.B. raspberry in the mix that makes the wine bright and sert-wine sweet, with honey, tangerine and apricot abv: 13.5% Price: $19 refreshing. Best Buy. —V.B. flavors that have a caramelized finish. The acidity is abv: 13.5% Price: $15 the best part. —S.H. Alta Maria 2013 Pinot Noir Rosé (Santa Ma- abv: 11.5% Price: $11 92 ria Valley). The intriguing golden-pink color Blackbird Vineyards 2013 Arriviste Rosé looks like sun shining through a rose petal, and the 90 (Napa Valley). Made from 58% Cabernet Villa Andriana 2013 Muscat Canelli (Knights aromas of honey, buttered popcorn and pecan pie Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, 84 Valley). The orange, lemon, honey and va- are just as appealing. Once sipped, the flavors of this rosé was made in the saignée method, cold fer- nilla flavors are a little thin, but crisp acidity and a poached salmon somehow show. These continue mented for six weeks, left sur lies and cold stored, sweet finish make the wine likeable, perhaps nice on into a long finish, although the acidity soon wipes producing an intense, structured wine thick in a summer night. —S.H. the slate clean like a good rosé should. This is one of strawberry and raspberry flavor with just a hint of abv: 11.3% Price: $20/375 ml many wines made by ninth-generation Santa Maria herbal amidst its complex layers. —V.B. Valleyite James Ontiveros. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $25 Millésimé 2012 Le Jardin Viognier (Paso abv: 13.1% Price: $18 83 Robles). Thin and simple, this Viognier just Le P’tit Paysan 2013 Rosé of Mourvèdre (San doesn’t have enough to satisfy. While it’s nicely dry Curran 2012 Grenache Rosé (Santa Ynez Val- 90 Benito County). Venturing into the orange and crisp, the orange and peach flavors are watery. 92 ley). A stunner of a rosé, this wine’s pale side of the rosé color rainbow, this Mourvèdre- —S.H. pink hue does little to indicate its action-packed based wine—with 13% Grenache—brings melon, abv: 14% Price: $28 reality. Nectarine, wet stone, and bubble gum oc- guava, pomelo and ripening banana to the nose, fol- cupy the aroma profile, but the flavors are what set lowed by papaya and watermelon once sipped. It’s it off. Ruby red grapefruit, strawberry shortcake, a revealing look at the potential of the overlooked SPARKLING WINES and a slight lemon chiffon element hammer home Central Coast vineyards that winemaker Ian Brand this beauty by Sta. Rita Hills-based superstar pro- diligently seeks out, both for his personal labels and Schramsberg 2009 Tognetti Vineyard Brut ducer Kris Curran, formerly of both Sea Smoke and the many for which he consults. —M.K. 96 (Carneros). The winery rarely produces sin- Foley. This is versatile enough to handle both seared abv: 13% Price: $19 gle-vineyard bubblies, so when they do, it’s because scallops and grilled babyback pork ribs. Editors’ their team believes in the bottling. And when you Choice. —M.K. McCay Cellars 2012 Rosé (Lodi). From taste this 100% Chardonnay, you understand why. abv: 14% Price: $18 90 100-plus-year-old Carignane vines, with It’s dry and rich in acidity, with yeasty lees and toast splashes of Grenache, too, this is a refreshing wine that frame gorgeous tangerine, Meyer lemon, lime Donkey & Goat 2013 Isabel’s Cuvée Rosé for spring and summer. Stony in grapefruit and and vanilla bean flavors. The mousse is ultrarefined, 92 (Mendocino). Akin to a fresh basket of peach, it’s balanced, light and dry with a fruity kick. making it great for drinking now. This sparking wine strawberries picked up at the farmer’s market, —V.B. could age until at least 2024, gradually losing effer- this Grenache Rosé is intensely floral and fruity. A abv: 12.5% Price: $18 vescence and primary fruit but gaining in subtlety. touch of blood orange peeks through, along with a —S.H. flirty herbal streak and dry, soft textures. Light and Midsummer Cellars 2013 Grenache Rosé abv: 13.4% Price: $70 bright, it offers a slight effervescence. —V.B. 90 (Yolo County). For full review see page 10. abv: 13.7% Price: $26 abv: 13.8% Price: $19 Gloria Ferrer 2003 Carneros Cuvée (Carne- 90 ros). The blend is Pinot Noir and Chardon- Lynmar 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Russian Scratch 2013 Rosé (Monterey County). For nay. The wine remains tough, dry and scoury at the 92 River Valley). This is a classically light rosé, 90 full review see page 10. age of 11 years, showing its yeastiness and subtle fragrant in strawberry and raspberry. Traces of abv: 12.7% Price: $18 flavors of Meyer lemons and limes. It’s elegant, but pomegranate on the back palate offers darker, riper probably not going anywhere, so drink up. Sushi fruit in the glass, getting prettier as it goes along. Zaca Mesa 2013 Z Gris Estate Grown and will be an ideal companion. —S.H. Deliciously dry and dancing in acidity, it has plen- 90 Bottled Dry Rosé (Santa Ynez Valley). For abv: 12% Price: $70 ty of citrus on the finish. The wine is substantial full review see page 10. enough for springtime and summertime meals, but abv: 13.5% Price: $16 Gloria Ferrer NV Blanc de Blancs (Carneros). will drink equally well on its own. —V.B. 87 Based on Chardonnay, this sparking wine is abv: 14.2% Price: $20 Ampelos 2013 Rosé of Syrah (Santa Ynez dry, crisp and yeasty, with orange, mango and lime 89 Valley). Salmon pink in color, this rosé flavors and a dry finish. The main criticism is that brings buttery and floral (orange blossom, night

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jasmine) aromas together for an all-encompassing based wine almost looks like water, but the aromas Kobler 2013 Rosé of Grenache (Russian River bouquet, powered by the 19% Grenache inclusion. of marcona almond and delicate lemonade assure 87 Valley). Made from 100% Grenache grapes, On the palate, tropical touches of papaya and mango that it’s perfect for a picnic on a hot day. The strong it was made in a tiny amount of 50 cases. It offers an dance with tart apple and nectarine flavors, which acidity tantalizes the mouth, and would make ex- almost grenadine-like flavor amidst a core of peach get midpalate lifting from the 6% boost of Riesling cellent pairing for shellfish or simply cooked white intensity. Softly textured, it’s super enjoyable and as well. —M.K. fish. —M.K. would go well with a bowl of fruit, eggs and bacon abv: 13.8% Price: $16 abv: 14.1% Price: $17 at brunch. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 Buttonwood 2013 Estate Rosé (Santa Ynez J Vineyards & Winery 2013 Vin Gris Rosé of 89 Valley). With an inviting strawberry sun- 88 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Dry and Lucas & Lewellen 2013 Estate Vineyards Rosé dae nose, this bright pink rosé of Syrah from the mouthwateringly tart, it would be versatile at the 87 of Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara). With a pink longtime organically minded team at Buttonwood table. With a translucent pink-orange color, it’s color so deep that it borders on mauve, the exotic is all about summertime hedonism. There’s creami- delicately structured, showing brisk acidity and notes play a leading role, with passionfruit, papaya, ness on the palate, with some apple tartness in the complex, subtle orange, strawberry, spearmint and and guava hitting the nose first. On the palate, it’s middle and, again, long strawberry elements on the vanilla flavors that finish dry and spicy.Editors’ full and flavorful, reminiscent of a Mexican agua fr- finish. Pair with beef sliders on soft, sweet rolls that Choice. —S.H. esca made from strawberries and watermelon. This are adorned with gourmet condiments and cheeses. abv: 14.3% Price: $20 is beach wine at its finest. —M.K. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $18 abv: 12.2% Price: $18 Oso Libre 2012 Rosalinda Rosé (Paso Ro- 88 bles). Bursting with scents of watermelon Solminer 2013 Linus Rosé (Santa Ynez Val- Fiddlehead 2013 Pinot Noir Rosé (Sta. Rita sorbet on a warm summer day, this salmon-colored 87 ley). The use of 100% Syrah gives a deep 89 Hills). The shade of this Kathy Joseph cre- Grenache-Syrah-Mourvèdre pinkie hits the palate pink color that borders on purple. Aromas are rath- ation is that of rosé-colored sunglasses. Such com- with peach and strawberry essence. It gives a brief er strong too, with the flaky, buttered crust of a hot fort is furthered with a cherry cola and maraschino impression of alcoholic heat before a buttery finish, cherry pie running into the more bitter elements of cherry nose. A slight effervescent zing on the palate in part due to the barrel fermentation. Unlike many citrus rinds. Those characters play leading roles on accompanies pomegranate flavors followed by an rosés that are released right away, Oso Libre holds the palate as well, cherry candy toying with just- impressively long finish. Great with a fresh garden their richer style back for a while, allowing the lay- ripe grapefruit, providing tensions that keeps the salad, but able to handle more substantial fare too, ered flavors to properly integrate. —M.K. sipping interesting. Just 72 cases produced. —M.K. such as breaded chicken cutlets or a cheeseburger. abv: 13.5% Price: $26 abv: 13.2% Price: $22 —M.K. abv: 12.6% Price: $22 Stark 2013 Rosé of Grenache (Sonoma Coun- Sevtap 2012 Awesome Sangiovese Rosé 88 ty). Bone dry and delicately structured, it 87 (Santa Ynez Valley). Nearly purple in color, Flowers 2013 Estate Rosé (Sonoma Coast). has good acidity cutting across herb tea, apricot, or- it is equally intense in flavor, almost like sipping 89 The color is a pale copper-pink, suggesting ange rind and white pepper flavors. The wine shows a straight red wine, save for the low alcohol. This the wine’s delicacy in the mouth. It’s low in alcohol, some true complexity and interest. —S.H. bottling, made by Turkish-born, former oil rig con- bright in acidity and subtle in apricot, orange rind abv: 12.7% Price: $22 struction worker Ertugrul “Art” Sevtap, begins with and white pepper flavors. —S.H. candied pecans and other nutty aromas, then brings abv: 12.5% Price: $32 Tre Anelli 2012 Grenache Rosé (Santa Bar- red apple, light herbals, and hazelnut to the palate. 88 bara County). Deep ruby pink in color, this Pair with everything from cedar plank salmon to ONX 2013 Indie Rosé (Paso Robles). Tem- wine begins with a nuanced nose, mixing the fun of turkey burgers. —M.K. 89 pranlillo is not the most common base for grape soda with the elegance of purple flowers. On abv: 11.4% Price: $22 California rosé, but this might change some minds. the palate, it’s a tad boozy for pink wine, but the It veers into the orange spectrum of pink color, flavors of cherry and currant stand out in front of Tablas Creek 2013 Dianthus Estate Mourvè- and smells like a grapefruit spritzer. On the palate, the alcohol. It would make a nice companion for a 87 dre-Grenache-Counoise Rosé (Paso Robles). there’s lemon bar, almond paste, and bubblegum, dish with ample flavors and actual warmth, such as Picturesque with a crystalline salmon color, it be- but any perceived sweetness is wiped away by brisk chicken soup or a tuna melt. —M.K. gins with the scent of just-bitten nectarine. The acidity and a slightly bitter quality too. The layers of abv: 14.5% Price: $28 following flavors of tart apple and a slightly bit- flavor are impressive. —M.K. ter salinity ensure the uniqueness of this wine. abv: 13.9% Price: $25 Ty Caton 2013 Rosé of Syrah (Sonoma Val- Mourvèdre (57%) is in the lead, followed closely by 88 ley). Light salmon in color, this herbal rosé Grenache (28%) and Counoise (15%), all coming Tablas Creek 2013 Patelin de Tablas Rosé Gr- dances on the palate with a slight effervescence and from the original cuttings of the Château de Beau- 89 enache-Mourvèdre-Counoise (Paso Robles). 5% residual sugar. It offers a bouquet of robust red castel. This age-worthy blend will be fun to track So pale that it’s almost yellow in color, this Rhône- fruit and rose petal aromas, and saw no oak. —V.B. 2017–2019. —M.K. based, Provence-inspired blend of 73% Grenache, abv: 13.2% Price: $24 abv: 14.3% Price: $27 22% Mourvèdre, and 5% Counoise from seven distinct vineyards throughout the Paso Robles re- Isabel Mondavi 2013 Deep Rosé of Cabernet Clayhouse 2012 Adobe Pink Rosé (Paso Ro- gion hits the nose with lime, rain on concrete, and 87 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). In vintage after 86 bles). A blend of Grenache Noir, Syrah and a nuttiness of almond. On the palate, it’s very soft, vintage, the winery has chosen to make this blush Mourvèdre, this is dry, crisp and delicate despite a though a tad tart, with more citrus and minerality wine heavier than most rosés in California. They’ve fairly dark orange-pink color. It has complex flavors emerging on the finish. —M.K. done so again in 2013, giving a darkly colored, fruity of raspberries and tannic cherry tea, orange zest, abv: 14.1% Price: $20 wine you could almost drink unchilled as a table cinnamon and vanilla bean. Give it a good chill be- red. It has a Beaujolais-like cherry jamminess that fore drinking. —S.H. Center of Effort 2013 Effort Estate Pinot is frankly delicious. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 88 Noir Rosé (Edna Valley). Perhaps the pal- abv: 13.2% Price: $20 est Central Coast rosé of the year, this Pinot Noir-

52 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 Denier-Handal 2012 Syrah Rosé (Alexander palate. That doesn’t happen though, instead deliv- Roadhouse Winery 2012 Yellow Label Pinot 86 Valley). This blush tastes like a peaches- ering rounder, orange cookie flavors that struggle to 91 Noir (Russian River Valley). It’s enormously and-cream soda, with hints of strawberries and evolve past their initial flabbiness, never finding any ripe and opulent in raspberries, persimmons and vanilla. It’s soft and mellow, with a honeyed finish. zings of acidity. —M.K. Dr. Pepper cola, with lots of toasty oak. The mouth- —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $19 feel is light and silky, and the acidity is a delight. A abv: 13.6% Price: $20 fruity sweetness to the core turns dry and spicy on the finish. Drink now–2018. —S.H. Hartley-Ostini 2013 Hitching Post Pinks Rosé PINOT NOIR abv: 14.6% Price: $46 86 (Central Coast). Perhaps the most varietally adventurous rosé of the year, Pinks by the Hitch- Williams Selyem 2012 Olivet Lane Vineyard Williams Selyem 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma ing Post features a barrel-fermented blend of nearly 95 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full re- 91 Coast). For full review see page 8. even parts Pinot Noir, Grenache, and Valdiguié, a view see page 4. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.9% Price: $52 grape most popular in France’s Languedoc but once abv: 14.2% Price: $75 known as Napa Gamay. The effect is a rich salmon Amici 2012 Olema Pinot Noir (Sonoma color and deep smells of cherry. On the palate, it’s Williams Selyem 2012 Westside Road Neigh- 90 County). It’s rare to get a twenty buck Pinot not quite as showy, with unripe raspberry and crisp 94 bors Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For Noir this good. The wine is dry, silky and elegant, apple. —M.K. full review see page 5. almost faultless in its precision. With savory cherry, abv: 13.5% Price: $15 abv: 13.8% Price: $69 red licorice, cola and sandalwood flavors, it’s not an ager, but a very pretty wine for drinking now. Edi- Pedroncelli 2013 Signature Selection Dry Summerland 2011 Proprietor’s Reserve Pinot tors’ Choice. —S.H. 86 Rosé of Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Good 93 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This is the winery’s abv: 14.2% Price: $20 price for a semidry blush wine, crisp and clean in best Pinot Noir in years. Half the grapes come from acidity, with such rich fruit. The raspberries and the famous Fiddlestix Vineyard. The wine is bone Bruliam 2012 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot cherries have a minerally component that adds dry and silky in the mouth, with a delicacy that be- 90 Noir (Sonoma Coast). This is one tight structural elegance. —S.H. lies the power of its raspberry, red currant, brown young Pinot Noir. You take the first sip, and the abv: 13.2% Price: $12 sugar and cinnamon flavors. —S.H. acidity hits you, then the tannins, and finally the abv: 14.1% Price: $70 fruit, which is ripe and vast in raspberries and Simi 2013 Dry Rosé (Sonoma County). strawberries. Oak adds smoky caramel to this par- 86 Salmon-peach in color this rosé is made Williams Selyem 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma fait. Give it until 2018 or 2019, when it should hit from 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Malbec and 93 County). For full review see page 5. Editors’ its peak. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 10% Pinot Noir, the end result of which is a thirst- Choice. abv: 14.4% Price: $55 quenching array of pineapple and papaya aromas abv: 13.7% Price: $39 and flavors in a crisp, straightforward package. Chalk Hill 2012 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir —V.B. EnRoute 2012 Les Pommiers Pinot Noir (Rus- 90 (Russian River Valley). For full review see abv: 13.5% Price: $27 92 sian River Valley). For full review see page 6. page 9. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 abv: 14.5% Price: $48 Bruliam 2013 Rose of Pinot Noir (Sonoma 85 County). The dark orange-pink color sug- Williams Selyem 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian Cult X 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). gests this blush wine’s level of extraction, an im- 92 River Valley). For full review see page 7. 90 It’s bone dry, acidic and tannic in youth, pression confirmed when you taste it. It’s heavy for abv: 14.1% Price: $52 but with a solid core of black cherries and red cur- a rosé, with watery raspberry jam flavors accompa- rants, and the oak has been subtlely applied. Give it nied by crisp acidity. —S.H. Williams Selyem 2012 Terra de Promissio until 2019–2020. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $20 92 Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full abv: 14.4% Price: $49 review see page 7. Pech Merle 2013 Ivy Rosé de Syrah (Dry Creek abv: 13.9% Price: $55 Hirsch 2011 San Andreas Fault Pinot Noir 84 Valley). This blush was blended with 20% 90 (Sonoma Coast). This is a blend of blocks Zinfandel. It’s pretty dark in color for a rosé, with Dichotomy 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- from the large estate vineyard, yielding a very com- an orange-ruby color, and also is full-bodied and 91 ley). Dry, crisp and silky, it shows complex plete wine. It’s brisk in acidity, dry and silky, with heavy, with raspberry jam and sweetened herb tea raspberry jam, buttered cinnamon toast and sandal- low alcohol and firm tannins framing raspberry and flavors. —S.H. wood flavors. It provides great satisfaction, at a fair cherry skin, cola and pomegranate flavors. —S.H. abv: 14.8% Price: $19 price. —S.H. abv: 13.4% Price: $60 abv: 14.1% Price: $32 Spell 2013 Rosé Vin Gris of Pinot Noir (So- Whitcraft 2012 Pence Ranch Clone 115 Pinot 84 noma County). Orange rind, apricot, peach Roadhouse Winery 2012 Gold Label Middle 90 Noir (Santa Ynez Valley). This Pinot flirts and vanilla flavors mark this slightly heavy but at- 91 Reach Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). A with overripeness, but pulls back just in time. The tractive rosé. It’s also a little sweet in the finish, but blend of several vineyards in the famous Middle result is masses of raspberries, cherries and persim- easy to drink now with ham, paté or Sunday brunch. Reach stretch of the warmer, northwestern arm of mons with just a touch of prune, liberally enhanced —S.H. the Russian River Valley, this is a beautiful wine with oak, but complexed with good acidity and tan- abv: 14.2% Price: $18 to drink now. It’s dry and silky, with perfectly rip- nins and a stony minerality. Give it until 2017. Cel- ened raspberry, cherry, strawberry and cola flavors, lar Selection. —S.H. Testarossa 2013 Cuvée Los Gatos Pinot Noir brightened by crisp acidity. It will hold in the bottle abv: 13.2% Price: $60 83 Rosé (Monterey County). There is a slightly through 2020. —S.H. sour yeasty smell as you lean into this pink-orange abv: 14.8% Price: $52 Wild Horse 2011 Cheval Sauvage Pinot Noir wine, mixed with green apple, which usually prom- 90 (Santa Maria Valley). Dry and silky, it re- ises electric intensity, even effervescence on the veals layers of cherry skin, orange rind, tea and

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sandalwood flavors. It grows more fascinating as influence and a delightfully silky texture. But the Wild Horse 2012 Pinot Noir (Central Coast). it warms in the glass. It will hold in the bottle for tartness seems destined to mark the wine for the 87 For twenty bucks, you get a a cool-climate years without gaining in complexity, so enjoy it now rest of its life. —S.H. Pinot that’s eminently drinkable. It’s bone dry, crisp and through 2015. —S.H. abv: 12.8% Price: $85 in acidity and delicately structured, with cola, rasp- abv: 14.1% Price: $60 berry and persimmon flavors. It won’t age, but is a Niner 2012 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Niner’s fine example of Central Coast Pinot Noir. With pro- Sojourn 2012 Silver Eagle Vineyard Pinot 88 Paso Robles Bordeaux-style reds have at- duction of 140,000 cases, it’s easy to find. —S.H. 89 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Dry and silky, it has tracted attention. Now the winery turns to Pinot abv: 13.5% Price: $20 ripe raspberry and strawberry flavors that are com- Noir, but they wisely turn to the cooler Edna Valley. plexed with sweet green herbs and smoky oak. It’s The resulting wine is dry, silky and crisp in acid- Cooper-Garrod 2011 Finley Vineyard Pinot too soft for aging, so drink over the next few years. ity, with pleasant raspberry and sandalwood flavors. 86 Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). This Pinot is —S.H. —S.H. a little heavy in the mouth. It’s front-loaded with abv: 14.2% Price: $59 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 raspberry and cherry jam fruit, while plenty of oak slathers it with butterscotch and caramel. It’s not a-non-ah-mus 2010 Babcock Vineyard Pinot Pfendler 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). an ager, so decant and drink up. —S.H. 88 Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). The wine is bone dry, 88 Rich in black cherry, licorice, mocha and abv: 13.4% Price: $29 with lots of mouthwatering acidity. The flavors are oak flavors, this Pinot is showing its best now. Give reticent but complex, suggesting sour blackberry it a few hours of decanting and pair with steak, lamb Corley Reserve 2011 Estate Grown Pinot Noir candy and cherry skins, along with some firm tan- and salmon. —S.H. 86 (Oak Knoll). The delicate structure on this nins. Try aging it until 2017 to let it soften as much abv: 14.4% Price: $45 Pinot immediately appeals. It’s all silk and satin, as it ever will. Cellar Selection. —S.H. gliding across the palate with mouthwateringly abv: 14.2% Price: $40 Sojourn 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). crisp acidity that gets you ready for rich fare, like 88 Filled with cool-climate zest, it’s light and steak, tuna, lamb. A dried thyme earthiness sug- Bruliam 2012 Pinot Noir (Russian River Val- silky in the mouth, with pleasant raspberry, cola, gests its warmer Napa origin, but the strawberry 88 ley). Give this wine until 2020 in the cellar pomegranate and mint flavors that finish dry and and cranberry fruit is evocative. Drink now. —S.H. to let all the parts begin to come together. Tasted in spicy. Ready to drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $60 March, it’s all about tannins, unintegrated oak and abv: 14.4% Price: $39 fresh, ripe raspberry jam fruit. There’s a good wine Cosa Obra 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). in there somewhere but it’s hiding right now. Cellar Williams Selyem 2012 Pinot Noir (Central 86 Ripe fruit and oak mark this simple but like- Selection. —S.H. 88 Coast). Dryly tannic, it has cherry, black able wine that’s all about summer raspberries and abv: 13.8% Price: $40 tea, mushroom and sandalwood flavors that are cherries. There’s a good balance of acidity and some ready to drink now. —S.H. firm tannins, but it’s a wine to drink now. —S.H. Buena Vista 2012 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This abv: 13.6% Price: $39 abv: 14.2% Price: $27 88 is a good price for a Pinot of this quality. On the plus side, it’s dry, tannic and silky, with Bruliam 2012 Sangiacomo Vineyard Pinot E16 2012 Bowland Ranch Pinot Noir (Ben- pomegranate, cola and cherry skin flavors, as well 87 Noir (Sonoma Coast). This Pinot is all about 86 nett Valley). Soft and earthy, this Pinot has as complexing notes of portobello mushrooms and fruit, which is both its strength and its limitation. good raspberry and cherry fruit and cola flavors, sandalwood. It’s a little rustic and won’t age, and Raspberries, strawberries, persimmons are there, and a nice application of oak. But it lacks the struc- shows best if decanted before drinking. —S.H. alongside caramelized, buttery oak. The finish is ture to give it liveliness. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 tannic and dry. Drink by 2016, after decanting. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 —S.H. De Loach 2010 Vineyard Designate Pinot abv: 14.2% Price: $46 Envolve 2012 Lennox Vineyard Pinot Noir 88 Noir (Green Valley). Although the wine is la- 86 (Russian River Valley). Raspberries, cher- beled a Vineyard Designate, it’s a blend of multiple Forchini 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Pinot Noir ries, cola and persimmons are the flavors of this vineyards. Dry, fairly full-bodied and tannic, it has 87 (Russian River Valley). It’s dry and silky fairly standard Pinot Noir. It’s dry and delicately complex cherry, currant, licorice and sandalwood in tannins, with good acidity brightening cherry, structured, with good acidity and a discrete coating flavors. Drinkable now, it will benefit by waiting pomegranate and cola flavors. Ready to drink now. of oak. Drink now. —S.H. until 2017 in the cellar. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $59 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14% Price: $34 Corley Reserve 2011 Estate Grown Pinot Noir Hirsch 2011 East Ridge Pinot Noir (Sonoma Spell 2012 Nichole’s Blend Pinot Noir (So- 86 (Oak Knoll). The Oak Knoll appellation in 88 Coast). Winemaker Ross Cobb, formerly 87 noma County). With raspberry, cola and southern Napa Valley is better known as Cabernet with Williams Selyem and Flowers, did his best, pomegranate flavors, this Pinot is satisfying and country, but Corley depends on the maritime influ- but this Pinot tastes acidic and labored. It has even somewhat complex. It’s soft and gentle in the ence coming up from Carneros to keep Pinot Noir lean flavors of strawberries and raspberries and mouth, and ready to drink now. —S.H. fresh and lively. The results are so-so. This wine is new French oak. The wine isn’t showing well now, abv: 14.3% Price: $39 soft and earthy, with raspberry tea and oak flavors. seemingly a victim of the harsh vintage. Its future is —S.H. problematic. —S.H. Spell 2012 Terra de Promissio Pinot Noir abv: 14.2% Price: $38 abv: 13.4% Price: $85 87 (Sonoma Coast). It’s dry, with just-in-time acidity brightening pleasant raspberry, red currant Roadhouse Winery 2012 Orange Label Pinot Hirsch 2011 West Ridge Pinot Noir (Sonoma and sandalwood flavors. As it warms in the glass, 86 Noir (Russian River Valley). One-dimension- 88 Coast). Grown from a block in the famous certain instabilities emerge. It’s not an ager. —S.H. al but pleasant, it’s dry and brisk in acidity, with Hirsch Vineyard, this Pinot shows the difficulties abv: 14.3% Price: $72 ripe cherry pie filling, pomegranate and persimmon of the cool vintage. It’s too acidic. You’ll find sour flavors, enhanced with new French oak. With some cherry candy and cranberry flavors, with an oaky

