A Young Person’s Guide to First published in August 2011 by City Travel Review, Inc. All words and photos that appear in this guide are property of the respective writers and photographers. Copyright © 2011 2 Bienvenidos to Madrid!

Madrid is a fantastic city and well worth a visit. Whether you are staying for a while or just make a quick stop. This guide will help you get as much as possible out of it as you will hopefully find what you’re looking for and make it a great stay!

This guide is the result of our three weeks together during the hottest time in Madrid! Fourteen of us came from all over Europe for the ‘City Travel Review’ project. We set out to work together to write a guide showing everything Madrid has to offer, specifically focusing on young people like ourselves. It was a fantastic time with excursions to neighbouring places such as Toledo, pub-crawls through the centre and even a bullfight! Although we all chose our own subjects to write about, we worked together to give you a complete overview of everything that there is to do in Madrid. Eating and drinking, palaces and museums, fashion and sports. Whatever you’re looking for and all Madrid has to offer, we will guide you to it.

Enjoy your stay in Madrid!

Your City Travel Review Team 2011 Contents Page 6-10 Introduction - Top things to see and do - Tips for Tourists Page 11-30 Experience Madrid - Overview of Madrid - Accommodation for young people - Public - Different ways to experience Madrid - One Day in Madrid - Learning Spanish - Toledo Page 31-49 History and Culture - History of Madrid - Historical monuments and architecture - Palacio Real and Royal Theatre - Museums - Spanish Artists - Street Art - Literature

4 Contents Page 50-66 Things to Do - Flamenco - Shopping and Fashion - Nightlife - Live Music Bars - Parks and Leisure Time Page 67-76 Food and Drink

Page 77-92 People and Life - Spanish Lifestyle - Siesta - Sports - Bullfighting - Famous People of Madrid Page 93 Meet the City Travel Review Madrid Team 2011 Disfrutenla! (Enjoy5!) Top things to do in 10 Madrid

See a bullfight Perhaps the most controversial ‘must see’ attraction in Madrid, but also one of the most fascinating. For those who 1 can look past the barbaric nature of the sport, a bullfight offers a unique insight into Spanish culture and tradition. As the war between animal cruelty activists and Spanish traditionalists wages over whether or not the bullfights should continue, (the sport has been banned in and the rest of north Catalonia) it may not be long until bullfights are history. Not for the faint hearted, but most definitely a ‘once in a lifetime’ experience and well worth the visit. Eat Tapas Tapas bars are abundant throughout Madrid, the secret is finding a good one. Look for locals, dirty floors (yes! this is a giveaway of some of the best bars in Madrid) and anywhere swarming with people. The queues for the bar are well worth the wait for authentic local Tapas, chorizo, Spanish omelette and anchovies are some of the most common tapas. As the barmen usually pick and choose what they serve you, there is little choice over what you end up with so picky eaters beware, however for genuine 2 Spanish food (without the frills) visiting a local Tapas bar is a must.

Take an open topped bus tour This is one of the easiest and quickest ways to see a lot of Madrid in a short amount of time- perfect if you’re not in the city for long but want to see some of the most renowned sights Madrid has to offer. Frequent departures from numerous locations make the hop on-hop off bus effortless, as opposed to trawling the streets in the hot weather you can see the Palacio Real, Prado museum, Real Madrid stadium and several other notable locations from the comfort of an air-conditioned bus, with the option of picking and choosing where you wish to visit. Several companies who offer 3 the service, and it is possible to jump on a bus from the bottom of Gran Via- however, for those looking for a guided tour and the ability to book in advance the Panoramic Madrid Tour offers a fantastic tour which is also surprisingly affordable. 6 Try Churros con chocolate As an avid food lover, and general chocolate enthusiast, Churros con chocolate - a traditional Spanish delicacy- was one of the most 4 memorable parts of my time in Madrid, and most definitely a legitimate reason for returning. For those of you who have never heard of churros, the best way to describe them would be almost like a deep fried donut, served with a cup of hot chocolate sauce. Traditionally had as breakfast, it is not uncommon to see Spaniards with an order of Churros con chocolate on their way home from a night out. Chocolateria San Ginés at Pasadizo de San Ginés in a passageway close to San Ginés church, west of the is one of the most famous places to find Churro’s, open 24 hours a day there’s no excuse not to make a visit!

Take a ride on the Teleferico Located at the heart of the Casa de Campo, the teleferico has been around for over 40 years offering an incredibly skyline view of Madrid as well as a fantastic way to escape the city and relax in one of the oldest parks in Madrid (the Casa de Campo was once the royal hunting grounds and is now preserved as an endless park space used for cycling and walking) despite the queues for a ride, the 4 euro return trip will take you across Casa de Campo with an automated guided tour in either English or 5 Spanish. The teleferico reaches a height of 40 metres and is an affordable and unique way to see the city. Stroll through El Rastro market El Rastro market is legendary in Madrid, on the surface, the market seems to 6 be like any generic European flea market- cheap jewellery, fedoras, tourist t-shirts and guitar playing street performers, however dig a little deeper and you will find cobbled streets filled with priceless antiques. From record players to Louis Vuitton trunks, its easy to see where El Rastro got its reputation is one of the most unique markets in Europe. The vintage accessories and paintings seem never ending and each shop seems more impressive than the last- a word of warning however, these antiques are not cheap! Whilst it is possible to pick up old cameras and records for a few euro- many of the more unique antiques are in the thousands, nevertheless El Rastro is well worth a visit, even just for a look. 7 Visit the Prado museum It’s impossible to read a guide book and not read about the Prado, and after visiting it, it’s easy to see why. Housing work by Velázquez, Goya, Raphael, Rubens, and Bosch, the Prado’s collections are as extensive as they are impressive. It would take days to see everything the Prado has 7 to offer, which is why I would recommend planning your trip around specific paintings you’re eager to see. Visit the Royal Palace Madrid’s royal palace is considered the most beautiful building in Madrid, and the largest. It’s easy to see why it’s such a popular tourist destination, with art, tapestries and several exhibitions as well as insight into the lives of the royals its one of the grandest and most interesting places to visit. Open to the public almost all year round and free on Wednesdays, there’s no excuse not to visit! 8 Go on a Pub Crawl This is one of the things we recommend to you in order to experience different bars and clubs on the same night out – and to enjoy a proper 9 Spanish-style noche! A few hostels organise pub crawls, therefore they can differ a bit from one another. A very nice and popular one is organised by a company called MADride, which includes various hostels so you can meet different people. It usually starts at 11pm from the Bear and the Tree Statue in Plaza del Sol and stops at several bars along the way, usually ending at a club or sometimes a salsa bar. The pub crawl stops at 5 different places in total and the route varies, usually including a club during the weekend. The total price for this pub crawl, with one shot included in each place you stop, is 10 euros for the first time you join it, 5 euros the second time, and free from the third time on! In general, to join a pub crawl you can ask your hostel or just go to the Bear Statue in Puerta del Sol between 11 and 11.20 pm where For madrilenos, it’s an historical symbol of you can easily find people offering you the growth and origins of their city; for organised pub crawls and get started. tourists, it means just one thing: pub crawls.

Watch Flamenco Spain’s famous passionate dance and live music performance that you cannot miss! Generally considered to be the dance of the gypsies, this 18th century Andalusia dance is still performed in the traditional way: singing, dancing, hand clapping or pounding wooden sticks, and playing the guitar. It is really worth seeing artists performing it, as you will immerse yourself completely in the authentic atmosphere, which really conveys the passion and 10 emotion of such a vibrant culture. Karina Stoltz and Francesca Bonetti

8 Top Tips For Tourists

As Madrid is a city which attracts thousands of tourists throughout the whole year, a few useful tips will be really helpful - especially for those who are visiting the Spanish capital for the first time. There are hundreds of things to say about the Spanish culture which can be found in Madrid. However, the following are the most essential tips and distinctive features of Spanish people that might catch your attention. These are often very different from the habits of tourists, and therefore they will be useful to know in advance.

Whilst many cultures queue and wait to be matter. So even if Madrid is an extended capital acknowledged, forming a proper queue is quite city, here you do not get the impression that unusual in Spain. In fact, Spanish people tend people are stressed or in a hurry. Here you can to mass together and therefore jump the always find some very traditional corner where queue. This happens in shops, bars, bus and the common and widely-known Spanish spirit train stops, and all public buildings where a lot of being friendly and laid back is preserved. of people tend to gather together with no particular order, and those who are in more of a As in many other tourist cities, pickpockets are hurry or simply louder get served first. Unlike always waiting in ambush. This happens people belonging to many other cultures who especially in the most crowded and tourist will stand in a queue, quietly and patiently, in areas of the city such as squares and main Spain they will strike up a conversation. streets, as well as on and Therefore tourists, and in particular those who shopping areas. are more used to forming an orderly queue, should learn how to play the game and win Asking Spanish people for directions may be during their stay in Madrid! tricky and confusing for tourists, as Spanish people seem to have a different and particular The importance of direct contact is another conception of distance! It is very likely that peculiarity of the Spanish culture, where social when you ask local people for directions, you interaction is fundamental. This includes the will be told “Está justo al lado” (“It is just round local habit of introducing yourself and saying the corner”), and after a while you may realise goodbye by kissing on the cheek and very the place is actually far away! Or it could be the often touching whilst talking as a sign of other way round: you might be told a place is approval and establishing friendly contact (i.e. too far to walk, when the place was quite close touching you on the shoulder). and definitely walkable! The atmosphere when you go shopping is of a continuous social network, where people have Leaving tips is a totally personal choice. time for each other and speed does not really Tourists may decide to leave tips, especially if 9 Madrid Airport Transfers

There are many possible ways to travel from and to Madrid Bajaras International Airport. In par - ticular, the best options for young and dynamic tourists are: Bus Exprés Aeropuerto (Airport Express), a 24-hour service which has only 3 stops after the airport: O'Donell, Plaza de Cibeles and Atocha (this last stop only during the daytime hours between 6 am and 11.30pm). Atocha is the main train station, with connections to the south and east. It is also close to the main bus station.The buses run every 15 minutes during the day and every 35 at night, the journey takes approximately 40 minutes. Tickets cost €2 and may be bought on board. There are stops at terminals T1, T2, T3 and T4. This new bus service stops more centrally than the metro and runs 24 hours a day. However, the metro leaves slightly more often and may be quicker, depending on where you want to go. To download the Airport Express information sheet in PDF visit: http://www.gomadrid.com/transport/Airport-Express.pdf. Tip: If taking several bus journeys, save money with the Madrid Travel Pass, which allows you to travel on any Metro, bus or suburban train, all included in the price of just €5, making it a great way to save money on public transport. With this pass, it is not necessary to pay the airport surcharge. Metro Madrid's Barajas Airport has Metro stations in Terminal T1, T2, T3 and the newer Terminal 4. Trains leave every 5 minutes from 6.00am to 2.00am. goes straight to the newly reformed Metro station, with a journey time of just 12 minutes. Here you will find a connection with over 50 other stations. The price of a single journey to or from the airport is currently €2, which includes a €1 supplementary airport charge. If you already possess a valid Metro ticket, you can simply purchase the airport supplementary ticket for €1.

Taxi This can be a convenient option for some, but expensive for others, and difficulties may arise due to language problems. Pick one up from outside the airport and make sure it has a white taxi with a red stripe on its door - any other car is illegal and you will almost certainly get ripped off. Agree the price before you set off and expect to pay about €25 to any central location.

Car Rental All the major car rental companies are available in Barajas airport. Hertz, Europcar, Avis, etc. all have offices between arrival halls 1 and 2 in Terminal 1. Costs may vary; however, it is often cheaper to reserve your car rental before you arrive. 10 Experience Madrid

11 THE MANY FACES OF MADRID ... Madrid is divided into a number of different ‘barrios’, each with its own distinct character. Sol is the heart of the city with the other areas clustered around it. A short description of barrios which are interesting for tourists is given here as an orientation for first time visitors.

SoL The Puerta del Sol is the very heart of the city and its most important square. This lively area full of shops, bars and tourist attractions should be first stop for any visitor. On the square itself stands the bear statue which is the official symbol of the city. Other must-sees in the area are Plaza Mayor, Gran Via, Plaza de España and C/ Alcala. Casa de Correos

LaS auSTRiaS and La LaTina The oldest part of the city with many small streets and ‘plazas’. It is also famous for having many good tapas bars, plus the Sunday morning flea market ‘El Rastro’.

LaVaPiES Lavapies is Madrid’s most multicultural neighborhood. Despite the many incidents of petty crimes in the area, no visitor should miss the experience of its characterful streets and exotic food. 12 huERTaS and SanTa ana Known as the place where many authors lived, it is still Madrid’s most theatrical area. The streets are are pretty and around Plaza Santa Ana there is plentiful nightlife.

PaSEo dEL PRado Madrid grandest Boulevard runs from Atocha to Plaza de Cibeles, and the Cibeles fountain is an iconic symbol for Marid. The Paseo is lined with the many important museums, such as the Prado and Thyssen.

RETiRo Madrid’s largest park. The park contains the Estanque, a boating lake, the Palacio Cristal (Glass Palace), and is a popular destination for an evening walk or daytime siesta.

SaLaManCa Just north of Retiro, this is one of Madrid’s most elegant and expensive areas with many designer shops and upscale restaurants.

ChuECa This lively neighborhood north of Sol is now the gay and lesbian area of the city and the centre of Madrid’s club-fashion scene, trendy and adventurous.

GRan Via Designed to emulate the grand boulevards of and New York, this is now Madrid’s main shopping street. At the western end is Plaza de España, a large square with a Cervantes monument and flanked by high rise buildings.

MaLaSana and CondE duquE Quiet residential neighbourhood north of Plaza de España with some interesting museums. Bars and clubs offer entertainment for those who like it less frantic than in Chueca. Plaza de España aurelie Crombé 13 Accommodation

Madrid can be an expensive place to stay; with countless hotels as well as a huge hostel market, there is something for everyone. This guide is focusing on hostels as there are more than enough to give you a wide choice, and it is sometimes difficult to know which ones are best for your needs without external recommendation.

When booking hostel accommodation it is best to use either www.hostelworld.com or www.hostelbookers.com, as these are the two best- known booking agents online. Hostel World charge a booking fee and therefore Hostel Bookers will always be 8.7% cheaper, although if you’re looking for a specific hostel be sure to check both as some may appear on only one of the sites. Overleaf is a list of recommended hostels, their facilities and general atmosphere:

14 Equity Point Calle de la Cruz 5, 28012 Madrid. Metro - Sol T: +34 93 231 20 45: Bookings and modifications T: +34 91 531 01 30: Reception Website: http://www.equity-point.com/en/hostels-madrid/equity-point- madrid/general-information-madrid-hostel.html Email: [email protected] Price per night: From €15.75 - €23.00 in 5, 4 or 3 bed dorms. Bright, clean and welcoming hostel. Reliable as it is part of a chain with branches in other European cities. One of the best locations around the corner from the central plaza Puerta del Sol. Common area, free internet, no curfew, 24hr reception and an information desk with activities such as a pub crawl and free sangria every night! Good for: reliability, partying, location, price.

Los amigos “Sol” Backpackers hostel Arenal 26 4° Izq, 28013 Madrid. Metro - Sol T: +34 91 559 24 72 Website: http://losamigoshostel.com/indexe.html Price per night: €17 dorm + shared bathroom, €19 dorm + private bathroom Really friendly hostel, comfortable with common area, spacious dorms and clean bathrooms. Large kitchen with essentials provided, breakfast included and suggested recipes on the wall! Great location, on a very main central street a few minutes from Sol. Good for: location, space, atmosphere.

Pop hostel C/Espiritu Santo, 18 – 1a planta. Metro – Tribunal. T: +34 91 522 86 63 Website: www.pophostel.com Email: reservas@ pophostel.com Price per night: €14 to €15 for 14, 6 or 4 bed dorms, €21 for private double room. Very large hostel, lots of international people. Good common area, kitchen and sitting room with television. Internet connection, although not always working. Good location in the trendy Malasaña district, but a bit further from the main . Good for: meeting people, friendly atmosphere, good rooms and helpful staff. 15 Posada de huertas Huertas 21, 28014 Madrid. Metro – Anton Martín T: +34 91 429 5526 Website: http://www.posadadehuertas.com/ Email: [email protected] Price per night: €20 for 10 bed dorm, €21 for 8 bed dorm. Always single sex dorms. The International Youth Hostel in Madrid; each bed comes with a plug socket – very useful! Kitchen and washing services available. Great location – Huertas area has many bars and clubs for going out. Always a young crowd. 24hr reception, luggage storage, internet access and air conditioning. Good for: partying (pub crawl organised every night), central location, meeting young people and students.

RC Miguel Ángel Residencia Comunitaria & Casa de huéspedes San José Plaza de Celenque n.1, 4 Izq, Madrid. Metro – Sol. (Book through Hostelworld.com) Price per night: From €18 to €21 for 4, 6 or 8 bed dorms. Two hostels in the same building next door to each other, used a lot by Spanish visitors to Madrid. Calm atmosphere, run by a really friendly and helpful family. Internet, good shower facilities, breakfast, air conditioning, kitchen facilities. Good For: relaxed visit to Madrid, location, meeting Spanish people.

