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MORETON BAY SETTLEMENT or before Separation

TOGETHER WITH A Brief Account of the Rise of the Colonies of Australasia Price 4/6 nett

WATSON , FERGUSON & CO. LTD. Pub!itbtrs 1925 COPYRIGHT

PRINTED IN AVfTRALIA CAPTAIN , R.N. (1728.1779) Moreton Say Settlement or Queensland before Separation 1770-1859

TOGETHER WITH A Brief Account of the Rise of the Colonies of Australasia

By W. W. CRAIG, M.A.

WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS

WATSON, FERGUSON & CO. LIMITED STANLEY STREET , BRISBANE QUEENSLAND 1925 This is a blank page

INTRODUCTION HE chief aim of the present narrative is to set forth, as con- cisely as possible, the leading incidents occurring in early T times in . Such a period would include the time intervening between Cook's advent on the north-eastern coast of in 1770 and the separation of Moreton Bay from in 1859. But as the count ry, of which the Bri sbane settlement formed the centre , was, during the above period, only an outlying part of the mother colony, it follows that it becomes a necessity to take into consideration the important events which took place, first at , and then at various points along the coast count ry of Eastern Australia . It is only by following this course that any sketch of Moreton Bay histo ry can find its proper setting and may ri ghtly be understood. Mainly for this reason, bri ef accounts have been given, in the first place , of the ri se and development of New South Wales as a whole, and then of each of the other Australian colonies which became settled within the fifty years following the date of Governor Phil lip's arrival in . Though these sketches are only in outline, they may nevertheless serve, to a certain extent , in supply- ing a general knowledge of what was going on elsewhere in Aus- tralia whilst the development of a settled community was in progress at Moreton Bay. The present method of arrangement may also be found useful in cases where full accounts of the several Australian colonies are not readily available for the enquirer. It is matter for remark that Australian histories of any kind do not appear to be given the most prominent place in Australian public or private libraries, not to speak of Australian schools-at least, such has not been the case in the past. As regards authorities consulted and made use of by the writer- most of these have been mentioned by name in the course of the narrative. A fairly wide field of reference and research has been traversed in the process of tracing out the incidents of history, and a reader will quickly understand, on his own account, that first-hand descriptions of important events have been given as much as possible. Quotations have been largely taken from the several journals of the first explorers and travellers, so that the only question of accuracy involved in such cases is whether the explorer himself was right or wrong in what he wrote. He at least wrote about things which he saw, or about actions which he did, at given places and times. References to the earliest authentic records of events round Australia have been gathered chiefly from Professor Wood's "Dis- covery of Australia," a comprehensive and fascinating record, not only of the work of explorers but of the explorers themselves, as far as they can be now known. Acknowledgment has to be made of the works of other writers consulted-Thomas Dunbabin's "Making of Australasia" being, after Professor Wood's work, one of the first importance in throw- ing light on many of the dark places of early history. Jose's "History of Australasia"-probably one of the most widely known and used for many years past-has been consulted on points of general history, whilst as to writers whose works deal more particularly with north-eastern Australia and Moreton Bay, the pearls of authentic records of events have been sought after with diligence. Names of authors of local histories , it is perhaps scarcely neces- sary to record in detail. Among the works made use of are journals written by the explorers themselves; Coote's "History of Queens- land"; Dr. Lang's Works; J. J. Knight's "In Early Days"; whilst it goes without saying that Stuart Russell's "Genesis of Queensland" has formed one of the chief sources of information on early history. As regards Australian exploration, again, no attempt has been made to give any full account of such work anywhere but within the borders of the present State of Queensland. There is the well known and excellent work of C. R. Long-the "History of Aus- tralian Exploration"-which covers a wide field of information on the subject generally. The account of Burnett's explorations north- wards has been taken, by permission of the Trustees, from his own journal in the Mitchell Library, as has been also the copy of the official letter in which the river he explored is named after him. The extensive work of the Rev. Tenison-Woods-the History of the Discovery and Exploration of Australia-has been made use of in connection chiefly with the journeys of the later Moreton Bay explorers. One fact soon becomes evident to any student of general historical work published in connection with Australian events. That is the very common failure of any but local writers to give anything approaching a complete account of incidents occurring in the north-east of Australia during the rise and early progress of Moreton Bay settlement. Apparently, until within comparatively recent times, there has been an almost unconscious tendency among writers in the south to regard Queensland still as only an off-shoot from New South Wales, and its early "provincial" history as of little interest. At least from a Queenslander's point of view, the story of the development of the youngest of the Australian States has not been sufficiently prominent even in those works which are regarded as the principal authorities on Australian history. This may not appear so unnatural when we remember that the northern State is younger in years than many of its residents, who are still considerably less than seventy years of age. But now that the "Moreton Bay Settlement" has grown to a great State with enormous possibilities, it may claim to have passed the age of infancy and to have reached the time when it may justly become, in an historical sense, "conscious of itself." There are at present few literary aids to help toward that end. Most works on the subject-written in the past-are now out of print and, in some ways, also out-of-date. Probably few but students of history look into them, and for the general reading public they are frequently not available. Though in the present treatise there is no claim made that this "long felt want" has been adequately supplied, there is, at all events, an attempt made toward reaching that end. The general ignorance as to past events in our State, especially in its first stages of growth as a settlement, is almost as remarkable as the apparently common want of realisation of its enormous possibilities in the way of future development. A part of the subject-matter of this work has already appeared in the columns of the "Daily Mail" and-somewhat more fully-in the "Brisbane Centenary Official Historical Souvenir." Such sections, however, have been to a large extent revised and modified in the mode of presentation. The account of Oxley's second expedition, in which he further explored the course of the , is taken from his journal. This document was first made public by the late W. H. Traill, to whom the original had been presented by Mr. Fitzgerald, Deputy Surveyor-General at the time. The originals of some of the illustrative portraits here shown are in the custody of the Mitchell Library authorities in Sydney. The chart of early Moreton Bay territory, drawn by Allan Cunningham in 1829, which is reproduced in this volume for the first time, has been made available for use through the kind per- mission of the Surveyor-General of Queensland. In conclusion, I wish to acknowledge valuable suggestions as to the scope of the story and its arrangement, made by Mr. E. Hurworth, Editor of School Literature, Department of Public Instruction, Brisbane. Mr. Hurworth, in the present case, has given much encouragement by his sympathetic attitude towards the under- taking and carrying out of the work. W. W. CRAIG. Brisbane, July, 1925. This is a blank page

