LEADERSHIP TRAINING – Assessment Tool Purpose Of

LEADERSHIP TRAINING – Assessment tool

Purpose of assessment:

To determine if the trainee leader/guide has the capability to independently conduct the activities described on this assessment form without the assistance or prompting of others. Trainee guides must be capable of discharging their OH&S obligations and acting with due care and diligence.

Student: Joe Student

Assessor: I. M. Best

Date: Today

Activity: Guide a client on a multi-pitch trad route (lead climbing). The trainee guide will lead the route and the ‘client’ will second.

Endorsements: [P] Abseiling (refer to AV form) [P] Top rope climbing [P] Top belay [P] Bottom belay [P] Lead climbing [P] Traditional (‘Trad’ routes) [P] Bolted ‘sport’ routes [P] Double rope technique [ ] Single-pitch applications [P] Multi-pitch applications [P] Natural cliff

Site (cliff): The best cliff in the world

Route: Dance into the night

Grade: (if applicable) 17 Height: 180m No. of pitches: 6

Ascent style: [ ] Redpoint (if applicable) [ ] Flash [P] On sight flash

Risk assessment: [P] Completed [ ] Not completed

Work method [P] Completed [ ] Not completed Statement:

Environment [P] Completed [ ] Not completed Assignment:

Equipment: [P] Sufficient and adequate for intended activity [ ] Insufficient and/or inadequate for intended activity [P] Meets appropriate manufacturing standards (eg EN, AS etc) [ ] Does not meet appropriate manufacturing standards

Planned timeframe: 5 hours (this is the students original planned time frame)

Leadership assessment tool - SAMPLE VER 1.0 01/09/2003 © Copyright PACI Page 1 of 6 UNITS OF COMPETENCY

The following list represents the complete cluster of units that define a PACI climbing guide (multi- pitch lead climbing endorsement). Red units indicate multi-pitch contexts. For leaders with abseiling or top rope endorsements, not all units will apply.

Tick those units that apply to your particular leadership training. Details of units are at www.ntis.gov.au

UNIT CODE UNIT TITLE COMPETENT?

Core units SRXEMR001A Respond to emergency situations Yes SRXEMR002A Coordinate emergency response Yes SRXFAD001A Provide first aid Yes SRXGRO001A Facilitate a group Yes SRXGRO002A Deal with conflict Yes SRXGRO003A Provide leadership to groups Yes SRXINU002A Apply sport and recreation law Yes SRXOHS001B Follow defined OH&S policy and procedures Yes SRXOHS002B Implement & monitor the organisation’s OH&S policies, procedures & Yes programmes SRXRIK001A Undertake risk analysis of activities Yes SROODR002A Plan outdoor recreation activities Yes SROODR003A Plan outdoor recreation activities (advanced) Yes SROODR005A Guide outdoor recreation sessions Yes SROODR006A Manage risk in an outdoor activity Yes SROOPS002B Plan for minimal environmental impact Yes SROOPS003B Apply weather information Yes

Abseiling units SROABN003A Apply single pitch abseiling skills on natural surfaces Yes SROABN004A Establish ropes for single pitch abseiling on natural surfaces Yes SROABN005A Apply multi pitch abseiling skills on natural surfaces Yes SROABN006A Establish ropes for multi pitch abseiling on natural surfaces Yes SROABN007A Guide abseiling on natural surfaces (single pitch) Yes SROABN009A Guide abseiling on natural surfaces (multi pitch) Yes

Climbing units SROCLN001A Demonstrate simple climbing skills on natural surfaces Yes SROCLN002A Apply climbing skills on natural surfaces Yes SROCLN003A Establish belays for climbing on natural surfaces Yes SROCLN004A Apply lead climbing skills on natural surfaces Yes SROCLN005A Apply multi pitch lead climbing skills on natural surfaces Yes SROCLN006A Establish belays for multi pitch climbing on natural surfaces Yes SROCLN007A Guide climbing activities on natural surfaces (restricted) Yes SROCLN008A Guide lead climbing activities on natural surfaces (single pitch) Yes SROCLN010A Guide lead climbing activities on natural surfaces (multi pitch) Yes

Vertical rescue units SROVTR001A Perform vertical rescues Yes SROVTR002A Perform complex vertical rescues Yes

Page 2 of 6 Leadership assessment tool - SAMPLE VER 1.0 01/09/2003 © Copyright PACI Briefing – (assessment of trainee guides’ ability to deliver a briefing)

Content actually stated by trainee guide:

Key point stated Assessor comment

Conducted meet & greet Ok Issued basic gear (harness, helmet & climbing shoes) at carpark Ok Walked down to cliff – asked questions about prior experience Ok Gave brief history & description of route Ok

Tying in – demo given Ok – should reinforce never to untie!

Removing gear – demo given Should have used rope Double rope belay technique Kept it simple - good Safety calls Good – very clear

Minimum hard skills content: - Use this list as a benchmark when giving feedback/critique

Abseiling activities: [P] Brief history & description of abseiling cliff [P] Fit & adjust equipment (harness, helmet, gloves etc) [P] How client will be safeguarded in case let go of rope (eg self belay or via top belay as appropriate) [P] Ground training – how to abseil – demo [P] Safety calls

Top rope climbing activities [ ] Brief history & description of route [ ] Fit & adjust equipment (harness, helmet, shoes & chalk bag) [ ] Tying in – demo [ ] Belay procedures (bottom belay) - demo [ ] Safety calls [ ] Demo of basic climbing techniques