Mad hostel Calle de la Cabeza 24, 28012, Madrid. Metro – Anton Martín T: +34 91 506 48 40 Website: http://www.madhostel.com/ Email: [email protected] Price per night: €19 to €23 for 10, 6 or 4 bed dorms, shared and ensuite bathrooms Fairly new hostel near Centro and Sol area. Breakfast, sheet, lockers included. Wireless internet and free internet access. No curfew. Good for: location, partying, facilities included. By Amanda Green 16 Public Transport in Madrid

Metro A sure way to save money in Madrid, if you like being autonomous, is by visiting through the public transport network. With its 12 Metro lines (plus the Ópera-Príncipe Pío Branch Line), 3 tramways and 216 bus lines, not counting suburban lines, virtually no point of the city and around it is too far away to visit.

If you like going out at night, you can count on 38 nocturnal lines, while the Metro is open (with a few exceptions) from 6.00 a.m. to 1.30 a.m. every day of the year. A most important Metro line is the 8, which brings you directly to Barajas airport. Among the bus lines which might be interesting to use for a visit, we recommend , that brings you to the city centre, and line 27, passing among other things the Prado Museum and Santiago Bernabéu stadium.

The fares are quite cheap, compared to other European capitals. The single ticket for the urban area is €1. You can also buy a 10-travel ticket, which will cost you €9.30. It is valid on the whole bus network, on the whole Metro network and on tramway 1. An interesting alternative is the Tourist Travel Pass, that will cost you €6 for a day in the urban area. See also “The Many Ways of Experiencing Madrid”.

For the airport ticket, there is a €1 surcharge.

Cercanías network The short-distance rail network in Madrid consists of 9 lines. The main starting point is Atocha station, but if you plan a tour, just check if there is some other station closer to you. It is the best way to reach places of high touristic interest such as or Alcala de Henares, but on Renfe website you can also find a variety of promotions, such as “Tren + Museo de Cera” or “Madrid cultural axis”, with a tour of the cultural heritage between Atocha and Nuevos Ministerios (Prado, Reina Sofia, Archeological Museum...).

useful websites Consorcio Transportes Madrid: www.ctm-madrid.es Metro de Madrid: www.metromadrid.es Bus network: www.emtmadrid.es Cercanias: http://www.renfe.com/viajeros/cercanias/madrid/index.html 17 Special Transport

Public transport in Madrid doesn't mean only Metro and everyday buses. It means also an attentive eye towards tourists and to whoever intends to visit the area. This means specific services for specific needs. In our article “The Many Ways of Experiencing Madrid”(next page) we will meet the Tourist Bus, which brings the tourist in a tour of the city with a choice of two routes, historic and modern. We'll see now two other special services, El Autobus del Zoo and El Tren de la Fresa. El Autobus del Zoo

This is a special service that EMT, the bus company, started in Summer 2010. It runs from the end of April till the end of September, and brings you to the Zoo-Aquarium from Casa de Campo Metro station. It is active on weekends and holidays. Casa de Campo is a huge parkland just two kilometres away from Plaza de Espana. It includes a boating area on the lake, cycle tracks, walking areas, cafes, the teleferico, zoo and the parque de atraciones. The zoo is a large park hosting animals of all sorts, from dolphins to pandas.

More information www.emtmadrid.es www.zoomadrid.com www.lacasadecampo.net El Tren de la Fresa

We have just seen a service running during Summer. We're going to see now a service available only at the end of Spring and (roughly) at the beginning of Autumn. El Tren de la Fresa, literally The Strawberry Train, runs on weekends from the end of May to the end of June, and then (for 2011) from September 10 to October 23. If you plan to make a tour to Aranjuez (which you should, by the way) and happen to be around in one of these periods, this could be an exquisite way to travel. The €28 ticket might look expensive, but it includes:

- Return trip in the Historic Train. - Strawberries offered by hostesses dressed in period costume. - Theatre on board. - Transfer from the train station to the monumental area in air-conditioned coach. - Visit to the Royal Palace (guided) and to the Faluas Museum (free). - 50% discount at Museo Taurino (€1.50).

El Tren de la Fresa was born in 1984 to celebrate the route of the railroad which was the first in Madrid and the second in the Peninsula. In all these years, its wooden cars, pulled by its historic locomotive, have transported thousands of travelers offering a unique experience that combines entertainment and culture. Beware, though: trains don't leave from a conventional station, but from the Museo del Ferrocarril, and there is only one leaving, at 10 a.m. If you miss it, you'll have to wait till the next day or, worse, the next week. So be punctual. And enjoy the strawberry tour.

More information: www.museodelferrocarril.org By Selene Verri 18 The many ways of experiencing Madrid Thought it was all Metro stations, tour buses and taxis? Think again... tapas bar. Furthermore, it is available in combination with the Tourist Travel Pass or the Madrid tourist bus (see below).

Price: Between €32 and €85, depending on duration Buy from : Tourism Centre Madrid, airport, railway station, some hotels and travel agencies or online at www.madridcard.com.

Tourist Travel Pass Madrid Tourist Bus This travel pass allows you to With a hop-on, hop-off bus pass you can visit Madrid’s most use all public transport important sights via two routes in a very relaxing way. On the services in a certain region for “historical route” you will pass the Royal Court, the famous street an unlimited number of Gran Via with its buildings in varied architectural styles and other journeys within a valid time buildings and places like the Plaza Mayor or the Puerta del Sol. While period. enjoying the “modern route” you will pass by high-class buildings in Serrano Street, new neighbourhoods like Barrio Salamanca and Price: Between €6 and €50, different residential zones. The buses pass the different bus stops depending on duration and zone around the city every 20 minutes, and the average duration of each Buy from: Regional Transport route is 70-80 minutes. Consortium Offices, all Underground stations, tourist attractions, at some Price: €17.50 (1 day) and €22 (2 days) tobacconist’s shops and news stands, and www.esmadrid.com. hours: 10 a.m. – 7 p.m. Buy from: The bus itself, Tourism Centre, or ww.emtmadrid.com. Walking Madrid Card stadium of Real Madrid) and We recommend you This sightseeing pass not only the Bullring, discounts in the experience the city by foot as gives you access to over 50 city’s main stores, restaurants, central Madrid is definitely museums and monuments but clubs, bars and shows and walkable. You can be also includes guided tours much more. You get a independent, stop where you through Madrid, a visit to the guidebook, a helpful city map want, enjoy a nice spot for a Bernabéu Stadium (the football and an invitation to a typical few minutes and always have a 360 degree view. The weather 19 is usually good and after all hours: different times between 10 While passing Madrid’s famous walking is inexpensive, a.m. – 8 p.m. sights, walking down medieval Buy from: Tourism Centre Madrid; ecological and healthy. streets, across majestic squares www.esmadrid.com. Guided tours and through 1200 years of Madrid Tourist Board’s history, you not only get to see "DISCOVER MADRID" Madrid and learn more about programme includes guided its history, you are also tours in seven different entertained along the way. languages which run the whole These young, charming and year round. Walking tours dedicated guides work on a bring you to different tips-only basis. neighbourhoods (e.g. Chueca), cover key sights like the The free tours start in front of the tourist information at Plaza Mayor Palacio Royal or La Puerta del everyday at 11 a.m. (in Spanish) and Sol, show you some of the 4 p.m. (in English). You do not have city’s countless churches or let to book the tour but simply can show you plunge into Madrid’s up 10 – 15 minutes before at the dramatic history. meeting point. There is also a free guided walking tour organized by www.newmadrid-tours.com. Price: €3.90 (for walking tours, bicycle tours and skate tours) Sandeman’s new Europe Ltd . And now for the special ways to see Madrid... If you are not that big a fan of walking, do not have much time or are looking for a unique and exciting experience, there are many different ways to visit Madrid and make the best out of your stay in Spain’s glorious capital!

Visiting Madrid with the GoCar GoCar Guided allowes you high flexiblity. There are planned tours, Tours however, you decide what you Have you ever wished to have would like to see, in what a talking car as your tour order, what to skip and where guide? A trusty co-pilot on to stop for photos, to grab three wheels that knows the some food or stay for a meal. city like a local? Than you You can rent your car by the should try the GoCar. Using hour or all day. Attention: a GPS technology, it indicates valid driving license (car or where to drive and tells you a motorcycle) is required! lot about Madrid’s buildings, (English, Spanish, Catalan, the history and the culture. French, German and Italian) (+34) 915 59 45 35 This humorous little yellow car and offers space for two 10 a.m. – 7 p.m, in summertime speaks six different languages people. between 10 a.m. – 9. p.m.; www.gocartours.es. 20 Biking Organised There are several ways to visit tour with a Madrid by bike, for example, by joining one of the guided bike classic car tours by Bike Rental Madrid. Another fun way to see Spain’s They last around three hours capital city is by booking a and take you along cycling classic car like the Citroën 2CV paths, pedestrian zones and or the Dyane 6. SORTUR, a through parks. Get to know company offering tours with Madrid’s must-see sights but these cars, decided to use two also uncover hidden gems. You types of Citroen, as this car left can afford to be spontaneous; an important foot print in just show up at the meeting Spain’s history. Since 1958, the point and join the tour. The PSA Peugeot Citroen has been guided tour is in English and producing several types of the starts from March to November Citroen in the Galicias port of every day at 11 a.m. in front of Segway tours Vigo. The cars used by SORTUR the bike shop trixi.com in the Glide along on a nearly are completely refurbished and Calle Jardines 12. noiseless, two-wheeled, self- in perfect condition. You can balancing electric vehicle and book them with a chauffeur If you prefer to be more enjoy the city. Sounds and concentrate solely on independent, rent a bike and complicated? Don’t fear - Madrid’s beautiful views. Or explore the city on your own. normally it takes between 10- get a special kick out of driving Bikes are too boring? Well, why 20 seconds to learn to become by taking over the driver’s job. not trying a kickbike? This fun stable and only a few minutes Depending on the tour you vehicle (a combination more to move around, turn, book, you can enjoy Madrid’s between a bike and a scooter) accelerate and stop. On this historical or modern locations rides like a bike, and is as rather more exciting than within one or two hours, see simple to use as a scooter. informative tour you will pass the city by night, or even take a Soon, you will also be able to Madrid’s most important mini road-trip to a place see trixis in the streets of sights, enjoy a coffee or a outside of Madrid (e.g. Madrid. These two person refreshment during the tour Chinchón, El Atazar or El three-wheel taxi will offer you and get a photo CD as a Escorial). an entertaining way of souvenir. discovering famous sights and (+34) 679 40 62 43 pretty streets. Attention: Reservations are only [email protected] possible via the website, a deposit of Metro station: Plaza de España Calle de los Jardines 12 €15 is required and the tours are only www.sortur.es. (+34) 915 23 15 47 available in English. Metro station: Gran Vía; www.trixi.com (+34) 659 82 44 99 www.madsegs.com.

21 Teleferico ride, a 2.5 km-long journey at plan on staying in the Casa de 40m above ground. Within 11 Campo, the ride in itself is an (Madrid’s minutes you will travel from experience you should not the heart of Madrid to its green miss! cable car) lung, the Casa de Campo. Views are great and an audio Paseo del Pintor Rosales s/n See Madrid from a bird’s eye guide (available in English, (+34) 915 41 11 18 perspective and rediscover the Spanish and French) describes Metro station: Argüelles Prices: €3.70 (one way), €5.35 city from the sky! Yes, this is passing sights in a fun and (return ticket) possible during your cable car amusing way. Even if you don’t nicole Grab

22 AA WWaallkkiinngg TToouurr ooff MMaaddrriidd

Madrid’s centre has a manageable size, and although no one can see all the main sites in one day, it is possible to cover quite a number of them if you are willing to walk a bit. The itinerary below suggests a round-trip through the centre that includes some of the most beautiful streets and Plazas, as well as museums and the Palace.

1. Start the day at the Puerta de Alcala, and with a walk in the Parque de Retiro, Madrid’s largest park. Don’t miss the Palacio de Cristal, the Palacio de Velazquez and the pond.

2. A short distance away is the , one the world’s finest art museums.

3. After visiting the museum, walk up the Paseo del Prado, Madrid’s main boulevard, to the Plaza de Cibeles. The marble fountain in the centre of the Plaza is an iconic symbol of Madrid.

4.Walk down C/ Alcala, one of the oldest and most beautiful streets in the city.

5. You will reach Puerta de Sol, the very heart of Madrid, which contains both ‘kilometro cero’ and the clock that sets the exact time in Spain. Also a popular place for public meetings and demonstrations.

6. Walking up C/ Preciados you will reach Gran Via.

7. Walk down Gran Via, a lively shopping street, until you reach Plaza Espana, where you can see the Cervantes Monument, the Torre de Madrid and Edificio Espana.

8. Cross the Plaza to reach the Jardines de Ferraz, and visit the Templo de Debod, an original Egyptian temple transferred here in 1968. From the gardens you have nice views over the city and the Palacio Real.

9.Walk south on C/ Bailen to the Jardines De Sabatini, a small ornate park next to the Palace, and the Plaza de Oriente, the elegant square between the Palacio Real and the Teatro Real. 23 10. Visit the Palacio Real, the official residence of the King of Spain, which is partially open to visitors

11. Next to the Palacio is the Catedral de Nuestra Senora de la Almudena.

12. Around the corner you can see the Muralla Arab, remains of the original Muslim city wall.

13. Cross C/ Bailen again and walk west through the Barrio La Latina, the oldest area of Madrid, popular today for the number of good tapas bars and the Rastro, the famous flea market.

14. Walk up C/ Estudios and C/ Cuchilleros until you reach the Plaza Mayor, the former market place built in Castilian baroque style.

15. Leaving Plaza Mayor on the south-eastern edge, walk down C/ Bolsa and C/ Huertas until you reach Plaza Santa Ana, this area is famous as the place where many authors lived, and today is a popular night life spot.

16. Continue on C/ Prado until the Museo Thyssen Bornemisza situated on the Paseo del Prado, which concludes the roundtrip through the city. By aurélie Crombé

24 Learning Spanish in Madrid

Why learn Spanish? Where to begin?

Spanish is a highly useful language to Language schools are the most obvious know, there are 500 millions speakers way to learn Spanish. In general, the level worldwide and it is becoming increas - of classes ranges from complete beginner ingly important across the Western to almost fluent. Higher levels of classes world. Not only will knowledge of often take standardized DELE exams Spanish look great on your CV but it which indicate the level of language profi - will come in handy if you plan on trav - ciency. elling further afield! Class sizes tend to range from 5 to 15 de - You will be surprised to find that, de - pending on the price of the course. Sign spite being a capital city, the majority up early to choose your dates; most of people you come across in Madrid courses begin every 2 weeks. Some cannot speak English. Even in the schools offer discounts when courses are tourist hotspots you will primarily be booked in advance. spoken to in Spanish.

The madrileños seem reluctant to try Check in the to speak English and they will defi - what is included se eg. text books nitely appreciate it if you have a go at price of the cour may be facili- ams. Also there ordering your lunch in Spanish! and ex oms ries or media ro ies such as libra t t, Biblioteca can study. If no where you za de Visit the Instituto de Cervantes where located near Pla an de Vargas is Iv n, airy library they are in charge of the preservation s a really moder Mayor, it i nd f, study rooms a of the Spanish language. They often with helpful staf don’t have have an interesting free exhibition Wi-Fi which you going on in this quite spectacular build - to join to use. ing.

25 Alternatively... Not everyone wants to study from books and equally language schools may be expensive if you are on a tight budget. They are definitely not the only way to get in touch with the Spanish lan - guage in Madrid! You can:

-Become an au pair in Madrid. Create a profile or find a family on www.aupair-world.net. Spanish families always like English-speaking au pairs to expose their niños (kids) to English and you will learn lots of Spanish in return!

-Find a language buddy. On the notice board of C.E.E. Idiomas you will find lots of native Span - ish speakers who want to find an English speaker to exchange languages with.

-Explore! Visit museums and make an effort to flick between the English and Spanish transla - tions. When you watch shows, go shopping or dine out, keep alert to the Spanish language and you will be surprised as to how many new words and phrases you pick up! Remember, integration is the key! Immerse yourself into the Spanish culture - spend your time socialising with Spaniards in the evening or dining amongst them in the authentic Spanish cafes off the tourist Turn over for track – and you will be thinking a few key in Spanish before you know it! phrases to get you Language Schools in Madrid started

Budget Choice: C.E.E. IDIOMAS Language School

This language school is in a great location, right next to the bustling centre of the Puerta Del Sol, with classrooms look - Authentic Experience: Eureka ing out onto the bustling streets. Daily classes are 1 or 2 hours long and begin in the morning or evening so you can Prices begin at €200 for an intensive fit them around other plans. There tends to be a real mix of course of 20 hours. Students are en - nationalities in the classes so it is a great opportunity to couraged to stay with a Spanish fam - meet people from all over the world. Prices range from ily (which usually means renting a €89/month to €148/month. room from a 60-65 year old woman). Address: 6 Calle Carmen The room will always be somewhere Nearest Metro Station: Sol close by to the language school and at €110 per week you can come and go Popular Choice: Tandem, Escuela Internacional as you please or pay €245 and dine with the Spanish family to enjoy the Cheapest courses begin at €205/week. Look out for tai - authentic Spanish experience! lored classes specializing in business, art or cuisine. Tan - dem are also offering a ‘Spanish natural health weekend’ Address: Calle del Arenal which includes a week of learning Spanish and a relaxing Nearest Metro Station: Opera weekend in a Wellness centre in the mountains of Madrid from Friday to Sunday, including full board in an individual room and 2 therapies. ¡Qué bonito! (How lovely!). Ex - tracurricular activities also involve visits to local museums, flamenco lessons and even excursions outside of Madrid. annabelRoss Address: Marqués de Cubas, 8 Nearest Metro Station: Banco de Espana 26 Useful Spanish Phrases Use this helpful guide and you’ll be ordering tapas like a native... Greetings and common phrases Hello / Hola Good morning / Buenos días Good afternoon / Buenas tardes Good night / Buenas noches Please / Por favor Gracias / Thank you That´s alright, you are welcome / De nada Goodbye / Adios Cheers / Salud Enjoy your meal! / ¡Buen provecho!

