© LonelyPlanetPublications biggest megalithicmonumentinWales. prehistoric landscapethatincludesthedolmen(Neolithicburialchamber)ofPentre Ifan,the the MynyddPreseli, sourceoftheStonehengebluestones,whichwatchesover amysterious risetheroundedridgesof city inBritainandthecradleofWelshChristianity.Tonorth cathedralandBishop’sPalaceand Manorbiertotheage-worn ofStDavid’s–thesmallest porpoises, sealsandseabirds,includingtheworld’slargest colonyofManxshearwaters. the Sunday-afternoon strollers. The parkisalsoahaven forwildlife; it’shometodolphins, outthehardcorea 186-milerollercoasterfrom hikers ofalong-distancetrailthatwillsort coasteering androckclimbing. Andthenthere’ssea kayaking, thePembrokeshire CoastPath, brokeshire CoastNationalPark adventure –a200-mile-long playgroundfamousforitssurfing, frequented andwildlife. onlybywalkers interspersed withlongstretchessuch asSolvaandPorthgain, ofremote, roadlesscoastline like seaside resorts andBroadHaven alternate withpicturesque harbourvillages one ofthemostpopularholidaydestinationsincountry.Traditionalbucket-and-spade cliffs, seal-haunted islandsandbeautifulbeaches. meets thesea sea ofspectacular andgoldensand,ascenicextravaganza inawelter ofsurf alittlecornerofCaliforniaLike transplanted toWales,Pembrokeshire iswhere thewest Pembrokeshire 162 There are too,fromtheimposingmedievalcastlesatPembroke, historical attractions Carew ofthecounty,includingallcoastline,isprotected withinthePem-Almost one-third Among thetop-three western sunniestplacesintheUK,thiswave-lashed promontoryis

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Whitesands Bay St David's Head Skomer Island St David'sCathedral Barafundle Bay NATIONAL PARK lonelyplanet.com populations of sea birds, while seals, dolphins, birds,whileseals, populations of sea andislandssupporthuge breeding cliffs sea a profusion of wildlife –Pembrokeshire’s with someof thebestbeaches inWales,and tically foldedrockformationsinterspersed scenic coastlineof withfantas- rugged cliffs in thenorth.Itsmanyattractionsincludea well asthemoorlandhillsof MynyddPreseli Pembrokeshire anditsoffshore islands,as in 1952,takes inalmosttheentire coastof established Arfordir SirBenfro), Cenedlaethol The Pembrokeshire CoastNationalPark (Parc PMRKSIE COAST PEMBROKESHIRE Whitesands Bay PEMBROKESHIRE Porthmelgan Ramsey

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, PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE deep woods, and some coastal tracks.Summer woods,and some coastal deep isolatedand bridleways through hamletsand Coast Path, butthere are plentyof quietlanes Bikes are notallowedonthe Pembrokeshire Cycling map androute description. andregion, ficulty, distance thenprintouta strolls to10-milehikes; bydif- youcansearch ing more than200walksrangingfromeasy .uk) hasanexcellentonlinewalkingguide, list- see For baggage-carrying services right . the entire path In May-June there isa14-dayguidedwalkof arecosts £4,andevents listed in ers leadavarietyof guided walks; afullday ing point. andreturnwalk short sections toyourstart- theroute insummer,allowingyouto serve toStDavid’s. close VariousBay, shuttle buses to Martin’s Haven, toWhitesands andCaerfai mended one-daystretches includefromDale ofvarious sections thetrail. are lotsof opportunitiesforshort walksalong feel uptothefull14-or15-dayhike, there see Britain; p197 formore Ifyoudon’t details. of walksin themostbeautifullong-distance The 186-mile Pembrokeshire CoastPath isone Walking Adventure TYF Venture Preseli for anall-inclusive weekend. adventure, and£190 £45/85 forahalf-/full-day Typicalpricesare train orbusstation. around ply healthyfoodandwillcollectyoufromthe have theirownaccommodationandbar,sup- Bothplaces riding, rockclimbingandabseiling. hiking,horse biking,surfing,coastal mountain kayaking, Activities includecoasteering,sea as wellresidential group-based programmes. and adventure sportsforindividualtravellers, The centres listed here offer arange of activities ACTIVITIES is alsopacked information. withuseful Park Authority’swebsite (www.pcnpa.org.uk) tripsandminibustours. TheNational canoe tours, cyclingtrips,ponytreks, islandcruises, .tyf.com; St,StDavid’s) 1High between StDavid’sandFishguard. theA487 .com; Parcynole Off Fach, Haverfordwest) Mathry, 164 From ApriltoOctober, NationalPark rang- If youhave onlylimited time,recom- The nationalparkwebsite (www.pcnpa.org PEMBROKESHIRE COAST NATIONAL PARK ••Activities ( ( % % % 01437-721611, 0800132588;www 0845-345 7275costing£180. 01348-837709; www.preseliventure Coast toCoast . for riding–alongbeaches, across openmoor- The Pembrokeshire area coastisafantastic Pony Trekking&HorseRiding bours andbays. fromcalmhar- tripsstarting enjoy coastal UK’s finest areas.can sea-kayaking Beginners jumpingandswimming. scrambling, cliff byacombinationofcliffs climbing,traversing, helmet, youmake yourwayalongthecoastal jacketequipped withwetsuit,flotation and coasteering isabitof asuperhero sport– surf schools where youcantake lessons. kite surfingare alsopopular. There are several inthewest.Windsurfingand Whitesands Bay the south,andatBroadHaven, Newgaleand bier, Freshwater in WestandDaleBay ing atbeaches such asTenby South,Manor- Pembrokeshire hassomeof best Britain’s surf- Water Sports lages andtowns. are bike-hire placesinmanyof themajor vil- more onthenationalcyclingnetwork.There Pembrokeshire; through passes see p60 for to unclassifiedroadsorB-roads. north, canmake cyclinghazardous,so stick onA-roads,traffic especiallytheA487in Path withoutcarrying aheavy pack. baggage transfer ifyou wanttohike theCoast walkingholidays, and/orcanarrangeganised to Coast . Thefollowingorganisations offer or- Organised tours andwalksare listed in TOURS Pembrokeshire (£22). get thetwo-volume ClimbersClubGuideto ston. Forfullcoverage of routes andaccess, (MaWorlde Café Weston’s; p170 ) inBosher- Head. Themainclimbers’ hang-outisYe Olde Rocks nearStGovan’s Head toStackpole erston inSouthPembrokeshire, fromStack concentration of classicroutes isnearBosh- all grades,mostlyonlimestone. Thebiggest sea-cliff withroutesclimbing inBritain, of Pembrokeshire canboastsomeof thefinest Rock Climbing for listings. Coast toCoastin ornearthenationalpark;see country lanes–andthere are adozen stables land, alongwoodedbridlewaysordownquiet First pioneered onthePembrokeshire coast, Parts Trail), (theCeltic of LônGeltaidd The western tipof thecoastisoneof the

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12 Laston House Hill Bay St Mary’s Churchis St Mary’s lonelyplanet.com Station RNLI Lifeboat St Catherine's Island 0.1 miles 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 (1 Castle 9 200 m B2 C2 C2 C2 C2 C2 B2 C2 Oct) island is closed tothepublic. island isclosed the touristoffice. TheVictorianfortonthe out pasttheoldandnew here, of apathleads all theevils man’.Beyond willwashaway lates astheoptimistic‘Thesea Sq) Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Wales’ biggest colony of cormorants. prohibited); it’shometogrey andalso seals of isanature (landingsare Caldey reserve at theharbourslipway. at lowtide. TicketsBeach are soldfromakiosk tide andfromCastle from theharbourathigh script). cient Celtic (anan- is astonewithinscriptionsinogham Church, with itsoddlyshaped steeple. Inside sure youvisittheoldprioryandStIlltyd’s Makewith goodviewsfromthelighthouse. monastery andgreat walksaroundtheisland, ploy peoplefromthemainland. chocolate, anddosowellthattheynowem- on theisland’swildflowers), shortbread and includingperfume(based products forsale, live anaustere life butmake variousluxurious of around20Cistercian monks.Themonks acommunity washed monastery thathouses birds,andared-topped, andsea white- seals h land Boat tripsrunfromTenby Is- harbourtoCaldey in you get trappedbythetide–check tidetables Island St Catherine’s ings byAugustusandGwenJohn. re-created pirate’s cellandagalleryof paint- a Victorianantiquarian’sstudy.There’s alsoa exhibits rangingfromdelicate to Romanvases resort bigger thanBlackpool,withinteresting a fishingvillage intoa19th-centuryseaside which covers from thetown’sdevelopment Feb, 10am-5pmMon-Fri Jan) Mar-Dec, closedChristmas–end ( gers, offers around Caldey 1¼-hour cruises over thecoast. a memorialtoPrinceAlbertandfineview of thehillare theruinsof theNormancastle, Hillheadland.Ontop and aroundtheCastle % . TheGreek writingonthepedimenttrans- At low tide you can walk across the sand to At lowtideyoucanwalkacrossthesand The Little Islanddeparthalf-hourly Boats toCaldey There are twice-dailyguidedtours of the The pathleadsto Coast toCoast, , avessel that can carryupto120 passen- 10am-5pm Mon-Fri Apr-Oct) 10am-5pm Mon-Fri 842809; Castle Hill; adult/child £2.50/1.20; 842809; CastleHill; ( % Catalina 844453; www.caldey-island.co.uk; adult/child£9/5; St Margaret’s Islandatthewestern tip St Margaret’s ( % , butit’salong,coldwaitif at anynewsagent oraskat 843545; adult/child£6/3; Tenby Museum & Art Gallery Tenby &Art Museum , hometolotsof grey RNLI lifeboatstations SOUTHPEMBROKESHIRE••Tenby (DinbychyPysgod) h 10am-5pm h Apr- ,

guesthouse stand outfromthecrowd. The stand guesthouse purple, green –make andfriendly thispleasant best budget placesintown. a cheerful couple,isoneof Spanish-Italian the runby décor stakes, butthislittleguesthouse, beach.sandy pathanda and only600mfromthecoastal attractive ones,just1.5milesnorthof Tenby sites around Tenby, butthisisoneof themore Sep) NewHedges;sitespertent£10-15; -holiday-park.co.uk; let theroomforwholeweekend). onaweekend (ownersjust onenight wantto you paythepriceof adouble),ortobookfor tofindasingleroom(unless It canbedifficult B&Bs, butbesure tobookaheadinsummer. Tenby isoverflowing and withguesthouses Sleeping competitions, choirs anddancing. bands,kitecerts, samba flying,sand-sculpture street classical-musiccon- performers, poetry, .co.uk) The Festivals The Norton; Islandticketkiosk nexttotheCaldey kiosk. are forkids.Bookyourtripsatthe suitable per person); issupplied,andthetrips alltackle erel inthewaters Island(£8 aroundCaldey .co.uk) the bestbreaks inPembrokeshire. to Tenby which offers SouthBeach, someof rides andkayakhire. Keen surfers shouldhead ranges water-skiing, wakeboarding, speedboat such orpirates. asghosts There are 1¼-to1½-hourwalks,withthemes .co.uk; adult/child£3.75/2.75; run byTownTrails Guided walksof Tenby’s historicalsites are Activities there are cruises. alsotwo-hoursunset inJulyandAugust ing) toviewbirdsandseals; Island andStMargaret’s Island(withoutland- .co.uk; 10DeerPark, Greenhill Rd;rperperson£20-30; Pine furniture andboldcolours –burgundy, falgar Rd;rperperson£20-25) Rowston HolidayPark You canrent bikes from Tenby Fishing Croyland GuestHouse Boulston CottageGuestHouse Tenby Watersports There are dozensof caravan andcamping Tenby Festival Arts offers tripstofishformack- sea-angling runs for a week in late September, with inlateruns foraweek September, h 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat)

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PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE snacks, cakes andgoodcoffee. dishes,aswell tasty and pasta native seafood style bistro-restaurant offers amenuof imagi- £12-15) ditional thinandcrispypizza. and olives) tofreshly prepared risottototra- antipasti (aspread of cured meats,cheeses cuisine,from inauthenticItalian specialises overlookinggian house theharbour,Nana’s h cess, too. homemade soupandcakes. Ithaswi-fi ac- licious sandwiches,alongwithgoodcoffee, bread andfresh localproducetocreate de- bentwood chairs, home-baked No25uses 5pm) No 25Cafè Eating .uk; Southcliffe St;d£55-75) to make themostof thatview. furniture. Ask foroneof theroomsatfront has beautifullyrestored offbyantique roomsset enjoys atopspotoverlooking theharbourand Oct) view. few extraquidforaroomwithsea Islandisnot.It’sworthforkingouta Caldey stunning panoramaover and SouthBeach spreads forTenby, maybestandard butthe location –thepastel décorandfloralbed- The Esplanade;rperperson£35-50) from theoldtown. andabout fivethe trainstation minutes’ walk to very –VictorianB&B,close comfortable are theorderof thedayinthistraditional–and lamp shades andbusy-patterned wallpapers ing St;s/dfrom£30/60) anattractivehouse placetostay. friendly, helpfulownermake thislate-Georgian rated spaciousrooms,great breakfasts anda tastefully deco- Beach; steps downtoCastle 40; tothecentre.and close rooms are alittlecramped,butare goodvalue 168 and creams withafloralmotif. cleaner, more moderndécorof palepastels chintz andfrillinessfora traditional seaside just300mfromtheoldtown,eschewshouse, Bridge House Bridge Panorama Hotel Ivy Bank House Myrtle Café Reef Nana’s Restaurant GuestHouse Rebleen p Thiswell-kept, whitewashed Georgian house lunch & dinner Jun-Sep, varies Oct-May) varies lunch &dinnerJun-Sep, An appealing café with marble tables and Anappealingcaféwithmarbletables SOUTH PEMBROKESHIRE••Tenby (DinbychyPysgod) Thissmallandintimate Mediterranean- ) Agreat locationafew metres fromthe ( % ( ( % % 842544; 25 High St;mains£2-6; 842544; 25High

