An Oasis in the Atlantic

AzoresText and photos by Nuno Sá

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It’s been almost 15 years since my first visit to the Azores. I was studying law then and was on my first diving trip, with all of eight dives written down in my brand new logbook. Six years later, I was living in the Azores. I had traveled and dived in many remote locations by then, Africa, Australia, Asia… but one place never left Friendly dusky grouper, Graciosa Island; Diver with curios common octopus, Faial Island; Blacktail my mind—those nine small islands that comber, São Jorge Island. PREVIOUS PAGE: Wild dolphins corral and hunt prey in a bait ball stood alone in the middle of the Atlantic. So, I hung my law degree diploma at my And it came to pass. After five years of diving islands without discovering all of the secrets parent’s house in Portugal and left for the in these nine islands as a professional nature the Azorean seas have to reveal. photographer, I have seen the world’s largest Although whale and dolphin watching Azores with a single goal in mind: to live animal—the majestic blue whale—and dived are the main tourist attractions of these in and discover a place with one of the with orcas, pods of sperm whales, dolphins, nine islands, more and more divers are dis- highest levels of biodiversity in the world, turtles, sharks, devil rays, whale sharks and covering this group of islands by exploring and maybe even become an underwa- many other fascinating creaturs. But I am a myriad of dive sites where the visibility is ter photographer. sure I can spend the rest of my life on these startling and the presence of large pelagic

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fish unique. Located in the middle of the Atlantic organisms feed on the algae, they will soon serve phins, loggerhead turtles, devil rays, whale sharks Ocean, almost half way between the United States as nourishment to giant travelers crossing the and finally, large schools of fish. and Europe, the Azores are a small oasis in the mid- ocean. Blue whales, fin whales, Bryde´s whales, sei dle of a blue desert for many species that annu- whales and minke whales arrive, stopping in these Nine gems—one by one ally venture on Atlantic migrations. Located in the nutrient rich waters, gathering strength to complete The archipelago of the Azores is constituted of nine frontier of cold and nutrient rich currents coming their migration north to the cold Arctic waters. islands and spreads through 500km (311 miles). in from the north and a ramification of the warm Undoubtedly, these large baleen whales will meet These nine islands are the most isolated in the North waters of the Gulf Stream coming in from the south, pods of sperm whales—the Azores’ resident giant Atlantic, situated 1,300km (808 miles) from the the effect of the only landmass between of the seas, which hunts giant squid in the deep southwestern coast of mainland Portugal. Diving is these two continents creates an explosion of life waters surrounding the archipelago. possible on all of the islands of the archipelago and every year. When the first days of summer arrive, water gets range from shore dives to cave dives and wreck the beginning of this cycle starts with the spring clearer by the day as the food chain develops, the dives as well as diving in distant underwater moun- “bloom” as water starts to get warmer and filled microscopic plankton gives way to large bait balls, tains where dozens of manta rays and big schools with microscopic algae, giving it a greenish hue. and a multitude of predators follow. As the warm of fish are common sights. LEFT TO RIGHT: Free diver surrounded by Almaco jacks, With it come the biggest and smallest of the summer breezes arrive so do the more tropical Divided in three groups (Eastern, Central and Santa Maria Island, Ambrósio; Pod of Sperm whales. Photo ocean’s beings. As a frenzy of small zooplankton species, such as large pods of Atlantic spotted dol- Western), the islands can be very close to each obtained under a special permit of Azores environment authorities; Friendly Loggerhead turtle, Santa Maria Island

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other in a group (just four miles from connections to various chambers. what make the Azores a unique div- Pico to Faial in the central group), the typical sea life includes large ing destination. but up to over a hundred miles dusky groupers, curious trigger fishes, away from the next group. Each of several species of little nudibranchs, Western Group these islands is so different from the morays and octopi in amongst the Of the nine islands of the Azores, other that it is hard to describe them rocks. Colorful red hogfish are nor- Flores and Corvo are the most as a whole. What they do have mally more common at a greater distant and secluded, also being in common is peace and quiet, depth—20 meters or more—where the westernmost point of Europe. breathtaking volcanic landscapes the black coral (Antipathella wol- Only ten miles separate these two and cows everywhere—roads lastoni) branches are also quite islands, however, they are 130 miles included! common. Many small and colorful away from the nearest island group. underwater, these islands are as species can be sighted, such as With less than 4,000 inhabitants— different as on the surface, with peacock wrasse, parrotfish, Azores Flores Island and Corvo Island with blue sharks on one island and whale chromis (Chromis limbata) and 400—the so-called “Western Group” sharks on another, or a World War Mediterranean rainbow wrasse. still offers the closest we can get to II shipwreck on one island and Large schools of pelagic fish such nature in its purest state, with waters 15th and 16th century wrecks on as guelly jack, almaco jack, yellow- that are pristine, unpolluted and another. Coastal dives are, however mouth barracuda, Atlantic bonito almost untouched by humankind. rather similar throughout the archi- or—for the lucky few—a majestic but visiting these two islands is not pelago. Being islands of volcanic ori- devil ray, a turtle or an ocean sunfish just a unique experience underwa- gin, underwater rock formations can are occasionally sighted on coastal ter, as these islands have breath- be very impressive, with large arches dives, but the offshore underwater taking landscapes and are off the originated by ancient lava flows seamounts are definitely the place beaten track of the more touristic and deep caves with numerous to visit for the big pelagics and are islands. Flores, in Flores Island, liter- CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Group of devil rays at offshore underwater seamount; Cows on the road, peace and quiet. View of Faial Island from Pico, Central group; View of Corvo Island from Flores, Western group 25 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Azores

ally means flowers in Portuguese, and the meadows filled with flowers, as the outer fish, an abundance of red hogfish, blacktail island can best be described as “Hawaii in ridge of the crater falls steeply into the blue combers, various types of morays and so the Atlantic”. Beautiful waterfalls cut through sea. UNESCO has recently recognized the many other typical species of the Azores. On the green landscape and lagoons, and there uniqueness of this natural heritage nominat- the boat crossing from Flores to Corvo many are flowers everywhere. Corvo, on the other ing it a Biosphere Reserve. species of whales, dolphins, sea turtles and hand, is only one-eighth the size of Flores with the only village on the island is the small sea birds are usually sighted. a total area of 17 sq km, thus being the small- village of Vila do Corvo, a picturesque town corvo’s highlight is undoubtedly the dive est in the archipelago. with white houses and cobblestone streets. with the big dusky groupers at the Caneiro Although small, Corvo Island offers its visi- Due to its geographical isolation from dos Meros dive site, located just 300m from tors, without a doubt, one of the world’s most islands with more developed indus- the harbor. This is a natural reserve (amazingly unique and beautiful landscapes. The giant tries, the islands of Flores and Corvo still have it was voluntarily created by the island’s fish- crater of the extinct volcano that occupies a diverse and abundant marine life. Large ermen) where you can dive with up to eight almost the totality of the island is composed schools of yellowmouth barracuda can be or ten large and friendly dusky groupers. CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Corvo Island’s crater—a Unesco natural heritage; of several small lagoons surrounded by green found here as well as almaco jack and jack Flores, on the other hand, also has many Sperm whale fluke; Atlantic spotted dolphins; The “Triangle Islands”, São Jorge Island with Pico and Faial in the horizon 26 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Azores

