A Traveler's Handbook

A Traveler’s Handbook

Caravan-Serai Tours, Inc. 206-545-1735 3608 Whitman Ave. N 800-451-8097 Seattle, WA 98103 Fax: 206-547-8607 www.caravan-serai.com [email protected] Dear Caravan Serai Traveler:

We are very pleased that you have chosen to join us in your journey to Iran. We expect your trip to be a fun and personally enriching adventure.

Part of our program is designed to be educational for you, so we have written this booklet as a guide to prepare you and ultimately enhance your travels to the region. When any of us travel and see different societies, cultures, landscapes, people, and communities around the world, our perspectives and worldviews change forever. We have suddenly become bi -cultural as we observe and maybe practice the way other people do things. All of the world’s people have generally the same aims - a shelter, food, partner in life, daily ritual, a better life for our children - the fun of travel is to discover how different cultures apply these basic needs.

As you read our tips, we hope most of your questions will be answered. If not, please call us and ask us. We can add your suggestions to our future handbooks.

Please remember: you are one of a select number of Americans who will have the opportunity of traveling in Iran. Tell your friends and relatives about this wonderful area of the world where history begins at the year 10,000 BC and is today full of vibrancy and good times.

Rita Zawaideh President, Caravan-Serai Inc. 3806 Whitman Ave. N Seattle, WA 98103 800-451-8097 or 206-545-1735 www.caravan-serai.com

Caravan Serai Tours, Inc.

Table of Contents

Introduction to Iran 3

Practical Matters 4 Weather What to Wear Business Hours Money Photography Customs Time Food Packing Tips

Places to Visit 8

Map of Iran 10

Religions of the Middle East 11

How to Bargain 13

The Persian Language in Iran 15

The Farsi Alphabet 16

Music in the Middle East 17

Gift Giving in the Arab Countries 18

Please be Forewarned 19

Suggested Reading 20

Updated Feb 2005

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Introduction to Iran

With a history that goes back at least a dozen millennia, Iran is truly a cradle of civilization. In the late 4th and early 3rd millennia BC the Elamite civilization rose in the lowland Khuzistan, in the southwest of Iran. In the late 2nd millennium BC the Iranians, migrating southward from central Asian Steppes, began to settle in the Iranian Plateau. By the mid 9th century BC two major groups of people rose to be the dominant forces on the plateau: the Medes and the Persians. In 550 BC the Persians defeated the Medes and the Archaemenid kings appeared on the scene. Their dynasty was followed by the Parthian and Sassanian dynasties. In 652 AD Muslim armies defeated the Sassanians and the vast majority of Iranians converted to Islam. The Saffarids were the first independent Iranian Muslim rulers after the Arab conquest.

Successive dynasties rose and fell, attempts were made at an Iranian renaissance, but eventually, by the end of the 19th century, the country had fallen into decay under the Qajar dynasty. By 1925, the last Qajar ruler was re- moved and power went to the Pahlavis. Mohammad Reza Pahlavi took power in 1941 after his father, Reza Shah Pahlavi, stepped down.

Known as “the Shah” (king), Mohammad Reza Pahlavi promoted literacy, voting rights for women, and industriali- zation. In 1963 he launched a program of land reform and social and economic modernization known as the “White Revolution.” But increasing opposition to the Westernizing and secularization of the country, coupled with the increasing use by the Shah of the secret police, called the Savak, to stifle opposition, led to widespread riots and strikes in 1978. The Ayatollah Khomeini led demonstrations against the government, which soon col- lapsed with the departure of the Shah, and the establishment of the Islamic Republic of Iran soon followed.

When the Shah was admitted to the United States for medical treatment, Iran’s revolutionaries responded by seizing the U.S. Embassy in Tehran and holding its personnel hostage until January 1980. Demands that the Shah be returned to Iran in exchange for the hostages were not met. The Shah moved to Panama and then to Egypt, where he died in July 1980. Many Iranian policies, including the alleged sponsorship of terrorism, alienated most Western nations during the 1980’s. Iran has begun rebuilding its relations with the US and Europe, a process sure to be slow, making progress, nonetheless.

The late 1970’s and 1980’s were tumultuous times for Iran, both internally and externally. War broke out with Iraq in 1980, motivated by tensions that had arisen between the two countries following the 1979 revolution and by a dispute over the Shatt al Arab (a waterway between the two countries) and several islands. Eight years of war devastated the economy before a cease-fire was declared in 1988.

The Iranian population is very diverse. One-half of the Iranian population is ethnic Persian, and Azerbaijanis con- stitute the largest minority group. Other minorities include the Gilaki, Mazandarani, Kurds, Arabs, Lur, Baluchi, and Turkmen. Nomadic life has always played a role in traditional Iranian society, and more than 10 percent of the population is nomadic or semi-nomadic, including the Lur, Bakhtiari, Shahsevan, and Qashqa’i.

