The National Herald NOVEMBER 21, 2009 www.thenationalherald.com 2 Greek Food & Wine 2009 THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 21, 2009

The National Herald Thanksgiving: A weekly publication of the NATIONAL HERALD, INC. (ΕΘΝΙΚΟΣ ΚΗΡΥΞ), reporting the news and addressing the issues of paramount interest to the Greek American community of the United States of America. An American Holiday, Publisher-Editor Antonis H. Diamataris Assistant to Publisher, Advertising Veta H. Diamataris Papadopoulos With Greek Roots? Managing Editor of Insert Eleni Kostopoulos On Line Assistant Editor Christos Tripoulas By Eleni Kostopoulos Production Manager Chrysoula Karametros Gills writes: “It plant for our- Webmaster Alexandros Tsoukias The National Herald Staff Writer was her job to feed selves.” the world, but Yet another theory ighting over the best piece of when she discov- exists on an Ancient Democritou 1 and Academias Sts, Athens, 10671, Greece carved turkey, engaging in ered her daughter Greek-originated Thanks- Tel: 011.30.210.3614.598, Fax: 011.30.210.3643.776, e-mail: [email protected] Funique family conversations, had been kidnapped, giving, complete with a pa- Subscriptions by mail: 1 year $66.00, 6 months $33.00, 3 months $22.00, 1 month $11.00 hearing the football match on TV she became so de- rade and full-fledged Home delivery NY, NJ, CT: 1 year $88.00, 6 months $48.00, 3 months $33.00, 1 month $14.00 from the adjacent room, expressing pressed she wouldn't banquet. An article on Home delivery New England States, Pennsylvania, Washington DC, Virginia and Maryland: gratitude to God for all our bless- do her job. dl.ket.org states: “The 1 year $109.00, 6 months $57.00, 3 months $41.00, 1 month $18.00 ings; these are some of the things Finally, she found out Greeks called their Thanks- On line subscription: Subscribers to the print edition: 1 year $34.95, 6 months $23.95, 3 months $14.95; Non subscribers: 1 year $45.95, 6 months $29.95, 3 months $18.95 we look forward to when celebrat- where her daughter giving Day ELEUTHERIA, ing Thanksgiving Day, a typically was, but that didn't help and they celebrated it in the American holiday that has its hum- much. She still wanted Perse- month they called Maemacterion ble beginnings on the Plymouth phone back and the god who had with (November on our calendar). They Plantation in the early 1600s. His- abducted Persephone didn't want Hades over did not, however, feast on turkey. tory, however, tells us that many to return his lovely prize. Demeter Persephone. Their ‘kill’ to be shared by all pre- rituals we anticipate in the modern refused to eat or feed the world un- After her reunion with her daugh- sent at the banquet was a black bull On a Thankful Heart world during the end of November, til the other gods arranged a satis- ter, Demeter gave the gift of agri- -- much more practical since the closely resemble traditions prac- factory resolution to her conflict culture to mankind so we could whole town was expected for din- By Rev. Andrew Demotses ticed by the Ancient Greeks. ner. Goarch.org Also during the autumn season, “The Greek Thanksgiving Day a festival known as Thesmophoria was started after the battle of uring the month of Novem- used to be held in about 50 cities or Plataea, 479 B.C. Every year, on the ber, we are reminded of our villages of Ancient Greece, in honor 16th day of the month of Maemac- Dobligation to give thanks to of the goddess Demeter, who terion, a procession through town Almighty God for the many and taught mankind to tend the soil. would start at dawn, at the signal countless blessings that surround According to N.S. Gills of of a trumpet. The procession was us. It is a sad commentary on our about.com, there was no question followed by wagons decorated with human nature that we must institu- but that the festival, held during a myrtle boughs (cf. out Thanksgiv- tionalize a day of thanksgiving lest month known as Pyanopsion ing Day parade floats decorated no one give a thought to this most (Puanepsion) in the lunisolar cal- with roses and flowers), the black basic of responsibilities. endar of the Athenians, was part of sacrificial bull and young free And Yet, all of Scripture is very the goddess' worship. youths (cf. the marching groups of sensitive to the need for us to give She writes: “Since our calendar young people in our Thanksgiving thanks. When the people of Israel is solar, the month doesn't exactly Day parades). At the rear of the were led into the land of Canaan, match, but Pyanopsion would be, procession came the Archon of they were told by the God of our fa- more or less, October into Novem- Plataea, dressed in the garments of thers to "beware that thou forget ber, the same months as the Cana- victorious military leader and car- not" all that had been done for dian and U.S. Thanksgivings. In an- rying a sword (cf. our parade them. Nonetheless, they quickly cient Greece this was the time of Grand Marshal dressed in military forgot the mighty acts by which the the fall planting of crops like barley garb). Lord had formed them into a great and winter wheat. Since the Greeks were not as fa- nation, and it became necessary for On the 11-13 of Pyanopsion, natical about athletics as we are, the psalmist to remind them to "for- Greek matrons took a break from they only had their Eleutherian get not all His benefits." In the heal- their usually homebound lives to Bowl every fifth year, instead of the ing of the 10 lepers, only one re- participate in the autumn sowing annual contests we enjoy on turned to give thanks, and Christ (Sporetos) festival known as Thes- Thanksgiving Day. Even though we asked, "Were there not ten mophoria. Although most of the live in the New World, and we like cleansed, but where are the nine?" practices remain a mystery, we to serve turkey instead of beef on Surely God does not need our know that the holiday was a bit Thanksgiving Day, we continue to feeble thanks. It must be for our more involved than our modern walk in the footsteps of our prede- benefit, therefore, that we are re- versions, and that no men were al- cessors, the ancient Greeks.” quired to be grateful. Indeed, a fun- lowed to participate. Thanksgiving-like rituals may damental requirement for spiritual sessions for what they are, gifts The matrons probably symboli- date back to ancient times, but growth is a thankful heart. If we are made possible by the intellect, the cally relived the anguish Demeter Thanksgiving traditions have been to give thanks, we not only remem- health, and the opportunities that suffered when her daughter clearly shaped by ever-evolving ber all that we should be thankful have been placed in our path. Grat- Kore/Persephone was abducted by eras. for, but to whom those thanks are itude helps us to understand our Hades. They also probably asked One tradition that remains, due; we are bound to remember proper place in the scheme of cre- for her help in obtaining a bounti- however, is that of giving thanks; not only the gifts received, but the ation. ful harvest.” perhaps this Thanksgiving we Giver as well. It is in this awareness To be thankful is to look up at As we learn in the classroom, should also thank the Ancient that a life of faith has its founda- Another far greater than ourselves, Thanksgiving represents a time to Greeks for officially launching the tion. We begin to live each day for and to know that we are not gods give thanks for harvest, and to ex- custom of designating one period what it is, a gift from God. We strive ourselves. In that knowledge is the press gratitude in general. Deme- cepagenoir.files.wordpress.com to practice gratitude. We mustn’t not to waste it, but to treat it as an beginning of all wisdom. God asks ter, who is the Greek version of the Demeter, the goddess who taught mankind to tend the soil, was hon- forget, nevertheless, to remain investment trusted to our care. We us for thankful hearts not because Roman goddess Ceres, was indeed ored during the autumn season in Ancient Greece during a festival eternally thankful for our blessings also see our successes and our pos- He needs them, but because we do. the goddess of grain. known as Thesmophoria, similar to modern-day Thanksgiving Day. in our daily lives as well. THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 21, 2009 Greek Food & Wine 2009 3

By Tracy Ellen Kamens, Ed.D., grapes that have been cataloged, DWS Greece provides great diversity and Certified Wine Educator originality in its wines. Yes, you can find the usual suspects – Chardon- hile Greek wines haven’t nay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Mer- made big headlines in re- lot – but more importantly, and Wcent years, Greece has a more significantly, are grapes such long vinous history dating back as Roditis, Assyrtiko, Agiorghitiko 4,000 years and is actually consid- and Xinomavro. ered to be the birthplace of food Amidst the Aegean Islands, San- and wine as a culture. Among its torini seems like an unlikely place more well-known wine exports is for wine production. Here, soils are Retsina, which owes its unique fla- a mix of volcanic and minced rock vor to its infusion with pine resin. while the climate is extremely dry While not most people’s prefer- and windy, so much so that vines ence, traditionally, this process ac- must be trained low to the ground tually served a purpose, acting as a in a circular pattern, resembling a preservative and preventing oxida- woven basket. tion long before the advent of re- Yet despite this inhospitable cli- frigeration and other modern tech- mate, Assyrtiko thrives, producing nology. wines with vibrant acidity and min- Other additives, such as opiates, erality that develop a beautiful were also common in ancient richness over time. Among other Greece, which gave rise to those whites, Athiri grapes are grown in bacchanalian parties. As further ev- Rhodes and Santorini, providing idence of its forward thinking, wines with low acidity, good weight Greece also pioneered the concept and high aromatics. Roditis is the of using specific vessels for specific grape best known for the wines wines long before Riedel crafted his from Patras, which are elegant, first crystal stemware. Moreover, light white wines, displaying notes antique amphorae also sported the of citrus flavors. first wine labels, with seals indicat- Red grape star Agiorgitiko pro- ing the vintner, vintage, etc. vides dark color and soft tannins But, it wasn’t until more modern and results in wines with a round- history that Greece has once again ness and balance similar to Pinot become a world class producer of Noir. Found in Nemea (the largest wine. red wine appellation in Greece), on Previously, wines were high in the Peleponnese, these wines can alcohol, low in acidity and prone to be aged and have nice acidity and oxidation due in part to poor wine- good aromatics. It’s All Greek to Me: Greek Wines Make a Comeback in U.S. Market making, high yields and over-oak- Another well-respected red vari- ing. Conversely, today, Greek wines ety is Xinomavro, which loosely are clean and fresh, with balanced translates as sour black. This grape structure and acidity and are quite is grown in Naoussa within the re- food friendly. Combining Old gion of Macedonia, and is responsi- World tradition with New World ble in part for the blend in Rapsani technology, many producers are us- on Mount Olympus. ing indigenous grapes grown at low Greece is also known for its yields and applying new technolo- dessert wines. Mavrodaphne gies such as refrigeration to pro- grapes are generally used to pro- duce high quality wines. duce sweet, fortified wines that are Geographically, Greece resem- similar in style to ruby Ports. Other bles an outstretched hand, reach- sweet Greek wines include Muscats ing into the water. Located within of Samos as well as those from Rion the Mediterranean Sea, Greece is a and Patras, with notes of apricot, country primarily made up of vol- honey, orange peel and spice. canic islands and qualifying as the The wine renaissance taking third most mountainous country in place in modern Greece is long Europe. overdue, but well worth the wait. Not surprisingly, this is a coun- And, just in time, too, as Greek food try whose vineyards are made up of has become an important trend in small plots of land with ancient Metropolitan restaurants. In fact, soils, in isolated areas and at high in recent years, one magazine de- elevations (among the highest in clared that “octopus is the new the world, second only to Argenti- calamari.” na). But, regardless of what you or- Given its maritime location, it der, Greek wines are food friendly has a Mediterranean climate, with wines that can pair easily with a a heavy influence from the sea. In wealth of cuisines. And, with your fact, low rainfall plagues most of newly acquired knowledge, review- Greece, with moisture coming from ing a list of Greek wines should no fog instead. longer have you saying, “It’s all Home to over 300 indigenous Greek to me.” 4 Greek Food & Wine 2009 THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 21, 2009 Your Road Map to Discovering Great Greek Cheeses Savoring a Variety of Flavors and Textures from all Parts of Greece