LEFT TO RIGHT: Diver explores Shrimp Cave, Faial Island; Rock goby (Gobius paganellus); Diver and red scorpion fish (Scorpaena scrofa)

diving spots on its extensive coast, Central Group nection by boat can be more historic buildings are reminis- one of the most famous ones is Five islands stand relatively close difficult. Graciosa has excellent cent of its historic importance Gruta do Galo—a dive in a mag- by in the central group of the coastal dives, cave dives and in the 15th and 16th centuries nificent cave that ends under a Azores. Amongst them Pico and a very good wreck dive—the as the main shelter harbor for artifacts and wrecks that evoke 19th century steamship that sunk freshwater waterfall in the sea. Faial are the most visited by div- Terceirense shipwreck—located ships crossing the Atlantic, with ancient times. just 50m from the coast when Most divers who visit the Azores ers and are only four miles apart. just a few hundred meters from many stories of pirate ships and one of the most interesting crossing from Portugal to Brazil, “Western Group” take advantage Together with São Jorge Island, the coast. Terceira Island also naval battles to be told. The his- dives is the “anchor graveyard” marks its presence in the bay—its of the proximity of the two islands they form the islands of the has excellent coastal dives but is toric importance of this city is pre- where you can dive amongst shadow visible from the surface to visit and dive on both of them. “Triangle” with daily boat con- mostly known for its archeological sent above and under the water, over 40 large anchors, which on days of calm sea. After all, it is just a one-and-a-half- nections between them. dives. with several archeological diving range from the 16th to the 20th Faial Island is well known as hour boat ride between the two the islands of Terceira and Terceira’s capital, Angra do sites. Although time has taken its century, left by ships in distress, one of the world’s most famous islands. Graciosa are relatively isolated Heroísmo, is a UNESCO world heri- toll over most of the fragile woo- some of them over three meters marinas, where sailors crossing from the rest of the group, so con- tage site. Monuments and colorful den ships, there are still many long. The lidador shipwreck, a the Atlantic usually stop for a few

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Terceira Island’s Anchor Graveyard has over 40 anchors, some over 3m long, from the 16th-20th centuries left by ships in distress

days, giving the small town of Horta a from the sea floor from over 500m these two islands are also one of the mystical look, with colorful sails filling its deep up to around 35 meters. few places in the world where you can bay. Just across the strait channel, Pico offshore dives in high seas are com- dive with one of the seas most beauti- Island seems to still be erupting from pletely unpredictable, but big groups ful predators—the blue shark. Diving the sea floor into a volcanic mountain of curios devil rays and big schools with blue sharks is done “in the blue”, over 2,000m high. of up to thousands of large pelagic either snorkelling or , and both of these islands are the main fish, such as yellowmouth barracudas, is definitely an unforgettable experi- access points to two of the Azores’ jacks, and especially Atlantic boni- ence. Just minutes after a container most famous diving experiences: the tos, are among the main attractions. with bait hits the pristine water, subtle Princesa Alice offshore seamount and Several species of sharks, ocean sunfish shadows can be seen shooting from diving with blue sharks in high seas. or manta rays can also be sighted. Of hundreds of meters deep, straight to Diving in offshore seamounts are course, being the Azores home to over the surface. Cautious and elusive at amongst the best dives these islands 20 different species of whales and dol- first, as confidence is gained, these have to offer, and the Princesa Alice phins, the trip to Princes Alice always predators of the deep are extremely dive site is definitely second to none. includes some ocean travellers such curious, approaching and inspecting Located about 45 miles off Faial island dolphins, sperm whales or loggerhead every diver, sometimes even slightly (a three-hour trip) this seamount erupts turtles. brushing divers, receiving a tactile test Terceira Island lidador shipwreck—a 19th century steamship 28 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Curios grey triggerfish (Balistes capriscus), Pico Island (left); Blue Shark (Prionace glauca], Pico Azores travel and Faial Islands (below)

are about 50 miles from each other and over 70 miles from the cen- tral group. The largest island—São Miguel—is the capital of the Azores, and is known for its natural beauties, with amazing landscapes marked by green mountains and blue lagoons. It is, however, also the most developed island. Coastal dives can be less thrill- ing due to a larger . However, the presence of a World War II shipwreck just five minutes from the marina makes this the most visited diving spot in the Azores. built in the United States in 1943, the Liberty Ship took part in the world’s

from its sensitive lateral line. On a normal dive you can have between three to five blue sharks around you. If you are lucky, you can also see the open ocean’s top predator and fast- est fish—the mako shark. pico is also the birthplace of what has become the tourist symbol of the Azores—whale watching. The Azores is one of the world’s top whale watch- ing destinations, with the chance to spot 23 different species, and with large pods of sperm whales all year long. Along the mountainous coast of Pico and Faial islands several small looking points are daily occupied by “Vigias” (look outs), armed with binoc- ulars and a radio tracking the horizon for whales and dolphins, and giving directions to the fast zodiacs. on a typical summer day it is nor- mal to sight up to four or five different species of whales and dolphins as well as several species of sea birds, turtles and who knows what else. Swimming with dolphins in high seas is an unfor- dive—Ponta dos Rosais. This is an largest military operation—operation gettable experience. Swimming with excellent dive with many schools of Overlord off the coast of Normandy. whales, however, is not allowed. pelagic fish, however the typical sea- Originally called Edwin L Drake, it são Jorge Island—the third island mount groups of devil rays are rarely would find its resting place 21 years of the “Triangle”—is less known for its seen here. later off the coast of São Miguel with diving than for its breathtaking land- the name, Dori. Today, this 130-meter- scape and offers excellent coastal Eastern Group long wreck is visited by hundreds of dives as well as a well-known offshore The two Islands of the eastern group divers every year. Located on a sandy Peacock wrasse, Formigas Islets (offshore dive 25 miles from Santa Maria Island) 29 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Azores

Vineyards descend into the sea on Santa Maria Island (left); Portugal’s high- est mountain, Pico Island (above)

bottom just 16m deep, this is probably the occasional whale shark. Around 25 miles south from Santa the best and easiest accessible wreck up to three years ago, whale sharks Maria (or about 45 miles north of São dive in the Azores, with many parts of were a very rare sight and mostly Miguel) are two of the Azores most the ship still intact and the typical spe- described by tuna after known offshore dives—Formigas and cies of the Azores sea bottom present encounters in high seas. However, since Dollabarat. Formigas has a series of in great numbers. 2008, the biggest fish of seas has cho- small rocky islets in the middle of the santa Maria is probably the Azores sen the island of Santa Maria to spend ocean, where a small, uninhabited “best kept secret”—a small island with the summer. Nonetheless, spotting this lighthouse was constructed to pre- varp / wikipedia / public domain white sandy beaches and completely colossus of the seas is not for the faint vent ships from colliding (unfortunately off the beaten track, with whale sharks of heart, as they usually appear about there where many before it was built). Location of the Azores and groups of dozens of devil rays just six miles from the coast, so it typically Dollabarat is an underwater seamount archipelago on glo- 30 minutes from the harbor! Although involves taking a whole day specifically just three miles from Formigas, so mak- bal map (left); Map big groups of devil rays are typically to search for them and being prepared ing the trip usually involves diving both of island groups in the seen on offshore seamounts, Santa for many hours out at sea. But when sights. What both dives have in com- Azores archipelago (above) Maria is the only island of the Azores you do get lucky, the experience is mon is amazing visibility (up to 40m where you can see dozens of these priceless: pristine blue waters several and more) and a chance to see oce- majestic fish slowly gliding around div- hundred meters deep, shades of sun- anic pelagic fish such as big schools ers, on a daily basis and just three miles light descending beneath you, and a of wahoos, yellowmouth barracudas, from the coast. This happens in a place massive whale shark followed by hun- jacks, and Atlantic bonitos, as well as called Ambrósio, and you can literally dreds or thousands of tunas hitching a curious devil rays, hammerhead sharks see over 50 devil rays on a single dive, ride through the Atlantic—simply amaz- and the occasional manta ray or as well as large schools of pelagics and ing. whale shark.

