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Analysis of the Accident on Air Guitar
Analysis of the accident on Air Guitar The Safety Committee of the Swedish Climbing Association Draft 2004-05-30 Preface The Swedish Climbing Association (SKF) Safety Committee’s overall purpose is to reduce the number of incidents and accidents in connection to climbing and associated activities, as well as to increase and spread the knowledge of related risks. The fatal accident on the route Air Guitar involved four failed pieces of protection and two experienced climbers. Such unusual circumstances ring a warning bell, calling for an especially careful investigation. The Safety Committee asked the American Alpine Club to perform a preliminary investigation, which was financed by a company formerly owned by one of the climbers. Using the report from the preliminary investigation together with additional material, the Safety Committee has analyzed the accident. The details and results of the analysis are published in this report. There is a large amount of relevant material, and it is impossible to include all of it in this report. The Safety Committee has been forced to select what has been judged to be the most relevant material. Additionally, the remoteness of the accident site, and the difficulty of analyzing the equipment have complicated the analysis. The causes of the accident can never be “proven” with certainty. This report is not the final word on the accident, and the conclusions may need to be changed if new information appears. However, we do believe we have been able to gather sufficient evidence in order to attempt an -
4000 M Peaks of the Alps Normal and Classic Routes
rock&ice 3 4000 m Peaks of the Alps Normal and classic routes idea Montagna editoria e alpinismo Rock&Ice l 4000m Peaks of the Alps l Contents CONTENTS FIVE • • 51a Normal Route to Punta Giordani 257 WEISSHORN AND MATTERHORN ALPS 175 • 52a Normal Route to the Vincent Pyramid 259 • Preface 5 12 Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey 101 35 Dent d’Hérens 180 • 52b Punta Giordani-Vincent Pyramid 261 • Introduction 6 • 12 North Face Right 102 • 35a Normal Route 181 Traverse • Geogrpahic location 14 13 Gran Pilier d’Angle 108 • 35b Tiefmatten Ridge (West Ridge) 183 53 Schwarzhorn/Corno Nero 265 • Technical notes 16 • 13 South Face and Peuterey Ridge 109 36 Matterhorn 185 54 Ludwigshöhe 265 14 Mont Blanc de Courmayeur 114 • 36a Hörnli Ridge (Hörnligrat) 186 55 Parrotspitze 265 ONE • MASSIF DES ÉCRINS 23 • 14 Eccles Couloir and Peuterey Ridge 115 • 36b Lion Ridge 192 • 53-55 Traverse of the Three Peaks 266 1 Barre des Écrins 26 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable 117 37 Dent Blanche 198 56 Signalkuppe 269 • 1a Normal Route 27 15 L’Isolée 117 • 37 Normal Route via the Wandflue Ridge 199 57 Zumsteinspitze 269 • 1b Coolidge Couloir 30 16 Pointe Carmen 117 38 Bishorn 202 • 56-57 Normal Route to the Signalkuppe 270 2 Dôme de Neige des Écrins 32 17 Pointe Médiane 117 • 38 Normal Route 203 and the Zumsteinspitze • 2 Normal Route 32 18 Pointe Chaubert 117 39 Weisshorn 206 58 Dufourspitze 274 19 Corne du Diable 117 • 39 Normal Route 207 59 Nordend 274 TWO • GRAN PARADISO MASSIF 35 • 15-19 Aiguilles du Diable Traverse 118 40 Ober Gabelhorn 212 • 58a Normal Route to the Dufourspitze -
Sunlight Peak Class 4 Exposure: Summit Elev