CONTENTS

Part I. EARLY AUSTRALIAN DISCOVERIES AND THE FOUNDING AND GROWTH OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES. CHAPTER I. No Reliable Accounts of Discoveries round Australian Coasts until Beginning of Seventeenth Century-Early Voyages in the East-Portuguese first in these Seas--Dutch and Spanish Explorers Foremost in Navigating Eastern Waters-Various Proofs of This-Voyage of de Quiros-Torres, in 1606, Sails through the Strait named after Him- Explorations of the Dutch- Discovery of West Coast of Australia-Tasman's Voyage in 1642-His Discovery of Van Diemen's Land-Dampier on the West Coast-Cook's Voyage up the East Coast-He Proves the Existence of Torres Strait. CHAPTER II. First Settlement at Port Jackson-Governor Philip's Fleet-Visit of la Perouse -Early Difficulties of the Colony-After Philip's Resignation, in 1792, Major Grose and Captain Paterson Control Affairs until 1795-The during this Period Gains great Power-Governor Hunter takes Office in 1795-Progress of the Settlement-The Cow Pastures- Explorations of Bass and Flinders-Van Diemen's Land proved to be an -Naming of Bass's Strait-Governor King's Rule (1800-1806)- King and the Rum Traffic-Visit of Baudin to Sydney-King Pounds Settle- ment in Van Diemen's Land-Flinders' Voyage in the "Investigator" in 1802-His further Experiences in the "Cumberland"-His Imprisonment at Mauritius-Governor Bligh (1806.1809)-His Difficulties with the New South Wales Corps-His Efforts to Control Rum Traffic and to Check Trade Abuses-His Character. CHAPTER III. Governor Macquarie (1809.1821)-Disbanding of New South Wales Corps- Better Social Conditions-Further Discoveries and Extension of Settlement- His Zeal for Building and Roadmaking-His Treatment of Convicts-The -His Unpopularity with Free Settlers-Governor Brisbane (1821- 1825)-His Character and Policy-Settlement Northwards and Founding of Brisbane Town-Governor Darling (1826.1831)-Demand for Establishment of Free Institutions-Increasing Power of the "Free" Element in the Colony- Explorations of Sturt and Cunningham-Darling Favours the Military Party-Characters of Brisbane and Darling Contrasted-Governor Bourke (1831.1837)-Rapid Extension of Exploration-Expeditions of Sturt, Hume, and Mitchell-Alterations of Land Laws-Development of Efforts for Immigration - Religious Equality-Opening of a New Era- Governor Gipps (1838-1846)-His Character-His Policy Makes Him Unpopular - Beginnings of Representative Government-Gipps in Moreton Bay-Governor Fitzroy (1846. 1855 )-- Contrast of His Character with that of Gipps-Attempts to Re-introduce Transportation-Gewernor Denison 1855.1860)-His Opposition to "Separation " and the Cutting Off of the Country in the North from New South Wales-His Efforts to Hinder the Movement are Useless-Queensland Proclaimed a Separate Colony. Part H.

MORETON BAY SETTLEMENT or QUEENSLAND BEFORE SEPARATION.