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Free diver surrounded by devil rays at the amazing dive site, Ambrósio, off Santa Maria Island (above); Black coral, Terceira Island (left)

of peace and quiet. With reasonable small and hugely influenced by the mass connections. However, moving between coastal dives and the chance to have of water around them. any other islands can sometimes be very some unique experiences in offshore time consuming and well worth the flight. dives, the Azores has dives for every taste Getting there and around: There are air- However, if you don’t mind taking a day and level of experience. However, think- ports and daily connections between all off for the trip, it can be very nice (and ing you can visit all of the Azores’ “high- the islands, as well as regular boat con- cheaper) to take a trip along the islands. lights” in just one trip is simply an illusion. nections during the summer. TAP and other than that, just relax and get into The distance between islands makes SATA have direct flights to the Azores the Azores’ easygoing ambiance. After some of the more isolated ones a desti- from Lisbon and several other European your first visit, I’m sure you will feel you nation of their own. However, it is possible capitals as well as Boston, Oakland, have discovered a small paradise in the to dive two or three islands in a one to Montreal and Toronto. Atlantic. two week trip and still have time for some there are two official boat opera- whale watching and sightseeing. tors in the Azores as well as plenty of Nuno Sá is a Portuguese underwater between dozens of devil rays at enough to live these experiences like to When to go: July to September are the private taxi services. Transmaçor (www. photographer and author who resides Ambrósio, going out for the whale sharks, keep this island a secret. months with the warmest water, best transmacor.pt) only operates in the cen- in the Azores. A regular conttibutor for taking a trip to Formigas and Dollabarat weather, best visibility and best chances tral group, while Atlanticoline (www. several magazines, including National (including a few species of whales, dol- Visiting the Azores to sight pelagic species. Water can get atlanticoline.pt) connects all the Islands. Geographic, Sá is co-author of The phins and sea turtles that will probably These nine islands definitely offer some as cold as 16-17Cº in the winter, and an Boat connections work very well in the Azores Diving Guide—Portugal’s first pub- be seen on the way there), and a few world-class dives and a unique experi- easy 25Cº in the summer. Air Western Group (Flores and Corvo) and lished diving guide. For more information, sunsets at Praia Formosa beach, it is no ence of diving in a less touristic destina- is not surprisingly pretty much the same also between the Triangle Islands (Faial, visit: www.photonunosa.com ■ surprise that the divers that are lucky tion with amazing landscapes and a lot as the water, since these islands are very Pico and São Jorge) with several daily

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Grenada— Spicy Diving on the Spice Isle

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Grenada’s countryside (above). PREVIOUS PAGE: Seated atop the Shakem wreck lays an old crane adorned with red coral fans

The island of Grenada is The King Elvis taxi service took us the looking the bay, getting a short brief- affectionately known as the short drive to True Blue Bay Resort, ing on our upcoming dives. The more a family-owned tropical haven they described our schedule, the Spice Isle for its exotic spices perched above a small, lush inlet on more excited Kate and I got. I heard of nutmeg, clove and cinna- the Atlantic side of the island. This a motor turn over and Peter smiled, mon. Indeed, as we stepped would be our home for the next few “Ok, go get wet!” off the plane, its warm, fra- days while we explored the island, reefs and, of course, the wrecks of grant breezes welcomed us. Grenada. Just a few hours earlier we binca, the hotel’s concierge, had were shivering in the drizzle everything prepared and our rooms and cold, wrapped in sever- were gorgeous. Set just above the resort’s white sand pool, our spa- al layers of clothing dream- cious suite came replete with a full ing of this exact moment. kitchen, private balcony, large flat Kate, my cousin and photog- screen and fresh flowers. We made ourselves comfortable and headed rapher on this trip, laughed, down through the palms and mani- “Oh my gosh, I think I’ll tear cured lawns to the dive shop. up my return ticket and vio- our hosts, Peter and Gerlinde late my visa. I’m not leav- Seupel—owners of Grenada—greeted us as their crew ing!” took our gear and readied the boat. We talked briefly on the deck over- Seemingly glowing in the blue waters, the azure vase sponge (above) is one of the most brilliant in the reefs of Grenada; Freshly harvested nutmeg with red outer venous portion, often used in pharmaceuticals (left) 36 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Owner and operator of Aquanauts Grenada, Peter Seupel, shines his light on the side of the largest Grenada travel wreck in the Caribbean, the Bianca C

everything was all right. his briefing on the boat a few minutes before gave me an idea of what to expect once we reached the largest shipwreck in the Caribbean, but when I first saw her misty outline, growing more definite and vast with each meter we dropped, I skipped a few breaths— breaking PADI’s golden rule. Just below us Kate turned on her back and spreads her arms as wide as they would go. She was smiling behind her regulator, and I knew what she was thinking Italian Titanic —This thing is HUGE! Our , Salsa, bobbed up this year marks the 50th anniver- and down in the turquoise swells sary of the sinking of the Bianca-C, just off the white sands of Pink an Italian cruise liner that caught Gin Beach at the southern tip of fire from an engine room explosion Grenada. I was the last of the group while she rested in the harbor of to take a giant stride off the stern Grenada’s capital city, St. George. and begin my descent into the The ship burned for nearly three empty blue below. days but, fortunately, due to the It was the first dive of our trip and heroic efforts of her crew, numerous as I floated down, fingers looped local fisherman and selfless towns- around the reference line already folk, only two people perished and set by the dive team, I checked over 670 passengers were saved. my gauges and computer knowing hearing the distress calls, a British that at 20 meters (60 ft) the mythi- warship, Londonderry, arrived to cal Bianca-C would start to appear offer assistance. They were able to from the depths. sever the anchor chain and secure the water was 80°F (27°C)—both a tow line, removing her from ship- exhilarating and soothing at once— ping lanes and local boat traffic and a welcome change from the with the intent of beaching her in frigid of Puget Sound a safer location. Damage to the where I do most of my diving back cruise liner’s rudder made the tow home in the Pacific Northwest. difficult, and after a squall arose, paul Ward, instructor with the job became impossible. The Aquanauts Grenada, stayed close, line was severed, and the Bianca-C flashing me the “OK?” sign, making sank, coming to rest on her keel at sure I was equalizing properly and a depth of 55 meters (165 ft). Looming huge in the blue waters, the Bianca C (above) dwarfs divers Peter Seupel and Kelly LaClaire with her massive 200-meter long body; Diver explores the bow of the Bianca (left) 37 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Grenada

Seupel (left) swims by a few smaller masts on the stern of the Bianca C; Master of disguise, a scorpionfish (above) lies motionless among some coral on a just beyond the Bianca C

line and a mild gauge reading 44m (132 ft) and realized swept us that I was so enthralled with my surround- gently towards ings, I’d completely forgotten the depth the bow. warnings he’d given us topside. Large black the visibility is deceptively good here—33 tree corals root- meters (100 ft) plus—so it’s imperative you ed along the hull keep a close eye on your computer. If swayed back you’re not careful, you’ll find yourself in a and forth amidst deco situation before you know it. multi-colored I finned slowly up a few meters, drifting whip corals, and past giant coral encrusted davits—cargo a group of curi- and life boat hoists—that curved like ous but cautious metallic alien claws over the ship’s side jacks came to and above the twisted and crumbling mid- investigate our section. The bow started to take shape bubbles. below a school of fish so thick they looked even though like an underwater cloud swarming the I am an foremast. For years the towering flagstaff advanced card remained vertical and reached proudly holder (recom- towards the surface, but just recently, it fell mended for and now sits at a 30 degree angle toward We slowed our descent as the famous this site) this was my first wreck dive past the starboard rails. swimming pool on the deck of the ship 33 meters (100 ft), and I admit I was a bit I quickly scanned the foredeck for the came into view, and we leveled off just overwhelmed by the sheer size and scope nurse and reef sharks that like to congre- above the rear quarter. I looked around of the twisted and listing goliath. My inex- gate here, but I didn’t see any. Instead, a the impressive ship for a few seconds to perience became all too obvious when, giant barracuda nearly two meters long get my bearings. after only a few seconds of wide-eyed stared me down, brandishing his fangs. This Kate was right, the Bianca was massive— gawking, I heard Paul clinking a metal was his territory, and he wasn’t shy about roughly 200 meters (600 ft) long—and I on his tank to get my atten- letting me know it. realized one visit wasn’t going to let us tion. He motioned for me to ascend a bit. paul tapped his tank and then his com- explore the wreck fully. I let go of the dive I was shocked when I looked at my depth puter, indicating our bottom time for this So large a wreck is she, exploring Bianca C takes a wide gaze. Nurse shark, barracuda, and spotted eagle rays can often be seen cruising by or finding shelter in her deep hull 38 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Grenada