( ( % 845258; Vernon House, StJulian’sSt;mains 842311; www.ivybanktenby.co.uk; Hard- % ( Swagged curtains, tasselled tasselled Swagged curtains, % 843893; Bridge St;dfrom£55; 843893; Bridge 842508; St Mary’s St;rperperson£28- 842508; StMary’s ( % ThisVictorianterraced 844976; www.tenby-hotel.co.uk; ( 844536; Bridge St;mains £6-16; 844536; Bridge % Location,location, 844175; www.rebleen.co Set inaGeor- Set h h 10am- Apr- the busstation. 1935. The same familyrunthetraditional1935. Thesame to mashed potato. andsaffron sauce local species)withchampagne-chive cream food –trythepan-fried gurnard(asustainable makes of sea- gooduse localproduce,notably is probablyTenby’s bestrestaurant. Themenu work create acosy,rusticatmosphere inwhat brick- wood, oldtimberbeamsandexposed £15-20; and mash,isgoodvalue. batteredmussels, cod andchips, andbangers Thelunchganic beef. menu,which includes toor-with themenurangingfromseafood a goodplaceforromantic,candle-litdinner, chimney hearth(nolessthan6mwide).It’s restaurant, Tudor dominated byanimmense itsmostatmospheric away inanalley,houses mains £13-22) menu of burgers dishes. andpasta bass,alongsideachildren’sand baked sea dishes such asMoroccan-stylelambchops loved familyrestaurant thatproducesquality tos, Pam Pam isalocalinstitutionandmuch white wallscovered inlocalartworkandpho- and chairstables offbybluenapkinsand set £12-17) blues music atweekends. gardenat the back,andlivea beer folkand Lifeboat onthefootpath, hasoutdoortables the inaGeorgian house, appealing oldpub set excellentpub grub. garden intownandserves on match weekends, butitalsohasthebestbeer isarugbypub,withloud, up-for-itneer crowd courtyard forsummerafternoon sessions. andasunny, flower-bedeckedSaturday nights, a lively hotel barwithcooltuneson Fridayand pub crawlsfromonekaraoke bartothenext. withbiggroupsof on nights, ladsandlasses can get pretty riotousonFridayandSaturday into thearea aroundTudorSq,andtheplace There are aroundtwodozenpubscrammed Drinking Fecci’s Parlour IceCream Park Rd; Lifeboat Tavern Buccaneer Inn Tenby House Blue BallRestaurant For thebestfishandchips intown,head Plantagenet House Pam Pam Restaurant There’s alarge D Fecci &Sons Smartlydecked outwithdarkwood h h 8am-8pm Mon-Sat,10am-4pmSun) lunch Tue-Sun, dinnerMon-Sat) Tenby’s oldestbuilding,tucked Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ( % ( % (Lower FrogSt)

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(Upper Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com person £24-27; rper Westmoor,Manorbier; [email protected]; village, now sportingacoat of chain mail. for thefigure thatwasoriginallyPrincePhilip, from Madame inLondon.Lookout Tussaud’s figures inperiodcostume–apparently rejects secretsmuggler’s passage, of andtableaux wax in theGreat Hall. There’s amurkydungeon, a a pretty musicplaying garden,withmedieval the 12thto19thcenturies,are groupedaround the 2003film place byfar,’hewrote. Thecastlestarred in broad landsof Wales,Manorbier isthebest ofCambrensis (Gerald Wales).‘Inallthe the birthplaceof theextraordinaryGiraldus bier; adult/child£3.50/1.50; lichen-spotted a lovely beach. sandy It’shometocraggy, tle village of leafy,twistinglanes nestledabove Manorbier (pronouncedman-er-beer) isalit- % Manorbier SOUTH PEMBROKESHIRECOAST Pembroke. to Saturday,oneonSunday),continuing dailyMonday (£10,1½hours,Swansea seven utes, hourlyMondaytoSaturday). via Manorbier andPembroke (£2.50,40min- daily MondaytoSaturday). berth andchange tothe430(onehour,two takeTo get the381asfarNar- toCardigan, change toStDavid’s forbuses andFishguard. to Saturday,oneonSunday),where youcan Haverfordwest (£3,onehour,hourlyMonday Silcox Coaches bus381runsfromTenby to Getting There&Away Set onaworkingfarm1.5miles westof the Set toTenbyThere’s adirect trainservice from toHaverfordwestFirst Cymrubus349goes The castlebuildings,ranginginerafrom trade-off betweenpriceandpampering. trade-off and Best,withorwithoutaseaview–werecommend aGoodSeaView (£180)asbeingthebest showers.have Roomsare polishedlimestone,roll-topbathsandpowerful gradedGood,Better and modern,withdesignerbedspreads, whilethebathrooms oakfurniture andlocalartwork, clifftoprestaurantbefore (mains£16to£23).The dininginthecandle-lit bedrooms are stylish relax pooloverlooking inthesaunaorsteam theharbour, room,orloungeintheinfinity-edge ofTenby.dersfoot, afew milesnorth Pembrokeshire’s firstboutiquehotel offers thechanceto Spa Hotel onthecoastpath,headfor If youfancyaspotofluxuryafter ahardday’shiking AUTHOR’S CHOICE 01834 /pop665 Swanlake BayFarm Guesthouse Swanlake p ( % I Capturethe Castle ) Castle Manorbier offers andcheery bed- bright 01834-812304; www.stbridespahotel.com; St Bride’s Hill, Saundersfoot;d£130-250; Hill, StBride’s 01834-812304; www.stbridespahotel.com; h 10.30am-5.30pm Easter-Sep) ( % 871394; Manor- SOUTH PEMBROKESHIRE••SouthPembrokeshire Coast . ( % 871204; , are inhabited. dragonfly, whiletheruinsof themanor house to otters, heronsandmore than20 species of cessible bywheelchair. Thepondsare home footpaths andwoodenbridges; partsare ac- byanetworkofbest inJune),criss-crossed cess tothefamous created thiselegantpark. p193 ). Inthe18thand19th centuriesthey Invasion of of Britain, theLast Fishguard (see whofeaturedCawdor, intheFrench invasion Richard andhiswife, de Stackpole andLord nearby Cheritonare of 14th-centuryeffigies times; inthechurchback tomedieval in of afamilywithlocalrootsdating Cawdor, of earls theCampbells, wastheseat Stackpole displayoffor theirspectacular water lilies. andasystem of artificialpondsfamous coast, includingtwofinebeaches, awooded admission free; The NationalTrust’s % &StackpoleEstate toPembroke.trains fromSwansea by amilenorthofstation, thevillage, served broke stopsinthevillage. There’s alsoatrain First Tenby Cymrubus349between andPem- onweekend evenings. fiddle sessions garden, ajukebox and andoccasionalguitar village pubwitharhododendron-shaded beer Ministry of Defence building. inaweirdlyfuturisticex– and ishoused £14; Swanlakefrom secluded beach. verted just10minutes’ coach walk house, andcon- rooms inaGeorgian farmhouse centre, tothebeach atSkrinkleHaven, close Manorbier is5.5milessouthwestof Tenby. The YouthHostel Manorbier A carparkinBosherston village gives ac- 01646 h Easter-Oct) Castle Inn Castle h is1.5mileseastof thevillage dawn-dusk) ( % Bosherston LilyPonds 871268; Manorbier)

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169 PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE The Coastal Cruiser (387/362)busruns from Cruiser The Coastal Bosherston is5milessouth of Pembroke. THERE&AWAYGETTING as wellcoffee, Devonshire teas andcakes. smoked andfresh ducksalad crabsandwiches, surprisingly upmarket menuthatincludes hasa inthecourtyard,Boathouse tables h fried breakfasts, teacakes andcrumpets. hearty hang-out forrockclimbers, andserves ivy-covered coastguardcottage. It’sapopular inanold, Weston’s, thisappealingcaféisset h real ales.Mains cost £5 to9. attracted by excellentcurriesandarange of it’s popular withclimbers cliffs; the localsea with hair-raising photosof rockclimbson modation above aconvivialbardecorated per person£30) milk andbread are sold. attractive campsite withshowers; fresh eggs, Pembroke andBosherston, thisisabasicbut church inStPetrox village, midway between offersfarmhouse B&Bandabasiccampsite. Broadhaven Southbeach, this17th-century per person£3) FarmTrefalen SLEEPING &EATING havemight theplacetoyourself. andyou inspring,though, Go onaweekday summer weekends itcanget pretty crowded. its reputation–on hasputpaidtoseclusion beautiful beaches.is,but Scenicitcertainly dle Bay Quayleadsto path fromStackpole with informationleaflets,andagoodtearoom. water West.There’s aNationalTrustcarpark South Pembrokeshire coastfromhere toFresh- the massive grey limestonethatdominates the where gives pinkandpurplesandstone wayto a mileeastof thelilyponds,markspoint stacks. sea framed bygrey andpointed limestonecliffs the beautifulgoldenbeach of 170 Old Rectory, StPetrox; sitespertent£5) Old Rectory, centre of Bosherston hasgoodB&B accom- A 10-minute walksouthalongthecoast A milesoutheastof Bosherston village is Boathouse Tearoom Ye OldeWorldeCafé CountryInn St Govan’s Site &Camping Caravan St Petrox The tinyharbourof 9am-6.30pm, to9pmJul&Aug) Easter-Oct) SOUTH PEMBROKESHIRE••SouthPembrokeshire Coast , regularly voted oneof most Britain’s Amilesoutheastof Bosherston, near A pleasant littlecaféwith outdoor Apleasant Thisfriendlyvillage pubinthe ( % 661643; Bosherston; r per person £25, sites 661643; Bosherston;rperperson£25,sites

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( % 01646-680070; www.outer , itsvertical walls , wedged intoa % 01646- runs web.com; Castlemartin; rperperson£32) web.com; Castlemartin; the hour beginner’ssession. and Manorbier; at£25fora two- pricesstart lonelyplanet.com Pembroke Dock, Pembroke Dockhasits own town,2milestothe northwest. separate 800m eastof thecastle. Pembroke Dockisa supermarket onMain is St.Thetrain station at thecastleentranceandoutsideSomerfield the prominentcastle. Themainbusstopsare The 700m-longMain Ststretches eastfrom Orientation &Information Cromwell hadthetownwallsdemolished. besieged for48daysbefore itfell, after which 1648, duringthe Civil War,thecastlewas cept atPembroke (nowPembroke Dock).In anywhere intheMilfordHaven waterway ex- of Incorporationmadeitillegaltolandgoods local traders scored acoupwhenRoyalAct gomery) builtacastlehere in1093.In1154 nasty andbirthplaceof KingHenry VII. of theTudordy- oldest inwestWales,seat sitting beneathawhoppinggreat castle–the street of neatGeorgian andVictorianhouses Pembroke isnotmuch more thanasingle % PEMBROKE (PENFRO) has fourroomsoverlooking thesea. TuesdayNovemberner, closed toMarch) and (mains£8to£13,openlunch anddin- seafood locallycaught shipwreck timbers, which serves £30/60) to findOldPointHouse ( on theCoastPath, the with lotsof rockpoolstoexplore. St Ann’sHead, andoffers walks goodcoastal views acrossthemouthof MilfordHaven to tiny beach in off thebeaten track.Themainattractionisthe brokeshire, thevillage of Anglefeels alongway Stuck atthewestern extremity of SouthPem- Angle meals (three-course dinnerfor£19). Bosherstonbetween andAngle. Italsohas Freshwater West,istheonlyaccommodation cilities forcampers amongtheruins. % If you’re hikingtheCoastPath, beaware that Arnulph deMontgomery(Arnulfof Mont- Continue pastthefarmonavery road rough On theeastern edge of thevillage, right Ferries fromRosslare inIreland arrive at 01646 /pop7400 01646-641220; pertent£5) Old Rectory , a 15th-century cottage part built with , a15th-centurycottage partbuiltwith West AngleBay,which hasgreat ( % SOUTHPEMBROKESHIRE••Pembroke (Penfro) 01646-661677; www.theoldrectory ( % Castle Farm Site Castle Camping offers very basicfa- 01646-641205; The Point; s/d 01646-641205; ThePoint;s/d , 2mileseastof

h of space here –33mensleptin hammocksin ers. There wasrather anunfairdistribution byFrenchharbour frompossible attack invad- the in cial port,butsomeof itshistorysurvives after. Todayit’saferry terminal andcommer- forflyingboatsduringWWII and (RAF) base asaRoyalAir Force Royal Navy. Italsoserved more than260ships were builthere forthe 1814and1926 Royal Dockyard–between north of Pembroke, wasoncethesite of a asastoreused andboathouse. tially walledinbytheNormansandprobably , amassive naturalcave thatwaspar-Cavern ern Hall, are steps downtothecreepy theNorth- cell. Nearby,withaccessthrough downintothedank,darkprison you canpeer over thetown. the massive VII. Onehundred steps leadtothetopof worth Fieldin1485tobecomeKing Henry who defeated ofRichard IIIattheBattle Bos- rates thebirthhere in1456of Henry Tudor, commemo- castle’s history.Inone,atableau and there are the vividexhibitionsdetailing walks andpassages runfromtowertotower, tours are available fromMay toAugust. istheoldestpart,builtin1200.Guided 12th and13thcenturies;thesinister, looming but mostof thepresent buildingsdate fromthe lished here in1093byArnulphdeMontgomery, Pembroke forover 300years. Afortwasestab- 10am-4pm Nov-Feb) £3.50/2.50; ( andforbidding The spectacular Sights Office Tourist Pembroke Bookshop Pembroke Dragon Alley the ferry terminal. two-thirdsoftrain station, amileeastfrom access. 1pm Tue-Sat &2-5pmTue 2-7pmThu)Free internet &Fri, Martello towerthatwasbuilttodefend the Tue-Sat; perhr£3)Internetaccess. ent bookshop with a good selection oflocalmapsandguides. ent bookshopwithagoodselection the town. Hasalivelyexhibitiononthehistoryof 5.30pm Apr-Oct) % Next tothekeep isthe Pembroke Dock,ontheCleddauRiver tothe Pembroke It’s agreat placeforkidstoexplore –wall 10am-4pm Apr-Sep) 681510; www.pembrokecastle.co.uk; Main St; adult/child St;adult/child 681510; www.pembrokecastle.co.uk; Main Gun TowerMuseum h

