• Meissen Porcelain • • Europe Briefing GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, , Switzerland & the New Europe

THIS ISSUE: • Readers' Forum

DEAR SUBSCRIBER OBERSTDORF November 28, 1994 Though seldom visited by Americans, Oberstdorf, in Germany's Allgau, is an enormously popular ski and "cure" destination for Germans. Gemütlichkeit editor/publisher, Bob Bestor, was there recently. Cheaper to Ski Europe? Could an Austrian ski vacation berstdorf is about Those driving to Driving south from possibly be less expensive than one as far south as Oberstdorf should use Memmingen, one can take in Colorado? The Austrian Tourist one can go and Mairs Deutschland Die the autobahn to below Office seems to think so. They sent O Generalkarte #25 (scale Kempten but we recom- us a press release complete with still be in Germa- 1:200,000) or ADAC # 14 mend the yellow road to charts that show a one-week ski ny. In a wide, flat valley vacation in three Austrian ski areas surrounded by mountains Bodensee, Schwäbische Alb, Ottobeuren and its — Innsbruck, Zell Am See and St. that offer some of Germa- Allgäu. Approaching from fabulous church, then a Anton/Arlberg — range from $1,002 ny’s finest skiing, this resort the west, Lindau or leisurely backroads drive to $1,600 per person, while a week town is in that tip of Bregenz, we suggest south through such towns in Aspen or Park City, Utah, is slightly Germany that extends into heading south to Federal as Untrasried and Betzi- over $1,600. Austria about midway Road (red on maps) #200 gau. Below Kempten, find between Füssen in Bavaria which goes east to Hittsau. Sulzberg and go south on Of course the ATO is hardly and the Austrian city of From there continue east on the green-edged yellow unbiased in these matters, but that Bregenz, at the eastern end the Main Road (yellow on road through Ottacker, doesn’t necessarily mean they are the map) that crosses the Rottach and Gindels, wrong either. So we decided to do of Lake Constance. border from Austria to paralleling Federal Road some checking on our own. First, It is reached by rail from we determined the elements of a ski Germany at Schönhalden. 19, all the way to Oberst- Kempten via Sonthofen, or At this point the drive dorf. vacation: air fare, ground transport, from Lindau via Immen- lodging, meals and lift tickets. From becomes especially scenic. stadt and Sonthofen. Continued on page 3… New York, the best roundtrip airfare we could find to Aspen in early hen the Iron unscathed — surviving January was $651. According to MEISSEN fires, floods and wars — the Aspen Skiing Company, a well- Curtain descended located bed and breakfast would set W after World War AND ITS Meissen was left to molder us back $279 per night but we in- II, it deprived Westerners under communist rule. At sisted on cheaper accommodations of visitation rights to some PORCELAIN the time of unification, and were quoted $83, or $41.50 per of Germany's most splen- Bruce Woelfel reports on many buildings were nearly in ruins. The town person, at Aspen’s Buckhorn Lodge did treasures. A few, like Meissen and its Staatliche (no breakfast). We assumed taxi is now being rebuilt — a the Pergamon Museum in Porzellanmanufactur, fare from the airport to the hotel at huge task. Many houses East Berlin, were accessible producer of lavish, intricate about $20 and we also assumed from West Berlin on foot, lean precariously, seem- porcelain, including the one could eat three decent meals a by tour bus or private car, ingly held up by scaffold- famed Dresden China. day in Aspen for $40. A six-day lift provided one was willing ing; most have no indoor ticket would be $228. Whether we to put up with the tedious the fabulously detailed plumbing, only toilets in a went to Aspen or Innsbruck, we rear yard. would take our own skis, boots and and often unsettling border porcelain of the Saxon town crossing process. But poles, so let’s call that a push. of Meissen in museums, Still, Meissen is a lively driving unattended in East castles and shops, the place place with a colorful Germany's countryside — To compare, we decided on a where it was made was central market, dating one-week package to Innsbruck except on a very few West hidden from our view. But back to 1150, and other from Austria Ski (1535 West Loop Germany-to-West Berlin that, of course, has all smaller plazas. When we South, #319, Houston TX 77027- corridors where western changed. This 1000-year- visited, a plaza on a back 9509, phone 800-333-5533, fax drivers were not allowed to old city is now wide open street was host to a 713-960-8966) for $792 per per- leave the autobahn — was to tourists. “European Festival” with son, double occupancy. It includes verboten . Though visitors roundtrip air to Munich, ground a boisterous audience to West Germany could see Though for hundreds of Continued on page 2… years it remained relatively Continued on page 7… November, 1994 seven nights accommodations, and breakfast or writing in the Placerville Times (California) about DEAR SUBSCRIBER breakfast plus lunch or dinner. Prices begin at driving on the German autobahn. After pulling into Continued from page 1 $789 per person, double occupancy, from