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Home , Aberdaron, Caernarfon Castle, Cwm Gwaun, Harlech, Harlech Castle, Laugharne

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Wales

Anglesey & the North Coast (p265) & the Llŷn (p219)

Aberystwyth & Mid- (p185)

St Davids & , & (p147) Beacons & (p120) Southeast Wales (p76)

Cardiff #_ (p44)

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Peter Dragicevich Hugh McNaughtan PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Wales . . . . . 4 ...... 44 (Y Gŵyr)...... 130 Wales Map...... 6 Vale of . . . . 73 Parkmill & Around. . . . . 130 Penarth ...... 73 Wales’ Top 16...... 8 ...... 131 Barry (Y Barri) ...... 75 Need to Know...... 16 Rhossili ...... 133 Llangennith...... 134 If You Like…...... 18 BRECON BEACONS Reynoldston ...... 135 Month by Month...... 21 & SOUTHEAST WALES...... 76 Llanmadoc...... 135 Itineraries ...... 24 Carmarthenshire Newport (Casnewydd). . . 77 (Sir Gaerfyrddin). . . . 139 Outdoor Activities. . . . 32 (Caerllion) . . . 81 ...... 139 Travel with Children. . . . 39 Monmouthshire (Talacharn). . . 139 (Sir Fynwy) ...... 84 Regions at a Glance. . . .. 41 Chepstow (Cas-gwent). . . . 84 (Caerfyrddin) ...... 141 Lower Wye Valley...... 87 Llanarthne...... 142 Monmouth (Trefynwy). . . 88 ...... 143 Skenfrith (Ynysgynwraidd) ...... 91 (Llanymddyfri)...... 144 Abergavenny (Y Fenni). . . 91 ...... 145 JOE DANIEL PRICE / GETTY IMAGES © Brecon Beacons National Park ...... 95 & Around...... 145 Black Mountains (Y Mynyddoedd Duon) . . . . 95 ST DAVIDS & Hay-on-Wye (Y Gelli Gandryll)...... 98 PEMBROKESHIRE. . . 147 ...... 102 South Pembrokeshire. . . 150 Brecon (Aberhonddu). . . 103 ...... 150 ...... 107 (Dinbych Y Pysgod). . . . 152 Talybont-on-Usk...... 109 Stackpole (Stagbwll). . . . 156 Llangorse ...... 109 CARDIFF MARKET P68 Angle ...... 158 (Crughywel). . . 110 Pembroke (Penfro) . . . . 159 Fforest Fawr & Black Mountain ...... 111 Narberth (Arberth). . . . 164

MARTYN FERRY / GETTY IMAGES © Valleys. . . . 114 (Hwlffordd)...... 165 Merthyr Tydfil (Merthyr Tudful)...... 115 , & Islands. . . . . 167 Blaenavon (Blaenafon). . . 116 Little & Broad Havens. . . 167 Caerphilly (Caerffili). . . . 118 Newgale (Niwgwl) . . . . . 168 SWANSEA, GOWER North Pembrokeshire. . . 169 & CARMARTHEN- (Solfach)...... 169 SHIRE...... 120 St Davids (Tyddewi). . . . 170 Swansea (Abertawe). . . . 121 & Around. . . . 175 (Abergwaun). . . 177 WATERFALL, FFOREST The Mumbles FAWR P111 (Y Mwmbwls)...... 129 Cwm Gwaun ...... 180 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Newport (Trefdraeth) . . . . 180 ...... 236 Wales Today...... 300 (Abermaw). . . . 237 History...... 302 (Llandudoch) ...... 183 ...... 238 Culture...... 311 Penmachno...... 241 Betws-y-Coed...... 241 Food & Drink...... 318 & MID-WALES. . . . 185 Capel Curig...... 245 The Natural Ceredigion...... 188 ...... 246 Environment...... 321 Cardigan (Aberteifi). . . . 188 Snowdon (Yr Wyddfa). . . . 249 Aberaeron...... 191 ...... 251 Aberystwyth...... 192 Llŷn Peninsula . . . . . 253 ...... 198 ...... 254 ...... 198 ...... 257 ...... 201 ...... 258 ...... 259 (Rhaeadr Gwy)...... 203 ...... 261 Elan Valley...... 204 SURVIVAL Wells (Ynys Enlli) ...... 262 (Llanwrtyd)...... 205 GUIDE Morfa ...... 263 (Llanfair-Ym-Muallt). . . .. 206 ...... 263 Directory A–Z...... 326 Nant Gwrtheyrn...... 264 (Llandrindod)...... 207 Transport...... 333 & THE Language...... 340 (Llanandras)...... 209 NORTH COAST. . . . 265 Newtown Index...... 346 (Y Drenewydd)...... 212 The North Coast. . . . . 268 ...... 268 Montgomery...... 216 Bangor...... 272 ...... 217 Bodnant Estate...... 275 (Y Trallwng). . . 217 ...... 276 SNOWDONIA Junction. . . .. 280 & THE LLŶN. . . . . 219 Llandudno...... 281 Isle of Anglesey Borderlands...... 222 (Ynys Môn) ...... 286 Holywell (Treffynnon). . . . 222 Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgo- SPECIAL gerychwyrndrobwllllanty- Llangollen ...... 223 siliogogogoch FEATURES Snowdonia National Park (Llanfair PG)...... 287 Wales’ Top 16...... 8 (Parc Cenedlaethol Menai Bridge...... 287 Itineraries...... 24 Eryri) ...... 230 (Biwmares). . . 291 Bala (Y Bala)...... 230 ...... 293 Outdoor Activities. . . . 32 Coed y Brenin Forest Park ...... 232 Church Bay Food & Drink...... 318 (Porth Swtan)...... 294 ...... 232 The Natural Holyhead (Caergybi). . . . 294 Cader Idris Environment...... 321 (Cadair Idris)...... 235 Rhosneigr ...... 298 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 24 LUIS DAVILLA / GETTY IMAGES ©

