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LEGACY CELEBRATION SCRIPPS INSTITUTION OF OCEANPGRAPHY 17 OF OCTOBER,2019

MUNK AND SVERDRUP:HEREOS IN BY OLA M.JOHANNESSEN AND KLAUS HASSELMANN

SLIDE 1:PITCURE OF WALTER MUNK

SLIDE 2:TITEL PAGE,WALTER,THE STUDENT AND HIS MENTOR SVERDRUP

SLIDE 3:DOCTOR WALTER MUNK AND HIS SUPERVISOR PROFESSOR SVERDRUP IN 1946

SLIDE 4:WALTER’S PHD :’’INCREACE IN THE PERIOD OF WAVES TRAVELLING OVER LARGE DISTANCE WITH APPLICATION TO , AND SEISMIC SURFACE WAVES’’.SUBMITTED OCTOBER 1946 APPLIED TO TSUNAMIS FROM ALEUTION EARTH QUAKE 1O OF APRIL 1946,LONG WAVE FORRUNNERS IN ENGLAND AND SEISMIC SURFACE WAVES FROM MONTANA EARTQUAKE 28 JUNE 1925 AND MEXIAN IN 1943 IN GENERAL WITH GOOD AGREEMENT WITH THE TWO FIRST ONE.

SLIDE 5:1947 SHOULD BE 1946.SEE TEXT ON THE SLIDE.THE ERROR ON HIS THESIS WAS CLEARED UP IN A NOTE IN 1950 IN THE BULLETIN OF SEISMOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF AMERICA,1949.

HERE I MUST TELL YOU A STORRY.WALTER,ME AND 100 MORE SCIENTISTS TOOK PART IN AN ACOUSTIC CONFERENE IN ONE OF HAWAIAN ISLANDS MANY YEARS AGO.ONE MORNING AT 6 I WOKE UP OF LOUD SIRENES.AT A MOMENT,STILL HALF ASLEEP ,I THOUGHT I WAS BACK IN THE WAR WITH AN AIR ATTACT ON CITY.BUT OF COURCE IT WAS A TSUNAMIS WARNING FOR A WAVE OF 3-4 M PREDICTED TO HIT AS AT SIX IN THE EVENING.THE HOTEL STARTED IMEDIATLY TO CLEAR THE BEACH AND THE FIRST AND SECOND FLOOR AND WE WERE EVACUATED TO A PLACE HIGHER UP.A FULL EVACUATION IN HONOLULU AND OTHER PLACES TOOK PLACE.WALTER WAS OF COURCE IN THE CENTER SINCE HE HAD DONE PIONERING RESEARCH ON TSUNAMISES AND WE ASKED HIM MANY QUESTIONS AT SIX WE ALL WAITED FOR THE TSUNAMIS,IT CAME BUT ONLY 25 CM HIGH.IT HAD GONE NORTH OF US AND THE PRDICTION WAS NO GOOD.OF COURCE WE TEASED WALTER AFTER THIS AND ASKED HIM AGAIN TO GET INTERESTED IN TSUNAMIS PREDICTION,BUT HIS INTEREST WAS IN ACOUSTICS AT THIS TIME

SLIDE 6:SVERDRUP WAS THE ASSISTANT OF VILHELM BJERKNES TOGETHER WITH HIS SON JACK BJERKNES AT THE NEWLY OPEN GEOPHYSICAL INSTITUTE IN LEIPZIG BEFORE THE FIRST WAR IN1914..HOWEVER THE WAR CAUSED THAT BJERKNES WANTED TO RETURN TO ,HE WAS TIRED OF TEACHING LUFTWAFFE PILOTS METEROLOGY AND ALSO THE SHORTAGE OF FOOD.BJERKNES’S MOTHER WENT TO NANSEN AND ASKED HIM TO GET POSSITIONS FOR THEM IN NORWAY.NANSEN RAISED FUNDING FOR THEM IN FEW DAYS AND THEY WENT TO BERGEN WHERE BJERKNES CREATED THE BERGEN SCHOOL OF METEROLOGY,FUNDAMENTAL FOR WEATHER FORCASTING.SVERDRUP TOOK HIS DOCTOR DEGREE ON THE NORTH ATLANTIC TRADE WIND IN 2017 BUT WANTED TO GO TO SEA TO TAKE OCEANOGRAPHICAL OBSERVATIONS.OPERTUNITY CAME WHEN HE WAS OFFER TO BE WITH ROLAD AMUNDSEN 7 YEARS MAUD EXPEDITION TO THE ARCTIC OCEAN 1918- 1925.AMUNDSEN PLAN WAS TO REPEAT NANSEN FRAM DRIFT BUT TO REACH THE NORH POLE.