New the right lane to allow for a much faster car to York or Boston, $859 from Atlanta, $854 from rocket past, Mr. White says, "I looked down at my transport between Munich and Innsbruck, and six Chicago and Cincinnati, $930 from Los Angeles speedometer to make sure I hadn't inadvertently nights at the Pension Alpina, including breakfast. and $836 from Philadelphia and Washington. The parked." Our six-day lift ticket is $158 and we figured eating rates apply to all Swiss resorts plus Kitzbühel would a bit more expensive in Austria and that Then he offered this right-on advice: (Austria), Chamonix (France), Courmayeur (Italy) lunch and dinner would set us back $40 per day. and Garmisch-Partenkirchen in Germany. For "Good road maps are essential. The best So here’s the breakdown for a week of skiing those arranging their own air transport to Europe, place to find them we discovered, is Germany. in Innsbruck and Aspen, assuming one flies from Swissair also offers land-only packages at 26 They are printed in German, but so are the places New York. Alpine resorts that include seven nights hotel, we were going. It only took a short time to figure breakfast or breakfast plus lunch or dinner, and out what the symbols meant and how to determine Innsbruck Aspen transfers via first class rail or bus. Using Kitzbühel mileage ('kilomterage,' that is) between points." Airfare Incl. $651 as an example, the price for a week in January at Hotel Incl. $249 the "first class" Hotel Jagerwirt is $645. Book with "We had picked up maps at AAA before leav- Breakfast Incl. $48 a travel agent or call Swisspak at 800-688-7947. ing, thinking they would suffice. Compared to Lunch/Dinner $240 $192 their detailed German counterparts, the domestic Lift Ticket $158 $228 No Soap? No Way! variety came up short, offering a bare overview of Ground Transport Incl. $40 Our service which clips travel articles on Ger- main autobahns and secondary roads. The maze Package Cost $792 NA many, Austria and Switzerland provides a constant of byways simply did not appear, and without such Totals $1,190 $1,408 source of interesting reading. The Los Angeles information, we could have been seriously lost instead of just periodically off course." Going west, the price for the Austria Ski pack- Times is among the country's most respected newspapers, but a full-page feature for business age increases: it's an extra $87 from Chicago, $195 "We obtained maps of Germany and nearby travelers to Germany had this advice on hotels: from Houston and $231 from Los Angeles. Of countries from the Reutlingen office of the ADAC "Although more business-class accommodations course it is also true that the closer one gets to (Allgemeiner Deutscher Automobil-Club; German now have rooms with private baths, many hotels Aspen, the lower the airfare will be. You can equivalent to our AAA)." upgrade the hotel in Innsbruck to the four-star still have shared bathrooms, so make sure to Hotel Sailer for an additional $110. I don’t know request a room with private bath if you want one. The kind of maps referred to by Mr. White, I the Sailer but would be willing to bet it’s substan- Remember that many German hotels do not pro- would add, are available at most service stations tially better than the Buckhorn. vide soap." and book stores in Germany and, in this country, through Gemütlichkeit's retail travel store/cata- I can't remember the last time I was in a hotel We chose Austria Ski for our comparison log, Travel Essentials, phone 800-521-6722. because we know it is a reputable company with in Germany (or Austria or Switzerland) that didn't long experience in selling Austrian ski vacations. have soap. Many three-star hotels, and virtually Car Rent Prices Continue Down every four-star hotel, equip guest bathrooms with According to the ATO press release, many Two months ago we quoted an industry source a tray of complimentary toiletries containing the packages to Austria may also contain such add- who predicted a week's rental in Germany on a usual collection of shampoo, bath gel, conditioner, ons as a welcome party and a farewell dinner. Mercedes Benz of "less than $100." It sounded soap and so on. As for shared bathrooms, they still There are packages to Aspen but phone calls to farfetched but just at press time we received new, exist but seldom in hotels where American busi- travel agencies revealed that most one-week As- generally lower, car rental rates including a price nessmen would go. In any case, every price quote pen ski vacations start at around $600 and don’t of $109 for a BMW 316i. Last year, a week in such for a hotel room I've ever gotten was very specific include airfare. a car would set one back anywhere from $290 to as to the facilities. The Times writer is about 15 $450. The Ford Escort category (also VW Golf, Swissair’s winter ski program may be even years behind the times. better. Their package includes roundtrip economy Opel Astra) is now $69 per week. Rates don't class flights to Zürich or Geneva, roundtrip ground On the Autobahn include 15% value added tax or collision insur- transport between airport and the chosen resort, More enjoyable was a story by Stan White ance. Phone 800-521-6722.