54 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 heat from high alcohol, it will drink well through ry, cherry and blackberry fruit flavors, but is a little appreciate because the wine is so tannic. It does not 2017. —S.H. heavy, and that asparagus note is off-putting. —S.H. seem like a cellar candidate. —S.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $49 abv: 14.4% Price: $59 abv: 13.4% Price: $60

Roadhouse Winery 2012 Purple Label Pinot Sojourn 2012 Sangiacomo Vineyard Pinot Michael Pozzan 2011 Pinot Noir (Russian Riv- 86 Noir (Sonoma Mountain). There’s a slightly 85 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Soft and rather sim- 82 er Valley). Feels harsh in the mouth, mostly unripe vegetal note to this Pinot. Despite some good ple, it conveys raspberry jam, cola, sweetened herb because the fruit is too thin to balance out the acids black raspberries and currants and oak, that green tea and smoky oak flavors. It’s an easy Pinot to drink and tannins. It has watery, dry flavors of cola and note persists, modulating the wine’s pleasures. now. —S.H. pomegranates. —S.H. Drink now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $54 abv: 13.5% Price: $19 abv: 14.8% Price: $49 Whitcraft 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Ynez Val- Soquel Vineyards 2012 Lester Family Vine- Sojourn 2012 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot 85 ley). Lots of tannins and acidity in this dry, 82 yard Partners’ Reserve Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz 86 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Grown in a celebrated rather overripe Pinot. It has flavors of prunes, cher- Mountains). It’s soft, lacking structure and vital- vineyard, this Pinot isn’t showing well at this point. ries and oak. Hard to see it developing, so drink up. ity, and watery in raspberry jam flavors, with some It’s heavy and soft, and the raspberry-cherry flavors —S.H. mushroomy, vegetal notes. —S.H. are compromised by a vegetal quality. Decant and abv: 13.5% Price: $40 abv: 13.7% Price: $40 drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.6% Price: $54 Annabella 2012 Special Selection Pinot Noir Soquel Vineyards 2010 Lester Family Vine- 84 (Carneros). It has silky texture, brisk acidity 82 yard Partners’ Reserve Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Sojourn 2012 Rogers Creek Vineyard Pinot and pleasant cherry, cola, tobacco and spice flavors. Mountains). Soft and vegetal, it has steamed as- 86 Noir (Sonoma Coast). Dry and medium- —S.H. paragus, mushroom and cherry cola flavors. —S.H. bodied in the mouth, it has raspberry and cherry abv: 14.1% Price: $18 abv: 14.8% Price: $50 fruit flavors, with pleasantly earthy notes of sweet- ened herb tea. However, a subtle but noticeable E16 2012 E16 Selection Pinot Noir (Sonoma The Mountain Winery 2010 Estate Reserve note of green unripeness pervades the aroma and 84 County). Dry and silky in the mouth, it has 82 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Blame it persists into the finish. —S.H. cherry, cola and sandalwood flavors. However, the on the cold vintage. The wine just isn’t ripe, with abv: 14.2% Price: $48 wine is compromised by a mushroomy, vegetal un- mint, mushroom, asparagus and sour cherry candy ripeness. Drink up. —S.H. flavors. —S.H. Spell 2012 Marimar Estate Vineyard Pinot abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 13.9% Price: $47 86 Noir (Sonoma Coast). This Pinot is one- dimensional, although it originated in the famous Geyser Peak 2012 Pluto’s Fury Pinot Noir Dante 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (California). Marimar Estate vineyard. The fruit is there, in the 84 (Russian River Valley). Dry and somewhat 81 This is an uninteresting wine, dry and acidic, form of cherries, pomegranates and cola, but the heavy, it has cherry jam and oak flavors. —S.H. with watered-down raspberry flavors. —S.H. structure is lacking, leading to serious doubts as to abv: 14.4% Price: $28 abv: 13.5% Price: $10 the wine’s ageability. —S.H. abv: 14.2% Price: $72 Sojourn 2012 Campbell Ranch Vineyard Pi- 84 not Noir (Sonoma Coast). The aroma imme- SYRAH E16 2012 Trenton 1880 Pinot Noir (Russian diately suggests green vegetables, perhaps broccoli. 85 River Valley). This wine has a soft, earthy You’ll find some raspberry jam flavors, but they’re Krupp Brothers 2009 Black Bart Stagecoach dullness, despite decent raspberry, cola and oak fla- thin, and disappear into a quick finish. On the plus 92 Vineyard Syrah (Napa Valley). The winery vors. It’s not an ager, so drink up. —S.H. side, the wine is dry, silky and elegantly structured. has been quietly building up a solid track record abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Drink up. —S.H. with this bottling, and with the 2009, they’ve pro- abv: 14.2% Price: $59 duced their best yet. The wine is gigantic in every E16 2012 Upper Bench Pinot Noir (Santa Lu- respect. Vast, deep flavors of roasted coffee bean, 85 cia Highlands). An unripe mushroom note Soquel Vineyards 2012 Partners’ Reserve blackberry, currant, violets and dark chocolate are leaps from the aroma . Once you taste it, it’s pretty 84 Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). It’s soft complex, with plenty of toasted oak in the bargain. rich in raspberries, red currants and oak, but that and simple, with earthy flavors of mushrooms, cola The tannins are strong, strong, strong, numbing the earthy, fungal flavor persists into the finish. —S.H. and raspberries that lead to a dry, fairly tannic fin- palate. While nobody can assure you it has a long- abv: 14.4% Price: $35 ish. —S.H. term future, this should evolve nicely with time; abv: 13.7% Price: $40 drink through 2022. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Lost Angel 2012 Pinot Noir (California). A abv: 15.4% Price: $65 85 pretty good buy, it gets the Pinot concept Whitcraft 2012 Pence Ranch Clone 2A Pinot across in a light-bodied, silky wine, with brisk acid- 84 Noir (Santa Ynez Valley). It’s keen in acid- MacLaren 2011 Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah ity and pleasant raspberry and red currant flavors. ity and somewhat overripe, with the taste of prune 91 (Napa Valley). This Syrah shows the dramat- The wine, from Foley, illustrates the company’s ef- macaroons. It’s also pretty tannic. Doesn’t seem ic richness of almost any Stagecoach red. Midnight forts to penetrate the everyday price tier. —S.H. likely to develop with age. —S.H. black in color, it’s enormously extracted in black- abv: 13.5% Price: $11 abv: 13.7% Price: $60 berry jam fruit, with complex notes of grilled meat, black pepper, licorice, violets and subtle minerals. Sojourn 2012 Ridgetop Vineyard Pinot Noir Whitcraft 2012 Pence Ranch Swan Selection The tannins are huge, but furry and pliable. If you 85 (Sonoma Coast). A green, vegetal streak in 84 Pinot Noir (Santa Ynez Valley). This is a se- have to drink it now, give it a few hours in the de- the aroma and the flavor compromises this other- vere Pinot Noir, dry and acidic and unflattering to canter. But it should benefit by reposing until 2017 wise promising Pinot Noir. It has some rich raspber- the palate. There are some good, complex cherry, in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. currant, tea and spice flavors, but they’re hard to abv: 14.2% Price: $45

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People’s Wine Revolution 2012 Massa Ranch mouth-numbing tannins. But it’s also vastly rich black color and impenetrable tannins and dryness. 91 Syrah (Yountville). This is a great price for a in blackberries, dark chocolate, cassis liqueur, pep- This wine surely wants until 2020 in the cellar. Cel- single-vineyard Syrah from the Napa Valley region pery spices, smoky oak, and a note of bacon, with lar Selection. —S.H. of Yountville. The wine is bone dry, acidic and tan- all its umami attractions. Showing power but not abv: 14.7% Price: $35 nic, with deep, impressive blackberry, black cur- much finesse now, it will hold through 2017. Beyond rant, green tea, charred meat and black pepper fla- that, its future is risky. —S.H. Summers 2011 Petite Sirah (Knights Valley). vors. It improves a lot with decanting, and overall is abv: 14.2% Price: $38 88 Tannic and dry, it’s one tough wine, stinging impressive. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. the gums. But it has plenty of ripe blackberry, cof- abv: 14.2% Price: $18 Novy 2011 Rosella’s Vineyard Syrah (Santa fee, pepper and toasty flavors, and should age well. 88 Lucia Highlands). Hard tannins, dryness Hold onto it until 2019. Cellar Selection. —S.H. Novy 2011 Garys’ Vineyard Syrah (Santa and brisk acidity can’t hide the enormous core of abv: 13.9% Price: $40 90 Lucia Highlands). Some wineries releasing blackberries and currants. It was clearly grown in a new Garys’ Syrah would charge a lot more, but a cool climate. The wine doesn’t seem likely to de- Coquerel Family Wine Estates 2010 La Petite Novy keeps their prices moderate. While this wine velop, so drink soon, with barbecue to cut through 86 Sirah (Calistoga). This wine shows plenty of is enormously tannic and dry, it shows a complex the tannins. —S.H. Petite Sirah-ness, from the dark color, dryness and range of blackberry and stone fruit, tobacco, cur- abv: 14.2% Price: $32 hard tannins to the blackberry, leather and pepper- rant, charred meat bone, black pepper and mineral corn flavors, touched with smoky oak. It’s difficult flavors, with the oak influence evident but subtle. Little Vineyards 2011 Syrah (Sonoma Valley). to enjoy now, being so tannic, so age it until at least Given the extreme dryness and tannins, as well as 87 With strong, upfront black currant, leather, 2022. Cellar Selection. —S.H. significant alcohol, the question is will the wine black pepper and sandalwood flavors, this is a po- abv: 14% Price: $35 age. It doesn’t seem likely to, so decant and drink up tent wine. The tannins are big, too, somewhat dry- through 2020. —S.H. ing, but the fruit gives richness. Fine to drink now abv: 14.8% Price: $32 with beef, lamb and game. —S.H. ZINFANDEL abv: 15.2% Price: $35 MacLaren 2011 Atoosa’s Vineyard Syrah Williams Selyem 2012 Papera Vineyard Zin- 89 (Russian River Valley). With firm tannins Austin Hope 2012 Hope Family Vineyard Syr- 94 fandel (Russian River Valley). For full review and generous blackberry jam, crispy bacon and 86 ah (Paso Robles). A soft, simple wine, lack- see page 4. black pepper flavors, this wine is California ripe all ing structure but rich in flavor. Blackberries, cher- abv: 14.7% Price: $55 the way. It’s pretty upfront, but has some complex ries, licorice and milk chocolate flood the mouth, mineral and floral notes. Drink through 2019. —S.H. making the wine instantly likeable, but not ageable. Novy 2012 Carlisle Vineyard Zinfandel (Rus- abv: 13.2% Price: $40 —S.H. 90 sian River Valley). Good price for a Zin this abv: 15.5% Price: $42 complex, from a well-regarded vineyard. The wine MacLaren 2011 Samantha’s Vineyard Syrah has wild berry, herb, currant, coffee, mineral and 89 (Russian River Valley). Ripely opulent, it’s Turiya 2008 Camp 4 Vineyard Syrah (Santa spice flavors. If you think you’re getting all sorts explosive in blackberry jam and red currants, with 85 Ynez Valley). It’s so astringent, your palate of non-Zinfandel notes, you are. The old vineyard, the grilled meat bone and black pepper notes of a has to stake out whatever flavor there is. After a planted in 1927, contains Petite Sirah, Alicante cool-climate Syrah. The tannins are strong, but while, you discover subtle blackberries, anise and Bouschet, Tempranillo and who knows what else. finely ground, while the acids will cut right through peppery spices. But the wine remains tough and Drink now–2020. Editors’ Choice. —S.H. meat fat. Give this lovely young wine until 2016– austere, and always will be. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $34 2017 in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 14.3% Price: $85 abv: 13.5% Price: $40 Lake Sonoma 2010 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Val- a-non-ah-mus 2010 Alisos Vineyard Syrah 89 ley). One sip is all you need to know that Novy 2011 Syrah (Santa Lucia Highlands). 82 (Santa Barbara County). You can smell the this is classic Dry Creek Zin. It’s full-bodied, softly 89 Kudos to winemakers Adam and Dianna extreme alcohol level on this Syrah. It pinches the tannic and subtly oaked, but the giveaway is the in- Lee for managing to wrest a Syrah this likeable from nostrils with heat, like a puff of white pepper. It’s tensely briary, brambly wild berry and black pepper the difficult 2011 vintage. It’s almost worth aging, also overripe, with raisin and prune flavors. Drink spice flavors. Drink this lusty wine over the next few with a delicious core of molten blackberries, black up. —S.H. years with short ribs or the greatest barbecue you currants and green tea, and significant tannins, the abv: 15.4% Price: $37 can come up with. —S.H. kind that lock the palate down. And the wine may in abv: 14.9% Price: $35 fact hold and develop a bit. But the fruit won’t out- Millésimé 2007 Le Reflexion Syrah (Santa last the tannins much beyond 2017. Whenever you 81 Ynez Valley). This 100% Syrah hasn’t even St. Francis 2011 Old Vines Zinfandel (So- drink it, give it a few hours in the decanter. —S.H. begun shedding its hard, dry tannins at the age of 89 noma County). It shows the briary, brambly abv: 14.2% Price: $22 nearly seven years, and it probably never will. It’s quality that marks so many Sonoma Zins, especially also overripe, with a porty finish. —S.H. old vine ones. Peppery flavors of dried currants, Novy 2011 Susan’s Hill Syrah (Santa Lucia abv: 14% Price: $48 black licorice and blackberry jam are wrapped into 89 Highlands). It’s all about flavor in this dry, firm, smooth tannins. What a great wine to drink young Syrah. The blackberries, black currants, black with barbecue. —S.H. pepper, grilled meat, tobacco and smoky oak are de- PETITE SIRAH abv: 15% Price: $20 licious and complex, but the wine is very dry and tannic. The fruit isn’t there, so it probably won’t Denier-Handal 2010 Petite Sirah (Alexan- XYZin 2011 Reserve Zinfandel (Dry Creek age. Decant it for a few hours and drink now. —S.H. 89 der Valley). There’s something Alexander 88 Valley). A fructose and oaky richness gives abv: 15.4% Price: $34 Valley-esque in the soft complexity of the tannins, jamminess to the raspberries, cherries and cola. and the slight herbaceousness that accompanies the The Dry Creek Valley origin shows up in a certain Monticello Vineyards 2010 Estate Grown black currants, cured tobacco and grilled meat. It’s 88 Syrah (Oak Knoll). It’s pretty hard in also a classic Petite Syrah, with that variety’s inky

56 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 elegance of structure, especially the acid-tannin vors. It’s not ageable, but shows a certain elegance rich. The wine should age well through 2020, but balance. Drink now. —S.H. of structure. —S.H. there’s no reason not to drink it now. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 abv: 14.1% Price: $35 abv: 15.5% Price: $130

Novy 2012 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Silenus 2010 Merlot (Napa Valley). A simple Corley Reserve 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 87 It shows ultrarich tannins and a flavor com- 87 Merlot, but likeable enough, with ripe, jam- 94 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 4. plexity ranging from briary wild blackberries and my raspberry, prune and cherry flavors. —S.H. Cellar Selection. prunes to currants, nettles, sweet tea and softened abv: 14.5% Price: $36 abv: 14.2% Price: $80 cola. It’s absolutely dry, despite or perhaps because of very high alcohol. The wine is unapologetic about Kirkland Signature 2012 Signature Series Corley 2010 State Lane Vineyard Cabernet that ripeness, instead asking only to be happily 86 Merlot (Oakville). For full review see page 94 Sauvignon (Yountville). Tight, tannic and paired with barbecue. —S.H. 11. undrinkable now because it’s so young, this 100% abv: 15.7% Price: $20 abv: 14.5% Price: $15 Cabernet needs a great deal of time to come around. Right now, it’s hard as nails, a wine whose astrin- Adelaida 2011 Michaels’ Estate Vineyard Zin- Kunde 2011 Kinneybrook Merlot (Sonoma gency stings the gums despite impressively intense- 86 fandel (Paso Robles). High alcohol, clocking 86 County). A simple Merlot, it’s easy to drink, ly ripe blackberry jam and black currant flavors. It in at 16.5% by volume, is the overwhelming fact and will be very nice with everyday fare like burg- should be great in 2020–2025. Cellar Selection. of this Zin. It gives it a jalapeño pepper heat, but ers or tacos. It’s dry and tannic, yet rich in cherries —S.H. also is responsible for the fantastically ripe cherry, and red currants, with a smooth coating of toasty abv: 14.1% Price: $72 raisin and rum punch deliciousness. Partner it with oak. —S.H. barbecue. —S.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $17 Corley 2010 Yewell Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- abv: 16.5% Price: $36 94 gnon (St. Helena). Ripe, opulent black cur- Silenus 2010 Danais Merlot (Napa Valley). rants and violets, melted into liquid and bathed in Denier-Handal 2009 Zinfandel (Alexander 86 With easy raspberry, cherry and sandal- toasty oak, are the flavors of this 100% Cabernet. 86 Valley). A good, but rustic Zinfandel, it’s wood flavors, this has the softness you want in Mer- Alcohol brings subtle heat and sweet glycerine, but ripe in blackberries and beef jerky, with some over- lot, although it lacks some complexity. —S.H. the finish is dry and long. It’s a beautiful evocation ripe notes of raisins and prunes. Decant it for an abv: 14.5% Price: $30 of St. Helena terroir, but needs aging. Give it a try in hour or two and then enjoy with BBQ. —S.H. 2018, and it should have no trouble gliding well into abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Millésimé 2011 Merlot (Alexander Valley). the 2020s. Cellar Selection. —S.H. 82 It’s acidic and tannic, with thin blackberry abv: 14.2% Price: $72 Valley of the Moon 2010 Zinfandel (Sonoma flavors and even some overripe raisin notes. —S.H. 83 County). Overripe flavors of raisins and abv: 14% Price: $36 Emblem 2011 Oso Vineyard Cabernet Sauvi- prunes compromise this Zinfandel. It’s dry and 93 gnon (Napa Valley). It is instructive to com- pretty tannic, and the alcohol is high, giving it a hot, pare this single-vineyard Cabernet with the win- porty finish. —S.H. CABERNETS & BLENDS ery’s regular ’11 Cab. The latter is rich and beautiful abv: 14.9% Price: $30 to drink now. This one, with mountain origins, is Coomber Family Ranch 2010 Private Reserve far harder in tannins, but equally classic, showing XYZin 2012 Zinfandel (California). Jammy, 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full wild blueberry, blackberry and cassis flavors, with 83 extracted cherry and raspberry fruit gives review see page 3. a granitic stoniness from the earth. Your window of an almost sweet edge, augmented by caramelized abv: 14.1% Price: $126 drinkability starts in 2019. Cellar Selection. —S.H. oak. It’s a simple, hearty wine, meant for simple, abv: 14.4% Price: $60 hearty food. —S.H. Krupp Brothers 2010 M5 Stagecoach Vine- abv: 14.5% Price: $15 95 yard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Monticello Vineyards 2010 Tietjen Vineyard Grown in one of the valley’s best vineyards, it’s 93 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). This Alexander Valley Vineyards 2012 Sin Zin eminently ageable. The flavors of black currants and 100% Cabernet is very rich in blackberries and 82 Zinfandel (Alexander Valley). Some vegetal minerals are intense and fine, complexed with new black currants, with a thick coating of hard tannins. notes accompany the blackberries and cherries of French oak. However, the strong tannins will jacket It’s bone dry, with crunchy acidity, but not particu- this spicy Zin. It’s pretty uncomplicated. Drink now the wine for a long time before they begin to fall out. larly drinkable now. Age until at least 2022 to let it with everyday fare. —S.H. Don’t even think of popping the cork before 2024, begin to throw some sediment and soften up.Cellar abv: 14.7% Price: $20 and it could be awesome in 2030. Cellar Selection. Selection. —S.H. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $72 Little Vineyards 2012 Zinfandel (Sonoma abv: 14.5% Price: $150 82 Valley). It’s hot and glyceriny-sweet, with Oakville East 2011 Franc ’N Stern Cabernet the overripe blackberries veering into raisins and Oakville East 2010 Core Stone (Oakville). For 93 Franc (Oakville). The name is silly, but the prunes that finish with bitter tannins. —S.H. 95 full review see page 3. Cellar Selection. wine is serious. The winemaker wisely blended in abv: 15.2% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $125 some Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot to add structure to Cab Franc’s seductive fruit. It’s rich in Raymond 2010 Generations Cabernet Sauvi- cherries and raspberries, with great acidity and tan- MERLOT 95 gnon (Napa Valley). Made from various St. nins. It’s pretty oaky, but the fruit stands up to it. Helena vineyards, with some additions from eastern What a beauty with a great steak. Drink now–2018. Monticello Vineyards 2010 Estate Grown Oakville, it expresses all the beauty of Napa Valley —S.H. 90 Merlot (Oak Knoll). Blended with a little Cab. The flavors of blackberries, black currants, abv: 14.5% Price: $125 Cabernet Franc, it’s dry, smoothly tannic and ripe chocolate, licorice and smoky cedar are absolutely in black cherry jam, herb tea and sandalwood fla- delicious. Yet the wine possesses structure, not the Silenus 2010 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- easiest thing to achieve with a 100% Cabernet this 93 gnon (Napa Valley). It’s incredibly rich and

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ripe in blackberries, black currants and dark choco- Monticello Vineyards 2011 Jefferson Cuvée Raymond 2010 District Collection Cabernet late, with a lovely veneer of toasted oak. The tannins 91 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full 89 Sauvignon (St. Helena). The alcohol is hefty are super smooth. Drink now–2020. —S.H. review see page 8. but balanced, giving the wine a heat it wears well. abv: 14.8% Price: $70 abv: 14.1% Price: $42 The tannins are big and thick, while the fruit is all about ripe black cherries and chocolate. It hits Treasure 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley of the Moon 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon the sweet spot, but finishes dry. Drink now–2018. 93 Valley). For full review see page 5. Cellar 91 (Sonoma County). For full review see page 8. —S.H. Selection. Editors’ Choice. abv: 15.5% Price: $85 abv: 14.5% Price: $99 abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Lake Sonoma 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Al- Alexander Valley Vineyards 2010 Cyrus (Al- Boyanci 2011 InSpire ROMAnce Cabernet 88 exander Valley). Soft and one-dimensional 92 exander Valley). Cyrus is the winery’s high- 90 Franc (Napa Valley). For full review see but interesting, this Cabernet has upfront flavors of est expression of Cabernet. This 2010 shows the page 9. blackberry jam, black currants, anise and oak. It’s softness and slight herbaceousness of Alexander abv: 14.7% Price: $65 dry and tannic, but doesn’t have the stuffing to age. Valley, but it’s rich and delicious in blackberries, Drink now–2016. —S.H. cherries, currants and sandalwood. Blended from Emblem 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa abv: 14.5% Price: $40 all five classic Bordeaux varieties, it holds subtle 90 Valley). Rich and velvety, it carries an im- complexity. —S.H. portant mouthfeel consisting of firm tannins, good Olabisi 2009 Gratitude Vineyard Cabernet abv: 14% Price: $65 acidity and a firm, minerally grounding. Fruit is the 88 Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). At the age of star, filling the mouth with blackberries and black four-plus years, this 100% Cabernet is not show- JD 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond currants, and a smoky coating of oak. With a dry ing well. It’s very tannic and dry, with mouthwater- 92 Mountain). Parent company Schramsberg finish, it’s drinking very well now, and will soften ing acidity and a brittle mouthfeel. The flavors are has a great track record with this JD bottling, and through 2018. —S.H. elusive, suggesting black currants, oak and miner- with this 2011, they’ve produced another fine, age- abv: 14.4% Price: $35 als, although it certainly is elegantly structured. It able wine. It’s dry, tannic and complex in blackberry might improve by cellaring until 2022. —S.H. jam, mu shu plum sauce and oak flavors. Beautiful Geyser Peak 2011 Walking Tree Cabernet abv: 14.5% Price: $125 to drink now, it will gain traction through 2020. 90 Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Blended Cellar Selection. —S.H. from various vineyards around the valley, this is a Cult X 2011 Meritage (Alexander Valley). You abv: 14.5% Price: $50 pretty, polished Cabernet for drinking now. Dry and 87 might want to give this intil 2020–2022 in softly tannic, it has lush, appealing black currant, the cellar to come around. Right now, it’s pretty Oakville East 2010 Exposure Cabernet Sauvi- black cherry jam, herb tea and smoky cedar flavors. tannic, with herb-infused blackberry jam and tea 92 gnon (Oakville). Mainly Cabernet, it shows It’s fancy and a good value. —S.H. flavors. Frisky acidity is accented by sweet, toasty the variety’s hard tannins and and black currant abv: 14.5% Price: $28 oak. —S.H. and dark chocolate flavors, but 21% Cabernet Franc abv: 13.9% Price: $56 adds easier notes of sweet cherry jam. Still, it’s Raymond 2009 District Collection Cabernet pretty tannic, and suggests aging until 2021–2022. 90 Sauvignon (Oakville). As delicious and op- Silenus 2010 Danais Cabernet Sauvignon Cellar Selection. —S.H. ulent as they come, yet it’s somewhat formulaic. It’s 87 (Napa Valley). It shows ripe, jammy rasp- abv: 14.5% Price: $90 all about oak, insanely ripe black currant and dark berry and cherry fruit and oak, but it lacks struc- chocolate fruit, ultrasmooth tannins and heat from ture. The flamboyant fruit and Napa elegance lend Raymond 2010 District Collection Cabernet alcohol. —S.H. some appeal. —S.H. 92 Sauvignon (Rutherford). This flamboyant abv: NA Price: $85 abv: 14.5% Price: $36 Cab is pretty oaky, but enormously powerful in fruits, especially red currants and chocolate. The Silenus 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Clos La Chance 2009 JoLi Meritage (Central overall depth and complexity make it a beauty. 90 Valley). Rich and ripe, it holds flavors of 86 Coast). This blend, based on Cabernet, is Drink now–2018. —S.H. black currants, blackberry jam and creamy milk soft in structure, with easily accessible blackberry abv: 16% Price: $85 chocolate. The tannins are thick and fine, almost jam, sugared herb tea, red licorice and oak flavors. sweet in their ripeness. The wine might age, but it’s —S.H. Raymond 2010 District Collection Caber- best enjoyed through 2020 for sheer luxe. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $50 92 net Sauvignon (Calistoga). Ultraripe black abv: 14.5% Price: $45 currant, chocolate, date and oak flavors mark this Forchini 2010 Proprietor’s Reserve Caber- Cabernet. It’s as rich as Raymond’s other District Monticello Vineyards 2010 Estate Grown 86 net Sauvignon (Dry Creek Valley). Slightly Collection Cabs, yet somehow has greater vitality 89 Cabernet Franc (Oak Knoll). It’s softly tannic earthy yet ripe in blackberries and cherries, it also and energy. Drink now, after decanting, and through and fairly sweet in raspberry and cherry jam flavors. carries some overripe raisin notes. The mouthfeel is 2022. —S.H. This will be a lovely wine with steak. —S.H. a little hot in alcohol. —S.H. abv: 15.5% Price: $85 abv: 14.2% Price: $38 abv: 14.5% Price: $34