ANTHOTIROS a total cheese consumption of 25 table cheese after ripening for at percent and salt not more than 2 Anthotiros is traditional Greek Kg, which is the highest in the least for three months. It is also percent. whey cheese with Controlled De- world. Feta is a cheese with Con- consumed fresh as “saganaki” GRAVIERA OF NAXOS nomination of Origin (DOC). It has trolled Denomination of Origin (shallow-fried cheese). The mean Graviera of Naxos is traditional been manufactured in Greece for (DOC) manufactured from pure composition of Formaella of Par- Greek cheese with Controlled De- many centuries from whey of ewe’s ewe's milk or a mixture with up to nassos is, moisture: 34.6 percent, nomination of Origin (DOC). It is and goat’s milk or mixtures, with 30 percent of goat's milk in the re- fat: 32.9 percent, proteins: 27.7 manufactured from cow's milk or the addition of small quantities of gions of Macedonia, Thrace, percent and salt: 2.1 percent. mixtures with small quantities of milk and/or cream, in the regions Epirus, Thessalia, Sterea Hellas, GALOTIRI ewe's or goat's milk on the island of of Macedonia, Thrace, Thessalia, Peloponissos and Mitilini island. It Galotiri is one of the oldest tra- Naxos. It is a hard cheese of propi- Sterea Hellas, Peloponissos, Ionian has salty, slightly acid taste, natural ditional cheeses of Greece with onic fermentation which is ripened islands, Aegean islands, Kriti island white color and pleasant Controlled Denomination of Origin for at least for three months. It is and Epirus. There are two types of organoleptic characteristics. Feta is (DOC). It is manufactured from considered to be a cheese of high Anthotiros: Fresh and Dried. Fresh manufactured mainly in mountain- ewe’s or goat’s milk or mixtures in quality with unique organoleptic Anthotiros has soft texture, mild ous and semi- mountainous regions the regions of Epirus and Thessalia. properties and is consumed as table taste, very pleasant organoleptic of Greece where the use of any It has a soft and spreadable texture cheese. Graviera of Naxos must properties, and is consumed as harmful substances (fertilizers, with sour-ish and a very pleasant, contain up to 38 percent moisture and at least 40 percent fat in dry matter. KALATHAKI OF LIMNOS Kalathaki of Limnos is tradition- al Greek cheese with Controlled Denomination of Origin (DOC). It is manufactured from ewe’s milk or mixtures with small quantities of goat’s milk on Limnos island. Kalathaki has a soft texture, is slightly sour and has a salty taste and pleasant organoleptic proper- ties, similar to those of Feta cheese. It is consumed as table cheese, in Greek salad, in cheese-pastries and very often as “saganaki” (shallow- KEFALOTIRI percent, fat: 19.4 percent, protein: fried cheese). The mean composi- Kefalotiri is traditional Greek 16.7 percent, salt three percent and tion of Kalathaki of Limnos is, mois- cheese with Controlled Denomina- a pH of 4.6. ture: 53.6 percent, fat: 25.3 per- tion of Origin (DOC), the long his- LADOTIRI OF MITILINI cent, protein: 17.4 percent, salt: tory and name of which are inti- Ladotiri is a traditional Greek 2.4 percent and a pH of 4.5. mately connected with the customs cheese with Controlled Denomina- KASSERI and dietary habits of the Greeks. It tion of Origin (DOC) which is ex- Kasseri is traditional Greek is manufactured from ewe's or clusively manufactured on Mitilini cheese, of “pasta filata” type, with goat's milk or mixture of the two in island from ewe’s milk or mixture controlled Denomination of Origin the regions of Macedonia, Sterea of it with goat’s milk. It is ripened (DOC). It is manufactured from Hellas, Peloponissos, Thessalia, for at least three months and is also ewe’s milk or a mixture with goat’s Crete island, Epirus, lonian islands known with the name “Kefalaki” milk in the regions of Macedonia, and Cyclades islands. Kefalotiri is (small head) due to its particular Thessalia, Mitilini island and Xan- considered the ancestor of many shape. The main characteristic of thi. Kasseri is a semi-hard cheese hard Greek cheeses. It has a salty this traditional cheese is that is pre- which is consumed as table cheese and piquant taste and a unique rich served in olive oil and this it is or used in the preparation of pizza. aroma which is obtained after called Ladotiri because (ladi=olive The mean composition of Kasseri is ripening for at least 3 months. It is oil, tiri=cheese). It has strong fla- table cheese or used in the prepara- pesticides etc.) is very scarce. It is refreshing taste and is consumed as : moisture 42.2 percent, fat 25.2 consumed as table cheese, grated vor, a hard texture with slightly tion of cheese-pastries. Dried An- distributed to the market in barrels, table cheese. The mean composi- percent, protein 25.8 percent, salt cheese, in cheese-pastries and as salty taste and is mainly consumed thotiros has hard texture, salty in tin boxes or in the form of plas- tion of Galotiri is, moisture: 70.8 3.1 percent and pH 5.7. saganaki (shallow-fried cheese). as table cheese. The mean composi- taste, a very rich flavor and is con- tic-wrapped pieces and is con- percent, fat: 13.8 percent, protein: KEFALOGRAVIERA The mean composition of Kefalotiri tion of Ladotiri is, moisture: 33.6 sumed as grated or table cheese. sumed as table cheese, in the fa- 9.8 percent, salt: 2.7 percent and a Kefalograviera is traditional is, moisture: 36.3 percent, fat: 28.8 percent, fat: 31.6 percent, protein: Fresh Anthotiros contains up to 70 mous Greek salad, in cheese-pas- pH of 4.1. Greek hard cheese with Controlled percent, proteins: 26.6 percent, 2.7 percent and a pH of 5.3. percent moisture and fat in dry tries and quite often as saganaki GRAVIERA OF CRETE Denomination of Origin (DOC) salt: 3.9 percent and a pH of 5.1. MANOURI matter of at least 65 percent, while (shallow-fried cheese). The aver- Graviera of Crete is traditional which is manufactured from ewe’s KOPANISTI Manouri is the most exceptional dried Anthotiros contains 40 per- age composition of Feta is, mois- Greek cheese with Controlled De- milk in the regions of Western Kopanisti is traditional Greek traditional Greek whey cheese with cent and 65 percent, respectively. ture: 52.9 percent, fat: 26.2 per- nomination of Origin (DOC), which Macedonia, Epirus, Etoloakarnania cheese with Controlled Denomina- Controlled Denomination of Origin FETA cent, proteins: 16.7 percent, salt: is exclusively manufactured in and Evritania. As the name of the tion of Origin (DOC) which is ex- (DOC). It is exclusively manufac- Feta is the most famous tradi- 2.9 percent and a pH of 4.4. Crete from ewe's milk or mixtures cheese indicates, its organoleptic clusively manufactured in Cyclades tured in Central and Western Mace- tional Greek cheese, dating back to FORMAELLA OF PARNASSOS with small quantities of goat's milk. properties stand between Kefalotiri islands from ewe’s, cow’s or goat’s donia and in Thessalia from whey the Homeric ages. It is a white soft Formaella of Parnassos is tradi- It is ripened for at least for five and Graviera cheese. It ripens at milk or mixtures. The main charac- derived from ewe’s or goat’s or a cheese, ripened and kept in brine tional Greek cheese with Con- months. Graviera of Crete is a high least for 3 months and is consumed teristics of Kopanisti are the intense mixture of them, with the addition for at least two months. It has been trolled Denomination of Origin quality hard cheese of propionic as table cheese, grated cheese, and salty and piquant taste and the soft of milk and/or cream (in larger and still remains a significant part (DOC). It is manufactured from fermentation with a slightly sweet quite often as “saganaki” (shallow- texture and rich flavor which ap- percentages than these used for an- of Greek diet and its name is often ewe’s or goat’s milk or mixtures, in taste and very pleasant organolep- fried cheese). The mean composi- proaches that of Roquefort. It is thotiros), when making hard connected with the Greek history the region of Arachova at the foot tic properties. It is consumed as tion of Kefalograviera is : moisture consumed as table cheese, in cheeses. Manouri is a soft cheese and tradition. The average (per of the Parnassos mountain. It is a table cheese. Graviera of Crete 35.4 percent, fat 31.3 percent, pro- cheese-pastries and as a snack with with unique taste and flavor. The capita) annual consumption of Feta hard cheese with piquant taste and must contain moisture up to 38 tein 25.9 percent, salt 3.4 percent wine and ouzo. The mean composi- in Greece is more than 12 Kg, out of rich flavor, which is consumed as percent, fat in dry matter at least 40 and pH 5.6. tion of Kopanisti is, moisture: 60.2 Continued on page 19

