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’s & Voluntary Marine Nature Reserve

Text and photos by Lawson Wood St.Abbs and Eyemouth Voluntary Marine Nature Reserve is located in the southeast of Scotland and only a scant 15km (9 miles) from the English border, the coastal towns of St.Abbs and Eyemouth are home to the ’s first voluntary .

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St. Abbs Head, Scotland (above); Dead man’s fingers (left)

— Marine conservation has always been Since 1986, the marine reserve important around St. Abbs and Eyemouth has been able to employ a war- when a voluntary ban on the removal den who has liaised with divers, of shellfish was first imposed by divers back in the early 1970s with many div- school groups, conservation ing clubs supporting this move. The first organisations and local council real change came in 1978 when Lawson authorities. Publicity materials Wood declared a small area to the north have been published, the rock of Eyemouth the first voluntary marine pool rambles are particularly reserve in Scotland. Barefoots, as it was then known, is still a major well attended, and a new code part of the St. Abbs and Eyemouth of conduct has been produced Voluntary Marine Nature Reserve, for the benefit of all visitors to which was founded in 1984 and the area. officially opened by Professor David Bellamy in 1986. Located just 15km (9 miles) north of the English The Marine Reserve has 17 member part- border, the reserve now extends ners on the committee including local from the Hurkar Rocks at Eyemouth council authorities, diving clubs, fisher- to St. Abbs Head and includes 7km men and conservation groups. Whilst this (4.5 miles) of coastline and out to feature details the shore diving and near the 50 metre (165ft) depth contour. shore boat dives, many divers from all Lawson Wood was awarded the over the world are now visiting this region prestigious conservation award by of the south east of Scotland for some the Marine Conservation Society in absolutely amazing on 1982 for his efforts. The author gives many (virtually undived) shipwrecks from us a glimpse into the underwa- both World Wars including two U-boats. ter world, flora and fauna, which In depths ranging around 45-60m (150- divers will find in the nature reserve. 200ft) these are some of the best military Eyemouth Harbour (left); Dahlia anemone (above) PREVIOUS PAGE: Brittle starfish

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LEFT TO RIGHT: Wolf fish with crustacean; Juvenile herring in kelp; Close-up detail of dahlia anemone; Fragile brittlestar

beds with giant north of St. Abbs Head and south dahlia and plu- of Eyemouth on the offshore mose anemones, reefs of . The St. Abbs the rare arctic and Eyemouth Voluntary Marine Bolocera anem- Nature Reserve is now part of the one, burrowing North Northumberland and Ber- anemones and wickshire Coast Special Area of huge angler fish. Conservation and is part of the Octopus and largest marine conservation zones squid are com- in Europe. mon on night dives and the rare Eyemouth shore dives Yarrel’s blenny The shore diving at Eyemouth is infrastructure away to gravel and sand at isn’t rare here amongst the gul- concentrated around the head- available about the 20m zone (66ft). The leys, canyons and caves that cut land adjacent to Eyemouth Holi- such as good exposed cliff faces are renowned through the headlands. day Park. There are a handful of road and rail for the great diversity of marine Curiously, species such as the exceptional dives off the caravan links, accom- life and are festooned with ‘dead Devonshire cup coral (Caryo- park and although some of the modation of men’s’ fingers’ soft corals, brilliant- phillia smithii), Painted top shell access is a bit difficult at low , various types ly coloured anemones, hydroids, (Calliostoma zizyphinum) and the diving is exceptional with cliff and standards, tunicates, fish and crustaceans. It the long-clawed squat lobster walls covered in soft corals and shipwrecks in British waters. and have created an area of equipment sales and hire, boat is on these cliffs that Ballan wrasse (Munida rugosa) are more com- anemones. The rugged shoreline is home clear, clean water quite unrivalled hire, launching facilities, compres- eat out of your hand, and where monly found on the western coast to some of the greatest diversity in U.K. waters, where cold water sors, wrecks, good photography, wolf fish try to eat the rest of your of the British Isles, along with the Little Leeds Bay is reached by fol- of marine life to be found around species are found living alongside etc. The dives within the confines hand! burrowing anemone (Cerianthus lowing the footpath from the cara- the entire British coast. Tidal cur- more exotic warm water species. of the marine reserve range from The predominant feature is the lloydii) and Yarrel’s Blenny (Chi- van park and keeping to the right rents from both the warm Gulf There is an almost total lack of those easy, gently sloping shore kelp forest, which fringes much of rolophis ascannii) they make for along the edge of the cliff. This is Stream and the much colder Arc- ‘diver pollution’ except at one dives to challenging drift dives in the coast, grazed by sea urchins very interesting finds in the North an ideal sheltered bay for trainees tic Tidal Stream both terminate or two of the most popular sites, difficult tidal conditions. and home to spider crabs, nudi- Sea. Many divers are also having and the snorkelling is excellent along this stretch of coastline and then again, only during peak The sea bed is generally cov- branchs and two-spot blennies. superb in-water experiences with with a profusion of life amongst along the east coast of Scotland holiday time. This is due to the ered with large boulders falling Further offshore are brittle-star Grey seals which can be found the kelp covered boulders.

