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Aberdaron to Abersoch

Aberdaron to Abersoch

The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path

Bardsey Island CHAPTER 5

ABERDARON TO

The Coastal Path for Walkers

Distance 18 miles (30km) Height gain 2400ft (732m)

The route from to Abersoch has improved over the years. There used to be fairly restricted access to the cliff edge in several places, but work by council and the Welsh assembly has opened up some areas Follow the green lane until it emerges on to a road. of land which were previously private. In particular the section from Hells To the left is a large swampy area with a pond. Turn right Mouth to Abersoch has benefited, and it is now one of the best sections of and walk along the road until the tarmac disappears and the whole walk.. degenerates into two unmade tracks. Take the left-hand of these (SE) along a green lane to a gate. Go through the gate and carry straight on along the line of a wall. (Ignore ABERDARON the stile near the gate which leads off to the left.) Soon a Aberdaron is a small, pleasant village well served by stile is reached over a fence. Ignore this stile and continue hotels, guesthouses and cafés, opened up to tourists along the fence for 100yd or so until the cliffs above Porth by the advent of the motor car. Many of the resorts Parwyd are seen. Turn right now and follow the tops of of the Lleyn were served by the railways which were the cliffs back towards the starting point. developed in the 19th century, but the line never Stay near the clifftops with fine views over Bardsey reached as far as Aberdaron, despite its title as ‘The and the rocks below until eventually a stile is reached. Land’s End of ’. Cross over and stay parallel to the clifftop to reach a Thomas Pennant, a prolific writer and traveller further two stiles at the base of Mynydd Gwyddel. The through Wales in the 18th century, merely describes it ascent of Mynydd Gwyddel is recommended as it pro- as a ‘poor village’. Even 100 years later it scarce gets a vides excellent views of the end of the peninsula. From its mention in the Guide to Wales of 1878. However, by summit there is a broad track leading back to the car park- 1919 the Red Guide to Wales described Aberdaron as ing area. For those who don’t want the extra climb, one ‘the remotest and quaintest village on the Lleyn’, and should bear right after the two stiles and keep Mynydd noted that a motor bus ran twice daily from . Gwyddel on the left. Follow the fence up the shallow val- Despite Pennant’s remarks the area has a his- ley to arrive back at the car parking area. tory going back into the mists of time. Just 2 miles 124 125 The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path Aberdaron to Abersoch – The Coastal Path for Walkers

northeast of the village is Castell Odo (187285), rising later). In later times the church was used as a place of to nearly 500ft and site of the earliest set- ­sanctuary. In 1095 escaped from tlement in . The inhabitants constructed the at Chester and arrived at Aberdaron where wooden huts and a palisade for defence, and there the church elders hid him and later got him on a boat are traces of 10 circular huts. Various pieces of pottery to escape to Ireland. have been found, the oldest dating from 425bc. We can surmise that the village was still popular in the 6th century ad as it marked the final stage of the pilgrims’ route. It was the last holy site before reach- ing Bardsey, and the church was important in its own right. It is likely that there has been a building here since the 6th century, but the present-day church is a mixture of various architectural eras. There is a late Norman door of the 12th century, and the north nave dates from the same period. The church was enlarged in the 15th century by the addition of the south nave. The church fell into disrepair in the mid 19th century, but was renovated before the ravages of time did too much damage. The church is jointly dedicated to St Lleuddad, the second abbot of Bardsey, and St Hywyn (or Henwyn). The latter arrived from in the 6th century, and was one of the first saints of Bardsey. He was reputed to be a cousin of St Cadfan, the first abbot, and related to St Maelrhys (of whom more