I don´t speak Spanish / No hablo español I didn´t understand / No le he entendido What time is it? / ¿Qué hora es?

Eating and Drinking I would like.../ Deseo... Chicken, fish, prawns / Pollo, pescado, gambas Beer, red wine, white wine/ Cerveza, vino tinto, Fruit, ice-cream / Fruta, helado vino blanco Starter, main, dessert, drink / Primero, segundo, Bottle of water (fizzy/still) / Botella de agua (con postre, bebida gas/sin gas) Soft drink / Refresco Coffee, tea / Café, té **Especially in Madrid**: Squid sándwich / Bocadillo de calamares Ham/cheese baguette / Bocadillo de Stew / Cocido jamon/queso Cod / Bacalao Toastie / Sándwich Rich hot chocolate with churros / Chocolate con Chips/ Patatas fritas churros Olives / Aceitunas Omelette / Tortilla The bill please / La cuenta por favor Tuna / Atun Salad / Ensalada 27 Numbers and shopping

One / Uno Two / Dos Three / Tres Four / Cuatro Five / Cinco Six / Seis Seven / Siete Eight / Ocho Nine / Nueve Ten / Diez

How much? / ¿Cuánto cuesta? Changing rooms / Los probadores I am a size: small, medium, largo / Uso una talla: pequeña, mediana, grande

Accommodation

Hotel, hostel / Hotel, hostal Cama / Bed Air conditioning / Aire ancondicionada I have reserved / booked a single room / Tengo una habitación individual reservada Do you have a double room available? / ¿Tendría una habitación doble libre? Is breakfast included? / ¿Está el desayuno incluido?

Transport and directions Car, bus, train, walking / Coche, autobus, tren, andando Does this train go to Sol? / ¿Este tren va hacia Sol? Where is the taxi stop? / ¿Dónde está la parada de taxis? Where is Serrano street? / ¿Dónde está la Calle Serrano? How do I get onto Calle 30? / ¿Cómo tomo la Calle 30? Does this bus go near the Gran Via? / ¿Este autobús va hacia Gran Vía? How do I get to Atocha in metro? / ¿Cómo llego en metro a Atocha? 28 Toledo Spain’s previous capital, just 30 minutes from Madrid, is well worth a visit.

70km south of Madrid, far from Historically, Toledo is possibly central position in the the hustle and bustle of busy the most important- and the struggles between the Muslim city life, is the municipality of most eminent- city in Spain. and Christian rulers of Toledo. With a population of Having been populated since northern Spain. When Alfonso just over 82,000 it’s a the Bronze Age, it grew in size VI of Castille, the self- comparatively small yet and wealth during the reign of proclaimed ‘Emperor of all thriving town, rooted in the Roman Empire as the Spain’ conquered Toledo and historical importance, which commercial and administrative seized power, Toledo remained enjoys some of the oldest and centre of the province of a major cultural centre and most architecturally impressive ‘Tarraconensis’ and served as during the 16th century served buildings in Spain. Declared a the Capital of Spain after the as the capital of Spain before world heritage site in 1986 for fall of the Romans until the the court was moved, first to cultural and monumental invasion of the Moors in the and then Madrid- heritage, as Spain’s previous 8th century. Toledo thrived as letting the city’s prominence capital Toledo receives a large cosmopolitan city with decline until the end of the thousands of visitors a year a predominantly Muslim 20th century when Toledo was and with some of the most population and, because of its declared the capital of the strikingarchitecture, it’s not central location in the Iberian autonomous community of difficult to see why. Peninsula, Toledo took a Castille-La Mancha. 29 Toledo cathedral

From personal experience, I designed as a recreation of the the three cultures that co- would highly recommend artist’s home, setting the existed during the Middle getting a guided tour of precedent for what we now Ages. Other important Toledo. For €20, you can consider Spanish style interior historical sights include the receive a two and a half hour decoration. It houses several Primate cathedral of Saint tour of the city’s most important paintings as well as Mary of Toledo, the worthwhile and celebrated information on the artist’s alacantra bridge, the alcazar sights. A tour is easily arranged turbulent life. fortress (currently the army on arrival at the train station, museum ) and the Castillo de or booked online at san Servedo as well as various www.guiastoledo.org . other ruins and historically For approximately significant buildings, that you Whilst guided tours can seem 10 euros you can will no doubt stumble upon daunting, hours spent trawling catch a direct train during your time in Toledo. through the steep and narrow from ‘Atocha renfe’ cobbled streets of Toledo and arrive in I would suggest not visiting clinging to a map desperately Toledo in just over Toledo on a Sunday, as several looking for street names is far 30 minutes. museums are shut after 2pm or less pleasurable (particularly in have restricted opening times. the middle of summer as Check the weather forecast Toledo is renowned as having Not far from the before going during summer the highest temperatures in museum is the Santa Maria la as the heat can prove Spain.) Blanca another museum, and exhausting! Toledo is an If you choose not to former synagogue. Erected in incredible city, and makes a take a guided tour, there are 1180 it is disputably the oldest perfect day trip to escape the several sights worth visiting on standing synagogue in Europe, frantic comings and goings of your own. Primarily, the Museo built in a Christian ruled city by Madrid. del Greco . Recently renovated, Muslims for Jewish use, it is Karina Stoltz the museum was originally symbolises the cooperation of 30 History and Culture

31 A brief history of Madrid

9th Century -Mehmed I builds a small palace at 1748-1819 - The people of Madrid revolt against the site of the present-day Palacio Real. . The massacres of the Spanish protes - 1085 - Alfonso VI of Castile conquers the citadel, tors by the French permanently damage French and turns the mosque into the church of the Vir - rule in Spain and 's image in Europe. gin of Almudena. 1814 - The War of Independence breaks out. Fer - 1391 - A fire destroys the Royal Palace. Henry III nando VII returns to the throne, but remains in of Castile rebuilds the city and establishes himself power for only six years. in El Prado, just outside the city walls. 1936 - The Spanish Civil War breaks out. 1561 - Philip II moves the court - and therefore 1939 - Madrid is taken over by the Nationalists. Spain’s capital - from Toledo to Madrid. 1973 - The President of the Government Luis Car - 1716-1788 - The reigning Carlos III expands the rero Blanco is assassinated. city, improving transport and accomodation, turn - 1979 - The monarchy is restored with Juan Carlos ing Madrid into a more modern city. I as King. 1833 -Isabel II inherits the throne. Despite a tur - 1992 - Madrid becomes the Cultural Capital of bulent reign she remains on the throne until 1870. Europe. During her forty year reign, the city continues to 2004 - A terrorist attack kills 191 people. develop, and theatre and the arts flourish under 2011 - Madrid is the scene of several anti-govern - her patronage. ment protests, in response to rising economic problems. The People behind the Places Cheuca: This barrio is named after composer Frederico Cheuca, who composed several waltzes in prison after being arrested for demonstrating against the government. Malasaña: Named after Manuela Malasaña, a fifteen-year-old girl who died in the May 2nd 1808 uprisings against Napoleon. She resisted rape and was arrested, eventually sentenced to death for carrying a weapon - a pair of scissors. Tirso de Molina: This Metro station is named after a poet, dramatist and monk, who led quite the life. He is said to have written four hundred plays. Although his rivals called him a cor - rupter of public morals, but his fame has endured and he is now accepted as one of the best Spanish playwrights ever. o’donnell: Interesting mainly for its incongruity, the name of this Metro station derives from a nineteenth-century Prime Minister of Spain, Leopoldo O’Donnell y Jorris. He wasn’t a great leader, and apart from the unusual Irish-Spanish combo, he’s otherwise pretty unremarkable. alonso Cano: A painter, architect and sculptor, he too gives his name to a Metro station - al - though his story is far more interesting. He was very successful and painted for royalty, but he is remembered too for his wild temper. Apparently, he returned home one day to find his house robbed and his wife murdered - yet the courts found against him, due to his notorious jealousy. Rubén dario: A Nicaraguan poet who had a drinking problem and a tempestuous marriage with his second cousin. He became involved with politics, journalism, and women, eventually attempting suicide, and suffered from hallucinations. He also managed to write some pretty good poetry, apparently. 32 The Puerta del Sol: The Heart Of Madrid

The Puerta del Sol , or ‘gate of that Spaniards must eat a originally intended to. It is the the sun’ is so named because it grape with each chime of the work of sculptor Antonio was once the site of a gate clock - if they are successful, Navarro Santa Fe. which faced the east and was this indicates a fruitful year adorned with an image of the ahead... More recently the square has sun. been the home of thousands of The Puerta del Sol is also indignados , or protestors, who The gate was first built in the geographically significant for congregated there in May 2011 fifteenth century, but the the whole of Spain; a stone during regional elections to building now at the heart of slab on the pavement marks demonstrate their the square, the Real Casa de Kilometre Zero , which is the dissatisfaction with the Correos , was originally built in official starting point for government and the Spanish the 18th century. At that time Spain's 6 National Roads. economy. The original camps the square was the place to go were cleared by the police, but for news and gossip, the Also in the square is the in late July the square was destination of couriers all over stature of El oso & Madroño , once more packed with tents Spain. The building, no longer or The Bear and the Tree, which and stalls, welcoming marchers the Post Office, is now the is the official symbol of the from all over the country. The headquarters of the President city. The origin of the statue, marchers, their act a response of Madrid's Autonomous and the symbol, is unclear; to the country’s debt crisis and Community. however, it may be as simple as a demand for ‘real democracy’, an allusion to the bears in the were welcomed with the sign The clock tower of the Casa de fields around Madrid and the “Bienvenida dignidad”, or Correos is the famous clock all trees which used to grow “Welcome dignity”. Spaniards watch on New Year's there! It has been moved Eve, counting down the chimes several times in its history, but to midnight. Tradition dictates now stands where it was hannah Shaddock 33 El Palacio Real opposite the royal theatre, sloping down though it was 1764 before Carlos the 3rd from ‘La Plaza de oriente’, you can find became the first king of Spain to take up one of Madrid’s must-see attractions. residence there. Though Felipe V, his often mistakenly called the Palacio de father, initiated the project, he sadly died oriente, it is Madrid's largest building shortly before construction was and possibly its most beautiful. it is completed. surrounded by the beautiful Sabatini and Campo del Moro, the (former) royal in modern times, though the palace gardens parks. remains the official residence of the royal family, they currently live in el as the second largest palace in Europe, it Palacio de Zarzuela, a more modest encompasses 1,450,000 sq ft including estate on the outskirts of town. The over 2800 rooms, making it the largest Palacio Real is however still used for royal palace in Western Europe. it was state ceremonies; protocol for example built on the site of the old alcázar, a dictates that heads of state must be Moorish castle of the islamic kingdom of received there. When Spain officially Toledo, destroyed by fire on Christmas joined the Eu in 1986, it was in the eve 1734. The site however, has been throne room of this palace that the occupied since the 9th century by the signing ceremony took place. Moors; who having named the city's river al-Magrit ("source of Slightly less important functions are also water"), referred to the area as Mayrit often seen, for instance with chamber which became Magerit, then Madrid. The music performances, the annual royal old city walls around this area may still prize-givings (when Spain won the world be seen. cup in 2010 they were celebrated here), and many other smaller events. Though When the fire destroyed the palace, the it is the royal family’s official home, the royal family suddenly became homeless. palace is owned by the Spanish state and it comes as no surprise then to see that administered by ‘El Patrimonio the entire palace is constructed of stone, nacional’. eliminating the possibility of such a fire ever again. The palace was initially although only a handful of the rooms designed by Filippo Juvarra to are open to the public, they provide a accommodate the court of Felipe V, a wonderful impression of life at the total of more than 3000 courtiers. Juan Spanish court, the luxuries they indulged Bautista Sacchetti initiated the building in and fantastic examples of a variety of project in 1737, though construction did decorative styles. amongst others one not begin until april 7 1738. The project can visit the throne room, royal armoury was finished by Francisco Sabatini and and pharmacy, Carlos the 3rd’s private Ventura Rodríguez terminated in 1755, chambers and much more. 34 Though much of the art and valuables were only complete Stradivarius string quintet! rescued from the fire of 1734, uncountable The dozens of valuables within, aside pieces were lost forever. Fortunately the palace from the building itself make the palace one of still boasts an exquisite wealth of art, with all Europe's most important museums and receives kinds of fine materials used in its construction, more than 880,000 visitors in 2006. and its rooms are decorated with artwork, Below the palace, to the west, are the including Flemish tapestries and paintings by gardens of the Campo del Moro . The east artists such as Gasparini, Caravaggio, Velázquez façade of the palace gives way to the Plaza de and Francisco de Goya and frescoes by Giovanni oriente and the Teatro Real opera house. To Battista Tiepolo and Anton Raphael Mengs. the south is a vast square, the Plaza de la The paintings within the palace, though armas , surrounded by narrow wings of the it is only a small collection, complements the palace, and to the south of that is located collection at the Prado, which was constructed the Catedral de la Almudena. To the north are as a place to house the royal collection. By the Jardines de Sabatini (Sabatini Gardens) , taking part in a guided tour for a small extra named after one of the architects of the palace. fee, you gain access to several rooms in the Similar to London, the Royal Palace of palace called the ‘Galerias de los pinturas’, Madrid has an official changing of the guard which houses a small portion of the royal ceremony on the first Wednesday of every painting collection including works by Goya and month (except August and September) the Velazquez. courtyard. A wonderful experience, quite Other collections of great impressive to see the mounted guard and historical and artistic importance that are uniforms and such, but keep in mind it’s only preserved in the building are the Royal monthly if you want to see it! Armoury, Porcelain, Watches, Furniture and aishwarya das Silverware. Surprisingly it also hosts the world's Contact details Opening Hours

Address: Calle Bailén, 28071 Winter season (October through March) Contact number: 91 454 88 00 10.00 – 18.00 every day Website (in Spanish): http://www.patrimo - Summer season (April through September) nionacional.es/Home/Palacios-Reales/Palacio- 10.00-20.00 every day Real-de-Madrid.aspx Note that the ticket booth closes an hour before Bus: lines 3, 25, 39 and 148 closing time. Metro: lines 2 and 5 (nearest station Opera) Prices Trenes de Cercanías: Estación de Principe Pio Guided Tour 7€, Standard Ticket 10€, Reduced Ticket 5€ 35 Madrid’s Monuments

Churches & Cathedrals

There are over 200 churches in Madrid alone, mostly Roman Catholic as 73% of the population identify themselves as belonging to this faith. Stuck for choice on which religious monuments to visit? Take a look at our choices... Almudena Cathedral

Madrid’s main cathedral is surprisingly new in extravagant - with good reason as no architect build, having only been completed in 1993, 110 in Madrid dared to compete with that of the years after construction began! Situated Palace. However unimpressed you are by the controversially right next door to the Royal subtle architecture on the side of the cathedral Palace, it is often out-staged in beauty facing the Palace, continue to walk down Calle especially as the Palace is the first sight you Barlan and you will receive magnificent views of come across on the regular tourist path. the Cathedral’s south facing side. Take the The architecture of the Palace is much more cable car to Casa de Campo for another beautiful view of the cathedral against the Visit the cathedral for free daily 9am-8.30pm skyline. and the museum Monday-Saturday, 10am- The neo-gothic interior of the cathedral is 2.30pm. Closed Sundays and holidays. modern and colourful. If you are interested in Prices the history of the museum and religious art, you General admission: €6. can enter the museum attached and climb up to Reduced: €4 the dome of the cathedral for a great view of the city. 36 Templo de Debod

Originally built on the Nile Valley in Egypt, this from the bustling centre of the city. temple was dedicated to the god Amun and the Interestingly, the linear complex of the goddess Isis. In 1970, as the temple was temple is orientated so it lines up exactly with threatened to be destroyed by the Aswan Dam, the ancient Egyptian obelisk located in the it was carefully dismantled and sent on a boat Vatican Square in Rome. Situated on top of the from Egypt to , and then on a train to hill in the Parque del Oeste, the temple offers Madrid. It was considered as a gift from Egypt, some of the best views across the city and in thanking Spain for helping them save their particular of the Almudena Cathedral. Visit the prized UNESCO site Abu Simbel from the rising temple at sunset for some great photos! waters. It is one of the few pieces of ancient opening Times Egyptian architecture outside of Egypt and is a Tuesday-Friday 8am-2pm and 6pm-8pm; striking contrast against the surrounding Saturdays and Sundays 10am-2pm. skyscrapers and cobbled streets of Madrid. Surrounded by placid waters the temple nearest Metro Station: Plaza de España provides a moment of peace and serenity away

If you have time to visit more churches, the following are recommended: San Jeronimo Real Church has a particularly picturesque exterior and is conveniently located next to the Prado museum. Real Basilica de San Francisco El Grande is 5 minutes from the Royal Palace and the garden next to it has beautiful views. If you are in the Chueca district, visit the Convent of the Salesas Reales which has the most impressive interior, but be careful you don’t walk in on a wedding though as it is one of the most popular churches to get married in! annabel Ross 37 E l Teatro Real

The Royal Theatre of Madrid stands as an architectural monument with its hexagon shape. It sits on an exquisite location in front of the Royal Palace and directly between two squares: Plaza de Isabel 2nd and Plaza de Oriente. With the capacity to seat up to 1748 people, it is both an elegant and state of the art opera house, well worth a visit during your stay in Madrid. A beautiful, neo-classical building; its stage is home to world-class ballet, classical music and opera performances. Moreover, the building’s colourful history includes its claim for hosting the 14th Eurovision Song Contest in 1969, storing gun powder during the civil war and serving as a dance hall. The original design was from 1818, by the architect Cuatodio Moreno, for a 3-story building. Though in modern times the fly-tower, which houses the mechanics for the stage, is around 74 meters; the equivalent of 22 stories. The interior of the main structure of the building is perfectly symmetrical, and as such deceiving as to the size of it. More importantly, it is completely soundproof, providing a welcome calm from Madrid’s busy centre.

