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Home , Nap (fabric)

Sewing on Today’s Fabrics

ff”; Fake Fur,

Deep

and

‘9; Pile Fabrics

Fake Fur and Deep Pile Fabrics Fake fur and deep pile fabrics, designed to look like real or 'frankly faked, are important in the fashion field. These fabrics are usually of man-made fibers supported on either a knitted or woven backing of acrylic, modacrylic or fiber.

Fabric Selection and Preparation: 0 Buy the amount of yardage for “with ” fabrics. If nap yardage is not given on pattern, buy an additional 3A; to 3/4 yard—or more, if a design must be matched. 0 label to see how to care for fabric and to see if fabric needs to be preshrunk. Pre- shrink, if necessary.

Pattern Selection: ° Simple patterns with a minimum of darts and seams in coats, jackets, or accessories, and sleeveless overblouse or weskit are best. 0 If possible, or until greater skill in cutting and handling is developed, avoid collars and button- holes. 0 Avoid set-in L sleeves. Laying Pattern and Cutting: 0 Lay all pattern pieces in one direction so that nap of fabric runs down from shoulder to hem. - If necessary, match any pelt markings or shading. 0 Eliminate all unnecessary seams, such as center front and back seams. When constructing jackets or coats, cut straight facings in one with garment or from lighter weight matching lining fabric, if facings do not show. a Pin pattern to wrong side of fabric. Cut only one layer at a time. To do less damage to pile, cut with a razor blade from wrong side. ' Marking: To transfer pattern markings to fabric: 0 Use tailor’s tacks or stab a pin through fabric and mark with a soft lead pencil. Thread and Needle Selection: . Use heavy duty mercerized cotton thread. 0 Use a coarse, size 16, sewing machine needle. Sewing Tips: 0 Make the following sewing machine adjustments: —— loose tension. V — light pressure on the presser foot. — use 8-10 stitches per inch. Stitch seams in direction of the pile whenever possible. After stitching, use a straight pin or hatpin to pull out the fur caught in seams. This is done from the right side of the fabric. Reinforce points of strain with seam tape. 0 Shear pile from seam allowance to reduce bulk. 0 Do not clip curved seams too deeply. . Cut darts open and press flat. Shear pile as on seams. 0 For closures, consider frogs, braid loops or covered hooks since buttonholes are hard to make. - Hem with a fairly loose stitch. ‘ V Interfacings and Linings: - Use lightweight hair for interfacing coats and jackets. - Use lining material of and for coats and jackets. Pressing: ’ - Do test sample before pressing garment. 0 Some fake furs or deep pile fabrics of Verel modacrylic and Dynel modacrylic cannot be steam pressed. 0 Use only tip of iron to prevent flattening of pile. , 0 Try fingerrpressing first. - Place fabric, pile side down, on board, turkish towel or piece of . Use press cloth over backing. Steam lightly.

Pile Fabrics Velvet, , and are included in the group of pile fabrics. Fabric Selection and Preparation: 0 Buy amount of yardage given on pattern envelope for “with nap” fabrics. 0 If nap yardage is not given, buy an extra 3/8 to 3/4, yard. 0 Preshrink fabric, if necessary. Pattern Selection: 3 Choose a simple design that will emphasize the fabric. 0 Look for minimum of seams, darts and tucks. 0 Avoid top-stitching details as this may mar the fabric. 0 Pile of fabric should all run in the same direction. For richer color, cut velvet, corduroy, vel- veteen and velour with nap running up. For durability, cut corduroy with pile running down; cut fleece fabrics with pile running down. . 0 Lay pattern pieces on right-side of fabric to prevent pile from matting. 0 Use sharp. pins. Pin in seam allowance to prevent marring fabric. 0 Match ribs on wide-wale corduroy and stripes. Thread and Needle Selection: - Size 11 or 14 machine needle1s usually best. . or ' ° Use mercerized cotton for corduroy and velveteen; or mercerized cotton for and 1 . " Sewing Tips: 0 Do directional staystitching on all curved and bias edges. 0 If necessary to baste, use silk thread or size 100 mercerized cotton thread to prevent leaving an impression after basting is removed. Basting may help to prevent seam puckering. 0 Necessary sewing machine adjustments: — light tension and pressure. ’ —— use 10-12 stitches per inch. ° Overcast, zig-zag, or stitch and pink raw edges to prevent raveling. - Always sew in the direction of pile. I V - Lightweight fabric may be used for facings to prevent bulk. Taffeta or a firm silk-like fabric is suitable. I . ° Pile fabrics are not usually underlined. 0 Professional-looking buttonhol-es are hard to make except in cotton . Do sample before putting in garment. Simple closures such as loops, frogs, covered snaps, hooks and zippers applied by hand are best. A ‘ 0 Pink and stitch or zig-zag hem raw edge; loosely catch to garment with dressmaker’s or tailor’s hem stitch. Or, apply seam binding to raw edge and loosely catch to garment.

Pressing : 0 Use up-down motion—do not push iron. 0 Steam press on wrong side only. 0' Needleboard is best to use. Place fabric down on needleboard before pressing. If needleboard is not available, pad ironing board with a thick turkish towel or a large strip of leftover fabric. 4 0 Use the following method to steam pile fabrics to remove wrinkles-or at places where needle- board is not convenient to use: , , _ stand iron on end and cover with damp cloth. M —— hold velvet lightly to avoid finger marks. ‘" —— run the wrong side of the fabric against the covered iron. 0 Use pressing equipment, such as, seam roll covered withfabric scraps, where applicable.

Other Publications in Sewing on Today’s Fabrics Series: Woven Fabrics of Man-made Diagonals, Plaids and. Checks Double Knit Fabrics nded and Laminated Fabrics “retch and Vinyl Fabrics Double Cloth

Prepared by: Ruby T. Miller Dorothy L. Barrier V Extension Clothing Specialists

Published by THE NORTH CAROLINA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE North Carolina State University at Raleigh and the U. S. Department of Agriculture, Cooperating, State College Station Raleigh, N. C., George Hyatt, Jr., Director. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, 1914. 5-68-5M Home Economics 91