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By Jane Black cheese pies called tiropitas he Washington Post Staff Writer watched his mother make when he was growing up on Long Island to Braised Goat ichael Psilakis needs a goat. the smoked octopus with fennel He reserved one, but there puree and lemon confit that is a sig- Summary: Mwas confusion about when nature dish at Anthos. Goat takes longer to cook than lamb and is less forgiving of cooking the famous chef from New York Psilakis (pronounced see-LAH- errors. If this dish yields leftovers, use them to make a goat moussaka. would pick it up, and the village kees) is serious about wanting Serve with a rice pilaf. butcher sold it to someone else. Americans to understand Greek Without it, Psilakis could not make cuisine. In part, it's because he is, 4 to 6 generous servings the braised goat, the moussaka, the like all good chefs, reverent toward pasta with goat ragu or the tradi- food, particularly its power to Ingredients: tional Cretan wedding rice, which evoke memories and its ability to • 1 goat leg, on the bone, cut crosswise into 4 pieces (a scant 2 1/2 is cooked in goat broth. Most of the unite the family at the table. (Psi- pounds, or a scant 3 1/2 pounds with the neck) menu he has planned to show me lakis often compares his childhood • Kosher salt would be ruined. to a scene from the movie "My Big • Freshly cracked black pepper “Typical," Psilakis says as he Fat Greek Wedding" in which the • 3 tablespoons blended oil (90 percent canola oil, 10 percent extra- winds his way past fresh seafood, protagonist describes her family virgin olive oil) vegetables, local honey and this way: "You never just have a • 5 medium cloves garlic, coarsely chopped touristy T-shirts in the central mar- minute alone just to think, 'cause • 1/2 large Spanish or sweet onion, coarsely chopped ( 1 cup) ket of Heraklion, Crete's largest we're always together, just eating, • 1 medium carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped (3/4 to 1 cup) city. He lights a cigarette and in- eating, eating!") • 2 ribs celery, coarsely chopped (1 cup) hales deeply. "This is so Greek." In part, though, it's because Psi- • 3 tablespoons tomato paste Psilakis, 40, is one part irritated lakis has something to prove: that • 1 cup dry red wine but two parts amused. He has spent Greek food deserves the same re- • 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar his entire professional life evange- spect among Americans that • 2 teaspoons dried Greek oregano lizing about and explaining Greek French and Italian cuisine receive. • 2 tablespoons Dijon-style mustard food, so anything typically Greek, Greeks were making wine centuries • 4 quarts water even a typically Greek mistake, gets before the first vines were planted • 5 large sprigs thyme a pass. His haute establishment An- in Burgundy. The Mediterranean • 2 sprigs rosemary thos is the only Greek restaurant in diet was born in Crete, where Psi- • 1 tablespoon homemade or store-bought roasted garlic (see NOTE) the United States to have received a lakis's father grew up, not in Italy. • 3 fronds of dill, chopped (1 tablespoon) Michelin star; his more rustic Kefi Yet France had Julia Child. Italy has • 3 or 4 mint leaves, finely chopped (1 tablespoon) helped establish Manhattan's Up- Marcella Hazan. "How many times • Extra-virgin olive oil per West Side, long a culinary has someone asked me if this is re- desert, as a dining destination. This ally Greek food?" he says of the so- Directions: past spring, he was invited by the phisticated dishes at Anthos. "They Season the goat pieces liberally with kosher salt and pepper. White House to cook for a Greek In- don't get it." Heat a large, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven over medium-high dependence Day celebration. Now "How to Roast a Lamb" aims to heat, then add the blended oil. When the oil is very hot, add the goat Psilakis has a new cookbook, "How define Greek food. But the book is pieces and sear until deep golden brown on all sides. (This could take to Roast a Lamb" (Little, Brown, also a love letter to Psilakis's family. a total of 20 to 30 minutes.) Transfer the meat to a platter and pour off 2009), that tracks his culinary de- Michael Psilakis, seen here, is the founder and Executive Chef of New The recipes are a tribute to his most of the oil. velopment from the souvlaki and York-based Anthos restaurant, known for its elegant Greek cuisine. mother: her spanakopita, stuffed Add the garlic, onion, carrot and celery to the pot; cook for 3 to 5 baby eggplant and pastitsio, a kind minutes, stirring, until they have softened slightly. Add the tomato of Greek lasagna scented with nut- paste and cook for 1 minute, stirring to coat and to slightly caramelize meg. Many of the stories focus on the tomato paste. his father, Gus, who died in Sep- Add the red wine and vinegar, stirring to deglaze the pot. (Use a tember 2007. Indeed, the book's ti- wooden spoon to scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the tle stems from one of Psilakis's for- pot.) Cook for about 20 minutes, allowing the liquid to evaporate al- mative food memories: the first most completely. Add the oregano, mustard, water, thyme and rose- time he watched his father slaugh- mary; mix well. ter a lamb and understood where Return the goat pieces to the pot; season the mixture with 1 1/2 ta- meat actually comes from. blespoons kosher salt and a generous grinding of pepper. Bring just to Food was at the center of his a boil, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Partially cover and cook family life. But Psilakis did not de- for as long as 2 1/2 hours; at the start of cooking, skim off any scum cide to cook until -- wait for it – he that rises to the top (you may need to do this twice in the first 30 min- began working as a waiter at T.G.I. utes or so). The meat should be tender and falling off the bone. Fridays, he said. Making people Transfer the goat and any vegetables that haven't melted away to a feel welcome and feeding them was platter; discard the cooked herbs. Cover loosely to keep warm. what he had always done at home. Increase the heat to high under the pot; reduce any remaining pan It felt right. Soon, friends invited juices until thickened (this can take a few minutes), then add the him to help open a small Italian roasted garlic, chopped dill and mint; stir to combine. restaurant. Later, Psilakis took over, Drizzle the reduced pan juices over the goat and vegetables on the working some days as both chef platter, then finish with a drizzle of the extra-virgin olive. Serve warm. and waiter to make ends meet. In NOTE: To roast garlic, lop off the top of a head so that its cloves are 2004, he opened Onera, Greek for exposed a bit. Drizzle with olive oil and wrap tightly in aluminum foil, "dreams," in Manhattan. His mis- then roast for about 40 minutes in a 400-degree oven. Squeeze the sion to promote Greek food had be- cloves into a small bowl and mash to form a puree. gun. Greeks don't like change, Psi- Recipe Source: Adapted from "How to Roast a Lamb: New Greek lakis tells me as he carries the goat Classic Cooking," by Michael Psilakis (Little, Brown, 2009). we eventually found at another butcher into the kitchen at the Boutari winery outside Heraklion. The mistake cooks make with happy for cooks to replace the gar- The building is a blend of yellow octopus, Psilakis says, is that they lic, cumin and mustard seeds he stucco and glass that reflects the think of it as seafood, most of calls for with whatever they like; surrounding hills, planted in vine- which is best lightly sautéed or fennel, star anise and cardamom all yards and olive groves. Even this grilled. But octopus, like goat, is a work well. nod to modernity is an affront to braising meat: brisket of the sea, if Dinner is served under an arbor some Cretans, who with varying you will. For his family members, crawling with vines and shiny degrees of success have fought off who appreciate a chewy texture, white grapes. We start with the oc- invasion by the Romans, the Vene- he'll grill octopus. But in every dish topus and chickpea salad, flecked tians, the Turks and, during World at the restaurant, the octopus is with plump sun-dried tomatoes War II, the Germans. To Psilakis, braised first to break down the fi- and fresh herbs. Alongside the however, the building embraces the brous meat. braised goat is the rice, cooked in soul of Greek wine, and interprets Preparing octopus right turns the goat stock and finished with a and elevates it. out to be easier than I expected. pat of goat butter, and quick-pick- That is Psilakis's goal for Greek One slice removes the head, then I led beets served with Greek yogurt cuisine. The meal he has planned pop out the pointy beak and cut and a generous glug of the winery's uses local ingredients, such as the apart the legs. (Most octopus is sold olive oil. "There's a beauty in rustic goat and wild oregano (which has a frozen and already prepared.) We food that you can never capture in lemony finish "that you simply can- heat a skillet and sear the meat, be- haute cuisine. It takes you on a not find in the States"), and the ing careful not to crowd the pan. journey," Psilakis said. "I know way Greeks employ them. Psilakis's When the octopus turns a brilliant you've had a meal, probably in goat, for example, will go into sev- violet, we add a whole garlic clove Italy, that takes you somewhere." eral dishes. The meat will be and bay leaves. (The recipe calls for That I indeed had that meal in braised with aromatic vegetables crushed pepper flakes, but we don't Italy seems to frustrate Psilakis. It's and tomatoes; some of the sauce have any.) Then, we cover the pan not only that people think first of will be reduced to dress homemade and put it in the oven. The heat Italy. It's that Psilakis doesn't be- pasta called hilopites. The bones pulls water from the octopus to cre- lieve food should be treasured only will be used for stock, which Psi- ate the braising liquid. when it is exotic. His dearest food lakis will in turn use to cook the While the octopus cooks, we memories are these: making his rice. If there's any leftover goat, prepare the salad. The chickpea parents poached eggs and blueber- he'd like to make moussaka. confit calls for dried beans to be ry muffins and serving them in bed, Psilakis knows this is not the cooked, then cooled and drained pitting cherries for preserves with way Americans cook. He also and cooked again in fruity olive oil his mother, growing tomatoes and knows most of them are unfamiliar and spices. But Psilakis says it's fine hunting rabbits with his father. with or afraid of goat and octopus, to use canned chickpeas to save Food marks special occasions, Psi- the base for another dish on his time. He does recommend the extra lakis said. "But the point is, you menu. "I know Americans don't confit step, which adds richness don't have to go on a vacation to make this to then make that," he and a layer of flavor from the aro- have a moment like that. You can said. "But I wanted to show how it matics. As with a braise, Psilakis is have it at home." was done." We start with the goat. Psilakis and Harris Sakalis, one of his for- mer sous-chefs who now lives in Greece, make quick work of butchering the animal into recog- nizable cuts. Goat, Psilakis says, is lean like lamb. Rich cuts such as the tenderloin can be roasted, but much of the meat is best braised to avoid drying it out. Psilakis's recipe calls for dried oregano, thyme and rosemary, but he encourages home cooks to use whatever spices they like. For his part, he puts cinnamon sticks and bay leaves in almost everything. Cooks who don't want to use goat can easily substitute another lean meat, such as chicken, pheasant or rabbit. With the goat simmering on the stove, we move on to the octopus and chickpea salad. It's a dish I re- quested. Octopus is transcendent when it is cooked well, which it usually isn't: Instead of being ten- der and meaty, it arrives like octo- pus jerky. The chew is enough to put many Americans off octopus for good. (Also off-putting, I learn up- on my return, is that Mediter- ranean octopus is considered un- sustainable by the Monterey Bay Aquarium's Seafood Watch. Squid is an acceptable substitute in this recipe, though cooking procedures and times will need to be adjusted.) THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 21, 2009 Greek Food & Wine 2009 7 Inside the Mind (and Kitchen) of Greece’s Most Important Cook: Vefa