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LEFT TO RIGHT: Sun starfish at St. Abbs Head; Lion’s mane jellyfish; Plumrose anemone; Scorpionfish on sun starfish

Divers Hole is the large cleft towards the Conger end of Hairy Ness Point. The depth ranges (Cresta Run) is from 7m (24ft) to 18 metres (60ft) and is located to the best reached by swimming through the right from the break in the headland. The cliff wall rises entrance of vertically on both sides and the amount Weasel Loch of marine life to be found here is aston- where a mini-wall is covered in soft corals The President was travelling from Ham- pot shaped holes or ishing. At the end of the cliff on the right and numerous species of anemone. The burg to Methil in Fife when she ran cauldrons. As you hand side, the wall curves around and kelp forest reaches to only 8m (25ft) in aground during thick fog on the 29th continue out to sea you travel up a steeply inclined sand this area and the far wall is deeply under- of April 1928 on a rocky reef known along the reef, fol- slope into a shallow cave. cut with some very large holes where as Whup Ness located south of Agate low the wall on your conger eels and wolf fish can be found. Point to the south of Eyemouth. Origi- right, you will eventu- Weasel Loch is by far the most popular nally launched in 1907 and weighing ally come to the end of these shore dives with an average Eyemouth boat dive sites 1946 tons, she stood little chance as she of this reef, but con- depth of only 7m (24ft) reached by a set The three caves which bisect the Hawk- ploughed into the channel between the tinue seaward and of sturdy wooden steps leading down to ness headland to the south of Eyemouth rocks and ended up wedged with her pick up the next reef, the waters edge. Weasel Loch is a verti- are Horse Cave, Dove Cave and Scout stern facing the shore. The main boilers sit it is here that you will cal cleft cut into the rugged Cave and may be susceptible to strong upright in a sandy gully in 12m (40ft) and find an underwater coastline has walls lined with kelp and surge in the caves. Both Scout Cave and wreckage is scattered over a very wide archway that rivals the sandy floor is home to all manner of Dove Cave look as if they may connect range, some of the larger plates are in Cathedral Rock at molluscs and crustaceans. Octopus are underwater or underground at least, 20m (66ft) and there is wreckage to be St.Abbs. seen on most dives. In the spring, lump but they have been explored by many found in only 1m (3ft). suckers are quite common and dur- people over the years and do not. The The Hurkar Rocks ing the full moon squid come close to walls are covered in marine life, particu- Agate Point (Cauldrons) is found at the are opposite Eyem- shore to lay their large gelatinous eggs larly small seasquirts, hydroids, anemones tip of the headland to the north of the outh Bay and act as amongst the kelp fronds. This location and algae. The seabed is made up of President wreck. The Cauldrons are the a natural breakwater, with an average able to strong, possible surge on outside. is also excellent for snorkelling and for well worn rounded stones and gradually inshore part of a narrow gully which runs depth of 15m (50ft), there are actually Hurkar Rock is the largest and the sides introducing you to the pleasures of night makes way to a boulder bed which coin- directly into the grassy headland. Due to four large rocky outcrops which form part steeply sloped and fringed in kelp. If you diving. cides with the underside of the main part the geology, some of the rock has been of a massive reef which runs underwater follow Hurkar rock around to the north of the cliff. carved out by the sea and created huge all the way to St.Abbs. The is vari- and west, you will come to a narrow ver-