Sunlight Peak Class 4 Exposure: Summit Elev.: 14,066 feet Trailhead Elev.: 11,100 feet Elevation Gain: 3,000' starting at Chicago Basin 6,000' starting at Needleton RT Length: 5.00 miles starting at Chicago Basin 19 miles starting at Needleton Climbers: Rick, Brett and Wayne Crandall; Rick Peckham August 8, 2012 I’ve been looking at climbing reports to Sunlight Peak for a few years – a definite notch up for me, so the right things aligned and my son Brett (Class 5 climber), brother Wayne (strong, younger but this would be his first fourteener success) and friend Rick Peckham from Alaska converged with me in Durango to embark on a classic Colorado adventure with many elements. We overnighted in Durango, stocking up on “essential ingredients” for a two-night camp in an area called the Chicago Basin, which as you will see, takes some doing to get to. Durango, founded in 1880 by the Denver & Rio Grande Railway company, is now southwest Colorado’s largest town, with 15,000 people. Left to right: Brett, Rick, Wayne provisioning essentials. Chicago Basin is at the foot of three fourteeners in the San Juan range that can only be reached by taking Colorado’s historic and still running (after 130 years) narrow-gauge train from Durango to Silverton and paying a fee to get off with back-pack in the middle of the ride. Once left behind, the next leg of the excursion is a 7 mile back-pack while climbing 3000’ vertical feet to the Basin where camp is set. -
Bay Area Bouldering
Topo Excerpted From: Bay Area Bouldering The best guidebook for the Bay Area’s most classic problems. Available at the SuperTopo store: www.supertopo.com/topostore Bay Area Bouldering Bay Area Overview Map ������������� ���������� 5 � 99 � �� � ���������� �� � 101 ��������� �������� � ������� �� � ������ ���� 505 � � �� ��������� 80 � ���������� 1 �� ���������� 12 �� 80 �� ����� 101 12 ���� 50 ������ �� ��������� ��� 37 12 ��������� ������� 1 ��� ������ 80 5 99 �� �� �� �� �� �� ��� 80 ��������� �� ������� �������� 580 ������� 205 ����� 101 880 �� 99 280 1 �� �������� �� �� 101 9 5 17 �� ���������� ������ 152 5 ������� �������� 1 ������ �� 101 ��������� ���������� 4 B A Y A R E A BOULDERING: SUPERTOPOS Contents Introduction 9 East Bay/San Francisco When to Climb 9 Berkeley 90 Dining 10 Indian Rock 93 Bouldering Ratings 13 Mortar Rock 97 History 14 Little Yosemite 99 Remilard Park 99 North Coast Grizzly Peak 100 Salt Point 17 Glen Canyon 102 Fort Ross 18 Sea Crag 24 South Bay Twin Coves 25 Castle Rock 106 Super Slab 26 Castle Rock Boulders 112 River Mouth 30 Castle Rock Falls 115 Goat Rock 32 Goat/Billy Goat Rock 116 Pomo Canyon 40 Klinghoffers 117 Marshall Gulch 44 Indian Rock 119 Dillon Beach 45 Aquarian Valley 122 Skyline 128 North Bay Farm Hill 129 Stinson Beach 46 Panther Beach 130 Mickey’s Beach 52 Granite Creek 132 Ring Mountain 60 Mount Tamalpais 64 East of The Bay Marin Headlands 65 Rocklin 136 Squaw Rock 66 The Bar 137 Mossy Rock 67 Appendix Sugarloaf Ridge 68 More from SuperTopo 138 Putah Creek 76 About the Author 140 Vacaville 82 Index 141 5 FOR CURRENT ROUTE INFORMATION, VISIT WWW.SUPERTOPO.COM Warning. Climbing is an inherently dangerous sport in which severe injuries or death may occur. Relying on the information in this book may increase the danger. -
Conditioning: Why Go to the to Pack Light, Gym When You Just Pack Right Can Go Outdoors?