The Shakem, originally a cargo vessel, now lies in 25 meters of water just off the Grenada coast. Her hull and frame teem with life as sergeant majors dart about the coral encrusted railings (above and left); A sharp zigzag in the walkway on the edge of the Shakem wreck (left) exists as evi- dence of the hard land- ing she experienced upon settling to the sea floor

depth was reaching its limit. We aren’t rusty and the currents mild. playful sergeant majors, striped were diving air, so we only had a our first visit began with a rapid and shifty, joined us as we glided few minutes with the “Titanic of the descent down to 20 meters (60 over the large open hull, still fully Caribbean”. As we slowly ascend- ft) to the uppermost deck. She’s loaded with enormous pallets of ed along a nearby reef, I looked a large ship—60 meters (180 ft) stacked concrete bags. This partic- back, and though it had only of coral encrusted metal sitting ular sight is one of the things that been a few moments, I already perfectly straight on her keel. We made this wreck so unique. wanted to spend more time with descended a bit around the stern, In 2001, a skeleton crew of four the Bianca-C. scaring a few jacks and two large were bringing a load of concrete mackerel that bolted at the sound and baby diapers (yes, I said dia- Shakem of our bubbles. pers—you can still see a few if you While not as imposing and omi- White ribbons of snowy telesto know where to look) to Grenada nous as Bianca, the cargo vessel, (soft coral) clung to the metal when the cargo, improperly load- Shakem, is a fantastic wreck for rails lining the bridge. We swam ed, shifted from the large swells most any level of certification and through the open promenade near St. George. The ship began should not be missed when diving wrapping around the first two listing badly. She continued tak- the Spice Isle—provided your skills levels of the freighter. A school of ing on water, and a final wave A large puffer fish on a reef near the Shakem 39 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Grenada

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Sitting perfectly on its keel, divers can explore the prop of the Shakem wreck that sits still amidst wire and fan coral; The top of Shakem’s mast, covered in telesto, frames divers rising up the ascent line after exploring the wreck; Sergeant majors fill the waters surrounding Shakem with movement as the bright coral offset the brilliant white and pink of the telesto, which cling to its frame

pitched her to the port side. the current. angelfish joined us, but after a The Shakem sank just off shore I frightened a large silver fish moment seemed bored and down to the coral beds 33 away from its nest on the bow disappeared into the labyrinth meters (100 ft) below. and finally came to understand of fans and sponges below. sponges and enormous black why the little striped school Again our computers started sea fans soon took root and seemed so eager. Apparently, to squawk and I momentarily now dominate the outer hull they’ve developed a unique had an urge to ignore it. Twenty giving refuge to the ubiquitous behavior at this site—using peo- minutes just wasn’t enough, squirrel, trumpet and parrot fish ple to hunt for food. As soon and I wanted to stay a while hiding in its nooks and crannies. as a diver frightens away local longer. Kate, a PADI instruc- Many divers report octopus fish guarding their nests, the ser- tor, sensed my reluctance and and squid sightings here, but if geant majors swoop in, frantic raised her thumb towards the they were around, they were and frenzied, eating every last surface—more of a command staying well hidden. egg they can get to before than a suggestion. I shrugged in Kate’s camera strobes illu- the larger fish returns, and then acquiescence and reluctantly minated the enormous crane hurriedly catch up to drifted upward. running the length of the cargo they have chosen, waiting for the sergeant majors stayed hold and the corals momentari- another opportunity. with us for several meters as we ly lit up in rich, vivid color. The they followed us over the rose toward the surface, dart- sergeant majors moved in clos- starboard side as we swam ing and slashing through our er, swimming more frenetically back to take a look at the bubbles and then, realizing we than ever as we drifted toward prop, relatively unharmed were no longer of any use to the bow, still fitted with a good and surrounded by red and them, started down and faded size hoist, its ropes twisting with green wire corals. A large grey into the blue.

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Divers (left) rise on ascent line behind Shakem’s top deck railing covered in telesto; The concrete bags (top center) that led to the sinking of Shakem can still be seen from the numerous swim-throughs the wreck offers; Diver (right) explores the port side of the captain’s tower; Tanks and barracks (above)

Nitrox certified,” he said. “Diving on air deeper far longer without the risks of We reached the small wreck at right school of gray angelfish swam in lazy After the first two wrecks, sunning our- is extremely limiting when visiting the nitrogen toxicity. around 40 meters (120 ft), and I checked circles between the twin hulls. A swarm selves on the bow of the Salsa as wrecks in Grenada. With nitrox, you twenty minutes later we had the man- my computer. The bottom time read of blue chromis raced back and forth we cruised back to True Blue Bay, I can stay down longer and take all the uals in our hands, and the next morning, over 50 minutes, and I thought it was along the portside hull moving like a regi- expressed to Paul my disappointment time you want. Plus, our nitrox mixes are instead of air tanks attached to our gear, malfunctioning. Then I remembered the mented flock of birds. at the short length of time that we were included free in your dive packages, so two green and yellow banded cylinders tank on my back was filled with enriched We circled the small wreck for more able to explore each ship; I wanted more you have no excuse.” stood ready for testing. air, effectively giving me more time to than ten minutes before moving on and, time to take in the scope and grandeur If you’re unfamiliar with nitrox, also paul went over the procedures and remain safely at this depth than my thanks to the nitrox, I didn’t leave feeling of them. In short, I was getting addicted called enriched air, it is a mixed diving precautions before we headed out that tank would last. I got busy exploring the cheated or hurried. We let the current to the thrill of seeing these coral covered gas that has a larger percentage of oxy- morning. We were diving a downed cat- wreck, confident I’d have all the time I sweep us up and over a nearby strip of iron giants, and I wanted to squeeze gen, making the chances of nitrogen amaran called, Rhum Runner, followed wanted. reef where we found another spotted every ounce of bottom time I could out narcosis fall markedly. Many divers say by a reef drift to look for turtles, sharks A spotted eel was making his home eel, this one over a meter in length (3 ft), each dive. they think clearer at depths when div- and smaller critters hidden in the coral among the red and purple corals taking protecting his turf by hissing at us. Kate “Then we need to get you guys ing with nitrox, and it allows one to stay beds. hold along the ship’s frame and a small pointed out two French angelfish, my

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CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Front rail of Shakem wreck covered with coral growth; Pair of four-eye butterfly fish; Curious and friendly spotted trunkfish swims among brightly pat- terned coral; Flamingo tongue snail; A long and cleverly disguised lizard fish disguises itself by lying incredibly still among the sand; Feather duster worms filter food from the sea

favorites, swimming close by. We followed them for a bit, mesmerized by their gleam- ing yellow spots and graceful profiles. nearby, a set of spiny lobsters were trying sleeping under a shelf of jagged coral. We taken the specialty enriched air class long to hide beneath an outcropping of corals had been under for nearly 60 minutes and ago and saved myself the heartache I had while a sour-looking scorpion fish eyed us my computer indicated I still had 40 minutes on my previous dive at Bianca. I knew I was suspiciously. of remaining bottom time. I took another going to get another shot at her before we A metallic tink-tink-tink sounded, and we look at the shark, his beady white eyes left, but at that moment I vowed I would swam over to Paul and the rest of our group almost glowing, and began my ascent. write this recommendation for you, the who were getting a look at a nurse shark As we surfaced, I wondered why I hadn’t reader: do yourself a favor—if you book