38 The Teatro Real was most prestigious opera houses of a workshop right here in commissioned after the Caños of Europe. Madrid! del Peral Theater was Its magnificent opera hall has The building’s beautiful destroyed. Due to a range of velvet red seats, gold gilded architectural style, interior issues however, it would still decorations and a stunning decoration and fascinating take nearly 32 years for it to be chandelier. history make the Royal Theatre completed! Though progress Its Italian inspiration is a must-see attraction in was slow and often halted, on quite clearly from its horse- Madrid! Guided tours are May 7th 1850 Queen Isabel shoe shape. The overall style of available and last for about 50 2nd gave a Royal Order for the the building is 19th century minutes. More information on “immediate termination of the Spanish luxury. On a optional them is available below. ‘Orient Theatre’”. The building guided tour you have the Music lovers can also was finished in 5 months and opportunity to see differently simply attend an event at the finally opened on the 10th of decorated lounges. All rooms opera house as the theatre October the same year. have unique carpets, beautiful stages around seventeen opera Unfortunately the structure wallpaper as well as tapestries, titles (both own productions had to be closed in 1925 for busts, sculptures and paintings and co-productions with other security reasons, and was of famous singers, dancers and major European opera houses) under renovation until its composers. Take a look per year. Additionally, there are reopening as a concert hall in especially at the room full of usually two or three ballets and 1966. It was still not, however portraits of Spanish kings. several recitals. Both the the opera hall as we know it Perhaps most unique of Madrid symphonic orchestra as today. After further all; every room has a different well as the choir, function renovation Madrid’s stunning chandelier, though none independently of the theatre, Opera House reopened for surpass the one in the opera but are under contract during good in 1997. It now boasts hall itself. Weighing in at 2.7 the theatre seasons. fantastic acoustics, worthy of tons, it is 4.5 meters in aishwarya das its reputation as one of the diameter, showing off the work

Guided tours: Tours take place every half an hour, with a minimum of 10 people or a maxi - mum of 25. The tour takes you through: main entrance, main lobby, 5 rooms on the second floor, restaurant, the cafeteria and the opera hall. They usually last for about 50 mins. For group visits please contact the theatre at: 91 516 06 96 or [email protected]

Times: Monday to Friday: 10.30 – 13.00 Closed Tuesdays. Tickets can be purchased at the ticket-windows, between 10.00 and 13.00 on the day.

Prices: Standard: 5 €, Students, young people (up to 26), and over 65’s: 3 €, Under 7: FREE

Restaurant: If you wish to enjoy the theatre further it is possible to lunch and dine in the theatre restaurant. Glass windows spotted along the walls show costumes from previous performances and the elliptical dining area in the centre sits under a reconstructed sky with the exact positions of the constellations of opening night. If you do go, try to spot the little red light that depicts Mars!

Shop: Monday – Friday: 10.00-20.00 Saturday: 10.00-14.00

39 Madrid’s Golden Triangle

For anyone coming to Madrid hoping to see a bit of culture - whether interested in art, history, or a bit of both - there are three places that everyone will tell you to visit: the Museo del Prado , the Museo Reina Sofia , and the Thyssen-Bornemisza , also known as the Golden Triangle of Museums. If you have a whole day free and money is no object, then you can certainly do all three in a day. If you’re short on time or money and can only choose one or two,this guide will help you choose which ones you can’t afford to miss... hannah Shaddock El Museo del Prado The Prado is the oldest and most famous, and unsurprisingly the most traditional, at least in terms of the artworks it houses; the interior may seem modern, but the building itself is actually around 200 years old. Its collection is the most traditional and arguably the most Spanish of all three museos, due to its royal origins. It is one of the most visited destinations in the world, and with good reason - the Prado’s full collection contains over 7600 paintings, thousands of sculptures, prints, and other historical and artistic documents (not all of them are on show at once!).

NAVIGATION The Prado is free for Meninas and his many INFORMATION Finding what you’re everyone every day portraits of royalty; opening hours looking for is relatively between six and eight, almost everything by Tues-Sun, 9am-8pm Free 6-8 every day, 5- straightforward - the except on Sundays, Goya , but particularly El 8 on Sundays. main attractions are when it’s five until eight; tres de mayo en Madrid, marked clearly on the however, it’s free any Tobias y el ángel , Prices maps, which you can time if you have a Saturno devorando a un General: 10€ find at various student card. If you hijo and his Cristo Reduced: 5€ (8€ and 4€ for entry information points arrive promptly at six crucificado , and for only to the permanent around the museum, expect to queue, but to more Spanish masters collections) and there are plans you avoid waiting in the heat try El Greco and Jose can take with you get there a little later. It’s de Ribera . Check out address: Calle Ruiz de Alarcón 23, Madrid around the museum to generally not too busy non-Spaniards Rubens, 28014 help you navigate. The in the evenings and the Raphael, Tintoretto, Telephone: (0034) 913 website also has museum itself is kept hieronymous Bosch, 330 2800 suggested routes for very cool, a perfect Caravaggio and Titian . Website: http://www. one, two and three-hour escape from the sun. museodelprado.es/en nearest Metro: Banco visits. DON’T MISS de España WHEN TO VISIT Velázquez’s Las 40 Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofia The Museo Reina Sofia is a little further down the Paso del Prado, and again is located in grand surroundings, next to the Royal Conservatory, and its modern facade hides a pretty courtyard, complete with fountains and modern scultpures. Its collection is generally quite modern, with the earliest works dating from 19th century. Permanent collections are located on the fourth and second floors - temporary exhibitions are varied, but usually very good, and at least worth a look. It is free every weekday from 7- 9 - free hours vary at weekends.

NAVIGATION WHEN TO VISIT TO SEE INFORMATION Slightly trickier than the Again the Reina Sofia is Picasso’s Guernica ; opening hours Mon-Sat, 10am-9pm, other two. Potential always free for students, Salvador dalí’s many Sunday: 10am-2:30p, difficulty arises with the and for everyone for works, and fellow closed Tuesdays. enigmatically-named two hours in the Spanish Surrealist oscar Prices rooms. Instead look for evening, between seven dominguéz ; José General: 6€ spe cific artists or dates. and nine, and slightly Gutierrez Solana’ s The Reduced: 3€ There are attendants in longer at weekends (see Bishop’s Visit , Garrotte every room and helpful- info). Again you may Vil by Ramón Casas , address: 52 Santa Isabel Street, looking people behind want to arrive a little and drawings and 28012 Madrid desks around the museo later - queues have watercolours by Luis Telephone: (0034) 91 who will to point you in usually dispersed by half quintanilla . There 774 10 00 Website: http://www. the right direction. past. arealso works by museoreinasofia.es/in Kandinsky, Joan Miró , dex_en.html and Pierre Bonnard . nearest Metro: Atocha The Thyssen-Bornemisza Lastly there is the Thyssen-Bornemisza, just opposite el Prado, the newest and perhaps the least well-known of the three museos. It was originally built up as a private collection, and is therefore more varied than the other two, containing works from almost every major artist - and artistic movement - from acros the centuries. The collection was acquired by Spain for $350 million in the 1980s, and was opened in its current location - the 18th century Villahermosa Palace - in 1992. There is something for everyone here, with less of a Spanish focus, with artworks dating from the 13th century right up to the 20th century. 41 NAVIGATION WHEN TO VISIT TO SEE INFORMATION Maps are available and It is never free, but the Lots! degas ’ Green opening hours simple to follow, entrance fee is reduced Ballerina, hans holbein Tues-Sun, 9am-7pm Closed Mondays. antouch-screens to find by 50% for students and the Younger’s Portrait the location of specific other concessions. Its of Henry VIII , Edward Prices paintings; the works are temporary exhibitions hopper’s Hotel Room , General: 8€ arranged are usually very good, Roy Leichtenstein’s Reduced: 5.50€ chronologically and a and worth paying a bit Woman in the Bath , address: Palacio de suggested route is extra to see. Claude Monet’s Charing Villahermosa, Paseo marked on the maps, Cross Bridge , and del Prado 8 although you can make It’s particularly busy at Rembrant’s Self-Portrait Madrid, 28014 Spain your own way round. weekends; go later to wearing a hat and two Telephone: (0034) 91 369 01 51 You can take your time, avoid crowds. chains are just a Website: http://www. but even at a leisurely selection of the many, museothyssen.org/en/ pace you can get round many famous works on nearest Metro: Banco the collection in 2 hours. show. de España

But these are by no means the only museos worth visiting in Madrid. There are 27 in total, but to help you pick which ones might interest you, here’s a quick rundown of the best of the rest... Museo de la Academia de Bellas Artes (pictured) C/ Alcalá, 13, 28014 Madrid (0034) 915 240 864 Nearest metro: Sol

Museo de Romanticismo C/ San Mateo, 13. 28004 Madrid (0034) 914 481 045 Nearest metro: Tribunal

Museo Municipal Calle Fuencarral, 78, 28004 Madrid (0034) 917 011 863 Nearest metro: Tribunal

Museo Archeológico C/ Serrano, 13, 28001 Madrid (0034) 91 577 79 12 Nearest metro: Serrano or Rétiro 42 Pablo Picasso, Guernica and the Spanish Civil War

Madrid is a great and flourishing city which has centuries, and are still performing nowadays. This got a lot to offer, whether its visitors are happens in particular around the museums, where interested in art or not. But whoever walks the majority of the art is preserved. And it is through its streets can feel its wealth of art and within these astonishing and historical buildings history from the very beginning. The Spanish that one of the most famous and evocative capital illustrates a great deal about the country’s paintings of the 20th century is preserved: the history, even in its most hidden corners, where so Guernica by Pablo Ruiz Picasso, in the Museo many different artists used to perform in the past nacional Centro de arte Reina Sofia. Picasso Painting the Guernica

Even though he lived most of his life in France, Picasso demonstrated extraordinary artistic talent since his early years. For this reason, and because he was a supporter of the centre-left Republican Government during the Spanish Civil War, opposed to the Nationalists, he was commissioned by the Spanish Republican government to create a large mural for the Spanish display at the Paris International Exposition in 1937.

Its aim was to depict the Spanish Republican government’s struggle for existence, and to bring This name does not only evoke a famous artist the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939) to the world’s or work of art. Picasso is a legend, almost a attention by showing the tragedies and the myth. In many aspects, he is the symbol of suffering war inflicts upon individuals, particularly modern art. He can be named among those innocent civilians. who reproduce, through their art, the At the beginning Picasso did not know what heterogeneous and sometimes chaotic to paint in order to accomplish such an important expressions of the culture, creating something task. However, on the 26th of April 1937 Guernica, a totally evocative and, at the same time, town in Basque country, was bombed by German intangible. and Italian warplanes, as ordered by the Spanish He was a Spanish painter and sculptor Nationalist forces. As a response to this first attack born in Malaga in 1881 (1881-1973), widely upon civil people in Europe, Picasso started painting known for co-founding Cubism - a 20th his most extraordinary and evocative work of art century avant-garde art movement that with the name of the homonymous city, which he revolutionised European art - and for other finished by mid-June 1937. styles and artistic movements that he inspired. 43 Guernica

It is a mural-size canvas painted in many the inhumanity, brutality be found in the same section of oil (3.5 metres tall and 7.8 metres and hopelessness of war, its the Museo Reina Sofia . They all wide) and it is the most well- interpretations vary widely and express the loss of values and the known painting of the 20th contradict one another. It must be lack of safety typical of the century. It is grey, black and white considered as a combination of historical period of the Civil War and it shows people and animals real historical facts, arts and and they are all extremely suffering and buildings destroyed politics. evocative, symbolising concepts by violence and chaos. However, historical facts and rather than giving a direct Its structure is a triptych, here are only evoked in an representation of reality. namely in three parts. The central indirect way -apart from the Art was a form of protest during part is occupied by a horse falling name, there is no direct reference this time, a way to make people in agony and a frightened female to the bombing of Guernica or to conscious of all the atrocities figure which have floated in the Civil War. Picasso was humanity was going through, as through a window, carrying a commissioned to represent all the that was the only means artists flame-lit lamp, perhaps a symbol terrible tortures the Republican had to express themselves and of hope. The painting is arranged part of Spain was going through. their incertidumbre . And Picasso in triangles, where the central is And he did it; but in a very was one of the main, if not the the most important one and symbolic way, the painting a main, representative of this new whose base is the body of the historical symbol of people’s fear form of art. dead soldier and the lamp is the caused by war, an allegorical and Picasso and the vertex. evocative composition of all these symbolism evoked by his The lack of colours can be feelings, thoughts and events. Guernica constitute something seen as the lack of life and hope And this is exactly what Picasso’s fundamental for the Spanish during the civil war and the whole style is in this period, which culture and for the concept of the painting, because of its symbolises the lack of balance war, and therefore his popularity dimensions and the many figures and security. and the importance of his work of that it hosts, can seem to be quite Other paintings by Picasso art will never fade. confusing at first sight. In fact, or by others of that period, such although Guernica embodies for as Dalí, Miró, Dominguez, etc., can Francesca Bonetti 44 Spain’s Classic Painters

Spain has a rich history of art, spanning over many centuries and the City of Madrid is a great place to get a taste. The city showcases much of the best of Spain’s most influential artists including Goya, Velázquez, El Greco, Dalí and Picasso as well as many other great works of art from around the world. Home to some of Spain’s most prestigious galleries and museums, including the Prado and Reina Sophia, Madrid is the perfect place to introduce or expand your knowledge of Spain’s classic painters. Diego Velázquez (1599 - 1660) Diego Velázquez is certainly one of Spain’s most revered painters. Beginning his career in , the city of his birth, Velázquez quickly developed an original composition style and developed the technical mastery that made his works so famous. In 1623 he relocated to Madrid where he was appointed as court painter to King Phillip IV and so his style adapted to comply with the characteristics required for formal court paintings.

Las Meninas Velázquez's most famous work Las Meninas, showing the family of King Phillip IV was moved to the Prado from the Royal Palace when the museum opened in 1818. Around 60% of his collection currently is housed at the Prado. This painting is one of his most influential works, inspiring the likes of Picasso who developed a series of 58 paintings inspired by it and is a must-see for art lovers.

These paintings were done as murals onto the walls Goya (1746-1828) of his home “Quinta del Sordo” (“House of the Deaf Man”) which he bought in 1819. They were Renowned 19th century painter Francisco de Goya y transferred to canvas after Goya’s death. Lucientes produced many of Spain’s most important images. Some of his most famous works include This collection includes one of his most famous “The Second of May - The Fight Against the works “Saturn”, argu ably the most powerful pieces Mamedukes” and “The Third of May - The Execution in the collection, showing Saturn devouring one of of the Defenders of Madrid”. These particular his children; it was based on the Greek myth of Titan paintings show with frightening clarity the Cronus who believed he would be overthrown by irrationality and mass of emotion relating to man’s one of his children so he ate them upon their birth. ability to inflict violence on each other and to be Goya was 73 by this time and it is believed that pushed to fight to the death. Both of these paintings these paintings reflect that the artist was concerned can be seen at the Museo de Prado. with his own mortality. The collection came to the Prado in 1881 but had to undergo restoration While there visitors can also see Goya’s “The Black before finally being put on display in 1889. Paintings”, named for the use of dark pigments and black but also for their evidently sombre nature. 45 Where To See Them

There are still two Velázquez paintings hanging alongside the likes of Goya and classical French and Italian painters in the Palacio Real de Madrid , which can be seen if you wish to take the tour while you visit. It is an extra 2 euros on top of the standard ticket price of 8 euros but is well worth it.

You can also find Velázquez’s works in rooms 9a and 10-15 within the Museo del Prado .

Also hanging in the Palacio Real de Madrid are five works by Goya who, like Velázquez, was a court painter to the Spanish crown.

His works can be found in rooms 32, 34-38, 64-67 and 75 of the Museo del Prado . Some of his earlier sketches can also be seen in the Museo de la academia de Bellas artes , just off the Puerta del Sol. El Greco and Jose de Ribera

Two other Spanish artists that Apostles in 1630; these types of are definitely worth mentioning paintings were very popular at are El Greco (1541-1641) and the time of the Counter Jose de Ribera (1591-1652). Reformation. They are characterised El Greco’s work “La Trinidad” - by usually being half-length “The Holy Trinity” was his first portraits on neutral commission, an altarpiece for backgrounds the most notable the Convent of Santa Domingo being “St Bartholomew” and “St el Antonio in Toledo. Peter”. All these works can be For particular fans of the seen at the Prado also. artist, there is an El Greco museum in Toledo (Paseo del So if you’d like to spend some Tránsito, s / n 45002 Toledo) time strolling through cool about half an hour’s train ride galleries to escape the heat for from Madrid. a while Madrid is the perfect place! Jose de Ribera created a series of eight paintings of The Lisa MacLeod 46 MADRID’S STREET ART

Madrid is well known for its classical art, Near acacias metro station in the southern particularly in the Prado museum, as well as district of there is a lot of its contemporary collections in the Reina graffiti on shops, walls and around the park Sofía . But there is a whole world of street area and the public swimming pool. This is art or graffiti that inhabits some of the just a short walk down the hill when you newer areas of the city. From a design come out of the metro. around someone’s keyhole on their front door to a piece that covers one entire wall of a building, graffiti can be found in many different forms.