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181 PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE teresting displayonthetown’shistory,com- h Wilton House hasbland but comfortable Wilton House inaGeorgian building, the tral place housed hotel.com; 6QuaySt;s/d from£40/65) with adoubleand twosingles(£80). en-suiteeight rooms,includingafamily room earthy-colours look,andhasnofewer than fortheantique-pine-and- the College goes to thetowncentre, close Georgian townhouse St;s/d/tr£40/60/72; .com; 93Hill College GuestHouse Sleeping &Eating day from9amto3pm. Riverside shopping centre Fri- second every p193). , Invasion of theLast imprisoned in1797(see the unsuccessfulFrench invasionforcewas jail inthecastle’souter ward–itwashere that Stinko. intheoldtown ishoused Themuseum ments, such asArseandPockets, Dripsand a studyhasrecorded endear- 700evocative an interesting onlocalnicknames– section plete with aboil-riddenplaguevictimand child £1/free; cows forRoundheads. Civil Warwhenitssoldiers mistookaherdof abandoned byitsRoyalistgarrisonduringthe 1405, butaccordingtoonelocalstorywas byOwainGlynd anonslaught survived over theriver above theOldBridge. Thecastle brood Castle The meagre ruinsof Haverfordwest Sights Withybush Hospital Office Tourist Post Office Police Station Library Haverfordwest Information A4067/A40 NarberthRd. is 400meastof thetowncentre, justoffthe Riverside shopping centre. Thetrainstation OldBridgetrianised atthenorthendof the the eastsideof theriver, tothepedes- close Rd. StandCartlett St, Bank aroundthecentre,clockwise St,Dew onHigh 182 9.30am-1pm Sat)Free internetaccess. h Wilton HouseHotel TownMuseum Haverfordwest isheldinthe An excellentfarmersmarket andtouristofficeareThe busstation on 10am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, 10am-4pmNov-Mar) 10am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, 9.30am-5pm Mon,Wed&Thu,9.30am-7pmTue &Fri, ETPMRKSIE • etPmrksieCat WEST PEMBROKESHIRE••WestPembrokeshire Coast (12QuaySt) h ( ( 10am-4pm Mon-SatApr-Oct) % % 763110; Old Bridge St; 763110; OldBridge 763355; Merlin’s Hill) 763355; Merlin’s ( ( % % ( ( 763710; www.collegeguesthouse % % 764545; Fishguard Rd) i 760033; www.wiltonhouse 775244; DewSt; ) Set inaspacious Set Anothercen- ( % 763087; adult/ hasanin- ŵ r in London Victoria (£26, seven hours, twice daily) hours, twicedaily) London Victoria(£26,seven hour, three dailyMondaytoSaturday). Silcox (£4.50,one bus322runstoCarmarthen three tofive Sunday)andTenby (1½hours). (£3, 40minutes, hourlyMondaytoSaturday, aswellthebusstation. train station hourly MondaytoSaturday);bothstopatthe day), while412runstoFishguard (40minutes, (£3.50, 40minutes, hourlyMondaytoSatur- Richards Brothers’ bus411runstoStDavid’s BUS Getting There&Away sandwiches withahuge range of fillings. cakes andtortilla andpitta andpastries,salads, goodcoffee, shop, thispopularlocalcaféserves h withallergiesfor those orfoodintolerances. There’s menu winebytheglass,andaseparate ale pietostickytoffee piewithclotted cream. crêpetosteak-and-cooked food,fromseafood boastsasimplemenuoffairy lights, home- of lanterns glass andcandlelight, and stained the Georges winshandsdown–thiscosy nook 5.30pm Mon-Sat) spills outintoalarge walledgarden. modern rooms,andadecentrestaurant that winter service runsonTuesday, Thursday winter service The Solva (three toSeptember). dailyEaster Broad Haven, and Druidston,NewgaleBeach St David’s viaMartin’s Haven, LittleHaven, which runsfromHaverfordwestservice, to can bereached Shuttle bus usingthePuffin cute littlevillages. of thebestbeaches inWales,anddotted with sulas. Itswest-facing shore islinedwithsome the StAnn’sHead andStDavid’s Head penin- scoop of thearmsof coastcradledbetween SainFfraid) (Bae St Bride’sBay isthegreat WEST PEMBROKESHIRECOAST (£10,1½hours).Swansea (£16,2½hours, twohours) every via There are direct trainstoHaverfordwest from TRAIN Haverfordwest (£8,2¼hours, onedaily). Express to alsorunscoach 528 from Swansea TenbyCarmarthen, andPembroke. National to Haverfordwest viaChepstow,Swansea, All thevillages andbeaches aroundthebay National Express coach 508runsdirect from Moon &Sixpence Georges First Cymru’s bus 349 goes toPembrokeFirst Cymru’sbus349goes 9am-4.30pm Mon-Sat) ( % Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Whenitcomestoplaceseat, 766683; 24 Market St;mains£5-8; 766683; 24Market ( Set inthetopfloorof agift Set % 767851; SwanSq;mains£3-5; h 10am- tected byWales’onlymarinenature reserve. The southern peninsulaismuch lessfrequented St Ann’sHead tin’s Haven. notgotoMar-and Saturdayonly,does lonelyplanet.com first come, first served. dren under16are free). boattripsare These there’s alsoalandingfee of £6foradults (chil- 3pmand4pm.Ifyougoashore,land between and noon,withreturn trips leaving theis- October, weatherpermitting,at10am, 11am (plus bankholidayMondays)from Aprilto Haven (adult/child £8/6)TuesdaytoSunday Boat tripstoSkomerdepartfrom Martin’s West Wales runbythe reserves (September). season plentiful onSkomer,especiallyinthepupping with 32,500breeding pairs. Grey are seals also is thethird-largest gannetcolonyinthe UK, the cover of darkness. returnspent feeding atsea totheirnestsunder unusual birdsnestinburrows,andafter aday birds, 40%of theworldpopulation.These largest colonyof Manx shearwaters –120,000 stormpetrels,zorbills, puffins, andtheworld’s a millionsea birds, includingguillemots, ra- islandsareSkokholm hometomore thanhalf Inthenestingseason, in Britain. Skomer and are oneof therichest wildlife environments ripped waters atthesouthendof StBride’sBay The rockyislandsthatlieintheturbulent,tide- Skomer, Skokholm&GrassholmIslands buildings neartheCoastPath. in agroupof NationalTrust–ownedfarm dm£9.50; Marloes; wayskiln, to watch wildlife activityonSkomer. screens thatallowyou with remote-control TV Trust of SouthandWestWalesvisitorcentre ( islands,youcanvisit Skokholm jumping-off pointforboattripstoSkomerand tip of thepeninsula. andaroundWooltackPointatthewestern itself, outtoStAnn’sHeadto beenjoyed,notably Haven. Butthere issomegr its proximity totheoilrefineries of Milford than crowdedStDavid’s, of probably because life.org) h Further offshore, ontiny Island , SandsYouthHostel Marloes At Skomer and Skokholm Islands Skomer andSkokholm are nature 9.30am-12.15pm &12.45-4.30pmApr-Sep) , thetinyharbourthatis Haven Martin’s , whilethesurroundingwaters are pro- (WTSWW; WESTPEMBROKESHIRE••WestPembrokeshire Coast % Wildlife TrustofSouthand 01437-765462; www.welshwild h Easter-Oct)

eat coastal walking eat coastal ( % 01646-636667; Run- Lockley Lodge is housed ishoused ,

a Wildlife land trips(adult/child £8/6)withcommen- Haven; forexample,one-hourround-the-is- operates arange of boattripsoutof Martin’s beaches inSouthWales forbeginningsurfers to too busy, justwalksouth. It’s oneof the best If thenorthend, next toNewgalevillage, is Newgale isthebiggest beach inSt Bride’sBay. Newgale Beach to thebeach. inasprawlingmodernbungalow close housed dm £14; boards andsurfboards. hind theGalleonInn,rents wetsuits,body Rd) .uk; Marine ber rings,water wingsandboogieboards. rub- by tearooms, giftshops, andplacesselling spade familyresort, beach withasandy backed of isatraditional bucket-and- StBride’sBay, Broad Haven, tucked intothesoutherncorner Broad Haven bass, turbotandplaice.ing lobster, crab,sea includ- seafood, inlocallycaught that specialises h Cross) ( if you’re Centre tempted, theWestWalesDive bylocaldiveThe slipwayismuch used boats; a cluster of pastel-painted holidaycottages. ket neighbour, withatinyshingle beach and Little Haven isBroadHaven’s more upmar- Little Haven wildlife.org. fully catered); www.welsh youcanbookthrough (£175perperson forthree Skokholm nights, accommodation onSkomerand bunkhouse shearwaters returning totheirnests. can bedeafening) thehuge flocksof Manx (andhear–thenoise the opportunitytosee (£10/7)thatoffers cruise andanevening tary, see and porpoises seals, dolphins. 2pm onMondaysonly,which youmayalso .co.uk) gust landing isnotpermitted, butfromApriltoAu- ofBirds the Protection (£25 perperson) departingMartin’s Haven at % Sports Haven Nest Bistro For keen bird-watchers, there iscottage and YouthHostel Broad Haven Dale From ApriltoSeptember Sailing Co Grassholm isownedbythe 7-10pm Tue-Sat) 01437-781457; www.westwalesdivers.co.uk; Hasguard offers aone-dayDiscover Scubacourse. Dale SailingCo runs three-hour, round-the-islandtrips h Easter-Oct) , atthesouthendof theprombe- ( % ( % is an informal little restaurant isaninformallittlerestaurant 01437-781728; 12 Grove Pl; mains £12-16; 01437-781728; 12GrovePl;mains£12-16; ( % 01437-781354; www.havensports.co isapurpose-built hostel 01646-603123; www.dale-sailing (RSPB; www.rspb.org.uk) (YHA; (YHA; Royal Societyfor % 0870 7705728; and 183

PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE summer there’s afree park-and-rideshuttle bus town, next tothetouristoffice (£3aday).In carpark. Visitor Centre stops are inNewStandthe NationalPark thedral 200mtothenorthwest.The mainbus The centre of townisCrossSq,withtheca- Orientation &Information wildlife-watching inthesurrounding area. back vibeandtheexcellenthiking,surfing and religious pilgrimstoo,drawnbythetown’slaid- streamconstant of visitors since. ever to oneJerusalem. a Thecathedralhasseen to Rome,andthree toStDavid’s were equal ages toStDavid’s were theequivalentof one IIdeclaredPope Calixtus thattwopilgrim- where In1124, hewasbornatStNon’sBay. here inthe6thcentury,onlyashortwalkfrom more than1500years. Christianity andaplaceof pilgrimage for thecradleofthe nation’spatronsaint, Welsh holiest site inWales;birth-andburial-placeof ofas Tydewwi(theHouse David), thisisthe of itsmagnificentcathedral.KnowninWelsh David’s wasawardedthetitleof ‘city’courtesy it’s littlemore thananovergrown village – St the smallestcityinUK–population-wise Featured inthe % ST DAVID’S(TYDDEWI) Centre Hire boogie boardsandwetsuitsfromNewsurf learn on,andyoucanhire surfboards,surfskis, 184

Today, StDavid’s attractshordesof non The maincarpark isattheeastern edge of St David foundedamonasticcommunity idston is 2 miles north ofBroadHaven. idston is2milesnorth where youcansitandwatchthesunset.Dru- Room, withitsgiant bedandprivate balcony SouthRooffavourite isthepine-panelled self-catering cottageaccommodation.Our rooms withcushion-strewn windowseatsto accommodation, frombrightlypainted attic above thesea,witharangeofidiosyncratic oriented hotel (petswelcome)sethigh stretch ofcoastline. It’sarambling,family- Druidston Haven inthemiddleofaglorious The AUTHOR’S CHOICE 65) .druidstone.co.uk; DruidstonHaven;rperperson£39- 01437 /pop1800 WEST PEMBROKESHIRE •• St David’s (Tyddewi) WEST PEMBROKESHIRE••StDavid’s(Tyddewi) sitsperchedabove thesecludedcove of ( Druidstone Hotel % 01437-721398; www.newsurf.co.uk; Newgale) Guinness Bookof Recordsas

( % 01437-781221; www . Mon-Sat) Sells localmapsandguidebooks. Mon-Sat) Sells and thecathedral.There are someinteresting Oct) h century gatehouse of thedral precinct the13th- youpassthrough Walking fromthe towncentre intotheca- ST DAVID’S CATHEDRAL Sights St David’sBookshop Post Office Police Station Centre National TrustVisitor Centre National Park Visitor Bench Bar access tothecathedralandBishop’sPalace). from here totheMerrivale carpark(withlevel and August,11amto3pmJuneSeptember) 15minutes(every from10amto4pminJuly as church. Builtonthesite of a6th-century asmuch fortressmottled withlichen, itseems multicoloured stonesof purple,goldandgreen impressive Massive sight. andfoursquare, its tion invited; David’s Cathedral murdered byVikinginvaders in1080. sonsofand Isaac, Bishop Abraham, whowas designs, which oncemarked thegrave of Hedd Stone Abraham stoneshere, the11th-century notably carved station; notalwaysopen. books and guides to NT properties inPembrokeshire. books andguidestoNTproperties local-interest Sells Mon-Sat, 10am-3pmSunNov-Mar) St; House, High building work. It willberelocated totowncentre untilsummer2008for office. park, 350meastofthesquare; itincludesatourist tothecar landscapedbuildingnext Nov-Easter) Astriking h hotspot. h

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„ „ „ „ „ TOP FIVE SURFING BEACHES IN , which houses anexhibitionabout, which StDavid houses 10.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat Jul-Sep, 11am-5pmFeb-Jun10.30am-5.30pm Mon-SatJul-Sep, & 9.30am-5.30pm Easter-Oct, 10am-4pmMon-Sat 9.30am-5.30pm Easter-Oct, 10am-8pm) Coffee barwithinternetcaféandwi-fi hsii (p154) Rhossili (p169) Manorbier (p189) Whitesands Newgale ( p183 ) Freshwater West( p170 ) ( h (13NewSt) % h ( 8am-6pm, dependingonservices) 721778; 11 High St;£1.50 per30min; 721778; 11High % , carved with Celtic interlace withCeltic , carved 10am-5.30pm Apr-Oct, 10am-4.30pm 10am-5.30pm Apr-Oct,

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% lonelyplanet.com 720392; TheGrove; 720385; Captain’s (adult/child £1/free; h 11am-5pm isan was ransacked at least seven times. was ransacked atleastseven would behiddenfromVikingraiders, butit inthevainhopethatchurchwas chosen the 12thto14thcenturies.Thevalleysite dateschapel, mainlyfrom thebuildingyousee lonelyplanet.com bishop, and contains thetombofbishop, andcontains Bishop ofstatue StDavid dressed asamedieval a navewall between andchoir), which bears 14th-centuryGothic carved ceiling, adornedwithpendantsandbosses. ence. Above 16th-centuryoak isarichly carved Normanarches, aresultsemicircular of subsid- the massive, purplish-grey pillars linked by are theslopingfloorandoutwardleanof part of thecathedral,first thingsyounotice towers of purplestone,dates fromthisperiod. The distinctive ing andrepair damagebysubsidence. caused and StPancras thebuild- inLondon,tostabilise Gilbert Scott,architect of theAlbertMemorial carried outinthe19thcenturybySirGeorge an earthquake in1248.Extensive workswere problems,madeworseby cathedral sitscaused (1.75mi) To StJustinian ST DAVID'S At thefarendof thenave isadelicately groundonwhichThe sloping,boggy the , the oldest surviving As, theoldestsurviving youenter thenave