CHAPTER IV. Cook's Voyage in the "" in 1770-The Explorer leaves and Sails Westward-Discovers East Coast of Australia-Enters and names -Cook's journal describing Moreton Bay-Flinders' Explorations there; Disappointing Result. CHAPTER V. Fresh Exploration in Moreton Bay by Oxley more than Twenty Years later- Discovery of the Brisbane River-Oxley 's Diary and His Further Dis- coveries-Return to Sydney-Founding of Penal Settlement at Moreton Bay-Oxley's Further Exploration of the River-Founding of Brisbane- Captains Miller and Bishop, First Commandants-Visit of Governor Brisbane to Moreton Bay-Events Elsewhere in Australia, contemporary with the Period of the Founding of Brisbane-Exploring Work Southward as far as the Murrumbidgee River and Monaro Plains in 1823-Explorations of Hume and Hovell towards Hobson 's Bay in 1824-Upper Murray Crossed- Progress in Van Diemen's Land-Practical Self•Government Conferred on that Colony in 1825. CHAPTER VI. Rule of Commandant Logan-Severity of Discipline-Formation of the Penal Settlement-Queen Street in 1825.30-Logan's Exploring Work-Major Lockyer's Boat Excursion in 1825-Logan 's Second Exploring Journey Southward-His Character. CHAPTER VII. Allan Cunningham in Moreton Bay-Discovery of -Cunningham's Work and Character-The Importance of His Discoveries-Logan's Suc- cessor: Commandant Clunie-Visit of Backhouse and Walker to Brisbane-The Treadmill- and Commandant Cotton: Their Explorations at -Petrie's Pine and the Bunya Country.

CHAPTER VIII. Stuart Russell and Petrie at Wide Bay-Settlement begins Northward- German Mission to the Aborigines at -Last Days of Con- victism-the Work of Convicts-Official Ideas regarding Moreton Bay- Progress of Settlement there-The Question of a Capital-Hopes of Cleve- land-Sir in Town Planning-Convicts Withdrawn-Officials' Salaries.

CHAPTER IX. Attempts to Reintroduce Penal System in Modified Form-"Free" Immigra- tion and "Separation"-First Land Sale in Brisbane-a Bush Township- Currency Difficulties-Period of Business Depression-Question of Capital Site-The Moral Aspect-Steamer Services-Rapid Extension of Settlement after 1840-Definition of Term: Moreton Bay-Land Settlement-Occu aticn of Darling Downs-Leslie, Hodgson, &c.-Extended Settlement begins Across Range Eastward-The M'Connels, Bigges, MacKenzies, Balfours, &c.-Settlement in Logan District-Stations of Tamrookum, Bromelton, Tabragalba, Nindooinbah, Telemon taken up-Importance of Logan's Work in South-east. CHAPTER X. The Difficulties and Dangers of Early Settlers-Moreton Bay Explorers- Leichhardt: His journey to Port Essington in 1844.45-His Second Journey- His Last Expedition, when He sent Letters from the Cogoon, in 1848- Hely's Attempt to Find Traces of Leichhardt-the L-marked Trees- Explorations of Sir Thomas Mitchell-His Discovery of the River (Barcoo)-His Belief that this River flowed into Carpentaria Gulf.

CHAPTER XI. The Labour Problem in Moreton Bay-Dr. Lang's Visit to that Place in 1845-Discussions on Free Settlement versus Re-introduction of Transporta- tion-Governor Gipps' Land Legislation-His Departure from New South Wales-Governor Fitzroy Succeeds Him-First Shipload of Emigrants-The "Artemisia" is Followed by the "Fortitude," the "Chasely," and the "Lima"- Clash between Dr. Lang and the Government Authorities-New Class of Convicts Introduced-Rumours of "Separation"-Timely Arrival of Immigrants-Discovery of Gold in Australia-Port Curtis Settlement- Colonel Barney's Experiences There-A Government Resident at Gladstone- Moreton Bay "Courier" Established.

CHAPTER XII. The Exploring Journey of E. B. Kennedy Westward-He Finds the Victoria (Barcoo) Flowing South-west in its Lower Course-Various Names given to this River-Kennedy's Second Expedition to Port Albany and Cape York Neighbourhood-Its Disastrous Issue-The Explorations of Burnett and the Discovery of the River named after him-Settlement advances Northward from the Brisbane River-The Question of the Choice of a Capital- Cleveland's Disappointed Hopes-Extent of Population in 1846-Rise of Ipswich. CHAPTER XIII. Noted Wrecks of Early Days-Wreck of the "Stirling Castle"-Escaped Convicts among the Blacks-Wreck of the "Sovereign"-Advance of Settle, ment Westward-Outback Condition in 1850-Gregory's journey Westward in 1858-Agitation for Separation Continues-Governor Denison Opposes it-Queensland Made a Separate Colony in 1859.

CHAPTER XIV. The Aborigines of Moreton Bay-Conflicting Opinions regarding Their Character-Cannibalism regarded as an Obligation-Their Belief in Re- incarnation.