The street that started the wave of graffiti- covered shop shutters in Madrid is Calle General Álvarez de Castro in the district of Chamberí . El Colmenero, a travel agent on this street, was the first to accept an offer from a boy who said he would paint his shutters. The next thing he knew, half the street had paid the same boy to paint their shutters as well. Usually the design is related to the shop; for example the shutters of the old academy of art has an urban If you want to have a go yourself and version of Guernika, combining the modern contribute to some of Madrid’s graffiti, the and the traditional arts that you can see in workshop of urban art “El Keller” in Madrid. Lavapiés is a space for artists to bring materials and ideas and “take over the In Malasaña it is possible to see countless streets”. Every Tuesday at 6pm there is a examples of street art: Plaza 2 de Mayo and workshop where you can learn more about its surrounding streets are home to many street art, get involved and feel part of an murals as well, but if you are interested in urban art crew. The workshop is also open urban art it is almost better not to look for for public viewing every day from 7pm- it, and that is when you stumble across the 11pm. gems. Travelling to a new city is always exciting because part of the fun is getting Street art originates from the street, created lost and discovering things you would never by the city’s inhabitants, and therefore there have seen otherwise. This is certainly the is no better way to get under the skin of case in Malasaña and some of Chueca as Madrid than to understand its people and well, its neighbouring and famously gay join them in learning about street art and district. watching first-hand how it is done. amanda Green 47 Literary Madrid The best way to learn about the city’s impressive literary heritage is to retrace the steps of its most famous writers The Barrio of Santa Ana, the Vega is considered something area between C/ Atocha and C/ of a Spanish Shakespeare. In Alcala, is a nice area for a walk, his lifetime he wrote almost offering small streets with 2000 plays. historic residential buildings and pretty tree lined Plazas. Parallel to C/ Cervantes Nicknamed ‘Barrio de Letras’, runs C/Lope de Vega, where this is where the authors of you find the Convento de las Spain's Golden Age lived and Trinitarias Descalzas, where there are several places worth Cervantes was originally a visit for those interested in buried, although his remains literature. have since disappeared. Starting on the southern Cervantes’ influence on edge on C/ Atocha, there is at Spanish language and number 87 the Museo literature was huge, and Cervantino, where the printing statues of Cervantes or his press on which the first edition famous character Don Quijote of Don Quijote was printed can be found in Plaza de once was. On the front is a España and the Congreso de bronze relief of Don Quijote. one reaches Plaza Ana (above), Los Diputados among others, Walking up C/ a lovely square with several and reference to the story are Desamparados, a side street to bars, among them the frequent in all sorts of Atocha, at the junction with Cerveceria Alemana, where contexts, from historic fabrics C/Moratin you come across the Ramon del Valle-Inclan, an to modern abstract statues. Plazuela de San Juan, where influential dramatist of the In the same street as the Leandro Moratin, dramatist, 20th century, and Ernest Convento is the house where translator and poet, was born. Hemingway were regulars. Quevedo and Gongora lived, Continuing on C/ The Teatro Español, both poets, bitter rivals, and Desamparados up to dating back to 1745, stands at contemporaries of Lope de C/Huertas, at no 29, the the eastern side of the Plaza. Vega. The house is marked by beginning of Don Quijote is Just next to the theatre begins a plaque. inlaid into the street surface, as C/ Prado where at No. 21 is the Casa Museo Lope de are several other famous Ateneo, a private cultural quotes all along this street. institution with a library, Vega On C/ Huerta lies the exhibition hall and archives. Plaza Matute where you can The architecture is impressive Opens Tuesday-Sunday find a beautiful old bookshop, and there are portraits of the Desnivel, which specializes in great Spanish authors on 10am-2pm, closed Mon - travel. display. day. At the western end of C/ Turning south on C/ Huertas is the C/ San Sebastian Visits must be Leon and then left onto C/ arranged in advance with the Iglesia San Sebastian, Cervantes one finds the Museo where plaques commemorate Casa de Lope de Vega in the and are only by tour. the writers baptized, married house in which the writer lived Admission is free. or buried here in the grounds for 25 years. On show is a next to the church where now typical 17th century private is a florist. house as well as several objects Tel. (0034) 914 299 Crossing Plaza de Angel, that belonged to Vega himself. 216 48 Hemingway’s Madrid

Westin Palace hotel El Sobrino de Botin Tours The Wellington Society Plaza de las Cortes 7. Restaurant in a small street The official tourist board offers tours on historical Hemingway stayed here behind Plaza Mayor, where organizes tours on literary and cultural subjects, in - and the hotel bar fea - Hemingway was a frequent subjects, currently only in cluding on Hemingway, tures in ‘The Sun also guest, even cooked there Spanish. Times given on check offers on www.well - Rises’. once himself, and which the webpage are not al - soc.org also features in his book ways up to date, so check “The Sun also Rises’. The in the tourist office on front is decorated with a Plaza Mayor and buy tick - picture of him. ets in advance. Madrid ’s Best Bookshops There is a wealth of bookshops in Madrid. Below is a selection of those that are interesting for English speaking visitors. Casa de Libros Just around the corner of Martinez, 9.3am- to 21.30 Two large bookshops with Metro Noviciado in C/ Espiritu Mon-Sat. some English books and Span - Santo 47. ish learning material. Gran Via Opening hours change each C/ Claudio Moyano is lined 29 and C/ Maestro Victoria, month but can be checked on - with the Mercado de Libros , a open 9.30-9.30. line at www.jandjbooksandcof - row of kiosks with second hand fee.com. books, Metro Atocha.

Museo del Biblioteca Na - cional Bookseller The Biblioteca collects Small English bookshop in every work published in C/Fernandez de la Hoz 40, Spanish. It has three Metro Iglesia, 9.30am-2pm, million volumes. 5pm-8pm Mon-Fr, 10am-2pm Paseo de Recoletos Sat. 20,Metro Colon. The li - brary is open for multi - Pasajes desnivel (above) media tours on 10am-8pm Tue-Sat, 10am-1pm Sun, Very nice bookshop with a Plaza Matute, Metro Anton Admission is free. good selection of fiction and Martin, 10am-2pm, 4.30pm- non-fiction books in several 8pm Mon-Sat. JJ Books and Coffee languages including English, www.libreriadesnivel.com Small Bar with a decent selec - German, French and Spanish. tion of second-hand English Also language learning mate - books on sale in the basement. rial. C/ Genova 2, Metro Alonso Aurélie Crombé 49 Things to do 50 Flamenco “to have the quality of fire”

Take the time to visit a flamenco show whilst in Madrid, and you too will be filled with the fire evoked by the passionate dance and vibrant music...

THE HISTORy until the early hours of the I was mesmerised by the Flamenco dancing began in morning, and it did not fail to intense, and at times, ferocious Andalusia in the late 18th disappoint, nor did the players guitar playing; you do not need century, and is generally show any signs of flagging. to be a native speaker of considered to be the dance of Spanish to understand the the gypsies due to the themes depth of emotion conveyed by expressed within the music, the music and song – just look and the minimal usage of at the dancer’s face. On this props and instruments. note, each movement of the The key elements of dance is so intricately flamenco are: cante (singing); performed (a specific example toque (guitar playing); palmas of this being the definition of or jaleos (hand clapping – the hand gestures), that you sometimes replaced by the will be astounded at the fact pounding of a wooden stick); that this is an improvised and of course, dance. If you performance! I believe the really want to experience the poise differs in a juerga dance in its most traditional, performance to those that are non-commercialised form, I more commercialised; you will suggest travelling outside of notice rapid movements such the main city to watch an as the arching of the back and informal dance session, known twisting of the torso, which as a juerga (festivity). gave a rougher quality to the Performers at Cafetín La Quimera dance than that which may THE DAnCE Having gone with little generally be associated with The flamenco at Cafetín La expectation, it took me a while flamenco. Quimera is an excellent to adjust to the singer’s voice, example of the traditional with which there was no fault, In this traditional form of dance mentioned above. For rather just the marked flamenco, the costumes worn €8 (including 1 drink of your difference to what I (in my un- are plain and representative of choice), you can enjoy an cultured position!) am used to. the origins of the dance and entirely improvised show, and To understand my point, you the earthy themes evoked by if you are feeling brave (or really must experience this for the music. Do not expect inebriated!) enough, you are yourself; by way of description brightly coloured, frilly invited to join the performers the tone was raw with an costumes here! As a word of on stage to play, dance or sing Arabian-like quality, which is advice, avoid sitting near the flamenco! It is a highly representative of this genre. front of the stage, as you will energetic performance that Once my initial surprise soon be hit by the dancer’s hair takes place nightly disappeared clips which quickly fly off as the lively dancing begins! 51 This style of flamenco appealed to me as I wanted to watch a show which had not been choreographed or adapted to appeal to tourists. However, if the latter is preferred, you will not be short of options offered by the Tourist Information Office or the many advertisements which can be found around the city. The most easily accessible forms of flamenco available in the main city are the theatrical performances, which although use the flamenco technique are closer to ballet in presentation. Where to go... CAFETín LA QuIMERA Address: Calle de Sancho Davila 34, Madrid, 28028 Opening hours: 15:00 (for food and drinks – flamenco begins as 22:30) until 3:00 Price: €8 including 1 drink (for flamenco) nearest Metro station: Manuel Becerra (lines 2 and 6) Buses: 12 and 146 Telephone: (0034) 91 356 93 61

TEATRO REInA VICTORIA Address: Carrera de San Jerónimo 24, Madrid, 28014 Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday per - formances are at 19:00 and 21:00. Sunday performances are at 19:00 Price: €15 on Tuesdays and Wednesdays; €20 – €25 Thursday to Sunday nearest Metro station: Manuel Becerra (lines 2 and 6) Buses: 3, 5, 15, 20, 51, 52, 53, 150 Telephone: (0034) 91 360 06 40

Address: Plaza Mayor 27, Madrid, 28012 Opening hours: 9:30 – 20:30 daily Website: http://www.esmadrid.com nearest Metro station: Sol (lines 1, 2, 3) or Ópera (lines 2, 5) Buses: 17, 18, 23, 31, 35 Telephone: (0034) 91 58816 36

52 Where to shop in M ADRID

Designer and Versace, Valentino, boutiques Prada, and Jimmy Choo . In the surrounding area Madrid has two main other boutiques are also streets that the world’s worth a visit. fashion designers call agatha Ruiz de la home. Great names such Prada is a colourful and as Chanel , Louis Vuitton quirky Spanish designer and dolce and Gabbana whose items are fairly all congregate on affordable, especially in the corners and side the traditional sales of street between Calle de the summer months. Claudio and Calle These famous names are Serrano; Calle de Jose worth a visit if you can Ortega y Gasset Also in loosen your purse strings the vicinity are Giorgio more than a little. armani, hermes, 53 Vintage and Alternative wide variety of alternative printed t-shirts. Also Begin on Calle San Benardo with Muleya , a make sure you visit La antigua Shop , on Calle shop with clothes at a steal, and especially cute del Pez, which is a beautifully quaint offering, jumpsuits. Then work your way up Calle de selling unique clothes and jewellery. Luna, which is home to the vintage store F.a.q. Housing beautiful Vintage clothing and Other recommendations are The deli Room , jewellery, provocative images from the 40’s and which specializes in Spanish designers and has 50’s are dispersed throughout the décor. an original layout, and Lotta Vintage Continue onto Corredera Baja de San Pablo, to (http://www.lottavintage.com/en/). These and Feminsa-objetos Perdidos , which offers many others in these side streets are open from vintage clothes as well as knick-knacks and a 9-2 and 5-9 (approx).

lA antiGUA

To be found on Calle de Fuencarral are many clothing. However, it is the top floor that really alternative, punk style shops, as well as some captures interest. The top floor is home to rail beautiful but not inexpensive boutiques. One in after rail of beautiful, quirky clothing. Some particular, YoKana , is situated on Calle Augusto vintage inspired, some vintage itself. Kling is Figueroa and has some exquisite items, and a both of these, stretching out over almost half of beautiful collection of scarves, priced at around the top floor. You can visit their website at 35 euros each. www.kling.es/campaign. However, the true cave of wonders Another delight is Plazita Serrano with comes in the form of Mercado Fuencarral, on cute dresses, jewellery and imaginative displays: the street of the same name. Inside is an open http://plazitaserrano.blogspot.com. There is plan shopping mall maze, taking you from one more of the same from Pepa Karnero , which small shop to another. Most of the ground floor frequently display shoes that play homage to has alternative style shops, and a fantastic open Vivienne Westwood's 'Melissa' shoe, for only plan lounge bar, almost merging with the €15. to find Madrid’s alternative and vintage offerings you must be prepared to hunt for them. Go in the morning or the evening to catch the Vintage shops that, fittingly - just like the vintage spanish culture - value the siesta so highly! 54 AFForDABLe FAshion high street shopping Madrid’s high street shopping experience encompasses all the European favourites. Between Gran Via and the Puerto del Sol there are two streets full of the high street chains. Calle de Car - men is home to Miss Sixty, Shana, Pimkie, Symbolo, Zara, Mango and Bershka and the department h&m on GrAn Vía

store El Corte inglés . grand entrance show - The latter three can ing clothes sparsely on also be reached rails as if a boutique. through Calle de Pre - Not only is this store ciado, which much larger with a

also has e much better som in uch Sfera, s, s layout, it is op or sh ra Spring - s Za may beautiful a ou , y pay field, h&M to and includes ble if be a nds Blanco, pou ay- grand stair - in re p u a oysho yo by cases (don’t ing d. and h&M . car worry there are escalators However if h&M is and lifts also) and your destination, for - stained glass windows. get the Calle de Preci - Although a mere high ado and instead head street shop, one feels only yards further up as if they have stepped Gran Via to find H&M through the dressing paradise. Enter and room to a designer you find yourself in a Narnia. el rastro beautiful building, its 55 Madrid’s hiding in the Markets cobbled side streets. Beautiful antiques El Rastro is a large laid out on blankets; street held market chairs, clocks, every Sunday and birdcages and old Public Holiday, from leather trunks. 9am to 3pm (to avoid the crowds go Also on offer are before 11am). There unusual and are the usual market beautiful necklaces, stall goods; which are stylish bracelets and and original. Other earrings, stall after mentions belong to stall of woven bags a stall selling thin and scarves, and cotton dresses, tops rip-off designer and shirts, all sunglasses. individual and effortlessly chic, and However, if you another boasting delve a little deeper hand sketched into the fray you will pictures. discover treasures Abo and ve be el low s ras : Tapas is the food 7th August each tre tro et ket Mar on offer in the year and open ev , he - ery ld side streets 10am-10pm. an su d f nda ies y (standing only), fro tas m 9 , unt am and keep your Although small, it il 3pm bag close to you as holds a wealth of the market is known stalls consisting for pickpockets. mostly of jewellery, from handmade El Rastro Street woven bracelets Market is definitely from €1 to €5, to silk worth a visit, but, to and silver bracelets make the most of starting at €20. the quirky and quaint offerings, be to get to el sure to stray off the rastro, get beaten track! the metro to La Latina station, Also worth a quick and head browse is the small south. market situated in the Jardines de Follow the crowds - Plaza de España, the you will Muestra de soon find artesania , held it! from 7th July until 56 el Museo deL traje if your purse needs a break from the shop - ping, how about a visit to the Museo del traje , or the Museum of CostUMe, to learn moreabout spanish style through the years.

El Museo del Traje (Museum of Costume) tells exhibition used clothing as an art, centred on the history of western fashion from the 16th themes ‘culture and costume, fabrics and century up to the present day, with hundreds of transparencies, and portrait and canvas’. pieces on display. The museum is home to Lomsianidze indeed sets the bar high for future some early iconic designs by international imaginative exhibitions. fashion couturiers including Jean Paul Note that the musuem’s main guide Gaultier, Gabrielle Chanel , and Christian comes in languages other than Spanish (the dior , and Spanish designers Cristóbal man on reception queried me with “English?” to Balenciaga, Pedro Rodriguez and Elio which I nodded and was handed the English Berhanger . Also on display is a beautiful booklet), however the programme and guide to collection of wedding dresses, some worn by the outdoor exhibition were both in Spanish famous faces, the other dresses made by them. only. The visual aids around the history of dress The history of dress exhibit is enchanting and exhibit have both a Spanish and an English wonderful; think the V&A on a more intimate option. However having limited knowledge of scale. Spanish does not tarnish the experience, as one becomes immersed within the visuals.

El Museo del Traje’s history of fashion is an enthralling means with which to while away a morning or evening, and the temporary exhibitions truly enhance the imaginative and captivating experience. Josie England

Price: €3, certain concessions apply, or free entry with the Madrid Tourist Card.

opening hours: Closed Monday. Tuesday to Satur - day it is open 9.30am-7.30pm, Sundays and Public Holidays 10.00am-3pm.

The Museo del Traje also plays host to nearest metro: Moncloa or Ciudad Universitaria. impressive temporary exhibitions (admission Cuidad Universitaria is slightly closer, but it is a 15 free). Presently on display is the work of artist minute walk from Monloca Station through the Badri Lomsianidze . The exhibit includes university’s beautiful and tranquil greenery. photographs and paintings made using a range For more information visit: http://museodel - of different techniques. Lomsiandze in this traje.mcu.es/index.jsp?lang=eng. 57 Madrid’s NIGHTLIFE

Madrid has commonly been described as the “City that never sleeps” and from personal experience, this is no exaggeration. as the nightlife within Madrid is extremely diverse it would simply be impossible to summarise all aspects of the nightlife in a two page article. however, the aim of this article is to report my personal experiences among the fiesteros (party-goers) in the clubs and bars within the capital city of Spain when the sun sets...