Lead climbing activities: [P] Brief history & description of route [P] Fit & adjust equipment (harness, helmet, shoes & chalk bag) [P] Tying in - demo [P] How to remove & rack protection devices (including use of nut tool) - demo [P] Belay procedures (may be single or double rope) - demo [P] Safety calls [P] Demo of basic climbing techniques while leading (eg “I’m at the crux now, watch how I do it!” – “I’m taking a rest here, watch how I position my body”)

Was the content relevant & appropriate for the type of activity? [P] Yes [ ] No If no, state reasons at end of this document…

Leadership assessment tool - SAMPLE VER 1.0 01/09/2003 © Copyright PACI Page 3 of 6 Timeline of events:

TIME ELAPSED EVENT COMMENTS TIME

07:50 00:00 Arrived at start of route Nil 07:54 00:04 Assessor intervention Discussion on stacking ropes in slings to give client preview on what’s to come… could get client to stack ropes while guide racks up… belay ledge had limited space. -Wanted client to belay from awkward high position where loss of balance and fall could occur… intervened to have client belay from lower (and easier) position. 08:07 00:17 Commenced safety briefing -Reminded to identify name of route and a little about the history… creates points of interest for client -Covered minimum required criteria: · safety callsP · Gear removal (including nut tool) P · Belay skills (double rope) P 08:20 00:30 Guide commenced climbing -Guide kicked out piece of pro… 1st pitch (35m 10 face) -Went off route early on, then corrected 09:02 01:12 Arrived at belay ledge (1st -42 mins to climb easy 1st pitch… a little pitch) slow for grade… 09:05 01:15 Called safe (1st pitch) Nil 09:22 01:32 Called on belay -20 mins overall timeframe to complete belay and take ropes in (okay, but could be faster). 09:53 02:03 Guide commenced climbing -27 mins to climb 10m (slow) 2nd pitch (10m / 15 traverse) -Nervous on traverse -Placed #2 Camalot instead of solid wired nut… -Protection was placed to avoid client pendulum (good judgement) 10.20 02:30 Guide arrived at 2nd pitch Nil belay 10:24 02:34 Called safe -4 mins to make safe 10:45 02:55 Called on belay -21 mins overall time frame to complete belay and take in the ropes --belay position good -client comfort on small ledge allowed for… good belay positioning and rope management 11:01 03:11 Client arrived at 2nd pitch -Client arrived at 2nd pitch belay belay -17 mins to get organised and climbing again…

TIME ELAPSED EVENT COMMENTS TIME

11:18 03:28 Guide commenced climbing -1 hr 14 mins to climb 35m / 16 3rd pitch -Initially attempted to climb without placing gear to prevent a factor 2 fall -Forgot to take slings, had to down climb -Slow because went off route -Placed both cam and wire behind large loose block – marginal pro -Going off route caused some rope drag 12:32 04:42 Called safe Nil 12:57 05:07 Called on belay -25 mins overall timeframe to complete belay and take in ropes TIME LUNCH BREAK Had a well deserved break to replenish – RESET discussed performance so far… 16:27 00:00 Guide commenced climbing -27 mins to climb 45m… pitch was very 5th pitch easy and Paul could have climbed faster. 16:54 00:27 Called safe Nil 17:14 00:47 Called on belay -20 mins to complete belay setup and take ropes in… on limit of time expectations – need to improve speed of setup. 17:22 00:55 Clients arrive at 5th pitch -Trouble taking in ropes to keep up with belay ledge climbers (8 mins to climb as second) – rope management suffered, entanglement. 17:33 01:06 Guide commenced climbing -11 mins to get ready for last pitch 6th pitch -35 mins to climb last pitch 35m / 12 -Found reasonable pro, improvement over previous effort week prior… 18:08 01:41 Called safe Nil 18:15 01:48 Called on belay -7 mins to establish belay and take in ropes, very good! (easy tree belay at top) 18:36 02:09 Client reached top of route - Nil finish 19:30 03:03 Abseil descent completed – -Night abseil off chains – guide descended ropes pulled – everyone down 1st safely 20:00 03:23 Reached campsite at saddle -Walk out in darkness (with head lamps) – well marked trail

Assessor comments:

Joe went off route on 1st and 2nd pitches which resulted in lost time and scrubby, dirty climbing… but he realised his mistake and downclimbed to get back on route. The route is quite complex with difficult to find protection.

Much improved belays – Joe tried to create higher belay focal point at all times. Overall protection was good throughout the route – definite improvement on his previous routes.

Joe came close to exposing himself to a factor 2 fall while leaving the 2nd pitch belay. He was reminded that it is critical to place protection and clip the rope above the relative position of the belay otherwise unacceptably high forces would be generated in a fall.

Some communication problems due to wind and loss of visual contact was noticeable at 3rd pitch belay. Would have been better to belay closer to edge of cliff rather than from high on ramp. Golden rule is to always seek a belay position from where visual contact and voice communication is possible (or improved).

Last pitch (pitch 6) was climbed late in the day with fading light… Joe found protection that was adequate however he did ‘run it out’ over the last 10m of the pitch with no pro. Joe advised me that the climbing was relatively easy and he felt secure at all times. It was a risk Vs benefit decision – he did not want his ‘client’ to climb the last pitch in darkness.

Assessment decision:

I am of the opinion that Joe Student (name of student) is suitable/unsuitable* for employment as a climbing guide (describe occupation) with the range of endorsements indicated.

*strike out words that do not apply

Assessor signature: I M Still The Best Printed name: I. M. Best Date: Today

Student statement: I agree with the events as described on this assessment document and I accept the assessment decision made by my assessor. I acknowledge that my knowledge and skills must be maintained on a regular basis in order to remain current. I further acknowledge that I am legally responsible for those persons who are under my direct control during activities that I conduct. Student signature: Joe Student

Printed name: Joe Student

Date: Today