Gruffudd must have made his peace with the Normans, for Map continues on p.128 the next time he is involved with a sanctuary problem the roles are reversed. In 1115 Gruffudd ap Rhys, a prince from South Wales, fled to escape the treachery of the original Gruffudd ap Cynan who proposed to deliver the young prince into the clutches of King Henry I. The prince sought sanctuary in Aberdaron church, but orders were given for him to be forcibly removed. The local clergy then made such a fuss at this proposed 127 Aberdaron to Abersoch – The Coastal Path for Walkers

violation that the soldiers would not carry out their orders. Under cover of darkness the young prince escaped by boat back to South Wales. The oddest inhabitant of Aberdaron seems to have been one

‘Dick of Aberdaron’, ­sometimes spelt ‘Dic’. Dick’s The beach at full name was Richard Robert Jones, born some Aberdaron time in the 1780s. Despite being from peas- ant stock Dick had a remarkable talent for learning languages, and eventually was able to use upwards of 15 different tongues. Such talent was hardly needed in Aberdaron at the time, and Dick drifted along the North Wales coast, eventually arriving in . Here he could con- verse with foreign sailors, but his skills never seemed to provide him with a suf- Map continued ficient income. from p.127 He appears to have been something of an eccentric, wandering around in unusual baggy clothing, and according to some writers sporting a French horn around his neck, which he used to attract attention before addressing the crowds in some unknown dialect. He died around 1844 and is buried in the churchyard at St Asaph.

128 129 The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path Aberdaron to Abersoch – The Coastal Path for Walkers

Leaving Aberdaron From the bridge in the centre of Aberdaron walk NE along the B4413 road, passing by the post office. Ahead it climbs steeply, and the right of way leaves the road on the right about 100yd from the junction over a low wall (see photo-diagram Leaving Aberdaron). Two stone steps appear next to a telegraph pole and lead onto the narrow track. Over the stone steps the line then bears left and contours the hillside above a small caravan site. The vegetation is considerable, so that the track gets narrower as the summer progresses! Soon a stile is reached which is clambered over to then veer right to another stile. This leads into the meadows alongside the pleasant river.

Note: This particular section of path – although clearly designated as a right of way – has been the subject of some changes over the years, and there appears to be some confusion about the exact line. Gwynedd CC are committed to ensuring that the coastal path is free of obstructions and easy to fol- low, so this area may benefit from upgrading and waymarking in the future.

Whatever the final outcome of such upgrades the line of the path is easy for it merely follows the river through the meadows until a substantial footbridge over the river is seen (183267). Cross the bridge and carry on up a nar- row gully to a gate and a stile. Go over the stile to the left and proceed up the narrow track with gorse on the left. The area is often boggy, and occasional planks provide relief from the worst of the mud. Soon a gate and stile are reached which give access to a lane. Turn left. Walk along the road for just over 0.5 mile until a cot- tage (Ty Bychan) is seen on the left. On the opposite side of the road is a stile leading into a field (sketch map 5.1). Climb over the stile and walk alongside a grassy bank to another stile. Over the stile turn left along a sunken lane through gorse to reach another stile giving access to a farm lane. Ignore the turns in the lane and carry on in the same direction to walk across the front of the farmhouse, Carys Will, to a gate. Through the gate bear right and then 130 131 The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path Aberdaron to Abersoch – The Coastal Path for Walkers