WWW.MOUNTAINEERS.ORG MARCH/APRIL 2011 • VOLUME 105 • NO. 2 MountaineerE X P L O R E • L E A R N • C O N S E R V E Conditioning: Why go to the To pack light, gym when you just pack right can go outdoors? Take your spring skiing to British Columbia’s backcountry inside Mar/Apr 2011 » Volume 105 » Number 2 9 How to best lighten your pack Enriching the community by helping people explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the 11 Sailing? Mountaineers? lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest. A carload of climbers said, why not? 18 B.C.’s best for spring skiing 11 Heading north? Check these lodges and huts 21 Train outdoors to get ready Why go to the gym when you can go to the beach? 24 Doing the PCT piece by piece This Foothills course is all about logistics 6 reaching OUT Mountaineers with sea legs Connecting the community to the outdoors 7 conservation currents 18 News about conservation and recreational access 14 OUR fRIENdS Goings on in the broader outdoor community 16 GEAR grist Making the turn from downhill to backcountry skiing 17 stepping UP Help prepare Kitsap Cabin for Earth Day! Best of British Columbia’s backcountry 26 bookMARkS Tasty trail food you don’t need to pack 24 27 PLAyGROUNd A place for kids to solve the puzzles of nature 28 CLIff notes New column looks at what’s up in the alpine 37 GO GUIdE Trips, outings, events, courses, seminars Taking on Washington’s Pacific Crest Trail DISCOVER THE MOUntaINEERS If you are thinking of joining — or have joined and aren’t sure where to The Mountaineer uses . -
Issue 001 September 09
Issue 001 September 09 Shauna Coxsey in the BBC’s at Cliff hanger in Sheffi eld, 2009. — Alex Messenger Th e UK Competition Climbing Newsletter from the BMC Competition Committee >> Here it is... the fi rst Competition Newsletter from the BMC Competition Committee Introduction All About Competitions... Here it is, the fi rst BMC Competition Newsletter from the BMC Competition Committee, ably compiled by British Team Managers, Climbing Wall Managers, British Team Members and the UK’s Competition Climbing Population. Th e aim of the newsletter is to keep you upto date not only with all UK Climbing Competitions but also keep you upto date with what the British Climbing Team is doing, not only on home ground, but the world >> climbing circuit aswell. Media, Judges, Crowd, Competitors… All enjoying the BBC’s at Cliff hanger in Sheffi eld. I would like to thank all the contributors for their articles and photos and Th e event will be screened on Sky Sports at the following times: Sep 07 - 20.00 Sky Sports especially Natalie Berry for all her hard work as the Assistant Editor for the Newsletter, Alex Messenger (BMC) for the majority of the photo’s and Xtra, Sep 08 - 03.30 Sky Sports 2, , Sep 08 - 08.00 Sky Sports 3, Sep 08 - 12.00 Sky Dave Macfarlane (Planet Fear) for the articles and photo’s he has supplied. Sports 2 and Sep 08 - 15.00 Sky Sports Xtra — Alex Messenger Well done to all who got the Newsletter this far and Good Luck to all the Competitors that represent Great Britain both at home and abroad. -
An Exploration of the Social World of Indoor Rock Climbing
WHO ARE CLIMBING THE WALLS? AN EXPLORATION OF THE SOCIAL WORLD OF INDOOR ROCK CLIMBING A Thesis by JASON HENRY KURTEN Submitted to the Office of Graduate Studies of Texas A&M University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF SCIENCE December 2009 Major Subject: Recreation, Park and Tourism Sciences WHO ARE CLIMBING THE WALLS? AN EXPLORATION OF THE SOCIAL WORLD OF INDOOR ROCK CLIMBING A Thesis by JASON HENRY KURTEN Submitted to the Office of Graduate Studies of Texas A&M University in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of MASTER OF SCIENCE Approved by: Co-Chairs of Committee, C. Scott Shafer David Scott Committee Members, Douglass Shaw Head of Department, Gary Ellis December 2009 Major Subject: Recreation, Park and Tourism Sciences iii ABSTRACT Who Are Climbing the Walls? An Exploration of the Social World of Indoor Rock Climbing. (December 2009) Jason Henry Kurten, B.B.A., Texas A&M University Co-Chairs of Advisory Committee: Dr. C. Scott Shafer Dr. David Scott This study is an exploratory look at the social world of indoor rock climbers, specifically, those at Texas A&M University. A specific genre of rock climbing originally created to allow outdoor rock climbers a place to train in the winter, indoor climbing has now found a foothold in areas devoid of any natural rock and has begun to develop a leisure social world of its own providing benefit to the climbers, including social world members. This study explored this social world of indoor rock climbing using a naturalistic model of inquiry and qualitative methodology, specifically Grounded Theory (Spradley, 1979; Strauss & Corbin, 2008). -