50 Harvests 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Olabisi 2010 Black Pearl Vineyard Cabernet Handal-Denier 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 91 Valley). For full review see page 7. 89 Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The wine is 100% 86 (Alexander Valley). With a soft, expressive abv: 13.9% Price: $50 Cabernet Sauvignon, and it brims with varietal mouthfeel, it has classic Cabernet flavors of black notes of dryness, strong tannins and black currant currants, plus oaky, chocolaty notes, and finishes Boyanci 2011 InSpire Cabernet Sauvignon and dark chocolate flavors. It’s still shut down, al- dry. The tannins are pretty strong, but it’s not likely 91 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 7. most undrinkable for the hardness. But it could age that this is an ager. Drink through 2016. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $60 well. Begin investigating it in 2018. Cellar Selec- abv: 14.2% Price: $32 tion. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $90

58 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 Kirkland Signature 2012 Meritage (Ruther- core of blackberries and black currants. With rich- olate and anise flavors are complex and delicious. 86 ford). For full review see page 11. ness like this, it should age and improve through —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $14 2020 at least. Cellar Selection. —S.H. abv: 15% Price: $45 abv: 14.8% Price: $70 Olabisi 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- Buena Vista 2012 Legendary Badge (So- 86 ley). This 100% Cabernet is still too hard Geyser Peak 2011 Tectonic (Alexander Valley). 87 noma County). An interesting wine, with in tannins and acids, both which emphasize the 91 The blend on this complex red wine is mainly some captivating features but also some faults. It’s wine’s rasping dryness. There’s a good core of black Cabernet Sauvignon, with some Petit Verdot and pretty soft in the mouth, although the tannins are currants that might emerge after a long time in the what the winery calls “other reds.” It’s the most polished, and the upfront blackberry and raspberry cellar. Perhapstash it away until 2024 and see what interesting of Geyser Peak’s 2011s, showing ripe, fruit flavors are almost sweet, but retreat at the last happens. —S.H. forward black cherry and red currant fruit, but also moment into a dry, spicy finish. The softness pre- abv: 14.7% Price: $65 notes of dried herbs, minerals, bacon, black pepper, cludes aging, so drink soon with almost anything licorice and espresso. While it’s not an ager, it grows calling for a medium-bodied, fruity red wine. —S.H. Clos La Chance 2012 Estate Grown Caber- more interesting as it breathes in the glass. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 85 net Sauvignon (Central Coast). Fruity and abv: 13.5% Price: $28 brightly acidic, this wine is ready to drink now with Gallo Family Vineyards NV Hearty Burgundy steak and beef stew. It’s dry, tannic and simple, with Tablas Creek 2011 Esprit de Tablas (Paso Ro- 87 (California). For full review see page 13. Best blackberry jam, cola and oak flavors. —S.H. 90 bles). Very dry and fairly tannic, it’s severe Buy. abv: 13.3% Price: $18 on first sip and hard to appreciate, although there abv: 12.5% Price: $9/1.5 L are some good black cherry, cola, leather, oak and Turiya 2008 Camp 4 Vineyard Cabernet Sau- black pepper flavors. It’s complex in its own way, Tablas Creek 2012 Patelin de Tablas (Paso 85 vignon (Santa Ynez Valley). At nearly five and gets better as it breathes in the glass. Give it 87 Robles). Blended from Syrah, Grenache, years of age, this wine remains impossibly tannic. a good, long decanting, and drink it now through Mourvèdre and Counoise, it’s a little rustic but a bit It tastes like the grapes simply picked in an unripe 2018. The blend is Mourvèdre, Grenache, Syrah and fancy, with black cherry, leather, pepper and san- state. There are incipient blackberry flavors, but the Counoise, in that order. —S.H. dalwood flavors. Drink up. —S.H. wine will never age properly. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: 13.8% Price: $20 abv: 13.9% Price: $90 Geyser Peak 2011 Devil’s Inkstand (Alexan- Cosa Obra 2011 Proprietor’s Blend (Sonoma Ackerman 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon 89 der Valley). This Cabernet Sauvignon-based 86 County). The blend is Syrah and Grenache. 84 (Coombsville). Despite the relatively low Bordeaux blend has some Petite Sirah folded in, The wine is dry and pretty tannic, but ripe, with alcohol, this wine feels curiously hot, enough to presumably for color and tannins. It’s a big, sturdy jammy cherry and blackberry flavors. It’s also some- lower the score. Chili pepper notes dominate the wine, dry yetsomewhat soft, with complex black what hot in alcohol. It suggests grilled beef, in the fruit. —S.H. currant, blackberry jam, sweetened herb tea and form of tacos or barbecue. —S.H. abv: 13.3% Price: $75 sandalwood flavors. It’s a little rustic, but fine to abv: 14.5% Price: $32 drink now, with everything from hamburgers and Millésimé 2010 Cabernet Franc (Santa Bar- grilled steak to short ribs. —S.H. Niner 2010 Twisted Spur (Paso Robles). 84 bara County). This is a bone dry, tannic, abv: 13.5% Price: $50 86 This blend of Merlot, Petite Sirah, Syrah rather austere wine. It has suggestions of cherry and Cabernet Sauvignon is dry and tannic. Complex skins and red licorice, with brisk acidity. Not an Summerland 2012 Trio (California). The Cal- flavors of cherry and blackberry jam, sandalwood, ager, it needs rich, fatty meats and cheeses for bal- 89 ifornia appellation is because this is a blend bacon and black pepper are interesting but one-di- ance. —S.H. from Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo counties. mensional. But it’s also a little hot in alcohol, with a abv: 14% Price: $36 The big question is if it will age long enough for the glycerine-sweet finish. —S.H. tannins, which are very dry and hard, to resolve. abv: 14.9% Price: $35 Napa Angel by Montes 2009 Aurelio’s The wine is incredibly rich and concentrated in 84 Selection Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Val- black currants and licorice, suggesting that the fruit Onlooker NV Red (California). With a dark ley). While it’s pretty rich in black currants, dark might just outlast the hardness. Give it until 2019 86 color and full body, this dry, tannic wine is chocolate and oak, there is an uneasy vegetal note, and see what it’s doing. Cellar Selection. —S.H. useful at the table with big roasts, barbecue and rich especially in the finish, where the wine turns mush- abv: 14.1% Price: $40 beef and game stews. It has grapy, earthy flavors of roomy. —S.H. blackberries, black licorice and black pepper. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 Niner 2010 Fog Catcher (Paso Robles). The abv: 15.3% Price: $25 88 blend is almost equal parts Cabernet Sau- vignon, Malbec and Cabernet Franc, with some Valley of the Moon 2010 Blend 41 (Sonoma OTHER RED BLENDS Carmenet and Petit Verdot blended in for complex- 86 County). Blended with Zinfandel, Syrah, ity. The wine is easy to like now for its dryness and Petite Sirah, Barbera and Sangiovese, this is a rus- Krupp Brothers 2011 The Doctor (Napa Val- elegance, despite relatively high alcohol. It shows tic, somewhat one-dimensional wine. It’s dry and 93 ley). For full review see page 5. Cellar Se- California ripeness of fruit, with a smooth integra- fruity, with cherry and raspberry jam, bacon, black lection. tion of oak. If there’s a criticism, it’s excessive soft- pepper and cedar flavors. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $90 ness. Drink up. —S.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 14.9% Price: $58 Chalk Hill 2010 Estate Red (Chalk Hill). To call Buena Vista 2012 The Count (Sonoma Coun- 91 this wine huge is an understatement. Blend- Treana 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah 85 ty). here’s a bitter mouthfeel to this wine, ed from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Petit 88 (Paso Robles). The soft ripeness suggests like the dried skins from raisins that are so tannic. Verdot, Syrah and Carmenère, its most notable fea- against aging. But that doesn’t mean it’s not fine The flavors also suggest raisins, along with black ture is tannins. It’s hard, dry and astringent, making now for pairing with steaks, roasts and barbecue. cherries and licorice. It feels hotter than its official it difficult to appreciate now. But there’s a gigantic Dry and tannic, the blackberry, currant, dark choc-

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alcohol reading. Call this wine rustic, and drink it tannins are firm, the acidity a little on the soft side, now. —S.H. making it ready to drink now. —S.H. WASHINGTON abv: 14.5% Price: $20 abv: 14.2% Price: $36 CHARDONNAY Clayhouse 2011 Adobe (Paso Robles). Grill Niner 2011 Bootjack Ranch Sangiovese (Paso 85 up the burgers and ribs to drink with this 88 Robles). Niner’s Sangioveses are always Abeja 2012 Chardonnay (Walla Walla Valley). rustic but satisfying red. Blended with Zinfandel, good, and sometimes interesting. This 2011 shows 94 This is the estate bottling, barrel-fermented Petite Sirah and a bunch of other varieties, it’s dry the variety’s acidity and cherry jam flavors, with in French oak and put through full malolactic. Spice and tannic, with zesty acidity accompanying wild firm tannins and a creamy texture. It’s not an ager, and toast frame perfectly ripened tree fruit flavors blackberry, coffee and pepper flavors. —S.H. but those acids will cut nicely through rich, oily of apple, pear and orange peel. The concentration abv: 13.7% Price: $14 beef dishes. —S.H. and length suggest that this Chardonnay can be cel- abv: 14.1% Price: $30 lared for up to a decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Turiya 2008 Perpetual Bliss Camp 4 Vine- abv: 14.8% Price: $40 84 yard Cabernet Sauvignon-Syrah (Santa Ynez Soquel Vineyards 2010 Luna Matta Vineyards Valley). This blend, from a well-regarded vineyard, 87 Sangiovese (Paso Robles). High in acidity, Abeja 2012 Chardonnay (Washington). is too tannic. It’s like chewing on nails, and the as- as Sangiovese tends to be, this wine also has the 94 Though not at all unsung (in fact, mailing tringency masks whatever charms the wine may light, delicate mouthfeel of Pinot Noir. The alcohol list is closed), Abeja wines offer exceptional quality have, by way of blackberry fruit. —S.H. gives it some body and heat, while the flavors veer for the price across the entire lineup. Case in point: abv: 14% Price: $65 toward black cherries. It’s a good, interesting wine, this super-long, ultradelicious Chardonnay, a gen- although a bit rustic. Won’t age, so drink now with erous wine with green apple, lime and white peach; Pedroncelli 2012 friends.red (Sonoma Coun- rich Italian fare. —S.H. add in notes of butter, brioche and baking spices. 82 ty). This is a mélange of varieties, including abv: 14.4% Price: $35 The length and balance, along with the pure plea- Merlot and Zinfandel. It’s pretty rustic, but gets the sure, far exceed the price. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. job done as a dry red wine, brisk in tannins and with Valley of the Moon 2010 Barbera (Sonoma abv: 13.9% Price: $36 some decent berry fruit. —S.H. 87 County). It’s a big wine, full-bodied, tannic abv: 13.9% Price: $12 and rustic, but rich in blackberry and cherry jam, JM Cellars 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Val- mu shu plum sauce and sandalwood flavors, with a 94 ley). For full review see page 4. Editors’ River Star 2011 Eclipse (Paso Robles). Dry, bacony umami note. Try with pasta in tomato sauce Choice. 82 acidic and tannic, with simple flavors of cof- with sausage. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $35 fee, black currants and black pepper, this wine is abv: 14.7% Price: $35 also overripe, with a raisiny finish. —S.H. Maison Bleue 2012 Au Contraire French abv: 14.6% Price: $29 a-non-ah-mus 2010 Alisos Vineyard Gr- 92 Creek Vineyard Chardonnay (Yakima Valley). 84 enache (Santa Barbara County). Too ripe, Sadly, it’s the last vintage for this single-vineyard Soquel Vineyards 2012 Trinity Rosso (Cali- with red currant and raisin skin flavors giving it a Chardonnay. It captures the subtle blend of yellow 82 fornia). The blend is Zinfandel, Malbec and bitterness despite some tasty chocolate and cherry and green berries and apples, with superior length Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine is dry and full bod- jam richness. The alcohol feels high, leading to a hot and detail. Delicately nuanced barrel flavors bring ied. It conveys earthy flavors of blackberries, herbs finish. —S.H. in hazelnut and cookie characteristics. This has the and not-quite-ripe vegetables. —S.H. abv: 14.9% Price: $32 exceptional acidity to age, despite going through abv: 13.8% Price: $16 complete malolactic fermentation. Editors’ Choice. Tablas Creek 2011 Mourvèdre (Paso Robles). —P.G. Millésimé 2008 Scopire (Santa Ynez Val- 84 This 100% varietal wine shows the difficul- abv: 13% Price: $25 80 ley). Blended from Syrah, Mourvèdre and ties of making Mourvèdre in California. The wine is the two Cabernets, Sauvignon and Franc, this wine bone dry and rather dull, with black cherry, tobacco Forgeron 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Val- feels bitter and acidic in the mouth. It’s very tannic and oak flavors. —S.H. 91 ley). This full-bodied blend of grapes from a and overripe, with flavors of prunes. —S.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $40 wide assortment of top vineyards shows fine acid- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 ity, a good phenolic frame of citrus rind, and core Austin Hope 2012 Hope Family Vineyard Gr- flavors of lemon and grapefruit, green apple and 83 enache (Paso Robles). Way too ripe, with white peach. There’s a seam of butterscotch also, OTHER RED WINES high, hot alcohol framing black cherry jam flavors. from aging in one-third new French Burgundian oak The finish is nice and dry, but the wine lacks bal- barrels. —P.G. Soquel Vineyards 2010 Luna Matta Vine- ance and subtlety. —S.H. abv: 14.1% Price: $28 89 yards Nebbiolo (Paso Robles). The best way abv: 15.5% Price: $42 to understand this wine is to consider a fine Pinot Novelty Hill 2012 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Noir, with its light, silky texture and brisk acidity. 91 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Barrel-fer- Then make it very tannic, and add a smoked meat, SWEET WINE mented and aged sur lie for 10 months, this elegant bacon note to the cherries and raspberries. With a Chardonnay offers immaculate scents and flavors of dry, distinguished finish, it strongly suggests beef Little Vineyards 2012 Late Harvest Zinfandel lemon rind and pith, a dusting of spice, and a gener- dishes, preferably augmented with cheese. —S.H. 83 (Sonoma Valley). Sweetness is what has ous slice of ripe apple. It’s full and luscious in the abv: 14.5% Price: $50 this wine going for it. Beyond the brown sugar, port mouth, with appealing texture, barrel toast and just and glycerine flavors, it’s pretty simple. —S.H. a pat of butter in the finish. —P.G. Draxton 2011 Malbec (Alexander Valley). abv: 14.7% Price: $35/500 ml abv: 13.5% Price: $23 88 The sweet char on a grilled steak will match up with the wine’s oaky, blackberry jam flavors. The Barnard Griffin 2012 Chardonnay (Colum- 90 bia Valley). Opening scents of cracker and Asian pear roll into a concentrated, sophisticated

60 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 effort that was half barrel-fermented. Tart citrus, Red Theory 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia apple and pear fruit is touched lightly with pretty 86 Valley). An innocuous, easy drinking wine VIOGNIER spice. Best Buy. —P.G. with notes of apple and pear pairing with a medium abv: 13.1% Price: $14 bodied, textured feel. Some sugar sweetens the fin- Abeja 2012 Viognier (Walla Walla Valley). ish. —S.S. 95 Simply sensational, this estate-grown Viog- Browne Family Vineyards 2012 Chardon- abv: 12.6% Price: $12 nier raises the bar for everyone. It’s a glorious mesh 90 nay (Columbia Valley). Aged 11 months in of citrus flesh and rind, elevated with spicy high- French oak, the roasty-toasty barrel notes are at the Acre Twenty-one 2012 Chardonnay (Colum- lights of orange, tangerine and Meyer lemon. Out- fore followed by peach and tropical fruit. What it 85 bia Valley). Straight down the fairway with standing concentration, focus and depth, with juicy lacks in subtlety it makes up for with a rich, creamy notes of freshly scooped cantaloupe and pear slices. acidity underlying an astonishing finish.Editors’ mouthfeel that draws out to a lingering finish. —S.S. It’s textured in feel showing little obvious oak influ- Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.9% Price: $32 ence, finishing a bit short. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $30 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Chateau Ste. Michelle 2012 Canoe Ridge Es- Mark Ryan 2012 Viognier (Columbia Valley). 89 tate Chardonnay (Horse Heaven Hills). Aged Duck Pond 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Val- 91 This satiny, slightly waxy Viognier is a blend in a mixture of French oak (32% new) and stain- 85 ley). This feels a bit awkward in the mouth, from Ciel du Cheval, Red Willow and Olsen fruit; for less steel, it shows the best of both with fresh peach with light buttery fruit and a somewhat metallic af- the first time, roughly 10% was fermented in a con- notes and barrel spices intermingling with crème tertaste. Still young, so it could very well knit itself crete egg. Aromatic with yellow apples, lemon curd, fraîche. It’s creamy in feel with the concentration together with a bit more time. Best Buy. —P.G. bee pollen and floral highlights, it’s underscored winnowing slightly toward the finish. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $10 with a lick of wet stone. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 abv: 14.2% Price: $28 Jones of Washington 2013 Chardonnay Januik 2012 Cold Creek Vineyard Chardon- 85 (Wahluke Slope). A straightforward, easy Novelty Hill 2012 Stillwater Creek Vineyard 88 nay (Columbia Valley). Offering pleasant, drinker with notes of pear and melon supported by 91 Viognier (Columbia Valley). A flood of deli- approachable flavors of apple and Asian pear, along a rounded feel and little overt new oak influence. cious, sweet/sour floral and citrus flavors sweeps with streaks of vanilla and butterscotch, this wine —S.S. across the palate, a lush compound of satsuma or- is drinking well and may best be enjoyed while it’s abv: 13.5% Price: $15 ange and highlights of honeysuckle, Meyer lemon fresh and young. —P.G. and apricot. It’s a tart and vivid wine, with lovely abv: 13.5% Price: $30 Latah Creek 2012 Familigia Vineyards Char- concentration and no rough edges. Editors’ Choice. 85 donnay (Ancient Lakes). The winery’s first —P.G. Ken Wright 2011 Celilo Chardonnay (Wash- vintage of Chardonnay from this site, it doesn’t abv: 13.5% Price: $23 88 ington). On the Washington side of the Co- quite seem to have fully ripened but still offers lumbia Gorge, the Celilo Vineyard is an exceptional some enjoyment with light flavors of herbs, apple Jones of Washington 2013 Viognier (Wah- site for Chardonnay. This was sourced from the and vanilla paired with a creamy feel and a tart fin- 88 luke Slope). The aromas are surprisingly 1983 planting, and the relatively old vines and cool ish. —S.S. light for the variety with notes of ripe pear and vintage deliver a wine with excellent minerality, lift, abv: 12.5% Price: $12 peach. It’s full bodied with sweet fruit flavors and drive and focus. The fruit is tangy and yellow/green, a rounded, creamy feel leading to a warm finish. but perfectly ripe; the acid underpinning is fresh Original House Wine 2012 House Wine Char- —S.S. and lively. This has every chance of cellaring until 85 donnay (Columbia Valley). The notes of va- abv: 13.9% Price: $15 2024 or later. Cellar Selection. —P.G. nilla, melon and pear are rounded and creamy in feel abv: 12.8% Price: $32 with a touch of residual sugar (7.5 g/L) helping it go Telaya 2012 Viognier (Columbia Valley). A down easy. —S.S. 87 vibrantly aromatic wine with notes of dried Bridgman 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Val- abv: 12.8% Price: $11 apricot and fresh flowers. It’s full bodied, weighty 87 ley). A directly appealing wine with little in feel with the flavor concentration dissipating to- obvious new oak influence to get in the way of the Radius 2012 Chardonnay (Washington). The ward the warm finish. —S.S. clean pear and pineapple flavors that are stitched 84 aromas are quite faint here but the apricot abv: 13.7% Price: $17 together by just a touch of sweetness. Best Buy. flavors are in abundance on this off-dry, medium- —S.S. bodied easy drinker. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $11 abv: 13% Price: $10 ROUSSANNE

Waterbrook 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (Co- Telaya 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Valley). Barnard Griffin 2012 Roussanne (Columbia 87 lumbia Valley). Barrel notes of toast, butter- 84 There are some good things going on here 91 Valley). All Roussanne from the Gunkel vine- scotch and spice are at the fore along with melted but it feels like they are struggling to get to the yard, this is a fine expression of pure varietal fruit. butter and peach on this 100% Canyon Vineyard surface with lees notes and alcoholic warmth over- A fresh and delicious blend of flavors, it touches on Ranch wine. It’s full bodied with a rich, creamy feel, whelming the palate’s appealing, creamy texture. peach, apricot, lemon curd and pineapple, with im- wanting a bit more concentration and acidity to —S.S. pressive concentration through a long, clean finish. keep it together. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $23 Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.46% Price: $18 abv: 13.3% Price: $20 Wild Meadows 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia WildHaven 2012 Chardonnay (Columbia Val- 84 Valley). A straightforward wine with the Novelty Hill 2012 Stillwater Creek Vineyard 87 ley). The aromas of peach and pear are light Viognier addition (10%) providing much of the lift 88 Roussanne (Columbia Valley). Tart and but it’s the clean, creamy palate that delivers the to the light jasmine, peach and persimmon aromas sharply-defined, this single-vineyard effort offers goods on this well priced, easy drinker. Best Buy. and flavors. It’s light, slightly sweet in style with edgy flavors of melon, apple, pineapple and jicama. —S.S. little apparent oak influence. —S.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $11 abv: 13.5% Price: $12

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The vineyard’s signature minerality is evident as club-only selection makes you wish for more. It Tranche 2011 Slice of Pape Blanc (Colum- well. —P.G. has lovely layering of citrus pith and rind flavors, a 92 bia Valley). This Southern Rhône blend of abv: 13.5% Price: $23 mouth-cleansing minerality, and exceptional depth Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne is pretty and of flavor. Finished completely dry, it registers just smooth, with a pleasing array of light tropical fruits, Doyenne 2012 Roussanne (Red Mountain). 12% alcohol. —P.G. good acidity and a finishing pat of butter. Drink 87 This wine is noticeably high-toned and vola- abv: 12% Price: $30 (happily!) through 2017. —P.G. tile, with penetrating aromatics that impact the pal- abv: 14.2% Price: $30 ate. The fruit is big, very ripe, with flavors of sweet Seven Hills 2012 Riesling (Columbia Val- melon. The alcohol brings some heat to the finish. 90 ley). Sourced from mature plantings in Brian Carter Cellars 2012 Oriana White Wine —P.G. cool sites, this exemplary Riesling is technically off 91 Blend (Yakima Valley). For full review see abv: 14% Price: $38 dry, but retains its apple-fresh snap and tang. The page 7. Editors’ Choice. sweet/tart fruit flavors include abundant peaches, abv: 13.6% Price: $22 nectarines and apples, and the mouthfeel is ripe and GEWÜRZTRAMINER full, the finish lingering.Best Buy. —P.G. DeLille Cellars 2012 Chaleur Estate Blanc abv: 11.9% Price: $15 91 (Columbia Valley). Modeled on a white Bor- Two Vintners 2012 O.G. Gewürztraminer deaux, this is a lovely, lightly toasty blend of two- 90 (Yakima Valley). Sourced entirely from Latah Creek 2012 Riesling (Ancient Lakes). thirds Sauvignon Blanc and one-third Sémillon. the Olsen vineyard, macerated on the skins for six 87 An aromatically appealing wine with notes The pretty fruit mixes candied lemon, peach and weeks, and aged 10 months in neutral oak, this “or- of Granny Smith apples, peach and herbs. It drinks pear with streaks of butterscotch and a suggestion ange” wine is bone dry, with head-turning aromas medium sweet with jasmine and stone fruit flavors. of hazelnuts. —P.G. of orange liqueur, rose petals and citrus peel. Sip it Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 13.1% Price: $37 slightly chilled as a warm weather apéritif. —P.G. abv: 10.5% Price: $10 abv: 13.9% Price: $28 Covington Cellars 2012 Klipsun Vineyard Jones of Washington 2013 Riesling (Ancient 88 Blanc (Red Mountain). Roughly half stain- Summit Estates 2012 Gewürztraminer 86 Lakes). Still settling into its skin, this wine less-fermented Sauvignon Blanc and half barrel- 82 (Washington). Quite aromatically re- shows a light effervescence when first poured that fermented Sémillon, this has noticeable sweetness strained for the variety with notes of jasmine and lifts the notes of freshly cut pear, mandarin orange that puts a sugary edge on the flavors. Pineapple flowers. It’s medium sweet but lacks cohesion to and wild flowers. It drinks off dry, with the concen- and Meyer lemon fruits are round and full-bodied. hold it all together. —S.S. tration of the stone fruit flavors somewhat wanting. This should be chilled to cut down some of the sug- abv: 12.6% Price: $9 —S.S. ary flavors. —P.G. abv: 11.6% Price: $13 abv: 13.2% Price: $25 B. Lovely 2013 Gewürztraminer (Washington). 81 A disjointed wine with notes of ale and pear. Bridgman 2012 Riesling (Columbia Valley). Parejas Cellars 2012 Wysling Band of Sisters The palate is off dry and oily in feel, with some bit- 84 The aromas of peach and mandarin orange 86 White (Columbia Valley). A blend of Mar- terness on the finish. —S.S. are surprisingly light for the variety. It drinks medi- sanne, Roussanne and Grenache Blanc, slightly oxi- abv: 11.9% Price: $12 um sweet with the concentration of the stone fruit dized but still drinking nicely, this is bone dry and flavors a bit light. —S.S. scented with lightly toasted grain. Ripe apple fruit abv: 12.1% Price: $11 and a whiff of honeysuckle add interest. Drink soon. RIESLING —P.G. Moonbeam 2012 Riesling (Washington). abv: 13.2% Price: $16 Januik 2012 Bacchus Vineyard Riesling (Co- 84 With 45g/L residual sugar, it drinks quite 95 lumbia Valley). Spectacular is the word that sweet but doesn’t have the acidity to hold together comes to mind here. Tasted over many hours, this its notes of green grapes, jasmine and stone fruit. OTHER WHITE WINES stunning effort proved itself over and over. A mix —S.S. of citrus oils, tree fruits, a hint of honey, tea, lemon abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Tranche 2012 Pinot Gris (Columbia Val- verbena and more, it delivers astonishing complex- 92 ley). Tranche does an excellent job with ity and flavor for such a young wine. It should con- Paradise Peak 2012 Riesling (Washington). this grape; here the palate-filling flavors are round tinue to evolve and improve from 2024–2034. Cel- 84 A sweet-smelling wine with notes of over- and fleshy, with peach and pear fruit. Short-term lar Selection. —P.G. ripe pear, pineapple and jasmine. It also drinks neutral-barrel aging has further smoothed out the abv: 12.5% Price: $20 quite sweet (26g/L residual sugar) but doesn’t have mouthfeel, and it finishes delightfully with just a the acid or flavor concentration to match. —S.S. hint of butter. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Pacific Rim 2012 Solstice Vineyard Riesling abv: 11% Price: $9 abv: 14.1% Price: $18 93 (Yakima Valley). Just under 1% residual sugar, this Riesling, sourced from vines planted in Barnard Griffin 2012 Fumé Blanc Sauvignon 1972, opens with a juicy mix of grapefruit, orange WHITE BLENDS 91 Blanc (Columbia Valley). This tangy, all- and tangerine fruit. Textural and dense, it carries stainless, lightly grassy, dry Sauvignon Blanc is a across and through the palate into a lingering, min- Maison Bleue 2012 Métis Blanc (Columbia pure and definitive elaboration of the grape’s va- eral-drenched finish. Superb already, it could be 92 Valley). The inaugural vintage of this Mar- rietal character. Penetrating and crisp, it would cellared through 2024 or longer. Cellar Selection. sanne, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne blend is be hard to ask for more from a $9 wine. Best Buy. —P.G. impressive, with potent aromas of grapefruit and —P.G. abv: 13.3% Price: $24 flavors of rind and pith. It’s crisply defined, with abv: 12.8% Price: $9 excellent density and natural acidity. Still quite Figgins 2013 Estate Riesling (Walla Walla young, it’s a wine to tuck away in the cellar until Jones of Washington 2013 Pinot Gris (An- 90 Valley). From the only Riesling vines 2019. —P.G. 88 cient Lakes). The light and mineral aromas planted in the Walla Walla AVA, this Figgins wine abv: 13% Price: $30