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A487 C2 B2 B2 B2 C2 A2 D2 B2 C2 C2 C2 D3 C2 185 PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE tours July andAugustthere are 90-minute to thecathedralandBishop’sPalace. In off-road action (thecoastpath is forwalkers off-road StDavid’sroute through –butno passes Way cycle around thepeninsula –theCeltic There ispleasant cycling onminorroads CYCLING Island. Sound toRamsey rants) andviewsacrossturbulent Ramsey sparrowhawks, choughs, gannetsandcormo- plenty of porpoises, wildlife (lookoutforseals, scenery, is especiallyfine,withwildcoastal Coaster bus (see to townontheCeltic p188 ). (8.5miles),returning miles) orWhitesandsBay path toPorthclais(2miles),StJustinian(6.5 mile southof town,andfollowingthecoastal three-quarters Bay, fromCaerfai ofstarting a You can puttogether walksof coastal alllengths WALKING Activities fordetails. Centre the touristofficeinNationalPark Visitor foropen-airplaysinsummer;askat setting amilesoutheastof Bay, StDavid’s.Caerbwdy inthecathedral,comesfrom stone, alsoused and humanheads.Thedistinctive purplesand- birds, aswellgrotesque mythicalcreatures figuresof –lions,monkeys, carved dogsand the arches are richly adorned withamenagerie yellow stoneblocks.Thecorbelsthatsupport rated withachequerboard pattern of purpleand parapet thatrunsaroundthecourtyard,deco- Gower, bishopfrom1327to1348. its final,imposingformowesmosttoHenry timeasthecathedral,but century, atthesame of church. themedieval Itwasbeguninthe12th is eloquenttestimony tothewealthandpower ited bynoisyjackdaws.Thescaleof thebuilding 11am-4pm SunNov-Mar) 9.30am-4pmMon-Sat, &Oct, 9.30am-5pmApr,May Jun-Sep, op’s Palace Across theriver fromthecathedrallies BISHOP’S PALACE archaeology scholar, isrecommended. ahistoryand The oneledbythedeanhimself, other times,tours canbearranged inadvance. 186 Monday, Tuesday,Thursday andFriday;at Its mostdistinctive feature isthearcaded atleasthalfadaytodojustice You’ll need The palacecourtyardprovides aspectacular The section fromPorthclaistoStJustinian The section ETPMRKSIE • tDvds(ydw) WEST PEMBROKESHIRE••StDavid’s(Tyddewi) ( % 720691; adult/child£4/1.20) (Cadw; adult/child£2.90/2.50; , avastandstatelyruininhab- at2.30pmon h 9.30am-6pm 9.30am-6pm guided Bish- camp site. tures Shakespeare attheBishop’s Palace, prose during thefirst inAugust,fea- twoweeks the year. are performedatthecathedralthroughout music inthecathedral.Many otherconcerts weekend attheendof May, withclassical Holidayculminating ontheSpringBank .org.uk/festivals.htm) The Festivals &Events Islandsee Ramsey p188 . School ( p189 ). can arrange surflessonswithWhitesandsSurf wetsuits, surfboardsandbodyboards, £45/85 forahalf-/full-day. kayaking androck- climbing trips,charging St) 1 High Adventure TYF OTHER ACTIVITIES 775323; Trefochlyd Farm, Croesgoch;per day£12) per day£5) y-Mor Inn Hire A 15-minute walk south of town (ontheright sitespertent, car&2people£9-12) www.caerfaibay.co.uk; breadcheese, andbasiccampingsupplies. an organic dairyfarmwhere youcanbuyfresh on views,set tent-only sitesea withfantastic per tent&2people£8-10; from £5) Glan-y-Mor Inn BUDGET Sleeping evening. and achoral Eucharist inthecathedral walk fromtheNationalPark VisitorCentre market andexhibitiononCrossSq,aguided dependent). the deanof thecathedral(dates are weather- judgedcompetition atWhitesandsBay, by asand-church programme. Augustalsosees readings, andaveryand poetry child-friendly only). Youcanrent bikes from St David’s. ter isontheA487road5milesnortheastof Caerfai Bay Caravan &Tent BayCaravan Park Caerfai Farm Caerfai The ofFor details boattripstoandaround Ma Sime’s Surf Hut Sime’sSurf Ma St David’sDay(1March) iscelebrated witha ( St David’s Cathedral Festival St David’sCathedral % This guesthouse hasabasictent-only This guesthouse St David’s Arts Festival St David’sArts organises coasteering, surfing, sea- 721911; 1 High St;perhalf-/full day£10/15) 721911; 1High Cycle Hire Pembrokeshire Pembrokeshire orCycleHire

( % Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 721788; www.glan-y-mor.co.uk; Rd; Caerfai

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Nun St;s/dfrom£30/55) ethdy, Whitesands;dm£11; St BridesBay. good facilitiesandgreat viewsacross coastal at theendof Rd),thislarge Caerfai site has Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com square, theOldCross offers old-fashioned inaleafygarden onthemain building set Sq; s/d£62/105; Old CrossHotel TOP END a session). boards here, take andeven surflessons (£20 You canhire wetsuits,surfboardsandbody family of five intothelargest. cansqueeze cue, hasthree doublerooms;a comfortable bar, completegardenand barbe- withbeer Rd;d£50-70) Caerfai Adventure, p186). (it’sownedbyTYF staff chilled, surf-dude bighealthybreakfasts (nofry-ups),and TVs), mattresses andcrispcottonsheets (butno has alaid-back vibe–roomswithcomfy creaky-floored corridors, theTwr-y-Felin wood-panelled lobby,marblefireplaces and old towerforsomestupendousviews)witha (once awindmill–youcanclimbupintothe Rd; s/d£40/80; good viewsover thecountryside. rooms attheback,which are quieter andhave cheerful atmosphere –askforoneof the guard officers, theAlandalehasabright, mealsaswellbreakfast. evening serving knick-knacks, andanattractive restaurant cosy lounge with‘mine-host’barandnaut ical smartly decorated butunfussy bedrooms,a feels more like alarge B&B,withsmallish, Y GlennyddHotel MIDRANGE local spotsforwalkingandbird-watching. doors onthebest enthusiasts,andcanadvise rooms (allensuite). Theowners are keen out- the mainstreet, BrynAwelhassmallbutcosy St;d£50) High beach pathatWhitesandsBay. andcoastal dorms intheoldcowsheds. tothe It’sclose withsnug of inaformerfarmhouse, town,isset tel, tuckedLlidi2milesnorthwest beneathCarn terraced house builtinthe1880sforcoast- terraced house Glan-y-Mor Inn Bryn Awel St David’s Youth Hostel St David’sYouthHostel Twr-y-Felin Hotel Alandale ( Apretty on littleterraced house p % p ( ( % % ) 720404; 43NunSt;s/d£33/65) Set inaramblingoldbuilding Set ) ( This friendly guesthouse and This friendlyguesthouse

Anattractive, ivy-cladstone % 720387; www.oldcrosshotel.co.uk; Cross 720082; www.brynawel-bb.co.uk; 45 ( % Thissmall,10-roomhotel ( % h 720576; www.yglennydd.co.uk; 51 721788; www.glan-y-mor.co.uk; Easter-Oct) 721678; www.tyf.com; Caerfai 721678; www.tyf.com; Caerfai (YHA; (YHA; % Theyouthhos- 0870 7706042;Lla- WESTPEMBROKESHIRE••StDavid’s(Tyddewi) Aneat floor toceiling withmore than100 varieties beware –theshelves in thisshopare stacked Chapel Chocolates Shopping go downonasummer’sevening. place towatchout back.It’sapleasant thesun garden and a goodbeer and Guinnessontap, ular pubsinthetown,Farmer’s hasreal ale pie isrecommended. bass. The signature andsea lamb, beef fish local produce,fromcrab andasparagusto ours Themenuisbigon andlowlighting. Sun) £20/25; gravy?). and truffle andparsnipleek steamed puddingwithherb some gourmetvegetarian choices (howabout specialsand touch, including localseafood gan’s turnsoutqualitycuisinewithaFrench lines andanairof big-citysophistication,Mor- £13-19; steak pies. such burgersmainstream aslasagne, stuff and of choice forvegetarians. The foodishearty, with highchairs andkidsmenus,plenty the Cartref isagoodfamily-friendly choice, £10-13) with aviewof thecloister andgarden. coffee upstairs andhomebaking.Grabatable two vegetarian dishes),aswellexcellent choice of sandwichesandhotdishes (atleast ish moderncaféhasalunch menuwitha 11am-4pm Nov-Mar) &Oct, Sep dral; mains£4-8; the walls,andcooltunesonsoundsystem. or tuckintocakes and Devonshire teas. Arton the placetoread thepapers over acappuccino, pine floors andbasketwork chairs, thiscaféis cute littlespace,withbutter-yellow walls,worn £3-5; Pebbles Yard Bar Espresso Eating &Drinking afternoon tea inthegarden. plush(ifunmemorable) roomsand service, restoration of thecathedralcloister, thisstyl- elegant andintimate spot,withcleanmodern atmosphere of withtheuse wood,warm col- ‘cosy’) lives uptoitsname,creating asnug Farmer’s Arms Cwtch Brasserie Morgan’s Restaurant Cartref atStDavid’s Refectory Cwtch (pronounced ‘cootch’; Welshfor h A bigbarnof aplaceonthemainsquare, h h 9am-5.30pm Jul&Aug, 10am-5.30pmSep-Jun) ( noon-2pm Fri-Sun, 6.30-10.30pmThu-Mon) noon-2pm Fri-Sun, 11am-2.30pm &6-9.45pmTue-Sat, noon-3pm % h 720491; 22 High St;2-/3-coursedinner 720491; 22High

(14 GoatSt) 10am-9pm Jul&Aug,10am-6pmApr-Jun, (The Pebbles) (The ( % ( % ( % ( % 720422; 22-23CrossSq;mains Oneof themostpop- Part of theongoing 720508; 20NunSt;mains 720122; ThePebbles; snacks 721760; StDavid’sCathe- Chocoholics

187

An A PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE gallery sells worksbylocalartists,aswell gallery sells away dwelling; thecoastpath isamere 100m main attractions at thisformerfisherman’s h Cottage Caleb’s SLEEPING &EATING Monday toSaturday). west andStDavid’s alsostopsatSolva (hourly here Haverford- insummer;bus411between courses. sailing and runsofficialRoyalYachting Association also rents (£20fortwohours) dinghies sailing with yacht for £65/110 (uptothree passengers) a three-hour/full-dayaboard24ft cruise pretty B&Bs,artgalleries,pubsandtearooms. painted,brightly flower-laden cottages housing yacht-filled inlet,itssinglestreet linedwith Lower Solvasitsattheheadof apicturesque, % Lower Solva DAVID’S ST AROUND all-day ticket is£2. areturnto September); ticket costs£1,an (hourlyEaster tinian andWhitesandsBeach St David’sPorthclais,Jus- toStNon’sBay, west (2½hours) andbackagain. and MilfordHaven (2¼hours) toHaverford- Haven (£2.20,50minutes), Dale(1¾hours) (30minutes), Broad minutes), NewgaleBeach times each day,fromStDavid’s toSolva(15 tle aroundthecoastthree (bus400/315)goes Monday toSaturday,onedailySunday). and toFishguard (50minutes, twohours every twohoursMonday toSaturday,every Sunday) from Haverfordwest (£3.50,45minutes, hourly Richards Brothers bus411runstoStDavid’s Getting There&Away inlocalorganicspecialises produce. whichpicnic suppliesatthisdelicatessen, and creative toysforkids. funky contemporary jewellery,handicrafts other confectionery. of handmadeWelsh chocolates, and truffles 188 a warm,country-cottage atmosphere are the The Celtic Coaster The Celtic (bus403)shuttles from Shut- thePuffin toSeptember, From Easter St David’sFood&Wine The Puffin Shuttle bus (see Shuttle bus(see The Puffin above ) calls If sailing takesIf sailing yourfancy,youcanenjoy Pebbles Yard Gallery Easter-Sep) 0147 /pop1420 Solva Sailboats . ETPMRKSIE • rudS ai’ WEST PEMBROKESHIRE••AroundStDavid’s Boldcolours, local artworksand ( % ( % 721737; 7 Main St;s/d£35/50; 721737; 7Main (Cross Sq) 720972; 1Maes-y-Forwen)