that ’s last battle against his arch enemy was fought in the fields around Porth Cadlan. It has to be said that one can find the supposed traces of King Arthur’s last battle at a number of sites around the western seaboard of England and Wales. However, this area does have some evidence to connect it with Arthur. First, Arthur’s last battle was the Battle of Camlan. This name is a derivative of an old Welsh word Cadgamlan meaning ‘rout’. The word can also be shortened to Cadlan. Secondly, ‘Cadlan’ is taken by some to mean ‘battle site’. Finally, there is a large rock just offshore at Porth Cadlan called Maen follow the field boundary which soon turns Gwenonwy, ‘Gwenonwy’s left to reach a stile. stone’. Gwenonwy was the Stay on the same line along the next field boundary, sister of King Arthur. passing a telegraph pole, and a house on the other side of Of more interest are the the fence to the right. Soon you can go no further, but there connections between Arthur and is a stone stile as part of the wall, somewhat overgrown, but the saints of the Lleyn. Gwenonwy a little searching will soon locate it. Drop onto a farm track. was married to Gwyndaf Hen and one of their children Turn left, but in 5yd turn right along another farm was Hywyn, the saint to whom Aberdaron church is track which drops gently to a gate. Continue on the track dedicated. So King Arthur was Hywyn’s uncle. Now through the gate. There are now some buildings in front, Gwyndaf Hen had a brother, Gwyddno, and a sister but the correct line passes behind them. Leave the track Gwen Teirbron. Gwyddno had a son called Maelrhys, as the buildings are reached to find a stile on the left and an early saint on Bardsey. His church is a little way to a track leading behind the left-hand building. Turn right the east, and is described later. Gwen Teirbron mar- over the stile, but then trend left alongside the fence until ried Eneas Lydewig and their son was Cadfan, who as another stile is reached. we already know was the first abbot of Bardsey. Thus Cadfan, Maelrhys and Hywyn were all cousins and all related in some way to Arthur. All clear now? KING ARTHUR The farm buildings to the right are called Cadlan Isaf, Go over the stile and keep straight on, with the fence and a detour can be made to the sea at Porth Cadlan. The line on the left. Three more stiles bring the route onto site has historical connections, for there is one theory a narrow lane. Turn right. The lane jinks to the left and 132 133 The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path Aberdaron to Abersoch – The Coastal Path for Walkers PORTH YSGO

A prettier cove you could not hope to find. At the point where the steps reach the beach a waterfall comes over the cliff, just to add a little extra to the scenery. The beach is firm fine sand and, facing due south, a veritable suntrap. The only drawback is that all those steps have to be climbed to get back on route. Never mind, the views are worth it!

Climb up the steps, but now keep right and into the lit- tle valley of Nant Gadwen (212266) on an easy track. Follow the stream uphill, passing some small mine work- ings on the right, to arrive at a road by a huge wild fuchsia bush. The mines date from the mid 19th century when a considerable amount of manganese ore was excavated. Production ceased in 1945. At the road junction the cor- rect route lies directly ahead in the hedge across the junc- tion. If time permits a slight detour to the left can be made The beach at to visit the church of St Maelrhys. Porth Ysgo

Connections above later to the right but soon a large pond is seen on the Porth Ysgo left, and barns on the right. In 50yd a sign is reached, ‘Footpath to Porth Ysgo’. Turn right along an obvious track (see photo-diagram Connections above Porth Ysgo). This leads alongside a barn to a gate. Do not go through the gate but turn left at it alongside a fence to reach two gates side by side. Pass through the smaller gate and drop down to a bridge over a stream. The track, which is very clear, leads down a delightful little valley to reach some steps, and waymarks. At this point it is possible to stay high and contour round the headland to reach more steps lead- ing away from the beach up a small valley. However a descent to the beach is recommended. Walk down the steps – a considerable number of them – to reach the beach below.

134 135 The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path Aberdaron to Abersoch – The Coastal Path for Walkers