62 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 belie the palate’s full, rounded fruit flavors with and lime leaf that needs more acid to pull them all gle-vineyard Syrah is a masterful mix of tart fruit, some sugar sweetening the finish.Best Buy. —S.S. together. —S.S. herb, stem and earth flavors. Pomegranate and red abv: 13.8% Price: $13 abv: 11% Price: $9 currant, umami and gunflint highlights are all in fo- cus. —P.G. Jones of Washington 2013 Sauvignon Blanc abv: 14.1% Price: $50 86 (Ancient Lakes). The aromas of herbs, pink ROSÉS grapefruit and guava don’t seem entirely knitted Tamarack Cellars 2010 Ciel du Cheval Vine- together on this young wine. It’s dry and fleshy in Doyenne 2012 Rosé (Yakima Valley). The 92 yard Syrah (Red Mountain). Displaying ex- feel but doesn’t have the concentration to bring it 91 color of a vibrant sunset, it’s composed of ceptional single grape/single vineyard particularity, all together. —S.S. 55% Grenache, 39% Mourvèdre, and 6% Cinsault. this tight and focused wine delivers pinpoint flavors abv: 12% Price: $15 The lush and layered fruit flavors move from ripe of berries, berries and more berries. Light streaks of summer strawberries into a mineral-drenched fruit cola, earth and baking spices bring further complex- Latah Creek 2012 Hyatt Vineyards Muscat salad. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. ity and interest. Drink now or cellar through 2024. 86 Canelli (Rattlesnake Hills). A fragrant wine abv: 14.1% Price: $28 Cellar Selection. —P.G. with notes of perfume, lychee and orange peel. It’s abv: 14.8% Price: $40 medium sweet (40g/L residual sugar) with a floral Barnard Griffin 2013 Rosé of Sangiovese (Co- lift.Best Buy. —S.S. 90 lumbia Valley). For full review see page 12. Two Vintners 2011 Stony Vine Vineyard Syrah abv: 10.5% Price: $11 Best Buy. 92 (Walla Walla Valley). Sourced from a vine- abv: 12.9% Price: $12 yard in the region known as the Rocks, this is a bit Parejas Cellars 2012 Dutchman Vineyard like a Cayuse light—in a good way. Toasty, lightly 85 Albariño (Yakima Valley). Still a bit of a Tranche 2013 Blackrock Vineyard Pink Pape funky and flavorful with a lively mix of purple and novelty in the Northwest, Albariño can sometimes 90 Rosé (Yakima Valley). Now sourced from blue fruits, it has palate-coating but not oppres- ripen in the cooler sites, such as this. Clean and the estate vineyard on Red Mountain, this excep- sive weight. Highlights of cocoa, umami, pepper and crisp, with clear apple flavors, this is a pleasant, tional rosé includes portions of Counoise, Cinsault earth keep things interesting through a long finish. though somewhat generic, all-purpose dry white and Grenache. Though the pale, coppery pink shade Editors’ Choice. —P.G. wine. —P.G. suggests a light wine, this is fragrant and full-bod- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 abv: 13.1% Price: $15 ied, with salmonberry and strawberry fruit, light spice and excellent length. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Tamarack Cellars 2011 Syrah (Columbia Val- abv: 12.5% Price: $16 91 ley). Still quite compact with youthful ten- SWEET WINES sion and energy, this will reward your patience. Dense flavors of raspberry, boysenberry and cassis Latah Creek 2012 Hyatt Vineyards Moscato SYRAH are streaked with espresso and dark chocolate. The 87 (Rattlesnake Hills). A perfumed wine with length is impressive. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. notes of lychee, orange peel and honeysuckle. It’s Mark Ryan 2011 Wild Eyed Syrah (Red Moun- abv: 14.5% Price: $25 sweet (100g/L residual sugar) with mandarin or- 95 tain). For full review see page 3. Cellar Se- ange flavors that linger on the finish. —S.S. lection. Tranche 2010 Estate Grown Syrah (Walla Wal- abv: 6% Price: $15 abv: 14.9% Price: $48 91 la Valley). Now a strong focus for the Tranche estate, this is inky purple/black in the glass, almost Latah Creek 2012 Familigia Vineyards Gorman 2011 The Pixie Syrah (Red Moun- impenetrable, and lushly aromatic with dried ber- 87 Sweet Riesling (Ancient Lakes). The winery’s 94 tain). This is 100% varietal, sourced from ries, plums and cherries. A generous vein of vanilla first ’Sweet Riesling’ is somewhat aromatically reti- three excellent Red Mountain vineyards—Klipsun, and tobacco—from 28 months in French oak—leads cent for the variety with notes of lychee, jasmine Kiona and Ciel du Cheval. It seamlessly fuses flavors into chewy, ripe tannins. —P.G. and apricot. The palate lives up to the label though of fruit, barrel (35% new) and the minerality of the abv: NA Price: $35 with sweet (70g/L residual sugar) apricot and fresh terroir, with a generous midpalate of blackberry and mango flavors that linger on the finish. —S.S. black cherry, soaked in liquorous oak. Highlights of Doyenne 2011 Signature Syrah (Red Moun- abv: 10.5% Price: $13 mineral, pepper and a whiff of brioche come into 90 tain). The winery’s most-available Syrah is play as well. Lovely as it is already, look for further co-fermented with a splash of Viognier. The fruit is B. Lovely 2012 Late Harvest Riesling (Wash- improvement through 2019–2022. Cellar Selec- tight and compact, clean with red and black berry 85 ington). A sweet (70g/L residual sugar) tion. —P.G. flavors, framed by firm, polished tannins. —P.G. crowd pleaser with notes of canned pear, candied abv: 15% Price: $45 abv: 14.4% Price: $42 apple and granulated sugar. However, it doesn’t have the acid to stand up to those flavors.Best Buy. Januik 2011 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Syrah Doyenne 2011 Grand Ciel Vineyard Syrah —S.S. 94 (Red Mountain). This delightfully pure ex- 89 (Red Mountain). Light cranberry fruit is set abv: 9.5% Price: $10 pression of the Syrah grape seduces from the first against drying tannins. The mouthfeel is astringent, sniff, which sails along on a flying carpet of blue almost chalky, with a whiff of the barnyard evident. Paradise Peak 2012 Sweet Riesling (Wash- and purple fruits, licorice, clove and tobacco. The Not as substantial as previous editions of this sin- 85 ington). A perfumed wine with notes of beguiling aromas continue in the mouth, where the gle-vineyard wine, this is one to drink up while it’s candied orange, peach and lavender. The palate is wine assumes a seamless, plump and powerful pres- young. —P.G. sweet and easy drinking. Chill down and enjoy. Best ence. Ciel du Cheval Syrah is every bit as good as abv: 14.2% Price: $65 Buy. —S.S. the Bordeaux grapes for which the vineyard is most abv: 11% Price: $10 famous. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Novelty Hill 2011 Stillwater Creek Vineyard abv: 14.4% Price: $35 88 Syrah (Columbia Valley). The Stillwa- Paradise Peak 2012 Sweet Gewürztraminer ter Creek vineyard bottling of Novelty Hill Syrah 83 (Washington). A sweet (40 g/L residual Maison Bleue 2011 Boushey Vineyard Liberté shows a bit more concentration than its sibling in sugar), easy drinker with notes of spice, rose petal 92 Syrah (Yakima Valley). As always, this sin- 2011, with whiffs of pepper, earth, soy and umami.

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There’s a saline character as well, reflective of the Gorman 2010 The Bully Cabernet Sauvignon mineral-rich soil, and a pleasant taste of toast in the CABERNET SAUVIGNON 93 (Red Mountain). As in 2009, the 2010 Bully tannins. —P.G. includes 10% Petit Verdot, and was aged in 100% abv: 14.4% Price: $28 Betz Family 2010 Père de Famille Cabernet new French oak. Muscular tannins and hints of 97 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). As good as any caraway speak to the substantial addition of PV, and Barnard Griffin 2012 Syrah (Columbia Valley). Père de Famille to date, this brilliantly crafted wine the wine is at first chewy and closed. Give it aerat- 87 Streaks of citrus, berry and cracker are in- jumps from the glass immediately with a rainbow of ing and it shows plenty of depth, with dense rasp- tegrated with light berry flavors. This is a smooth, blue, purple and black fruits. The scents and flavors berry fruit, notes of white pepper and crushed rock, balanced, easy-drinking Syrah, with light hints of are dense and seamless, the tannins polished and and a lively streak of lemony acid. —P.G. tea leaves. —P.G. graceful, and the barrel aging puts the last dabs of abv: 14.8% Price: $50 abv: 13.9% Price: $17 paint on a winemaking masterpiece. Cellar Selec- tion. —P.G. Januik 2011 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Cabernet Novelty Hill 2011 Syrah (Columbia Valley). abv: 14.1% Price: $68 93 Sauvignon (Red Mountain). A tight, metallic 87 This falls a little to the thin side of Syrah, streak runs vertically through this Cabernet. Deep at least Syrah grown here in Washington where the Mark Ryan 2011 Lonely Heart Cabernet Sau- cassis fruit, juicy acids and the mineral/metal sig- grape thrives. Varietal flavors of herb, pepper and 96 vignon (Red Mountain). For full review see nature of the vineyard combine in a well-structured stem are in evidence, with an overall impression of page 3. Cellar Selection. wine with an extended finish.Cellar Selection. lightly ripened berry fruit, stiff tannins, and ample abv: 15.1% Price: $85 —P.G. acidity. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $45 abv: 14.4% Price: $23 Betz Family 2011 Père de Famille Cabernet 95 Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Intriguing Abeja 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia scents focus upon chamomile and Mediterranean 92 Valley). Abeja’s main production is cen- SANGIOVESE herbs, while the fruit flavors are wild and brambly. tered upon their three Cabernets, this one sourced Cherry candy and red licorice play broadly across from throughout the Columbia Valley. It plays out Leonetti Cellar 2011 Sangiovese (Walla Walla the palate, lingering through a beautifully balanced broadly across the palate, with flavors of strawberry 92 Valley). This Sangiovese was as usual co- and extended finish. —P.G. and raspberry fruit, aged in 60% new French oak. fermented with Syrah (13%), and sourced from a abv: 14.1% Price: $68 The pretty toast is further enhanced with a streak mix of estate vineyards. Smooth and supple, it’s a of minerality. Drink now–2019. —P.G. sweetly appealing wine, loaded with strawberry Abeja 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia abv: 14.3% Price: $45 preserves, but also detailed with impressive notes 94 Valley). Tasted pre-release, this is already of Italian herbs and a whiff of tomato paste. As be- extraordinary, especially for this challenging vin- Andrew Januik 2011 Stone Cairn Cabernet fits the variety, the underpinning of natural acid- tage. The fruit (from Heather Hill, Kiona and Sage- 92 Sauvignon (Red Mountain). This new of- ity lifts the finish beautifully, and suggests aging it moor) is dense, dark and detailed—an immaculate fering is beautifully knit together, framing the ripe through 2020. —P.G. and thrilling wine, loaded with cassis, smoke and raspberry fruit with barrel spices, herbs and a abv: 14.1% Price: $65 chocolate. The concentration, balance and length streak of coffee grounds. Immediately appealing, it put it among the best Washington Cabernets of the nonetheless has the weight and structure to be cel- Genoa Cellars 2010 Doebler Vineyard San- vintage. Cellar Selection. —P.G. lared until 2020–2022. —P.G. 91 giovese (Wahluke Slope). This rare, single abv: 14.5% Price: $45 abv: 14.2% Price: $40 vineyard offering of Sangiovese brings notes of sour cherry, cranberry, dried plum and a kiss of vanilla. Mark Ryan 2011 Dead Horse Cabernet Sau- Barnard Griffin 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sau- It’s spot-on with excellent concentration and depth 94 vignon (Red Mountain). For full review see 92 vignon (Columbia Valley). Drinking quite to the fruit flavors, vibrant acidity and a tart, linger- page 4. Cellar Selection. nicely at the moment, this is a generous, dense wine ing finish. —S.S. abv: 15.1% Price: $52 with a full complement of dark fruits, cacao, smoke abv: 14.2% Price: $29 and hints of black tea. From the opening aromatics Tranche 2009 Estate Grown Cabernet Sau- on through a seamless weave of fruit and barrel fla- Tranche 2010 Estate Grown Sangiovese (Wal- 94 vignon (Walla Walla Valley). Dense with fla- vors, this is irresistibly delicious. —P.G. 91 la Walla Valley). Impressive in its size and vors of blueberry and cassis, it’s been soaked in deli- abv: 14.6% Price: $40 weight, this wine has tart fruit flavors of pomegran- cious French oak barrels (60% new) for 30 months, ate and blueberry, with a dusting of coffee grounds. and then given further bottle age before being re- Boudreaux Cellars 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Tannins are ripe, firm and sleek, and the structure leased. Coconut and vanilla highlights are threaded 92 (Washington). More than 90% Cabernet impactful. This needs even more bottle age or some through long, fine, dense, ripe tannins. This strong, Sauvignon, this is a blend of grapes from 10 differ- hours of aeration. —P.G. stylish wine can be cellared until 2024–2029. Cel- ent vineyards. The wild interplay of such diverse abv: 14.7% Price: $30 lar Selection. —P.G. sources works; the wine is maturing nicely, with a abv: NA Price: $40 rough and tumble mix of pastry fruits, brown sugar, Novelty Hill 2011 Stillwater Creek Vineyard mocha, espresso and dried leaves. It’s remarkably 88 Sangiovese (Columbia Valley). The 10% Abeja 2010 Heather Hill Cabernet Sauvignon flavorful, distinctive and ready to drink now. —P.G. Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend adds extra muscle 93 (Walla Walla Valley). This estate-grown, abv: 13.8% Price: $55 to this toasty, sleek wine. It’s light but polished, single-vineyard, 100% varietal bottling is smooth, with pretty scents and flavors of rose water and rich and forward. Scents of baking spices, caramel Leonetti Cellar 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon raspberries. The generous acidity of the grape keeps and toast introduce a full and lengthy palate loaded 92 (Walla Walla Valley). Though labeled Caber- it lively and fresh. —P.G. with black cherry and cassis fruit. A steely firmness net, it’s a full-on, four-grape Bordeaux-style blend. abv: 14.4% Price: $28 to the wine anticipates further development in the It sports a classic Cabernet nose, dusty, smoky, with bottle. Cellar Selection. —P.G. cherry tobacco, forest floor and a whiff of barnyard. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 The fruit remains tart and showing a fair amount of acidity; the tannins stiff and the mouthfeel tight

64 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 but sensual. Give this one until 2017 to pull itself Boudreaux Cellars 2008 Champoux & Loess nic wines, with superior aging potential. Here the together. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 90 Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon earthy, peppery red fruits are buttressed with vivid abv: 14.2% Price: $90 (Washington). This reserve Cabernet is moving acids and somewhat chewy tannins. The wine was quickly toward full maturity, with a rich blend of aged two years in 40% new French oak. —P.G. Novelty Hill 2011 Stillwater Creek Vineyard cassis, figs and prunes, layered with streaks of stem abv: 14.5% Price: $55 92 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). and earth flavors. The tannins are beginning to dry Complex and precise, this lovely Cabernet—blended out; it’s a wine to drink up while it’s at its peak. Frenchman’s Gulch 2009 Cabernet Sauvi- with 10% Merlot and 3% Malbec—layers cassis, —P.G. 86 gnon (Washington). Shows a bit more age herb, bark, earth and graphite elements within a abv: 13.9% Price: $100 than its vintage might indicate with notes of dried cigar box coating. Those streaks of tobacco are wed- cranberries and cherries accented by cinnamon and ded to a touch of espresso as it weaves through a Januik 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia vanilla. The light fruit flavors are a mixture of sweet lingering finish.Cellar Selection. —P.G. 90 Valley). Principally Cabernet Sauvignon, and tart with dry, chalky tannins. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $30 this blends in small amounts of Merlot, Cabernet abv: 13.8% Price: $32 Franc and Malbec. Broad fruit flavors range from Seven Hills 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvi- strawberry into red plum, with some stemmy earth Wild Meadows 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon 92 gnon (Walla Walla Valley). Just the ninth leading into stiff tannins. The astringent, earthy 86 (Columbia Valley). A straightforward wine reserve made in the winery’s 23 vintages, this is character is well-managed and balanced against the with notes of plum, currant and herbs. The flavors densely aromatic, powerful Cabernet, just at the pretty fruit. —P.G. are lighter in style supported by firm tannins. —S.S. beginning of what should be a long life. It’s tight abv: 14.4% Price: $30 abv: 13.5% Price: $12 and astringent, textural and balanced, with a cassis core, and a gravelly, grainy, espresso-flavored finish, Novelty Hill 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- Original House Wine 2012 Steak House Cab- still quite tannic. Cellar Selection. —P.G. 90 lumbia Valley). Tight and quite dry, this 85 ernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). It brings abv: 14.4% Price: $75 mixes dried herbs with wild blackberry and boysen- a Northwest Cabernet profile of black currant, plum, berry fruit flavors. The ample acidity underscores licorice and light herbs with medium-bodied feel. A DeLille Cellars 2011 Four Flags Cabernet Sauvi- just-ripe-enough tannins; but overall what most touch of sweetness rounds out the finish. —S.S. 91 gnon (Red Mountain). This recent addition to impresses is the wine’s balance, tension and length. abv: 12.34% Price: $11 the lineup at DeLille blends Cabernet from Klipsun, —P.G. Ciel du Cheval, Grand Ciel and Upchurch vineyards. abv: 14.4% Price: $26 Red Theory 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Co- It’s a fine effort, structured like the scaffolding on a 84 lumbia Valley). An easy-drinking quaffer high-rise building, narrow and vertical, with a spine Forgeron 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- with notes of olive, green herbs, vanilla and cherry of steel and a core of cassis. Firm acidity completes 89 bia Valley). This remains quite tight, almost with light flavors and a compact ball of tannins at the picture. Cellar Selection. —P.G. shuttered, with boysenberry fruit and sharp acidity. the center. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $65 Hints of composted earth and somewhat tarry tan- abv: 11.8% Price: $12 nins may be attributed to the addition of 8% Mal- Januik 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Moun- bec in the blend. —P.G. Acre Twenty-one 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon 91 tain). This Red Mountain cuvée falls nicely abv: 14.4% Price: $35 83 (Columbia Valley). This Cabernet doesn’t between the winery’s Columbia Valley and single- seem to have fully ripened with notes of jalapeño vineyard offerings. Raspberry and cassis fruit, young Barnard Griffin 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon pepper, green herbs and cherry with a light styling and compact, is underscored with chalky minerality 88 (Columbia Valley). Here is a supple, firm, and gritty tannins. —S.S. and suggestions of dried herbs. The tannins are ripe well-balanced Cabernet, with both Merlot and Syr- abv: 13% Price: $15 and astringent. This is a spot-on steak wine. —P.G. ah in supporting roles. Berry and plum flavors, crisp abv: 14.4% Price: $40 tannins, and a whiff of red pepper all come into play. Jones of Washington 2011 Estate Vineyards —P.G. 83 Cabernet Sauvignon (Wahluke Slope). Light- Seven Hills 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Colum- abv: 13.6% Price: $17 er in color, it has notes of cherry, plum and braised 91 bia Valley). The Cabernet is stiffened up with bell peppers. The fruit flavors are elegant in style small amounts of Petit Verdot, Cab Franc and Mal- Covington Cellars 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon with chunky tannins and citrusy acidity. —S.S. bec, resulting in a firm, herbal, but very well-bal- 87 (Walla Walla Valley). Sourced from Les Col- abv: 14.2% Price: $15 anced Bordeaux-style blend. There’s compact cas- lines and Pepper Bridge, this is very ripe, high in sis fruit, streaked with light stem, earth and herb. alcohol, and quite tannic. Blocky black cherry fruit Radius 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Washing- This is a wine that should improve with bottle age is covered with charred wood flavors, after spending 82 ton). An off-dry red with light flavors of through 2019. —P.G. 22 months in 70% new oak. Drink soon. —P.G. plum, pencil lead and leafy herbs offset by firm tan- abv: 14.2% Price: $30 abv: 14.9% Price: $36 nins. —S.S. abv: 12.9% Price: $10 Tamarack Cellars 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Covington Cellars 2010 Klipsun Vineyard 91 (Columbia Valley). An assortment of vine- 87 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). It’s Washington Hills 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon yards contributes to this tight and chewy Caber- quite tannic, as is to be expected from this found- 82 (Washington). This wine doesn’t seem to net, blended with small percentages of Merlot and ing Red Mountain vineyard, and yet the wine seems have truly ripened with aromas of bell pepper and Cab Franc. The crunchy black fruits and underlying smoothed over, buffed out. The black cherry and herbs that lean far into the green along with confec- minerality contribute to the impression of well- cassis fruit does not penetrate. Drink up. —P.G. tioned blue fruit and blocky tannins. —S.S. structured compactness, with plenty of potential abv: 14.9% Price: $60 abv: 11.83% Price: $10 for aging through 2022–2024. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Lachini 2011 La Bestia Cabernet Sauvignon abv: 14.5% Price: $36 87 (Red Mountain). In the blend are smaller percentages of Cab Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. The Red Mountain AVA is noted for thick, tan-

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Januik 2011 Klipsun Vineyard Merlot (Red The wine seems to thin out a bit through the fin- MALBEC 93 Mountain). Iron and steel, rock and earth ish. —P.G. are the first things you notice about this mineral- abv: 14.3% Price: $28 Boudreaux Cellars 2009 Malbec (Colum- inflected, single-vineyard Merlot. It’s an ode to tan- 90 bia Valley). This is pure Malbec from the nin and terroir, a tough, tight and dense wine with Kirkland Signature 2012 Merlot (Columbia Gamache vineyard. The lush, concentrated fruit is primary fruit flavors of cranberry and cassis.Cellar 87 Valley). For full review see page 14. Best Buy. a generous bowl-full of berries, lightly dusted with Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $9 peppery herbs. The midpalate is concentrated and abv: 14.4% Price: $30 shows pretty floral and pipe tobacco highlights, Waterbrook 2011 Merlot (Columbia Valley). while the tannins have a chewy, rustic edge. —P.G. Forgeron 2011 Boushey Vineyard Merlot (Co- 86 Though the wine saw just less than 25% of abv: 13.5% Price: $60 92 lumbia Valley). Merlot has long been a par- new American and Hungarian oak, the vanilla and ticular strength at Forgeron. Up front in this new baking spices stand out at present along with tart Seven Hills 2012 Malbec (Walla Walla Val- release is a thick vein of chocolate around rich black cherries, cough syrup and dried herbs. It’s tart and 90 ley). Pure Malbec, sourced from the Mc- cherry fruit. The wine dips a bit in midpalate, then somewhat lean in style with a firm handshake of Clellan estate and Minnick Hills vineyards, this is re-emerges in a finish with chewy tannins and cit- tannins. —S.S. a tight and well-crafted mix of flavors—fig, black- rusy acidity. The odds strongly favor more improve- abv: 13.4% Price: $14 berry, blueberry jam, a whiff of dried herb and white ment with further bottle age; try after 2016.Cellar pepper, and tannins grounded in clean earth. The Selection. —P.G. Bridgman 2012 Merlot (Columbia Valley). aging, principally Hungarian oak, brings in coffee abv: 14.5% Price: $30 84 Though not immediately identifiable as highlights. —P.G. Merlot, it’s an aromatically pleasing wine with abv: 14.4% Price: $30 Novelty Hill 2011 Stillwater Creek Vineyard notes of cocoa, pencil lead and herbs. Medium bod- 91 Merlot (Columbia Valley). This is a carefully ied, it drinks just off dry, with slightly bitter tan- Novelty Hill 2011 Stillwater Creek Vineyard made, almost calculated wine that showcases con- nins. —S.S. 89 Malbec (Columbia Valley). Bright acidity trolled herbaceousness around tight, crisp black abv: 13.5% Price: $14 accompanies tight, wild berry fruits. As with many fruits. The mix evokes earth, herb, barrel and grape. Malbecs, the fruit is balanced against clean earth —P.G. Canoe Ridge 2012 The Expedition Canoe and stem, with a touch of tomato leaf in the aromas. abv: 14.4% Price: $23 84 Ridge Estate Vineyard Merlot (Horse Heaven —P.G. Hills). Though Syrah makes up only 14% of this abv: 14.4% Price: $28 Seven Hills 2012 Merlot (Columbia Valley). wine, it seems to take over the show with its notes 91 Smooth and palate-coating, it’s 100% vari- of plum and smoke playing against barrel accents Waterbrook 2012 Malbec (Columbia Valley). etal, with just the right balance between blackberry of pencil lead and vanilla. It drinks off dry (9.5g/L 86 It’s unusual to see a Washington Malbec at and black cherry fruit, and barrel-induced flavors residual sugar), with dry grainy tannins. —S.S. this price. This one is generally pleasant, with notes of toffee, toasted macadamia nuts, and café crème. abv: 13.9% Price: $16 of plum, peppery spices and light oak accents. It’s Editors’ Choice. —P.G. soft and elegant, yet with some tannic astringency abv: 14.5% Price: $28 that adds a subtle edge. —S.S. BORDEAUX-STYLE RED BLENDS abv: 13.8% Price: $14 Novelty Hill 2011 Merlot (Columbia Val- 90 ley). Plum and especially blueberry fruit Cadence 2010 Cara Mia Vineyard Bel Canto Latah Creek 2011 Malbec (Wahluke Slope). A compels your interest immediately. It’s cloaked in 95 Red (Red Mountain). The best Cara Mia 85 forward wine with notes of dark berries and precisely focused tannins that frame an extended, yet, this is Red Mountain Cabernet Franc from the barrel spices. The fruit is lighter in style with the lightly chocolaty finish. —P.G. estate vineyard, with 15% Merlot and 8% Petit oak taking over the show. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price: $23 Verdot included. Stylish and compact, this seems abv: 12.5% Price: $16 sculpted with pure, vivid purple fruits, balanced Barnard Griffin 2011 Merlot (Columbia Val- against crisp, fine-grained tannins. The depth and 89 ley). Aromatic and fruity, this is front-load- concentration are noteworthy. Cellar Selection. MERLOT ed with pretty accents of toast and baking spices. —P.G. There’s 10% Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend, but abv: 14.4% Price: $60 JM Cellars 2011 Klipsun Vineyard Merlot (Red it’s Merlot’s show, with forward, smooth, chocolaty 95 Mountain). For full review see page 3. Cellar goodness around a core of raspberry candy. Editors’ Januik 2011 Reserve Red (Columbia Valley). Selection. Choice. —P.G. 95 Januik’s reserve blend is 84% Cabernet abv: 14.2% Price: $42 abv: 13.4% Price: $17 Sauvignon, 14% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. It’s built like the Fortress of Solitude—at first im- Leonetti Cellar 2012 Merlot (Walla Walla Januik 2011 Merlot (Columbia Valley). Rock penetrable, then slowly revealing layer upon layer 94 Valley). For full review see page 4. Editors’ 89 solid, this substantial Merlot is grounded in of deep, dark black fruits. A base of iron and stone Choice. earth flavors, laced with butter cookie, and finished adds further gravitas. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 with tart tannins. The fruit is tight and tangy. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $65 abv: 14.4% Price: $25 Abeja 2011 Merlot (Columbia Valley). Pure Figgins 2011 Estate Red Wine (Walla Walla 93 Merlot sourced from several Columbia Val- Tamarack Cellars 2010 Merlot (Columbia 94 Valley). For full review see page 4. ley vineyards, this opens with inviting toasty scents, 89 Valley). This spicy, fruity blend sources abv: 14.1% Price: $85 quickly moving into a broad, flavorful palate loaded from seven different vineyards, and includes 5% with pretty cherry fruit. The balance between fruit portions of Cabernet Franc and Syrah. The acids Andrew Will 2011 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red and barrel is perfect, and the wine is ready for near- bring up hints of pink grapefruit and orange, while 93 Wine (Red Mountain). Half Merlot and half term enjoyment. —P.G. the cherry and plum fruit flavors hold the center. Cabernet Franc, this firm, minerally, tightly wound abv: 13.8% Price: $40 Bordeaux-style blend seems anchored in the latter