Madrid’s nightlife is incredibly varied – Irish pubs and Salsa bars. If you are it is not just nightclubs. There is unsure where to go, head to Puerta something to suit all tastes, ages and Del Sol, located at the very heart of interests. If nightclubs are not your Madrid, where you will be bombarded thing, don’t worry, there is an with flyers advertising clubs and bars, alternative night culture within Madrid usually offering a free shot or drink. such as coffee cafes and Tapas bars. Once you decide where to go, Tapas bars are extremely popular in the promoter will take you to the Spain and a lot of the nightlife takes club/bar where you pay an entrance place here. They are situated fee. You may be given a stamp or a everywhere, are inexpensive and an voucher which will entitle you to the enjoyable way to start your evening. free shot/drink. Once out, you are spoilt for In a limited amount of time, I choice of pubs, clubs and bars that tried to experience a bit of everything Madrid has to offer. The Madrid that the nightlife of Madrid had to nightlife offers anything from the offer. Read on for my experiences and more expensive commercial clubs, to recommendations...

58 On my first night out in Madrid, I began by surrounded by enthusiastic dancers. If you are entering a delightful Irish pub suitably named female, you will most likely be asked to dance. If “O’Connell” situated on Espoz Y Mina, a street after a few sips of your free cocktail you feel a just off the Puerta Del Sol. I did not try its food, little more confident I suggest you try some salsa dancing it is great fun! If however salsa really isn’t your thing then this bar isn’t for you.

Finally, I wanted to try one of the big commercial clubs so I headed off to Pacha . A word of warning, this is not a cheap night out! Entrance fee is 15 euros plus one free shot. Another piece of advice is to drink before you enter the club as drinks are 12 euros and shots are 5 euros. apparently the “Best Irish food served in all Madrid,” I did however order a Jarra de Sangria (which turned out to be a rather large jug of Sangria suitable for sharing) for only 12 euros. For a cheap place to begin your drinking before you move onto a nightclub this bar is ideal. Shots are 1.50 euros whilst spirits and cocktails are 4.90 euros. The atmosphere is vibrant and the music was chart hits therefore recognisable.

Moving on, I then entered a lively cocktail bar named Commo again situated off of the Puerta Del Sol. Although labelled a cocktail bar it also had a dance floor on both levels. You are entitled to a free shot if you enter with a promoter of the club and spirits and cocktails are averagely priced at 5- 6 euros. The Prior to entrance, you will be instantly atmosphere is great as a result of the variety of impressed by Pacha’s large size, its name lit up good music played (Commo has a live DJ) and in bright lights and the doors supervised by the clientele. It attracts both locals and tourists smartly dressed (although rather surly looking) and is a great place to make friends with other bouncers. There are three levels to this club, all students. with different music played with several bars and sizeable dance floors. However, my One night I fancied trying something a bit experience of Pacha was slightly disappointing. different, so I headed to one of the notorious Perhaps my expectations were too high or Salsa evenings Madrid had to offer. I ended up perhaps I went on the wrong night (I have heard in a Salsa bar named El Son . It is situated at from several people that Saturday is the best Calle Victoria 6, 28012 Madrid again just off of night), but I could not see past the expensive Sol. Entrance fee is 5 euros for women and 6 entrance fee and drinks. Also, because I went on euros for men, this includes a free cocktail. The a rather quiet night they did not open the other atmosphere of El Son is energetic to say the dance floors which probably played a significant least. Upon entrance, your ears are filled with part to my disappointment. As a result, I went the rhythmic beats of Salsa music as you are home fairly early. 59 All in all the nightlife in Madrid is great fun. Things to remember: The nightlife in Madrid What is brilliant about the Madrid nightlife is begins late. The Spanish usually do not eat its variety - whether you’re in the mood for until 11 PM, before moving onto other bars eating tapas and drinking Tinto Verano, or clubs, which are open until 6- 7AM. No salsa dancing the night away or partying one enters a club before 1.30 PM; if you do, until the early hours of the morning- you will you’ll probably be the only one in there! find it here. As a result of the short amount of time I had, unfortunately I could not Also, when partying with the Spanish, you experience everything that Madrid had to must pace yourself! The Spanish tend to eat offer, however I did learn that every night Tapas whilst they are drinking and can out you are guaranteed an enjoyable time, therefore continue to party throughout the the only downside is the morning after night. It is unusual to see drunken Spanish hangover! people staggering around the streets. One night in Madrid... A pub crawl is a great and inexpensive way to experience the hot- spots of the Madrid night-life whilst making new friends along the way. This article is about my particular experience of a pub crawl with a company named MADride who organize pub crawls every night in Puerta Del Sol from 11 pm.

pm our “crazy” guide turned up suitably wearing the red t-shirt and a smile on his face. “Are you all English?” he shouted in a distinctive Latin accent. “Sí,” we replied. “Are you ready to party?” “Sí,” we replied again. “What a great group we have! My name is Alberto (not his real name) - follow me to the first bar where we will meet the others!” He then beckoned us to follow and began to walk On a Saturday night in Madrid Madrid, my friends and I away holding up a red sign you are never stuck without decided that this was the pub saying MADride in yellow things to do. This night crawl for us. letters. however, my friends and I Alberto led us away decided to try one of the many The evening began at 11pm at from the Puerta Del Sol to our pubs crawls witilly titled the meeting point- the famous first bar named Cibeles MADride claiming to provide Bear and Tree Statue in Puerta situated on Calle Hileras. Just us with “3 MAD bars, MAD free Del Sol. All we needed to do outside the entrance of our shots, MAD drinks and free now (according to the leaflet) first destination, Alberto entry to 1 MAD club.” Charmed was to look for a “crazy guide stopped and told us the prices by its attempts to make us wearing the red MADride T- of the pub crawl. As it was our laugh with its play on the word shirt” and so we did. At 11.05 first time we had to pay 10 60 euros each. After payment, we tequila time. When the burning Around 1.30am we made our all received a stamp on our sensation in my throat had way to the final bar of the wrists; this would entitle us to stopped and my eyes had evening, called Sol & Sombra , free entry to the bars and any ceased watering, we moved however it was equally a club discounts on drinks. onto our second bar. as it was bar. I was extremely impressed by its glamorous, Entering Cibeles , I quickly The second bar was called La modern décor of all white walls realised it was more of a disco and fluorescent pale blue and bar. The dance floor was quite lilac lights. It had a sizeable La Comedia ’s web - small however the music was dance floor which my friends site: http://lacomedia - chart hits, and therefore madrid.com/ and I graced with our presence recognisable. As it was fairly once the Black eyed Peas song early (the Spanish are normally Pacha ’s website: “I’ve Got a Feeling” came on. still eating their dinner at 11.30 http://www.pacha- It was 3.00am when Alberto pm) it was relatively quiet. madrid.com/ shouted “time to go!” and However, this just meant rounded us all up to go the I was more likely to be served final destination of the night- quickly at the bar, so I took Comedia . It was a much larger the nightclub. However, we did advantage of my discount, and bar then the previous one and not end up in a club; instead ordered a Vodka y Limón for 3 played catchy R n B music. we were led to the salsa bar El euros. At around midnight Towards the back of the bar Son. more people from other there was a swanky “chill out” The salsa bar was good hostels joined the pub crawl. area with white soft chairs and fun but we did not stay long. The majority were quite young, Shisha pipes. My friends and I By 4.00am we were ready to I’d say around the age of 20- placed ourselves upon the leave and craving greasy food- 25, and very friendly. Once we comfy chairs and split the cost preferably pizza. We said our all got talking, I realised that of a shisha pipe (12 euros) goodbyes to Alberto (who they were from all around the between us. The atmosphere of tried to convince us to stay) world: Mexico, Brazil, Argentina the bar was incredibly chilled and exchanged numbers or and America. In fact, we were as we puffed on our shisha Facebook details with our new- the only English people there, pipe whilst singing along to found chums and headed which made a refreshing “What’s My Name” by Rihanna. toward the nearest pizza place. change. After midnight it was Toni Toms The best live music in Madrid In Madrid you can find live music of many different genres on most nights of the week. There are many bars in the city which have weekly jam sessions, and hold different themed performances each day of the week. Tuesday to Thursday is often the best time of the week to see live music played in bars in an informal setting, whilst at the weekend you might have to pay anything from 5 euros to see a bigger show or more famous musician or group. La Boca del Lobo This bar is one of the best to see quality music in Madrid and has so many different genres there is bound to be something for everyone on any particular night. They have a jam session every Wednesday that could be anything from “Roots & Grooves” to Folk/Indie Rock. They also have a lot of funk/soul bands. Every Thursday, Friday and Saturday there is a club night with either resident DJ Floro who has “no boundaries” and plays in many jazz/funk/soul/blues clubs across Spain, or another guest DJ such as DJ Funkywoman or DJ Javi Skunk. On other nights there is always a DJ on the decks until the early hours of the morning playing Reggae, Ska, Blues, Funk, Afro and much more. Entry is usually free, but if there is a La Boca del Lobo concert or a performance on a particular C/ Echegaray 11 night then you may have to pay from €5 to €10 entry. Drinks are the usual prices for Madrid 28014 Metro: Sol Madrid, a few euros for a beer and about €7 or more for a cocktail or more exciting T: +34 91468 1791 drink. Open: Tues-Sun from 10pm 62 Soul Station

Comedy and live music are mixed in this small but trendy bar in the centre of Madrid. On Wednesdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays the Madrid Comedy Club puts on a show of professional comedians, whose skills range from magic-comedy to sketches, through to improvisations and games with the audience. Every Thursday there is an open mic night which sees a range of Madrid’s talent in whatever specified genre that week. On Soul Station Sundays after the Comedy Club there is an RnB/Soul jam session which is a very chilled Cuesta de Santo Domingo 22 way to end the week. The Comedy Club and Madrid 28013. live acts usually require a 10 or 12 euro entry fee, but it is half price if you book it Metro: Santo Domingo online before the event. The Open Mic T: +34 676 48 20 95 nights on Thursdays and the jam sessions on Sundays are free. Populart Calle de las Huertas 22 The best of Open: 6pm – 2:30am Sun-Thurs, 6pm – the rest... 3:30am Fri & Sat Free entrance Café Central A very relaxed jazz club, it looks a bit like an Irish pub Plaza del Ángel 10 from the outside but in fact offers top quality jazz, blues, and occasionally flamenco. Get there well Open: 1:30pm – 2:30am before the start at 10:15pm or you will be squashed Sun-Thurs, 1:30pm – against the door. 3:30am Fri & Sat El Juglar Calle de Lavapiés 37 Famous for big name performers this is a Open: 9pm – 3am Sun-Wed, 9pm – well-known quality jazz venue around the 3:30am Thurs – Sat world. Also playing mixtures of Latin 5 to 10 euros entrance fusion, blues and classical jazz, there is Bohemian setting, rock music , reggae and folk beats something for everyone’s taste. Starts at are on display in this bar in the district of Lavapiés. 10pm, tickets go on sale an hour before, at DJs appear after the performance to play Latin or 10 to 15 euros. American music. amanda Green 63 Parks and Outdoor Culture

There is a prevalent outdoor culture in Madrid; the city has 33 million square metres of parkland across 40 parks. The appeal is mainly to do with the beautiful weather but also the social nature of the cities inhabitants. “Belle Époque” was the name given to the era (1898- 1914) in which the parks became open to all social classes. During this time parks became very popular with families who would put on their best clothes and head to their favourite spot. The adults would meet there to chat and admire passers-by while the children played. Nowadays the criteria is much the same(except for the best clothes part) and Madrid’s parks are always full of locals and tourists alike. 64 open air Pools

During the day, many Spaniards will go to one of the cities open-air pools, perfect for sunbathing and taking a dip to cool down when the sun gets too hot! The pools are popular with families, groups of teenagers and older couples equally; many have cafés with terraces to get a snack and a drink.

Peñuelas near the Acacias metro station has three pools, one larger L shaped adult’s pool, one child’s pool and a toddler’s pool. There is a large area to sunbathe although there isn’t much shade, as well as a café bar. Entry is €4.35 for an adult ticket, it is very popular and gets crowded, topless sunbathing is allowed here so don’t be shocked if you aren’t used to public displays! If you’d prefer a little luxury near the city centre there is a rooftop pool at The Hotel Emperador. Entry is €27 but includes a waiter service to your poolside lounger where you can admire the cities beautiful people from behind your sunglasses. At Casa de Campo (near Lago) there is another set of pools, two outdoor (an Olympic size and a 25m) and one indoor (also 25m), the 25m outdoor pool is popular with members of the gay community.

Casa de Campo

Casa de Campo, a former royal hunting estate is the largest park near the city centre at over 1800 hectares. It contains Madrid’s zoo, an amusement park, cable cars offering a unique view of Madrid’s most famous buildings, space to walk around and take in the views and wildlife and also the Temple de Debod, an Egyptian temple gifted to Spain in 1968 by the Egyptian government. At night this park is very popular for botellóns, these are informal gatherings of young people, usually aged 14 to 28, to consume alcohol, although drinking in public is illegal these gathering continue none the less as they are a cheaper alternative to bars and nightclubs which often have expensive entrance fees and drinks prices.

Juan Carlos i Park

Juan Carlos I Park is on the outskirts of the city centre on the way to the airport, it is easily accessed by road and metro station: Campo de las Naciones. It is the only park to offer free bike hire to visitors in Madrid. There is a pre-designated route around the park for tourists, which takes in all areas of the park. This route hire is limited to one hour but if you’d prefer to take in the nature at your own pace this is not a problem. Signing up is easy, just register at the rental desk and you will be given a card that is available for use for a whole year.

The park itself contains 20 large sculptures such as a set of stairs that doesn’t lead to anywhere but does provide great views across the 220 hectare park and The Garden of Three Cultures, each garden is inspired by Christian, Jewish and Muslim culture respectively. There is also a Mexican corner and sometimes there are sound and light shows at the Fountain of Cybernetics. 65 Retiro Park

Retiro Park is Madrid’s most famous park, located straight up Acala Street from Puerta de Sol, the nearest metro station is of the same name and the park is within walking distance of the Prado and Naval museums, making it perfect for tourists. The park was originally the playground of King Felipe IV and his court; it was opened fully to the public in 1868. The park houses the Palacio de Cristal, pictured below, a large glass palace in front of a lake full of swans and ducks. Another artificial large lake full of fish and turtles has rowing boats available to hire for around €5, this is located in front of a statue of King Alfonso XII. There are also the Rosealeda Gardens, full of various vari - eties of roses and the statue of “The Fallen Angel”.

There are often street entertainers such as living statues, musicians, palm readers and street sellers offering jewellery, fans etc. On your walk around the park you can stop to have an ice cream in one of the many small stands or possibly a jug of Sangria and a bocadillo (sandwich) in a café, there are plenty to choose from offering a range of food and drink.

For the more active amongst you, there are ample opportunties for exercise. Many of the park’s wide sunny walkways are filled with roller skaters, joggers, cyclists, skate and long board riders. Located within the park is the Chopera Municipal Sports Cen - tre, which has an open-air weight lifting area, tennis, volleyball and courts. By Lisa MacLeod

66 Food and Drink 67 Taste Spain’s Culinary Variety

Spanish people have a mediterranean diet served between 9 a.m. and 12 a.m. and you (typically including a high consumption of can enjoy it in many cafeterias and restaurants. fresh fruit and vegetables as well as olive oil). Lunchtime is traditionally from 2 p.m. to 4 p.m. The breakfast usually consists of coffee, orange The most economical and varied option when juice, white bread rolls or a sweet bun and eating in restaurants is ordering the “ menu del toast. Typical for the Madrilenian breakfast is día ” (daily menu), available in most restaurants. “chocolate con churros ” or “ con porras ” (thick For between €10 and €25 you usually get a hot chocolate with a deep-fried sweet pastry; starter and a main course, including bread, a the thinner ones are called churros , the longer drink and sometimes a dessert or coffee. and thicker ones porras ). The breakfast is Dinner is usually eaten from around 9 p.m. to

Traditional Paella

Try Typical Madrilenian dishes As Madrid is the capital city located in the centre of Spain, its cuisine is influenced by the Spanish provinces. This means you can eat every kind of Spanish food you want. However, the two most typical Spanish dishes of Madrid are “ Cocido Madrileño ” (Madrilenian stew; a traditionally chickpea-based, prepared with vegetables, potatoes and meat) and “ Callos a la Madrileña ” (beef tripe, cooked in a casserole with chorizo, cured ham and black pudding; usually served as a very hot dish in a clay pot). “ Rabo de Toro ” is another famous Madrilenian dish and traditionally served after a bullfight. This stew consists of lightly salted and browned bull's tail combined with garlic, onions, peppers and tomatoes. If you prefer less adventurous but nevertheless typical food, you should go for “ Tortilla Española ” (also called " tortilla de patata " or “potato omelette”; in addition to the authentic tortilla, the variations nowadays also include green pepper, vegetables, chorizo or ham) or try a “Paella ”, which you will also find in different variations (e.g. with seafood, chicken or vegetables). 68 Go for tapas and live the Spanish lifestyle And of course, there is tapas , the delicious cold and hot snacks that for many define Spanish cuisine! But they are more than just finger food and appetizers. Having tapas is a way of eating, it is a part of the Spanish lifestyle and represents the pleasant aspects of life - “ la buena vida ”. Traditionally and still today often served with drinks, they have also found their way on to the menu of most restaurants. You can order them as a “ racion ” (portion) and share with friends. During your stay in Madrid, you will find different tapas consisting of meat from the black Iberian pig. Examples are “ Jamón Ibérico (de Bellota) ” (cured ham), “ Lomo Ibérico ” (cured pork loin), “ Chorizo Ibérico ” or “ Morcilla Ibérica ” (spanish blood sausage)“. Jamón Ibérico is often said to be the best ham in the world and therefore can be quite expensive. Also famous are the “ bocadillos ” (slices of baguette with different toppings), the variety of cheeses (e.g. Queso de Oveja Curado ), the “ croquetas ” (croquettes), pieces of “ tortillas ”, the “Patatas bravas o alioli ” (fried potato pieces served with a spicy sauce or a garlic one) and the “Encontidas ” (pickled vegetables like olives, cucumbers, garlic, sweet onions or capers in vinegar). If you like seafood, tapas like “ calamares ” (calamari), “ Mojama de Atún ” (filleted salt- cured tuna), “ Salmón Ahumado ” (smoked salmon), “ Anchoas en Salazon ” (cured anchovies) or “Boquerones en vinagre ” (marinated anchovies) might be good options for you.

