“How do you suggest I best manage my time when it comes to choosing problems/routes during competitions?”

This is a big question with more than one correct answer. As a coach my mind is going haywire. “It depends on the time in the season, the competition format and location, and ultimately- the athlete.” The “correct answer” is to choose a strategy and time management plan that will help you reach your goal(s).

Before diving in, lets first distinguish between the two types of USA Climbing competitions that this might apply to:

1. Local competitions- USAC certified competitions during the regular season. These comps are usually redpoint format (3 hours to climb your hardest “x” amount of climbs) but there are some that are “onsight” format like the championship comps.

2. Championship competitions (Regionals, Divisionals, and Nationals)- These competitions are onsight format, which differs from bouldering to sport climbing season. In bouldering, an athlete will have 4 minutes to climb “x” amount of boulders (about 6). They have multiple attempts per boulder within the time limit. For sport climbing the athlete has one attempt with a time limit for an “x” number of routes (about 2-4).

For Championship competitions you don’t get to pick your routes or boulders. For these comps, time management is all about: 1. Reading climbs efficiently 2. Climbing efficiently

In sport climbing you get one attempt per route so climbing efficiently helps minimize pump, maximize performance, and ensures you won’t run out of time while on the wall. In bouldering, you get multiple attempts within the 4-minute time limit so calculating your rest times for attempts on each boulder problem and your rest times between each boulder is important and will vary from person to person and boulder to boulder.

The heart of the question seems to be directed toward local competition formats. Usually, you get 3 hours to climb your hardest 3 routes (Sport and Speed Series) or 5 boulder problems (Bouldering Series). As a coach I talk to my kids about developing a local comp strategy that helps them reach their goals. Climbers on the Boise Climbing Team develop plans where they outline their seasonal goals and competition goals (among others). An athlete’s competition goals should help them reach their BIG seasonal goal if it is well thought out. Here are some of the main strategies I help my climbers develop for local competitions:

1. Volume Climbing: This strategy is usually for athletes who are new to competition and their main goal for the competition is to have fun and get lots of exposure to local competitions and new routes. This athlete is usually only months old in climbing. Here’s a theoretical example of what this athletes’ goals might be: a. Seasonal goal: Climb V4 consistently b. Competition goals: i. Attend 2 local competitions in order to learn how competitions work ii. Climb boulders or routes that will help me grow as a climber

This athlete’s strategy would be to try to send a volume of challenging climbs (about 10 boulders or 5-6 routes). The goal would be to pick climbs that help: a. Expand this athlete’s understanding of movement across multiple styles b. Challenge their route reading and problem solving skills

This is great for newer climbers to the competition scene. They gain confidence because they’re usually sending lots of routes or boulder problems and they have the chance to climb on styles that might not be present in their home gym. It’s important as a coach to assist them in picking climbs at the right difficulty. If the climbs are too hard, they don’t’ learn much and might lose psych for comp climbing. If they’re too easy, then they don’t learn much. However, don’t steal the process of them trying to find routes or problems in the “sweet spot” for themselves. Helping them understand when, how long, and how to rest between attempts and between climbs is also important. This topic is huge and should probably be reserved for a separate discussion. Put shortly, 99.9% of kid climbers don’t rest long enough without a coach’s assistance.

2. Climb to Grow: This strategy is for athletes who have experience with competition climbing and their main focus is to work toward their seasonal and competition goals. Here’s a theoretical example of what this athletes’ goals might be: a. Seasonal goal: Climb V6 consistently and across all styles with a focus on overhanging and powerful climbs b. Competition goals: i. Attend regionals ii. Climb 5 boulder problems at ~V6 or harder at the local competitions (2 of which are overhanging and powerful)

When picking their climbs, this athlete would be primarily focused on becoming better climbers (not winning). Two of the climbs would focus on one of their weaknesses (steep, powerful climbing) and the others would be varied across styles. This directly relates to their ultimate goal as a climber: to improve in all styles at a V6 level or harder with a focus on overhangs. Picking 2-3 extra climbs might be helpful in case a climb proves particularly hard or easy. Again, part of their growth process is picking out these climbs for themselves. Don’t steal it from them! Again, there are so many opportunities to learn that will arise (resting, their mental status, etc.).

3. Climb to Win: This strategy is very similar to the “Climb to Grow” strategy. The main difference is the goal- to win! Winning doesn’t necessarily mean getting 1st place. It means climbing the “hardest” climbs possible for the highest score possible. Here’s a theoretical example of what this athletes’ goals might be: a. Seasonal goal: Qualify for Nationals! b. Competition goals: i. Divisionals- top 10 ii. Regionals- top 10 iii. Local competitions- climb the “hardest” boulders/ routes possible for a max potential score.

When picking climbs, this athlete would be primarily focused on finding climbs that fit their style and/or that were relatively “easy” for a high point value. As a coach, I try to challenge athletes whose goals for local competitions are to score as high as possible, especially if they want to do well in championship competitions. Here’s why: This strategy has a tendency to keep the climber in their comfort zone. As noted above, they typically only climb on climbs that are their style. At the very best, they’re going to get better at what they are already best at. It’s very unlikely that they improve on their weaknesses. In championship competitions, you don’t get to pick your climbs so well rounded climbers usually do best. This strategy doesn’t always incentivize growth as a well rounded climber. Nevertheless, playing to “win” can be fun and rewarding and this is a perfectly acceptable strategy if that’s your goal.

4. Championship Preparation: This strategy is for climbers whose main focus is to prepare for championship competitions. Here’s a theoretical example of what this athletes’ goals might be: a. Seasonal goal: Qualify for Nationals! b. Competition goals: i. Divisionals- top 10 ii. Regionals- top 10 iii. Local competitions- “onsight” 6 boulders around the difficulty of what I’ll find at Divisionals

This athlete might need help from their coach when picking their climbs. If the coach picks these climbs, then it allows the athlete to have a more “realistic” onsight practice. Depending on the athlete, it might also be useful to have them pick their climbs. It challenges the athlete to pick climbs at the right difficulty and a coach can get a good idea of how hard the athlete thinks their routes or boulders will be at Divisionals (or any other championship competition). A variety of styles is important when picking these climbs since you’ll see a variety at championship comps. Once the climbs are picked and the climber is adequately warmed up, you can organize the onsight practice like this:

a. Bouldering: Give the athlete about 5 minutes per boulder. This time can be budged a little based on how crowded it is. Some comps might be so crowded that this doesn’t work very well. Resting for about 5-15 minutes is best. In championship comps you get 4 minutes to climb and 4 minutes to rest so the longer the rest, the less specific it will be to those championship competitions. However, you can put them on harder, more challenging boulders if they have more rest. Depending on the athlete and time of season, this could be best.

b. Sport and Speed: Give the athlete some reasonable time limit per route. They get one attempt. They should make it count! Similar to the rest protocol mentioned above, the longer the rest: the less specific to championship competitions it will be but the harder climbs the athlete can climb.

After their onsight practice and a solid rest, the climber can get back on the climbs and learn from their mistakes.

There are lots of other goals, strategies, and time management plans that would be appropriate or “correct”. The take away point is to choose a strategy that is ultimately going to help you reach your goals.

Coach Brannon Frank Boise Climbing Team