66 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 grape. Lovely whiffs of coffee grounds, wild berry mint—with tart red fruit flavors of pomegranate, vignon, 16% Cab Franc and 11% Malbec. Given extra and currant, stiff acids and sculpted tannins work raspberry, and bramble. The blend is 43% Merlot, bottle age prior to release, it’s drinking quite nicely, together to craft a complex red.Cellar Selection. 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Cabernet Franc and with plum and black cherry fruit, a rich layer of —P.G. 2% Malbec. —P.G. mocha, and a firm finish with polished tannins and abv: 14.5% Price: $55 abv: 14.5% Price: $55 lemony acids. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $35 Barnard Griffin 2008 Sagemoor Vineyards Avennia 2011 Gravura Red (Columbia Valley). 93 Partners Reserve (Columbia Valley). Barnard 92 Good news for the growing legion of admir- Cadence 2011 Coda Red (Red Mountain). This Griffin’s über-reserve, this extremely limited offer- ers of this young winery—production of the Gravura 91 four-grape, Bordeaux-style blend offers firm, ing is a Bordeaux-style blend, produced from old has more than doubled in this vintage. It’s a classy, concentrated plum and cassis fruit, stiff tannins vines at one of Washington’s founding vineyards. sophisticated wine with a clear target—the style of and a touch of iron and graphite. It saw 45% new A spicy, peppered candy note in the nose precedes wine made in the Graves region of Bordeaux. Done French oak—pretty impressive for a $25 red. Edi- juicy pomegranate fruit, toasted walnuts, mocha with native ferment (no inoculation), the overall tors’ Choice. —P.G. and more. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. harmony of tart berry/cassis fruit, minerals, bright abv: 14.4% Price: $25 abv: 14.5% Price: $60 acidity and bourbon barrel highlights is exceptional. Cellar Selection. —P.G. Betz Family 2010 Clos de Betz (Columbia Betz Family 2011 Clos de Betz (Columbia Val- abv: 14.5% Price: $35 90 Valley). Betz Family’s Merlot-based blend 93 ley). A fine effort in this cool vintage, this offers sleek plum and cassis fruit, with a tart, sappy, Merlot-dominated Bordeaux-style blend is aromati- Brian Carter Cellars 2009 Solesce Red (Co- yet penetrating presence. Despite some years in cally arresting, with complex flower and herb scents 92 lumbia Valley). For full review see page 6. bottle, the acids seem to out-run the fruit, though suggesting appealing delicacy. It delivers that in a Cellar Selection. that may bode well for cellaring. —P.G. focused, wine with pretty berry and chocolate fla- abv: 14.3% Price: $50 abv: 14.2% Price: $55 vors. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $55 Cadence 2010 Ciel du Cheval Red (Red Moun- Brian Carter Cellars 2010 Trentenaire Red 92 tain). This Bordeaux-style blend showcases 90 (Yakima Valley). This unusual Bordeaux- Cadence 2010 Cara Mia Vineyard Camerata the intensity of the vineyard’s grapes, with aromat- style blend has a substantial amount (61%) of Petit 93 Red (Red Mountain). From the estate vine- ics suggesting bright berries and iron filings. It’s Verdot, yet that often-inky and tannic grape does yard, this is a blend of three-quarters Cabernet still a tight, compact wine, sharply acidic, and will not overwhelm the other four, and gives the wine a Sauvignon, with the rest evenly divided among Cab require further bottle age to really deliver on its po- powerful foundation. The palate broadens out with Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Lovely aromatics tential. Try after 2018.Cellar Selection. —P.G. generous black fruits, polished tannins, and lively introduce a sleek, tightly wound wine with crisply abv: 14.4% Price: $45 acidity, finishing with a bit of cedar and a whiff of defined berry fruit, good tannins, and hints of clean roasted meat. —P.G. earth. It was aged in 50% new French oak barrels. DeLille Cellars 2011 Chaleur Estate Red Wine abv: 14.2% Price: $40 —P.G. 92 (Red Mountain). Built upon generous, sweet abv: 14.4% Price: $60 and pretty cherry and cassis fruit, this drinks well Cadence 2010 Tapteil Red (Red Mountain). now, but could be cellared until 2020. Tannins are 90 Sourced from old vines at the Tapteil vine- Leonetti Cellar 2011 Reserve Red (Walla ripe and polished, and the natural acidity carries a yard, this somewhat austere, Cabernet-dominated 93 Walla Valley). Two-thirds Cabernet Sauvi- finishing lick of citrus. —P.G. blend offers a mix of tart raspberry, gun metal and gnon, 21% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 7% Pe- abv: 14% Price: $80 grippy tannins. —P.G. tit Verdot, this reserve is aromatically distinctive. abv: 14.4% Price: $45 A suggestion of grapefruit in the underlying acidity Tyrus Evan 2008 Ciel du Cheval Claret (Red outlines pretty boysenberry, mulberry and sweet 92 Mountain). This Bordeaux-style blend, us- JM Cellars 2011 Longevity (Columbia Valley). spices. It’s beautifully balanced. —P.G. ing the old-fashioned term Claret, may be a sly in- 90 Roughly half and half Merlot and Cabernet abv: 14.1% Price: $140 dication of its age, drinkability and overall balance. Sauvignon, the Longevity bottling brings spice and Scents of sandalwood, musk and black cherry greet tangy red fruits into focus. The forward, mouth- Mark Ryan 2011 Long Haul (Columbia Valley). you, with maturing flavors of ripe cherries and cigar filling flavors suggest strawberry preserves and pie 93 This could be labeled Merlot, which com- box. Supple and seamless, with impeccable balance, cherries. It’s drinking nicely; no need to wait. —P.G. prises three-quarters of the Bordeaux-style blend. it’s now drinking at its best. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $45 Big, bold, dark and intensely aromatic, it’s a bit abv: 14.5% Price: $37 tight and tannic at first, but opens gracefully into Andrew Will 2011 Two Blondes Vineyard Red well-layered, powerfully-structured flavors of vio- Avennia 2011 Sestina Red (Columbia Valley). 89 Wine (Yakima Valley). In a cool vintage this lets and smoke, cherries and chocolate. Highlights 91 Sestina celebrates old-vine Cabernet Sauvi- site brings out more herbal components, here verg- of ground coffee and graphite extend through the gnon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc from the Red Wil- ing on flavors of green bean. But it pulls itself to- finish. —P.G. low and Bacchus vineyards. The initial punch and gether with pretty berries, toasty oak, and a gentle abv: 14.9% Price: $48 power gives way to a wine with sharp acidity and streak of milk chocolate. The blend is 38% Merlot, somewhat constrained, leafy fruit flavors. For those 39% Cabernet Sauvignon and 23% Cabernet Franc. Seven Hills 2011 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red who crave old-vine complexity and embrace the —P.G. 93 Wine (Red Mountain). For full review see herbal side of Cabernet, this wine will be a revela- abv: 14.5% Price: $55 page 5. Cellar Selection. tion. Tight and focused, it responds well to several abv: 14.1% Price: $45 hours of decanting. —P.G. DeLille Cellars 2011 D2 Red Wine (Columbia abv: 14.5% Price: $55 89 Valley). A bit more than half Merlot, this Andrew Will 2010 Two Blondes Vineyard Red Bordeaux-style blend is balanced and complex. Lay- 92 Wine (Yakima Valley). Sophisticated and Brian Carter Cellars 2010 Le Coursier Red (Co- ers of flower, fruit and earth unfold gracefully. There complex, this terroir-specific wine artfully blends 91 lumbia Valley). Predominantly Merlot, this are suggestions of clean mushroom as well, with a herbal components—green tea, chamomile and Bordeaux-style blend includes 16% Cabernet Sau-

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smooth, seamless mouthfeel and modest length. of peppery berry fruit. Tart, smooth and accessible, Kyra 2011 Garnet (Wahluke Slope). Though —P.G. it’s backed with refreshing minerality and a dollop 87 it makes up only a fifth of the wine, Caber- abv: 14.1% Price: $42 of cocoa. —P.G. net Sauvignon seems to win out in this largely Bor- abv: 14.9% Price: $25 deaux-style blend with notes of mixed herbs, mint Barnard Griffin NV Cabernet Sauvignon- and green tea. Lighter in style, it offers a fresh feel, 87 Merlot (Columbia Valley). This nonvintage Brian Carter Cellars 2010 Byzance Red (Co- slightly chalky tannins, and little obvious new oak blend is lightly herbal, with hints at pickle barrel 90 lumbia Valley). For full review see page 9. influence. It adds up to a low-alcohol wine that goes and green olive under tart, lightly-ripened red fruit. abv: 14.2% Price: $34 down easy. —S.S. Tannins are stiff but proportionate, and it’s a good, abv: 13% Price: $15 every day steak wine. —P.G. Doyenne 2011 Métier Red (Red Mountain). abv: 13.2% Price: $14 90 This southern Rhone-style blend consists Telaya 2011 Turas Red Wine (Columbia Val- of 35% Mourvèdre, 40% Grenache and 25% Syrah. 87 ley). Half Syrah with the balance Cabernet Steely minerality underscores pretty cherry fruit, Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, it brings sweet OTHER RED BLENDS with a light and peppery streak of herb running barrel notes of vanilla and coconut along with dried through the tannins. —P.G. cherry and blueberry. The palate is light to medium Forgeron 2011 G-S-M (Columbia Valley). This abv: 14.2% Price: $44 bodied with an interplay of chocolate and cherry 93 is a first for Forgeron, blending Boushey flavors that keeps things interesting even as the Syrah with Grenache and Mourvèdre. The Grenache JM Cellars 2011 Tre (Columbia Valley). Tre concentration dips. —S.S. opens up the fruit, and aging in a mix of French and 90 blends Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and abv: 13.8% Price: $30 American oak adds dark chocolate, espresso, vanilla Syrah from three vineyards in three different AVAs. and spice. It’s a tight, dense wine that benefits from Tasted just after being released, it showed good bal- Frenchman’s Gulch 2008 Ketchum Cuvée decanting, and can age through 2020–2024. Cellar ance and flavors of cherries and spice, with some 85 Red Table Wine (Washington). A blend of Selection. —P.G. herbal threads running through the tannins. —P.G. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, abv: 14.3% Price: $30 abv: 14.5% Price: $45 it’s starting to show its age with notes of dried cran- berries and anise along with cinnamon. The flavors Tranche 2009 Slice of Pape Red (Walla Walla Tamarack Cellars 2012 Firehouse Red (Co- are lighter in style showing an unusual sweet-tart 93 Valley). Held back for almost five years, this 90 lumbia Valley). Tamarack’s Firehouse mixture. —S.S. GSM (plus a dash of Cinsault) is thoroughly deli- Red incorporates 12 different grapes in the blend, abv: 14.5% Price: $18 cious and drinking beautifully. It’s toasty and dark, though most are in tiny percentages. Nonetheless packed with black cherry and cassis fruit, along the wine is focused and deep, with luscious boysen- Acre Twenty-one 2012 Red (Columbia Val- with strong streaks of wood smoke, graphite, black berry, licorice and dark chocolate flavors wrapping 84 ley). A lightly aromatic wine, it leans to- olive and mineral. Cellar until 2024 at least. Cellar together in a complex and textural whole. Editors’ ward the savory with notes of herbs, green tea and Selection. —P.G. Choice. —P.G. plum. The concentration seems wanting and astrin- abv: NA Price: $35 abv: 13.9% Price: $18 gent tannins distract. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $15 Mark Ryan 2011 The Dissident (Columbia Val- Covington Cellars 2010 Olsen Vineyard Ma 92 ley). Aromatic with streaks of truffle, cigar 89 Belle Red (Yakima Valley). This southern Red Theory 2012 Winemaker’s Red (Colum- and black cherry, this lively six-grape blend is prin- Rhône-style blend is 70% Grenache, 20% Cinsault 84 bia Valley). A straightforward wine with cipally Red Mountain fruit, along with some from and 10% Syrah, sourced from the excellent Olsen light notes of red and blue berries along with oak Red Willow. Substantial and mouth-filling wine, it’s vineyard. That perfect fruit anchors a ripe, juicy and accents. —S.S. nuanced with rich flavors of cassis, tar, graphite and forward wine loaded with cherry/berry flavors. The abv: 12.4% Price: $12 chalk. It spent 18 months in barrel, 73% new. Edi- Cinsault brings in light herb, and the wine rolls into tors’ Choice. —P.G. a mocha-dipped finish with a bit of heat. —P.G. Wild Meadows 2011 Red Beauty (Columbia abv: 14.6% Price: $32 abv: 15% Price: $45 84 Valley). A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Franc, it features notes Board Track Racer 2012 The Chief Red (Colum- Doyenne 2011 Aix Red (Yakima Valley). This of smoke, mint, dried herbs and cherry. It’s lighter 91 bia Valley). This is a fluid, fruit-laden, well- 89 Syrah/Cabernet Sauvignon blend displays in style with some sweetness on the finish. —S.S. balanced blend. Spicy and herbal purple fruits are attractive scents and flavors of ripe blackberries. abv: 13.5% Price: $12 highlighted with cayenne pepper, chocolate and a The tannins are etched by a rim of dark chocolate, pleasing hint of violets. —P.G. and finished with a whiff of smoke. —P.G. Radius 2012 Red (Washington). In a kitch- abv: 14.6% Price: $25 abv: 14.2% Price: $38 83 en sink blend that is just over half Merlot, it’s the Syrah that pops with its notes of black and Gorman 2011 Zachary’s Ladder (Red Moun- Board Track Racer 2012 The Vincent Red green olive accented by orange peel. With 20g/L 91 tain). Always a fine value in the Gorman 88 (Columbia Valley). Firm and dotted heavily residual sugar, it coats the palate end to end with lineup, this new Zachary’s Ladder is the best yet. with olive and herb, it’s streaked with chocolate and overtly sweet fruit flavors. —S.S. It’s half Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Syrah, and 10% graphite—a medium-long blend with a core of cassis abv: 13.5% Price: $10 Petit Verdot, yielding a plush, mouthfilling wine fruit. Just a hint of plastic marks the finish. —P.G. that remains light on its feet. Credit the lively acid- abv: 14.3% Price: $20 ity that elevates mixed red berry fruits and finishes OTHER RED WINES with a kiss of milk chocolate. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. Boudreaux Cellars 2009 JBO’s Frangiovese abv: 14.8% Price: $30 88 (Washington). Half Sangiovese and half Maison Bleue 2011 Boushey Vineyard Le Cabernet Franc, this is sourced from the Dutchman 95 Midi Grenache (Yakima Valley). This was Board Track Racer 2012 Suicide Shift Red vineyard. It’s quite ripe, soft and leafy, with flavors fermented with 50% whole clusters, which slows 90 (Columbia Valley). This Syrah/Mourvèdre of tart cherry, and substantial tannins. —P.G. down and evens up the process. Along with rich blend is a forward, bright and seamless expression abv: 13.5% Price: $60 flavors of black raspberry fruit, it’s dense with sa-

68 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 vory herbs and marvelous details of earth and for- What’s left is a quickly maturing wine with blue- Naked Mountain 2011 Barrel Fermented est floor. Delicious now, but just wait until 2020– berry pie, clove and baking spices. Drink up. —P.G. 84 Chardonnay (Virginia). Muted, broad or- 2022! Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 chard fruit and lemon flavors are etched with ac- abv: 14.5% Price: $45 ids that become more lifted on the finish. An easy- Clearwater Canyon 2011 Carmenère (Wash- drinking wine to pair with mild white fish, like Mark Ryan 2011 Crazy Mary Mourvèdre (Red 85 ington). There’s no mistaking the variety tilapia. —A.H. 91 Mountain). With just 8% Syrah in the blend, here with its notes of braised jalapeño pepper and abv: 13.7% Price: $20 this is a fine example of the distinctive flavors found green herbs. It’s full bodied with a soft, textured in the best Washington state Mourvèdre. The vines feel to the fruit flavors that lean far into the green. Tarara 2012 Almost Unoaked Chardonnay are still young, the raspberry/blackberry fruit fla- —S.S. 84 (Virginia). Broad notes of white orchard vors bright, focused and forward, but the penetrat- abv: 14% Price: $28 fruit lead onto the light- to medium-bodied palate, ing minerality of the grape and the region is also in which feels easygoing and pliable. —A.H. evidence. The Syrah brings a hint of pepper into abv: 12.5% Price: $20 play in the finish. —P.G. VIRGINIA abv: 15.1% Price: $48 North Gate 2012 Chardonnay (Virginia). CHARDONNAY 82 Muddled white-orchard fruit aromas carry Seven Hills 2011 Petit Verdot (Walla Walla onto the soft palate, which carries a trace of sweet- 91 Valley). The distinctive varietal character Cooper Vineyards 2012 Chardonnay (Vir- ness. —A.H. of Petit Verdot, a grape that is most often used in 86 ginia). High-toned aromas of beeswax and abv: 12.2% Price: $18 very small amounts for blending, is nicely displayed ginger carry onto the medium-full, lissome palate, here. Whiffs of violets and tanned leather are fol- which picks up notes of glazed pear and flower. lowed with a quite dry, astringent wine, anchored —A.H. SAUVIGNON BLANC in blueberry fruit and flavors of espresso grounds, abv: 13% Price: $16 clove and dried herbs. —P.G. Breaux 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Virginia). abv: 14.3% Price: $35 The Williamsburg Winery 2011 John Adlum 88 Precise yellow grapefruit, currant bud and 86 Limited Chardonnay (Virginia). White cur- apricot notes lead onto the medium-bodied, zesty Tranche 2010 Estate Grown Tempranillo rant and orchard fruit tones lead onto the silky, palate. The grapefruit note remains dominant on 90 (Columbia Valley). Tranche is exploring open-textured palate. It finishes with a welcome the palate, and the lively acids give it a vibrant edge. lesser-known (for Walla Walla) grapes such as this minerally tang. —A.H. —A.H. Tempranillo, producing wines with structure and abv: 13% Price: $12 abv: 13.6% Price: $19 depth. Blueberry fruit and a big wash of roasted cof- fee ground flavors are here, with dry, firm tannins. Bluestone 2011 Estate Grown Chardonnay Stinson 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Virginia). The length is impressive. —P.G. 85 (Shenandoah Valley). Diminished white- 87 Attractive, precise notes of grapefruit and abv: 14.7% Price: $30 apricot and apple-like aromas lead to a yielding, white apricot lead onto the medium-bodied palate, medium-weight palate, which comes with a sense of which is invigorated by brisk acids. The wine fin- Forgeron 2011 Zinfandel (Columbia Valley). flesh and a hint of pastry shell. —A.H. ishes with energy and zesty snap. —A.H. 89 The Zinfandel is sourced from Alder Ridge; abv: 12.9% Price: $18 abv: 13% Price: $22 the 22% Primitivo component from Stonetree. Fresh and lightly spicy, it features bright berry fruit Breaux 2012 Madeleine’s Chardonnay (Vir- Veritas 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Monticello). with good focus and medium depth. Despite the 85 ginia). D’Anjou pear and wax are the lead 87 Scents of caramelized grapefruit zest and relatively high alcohol, it seems sleek and moder- aromas, with light flower tones in the backdrop. tropical fruit take the fore. Lively acids frame the ate. —P.G. Medium in body, this offers a sense of expansive- silky, medium-bodied palate. —A.H. abv: 14.7% Price: $30 ness, bright acids and a lightly nutty finish. —A.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $22 abv: 14.4% Price: $22 Tranche 2010 Barbera (Columbia Valley). 8 Chains North 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Vir- 88 Though it’s been held back since being bot- Cedar Creek 2011 Estate Bottled Chardon- 86 ginia). An aroma of tropical fruit leads onto tled, this remains tight and closed. Suggestions of 85 nay (Shenandoah Valley). Taciturn aromas the pliant, medium-bodied frame. Bright acids lend strawberry and chocolate come up from a firm and of apricot, papaya seed and pie crust hit the nose the palate lift. —A.H. compact body, with plenty of acidity and hints of first, leading to a medium-bodied palate that has abv: 12.5% Price: $20 green olive and coffee grounds. Aerate, decant, and/ a wide-open texture. Zesty acidity lends the finish or cellar this wine. —P.G. some spark. —A.H. Pippin Hill Farm 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Mon- abv: NA Price: $25 abv: 12.9% Price: $17 85 ticello). Buttery and nutty notes are the lead aromas. The palate offers a succulent white-apricot Barnard Griffin 2008 Hells Gate Canyon Vine- Trump 2012 Chardonnay (Monticello). The note, and the acids become charged toward the fin- 87 yard Zinfandel (Columbia Valley). Single 85 aromas of Gala apple and hazelnut seem ish. —A.H. vineyard Zinfandel from a young vineyard on the a bit wooly, but they gain in concentration on the abv: 12.2% Price: $24 Columbia River, this is pretty rather than powerful, medium-bodied palate. Energetic acids drive the smooth and chocolaty, with bright, tight raspberry hazelnut-tinged finish. —A.H. fruit. —P.G. abv: 12% Price: $16 VIDAL BLANC abv: 14% Price: $25 Château Morrisette 2011 Chardonnay (Vir- Château Morrisette 2011 Vidal Blanc (Virgin- Covington Cellars 2010 Cabernet Franc (Co- 84 ginia). Toasted popcorn kernel is the chief 86 ia). Primary aromas include peach blossom, 87 lumbia Valley). After 22 months in half new note. Medium in body, it bears simple pomaceous lanolin and Gala apple dusted with confectioners’ French oak, this blend of fruit from four widely flavors and even-keeled acids. —A.H. separate vineyards inevitably kills the specificity. abv: 13% Price: $18