64 X-RAY MAG : 64 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel St Abbs

Dahlia anemone (left); School of mackerel (above); Ballan wrasse on North Sea shipwreck (right)

Buss Craig and the sponges and anemones and are This section is called the Ebb Carrs yons teaming with marine life Wuddy Rocks is the first reef of wreck of the Mau- superb for photography. and has two wrecks, the Vigilant and all topped with a fringe of rocks which juts out from the retana are located and the Alfred Earlandson. Div- kelp. The Alfred Earlandsen was a headland as you leave St. Abbs to the west of the Fold Buss is one of the higher ing all along this area is indeed coastal steamer from Denmark, harbour towards the lighthouse. group. The Maure- peaks which forms the large spectacular, but care should be 62m long (20ft), weighing 954 Three of the largest sections are tana was a wood ‘dyke’ which stretches from Eyem- taken due to boat traffic and the tonnes and carrying pit props as dissected by a narrow winding and steel steam outh to St. Abbs. With an aver- possibility of being swept into a cargo. During a thick coastal fog, gully and huge archway. Drop driven vessel age depth between 6 - 30m (20 stronger current than originally combined with rough seas, she down to the seabed and you which ran aground - 100ft), this can be a difficult off- anticipated. completely wrecked on 17 Octo- will find the opening to the shaft in thick fog in the shore site near the main shipping ber 1907. ‘Hard hat’ divers from ‘belled’ out, follow the smooth 1920’s. High and dry lane for boats entering Eyemouth St. Abbs boat dive sites St. Abbs were able to salvage the bedrock into shallower water, for some time, before harbour from the north. There is The Ebb Carrs are not only an engine from the ship, but the rest swim over the lip and you will find a storm suddenly always a current in this area and excellent reef dive, they are also was left to the elements and are yourself descending down a very arose and wrecked divers should have good boat home to two wrecks, the Vigilant now well scattered throughout narrow shaft, the sides of which tical walled canyon which twists the ship before she could be cover and diver recovery flags as and Alfred Earlandsen. A strong the rocky pinnacles at a depth of are covered in dead mens’ fin- its way through to the sheltered salvaged. All that remains of the the sea can be quite high current passes through the rocks between 12 - 15m (40 - 50ft). The gers. This route drops very quickly bay on the other side. Wolf fish ship are the huge boiler which lies and it may be difficult to see the and can create quite a distur- Vigilant is also testimony to the into the gloom and torches are (Anarhichas lupus) are always at right angles to the rock and boat under the worst conditions. bance on the surface, the rocks of the Ebb Carrs; just one necessary. found here, generally in mating various rusting plates, cogs and The reef, although low lying has should only be dived during slack week old, the newly built MFV hit pares, the female being brown wheels which have all ‘welded’ many mini-walls, under-hangs water. These rocky pinnacles rise the rocks during a storm; the sub- Nearby is Black Carr, which has in colour as opposed to the grey together with the rocky substrate. and crevices. The reef once sharply out of a gravel seabed merged rocks blanketed in thick been a firm favourite with divers coloured male. The rocks and gullies in this area more surfaces near St. Abbs and and form numerous interesting fog and sank within 30 seconds in for many years, as the depth are just covered in soft corals, breaks the surface at low tide. swimthroughs, gulleys and can- August 1977. drops off quite quickly over hard