By Eleni Kostopoulos glophone countries where Greek plicity is the key of all the recipes in Vefa’s Pumpkin The National Herald Staff Reporter communities thrive,” said Ms. Alexi- the large and colourful hardback, adou. “[I knew] people wanted to marked by picturesque photos both Pie From Thanksgiving feast with a explore the gastronomy of Greece, of delicious dishes and the beautiful Greek twist would be incom- because that is the mother of parts of Greece from which they Sterea Ellada Aplete without touches of delec- Mediterranean diet; [Greek food] originate. The ingredients used in table dishes of authentic cuisine, travels beyond the community and the book are simple, and the proce- and there perhaps exists no more becomes familiar to the world. Be- dures are both easy-to-find and (Kolokithotiropita Strifti) suitable, experienced and well-re- ing a participant of the Frankfurt’s well-detailed. spected home cook than Vefa Alexi- Bookfair for 25 years, I had the big “The dishes were born through • 3 lb (1.5 kg) pumpkin or adou to translate those special dream to find a big foreign publisher my experimentations. One of my white or yellow winter Greek touches to a traditional to publish my Greek cuisine. Thanks specialties and my beloved dishes is squash, peeled and cut into Turkey tabletop. With her newest to Edouard Cointreau, who recom- mantilakia ala Vefa, the food that re- pieces sizeable cookbook, “Vefa’s Kitchen”, mended me unequivocally to ally established me in the world of • 1/2 teaspoon salt dubbed by critics as the first “Big Phaidon Press, as the best person for gastronomy. Apart from the unique • generous 1 cup (225 g / 8 Fat” bible of authentic Greek cook- this difficult undertaking, all my ef- relish, the dish also had an attractive oz) superfine (caster) sugar ing, Ms. Alexiadou features more forts came through. The Bible of au- presentation which in 1980, when • scant 1/2 cup (80 g / 3 oz) than 650 easy-to-follow recipes fit thentic Greek Cooking, titled “Vefa’s my first book “Invitation in Dinner” shortgrain rice, parboiled for all seasons and holidays. The pri- Kitchen” became a reality on June was circulating, was a pioneering • 1 small onion, grated and mary ingredient to Ms. Alexiadou’s 2009. After 25 years, my efforts move for the Greeks. At the time, blanched success, however, is, and always has were crowned with success.” Greeks weren’t known for present- • 1 tablespoon ground been, love. “Vefa's Kitchen” now circulates in ing dishes to catch the eye, but they cinnamon, plus extra for “I grew in a home where the dusting preparation of food was really a fun- • cup (150 ml / 1/4 pint) olive damental concern,” Ms. Alexiadou • oil or melted clarified butter, told The National Herald in a recent or a mixture interview. “The aromatic scents that • 1 lb 2 oz (500 g) ready-made came from the kitchen dominated phyllo (filo) or Homemade the whole house. Preparing and phyllo dough (filo pastry), cooking food was a ritual that sur- • confectioners’ (icing) sugar, passed the simple biological need for dusting for food, transubstantiating flavors of dishes during seasons and periods Grate the squash and toss of feasts and fasts.” with the salt, then let drain in a Tradition in Greek cuisine is al- colander overnight. most as important as the food itself, Squeeze out the remaining according to Ms. Alexiadou, who not- liquid and mash the squash ed the strong connection between with a fork in a bowl. scents and childhood memories. Add the sugar, rice, onion, “Each specific period of time was cinnamon, and 4 tablespoons of marked by a characteristic dish: Vefa Alexiadou, seen above, has earned her title as the leading culi- the melted butter, oil, or mix- How can I imagine a Christmas nary authority in Greece, having authored about a dozen cookooks. ture. without melomakarona? Easter Preheat the oven to 350oF without lamb on the spit? The day of (180oC / Gas Mark 4) and brush Euaggelismou without fish?” a 14-inch (35-cm) round bak- Ms. Alexiadou added that her ing pan with melted butter or mother, who was a wonderful oil. homemaker herself, was one of the If using homemade phyllo main reasons she took up cooking as dough, divide it into 12 equal a profession. pieces and roll out into very “My mother was the model of an thin sheets. ideal woman,” Ms. Alexiadou said. Brush half of each sheet with “She was the one who inspired me, melted butter or oil, fold the who instilled in me a passion with other half over it, and brush it her love of cooking. [When my pro- again. fession developed], it was the pre- Spread 3-4 tablespoons of sentation of dishes from television the filling along the long edge that [inspired me even more]. the English language, as well as in were more focused on flavor alone. and roll it up into a cylinder. Specifically, it was the enormous Italian, Spanish and French. This is also the difference that made Coil the roll into a spiral in the success of Cook Julia Child, a “The whole world now is offered my books stand out for Greeks all center of the baking pan. Re- woman who made her mark in the possibility of cooking and of over the world.” peat with the other phyllo America.” knowing how many simple, tasty Ms. Alexiadou told TNH the se- sheets to form a large spiral. With her own unique style, many and healthy ways of cooking stem cret to success, in and out of the Brush with melted butter or oil agree Ms. Alexiadou became the from Greece,” she said. “Now I want kitchen, is to love what you do. and bake for 1 hour, or until “Julia Child” of Greece, presenting to pass the secrets of the simple, “I belong in the category of indi- golden. recipes and decorative ideas in daily tasty and healthy cooking of Greece viduals who really love their profes- Sprinkle with confectioners’ emissions that were cherished by beyond the Greek communities.” sions. Besides material remunera- sugar and cinnamon and serve millions of Greece, and eventually, “Vefa’s Kitchen” has been de- tion, you enjoy the joy and the satis- warm or cold. by Greeks outside of the border. scribed as a heavy bible represent- faction that is provided when your Makes: 1 large pie “My books, particularly those ing Greek cooking and culture. Con- job is also your pastime. You work Preparation time: 12.5 translated in the English language, taining hundreds of traditional with a bigger appetite, more mirth; hours (including draining). have successfully circulated in recipes, collected from all over you attribute effortlessly and better; Cooking time: 1 hour America for many years as well as in Volos-born Alexiadou, right, combines her culinary talents with sci- Greece, the first edition of “Vefa’s you are not tired and you are never Australia, Canada and in other An- ence; she holds a degree in chemistry from the Aristotle University. Kitchen” has already sold out. Sim- bored.” 8 Greek Food & Wine 2009 THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 17, 2007 A Greek American Thanksgiving: Holding on to My Bountiful Family Customs

By Maria A. Karamitsos from Yiayia’s recipes. Plates of feta and kasseri Special to The National Herald cheeses, plus Greek olives, as well as Greek sal- ad, also adorned the table. As I grew older and began to cook, I would bring mezedakia; usually s long as I can remember, in our family, this something seasonal, so on Thanksgiving, I’d pre- uniquely American holiday was always pare kolokithokeftedes, and my uncles would al- AGreek-infused. Even with five of my moth- ways request my meatless dolmadakia. One of er’s six siblings married to non-Greeks and of dif- my aunts would usually make taramosalata and ferent religions, every holiday, every event, had skordalia as well. Greek music would typically its own Greek flavor. dominate the occasion. Dessert always included My late grandfather, James Lalagos, who was Yiayia’s kourambiedes and koulouria, as well as a well-known businessman in Chicago’s original pumpkin pie, sometimes pecan pie, and Dad’s ri- Greektown, had a very special recipe for a meat zogallo. A few years back, I took over the baking dressing. He passed away in 1963, however, the of Yiayia’s cookies, and began to bake melo- family has faithfully and lovingly prepared this makarona as well. Though traditionally a Christ- recipe in his honor at every Thanksgiving. He’d mas cookie, this confection, featuring a mix of said it was a family recipe he’d brought from clove, nutmeg, cinnamon and allspice – an Greece, which he refined at his Acropolis Tavern amalgamation whose aroma evokes the feeling and Restaurant. Made of ground beef, chestnuts, of fall –seems so appropriately suited for pine nuts and more, this distinctive “stuffing” Thanksgiving. To some, this cornucopia may was something we always looked forward to seem an odd combination of tastes and smells; with great anticipation. In fact, for years, the however, to us it is a return to our childhood, to making of this dressing, with its many steps – the home, heart and love of Yiayia. This is how and of course to make enough to feed a small every holiday has been celebrated in our family, army – my aunt and uncle would host a party the along with other items traditional to a specific weekend before Thanksgiving, to gather people holiday, such as red eggs at Easter. to assist in the preparations. Everyone had a As the years have gone by, Yiayia has passed task. We’d sip wine, tell stories, eat pizza or on and the family has grown, though the sandwiches, and listen to Greek music. The par- Thanksgiving gathering has gotten smaller. ty grew to include neighbors and friends, and Cousins now attend parties with their in-laws. I many of us believed it was more fun than the ac- often hear them reminisce about the uniquely tual holiday itself. Greek-spiced Thanksgiving we would have, and Now the Thanksgiving bounty contained so enjoyed. more than Papou’s special dressing. My father, This year, as I embark on hosting Thanksgiv- Gregory Fotinopoulos, who also was in the ing for the very first time, I’m developing the restaurant business for many years, counts menu based on our distinctively Greek-inspired among his specialties roasted lamb with pota- tradition. Yes, we’ll have turkey, sweet potatoes toes and Greek rice pudding. My dad would nev- and pumpkin pie. Nevertheless, our table will al- er show up to a holiday without his special dish- so include traditional Greek foods, and certainly, es; and so a holiday wasn’t a holiday without since it’s a party at our home, there will be Greek them. Yes, we had lamb on Thanksgiving in ad- dancing. Family, friends, delicious food, music dition to the turkey. The menu always included and dancing; sounds like the recipe for a perfect pastitsio, plus spanakopites and tiropites, made holiday. Utilizing Your Cultural Roots to Spice Up a Traditional Thanksgiving Day Dinner

By Michele Kayal tered in with heaping trays of short put into teaching these kids about bration. If Valladolid sees ethnicizing and cinnamon. The homemade The Associated Press ribs called kalbi-jim, the pickled the Thanksgiving holiday — it was "We don't segregate it," she says. Thanksgiving as a way to bring the cranberry sauce has touches of gin- cabbage called kimchi, and the done in the schools — and attribut- "It's not like the turkey is American family's older generation into the ger, black pepper, cloves and cinna- Nothing says Thanksgiving noodle dish chop che. "We would ing all kinds of virtues to the saint- and then there are tamales. There's new tradition, others see the re- mon. "So it's a little more interest- like... pastitsio? have Korean dishes that were tradi- ed pilgrim forefathers, really ele- chili in the turkey." verse: a way to preserve and com- ing than plain old canned cranber- "For Thanksgiving, my mother tionally cooked on celebratory oc- vating them beyond their signifi- Valladolid glazes her turkey municate culture to the next gener- ry," he says. actually did a turkey, which was a casions and your Thanksgiving go- cance," Oliver says. with an apricot, tequila and chili ation. He also makes sure there's lots pretty big step for her, but every- to classics. It was a feast." "There are pictures of these little sauce and serves it alongside roast- At New York's Tabla, Bombay- of heavy, Indian-style snacking on thing else on the table was Greek," Americans come from more kids kitted out in pilgrim hats, no ed chipotle acorn squash and Brus- born chef Floyd Cardoz is known items such as samosas and spiced says Michael Psilakis, the chef be- than 125 nations, according to matter who they were. It met with sels sprouts in morilla cream. Val- for merging Indian spices and sen- potato dumplings before the meal, hind New York's Anthos restaurant. Census figures, and more than 299 some success. Kids are really good ladolid says the feast was inspired sibilities with American ingredi- and that there are plenty of Indian For his family, pastitsio, a million people — or 97 percent of about going home and saying, 'We by her cross-border experience, but ents. After more than 20 years in specialties as well, like rice pulao lasagna-like dish of noodles and the population — claim ethnic have to have turkey on Thursday.'" also was a way to make the holiday the United States, he does the same and a Goan pork stew full of pork eggy, Greek bechamel sauce, was roots. So it's only fitting that on this The founders probably didn't truly inclusive for everyone in the at his Thanksgiving feast. belly, shoulder, liver and chili. just as important as the bird. iconic American holiday people count on the ingenuity of the new- family. Cardoz brines his turkey in a "By putting our beliefs into a Thanksgiving called for a similar draw on the melting pot for inspira- comers, many of whom did adopt "My father barely speaks Eng- pungent solution of fresh ginger meal, it ties my past with my kids' blending of cultures in the Korean tion. the holiday, but in their own way. lish," she says. "This holiday is very and bay leaf, then dry rubs it with future," says Cardoz, whose sons household of chef David Chang, At the turn of the 19th century, Marcela Valladolid, author of new for him. He started celebrating black pepper, chilies, fresh garlic are 12 and 16. who dubs the famous pork buns, Thanksgiving was appropriated as the cookbook "Fresh Mexico," grew Thanksgiving when he married my and crushed bay leaf. "I rub it all "At some point when they have ginger scallion noodles and ramen a way to "Americanize" new immi- up crossing the U.S.-Mexico border mom. Try to sit down and have over the bird and under the skin their kids and they're doing their of his Momofuku restaurants grants, says Sandra Oliver, the edi- every day, leaving her Tijuana Thai food for the first time. It's in- too," he says. "It makes it more fla- Thanksgiving tradition, maybe "American" food. tor of Food History News and co- home before dawn to attend school timidating. And I imagine that was vorful." there will be something from India "Thanksgiving was almost a author of "Giving Thanks," a history in San Diego. She says she ab- the way my father felt the first time His stuffing spikes a cornbread in there, and it will bring them potluck," Chang says, remembering of the holiday. sorbed both cultures "100 percent" he sat down in front of a big fat base with Goan-style pork sausage, back. It ties up the generations the dozens of relatives who tot- "There was considerable effort and so has her Thanksgiving cele- turkey." redolent of vinegar, garlic, cloves when you do this."