Iran is also a culturally rich country. Traditional arts range from carpet weaving to pottery to world-renowned poets. Carpets are among the most popular traditional crafts, and each city has a distinctive style. Calligraphy is another highly developed and cherished art form.

Iran it dotted with an array of architectural styles, from distinctive Persian designs to Arab, and Greek. Each of the ruling dynasties left their mark on the buildings constructed during their reign. Zoroastrian and other religious influences, as well as the blending of the various dynastic styles are evident in the construction and decora- tion of the ruins that have survived.

Iran is a delight to the visitor. Largely untouched by western tourists, the country offers a warm and sincere welcome. Past political differences should not stand in the way of an exciting and enlightening experience in this wondrous, ancient country.

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Practical Matters

Weather Iran encompasses a wide range of climates. There is seacoast along the Persian Gulf in the south and the Caspian Sea in the north, desert, and towering mountain. Likewise, the weather is varied from region to region. Below is a temperature guide for the major cities throughout the season.

Temperatures Spring Summer Fall Winter (In Fahrenheit) (Max-Min) (Max-Min) (Max-Min) (Max Min) Tehran 70 / 46 95 / 70 75 / 43 50 / 23 Isfahan 68 / 43 95 / 68 74 / 50 50 / 17 Shiraz 72 / 74 94 / 52 78 / 48 56 / 34 Caspian Regions 64 / 36 84 / 68 76 / 75 56 / 33 Hamadan 61 / 36 91 / 56 70 / 34 39 / 16

What to wear? According to Islamic law and social beliefs, it is necessary for all ladies to have hejab, which means modest dress. Please see the section on Packing Tips for more detailed information.

Banking Hours and Currency Banks are open from 8:30 am to 4:00 pm Saturday to Wednesday and 8:30 am to 11:30 pm Thursday. Friday is a public holiday.

The currency is the Rial. 10 Rials make 1 Toman. Foreign currencies should be declared upon arrival on a special form. Exchange of these currencies is possible though Bank Melli of Iran, over 80 banks operate in the country and transactions are performed efficiently and at a low cost.

Credit cards are not used, unless you are buying a carpet. The transaction will be processed through a bank in another country, Dubai or Shanghai for example. Travelers’ checks are not ac- cepted anywhere, even at the banks. Bring cash in smaller denominations. Our local guide will usually change money for you, or you can do it at the hotels. No ATM machines are available.

Photography In some societies, people are uncomfortable being the subject of a tourist’s photographs. It may also be forbidden to take pictures of people (particularly women), buildings, museums, etc. In particular, refrain from photo- graphing anything that may be associated with the military, government, police, etc. Always ask your guide or host, or the intended subject if it is permissible to take a photograph. Please obey the instruction of your guide if they tell you a particular subject is off limits for photography. Failure to do so can create a very unpleasant situation for you and everyone in your group.

Be sure to bring plenty of film as it can be hard to find, and expensive. Also, remember to bring spare batteries for your camera.

It is also fun to bring a few photos of family and home to show people. Be sensitive to the conservative attitudes of the people you will meet and avoid bringing pictures of couples openly showing affection, people in swimsuits, and women in revealing clothing. It may well not be an issue, but it is better to be safe and avoid an embarrassing moment for both you and your acquaintance.

If you bring a Video Camera, you may need declare it on your passport upon arrival; otherwise you will end up paying taxes at customs upon your departure. Your tour representative can help you with this.

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Customs All passengers entering the country can have reasonable goods of personal nature and of reasonable quantities.

The following items are prohibited from entry:

 Alcoholic Beverages  Narcotic/illegal drugs  All Fire-arms  Obscene articles and publications

The penalty for bringing any of these items into the country is severe and we can- not help you if you are caught. See the section titled “Please Be Forewarned”. If you do carry these items you jeopardize not only yourself, but the group you are traveling with, our local coordinator in Iran and Caravan-Serai Tours.

For those departing Iran you are allowed the following free for export:

 One piece of carpet or two rugs (3 sq. M) (Check with locals for current allowances)  Maximum of 150 grams of gold  Unlimited amount of Iranian handicrafts  A reasonable quantity of cigarettes

Time Local time of the capital, Tehran, is 3 ½ hours ahead of GMT.

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Food in Iran All provinces of Iran have their own dishes and specialties. However, the national dish is rice prepared in several special ways and served in vast helpings with almost every main dish. Iranian rice from the rainy plains of Mazandara and Guilan is considered by many – not only Iranians- to be one of the world’s finest.

Chelo is rice prepared in several stages over a 24-hour period, boiled and steamed and served separately. Polo is rice cooked with the other ingredients. Rice in general is called berenj.

Rice is always fluffy and tender, never sticky and soggy. Often the cook will steam chelo rice with yogurt or an egg yolk to make a crunch golden crust (tah dig) at the bottom of the pan, which is broken up and served on the top of the rest of the rice. Saffron is very frequently used to flavor and color rice.