65 X-RAY MAG : 64 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Anglerfish; Tub gurnard; Velvet swimming crab travel eating juvenile fish; Snake pipefish St Abbs flounders and swimming crabs are common. The sides of the walls are mostly covered in kelp and a few soft corals, sponges and anemo- nes, the bottom metre of the wall is scoured clean by the constant moving of the sand in the channel during prevailing storms. Further out into the current the shelf drops away in ‘fingers’ similar to a spur and groove reef. Known as the Anemone Gullies, on the tops and sides of the ridges, huge plumose anemones can be found in three colour varieties as well as thou- sands of brittle starfish. In the val-

travel as there is so much good stuff in between. Fast Castle was reputed to have had a fortune in Spanish gold hid- small and red in colour den in a cave beneath her cliffs. At the as well as a type of bry- entrance of the cave an underwater ozoan called Clathrina, shaft was discovered 6m down (20ft) and which is white. Even appeared to be the source of an under- the scorpionfish come water fresh water spring, but again yield- in shades or red and ed no sign of any treasure, just a fine silt white. and kelp debris which quickly reduced the visibility and prevented further explo- The Glanmire was a ration. This is still very much virgin terri- 72m (242ft) freighter tory. which struck the Black Carr Rocks on 25 July 1912 and eventu- ally sank in 30m (100ft) about 500m (1/3 mile) east of St. Abbs light- house, the bows facing the shore. Now com- ground and wolf fish are commonly pletely broken up, the 1,141 ton Glanmire found on most dives. is spread over a huge distance underwa- leys between, massive dahlia anemones inevitable winter storms which ter and the highest part of the flat gravel can be found as well as angler fish, dog- frequent the coast, parts of Tyes Tunnel is a cut through the head- and sand seabed is only 7m (24ft) high. fish and the angel shark. the wreckage can be seen at land just to the north of St. Abbs light- low tide jutting up amongst house. The entrance to the tunnel is Skelly Hole is the last sheltered bay sur- The Nyon is located 6km (4 miles) north of the tangle of boulders on the directly opposite a huge rocky stack rounded by huge rocky stacs before St. Abbs Head and was a 4950 ton Swiss shore. called Cleaver Rock, which is under- turning the corner to Pettico Wick Bay. Motor Vessel. The Nyon was enroute from neath the lighthouse some 30m above The main channel into the sheltered Leith to Dakar when she struck Meg Wat- Fast Castle is 8 km (5 miles) (100ft). The walls of the tunnel are com- inner bay is similar to Weasel Loch at son’s rock near Fast Castle on 17 Novem- north of St. Abbs Head and is pletely covered in Dendrodoa sea squirts, Eyemouth with a wide sandy base where ber 1958. Now utterly destroyed by the probably as far as dive boats Devonshire cup corals

66 X-RAY MAG : 64 : 2014 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Fragile brittlestar; Grey seal; Common travel lobster; Leopard-spotted goby St Abbs

long (200ft), now completely broken up, mostly in shallow water, her ribs and plates are covered in a lush growth of kelp. The boilers stand upright well away from the main part of the wreckage and are sur- rounded by a sandy seabed. The wreckage continues out into 20m of depth (66ft) where much of it is piled against a rocky ridge.

Cathedral Rock. By far the most popular shore dive within the marine reserve is Cathedral Rock. This huge underwater archway has a