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A Division of the Makkos Organization THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 17, 2007 Greek Food & Wine 2009 9 Add a Dose of Love to Your Greek American Holiday with Recipes Easy as 1,2,3

sliced Turkey with • Cinnamon for dusting • 3/4 cup milk or orange juice Chestnut Stuffing • handful of raisins Hungry.gr • handful of walnuts

INGREDIENTS: PREPARATION: • 1 turkey (with intestines finely Take a large round pan and coat chopped) it with 2 tablespoons of butter, 3 ta- • 1 onion chopped into fine pieces blespoons sugar and some cinna- • 3 spoonfuls bread crumbs mon. Place the apple slices in a cir- • 5 spoonfuls butter cle until pan is covered. On top of • 1 chirp cup of wine milk the apples, sprinkle the raisins and • 1 and 1/2 to 2 pounds of walnuts. For dough, mix eggs, sug- chestnuts boiled and cleaned ar, vanilla, milk or juice and flour • Some cinnamon until texture is ready and roll out. • Juice of a lemon Place dough mixture on top of ap- • Salt ples. Bake at 325 degrees for about • Pepper 45 minutes or until golden brown. Allow pie to cool until ready to PREPARATION: serve. Wash the turkey well. Add salt and pepper. In large saucepan, add two spoonfuls of butter and diced Spinach Strudels onion. After onions are sautéed and soft, add diced intestines. When Allrecipes.com they have browned, add milk and leave the food to boil for several INGREDIENTS: minutes. Add chestnuts and after • 1/2 cup olive oil two to three minutes, add a pinch • 1 bunch green onions, chopped of cinnamon, salt and pepper. • 2 (10 ounce) packages frozen When the mixture begins to boil, chopped spinach, thawed, well remove the saucepan from the heat drained and mix well, adding the serving of • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill breadcrumbs. Mix well. Proceed to • 3 extra large eggs, lightly beaten stuff the turkey until full and sew • 7 ounces feta cheese, crumbled the opening. cabbage, allowing it to cool off and • Kosher salt; to taste oughly mixing with each addition. *Look for Chef Botsacos making • 1/4 teaspoon salt Rub the turkey with a lemon or pulling leaves apart. Place about 1- • Freshly-ground black pepper; to The meat mixture should be moist his special keftedes on Late Night • 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground add lemon juice. Then, place it in a 2 TBL of a mixture of the cooked taste to the touch, but not wet. Form with Jimmy Fallon, on the video black pepper baking pan, drizzling the remain- meat and rice at the base of each • 4 slices White bread meat into small balls about 1-inch section of www.thenationalher- • 40 sheets frozen phyllo pastry, ing butter on top. Cook at 325 de- leaf and roll away from you. Place • 1 cup Whole milk -; (to 2 cups) in diameter. Set a large, heavy-bot- ald.com. thawed in refrigerator grees (for 8 to 12 pounds, 3 to 3 in a large pot even making two lay- • 1/2 pounds Lean ground beef tomed sauce pan over medium heat • 1 cup unsalted butter, melted 1/2 hours; for 12 to 14 pounds, 3 ers. Fill the pot with enough water • 1/4 pounds Ground lamb and add the remaining 3 table- • 1/2 cup plain bread crumbs 1/2 to 4 hours; for 14 to 18 pounds, and/or chicken broth to cover the • 2 Garlic cloves; peeled, chopped spoons of olive oil. Heat until oil is Milopita – Greek- 4 to 4 1/4 hours). When the turkey rolls and above about 1-2 inches. • 3 tablespoons Chopped fresh hot, but not smoking. Cook meat- PREPARATION: is golden brown, place it on the Place a clean plate on top so they parsley balls, turning, until all sides are Preheat oven to 400 degrees F oven-top and add more lemon won't open up. Put a lid on and let • 1 large Egg browned, about 5 minutes. Move Style Apple Pie (200 degrees C). In a medium skil- juice. them simmer for about 30-40 min- • 1/2 teaspoon Dried oregano meatballs from heat and drain on let, heat olive oil over a medium When cooking is complete, re- utes. • Red Sauce paper towels. Bring sauce to a sim- INGREDIENTS: heat. Stir in green onions and cook move twine and serve on platter. Avgolemono: Beat three eggs • Extra-virgin olive oil; for garnish mer and add meatballs. Cook 25 to • 2 and 1/2 cups flour until soft, about 5 minutes. Set and the juice of two lemons in a 30 minutes, uncovered. To serve, • 1/2 pound of butter aside. Meanwhile in a large bowl, large bowl. When the rolls are PREPARATION: plate 4 meatballs per person, sprin- • 1 cup sugar combine spinach, dill, eggs, feta, Kastorian Sarmades done, turn the pot a bit to ladle out Preheat oven to 350 degrees. kled with additional cumin, fresh • 4 eggs salt and pepper. Add reserved the hot broth. Ladle the hot broth Place bread crumbs on cookie sheet parsley and drizzle with extra-vir- • 2 small packets vanilla green onions, and mix well. Unfold into the egg mixture. When the and place in oven on center rack. gin olive oil. • 2 apples cleaned, cored and 1 sheet of the phyllo pastry, brush (Cabbage Rolls with egg/lemon mixture is very hot, Toss bread crumbs every couple of with melted butter, and sprinkle pour it back into the pot with the minutes, for about 5 to 7 minutes. lightly with breadcrumbs. Lay an- Avgolemono Sauce) sarmades. Shake the pot to distrib- Set aside to cool. Heat 1 tablespoon other sheet directly on top of the ute well. of the olive oil in a sauce pan over first sheet; repeat butter and bread- INGREDIENTS: medium-low heat. Add onions, crumb steps. Continue to do this • 1 large head of cabbage or 4 to 5 cumin, and season with salt and until you have 10 layers. Spoon 3/4 small cabbages Chef Jim Botsacos’ pepper. Sautee onions until trans- cup of spinach mixture (in a • 1 pound of ground beef parent, stirring occasionally about 5 sausage-like shape) along longer • 1 grated onion to 7 minutes. Remove from heat, set edge of the top sheet. Roll it up, • 1/2 cup of medium grain rice Keftedes with Red aside and cool. Place sliced bread in place on baking sheet, and brush • 1 egg a bowl and add milk to cover. Soak lightly with butter. Score off 1-inch • 1/2 cup fresh or 2 tablespoons Sauce until bread becomes soft, pressing rounds by marking with a knife for dried parsley on bread to absorb liquid. Drain ex- easier cutting later. Repeat process • salt and pepper INGREDIENTS: cess milk. In a mixing bowl, com- with the remaining pastry sheets. • 1/4 cup Bread crumbs - (to 1/2 bine ground meats and sautéed You will have 4 rolls total when fin- PREPARATION: cup) onion with garlic, parsley, egg and ished. Bake in a preheated oven for Core out a large hole in the cab- • 1 medium Yellow onion; peeled, milk-soaked bread. Work mixture 12 minutes or until edges are light- bage and place hole-side down in a diced fine with your hands until ingredients ly brown. Cut into individual serv- large pot with about 2 inches of wa- • 4 tablespoons Olive oil are well combined. Add toasted ings where you have marked. Serve ter. Boil for 15 to 20 minutes. Lift • 1/2 teaspoon Ground cumin bread crumbs a bit at a time, thor- immediately.

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The god Apollo’s first love was the nymph Dafni. As he pur- sued her, she called upon the gods to help her escape him and was immediately transformed into a laurel tree. Still in love with her, Apollo vowed to always wear a crown of laurel. As the originator of the Pythian games, and as the god of poetry, he swore to crown all victors, heroes and poets with wreaths wo- ven of laurel leaves.

The leaf of the laurel tree is also known as the bay leaf (dafni, in Greek). It is an Καλή σας όρεξη essential ingredient in many cuisines, especially those of the Mediterranean. Used either fresh of dried, the leaves impart a subtle but distinctive flavor and fragrance to food.

On behalf of Dafni, we welcome you and wish you Καλή Ορεξη! 10 Greek Food & Wine 2009 THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 21, 2009 Food for Thought, a Quiz

1. Which of the following is not a type of Greek olive? a. kalamata b. stafidholyes c. kokinosouvles d. koroneiki e. megharitiki

2. Retsina is one of the oldest, consistently-produced wines in the world. What gives it its unique flavor? a. lemons b. green apples c. pine tree resin d. raisins e. jasmine flowers

3. What is the basic ingredient in ouzo? a. aniseed Queens-based Artopolis is an Odyssey of confectionery, pastries, breads, cakes, tarts, right, tends to customers by not only helping them find the best traditional Greek and b. brandy pies, and creations of Mediterranean Delights. Artopolis’ Manager Regina Katopodis, European-inspired sweets, but by taking the time to learn about them and their likes. c. fennel d. hazelnut e. mint

4. What is the chief food of the Patisserie Artopolis Commemorates Fall with Festive Cornucopia traditional wedding feast in Greek villages? By Angelike Contis a client’s cell phone to speak to his a. fresh fish The National Herald Staff Writer son about his flashy new car. (“I b. suckling pig love cars!” Katopodis confesses.) c. stuffed vine leaves soureki filled with chocolate And she asks a baritone about his d. cheese pies and cheesecake and chestnuts. Pumpkin, ap- upcoming concert in Cyprus. e. spit-roast lamb Tple, pecan and blueberry pies. Katopodis, whose roots are in Cranberry tart made with almond Sparta and Mani, is delighted that 5. This food is eaten paste. Hungry yet? These are a few Artopolis has become a meeting throughout in Greece as an of the Thanksgiving options that place for Greeks. It’s not just “kafe- appetizer or a meze, but in will be available at Greek nion” gossip, either, she points out, Crete, it is a staple. Is it… bakery/patisserie Artopolis. noting that Artopolis has become a a. cod “We do the traditional American gathering place of academics, pub- b. tuna thing,” says the Astoria shop’s co- lishers and artists too. “That’s what c. sardines owner and manager, Regina pleases me so much, that this has d. mackerel Katopodis, of the biggest food-cen- become a meeting place, in a more e. snails tric holiday in the U.S. Year round, intellectual way.” Artopolis specializes in following As for her own Thanksgiving, af- the Greek calendar of feasts (as well ter spending the day at Artopolis, as some Lenten fasts). But on No- each year Katopodis races, after vember 26, there will also be cakes 6pm, to her sister’s house for there reading “Happy Thanksgiv- “American stuff” like turkey, home- ing” too. made cranberry sauce, sweet pota- Artopolis, located a short dis- toes and Theia (Aunt) Aglaia’s tance from the Astoria-Ditmars sub- amazing stuffing. way terminus, quickly became a fix- Even when she lived in Greece ture among sweet tooths since for 14 years, Artopolis’ co- opening in 2003. The shop has the owner/manager insisted on cele- décor of a high-end Athens patis- brating Thanksgiving… though serie, with a central wooden kiosk finding a turkey wasn’t always easy. and packages and ribbons imported When Katopodis was living on Itha- from Greece to boot. An employee of Artopolis happily waits behind the baked goods counter to serve the following customer. ca island in 1978, she had a bird “Nothing is too sweet,” notes shipped to her from Patras. The cov- Katopodis of the traditional Greek younger folk often can be found sip- the constant flow of news there. imported koufeta (sugar coated al- eted turkey arrived - to her horror - and European-influenced sweets in ping Greek coffee or frappees at Ar- In between juggling orders and monds) for their big day. Katopodis still covered in feathers. Thankfully the shop. “Nothing is too anything,” topolis’ little tables. phone calls, the Brooklyn-bred doesn’t miss a beat in telling a today, she notes, turkeys are more

she adds. As a food lover, I enjoy Artopolis’ Katopodis spends much of her day woman what the best cake is for a readily available in Greece.