Plan Your Trip Itineraries

É Llandudno Beaumaris #• Rhosneigr #• #• #• É Conwy Plas Newydd #• É É É #• #• Caernarfon #•Betws- y-Coed Llanberis É

É É #• Blaenau

Porthmadog #• #• Llangollen É #• É #• #• Harlech

Aberdaron É #• Dolgellau

É #• Welshpool Machynlleth #•

I R I S H É É S E A Aberystwyth #•

WALES ENGLAND É

É Llanwrtyd Newport #• Wells Llandovery #• #•Hay-on-Wye É #• Brecon É

Llandeilo É #• St Davids #• É #• Crickhowell #• #• #•

Carreg Abergavenny É #• É Blaenavon Cennen É

#• Tenby #• Tintern Abbey

É É É #• #• Rhossili Bay#• Swansea #• Caerphilly Chepstow #_ CARDIFF

3 WEEKS Full Welsh Circuit

Head west to the seaside resort town of This itinerary has been designed Tenby, within Pembrokeshire Coast Na- for travellers who have the time and tional Park, before continuing on to the an- inclination to pack as much of Wales as cient city of St Davids. Head up the coast possible into one big loop. to Newport for a day at the beach and a night of good food. Stop at Pentre Ifan and Start at Cardiff and head north to see the Castell Henllys on the long, leisurely drive -tale at Caerphilly, before cut- up the coast to studenty Aberystwyth. ting west to . Head out along the Swansea Continue on through ecofriendly Mach- Gower Peninsula to spectacular Rhossili ynlleth and historic Dolgellau to Har- , and then continue north to remote Bay lech and its World Heritage castle. Spend Carreg Cennen in Brecon Beacons Na- half a day exploring the surreal Italianate tional Park. Base yourself in for Llandeilo village of Portmeirion before continuing a day of gardens and manor houses. on to nearby Porthmadog. From here you can take a steam train ride on the 25 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es

Caernarfon Castle (p268) narrow-gauge to Blae- turning south to forest-dwelling Betws-y- nau Ffestiniog and stop to tour the slate Coed. Head to genteel Llangollen, stop caverns. Head along the Llŷn Peninsula to at fascinating in Welshpool, Aberdaron for surf-battered views over then continue down through Powys to Bardsey Island from Braich-y-Pwll. kooky and on to the market town of Llandovery. Head east to Follow the coast to Caernarfon, and Brecon, which is a good base for tackling then continue on to Llanberis, where you Pen-y-Fan, and then pop up to famously can visit the National Slate Museum and book-obsessed . Cut down base yourself to tackle Snowdon. Double Hay-on-Wye through to food-focused back to the and cross over to Crickhowell Abergavenny. Visit Blaenavon, then Anglesey to visit Beaumaris, Rhosneigr skirt Monmouth and follow the peaceful and Plas Newydd. Wye Valley to Tintern Abbey and on to Proceed along the north coast to walled the border town of Chepstow. Conwy and beachy Llandudno before 26 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es

Llandudno #• É #• Conwy Caernarfon #• Llanberis #•

IRELAND É

Machynlleth #• I R I S H É S E A Aberystwyth #• WALES ENGLAND

É

É #•Hay-on-Wye

É St Davids #• É Carreg Crickhowell #•Cennen #•

#• É É É Abergavenny

#•Tenby Swansea #• É #•Chepstow

É #_ CARDIFF 27 JOHNNYGREIG /GETTY IMAGES © 2 WEEKS The Best Bits

This short itinerary covers the very best TRIP YOUR PLAN of what Wales has to offer at a breakneck pace. It includes the two major cities, all three of the national parks and some of the best small towns, beaches, mountains and .