Soft drinks are served in bottles. Tea is served in see-though glasses, never with milk. Tea is an integral part of hospitality in Iran. Coffee is not widely available and is usually expensive.

Fruits are served at almost all ceremonies and occasions. Second to tea, seasonal fruits are another integral part of hospitality.

Every province has its own specialty for making sweets, biscuits and candies. Sweets made of dates, rice and many other fruits and substances are very common in Iran and people appreciate good sweets.

Some of the best-known Iranian meals are:

Abgusht, Lamb Stew - Abusht in Persian means the water of the meat.

Ash, an Iranian Soup - There are many different kinds of Ash: Ash-e Anar is Pomegranate soup, Ash-e Reshteh is noodle soup and there are many other.

Chelo Kabab, Rice with Broiled Lamb- the secret to a good Chelo Kabab lies in the marinating of the meat. The meat should be marinated for a day or two in onion juice or sometimes yogurt. There is an old tradition of how one should eat Chelo Kabab. The proper way of serving it is to put plenty of chelo in a plate, make a small hole in the center of it, put an egg yolk in it, then plenty of butter, the broiled kabab, and a teaspoon or two of sumac over it. Mix these ingredients well and start eating. This may sound odd but is extremely delicious.

Dolmeh Barg, Stuffed Grape Leaves- Dolmeh Barg literally means stuffed leaves. Dolmeh can be severed warm, stuffed with meat rice, currents, or cold, stuffed with rice in oil.

Khoresh, Sauces for Pilafs, - Khoresh in Persian stands for a stew type of sauce which is usually prepared with meat or fowl combined with fresh or dried vegetables, fresh or dried fruit, and sometimes nuts and cereals

Some examples of Khoresh are: Khoresh-e Esfanaj – Spinach Sauce, Khoresh-e Gharmeh – Mushroom Sauce, Khoresh-e – Apple and Meat Sauce.

Mast, Yogurt – Some physicians attribute the stamina and longevity of the Middle Eastern and Balkan people to Mast. These were some of the poorest people in the world and their daily food lacked the vitamins required for good health. That is why yogurt is considered the panacea for human ills, and the Iranians’ long life in the past was also attributed to it.

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Packing Tips

Here are some general guidelines for packing for a Caravan-Serai Tour. We have partnered with Travel Smith, a catalog and online retailer of travel clothing and accessories. Their products are ideal for travel: lightweight and easy to pack, wrinkle resistant, easy to care for, comfortable, and versatile. As a Caravan-Serai client, you can receive a 10% discount off your purchase. If you did not receive a catalog from us with a KEY CODE on the cover, call us for the code and shop online.

First and foremost be comfortable! Pack clothes that can be worn in layers and colors that allow you to mix and match. Note that in many holy sites shorts and sleeveless outfits are not permitted. Consider the following ideas when you pack:

Clothing:  Your favorite pair of comfortable, sturdy, walking shoes: many of our tours include exploring ruins, walking on unpaved or uneven streets, and sand. You can bring another pair of shoes or sandals for days when there won’t be much walking or for the beach.  Warm sweater: in the winter months, it can get chilly, especially at night  Casual pants or jeans: lightweight cotton pants are preferable to jeans, especially in the warm season. Jeans are bulky, hot, and don’t hand wash and dry well at all.  Cotton shirts: breathable, quick-drying shirts are the best.  Windbreaker or raincoat, rain hat and small umbrella: in the winter months it can rain, especially in coastal areas. If you do choose to bring an umbrella, keep it compact.  Swim suit  Scarf - for entering into a Mosque

A note about traveling to Iran: Women will need to wear a scarf when out in public and a covering called a manteau. This is like a lightweight, loose fitting raincoat or jacket. Which is exactly what you can bring if you have one, and that will suffice. Bring your scarf and covering (if you have one) in your carry-on bag as you will need to put them on before getting off the plane in Iran. The group will be able to stop at a shopping area and the women can purchase a manteau within the first day or so in Iran. Be aware that everyone should dress con- servatively: no shorts, sleeveless shirts, short skirts, tight-fitting clothes, etc.

If you do not have a manteau it is acceptable to wear a long loose fitting skirt or pants and long top that covers to your knees. Please, no deep scoop or V-necks. The shirts should be long sleeved or at least to just below the elbow. Dress codes are relaxing a little bit in Iran, however you should still be respectful and dress conserva- tively. Examples of what to wear in Iran

Electrical Appliances:  Converter and Adapter plugs  The electric current in the Middle East is 220 volts. To operate small American appliances such as a hair dryer or curling iron you will need both a Converter and Adapter Plugs. Most hotels will have a hair drier either in the room or in housekeeping that you can borrow. To recharge tablets/computers you will only need a plug adapter.  Travel alarm clock

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Other necessities:  Day pack  Camera, film/memory cards, extra battery and journal  Travel first aid kit  Anti-diarrhea medicine, pain reliever, etc…  Sun Protection: sunscreen, sun glasses, hat  Travel sewing kit  Travel packs of towlettes and tissues  Powdered laundry soap for quick laundry of undergarments, socks, etc. Many hotels will have a laundry service but our schedule may not allow you to take advantage of that.  Wash cloth  Any medications with their prescriptions  Contact lens wearers: bring solution and storage case, and your spare glasses. Some places can be extremely gritty with blowing sand and dust that can be very irritating to contact lens wearers. If you wear glasses, consider bringing a spare pair in case one pair is lost or damaged.