Greek is often the lingua franca Belgian chocolate and nut wafers talking to customers. She consults 40-year-old male chocolate lover Artopolis E 5. E, 4. A, 3. C, 2. C, 1.

: as people order bread, boxes of and the luscious traditional galakto- with soon-to-be-married couples colleague. But Artopolis’ manager Agora Plaza 23 - 18 31 St., Answers goodies or a quick tiropita (cheese boureko (custard pie) alike. As a sampling traditional items like also inquires about the health of a Astoria pie) for their children. Retirees and journalist though, I’m amazed by kourambiedes (sugar cookies) and customer’s father. She eagerly takes Tel: (718) 728- 8484

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fresh eggs and milk. Proudly serving the Greek American Corner of 30th Avenue & 33rd Street - Astoria, NY 11102 and wider Astoria communities for (718) 932-9876 the past 26 years 12 Greek Food & Wine 2009 THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 21, 2009 THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 21, 2009 Greek Food & Wine 2009 13 14 Greek Food & Wine 2009 THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 21, 2009 THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 21, 2009 Greek Food & Wine 2009 15 Christine Cushing’s Cypriot Recipes Commandaria Roasted Pears Baby Rocket Salad with Halloumi Wrapped in Proscuitto Croutons in Citrus Olive Oil Vinaigrette

This appetizer is a great twist on a classic proscuitto with melon. The INGREDIENTS: ripe pear is roasted until the wine concentrates its earthy honey notes, Salad creating a perfect balance of fruit and salt. • 5 oz package baby rocket (arugula), washed • 5 oz Halloumi cheese cut into 1/2 inch cubes INGREDIENTS: • 1/4 cup fine corn meal • 2 ripe bosc pears, peeled, cored, and cut into fourths • 2 tablespoon grape seed oil for frying • 1 1/2 cups Commandaria wine (375 ml) • 1 beet, thinly sliced on a mandolin and shallow fried until crisp. • 1 tbsp. honey (15 ml) • Several strips lemon zest Citrus Dressing • 2 sprigs fresh thyme • 2 tablespoon fresh lemon juice • 8 slices prosciutto, cut in half • 2 tablespoon fresh orange juice • Grated zest of 1 orange and 1 lemon PREPARATION: • 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard Preheat oven to 375 degrees F. • 1/2 teaspoon vin cotto or balsamic vinegar In a medium roasting pan or dish, arrange pear wedges, so they are • Salt and freshly cracked black pepper, to taste not overlapping. • 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil Whisk together the honey with wine in a small bowl. Pour over pears. Add the lemon zest and thyme sprigs. PREPARATION: Bake the pears for about 25-30 minutes or until pears are soft and 1. Wash and dry the arugula and place in a medium bowl. golden, stirring occasionally to prevent scorching. 2. To make the dressing, combine the citrus juices and zests, mus- Remove only pears from pan (discard thyme sprigs) and let pears tard, vin cotto or balsamic with salt and pepper and whisk well. While cool on a plate. Creamy Wild Mushroom & whisking slowly pour in the oil and combine well. Set aside. Transfer remaining liquid into a small saucepan and simmer uncov- 3. Dust the Halloumi cubes in fine corn meal, tossing gently in a ered over medium heat until it’s the thickness of honey. Commandaria Soup bowl. Transfer to a plate and discard remaining corn meal. To serve, wrap pear wedge in a half slice prosciutto and arrange on 4. In a medium skillet, heat grape seed oil over medium high temper- platters. Drizzle with reduced wine. ature. Fry the Halloumi for about 5 minutes, turning often to get a dark For the creative ones, garnish with herbs such as parsley. This Commandaria wine is a perfect match with the earthly flavours golden crust. Serves 4 of wild mushrooms and takes this classic soup to new heights. 5. Remove from heat and transfer back to plate. 6. Toss the greens with the vinaigrette and cheese gently to coat. INGREDIENTS: Sprinkle with beet chips and serve immediately. • 2 Tbsp. Butter (25 ml) Serves 4 • 4 shallots, chopped • 1 clove garlic, chopped • 1/4 tsp. fresh chopped ginger (2 ml) • 1 leek, thoroughly washed, white part only, chopped • 2 stalks celery, diced • 1 cup Commandaria wine (250 ml) • 5 cups assorted mushrooms (Portobello & shitake), washed and sliced (1.25L) • 1 pinch grated nutmeg • 3 sprigs fresh thyme • 1 small Yukon gold potato, peeled and diced • 6 cups chicken stock or vegetable stock (1.5L) • Salt and pepper to taste • 1/2 - 3/4 cup whipping cream ( 125 -175 ml), depending on your taste • 1 Tbsp. lemon juice (15 ml) • Chopped fresh tarragon to taste

PREPARATION: In a large, pot heat butter on medium. Add the shallots, garlic, gin- ger, celery and leek and sweat for about 7-9 minutes until just soft. Add the wine and increase heat to high and simmer uncovered until liquid is syrupy and almost evaporated. Add the sliced mushrooms and reduce heat to medium and cook for about 5-8 minutes until mushrooms are soft. Add the nutmeg, fresh thyme, diced potato, chicken stock, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil. Reduce to low heat and simmer covered for 30 minutes or until vegetables are soft. Add cream and bring back to the boil. Add the lemon juice and ad- just seasoning. Puree the soup with an immersion wand blender for sev- eral seconds for a creamier soup. Add freshly chopped tarragon just be- fore serving. For added flavour, sauté a few small shitake caps in hot butter until golden and serve on top of soup with sprigs of tarragon. Serves 4-6

Improve Your Health with Greek Food

hese are major points of the diet followed by the fish, but generally in smaller quantities, and less fre- people of rural Crete who scored the highest of all quently. We also incorporate garlic and onions every- Tin heart health in several international studies. where possible (we like them), and they are heart Incorporating these elements of the Greek diet into healthy additions as well. everyday menus, combined with increased physical ac- Over recent years, the Greek diet, even in rural ar- tivity, can have a positive effect on heart health. eas, has been modified by the availability of fast foods, USE OLIVE OIL processed foods, and junk foods, so we, too, need to Olive oil is one of the "healthy" fats, meaning it's a take a lesson from the traditional ways of our parents monounsaturated fat. This type of fat can actually low- and grandparents. er the LDL ("bad") cholesterol, and in 2004, the FDA recognized claims that replacing other fats with olive From Nancy Gaifyllia, for About.com oil can help reduce heart disease risk. INCREASE BARLEY PRODUCTS (AND OTHER WHOLE GRAINS) It's long been known that whole grains can help re- duce the risk of heart disease, but just recently, the FDA chimed in once again to recognize claims that barley and barley products do indeed reduce the risk of coro- nary disease. Barley and other whole grains are an im- portant part of the Cretan diet, used in cracked grain breads and our famous barley rusks. EAT THOSE LEAFY GREENS Our Cretan diet is based largely on vegeta- bles, with no shortage of dark leafy greens, both those we pick in the wild and those we buy. Leafy greens contain lutein, known to prevent clogged arteries (atherosclerosis). DON'T FORGET THE LEGUMES (PULSES) Legumes are that group of beans, peas, and lentils that are high in fiber and combat heart dis- ease. The Cretan (and Greek) diet is filled with fabu- lous dishes using many varieties of legumes. KEEP IT NATURAL Aglaia Kremezi, a well-known Greek food expert and author, says that the art of traditional Greek cook- ing is taking a natural, fresh ingredient and doing the least possible to it. Refined and processed foods don't help a healthy heart. Keeping the basic structure of food is important, and sticking with foods that are rec- ognizable in their original form is the key. Shop healthy to stay healthy. Of course, the Greek diet also includes meat and Thanksgiving on A Budget: Money-saving tips

From epicurious.com turkeys can be fine alternatives for $5, but you would wind up with a less than $2 a pound. more watery filling than one made o for What's in Season: When Start from Scratch: Some con- from a $2.49 can. planning your meal, first con- venience foods are often ridicu- Don't Be a Slave to a Recipe: If Gsult the calendar. This is no lously cheap, loaded as they are you don't want to spring for three time for asparagus and artichokes. with high-fructose corn syrup and kinds of herbs in your soup or stuff- Buy produce in season, and you will chemicals, yet they rarely taste bet- ing, choose one. Or none. Nothing get much more for your money, not ter than homemade. To cut costs but salt and pepper is ever really in- to mention livelier flavors. and ensure the tastiest of feasts, dispensable. Substitute water for Buy a Supermarket Bird: In an make your own pie crust, cranberry canned stock in a soup; use a slurry ideal world we would all be eating sauce, and gravy rather than open- of flour and water to thicken your heritage turkeys. They have out- ing up a box or can. pan gravy rather than making standing texture and flavor, and Know When to Buy Canned or turkey stock. when we buy them, we help pre- Frozen: Some canned and frozen Make It a Potluck: Don't be em- serve unique breeds. But they are foods are fine alternatives to fresh. barrassed to ask for help. People anything but a bargain: A 12- to 14- Canned pumpkin is one of the great are happy to pitch in and bring a pound bird—which feeds eight— American ingredients, and the dish or two, and potlucks are from Heritage Foods USA goes for generic brands are as good as pre- trendy right now (see our guide to $159 including shipping, or more mium labels. You could make a pie hosting or attending a Potluck than $10 a pound. Supermarket using a fresh cheese pumpkin for Thanksgiving). 16 Greek Food & Wine 2009 THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 21, 2009

