© Lonely Planet Publications 162 lonelyplanet.com PEMBROKESHIRE COAST NATIONAL PARK •• Information 163 porpoises and whales are frequently spotted PEMBROKESHIRE COAST in coastal waters. Pembrokeshire The park is also a focus for activities, from NATIONAL PARK hiking and bird-watching to high-adrenaline sports such as surfing, coasteering, sea kayak- The Pembrokeshire Coast National Park (Parc ing and rock climbing. Cenedlaethol Arfordir Sir Benfro), established in 1952, takes in almost the entire coast of INFORMATION Like a little corner of California transplanted to Wales, Pembrokeshire is where the west Pembrokeshire and its offshore islands, as There are three national park visitor centres – meets the sea in a welter of surf and golden sand, a scenic extravaganza of spectacular sea well as the moorland hills of Mynydd Preseli in Tenby, St David’s and Newport – and a cliffs, seal-haunted islands and beautiful beaches. in the north. Its many attractions include a dozen tourist offices scattered across Pembro- scenic coastline of rugged cliffs with fantas- keshire. Pick up a copy of Coast to Coast (on- Among the top-three sunniest places in the UK, this wave-lashed western promontory is tically folded rock formations interspersed line at www.visitpembrokeshirecoast.com), one of the most popular holiday destinations in the country. Traditional bucket-and-spade with some of the best beaches in Wales, and the park’s free annual newspaper, which has seaside resorts like Tenby and Broad Haven alternate with picturesque harbour villages a profusion of wildlife – Pembrokeshire’s lots of information on park attractions, a cal- sea cliffs and islands support huge breeding endar of events and details of park-organised such as Solva and Porthgain, interspersed with long stretches of remote, roadless coastline populations of sea birds, while seals, dolphins, activities, including guided walks, themed frequented only by walkers and wildlife. 0 20 km Almost one-third of the county, including all of the coastline, is protected within the Pem- PEMBROKESHIRE 0 10 miles brokeshire Coast National Park – a 200-mile-long adventure playground famous for its surfing, sea kayaking, coasteering and rock climbing. And then there’s the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, a 186-mile roller coaster of a long-distance trail that will sort out the hardcore hikers from Cardigan Llanon the Sunday-afternoon strollers. The park is also a haven for wildlife; it’s home to dolphins, Bay 5° W porpoises, seals and sea birds, including the world’s largest colony of Manx shearwaters. Aberaeron New There are historical attractions too, from the imposing medieval castles at Pembroke, Carew Quay Temple Bar and Manorbier to the age-worn cathedral and Bishop’s Palace of St David’s – the smallest Synod Inn St George's city in Britain and the cradle of Welsh Christianity. To the north rise the rounded ridges of Channel Mwnt Poppit A487 the Mynydd Preseli, source of the Stonehenge bluestones, which watches over a mysterious Sands Poppit Sands Blaenannerch A486 Llanybydder prehistoric landscape that includes the dolmen (Neolithic burial chamber) of Pentre Ifan, the To Rosslare (Ireland) Cardigan A475 Ceibwr St Bay Dogmael’s biggest megalithic monument in Wales. A484 Henllan Llandysul PembrokeshireTrefdraeth Coast Path Dinas PEMBROKESHIRE Strumble Carregwastad Island Nevern Newcastle Head Point Castell Henllys Emlyn Pwll Deri Newport N e Goodwick Pentre v A478 Carn e 52° N r A485 Fishguard Gw Ingli (347m) Ifan n HIGHLIGHTS a Abermawr un Llanfyrnach wil Bay Preseli G i A487 Cwmcerwyn Hills Porthgain Mathry Striding out along the dramatic clifftop Trefin (535m) Abereiddy paths around St David’s Head ( p189 ) St David's Head W Bronwydd Arms St David’s PEMBROKESHIRE e B4329 B4313 s PEMBROKESHIRE PEMBROKESHIRE Lower t Enjoying a picnic above the golden sands of Porthmelgan e Carmarthen r St David's Whitesands Bay Solva n Clarbeston Barafundle Bay ( p170 ) Head Penycwm C Road l Clarbeston Ramsey Newgale e Porthclais d Island d St David's Cathedral St a Whitland Going dolphin-spotting in the waters off Justinian’s u Whitesands Bay A40 St Clears Druidston Canaston Narberth Skomer Island ( p183 ) St Bride’s Haverfordwest Bay Bridge A484 B4341 Daugleddau Canaston Laugharne Catching your first wave at Whitesands Bay Broad Haven Woods Little Haven A4076 A477 Kidwelly ( p189 ) B4327 A4075 A4066 Llansteffan Pembrokeshire Johnston Skomer Island Skomer Marloes Sands Coast Lawrenny Burry Island Milford B4586 Amroth Contemplating centuries past at St David’s National Park Haven Port Martin’s Marloes Neyland Saundersfoot Cathedral ( p184 ) Carew Castle Haven West Dale Llanelli Dale PembrokeshireAngle Pembroke Dock T Bay Burry o R Skokholm Coast Path Pembroke Tenby Carmarthen os St Ann's Whiteford Point Inlet sla Island B4320 A4139 Bay re Head (Ire B4319 St Petrox Manorbier land ) Freshwater Stackpole Barafundle Bay West Manorbier Burry Bosherston Barafundle Holms Linney Bay Youth Llangennith Head Stack Stackpole Hostel Rocks Middleton St Govan’s Head Head Rhossili 164 PEMBROKESHIRE COAST NATIONAL PARK •• Activities