SLIDE 7:BUT DUE TO WEATHER AND ICE CONDITION THEY NEVER REACHED EVEN THE DEEP WATER OF THE ARCTIC OCEAN,ONLY DRIFTING BACK AND FORTH ON THE SIBERIAN WIDE SHELF.FROM THIS POINT OF VIEW THE EXPEDITION WAS NOT A SUCESS

SLIDE 8:BUT FROM A SCIENTIFIC POINT OF VIEW UNDER SVERDRUPS LEADERSHIP THE EXPEDITION WAS VERY SUCESSFUL AND A VERY ADVANCED PROGRAM WAS CARRIED OUT AND PUBLICHED IN 5 VOLUMES GIVING FUNDAMENTAL NEW RESULTS ABOUT ICE DRIFT RELATIONSHIP TO WIND,AIR-ICE-OCEAN INTERACTION,SHELF OCEANOGRAPHY,SEA ICE PROPERTIES AND THEIR TIDAL ANALYSIS INDICATED THAT THERE WAS NO LAND IN THE MIDDEL OF THE ARCTIC OCEAN,REJECTING HARRIS TIDAL THEORY.THIS WAS LATER CONFIRMED WITH AMUNDSEN FLIGHT ACROSS THE ARCTIC OCEAN WITH THE AIRSHIP NORWAY IN 1926 WHERE JACK BJERKNES WAS THE METEROLOGIST,LATER HE BECAME PROFESSOR AT .I MET HIM IN BERGEN AS A STUDENT SEVERAL TIMES

SLIDE 9:Odd DAHL WAS SVERDRUP’S INSTRUMENT ASSISTANT AND TOGETHER THAT CONSTRUCTED THE FIRST ELECTRICAL CURRENT WITH AN ANALOG RECORDER ON BOARD. 40 YEARS LATER I USED 4 OF THESE CURRENT METERS IN MY THESIS WHICH WAS A CURRENT MEASURMENT PROGRAM IN THE ENTRANCE TO THE OSLOFJORD.ODD DAHL WAS ALSO THE FIRST PILOT TO TAKE OFF FROM THE ICE IN THE ARCTIC OCEAN DURING THE MAUD EXPEDITION BUT AFTER THREE TAKES OFF HE CRACHED THE PLANE.I NEW HIM VERY WELL AND HE TOLD ME MANY STORIES FROM THE MAUD EXPEDITION,HE HATED THE DOGS ONBOARD

SLIDE 10:IN 1931 SVERDRUP TOOK PART IN THE VISJONARY SUPMARINE NAUTLIS OF SIR HUBERY WILKINS EXPEDITION,PLANED TO CROSS THE ARCTOC OCEAN UNDER THE ICE.SVERDRUP AND HIS TWO ASSISTANTS HAD PLANNED A VERY ADVANCED SCIENTIFIC PROGRAM,BUT UNFORTUNATLY OR PERHAPS FORTUNATLY THE DIVING RUDDER FELT OFF WHEN TRYING TO GET UNDER THE ICE AND THEY HAD TO RETURN TO BEFGEN,WHERE THEY SUNK THE SUBMMARINE IN BYFJORDEN IN BERGEN.HOWEVER ON THEIR WAY FROM THE ICE EDGE SVERDRUP TOOK MANY OCEANOGRAPHICAL STATIONS OF THE INFLOW OF THE ATLANTIC WATER INTO THE ARCTIC OCEAN NORTH OF SVALBARD,PUBLICHED IN A MIT-WOODS HOLE PAPER IN 1933.IN 1958 the US NUCLEAR SUBMARINE FINALLY WENT UNDER THE ICE FROM THE BEERING STRAIT UNDER THE NORTH POLE AND OUT IN THE GREENLAND SEA,IMPLEMENTING THE 1931 NAUTLIS PLAN.