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sugar. Crunchy acidity gives this medium-bodied Pearmund 2012 Vineyard Kilaurwen Ries- sweet and sour, with confected raspberry and wa- wine plenty of cut and a tart finish.Best Buy. —A.H. 84 ling (Virginia). Fruit-juice-like aromas of termelon flavors that linger on the palate. —A.H. abv: 12% Price: $11 quince, pear and apricot lead onto the weighty pal- abv: 13.9% Price: $21 ate. It tastes slightly off dry and succulent, and it Molliver Vineyards NV Vidal Blanc (Virginia). deals bold flavors and juicy acids. —A.H. 86 Oxidative in style, this Vidal Blanc boasts abv: 12.5% Price: $19 CABERNET FRANC aromas of cidery apple, toasted nut and brioche dough. Medium to full in body, this offers concen- Sans Soucy 2012 Viognier (Virginia). Me- Cedar Creek 2011 Estate Bottled Cabernet trated flavors and tart acids. Try pairing it with a 84 dium in body, this supple wine picks up 89 Franc (Shenandoah Valley). Scents of cher- wedge of goat cheese to tame its raciness. Best Buy. sprightly, lime-like acidity as it works its way across ry and plum are infused with notes of undergrowth, —A.H. the palate. Tropical flavors add interest and contin- currant bud and pastry spice. The medium- to full- abv: 13.3% Price: $11 ue onto the long, tangy finish. —A.H. bodied palate bears firm, sinewy tannins and vivid abv: 12.6% Price: $21 acids. —A.H. Barren Ridge 2011 Vidal Blanc (Shenandoah abv: 13% Price: $19 84 Valley). Notes of toasted macadamia nut Naked Mountain 2012 Chardonnay-Riesling and cheese rind accent the primary aroma of mixed 83 (Virginia). Broad melon-like and apple-like Old House 2010 de Maison Cabernet Franc orchard fruit. The palate is succulent and zesty, of- aromas lead onto the medium-size palate. Soft acids 88 (Virginia). A Cabernet Franc with Pinot fering a simple pomaceous flavor. —A.H. give a malleable texture. —A.H. Noir-like charm, this bears an aromatic admixture abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.7% Price: $22 of macerated cherries, strawberry preserves, mush- room caps and leather. Light to medium bodied, Lost Creek 2012 Vidal Blanc (Virginia). An Naked Mountain 2012 Viognier (Virginia). this has graceful, dusty tannins and acids that have 82 admixture of peach and white apricot notes 82 Waxy, nondescript white-fruit aromas lead some spark. —A.H. lead to the weighty palate, which comes with sour to a palate that offers wooly flavors and fresh acid- abv: 13% Price: $18 acids that make the wine feel edgy. —A.H. ity. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 12.7% Price: $22 Cedar Creek 2010 Estate Bottled Cabernet 87 Franc (Shenandoah Valley). The deep color of this wine prefigures its dark aromas, which are SEYVAL BLANC ROSÉS redolent of black mission fig cake, chocolate and cigar box. The medium-full palate feels expansive, Bogati 2011 Seyval Blanc (Virginia). A scent Trump 2012 Rosé (Monticello). The aromas and it’s structured with fine, mouth-coating tannins 84 of lanolin hits the nose first, followed by a 86 of this rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot that carry onto the textured finish. —A.H. touch of toasted nut. This has a medium-bodied, and Cabernet Franc are direct and reminiscent of abv: 14.5% Price: $19 supple core, plus tart acidity that frames the flavor red currant jam on toast. Medium bodied and broad of dried white peach. —A.H. in feel, this has acids that offer plenty of cut, plus a Fabbioli Cellars 2011 Cabernet Franc (Virgin- abv: 12.8% Price: $19 touch of grapefruit zest that adds interest. —A.H. 87 ia). The primary aromas of ripe strawberry abv: 12.5% Price: $14 and raspberry preserves are of mild intensity, and Veramar 2012 Seyval Blanc (Virginia). Aro- a touch of faded vanilla adds dimension. Succulent 84 mas of pie crust and toast take the lead, fol- Boxwood 2012 Rosé (Virginia). Delicate in acids and dusty tannins lend the medium-bodied lowed by touches of white currant, pear and apple. 85 scent, this bears light notes of peach blos- palate support. —A.H. The palate tastes a touch sweet and feels succulent. som, wax and macerated strawberry. With its me- abv: 12.5% Price: $22 —A.H. dium body and tonic acidity, this rosé of Merlot, abv: 12.7% Price: $20 Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec Lovingston 2012 Josie’s Knoll Cabernet Franc would make for a wonderful apéritif. —A.H. 87 (Monticello). Scents of raspberries, flow- Valerie Hill 2011 Seyval Blanc (Shenandoah abv: 13% Price: $14 ers and exotic spices take the lead. The palate feels 81 Valley). This is a simple, nondescript wine broad and untethered, featuring glossy tannins, bal- with a broad feel, zesty acids and wooly flavors. Château Morrisette 2011 Dry Chambourcin anced acids and a pliable finish. —A.H. —A.H. 84 Rosé (Virginia). Light notes of red cherry abv: 12.5% Price: $23 abv: 13.5% Price: $23 lozenge and strawberry mark the medium-bodied palate, which is structured with tense, snappy acid- Veramar 2012 Cabernet Franc (Shenandoah ity. —A.H. 87 Valley). The aromas of smoked pepper and OTHER WHITE WINES abv: 12% Price: $18 grilled baguette are more reminiscent of a Syrah from the Northern Rhône than of a Cabernet Franc Shenandoah 2011 Blanc (Shenandoah Val- Stinson 2012 Rosé (Monticello). A rosé of from Virginia, but they are enticing and delineated 86 ley). A pliant, medium- to full-bodied wine, 84 100% Mourvèdre, this bears mild flavors nonetheless. Medium in body, the palate feels lithe, this deals ripe stone fruit and golden raisin flavors, of red cherry, candied strawberry and tropical fruit, with integrated dusty tannins and bright acids. plus toasty, oxidative tones. —A.H. which are enlivened by fresh acidity. It’s a simple —A.H. abv: 12% Price: $14 rosé that would be an enjoyable accompaniment to abv: 12.7% Price: $25 a picnic lunch. —A.H. Shenandoah 2012 Johannisberg Riesling abv: 13% Price: $17 Château Morrisette 2011 Cabernet Franc 85 (Shenandoah Valley). Scents of white flow- 86 (Virginia). Core aromas of cherry and ers and tropical fruits lead onto the concentrated Veramar NV Syrah Rosé (Virginia). A balsam- strawberry come with light details of red flower and palate; and the fresh, tangy acids keep the mouth- 82 ic note hits the nose first, with touches of coconut. Medium in body, the wine offers vivid ac- feel perky. —A.H. wax and papaya seed in the background. It tastes ids and fine wispy tannins. —A.H. abv: 11% Price: $19 abv: 12.5% Price: $18

70 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 Fox Meadow 2010 Cabernet Franc (Virginia). bodied wine, which feels supple on attack and be- tle tannins and lax acids. It finishes with traces of 86 For full review see page 11. comes firm on the finish. —A.H. vanilla and dried herbs. —A.H. abv: 12.5% Price: $27 abv: 13.5% Price: $45 abv: 13.5% Price: $18

Three Fox 2012 Alouette Cabernet Franc Zephaniah 2010 Three Captains Red (Vir- Château Morrisette 2009 Petit Verdot (Vir- 86 (Middleburg). Scents of thyme, tar, date 86 ginia). This blend of Cabernet Franc and 82 ginia). A subdued dried strawberry aroma and ripe strawberry lead onto the open-textured Chambourcin has a subdued, muddled nose, offer- leads to a medium-bodied palate, which has a thin palate. Medium in length, the finish comes with ing touches of cassis, asparagus and leather. On the wild-berry flavor and finishes with firm tannins. fine-grain tannins and balanced acids. —A.H. palate, the soft acids make this wine feel pliant, and —A.H. abv: 12% Price: $29 a thread of minerality gives it character. —A.H. abv: 12% Price: $20 abv: 12.9% Price: $25

RED BLENDS Old House 2010 Bacchanalia Reserve (Virgin- NEW YORK 85 ia). Black cherry, orange oil, fruitcake and Linden 2010 Boisseau Cabernet Sauvignon- vanilla wafer notes lead onto the medium-full pal- RIESLING 92 Merlot (Virginia). On first sniff, the French ate, which takes on a slight edge of desiccated black oak veneers the underlying brooding scent of black fruit. This blend of Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Boundary Breaks 2012 Single Clone No. 239 currant preserves. But with patience, the oak inte- Tannat and Chambourcin has sturdy tannins and a 92 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Boundary Breaks grates to reveal details of incense, cumin seed and finish of medium length. —A.H. has proven to be the break-out producer of the cocoa. This blend features a lush mouthfeel, which abv: NA Price: $22 Finger Lakes this year with an excellent line up of is bolstered by mighty tannins that act as a cre- wines, and this off-dry wine is amongst its best. El- scendo across the palate. It’s a bruiser of a wine, yet Bluestone 2010 Meritage (Virginia). Woody egantly perfumed with notes of fresh green florals despite the elevated alcohol it feels balanced and 84 and toasty aromas overlay the broad dark and herbs, it builds in power and expression on the maintains superb finesse. Give it an hour or two in fruit and black olive notes. Jumbled flavors on the palate with pristine white peach flavors pierced a decanter or several years in a cellar. Cellar Selec- midpalate lead to a chewy finish. —A.H. with lime acidity and a reverberating mineral finish. tion. —A.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $29 Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 15.8% Price: $40 abv: 11.4% Price: $20 Lost Creek 2011 Genesis (Virginia). Broad Lovingston 2010 Estate Reserve Josie’s Knoll 84 aromas of espresso and dark cherry carry Hermann J. Wiemer 2012 HJW Vineyard Dry 91 (Monticello). For full review see page 8. Edi- onto the medium- to full-bodied palate, which 92 Estate Bottled and Grown Riesling (Sen- tors’ Choice. comes with an edgy texture due in part to the el- eca Lake). Gorgeously aromatic with notes of white abv: 14.5% Price: $40 evated acids. —A.H. blossoms and waxy lime and lemon skins, this dry, abv: 13% Price: $29 delicately composed Riesling is a stunner. Tart The Williamsburg Winery 2007 Gabriel Ar- mango and and tangerine flavors are juicy on the 88 cher Reserve (Virginia). Aromas of sundry palate, accented with lemon verbena and a lingering spices and tomato paste, forest floor and cigar box OTHER RED WINES waxiness. It finishes remarkably long with a streak carry onto the medium-bodied palate, which bears of lemon acidity and a zesty astringency. Delicious a slack, pliant core. Fine tannins give the finish trac- Lovingston 2009 Josie’s Knoll Merlot (Mon- now for its youth and exuberance, but likely to de- tion. —A.H. 89 ticello). Exotic spice, toast, cocoa powder velop well over through 2021–2024. —A.I. abv: 13.6% Price: $32 and thyme are the lead aromas. Medium to full abv: 11.8% Price: $39 bodied with a supple attack, the palate picks up Tarara 2008 Winemaker’s Select Bin #5 (Vir- muscular tannins as the wine unfurls across the Hermann J. Wiemer 2012 Magdalena Vine- 87 ginia). Mature, integrated scents of leather, palate, and it ends with a tangy, mineral-tinged fin- 92 yard Dry Estate Bottled and Grown Riesling undergrowth and cigar box veil the underlying dark ish. —A.H. (Seneca Lake). It invigorates the senses with con- cherry and plum fruit. The lissome palate becomes abv: 13.5% Price: $19 centrated lemon and lime flavors tinged with min- firmer toward the finish as the medium-grain tan- erals, tart stone fruits and blossoms. It’s dry in style nins become palpable. —A.H. Château Morrisette 2010 Cabernet Sauvi- with a bold, mouth-filling palate, but gorgeously abv: 14% Price: $38 87 gnon (Virginia). Delectable notes of pastry elegant. Finishes long with a ripple of lime-zest as- spice, blackberry and vanilla unfurl onto the me- tringency. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. 8 Chains North 2010 Furnace Mountain Dry dium-bodied palate, which is bolstered by sinewy abv: 12.8% Price: $36 86 (Virginia). Black plum and cherry aromas tannins and finessed acids. —A.H. pick up an undergrowth hint. This is a succulent, abv: 12.1% Price: $18 Boundary Breaks 2012 Ovid Line North Ries- juicy wine with a finish that tastes earthy and feels 91 ling (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of herbs and green structured. —A.H. Pollak 2010 Estate Grown Merlot (Monti- florals persist from start to finish on this elegant abv: 14.5% Price: $32 87 cello). A note of sweet, dark earth picks up off-dry Riesling. The palate is lush with ripe white- tones of worn saddle leather and wood-inflected peach flavor, but blossomy and bright with a streak Pollak 2010 Estate Grown Meritage (Mon- cherry. Medium in body, this possesses a succulent of lemon-lime acidity. Finishes long with a delicate- 86 ticello). Notes of thyme, cocoa and broad core and chewy tannins. —A.H. ly lacy sweetness. —A.I. dark fruit lead to a malleable, medium-full palate. abv: 14.5% Price: $22 abv: 11.6% Price: $20 The finish conveys tang and iron. —A.H. abv: 14.5% Price: $28 Bogati 2012 Black Label Club Petit Verdot Boundary Breaks 2012 Single Clone No. 198 86 (Virginia). An amalgam of pastry crust, 91 Reserve Riesling (Finger Lakes). The floral Three2one Cellars 2009 Tranquility (Vir- mint, and mixed wild-berry aromas lead on the spray and sweet nectar of fresh yellow cherries per- 86 ginia). Cherry and plum notes are offset by nose. Medium to full in body, this sports firm, brit- sist from start to finish on this penetrating semi- coffee and spice tones. This is a succulent, medium- sweet wine. It’s rich and ripe with stone fruit fla-

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vors, but balanced with tart lime acidity and steely, Damiani 2012 Riesling (Finger Lakes). The Glenora 2012 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Fresh honed minerality. —A.I. 90 nose on this dry, medium-bodied wine is 89 pear and lemon aromas are brightened with abv: 10% Price: $25 fairly neutral, with subdued aromas of lemon, lime hints of white florals on this brisk, medium-bodied and apple. On the palate, however, it’s exuberant- wine. Off dry in style, it’s juicy on the palate with Hermann J. Wiemer 2012 Reserve Dry Estate ly floral with notes of orange blossom and white concentrated white peach flavors accented with 91 Bottled and Grown Riesling (Seneca Lake). peaches accented with lime zest and acidity. Fin- honey and tea notes. It’s an elegant yet easy quaffer While dry in style, this wine is chock full of ripe, ishes long with reverberating mineral tones. —A.I. at a very reasonable price. Best Buy. —A.I. rich yellow peach flavor accented with hints of abv: 11.9% Price: $16 abv: 12% Price: $14 dusty, floral potpourri and mineral tones. Its bold, expansive mouthfeel is penetrating on the palate, Dr. Konstantin Frank 2012 Reserve Riesling Red Newt Cellars 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger but cut with a line of lime acidity that lingers long 90 (Finger Lakes). For full review see page 9. 89 Lakes). Evergreen and herb notes accom- on the finish. Delicious now, but its sharp edges and abv: 11.5% Price: $25 pany fresh apple and lemon flavors in this dry, me- dark mineral tones should meld beautifully from dium-bodied wine. The palate is brisk with focused 2019–2021. —A.I. Dr. Konstantin Frank 2012 Semi Dry Riesling acidity and an invigorating lime-zest astringency on abv: 12.7% Price: $29 90 (Finger Lakes). For full review see page 12. the finish. —A.I. Best Buy. abv: 11.2% Price: $17 Hermann J. Wiemer 2012 Semi-Dry Riesling abv: 11.5% Price: $15 91 (Seneca Lake). Remarkable power and in- Red Newt Cellars 2012 Lahoma Vineyards tensity characterizes this ripe, honeyed wine. Off- Hermann J. Wiemer 2012 Dry Estate Bottled 89 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of blossoms dry in style, it’s round and rich on the palate with 90 and Grown Riesling (Seneca Lake). There’s accent aromas of fresh apples and dusty minerals loads of luscious peach and apricot flavors, yet nu- an intense minerality throughout this dry, elegantly on this semi-sweet Riesling. It dances nervously on anced with layers of white blossoms, lavender and structured wine. It’s boldly concentrated with yel- the palate with pretty white peach and floral notes spice. Thoroughly enjoyable now for its floral, fruity low peach and quince flavors, yet chiseled with accented with a streak of puckery lemon-lime acid- exuberance, it’s structured enough to develop well streaks of lime acidity, lanolin and steel. Finishes ity. Finishes with a hint of savory dried herbs. —A.I. through 2019. —A.I. long with a fragrant spray of honeysuckle. —A.I. abv: 8.6% Price: $20 abv: 11% Price: $18 abv: 12% Price: $19 Red Newt Cellars 2012 Semi-Dry Riesling Red Newt Cellars 2012 Tango Oaks Vineyard Lamoreaux Landing 2012 Estate Bottled 89 (Finger Lakes). Smoke, candlewax and lem- 91 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Perfumed and el- 90 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Whiffs on zest lend savory tones to fresh lemon and apple egant, this wine is a highlight within the producer’s of smoke and herbs add complexity to this beauti- flavors in this brisk off-dry wine. It’s piercingly tart line up of consistently well-made wines. Waxy hon- fully floral, fruity wine. Off-dry in style, it’s richly with a hit of lime acidity on the midpalate, but a eycomb and floral aromas accent fresh green notes concentrated with peach and apricot flavors that waxy richness adds body and mouthfeel. The mod- on this off-dry Riesling. It’s lean in style, yet plush reverberate on the palate with bracing lime-toned erately long finish carries a hint of honeysuckle per- with sweet white peach and melon flavors. Finishes acidity. The long finish has a bristle of lemon-zest fume. —A.I. long with a lingering spray of honeysuckle. —A.I. astringency. Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 10.3% Price: $15 abv: 11.5% Price: $20 abv: 12.8% Price: $14 Jamesport 2010 Riesling (North Fork of Long Bellangelo 2012 Gibson Vineyard Riesling Red Newt Cellars 2012 Bullhorn Creek Vine- 88 Island). Heady yellow flower and honey aro- 90 (Finger Lakes). Notes of apple blossoms and 90 yard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Vibrant and mas waft from this sunny, off-dry wine. The palate lilacs lend a floral exuberance to this semi-sweet fresh with hints of apple, green herbs and blossoms, is concentrated with fresh apple flavors, but pierced wine. It’s fresh and invigorating on the palate with this off-dry wine boasts a plush, juicy palate full with a streak of lime and lemon acidity. Finishes crisp pear and white peach flavors accented with of white peach and lime flavors. It’s anchored by a moderately long with a touch of lemon-zest astrin- herbs and sprightly acidity. —A.I. clean line of steely minerality that lingers elegantly. gency. —A.I. abv: 9.9% Price: $22 —A.I. abv: 12.2% Price: $21 abv: 11.2% Price: $20 Bloomer Creek 2012 Tanzen Dame More- Keuka Spring 2012 Riesling (Finger Lakes). 90 house Road Vineyard 1st Harvest Riesling Sheldrake Point 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger 88 Aromatic of ripe, lush summer peaches, (Finger Lakes). Notes of fresh herbs and melon rind 90 Lakes). Yellow peaches, waxy white florals this dry-style wine is deeply concentrated with lend a verdant tone to this semi-sweet, late-harvest and honeysuckle perfume this intensely aromatic preserved peach and apricot flavors accented with wine. The palate is crisp with tart green apple and wine. Floral notes persist on the palate as well, but streaks of Ceylon tea and lemony acidity. A bracing peach flavors, but imbued with touches of exotic are elegantly balanced with soft mineral tones and hint of bitter almond marks the finish. —A.I. orange spice and honey that linger mysteriously on an invigorating lime acidity. Distinctly elegant, it abv: 11.5% Price: $15 the finish. —A.I. finishes with a lingering hint of tea leaves. —A.I. abv: 10% Price: $22 abv: 11.9% Price: $16 Knapp 2012 Riesling (Finger Lakes). While 88 demure on the nose with gentle apple, pear Boundary Breaks 2012 Single Clone No. 110 Bellangelo 2012 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger and lemon aromas, this off-dry wine is buoyant on 90 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). Green 89 Lakes). Hints of evergreen lend a cool, al- the palate with juicy-tart flavors of peach, quince herb and crisp apple notes lend a refreshing kick pine air to fresh apple and lemon aromas on this and tangerine. It’s straightforward in its forward, to pretty white floral and honeydew flavors in this brisk, lean wine. Off-dry in style, the palate is fruity style, but unabashedly tasty with a pretty brisk, intensely concentrated wine. It’s semi-dry in sprayed with delicate rose petal notes and fresh ap- white-blossom note on the finish. —A.I. style with a delicate, honeyed sweetness that lin- ple and lime flavors. Finishes long with an elegant abv: 12% Price: $17 gers. —A.I. crushed-stone minerality. —A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $20 abv: 11% Price: $18 Red Newt Cellars 2012 Circle Riesling (Finger 88 Lakes). Hints of smoke and crushed min- erals lend a savory tone to this dependable classic

72 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 from Red Newt, accenting subtle flavors of white soms and a piercing lime acidity. It finishes moder- in style, it’s brisk with lemon and lime flavors that peach and nectarine. It’s delicate in frame, but pen- ately long. —A.I. linger on the finish. It’s a bit austere, but notable for etrating lemon-lime acidity jolts the palate. Best abv: 12% Price: $14 the honed, linear feel. —A.I. Buy. —A.I. abv: 11.3% Price: $15 abv: 11% Price: $13 Heron Hill 2012 Reserve Riesling (Finger 87 Lakes). Fragrant with notes of honeysuckle Bellwether 2012 A&D Vineyard Dry Riesling Red Newt Cellars 2012 Dry Reserve Riesling and lemon accenting aromas of pressed apple and 86 (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of smoke lend a sa- 88 (Finger Lakes). Waxy apple and lanolin pear, this off-dry wine benefits from juicy ripe apple vory feel to pressed apple notes on this dry, deli- notes lend a mineral tone to fresh pear and apple flavors that lend roundness and richness to the pal- cately framed wine. The palate bristles with lemon- flavors in this dry wine. The palate is lean with ate. It’s almost creamy in mouthfeel, but ends brisk- lime acidity and finishes long and lean with a hint piercing lime acidity and hints of struck steel that ly with puckering lime and lemon acidity. —A.I. of wet stones. —A.I. reverberate on the finish. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $25 abv: 11% Price: $22 abv: 11% Price: $24 Inspire Moore 2012 Timothy Moore Doyle Bellwether 2012 Sawmill Creek Vineyard Red Newt Cellars 2012 Sawmill Creek Vine- 87 Seneca Riesling (Finger Lakes). A fresh, blos- 86 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Hints of earth and 88 yards North Block Riesling (Finger Lakes). somy flair accompanies aromas of apple and pear on mushrooms lend a savory tone to aromas of pressed Flighty and delicate on the palate, this refreshingly this just slightly off-dry Riesling. Crisp on the palate apples and pears in this off-dry wine. The palate is mineral semi-sweet wine is juicy with sweet apple with tart white peach and lime flavors, it finishes bright and cheery with sweet apple and lemon fla- flavor accented with brisk lime acidity. Hints of with a hint of honey. —A.I. vors but finishes with a lingering spray of savory honey and white flowers linger softly on the finish. abv: 12% Price: $26 dried herbs and stems. —A.I. —A.I. abv: 9.5% Price: $22 abv: 7.2% Price: $20 Lamoreaux Landing 2012 Red Oak Vineyard 87 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Dusty, chalky tones Inspire Moore 2012 Timothy Moore Sim- Silver Thread 2012 Semi-dry Riesling (Finger accent fresh apple and pear flavors throughout this 86 mons Keuka Riesling (Finger Lakes). Savory, 88 Lakes). Delicate lavender and herb notes minerally off-dry wine. Honed and steely on the pal- smoky notes lend an earthy feel to this off-dry wine. perfume this pretty off-dry wine. It’s delicate in ate, it finishes briskly on a tart, lemony note. Re- The palate is moderately concentrated with fresh profile, but flavors of tart yellow stone fruit and freshing and quaffable in style. —A.I. apple flavor, but tart lime-skin notes and steely, blossom gain intensity on the palate with a streak abv: 12.5% Price: $20 piercing acidity take center stage. —A.I. of lemon-lime acidity. It concludes with a refreshing abv: 12% Price: $26 mineral tone. —A.I. Lamoreaux Landing 2012 Round Rock Vine- abv: 11.6% Price: $18 87 yard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Subtle floral Lakewood 2012 Riesling (Finger Lakes). notes accent apple and lemon notes in this refresh- 86 Smoke, saffron and spice notes add savory Atwater 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). ing, mineral-focused wine. Off-dry in style, it has notes to flavors of freshly pressed apples and pears 87 Austere in style yet refreshing and quaffable, soft lemony acidity and a mouth filling, juicy feel on this bristling off-dry wine. The palate is piercing this dry wine is crisp with fresh green-apple flavor that’s unabashedly thirst quenching. —A.I. with lime-tinged acidity, but finishes with a com- and a tart lemon-lime acidity that bristles the pal- abv: 12.7% Price: $20 forting touch of honey. —A.I. ate. It’s delicate in frame, but nicely concentrated abv: 11.9% Price: $13 with a lingering mineral finish. —A.I. Lamoreaux Landing 2012 Yellow Dog Vine- abv: 11.7% Price: $16 87 yard Riesling (Finger Lakes). Dusty mineral Lakewood 2012 3 Generations Riesling (Fin- notes add subtle complexity to refreshing apple, 86 ger Lakes). Earthy, smoky aromas introduce Bloomer Creek 2012 Tanzen Dame Auten lemon and lime notes on this off-dry wine. Brisk and this dry wine, but blow off with aeration to reveal 87 Vineyard 1st Harvest Riesling (Finger Lakes). zesty on the palate, it finishes moderately long with prettier white floral and lemon scents. It’s steely Aromas of crisp green apples, herbs and lemon waft a streak of lime-toned acidity. —A.I. and stark in style with bracing lemon-lime acidity, on this rustic off-dry wine. Apple-like and mineral abv: 12.7% Price: $20 but should make a great accompaniment to robust in tone, the palate recalls French apple cider, but goat cheeses or creamy pasta dishes. —A.I. with a kick with lemon-lime acidity. It finishes brisk Silver Thread 2012 Randolph O’Neil Vineyard abv: 12% Price: $20 and refreshing. —A.I. 87 Riesling (Cayuga Lake). Whiffs of crushed abv: 10.5% Price: $22 minerals and smoke lend nuance to this dry yet in- Red Newt Cellars 2012 Sawmill Creek Vine- tensely fruity wine full of Meyer lemon, peach and 86 yards Fred Block Riesling (Finger Lakes). Damiani 2012 Davis Vineyard Dry Riesling melon flavors. It’s brisk and dancing on the palate Subdued on the nose with hints of apple, pear and 87 (Finger Lakes). Hints of crushed stones lend with a bracing hit of lime acidity that lingers to- wet stones, this semi-sweet wine is stark and lean a mineral focus to this dry, elegantly structured wards a long, steely finish. —A.I. on the palate with flavors of pressed apple and lem- wine. It’s piercingly tart on the palate with loads of abv: 11.5% Price: $25 ons. It’s refreshing and easy drinking with a tight, fresh lime and lemon flavor, but gains richness on light-footed frame. —A.I. the midpalate with streaks of fresh apple and crisp Standing Stone 2012 Riesling (Finger Lakes). abv: 10% Price: $20 yellow peach. A hint of saffron adds spice to the 87 Exuberant floral notes lend a perfumy touch moderately long finish. —A.I. to fresh apple and pear aromas on this dry, medium- Red Newt Cellars 2012 Sawmill Creek Vine- abv: 12.1% Price: $22 bodied wine. The palate is ripe with concentrated 86 yards South Block Riesling (Finger Lakes). yellow cherry and plum flavors anchored with a Hints of floral perfume accent aromas of pressed Heron Hill 2012 Dry Riesling (Finger Lakes). puckering line of lime acidity. —A.I. apples and pears on this off-dry wine. The palate is 87 While dry in style, this Riesling entices on abv: 12.2% Price: $14 concentrated with apple flavor but has a jolting lime the nose with rich, ripe aromas of honeyed tanger- acidity that puckers the finish. —A.I. ines and pears. The palate is brisk and refreshing Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2012 Riesling abv: 10.8% Price: $20 with flavors of tart green apples kissed with blos- 87 (Finger Lakes). This delicate wine shimmers with minerality from start to finish. Steely and dry