42 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Mandoo, the most sought-after tour guide in all of Grenada, feeds a bite of banana to a Mono mon- travel key perched on his shoulder Grenada a myriad of book a tour or adventures for nature walk, visit anyone visit- www.grenada- ing. tours.com or just one of our type the name favorite activi- Mandoo into a ties was a full Google search, island tour and he’ll pop with Mandoo, right up. a local guide known as Fish Friday “The Guru – Lobster, of Grenada.” There isn’t anything Breadfruit and about his homeland he doesn’t Carib know, and he is the perennial win- A few kilome- ner of Grenada’s “Tour Guide of ters north of St. the Year” award. Plan on taking a George lies the whole day, as Mandoo takes you in his clean and comfortable—as well of Gouyave as air conditioned!— van through (pronounced, the back streets, hillsides and for- gwauv) where gotten neighborhoods of the Spice every Friday Island. night a local You’ll tour a rum distillery, walk food festival the cocoa and fruit trees of an known as Fish authentic working nutmeg planta- Friday takes tion as well as eat at a beachside place. Here you café, feed a monkey or two and will find two nar- learn the impressive and enthralling row streets lined a trip to Grenada, get a hold of history of Grenada’s rich and turbu- with local vendors frying, boiling, Aquanauts and ask to take their lent past. The tour is slow and easy, stewing and Bar-B-Queing all kinds nitrox certification straight away. just like Mandoo, whose motto is: of and native dishes. Kate You won’t regret it. “We’re on Island time here. If you’re and I splurged and each ordered a walking too fast my friends, you’re lobster tail brushed with lemon gar- Topside treats breaking the law!” lic butter with a side of fried bread- When visiting the Caribbean islands, Mandoo also gives personal tours fruit and hot sauce. you can’t just dive all day and not if you would like a more private explore the islands themselves. Well, experience and is available for okay, I suppose you could, but in taxi service. He also offers hik- Grenada that would be silly. There is ing and trekking tours through far too much beauty and history to the rain forests where water- be found. We recommend the fol- falls abound, and the wildlife is lowing excursions when you’re not never dangerous. As Mandoo under the water. puts it, “The only thing risky in Grenada is the rum punch!” Mandoo can do! After taking his tour, I honestly The island of Grenada is lush and can’t imagine trying to use any- fertile, offering a rich history and one else for these services. To

THIS PAGE: Scenes from Fish Friday in Gouyave, including a delicious lobster and veggie dish (center); Grenada’s famous rum (right); Festive drums (left); View of St. Georges (top center); Coconut seller in town (far right) 43 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Grenada

every food tent had cold Carib CLOCKWISE FROM FAR on hand—Grenada’s local brew— LEFT: Peter Seupel, owner and observing Benjamin Franklin’s of Aquanauts Grenada, sage pronouncement, “Beer is proof stands on his boat, Salsa, that God exists and wants us to be overlooking divers enjoying a pleasant surface interval happy.” We both drank several. while a shallow A few vendors were selling Lambie reef; A picturesque water- (conch meat) while all had various fall streams into a placid fried fish on the menu. Two or three pool in a mountain village stalls offered spices, jewelry and gifts in Grenada; Participants for tourists. We stopped at one to try in Grenada’s Hash group the homemade nutmeg ice cream. emerge from the wild and on the night we attended, a thick foliage that cov- local drumming group performed ers the hills of Grenada. on benches along the road wearing Following a path marked only by piles of shredded Santa hats. It’s a good time, and if paper, Hashers hike though you find yourself in the area, be sure varied terrains to get a to swing by and sample the dishes. unique feel for the wilds of Grenada; An antique, but Hashing with the Harriers all great thinkers go—to come up couple false trails and random shouts still utilized coco grinder awaits — A nice drinking club with a social with some ideas. Several pints and of “Are You?“ followed by cold beer another batch of properly dried problem a few arguments later, the pastime and fried fish. Confused? Yeah, so coco seeds that it will grind into Hashing is a British “sport” invented known as hashing was born! were we, but it’s something you a fine coco powder; Undersea in the 1930s when a couple of bored What is hashing you ask? Well…it’s don’t want to miss when you’re in murals decorate the walls of expats in India needed to get out- a bit difficult to explain. Think nature Grenada. Aquanauts Dive Shop, which is welcoming and tidy with a pro- side but didn’t know what to do. Of walks mixed with trekking, throw in peter and Gerlinde, owners of fessional staff ready to accom- course, they went to the pub—where a few piles of shredded paper, a Aquanauts dive centers, are mem- modate divers

44 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Grenada than ever, as over the last few dives she’d noticed that the headaches she normally got from diving deep had vanished and working the small buttons of her camera housing had been far easier on enriched air. she mentioned this to Peter and his answer, like his nature, was direct and concise: “That’s because of the added in your mix. Listen, everyone, and I mean everyone, who dives at 30 to 40 meters experi- ences some form of nitrogen nar- cosis. Whether they feel it or not, it’s happening on some level. Obviously, you feel it more than others, but if you keep using nitrox, you won’t have to continue to deal with those bers of the Hash House Harriers and problems.” can help you set up a hash on your the boat ride was over before we day off from diving. In fact, they knew it. Peter stepped off first, and I will probably join in and run circles silently snickered at his old-school fins around you, as they are both in bet- that looked like they were manufac- ter shape than most! tured in the 60’s. If you decide to go, and I HIGHLY We reached the Bianca-C, and recommend it, here is what you’ll the viz was outstanding—at least 40 need: 1) clothes you don’t mind get- meters (120 ft). I looked at my com- ting dirty in and a good pair of run- puter and was pleased to see we ning shoes—no flip-flops; 2) a towel; would have over 30 minutes to inves- 3) a full change of clothes; 4) your tigate. sense of humor. Be sure to bring a A few giant barracuda aggressively few dollars for drinks and food after showed us their teeth, as we started and don’t forget to sign up with the making our way forward. The current mis-management when you get was mild, and I didn’t feel hurried there. at all, taking time to study the enor- All first timers get a signed certifi- mous black and green fans making a cate after the hash and a special gift coral forest on the outer hull. Purple from the Harriers. It’s a riot, and you’ll wire coral spi- raled out love it! We promise. from the decks oh, yes, one last thing… It is tradi- amidst great tion that all newcomers wear brand- clusters of new, white socks that reach past the ankles, so bring those too. Bianca-C —Take two Peter, a diving virtuoso and technical master known as “The King of Bianca C” joined us on our second visit to the Bianca. Kate was more excited CLOCKWISE: A magestic eagle ray glides over the Bianca C; Pulling up his reel attached to the safety buoy above, Peter Seupel in his cool fins finishes up the first dive of the day at Bianca C amidst a school of blue chromis; Longsnout butterflyfish (inset) Prognathodes aculeatus 45 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Grenada gliding down into the deep. We lingered at the giant leaning mast where circling jacks and large masses of creole wrasse and yellowtail congregat- ed. Coral, sponges and fans covered the long pole completely, leaving not an inch of bare metal. Kate took a few more shots frightening a group of small silver fish that came to have a look at us and then signaled me to check my gauges. She knows I use far more air than she does and, as an instruc- tor, she tends to mother me in the water. I was at 700 PSI, so Peter pointed his thumb to the waves above. It had been a nice, slow dive, and after my second visit, I didn’t feel cheated as I had before. But she’s a big boat with lots of things left to discover, so I’m reserving the right to come back again. As they say, third time’s a charm. sponges and trees, which a school of yel- lowtails were using for shelter. Shark Reef peter pointed emphatically toward the One of the most memorable dives, as bow, and I looked up to see an eagle ray far as sea life was concerned, had to be flying in slow motion across the mid-sec- our trip to Shark Reef. Only a few min- tion. Fluid and elegant, they are an abso- utes boat ride from True Blue Bay hiding lute delight to swim with. Peter knew we behind Glover’s Island in the Atlantic, this might miss a great photo-op, as the ray reef is known for the sharks, stingrays and moved into more blue water, and he took abundant species of fish that spend their off after it. Suddenly my misgivings about time here. his fins vanished, and I watched in disbe- It’s a shallow dive, ranging from 15–25 lief as he out-swam the spotted ray and meters, so any diver at any level of cer- turned it back toward the bow. It made tification can get lots of time to search one more slow pass, indulging us, before the coral and rock shelves for pelagics and smaller fish. We weren’t in the water more than a minute before we spotted two or three stingrays hiding in the coral breaks. We moved closer for a better look and one of them became nervous, wriggling out green head; apparently under the delu- every time I see them, I marveled at the of its sandy bed and gliding off sion that if it couldn’t see us, we wouldn’t way their upper and lower fins glowed toward more secluded waters. see him. with electric blue lines that move in peri- THIS PAGE: Scenes from Shark Reef. paul tapped his tank and We let the current take us, and I saw staltic waves. CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Divers can get pointed out a rare spotted another rarity— two hawksbill turtles play- We came to a large section of mas- quite close to large nurse sharks sleeping drum feeding among some ing among a growth of sea fans and tube sive coral mounds, and Kate sank down in the coral farms; A hawksbill turtle glides red sponges. He didn’t see it sponges. We gathered around them, but swiftly. She was taking pictures of a nurse slowly among the coral; Swarms of yellow yet, but just below him, under a they seemed oblivious to us, too wrapped shark, easily three meters (9ft) in length. French Grunt surround a diver; A stingray coral shelf, lay a juvenile nurse up in their little sparring match. A dozen It was sleeping, and we were able to get lies in wait buried in the sand shark trying to hide its wide or so black durgons swam by, and, as I do very close. Its skin looked like tri-colored