Part III. CHAPTER XV. -FIRST KNOWN AS VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. First Settlement Southward-Its Necessity owing to Danger of French Occupation-French Explorers There-D'Entrecasteaux and Baudin-Lieut. Bowen Forms Settlement at the Derwent-Collins Founds Town of - Launceston Outpost put under Command of Hobart Commandant-Davey Succeeds Collins-His Character and Policy-Sorell's Successful Reign- Governor Arthur and Strict Penal Rule--"Round Up" of the Blacks-The Attempt a Failure-Van Diemen's Land becomes Independent of New South Wales-Sir -His Change of Policy-It is Unsuccessful-His Personal Character-Sir Eardley Wilmot- His Disagree- ments with the Free Settlers-Governor Denison-Transportation of Criminals to Eastern Australia Ceases-Change of Name to Tasmania. CHAPTER XVI. THE or . Governor Darling, in 1826, sends Expedition to Form a Settlement at King George's Sound-Captain Sterling's Plan for Founding a Colony on the Swan River-First Attempts at Settlement a Failure-Later Growth and Progress-Captain Grey's Explorations on the West Coast-Western Australia becomes a Convict Colony after 1840-Remains in that State many Years Longer than the Eastern States-Full Self-Government not Granted it until 1890. CHAPTER XVII. PORT PHILLIP SETTLEMENT or THE RISE OF VICTORIA. First Settlement of Port Phillip due to Private Enterprise-Delay in Colonising there-Settlement begins from Van Diemen's Land-The Hentys at Portland Bay-John Batman-John Pascoe Fawkner-Origin of Town of -Spread of Settlement-Discovery of Gold-The Eureka Stockade-Granting of Self-Government-"Port Phillip" becomes "Victoria."

CHAPTER XVIII. . Colony Founded by a Company under a Charter-The Elaborate Scheme of Edward Gibbon Wakefield--His Desire to Reproduce English Conditions in Australia-South Australian Association-First Landing at Kangaroo Island- Settlement Changed to Site of Adelaide-Captain Hindmarsh and Mr. Fisher-Divided Control-Governor Gawler Succeeds, with Full Powers of Government-Mistaken Policy adopted by Governor and Settlers-Colony Virtually Bankrupt in 1841-Work of Exploration-Eyre's journey from Adelaide to Albany-Sturt's Explorations-His journey from Adelaide Northwards in 1844--Governor Grey's Term of Rule-His New Methods- Colony Revives-Discovery of Copper-Development of Pastoral and Agri- cultural Industries-Grey Transferred to New Zealand-Colonel Robe assumes Office-His Disputes with the Mining Community-Granting of Self-Government to South Australia.

Among the illustrations, local and personal, copies of charts, which have special interest for students of history, have been-by permission-reproduced. Some of these are: Harris's Map of 1744, showing New Guinea joined to Australia; Map of 1798, showing Tasmania joined to Australia; Original Chart of Morteton Bay in 1829, as drawn by Allan Cunningham. MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS

Captain Cook (1728-78) Harris's Map-1744 -showing New Guinea joined to Australia (from Prof. Wood's "Discovery of Australia"). Map showing Van Diemen 's Land joined to Australia (from C. R. Long's "Stories of Australian Exploration"). Cook's Chart of Moreton Bay Coastline. The " Endeavour" passing . Captain (1774.1814). Flinders' Chart of Moreton Bay. Lieut. (1781.1828). Oxley's Chart of Moreton Bay. Cunningham's Map of Moreton Bay Territory in 1829 (from the Original Drawing in the Custody of the Surveyor-General of Queensland). p.go Andrew Petrie. p,5!+ Copy of Original Land. Order issued by Dr. Lang. Brisbane in 1852, from Kangaroo Point Ferry. Brisbane, from the same point, at the present day. Glass House Mountain. This is a blank page

EARLY AUSTRALIAN DISCOVERIES AND THE FOUNDING OF THE COLONY OF NEW SOUTH WALES.

CHAPTER I.

THEREregarded is no as quite story reliable of early until Australian we reach Discovery the beginning which can of the be seventeenth century. Vague rumours, it is true, had before this time spread over Europe, and many stories of travel had been related, whilst the French claim to have had explorers of their nation, whose reports almost certainly refer to parts of the Aus- tralian shore. But the accounts given were generally confused and indefinite, and not of much value practically, even though they may have had, in many instances, some elements of truth.

Early Voyages in the East. The Portuguese were the first European navigators to reach the waters of the north-eastern Indian , but their efforts to advance further to the East were not so successful as those of their later Dutch rivals, and they afterwards ceased to figure prominently as explorers in Eastern seas. De Quiros, we know, was Portuguese, but he was in the service of the King of Spain, at the time when Portugal was under Spanish rule.