Vol. 8, No. 11 HOTEL RESTAURANT RATING KEY November, 1994 GEMüTLICHKEIT The Travel Letter for Germany, Austria, Switzerland & the New Europe Rating Category Scale Hotel Rating Criteria Unacceptable 0 - 3 People/Service 30% Editor & Publisher: Robert H. Bestor, Jr. Adequate 4 - 7 Location/Setting 15% Associate Editors: Elizabeth Schiller, Bruce Woelfel Average 8 - 11 Guestrooms 30% Contributing Editors: C. Fischer, R. Holliday Above Average 12 - 15 Public rooms 5% Design & Composition: Paul T. Merschdorf Excellent 16 - 20 Facilities/Restaurant 20% Consulting Editor: Thomas P. Bestor Subscription Dept:. Andy Bestor, K. Steffans Special Designations Restaurant Criteria Gemütlichkeit (ISSN 10431756) is published monthly by UpCountry Publish- G By virtue of location, decor, Food 65% ing, 2892 Chronicle Avenue, Hayward, CA 94542. TOLL FREE: 1-800/521- special charm, warmth of Service 20% 6722 or 510/538-0628. FAX: 510/582-8296. Subscriptions are $67 per year management, or combina- Atmosphere 15% for 12 issues. While every effort is made to provide correct information in this tion thereof, an especially publication, the publishers can make no guarantees regarding accuracy. pleasant establishment. Second-class postage paid in Hayward, CA. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO: $ Offers significant value. Gemütlichkeit, 2892 Chronicle Ave., Hayward, CA 94542

Gemütlichkeit 2 November, 1994 through traffic, so nearly all its hotels However, the engaging, grandmoth- OBERSTDORF could be rated as “quiet.” You will, erly owner, Gisela Schüle, made a Continued from page 1 however, pay a premium for the point of telling us that short-term resort location. guests are welcome during the A couple of statistics immediately occasional periods when the hotel tell one what Oberstdorf is all about. Oberstdorf Hotels isn’t full. This is a town with only 12,000 permanent residents but with 16,000 Kneippkurhaus The hotel’s splendid public and beds for visitors. It attracts some 2.3 Christliches Hospiz guest rooms are decorated in that million overnight guests annually special sort of rustic elegance in This is the only hotel in Germany which, according to the Oberstdorf which the finest country hotels of authorized to use the word tourist office, is more than any other Germany, Austria and Switzerland hospiz in its name, a rather spa or holiday resort in Germany. seem to specialize. But you won’t see dubious distinction since EDITOR’S Visitors stay an average of 12 days, a any of the kitschy touches like acres some mistake it as a place CHOICE tip-off that the 2.3 million figure of floral tile, drapes, carpet and wall doesn't include very many Americans. paper, or lumber truck loads of OBERSTDORF ponderous dark wood, that so often Two factors account for Oberst- Population: 11,000 give this decorating style a dim, dorf's popularity: the winter sports Altitude: 2,674 feet somber look. Here the look is and the fact that in 1937 it was Approximate distances from: glistening and sprightly with plenty designated a “climatic health resort.” Munich 165 km 102 miles of blond wood and modern lighting. If Germany ever adopts a bill of Kempten 39 km 24 miles rights, the famous "cure" vacation will Zürich 215 km 133 miles Guestrooms are spacious with undoubtedly lead the list. And dazzling white walls, light wood trim, Tourist Information Oberstdorf gets more than its share of high-backed easy chairs in a separate Kurverwaltung und Verkehrsamt visitors adhering to this beloved Marktplatz 7 sitting area, and ample, sparkling custom. The town brims with spa Oberstdorf D-87561 bathrooms. Many, like Number 329, Phone: 08322/7000 have expansive windows that open hotels and sanatoriums. But unlike Fax: 08322/700236 many European resorts, the town has onto large balconies with fine kept a steady hand on growth. There mountain views. Approximate Lift Ticket Prices are no high rises. High Season Top of the line in every respect. (December to early January, In winter, skiing is the main end January to early April) Address: Kneippkurhaus Christliches attraction. There are 40 kilometers of # Days Adult Child Senior Hospiz, Ludwigstrasse 37-41a, D- downhill runs and 60 kilometers of 1 $36 $26 $34 87561 Oberstdorf cross-country tracks. The town also 2 $68 $49 $64 Phone: 08322/701-0 has three indoor skating rinks and the 3 $94 $69 $89 Fax: 08322/701 516 4 $112 $82 $106 world’s highest ski jump. In summer Location: Central there many miles of hiking paths, 5 $132 $96 $124 6 $148 $108 $140 Rooms: 108 total, 70 singles, 38 tennis courts, a nine-hole golf course doubles; all designated nonsmoking and nearly 40 hotel and municipal Approximate Lift Ticket Prices Low Season Proprietor: Gisela & Theodor Schüle swimming pools. (2nd week January to end January) Prices: 170 to 239 DM ($110-$155) 339 Hiking and climbing are principal- # Days Adult Child Senior to 426 DM ($220-$277), including all ly accessed via cable car to the 1706 1 $36 $15 $30 meals 2 $68 $44 $56 meter Söllereck (easiest), the 2039 3 $89 $64 $81 Facilities: Fitness room, indoor pool, meter Feldhorn (a bit more challeng- 4 $106 $76 $95 therapy pool ing) and, for serious climbers, the 5 $124 $90 $112 Credit Cards: All Nebelhorn at 2224 meters. 