SLIDE 11:SVERDRUP WAS CALLED TO BE THE SCRIPPS DIRECTOR IN 1936 AND HE STARTED TO TAKE SCRIPPS TO SEA.IN 1939 HE TOOK 53 OCEANOGRAPHIC STATTIONS IN GULF OF CALIFORNIA WHICH INDICATED THAT INTERNAL WAVES WERE PRESENT.LATER SVERDRUP GOT INVOLVES IN A LARGE PROJECT DEALING WITH THE SARDIN DEPLETION ALONG THE COAST OF CALIFORNIA AND IN 1943 HE STARTED TO DEVELOP A POST WAR PROGRAM FOR SCRIPPS

SLIDE 12:THE ANALYSIS OF SVERDRU’S OBSERVATIONS IN GULF OF CALIFORNIA BECAME WALTER’S MASTER THESIS ON CALTECH UNDER SUPERVISION OF SVERDRUP WHICH WALTER COMPLETED IN 1940, AFTER THAT SVERDRUP APROVED WALTER TO BE HIS PHD STUDENT,BUT WARNED HIM THAT POSSITIONS IN OCEANOGRAPHY WAS VERY FEW

SLIDE 13:THANK YOU TO SVERDRUP FROM WALTER FOR HIS ADVICE ON HIS MASTER THESIS

SLIDE 14:THE SHIP ‘’E.W.SCRIPPS’’ WHERE THE 53 SATIONS WERE DONE WHICH WAS THE BASE FOR WALTERS MASTER THESIS

SLIDE 15:THE OCEANOGRAPHICAL STATIONS IN THE GULF OF CALIFORNIA INDICATING INTERANL WAVES,A TOPIC WALTER RETURNED TO LATER IN,WHICH WE WILL HEAR MORE OF IN A LATER SPEACH

SLIDE 16.IN 1938,SVERDRUP AND CO-WORKERS STARTED ON THE BIBEL ‘’THE OCEAN’’ WHICH WAS PUBLICHED IN 1942,BUT NOT ELSWHERE BECAUSE IT CONTAINED USEFUL I INFORMATIONS FOR THE SUBMARINE WARFARE.A COPY WAS HANDCARIED TO THE ENGLISH NAVY.AFTER THE WAR THE BOOK WAS PUBLICHED ALL OVER THE WORD AND EVEN TODAY SHOULD BE READ BY STUDENTS AND THE SCIENTIFIC COMUNITY.

OCCANSIALLY,DURING THE PREPERATION OF THE FIGURES ,SVERDRUP WOULD HAVE WALTER TO READ OFF NUMBERS FOR HIM,SVERDRUP WOULD BEAM IF A POINT CONFIRMED A DEVELOPING PATTERN AND SCOWL IF IT MISSED