(High St) (High This dinkylittle Stockupon . It is an RSPB reserve famousforitslargeis anRSPB reserve breed- known astheBishopsandClerks.Theisland offshore armadaof rockyisletsandreefs andsurroundedbyan cliffs by dramaticsea IslandliesoffStDavid’s Head,Ramsey ringed Christianretreatbeside aclifftop centre. curative powers. Nearbyisamodernchapel tracts pilgrims,andthewater tohave isbelieved moment of StDavid’s birth.Theshrinestillat- sacred tohave springthatissaid emerged atthe 13th-century ruinsof path fromtheparkingarea leadsdowntothe andisnamedafterpatron saint, hismother. A St David’s, birthplaceof isthesupposed Wales’ This scenic bay,three-quarters of amilesouthof St Non’sBay lamb, anddecadenthomemadedesserts. Solva lobster andcrab, localorganic and beef inariversidedoor tables garden,andamenuof withacosycottage atmosphere,highlight, out- h B&B roomstoletupstairs (£25perperson). room; italsohasagiftshop, andhasacoupleof this snug,bare-stone-and-timber-beams tea- cakes andsumptuous Devonshire teas, headto 11am-5pmDec&Feb)6pm Mar-Oct, daily from ApriltoOctober, each allowing including landingfee); there are twotrips island (adult/child £14/7, trippers onRamsey operator permitted bytheRSPB tolandday- .thousandislands.co.uk; CrossSq, StDavid’s) and killerwhaleshave spotted. also been cies istheminke, butpilotwhales,finwhales whales.Themostcommon whalespe- seeing four outof five, andthere’s a40%chance of areonmosttrips,dolphins on Porpoises seen areand JulytotheSeptember thebestmonths. calm, clearconditionsare bestforsightings, depends ontheweatherandtimeof year; anddolphins.Whatyou’llsee whales, porpoises offshore, tospot totheedge Deep, of theCeltic David’s. Longer boattripsrunupto20miles tiny harbouratStJustinian,2mileswestof St pups. November, seal youwillalsosee you’re here late between Augustandmid- of thecrowfamily–andforitsgrey If seals. with distinctive red billsandlegs,members ing populationof choughs –glossyblack birds Thousand IslandsExpeditions Thousand Old Pharmacy House Old Printing You canreach theislandbyboatfrom 5.30-10pm) Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com This is the village’s gastronomic This isthevillage’s gastronomic ( % ( 720005; 5 Main St;mains£8-20; 720005; 5Main % , passing a St Non’sChapel,passinga 721603; 20 Main St; 721603; 20Main Forhomemade ( % is theonly 721721; www h 9am- lonelyplanet.com including equipment.You canbooklessons beach; costs£25, a2½-hourbeginner’s session sandssurfschool.co.uk) beach at to 15minutes tothesmaller,more secluded pathfor10 by walkingnorthalongthecoastal is –youcanescapetheworst of thecrowds remains of aprehistoric forest. that wentagroundhere in1882,andthefossil thewrecktide youcansee of apaddletugboat and apopularsurfingspot.Atextremely low Mawr) isoneof southwestWales’bestbeaches, The mile-longstrandof (Porth WhitesandsBay Whitesands Bay St,StDavid’s) Hotel, High bia St,StDavid’s) .ramseyisland.co.uk; 1High ing one-hourjet-boat trips(£18/10). around GrassholmIsland(£50/25),andexcit- hour whale-anddolphin-spottingcruises boat(£30/15),three- inflatable by high-speed andotherislands hour tripsaroundRamsey three hours ontheisland.Italsorunstwo- Whitesands Surf School Surf Whitesands Voyages ofDiscovery If Whitesandsisreally busy –anditoften distance is3.5miles;allowtwohours. Farm.through Porthmawr At themainroad,turnrighttoreturn Total toWhitesands carpark. house wayouttoseaistheSmalls. of theBishopsandClerksand,onaclearday,coastIreland onthehorizon.The talllight- inWhitesands andSkomerIslands,therocksreefspanoramic viewthattakes Bay,Ramsey The summitofCarn Llidi (181m)liesafew hundred east.Here metres youcanenjoya further left towardsthesummitofhill,whichiscappedwithremains ofaWWIIradarstation. path onthefarsideuntilitlevels outontheshoulderofCarn Hen,thenheadsteeply uptothe (there maybewildponiesgrazinghere). Crossthetinystream andclimbuphillonthedogleg thatdescendsintoashallowvalleybut bearrightonabroadpaththroughheatherandbracken map), thendescendtowhere thepathforks. The leftalongtheclifftops, maincoastalpathstrikes you willfindaNeolithicburialchamberknownas resolves intotwooutcrops;gopastthesmallerone(onyourright),andbehindit,toright, heather, aimingatthemiddleofalong,lowrockyoutcroponskyline. As yougetcloser,it and choughssoaringonthebreeze above thecliffs. –insummeryoucanseegannetsdivingintotheseaoffshore,picnic orabitofwildlife-spotting ledges,agreatof ancienthuts. placefora The tipoftheheadlandisaseriesrockandturf tofindthreejumbled stonesofanIronAge oval rampart ringsoflarge rocks,thefoundations to path. After passingthe secluded littlebeachat Begin alongthecoastal attheWhitesands Baycarpark(£2.50perinsummer)andheadnorth ST DAVID’S HEAD WALK ( % . This promontory was fortified inprehistoricSt David’sHead.This times,andyoupassthroughthe promontorywasfortified Go down the old road from the radar station and follow it as it curves leftanddescendsGo downtheoldroadfromradarstationandfollowitascurves Continue alongthecoastalpath,climbinggentlyuntilyoureach 76monOS acairn(marked andfollowtheobviousbroad,grassypaththrough Return tothegapinrampart, 720471; www.aquaphobia-ramseyisland.co.uk; Grove . Porthmelgan NORTH PEMBROKESHIRE••StDavid’stoFishguard NORTH runs surfinglessons onthe offer similartrips. ( % ( % 720285, 0800854367;www 07789 435670;www.white andAquapho- , the path curves leftandleadsout, thepathcurves Porthmelgan David’s. age ‘bins’ are allthat remain. sturdy stone quaysandovergrown brickstor- post-WWI slump burst thebubble,and the mapasasource of buildingstone. The deposits of granite and fineclayhadputiton coast atAbereiddy, andbythe1870s itsown for shipping outslate quarriedjustdownthe 19th centuryitbegantoprosperas theport tages wedged intoarockycove. Inthemid- consisted of littlemore thanafew sturdycot- For centuriesthetinyharbourof Porthgain % Porthgain totackle. this isanexcellentsection to walkpartof thePembrokeshire CoastPath, mostly inaccessiblebycar. Ifyou’re onlygoing and westPembrokeshire, itscoves andbeaches (and beyond)islessfrequented thansouth The coastlinefromStDavid’s toFishguard ST DAVID’STOFISHGUARD NORTH PEMBROKESHIRE at (Arthur’s Quoit). (Arthur’s Coetan Arthur Ma Sime’s Surf Hut Sime’sSurf Ma 01348 ( % 720433; 28 High St) 720433; 28High inSt

189 PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE ; dm£13) Llanrhian; place for seal-watching, withtherocky sum- place for seal-watching, cove, agood ofscenic, cliff-bound PwllDeri wildlife. a shelter forobserving as ing area isaWWIIlookout thatnowserves spotting whalesanddolphins;below thepark- The headlandmakes agoodvantage pointfor past ontheirwayfromFishguard toRosslare. ferries catamaran thunder huge, high-speed signal of asthe 15seconds fourflashesevery point toIreland,beams outits alighthouse At wildandrocky bass,gurnard,mulletandsquid. sea menu listsPorthgain crab andlocallycaught brokeshire’s restaurants; the finestseafood harbour, theShed hasgrownintooneof Pem- converted machinebythelittle shopright tearoom 10am-4.30pm) lunch £10-17,dinner£20-23; steaks and homemadelasagne. crab,Welshbeef- , locallycaught mariniéres excellentmeals,including and serves up breakfast (to11am)tohungrywalkers, popularpub.Itdishes cosy anddeservedly cal clutter allover theplace,Sloopisa its industrialheyday,andinteresting nauti- a bendedelbow,oldphotosof Porthgain in wornsmoothbymany With woodentables hire isavailable anddogsare welcome. yard, withgreat viewsalongthecoast.Bike lent independenthostel inanoldfarmcourt- southeast of Porthgain, isanexcel- Caerhafod Path. of Trefin, halfamileinlandfromtheCoast in thecentre of thevillage, istwomileseast smartly refurbished formerschool building dm £11; YouthHostel Trefin SLEEPING &EATING Monday toSaturday). twohoursLlanrhian, amileinland(every The 411StDavid’s–Fishguard busstopsat and restaurants. today itishometoacoupleof artgalleries Porthgain issurprisinglypicturesque and 190 h Sloop Inn Porthgain is8milesnortheastof StDavid’s. Despite having anindustrialharbour, been Two milessouth of theheadlandis Shed WineBar&Bistro Caerhafod Lodge Caerhafod 9.30am-11pm, lunchnoon-2.30pm,dinner6-9.30pm) OT EBOEHR • Fsgad(brwu) PEMBROKESHIRE••FishguardNORTH (Abergwaun) h Easter-Oct) About three-quarters of amile ( % (YHA; (YHA; ThisYHA ina hostel, set 831449; Porthgain; mains£6-8; 831449; Porthgain; ( Housed inabeautifully Housed % Strumble Head,thenearest % 837859; www.caerhafod.co.uk; ( h % 0870 7706074;Fford-y-Afon; noon-3pm &6-11.30pm, 831518; Porthgain; mains 831518; Porthgain; moules

Pembrokeshire walksandhistory. ofbookletson series books andmaps,anentertaining internet access. 1pm Mon-Sat,2-5pmMon,Tue 2-6.30pmThu)Free &Fri, £2) Internet access. h 10am-4pmMon-Sat Nov-Easter) &Oct, May h Fishguard issplitintothree distinctareas. The Orientation p193). the boxed Invasionof text Britain, theLast for thelastforeign invasionof (see Britain classic Moby Gregory Dickstarring Peck. It alsofeatured (forallof twominutes) inthe Burton, Peter O’TooleandElizabeth Taylor. film version of UnderMilk Woodwith Richard forthe1971 asasetting harbour, wasused and countryside. plenty of interest inthesurroundingcoast Ireland. Butit’sanappealinglittletown,with ontheirwaytoorfrom them passingthrough bour, isoften overlooked bytravellers, mostof its modernferry portandformerfishing har- Fishguard, perched onaheadlandbetween % FISHGUARD (ABERGWAUN) asfarStDavid’s. cliffs panoramaof withanimmense coastal sunset overlookingcliff perfectly placedfor the sea, a stunninglocationperched atopa120m-high ; dm£11; 6004; CastellMawr, Tourist Office Tourist Office Tourist Bookshop Seaways Post Office Police Station Health Centre Fishguard Library Information wick (Wdig;pronouncedoo-dick). to thenorthwestof thetowncentre inGood- andferryThe trainstation terminal lieamile the picturesque harbourof theLowerTown. Market Sq,where stop;totheeastis thebuses west of theriver mouth, andiscentred on main townsitsontopof headland araised rising above it. Fawrmit of Garn , toppedbyanIronAge fort, Little This area wasalsotheimprobable setting The LowerTown,nexttotheoldfishing 10am-6pm Easter-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Easter; perhr 10am-6pm Easter-Oct, 10am-5pm Mon-SatEaster- 10am-5.30pm Jun-Sep, 01348 /pop3200 YouthHostel Pwll Deri (WestSt) Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com ( ( ( ( % % % % ( 874737; OceanLab,Goodwick; Sq; 873484; TownHall,Market 872835; BrodogLane) % 873041; Ropewalk) (12 West St) Selection oflocal (12WestSt)Selection 872694; High St; 872694; High h (YHA; (YHA; Easter-Oct) h % 9.30am- 0870 770 enjoys the placehasturnedintosomethingof an Invasionoftext, Britain, theLast p193 ), and of theFrench surrendertheboxed in1797(see The Sights lonelyplanet.com a café. the mammothskeleton, asoft playarea and various hands-onexhibits,aswellOscar environment. Aimedmainlyatkids,ithas Nov-Easter) 10am-4pm 6pm Jul&Aug,10am-5pmEaster-Jun, &Oct; Sep Nicholas. be foundthegrave of localheroineJemima In theparishchurchyard behindthepubcan filledwithmemorabilia.invasion museum, houses anexhibitiononmarinelifehouses andthe Inn (0.1mi) To Ferryboat Goodwick FISHGUARD

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w a u n PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE bland looking ontheoutside, theFerryboat has Way, Goodwick; s/d£45/65; and gofromthecomfort of anarmchair. room, where youcanwatch theboats come are large theturret andluxurious–choose furniture andthe bedrooms andhistoricdetail, the harbour. isfilledwithantique Thehouse by SirEvan Jones,thearchitect whodesigned views, Pentower wasbuiltontopof TowerHill s/d £40/60) across theoldharbour. big roomsatthebackwithgorgeous views Askyou cansitintheevenings. foroneof the flowers, andhasalovely gardenterrace where polished mahoganyandthescentof fresh St;rperperson£33-40) .com; Main is ensuite, andhasadoublesinglebed. albeit lackinginatmosphere. Thefamilytriple St; s/d/tr£20/45/55) walks, pubsandeateries inthearea. and ishappytopointyoutowardsthebest sauna. TheownerknowsPembrokeshire well, lounge, laundryand dorms, akitchen, TV homey andrelaxed hostel withsmall,six-bed ton St;dm/d/tr£14/36/48; ( overlooking thesea. 2.5 mileseastof town,perched onaheadland £11-17; sitespertent,car&2people Gelli; www.fishguardbay.com; Garn Park &Camping Fishguard BayCaravan Sleeping .uk) Fishguard FolkFestival in town. classical concertsandchoirs whoopingitup ofplace inthelastweek July,withvarious The Festivals &Events for more experiencedpaddlers. instruction courses andguidedkayakingtours (£10)forbeginners,aking sessions aswell berrykayaking.co.uk) 192 House has bright, smartlydecorated hasbright, rooms, House day weekend attheendof May. Georgian house iswarmwiththeglowofGeorgian house % Hamilton Guest House & Backpackers Lodge Hamilton GuestHouse&Backpackers Kayaking Mayberry Mike Ferryboat Inn Pentower TownHouse Manor Avon House There’s musicof anotherkindduringthe , which isheldover Holi- theSpringBank 874797; www.hamiltonbackpackers.co.uk; 21Hamil- International Music Festival Music International OT EBOEHR • Fsgad(brwu) PEMBROKESHIRE••FishguardNORTH (Abergwaun) h Another place that boasts fantastic sea sea Anotherplacethatboastsfantastic Mar-Dec) ( % ( % ( % offers one-hour‘tryitout’kay- 874462; www.pentower.co.uk; TowerHill; Adecentbudget B&B,Avon Thissitepath isonthecoastal 874476; www.avon-house.co.uk; 76 High 874476; www.avon-house.co.uk; 76High 874747; www.ferryboatinn.co.uk; Manor 874747; www.ferryboatinn.co.uk; Manor (

% (www.pembrokeshire-folk-music.co ip p 873260; www.manortownhouse ) ( % TheHamilton isa ) Although a touch atouch Although 874699; www.mikemay

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summer (intheMarket Hall inwinter). Saturdayin second Somerfield carparkevery on fresh localproduce,simplyprepared. looking theharbour,andabistromenufocused touches, withoutdoordiningonaterrace over- a denof designerfurniture andcontemporary converted hasbeen Georgian townhouse into are welcometojoinin. live onTuesdaywhere folknight musicians the bestpubfoodintownandhostsapopular place inFishguard’s history,butitalsoserves thispubhaveNot onlydoes animportant has asit-incoffee shop(openfrom10am). place, theOrange baguettes Treetasty and sells Mon-Sat) Orange Tree Eating &Drinking with four-poster views(£95). bedsandsea ble andtwobunkbeds,adeluxe double There’s alarge familyroom(£99)withadou- ing theshootfor the bay,andiswhere thefilmcrew dur- stayed old-fashioned hotel hasexcellentviewsover vast andramblingmansionof aplace,this guard.co.uk; QuayRd,Goodwick;s/dfrom£54/75; 500m fromferry andtrainstation. andchocolate-browntaupe décor,andisonly modernandstylish bedroomswithtrendy sleek, Sunday) and Cardigan (£3,40minutes). Sunday) and Cardigan minutes, hourlyMonday toSaturday, twoon Sunday); the412 runs toHaverfordwest (40 hours Monday to Saturday,twoorthree from StDavid’s (£3, 50minutes, two every Richards Brothers’ bus411runstoFishguard Getting There&Away Sq) (Market ket Thursday is heldevery inthe field supermarket changed abit). outside (thestreet andnearbyquayhave not of Richard Burtonfilming memorabilia onthewalls,includingphotos pub withanopenfire inwinter andlotsof dishes togourmetseafood. pasta standard fresh cuisine,rangingfrom Italian serves glinting offpolishedwoodfloors, Basilico ish andintimate littleplacewithcandlelight To stockupongroceries,headforthe Ship Inn Basilico Bar Five Royal OakInn Fishguard BayHotel A delicatessen and takeaway sandwich andtakeaway Adelicatessen , andthere’s aFarmers Market inthe ( % ( % Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com (Newport Rd) (Newport (11 High St;snacks£2-3; (11 High 871845; 3 Main St;mains£10-13) 871845; 3Main 875050; 5 Main St;mains£7-12) 875050; 5Main (High St). (High ( % Under Milk Woodin1971. 872514; Market Sq;mains£6-13) 872514; Market ( % A general producemar- This isalovely little 873571; www.bayhotelfish Under Milk Wood h Market Hall Market 8am-5.30pm Astyl- p Somer- This ) A