6 $140 $101 $126 Disabled: Yes Closed: First three weeks in December Recommended excursions from where people go to die. Though the Oberstdorf are the Breitach Gorge Kneippkurhaus Christliches Hospiz Parking: Free (Breitachklamm), a narrow, deep ravine would be a good place to spend one’s Rating: EXCELLENT 18.5/20 G through which surges a powerful last days, it is not a hospice in that torrent, and to the , a sense of the word. It is, however, by Parkhotel Frank pretty valley that is physically in far the finest hotel we saw in Oberst- This sedate, four-star hotel in a Austria but can only be reached dorf and probably among the top 15 residential area near the center, favors through Germany and in whose three we’ve ever reviewed. massive beams and oversized little hamlets, Riezlern, Hirschegg and furniture in a homey atmosphere. , the acceptable currency is The problem here is getting in. At the Frank you’ll particularly the deutschemark. Most guests reserve a year in advance and stay for two or three weeks, so like the indoor pool and Jaccuzi, after- Being virtually at the end of the your chances of dropping by for a dinner zither music by the fire, the road, Oberstdorf has very little couple of overnights aren’t good. Continued on page 4…

Gemütlichkeit 3 November, 1994 hotel’s cozy nooks and corners and, in Rooms: 78 total, 24 singles, 48 Rooms: 27 rooms including 4 singles summer, an expansive outdoor doubles Proprietor: Family Gras terrace and lawn area. Proprietor: Family Ludwig Riegg Prices: 75 to 93 DM ($49-$60), 150 to Room Number 30, a small suite, Prices: 165 to 216 DM ($107-$140), 186 DM ($97-$121) has an extraordinary bathroom. A 320 to 340 DM ($208-$221) Facilities: Indoor pool, sauna, large oval tub is surrounded by Facilities: Indoor pool, sauna, whirlpool, solarium mirrors and the room is done in small solarium, fitness room, massage, Credit Cards: Not accepted squares of gold, black, red and blue outdoor terrace, beauty center Disabled: Not suitable tile. There is also a double sink, Credit Cards: All Closed: Never hairdryer, heated towel rack and a Disabled: Not suitable Parking: Free separate room for the toilet. Closed: Never Other: Lobby has no-smoking section Parking: Free Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 14/20 $ Not in a class with the Hospiz Other: Hotel runs bus to town every (above) but otherwise the best we saw two hours Hotel Waldesruhe in Oberstdorf. Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 15/20 Another hotel located above the Address: Parkhotel Frank, Sachsen- valley, west of the town center. weg 11, D-87561 Oberstdorf Nebelhorn Blick Views are excellent. The Waldesruhe Phone: 08322/70 60 The flower-lined balconies and is a favorite of ski jumpers. Fax: 08322/706 286 cheery public rooms of the chalet- Address: Hotel Waldesruhe, Alte Location: Central style Nebelhorn look out across the Walserstrasse 20, D-87561 Oberstdorf Rooms: 68 total, including 9 singles valley to the town and the mountains Phone: 08322/40 61 Proprietor: Robert Frank beyond. Fax: 08322/83 27 Prices: 45 to 205 DM ($94-$134), 302 to It is one of Oberstdorf’s better Location: West of Oberstdorf on a hill 406 DM ($196-$264), including hotel values. Room Number 16, overlooking the valley and the town breakfast and dinner probably the best room — and deal — Rooms: 38 rooms including 11 singles Facilities: Indoor pool, sauna, fitness in the house, is a junior suite that Proprietor: Axel Brutscher room, outdoor terrace, children’s rents for 150 DM ($98), on a self- Prices: playroom 88 to 118 DM ($57-$77),176 to service basis (no breakfast, make your 300 DM ($114-$195) Credit Cards: All own bed). Its side-by-side twin beds Facilities: Indoor pool, small fitness Disabled: Yes jut at an angle from a wood-paneled room, sauna, terrace for outdoor Closed: November to mid-December, corner of the room. This cozy nook is dining end of April bathed in light from modern fixtures Credit Cards: Not accepted Parking: Free recessed in the wood-paneled ceiling. Disabled: Not suitable Rating: EXCELLENT 17/20 Beyond the bedroom is a comfortably furnished separate sitting room that Closed: Last week October to Kurhotel Adula opens onto a balcony with a fine December 18 Parking: Free Large, typical upscale German view. There is also a small kitchen, Other: Restaurant has excellent view resort hotel, similar in style to the but the bathroom is unfortunately of valley; no shuttle to train, taxi is 12 Frank. This one, however, is perched done in a garish burnt-orange tile. DM ($8) on a hillside above the town, afford- Large, recently-remodeled double Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 14/20 ing excellent views of the valley, rooms, such as Number 40, with mountains and village — particularly balcony, high, open-beam ceiling and Haus Wiese from the large, outdoor, south-facing separate sitting area, go for 180 DM Very much a private home terrace. ($117). atmosphere. The front door is The view is also pleasant from the Public rooms are most pleasant, usually locked and the small recep- Adula’s huge dining room which particularly the dining room, and tion area seldom attended. Number serves good, but not great, food. there is a lovely little indoor pool with seven, a corner room with wide If you like the vistas and don’t adjacent Jacuzzi. windows and a view of the moun- mind not being in the center of town, tains and village, was full of carved The Nebelhorn offers no transpo- wood furniture and antiques but you’ll enjoy the Adula as much as the rtation downtown, though a bus stops Frank. marred by an aroma that bore nearby every half-hour in season. witness to the many smokers who Address: Kurhotel Adula, In der Leite Address: Nebelhorn Blick, Kornau 49, had gone before. 6, D-87561 Oberstdorf D-87561, Oberstdorf-Kornau Phone: 08322/70 90 There is a small indoor pool and Phone: 08322/4086 management is friendly, but it’s Fax: 08322/709 403 Fax: 08322/7341 getting time for some refurbishment. Location: On a hillside in Jauchen Location: In Kornau, about four about 1.5 kilometers west of Oberst- kilometers west of Oberstdorf’s center Address: Haus Wiese, Stillachstrasse dorf 4 a, D-87561 Oberstdorf