Dutch and Spanish Explorers. It was the Spanish and Dutch, who were foremost in navi- gating Australian seas. The former sailed westward from South America, whilst the latter made voyages of exploration round their East Indian possessions, and Batavia their capital. A great part of the Australian coast was well within this range. We are told that, over sixty years ago, the remains of a wrecked vessel, supposed with good reason to be Spanish, were found by the shore of Facing Island, near Gladstone on the east coast of Australia. From its appearance, it had evidently been driven ashore there long before Cook's time. Again, along Australia's western coast line, the early presence of the Dutch is still commemorated in the many places called after their Dutch discoverers. It might in truth be said that 1 the geographical names now found along the west and south west coasts, throw much light on the country's early history, and give the key to an understanding of the progress of discovery there. In 1606, de Quiros commanded a Spanish expedition which discovered new in the western Pacific. This party of voy- agers reached the most northerly island of the New Hebrides group, and anchored in the bay off its northern shore. They named the place St. Philip and St. James Bay. The island itself de Quiros called Espiritu Santo, or the Island of the Holy Spirit. The name appears somewhat unsuitable in view of the ferocious character of its savage inhabitants, but the Spanish commander, who was a fervently religious man, had doubtless the future in his mind, rather than the present. Any attempt at settlement in these regions failed, nor were the members of the party, generally, anxious to establish a residence there. Presently either owing to stormy weather conditions, or on account of the mutinous threats of his own men-which is more probable-de Quiros suddenly weighed anchor, and sailed off towards the west coast of America. Thus basely he deserted his fellow voyager, the captain of the second vessel , whose name Luis Vaez de Torres was to become so famous in later days. Torres Sails through the Strait, afterwards named after Him. When Torres learned that his superior in command had sailed off without giving any sign, he did not attempt to follow in the direction in which de Quiros was likely to have gone, but instead of turning eastward, he sailed first to the south-west. Seeing, however, in that direction no sign of land, he turned to the north-west, and presently at ill deg. latitude, as he writes-"We fell in with the beginning of New Guinea." From this point he "coasted along to the westward on the south side," evidently determined to make his way homeward, if possible, off New Guinea's southern coast. Torres has left little account of this part of his voyage, and he seems scarcely to have realised that the sea through which he sailed here actually formed a strait. Though he saw land to the south, as he passed through, he supposed it to be the northern edge of another large island , or island group, such as is found so commonly in the western Pacific . It was in this way it hap- pened, that de Quiros had seen the coast line of an island farther east and had believed that its shores formed the north- eastern borders of a great southern Continent-then by scientific men generally supposed to exist-while Torres, on the other hand, mistook for an island the country whose coast line was in reality that of Northern Australia. Owing to a variety of causes the actual truth about the strait, named from Torrres, was not generally known until Cook' s time .' But the Dutch also, in 1606, had sent out eastward from Bantam in the East Indies, the "Duyfhen" to explore the coast of New Guinea. Keeping to the south, however, 2 her captain came upon the western shore of - land which he believed to be an extension of the New Guinea coast southwards. The Dutch, like the rest of the world then, long remained in ignorance of the strait's existence.

The Dutch in the Gulf of Carpenta ria. So it came to pass that the "Duyfhen" was now sailing in the waters of the Great Northern Gulf, and her captain continued his voyage downward as far as the cape, which was subsequently named by him Keer Weer, or Turn Again. Though the date of the first discovery of the Australian coast by the leader of one of these two expeditions is not quite certain, Flinders-from considera- tion of facts actually known-concluded that the Dutch commander had sighted the western shore of Cape York Peninsula a few months before Torres sailed past Cape York. But a more important fact is, that during the forty years following the period of the events just mentioned, the Dutch were by far the most energetic in prosecuting the work of exploration along the Australian shores.

Exploration by the Dutch westward. The early discoveries made by the Dutch on the shores of Western Australia were, to a certain extent, a matter of chance. Those discoveries really were the result of attempts made by the captains of Dutch vessels to find a more direct route to Java than that which led up the east coast of Africa, and then eastward across the Indian Ocean. Holland had not been many years in possession of her East Indian possessions , when one of her captains sailed his vessel eastward from the Cape, instead of turning directly north past Madagascar. Since the result of this experiment was to shorten the length of the voyage, as Professor Wood points out in the "Discovery of Australia,"-"The change (of route) made the discovery of the west coast inevitable." Discovery of West Coast of Australia. In 1616, about fourteen years after the establishment of the Dutch East India Co's settlement in Java, a Dutch vessel touched land on the coast of Western Australia, at the island still called Dirk Hartog' s Island , from the name of the vessel's captain. Fol- lowing this navigator we find another ship from Holland, the "Zeewulf," touching, in 1618, at a more northerly point of the same coast line. Again, in the following year, Commander de Houtman found land further south, near the latitude of Perth. The name, Houtman's Abrolhos, records this voyage. , farther south still, was discovered in 1622, the present name being taken from the ship "Leeuwin" (lioness ), the members of whose crew were first to view the extreme point of the south-west coast. Further organised attempts at discovery on the west coast were made by the 3 Dutch, influenced not so much by the hope of advantage from these barren inhospitable shores, as urged by the necessity of gaining fuller knowledge of the treacherous reefs and ,, which the wreck of the "Batavia" and Pelsart's fate in 1629, taught them to fear and guard against.

Discove ry of the South Coast. The voyage of the "Gulden Seepaart," in 1627, marked the only visit to the western side of the Australian south coast in early history. Few data are found about the voyage, but it is known that this vessel sailed for a thousand miles past Cape Leeuwin and along the southern coast, as far as Fowler Bay. The name, Nuyts Archi- pelago, recalls this voyage. Pieter Nuyts was in command of the expedition.