Swansea and Carmarthen. Fishguard Harbour andCarmarthen. Swansea a slowertrain(2¾hours) thatalsocallsinat (£16, 2¼hours) viaLlanelli;onSundaythere’s toFishguard Harbourtrain adayfromCardiff lonelyplanet.com narrow, woodedcleft,bestexplored onfootor gwine), thevalleyof theRiver Gwaun.This guard isCwm a mileaway. Invasion of Britain, below ), three-quarters of theLast of theinfamous1797invasion(see of thefootpathto gate withayellowwaymarkindicates thestart of atonsured monk’shead. carving isa15th-century (door) end,facingthealtar, at thefarendof thethirdbeamfromwest walls. Inside,lookupatthetimberroof beams; intothe designs,set andCeltic with crosses stones,inscribed pre-Normanseveral carved churchmedieval of Two milesnorthwestof Goodwickliesthetiny AROUND FISHGUARD Goodwick andFishguard Harbour. runs aregular circuit fromMarket Sqto MondaytoSaturday) Bus 410(half-hourly Getting Around p324. port, tickets onboardthetrain. isjustaplatformwithnofacilities;buy station From MondaytoSaturdaythere’s onedirect Across thelanefromchurch, awooden Running inlandtothesoutheastof Fish- ofFor details ferries toIreland,Trans- see corded the Norman invasion at Hastings in 1066) is displayed in the Town Hall on Market Sq. corded the Normaninvasion atHastingsin1066) isdisplayedinthe TownHallonMarket volunteers ofa30mtapestry.The and were sentofftothejailat Haverfordwest. Oak Inn.Amere twodaysafter theirarrival,theinvaderslaiddownweapons atGoodwick mercenaries armedwithnothingmore thanapitchfork. of Fishguard, captured 12 includingmostfamously,oneJemimaNicholas,who single-handedly French were quicklyseenoffbyvolunteer ‘yeoman’ soldiers,thehelpersincludedpeople pillaging but,notsurprisingly,theirdrunken fervour didn’tendearthemtothelocals,and the up asteep cliff,theysetaboutlootingthePencaer peninsulaforfoodanddrink. invasion ofIreland. Butbadweatherblewthemashore atCarregwastad, where after scrambling land atBristolandmarchtoLiverpool, EnglishtroopsoccupiedwhileFrancemounted keeping an ledbyanIrish-AmericannamedColonel Tate,mercenaries andbailedconvicts, hadintended to ofFishguard,wastad Point,northwest on22February 1797.The of1400French ragtag collection While Hastingsin1066maygetallthepress, atCarreg- the lastinvasionofBritainwasactually THE LASTINVASION OFBRITAIN In 1997Fishguard commemorated the bicentenary oftheinvasion withthecreation by76local The beleaguered Tate decidedtosurrender atameetinginhouseFishguard, nowtheRoyal The invadershadhopedthattheEnglishpeasantswould riseuptojointheminrevolutionary NORTH PEMBROKESHIRE••AroundFishguard NORTH Gwaun (pronouncedcoom Llanwnda Carregwastad Point,thesite Carregwastad ( % 24hr) Fishguard Tapestry (inspired bytheBayeuxTapestry, which re- , which has , which has 881305; ) Mawr) across theriver. dwarfed byNewport Sands (Traeth rog Beach, the northwestcornerof thetownislittlePar- get crowdedinsummer.Hills, butitdoes At pathorsouthintothePreselialong thecoastal tronomic resort). (a Cornish fishingvillage turnedtrendy gas- toutedhas been asWales’answertoPadstow of itsrestaurants Newport andguesthouses; years hasgainedareputation forthequality sideof thePreseliseaward Hills,andinrecent at thefootof Ingli,amassive bumponthe Carn huddled beneathasmallNormancastle. Itsits is apretty cluster of flower-bedecked cottages port inGwent,thePembrokeshire Newport contrasttotheindustrialcityofIn stark New- % NEWPORT (TREFDRAETH) and Saturday). fryn Arms(20minutes, twodailyTuesday Dragon busfromNewportstopsattheDyf- barrel; nohandpumpshere! fromthe fromajugfilledstraight your beer old-fashioned pubwhere thelandladypours celebrate NewYear on13January. rest of in1752),which Britain meansthatthey for theJuliancalendar(abandoned bythe Famously, retain theinhabitants asoft spot bicycle, feels strangely remote andmysterious. From May thePreseli Green toSeptember, Newport makes a pleasant base forwalks Newport makes base apleasant Stop forapintattheDyffrynArms 01239 /pop1120 , better known as Bessie’s, arare , better knownasBessie’s, ( %

01348-

193 PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE £10/15 per half-/full day. £10/15 per half-/full Food Shop onthemainstreet, withrates from Hire Bike Wales. Youcan rent abike from the loveliest on-road cycling insouthwest IngliandCwmGwaun,offer someofCarn The backroadssouthof Newport,around CYCLING round trip). of andDinasHead NewportBay (3.5miles site of anIronAge hillfort,withgreat views way upongrassypaths tothesummit, leading ontotheopenhillside. Workyour a coupleof to reach farmsandhouses agate (uphill),followingnarrowtrackspast go right AtaforkinthelanecalledCollegeright. Sq, then Church Stuphill,pastthecastleonyour to thesummitfromtown–take Market St Ingli(347m).Youcanclimb walks aroundCarn Sands. the shoreline beach tothesandy of the bridge andturnleftforaneasywalkalong a haven for birdlife especiallyinwinter. Cross come toanironbridge over the If youkeep you walking pastCarreg Coetan WALKING Activities Pen-y-Bont ontheleft. it’s northeastof thecentre, about200malong intown; Coetanright chamber) calledCarreg tricity needs. that generates upto40%of thecentre’s elec- building hasaphotovoltaic arrayontheroof and resource centre; stone theenergy-efficient 4.30pm Mon-Fri) centre.org.uk; St;admissionfree; LowerStMary’s town. up aroundthecastle,initiallyasagarrison out of in1191.Newport grew nearbyNevern –after hisfather-in-lawGruffydd drove him apmarried toadaughterof LordRhys man calledWilliamFitzMartin –whowas residence) wasfoundedbyaNormannoble- The striking Sights the mainstreet. opposite themaincarpark,ablocknorthof 2 BankCottages,LongSt; 194 There’s alittledolmen(Neolithicburial There’s a There are lotsof finepossibilitiesforlonger The OT EBOEHR • Nwot(rfreh (Trefdraeth) PEMBROKESHIRE••Newport NORTH West WalesEcoCentre ( % National Park Visitor Centre National Park Visitor 820773; EastSt) is an environmental education isanenvironmental (nowaprivate Castle Newport h 10am-6pm Mon-SatEaster-Oct) , based intheWhole , based ( % Nevern Estuary, Nevern 820235; www.eco

( h % Newport Newport Newport Newport 9.30am- 820912;

serves tasty lunch tasty dishessuch asgalettes, serves country-pine-and-terracotta-tile look,and meddyg.com; EastSt;d£90; chairs anddesignerlampshades. iron fireplaces cheek-by-jowl withhighback and modern,withwoodpanellingcast- Valley.Nevern Thedécorblendstraditional lookingoutoverstunning hillsidesetting the Rd), SoarHillisa200-year-old witha house St,which becomesCilgwyn (head upBentick s/d £40/70; and agoodrestaurant (mains£8to£14). real ales, traditional barwithlogfire, serving this appealingcountryinn.There’s alsoasnug arrangements make forawarmatmosphere in golden pinefurniture andcolourfulflower .co.uk; EastSt;s/d£40/60) ing thedayfrom10amto5pm. the beach andthetowncentre. dur- It’sclosed thishostelCentre, ishandyfortheCoastPath, St;dm£12.50; Lower StMary’s mouth toNewportSands. west of thetown,withviewsacrossriver grassysitepleasant overlooks thebeach north- rog Beach;sitespercar,tent&2people£6.50-8.50) Park &Camping Morawelon Caravan Sleeping mains £14-19) traditional roastlunch onSundays. includes hotbuttered lobster. a It alsodoes ing lunch dishes that menuof local seafood lattescaffe andherbaltea, andhasatempt- and wineaswell beer Morawelon serves closedNov) Mar, £8-15; excellent coffee andcakes. crepes, as well panini,soupsandsalads, 8pm) Fleur Café Eating &Drinking town toeat. at theback.It’salsooneof thebestplacesin fireplace, andthere’s ahuge,garden secluded the lounge boastsleathersofas andaperiod are largewith antiques.Bedrooms andbright, has been beautifullyrestoredhas been andfurnished Georgian coaching inn,the‘Doctor’sCourt’ a converted Victorianschool nexttotheEco Llys Meddyg Restaurant Llys Meddyg GuestHouse Llys Meddyg Soar Hill Golden LionHotel YouthHostel Trefdraeth Morawelon Café Bar Morawelon Café This popular café goes fortherustic Thispopularcafégoes h 10am-5pm Apr-Oct, 10am-5pmWed-SunDec- 10am-5pm Apr-Oct, p ( % Fromthe slate floor andleather ( Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com % ) Downbythetownbeach, the Half amilesoutheastof town 820131; Market St;mains£4-6; 820131; Market 820506; www.soarhilll.com; CilgwynRd; 820506; www.soarhilll.com;

( % ( i Bright, sunnydécor, Bright, % 820321; www.goldenlionpembs h ) (YHA; (YHA; 820565; TheParrog; mains Housed inalovely Housed Easter-Oct)

( ( % % % 820008; www.llys 820008; East St; ( % 0870 7706072; Housed in Housed 820565; Par- h This 10am- from zestyThai-stylecrabcakes withchilli and andreflectingseasons thebestof localproduce, food issuperb,withthemenuchanging withthe elegant diningroom,thisplaceoozesstyle. The armchairs inthebartomodernart lonelyplanet.com ( return point. toyourstarting waelod andCwm-yr-Eglwys allowsyouto Pwllg- point; apathacross theneckbetween atDinasHead, cliffs high thenorthernmost and dolphinsfromthe142m- spotting seals makes anexcellentwalk,withthechance of Church, destroyedbythegreat stormof 1859. theruinof 12th-centuryStBrynach’s can see totheeast,where you inlet of Cwm-yr-Eglwys strand of Pwllgwaelodtothewest,androcky either sidebypicturesque coves –thesandy to themainlandbyaneckof land,framedon Newport. It’snotreally anisland,butisattached Fishguardjuts outfromthecoastbetween and The great wedge-shaped profile of Dinas Island AROUND NEWPORT advance; askthetouristofficefordetails. atleastanhourin tobookaseat You need hills (twodailyTuesdayandSaturdayonly). Gwaun andthebackroadsaroundPreseli bus runsfromNewporttoCrymych viaCwm Dragon and Saturday). only(three dailyMonday, ThursdayCardigan rest of Newportand theyearitrunsbetween roads viaMoylgrove andPoppitSands.The (three daily),but takesand Cardigan theback bus 405alsorunsfromNewporttoFishguard (20minutes). Cardigan day toSaturday,twoonSunday)and guard toNewport(15minutes, hourlyMon- Richards Brothers’ bus412runsfromFish- Getting There&Away calorie-packed steamed marmaladepudding. chowderfood fromthechunkyto seafood relaxed. Themenuishome-cooked comfort isfriendlyand linen tablecloths, buttheservice Llys Meddyg, andcrispwhite withcandlelight & Tue) dinner £22/28; coriander tosucculentmarinated lamb. % Stop for lunch or a pintatthe The circuitof theheadland(3.5miles) From May the toSeptember thePoppitRocketFrom ApriltoSeptember, Cnapan CountryHouse 01348-811491) TheCnapanhasamore formallookthan ( % h 0845 6027008;www.prta.co.uk) noon-2pm & 6.45-8.45pm, closed Sun lunch noon-2pm &6.45-8.45pm,closedSunlunch atPwllgwaelod, aformer NORTH PEMBROKESHIRE••AroundNewport NORTH

( % 820575; East St; 2-/3-course 820575; EastSt;2-/3-course Preseli Green Green Preseli Old Sailors walkers’ Wales, Pentre Ifanis a 4500-year-old Neolithic The largest dolmenin and best-preserved Pentre Ifan ancient script. Celtic indecipheringthemeaning of an tal ogham, andwasinstrumen- andogham, in bothLatin stonesthatbears aninscription the few carved It isoneofa windowsillinthesouthtransept. todatethought fromthe5thcentury, forms Day (7April). sofromatopthis crossonStBrynach’s does cuckoo thatsingseach yearinPembrokeshire 11th century.Accordingtotradition,thefirst interlace patterns anddatingfromthe10thor one of thefinestinWales,decorated with century, predating thechurch. choly churchyard dates fromaroundthe6th thatoozesfromit.Thebeautifullymelan- sap yew, namedafter thecuriousreddish-brown asyouenterright istheso-calledbleeding onthe mated to be sixcenturiesold;second a supremely gloomyalleyof yewtrees, esti- You approach theChurchofStBrynachalong port makes agoodobjective for aneasywalk. church, thislittlevillage 2mileseastof New- With itsovergrown castleandatmospheric Nevern (Nanhyfer) book inadvance. stove; mealscanbeprovided evening ifyou withalogfirea modernhouse andRayburn www.moylegrove.co.uk; Moylgrove;rperpersonfrom£26) mile inlandisSwn-y-NantB&B byacavernhole caused collapse. sea-filled , avastcliff-ringed, Witches’ Cauldron walk southalongthecoastpathleadsto tothesouth.Ahalf-mile stacks ple of sea tothenorthandacou- with contorted cliffs summer, makes agreat picnic spot. pinksin near theroadend,carpeted withsea a mazeof very narrowroads.Agrassyplatform near thetinyhamletof Moylgrove, reached via inletofat thescenic,seal-haunted one spotwhere acarorbike cangetis close isaccessibleonlyonfoot.The and Cardigan Most of the15milesof Newport coastbetween and crab, andhasoutdoortables. fresh lobster haunt of DylanThomas;itserves Inside thechurch, the There A Bay. are nofacilitiesatCeibwr sceneryhereThe coastal isspectacular, Among thegravestones isatall Maglocunus Stone, Maglocunus ( % 01239-881244; Ceibwr Bay, Ceibwr Celtic cross, Celtic 195

, PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE 196 summer since1981,andhave learnedenough have andsiftingatthesite digging every been the University of Yorkarchaeology department of (Castle thePrince’sCourt). Studentsfrom Henllys atwhat’snowcalledCastell settlement Some 2000years agothere wasathrivingCeltic Castell Henllys signposted. port, onaminorroadsouthof theA487;it’s at Stonehenge. forthemenhirs bluestonethatwasused same three pointed,stones,madeof tall, upright the more on than16tonnes,isdelicately poised Thehuge, to sea. 5m-longcapstone,weighing superb viewsacrossthePreseli Hillsandout burial chamber onaremote set hillsidewith The site is about4milessoutheastof New- (7.5 miles),where youcancatchtheafternoon busbacktoNewport. alongtheGoldenRoadtocarparkatBwlchGwyntonB4329hills, allowingyoutohike along thecrest ofMynyddPreseli, passingprehistoric cairnsandthestonecircleofBeddArthur. called the years ago,where theywere discovered bytheprehistoric hengebuilders. dumped around40milestothewestofStonehengesite bythemeltingicesome12,000 to analternative theorythatthebluestoneswerebyIceAge transported actually glaciers,and just afew milesintotheseajourney. resorted to theuseofalorry,craneandmodernroads,stoneslippedfromitsraftsank bluestonefromPreseli asingle,three-tonne toStonehenge.transport They failed–havingalready River Avon, thenoverland againtoSalisburyPlain. Cleddau, thencarriedthembybarge Haven, fromMilford alongtheBristolChannelandup builders ofStonehenge,andthattheylaboriouslydraggedthesemonolithsdowntotheRiver long beenoftheopinionthatPreseli andthebluestonesheldsomereligious significanceforthe Carnmenyn andCarn Goedog attheeastern endofMynyddPreseli. Stonehengescholarshave of 240miles–isonethegreat mysteries oftheancientworld. around fourtonnes,andhowtheywere fromPreseli transported toSalisburyPlain–adistance and are famousasthesourceofmysterious bluestonesofStonehenge. fascinating prehistoric landscape,scattered standingstonesandburialchambers, withhillforts, Preseli), risingto536matFoelCwmcerwyn,thehighestpoint.These hillsare atthecentre ofa The onlyuplandarea inthePembrokeshire CoastNationalPark isthe MYSTERY OFTHEBLUESTONES NORTH PEMBROKESHIRE •• Around Newport PEMBROKESHIRE••AroundNewport NORTH The Preseli Green Dragonbus(see p195 ) willdropyouatCrymychtheeastern endofthe Whatever thetruth,Preseli country.Anancienttrack hillsprovide someexcellentwalking However, research publishedintheOxfordJournalofArchaeology thisjourney, usingprimitive technologyIn 2000agroupofvolunteers to triedtore-enact Geochemical analysisshowsthattheStonehengebluestonesoriginated fromoutcropsaround There are 31bluestonemonoliths(plus 12‘stumps’)atthecentre ofStonehenge,eachweighing Golden Road , once part ofa5000-year-old traderoute, oncepart betweenWessexandIreland, runs Henllys. where it’sathree-quarter-mile walk toCastell 412 andget offattheMelina Rdstop,from Take bus thehourlyNewporttoCardigan tolife. thatbringthesettlement events festivals andother craft demonstrations,Celtic store. There are IronAge breeds of livestock, animalpens,asmithyandgrain houses, buildings–fourthatchedsettlement’s round- back intime. There are reconstructions of the adult/child £3/2; ( ceremonies andagriculturallife of thattime. abouttheclothing,tools, with educated guesses tlement onitsoriginalfoundations,complete to buildaremarkable re-creation of theset- % A visitto HenllysCastell is4mileseastof Newport. 01239-891319; www.castellhenllys.com; Farchog; h Castell Henllys Iron Age Settlement HenllysIronAge Castell 10am-5pm Apr-Oct) in 2006 lends new support in2006lendsnewsupport

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© LonelyPlanetPublications 197 © Lonely Planet Publications 196 www.lonelyplanet.com 197 Duration 15 days Distance 186 miles Difficulty moderate–demanding Start Amroth Finish Nearest Towns Tenby ( p165 ), Cardigan ( p207 ) Transport train, bus Summary Straddling the line where Wales drops suddenly into the sea, this is one of the most spectacular routes in Britain.

The rugged Pembrokeshire coast is what you would imagine the world would look like if God was a geology teacher. There are knobbly hills of volcanic rock, long thin inlets scoured by glacial meltwaters, and stratified limestone pushed up vertically and eroded into natural arches, blowholes and sea stacks. Stretches of towering red and grey cliff give way to perfect sandy beaches, only to resume around the headland painted black. The Pembrokeshire Coast Path (PCP) was established in 1970, and takes you from popular holiday spots to long stretches where the only evidence of human existence are the ditches of numerous Celtic forts. In the south, Norman dominate many towns and villages, and once held the Celts at bay, creating a frontier that still exists today in the (see p32 ). The landscape allows for all kinds of outdoor pursuits, whether they are rock climbing, kayaking, surfing or stretching out on a towel with a trashy novel. Marine life is plentiful, and rare birds make the most of the remote cliffs, with peregrine falcons, red kites, buzzards, choughs, puffins and gan- nets to be spotted. It’s not all nature and beauty, however. Several military installations require long detours along roads, and two whole days are dominated by the heavy industry of Milford Haven. Still, other manmade structures redeem our impact somewhat – beautiful St David’s with its delicate cathedral, haughty Pembroke Castle and the pastel-shaded cottages of Tenby.

PLANNING We’ve suggested a south-to-north route, allowing an easy start in highly populated areas to build up to longer, more isolated stretches where you’ll need to carry food with you. Some distances look deceptively short, but you must remember the endless steep ascents and descents where the trail crosses harbours and beaches. Referring to a tide table is essential if you want to avoid lengthy delays on a couple of sections. The weather can be quite changeable, so bring wet-weather gear and some- thing warm, even in the height of summer. During the school holidays it pays to book ahead, as B&Bs, hostels and camp sites fill up quickly. Between White- sands and Fishguard, sleeping and eating options are especially limited.

When to Walk In spring and early summer, wildflowers transform the route with an ex- plosion of colour, and migratory birds are likely to be seen. The height of summer will tend to be dryer and more conducive to enjoying the numerous beaches on the route. Other mid- to late-summer advantages include migrat- ing whales, flocks of butterflies and plenty of wild blackberries to snack on – a good payoff for walking in the heat. As you head into autumn, seals come 198 PEMBROKESHIRE COAST PATH •• Maps & Guides lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com PEMBROKESHIRE COAST PATH •• The Walk 199

ashore to give birth to their pups. Winter is generally more problematic, as many hostels and camp sites close from October until Easter, and buses are Day From To Miles less frequent. Needless to say, walking around precipitous cliffs in the wind, rain and chill may not be the most enjoyable (or safest) experience. 1 Amroth Tenby 7 2 Tenby Manorbier 8.5 Maps & Guides 3 Manorbier Bosherston 15 The route is covered by Ordnance Survey (OS) Explorer 1:25,000 maps 35 4 Bosherston Angle 15 (North Pembrokeshire) and 36 (South Pembrokeshire). The official national 5 Angle Pembroke 13.5 trail guide, Pembrokeshire Coast Path by Brian John, includes the coastal 6 Pembroke Sandy Haven 16 section of these same maps, but is cheaper and more manageable, with 7 Sandy Haven Marloes 14 detailed route descriptions, albeit running north to south. More useful is 8 Marloes Broad Haven 13 The Pembrokeshire Coastal Path, by Dennis Kelsall, which describes the 9 Broad Haven Solva 11 routes in the preferred south-to-north direction, and includes detailed route 10 Solva Whitesands 13 descriptions, background information, line maps and an accommodation 11 Whitesands Trefin 12 list. A series of 10 single-sheet trail cards (50p each), available from tourist 12 Trefin Pwll Deri 10 offices and National Park Centres, cover the route, with basic maps pointing 13 Pwll Deri Fishguard 10 out sites of interest along the way. 14 Fishguard Newport 12.5 15 Newport St Dogmaels 15.5 0 10 km PEMBROKESHIRE COAST PATH 1:560,000 0 6 miles

Poppit Sands Information Sources A T L A N T I C Head To There are National Park Centres in St David’s (p184), Newport (p193) and To Rosslare O C E A N Cardigan Bay Aberystwyth (28mi) Tenby (p165), with maps, guidebooks and, most importantly the free Coast to FINISH Cardigan Carreg Pen-las Coast newspaper (online at www.visitpembrokeshirecoast.com). It contains St Dogmaels Bay To Moylgrove A484 Bay A487 Carmarthen bus timetables and tide tables, which are not just helpful – they’re essential. Strumble Pembrokeshire Dinas (16mi) The National Park website (www.pembrokeshirecoast.org.uk) is also incredibly Coast National Park Head Carregwastad Head Head Nevern Castell Henllys Newcastle useful, with accommodation listings and abundant advice for walkers. Pwll Deri Trefasser Cwm-yr- Emlyn DAY 13 Cross Eglwys Newport Penbwchdy Goodwick Carn DAY 15 G y THE WALK Head Fishguard w Ingli e Aber Mawr Bay a u l l DAY 14 n V a Day 1: Amroth to Tenby DAY 12 Western B4329 Trefin Pontfaen 3–4 hours, 7 miles DAY 11 Porthgain Abercastle Preseli Hills Whitesands (Mynydd Preseli) Bay Abereiddy Mathry Starting at a wide sandy beach, this short section is the perfect teaser for what’s St David' s Croes-goch Cleddau to come, allowing plenty of time for swimming and sightseeing. Head Rosebush A487 A40 St Justinian's B4313 A pair of bilingual brass plaques marks the beginning of the trail, near the Porthclais Llys-y- Taf St David's C A R M A R T H E N S H I R E eastern end of Amroth. Today’s destination is clearly in sight, peering out P E M B R O K E S H I R E Fran Res A478 Llys-y-fran Cleddau behind rocky little Monkstone, which abuts the point at the south end of Solva Newgale the bay. At low tide you can kick off your shoes and follow the shore all the Ramsey Is DAY 10 Afon Caerfai Clarbeston To Carmarthen (7mi); Cardiff (67mi) way to Monkstone Point, although the official track takes the road and then St Non's Bay A487 Clunderwen Bay Nolton Haven follows the clifftops along what was once a railway track. Just over an hour St Bride’s Druidston away in Saundersfoot, there are places to eat and a tourist office (%01834-813672) Eastern St Bay Haverfordwest Narberth DAY 9 A40 Clears by the picturesque harbour. Broad Haven Picton Musselwick Little Haven Castle The path continues through a wooded area, taking a short diversion down Sands A4076 Canaston Bridge Martin's St Bride’s D Templeton Laugharne Monkstone Point before doubling back to come out into the fields near the Haven Wooltack DAY 7 Johnston a Landshipping A477 Sandy u Skomer Point DAY 8 g large Trevayne Farm Caravan & Camping Park (%01834-813402; www.camping-pembroke Haven l Island Marloes e St d Pendine The Ishmael's d Lawrenny START shire.co.uk; Monkstone; sites per person £4). From here there are a few sharp inclines, Island Gann a Amroth Milford u Marloes Sands Haven Cresswell Pendine with ever nearer views of candy-striped Tenby ( p165 ) along the way. Westdale Dale Burton Quay Wiseman's Bridge Saundersfoot Sands Skokholm Bay DAY 5 Carew Island Milford Pembroke Haven Dock Monkstone Angle DAY 6 Point Day 2: Tenby to Manorbier St Ann' s Head Pembroke Monkton DAY 2 3½–4½ hours, 8.5 miles West Freshwater Tenby Carmarthen To Rosslare Angle West Alternative Freshwater Bay Route Giltar Point Bay Another brilliant day with breathtaking clifftop views. There are a number of & Cork Castlemartin East Stackpole Manorbier steep climbs, but the distance is mercifully short. DAY 4 Lydstep DAY 3 Point Caldey Bosherston Stackpole Quay Island Lose the shoes and enjoy the first mile along sandy South Beach. As you near Green Bridge of Wales Stackpole Head the end you’ll be able to spot whether the red flag is flying over Giltar Point. St Govan' s Head Don’t get excited and break into the ‘Internationale’ – the revolution hasn’t 200 PEMBROKESHIRE COAST PATH •• The Walk lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com PEMBROKESHIRE COAST PATH •• The Walk 201