Gemütlichkeit 4 November, 1994 Phone: 08322/30 30 Number seven, rents for 160 DM ham in a thick cream sauce. Except Location: Residential area about one ($104). The best room in the house is for a small tomato on the skewer kilometer from the center spacious Number 34 (220 DM/$143) there were no vegetables. A better Rooms: 13 rooms, 4 singles, 5 doubles where everything from tile to furni- dish was Poulardenbrüsten (29 DM/ ture is handmade. $19), several slices of chicken breast in Proprietor: Family Wiese a light reduction sauce that came with Prices: 95 to 105 DM ($62-$68), 170 to Address: Hotel Adler, Fuggerstrasse steamed broccoli sprinkled with 210 DM ($110-$136) 1, D-87561 Oberstdorf almond slices. A side of bland white Facilities: Indoor pool but no lift or Phone: 08322/30 59 fettuccini arrived without sauce. restaurant Fax: 08322/81 87 Credit Cards: Not accepted Location: Residential, close to center This was late November and it Disabled: Not suitable Rooms: 33 rooms, 1 guest house, 8 was a pleasant surprise to find the Closed: Never singles first wine of the French harvest, Parking: Free Proprietor: Otto Jäger Beaujolais Nouveau. We were charged 19 DM ($12.50) for a small carafe. Rating: AVERAGE 11/20 Prices: 85 to 95 DM ($55-$62), 150 to 170 DM ($97-$110) Another welcome beverage was the Czech beer, Budweiser or Budvar, Hotel Traube Facilities: Outdoor terrace for dining, though it was somewhat below par. Recently remodeled rooms make no lift Business is slow at this time of year the centrally-located Traube another Credit Cards: Not accepted and the keg may have been around good value. One rather bizarre Disabled: Not suitable too long. feature, however, is that all bath- Closed: 10 November to 15 Decem- rooms are glassed-in, though a curtain ber, last two weeks of April A good but hardly memorable can be drawn over the glass for Parking: Free meal. The bill for two persons was privacy. Number 17, the “wedding Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 14/20 $ 126 DM ($82), including wine and room” has a canopied bed, mirrored beer. ceiling, whirlpool tub and a balcony Restaurants with a view of the mountains. Adula Hotel Restaurant, Fugger- Depending on the season, it rents for Adula Hotel Restaurant strasse 1, D-87561 Oberstdorf, phone 180 to 240 DM ($117-$156). Our visit to the Adula was during 08322/30 59, fax 08322/81 87. Moderately expensive. In summer, the beer garden under the off-season and the wood-paneled chestnut trees is most pleasant. dining room with white stucco walls was less than a third full. We were Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 12/20 The Traube’s ebullient and seated at a banquette near a window Dampfbierbrauerei friendly owner, Reinhard Scheuerl, is with a good view of the lights of the an avid golfer. valley and village below, including In search of a late, inexpensive dinner one night we landed at the Address: Hotel Traube, Hauptsrasse Oberstdorf’s nicely-lit church steeple. Dampfbierbrauerei (steam beer 6, D-87561 Oberstdorf We found pink table cloths, white brewery). It is to be avoided. One Phone: 08322/46 48 napkins, a small bouquet of daisies and silver salvers at each place (but finds good beer everywhere in Fax: 08322/31 68 Germany, but the dampfbier made on Location: Central no silver covers, thank goodness). One meal came already dished; the the premises was cloudy and reminis- Rooms: 9 rooms, including 2 singles other was served from a copper saute cent of a bad batch at a below average Proprietor: Reinhard Scheuerl pan. California brew pub. Three-tenths of Prices: 80 to 110 DM ($52-$71) 130 to a liter costs 3.7 DM ($2.50). 240 DM ($85-$156) A "gift-of-the-kitchen" starter was Nor can we recommend the food. Facilities: No lift, beer garden under a tomato puree and two small shrimp Schnitzel (18.5 DM/$12) was barely chestnut trees in aspic served in an herbed mayon- passable as were the pommes frites Credit Cards: All naise. Novel and tasty. served with it. Hirschgeschnetzeltes Disabled: Not suitable A run-of-the-mill salad buffet (9.5 (19.5 DM/$13), sauteed chopped Closed: Restaurant closed November DM/$6.25) included butter lettuce, venison in a cream sauce, had a to mid-December tomato slices, red and yellow peppers strange taste; the accompanying Parking: Free with sliced onions, grated carrots and spätzel was tasteless and brussels Other: Restaurant has zither music sliced cucumber with the usual choice sprouts were cooked to mush. four nights each week of dressings. Dampfbierbrauerei, Bahnhofsplatz Rating: ABOVE AVERAGE 13/20 One main dish was rostspies (33 6-8. D-87561 Oberstdorf. Closed Hotel Adler DM/$21.50), in this case a skewer of Mondays. Inexpensive-moderate. four veal strips stuffed with a mild, Rating: UNACCEPTABLE 3/20 Oberstdorf’s top value white cheese and topped with porcini is the Adler where a EDITOR’S CHOICE mushrooms. Alongside was green comfortable double such as and white fettuccini with flecks of