Start in Hay-on-Wye, a pretty little town with It

a book fetish, and then cut through Brecon i nerar Beacons National Park to the pretty village of Crickhowell and the neighbouring market

town of Abergavenny. i es The following day head east to Monmouth and trace the Wye Valley down past Tintern Abbey to castle-dominated Chepstow, then continue on to Cardiff. Base yourself in the Welsh capital for a couple of days before blasting along the M4 motorway to Swansea. Use Wales’ second city as a base to explore the Gower Peninsula. Take a detour to visit the remote ruins of Carreg Cennen before continuing on to Tenby and St Davids. Continue up the coast to Aberystwyth and then inland to Machynlleth. Head through the heart of Snowdonia National Park to Dolgellau EMMAMANNERS /SHUTTERSTOCK © and onto Llanberis to get better acquainted with Snowdon, Wales’ highest peak. Explore the castle towns of Caernarfon and Conwy before washing up on the Victorian seaside promenade of Llandudno.

Top: Rhossili Bay (p133) Bottom: Mad Hatter statue, Llandudno (p281)

) ) 91 152 Top: Tenby (p Bottom: Fine dining in Abergavenny (p

ALBERTPEGO / GETTY IMAGES © HUW JONES / GETTY IMAGES ©

- - -

- -

, a . Fish and its and the , a small Pembroke , so cut south Swansea St Davids , home to, home some Chepstow before proceed before Crickhowell Cardiff , Merlin’s town., Merlin’s , with its fine Geor Blaenavon Llandeilo Haverfordwest to beguiling Abergavenny , follow the Valley lush Teifi Llandovery Carmarthen Solva Gower PeninsulaGower , where and sites South Wales Circuit Wales South Cardigan . The Beacons spread south from here, , Wales’ most appealing resorttown and on your on way to food- and beach-loving

From

9 9 DAYS past romantic Tintern Abbey, to Backtrack towards Wales’of best country restaurants and gastro pubs. Finish with a saunter down the Wye Valley, iron-smelting history its on sleeve, and has been inscribed Heritage the on World list as a result. Usk andUsk cut down towards town that wears the legacy its of coal-mining and riding and canal trips. Peaceful is another good walking base. Cross the River Brecon offering ample opportunities walking, for horse gian buildings, and then skirt the northern edge Breconof Beacons National Park your on way to Carmarthenshire countryside. Head to on the market town of towards Carmarthen before heading east. Do your first, homework as there are gardens, manor houses and castles to explore in this part the of len Museum.len The Cambrian Mountains stand between here and lovely along the border Ceredigion, of stopping at the cute village of and the National Wool await discovery in the surrounding hills. guard Newport pretty port of sweet little city in a magical setting. Visit Park. Check out the mighty castle at and head through on Tenby the gateway to Pembrokeshire Coast National ing to ancient Settle in to the seaside vibe at candy-striped for a Dylanfor Thomas fix. Spend a day the on beach-lined Start by thoroughly exploring surrounds before heading west to course), as well as hiking in the Brecon as hiking in the Brecon as well course), Beacons. beach days on the Gower Peninsula and Peninsula on the Gower days beach of dependent, (weather Pembrokeshire off many of the icons of Wales. Make sure sure Make Wales. of the icons of many off and lazy walks coastal time for allow you Magician, this South Welsh circuit ticks ticks circuit Welsh this South Magician, industrial sites, and cities associated with associated and cities sites, industrial and Merlin the St David Thomas, Taking in the capital, two national parks, national parks, two in the capital, Taking beaches, beautiful many castles, numerous

Itineraries

PLAN YOUR TRIP 28 29 PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries y n #• n D e w N v o t A a s g l

r É p l GL e e e N b h E w A C o h n #• k o c i v #• F r a

É F C n I #• e D a #_ l n o É B AR c e C r B

#• É y r

É e v S o E d L n A a a l W o e #• L l i s e n

d a É n w a l S #• #• L L L

É

E

O É N T n N S e I #• A h r R t a l H r e B N u a C w #• s A o m n i r G G Y n n

É a I a e A C g D P i

B É d R y r b A t a s n C C t e e r #• T w o d p

r #• É w o

f

e É r N #• e v

a É

H e #•

d É k #• r #• o

a

r

É

a u É b v g l m h o s e i S P F #• t #• s S d i v a D 30 PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es