SLIDE 17:EDITING THE BOOK

SLIDE 18:UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA ESTABLICHED A DIVISION OF WAR AT THE NAVAL BASE AT POINT LOMA WITH SVERDRUP AS THE LEADER FROM 1941 TO WORK WITH WAR RELATED OCEANOGRAPHICAL PROBLEMS.HOWEVER 1 OF MARCH 1942 SVERDRUP WAS DENIDED AXCESS TO THE POINT LOMA LABORATORY BECAUSE HE LOST HIS SECURITY CLEARENCE CAUSED BY SOME RUMORS THAT HIS FAMILY WAS NAZI FRIENDLY,WHICH WAS A TOTAL NONSENCE.ALSO WALTER LOST HIS SECURITY CLEARENE FOR A SHORT TIME.HOWEVER WHO WAS A COMADER IN THE NAVY PATCHED THIS UP WHICH ALLOWEDED SVERDRUP TO CONTINUE TO WORK WITH THE WAVE PREDICTIONS TOGETHER WITH WALTER.TO MAKE THE STORRY SHORT SVERDRUP AND WALTER GATHER AVIABLE WAVE,FETCH AND WIND OBSERVATIONS TO PRODUCE AN EMPIRICAL WAVE PREDICTION METHOD TO BE USED FOR WAVE AND SURF PREDICTION FOR LANDING OF ALLIED FORCES,FIRST IN NORTH AFRICA BEFORE THE NORMANDI LANDING.SVERDRUP AND MUNK ALSO ORGANIZED SEVERAL COURCES OF WAVE PREDICTION FOR US NAVAL OFFICIERS WHICH ALSO WERE USED IN THE PASIFIC THEIR METHOD WAS USED IN THE NORMANDIE LANDING,THE INVASION DAY WAS PLANNED FOR 5 OF JUNE IN 1944,BUT IT WAS POSPONED TO 6 OF JUNE DUE TO BAD WEATHER AND TO BIG WAVES,ACORDING TO THE WAVE PREDICTION FOR THE BEACHES IN NORMANDI,SAVING MANY,MANY LIVES.

SLIDE 19:SVERDRUP AND MUNK WROTE A CLASSIFIED PAPER ABOUT THE WAVE PREDICTION WHICH WAS DECLASSIFIED AFTER THE WAR AND PUBLICHED IN 1947,THE FAMOUS H.O.PUBLICATION NO.601

SLIDE 20.IN THIS PUBLICATATION THEY DEFINED A NEW STATISTICAL TERM FOR LARGER WAVES WHICH IS USED TODAY,THE SO-CALLED ‘’SIGNIFICANT WAVE HIGHTS’’ THEY ALSO WROTE DOWN THE REQUIRMENTS NEEDED TO DEVELOP THEIR EMPIRICAL PREDICTION METHOD,WHICH DURING THE WAR WAS DIFFICULT TO GET.WALTER MENTIONED THAT THEY WERE ABEL TO OBTAIN A LONG RECORD OF WAVES AND WIND FROM THE RECORD OF PAN AMERICAN SEA PLANES LANDING AND TAKE OFFS IN THE AZORES,BUT ON SAUTERDAYS EVENING HIGH SPIKES IN THE WAVE RECORD APPEARED NOT FITTING THEIR METHOD AND WALTER CLAIMED THAT THIS WAS DUE TO THE PORTUGUESE VIN ROSE.

SLIDE 21:AN EXAMPEL OF WAVE HIGHT AND WIND SPEED FROM THEIR REPORT

SLIDE 22:THIS SLIDE SHOW SOME COMMENT KLAUS HASSELMANN WROTE IN A PAPER CELEBRATION WALTER’S 65 YEARS BIRTDAY IN 1982 AT SCRIPPS.

KLAUS HAD READ THE H.O.601 REPORT AND THOUGHT IT WAS ‘A ’STRANGLY,MYSTICAL TRACT BASED ON INADEQUALITY DEFINED INTUTIVE CONCEPTS WHICH SEEMED TO BASCIALLY CONTRADICT EXISTING KNOWLEDGE OF SURFACE WAVES DYNAMICS’’

BUT AFTER READING IT AGAIN AFTER SOME YEARS KLAUS CHANGED HIS MIND AND WROTE ‘’THAT THE INTRINSIC BEAUTY AND TIMELESS RELEVANCE OF THIS WORK FINALLY BECAME CLEAR TO ME AND THAT WE NOW CAN PROPERLY APPRECIATE THE PIONERING WORK OF SVERDRUP AND MUNK IN THE FORTIES’’

AFTER MEETING WALTER IN PERSON KLAUS WAS VERY HAPPY TO ACEPT AN OFFER TO WORK AT SCRIPPS WITH WALTER FOR 4 YEARS,1961-1964 AND THEY PUBLICHED SEVERAL PAPERS TOGETHER