Gemütlichkeit 5 November, 1994 dollar. I know this is true because we room). The other nights we were in have sent people to the hotel who are individual rooms. The scenery was READERS' on strict budgets and I have always spectacular and it was an experience I asked for rooms in the old section so will never forget. If your readers are that they could save money. What is interested they can contact Andrew FORUM “Salvation Army” furniture to some Sanders at IBEX TREKS (Amsterdam, may mean very old Bavarian Gemütli- Netherlands, phone 020/671-8202, fax In Defense of the Geiger chkeit to others. Clara and I stayed in 020/625-7312.) The cost for the 7 1/2 My wife, Helen, and I recently the old wing for many years after the days was approximately $900 per returned from a month in Europe, new wing was built. After our age person. primarily in Germany. Catching up and exchequers expanded, we I enjoy Gemütlichkeit newsletter on our reading, we noted with interest decided to try the new wing. We very much. In Wengen we stayed at your question in the July 28th issue of actually miss the old wing but prefer Hotel Alpenruhe that was recom- Gemütlichkeit. The item dealt with the the amenities of the new. Mr. Geiger mended by you. Geiger Hotel in Berchtesgaden. Two has actually added a third-floor to the Carol Tanklage, Redwood City CA of your readers complained about new wing which has an even better problems at the Geiger, you asked: view of the Watzmann than the lower Yes on Baden-Baden Hotel anyone been there recently? floors. Although family concerns have prevented us from traveling in recent Because of our total delight with The hotel runs better when Mr. years we enjoy our trips vicariously the charming Geiger Hotel in a 1985 Hugo Geiger is there. He has an with Gemütlichkeit. In your September trip, we decided to spend three nights excellent personality and is an issue I was delighted to find that you there this time, August 5, 6, 7. We outstanding man. There is a tenden- have “discovered” one of our Baden- wrote in advance to Herr Geiger, and cy for the mouse to play when the Baden favorites - the Rebenhof. We reserved Room 205. It was a total cat’s away and I’m sure that Stefan have overnighted there on several winner in every way, and we enjoyed Geiger will mature into a fine hotelier occasions and always go for at least conversations with both Hugo Geiger with a few more years under his belt one meal when we’re in the and his son, Stefan. We dined there of working with his father. Schwarzwald area. We agree that it each night, and couldn’t be more Once again, this is our favorite has to be the best value around. satisfied. You described your own hotel in the world (of any category or experiences at the Geiger as “terrific”. Have you checked out Monchs- location). I suspect that the hotel was We can only echo that in capital Posthotel in Bad Herrenalb? This is full and Mr. Jamieson was given a letters: TERRIFIC! Probably any place another favorite. The staff has always room which has not yet become part can have an off moment or two but we been kind to us and we have especial- of the general refurbishing program. were so charmed by the Geiger and ly enjoyed staying there at Christmas This may have been coupled with a the Geigers that we are returning next time. The Christmas Eve cold buffet rare instance when neither Hugo nor year. was outstanding. Stefan were present — to the detri- Meanwhile, continue your ment of the guests. It also may have Thanks for helping us recall excellent reports. been bad luck. happy memories through your newsletters. Bill Diehl, St. Paul MN This is a great place and I think Joanne Koch, Grosse Point Farms MI Geiger Defense, Part 2 most folks who read your publication You asked for an update on the will agree. Top Salzburg Restaurant Hotel Geiger. Clara and I were there Victor P Obninsky, Tiburon CA In Salzburg, if you are interested, several months ago and will return Walking Switzerland the best restaurant by a considerable next March as a prelude to a trip to margin this year is Purzelbaum. I have just returned from my Southern Africa. I have lost exact fourth trip to Switzerland in the last The festival this year was very count, but this will be either our 18th six years. Normally my daughters good, with a smashing production of or 19th visit there. If Mr. Geiger were and I take the lifts up to the top and Boris Godunov, and a complete cycle of to incorporate, I would ask him for spend the day hiking down from the Beethoven symphonies by Nickolaus some promotional shares for free. We mountains and we enjoy the many Harnoncourt and the Chamber sent two couples there this summer inns on the way down. The last trip Orchestra of Europe. and they had a fine time! we decided to do it the “Swiss way” - Donald & Jeanne Kahn, Salzburg, The only explanation I have of Mr. no lifts. We started in Kandersteg Austria Jamieson's problems relates a little to and finished in Lauterbrunnen. It Europe in Review his room. Room 12 is the oldest part was an experience of a lifetime. You Just returned from Europe and of the hotel and some of the rooms are have to be in good physical condition wanted to give you a little feedback a bit worn by the years. The rooms as you hike 7-8 hours per day. At since we used your recommendations are also the cheapest and constitute times we were 8,000 to 9,000 ft. We in several cases. some of the best bargains available in stayed two nights in the mountain Europe during the times of our weak huts (as many as 20 people in the • Hamburg - stayed at the Vier