Other items to consider bringing:  Small flashlight  Feminine protection: pads or tampons (travel can rearrange your internal “clock” in more ways than just jet lag, so even if you don’t think you will start your period on the trip, it could come a little early or late so just be prepared)  Swiss army knife (do not pack this in your carry on! Pack it in checked luggage)  Zip lock bags (consider storing any liquid items, such as lotions and shampoo bottles, in Ziploc bags in- side your luggage, so that if they leak, the mess will be contained)  Small fold up suitcase for those extra items that you purchase (people almost always come home with more stuff than they started with so be prepared by bringing an extra bag, such as a duffel bag, or consider buying another bag there)

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Places to Visit

Iran has a great variety of geographical environments, from the jungles to Caspian Sea shores to the sunny beaches and legendary islands of the Persian Gulf.

Azarbayjan Azarbayjan is in the Northwest corner of Iran. Azarbayjan’s location provided to be beneficial for its early devel- opment. It is located with Turkey to the west, the former USSR Republics of Azarbayjan and Armenia to the north, the Talesh coastal strip of Gilan Province to the east and the provinces of Kordestan and Zanjan tot he south. This arrangement allowed Azarbayjan to become the center of one of the earliest civilizations in Persia.

Caspian Coast The Caspian Coast, including the three provinces of Mazandaran, Gilan and Gorgan, attracts large numbers of visitors to see its lush forests, beautiful beaches, extensive paddy fields and Citrus trees.

Hamadan(Capital of Hamadan Province) Hamadan sits in a high plain below the peak of Alvand, which originally was called Ecbatana. This is one of the oldest continually inhabited towns in the world and was the summer capital of the Achaemenians when Shush was their winter capital

Isfahan (Capital of Isfahan Province) Isfahan is located 414km. South of Tehran and is 1570m. above sea level. Here you will find many historical and impressive sites. Isfahan is one of the most significant tourist attractions in Iran. It dates back 2500 years and has been the capital of Iran in three historical periods. The golden age of Isfahan was in the Safavid era form 1505 to 1736 and much of the art and architecture you will see is from this period.

Kerman Kerman is located 1,860 meters above sea level and 1,062 km south of Tehran. Around this area you can find such things as the Prince Garden, a splendid display of greenery, blooming flowers and fountains. Ardashir I, founder of the Sassanian Dynasty, founded Kerman in the early third century AD.

Kermanshah Kermanshah has some of the most interesting and famous archaeological sites in this part of Iran, dating from before recorded history through the Median, Achaemenian, Parthian and Sassanian dynasties to the Islamic era.

Kish Island Kish is a fabulous oval-shaped island that lies in the heart of the Persian Gulf. In the deep and glassy waters of the Kish you will be able to see all different kind s of coral, and even the island itself is a platform of coral inhabited since 2,000 BC. Kish is known as a wonderful place for a variety of sports, such as: cycling, horseback riding, swimming, scuba diving, windsurfing, jet skiing, parachuting and water skiing.

Mashhad Capital of the immense province of Khorasan and also, for a time of all Iran. Mashhad is the holiest city in the country and a place of pilgrimage for Shi-ite Muslims from all over the world. The most important monument in this city is the shrine of Imam Reza the 8th. Shi-ite Imam was martyred in 818 AD.

Shiraz Shiraz is the present-day capital of Fars province, the heartland of Iran, which gave its name to the Persian language, Farsi. This is a city filled with historical monuments to poets and philosophers, warriors and kings, and fragrant with fruit orchards, and roses. Shiraz is located in a plain surrounded by two mountain ranges and 895 km away from Tehran. Here you will find a very mild climate and friendly people.

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Shush While probably best known as an Achaemenian capital, Shush was in fact a pre-historical settlement from at least the 4th millennium BC, and an important Elamite City form about the middle of the 3rd millennium BC. It reached its first peak under the reign of Untash Gal, who built Shush up as his administrative capital and founded Chogha Zanbil as his religious center, where you will find his Ziggurat, which was built in the 13th century BC.

Tehran (Capital of Tehran Province) Tehran was originally a village on the suburb of Ray, Iranian capital until Mongol invasion in 1220 AD. The 200th anniversary of Tehran’s nomination as the nations Capital was celebrated in 1991.