After 200yd a track is seen on the left, with a gate and ST MAELRHYS CHURCH a stile. The turn-off is just before some telegraph wires It has been noted previously that there is more evi- cross the road. Over the stile keep left alongside the fence dence of pilgrim relics on the north coast of the to a gate. Pass through, still keeping by the fence, which Lleyn than the south. The latter has no designated is now on the right. The fence curves round to the right line of churches (as far as we know). Some writers and the track stays with it to reach a gate. Keep straight on dismiss the south coast route, but most admit that to another gate at a farm road. some travellers must have approached this way. This is the farm of Penarfynydd (219267). Go through One explanation is that pilgrims took a boat from the gate and bear half right to pass between the house the area to arrive at Pwllheli, so avoiding and outbuildings. Above is a drystone wall with a gate. the problematic river crossings at Portmadoc. This Through the gate turn left and walk alongside the wall. method of completing a pilgrimage does seem to be The path trends away from the wall slightly and gains cheating a little! height to reach a stile. Over the stile stay by the wall pass- One site which could have been a south-coast ing a pen marked ‘Danger’ to reach a gate giving access stopping place is the church of St Maelrhys at to a green lane. . To visit the church turn left at the junc- Walk up the green lane, but soon take a stile on the tion and walk along the lane for 400yd to find the right over the wall. A track heads off across the heath- church on the right. This is the only site dedicated to land. Above and to the left is a rocky outcrop, and soon St Maelrhys in the British Isles, but he was one of the a faint track cuts off left towards the rocks. This should be original band of saints who were contemporaries of St ignored, but it forms part of the first circular walk at the Cadfan, and therefore of some importance. end of this chapter. Press on along the main track head- On the boundary between Llanfaelrhys and Rhiw ing towards the sea. Soon the route passes some broken parishes are two large stones. One stands on its end, walls and crests a rise from where there are fine views of but the other appears to have fallen over. Legend is that the cliffs in this area. two thieves broke into the church and stole whatever money they could find. They escaped towards Rhiw, Note: The OS map does not show any rights of way but just as they crossed the parish boundary they were around this headland, but the land is owned by the turned into two granite columns for their sacrilege. and the path is clear. The area is rich in The stones are called Llandron Maelrhys (Maelrhys’ remains, and the map notes several ‘hut circles’ and thieves) to this day. ‘standing stones’. One circle can be seen by the ruin of the cottage at Pen-yr-ogof (232274). Another rich Back on the main route, having come up from the beach site is the field to the right just as the track approaches one reaches the road junction. Go directly across the the houses at Rhiw where there are the remains of intersection to find a plank bridge leading into the hedge round huts, field terraces and enclosures. opposite. From the planks clamber up to a stile above and so gain access to a field. Trend right past a telegraph pole The path stays high above the waves on the headland to reach the corner of the field with a gate and stile. The and is a very pleasant section. Eventually a gate at a next section is very easy because from each stile the next dry­stone wall is reached. Pass through the gate and stay stile can be seen. Continue across the fields with four fur- alongside the wall to another gate giving access to an ther stiles to reach a lane. Turn right. unmade lane. Signs of civilisation now begin to appear 136 137 The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path Aberdaron to Abersoch – The Coastal Path for Walkers

as the village of Rhiw is reached. Stay on Rhiw towards the unmade lane until a road appears Hell’s Mouth (sketch map 5.2). Turn right along the road (ignoring the footpath sign opposite) and continue along it for 200yd where it takes a sharp turn to the right. At this point an unmade lane goes straight on just below a large white house, Llwynfor, and there is a further sign to ‘Afallon’. Take the unmade lane to a gate and pass through. There is a ruined barn on the left. Trend right (see photo-diagram Rhiw towards Hell’s Mouth) Walk for 200yd down the road, past a house through nettles and over planks to (Brynteg), until it turns right. At this point a good track reach a stone stile in the wall. It is leads off to the left and should be taken. It is signed ‘Tan not easy to see stone stiles from a dis- y Muriau’. Along the track are excellent views to the right, tance, but those hereabouts have a wooden and soon a house is reached by a gate. The correct right pole marking the site of way goes straight ahead and then round the back of the Over the stile turn left to reach another. house on a gravel path. There are small waymarks in the Over this stile cross the field diagonally to the wall. Follow round the rear boundary of the house to a right to drop to the other side of the field where the gate. Once through the gate turn left up the hill for 40yd wall junction seems to present an obstacle. As you get then turn right alongside a broken wall to reach a stone closer an old stone stile is seen through the weeds giv- stile in a hedgerow. ing access to the next field, down and to the right. Cross Over the stile keep in the same direction to reach a this field again diagonally­ right to reach the opposite gate below another cottage. The gate leads onto a good wall at the point where the wall comes in from the more path passing between the cottage on the right and some distant fields. Again an old stone stile is found. barns on the left. Stay on this path until it reaches a gate Its use allows you to walk along the top of the broad and a cart track. Turn right and follow the track as it wall. This is necessary because to the left is an uninviting swings to the left and levels out. bog, and to the right brambles. After a couple of yards Soon a track junction is reached by the start of a for- drop off to the right and continue alongside the wall to a est. The farm track straight on is signed ‘Bryn y Ffynnon’ stile giving access to a road. Turn right. (sketch map 5.2). Turn right. Follow the good track on 138 139 The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path Aberdaron to Abersoch – The Coastal Path for Walkers