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CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Diver in hull of the Veronica—a smaller wreck situ- ated just over 20 meters deep, has a wide-open frame and is easy and safe to explore in and out of all her nooks. Divers can even find air pock- ets, trapped in her hull from when she went down; A goat fish swims in the near the wreck; A gorgeous queen angelfish is easily spotted due to its bright neon fin tips. This beauty was found swimming just under the Veronica; Side view of the wreck

The Veronica wreck If you have never been before, the Veronica would be an easy and lovely introduction. Sitting in shallow, clear waters – her keel rests at around 16 meters (50 feet) – the small ship hosts numerous species of reef fish and has a wide open hull divers can enter with no danger. Large expanses of soft-pink cup coral, as well as brown and green sea fans, have rooted themselves along the outer skeleton providing shelter for large numbers of blue chromis and the creole wrasse are absolutely thick here. Surrounding the ship is a large coral bed that stays relatively shallow making a perfect environment for photography as the colors here absolutely sing and the mounds of diverse formations are filled with colorful critters and small fish. If possible try and dive this site twice—once with a macro lens and once with a wide angle. It is shallow enough that you can do this on one tank if necessary; just make sure you watch your air consumption carefully so you have ample time on both dives.

A macro image of telesto on Veronica shows the intricate detail of each single branch 47 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Grenada

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Sunset is reflected in one of Aquanauts Grenada — The Spice five star PADI rating; if you’re the two pools at the True Island’s Premier Dive Operator putting you’re guests’ lives Blue Bay Resort; Tiled dol- Ask most any diver who has spent time in the hands of an 18-year- phin motif decorates floor in the waters of Grenada what operator old kid just because he’s of pool in front of Indigo they prefer to dive with and the answer, certified a few people… rooms; A sunset banquet at the Dodgy Dock restaurant; most definitely, will be Aquanauts owned well, that’s just crazy—and Diver and sleeping nurse and run by Peter and Gerlinde Seupel. very dangerous. There’s far shark in reef; Gerlinde and With three centers on the island and three more to Peter Seupel (inset) well-equipped, beautiful boats, you won’t scuba div- find a more qualified outfit. ing than sandpaper, and the green flecks on its born and raised in the mountains of “I’ve dived dozens and dozens of times how many dorsal fin shimmered from the sunlight Montana, Kelly LaClaire, is a dive writ- here. I’ve even worked for many of the certs your return.” falling on its back. A black and white er based in Portland, Oregon, where shops around the island, and I always instructors After spending a week with them, remora hovered near, obviously afraid his cousin, underwater photographer go with Aquanauts,” said a British PADI give out. I believe it. Aquanauts’ boats are of us but not wanting to leave the and PADI instructor, Kate Clark, also instructor who was on vacation and hap- How much brilliantly clean and superbly main- safety of the shark. resides. The team covers dive sites in pened to be diving with us. As we sat in do they tained. Our gear (BCD’s, computers, We backed off, and Kate took out the Pacific Northwest as well as vari- the sun on a surface interval, she told me know about regulators, suits) worked perfectly and her regulator, flashing me a big smile. ous destinations abroad. At just 22, the why. “Of all the places I have been out their boats, looked new. Before every dive, we It wasn’t just the shark she was happy already accomplished Clark aims to with, Peter runs the safest—and hands the swells, were given exact briefings with exact with. It was everything. Grenada is a travel the world teaching others the down—the best dive shop in Grenada. the currents? How much do they really plans and exact safety procedures. Each magical place—a still unspoiled para- joys of the underwater world, while No one else even comes close.” know about their equipment and do they instructor and dive master carried back- dise of beauty, wonder and adven- LaClaire’s dream is to become less of I asked Peter about this when he joined maintain it properly? How often do they up pony tanks while also making sure we ture for divers and non-divers alike. an air hog. ■ us a day or two later, and he instantly inspect it and buy new gear? How well all were given our own inflatable safety I feel lucky to have been able to became serious. “It’s not just all about do they know rescue procedures, and tubes. We didn’t have a single problem share in all the island had to offer, fun. Of course, we do everything we can how often do they practice them? This is on any of our dives, and it became obvi- and my sincerest wish is that you to provide that for our guests—that’s why what makes a quality dive shop—nothing ous that Aquanauts puts every effort into will give yourself the chance to we’re here—to give people a great and else—and we work hard to make sure our ensuring things stay that way. And as experience it for yourself some- enjoyable dive experience they won’t team is well qualified in all those areas. Peter pointed out, once we knew every- day. You deserve it. forget, but safety has to be a dive shop’s We have to. That’s the only way to ensure thing was well taken care of, we had a first concern. I don’t care if you’ve got a our guests will be happy and want to blast. ■ Cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves 48 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Trumpetfish of many different colors can be seen almost eve- rywhere in Grenadian Grenada travel waters, from right off the boat dock in the harbor to darting in and out of coral formations in the reefs

will not give you one, or tell you they can’t, then something is wrong! Usually this means they have oversold the flight (nearly all flights in December and February are oversold, so this is impor- tant). Even though you have paid for a ticket, if they do not give you a specific seat assignment, you will almost certainly be put on standby and may not be able to get a seat once at the airport. The airlines are often neglectful in explaining this so, again, demand a seat assign- ment or fly with another carrier

Use a travel agent. Sure you will have to pay a little extra for booking fees, but your agent will go to bat for you if any trouble occurs and, if needed, can do your re-booking faster and easier than you can when stuck at an airport due to weather delays, cancellations, missed connections or mechanical problems. Keep your agent’s cell and office phone numbers with you in your carry-on so you can call them if you run into trouble. You paid for this service, so don’t be afraid to use it.

Get travel insurance. Again, this will add a few dollars, but if you lose a day of travel, like we did, your insurance cov- ers all expenses, meals, clothes and can even refund part or all of your flight costs. If you’re working with a travel company, they can set this up for you.

