BUYINGGUIDE JULY 2014 Grapevines and lavender in Provence MARC LOBJOY/ALAMY MARC IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE 2 PROVENCE 36 OTHER EUROPE 48 CALIFORNIA 19 ALSACE 36 ISRAEL 60 WASHINGTON 21 SPAIN 37 LEBANON 69 VIRGINIA 28 SOUTHERN ITALY 37 TURKEY 71 NEW YORK 32 SICILY & SARDINIA 38 SOUTH AFRICA 78 OTHER NORTH AMERICA 34 SLOVENIA 41 NEW ZEALAND 80 SPIRITS 35 CROATIA 44 ARGENTINA 82 BEER FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM WINEMAG.COM | 1 BUYINGGUIDE Château Vignelaure 2013 La Source Rosé (Co- teaux d’Aix-en-Provence). For full review see 91 page 12. Best Buy. abv: 13% Price: $15 PROVENCE Château de Calavon 2013 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). A rich wine, it adds a Time to think pink. 90 finely textured dimension to the red fruitiness and fresh acidity. With complex fruits, structure as well t’s been a great year for Provence rosé. The tant with Provence rosé, it’s the look as well. as the attractive crispness, it’s a dry wine, best producers in the sunny south of France Surprisingly versatile, these rosés can be drunk with food. Weygandt-Metzler. —R.V. want us all to know that, just in case the bad drunk as an apéritif (and there are plenty with abv: 12.5% Price: $25 stories coming out of Bordeaux about 2013 only 12.5% alcohol) or they can go with an im- Iare spoiling the party. pressive array of food. The French believe that Domaine de Valdition 2013 Vallon des Anges Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). And Provence rosé is the party drink for a rosé can go with any food, but in fact they are 90 The wine comes from the Alpilles mountains, made summer. It’s become the go-to rosé wine, with best with seafood—like lobster and fish—pork famous by Van Gogh’s paintings. It has a tight, sales in the U.S. rocketing. In or chicken. steely character that comes from the wild terroir fact, outside France, we are the For your summer pleasure, while keeping delicious freshness and acidity. It number one consumer of these Provence rosé is I did a comprehensive tasting could age until late 2014. Roche-Mère Wine Selec- tions. Best Buy. —R.V. lightly colored, so fresh and of the latest Provence rosé re- the party drink for abv: 13.5% Price: $15 fruity, bone-dry rosés. Many summer. It’s leases for this month’s Buying people buy rosés based on their Guide, the majority from 2013, Commanderie de la Bargemone 2013 Rosé become the go- (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). This wine has color, and these wines, with with more than 30 selections 89 their pale salmon hue, are unde- to rosé wine, with that earned 90 points or more. the lightest of rosé colors, so fresh and light and fruity. With crisp acidity, raspberry and red cur- niably attractive. Although Provence takes sales in the U.S. rants, it just dances on the palate. Hand Picked Se- There are more selections rocketing. center stage in this issue’s Buy- lections. —R.V. available in the U.S. than ever ing Guide, we also review plenty abv: 12.5% Price: $19 before. Producers are making of other selections that are per- special cuvées for their importers, or making fect for summer, like stunning Southern Ital- Gassier 2013 Château Beaulieu Rosé (Co- teaux d’Aix-en-Provence). From the large second wines, or launching prestige cuvées, and ian whites and New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, 88 Beaulieu estate near Aix-en-Provence, this wine they are even bottling them in a wide array of among others. And, as always, be sure to check shows great fruitiness as well as a mineral texture bottles. There are square bottles (think gin bot- out our complete database, with thousands and good depth. Ripe raspberry and red currant tles), fat and round bottles, bottles shaped like more reviews, at buyingguide.winemag.com. fruits are laced with acidity. It’s very much a food amphoras, even a few classic Provence skittle Cheers! rosé. Opici Wines. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 bottles. So it’s not just the taste that’s impor- —Roger Voss Domaine d’Eole 2013 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en- Provence). Strong caramel aromas lead to a 87 wine that is rich, vanilla-flavored with some attrac- tive ripe strawberry flavors. It’s soft and full in the The wine needs food to be at its best. Winebow. mouth, revealing its acidity only at the end. Vinergie ROSÉS —R.V. Vins de France. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22 abv: 12.5% Price: $20 BANDOL Ravoire et Fils 2013 Le Pont Rosé (Bandol). Les Quatre Tours 2013 Classique Rosé (Co- Domaines Ott 2013 Château Romassan Rosé The wine is aromatic and fresh, although its teaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Properly light 84 87 (Bandol). The palest of rosés is also a seri- herbal character doesn’t quite fit with the rest of in color, this is crisp, fruity and deliciously fresh. 92 ous wine. It has a firm and mineral character that this crisp and fruity wine. It may improve, but at Some weight comes from ripe strawberry fruits as goes along with ripe red fruits and a tight texture. the moment it is not balanced or together. Saranty well as touches of vanilla. The acidity at the end It needs to age for a few months and is really meant Imports. —R.V. brings refreshment. VOS Selections. —R.V. to go with food. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. abv: 13% Price: $NA abv: 13% Price: $16 —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45 Château Pigoudet 2013 Pigoudet Première Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). A ripe COTEAUX D’AIX-EN-PROVENCE 86 Les Vignobles Gueissard 2013 Cuvée G Rosé and rounded wine, it has rich red currants and ber- (Bandol). A crisp, very textured wine that Château Vignelaure 2013 Rosé (Coteaux ries. It conveys some weight and a full-bodied feel 90 has red fruits and a salty edge from the closeness of d’Aix-en-Provence). For full review see page that is balanced by the fresh acidity. Very clean and 92 the vines to the sea. It has a mineral texture, grape- 6. Editors’ Choice. fruit and raspberry flavors, intense and bone dry. abv: 13% Price: $23 Continued on Page 14 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | JULY 2014 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen, Contributing Taster Andrew Hoover and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Cali- fornia Editor Steve Heimoff and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone Mark Ryan 2011 Lonely Heart Cabernet Sau- Mark Ryan 2011 Wild Eyed Syrah (Red Moun- in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean vignon (Red Mountain). This bottling is tain). Force Majeure and Ciel du Cheval are Sullivan in Washington. 96 95 If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s ini- quintessential Red Mountain in style, with potent the sources for this pure, compelling Red Mountain tials appear following the note. When no initials appear follow- aromatics of concentrated black fruits, gun metal Syrah. The complex aromatics shoot up a smor- ing a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more review- ers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters. and rock. Sourced from Ciel du Cheval, Obelisco, gasbord of cured meat, truffle and umami notes, Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits Reviews are by Kara Newman Force Majeure and Klipsun, it’s a one-wine show- leading into a crisp, racy palate with lovely blue- and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo. case for the AVA. The spectrum of fruit flavors is berry-dominated fruit flavors. Aging in 500-liter Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the impressive, compact and deep, and despite the high puncheons smoothes it out while contributing just submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot alcohol it retains its precision and detail. Cellar Se- a hint of new toast. Cellar Selection. —P.G. be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for lection. —P.G. abv: 14.9% Price: $48 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. abv: 15.1% Price: $85 TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind un- less otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustom- ary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. Classic 98–100: The pinnacle of quality. Superb 94–97: A great achievement. Excellent 90–93: Highly recommended. Very Good 87–89: Often good value; well recommended. Good 83–86: Suitable for everyday consumption; Oakville East 2010 Core Stone (Oakville). often good value. Coomber Family Ranch 2010 Private Reserve Based on Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Acceptable 80–82: Can be employed in casual, less- 95 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford).