Welsh Sea Kayaking Welsh

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Andy Biggs & Andy Biggs Jim Krawiecki fifty great sea kayak voyages fifty sea kayak great Welsh Sea Kayaking Welsh

Welsh Sea Kayaking Jim Krawiecki & Andy Biggs

fifty great sea kayak voyages fifty kayak sea great From the Dee Estuary to the Bristol Channel, the Welsh EstuaryDee the From Welsh Bristolthe to the Channel, coastline in all its varied guises provides a fantastic Thesefifty select journeys playgroundfor kayaker. the sea cover all parts of the interesting and provide of the coast testing offshore trips paddles, easy sheltered for the and everythingadventurous in between. Illustrated with superb and useful maps colour photographs select practicalis a this book you help guide to throughout, voyages for inspiration It will future provide and plan trips. of journeysand a souvenir undertaken. where essential information on as providing As well tidal times and distances, startto finish, and to stimulate does much book the information, in the environment and inform interest our It is full and of facts passing through. are we scenery, geology, anecdotes about local history, and sea mammals. seabirds

Front Cover - View from Porth Dinllaen - View from Front Cover Lighthouse - Skerries Back Cover Welsh Sea Kayaking Welsh 15

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50 Welsh Sea Kayaking fifty great sea kayak voyages

Jim Krawiecki & Andy Biggs

Pesda Press www.pesdapress.com First published in Great Britain 2006 by Pesda Press Reprinted with minor updates 2009 Reprinted 2013

Tan y Coed Canol Ceunant Caernarfon Gwynedd LL55 4RN Wales

The Authors assert the moral right to be identified as the authors of this work.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the Publisher.

Printed in Poland. www.hussarbooks.pl Foreword

This guide has been a long time coming! Wales has a spectacular coastline with the added complication of strong tides. Rugged coastlines often make access difficult and expeditions exposed to the elements. This guide certainly goes a long way in providing essential information, making the planning of trips less stressful, and is within the reach of all. The severity of the trips often depends on wind strength and direction. Being on neap or spring tides may turn a benign expedition into a mini-epic so local knowledge of the kind that helped compile this book can be essential. The book will provide you with a lot of valuable information so if you plan to paddle our coastline it is an essential read. I only wish I had had the benefit of this guide in my early days as it would have certainly made life easier and probably safer. Jim and Andy have added stories and tales intertwined with historic facts. This makes the book more than just a guide, it is an interesting and motivational read as well. The photographs are of high quality and the book has been designed for ease of reading and referencing, to include essential information on tidal streams, launch and landing spots, places of interest, campsites and friendly hostelries. I would like to take this opportunity of congratulating the authors for all their hard work. I can think of no better way to spend hours of research time. ‘Welsh Sea Kayaking’ will be of great benefit to sea kayakers. It is wonderful to have such enthusiastic people who are prepared to impart valuable information and experiences to fellow paddlers. Fantastic! Nigel Dennis

Dedication Foreword & Dedication This book is dedicated to the memory of Peter Hatt – initiator, and motivator of North West Sea Kayakers… ‘Hattie’ enjoyed paddling with others to discover the sounds, views and moods of the sea. I trust that this guide will encourage all its readers to share and develop those ideals and in doing so be a fitting tribute to a memorable character. Peter Roscoe

3 Contents

Foreword and Dedication ...... 3 Coastal Access in Wales ...... 6 Important Notice ...... 7 Acknowledgements ...... 7 How to Use the Guide ...... 8 About the Authors ...... 10 The North Coast ...... 11 1 Dee Estuary ...... 13 2 The Ormes ...... 19 3 Conwy Estuary ...... 25 Anglesey / Ynys Môn ...... 29 4 Puffin Island ...... 31 5 Menai Strait ...... 35 6 South-west Anglesey ...... 41 7 Cymyran Strait and Rhoscolyn ...... 45 8 The Stacks ...... 51 9 Irish Sea Crossing ...... 57 10 Holy Island Circumnavigation ...... 61 11 Carmel Head ...... 67 12 The Skerries ...... 71 13 Porth Wen ...... 75 14 Point Lynas ...... 81 15 Bull Bay to Isle of Man ...... 87

Contents The Lleyn Peninsula ...... 91 16 Trefor to Porth Dinllaen ...... 93 17 Porth Dinllaen to Porth Oer ...... 97 18 Bardsey Sound ...... 101 19 Bardsey Island ...... 107 20 South-west Lleyn ...... 113 21 St Tudwal’s Islands ...... 119 22 Pwllheli to Criccieth ...... 123 Cardigan Bay ...... 129 23 Dwyryd Estuary ...... 131 24 Mawddach Estuary ...... 135 25 Aberdovey to Aberystwyth ...... 139 26 Ynys-Lochtyn ...... 145 27 Mwnt ...... 151

4 Pembrokeshire ...... 155 28 Cemaes Head ...... 157 29 Dinas Head ...... 161 30 Strumble Head ...... 165 31 Penclegyr ...... 169 32 St David’s Head ...... 173 33 Ramsey Island ...... 177 34 Bishops and Clerks ...... 183 35 Green Scar ...... 187 36 St Brides Bay ...... 191 37 Stack Rocks ...... 195 38 Skomer and Skokholm ...... 199 39 St Ann’s Head ...... 205 40 Milford Haven ...... 209 41 St Govan’s Head ...... 213 42 Caldey Island ...... 217 43 Carmarthen Bay ...... 221 Gower & Bristol Channel ...... 225 44 Burry Holms ...... 227 45 Worms Head ...... 231 46 Mumbles Head ...... 235 47 Tusker Rock ...... 239 48 The Most Southerly Point ...... 243 49 Flat Holm and Steep Holm ...... 247 50 Bristol Channel ...... 253 Contents Appendices ...... 257 A Coastguard & Emergency Services ...... 257 B Weather ...... 257 C Pilots ...... 258 D Mean Tidal Ranges ...... 258 E Glossary of Welsh Language Place Names ...... 259 F Recommended Reading ...... 260 G Trip Planning Route Card - User’s Guide ...... 260 H Trip Planning Route Card ...... 263 I Index ...... 265

5 Coastal Access in Wales

Access to the outdoors in Wales is becoming increasingly encouraged and the Countryside and Rights of Way Act of 2000 brought access to many additional areas of coastal land. While engaged in sea kayaking it is rare to encounter access problems. Most of the routes described in this book start and finish at beaches or small harbours where public access to the foreshore is already established. Areas of the coast between the high and low water mark are often described as ‘foreshore’, and most of this is owned by the Crown Estate. Neither the Crown Estate nor any other owners normally restrict access to the foreshore. Access on the sea is restricted only in rare and extreme cases and information is given by the coastguard during regular maritime safety information broadcasts. Access is frequently restricted in the vicinity of artillery firing ranges. These areas are often patrolled by staff from the Ministry of Defence. Further information and firing times can always be obtained from the coastguard. At the busy ports of Holyhead and Milford Haven permission should be sought from the relevant authority, either by VHF or mobile phone, before entering or crossing harbour entrances. The coasts of Anglesey, the Lleyn Peninsula and Pembrokeshire have greatly improved public access due to the development of coastal footpaths. At the time of writing discussions are taking place between the Countryside Council for Wales, Welsh Canoeing Association and other key recreation and conservation bodies. Plans are being drawn up for an unbroken Wales Coast Path, along with other ways to open up our coastal land to the general public. Respect the Interests of Other People

Acting with courtesy, consideration and awareness is very important. If you are exercising access rights make sure you respect the privacy, safety and livelihoods of those living and working in the outdoors, and the needs of people enjoying the outdoors. Care for the Environment

Sea kayakers can access remote places others cannot. Many of these places have sensitive plant, animal and bird life. Be aware of, and respect landing restrictions around nature reserves. Look after the places you visit and enjoy and leave the land as you find it. Take responsibility for your own actions. Remember that the outdoors cannot be made risk free and that you should act with care at all times for your own safety and that of others. Wild Camping

Access & Enviroment This guide provides information on many ‘paddler friendly’ commercial campsites. However, wild camping provides a special experience and forms an integral part of sea touring. There is no right to camp on the Welsh coast, and areas that lend themselves to wild camping for sea kayakers in Wales are few and far between. If you do decide to add a wild camp to your journey plan, be sure to choose a remote location away from dwellings, roads and paths. Always arrive late in the day and do not pitch your tent until dusk. You should take your tent down early the following morning. “Leave nothing but footprints and take nothing but photographs”.

Further information on access to coastal areas can be found from the Countryside Council for Wales at www.ccw.gov.uk

6 Important Notice

As with many outdoor activities that take place in remote and potentially hostile environments, technical ability, understanding of the environment and good planning are essential. The sea is one of the most committing environments of all, and with this considered it should be treated with the constant respect that it deserves. This guide is designed to provide information that will inspire the sea kayaker to venture into this amazing environment, however it cannot provide the essential ingredients of ability, environmental awareness and good planning. Before venturing out on any of the trips described in this book ensure that your knowledge and ability are appropriate to the seriousness of the trip. If you are unsure, then look for appropriate advice before embarking on the trips described. The book is purely a guide to provide information about the sea kayaking trips. For the additional essential knowledge of safety at sea, personal paddling, environmental considerations and tidal planning the authors recommend gaining the appropriate training from experienced and qualified individuals. Warning

Sea kayaking is inherently a potentially dangerous sport, and with this considered, users of this guide should take the appropriate precautions before undertaking any of the trips. The information supplied in this book has been well researched, however the authors can take no responsibility if tidal times differ or information supplied is not sufficient. Conditions can change quickly and dramatically on the sea and there is no substitute for personal experience and judgment when kayaking or during the planning stages of a sea trip. The guide is no substitute for personal ability, personal risk assessment and good judgement. The decision on whether to go out sea kayaking or not, and any consequences arising from that decision, remain yours and yours alone.

Acknowledgements

The authors would like to express their thanks to those who have contributed anecdotes and photographs which are credited throughout the book. Two people who are not mentioned by name are David Roberts and John Rowlands from pixaerial.com. Their spectacular aerial photography provides a unique perspective and we wish them all the best in their projects. Throughout the time it took to compile information, take and source photographs, and write text for this guide the authors have had the benefit of help and support from others without whom this book would not have been possible. The authors would like to acknowledge the efforts of, and extend special thanks to: Important Notice Penny Excell, Chris Krawiecki, Simon Fenton, Kirstine Pearson, Peter Roscoe and Trevor Shepherd. Their continued practical support and encouragement throughout the project has been invaluable. Finally, thanks are due to Franco Ferrero and his team at Pesda Press. Franco’s patience, and dedication to this project has been immeasurable and the team at Pesda Press have worked together to produce a publication of the highest quality that meets the aspirations of the authors. Photographs

All photos by Jim Krawiecki and Andy Biggs except where acknowledged in the captions.

7 How to Use the Guide

To use the guide all that you will need are up-to-date tide timetables of the relevant area, the appropriate Ordnance Survey map and the knowledge to use these. There is also a Trip Planning Route Card at the end of the book that can be used to help plan your chosen trip. There is a full explanation of how to use this alongside the route card. Each of the fifty trip chapters is set out into six sections:

Tidal & Route Information - This is designed as a quick reference for all the ‘must know’ information on which to plan the trip yourself.

Introduction - This is designed to give the reader a brief overview of what to expect from the trip and whet the appetite.

Description - This provides further detail on the trip including coastline information, launching/landing information, about the wildlife and environment, historical information and the views to expect.

Tide & Weather - Giving further tidal information and how best to plan the trip, taking the tides, weather and local knowledge into consideration.

Map of Route - An outline of the route’s start/finish points, landing places, points of interest and tidal information.

Additional Information - Further information that will help complete the trip, or is of interest if in the area.

Using the Tidal & Route Information

Each route begins with an overview of pertinent details beginning with the following information; Trip name; Trip number; Grade of difficulty - (Colour scheme indicated)

Grade A- Trips from 6 – 20 kilometres in distance. Relatively easy landings with escape routes available. Offering relative shelter from extreme conditions and little affected by ocean swell. Some tidal movement may be found, but easy to predict with How to Use the Guide no tidal races or overfalls. Grade B - Trips from 10 – 30 kilometres in distance. Some awkward landings and sections of coastline with no escape routes should be expected. Tidal movement, tidal races, overfalls, crossings, ocean swell and surf may be found on these trips. They will also be exposed to the weather and associated conditions. Grade C- These trips will have difficult landings and will have no escape routes for the majority of the trip. Fast tidal movement, tidal races, overfalls, extended crossings, ocean swell and surf will be found on all these trips. They will be very exposed to the weather and conditions, therefore requiring detailed planning. With this considered they will all require good conditions for the trip to be viable.

8 Distance - Total distance for the trip. OS Sheet - Number of Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Landranger map required. Tidal Port - The port for which tide timetables will be required to work out the tidal streams. Start - Symbol used on map, name and six-figure grid reference of starting point. Finish - Symbol used on map, name and six-figure grid reference of finishing point. HW/LW - The tidal time difference from the tidal port of high water and low water for the local port nearest to the trip. Tidal times - Position of tidal stream movement; followed by the direction to which the tidal stream flows and the time it starts flowing in relation to the tidal port high water. Tidal rates - The areas in which the tidal streams are fastest and the speed in knots of the average spring rate. Coastguard - Name of relevant Coastguard Station. Telephone number and the time the three- hourly weather forecast starts being announced on the VHF radio on Channel 16.

Below is an example: St Tudwal’s Islands 21 No . 21 | Grade B | 10km | OS Sheet 123 | Tidal Port Liverpool Start Abersoch Beach (314277) Finish Abersoch Beach (314277) HW/LW are around 3 hours 20 minutes before Liverpool. Tidal times The south-going stream starts around 3 hours before HW Liverpool. The north-going stream starts around 3 hours after HW Liverpool. Tidal rates Tidal streams are generally weak, less than 2 knots maximum at springs.

Coastguard Holyhead, Tel. 01407-762-051, VHF weather 0150 UT repeated every 3 hours. Islands St Tudwal’s

Map Symbols Used

- Start - Castle - Finish - Building or Built-up Area - Described Route - Possible Rough Water - Landing Place - Tidal Stream Direction - Campsite +0550 HW Liv - Time in relation to High - Lighthouse Water of Tidal Port 2.5kn Sp - Beacon - Average Spring Rate

9 About the Authors Jim Krawiecki Andy Biggs

Jim’s involvement in the outdoors and Andy has always had a strong affinity with the in particular the Welsh coastline started sea. Those who have paddled with him comment on family holidays spent at the unique on, and benefit from, his understanding and Polish ex-servicemen’s home near Pwllheli. analysis of tidal movements and anomalies, Beachcombing, investigating the sea life in rock often ensuring the most efficient and enjoyable pools and walks along the dramatic headlands trips with the tide and wind being allies rather of the Lleyn developed an interest in the than obstacles. outdoors. An introduction to canoes and kayaks Fascinated by the journeying nature of at school led Jim to join a local canoe club in sea kayaking, Andy has completed many the mid 90’s, predominately a white water club, memorable trips around the UK including as members suggested that sea kayaking was trips in Ireland, Scotland and extensively in both dangerous and boring! Undeterred and Wales. He has circumnavigated the islands of finding better-informed company through Skye and Mull and recently paddled multi- North West Sea Kayakers, a passion for the sea day trips in Alaska and New Zealand. was rekindled and encouraged. In return Jim is Andy loves remote places and has now a prominent member of that group and completed many challenging trips, either as a regularly organises meets and sea trips. solo traveller or with his long-suffering college Sea kayaking in Brittany, the Greek Isles, friend, Simon. These adventures have included Scotland and numerous excursions to Wales trekking in the Himalayas, alpine climbing, have prompted him to share his enthusiasm cycling across Iceland and also crossing for sea touring by putting pen to paper and Eastern Europe soon after the collapse of the hopefully opening up opportunities for others Eastern Bloc. to enjoy the delights of this region. Andy has been a free-lance photographer Jim is also a passionate mountaineer, which and more recently, has enjoyed inspiring in turn has led to his current employment at the students in his position as a teacher. offices of the British Mountaineering Council. About the Authors

10 An Introduction Background Reading Trefor. have buses3-6timesdaily. Mostothertowns andvillageson theLleyn end ofthetrip. andCaernarfon, between Pwllheli inat service calls also which There isanhourly your atthe makesiteasytocollect car busservice becompletedandafrequent in3or4days can around Anglesey, inthe butcampsites Trefor areaplace asafer toleave offer car.your Thejourney agreateroffers senseofwilderness. oftidesthan Thedirection interms takenislessimportant by thecircumnavigation andpopularity ofAngleseybut,in importance towns enroute, with fewer multi-dayand even trips.from The 75kmtrip classic. Trefor isatrue toPwllheli dwarfed Itisoften itoccupies. scenery andtheinspiring to appreciate wildlife islands. withoff-lying bold headlands calmnessofthewatershere The comparative makeiteasier means dissipated. descendtotheseabecome hills broad Rolling sandybeaches, slungbetween on the south side mayexperience be more relaxed, adventure for is by but the opportunity no with busroutes. thatfaraway. Civilisation all isnever there are routes, agood numberofescape andlanesleading tomainroads footpaths greet whovisittheseimpressive all shores. Despitethewildqualitiesofthiscoastline with seabirds, of a great ofbeingattheextremity sandybeachesandafeeling land, Peninsula isone ofthewildestareas covered by thisbook. Towering swarming cliffs islandof Bardsey.and across andmystical theseato holy Lleyn coastofthe The north favourable conditionsfor tocross thetreacherous watersofBardsey Sound. healing. found shelterand also replenishment atCwrt,The pilgrims by Aberdaron, whilstwaiting churches, Beuno at Pistyll, the church of St had especially which a reputation as a centre for towardscoast trail Aberdaron. Their queststo reach Bardsey Islandare documentedinlocal well theirway were alongthis ancientwilderness andsaintswhotrudged therugged, pilgrims north island, hasauniqueandinsularflavour ofits all own. theLleyn to travellers Some ofthe earliest the southofAnglesey. The word‘Peninsula’ means quiteliterally ‘almost anisland’ and, likean Lleyn The ofnorth-west Peninsula isthepart Sea, jutsoutintothe Wales which Irish justto www.rhiw.com ofthe Lleyn. awebsite heritage depictingthe cultural WaterWhite andSurf, Sea Terry Storry, Cicerone, (1985). AngleseyandAdjoining Cruising Waters, Morris, Ralph Imray, (1985). tolonger orsunsetpaddles everyone,from afternoon for short ofpaddling hasplenty Lleyn The In contrast, ofa gentler nature. trips offers Lleyn thecoastlineofsouthern The paddling tothepilgrims’run parallel chapters few The next coast,rugged north footsteps along the Lleyn PeninsulaThe Lleyn

91 The Lleyn Peninsula 92 The Lleyn Peninsula precise information. The abovecharts are intendedtogiveageneraloverview. Consulttherelevant chaptersandothersourcesfor more ebb andfloodsopleaserefer not roughlycoincidewiththe Tide streamsinthisareado Tide streamsinthisareado main ebbandfloodsorefer not coincidewiththemain to relevantchapters to relevantchapters The west-facing slopes of Yr Eifl outside a charming pubbeside thebeach. outside acharming headlands,smaller untilyou reach Porth Dinllaen, drink where you relax can witharefreshing The coastlinebeyond more themountainsbecomes gradually relaxed withpleasantbeaches and such asguillemots,such were notenough totakeyour breath away, are home tothousandsofnestingseabirds these cliffs some impressive forming cliffs. itself intotheIrish Sea slopes drop dramatically Asifthescenery A rangeofthreeYr boldpeakscalled Eifldominates thisspectacular coastalscenery. The west-facing Introduction Trefor toPorth Dinllaen Finish No. 16 Start Coastguard Tidal rates Tidal times HW/LW | GradeA fulmars during their breeding season in spring and early summer. theirbreeding andearly and fulmars during season in spring razorbills | 12km Holyhead, Tel. 01407762051,VHF0150UTrepeatedevery 3hours. The springrateformostofthissectionisnomorethan2knots. NE streamstarts4hoursafterHWLiverpool. The SWstreamstarts2hoursbeforeHWLiverpool. are around2hoursbeforeLiverpool. LonBridin,MorfaNefyn(283408),viaTy Trefor beach(376472)orAberafonCampsite(400485) | OSSheet123 | Tidal PortLiverpool ˆ Cochpublichouse(276416) 93 Trefor to Porth Dinllaen 16 16 94 Trefor to Porth Dinllaen Morfa Nefyn. toMorfa shore close Ty andmealsaswell astheexpectedalcoholicsnacks refreshment. There isnopublic road access to house is2kmtothewest across Porth Dinllaen. Ty provide somecan pleasantrockhopping fun. From Penrhyn Nefyn, thecharming the bay, totheshore, instead stay close at Penrhyn headlands asthesmall BodeilasandNefyn less steepandbeachesbecome sandy. increasingly Don’t betootempted tomakeadashacross Centre.and Heritage haunted, mining settlement. Nowadays, ishome totheNational Welsh Nant Gwrtheyrn Language the remains ofNant ofanoldpieratthefoot Gwrtheyrn, andabandoned, awooded valley even conditions. butcalm inall large pebblesmakinglandingtricky isalittle easierbeside Landing summer.early colonies; this is a good place toseeguillemots, headland, Peninsula.Lleyn The edgewestern of asteep forms intotheseaand dramatically crashes Yr Eifl of way to easier views stacks,small andinletstoexplore. caves give cliffs The coastlinesoonsouth-west turns andthe west from Trefor you find where will thereyourself beneathsomecliffs impressive several are Therecar park isalarge at Description ˆ Once round Penrhyn Glas, whitebuildingsatPorth beinsight, Dinllaen will the coastline is isPorthBetween theseheadlands yNant; made the beachhere upof issteepandmostly Coch sothere Coch toreach remains thepointwhere a1kmpaddle theroad, Bridin, Lon meetsthe Trwyn yGorlech. This andthenextheadland, Penrhyn Glas, have seabird breeding Yr Eifl, coastofthe thelargest ofthree dominate peakswhich thenorthern Trefor well sheltered. beach isgenerally andtheharbour Paddling fulmars during the late spring and and thelatespring andfulmarsduring razorbills ˆ Coch can providerange afineofhotdrinks, can Coch Ty ˆ Coch public public Coch

Gyrn Goch and Gyrn Ddu, hills to the east of Trefor - Photo: Chris Krawiecki spot from abroken heart. spot from revealing theskeleton ofMeinir, inherwedding still dress. Rhysissaidtohave diedon the oak where had they metinthepast. thetree, Lightningstruck openand splittingthetrunk out,the woods calling “Meinir, Meinir!” day Onestormy Rhystook shelterbesidetheold gave butnever uplookinghisbride. for with grief Eachday hewould wanderthorough inhervainattemptstoescape. inthehollowoakandhadtrapped perished Rhyswent insane toherdeathintothesea. andfallen tothecliffs strayed tooclose Infact Meinirhad become her.for passedlessandpeoplesearchedher. Asthedays for Itwasassumedthatshehad anywherebe found inthevillage, wasinvolved inlooking everyone days andinthefollowing she had made her own way to church, went they to see if she was there. Meinir was not to tree, metatsunset. where sheandRhysoften couldn’t Rhys’s friends findher, andassuming the groom’s entourage, ofanoldoak intothewoods sosheran andhidinthehollow trunk went toMeinir’s homeher. tocollect friends tohidefrom Itwastraditionalthebride for plans were soon madetheirwedding. for Onthebigday, Rhyswent tothechurchashis village of poverty-stricken sweetheart,Rhys andhischildhood Meinir, were children livingintheproud, orphaned but Rhys andMeinir Nant Gwrtheyrn. in love and teenagers fell they became As they 95 Trefor to Porth Dinllaen 16 16 96 Trefor to Porth Dinllaen landing can bemade besidethepierat landing can Trefor. alsoproducehere. can dumpingsurf thewest ornorth-west and swell from Ifindoubtasheltered campsite. upthebeach tothe dangerous carry water would adifficultorpossibly makefor Winds Campsite.Aberafon from midtolow This beachis made upoflarge pebblesandboulders can bedone inthe reverse;This trip care on thebeach at shouldbetakenifendingthetrip Variations minute goodies. less convenient. The petrol storegeneral for last station alsohasa atClynnog well-stocked Fawr Parsal Campsite, Tel. 01286660222, to isalittlecloser Trefor, butdirect access totheseais Campsite hasdirect of Aberafon access tothesea2kmnorth-east Trefor, Tel. 01286660295. Additional Information stronger of beyond currents andtothenorth withoverfalls highwaterisbest soastotakeadvantage ebbstream.local ofthesouth-west running There are well shelteredcomponent insouth-easterlies. butisgenerally Leaving Peninsula oftheLleyn ornortherly part isexposedtoanyThe north windswithawesterly Tide &Weather Trwyn Porth Dinllaen. Trefor withinanhourof

Looking north over Porth Dinllaen Bardsey viewed from Pen y Cil Bardsey Island Finish No. 19 Start Coastguard Tidal rates Tidal times HW/LW | GradeC | 17km Holyhead, Tel. 01407762051, VHF0150UTrepeatedevery 3hours. off PenyCilandCarregDduduringthemiddlehours of thetide. The springrateinBardseySoundcanreach6knotsplaces.Impressive overfalls form the mainlandshoreofBardseySound. after HW Liverpool and runs along the west side of Aberdaron Bay, then NW, close to Bardsey Soundcloseinshore:A‘youngflood’streambeginsaround3hours, 30minutes Liverpool, theNWgoingstreambeginsaround4hours45minutesafterHW Liverpool. Bardsey Sound:TheSEgoingstreambeginsaround1hour15minutes beforeHW before HWLiverpool,theNEgoingstreambeginsaround4hoursafter Liverpool. Lleyn northcoastandwestsideofBardsey:TheSWgoingstreambeginsaround 2hours around 3hours20minutesbeforeLiverpool. at Aberdaronoccuraround3hours15minutesbeforeLiverpoolandBardsey AberdaronBeach(172263) AberdaronBeach(172263) | OSSheet123 | Tidal PortLiverpool 107 Bardsey Island 19 19 108 Bardsey Island served asasmall,served Bardsey pointfor since ancienttimes, anddeparture harbour natural arole which is the crossing thelasthourofebb. toBardsey during Aberdaron Justover 1kmsouth-west from inorder Aberdaron HWLiverpool to reach Pen about4hoursafter Paddle from yCilandbegin Description have beenbreeding here nowanumberofyears. for breed.rare andunusualManxshearwater Peregrine falcons and, enough, oddly long-eared owls continuing totheirfinaldestinations.few places where thisis oneofthe More significantly of Britain’s birds migrating aswheatear, such skills. navigation andpaddling weather. Careful tidalplanningandagood weather are forecast essential, aswell astheappropriate time Grail’‘Holy statusamongst seakayakers. inany undertaking toBardsey isaserious Atrip asone toRome.the samemerit Island retains itssmall To thepresent day Enlli/Bardsey Ynys on theisland. of thelives cross ofthose20,000saintstowhom amemorial standson thesiteofoldabbey upto6knotsinitssurroundingstreams waters. thatrun claimed many These are thewatersthat to get to, themainlandthatmakesthisislandsoremote andtricky 3km from itisthestrong tidal The for BardseyWelsh nameis Introduction Porth Meudwy, sheltered asmall bay nestledinamongst thesteepcliffs. Meudwyhas Porth The ancient pilgrims wereThe ancientpilgrims notalone intheirtravels; are whereLleyn Bardsey many andthe oftheCelticsaintsandtheirtravels,In thedays three toBardsey pilgrimages Islandheld Ynys Enlli,Ynys as translates which oftheCurrents’.‘Isle Itisnotthe sand martin andredwing arest stopfor sand martin before

Winter sunset from Bardsey island to the slipway at ofinjury.risk 300macross An alternative tobattlingwiththeboulderscouldbeportage the boats across carries a real this is difficultand seaweed-infested boulder field is exposed;carrying on Bewareofstaying thisbeachtoolong tide. withafalling only! Asthe waterrecedes, asteep sealsatplay.a wonderful placewatching for iseasyat Porth Landing butathighwater Solfach winds. battered bythis isashore regularly theprevailingsouth-westerly Onapleasantday thisis toppedwithheatherand rough pastureshore givefeeling that isrugged. the cliffs gnarly Low extremity,northern CafnEnlli. called narrow gully sunshinehere.in theafternoon iseasiestby endofthebay Landing theslipway inthe atthenorth jagged rocks and pools withkelp. It is easy to whileaway the seals basking an hour orso watching andCafnEnlli. toHenllwyn toreveal hasashinglebeachathighwaterbutdries close Henllwyn Pen Diban, thelighthouseinlinewithPen oreven Cristin, asatransit. greet waterwill you Slack ebbstreamdying andPen Diban, tipofBardsey, thesouthernmost come intoview. slowly will Use Bardsey. slopes,The north-eastern andinhospitable,forbidding can beseenat first. are that all here inspiteoftideandstorm. standsfirm From here haveof you will your first breathtaking view ‘young flood’ eddystream. greetPen yCilwill you withits might, splendourand reputation; the rock tiny andgullies. bays you begintogaintheassistance ofthe will totheheadland Asyou get closer herethesummermonths. during from depart trips littletothisday astourist has changedvery If you plan to paddle roundIf you plan to paddle PenOnce away from yCilanditsassociatedconfused waters, SEon the you tendtodrift will Paddling on towards Pen yCilyou into seesomewedged ofthedisusedminingquays can tightly Trwyn yGorlech, water. aspossible toslack ispassedasclose The western Cafn Enlli. point The southernmost on Bardsey is Bardsey it is best done anticlockwise before landing so that the Bardsey it is best done anticlockwise Pen Diban. There are 109 Bardsey Island 19 19 110 Bardsey Island beyond appearbeyondwill Pen features withbuildingsor hillside thenbeusedasatransit andcan Cristin be purchased. Payment made by box. isusually theuseofanhonesty ‘Cristin’ souvenirs can andsurprisingly is located where theBardsey Bird and Field Observatory Abbey. Mary’s ofSt ruins Onthewayalong back theroughthatleads towards track is CafnEnlli slopesthrough down thenorth-west leads heatherandgorse steeply towards the13thCentury by created themovement andpatterns byto become mesmerized strong tidalcurrents. Apath Mountains of Ireland to the west.Wicklow If you your cast eyes down to the sea it is quite easy Snowdonia to the north, the Preseli Mountains and Pembrokeshire the to the south and even mere 167m above sea level, its summit it is possible to see most of the major peaks of but from tothesummit.on theskyline; then befollowed north can theridge Mynydd standsa Enlli As you approach there thefarmhouse isamarked pathon theleft. This leads ridge you tothe tothepublic.closed was builtin1877. thebuildings remain The lighthouse wasautomated in1987butunfortunately accompanied by impressive several buildings. square tower,The uniquely stands30mtall, which your timetoexplore theisland. tipoftheislandandis tothesouthern The lighthouseisclose little pointingettingon back thewatermore thananhourbeforewater, the nextslack sotake halfway throughonly your trip. for plans This isa your good momentcheck to return. Thereis to theslipway atCafnEnlli. more company round sealsfor andplenty right theheadland,two caves Bay andacross Henllwyn Begin your return asthefloodstream diesout.from CafnEnlli, out As you paddle Pen yCil reached by bemosteasily of The topofMynydd can walkingtothefarmhouse Enlli Ty Pellaf. some self-congratulation, upon theshoresLanding of Bardsey deserves butremember you are Aberdaron Bay. ebbstream tendtopush The beginningsofthenew will you eastinthelate

The north-west tip of Bardsey, Mynydd Mawr and Braich y Pwll beyond. Bardsey Lighthouse then bemade floodstream. on thenorth-going running.island iftheebbisstill Onceyou are round totheeastside, areturn toPorth Oercan may berequired paddling Determined toreach themainshore andcreep round to thewest ofthe y Pwll, makeyour crossing toMaen Bugail, Bardsey’s shore. north rock500mfrom asmall Oer/ begin your andgive return Pen crossing earlier yCilandits ‘young flood’ stream awideberth. slack, leave Aberdaron around 2hoursbefore HWLiverpool. you Inthiscase would dowell to above is a crossingThe description based around HW slack. To do the same route around LW Variations prevent return around asafe for 5hours. Be confident of once your forecast because weather you land on Bardsey fasttidalstreams will sound upon theconditions you findthere. If you don’t likewhat you see, back. turn can always you streams. Aberdaron toPen from Itispossibletopaddle yCilandbaseyour decision tocross the The crossing toBardsey Islandcombinestheexposure all ofanopenseacrossing withfasttidal Tide &Weather beyondstanding boldandbright theshore, awelcoming sight, yet almost3kmaway. still stages ofthecrossing. Asyou passPen yCil, Aberdaron andthe A longer and more exciting trip can be done in the last couple of hours of the ebb from Porth A longer bedone andmore inthelast coupleofhourstheebbfrom can exciting trip Whistling Sands (165298). Sands Whistling This isa good way toseethe west oftheisland. From Braich Ty Newdd Hotelcome intoview, 111 Bardsey Island 19 19 112 Bardsey Island dependant, makesbooking which along way inadvance impractical. theBardsey Island from Trust, Tel. 08458112233. The crossingweather toBardsey isessentially across your tentupMynydd yGwyddel provide will excellentviews orMynydd Mawr walkfrom A short specialposition, (143255)holdsavery Mynydd Mawr called previous chapter Tel. 01758760223. There of accommodation isnoshortage inandaround Aberdaron. mentioned inthe Acampsite Additional Information Camping on Bardsey butthere isnotpermitted are rent cottageshostelavailablefor andasmall Bardsey Sound.

Memorial cross in the grounds of St Mary’s Abbey

Andy Biggs & Andy Biggs Jim Krawiecki fifty great sea kayak voyages fifty sea kayak great Welsh Sea Kayaking Welsh

Welsh Sea Kayaking Jim Krawiecki & Andy Biggs

Front Cover - View from Porth Dinllaen - View from Front Cover Lighthouse - Skerries Back Cover Welsh Sea Kayaking Welsh