By Aphrodite Matsakis for the issue of deserts. Special to The National Herald Since the vegans couldn’t have dairy products like milk or eggs, (The characters in the following sto- galatobouriko, koulourakia and ry are fictional. Any resemblance to kourampiedes and even most persons living or dead is purely coin- American cakes and cookies, were cidental.) out of the question. Regular bakla- va was off limits too, because of the nce upon a time, there was a butter used between layers of phyl- Greek American family lo. Then Anna remembered her Yi- Owho’s Yiayia and Papou had ayia telling her about how when never heard of Thanksgiving. she was a little girl, her parents had Trapped inside Hitler’s Greece, they a fight on Thanksgiving over hadn’t heard of Valentine’s Day nor Karpathian baklava, and her Yi- Colombus Day, until the war finally ayia’s stories about Karpathians ended and they came to live with taking their baklava with them on their son Tasos in Baltimore, who long trips. Because it was made had risen from dishwasher to the with wheaten flower, it was quite owner of a deluxe diner. He was sturdy; and because it contained no now also the Papa of two school- milk, eggs or other dairy products, age children. it could last for six months or more When the Yiayia asked which without refrigeration. saint Thanksgiving was named af- “Karpathian baklava is vegan!” ter, the Papa told her that Thanks- Anna announced. She was deter- giving had nothing to do with mined to make it, but the old- saints. Thanksgiving was simply an timers didn’t really use recipes. American holiday when families They made it “me to mati” (they gathered together to give thanks eyeballed it) and it was hard to find for all their blessings. any Karpathian Americans who “That’s-a-nice,” she replied. made it anymore. Undaunted, An- “How long do we have to fast?” na combed the Internet and “No fasting,” said the Grandson, tracked down every Karpathian she age 10. “You just have turkey.” could find until she learned how to Yiayia went white. “You mean make this ancient form of trail mix. we have to invite Turks to dinner?” That Thanksgiving, she adorned “No,” the Grandson continued. the table with a huge tray of “You just have a big dinner with lots Karpathian baklava, decorated of food, like turkey, pumpkin pie, Karpathian style with colorful bows corn and other foods the Indians and ribbons used to eat.” He tried to explain This Thanksgiving, as always, Karpathian Baklava: a Tale of Cultivating Culture Through Food about the Pilgrims and the Indians, ca and was supporting them too. Making Karpathian baklava is a spotted the Greek food immediate- In the years to come, the Papa the table will be loaded with food, but all his grandparents could un- Meanwhile, the Mama was in long involved process which begins ly and asked the Mama to remove relaxed his “only American” policy traditional Greek and American derstand was that the Pilgrims, like the kitchen busily creating a by rolling out dough then cutting it it. and Thanksgiving featured all dishes, as well as vegan, vegetari- themselves, were immigrants Thanksgiving disaster by trying to into one inch strips. The strips are She acted like she hadn’t heard kinds of foods. Over time, the Ma- an, low-fat and sugar-free delights. grateful to have made America persuade her meek sister to help then folded into a criss-cross, diag- him. When he told (ordered?) her a ma started buying pastichio, But there will be empty spots. The their home. her defy her sitherokefalo (iron- onal, oval-shape design where one second time, she just smiled sweet- kourampiedes and other time-con- Yiayias and Papous are missing and “I’ll make the lamb and Yiayia headed, stubborn) husband. oval shaped ring is surrounded by ly at him and said, “Happy Thanks- suming Greek specialties instead of some of the younger generation can fix the pastichio,” said the Pa- “This is America,” she whis- another, with some space in be- giving.” In an effort to contain him- making them. But Karpathian can’t make it back from college. pou. pered on the phone. “Women don’t tween. Today a pasta machine self, the Papa started fumbling with baklava was no where to be found Others need to spend the holiday “No lamb, no pastichio and no have to listen to their husbands all might be used to press the dough his komboloi. But then his father and the Mama, who years before with in-laws who live out of town. Greek nothing,” growled the Papa. the time. No matter what Tasos into the right size strips, but in the chuckled: “Kala na patheis, yie had risked the wrath of her hus- But come Christmas or Easter, “This is an American holiday and says, at the last minute, I’m going olden days, women used their mou. (You deserve it, my son). See band by making Karpathian bakla- they’ll be back. They always come we’re going to do everything Amer- to put feta and olives on the table. hands. what happens when you become so va, had begun to groan at the back, not for the food but for what ican-style. We’re Americans now, What’s he doing to do? Throw them The dough strips are then held American you don’t listen to your thought of all the work involved. the food represents – that sense of not Greeks.” Although the Papa at me in front of his parents? together with cloves, fried in oil father and teach your wife how to Eventually, it disappeared from the family unity. dearly loved Greek music and tradi- “I’m making Karpathian baklava and covered in a honey- based drive. Your wife snuck out of the Thanksgiving table, as did the older Should the Yiayias and the Pa- tions, he had experienced so much too. There will be so much food on syrup. Cinnamon and sometimes house and drove to her sister’s generation and, in time, she and pous of old be looking down on this poverty in Greece, he never wanted the table, Tasos won’t even notice powdered sugar and chopped al- house to do this to you.” the Papa too. year’s Thanksgiving table, surely to return. it; and if he does, I’ll just tell him it’s monds or pistachios are sprinkled The Papa pointed his finger at By now the 10 year-old, who they’ll be smiling, but not just be- “But what’s a holiday without a new kind of glazed donut. He’s on top and stick like glue to the the Mama and was about to call her once had tried to explain Thanks- cause Karpathian baklava is now lamb and why can’t we have both – never been to Karpathos, so he’ll thick honey glaze. a vre gynaika, when the Daughter, giving to his grandparents, was a the table’s centerpiece. They’re turkey and lamb?” asked the Pa- never know the difference. When The challenges are many: such age 10, sensing the fireworks that Papa himself. As Thanksgiving ap- happy because they see that despite pou. But the Papa wouldn’t hear of can I come to your house to make as making the strips the correct were about to explode, burst into proached, his daughter, Anna, an- the tensions between them due to it. it? I’ll need one whole day, maybe length and width, arranging them tears. “Why can’t we have a nice nounced that she didn’t want lamb differences of personality and the They argued for hours. The Pa- more, and all the help you can give in the right shape, then frying each quiet Thanksgiving like the Ameri- or turkey. While she was away at pressures of assimilation, they suc- pou couldn’t believe that his son re- me.” baklava enough so that it’s cooked cans do? How come there’s always college, she had become a vegetari- ceeded in creating a strong sense of fused to serve lamb on a holiday The island of Karpathos, located sufficiently but not so much that it fights about Greek stuff? How an and some of the cousins coming family among their descendants, and, even worse, he was trying to between Crete and Rhodes, fea- falls apart. come we’re so American we can’t to dinner were vegan. Her parents who despite the forces of fragmen- reverse the traditional order of tures a uniquely flavored and That Thanksgiving, the Mama have feta, but so Greek that I have promised to provide a vegan tation in today’s society, are grate- things, where fathers, not children, shaped baklava. On Karpathos, placed the feta, olives and a small to go to Greek school?” Turkey and substitute vegetarian ful, not only for their many materi- ruled the roost. Eventually the Pa- the various types of baklava most platter of Karpathian baklava at the With that, the adults held their lasagna (with tofu cheese) for pas- al blessings, but for the simple plea- pou gave in. After all, his son had people are used to are referred to as end of the table furthest away from tongues and soon the evening took tichio (the Greek lasagna) and the sure of being together – no matter brought him and his wife to Ameri- xeniko baklava (foreign baklava). where the Papa was sitting. But he on a festive air. matter was quickly settled – except what’s on the table.

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YIASOU ESTIATORIO ΕΥΧΟΜΑΣΤΕ ΣΕ ΟΛΟΥΣ FINE GREEK CUISINE HAPPY THANKSGIVING 2003 Emmons Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11235 ∆ËÏ.: (718) 332-6064 ...µε γλυκά από το Artopolis At Sheepshead Bay, enjoy your lunch or dinner with views of the water and fishing boats Πρώτο στη γεύση, την ποιότητα τη φρεσκάδα και τη διακόσµηση Eating Fish is Good for Your Health για κάθε περίπτωση Choose from the large Καταϊφι, µπακλαβά selection on our menus κουραµπιέδες Fresh seafood, lamb chops, steaks. µελοµακάρονα All types of fish on the grill porkys, lavrakia, synagrides κουλουράκια Our specials mparmpounia, shrimps γλυκά κουταλιού, cakes fish fillets, black sea bass. τούρτες για γάµουs AGORA PLAZA Swordfish fillet 23-18 31ST STREET αρραβώνες Shrimp over rice ASTORIA, NEW YORK ñ Choose from the large βαπτίσεις Linguini with shrimp OUR HEALTHY selection of Greek wines Τηλ.: 718-728-8484 Cold and hot appetizers PROPOSAL ñ Full bar Showers, Weddings Φαξ: 718-728-0066 All types of salads ñ Flawless service Sweet Sixteen, Anniversaries, etc. www.artopolis.net EAT ñ Open daily for and Greek pastries lunch & dinner All baking done on premises e-mail:[email protected] FRESH FISH Zagat Extraordinary Αward ∆ΩΡΕΑΝ ΠΑΡΚΙΝΓΚ The room is available for your special and social events

a b 2004 to 2010 Y o u w i l l b e i m p r e s s e d . B r i n g y o u r f r i e n d s THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 21, 2009 Greek Food & Wine 2009 17 Enhancing the Mind, Body, Soul (and Tabletop) with the Finest Red and White Greek Wines