Tehran is situated on the northern edge of the great central plateau at the foot of the southern impressive mountain chain of Alborz. The Alborz Mountains contain the famous peak Damavand, which is 5671 meters above sea level. Tehran has a population of approximately 9,000,000 inhabitants, in a 600-sq. km. Area.

Yazd Situated in a vast dry valley, 677km. south of Tehran, Yazd has a dry climate with hot summers and cold winters. According to some historians Yazdgerd I as Sassanian King (339-420AD) founded Yazd. UNESCO has recognized Yazd as having the second oldest architecture in the world.

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Islamic Republic of Iran

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Religions in the Middle East

The state religion of Iran is the Ja’fari Faith of the Twelve Imams. According to official 1986 statistics, about 98.5% of the population is Muslim, most of whom belong to Shi’ite Sect, while the rest belong to the Hanafi or Shafe’i sects. Other Islamic sects are Hanafi, Shafe’i, Maleki, Hanbali, and Zeidi, all of which are respected and enjoy perfect freedom to practice. The Zoroastrian, Armenian, Jewish, Assyrian, and Chaldean religious minorities have their own religious organizations. Following is a brief description of Judaism, Christianity, Islam and Zoroastrianism as much as is needed to be observed by tourists.

Judaism: God revealed to Moses the 10 Commandments on Mount St. Catherine in Sinai but he was not permitted to enter the Holy Land. Solomon built the First Jewish Temple, which was destroyed by the Babylonians. The First and Second Jewish Temples were built on the mount, which now is occupied by the Dome of the Rock and the Agsa Mosque. The Babylonians destroyed the Second Temple. Jews believe that the old retaining wall on the Mount, which is called the Western or Wailing Wall, is part of the Temple. Archaeologists have reconstruct- ed a model of the Second Temple, which you might visit. Synagogues of the Jewish people can be found throughout Israel and Palestine. We know of no special protocols for visiting Jewish synagogues that you need to observe, however from Friday at sundown until Saturday at sundown the Sabbath, or day of rest, is observed, and visitors to Jewish houses of worship may not be welcome during that time.

A respect for all religions and the people practicing them is requested from people enjoying our tours. If you have any further questions, please do not hesitate to ask us.

Christianity: Jordan, Israel and Palestine are territories of Christianity. Jerusalem, Nazareth, Bethlehem, and the Jordan Valley are principal destinations. Approximately 5% of Palestinians and Jordanians are Christians. Churches can be found throughout all the countries in the area. Syria has many famous Christian churches, and you can even hear Aramaic, the language of Christ, spoken in Ma’alula in Syria and by Orthodox Jews in Jerusa- lem. Since Christian protocol remains essentially the same in the Middle East as the United States, behavior rules are the same in both places.

Islam: For Muslims (Moslems), God revealed his eternal truths in Arabic through the Prophet Muhammad (Mohammed), 570-632AD, who lived in what is today Saudi Arabia. The revelations were collected as the Qu’ran (Koran). Muslims believe that the Prophet Muhammad was transported in a miraculous journey from Mecca (in modern Saudi Arabia) to Jerusalem to Heaven and then home. The Dome of the Rock commemorates the spot where he rose to Heaven and returned. After the Prophet’s death, Islam was spread by his followers and eventually encompassed an area from Bosnia to southern Russia, east to China, and south to the Philippines, and west via North Africa to Spain. We therefore can find mosques (houses of worship) throughout the world as well throughout the Middle East. Many Christian churches have been converted into mosques. Some promi- nent examples are in Aya Sofia in Istanbul, and the Omayyad Mosque in Damascus.

When visiting a mosque, be prepared to leave your shoes with the doorkeeper. It is not necessary to tip him. Women wear a scarf to cover the hair when entering a mosque. Black and white scarves are common, but any subdued color may be used. Prayers may be in session and quiet respect is expected. Hearing the prayers chant- ed could be a thrilling experience. Muslims pray five times a day and they wash before praying but this is not required of visitors.

Islam follows a lunar calendar of 12 months a year, which is shorter than the solar year by eleven days. The holiest month is Ramadan (pr. Ra-ma-dan), strict Moslems fast during the hours between daybreak and sunset, and eat between sunset and daybreak. During the fast, Muslims abstain from eating, drinking, and smoking during daylight hours. Breaking the fast at the end of the day is an important event. Visitors are not expected to observe the fast, but in consideration for those who do, please refrain from smoking or eating during the hours of the fast in public during Ramadan. You may plan to eat in hotels and restaurants as desired.

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Zoroastrianism

Zoroastrianism prevailed in Iran much earlier than the advent of Islam. Zoroastrianism is a dualistic ancient Irani- an religion the creation of which is credited to the mythical prophet Zarathushtra (Zoroaster in Greek). Zoroas- trianism had been fully shaped by the 7th century BC. The main thing in Zoroastrianism is the doctrine of the constant struggle in the world between two opposite elements: good, personified by the god of lightness Ahura Mazda (Ormazd), and evil, personified by the god of darkness, Angro Mainyush (Ahriman). Its eschatological ideas on the end of the world, judgment, resurrection of the dead and a future savior born of a Virgin exerted great influence on Judaism and Christianity. Apart from Iran, at present, exists in the form of Parsiism in India and has preserved the old dualistic ideas but developed the concept of a single Almighty God.