Trust’s Stackpole Estate (p169 ). West of here is another military firing range WARNING and the trail divides; if there’s no red flag you can take the path along the The Pembrokeshire Coast Path (PCP) is safe for sensible adult walkers, but parts of it are certainly coast, past several natural rock arches, to St Govan’s Head and visit the tiny not suitable for young children. At the time of writing, no-one has died on the path for 10 years, 6th-century St Govan’s Chapel (p170 ), set into the cliffs. From the chapel you but fatal accidents have happened in the past. The path is quite narrow and often runs close to follow a lane 1.5 miles north to reach the little village of Bosherston. the top of sheer cliffs. Take great care, especially when you’re tired, visibility is poor, the path is However, if the red flags are flying, you’ll have to take a shortcut inland wet or there are high winds (when your backpack can turn into a sail). through the nature reserve (a very nice route in its own right), over foot- Don’t attempt to swim across river mouths and be aware that some beaches have strong bridges and around long, thin lily ponds to reach Bosherston (p169 ). undertows and rips. Particular care should be taken at Whitesands, Newgale, Freshwater West and Marloes Sands when the surf’s up. Lifeguards patrol the areas between the flags every day Day 4: Bosherston to Angle during school holidays. Generally the beaches from Amroth to Tenby are the safest. 5½–7 hours, 15 miles Don’t pick up anything shiny in the military firing ranges, and definitely don’t attempt to cross There are patches of wonderful coastal scenery, but prepare for some tedious these zones when the red flags are flying, even if there’s no guard to block your way. road walking, courtesy of the British Army. For tips to avoid this, see p197 . Probably the most dangerous stretches are where the route follows roads with no footpath. A Quite why the army needs to use some of the most beautiful parts of Britain’s particularly treacherous area is near the grimly named Black Bridge on the way into Milford Haven. coast to test its killing power is anyone’s guess. Much of the next stretch is a Take care also at Wiseman’s Bridge, and between Little and Broad Havens. For these last two, tank firing range, permanently off limits to the public. Other parts are open you’re safer crossing on the beach at low tide, but mind that you don’t get cut off by the tide. as long as firing isn’t actually taking place. There’s usually a schedule of the Don’t attempt a short cut along any beach unless you’re sure you can make it to the other side. If you firing times posted in Ye Olde Worlde Café ( p170 ) in Bosherton. get trapped, the best you can hope for is a sodden pack. At worst, you could be in real danger. If you’re lucky, you’ll be able to head back down to St Govan’s Chapel and continue the trail along the coast – a beautiful 3.5-mile stretch with numer- ous caves, blowholes and natural arches, including the much photographed started. It just means that the military is using their firing range. Ordinarily Green Bridge of Wales. If you’re unlucky and the red flags are flying, you’ll have the path takes you up around the clifftop, but when the flag is flying you’re to take the road for an additional 3 miles west from Bosherton. But at Stack forced to make a diversion through the nearby village of Penally. This isn’t Rocks, red flags or not, you will have to turn inland and begin a 9-mile road all bad, as Penally has a pair of decent pubs and a church containing two walk. With ear-splitting detonations from the range, very little protection Celtic crosses from the 10th and 11th centuries. from passing vehicles and high hedgerows hiding much of the view, this is You’ll eventually rejoin the cliff path to enjoy incredible views over Caldey not an enjoyable diversion. The upside of this is that it does save you a few Island ( p167 ). Head down to caravan-covered Lydstep, about two hours from miles and gives you more incentive to wait for the bus. Tenby, before hooking up with the road at the other end of the beach, cutting You reach the coast again at spectacular Freshwater West (p170 ), beyond which across the point and regaining the cliffs as the path twists seriously close to the trail loops around the Angle Peninsula – another beautiful section with caves, sheer drops. Look out for the Church Doors limestone formation linking two tiny islands and little bays. At popular West Angle Bay you could easily cheat beaches far below. and follow the road for 10 minutes to the village of Angle ( p171 ). Otherwise it’s Soon you’ll pass the futuristic grey-and-yellow Manorbier Youth Hostel only an hour to Angle Point, where the path curves back into the village. (p169 ) – a cross between a space station and a motorway diner. It was once part of the military base that still occupies the neighbouring headland, where Day 5: Angle to Pembroke you’re forced to make another detour away from the cliffs, returning high 5–6 hours, 13.5 miles above the extraordinary red limestone ramparts of Presipe Beach. Today the scenery turns industrial and there’s nowhere to get lunch. It all builds to a spectacular finale, with the path heading alongside a As you enter the Milford Haven estuary, the castles and church steeples that have number of sudden 20m-deep chasms. As you turn the corner and Manor- dominated this landscape since Norman times are now dwarfed by the massive bier comes into view, look out for King’s Quoit, a Neolithic burial chamber towers and domes of modern oil refineries. When they’re not spewing out black fashioned from massive slabs of rock. smoke there’s something almost majestic about the scale of them – although the novelty may wear off after two full days of walking in their shadow. Day 3: Manorbier to Bosherston The trail runs around Angle Bay and along the south bank of the estuary, 5½–7 hours, 15 miles alongside the vast Texaco refinery and past several tanker jetties. Your next A slightly longer day, continually alternating between sheer cliffs and sandy highlight is the demolished power station, beyond which tracks, lanes and beaches. Lunch options are limited, so consider taking food with you. roads lead through medieval Monkton into Pembroke (p171 ). From Manorbier it’s an easy 3.5 miles to Freshwater East. While not the surfie haven of its western namesake, it’s still a popular holiday destination. After Day 6: Pembroke to Sandy Haven another surging section of cliff you reach the tiny harbour of Stackpole Quay 6–8 hours, 16 miles (p170 ), and then pass two massive arches, one big enough for large boats to The day starts urban and quickly becomes industrial. Make sure you check your pass through. From Stackpole Head you can look back proudly and survey tide tables before setting out, or you may find yourself taking a nasty detour. your whole walk so far. The path takes you across the and round the backstreets About 2 miles further on, you reach a bay called Broadhaven South (not of Pembroke Dock (a separate town), then over the large Cleddau Bridge, to be confused with Broad Haven, your stopping point on Day 8), where the which does at least provide some views. Stay on the road until you cross a trail goes inland slightly and crosses a footbridge on the edge of the National second bridge, before following the river back down into Neyland. If you’re 202 PEMBROKESHIRE COAST PATH •• The Walk lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com PEMBROKESHIRE COAST PATH •• The Walk 203

camping, nearby Shipping Farm (%01646-600286; Rose Market; sites per person £4) comes Day 9: Broad Haven to Solva highly recommended. There’s a large new gas terminal and a very dangerous 4–5½ hours, 11 miles section of pavement-deprived road before you cross the Black Bridge into Don’t be fooled by the distance – today’s no easy stroll. There are several steep the grim suburbs of Milford Haven. Beyond the docks there’s a final sec- climbs, but thankfully the scenery remains superb. tion of grey suburban streets and, just for luck, another bloody gas terminal Ancient fortifications are even more evident today as you follow the cliffs (Exxon) then – hooray! – you’re back to the national park and the beautiful up from the beach. After an hour you should reach the Druidstone Hotel coast again. From here it’s a short hop to Sandy Haven. ( p184 ), a rambling old hotel and restaurant at the top of Druidston Haven. The little estuary of Sandy Haven can be crossed (using stepping stones) Just down from the hotel, what looks like a Bronze Age barrow turns out to during the 2½ hours either side of low tide (a tide table is posted by the be an ultramodern home dug into the earth. slipway on each side). At high tide it’s a 4-mile detour via Herbrandston A further 30 minutes will bring you to Nolton Haven, a former coal port and Rickeston Bridge. At Herbrandston the Taberna Inn (%01646-693498; s/d with a pub by the beach. From here the trail gets really steep, sweeping up and with shared bathroom £25/50) offers B&B (shared bathrooms) and food in a popular down the cliffs towards beautiful 2.5-mile-long Newgale Beach (p183 ). Frustrat- local pub (mains £10, open lunch and dinner). ingly, you can’t get down to the beach until you’ve walked half its length on the Before the crossing, relaxed Sandy Haven Camping Park (%01646-695899; www undulating cliff path. Newgale Camping Site (%01437-710253; www.newgalecampingsite .sandyhavencampingpark.co.uk; sites per tent & 2 persons £9-11) has good facilities. On the .co.uk; sites per person £5) has well-kept facilities, and is perfectly positioned by the west side of the estuary, close to the trail, Skerryback Farm (%01646-636598; beach and the Duke of Edinburgh (%01437-720586; mains £4-7; hlunch & dinner). www.pfh.co.uk/skerryback; s/d incl breakfast £30/55) offers beds with en suites for weary As you pass over the bridge by the pub, you’re crossing the Landsker walkers. Further towards St Ishmael’s, Bicton Farm (%01646-636215; jdllewellin@aol Line ( p32 ). From Newgale the trail climbs back onto the cliffs. The 5-mile .com; s/tw with shared bathroom £20/46, d £50) is another good B&B option. walk to Lower Solva (p188 ) is along a rugged section with impressive rock formations. Day 7: Sandy Haven to Marloes 5–6½ hours, 14 miles Day 10: Solva to Whitesands Today takes you back to nature, with more ragged cliffs and deserted sandy 5–7 hours, 13 miles beaches, as the industrial plants dissolve into the distance. The spectacular coastline takes a spiritual turn as you follow in the footsteps From Sandy Haven there are 4 miles of fine clifftop walking to the Gann, of Wales’ patron saint. another inlet that can only be crossed 3½ hours either side of low tide (other- From Solva, the trail climbs back onto the cliffs and the superb coastal scenery wise it’s a 2.5-mile detour via Mullock). The path leads into Dale, where you continues. After two hours you’ll reach Caerfai Bay, a sheltered sandy beach can grab a sandwich at the Boathouse (mains £2.50-5; hbreakfast & lunch) or a more with two wonderful walker-friendly camp sites ( p186 ) right on the path. substantial meal at the Griffin Inn (%01646-636227; mains £4-12; hlunch & dinner). Around the next headland is St Non’s Bay ( p188). If you’re cutting inland A 10-minute walk through the village, past , to Westdale Bay to St David’s for lunch, it’s a 20-minute walk from here along the marked would save you 2½ hours, but cost you 5 miles of beautiful scenery around path through the fields. St Ann’s Head (p183 ). Back on the PCP, another half-hour brings you to the tiny harbour of Two miles along the cliffs past Westdale Bay you’ll see the remains of an Porthclais. Continuing round the headland there are good views across to abandoned WWII airfield. Above the impressive sweep of Marloes Sands, the Ramsey Island ( p188 ). The treacherous reefs close to the island are evocatively sign to well-positioned Marloes Sands Youth Hostel ( p183 ) is three-quarters known as the Bitches; from the shore you can see and hear the tide rushing of the way along the beach. through the largest of them, the Great Bitch. Another easy 2 miles will bring you to the busy surf beach of Whitesands Bay (p189 ). Day 8: Marloes to Broad Haven 4½–6 hours, 13 miles Day 11: Whitesands to Trefin A wonderful walk along dramatic clifftops, ending in an impressive beach. 4½–6 hours, 12 miles Head back to Marloes Sands; at the end of the beach you pass Gateholm Wild St David’s Head offers a rugged new landscape at the beginning of a Island, a major Iron Age Celtic settlement where the remains of 130 hut beautiful but taxing walk with several steep ascents. circles have been found. You’ll pass many such sites today – look out for the From Whitesands the trail quickly takes you to St David’s Head, an untamed earthwork ramparts of promontory forts. outcrop scattered with boulders and the remnants of an Iron Age fort, which Martin’s Haven, at the tip of the peninsula, is the base for Skomer Island is painted with streaks of yellow and purple flowers in summer. For the next boat trips ( p183 ) and the office of the Skomer Marine Nature Reserve, with 2 miles the only sign of human habitation is an ancient dolmen (Neolithic an interesting display on the underwater environment. Set into the wall next burial chamber); herds of horses roam around, adding to the primitive feel. to the office is a Celtic cross, which may date to the 7th century. After an undulating 3½-hour walk, the beachside settlement of Abereiddy Around the headland the cliffs change from red to black, and after an reveals ruins from the industrial age. Another half hour will bring you to Porth- hour you’ll reach Musselwick Sands. St Bride’s Haven is a further 2 miles gain (p189 ), another former quarry town and now a quiet village with a quaint down the track, with the headland dominated by a Victorian faux castle, harbour. From here it’s an easy hour to Trefin and a well-earned rest. once owned by the barons of Kensington. A reasonably easy 5-mile stretch At Trefin you’ll find Prendergast Camping Park (%01348-831368; www.prendergast leads to Little Haven, separated by rocks from Broad Haven (p183 ). From the caravanpark.co.uk; sites per person £3.50), so well sheltered behind its hedges it’s difficult path you’ll be able to assess the tide and decide whether to follow the busy to spot. The facilities are excellent and well-maintained, but you’ll need to road or cross via the beach. put a coin in the slot to get a hot shower. Relaxed and friendly Hampton House © Lonely Planet Publications 204 PEMBROKESHIRE COAST PATH •• The Walk lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com PEMBROKESHIRE COAST PATH •• The Walk 205

(%01348-837701; [email protected]; 2 Ffordd-y-Felin; s/d £25/50) has three simple rooms, don’t be tempted – it’s a wonderful walk along the coast and you might spot and Bryngarw Guest House (%01348-831221; www.bryngarwguesthouse.co.uk; Abercastle Rd; seals and dolphins. s/d £40/60) has some impressive sea views. The only dinner option is the Ship From Cwm-yr-Eglwys it’s only 3 miles on to the Parrog, the old port of Inn (%01348-831445; mains £7-15; hlunch & dinner), serving typically uninspiring Newport. From here, continue to follow the PCP through a small wooded but hearty pub food. section; turn right at the fingerpost to the youth hostel and you’ll hit the centre of Newport (p193 ). Day 12: Trefin to Pwll Deri 3½–4½ hours, 10 miles Day 15: Newport to St Dogmaels Today’s walk is yet another wonderful experience, with cliffs, rock buttresses, 6–8 hours, 15.5 miles pinnacles, islets, bays and beaches. It’s tempered by a distinct paucity of eating We’ve saved the longest, steepest day till last – when those newly formed rocklike and accommodation options. thighs and buns of steel can best handle it. Grab a packed lunch and head for From Trefin it’s an easy 3 miles to Abercastle. Before you reach the small the finish line, enjoying some of the best walking on the whole route. beach, take a short detour over the stiles to Carreg Sampson, a 5000-year-old East of Newport Sands, the coast along the first half of this section is wild burial chamber with a capstone over 5m long. After another 4 miles you’ll and uninhabited, with numerous rock formations and caves. You may see reach sandy Aber Mawr Beach. Atlantic grey seals on the rocks nearby. Onwards from Ceibwr Bay ( p195 ) The headland of Penbwchdy is the beginning of one of the most impres- is quite tough, but it’s a wonderful roller-coasting finale, past sheer cliffs sive stretches of cliff on the whole path. If the weather is good you can see reaching a height of 175m – the highest of the trail. all the way back to St David’s Head; if it’s windy you may be thankful for the At , stop and take stock. The end of the trail is nigh but circular dry-stone shepherds’ shelter here. Either way, it’s a wild 40-minute aesthetically this headland is the finish. So, turning your back on the cliffs, walk to join the road above the bay of Pwll Deri ( p190 ), where there’s another follow the lane towards St Dogmaels and Cardigan (p207 ). stunning view back along the cliffs. A mile past the beach of Poppit Sands you leave the national park and a plaque on a wall seems like the end of the trail. Don’t celebrate just yet. The ac- Day 13: Pwll Deri to Fishguard tual end is a couple of miles further on, unmarked, near a carved wooden mer- 3½–4½ hours, 10 miles maid as you enter St Dogmaels village. Now you can pop the champagne! There’s excellent cliff scenery and reasonably easy walking on this deserted section, but come prepared or you may be very hungry by the time you reach Goodwick. From Pwll Deri the trail leads along the cliffs for 3 miles to the impressive promontory of Strumble Head ( p190 ), marked by its famous lighthouse. A mile inland you can pitch a tent at Tresinwen Farm (%01348-891238; sites per person £2). About 3 miles further on you reach Carregwastad Point, where the last invasion of Britain occurred some 200 years ago (see p193 ). Shortly after this, the small wooded valley of Cwm Felin comes as a surprise in this otherwise windswept landscape. An hour later you round the headland, and with a sudden jolt there’s Goodwick and behind it Fishguard (p190 ), the largest town since Milford Haven. The trail drops down to the port of Goodwick to come out by the ferry quay, then heads past a roundabout at the bottom of the hill. Along the waterfront there are a series of interesting historical plaques and mosaics illustrating the history of the area. From here the trail climbs steeply up to the cliffs, skirting Fishguard. Stay with it until you reach a viewpoint overlooking Lower Fishguard, then go up Penslade St, which will bring you out on West St, very near the town centre. Day 14: Fishguard to Newport 5–6 hours; 12.5 miles There are superb views from the cliffs on this section, but only one lunch option. Leaving Fishguard you follow the trail round picturesque Lower Fishguard, © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally the location for the 1971 film of Dylan Thomas’ Under Milk Wood, and then restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes head out along the clifftops once again. only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to About 4 miles on, at the small bay of Pwllgwaelod, the Old Sailors ( p195 ) is a good lunch stop. It’s possible to take a short cut to Cwm-yr-Eglwys everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying through the valley that almost divides Dinas Head from the mainland, but the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’