Tapas

Start with an “ aperitivo ” All day long, Madrid’s cafes are busy with locals and tourists alike who have a beer or drink a coffee and watch the world go by. The busiest time to find a table is from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. when the popular bars and terraces will be brimming with people drinking an “aperitivo” (an alcoholic beverage which is drank before a meal) before dinner. Order a “ cerveza ” (beer) or sangria (red wine, lemonade and fruit) to fit in with the crowd. “ Tinto de verano ” (summer wine) is an alternative to sangria, usually less strong and very refreshing! The three drinks will range in price from €1 - €6. “Vermouth” – a fortified wine – often added to coke or lemonade, is another drink often found in the old-fashioned bars in the Chueca and Malasaña areas. 69 What about some specialities? Undoubtedly, Rioja is the most famous Spanish Recommended Places to wine and it is also true in Madrid. It is a good idea when ordering wine to be specific rather have an Aperitivo: that just ordering a glass of “ vino tinto ”. Buzzing: Gran Via However check out the wine list, the popularity of Traditional: Malasaña the “ Rioja ” and “ Ribera Del Duero ” wines means Quirky: Chueca that they might be rather expensive, so go for a City Chic: Plaza de Santa Ana lower price bracket on the wine menu and it Relaxing: El Retiro Park tends to be just as nice. Sherry and Cava are less popular with the younger generation in Madrid, but if you are looking for a speciality around mealtime these are the ones to go for. For the wine enthusiasts, you can sample fine wines including those of the nearby town La Mancha at Lavinia - a wine store in which you can buy a bottle of wine at shop-price and then drink it upstairs in the bar or restaurant. Alternatively you can sample a variety of wines downstairs using the state-of-the art wine dispensers. Top-up the wine card with money at the register and taste as many wines as you like at your own pace. It definitely isn’t the most traditional wine tasting session but is unique and fun just like the city itself!

Common Madrid street with Tapas Bars 70 On the following pages you will find some recommended places to stay and enjoy Madrid’s atmosphere whilst having some tasty food and drink. The first part includes pubs, bars and restaurants which provide value for money. In the second part you will find more exclusive places that might give you a better food experience albeit a more expensive one. Cheaper Eateries

Looking for tapas

If you want to go for tapas, Malsaña neighbourhood in the north of Madrid’s city centre is a good area for you to start in (metro station Noviciado or Tribunal). Begin your walk at Plaza de Dos de Mayo, where you can find a lot of bars and restaurants. A famous insider tip is the bar Casa Julio (Calle Madera 37, open all day). It is an inexpensive place famous for their “croquetas”, where you will meet young and old people as well as locals and foreigners. Also worth a visit is the pub Barbaroi (Calle San Vincente Ferre 32, open only in the evenings). Barbaroi only opened around a year ago but is already a well known place for serving gin and tonic as well as cocktails for a very small price. During the day it is closed and doesn’t leave much impression, but the party gets started as soon as night comes. Other meeting places are the pubs in the Chueca neighbourhood (around the metro station Chueca and in the Calle Augusto Figueroa) to the east of Malasaña. If you are hungry but are not looking for a place to stay for long, you should go to El Tigre (Calle de las Infantas 30, open all day). It is said to be the cheapest but also the most chaotic example of free tapas in Madrid. Order a pint of beer or a Tinto de Verano, and you receive a huge amount of tapas with it. In Huertas (south of Puerta del Sol in the direction of Theatro de Español) you find some atmospheric places where you can order all kinds of typical tapas. Just take a walk around and you will surely find something. Lavapiés nighbourhood in the south-east of Madrid is the multicultural part of the city. Located inconspicuously at the Calle del Ave María (No. 44), but highly recommended, is the pub Melo’s (open Tue-Sat, from 9 p.m. - 2 a.m.). It is an inexpensive place where you get a lot of food for your money. If you order some “zapatillas ” (bocadillo with smoked pork shoulder and cheese, also available with other toppings), you really should be very hungry or share them. And try the croquetas, as they are said to be the best ones in town. If you still have time, go to the Latina neighbourhood (metro station La Latina) in the south-west of Madrid. Around Plaza de la Paja, Plaza Puerte de Moros and in the Cava Baja you can find some nice places to have a drink and food all day long. 71 if you long for a real meal Tapas can fill you up, of course, especially after having done a “ tapeo ”, a tour through different tapas bars. However, if you are still hungry or are looking for a real meal, the following restaurants are good places to try: Value Restaurants

Pozo Real (Calle del Pozo 6, metro station Sol, open every day from 1 p.m. – 1. a.m.) This family-run restaurant has a really nice atmosphere, charming waiters and serves delicious Spanish food. From Monday to Friday from 1 a.m. to 1 p.m. you get a whole menu, including a starter, a main dish, bread, a drink and a dessert or a coffee for only €8.90.

Méson das Meigas (Calle Barbieri 6, metro station Chueca, open from 1 p.m. – 1. a.m.) Located inconspicuously in the street and giving a slightly gloomy impression, at first glance, this typical Gallican eatery is not very charming. But there is a beautifully decorated dining room in the rear part of the restaurant. Also the tapas bar at the front is usually jam-packed at night. In the evening, the Méson das Meigas serves an extensive and tasty menu: some typical tapas to start with, a starter and main course of your choice, bread, a drink, dessert and coffee. And all this for a fabulous €10. A visit is therefore really highly recommended.

Restaurante Sabatini (Calle de Bailén 15, metro station Plaza de España, open daily from 8 a.m. - 2 a.m.) This is a pleasant restaurant with a nice view of the Palacio Real from the terrace. Good menus during lunch time and hot meals (like stuffed pepper or meat balls) for between €7 and €10 available also in the evening. If you do not mind sitting inside at the bar, you can enjoy a beer or a glass of wine with a tapas dish for only €1 during the whole day.

You can get a variety of inexpensive Paellas (around 11 Euros) at the Restaurant Lupita (Gran Via 73, metro station Plaza de España) or in the Cafetería los arcos at the Plaza Mayor (metro station Sol or Opera). Of course they are not the best ones in terms of quality and flavour but are worth it for the price. 72 if you are very hungry... The best places to get a lot of food for a really low price are the buffets libre (all you can eat). There are not as many of them in Madrid as in other cities (e.g. in Barcelona) or rather, they are not located in the most obvious places. But while walking through the city, by and by they seem to appear. The following restaurants provide a really good deal and also offer some Spanish food: Buffets Libre all You Can Eat (Tetuán 20 and Gran Vía 45, www.auce.es, €10), Topolino (Calle de Preciados 50 and Calle de San Andrés, www.topolino.es, between €9 and €13; attention, drinks are not included and quite expensive!) or FresCo (Calle Caballero de Gracia 8 and Calle de Las Fuentes 12, €10). If you are looking for a healthier option, go to Salad&Co (Calle Preciados 36, www.saladandco.es, €10, metro station Callao) or Maoz (Calle Mayor 4, metro station Sol, www.maozusa.com, open daily from 11 a.m. - 2 a.m.). Salad&Co offers not only a huge salad bar and some hot dishes (e.g. tortilla, vegetables, pasta or pizza) in buffet libre style but also the possibility to take away your food box (available in different sizes). At Maoz you get, for around €5, a baked pitta bread filled with hot falafel and the permission, to refill your salad box with ingredients from the salad bar as many times as you want to. By nicole Grab

Salad&Co - Salad and Hot Food Buffet 73 Value Snackeries

Places to grab a snack during the day or after a long night out

Museo de Jamón (Several branches across the whole city, www.museodeljamon.es) Nothing for vegetarians, but really worth a visit for all who love meat. As the name already says, Museo de Jamón is all about ham. Entering the “museum”, you feel like you are in a butcher’s shop. However, you can have tapas, sandwiches or whole meals for a really affordable price. Just remember: Ham will always be an ingredient! You can also buy a picnic to take away. Then you get a “ bocadillo ”, a soft drink as well as a piece of fruit for only €2.

Cervecería de 100 Montaditos (Several branches across the whole city, www.100montaditos.com) This is best described as a beer pub chain, offering beer for €1 and soft drinks for €2 all day and you receive a small “ montadito” (sandwich) to accompany your drink. Also, you can order different “montaditos ” at between €1.50 and €2 each. On Wednesdays, all drinks cost €1 (yes, you read that correctly, €1 for all drinks plus a montadito !) . The locals are really chatty, there is usually a terrace and most branches are located in interesting places where there is a lot to see (e.g. next to Gran Vía or near the Royal Palace). Excellent value for money all round.

Cañas y Tapas (Several branches across the whole city, www.tapaspain.com) Another food chain in Madrid! Although, being there you do not really feel it. Cañas y Tapas try to keep customs alive: The locations are inspired by traditional taverns and “ el tapeo ” is an important part of their philosophy. If you are looking for good typical Spanish food for an acceptable price, go to Cañas y tapas.

Chocolaterías If you have low blood sugar during the day or need some heavy food and drink after a night in the pub, go for ” chocolate con churros ” or “ porras ”. You will find an more economic version at the Chocolatería El Maestro de Churrero (Plaza de Jacinto Benavente, www.maestrochurrero.com, metro station Sol or Tirso de Molina, open during the whole day). However, locals prefer the Chocolatería San Ginés (Calle Arenal 11, metro station Sol, open all day), where it is really worth paying a bit more for your sweet snack. 74 Take a stroll along Calle Los Cuchilleros next to Plaza Mayor in the evening to find some of the most excellent eateries in Madrid... Exclusive and iconic

Even if you cannot afford to eat there, Restaurante Botín is well worth a visit as it is officially the oldest restaurant in the world! Check it out in the Guinness Book of Records. Of all the literary icons that the restaurant professes to have hosted, Ernest Hemingway is by far the most famous. Hemingway often visited the restaurant and was a good friend of the current owner’s father and grandfather. They say that Hemingway took a particular interest in learning how to make paella – but that his cooking skills weren’t up to much compared to his writing! • Speciality Dish: Roast suckling pig or roast baby lamb Botín cooked in an 18th Century style wood burning oven for €22 plus C/de los Cuchilleros side dish. Average price of dish: €18. Don’t forget to add on wine Metro: La Latina and couverts! Tel: (+34) 913 44 42 17 The huge portions, delicious dishes, excellent waiter service and Botin.es enticing atmosphere of Botín are reasons enough to visit this Book a table in advance! famous establishment.

Las Cuevas de Luis Candelas is similar in values to Botín but exceeds it in ambiance, decor and comfort. There is something nostalgic about the cosy windowless brick valted ‘cave’ in which you relax, a throwback to a former time when, as legend has it, the Las Cuevas de Luis Can - famous bandit Luis Candelas used those very caves as a hide-out. delas • Speciality Dishes: Roast piglet or roast lamb cooked in an C/de los Cuchilleros Arab oven with oak wood, meats, fishes, the stew-pot and typical Metro: La Latina desserts from Madrid. Tel: (+34) 913 66 54 28 The open fire and candle lighting make this restaurant perfect for Lascuevasdeluiscande - an Autumn or Winter evening in Madrid. It is recommended to las.es order the specialities here, rather than the same old Spanish Book a table in advance! omelette which you could get for cheaper elsewhere.

Venture down the backstreets in the day to discover authentic fine Spanish cafes...

Chocolatería San Ginés is open all day long, Chocolatería San Ginés • Speciality: Chocolate con churros for €3.70. Pasadizo de San Ginés Located on a calm street, you can dine inside or outside. Metro: Sol Recommended is to visit this cafe for breakfast or for a late night snack, not around meal times as although the speciality dish is delicious it is rich! You may have to order a drink alongside it. Just turn up!

75 Café Gijón Dubbed as ‘the greatest cafe in the history of Spain’, from its founding days in 1888 it has been a regular haunt for poets, artists and writers alike and cannot be missed if you are an arty student interested in the bohemian past of Madrid. Famous people who frequented this café include Federico Garcia Lorca, Ruben Dario, Antonio Machado and Perez Café Gijón Galdo. Paseo Recoletas • Recommended: Weekday lunch menu €12 for 3 courses plus Metro: Chueca drink. Tel: (+34) 915 21 54 25 Imagine a Spanish version of Betty’s Tearooms: light meals that are Cafegijon.com overpriced but compensated for by the memorable environment. Just turn up! A must for those searching for a classy place to eat.

and Finally...... Enjoy The Taste of Madrid! By annabel Ross

To keep in mind: • Walking through the streets you will see several people distributing flyers with special offers from different restaurants. These might give you more ideas about where to fill your stomach. • Often restaurants do not look very appealing from the outside but are really worth a visit. So if you have the chance, ask around and listen out. Madrilenian people are quite helpful and usually like giving you some good tips. • Be aware that some restaurants still promote their daily menu in the evening, although they only serve it for lunch. So it is best to ask first before you sit down and are forced to choose from the normally much more expensive courses on the menu. • Sometimes there is a price difference, depending on whether you eat your meal at the bar, in the restaurant or on the terrace. And in some restaurants the bread will be charged sepa - rately, although they serve it without asking you before. • Pubs and bars often do not come alive before 9 p.m. So some of the places mentioned above might be quite empty during the day or even closed. • Compared to other big cities, you will not find many places offering foreign fast food or take away possibilities. Also take-away and picnics in general do not seem to be popular in Madrid. Going for tapas is normally the preferred option. Furthermore, apart from some parks there are not too many nice places to sit down for a picnic. • And finally, in tourist areas like the centre part around Puerta del Sol or along Gran Vía you will of course – as everywhere in the world - find the big fast food chains like McDonalds, Burger King, KFC or the Pans&Company. They definitely do not give you the real Madrilenian feeling, but can be seen as a compromise when you are really fed up with looking for some other restaurants. 76 People and Life

77 A Typical Night in, Madrid Style: When in Madrid…

...do as the Spaniards do! During your time in this wonderful city, why not recover from your hangover by spending a classically Spanish evening with friends, enjoying good food, drink and entertainment, without having to leave your accommodation or spend much money! Read on to find out more! 78 The dish – Paella with chicken and vegetables Despite paella being renowned as a national delicacy of Spain, it actually originated as a regional dish of Valencia in the mid-19th Century. The word paella in Valencian in fact refers to all saucepans used for cooking, however in Spain the term paellera more specifically refers to the shallow steel pan in which this dish is made. Paella is traditionally made with either seafood, meat and/or vegetables – this recipe specifically instructs the use of chicken and vegetables, which can be substituted for different ingredients if desired. In addition, if the paellera is not available, substitute this for a large frying pan or wok, which should produce the same result! Paella ingredients (serves 4) 2 tablespoons of cooking oil 1 large green pepper 1 onion 1 tin of peas 12 small chicken legs 1 packet of short-grain white paella rice 1 carton of Sopa de Pollo (chicken stock) 1 tin of chopped tomatoes Pinch of saffron

instructions 1. Heat the oil in the paellera (or frying pan/wok). 2. Chop green pepper and onion and gently fry in the oil. 3. Stir in the peas. 4. Add the chicken and fry until golden brown in colour. 5. Add 3 cups of rice to the mixture and gently heat through for 3 minutes. 6. Mix 6 cups of the chicken stock into the paella (always allow 2 cups of chicken stock per 1 cup of rice). 7. Cover the mixture with the chopped tomatoes. 8. Add a pinch of saffron to give the dish its traditional golden colour. 9. Allow the ingredients to simmer for 20 minutes – do not stir! 10. Serve the dish in the pan used for cooking.

Amongst the natives, the most important part of a successful paella is the toasted layer of rice at the bottom of the pan, called the socarrat . It is essential the dish is not stirred during cooking to ensure this layer forms, which gives the overall toasted aroma and sticky texture that is typical of this delicacy. 79 The drink – Sangria Sangria is a punch which is most widely associated with Spain, and is effortless and inexpensive to produce. It can be bought ready-made in cartons from supermarkets, to which chopped fruit can simply be added; alternatively you could buy a cheap bottle of red wine and add lemon juice to make your own version! Sangria ingredients 1 litre of sangria (shop bought carton, or if making your own, bottle of red wine and freshly squeezed lemon juice) 4 tablespoons of brown sugar Chopped fruit of your choice – we used 2 oranges, 1 peach and 1 apple If desired, a spirit of your choosing, such as whisky, rum or gin Ice cubes

instructions

1. Pour sangria mixture into a bowl. 2. Stir in four tablespoons of brown sugar. 3. Chop fruit into edible sized pieces and add to the mixture. 4. Stir into the mixture 1 shot of liqueur/spirit (if desired). 5. Add plenty of ice, and keep cool until serving into glasses with a ladle or wooden spoon.