SLIDE 23.A COMPARISON BETWEEN THE SIGNIFICANT WAVE HIGHT FROM H.O.NO.601 AND THE LARGE WAVE EXPERIMENT JONSWAP,RIGHT ON AND WALTER WAS VERY HAPPY

SLIDE 24.WE PRESENTED A PAPER ON WALTER’S 90 BIRTDAY ABOUT WALTER’S COOPERATION WITH US

HE REGULARY WENT TO KLAUS’S MAX PLANCK INSTITUTE IN HAMBURG AS A MEMBER OF THEIR ADVISORY COMMITE AS AN IMPORTANT INSPIRATOR

I MET WALTER FIRST IN 1963 AND HE WAS MANY TIMES IN BERGEN AND I VISITED HIM SEVERAL TIMES HERE AT SCRIPPS. HE WAS AWARDED AN HONORABLE DOCTOR DEGREE AT THE UNIVERSITY OF BERGEN IN 1975 AND WAS MANY TIMES AT THE NANSEN CENTER HE ALSO INSPIRED ME AND KLAUSS TO DO A THEORETCIAL STUDY HOW THE GLOBAL WARMING IN THE ARCTIC OCEAN COULD BE MEASURED BY THE ACOUSTIC THERMOMENTRY,WHICH WALTER HAD PIONEERED.I AM GLAD TO SEE THAT THE MIKHALEVSKY AND BAGGEROER EXPERIMENT WITH AVOUSTIC PROPAGATION ACROSS THE ARCTIC OCEAN IN 1995 IS NOW REPATED AFTER 25 YEARS BY THE NANSEN CENTER WITH HANNE SAGEN IN COOPERATION WITH SCRIPPS WITH PETER WORCESTER THIS YEAR,WHICH WILL TELL US WHAT HAS HAPPEN WITH THE ARCTIC OCEAN TEMPERATURE DURING THIS 25 YEARS PERIOD.

SLIDE 25:WAVE FORCASTING DEVELOPMENT BASED ON THE THE SVERDRUP AND MUNK H.O.601 UP TO THE 1990s USING THE WAM MODEL SLIDE 26.

SLIDE 26,SEE ABOVE

SLIDE 27:WHAT HAVE WE LEARNED FROM WALTER ACORDING TO KLAUS.I WILL ADD WHAT WALTER ALWAYS SAID

‘’KEEP IT SIMPEL’’

SLIDE 28:WALTER AND KLAUS AT KLAUS’s 60 YEARS BIRTHDAY IN HAMBURG 1991.KLAUS GAVE A TALK ABOUT HIS NEW METRON THEORY IN RELATION TO THE UNIFIED THEORY WITH PACKED HAND WRITTEN OVERHEADS AND MOST OF US WERE LOST OUT PRETTY FAST.AFTER THE TALK WALTER,WHO LIKES TO ASK DIFFICULT QUESTIONS ASKED KLAUS THE FOLLOWING

‘’AND YOU REALLY BELIVE PEOPLE UNDERSTOOD WHAT YOU WERE SAYING’’

SLIDE 29:THE BOOK ABOUT WALTER BY VON STORCH AND HASSELMANN

SLIDE30:SVERDRUPS 1947 FAMOUS PAPER OF WIND DRIVEN CURREMTS IN A BAROCLINIC OCEAN,STOMMEL 1948 PAPER ON THE WESTWARD INTENSIFICATION OF WIND DRIVEN WHICH WALTER USE AS A BASE FOR HIS FAMOUS 1950 PAPER ON THE WIND-DRIVEN OCEAN CIRCULATION WHICH HE WROTE WHEN HE WAS A GUGGENHEIM FELLOW FOR 6 MONTHS AT THE UNIVERSITY,STARTING IN THE FALL OF 1948,THE SAME YEAR AS SVERDRUP RETURNED TO NORWAY BEFORE HIM