HELL’S MOUTH The bay is Hell’s Mouth; inland is an area of flat farmland. The bay must have been much larger at one time, but a thick layer of boulder clay left after the Ice Age has filled in much it, leaving the shoreline at its present point. Its Welsh name is Porth Neigwl, but it is com- monly called Hell’s Mouth, dating from the days of sail when this part of the coast had a terrible reputation for wrecks. A com- bination of south- westerly gales and some treacherous offshore currents spelled the doom of several sailing ships. In gale condi- tions it is still an awe- some place.

There are two options here. The official coastal path keeps inland from this point visiting some historical sites, but it is also possible to walk along the beach – a the forest’s edge heading towards a gate, but 50yd before shorter option. However, the winter storms attack the reaching the gate peel off the good track to the right to soft cliffs hereabouts and landslips and collapses are pick up a faint track and a waymark by a low wall. The common. At the time of writing (2005) the main road is track improves, and though narrow is easy to follow as it still closed off because of a land slide some four years goes around the boundary of the nearby cottage gardens. previously. After such collapses it can be very difficult, It soon arrives at a wall enclosing the coniferous wood not to say dangerous, to get down the cliffs to the beach. and the track turns right. After negotiating two stiles the By 2005 the track down to the beach had stabilised and track starts to drop and zigzags down the hillside, quite access was reasonable, but in future years those who steeply in places, to reach a cart track at the bottom. Turn prefer to follow the beach route will need to assess the right to reach a road in 20yd. The bay, which has been situation for themselves. visible for some time, is now just a few yards away to the right (S). 140 141 The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path Aberdaron to Abersoch – The Coastal Path for Walkers

PLAS YN RHIW For those with time a detour can be made from this point to visit , a Tudor manor house. Take the closed road (accessible by pedestrians) to the right and then follow the signs. Plas yn Rhiw is an impressive house and it is hard to believe that it was abandoned in the early part of the 20th century, to be rescued by the Keating family in 1939. They spent much time and effort in restoring it to its former glory. They later left the property to the National Trust. The house also boasts impressive organic gardens.