The Dutch Neglect of Australian Territory. Whilst the Dutch learned to dread the dangers of the west coast with its rocky islands and sandy shores, it cannot be wondered at that they found little attraction in the lands lying along its coasts. The view of barren country, flat and uninviting, or of immense reaches of perpendicular cliffs rising abruptly on the south coast, 300 or 400 feet from the stormy seas, would not be likely to attract men accustomed to the fertility and luxuriance of the Dutch East Indies. They made a few attempts at developing trade in the region of the south, but it need scarcely be remarked that these ended in disappointment. Lucrative trade, and not geographical knowledge, was the chief aim of the business men of Rotterdam and Amsterdam; but a view of the Australian blacks in various parts of the coast would dispel any hopes in this direction, as far as con- cerned the coast line of the Australian continent. It may be noted here that Tasman, in his celebrated voyage of 1642, set out prepared for trading with the natives of any new countries he might discover. The barrenness of his work in this direction seems to have caused his employers considerable dis- pleasure. His attempt at opening up trade with the New Zealand savages had only resulted in the loss of four of his men. Hence the old name of that part of the coast-Massacre Bay. Tasman himself named it Murderers' Bay.

Tasman 's Voyage. The most important of all the Dutch voyagers was this who was sent from Batavia by van Diemen to prosecute further exploration work in the southern Australian waters. In 1642 his party sailed in the vessels "Heemskerk" and "Zeehaen." Pro- ceeding eastward past Cape Leeuwin and steering a course well southward from the Australian coast, Tasman discovered the western shore of the country which he named Van Diemen's Land, 4 but which to us is known as Tasmania. Naturally, he was unaware of the insular character of that place. Two high peaks inland, but visible from sea, are now named from the vessels in which he sailed. Mt. Heemskirk and Mt. Zeehan at the present day, are found in the heart of the mining country of western Tasmania. Flinders gave these names more than a century and a half after Tasman's time. As Tasman passed round the south coast of the island, his ship sailed into the bay, forming the estuary of the river which we call the Derwent. Owing to the bad weather prevailing at the time, he was unable to anchor there, and sailing out to sea again, he passed round the southern point of Tasman's Peninsula. He anchored for a few days near the northern cape of Forestier's Peninsula, and made some brief explora- tions on the neighbouring shores. Thence he sailed up the east coast, passing and naming , until, off the elevated country where the modern tourist travels over St. Mary's Pass, the explorer turned his course directly eastward and became the dis- coverer of New Zealand. Dampier on the West Coast. Nearly fifty years after Tasman's voyage, William Dampier-- compound of scholar and pirate-landed on the northwest coast of Australia. As far as we know for certain, he was the first English- man to set foot on Australian shores. It is known that an English ship, the "Trial," in 1622, ran on the rocks off the west coast, some- where in the neighbourhood of the islands and the reefs now known as Dampier's Archipelago. As only about one-third of the crew escaped in boats and reached Batavia, it seems certain that the greater number perished where they were wrecked. We are told that they ran on the rocks in the night "without having seen land," so that those left behind must have perished miserably. Nothing was ever heard of them again. But the account of Dam- pier's voyages which he afterwards published, however interesting in itself, was not likely to attract adventurers into those seas. Much of his account, indeed, was regarded more or less as romance by many of his contemporaries, though it is now valued for its clear account of explorers' experiences in very early days, as well as for its scientific interest. Captain Cook's Voyage. Little fresh exploration was carried on round the Australian coast line for seventy years after Dampier's time. The explorations of Bougainville, a few years before Cook's voyage, are among the most important during this period, and these were chiefly carried on among the western island groups of the South Seas. His search for "Terra Australis"--or the great southern continent- led him into explorations among these islands, most of which were already more or less known, and finding himself at length "caught in a huge gulf, bristling with shoals and reefs and ", he was glad 5 to find an escape thence, and sailed away eastward . In 1770, Captain Cook successfully completed the voyage , which at length made the truth known , and discovered Austra lia's secret to the world.

Re-discovery of Torres Strait. It does not appear to be generally understood that one of the important points finally decided by Captain Cook during his cele- brated voyage, was that of the actual existence of the sea passage known to us as Torres Strait. Though Torres had passed by this way in 1606, he was certainly not aware of the importance of the event, or of its true significance. It was, besides, the common practice in those days for the nation, which made any supposedly important discovery, to conceal the knowledge acquired, in order to prevent rival nations from gaining the benefits which might accrue from the circumstances. As the Spanish power in the 17th century had already begun to decline and as that of Holland was increasing rapidly, in and around the East Indies, knowledge on the part of the Dutch of the existence of a strait leading direct into the western Pacific was not a desirable issue, from the Spanish point of view. Hence, it is possible for us to find published, in 1744, a Map giving the sketch of a well known voyage, in which chart New Guinea and Australia (Cape York) are shown as connected by a wide isthmus. Though, as time went on, the belief in the existence of a strait, and some knowledge of the facts, grew and spread, yet the general ignorance was only finally dispelled by Cook more than a century and a-half after Torres' time. The truth was now made known not only to men of science, but to the world at large.