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Going Shopping? How to Bargain Effectively

Prepare to bargain! See what a good deal you can get!

For many people in the world, there's no such thing as a Universal Product Code or price tag. The merchant sizes up the buyer, the buyer sizes up the merchant and each tries to obtain the best price.

Many Westerners dislike bargaining in foreign countries, and see it as a waste of time or, worse yet, an opportunity to be swindled. However, bargaining can be pleasant -- even fun -- if you understand the "rules."

In most places where there is bargaining, there are strategies employed on both sides that are understood to be simply that: strategies. Each side jockeys for advantage. And while there are few strategies that hold true the world over, here are some suggestions to try on your trip:

1. Before going shopping, ask a local person how much you should pay for a particular item. This primarily ap- plies to food or household items that residents might buy frequently. Or talk to your concierge if you're interested in a specific high-ticket item. Even armed with this knowledge, however, expect to pay a little above the locals' price -- it's often a matter of pride to get a better-than-average price from a tourist. 2. Offer much lower than you really want to pay. How much lower depends upon where you are and what you're buying. Generally speaking, offering a quarter to a third of the price quoted for souvenirs in most developing countries is a good start, but there are exceptions. If, for instance, you were buying a rug in Mo- rocco, you would be foolish to offer more than a tenth the asking price (or to pay more than a fifth). 3. Be polite. This is where many tourists make a mistake. Insulting the seller by saying, "Your prices are out- rageous,” or “Don't try to cheat me!" won't get you very far, and reinforces negative stereotypes about Westerners. 4. It's much better, in fact to humble yourself. Pick up an item you're interested in. "You like?" the merchant asks. "Yes, it's very nice." "How much you pay?" "Oh, I could never afford such an item." "Please tell me your price." "I'm afraid I'd insult you if I told you what I could pay. I can't pay what it's worth." "Go ahead, tell me how much you pay." Then you name a ridiculously low price. The merchant will counter with a price that's higher than what you said, but much lower than he might quote to other tourists. You can slowly raise your price, and he can slowly lower his; you've set yourself up well. Americans negotiate 50-50 by splitting the asking price, but this is not the rule in developing countries where less than 50% of the asking price can be obtained. Try to figure out a reasonable wholesale price and add a reasonable profit for the seller. 5. Don't denigrate the merchandise. Conventional wisdom says to point out flaws or defects to get a lower price. In practice, this is a rather transparent tactic, and the fact that you're bargaining for the item at all is a pretty good indication that you consider the defect minor. If there is a flaw you can live with, the better strategy is to bargain your best price without mentioning the flaw. Then, just before you're ready to hand over the money, you "notice" it. Say that you're sorry, but you don't want it with the flaw, and start to put it back. The price will almost always come down a little further to get you to take it. (Note: This won't work if there are similar items that are in good condition.) 6. Give the merchant excuses to lower his price. Say you can't afford the "normal" price because you're a stu- dent. Or newly married. Or recently divorced. You have 10 children. You must support your elderly par- ents. You just lost your job. You just started your job. 7. Good cop, bad cop. If you and your companion spot something you want, one of you should say, in front of the merchant, "Look at this! Isn't it great?" The other should look at it with disdain, say, "Put it back," and walk on. The merchant will approach the one who showed interest and encourage him or her to buy. Then, no matter what price is quoted, the answer should be, "Gee, for something that much, I'd have to ask my wife (husband)." The price will keep dropping every time you make a move to get the other spouse in- volved.

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8. Have a friend do the bargaining. Merchants can tell when you're truly hooked on an item, and will have no incentive to go lower after they've seen that gleam in your eye. But find a friend who is truly disinterested, give him a set limit to spend and wait somewhere out of sight. The friend should tell the merchant he is buying for someone else, and at a certain point in the bargaining, should tell the merchant that he simply has no authority to go above that price. There is little a merchant can say other than “yes “ or “no.” He can't move your offer. 9. Walk away ~ even out the door. Sellers may chase you down the street!

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The Persian Language in Iran

The official language is Farsi Persian, but there are many other languages and Persian dialects spoken by various ethnic groups in the country. Turkmen, Azerbaijani, Kurdish, Luri, and Arabic are among the major languages spoken. Turkmen is the most widely spoken language after Farsi, as it is the language of both the Azerbaijani and Turkmen. All school instruction is in Farsi.