Beach route At the road turn right and walk for 100yd or so to find a gate and stile on the left. These lead onto a narrow but obvious track leading down to the beach. The way is then clear, but walkers are advised to stay away from the crum- At this point the track is very faint, but turn 45 Hell’s Mouth bling cliffs at the back of the beach. Walk along the beach degrees to the right (N) and cross a field. At some point for about 4 miles until about 0.5 mile from the end the in crossing the field a ditch will be reached, and by fol- cliffs ease back and a bright red lifebelt box can be seen. lowing it to the left a footbridge will be seen crossing it. Turn left and head inland at this point towards a small Cross over the bridge and then keep on the same line car park (284267). Just after leaving the beach an obvious towards some hedgerows. There is a stile at the junc- track is met on the right (E) with waymarks. Take this track tion of the hedgerows but it is not easy to see because along the back of the dunes. the hedges are somewhat overgrown. You may have to search it out. Once it is found the routefinding eases Inland route considerably. To follow the inland route turn left (E) on reaching the Climb over the stile and turn left, following the line road and follow it for about 1.25 miles. Keep a lookout of the hedge and passing a gate on your left. Soon a gate on the right for two houses, Awelon and Rhosyn Bach. and stile are reached so pass through the gate into a Soon after passing these houses a footpath sign is seen green lane. In September the sloes are abundant herea- on the left (61292) at the drive to a cottage (Ty’n Rhos bouts. Carry on along the lane to a gate giving access Neigwl – sketch map 5.3). Turn left along the drive and to barns and a house. Keep on the wide track with the pass to the right of the cottage to reach a stile with a house on the right and go through further gates leav- pond to its right. Over the stile continue straight ahead ing the barns behind. Some 150yd past the last barn the to reach two further stiles separated by a footbridge. wide track swings left and a smaller track turns off to the Keep in the same direction after the second right. Drop down to two gates and a stile. The left-hand of the two stiles until some ruined stone barns appear gate is signed to ‘Bontwnnog’ and ‘’ and should on the left. be ignored. Instead climb over the stile straight ahead 142 143 The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path Aberdaron to Abersoch – The Coastal Path for Walkers

keeping on the same line climb three further stiles until the crest of a valley is reached (sketch map 5.3). Drop down the hill to a bridge over a meandering stream, then bear right up the hill on the other side of the valley to reach a stile over a fence. Once over the stile turn left to reach another stile. Go over and then bear right along the fence to reach a gate and stile giving access to a lane (282293). Turn right. The route continues along the lane (sketch map 5.4). It will be noted that the OS map shows a right of way going left off the lane at 282292, which appears to go in the right direction. However, the access from the lane onto this right of way is vastly overgrown and difficult to find. A better alternative is to stay on the road and use a second access point as described below. and continue Walk along the lane for about 400yd until, as the in the same lane starts to drop and swing to the right, a stile is found direction down tucked away on the left in the hedgerow. The correct the field to another gate and stile. point is before Deuglawdd farm is reached. Go over the Keep on the same line as the hedge to the left drops stile and bear slightly left and up the gentle incline to away to reach a small footbridge over a stream. The reach a further stile. The route continues in the same line, spire of the church at can be seen and crossing several stiles and a kissing gate (sketch map 5.4) acts as a marker for the line across the field and soon until some telegraph poles are seen. Pass under the wires some buildings are reached with a gate giving access and over a shallow ditch and walk alongside a hedge to the road. towards a further set of telegraph poles. A stile and a gate are then seen on the right, so climb the stile and then bear left towards hedges on the other side of the field. Another LLANDEGWNING CHURCH stile takes you over the hedge from where a gate can be This church at is unusual in that its spire has an octag- seen opposite which gives access to the road at the vil- onal base but the upper part is a cone. It does not lage of . appear well used but is in a pretty spot. There are no known connections to the Bardsey pilgrims. LLANGIAN Turn right at the road, and after visiting the church on Plaques in the village show that Llangian has in the the left continue to a road junction. Bear right across the past won the ‘Best-kept village in Wales’ award, and bridge over the river to another junction and this time it is easy to see why. There is a pleasant church dating bear left onto the little lane. The lane continues past a from the 13th century, but in the churchyard there is campsite. Some 200yd from the junction a stile is found a particular rarity. on the left which gives access to the end of the campsite. This takes the form of a rough stone pillar Go over the stile and keep straight on by the wall and about 4ft high with a Latin inscription: Meli Medici/ 144 145 The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path Aberdaron to Abersoch – The Coastal Path for Walkers

comprising boulder clay, an unsuitable route for the pilgrims. Assuming then that travellers would have stayed on the rather drier, slightly higher land, they would have passed through Llangian to get round the back of the wetlands. However, it has to be said that this is supposition, and there is no other supporting evidence. The church itself is dedicated to St Cian who was a pupil of St Peris, after whom is named. There are only scant references to St Cian in ancient documents. He was thought to be a warrior and a poet, but what he did to become a saint is a mystery. Legend has it that he was a soldier who returned from one of the Roman armies. The links between this sol- dier and the patron saint of Llangian are tenuous but widely believed.