É É Llandudno #• Conwy

#• Beaumaris É #• #• É Bangor

É Caernarfon #• #• Llanberis Ruthin Betws- #• É #•

É y-Coed É

#•

Beddgelert É I R I S H S E A É Porthmadog #•Llangollen É #•

É #• Harlech WALES #• #• Abersoch Aberdaron É É #• #• Dolgellau Barmouth Welshpool

É #• ENGLAND C A R D I G A N #•

Machynlleth É B AY É #• Newtown

Aberystwyth #• É É #• Devil's Bridge 31 JON666 /GETTY IMAGES © 10 DAYS North & Mid-Wales

The scenic highlights of North and Mid- TRIP YOUR PLAN Wales include river valleys, spectacular mountains and a widely varied coastline. This itinerary cuts a broad arc through the Welsh-speaking heartland, taking in still more castles, industrial sites and beaches – these things are Welsh clichés for a reason. It

Start in historic Ruthin and take the beauti- i nerar ful back road that cuts through the bottom of the Clwydian Range to Llangollen, a small

riverside town famous for outdoor pursuits and i es its World Heritage–listed canal and aqueduct. From here head west on the A5, swapping Den- bighshire for the eastern reaches of Snowdonia National Park. Betws-y-Coed makes a pretty base for forest and river walks, and mountain biking. Put Snowdonia behind you for a few days as you head north on the A470, shadowing the Riv- er Conwy. Stop along the way at Bodnant Estate before heading north to the old-fashioned beach resort town of Llandudno. Hop down to Con- wy to immerse yourself in the medieval world between its town walls and tick off castle num- ber one of the ‘Castles of Edward I in ’ World Heritage Site. The A55 hugs the coast as it heads southwest towards Bangor. Stop for a DAVID WILLIAMS /GETTY IMAGES © quick look at the pier and the cathedral before crossing the Menai Strait to the Isle of Anglesey. Base yourself at Beaumaris (where you’ll find castle number two) and circle the sacred island of the druids. Cross the Menai Strait again and head to Llanberis, where you can plan your assault on Snowdon, either on foot or by train. Circle the mighty mountain, stopping at Beddgelert, before heading back to the coast at - narfon for castle number three. Circle the remote Llŷn Peninsula, stopping at the beaches and pubs of Aberdaron and Abersoch. Con- tinue through Porthmadog, Harlech (castle number four) and beachy Barmouth before following the Mawddach to stony faced, heritage-filled Dolgellau. Head south to visit the greenies at Machynlleth before rejoining the coast at the buzzy student town of Aber- ystwyth. Stop at the Devil’s Bridge waterfalls Top: Beach at Barmouth (p237) and the gallery at Newtown, before finishing Bottom: (p224), Llangollen at Welshpool with a visit to sumptuous Powis Castle. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 351

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Cafe /Railway Park/Forest Tram Entertainment Tube station Sight (Building) Entertainment U-Bahn/Underground station Sportsground Other Transport Shopping Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Peter Dragicevich Cardiff; Brecon Beacons & Southeast Wales; Swansea, the Gower & Car- marthenshire; St Davids & Pembrokeshire; Plan Your Trip; Understand Wales; Survival Guide After a successful career in niche newspaper and magazine publishing, both in his native New Zealand and in Australia, Peter finally gave into Kiwi wanderlust, giving up staff jobs to chase his diverse roots around much of Europe. Over the last decade he’s written literally dozens of guidebooks for Lonely Planet on an oddly disparate collection of countries, all of which he’s come to love. He once again calls Auckland, New Zealand his home – although his current nomadic existence means he’s hardly ever there.

Hugh McNaughtan Aberystwyth & mid-Wales; Snowdonia & the Llŷn; Angelsey & the North Coast A former English lecturer, Hugh swapped grant applications for visa appli- cations, and turned his love of travel into a full-time thing. A long-time castle tragic with an abiding love of Britain’s Celtic extremities, he jumped at the chance to explore Wales, from the Cambrian Mountains to the tip of Anglesey. He’s never happier than when he’s on the road with his two daughters. Except perhaps on the cricket field...

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 6th edition – Apr 2017 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 330 8 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2017 Photographs © as indicated 2017 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’