lonelyplanet.com Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com SOUTH PEMBROKESHIRE •• Tenby (Dinbych y Pysgod) 165 tours, cycling trips, pony treks, island cruises, traffic on A-roads, especially the A487 in the Celtic Trails (%01600-860846; www.pembrokeshire The Pembrokeshire Coast Path ( p197 ) runs canoe trips and minibus tours. The National north, can make cycling hazardous, so stick coastpath.com; PO Box 11, Chepstow NP16 6DZ) Offers through Tenby and, as the biggest town in Park Authority’s website (www.pcnpa.org.uk) to unclassified roads or B-roads. flexible self-guided walking holidays along the Coast Path, the national park, it’s a major stopover for is also packed with useful information. Parts of Lôn Geltaidd (the Celtic Trail), from three- to 13- days, staying in B&Bs. walkers. passes through Pembrokeshire; see p60 for Greenways Holidays (%5501834-862109; www ACTIVITIES more on the national cycling network. There .greenwaysholidays.com; Old School, Station Rd, Narberth) History The centres listed here offer a range of activities are bike-hire places in many of the major vil- Organised walking and cycling tours. Originally a Norman stronghold, Tenby and adventure sports for individual travellers, lages and towns. Tony’s Taxis (%01437-720931; www.tonystaxis.net; flourished in the 15th century as a centre for as well as residential group-based programmes. Maes Dewi, St David’s) Provides a luggage transfer service the textile trade, exporting cloth in exchange Activities include coasteering, sea kayaking, Water Sports covering the area from Little Haven to Fishguard. for salt and wine. Clothmaking declined in mountain biking, surfing, coastal hiking, horse Pembrokeshire has some of Britain’s best surf- the 18th century, but the town soon rein- riding, rock climbing and abseiling. Both places ing at beaches such as Tenby South, Manor- SLEEPING vented itself as a fashionable watering place. have their own accommodation and bar, sup- bier, Freshwater West and West Dale Bay in There are nine YHA/HI hostels in the na- The arrival of the railway in the 19th cen- ply healthy food and will collect you from the the south, and at Broad Haven, Newgale and tional park (at Manorbier, Penycwm, Mar- tury sealed its future as a resort, and William train or bus station. Typical prices are around Whitesands Bay in the west. Windsurfing and loes Sands, Broad Haven, St David’s, Trefin, Paxton (owner of the Middleton estate in £45/85 for a half-/full-day adventure, and £190 kite surfing are also popular. There are several Pwll Deri, Newport and Poppit Sands), and Carmarthenshire, now home to the National for an all-inclusive weekend. surf schools where you can take lessons. a couple of independent hostels at Fishguard Botanic Garden of Wales, p157 ) developed Preseli Venture (%01348-837709; www.preseliventure First pioneered on the Pembrokeshire coast, and Porthgain. a saltwater spa here. Anxiety over a possible .com; Parcynole Fach, Mathry, Haverfordwest) Off the A487 coasteering is a bit of a superhero sport – With the permission of the landowner or French invasion of Milford Haven led to the between St David’s and Fishguard. equipped with wetsuit, flotation jacket and farmer, it’s possible to camp almost anywhere, construction in 1869 of a fort on St Cather- TYF Adventure (%01437-721611, 0800 132588; www helmet, you make your way along the coastal although not on National Trust (NT) land. ine’s Island. .tyf.com; 1 High St, St David’s) cliffs by a combination of climbing, traversing, Among those who have taken inspiration scrambling, cliff jumping and swimming. GETTING AROUND or rest here are Horatio Nelson, Sir William Walking The western tip of the coast is one of the In addition to the main, year-round bus and Lady Hamilton, Jane Austen, George The 186-mile Pembrokeshire Coast Path is one UK’s finest sea-kayaking areas. Beginners can routes, there is a range of special bus serv- Eliot, JMW Turner, Beatrix Potter and Roald of the most beautiful long-distance walks in enjoy coastal trips starting from calm har- ices (some of them summer only, some year- Dahl. The artist Augustus John was born here, Britain; see p197 for more details. If you don’t bours and bays. round), with names such as Poppit Rocket, and he and his sister Gwen lived here during feel up to the full 14- or 15-day hike, there Strumble Shuttle and Celtic Coaster, aimed their early life. are lots of opportunities for short walks along Pony Trekking & Horse Riding at walkers and other visitors to the Pembro- various sections of the trail. The Pembrokeshire coast is a fantastic area keshire coast. For routes and timetables, see Orientation If you have only limited time, recom- for riding – along beaches, across open moor- www.pembrokeshiregreenways.co.uk. Tourist The town’s main landmark is the prominent mended one-day stretches include from Dale land, along wooded bridleways or down quiet offices give out free timetable booklets listing headland of Castle Hill, site of the Norman to Martin’s Haven, and Caerfai to Whitesands country lanes – and there are a dozen stables all the bus services of use to visitors.