10 Climbing Areas in Crisis Page 8
VERTICAL TIMES The National Publication of Access Fund Winter 18/Volume 113 www.accessfund.org 10 Climbing Areas in Crisis page 8 CLIMB LIKE A LOCAL: COCHISE STRONGHOLD 5 WILLIAMSON ROCK ON PATH TO REOPENING 7 Protect America’s Climbing INNOVATING FOR SUSTAINABLE BOLT REPLACEMENT 12 AF Perspective It takes two flints to make a fire. But alongside the excitement and positivity was a common thread of concern: Our world-class climbing areas are “ – LOUISA MAY ALCOTT suffering from world-class impacts and problems. It’s ” becoming harder and harder to mitigate impacts from the ere’s a fun experiment: Throw a group of dedicated, growing number of climbers. While this has been a long- passionate climbers in a room and ask them, “How term battle, the problem is more acute than ever. So few of Hare we going to save our climbing areas?” our climbing areas are built or managed for the number of climbers using them today. I heard the same phrase again No, this isn’t Access Fund’s origin story (although it’s pretty and again: “Our climbing areas are being loved to death.” close). But it’s the premise behind Access Fund’s summits, trainings, and conferences, which we’ve been hosting for Our charge now is to love these areas back to life. And that more than 25 years. starts with getting real about the impacts, acknowledging the need for recreation infrastructure to protect these I went to my first Access Fund summit in 2009. It was in places, and bringing a whole heck of a lot more resources to Dr. -
Glacier Fact Sheet
Glacier Fact Sheet Glaciers can be hazardous due to unstable ice and cold temperatures. Falls-Crevasses (deep open cracks in the ice) can be hidden and seemingly solid ice can break without warning. Falling Materials-Rock adjacent to lateral moraines can fall without warning. Seracs (ice towers) are inherently unstable and pose a fall risk. Hypothermia-Body temperature drops to dangerous levels during prolonged exposure to cold temperatures. Frostbite-Tissue death associated with prolonged exposure to cold temperatures. Snow Blindness-Snow and ice can reflect UV light and cause burns to your cornea. Higher altitudes have higher amounts of UV light present. PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT Glacier glasses Cold weather clothing Crampons Mountaineering boots Gloves Helmet Harness and technical ropes PREPARATION AND TRAINING Glacier crossings require specialized training, ropes, and climbing gear for all members of your team. Do not attempt to cross glaciers without training or while traveling alone. Consider hiring an experienced guide familiar with glacier crossing techniques and the glacier in question. Prior to travel, identify the local emergency service’s search and rescue policy for the glacier in question. Identify your procedures for handling various emergencies and situations that would require you to abort the crossing. The University of Maryland does not have facilities to teach glacier skills or crevasse rescue, however, many professional organizations offer this type of training. It is recommended you take courses in: Crevasse Rescue Ice Climbing/Mountaineering Wilderness First Aid and/or First Responder EMERGENCY RESPONSE If you experience an emergency, call local authorities for guidance and assistance. Keep in mind, even if you are able to call for help, rescuers may not be able to reach you due to weather or location. -
Via Ferrata: a Short Introduction Giuliano Bressan, Claudio Melchiorri CAI – Club Alpino Italiano
Via Ferrata: A short introduction Giuliano Bressan, Claudio Melchiorri CAI – Club Alpino Italiano 1. Introduction In the last years, the number of persons climbing “vie ferrate” has rapidly increased, and this manner of approaching mountains is becoming more and more popular among mountaineers and hikers, in particular among young persons. The terms “via ferrata” and “sentiero attrezzato” (or equipped path) indicate that a set of fixed equipment (metallic ropes, ladders, chains, bridges, …) is installed along an itinerary in order to facilitate its ascension, guaranteeing at the same time a good margin of security. In this manner, also non extremely expert persons may have the