Gemütlichkeit 6 November, 1994 Jahreszeiten. Great hotel, although I mentary drinks, coffee or tea, and In spite of my sniping, you do an wonder if it is worth the price for newspapers (including the Herald excellent job. those not on an expense account. We Tribune). The desk got us theater Robert Simons, St Cloud WI were very disappointed with dinner tickets, recommended nice restau- in The Grill. rants and was generally very pleas- (Ed. note: We have no beef with Mr. ant. The breakfast buffet was out- Simons, who owns a travel company and • Würzburg - wonderful town! standing and served in a very is extremely knowledgeable about the We stayed at the zur Stadt Mainz as cheerful room. hotels of Baden-Baden.) you recommended. Great! The proprietress was welcoming and the • Took the hydrofoil to Budapest. (More ed. notes: Last month we room nice (although on the fourth Easy, cheap, comfortable, pleasant. published a letter by Mr. Martin Ems of floor with no elevator). Dinner in the Definitely the way to go. Stayed at San Francisco. We left out a key part of charming dining room was marvelous the Forum. This is a big modern hotel his comments about the Hotel Domus' — both the food and the service were but I wouldn’t recommend anything convenient location. The paragraph special. The breakfast buffet in that but big modern hotels in Budapest. should have read that the hotel is "a 10- same room was extraordinary. This is We didn’t see any older, charming minute walk to Kurfürstendamm, a 20- a “primo” place. hotels and I suspect they don’t exist. minute walk to Zoo railway and S-Bahn The Forum was busy, bustling with station, a 15-minute walk to the Savigny • Passau - another lovely town, businessmen and tour groups, but Platz S-Bahn station, the latter being far right on the . We stayed at friendly and efficient. Our room less crowded than the Zoo station." The the Wilder Mann. This hotel is well looked across the Danube at the underlined portion was inadvertently located and our room nice, but the Palace — a gorgeous view. Our only omitted.) lobby was cold and unwelcoming as complaint was that we couldn’t get was the staff. The restaurant was a the concierge to steer us to good MEISSEN big disappointment, considering the simple restaurants. He insisted on Continued from page 1 Michelin star. Service was well sending us to fancy, expensive, meaning but incompetent and the watching performers from Hungary, “international” places that he thought room is cold and bare. The food was the Czech Republic, and other Eastern more appropriate for foreign guests good but nothing more and not worth European countries, singing, playing (and from which he got commis- its high price. and dancing. Above Meissen a sions?). When we specifically asked fortified monastery and castle • Vienna - stayed at Pension him about some places we had read overlooks the narrow streets and low Altstadt for five nights. Absolutely about, he turned up his nose and said buildings. superior! Well located if you’re (exact words) “Oh, not for you!” willing to do a little walking (and Gundel’s, incidentally, is a great Near the town are large kaolin what are you in Vienna for but to restaurant, worth seeing — big, deposits, one of the purest of the walk and enjoy). This place is beautiful, good food, full of Ameri- clays. Because it is easily molded, has exceptionally friendly and comfort- cans, expensive — but only once; or a fine texture and is white when fired, able. We asked for and got room 14 so we thought. After following the it is used in the making of fine and, as you suggested, it was glori- guidance of our concierge three other porcelain. (Kaolin is also found in ous, especially the ballroom size bath. nights, maybe a second night at Cornwall, England and in France.) Gundel’s would have been a good An illustrative story - we arrived An alchemist, Johann Friedrich idea. tired and frazzled in our packed Bottger, discovered the secret of rental car during the evening rush Thank you for pointing us to some producing porcelain while unsuccess- hour. There was no place to park, so good places. fully attempting to make gold in the we double parked to unload and one Warren Albright & Per Schelde, Bruhlsche Terrasse in Dresden. In of us was going to try and negotiate Washington CT 1710, August the Strong established traffic and return the car to the the first large-scale European porce- Budget office, which we could only Baden-Baden Hotels lain manufacturing operation in the hope to find, given the intricacies of Please do not waste space on castle. It was later shifted to its one way streets and traffic in Vienna. places like the Brenner's Park in present location. The proprietor of the Altstadt, Mr Baden-Baden. Leave that to Condé Meissen's principal attraction, Wiesenthal, and his young man, Nast et al and stay with the places naturally, is the ceramic museum and rushed down to help us with the that are not so obvious or so ridicu- manufacturing plant. The museum luggage and then he insisted on lous in price. The best bang for the pieces are amazingly detailed, with returning the car to the rental office buck in Baden-Baden is the Waldho- finely painted faces. Some are large for us. He knew exactly where to go tel Forellenhof and your inclusion of and intricate: a vase three-feet high and wanted to save us the trouble. the Allee Hotel Bären is also a plus. has a movable “necklace” of ceramic Now is that nice? Our tension level Bruce Woelfel mentions "boiled flowers. On the third floor are some plummeted and we loved him beef" in Graz. This is the renowned semi-abstract modern pieces. A 30- immediately. The Altstadt has a tafelspitz, practically the national dish, minute factory tour — included in the warm, lovely lounge with compli- and deserves to be called by its name. Continued on page 8...