There are no rights of way leading S from Llangian and recourse must be made to the road. Take the road S signed to . After 500yd the road splits and the way lies left over the bridge at Bont Newydd (294284). The road then turns a sharp right bend then continues S to reach Llanengan 1 mile further on.

LLANENGAN Llanengan has an impressive parish church dating from the 15th century. The bells date from the 17th century and are believed to have come from the abbey The church at Llangian Fili Martini/Iacit meaning ‘(The stone) of Melus the on Bardsey, with which Llanengan was traditionally Doctor, son of Martinus, he lies (here)’. The rarity associated. Whether the association was started early value of the stone lies in the fact that it mentions the enough for Llanengan to be a stopping place on the deceased’s profession, the only early Christian grave pilgrims’ route is difficult to say. One writer notes ‘it in the whole of Britain to do so. The stone dates from was no doubt a point of call for Bardsey pilgrims’, but the 5th or early 6th century. substantial evidence is lacking. Although the church at Llangian is 13th cen- Llanengan is dedicated to Einion of whom men- tury, Melus’ gravestone shows that there was a tion has previously been made at Llanwnda (Chapter Christian here or nearby around the 2). He was styled ‘King’ of the Lleyn in the early 6th time of the early Bardsey saints. The landscape century, and was a descendant of Cunedda Wledig, behind Hell’s Mouth is a flat and swampy area the founder of Gwynedd. 146 147 The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path Aberdaron to Abersoch – The Coastal Path for Walkers

East from Hell’s The route continues past the church to a road junction Mouth where a right turn is made. This soon leads to the Sun Inn, which supplies the usual amenities. Passing the pub, stay on the road for half a mile to reach the small car park (284267). There is often a tea and snacks van parked here. Take the obvious track from the back of the car park towards the sea, until an obvious waymarked track is seen on the left (E). Take the track along the back of the dunes. The track is clear and well waymarked, and soon passes a campsite on the left near the end of the bay. The route starts to climb and turns south to gain the crest of the headland (see photo-diagram). Follow the line of the path with increasingly good views, passing a trig point and water storage build- ing (288241) with good views back to Hell’s Mouth. Continue until the tip of the headland is reached at Trwyn Cilan. The path now turns west and then north-west to approach Porth Ceiriad and passing by the high cliffs at Trwyn Llech-y-doll (301235). The path is very clear, Cliffs at Trwyn Llech-y-doll indeed in places has a fence both sides so navigation is 148 149 The Lleyn Peninsula Coastal Path Aberdaron to Abersoch – The Coastal Path for Walkers

Around Porth Ceiriad remarkably easy. Soon the path drops to the back of Porth footpath sign. Turn right and drop down towards the sea Approaching Ceiriad and continues to the next obvious headland at passing a picnic site on the left, and a small car park. Abersoch Trwyn yr Wylfa (see photo-diagram). However it is worth Another path junction is met and a left turn should be a short detour down to the beach – a great place for a made. This track now leads easily across the golf course, picnic. past the clubhouse on the left to reach a road. Turn left, Leaving the fields behind Porth Ceiriad the path then right at the main road in 150yd to drop into the cen- climbs and turns south-west onto the headland stay- tre of Abersoch. ing close to the cliffs until at the tip it swings round north-west and continues with excellent views includ- ing impressive cliffs and a cave (324254) and increas- ingly good views out to sea with St Tudwals Islands as foreground. The track continues along the headland gradu- ally losing height until some houses and a ruined tower appear on the right and the track joins an unmade lane. Turn right (322262). Drop down the lane, which is loose and shaly, and as the coastline gets close the lane veers round to the left passing some slipways. Soon a crossroads is met with a 150 151

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