Welcome: Khosh amadid Thank you: Motashakkeram Hello: Salam Good Morning: Sobh bekheir Good Evening: Shab bekheir Good Bye: Khoda hafez How do you do: Hal-e shoma chetor ast What is your name: Esmetin chi st My name is: Esmam e Bon Voyage: Safar bakheir Yes: Bale No: Nakheir Please: Lotfan Persian: Farsi Expensive: Gerun Small: Kuchek Big: Bozorg Where: Koja Hot: Gaim Cold: Said Restaurant: Restoran Bathroom Dast-shu Restroom Dast-shu Toilet: Dast shu Taxi: Mashin Airport: Forudgah Embassy: Safarat Post Office: Posthune Left: Dast e chap Right: Dast e nast

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The Farsi Alphabet

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Music in the Middle East

Arab Music is a unique form of music heard in Arab countries from the Gulf to the Meghreb. Acoustic instruments perform Traditional or Classic Arab music. In recent years electric instruments, which can produce quar- tertones, have been introduced.

Arab music scales are not chromatic like the major and minor scales used in occidental music. It is the quarter- tone, which makes this music so unique and expandable. Because of this quality, Arab music has a variety of scales unfamiliar to the Western ear. These scales represent a mode, a human emotion, or a feeling. Some are suitable for morning listening, some for late night. These scales are called Maqaams (positions). Some of the common Maqaams are Hijaz, Bayaat, Saba, Siga and Kurd, and most Arabic songs utilize several Maqaam to ex- press the various emotions introduced in the poetry of each song.

The historic origin of this music is extremely heterogeneous. Early Arab musicians borrowed from the Egyptians, Assyrians, and Sumerians. Many of the instruments now used are direct descendents of those that appeared in wall paintings and carvings of those civilizations. Greek music theory was translated into Arabic in the 8th and 9th centuries as the science of music became one of the courses of the quadrivium, and was studied by most students of the period.

Seven treatises of music theory appeared under the name of Al-Kindi (d. 874) and three have survived in print. After Al-Kindi there was a gap of about a century in documentation. Following Al-Kindi, the great theorist Al- Farabi published his book Al-Kitaab Al-Kabeer that included immense and detailed information on music and music instruments of that era. Being a good mathematician and physicist, Al-Farabi was able to handle the physical bases of sounds by making valuable contributions to physiological acoustics, i.e. the sensation of tone, which is part of Greek music theory.

The following are some of the most popular instruments of Arab music:

OUD, al-‘Oud (meaning “wood”) is a highly ornate instrument made of wood with six double strings, pear- shaped body and non-fretted neck. It is plucked with an eagle feather or a pick. The ‘Oud originated in Ancient Egypt and was later adopted by the Persians, who brought it to the Arabian Peninsula. The great Iraqi musician, Zeriab introduced the 'Oud to Spain and later to Europe when he sought refuge in Andalusia.

QANOUN: al-Qanoun (meaning “rule”, “law”) is a descendant of the old Egyptian Harp. The form of the Qanoun is a trapezoid-shaped flat board over which 81 strings are stretched in groups of three, with 24 treble chords consisting of three chords to each note with movable frets called ‘Urab. The Qanoun is placed flat on the knees of the musician: the strings are plucked with the finger or with two plectra, one plectrum attached to the forefinger of each hand plucking separate octaves.

NAY: A Persian word used to describe a single reed pipe. It is one of the oldest instruments in the Middle East. The Nay has 6 holes in the front for the fingers to play, and 1 hole underneath for the thumb. Fine, mellow tones are produced by blowing gently through the orifice of the tube while manipulating the fingers and thumbs: the force of blowing scales (Maqaams) generates octaves by utilizing Nays of various lengths.

MIJWIZ: (means dual) is a type of double reed clarinet played by breathing gently through a circular aperture and by manipulating the fingers over the holes down the front of the tube. The sound it produces may reflect a musical dialogue between two moods

DAF: also known as the Rikk, which corresponds to the English tambourine. It consists of a round frame cov- ered on one side by goat or fish skin, with pairs of metal discs set into the frame that jingle when the hand strikes it. The sounds of this percussion instrument set the rhythm of Arab music.

TABLAH /Darbouka: is also a percussion instrument; made of clay or metal with goat or fish skin stretched over its larger opening. It is placed on the leg; beaten with both hands yielding different sounds: when beaten near the edge it produces sounds like (tic), or near the middle the sound is more like (dom), establishing several rhythmic scales to accompany the meter of sounds produced by accompanied instruments.

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Gift Giving

Tradition dictates that if you admire an item belonging to another person in an Arab country, it will be automati- cally given to you. Now technically, you may say, “That necklace on you is lovely,” but not, “What a lovely necklace that is.” The inference is that you admire someone’s taste as a pleasant object, but not admire it because you want such a thing. Please remember to try not, either directly or indirectly, to give an Arab person cause to think you would like any of their possessions, including jewelry, clothing, souvenirs, etc. This can result in cultural misunderstanding and embarrassment. This can also cause you to be the recipient of an article that you really may not want! Please be very careful of this traditional practice in this culture. Thank you.