Recommendable variations of this drink are tinto de verano (red wine of summer) or calimocho . Tinto de verano can also be bought ready made, and is produced by adding 1 part red wine to 1 part lemonade. It is an extremely refreshing, watered down version of sangria, and is served in a tumbler with a slice of lemon and plenty of ice. Calimocho is an infamous drink amongst the younger members of the region, and is formulated by adding 1 part red wine to 1 part coke! Again, this can be bought from bars, or bottled in supermarkets, and is so popular that experts have now specifically recommended types of wine that blend with the distinguishable flavour of coke! 80 The entertainment Rápido is an exciting card game generally played by two players, but could include other players if necessary. As the name suggests, the game is very fast and can take a while to adjust to the pace. The aim of the game is to get rid of your cards as quickly as possible so pay attention to your hand!

It is important to note that Spanish cards ( barajas ) are different to those that you may be more familiar with; there are still four suits (known as palos), and these are: the swords, the gold coins, the sticks and the wine cups [see picture 1]. Card numbers in play are 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10, 11, 12 – cards 8 and 9 are not used, much like our jokers. Rápido instructions for Rápido (based on a game between 2 players) The cards are dealt and four cards are placed face-up in front of each player, the remaining cards divided between the players and placed to the side, face-down. To begin play, each player must simultaneously take the top card from the deck to their side, turn it over and place it in the middle, between the players.

There are no ‘turns’ in this game, it is every man for himself and the player must be the fastest to place one of their corresponding cards from the four in front of them on top of one of the cards placed in the middle of the play area. For example, if one of the cards in the middle was a 1, a 2 or a 12 could be placed on top of it; if there was a 2 in the middle, a 3 or a 1 could be put down.

Whenever a card is removed from the four lined up in front of each of the players, it must be replaced by one from the deck to the side, so that four cards are always being played with. If at any time the cards in the middle show the same numbers, the player who did not place the last card must take all the cards in the middle and add them to their deck at the side.

It is, of course, sometimes the case that neither player will have a corresponding card to add to either of the piles in the middle, and in this instance, play must start from the beginning, with each player taking the top card from the deck at the side and placing it face-up in the middle of the playing area. By Fiona Smout 81 Siesta!

The traditional Spanish Siesta – is it still alive?

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By nicole Grab 84 Sports in Madrid Football Many of the world´s greatest ever players have turned out in the all- white strip at the Estadio Santiago Sol, Sol, Sol!! Gol, Gol, Gol!! Bernabeu including: Alfredo di Two things Madrid is synonymous Stefano, Ferenc Puskas, Emilio with: sunshine and Real Madrid Butragueno, Hugo Sanchez, C.F.. The city´s obsession with Clarence Seedorf, Zinedine football is quite clear around the Zidane, David Beckham, Raul, city as you pass many sports and Ronaldo, Figo, and Roberto Madrid´s second club Atletico souvenir shops filled with replica Carlos. The current squad includes Madrid are perpetually in the shirts of the two Madrid teams, global names such as Cristiano shadow of their cross-city rivals Real and Atletico, as well as Ronaldo, Kaka and club captain but do boast a decent, if current European champions F.C. . Barcelona. unremarkable, history themselves and are regarded as one of Spain´s biggest clubs. Los The city of Madrid is home to Real As a club Real Madrid is the Colchoneros (The Mattress Madrid in the North and Atletico richest in the world in terms of Makers, due to their red and white Madrid to the South whilst the revenue (€438.6m) and second in striped strip) have won the Liga outskirts of the city also houses terms of value ($1.4m in 2011). BBVA 9 times and the Copa del two other Liga BBVA teams in the This financial strength has Rey 9 times including a double in shape of growing club Getafe and allowed the club to continually 1996. Following this success in newly-promoted . break world transfer records for 1996 the club suffered financial players, paying £37m in 2000 for troubles and succumbed to By far the most successful of Figo, £46m in 2001 for Zinedine relegation in 1999 before these teams is Real Madrid. The Zidane, £56m in 2009 for Kaka returning to the top tier two club was awarded the honour of and the current record £80m in seasons later. Since, the club has the 20th century´s greatest club 2009 for Cristiano Ronaldo. side by FIFA and the club has enjoyed a resurrection as one of Spain´s strongest club sides, amassed a remarkable 31 Spanish Los Merengues (named for their including playing in the European league titles (or Liga BBVA), 18 all-white strip) play their home Champions League in the 2008- Spanish cups (or Copa del Rey) games in the 80,000 seater 09 season. and a record 9 European Cups. Estadio Santiago Bernabeu and The latest of these was won in the Spanish Liga BBVA season Atletico´s most notable former 2002 after a 2-1 win over German runs from August to May. There is players include Abelardo and Luis side Bayer Leverkusen at a tour of the stadium available for Aragones whilst the current squad Hampden, with French tourists at any time of the year includes South American stars legend Zinedine Zidane volleying regardless of the football season. Diego Forlan and Sergio Agüero. the winning goal. Fans can take in a breathtaking Atletico Madrid play their home panoramic view from the highest matches at the Estadio Vicente tier as well as entry to the Calderon, capacity 55,000. There museum, trophy room, press is also a tour available as well as a room and the pristinely managed club museum and shop. Bernabeu pitch. By George Cran 85 Basketball

Basketball is Spain´s second sport and Madrid is home to two ACB teams in and Estudiantes. Real Madrid Baloncesto is the basketball section of Real Madrid C.F. and like their footballing colleagues are regarded as the most successful team in Spain and Europe. They have 30 league championships to their name, including 7-in-a-row and 10-in-a-row sequences, and have also won a record 8 Championships.

Former star players include Drazen Petrovic, Antonio Diaz-Miguel and Drazen Dalipagic. Since 2010 they play at Caja Magica (The Magic Box), capacity 12,500 seats.

Madrid also houses another big basketball team called Estudiantes, one of the most recognised teams in Spain and have 3 Spanish cups to their name as well as finishing runners-up in the Spanish league championship four times. They play their home games at Palacio de Deportes, capacity 15,000.

Tennis Other Sports

The first week of May every year sees the The Madrid Masters is a European Tour golf world´s top tennis players descend on Madrid tournament that takes place at Real Sociedad for the Mutua Madrileña Madrid Open Hipica Espanola at Casa de Campo. The tournament held at Caja Magica. 2011´s men´s current champion is Englishman and current tournament was won by current world number World No.1(as of July 24, 2011) Luke Donald one (as of July 4, 2011) Novak Djokovic beating and past winners are Ross McGowan of Spain´s Rafael Nadal. In previous years the England and Charl Schwartzel of South Africa. trophy has been won by Rafael Nadal, Roger For horseracing fans summer races are held at Federer and Andy Murray. 2011 saw Petra Hipodromo La Zarzuela, 5 miles/7.5km from Kvitova beat Victoria Azarenka to take the the city centre. Madrid also host motorsport at ladies championship whilst Aravane Rezai and Circuito Permanente Del Jarama located on the Dinara Safina won in 2010 and 2009 Autovia A1. The city hosts two major running respectively. events, The and the San Silvestre Vallecana and historically, the city serves as the final stage of the Vuelta a España cycling event much as Paris hosts the final stage of the Tour de France.

Participant Sports

Madrid provides facilities for an enormous amount of sports to visitors within the city and also in the surrounding countryside. Amenities and information for tennis, polo, squash, swimming, bowling and horse riding can be found at the Instituto Municipal de Deportes at Casa de Campo. The Club de Campo Villa de Madrid includes tennis courts and stables with horses for hire as well as a golf course.

86 Venue Details

Name: Estadio Santiago Bernabeu Address: Paseo de los Melancolicos Calle de la Virgen del Puerto Telephone: +34 91 344 00 52 Price: Match tickets are variable, Stadium tour: €16 for Adults, €12 for Children Metro: Santiago Bernabeu

Name: Estadio Vicente Calderon Address: Telephone: +34 91 366 47 07 Price: Match tickets are variable, Stadium tour: €10 for adults, €5 for under 12s Metro: Piramides

Name: Caja Magica Address: Madrid Espacios y Congresos. C/ Camino de Perales, s/n. 28041 Madrid (España) Telephone: + 34 917 220 400 Metro: San Fermin-Orcasur e-mail: [email protected]

Name: Palacio de Deportes Address: AVENIDA FELIPE II, S/N, 28009 Madrid Telephone: 00034914 44 99 49 ‎ Metro: Goya

87 Bull fighting: fine art or blood sport?

Bull fighting, or corrida de toros as it is known Stage 1 in Spanish, is perhaps another archetypal element of Spanish culture and tradition. To notify the audience of the start of each new However, many would argue that it is now time stage of the proceedings, a bugle will be to leave this archaic spectacle in the past, sounded. The participants then enter the advocating the lack of welfare for the animals stadium in a parade or paseíllo , accompanied involved. It is certainly an experience of pomp by band music in order to pay homage to the and pageantry, which is viewed by the steadfast audience and presiding judge of the fight. The supporters as an opportunity to judge the bull will then enter the arena, and the bravery and technique of the participants, banderilleros take turns in angering and rather than focus on the inevitable outcome of weakening the animal by flourishing the gold the event: the death of the bull. and magenta capote (cape) before it. Interestingly, bulls are colour-blind, and As it is practiced today, bull fighting involves although a red cape is used in the final stage of three stages or tercios which are methodically the proceedings, this is more as a tradition than followed through by the toreros (bull fighters) . having the stereotypical effect of causing anger The toreros, depending on their amount of to the bull. experience aim to elicit an emotional connection with the audience by performing manoeuvres within close range of the bull, which can put the torero at risk, thus demonstrating the extent of their courage. The important players to note are the banderilleros (instantly recognisable in their brightly coloured costumes, complete with pink socks to coincide with the colouring of the cape used); who “warm-up” the animal for the three matadores (dressed in gold), who will each fight two bulls. Also noticeable are the picadors (lancers on Next to join the action are the two horseback) , and mozo de espadas (sword page) . picadors, dressed mutely with steel guards protecting their feet; the horses on which they enter are also covered with a protective padding known as peto and are in addition blindfolded. Shockingly, the picadors will then stab the bull with a vara (lance) , which can be quite a prolonged process as the bull will often attack the horse, and in some instances, push it to the ground using its horns. This procedure is intended to diminish the bull’s resistance, encouraging the animal to charge at a single target and lower its head so that the matador can easily perform his final task. 88 Stage 2 performed particularly well, and in turn, the Now that the bull is suitably riled up, the judge may award him with a trophy appendage banderilleros will each attempt to launch two (such as the ear or tail) of the dead animal. If for banderillas (sharp coloured sticks) into the any reason the bull is noticeably infirm or has bull’s shoulders, without being gored in the been considered to have fought bravely by the process. This evidently continues to weaken the judge, it is occasionally spared and returned to bull’s ability to fight, and aesthetically the bull is the original ranch, where it can live the rest of sadly an outlet for the bullfighters to prove their its days as a stud bull. worth and ability to the onlookers.

Stage 3 Finally the matador enters the ring alone with the traditional red cape in order to prepare the animal for the kill and to demonstrate his domination over the creature by keeping the garment close to his body. Certain matadors like to prolong the animal’s suffering and intensify the crowd by allowing this stage to be drawn out. This is in order to receive the appreciation of the spectators, who will wave white handkerchiefs if they feel the matador has

Where to go... address: Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, c/Alcalá 237, Madrid, 28028 opening hours: Every Sunday in March to October and daily during Fiesta San Isidro – 9 days commencing from the second Friday in May; from 19:00 – 23:00 Price: Ranging from €3 - €100 depending on where you sit, who is performing and whether you want a seat in the sol (sun) or sombra (shade) – we paid €5 and had a good view in the shade Website: www.las-ventas.com nearest Metro station: Ventas (lines 2, 5) Buses: 12, 21, 38, 53, 106, 110, 146 Telephone: (0034) 91 356 22 00 nB: The stadium also has its own museum, which is open every Tuesday – Sunday from 10:00 – 13:30, €7 adults, €5 children

Author’s note... Bull fighting is a controversial subject on which everyone has an opinion. Whilst I have tried to remain as objective as possible within this article, it is evident that my feelings on the “sport” have seeped through to some extent. If you decide to watch a bull fighting match, my advice is this: go with an open mind, be aware of the outcome, be a part of the atmosphere, and then choose whether you are for or against it. For me, one experience of the event was enough to last a lifetime! Fiona Smout 89 "¿hombres o dioses?", men or gods? it's the title of an exhibition organized by the Museo arqueológico Regional (Regional archeological Museum) in alcalá de henares. But it's also what comes to our mind when we think of the people who make a city great. Because a city might be places, and palaces, and roads, and monuments. But it's first of all its people. Everyday people, who make that world go round with their hard work, with their smiles and tears, with what they build, and eat, and write, and love, and share and whatever they do every single day. People forgotten by history, and yet indispensable. and then there are the ViPs, the ones who left a bigger mark, the ones you wish you could be, or at least you could meet. Men and women or gods and goddesses?

A VIP Like A Day

in every city there is an aura left by these Very important Persons. We have tried to follow it in Madrid. Come and join us... 90 A nice way to start our tour could be by visiting the Barrio de las Letras in the city centre, where the most important figures of Spanish literature used to live. If we come from Plaza Mayor, we can first stop for a few moments in Calle Mayor where, at number 61, lived Pedro Calderón de la Barca (photo 1). The great dramatist, poet and writer of the also died here in 1681. From Calle Mayor we proceed to Carrera de San Jeronimo, where we find, on the right, Calle de la Vega. From there, we easily reach Calle Cervantes, which takes its name from the man who is still probably the most famous of the Spaniards of any time: here, at number 2 of the street, which was called at that time Calle de Leon, lived and died Miguel de Cervantes, “father” of the most funny and sad Hidalgo of all history, Don Quijote de la Mancha. There is not only a plaque on the building, but also an inscription, in golden letters, on the pavement, paying homage to the illustrious guest of the house that once occupied this place(photo 2).

Not much further, in the same street, we find the house-museum of another big name of Spanish literature, Felix Lope de Vega. The writer lived here in the last 25 years before his death, which occurred in 1635. The museum is open to visitors from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. and the entrance is free. If you wish, you can spend the rest of the morning here, and then go back near Plaza Mayor for a very special lunch: the address is Calle de Cuchilleros 17, where you will find the Restaurante Botin(photos 3&4), certified by the Guinness Book of Records as the most ancient restaurant in the world. A frequent guest here used to be Ernest Hemingway, and actually on the website of the restaurant (www.botin.es) you can find a Ruta Hemingway (Hemingway tour) and more ideas to visit Madrid on the footsteps of legendary names who left a mark on the city. However, the restaurant is certainly not one of the cheapest in Madrid (the House Menu, for instance, is 43,10€), so you might just want to have a look at it from outside. But if you have a chance to get into it, it is worth a visit. 91 In the afternoon we move to Chueca, the gay district, which is also, as often happens, a haven for artists and creative souls. It's not surprising that here, in Calle de la Reina, painter Francis Bacon used to get drunk. In the same calle, you will also find a plaque to inform you that Victor Hugo resided here for one year(photo 1). And from Quasimodo's father another street nearby takes its name. If you are a cinema lover, this is the district for you. The legend says world-wide known director Pedro Almodovar lives here. We don't know if it's true, but it seems he has been seen many times around here. Another place for cinephiles is La Bardemcilla, the restaurant owned by the Bardem family (Oscar winner Javier, married to Penelope Cruz, sister Mónica, brother Carlos, mother Pilar...) where tapas and raciones bear names from Bardem films (mostly Javier's) such as Croquetas Jamón-Jamón.You will find it in Calle Augusto Figueroa, 47.

But before that, why not do some shopping? The place for you to go is Have A Nice Day (or HAND), in Calle 26. In one of the dressing rooms we find the intriguing information that Princess Letizia tried on some dresses here... before becoming a princess, of course(photo 2). The shop actually is French, and not cheap, but neither is it as expensive as you would expect from a place where such a celebrity buys (or used to buy, or at least try on) her clothes. The dresses are quite pretty and the setting is very nice. It is definitely worth a visit. Absolutely not to be missed by wannabe princesses: it might bring you luck. Now, if you finished your tour earlier than expected, or wish to continue tomorrow, the best thing to do is to go back where we started with the "men or gods" question, on Alcalá de Henares. According to the tradition, it's here that Cervantes was born and spent the first three years of his life (photos 3&4). What is believed to be his family's house is today a museum re-enacting the life of the people in the two-story building, and exhibiting various editions of his master work. To get there, take a train of the Cercanias at the luxuriant Atocha station, you'll be there in less than an hour. And if Cervantes' house is not enough to push you to visit this friendly town, be aware that here, at the Archbishop's Palace, took place the first meeting between Christopher Columbus and Elizabeth the Catholic. Believe it or not, the American Dream was born here. By Selene Verri 92 Presenting the Madrid City Travel Review Team 2011

Back row, left to right: Toni Toms, Karina Stoltz, Josie England, Hannah Shaddock, Mariña Camba, George Cran, Lisa MacLeod

Front row, left to right: Francesca Bonetti, Amanda Green, Nicole Grab, Pablo Perez, Fiona Smout, Selene Verri, Annabel Ross

Asihwarya Das (inset) Aurelie Crombé (not pictured)

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