opportunity to approach mountains and vertical walls that would be climbable, without this equipment, only by means of standard climbing techniques and equipment (i.e. rope, pitons, and so on). With this fixed equipment it is then possible to grant almost to everybody the emotion of altitudes and the excitement of vertical walls, without taking major risks and without being involved, possibly, in dangerous situations. Nevertheless, practicing “vie ferrate” should not be compared with the classical climbing activity. As a matter of fact, also considering the physical and psychological engagement necessary in any case to climb a “via ferrata” (some are very difficult from a technical and physical point of view), very different are the technical skills, the experience, the capabilities and the emotional control needed to face in a proper way any negative situation possibly occurring in a mountaineering activity. Nowadays, the term “via ferrata” has been internationally adopted, although in some countries they are also known as Klettersteig (this word indicates the specific karabiners to be used in this activity). -
2018/2019 Annual Report
Annual Report April 2018 – March 2019 Leighton Artist Studios, the Evamy Studio. Photo by Chris Amat. Annual Report 2018/19 I Banf Centre for Arts and Creativity Annual Report April 2018 — March 2019 Cover photo Banf Centre Campus. Photo by Kari Medig. Note to Reader Board of Governors of The Banf Centre (operating as Banf Centre for Arts and Creativity) (“Banf Centre” or “the Centre”) is a corporation that operates under the Post-Secondary Learning Act (Alberta). As mandated by the Ministry of Advanced Education, Banf Centre for Arts and Creativity is pleased to present this Annual Report on progress towards the goals and outcomes for 2018/2019 as detailed in the 2018-2021 Comprehensive Institutional Plan (CIP). Design for Dance 2018. Photo by Jessica Wittman. Annual Report 2018/19 1 Table of Contents 2 Accountability Statement 3 Management’s Responsibility for Reporting 4 Message from the President and CEO and the Chair of the Board of Governors 6 Operational Overview 8 Goals, Priority Initiatives, Expected Outcomes and Performance Measures 34 Financial and Budget Information 42 Research, Applied Research, and Scholarly Activities 44 Regional Stewardship, Foundational Learning, Underrepresented Learners 46 Internationalization 48 Capital Plan 52 Information Technology 55 Supporters 60 Consolidated Financial Statements 84 Governance 2 Banf Centre for Arts and Creativity Accountability Statement Banf Centre’s Annual Report for the year ended March 31, 2019 was prepared under the direction of Banf Centre’s Board of Governors (“the Board”) in accordance with the Fiscal Planning and Transparency Act and ministerial guidelines established pursuant to the Post-Secondary Learning Act. -
Rock Climbing Fundamentals Has Been Crafted Exclusively For
Disclaimer Rock climbing is an inherently dangerous activity; severe injury or death can occur. The content in this eBook is not a substitute to learning from a professional. Moja Outdoors, Inc. and Pacific Edge Climbing Gym may not be held responsible for any injury or death that might occur upon reading this material. Copyright © 2016 Moja Outdoors, Inc. You are free to share this PDF. Unless credited otherwise, photographs are property of Michael Lim. Other images are from online sources that allow for commercial use with attribution provided. 2 About Words: Sander DiAngelis Images: Michael Lim, @murkytimes This copy of Rock Climbing Fundamentals has been crafted exclusively for: Pacific Edge Climbing Gym Santa Cruz, California 3 Table of Contents 1. A Brief History of Climbing 2. Styles of Climbing 3. An Overview of Climbing Gear 4. Introduction to Common Climbing Holds 5. Basic Technique for New Climbers 6. Belaying Fundamentals 7. Climbing Grades, Explained 8. General Tips and Advice for New Climbers 9. Your Responsibility as a Climber 10.A Simplified Climbing Glossary 11.Useful Bonus Materials More topics at mojagear.com/content 4 Michael Lim 5 A Brief History of Climbing Prior to the evolution of modern rock climbing, the most daring ambitions revolved around peak-bagging in alpine terrain. The concept of climbing a rock face, not necessarily reaching the top of the mountain, was a foreign concept that seemed trivial by comparison. However, by the late 1800s, rock climbing began to evolve into its very own sport. There are 3 areas credited as the birthplace of rock climbing: 1.