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STOP

Please be Forewarned!

 When traveling in a foreign country, you are subject to the laws of that country. In most countries of the world it is illegal to deal in drugs. If you are caught in possession of illegal drugs, you will be arrested. Drug dealing, particularly in the Arab world, is a very serious offense and the penalties are severe. Foreign jails are not pleasant places – most require that you supply your own food and necessities.

 In Islamic countries, such as Iran, carrying alcohol into the country with you is forbidden and will be treated just as if you had brought narcotics into the country.

 Do not rely on our consular corps to bail you out. They are there for diplomatic purposes, and some help. They do not loan money or buy tickets. In most cases they will only be able to visit you in jail to verify that you are not being treated inhumanely, receive due process of the local law, and pass messages to family.

 It is reported that AIDS is widespread throughout the world. We urge you to take all precautions in this regard.

 Removing antiquities from most countries is not allowed any longer. Do not rely on the advice of the seller of antiquities. If you plan to buy antiquities, check with proper authorities.

We would like you to abide by the laws of the countries we visit and have a fun time while you are there.

Thank you.

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Reading List

Featured: Reading Lolita in Tehran: A Memoir in Books, by Azar Nafisi

Every Thursday morning for two years in the Islamic Republic of Iran, a bold and inspired teacher named Azar Nafisi secretly gathered seven of her most committed female students to read forbidden Western classics. As Islamic morality squads staged arbitrary raids in Tehran, fundamentalists seized hold of the universities, and a blind censor stifled artistic expression, the girls in Azar Nafisi's living room risked removing their veils and immersed themselves in the worlds of Jane Austen, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Henry James, and Vladimir Nabokov. In this extraordinary memoir, their stories become intertwined with the ones they are reading. "Reading Lolita in Tehran” is a remarkable exploration of resilience in the face of tyranny and a celebration of the liberating power of literature.

Stories from Iran by Heshmat Moayyad Persian Mirrors ~ The Elusive Face of Iran by Elaine Sciolino Children of Deh Koh, Young Life in an Iranian Village by Erika Friedl New Food of Life: Ancient Persian and Modern Iranian Cooking and Ceremonies by Najmieh Khalili Batmanglij Lonely Planet: Iran by Paul Greenway Travels in Persia (1673 - 1677) by Sir John Chardin Reading Lolita in Tehran by Azar Nafisi, pub: Random House Trade Paperbacks, New York, 2004 ISBN:0- 8129-7106-X Persepolis - The Story of a Childhood by Marjane Satrapi, pub: Pantheon Books, New York, 2003 ISBN: 0- 375-71457-X Persepolis 2 - The Story of a Return by Marjane Strapi, pub: Pantheon Books, New York, 2004 ISBN: 0-375- 42288-9 The Mediterranean World in Late Antiquity: AD 395-600 - Averil Cameron ISBN 0-415-01421-2 Muhammad - Margaret K. McElderry ISBN 0-689-85264-9 The Ends of the Earth: From Togo to Turkmenistan, from Iran to Cambodia, a Journey to the Frontiers of Anarchy by Robert D. Kaplan Language, Status and Power in Iran (Advances is Semiotics Series) by William Beerman Garden of the Brave in War: Recollections of Iran by Terrance O'Donnell Nomads of Luristan: History, Material Culture and Pastoralism in Western Iran by Inge Demant Morgensen Through Iran in Disguise by Sarah Hobson Traveler on Horseback in Eastern Turkey and Iran by Christina Dodwell Through Travelers Eyes: European Travelers on the Iranian Monuments by Heleen Sancisi- Weerdenburg The Road to Oxiana by Robert Bryron Closed Circuit History by Ardashir Muhassis Blind Owl: and other Heyadat Stories by Sadiq Hiyadat Masquerade by Sarah Hobson Iran: World Map American Map Company Iran: A Child's Story, A Man's Experience by Gholam-Reza, Sabri Tabrizi Six Questions for Iran: By Nicholas D. Kristoff, New York Times, May 19, 2004. In May of 2004 Kristoff visited the Islamic Republic of Iran and upon his return, put together this series of interviews, essays, and media clips. This is best if you have Flash and sound on your computer so you can watch the video clips of his interviews with ordinary Iranians, community leaders, and clerics. This is a great series with a candid view of Iran, the people and some political issues the country is facing. Follow the link below. If you are not already registered with the NY Times online, you will be required to register, but it is well worth it.

http://www.nytimes.com/2004/05/19/opinion/19kristof-iran.html

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Notes:

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Armenia

Azerbaijan

Bahrain

Egypt

Georgia

Iran

Israel

Jordan

Lebanon

Morocco

Oman

Qatar

Saudi Arabia

Tunisia

Turkey

United Arab Emirates

Caravan-Serai Tours, Inc. “Unveiling The Middle East and North Africa”

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