By Eleni Kostopoulos pairings, enhancing any special Northern Greece would work well try’s finest reds. The complex nose The National Herald Staff Writer holiday feast. Stin Ygeia! too. You should avoid really fruity, is defined by animal, plum and high alcohol and tannic reds-they cedar notes, while the firm tannins ince the seventh century B.C., THIS THANKSGIVING mask the great flavors of tradition- give the palate structure; Domaine wine has played an important Andrea Englisis DWS, VP of al Thanksgiving dishes.” Mercouri/2005/Vin de pays Des Srole in Greek culture; as a so- Athenee Importers in Hempstead, According to “WineWise: Your Letrino. Made from a combination cial catalyst, a party-promoter and NY, recommended to The National Complete Guide to Understanding, of northern Italian grape Refosco a thought-provoker. Greeks were Herald pairing a rose wine with Selecting, and Enjoying Wine” by and native Greek Mavrodaphne, the first to establish organized turkey this Thanksgiving. Steven Kolpan, Brian H. Smith and this wine impresses with its con- vineyard strategies as well as fer- “Rose has the right acidity, fruit Michael A. Weiss of the Culinary In- centration and complexity. It is full- mentation methods, concepts later and tannin to pair well with all of stitute of America, Greek table bodied and dense, with flavors of adopted by the Romans. Wine was the sides as well as the main event,” wines may be labeled in a variety of sweet spice, vanilla, licorice and even essential to Greece’s religious Englisis said. “I would recommend ways. As a consumer, understand- dark cherry; Gaia Notions Agiorgi- ceremonies. Today, Greece has the GAI’A 14-18, Pavlidis Thema ing different labels can aid in shop- tiko/2008/Nemea. This is the been making strides in the U.S. Rose or the Spiropoulos Meliasto. ping more effectively. straightforward, entry-level red wine markets, with good to great If rose is not your thing, a high acid The authors said these labeling from one of Greece’s finest produc- quality rankings and relatively in- white like Assyrtiko from Santorini variations include: “By grape ers. An earthy nose gives way to an- expensive price tags. Knowing (GAI’A Thalassitis or Argyros San- name, such as Moschofiler (Euro- imal, blackberry and dark cherry more about the brew can help you torini) or a Sauvignon Blanc pean law stipulates that the wine flavors on the palate; Ktima to choose the perfect food-wine (Pavlidis Thema White) from must contain at least 85 percent of Pavlidis Thema/2005/Drama. This the grape mentioned; by place blend of 40 percent Syrah and 60 name, such as Nemea (a dry red) or percent Agiorgitiko delights with Santorini (a dry white); by grape its Bordeaux-like aromas of pencil and place, such as Muscat of Samos lead, earth and dark fruit. Ripe tan- (a sweet white); by fantasy or pro- nins frame ripe black currant fla- priety name, such as Miden Agan or vors.” Fresco (both are dry reds).” Among some of Giglio’s choices for Greek Whites are: “Argyos Es- VIN DE VALUE tate Argyros/2007/Santorini. This Whether you have a set budget uniquely modern rendition of the for your holiday festivities, or Greek Assyrtiko grape is pleasingly you’re willing to invest a little more oaky without being too heavy or on your flavor-enhancing bottle of buttery. The ripe, weighty palate of- wine, Koplan, Smith and Weiss fers flavors of citrus, herb and bitter note there are indeed various qual- almond and features a long, rich itative levels that should be taken finish; Domaine Spiropou- into account when purchasing. los/2008/Mantinia. Spiropoulos From least to highest quality are: was established in 1870 and has Apollo's horses: in a splendid dawn ascending “Oenos epitrapezios, or table been framed organically since the Breathe their flames and another night is ending wines. These may have just a brand early 1990s. Made from the Praised be the sun ripening the grapes with his light name or traditional wine such as Moschofilero grape, which bears For the grapes yield wine putting our pains to flight Retsina; Vins de pays, a French similarities to Gewurztraminer, this term for country wines (also known standout white is a phenomenal Oh you who light the silver moon every night locally as topikos inos). value. Dry and crisp, it shows in- You whose grace grants desire, with me don't fight Looser rules for using both na- tense flavors of citrus rind, lemon Please, listen to my innocent and humble wish tive and international grape vari- blossom and peach; Ktima Tselepos Turn the oceans into wine and make me a fish eties exist at this level; The highest Melissopetra Gewurztramin- echelon in Geek wines is the appel- er/2008/Vin deoats d’arcardie. Before Old wounds have adequate time to clear lation of origin wines, modeled on (500 ml) Located in the heart of the New wounds in the tormented soul appear the French AOC and meant to Peloponnese, Ktima Tsepelos was because nature like a doctor somehow sly maintain authenticity and tradi- one of the fist Greek wineries to ex- Wants you her medicine in big wine bottles to buy tional ‘recipes’ of grape content for periment with Gewurztraminer. the wines.” Classic aromas of lychee, white The grapes sweet blood is life-giving flowers and ripe honeydew are fol- When inside you, you become forgiving WINES OF 2010 lowed by zesty flavors of melon and I have the greatest time in the wine's embrace Anthony Giglio, author of the juicy peach in this dry, well-bal- Because then I adore the whole human race Food & Wine’s Wine Guide 2010, anced wine; picked the best Greek wines for the Lyrarakis Cuvee Grande As our dreams fly through time space and air coming year. Some Greek Reds, Colline/2008/Heraklion. This fam- Sometimes they touch success, sometimes despair mentioned in his recent book in- ily-owned winery has been in busi- Too often though they fly after red wine supplies clude: “Argyros ness since 1968. Muscat and Sauvi- That make one live immortal before one dies Atlantis/2006/Santorini. This San- gnon Blanc are joined by the ob- torini red is made with the Mande- scure Cretan variety Vilana in this The blasphemer's tongue and lips I wish them dry forever laria grape. Robust flavors of cassis refreshing blend, which displays a If they say I found another friend besides the jug ever! liquor are upheld by fine –grained grapy nose with whiffs of citrus And if someone someday says I betrayed wine tannins; Boutari Grande Re- rind and mango and a crisp, medi- I'd like to see his body torn by dogs and swine digital-images.net serve/2003/Naoussa. Batouri ages um-long finish.” Drinking bowls, like the one seen here, were used to serve Greek this wine for at least four years in For the complete list of the best This is an excerpt from the series, The Rubaiyat of Melissinos, by wine. The most common style of wine in Ancient Greece was sweet both Oakland bottle before release, wines of 2010, see “Giglio’s Wine Athenian poet and sandal-maker Stavros Melissinos. and very aromatic, though dryer wines were also prevalent. and the result is one of the coun- Guide 2010.”

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yprus is a country steeped in the export sales of Cypriot indige- roWines Managing Director. pean vineyards never reached history and tradition, a legacy nous varietals in North America. The luncheon is to raise aware- Cyprus. Therefore, Cypriot wines Cthat includes the country’s Today’s press event at Anthos, chef ness of Cypriot wines as renowned are European Vitis Vinifera self- wines. With fifteen indigenous Michael Psilakis and restaurateur chef Michael Psilakis serves pristine sown plants retaining their classic grape varieties, Cyprus was one of Donatella Arpaia’s acclaimed Mod- dishes paired with indigenous wine organoleptic characteristics and the first countries to produce wine. ern Greek restaurant, is an impor- varietals selected by guest speaker potential for long life. Today, winemaking is still a central tant component of the EuroWines and wine expert, Dr. George The most widely cultivated of aspect of Cypriot life, making it the campaign which includes initia- Soleas. Here the virtues of Cypriot these indigenous varieties are the highest per capita exporter in the tives such as nationwide advertis- wine and food will meet as the Xynisteri, Marthefitko, Mavro, and world. Although a small country in ing, participation in selected trade bright flavors of the wine are en- Opthalmo. The Xynisteri represents comparison to other wine export- shows, seminars, and over 200 in- hanced by this award-winning Cyprus’ white grape variety. It pro- ing nations, the Cypriot indigenous store tastings in key metropolitan chef’s talent for Mediterranean cui- duces a light colored white wine varietals possess their own alluring markets including Los Angeles, sine. Psilakis’ depth and knowledge with low alcohol levels and low to quality and taste. Therefore, it is New York, and Boston. of the cuisine along with Dr. Soleas’ medium acidity creating a light the goal of the newly formed “The goal of the EuroWines wine selection and accompanying tasting, crisp white wine. The ma- Cyprus Wine Association to pro- campaign is to assist our U.S. wine lecture will prove most enlighten- jority of Cypriot whites are made mote Cyprus’ role in the interna- industry partners in increasing ing and palatable. from Xynisteri. The unique to tional wine milieu. awareness and knowledge of Cypri- The Association is comprised of Cyprus black grape Mavro makes The Cyprus Wine Association is ot wines among the American con- the four main Cypriot wineries: up the bulk of red wines whilst the a campaign designed to promote sumer,” states Mr. Droushiotis, Eu- ETKO, KEO, LOEL, and SODAP, more pungent and higher acidity which represent 86% of Cypriot varietals of the Maratheftiko and wine exports worldwide. All four Opthalmo have been rediscovered wineries each carry their own Com- and encouraged to create improved mandaria dessert wine. The legend and interesting reds. The Marthe- ABOVE: Cyprus Wine Regions. of Commandaria dates back as late fitko is particularly enticing to RIGHT: Traditional wine-making as 1000 B.C. and was later intro- winemakers. Densely concentrated in Cyprus. duced to Europe by the Crusaders. throughout the mountain regions It is the world’s oldest appellation of Paphos and Pitsilia, it is consid- wine in production with a long his- ered extremely rare and valuable. tory of accolades, from the Greek This grape produces a high quality are eager to invest in it. poet, Homer to King Richard the Li- wine rich both in color and body. Its In many ways, the island of on Heart who once said, “I must re- fruity aroma of cherries and black- Cyprus is unusual. As a country turn to Cyprus if only to taste this berries compliment the country’s with one of the oldest varietals in wine again.” Such testimonials con- terroir further distinguishing its the world and a rich history in tinue into the present with its “Best true Cypriot character. Enchanted winemaking, it is an exciting time Buy - Exceptional” ratings from by the wines Marathefitko pro- to witness its reemergence. We Wine & Spirits Magazine. Wine En- duces and enticed by its growing hope you will walk away with more thusiast rates it as one of the “Top potential, Cypriot wine producers than a taste of Cyprus. 10 Dessert Wines” in the world. And wine expert Jonathan Levine hails its unique flavor, “I love its aromas of dried fruit – apricots and Signature Commandaria Cocktail peaches – and undertones of nuts and honey.” In addition to the legendary By Avra Estiatorio Restaurant Commandaria, Cyprus is home to fifteen indigenous grape varieties GLASS SERVING whose rootstocks have grown • 2 parts Red Dry wine undisturbed for over 150 years. • 1 part Commandaria Perhaps, a stroke of luck or blessing • 1/2 part Triple Sec (optional) from the God of Wine, Dionysus, • Splash of Orange Juice the cursed Philloxera beetle which • Splash of Sprite decimated the majority of Euro- • Chopped Apples & Oranges

PITCHER SERVING • 1 bottle of Cyprus dry red wine, preferably Mavro • 1 1/2 cups Commandaria • 1 cup Sprite or Ginger Ale • 1 splash of Orange Juice Ralis Insurance Agency • 2 shots Triple Sec (optional) • 1 Orange cut into wedges • 1 Apple cut into wedges

Stir ingredients in a pitcher or carafe. Allow fruit All types of Insurance to soak in the mixture between 3 and 8 hours Serve Signature Commandaria Cocktail in an ice-filled glass. Personal Commercial By Tony Abou-Ganim

Auto Buildings INGREDIENTS • 1 oz St. John Commandaria sweet wine Motorcycle Retail Stores • 1 1/2 oz Bourbon Homeowners • 1 oz fresh lemon juice Restaurants • 2 oz apple cider or juice Renters Wholesalers • 1 oz ginger syrup* Add Commandaria Wine, bourbon, lemon juice, Umbrella Contractors apple juice, and syrup to a mixing glass of a Boston Insurance Insurance shaker set. Shake with ice until well blended. Strain Life Offices into an ice-filled Collins glass and garnish with a fan of apples. Call or stop by for a free quote *HOMEMADE GINGER SYRUP DIRECTIONS • 2 cups sugar a b • 2 cups water • 1 cup fresh ginger, peeled and cubed Anthony D. Ralis - Agent Bring water and ginger to a boil. Dissolve sugar and return to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer for 30 32-17 Broadway, Astoria, New York 11106 minutes. Allow to cool and then strain liquid to re- move ginger. Tel.: (718) 274-0700 Fax: (718) 274-7325

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a b Tel.: (718) 886-4140 • Fax: (718) 463-5037 THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 21, 2009 Greek Food & Wine 2009 19 Your Guide to Greek Cheeses

Continued from page 4 ewe’s or goat’s milk are also used. It Peloponissos, Ionian islands, is ripened for at least 3 months. The Aegean island and Crete island. mean composition of Manouri is, mean composition of Metsovone is, There are two types of Mizithra; moisture: 51.9 percent, fat: 36.7 moisture: 41.8 percent, fat: 25.9 Fresh Mizithra which is unsalted or percent, proteins: 10.9 percent, percent, protein: 26.8 percent, salt: slightly salted and consumed a few salt: 0.8 percent and a pH of 5.9. 2.8 percent and a pH of 5.5. hours or days after its manufacture METSOVONE MIZITHRA and Dried Mizithra which is salted, Metsovone is traditional Greek Mizithra is a traditional Greek dried and consumed as grated cheese with Controlled Denomina- whey cheese with Controlled De- cheese. tion of Origin (DOC). It is a hard nomination of Origin (DOC). It has Fresh Mizithra contains up to 70 smoked cheese, of “pasta filata” been manufactured in Greece for percent moisture and at least 50 type, which is produced in the re- thousands of years and is consid- percent fat in dry matter, while gions of Metsovo (Epirus) from ered the ancestor of all Greek whey dried Mizithra contains 40 percent where the name derives. cheeses. Mizithra is manufactured and 50 percent, respectively. Metsovone is considered as an ex- from whey derived from ewe’s, cellent quality table cheese. It is goats’ or cows’ milk or mixtures of The above article is from manufactured from cow’s milk but milks in the regions of Macedonia, Greece.org, “From the Greek mixtures with small quantities of Thrace, Thessalia, Sterea Hellas, Cheese Page.” 20 Greek Food & Wine 2009 THE NATIONAL HERALD, NOVEMBER 21, 2009

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