Cook Proves Existence of a Strait. After his successful voyage of discovery up the east coast of our island continent, Cook at length sailed through the strait dividing Cape York Peninsula from southern New Guinea. Of this part of his voyage he writes: "A from the south-west left me no room to doubt but we had got to the westward of Carpentaria, or the northern extremity of , which gave me no small satisfaction, not only because the dangers and fatigues of the voyage were drawing to an end, but being able to prove that New Holland and New Guinea are two separate islands, which until this day hath been a doubtful point with geographers." Thus the question was in 1770, definitely settled by this navigator. Cook had first sighted the coast line of Australia on 15th April, 1770, and it was on the 28th of the same month that his ship, the "Endeavour," had sailed into Botany Bay, where Cook cast anchor and remained for eight days. 6 PART OF MAP IN HARRIS'S "VOYAGES" (Ed Campbell, 1744), SHOWING NEW GUINEA JOINED TO AUSTRALIA. (Reproduced from Prof. Arnold Wood's "Discovery of Australia," by permission of MacMillan & Co., Publishers.) This is a blank page

CHAPTER II. First Settlement at Port Jackson. Seventeen years later, 1787, Captain Phillip set sail from Ports- mouth with a fleet of twelve vessels, having on board 850 convicts, together with more than 250 officers, men and dependents. This squadron was known subsequently as "the ." Phillip and his party reached Botany Bay on 18th January, 1788. This name was given to the place by Cook because of the profusion of plants and flowering shrubs found in its vicinity. But though Phillip within a few days removed his party from Botany Bay to Port Jackson, owing to the superior fitness of the latter position, the name, Botany Bay, for generations afterwards was associated with the community of felons, which settled on Port Jackson's shores. In later days there was little association of ideas between flowering shrubs and this bay with the botanical name.

Port Jackson Explored and Settlement Begun. Some miles up the harbour, which Cook had named Port Jackson, Captain Phillip chose the site of a settlement for the company with him. The spot now forms the centre of the great .

Visit of la Perouse. Just previous to the removal of the fleet to Port Jackson, two French ships, under the command of la Perouse, sailed into Botany Bay. After their departure thence, all trace of this French expedition was lost for forty years, and only after the lapse of that time, it was found that both vessels had been wrecked on a coral reef at the island of Vanikoro, in the New Hebrides.

Difficulties of Settlement. Governor Phillip encountered difficulties of many kinds in his efforts to establish a colony under such new and untried conditions. Few men could have done better than he the work which it was possible to carry out, but it required more than the crude methods within his reach, to accomplish such an undertaking successfully. He proceeded with the necessary work, however, with the utmost energy and zeal, but the burden ultimately proved too much for his strength, and he was compelled to return to England in 1792. Several times during the first years of its existence, famine had stared the colony in the face, and it is said that Governor Phillip, in a period of scarcity, put his private allowance of flour into the common stock and claimed for himself no more favourable treat- ment than any member of the ordinary community. It is in such circumstances that we learn to know the man. As an example of the difficulty of finding anyone competent to do the necessa ry work of a new settlement, we may refer to the 7 story of Phillip's first attempt at growing food supplies for the use of the community. Only one individual could be found out of the whole population who was capable of directing farming opera- tions, and this man, whose name was Dodds, died before the first Governor's departure from the colony. Such a condition of affairs seems almost incredible. Governor Hunter ( 1795-1800). Though Hunter was the next head of the colony with full official authority as Governor, he did not take up his position there for nearly three years after Phillip's departure from New South Wales. Major Grose held the office of Lieutenant-Governor for the two years after 1792, whilst Captain Paterson was at the head of affairs for nearly a year after Grose's term of office ended. Neither of these men seems to have been able to cope with the power of the New South Wales Corps-if, indeed, they ever wished to act contrary to the prevailing influence of that body in the Colony. But the hold upon the control of the rum traffic, and trade generally, which the military party gained in increasing measure during the term of office of Grose and Paterson, no doubt formed one of the great reasons for the difficulty which Governor Hunter and his successors experienced in checking the evil effects of that traffic upon the colony at large. Power of the New South Wales Corps. The dominating position of power ultimately reached by the military party in the settlement became a public evil, which the Governors succeeding Phillip were unable successfully to control. Thus it was that the efforts toward good government and the amelioration of the condition of affairs generally, put forth by Hunter and his successors , were to a large degree rendered vain by persistent and unscrupulous opposition on the part of the men who profited by the evils of the community. In such circumstances it followed, as a matter of course, that Governor Hunter experienced great difficulties, and met with opposition and discouragement in the prosecution of his work. Material Progress of the Colony. The problem of securing food for the colony was now, how- ever, becoming less difficult to solve, and the efforts towards finding a reliable source of supply were becoming more successful. It is fair to state, at this point, that the liberal grants of land made by Grose and Paterson helped to further this result. The Cow Pastures. During Hunter' s rule some Government cattle, wandering away and exploring on their own account, discovered good pasture land about forty miles distant from the settlement . These cattle were, ro<• 4