SLIDE 31:WALTER’S WIND DRIVEN PAPER CAME UP WITH THE WIND DRIVEN GYRES CIRCULATION A TERM HE INVENTED AND WHICH IS USED TODAY.SVERDRUP ADVICE HIM IN THIS WORK IN OSLO.WE WILL HEAR MORE ABOUT THE WIND DRIVEN CIRCULATION LATER

SVERDRUP,WHEN HE RETURNED TO NORWAY,HE BECAME THE DIRECTOR OF THE NORWEGIAN POLAR INSTITUTE,A PROFESSOR AT THE UNIVERSITY OF OSLO WHERE HE LATER BECOME THE DEAN AND VICE RECTOR.HE ORGANIZED AN EXPEDITION TO SVALBARD AND TO ANTARTICA WHERE HE TOOK PART HIMSELF AND WAS THE LEADER OF A FISHERY PROJECT IN INDIA FOR THE NORWEGIAN DEVELOPMENT AGENCY.HE ALSO REORGANIZE THE NORWEGIAN UNIVERSITIES EDUCATIONAL PROGRAM,THE SO CALLED ‘’SVERDRUP PLAN’’ AFTER THE US SYSTEM WITH BATCHLER,MASTER AND PHD DEGREES.HE HAD A HEART PROBLEM AND IRONICALLY DIED AT HIS DOCTOR’S OFFICE IN 1957 ONLY 62 YEARS OLD,A BIG MISS FOR NORWAY.

SLIDE 32:THE CIRCLE IS CLOSING,MAUD IS BROUGHT BACK TO VOLLEN IN ASKER WHERE SHE WAS BUILT 100 YEARS AGO,TOWED ALL THE WAY FROM CAMBRIDGE BAY WHERE SHE LAID SUNKEN.WALTER WAS THE GUEST OF HONOR SINCE HE WAS SVERDRUP’S STUDENT AND THAT THEY HAD WORKED TOGETHER IN MANY YEARS

SLIDE 33:WALTER IS TELLING ABOUT SVERDRUP AND HIS ACHIVMENTS,IN PARTICULAR THE WORK ON WAVE PREDICTION FOR THE NORMANDI INVASION

SLIDE 34:WALTER WITH ANNA SVERDRUPS DAUTHER TO THE LEFT,98 YEARS OLD AND MARY,WALTER’S WIFE ANNA WROTE A LETTER TO THE SCRIPPS DIRECTOR WHICH SHE ASKED ME TO DELIVER TO MARGERATE AND I WILL ALSO GIVE HER A BOOK DEALING WITH 100 YEARS OF OCEANOGRAPHY AND METEROLOGY IN BERGEN,WHERE MANY PAGES ARE DEVOTED TO SVERDRUP,PERHAPS OF INTEREST FOR SCRIPPS.

SLIDE 35:THE NORWEGIAN ACADEMY ARRANGED A LUNCH IN HONOR OF WALTER WHERE AGAIN WALTER GAVE A SPEACH IN PARTICULAR THAT SVERDRUP WAS CLEARED REGARDING HIS SECURITY CLEARENCE BUT SVERDRUP WAS NEVNER TOLD.IF HE HAD BEEN TOLD AFTER THE WAR,HE PROABLY WOULD HAVE STAYED ON AT SCRIPPS,BECAUSE THIS SECURITY CASE BOTHERED SVERDRUP ALL HIS LIFE AND ALSO WALTER THAT SVERDRUP WAS NEVER TOLD WHEN HE WAS ALIVE.WALTER WAS THEREFORE GLAD TO TELL US ALL THAT SVERDRUP WAS CLEARED.

VIDIO:WHEN WALTER WAS IN NORWAY DURING THE MAUD CELEBRATION THE MAIN NORWEGIAN TV CHANNEL MADE AN INTERVIEW WITH HIM IN 2018,WHICH WAS ON THE TV THIS YEAR ON 6 OF JUNE,75 YEARS AFTER THE NORMANDI LANDING.IT IS IN NORWEGIAN MOST OF IT BUT I THINK YOU WILL UNDERSTAND IT.