surrounded by rocks on all sides. This is For a comprehensive list of accommoda- generally known as the training pool due tion in the area that you are visiting, con- to its sheltered location. The floor of the tact: Eyemouth Tourist Information Cen- training pool is alive with hundreds of her- tre, Auld Kirk, Market Place, Eyemouth, mit crabs, continually rummaging in the Berwickshire. TD14. ( Easter - October ) kelp debris which often collects after a Tel: 018907 50678 storm. The occasional ray can be found here, but most divers just swim onwards Wind and water conditions from here and out to Cathedral Rock. The prevailing weather pattern is from the north east which may cause north- Big Green Carr (Amphitheatre) is the erly swells, fortunately they rarely last any largest rock to the north east of the entry length of time. Water visibility alters drasti- point from St. Abbs harbour wall. Keep cally along the Scottish east coast and the wall to your right and this will bring is generated by the prevailing wind only. St. Abbs shore dives the wall are you into the amphitheatre, which has Pettico Wick is the sheltered bay fac- covered in high vertical sides cut by narrow horizon- ing north west the other side of St. Abbs dead mens’ tal ledges which are home to the Strident Head. Reached by car, there is a steep fingers. The whole of Pettico Wick will suit smaller arch over it known locally as the squat lobster (Galathea strigosa) and walk down to the water. The ‘Wick as any taste of diver, an excellent location Keyhole. The walls and the roof of the rare Devonshire cup corals. it is affectionately known still has an for snorkelling and training. arch are festooned in a dwarf species of ancient slip way which is robust and the plumose anemone as well as spong- Maw Carr or Seagull Rock opposite the makes an ideal stage before you set off The Odense sometimes referred to as the es, soft corals, mussels and hydroids. Bal- left side of St. Abbs car park, this side of diving. Looking north east you will see Peanut Boat due to the loss of its cargo lan wrasse are very tame here and make harbour and is actually two rocks split, the projection of a low rock called Wick of peanuts when she hit the reef and for some great photographic subjects. but joined in two. On the seaward side of Gaut. The wall of Wick Gaut has a strata sank on 15 May 1917 is under the cliff in this split, a cavern has been carved out which rises at 45 degrees forming narrow adjoining Broadhaven Bay west of Pet- Broad Craig is the first big rock facing you by the sea and here you can find tuni- ledges which have squat lobsters, sea tico Wick slipway. This coastal steamer at the east of St. Abbs harbour. Just to cates and dead mens’ fingers. urchins and gobies, the vertical parts of weighed 1756 tonnes and was over 60m the right of the entry point is a deep pool Two spot goby

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During heavy, prolonged rainfall CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Plaice; in the Borders, a large amount of Juvenile haddock on jellyfish; Bloch’s muddy water is swept into the sea topknot; St. Abbs Harbour in Scotland; and may linger for a few days. Common lobster; Yarrell’s blenny

Visibility and the other slipway is near the har- The average underwater vis- bour entrance and runs onto the ibility is around six metres (20ft) beach and is able to be used at but 15m (50ft) is the norm when any state of tide. St. Abbs has a offshore winds (from the west) slipway into the harbour, permis- are experienced. The mean sea sion must be sought and payment are 7.5ºC (46ºF) in is GB£10 and car parking for the Feb, 9ºC (48ºF) in May, 18ºC (65ºF) day is also £10.00 payable to the in August and 10.5ºC (51ºF) in St.Abbs Harbour Trust. November. How to get there Best time to dive By road, travel up the east coast Very rough seas are gener- along the A1 trunk road until you ally short lived, particularly from March to October when the pre- reach Scotland, from Leith. To calculate the tidal vailing wind shifts to a westerly then turn right or variation at Eyemouth: direction which settles the sedi- second right (if you GMT ment and brings flat calm seas ing all along the east coast of the very experienced in these waters miss the first turning) High Water Leith minus 20 minutes close to shore, even during the United Kingdom. and will suit dives to along the A1107 Low Water Leith minus 10 minutes strongest of winds. When this is the experience, combined with the to Eyemouth, just BST case, shore diving only is recom- Currents knowledge required to give you 1.5km (1mile) from High Water Leith add 40 minutes mended as small diving boats For boat divers, tidal variations the most scenic dive in the best the A1. Low Water Leith add 50 minutes  such as inflatables or ‘ribs’ may and current can be punishing to conditions. and St. Abbs are just well be blown off station when say the least particularly off St. five minutes’ drive Lawson Wood is a widely pub- with divers. From August through Abbs Head, the Ebb Carrs and Launching slipways beyond Eyemouth. lished underwater photographer to October the winds tend to be Hurkar Rocks. These currents only There are two slipways in Eyem- and author of many dive guides from the west, resulting in superb rarely affect shore diving. All of outh at the inside of the harbour Tidal variation and books. For more information, visibility and fantastic shore div- the skippers of the dive boats are and opposite a handy car park, Tide times are taken visit: www.lawsonwood.com

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