Be sure to pack your carry-on with extras—two days of extra clothes, your toiletry bag, a swimsuit and any dive gear you deem essential like your com- puter, regulator, mask, shorty—things you don’t want to borrow or rent from the Flight Tips the busiest time of year for the airlines, Unfortunately, my photographer, Kate, Get a seat assignment right away. if you can help it—in case Many divers plan their trips in the winter and that means passengers are faced and I had to endure all of the above on Whether you book the flight with an your checked luggage is lost. Nothing is months, specifically December, so they with possible delays, missed vacation the trip to do this story. Here are a few agent, online or over the phone, be sure worse than a couple days stranded in can leave the cold and dreary weather days, lost baggage or equipment and tips to avoid the same holiday hassles to ask for a seat assignment for each leg airports, waiting on planes and stuck in behind and do some warm water div- extensive—hmm, how do I put this light- when flying to Grenada: of the flight you will be on—especially hotel rooms wearing the same under- ing in a tropical paradise. This is also ly—security probes and body searches. with American and Continental. If they wear and socks. ■

49 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED nasa

RIGHT: Location of Hyperbaric Chamber Grenada on global map Grenada does not have a chamber. BELOW: Map of Grenada The closest facility is: BOTTOM RIGHT: Friendly Roxborough Hyperbolic Facility, TLH mono monkey in a wildlife Building, Milford Rd. reserve of Grenada fact file Scarborough, Tabago Grenada 868-709-5655 (phone) Transportation Petite To Rent or Not To Rent? Marinique Unless you’re from the United S E Hillsborough Kingdom or a Commonwealth N source: cia.gov world factbook I nation and you’re comfortable Carriacou D driving on the left side of the road, I Caribbean A Sea N strongly recommend that you DO NOT History Carib Indians first inhabited a democratic govern- E rent a car here. Just bring some extra R Grenada when Columbus “discovered” ment and ensuring free cash and hire taxis. Chances are you’ll G the island in 1498, but it remained uncol- elections for the future. spend less money this way, and you’ll onized by Europeans for more than a Capital: St. George Ronde save yourself the headache of trying to century. The first attempt to do so was by Island helped learn how to drive on the other side of the British in 1609, but they were routed Geography Grenada make a the road while simultaneously trying to out by the native population. In 1650, Grenada is located Sauteurs comeback but the world’s economic figure out Grenada’s confused, hurried Frenchmen tricked the local chiefs into a few hundred miles problems over the last two years have and seemingly lawless traffic system. If selling them a portion of the Island for north of Venezuela Mount stagnated that industry as well, making you choose to rent a vehicle, e-mail me Gouyave Saint NORTH next to nothing and over the next year where the Caribbean Catherine current growth difficult at best. Currently and tell me if you survived. constant skirmishes had decimated the Sea meets the Atlantic ATLANTIC the unemployment rate is at 12.5% with Caribs. Over the next 90 years the British Ocean. The terrain Grenville 32% of its citizens struggling below the Websites and French fought constantly for ultimate is dominated by lush OCEAN poverty line. One of the biggest chal- Grenada tourism SAINT possession of the island and today there mountains densely GEORGE’S Grenada lenges facing the agricultural economy www.grenadagrenadines.com are still several forts dotting the land- covered in every is the strikingly few young adults work- Grenada hotel and tourism association: scape. At that time sugar and tobacco conceivable variety ing in that sector - 90% of all farmers are www.gogrenada.gd ■ were Grenada’s main exports but of spices and fruit over 55 years of age and the number cocoa, coffee and cotton crops were trees: nutmeg, cinna- of young farmers has done nothing but soon being cultivated as well. In 1783 the mon, cocoa, star fruit, decline over the last decade. Tourism, it Island was ceded to Britain who began orange, banana, breadfruit, mango, Environmental issues All of seems, is Grenada’s biggest hope for the bringing huge numbers of African slaves guava, clove, mango, cashew, almond, Grenada power comes from diesel burn- future. to extend their sugarcane production. avocado, grapefruit, palm and bay ing generators and currently there is no The plantation system reigned until the trees. Coastline: 121 km of white sand recycling program in place. Hurricane Currency East Caribbean Dollar emancipation in 1834. A few years later beaches and small volcanic cliffs. Lowest Ivan wiped out 83% of all agricultural (ECD). This currency is pegged to the U.S. nutmeg was introduced to the island; a point: Sea level. Highest point: Mt. Saint crops and the soil is still recovering. dollar. USD1.00 = ECD2.70 commodity nearly as precious as gold Catherine 840 meters (2520 ft). The nation is party to several interna- at the time due to its healing, preserva- tional agreements: Biodiversity, Climate Population 107,818 (July, 2010) tive and flavoring qualities. The local Climate Of course, Grenada has a Change, Climate Change-Kyoto Ethnic groups: black 82%, mixed black soil proved so perfect for the spice that tropical climate with an average tem- Protocol, Desertification, Endangered and European 13%, European and East Grenada is now the world’s second larg- perature in the low 80s F. The dry sea- Species, Law of the Sea, Layer Indian 5%, and trace of Arawak/Carib est nutmeg producer. The island gained son runs from January to May and the Protection, Whaling Amerindian. Religions: Roman Catholic independence from Britain in 1974 but rainy season from June to Dec. Natural 53%, Anglican 13.8%, Protestant sects only five years later was taken over by a include hurricanes. Although Economy Grenada relies on tourism 33.2%. Internet Users: 24,000 as of 2008. communist group that had financial and Grenada lies on the edge of the hurri- as its main source of income followed by political ties with Cuba and the Soviet cane belt and they occur less frequently agricultural products – namely: nutmeg, Language English is the official lan- Union. The United States, Jamaica and than other Northern Caribbean islands, cocoa and other spices. Hurricane Ivan guage but some locals also speak several Eastern Caribbean states jointly they do happen - witness Ivan in 2004 caused massive economic problems French patois (French mixed with local responded with the now famous “rescue and Emily in 2005. The season lasts from and, while the island is recovering, the slang, abbreviations and accented col- mission” and restored order. In 1984 a June to November. country is saddled with large debts from loquialisms). The literacy rate is 96%. general election was held, reestablishing its rebuilding efforts. Tourism growth has

50 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Text and photos by Lawson Wood False Killer Whales — Enchanting Cetaceans of Dominica

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Once or twice in a rare Blue Moon, opportu- nity sometimes comes along and hits you on the head—or in my case, I was hit on the head—by a juvenile sperm whale.

Let me recap. Along with a small group of like-minded conservationists and underwa- ter photographers, we were working under a special per- mit issued by the Ministry of Agriculture and on the Island of Dominica (pronounced DOMINEEKA) to try and iden- tify returning sperm whales and other cetaceans. Dominica is the youngest of the Caribbean islands and is flanked by Guadeloupe to the north and Martinique to the south, which are both French colonies. Inevitably, many of the locals speak a derivative of a French, Carib and West African creole known as Kwéyòl. Ancestors of the original Carib Indians, the Kalinago still live by traditional fishing and farming methods and are rather distinc- tive in appearance, resembling South American Amazon tribes and are much shorter in stature. the Kalinago name for the island is Wai’tukubuli. The local beer is called Kubuli! extremely mountainous in aspect, two of the peaks are over 1,300 metres (4,500ft). I can honestly say that the topography is incredible with fantastic rain- forest fauna and flora all found within cloud-topped peaks, dra-

Eye of scarred sperm whale, Band Aid 73 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Dominica

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: Pod of false killer whales patrol the seas around Dominica; Rugged coastline of Dominica draped with mist; Pair of false killer whales (inset)

encounter any orca (unfortunately also known as killer whales), but they are also known to inhabit these coastal waters, attracted by the large number of juve- niles and calves of the larger whales. speaking of which, whilst orca are members of the dolphin super family, so are false matic gorges, caverns, waterfalls and tion routes between our hemispheres. killer whales. Like orca, false hidden lakes. There are many hot sulphur should the opportunity arise, we were killer whales are also known springs and one of the dive sites is known allowed, under permit, to enter the to prey on other dolphins and as “Champagne” due to the continuous water, and under strict guidelines, to sperm whales, however they streams of bubbles coming up through take photographic records for iden- look more like pilot whales, or the reef. tification purposes of the various dol- round-headed dolphins, than anything the underwater reefs also resemble species that we would encoun- phins, nearly resembling an orca, yet they have more tropical dive sites due to the rar- ter. Distinctive scars, color- Fraser’s very similar behaviours. I have renamed ity of curious fish species, thousands of ation and missing body dol- phins them in my personal logbook as killer dol- colourful crinoids, black coral forests and parts are the most obvi- and spotted dolphins phins! superb colourful sponges. ous identifiers. several riding the bow wave of our so, there we were, bobbing along sperm whales identified individu- research boat. A Bryde’s with the constant drone of our vessel’s And so to sea... (Physeter macro- als have been sighted recur- whale even swam directly engines and the roll of the oceanic Struggling along approximately five to cephalus) were at ring over a number of years. However, under us before we could react over 16 kilometers (ten miles) offshore, ten miles off the western (Caribbean) the top of our list, any encounter with any species is not and get in the water. when the distinctive plumed exhalation coast of Dominica, our goal was to cata- as they are one of only random, it is always extremely wel- In the same super family but curiously spray of a sperm whale was seen in the logue as many cetacean species that the more regu- lar spe- come, and we were soon treated to given a ‘whale’ name in their description, distance. Jerry, our captain, quickly cut use these deep waters as breeding and cies encoun- various aerobatic displays by spinner dol- there were pilot whales, false killer whales the engines, dipped his directional hydro- feeding grounds on their annual migra- tered and phins, bottlenose dolphins, pantropical and pygmy sperm whales. We did not phone into the water and confirmed the