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Standing Stone 2012 Old West Block Ries- som, peach and tropical fruit notes perfume this concentrated with fruit and floral flavors, but laced 86 ling (Finger Lakes). Waxy white floral notes big-bodied wine. Off dry in style, it fills the palate with a slightly confectionary sweetness. Quite bold accent fresh apple and pear aromas on this dry, with rich stone fruit and pineapple accented with in structure, it finishes with a lingering warmth. medium-bodied wine. The palate is crisp with a re- peppery spice and tangerine acidity. It’s a powerful —A.I. freshingly alpine coolness. Lime acidity pierces the yet nicely balanced wine with pleasant astringency abv: 13.5% Price: $18 finish. —A.I. on the finish. —A.I. abv: 12.2% Price: $19 abv: 13.9% Price: $15 Lucas Vineyards 2012 Dry Gewürztraminer 85 (Finger Lakes). Pink grapefruit and blos- Heron Hill 2012 Semi-Dry Riesling (Finger Sheldrake Point 2012 Gewürztraminer (Fin- somy floral aromas are exuberant and perfumy on 85 Lakes). Warm spice notes accent savory 89 ger Lakes). Gorgeous rose petal, spice and this dry, slightly demure wine. Tart with lime acid- pressed apple and pear notes on this straightfor- stone-fruit aromas waft from this intensely aromat- ity, it’s quaffable and unusually brisk on the palate, ward yet easy quaffer.Off-dry in style with sweet ic wine. It’s juicy on the palate with sweet lychee but lacks the variety’s characteristic volume and touches of clover honey, it finishes briskly with flavor but balanced with elegant tea tones. Round drama. —A.I. bright, lemony acidity. —A.I. and rich in feel with powerful body and alcohol, it abv: 12% Price: $14 abv: 11.5% Price: $14 finishes with a bristle of astringency. —A.I. abv: 13.4% Price: $18 Hosmer Winery 2012 Dry Riesling (Cayuga SAUVIGNON BLANC 85 Lake). Mineral and steely, this dry, deli- Keuka Spring 2012 Gewürztraminer (Finger cately framed wine reverberates on the palate with 88 Lakes). Rose petals and fresh herbs per- Damiani 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Finger a nervous lemon-lime acidity. Fresh apple and pear fume this intensely aromatic wine. Off dry in style, 89 Lakes). While restrained on the nose, this flavors are moderately concentrated but bristle it’s lush with juicy lychee flavor yet brisk with tan- wine shocks the palate with a powerful punch of with citrus zest, making it an apt pairing with rich, gerine acidity. Full bodied yet squarely structured, white peach, nectarine and citrus flavors. A brisk creamy cheeses or nuts. —A.I. it reveals delicate astringency on the finish. —A.I. line of lime acidity invigorates the midpalate lead- abv: 11.1% Price: $15 abv: 13% Price: $17 ing to a long, floral finish. —A.I. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 Inspire Moore 2012 Timothy Moore Rice Red Newt Cellars 2012 Curry Creek Vineyards 85 Canandaigua Riesling (Finger Lakes). Whiffs 88 Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). Aromas of Dr. Konstantin Frank 2012 Sauvignon Blanc of smoked nuts accent this savory, steely wine. luscious lychee, lemon and lime meld beautifully on 88 (Finger Lakes). Fresh floral and apple notes It’s off dry in style with straightforward apple and the nose of this bold, full-bodied wine. Off-dry in are showered with zesty lime and lemon on the nose lemon flavors, and finishes with a startling bristle style, it’s lush with sweet tropical-fruit flavors, but of this bright, invigorating wine. Dry and medium- of lime-tinged acidity. —A.I. balanced with a shimmer of lime acidity and revi- bodied in style, the palate boasts hints of freshly abv: 12% Price: $26 talizing blossom notes. It finishes with a touch of cut grass and green apples that lend an herbaceous alcoholic warmth. —A.I. touch to concentrated grapefruit flavors. —A.I. Leonard Oakes 2012 Reserve Series Riesling abv: 14.3% Price: $35 abv: 12% Price: $20 85 (New York). Intense honeysuckle and apple blossom aromas are stunning on the nose of this dry Keuka Spring 2012 Pre-Emption Vineyard Coffee Pot Cellars 2010 Sauvignon Blanc yet dainty wine. It’s remarkably low in alcohol for a 87 Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). Lychee and 86 (North Fork of Long Island). Heady floral dry-style wine, but feels a bit lacking in power and mango aromas waft from this delicate wine. Off-dry and stone fruit scents are enticing, but a bit per- concentration. Hints of steely minerals and brisk in style, it’s unusually brisk on the palate with crisp fumy on this aromatic wine. The palate is bright and lime-lemon acidity make for a refreshing finish. stone-fruit flavors and bright tangerine acidity. It fresh with brisk lemon and tangerine flavors that —A.I. closes with a lacy sweetness. —A.I. are straightforward yet enjoyable. —A.I. abv: 9.9% Price: $17 abv: 12% Price: $22 abv: 13% Price: $18

Bellwether 2012 A&D Vineyard Wild Ferment Red Newt Cellars 2012 Sawmill Creek Vine- Leonard Oakes 2012 Reserve Series Sau- 84 Riesling (Finger Lakes). Intensely smoky 87 yards Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). Vo- 86 vignon Blanc (New York). Mineral in tone and earthy in style, this wild-ferment Riesling is luptuous and heady, this lychee and mango-scented with faint apple and blossom aromas, this wine is strikingly dry with pressed apple and pear flavors wine balances juicy tropical fruit flavor with a hefty demure, yet refreshing. The palate is moderately struck with lime acidity. Lean and linear, it’s bris- dose of spice. It’s expansive on the palate with a concentrated with white grapefruit flavor accented tling and tart to the finish. —A.I. rich, textured mouthfeel, but tightened with a hint by zesty lime notes and a clean, wet-stone finish. abv: 11% Price: $27 of tangerine acidity. A touch of alcoholic heat marks —A.I. the finish. —A.I. abv: 13.2% Price: $17 abv: 13.6% Price: $35 GEWÜRZTRAMINER Billsboro 2012 Sawmill Creek Vineyard Sauvi- Red Newt Cellars 2012 Gewürztraminer (Fin- 85 gnon Blanc (Finger Lakes). There’s a tinge of Dr. Konstantin Frank 2012 Gewürztraminer 86 ger Lakes). With slightly subdued aromas herbaceous green stem amidst fresh apple and lem- 89 (Finger Lakes). Heady floral and spiced of spiced apples and lemon, this Gewürztraminer on aromas on this Sauvignon Blanc blended with peach notes are enticingly aromatic on this well- introduces itself a bit unusually. The round, full- 10% Albariño. Marked with nervous lime acidity, priced wine. Off-dry in style, it’s intensely concen- bodied palate reveals more characteristic lychee it’s lean on the palate with a hint of lime-skin bit- trated on the palate with juicy, sweet stone fruit and and floral tones offset by soft lemony acidity. It con- terness on the finish. —A.I. lychee flavors. Sprightly lemon acidity drives a long, cludes with a hint of alcoholic warmth. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $18 subtly spiced finish.Best Buy. —A.I. abv: 13.9% Price: $17 abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Raphael 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (North Fork Silver Thread 2013 Gewurztraminer (Finger 85 of Long Island). While subtle on the nose, Lamoreaux Landing 2012 Estate Bottled 86 Lakes). Ripe, juicy white peach and lychee this bright, refreshing wine is brisk with apple and 89 Gewürztraminer (Finger Lakes). Lavish blos- aromas entice on this off-dry wine. The palate is pear flavors marked with sunny lemonade acidity.

74 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 It’s straightforward in style, but pleasant and quaf- with a hint of astringency that pulls the finish to- fable. —A.I. PINOT BLANC gether. —A.I. abv: 12.2% Price: $15 abv: 12.5% Price: $NA Palmer 2011 Pinot Blanc (North Fork of Long Pindar Vineyards 2012 Estate Bottled Sau- 88 Island). Fresh and floral, it’s invigorating on Jamesport 2011 Chardonnay (North Fork 84 vignon Blanc (North Fork of Long Island). the nose and palate. While full bodied in structure 87 of Long Island). The scent of apple blos- Powerful whiffs of smoke and nuts lend a dark, sa- with rich, round touches of waxy lemon peel, it’s soms perfume this round, richly structured wine, vory tone to this brisk, medium-bodied wine. The dry in style with crisp citrus acidity that lingers on accentuating flavors of apple and pear on the pal- palate is tart with flavors of pressed apple accented the finish. —A.I. ate. Touches of vanilla and cream add weight and with grapefruit acidity and a hint of freshly cut abv: 13% Price: $20 mouthfeel, but the wine finishes crisp with lemony grass. —A.I. acidity and saline minerality. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 Glenora 2012 Pinot Blanc (Finger Lakes). abv: 13.5% Price: $18 87 Aromatic of fresh apples and pears with just Stony Lonesome 2012 Estate Reserve Sau- a hint of savory spice, this wine is full bodied yet Lieb 2008 Reserve Chardonnay (North Fork 83 vignon Blanc (Finger Lakes). Subtle aromas refreshingly brisk. Dry in style with subtle apple fla- 87 of Long Island). Ripe, fresh peach and apple of apple, pear and lemon are tinged with spice and vors, it finishes with a pleasant tartness. —A.I. flavors are lifted with a spray of white-floral per- a hint of spring ramps on this savory, earthy wine. abv: 13% Price: $14 fume on this pretty, easy-going wine. It’s brisk on The palate is brisk with apple flavor but finishes the palate with revitalizing lemon acidity and a hint with bitterness. —A.I. Lieb 2011 Reserve Pinot Blanc (North Fork of salinity on the finish. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $19 85 of Long Island). A spray of white floral per- abv: 12.5% Price: $24 fume lends freshness to pressed apple notes on this dry, medium-bodied wine. It’s rich and round on Mattebella 2009 Famiglia Chardonnay PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO the palate with a pleasantly waxy lanolin tone, but 87 (North Fork of Long Island). A whiff of flo- finishes briskly with a hint of tea-leaf astringency. ral potpourri that persists from start to finish adds Sheldrake Point 2012 Pinot Gris (Finger —A.I. elegance to this full-bodied wine. The palate is ex- 90 Lakes). Pretty honeysuckle and freesia abv: 12.5% Price: $22 pansive and rich, but finishes refreshingly tart with notes lend a blossomy feel to this supple, impec- flavors of crisp green apple and lemon. —A.I. cably balanced wine. Tart white peach, quince and Palmer 2010 Pinot Blanc (North Fork of Long abv: 12.9% Price: $17 pineapple flavors are juicy yet bracing on the palate. 85 Island). Touches of smoke and nuts add sa- It ends briskly with a shower of crushed minerals. voriness to pressed apple and pear flavors in this Palmer 2011 N 41° W 72° Chardonnay (North —A.I. full-bodied wine. It’s straightforward and dry, but 87 Fork of Long Island). Fresh and herbaceous, abv: 12.5% Price: $16 brisk, lemony acidity gives balance and freshness. but concentrated with youthful apple and pear fla- —A.I. vors, this elegantly balanced, full-bodied wine of- Lakewood 2012 Gigliotti Vineyards Pinot Gris abv: 13% Price: $20 fers wide appeal. Refreshing and quaffable, it fin- 88 (Finger Lakes). Deeply mineral in style with ishes briskly with a stream of lemony acidity. —A.I. hints of waxy lemon and lime skin, this bold, full- abv: 13% Price: $14 bodied wine boasts rich honey-apple flavors and a CHARDONNAY juicy, rounded mouthfeel. The moderately long fin- Comtesse Thérèse 2011 Chardonnay (North ish comes with a hint of savory herb. —A.I. Mattebella 2010 Famiglia Chardonnay 86 Fork of Long Island). Tart apple and pine- abv: 13.2% Price: $14 88 (North Fork of Long Island). Fresh apple apple aromas are fresh and inviting on this brisk, and pear aromas are lifted with hints of white flow- easy-going Chardonnay fermented in stainless steel. Thirsty Owl Wine Company 2012 Pinot Gris ers and honeydew on this full-bodied, elegantly The palate is bright with youthful apple and pear 87 (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of freshly pressed ap- balanced wine. The palate is slick with a drizzle flavors but finishes a bit short and simple. —A.I. ples and peaches entice on this brisk, easy-drinking of cream adding richness to flavors of apple and abv: 12.5% Price: $22 wine. Refreshing on the palate, it has a hint of min- lemon, but balanced with bright acidity and a brisk erality that lingers on the finish. —A.I. saline finish. —A.I. One Woman 2010 Chardonnay (North Fork abv: 12% Price: $15 abv: 12.9% Price: $19 86 of Long Island). Touches of vanilla accent flavors of freshly pressed apples and pears in this Hosmer Winery 2012 Pinot Gris (Cayuga Coffee Pot Cellars 2010 Chardonnay (North bold, full-bodied wine. Piercing lemon acidity adds 85 Lake). Lemony fresh with touches of miner- 87 Fork of Long Island). While subtle on the freshness to the palate, but the finish is a bit warm- al and earth, this easy-quaffing wine conveys subtle nose with hints of chamomile and pressed apple ing overall. —A.I. flavors of apple, pear and lemon. Dry in style, the aroma, this ripe, full-bodied Chardonnay is concen- abv: 12.9% Price: $20 expansive, full-bodied mouthfeel is cut by brisk, trated with apple and lemon flavors. It’s round in lemony acidity. —A.I. mouthfeel but marked with bright acidity that lends Roanoke Vineyards 2011 The Wild Chardon- abv: 12.7% Price: $16 steely precision to the finish. —A.I. 86 nay (North Fork of Long Island). Fresh, abv: 13% Price: $16 fruity and forward, this wine is full of bright apple, Pugliese 2011 Pinot Grigio (North Fork of peach and pineapple flavors. Dry in style with soft 83 Long Island). A bit savory in style, it has Comtesse Thérèse 2010 Russian Oak Char- lemon acidity, it’s quaffable and brisk, but finishes a hints of dried herb accenting flavors of pressed pear 87 donnay (North Fork of Long Island). Extend tad short and simple. —A.I. and apple. Cutting lemon acidity gives a refreshing aging in Russian oak lends a smoky, earthy inten- abv: 12.5% Price: $20 mouthfeel. —A.I. sity to fresh apple and pear notes on this medium- abv: 12% Price: $18 bodied wine. The palate is unabashedly oaky, but appealing with a rich, creamy tone reminiscent of salted caramels. Soft acidity lends balance, along

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cably balanced with acidity and an elegant mineral Standing Stone 2011 Ice Vidal Blanc (Finger OTHER DRY WHITE WINES tone that lingers on the finish. —A.I. 84 Lakes). Whiffs of smoke and nuts lend a sa- abv: 12.2% Price: $25/375 ml vory tone from start to finish on this ice-style wine. One Woman 2012 Grüner Veltliner (North It contrasts with a palate that’s redolent with ripe 89 Fork of Long Island). For full review see page Four Degrees of Riesling 2012 3rd Degree tangerine and peach flavors. Slick with honey, it’s 11. Editors’ Choice. 86 Late Harvest Sweet Riesling (Seneca Lake). lusciously tongue-coating but struck with a pierc- abv: 13% Price: $20 Smoke and mineral notes lend a prominent savory ing line of acidity that last through the finish. —A.I. tone to this wine, contrasting a palate that’s sunny abv: 12.6% Price: $25/375 ml Raphael 2012 Chardeaux (North Fork of Long and sweet with pressed apple and pear flavors. It’s 85 Island). This cheeky blend of Chardonnay straightforward in style, but refreshing with bright and Bordeaux-inspired Sauvignon Blanc is deli- lemon acidity and a lasting iced-tea sweetness. ROSÉS cately framed. Fresh and fruity, it discloses apple —A.I. and lemon notes accented with hints of smoke and abv: 9% Price: $15/375 ml Wölffer 2013 Grandioso Rosé (Long Island). savory nuts. —A.I. 91 Wölffer’s dusty pink Grandioso has a saline abv: 11.6% Price: $16 minerality on the nose, accenting whiffs of rasp- SWEET GEWÜRZTRAMINER berry and peach. As with the producer’s standard- bottle rosé, the palate is crisp with acidity, but more SWEET RIESLING Standing Stone 2010 Ice Gewürztraminer intensely concentrated with juicy white peach and 88 (Finger Lakes). Dusty saffron, dried herb yellow cherry flavors. The elegant finish carries a Red Tail Ridge 2012 Sticky Riesling (Finger and mineral notes lend savoriness to flavors of lus- touch of cherry blossom perfume. —A.I. 93 Lakes). For full review see page 5. Editors’ cious, ripe yellow peach and apricot jam in this abv: 11.5% Price: $29 Choice. bold, tongue-coating ice-style wine. Bright Meyer abv: 8.8% Price: $50/375 ml lemon and tangerine acidity shine through the fin- Anthony Nappa 2013 Anomaly Pinot Noir ish, along with subtle astringency. —A.I. 90 (New York). Exuberant on the nose, with Boundary Breaks 2012 Single Vineyard Single abv: 11.7% Price: $25/375 ml aromas of fresh blossoms, luscious melon and 92 Clone No. 90 Late Harvest Riesling (Finger peach, this wine is a welcome harbinger of long Lakes). Intensely tropical on the nose with notes One Woman 2010 Dessert Wine Gewürztra- summer nights to come. It’s rich and ripe with red of honey-glazed mango and peach, this silky sweet 86 miner (North Fork of Long Island). Spice cherry and berry flavor, but refreshingly brisk. A wine is stunningly complex yet unabashedly tasty. notes accent high-toned mango and orange aromas chalky minerality lingers on the finish. —A.I. The palate is unctuous with layers of rich marma- in this unctuously sweet wine. Luscious and fruity abv: 12.3% Price: $20 lade cut with bright acidity and sprays of blossom on the palate, it concludes with a hit of astringency. and tea leaf that linger endlessly on the finish.Edi - —A.I. Dr. Konstantin Frank 2013 Pinot Noir Dry tors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 14% Price: $45/375 ml 90 Rosé (Finger Lakes). For full review see page abv: 14.2% Price: $30/375 ml 12. Best Buy. abv: 12.5% Price: $14 Hermann J. Wiemer 2012 Josef Vineyard Late SWEET VIDAL BLANC 92 Harvest Estate Bottled and Grown Riesling Kelby James Russell 2013 Nutt Road Vine- (Seneca Lake). It’s hard to choose a favorite amidst Leonard Oakes 2011 Ice Wine Vidal Blanc 90 yard Dry Rosé (Finger Lakes). Our first Wiemer’s 2012 lineup, but this one is a strong con- 87 (New York). Saffron and honey accent juicy sampling of the eponymous wines from winemaker tender. It’s brisk, yet intensely penetrating on the tropical mango and pineapple aromas in this vi- Kelby James Russell is remarkably promising. Per- nose and palate, with a luscious, juicy palate full of brant yet delicately framed ice wine. The palate is fumed with rose petal and fresh cherry aromas, sweet white peach and mango flavors. Zesty lem- elegantly nuanced with hints of candle wax, herbs this Cabernet Franc rosé is lush yet easy drinking on-lime acidity and a crush of minerals linger on and crushed stone; savory spice notes linger on the with juicy red-fruit flavor. Dry in style, it’s elegantly the finish. It’s a complex yet effortlessly enjoyable finish. —A.I. framed with a bristle of astringency on the finish. medium-sweet Riesling to savor now, or through abv: 8.8% Price: $50/375 ml —A.I. 2021–2024. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $16 abv: 8.6% Price: $45 Leonard Oakes 2009 Late Harvest Vidal 87 Blanc (New York). Saffron and pollen notes Paumanok 2013 Dry Rosé (North Fork of Hermann J. Wiemer 2012 Late Harvest Estate lend spice and earth to this sunny, tropical wine. 90 Long Island). Exuberant raspberry and 91 Bottled and Grown Riesling (Seneca Lake). Medium sweet in style, it’s chock full of honeyed cherry notes scent this dusty pink rosé. While brisk Hints of lanolin and beeswax lend a luxurious slick orange, peach and mango flavors. Searing tangerine and dry on the palate, it’s juicy and mouth-quench- to this delicately framed yet remarkably complex acidity adds balance. It finishes moderately long ing with ripe white peach and red berry flavors. It medium-sweet wine. White peach and pineapple with a waxy, honeyed slick. —A.I. finishes minerally with lingering salinity. —A.I. flavors are luscious and ripe, but pierced with a abv: 12.5% Price: $20/375 ml abv: 12% Price: $19 streak of lime acidity and steely minerality. It fin- ishes long with a swathe of fresh green herbs and Heron Hill 2011 Late Harvest Vidal Blanc Wölffer 2013 Rosé (Long Island). Hints of lime zest. —A.I. 86 (Finger Lakes). Intensely honeyed, this silky 90 bramble accent bright raspberry and peach abv: 8.6% Price: $25 wine abounds with sweet tropical fruit and citrus scents on this refreshingly dry rosé. Juicy and fresh tinged with savory hints of saffron and tea. The pal- on the palate, it balances intense cherry and wild Standing Stone 2012 Ice Riesling (Finger ate is rich and sweet with bright orange and tan- strawberry flavors with a brisk, brash acidity that 91 Lakes). The crown jewel of the winery’s ice- gerine flavors cut with searing acidity and a slightly drives a long finish. —A.I. style wines, it’s gorgeously aromatic with notes of astringent finish. —A.I. abv: 11.5% Price: $17 tropical mango and pineapple adorned with honey abv: 10% Price: $18/375 ml and blossoms. Dripping with nectar and yellow Fox Run 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Finger peach preserves, it’s lusciously sweet, yet impec- 89 Lakes). Brambly raspberry aromas are ac-

76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 cented with a dusting of minerals on this dry, re- Wölffer 2010 Merlot (Long Island). Black freshing rosé. The palate is delicate with subtle red- CABERNET FRANC 90 cherry and plum run deep, dark and rich cherry flavor but finishes elegantly with a lingering throughout this concentrated Merlot (blended with cherry blossom perfume. —A.I. Bloomer Creek 2011 Vin d’été Unfined & Un- Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Ver- abv: 12% Price: $15 90 filtered Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes). For dot). Refreshingly brisk on the palate, it’s nuanced full review see page 9. with earthy hints of granite and bramble wood. Sheldrake Point 2013 Dry Rosé (Finger abv: 11.2% Price: $18 It’s bold and richly structured, yet impeccably bal- 89 Lakes). A lovely cherry blossom fragrance anced. —A.I. persists from start to finish on this dusty pink Cab- Heron Hill 2010 Ingle Vineyard Cabernet abv: 13.3% Price: $20 ernet Franc rosé. The palate is dry with bright red- 88 Franc (Finger Lakes). Hints of spice and va- cherry and berry flavors that penetrate deeply along nilla waft warmly amidst ripe blackberry and cherry Palmer 2009 Merlot (North Fork of Long with hints of granite and nervy lime-toned acidity. notes on this deeply concentrated wine. Tart cran- 88 Island). Whiffs of barnyard and earth lend Best Buy. —A.I. berry acidity and a spray of violet florals add flair to a rustic, yet comforting, tone to black cherry and abv: 12.2% Price: $14 the palate. It finishes moderately long with a layer berry aromas on this elegant, Old-World style wine. of velvety fine tannins. —A.I. The palate is crisp with tart black-fruit flavors Shinn Estate 2013 Rosé (North Fork of Long abv: 12.5% Price: $25 framed within layers of soft, chalky tannins. It fin- 89 Island). Rose petal notes perfume this in- ishes moderately long. —A.I. tensely aromatic rosé, accenting concentrated sour Heron Hill 2011 Cabernet Franc (Finger abv: 13% Price: $NA cherry and raspberry flavors. A robust blend of 87 Lakes). Bright blackberry and cherry aromas Merlot and Cabernet Franc, it’s dry in style but rich are spiked with spice and vanilla on this delicate Raphael 2010 Estate Merlot (North Fork of and ripe with fruit flavors. A hint of chalk and salin- wine. It’s a bit subdued on the palate but brisk with 88 Long Island). Aromas of rich, concentrated ity mark the elegant finish. —A.I. cranberry acidity and a hint of leafy herbs. It fin- blackberry preserves are accented with spice and abv: 13.3% Price: $16 ishes moderately long with soft tannins. —A.I. char on this medium-bodied wine. Soft acidity adds abv: 12.5% Price: $15 refreshment to the midpalate, guiding a moderately Bedell 2013 Taste Rosé (North Fork of Long long finish tinged with granite and fine-grained tan- 88 Island). Delicate raspberry and bramble Lakewood 2011 Reserve Cabernet Franc (Fin- nins. —A.I. notes waft from this unusual blend of Cabernet 87 ger Lakes). With its high abv, this monster abv: 12.6% Price: $16 Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Pinot Noir. Cabernet Franc is quite an anomaly in the Finger Dry and lean, it’s subtle on the palate with dainty Lakes. It’s intensely aromatic with notes of black Sherwood House Vineyards 2010 Oregon red-berry flavors marked with brisk acidity and an cherry and berries accented with bramble and for- 88 Road Merlot (North Fork of Long Island). elegant spray of cherry blossoms on the finish. —A.I. est floor. The palate packs a punch with big, concen- Fresh black cherry and plum aromas are pristine abv: 11.5% Price: $20 trated black plum flavors layered in spicy oak and and primary, accentuating flavors of spiced cherry tannins. It’s brawny and bold and sure to get atten- pie in this approachable wine. Juicy and ripe on the Bellwether 2013 Sawmill Creek Vineyard Pi- tion on the dinner table. —A.I. palate, it’s also elegant with soft, finely-grained tan- 88 not Noir Dry Rosé (Finger Lakes). The nose abv: 16.8% Price: $30 nins that linger on the finish. —A.I. of this Pinot Noir rosé is enticing with hints of ripe abv: 13.3% Price: $18 raspberry and violet. Subtle yet elegant on the pal- Lucas Vineyards 2011 Dry Cabernet Franc ate, it’s brisk and tonic with delicate berry flavors 87 (Finger Lakes). Sumptuous red cherry and accented by a refreshing mineral tone that lingers berry notes are accented with hints of clay and to- PINOT NOIR on the finish. —A.I. mato leaf on this rich, spicy, judiciously oaked wine. abv: 11.5% Price: $18 It’s powerful on the palate with intense black cherry Bloomer Creek 2010 Unfined & Unfiltered flavors and fine tannins on the finish. —A.I. 90 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). Fresh and fra- Fox Run 2013 Rosé of Lemberger (Finger abv: 13% Price: $NA grant like a thicket of raspberries on a summer day, 88 Lakes). Enticingly brambly and a bit wild this is a luxuriously fruity, yet impeccably balanced in character, this rosé of Lemberger (with a quarter Pinot Noir. The palate is deeply concentrated with Pinot Noir in the blend) is crisp and refreshing with MERLOT cassis and red berry flavors, along with streaks of fresh raspberry and cherry flavors. It’s brisk on the cranberry acidity and granite that lend elegance and palate with a rich, fruity palate that lingers moder- The Grapes of Roth 2007 Merlot (Long Is- style. Layers of soft, finely grained tannins charac- ately long. —A.I. 91 land). Over the last few years, veteran wine- terize the long finish. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $20 maker Roman Roth’s eponymous Merlot has proven abv: 12.6% Price: $30 to be a consistent winner. His 2007 vintage is no Silver Thread 2013 Dry Rosé (Finger Lakes). exception. While intensely ripe with a rich, almost Fox Run 2009 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). 88 Ripe, luscious raspberries lend a brambly raisined black-fruit character, it’s balanced with 87 Youthful red cherry notes are accented with tone to this dry, invigorating Pinot Noir rosé. The hints of granite, smoke and brine that all lend a sa- hints of bramble wood and herbs on this brisk, deli- palate is concentrated with summer berry flavors vory, earthy tone. Penetratingly tannic and robust cately structured wine. It’s subtle on the palate, but pierced with a stream of tart lemonade acidity. in structure, it’s a wine to decant now, or cellar refreshingly mineral with soft tannins that linger on —A.I. through 2019–2021. Cellar Selection. —A.I. the finish. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 abv: 13.5% Price: $44 abv: 12% Price: $15