Gemütlichkeit 7 November, 1994 Drive to Russia MEISSEN including the famous include flights to Switzer- “Dresden Blue.” land, dinner at Girardet Because it is almost Continued from page 7 impossible to rent a car in Getting to Meissen by and entry to the Olympic the western part of Europe admission price — demon- car is a slow process, espe- Museum. and drive it into the east, strates how the pieces are cially during the tourist • Gemütlichkeit subscrib- independent driving vaca- formed (using a secret season. One must cross ers are also reminded that tions that include eastern formula) and glazed. and recross the Elbe in they are eligible for fare countries such as Poland, heavy traffic on a crowded Porcelain from Meissen reductions on Swissair. the Czech Republic and two-lane road. The quick- The program, now in its Russia are difficult to ar- est way is to take the train. third year, has been extend- range. However, Overseas MEISSEN Nine trains a day take less ed again through March 31, Motorhomes Tours now Population: 48,000 than half an hour from the 1995. The fare reduction on offers a 33-day drive to the Altitude: 110 meters main Dresden station, run- Swissair sale fares is $50 east and into Scandinavia Approximate distances from: ning from 5:35 a.m. to 9:35 per ticket for all members Dresden 23 km 15 miles via motorhome. The drive p.m., and returning from Berlin 175 km 109 miles of the traveling party, $400 begins May 31 in Frankfurt Munich 486 km 301 miles 6:00 a.m. to 9:33 p.m. It is on business class fares and and ends July 31 back in also a pleasant trip on an Tourist Information $600 on first class fares. Frankfurt and includes old paddle boat from the Meissen-Information Booking must be made stops in Prague, Wroclaw, An der Frauenkirche 3 piers along the Elbe near directly with Swissair (800- Krakow, Warsaw, Kobryn Meissen D-01662 the Old Town. Phone: 03521/4470 221-4750. Ask the reserva- (Belarus), Minsk, Smolensk, Fax: 03521/454479 tionist to access “G-star, Moscow, Torzhok, Novgor- Location: 15 miles northwest of EUROPE QL2JLQ”). For more de- od, St. Petersburg, Helsinki, Dresden at the intersection of the tails you may phone the valleys formed by the rivers Elbe, Stockholm, Copenhagen Triebisch and Meisa. In addition to its TRAVEL Gemütlichkeit office at 800- and Goslar. porcelain fame, Meissen is the center of 521-6722. the world’s most northerly wine- Berndt Hess of Motor- growing area. BRIEFING • Readers in the Wash- home Tours tells Walking Tour, available through ington DC area should the town center and the castle hill, Swissair Updates Gemütlichkeit he expects a know that Swissair, Austri- adults 6 DM ($4), children (10-16) 3 • Fredy Girardet, caravan of some 15 of his DM ($2), phone 03521/4544 70, fax an Airlines and Delta Air- whose restaurant in Crissi- full-equipped vehicles 03521/4582 40. lines have jointly intro- er near Lausanne is regard- (hot/cold water, shower, National Porcelain Factory, duced service connecting Talstrasse 9, open Tuesday-Sunday ed by many as the finest in toilet, refrigerator, stove, 8:30 a.m.-4:30 p.m., entrance 5 DM Washington, Geneva and the world, and his top cook, bedding, crockery, etc.). ($3.25), phone 03521/4585 41, fax Vienna. Five times each 03521/4521 17. Demonstration Philippe Rochat, have been week the Austrian Airlines The package includes workshop, Tuesday-Sunday 8:30 a.m.- signed on by Swissair to 4:30 p.m., entrance plus guided tour 4 A310 Airbus service will roundtrip air to Frankfurt, enhance the airline’s busi- DM . originate and terminate in first and last night hotel, ness and first class in-flight Porcelain Painting Workshop, Vienna. Each of the carriers transfers, the motorhome, Kunsthandwerkiche Porzellanmalerei meals. GmbH Sitz Meissen, Meisastrasse 42, will maintain the rights to a ferries including first class open Monday-Friday 9 a.m.-4 p.m., First class passengers certain number of seats on cabin Helsinki to Stock- Saturday by appointment, entrance and guided tour 2 DM ($1.30), phone will be served a three the various legs of the jour- holm, guided sight-seeing 03521/4578 73. course menu that begins ney. including a Russian-En- Albrechtsburg, a large Gothic with Velouté Safrané de Tru- glish speaking guide to castle, towers over Meissen providing a ite du Lac En Gelée à Hotel Discounts accompany the caravan in magnificent view over the town. Open The Sofitel hotel chain daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., closed in L’Osciètre and ends with Russia, all sight-seeing January, entrance is 4 DM ($2.60). Génoise de Guanaja Aux Or- has announced a winter admission fees, camp- Guided tour 3 DM ($2). anges Confites. Business sale through February 26 at ground fees and 27 meals. Saxon Wine-Growers’ its 48 properties in several Cooperative, Meissen, Bennoweg 6, class passengers will enjoy In Moscow, the tour in- guided tours with wine-tasting: three a Girardet chocolate des- European countries, includ- cludes a visit to the Space samples 9 DM ($6), six samples 18 DM sert. Economy class pas- ing Germany, Austria and Museum, the Moscow Cir- ($12), Winzerplatte meal 7 DM ($4.50) Switzerland. Rates are as per person, phone (0351)7332 93. sengers will be served wine cus and an optional ride in and food from the Vaud low as $110 per night per a MIG fighter jet. Accom- room. At Vienna’s Sofitel is expensive, although region, the canton in which panying the caravan will be Belvedere, for example, the prices in the museum store Restaurant Girardet is experienced "wagonmas- rate is $130 for a double and an outlet store in the located. ters" plus two security of- room including buffet Dresden Hilton Hotel, are ficers and a mechanic. Passengers can also take breakfast, service charges less than what one would part in a drawing by leav- and tax — an excellent The cost per person for pay in the U.S. A tea pot ing their business card or price for a four-star hotel in the To Russia With Love tour sells for $200, place settings boarding card with their Vienna. To book, phone is $6,395, double occupan- are $300 and up. Many name and address. Prizes 800-763-4835. cy. Phone 800-468-3876. patterns are available

Gemütlichkeit 8 November, 1994