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THIS PAGE: Views of the cheeky juvenile sperm whale, Band- Aid—nicknamed thus due to the scar over his left eye—that pushed underwater photographer/dive writer Lawson Wood out of the way with its large head

clicks of a juvenile sperm whale. named, Band-Aid, due to the curious We maneuvered into position ahead scar over his left eye, he put up with our of our moving target and quietly slipped intrusion into his space for over 20 min- into the water. Undeterred by our pres- utes before he very obviously vented all ence, this young small fellow, at over of his orifices and sounded in front of us. 12 metres (40ft) in length actually swam What an end to a rather perfect day. directly towards us (me!) I then found myself squished between the research Day two boat and a the spy-hopping whale, Day two was another matter altogether. which casually shunted me out of its way There was an ocean, empty of noise, out by its rather large and scarred head. there. hey, don’t worry—I was out of there! We motored and plunged through a This was a BIG baby beast, which quite rising oceanic swell, and the constant pointedly informed me who was the boss. rain battered our hopes. It was so bad at After the initial shock and seeing my one point that we lost sight of the island compatriots swimming off after Scarface, of Dominica. Our captain continually it took all of my effort to catch up with tried the hydrophone, but other than a them. The sperm whale, which deigned few distant dolphin clicks, there were no to allow me to have an encounter, can whales within ten miles of any of our posi- only be described as magical. Now nick- tions.

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CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE: Landscape shot of Dominica; Playful dolphins mixing in the waves; Typical Dominican homes dot the hillside; Wild dolphin leaps out of the sea

our team leader Brandon Cole they attack their (ever the optimist) informed us intended prey. known (as mentioned) to go into that there may not be any whales So, the ocean stealth mode when hunting, but in our research zone, as they was silent—for when interacting with other dol- always swim away whenever false hours—and phins, they have been observed killer whales are in the vicinity—a then, just in front to mimic the sounds of other spe- behavior that had been observed of us, a black, cies and also to actively hunt and on previous occasions. “So, keep rounded head kill other dolphins. a look out for false killer whales!” breached, and I may well be wrong, but, for he said. then several me, it looked like a young dude they are kind of like large dol- more immedi- had just swam into the wrong phins, with that same wry, or ately behind it. neighbourhood. Soon, the small sly grin, but are almost black in brandon Cole dolphin was in the middle of colour and have rounded bul- immediately at least ten BIG guys, many of bous heads, not dissimilar to a identified them whom were exhibiting very obvi- pilot whales. as false killer ous sexual behaviour, as well as Impatiently, we strained our whales (Pseudorca crassidens). on the surface. They certainly squeals and whoops trying unsuc- very quickly, a large male false rather exaggerated movements. eyes as the very patient boat They were hanging around, spotted us before we spotted cessfully to communicate our killer whale returned, swam in Thankfully, whilst this scene was captain scoured the ocean and enjoying their own company and them underwater in the low visibil- love and passion for the species!). and started to escort his ‘cous- being played out beneath us, we deployed his hydrophone to socializing. ity, as we were quickly battered What a joke. They left us flounder- in’ towards the larger group, all had a window of opportunity search for any indication of life in by their sonar clicks when they ing about on the surface. then a second false killer whale to duck-dive down and quickly the depths. Get in the water! all swooped around us, to check Just when we were about to appeared and acted as ‘shot- snap as many photographs as We did not know at the time, With heightened adrenalin and out visually what their sensors give up hope and return to the gun’ on the other side of the dol- possible of this quickly changing but when false killer whales are nervousness, we all entered the were telling them. (Stupid, slow, research boat, a young bottle- phin. I had a moment of unease scenario. hunting, they travel in stealth water and swam slowly towards landlubbers, pretending to be nose dolphin (Tursops truncatus) over the plight of this young the false killer whales (killer mode—completely silent—as where the group could be seen dolphins, uttering unrecognizable appeared. fellow, as false killer whales are dolphins) have a very distinc-

76 X-RAY MAG : 42 : 2011 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Dominica Lawson Wood was raised in the Scottish east coast fishing town of and spent his youth exploring the rock pools and shallow seas before learning to scuba dive at the tender age of 11. Now over 44 years later, Lawson has been fortunate to make his passion his career and has authored and co-authored over 45 books mainly on our underwater world. He is a founding member of the Marine Conservation Society, founder of the first at St. Abbs in , and made photographic history by becoming the first person to be a Fellow of the Royal Photographic Society and Fellow of the British Institute of Professional Photographers solely for . For more information, see: Lawsonwood.com ■

whale watching capi- by America Eagle (American tal of the Caribbean, Airways) from Miami and Tampa but no-one had pre- (via Puerto Rico) or with Liat or pared us for the qual- Winair for transfers from Antigua, ity of the reef diving. Barbados, Virgin Islands, St. Maarten, Guadeloupe, Things you Martinique and St.Lucia. There need to know is a departure tax of EC$59.00 As Dominica was (US$23.00) payable at the formerly a British airport. protectorate, For those who love island electricity is all 220v hopping, there is a 300-seat (British style plugs). catamaran ferry that operates tive, rather large, toothy, sly grin, the encounter. Rather humbling, Most hotels will have 110v between Guadeloupe, which they continued to flash at these beasts made us feel - adapters. Dominica, Martinique and St. us, as if they were stating, “We teurish, ungainly and clearly out Driving is also British style, Lucia. know something you don’t,” or, of our depth. and cars usually drive on the Whale watching scientific “Don’t mess with us—we may the rest of the week yielded left side of the road. For those permits are rarely issued look like we are smiling, but the few results other than sightings more nervous types who would and then only to bona fide teeth are big and sharp, and the of small dolphin groups, the killer rather not negotiate the narrow, enthusiasts who will pass over little guy is ours!” dolphins had certainly spooked winding, often single-track roads photographs and a report to I had a rather unsettling feel- the bigger whales as well as our- on the island, there are local the ministry in charge. Tourists ing, which, as the pack led this selves. Deciding to concentrate taxis and minibuses that are quite can go whale and dolphin young innocent dolphin away on a few reef dives before leav- inexpensive and very regular. watching on a number of from us, that this may be the last ing our lodgings at the Titiwi Inn currency is the EC$ (Eastern boats, but are not allowed in time anyone would ever see the in the capital Roseau, we were Caribbean Dollar) which is the water. dolphin again. soon enthusing about the very approximately 2.67 to the U.S. the Dominica Hotel and our group was somewhat high quality of reef life, colourful dollar. U.S. dollars are accepted Tourism Association (DHTA) can stunned, yet exuberant over critters and friendly fish. everywhere, but the exchange be found at: Dhta.org. Diving the encounter, yet all of us had Dominica had certainly lived may not be in your favour. information can be found at: THIS PAGE: Scenes of a pod of false killer whales surrounding and escorting their quite an uneasy feeling during up to its reputation as being the Flight services are handled Dominicawatersports.com. captive, a single dolphin, away from the divers

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