Keuka Spring 2013 Wiltberger Vineyard Field One Woman 2010 Estate Reserve Merlot Heron Hill 2010 Ingle Vineyard Pinot Noir 86 Blend Dry Rosé (Finger Lakes). Whiffs of 90 (North Fork of Long Island). For full review 86 (Finger Lakes). Hints of autumn leaf and bramble and earth lend a savory tone to fresh red see page 10. bramble add rustic warmth to this delicate wine. berry and apple flavors in this dry-style rosé. It’s abv: 13.1% Price: $48 Medium bodied, the palate is brisk with tart red brisk with acidity and refreshingly quaffable. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $17

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cherry and berry flavors accented with soft tannins Palmer 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (North on the finish. —A.I. 86 Fork of Long Island). Whiffs of blackberry COLORADO RED WINES abv: 12.5% Price: $20 and plum preserve hint towards the dense, richly concentrated nature of this boldly fruity wine. It’s Sutcliffe 2010 Syrah (Colorado). Sexy, al- Lakewood 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Finger rustic in style with hints of earth and mulch, and 90 luring notes of blackberry and blueberry 85 Lakes). Notes of fresh cherry and raspberry big, grippy tannins that lend bite to the finish. —A.I. cobbler, pastry spice and maduro carry onto the are peppered with hints of tomato leaf and bramble abv: 13% Price: $29 full-bodied palate. This Syrah feels polished and on this savory wine. It’s full bodied on the palate, finessed, and it reveals a tapering black-raspberry but touches of cranberry give it a brisk, refreshing note on the warm, muscular finish. —A.H. feel. It finishes with soft, yet slightly astringent tan- OTHER AMERICA abv: 15.4% Price: $30 nins. —A.I. abv: 13.3% Price: $30 AMERICAN WHITE WINES TEXAS Lamoreaux Landing 2010 Estate Bottled Margerum 2012 Klickitat Pinot Gris (Amer- 85 Pinot Noir (Finger Lakes). Char and savory 90 ica). Made with grapes sourced from both Messina Hof 2010 Private Reserve Double spices accent blackberry and cherry aromas on this California and Washington states, this Pinot Gris 86 Barrel Cabernet Sauvignon (Texas). Core crisp, medium-bodied wine. On the palate, delicate delivers dry, concentrated Meyer lemon and lime aromas of blackberry preserves and blueberry com- fruit flavors are a bit overwhelmed amidst layers of flavors, accented with mouthwatering acidity. pote are accented with touches of dough and spicy oak and spice. It ends with a soft kiss of tannins. There’s no oak at all, leaving the wine clean and vi- oak barrel. The palate is concentrated, grapy and —A.I. brant. —S.H. herbal, and it bears astringent tannins that surface abv: 12.7% Price: $35 abv: 13.6% Price: $21 on the back end of the palate. —A.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 Honora NV Sauvignon Blanc (America). RED BLENDS 82 Lemon tart, with a whisp of almond on the nose, this is a fairly sour white wine, disjointed and MICHIGAN T’Jara 2010 Reserve (North Fork of Long Is- unclear. Made from California grapes at a winery in 89 land). A whiff of Graham cracker lends a Vermont. —V.B. Domaine Berrien 2010 Syrah (Lake Michigan warm, spicy tone to youthful black cherry and plum abv: 16.1% Price: $18 87 Shore). Dark, compelling notes of espresso flavors in this bold blend that includes small pro- bean and incense, charred herb and bread hit the portions of Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Cabernet nose first. The palate feels full and round, and it Sauvignon. Lush and fruity on the palate, it main- ARIZONA RED WINES possesses stimulating acids that give lift. —A.H. tains elegance with a vein of granite minerality and abv: 13% Price: $20 grippy, mouthfilling tannins. —A.I. Page Springs 2011 Arizona Stronghold Vine- abv: 13.5% Price: $34 88 yard Clone 383 Syrah (Cochise County). Leather and Spanish cedar notes meld with pome- NORTH CAROLINA Jamesport 2007 Sidor Reserve (North Fork granate, blackberry and fennel seed scents. This 88 of Long Island). Pristine black cherry and medium- to full-bodied wine is soft and succulent, Westbend Vineyards 2008 Terry Vintner’s plum flavors are layered in swathes of savory dried bolstered by fine, firm tannins. Only 50 cases pro- 88 Family Reserve (Yadkin Valley). Worn leath- herbs, char and coffee on this bold, big-bodied red. duced. —A.H. er, exotic spice, forest floor and narcissus notes Juicy red-fruit flavors are unabashedly forward on abv: 13.7% Price: $45 carry onto the medium-bodied palate of this North the palate, but reined in with a shower of revital- Carolina red. Fine, sinewy tannins tug on your up- izing acidity. It finishes with soft tannins. —A.I. Page Springs 2011 Vino del Barrio (Cochise per lip, lending the palate traction. The long, linger- abv: 13.5% Price: $34 87 County). A scent of desiccated black fruit ing finish emphasizes the wine’s earthy qualities. hits the nose first, followed by touches of herbal tea —A.H. Pellegrini 2010 Vintner’s Pride Estate Grown and dark cherry. A wild blend of Syrah, Petite Sirah, abv: 12.8% Price: $50 88 Encore (North Fork of Long Island). Ripe Tempranillo, Alicante and Mourvèdre, this has a black plum and cherry aromas are accented with concentrated palate and tonic acidity. —A.H. Westbend Vineyards 2008 Les Soeurs Re- hints of fresh herbs on this bold, full-bodied red. abv: 13.2% Price: $16 87 serve Cabernet Sauvignon (Yadkin Valley). The palate is deeply concentrated with black fruit Idiosyncratic notes of leaf litter, cheese rind, tobac- flavor, but touches of granite and wet stone lend a Pillsbury 2011 Wild Child Red (Cochise Coun- co and desiccated black fruit mark this North Caro- mineral elegance. Finishes moderately long with a 87 ty). Ripe scents of spiced wild strawberry, lina Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium to full bodied, velvety swathe of tannins. —A.I. raspberry and herbal tea lead onto the lush medi- this has a supple core that’s framed by fine, tight abv: 13% Price: $NA um- to full-bodied palate, which tastes concentrat- tannins. —A.H. ed and lively. The long finish is marked by a tangy abv: 12.9% Price: $27 orange-zest note. —A.H. OTHER RED WINES abv: 14.8% Price: $20 NEW JERSEY Martha Clara 2010 Syrah (North Fork of Long Pillsbury 2011 Roan Red (Cochise County). 87 Island). Whiffs of spice and dark toast lend 86 The subdued nose offers traces of red fruits Heritage 2010 Estate Reserve Syrah (Outer warmth to ripe black cherry aromas on this Syrah- and rose petals. On entrance, this feels broad and 87 Coastal Plain). Ripe aromas of red cherry, Viognier blend. The palate is brisk with tart cassis juicy, and it offers tangy plum and raspberry flavors raspberry, toasty oak and fines herbes lead onto the and plum flavors wrapped up tightly within layers that continue onto the finish. —A.H. medium- to full-bodied palate. It has jazzy, succu- of mouthfilling tannins. —A.I. abv: 13.9% Price: $28 lent acids, dusty tannins and a tangy finish. —A.H. abv: 13% Price: $24 abv: 13% Price: $35

78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 OTHER AMERICAN RED WINES

Arizona Stronghold 2010 Dala Cabernet Sau- 88 vignon (America). Alluring notes of pastry dough, spiced blackberry and strawberry-flavored fruit leather carry onto the succulent, medium- to full-bodied palate. Firm tannins bolster the wine’s nutty herbal-tea flavor, and it concludes with a tex- tured finish. —A.H. abv: 13.9% Price: $18

Cooper’s Hawk NV Shiraz (America). Aromas 87 of syrupy red cherry, vanilla and mint meld with touches of blackberry and pepper. The wine delivers notable concentration, plush texture and a lingering finish. —A.H. abv: 13.5% Price: $18

Arizona Stronghold 2010 Lozen (America). 86 Understated aromas of pastis, fines herbes and portobello detail the core notes of blackberry and dark cherry. The wine has a slick, tender palate, with furry tannins surfacing on the finish. —A.H. abv: 13.7% Price: $40

Honora NV Reserve Syrah (America). Still 86 wound tight, it shows promise via its pep- pery underbelly surrounding a core of raspberry, cedar and herb. Made from California grapes at a Vermont-based winery. —V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $35

Honora NV Cabernet Sauvignon (America). 80 There’s a harsh edge to this wine, made by a Vermont-based winery from California grapes. Its aromas and flavors are elusive and the wine, if it’s to be drunk at all, should be drunk soon. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $23

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Counter Gin (USA; Batch 206 Distillers, Seat- 91 tle, WA). The gingerbread-like aroma entices with a fleeting whiff of nutmeg and baking spice, while the palate zings with grapefruit-peel bitter- ness and lemon verbena. The mouthwatering finish SPIRITS harmoniously echoes the spicy notes detected in the It’s American Gin For the Win aroma: anise, cardamom, baking spice, and a final dose of citrus, all smoothed over by a cucumber-like freshness. round the Fourth of July, it’s tradition to in particular may want to finagle a bottle of St. abv: 40% Price: $30 toast to Independence Day with a glass George’s Dry Rye “Reposado”—a term usually of something made in the United States. reserved for aged Tequila. TRU organic gin (USA; Greenbar Distillery, Los Lately, it’s become easier than ever to In another sign of the times: Local Wine 91 Angeles, CA). Though golden orange in the makeA that drink a delicious cocktail spiked with and Spirits, a Chicago-based producer and glass, this is not a barrel-aged gin; rather, it’s in- fused with botanicals (as most gins are), but hasn’t American-made gin. distributor, is petitioning the government had the color distilled out. It’s sweet and soft on the Although London dry gins will never go out to include “American Dry” as a bona fide gin palate, and the different constituents sing out clear- of style, the growing ranks of “New American” category. ly: juniper, anise and clove are backed by a wave of or “New Western” gins have “It will be the tip of the honey and allspice, plus a surprising dark-fruit note made strong strides. In addition spear in moving towards in the back of the palate and a light floral accent on Although London the exit. to the required juniper, which greater appellation in our dry gins will nev- abv: 42% Price: $35 defines gin, these new American craft spirits,” LWS says. “We gins may be flavored with a er go out of style, can envision the day when Waterloo Antique Barrel Reserve Gin (USA; wider array of botanicals—often the growing ranks regional gins like Sonoma 91 Treaty Oak Distilling Co., Austin, TX). Bold and nods to regional fruit, citrus or Coast Gin, Rocky Mountain gutsy, this burnished-copper, barrel-aged gin re- of “New American” sembles a cross between whiskey and aged rum. The floral ingredients, as well as Gin, Southwest Chaparral Gin or “New Western” deep, funky aroma suggests molasses and root beer, herbs and spices. all exist and create a tapestry though the palate veers closer to brown sugar, fin- Amid this innovation, we can gins have made of style that is as unique as ishing with dry notes of chamomile tea, cedar and also report that barrel-aged gins strong strides. the people who live in various clove. In some ways this unusual gin is similar to are increasingly exciting. This regions of our country.” (Want the sweeter old tom-style genre; it should be inter- esting to watch how bartenders use this to re-create new-to-us style of gin (in truth, to sign their petition? Find it Martinez cocktails and other gin-soaked classics. it’s a very old technique, with historical roots online at localwinecompany.wordpress.com) abv: 47% Price: $26 back to when barrels were the primary means That kind of independent spirit is what the of transporting spirits), reclaims barrels that Fourth of July is all about—and we’ll gladly Bummer & Lazarus Dry Gin (USA; Raff Distill- previously held whiskey or wine. Wine-lovers drink to that. —Kara Newman 90 erie, San Francisco, CA). Distilled from Cali- fornia grapes, it holds a bold, mildly sweet profile. At first sip, candied citrus peel seems to dominate, but star anise really rings through on the spicy fin- Bourbon Barrel Gin (USA; Watershed Waterloo Texas-Style Gin (USA; Treaty Oak ish. It delivers a soft and smooth feel. 94 Distillery, Columbus, OH). Infused with 93 Distilling Co., Austin, TX). For full review see abv: 46% Price: $35 citrus peel and spices, then aged in a former page 14. Best Buy. Bourbon barrel for 12 months, this mellow, soft abv: 47% Price: $19 North Shore Distillery Distiller’s Gin No. 11 gin has lots of body. Look for a good dose of vanilla 90 USA; North Shore Distillery, Lake Bluff, IL). chased by cinnamon heat, plus touches of honey, Bluecoat American Dry Gin (USA; Philadel- This is styled after a classic dry gin. Look for mild oak and citrus on the finish. With a splash of simple 92 phia Distilling, Philadelphia, PA). Made in aromatics that nod to white flowers and citrus. syrup, this complex, golden gin is almost a cocktail the London dry style and packaged in a distinctive On the palate, lightly sweet candied-lemon peel is on its own. peacock-blue bottle, this gin has mild aromatics and framed by lively juniper and anise, finishing with a abv: 44% Price: $40 fleeting sweetness on the palate chased by citrus, brisk flourish of pink peppercorns and ginger. Rec- juniper and spice. The finish is crisp and assertive, ommended for gimlets and other cocktails. Karner Blue Distilled Gin (USA; Flag Hill Dis- even slightly hot at 94 proof, but that won’t matter abv: 45% Price: $33 93 tillery, Lee, NH). This brisk, citrusy gin is once mixed into a tall gin-and-tonic or Tom Collins. made for classic cocktails. Bold lemon and grape- abv: 47% Price: $28 St. George Dry Rye Reposado Gin (USA; St. fruit notes meld with a light floral note and just 90 George Spirits, Alameda, CA). Get ready, enough juniper to hold it all together. Amid the Four Peel Gin (USA; Watershed Distillery, Co- wine-lovers: this unusual rosy gin is made from a bright citrus bouquet, you might detect another, 92 lumbus, OH). As the name suggests, this is rye base, infused with gin botanicals, and then is more elusive fruity scent. Surprise! This gin is dis- a citrus-forward gin. It’s lightly sweet, with notes “rested” for 18 months in casks that previously held tilled from apples. of candied lemon peel and lemon verbena, finishing Syrah and Grenache wines. Oddly, the end result is abv: 44% Price: $30 with white pepper and ginger sparks plus a subtle not particularly wine-, whiskey-, nor gin-like. It’s floral note. Score a bottle to lend extra presence a whole other animal, crazily hoppy and malty and to citrusy drinks like gin-and-tonics or sour-style oaky, with a mild effervescence and an amaro-like cocktails. roots-and-herbs presence that winds into a round- abv: 44% Price: $28 ed but fleeting dark-fruit quality on the finish. Try

80 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 dosing with sweet vermouth for a Manhattan-like soft hint of mint arrives on the nose and palate, plus cocktail. a whisper of citrus on the finish. abv: 49.5% Price: $50 abv: 40% Price: $12

Curious Gin (USA; Catskill Distilling Com- OOLA Gin (USA; Oola Distillery, Seattle, WA). 89 pany, Bethel, NY). Juniper-forward aromas 85 The aroma is oddly sweet, like overripe ba- suggest a classic London dry profile. The lively, nana and vanilla. On the palate, it takes on more brisk palate features anise and juniper, finishing traditional gin-like characteristics, malty at first, crisp, if somewhat hot. Bring on the dry vermouth with repeated sips eventually coaxing out touches and mix up a pitcher of well-chilled martinis. of juniper, rosemary and white pepper. An alterna- abv: 40% Price: $33 tive suggestion: Oola’s rosemary-infused vodka is dynamite, and it’s closer to a traditional gin profile. North Shore Distillery Distiller’s Gin No. 6 abv: 47% Price: $38 89 (USA; North Shore Distillery, Lake Bluff, IL). This interpretation of a “modern dry gin” is spicy, potent and bright. It has an enticing grapefruit peel INTERNATIONAL GINS aroma. On the palate, alcohol heat leads, but then unfolds to show zingy citrus, anise and coriander. Tanqueray No. Ten (England; Diageo, Nor- At 90 proof, there’s plenty of alcohol presence, but 96 walk, CT). More citrus-forward than the it should stand up nicely to dilution in a long drink standard Tanqeray Dry bottling, this is gin & tonic like a classic gin-and-tonic or Tom Collins. perfection. The classic aroma features juniper and abv: 45% Price: $33 touches of mint, anise and coriander. The same is echoed on the palate, though it’s also bursting with Copperworks Distilling Company (USA; Cop- grapefruit and lemon peel, finishing soft and herba- 88 perworks Distilling, Seattle, WA). Made ceous but perked up with a white peppercorn spark. from Washington state barley, this is a bold and The No. Ten also has a new art deco-inspired bottle, spicy take on gin. It’s malty and lightly sweet, with making it a particularly gift-worthy choice for sum- notes of anise, cardamom and cassia bark. mer party-goers. abv: 47% Price: $39 abv: 47.3% Price: $42

Halcyon Organic Distilled Gin (USA; Blue- Tanqueray Malacca Gin (England; Diageo, 88 water Distilling, Everett, WA). Despite the 94 Norwalk, CT). For years, Malacca was best nearly neutral scent that offers just a faint citrusy known as a cult gin. Slightly sweeter and less juni- hint, the palate of this organic gin is bolder (and pery than London dry gins, it is supposedly based hotter) than its wan nose suggests. It’s fairly pop- on Charles Tanqueray’s own 1830s recipe. It was ping with anise, citrus, juniper, menthol and spear- made available briefly in the late 1990s, before it mint. Made with 100% organic ingredients. was whisked off the shelves. Once again, this is a abv: 46% Price: $35 limited-edition bottling. It’s soft, herbal and fresh, with green notes that evoke spearmint and basil, Catoctin Creek Watershed Gin (USA; Catoctin just enough juniper for backbone, and a delicate 87 Creek Distilling, Purcellville, VA). Made from rosewater finish. It’s a natural for classic cocktails, a mix of rye and wheat, this fiery 100-proof spirit so let’s hope it sticks around a while this time. might at first fool you into thinking it’s a white abv: 40% Price: $28/1 L whiskey. But it has an intriguingly complex botani- cal backbone. The savory aroma features an olive Bulldog London Dry Gin (England; Campari brine note, while the palate shows malty sweetness 90 America, San Francisco, CA). Although the and anise chased by citrus, finishing with a floral scent is relatively neutral, with just a mild hint of touch on the tip of the tongue. floral and clean lemon zest, this proves a complex, abv: 50% Price: $38 spicy gin on the palate. It feels light and silky, even oily. Beyond the standard juniper and mint, this gin Small’s American Dry Gin (USA; Ransom Spir- intrigues with offbeat caraway, coriander and hot 87 its, Sheridan, OR). The aroma is distinctly pepper. sweet, front-loaded with anise and caraway notes, abv: 40% Price: $26 lending an almost absinthe-like presence. That leads into a lightly lemony flavor profile, accented Sipsmith London Dry Gin (England; Wilson by licorice and a curious, fleeting touch of rasp- 90 Daniels, St Helena, CA). For full review see berry—it turns out, raspberry is added to the final page 14. distillation. Mix this into fruity cocktails. abv: 41.6% Price: $40 abv: 43% Price: $30 SW4 London Dry Gin (England; Luxe Vin- Dover Strait American Gin Extra Dry (USA; 90 tages, Boca Raton, FL). For full review see 86 Fairmont Ltd. Mira Loma, CA). It’s so re- page 14. strained and subtle, some people might find it dif- abv: 40% Price: $30 ficult to distinguish from neutral vodka. But a faint,

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lamette). It pours a bright, clear light-gold color, with a fluffy white head that leaves nice lacing behind. The aro- mas are clean and crisp, with faint suggestions of fresh grain, grassy hops and lightly toasted biscuit that carry through to the lightweight palate. A subtle pleasing BEER bitterness is all that remains on the lingering finish. American lagers for Independence Day abv: 7% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack ertain things come to mind when thinking top-fermenting yeast while lagers are brewed Full Sail Session Fest Premium Red Lager about July: warm days spent lazily on the with bottom-fermenting yeast. Lager yeasts 89 (American Amber/Red Lager; Full Sail Brewing Company, OR). Full Sail’s Session beers come ready for beach, barbecues with friends and family, are inherently more fragile than ale yeasts, summer fun, thanks to their accessible profiles and wonderfully ornate displays of fireworks with a lower alcohol tolerance, and undergo cute, stubby bottles. A clear, brown-amber color, this and,C of course, baseball. The common denomi- fermentation at lower temperatures. This selection boasts a solid caramel-malt core, with sup- nator that’s found at all of these leads to a slower, longer fer- porting notes of citrus, toasted grain, grassy hops and fantastic locales, bringing joy mentation and storage period just a touch of pine. It’s medium bodied and smooth, with high carbonation and a long, clean finish that and refreshment to adults of all While American (hence the name lager, from ­offers a subtle toffee aftertaste. ages? Beer, of course! lagers can range in the German lagern, meaning abv: 6.2% Price: $13/11 oz 12 pack And there’s no better style to style... they are “to store”). enjoy during the month’s fes- always crisp and The results include fewer Uinta Crooked Line Tilted Smile Imperial Pilsner tivities than a brisk American-­ esters and aromas than found 89 (American Double/Imperial Pilsner; Uinta Brew- ing, UT). This is a big and bold brew, but well balanced, made lager. While American refreshing. in ales, greater clarity, and a with medium carbonation that keeps the finish fresh. lagers can range in style from full-bodied beer with a mellow The bouquet is bready and hoppy, with notes of grass, German Pilsener influence to palate that’s crisper in charac- grapefruit peel and sweet grain. The high alcohol lends more robust Vienna or Amber lagers, they are ter and less fruity. a roundness to the palate, resulting in a slightly viscous always crisp and refreshing. So here’s to our independence, and the mouthfeel and a slick texture. The flavors echo the notes found on the nose, coupled with a pleasing bit- What makes lagers such an excellent choice freedom to brew and drink limitless styles of terness that stays through the medium-length finish. for warm weather as opposed to ales? The American-made beer. abv: 9% Price: $9/750 ml main difference is that ales are brewed with Prost! —Lauren Buzzeo Full Sail Session Premium Black Dark Lager 88 (Schwarzbier; Full Sail Brewing Company, OR). Here’s an easy-drinking yet wonderfully tasty black lager, with attractive aromas and flavors of choco- Hops & Grain The One They Call Zoe A Pale Lager Smuttynose Vunderbar! Pilsner (German-style late bread, banana and lightly toasted caramel malt. 91 (American Pale Lager; Hops and Grain Brewery, 90 Pilsener; Smuttynose Brewing Company NH). ­Despite the rich aromas, the palate is light and crisp, TX). Don’t let the can (or playful name) fool you: this This accessible, flavorful lager is incredibly session- with high carbonation and only faint suggestions of is a delicious lager that boasts balance, harmony and able. Brewed with German malt and Czech Saaz hops, chocolate-covered raisin and roasted malt. The finish character. Brewed with German malts and Oregon it pours a light straw color, with a light off-white head. ends long and dry, with notes of cocoa and char. hops, and dry hopped after fermentation, this boasts The noble hop aromas are prominent at first, with abv: 5.4% Price: $13/11 oz 12 pack lively aromas and flavors of clean, pale malt, lemon scents of fresh-cut grass, mint and white pepper, but zest, fresh grass and subtle floral esters. The texture are supported by notes of fresh bread, biscuit and lem- Full Sail Session Premium Lager (American is smooth and crisp, complemented by medium car- on. Medium-bodied and well balanced, it boasts lively 88 Pale Lager; Full Sail Brewing Company, OR). bonation and a lightly bitter, hop-fueled finish that’s effervescence and a lightly bitter, earthy hop flavor on This pours a brilliant light golden-yellow color in the tasty and refreshing. A very sessionable selection that’s the crisp finish. glass, and opens with crisp aromas of fresh grass, soft- perfect for outdoors. abv: 5.2% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack ly toasted grains and mild citrusy hops that continue abv: 5.2% Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack through the clean, brisk palate. The malty backbone Trumer Pils (German-style Pilsner; Trumer provides weight, but high carbonation keeps the beer Full Sail 26 Cascade Pilsner (German-style 90 Brauerei Berkeley, CA). This is a clean, clas- light and refreshing. An easy-drinking, sessionable 90 Pilsener; Full Sail Brewing Company, OR). Full sic pilsner, originating in Germany but now brewed in ­selection. Sail’s 26th anniversary brew is a Northwest take on California, still in accordance with the Reinheitsgebot, abv: 5.1% Price: $13/11 oz 12 pack a European classic. It pours a beautiful bright-gold or German beer purity law. It pours a brilliant gold- color, with a chunky white head that boasts excellent en-straw color, with a bouquet that offers clean and Full Sail Brewer’s Share Big Daddy J’s Imperial retention and leaves serious lacing behind with each precise aromas of grass, dried hops, orange and grain. 87 Lager (American Double/Imperial Pilsner; Full sip. The hop-derived aromas of citrus and pine are for- The high carbonation and light body make this an easy- Sail Brewing Company, OR). This pours a golden-orange ward and intense, with supporting notes of pale malt drinking and refreshing selection, with final glimmers color, with a thin head and intensely heady aromas of and cereal grain. The mouthfeel is medium-bodied but of pepper and hoppy bitterness on the clean finish. caramel malt, orange oil, sweet grass and pressed yel- full of flavor, with high carbonation and a harmonious abv: 4.9% Price: $9/12 oz 6 pack low flower. Smooth and creamy, the strong sweet-malt balance between the crisp lager core and the sticky hop core takes center stage over secondary accents of pep- characteristics. Herbal tones of meadow, yellow flower Full Sail LTD Lager Series Pale Bock Recipe Num- per and grapefruit rind. Lifting carbonation keeps the and soft pepper grace the finish. 89 ber 04 (Maibock/Helles Bock; Full Sail Brewing palate from feeling too heavy or cloying, and a soft, abv: 6% Price: $4/22 oz Company, OR). An interesting concept, this pale bock piny accent adds depth to the finish. is brewed with one malt and a single hop variety (Wil- abv: 8% Price: $5/22 oz

82 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014