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(Reproduced from C. R. Long's "Stories of Australian Exploration," by permission of Whitcombe and Tombs, Publishers, Melbourne.) in their turn, discovered some years afterwards by residents of the colony. The herd was then rapidly increasing in numbers and was scattered over an area of 60,000 acres. Hence this district was afterwards known as the Cow Pastures. Agriculture was extending also, and settlers who had taken up land were supplied with convict labour by the central authorities in Sydney. At the conclusion of Hunter's term of office the population of the settlement had increased to nearly 6,000. Governor Hunter encouraged exploration as much as possible, and it was during his time that Bass and Flinders made their famous voyages of discovery round the coast to the south and south-west of Sydney. Exploration an d Discove ries in Hunter 's Time- Bass an d Flinders. Before the close of Hunter's rule in 1800-when his enemies had at length succeeded in effecting his recall-much work had already been done in the way of exploration and in preparing the way for greater discoveries. Among the names of the first and greatest Australian explorers, those of Bass and Flinders stand in the front rank. In 1795 these two officers secured a small boat, eight feet long, the "Tom Thumb," and first explored Botany Bay and rowed up George's River some distance, learning the general features of the district directly south from Sydney. During the next year they ventured farther south to the Illawarra neighbourhood, and landed at a spot in the vicinity of the site of Wollongong. In the stormy waters of this coast they made a perilous voyage, their vessel in the second excursion being hardly larger than that used in the first. Bass reaches Weste rn port. Bass's next undertaking was still more daring. In 1797, he secured a whaleboat and a crew of six men and proceeded south- wards until he rounded the south-eastern point of Australia. He now rowed westward, as far as the opening which he subsequently named Westernport. But here he was obliged to turn back and make for Sydney owing to the shortness of supplies. Of this expedition Flinders wrote afterwards: "A voyage, expressly under- taken for discovery in an open boat, in which 600 miles of coast was explored, has not perhaps its equal in the annals of maritime history." Van Diemen 's Land Proved to be an Island. Again, in the following year, 1798, Bass and Flinders secured the use of the sloop "" in order to prove the existence of the strait, which Bass had already partly traversed. In his voyage to Westernport he had become convinced that there was an opening through to the west along the southern coast of Australia. 10 The voyagers on the "Norfolk" reached the mouth of the Tamar River in safety, and, proceeding westward, passed Cape Grim; then, following the course of the coast line southward, they rounded the south of Van Diemen's land and finally reached and the Derwent. They had thus proved the truth of Bass's theory as to the existence of the strait. After this time, Bass drops out of Australian history and his subsequent fate remains unknown; but Flinders' zeal for exploration was only quickened by the successes which he had won. We find him in the following year, 1799, sailing northward to explore the coast line towards Moreton Bay. His experiences in that voyage are described in the account of the settlement afterwards founded by its shores.

Governor King 's Rule ( 1800 -1806). After Hunter's recall another naval captain, Phillip Gidley King, became Governor of the colony. He had been, previously to his appointment, in charge of the station at . King and the Rum Traffic. The problem of the traffic in spirits , especially on the part of the military officers of the New South Wales Corps, was now becoming more difficult of solution. As soon as any Governor set himself seriously to control this traffic and to put a stop to the abuses connected with it, he incurred the wrath of the military ru m sellers . According to King's account, these men used "every measure that art, cunning, and fraud could suggest" to make his efforts useless . Though he was successful in checking somewhat the evils of the trade in spirits, he naturally made many bitter enemies in the process. He remained in office until 1806, when he was succeeded by Captain Bligh.

Baudin 's Visit. It was during King's rule that a French exploring expedition, under the command of Baudin, visited Sydney. This occurred in 1802. The fear was entertained by King that the French navigators had some intention of annexing Van Diemen's Land-since it was territory separated by sea from New South Wales. For this reason he sent an expedition to that island in 1803, under Lieutenant Bowen. In this way the first settlement at the Derwent was established.

Discovery of Port Phillip. In 1802 Port Phillip was discovered by Lieut. Murray, and not long afterwards was entered by Flinders also, as he was exploring the south coast in his "Investigator" expedition. No permanent settlement was made in its neighbourhood for many years afterwards. 11 North of Sydney, the Hunter River district came into pro- minence at this time, and the discovery of coal there led to the foundation of the important seaport of Newcastle. Flinders' Voyage in the "Investigator." In 1802 Flinders sailed northwards from Sydney, with the intention of exploring further the Australian coast line. He entered and examined the features of the country extending north to Broadsound. He also discovered Port Curtis on the way. Sailing on toward Cape York, he rounded that point and entered the , whose coasts he explored. Though the unsea- worthiness of his vessel compelled him to hasten his course, never- theless he still sailed westward along the north, and, rounding the west coast shores, returned by Bass's Strait to Sydney.

His Further Expe riences in the " Cumberland." Not long after the voyage just mentioned, Flinders set sail for England in a cutter of 29 tons. 'T'his small and crazy vessel was one of the causes of his unfortunate experiences at Mauritius. The "Cumberland's" need of repairs compelled him to call at this place, which then was held by the French. Though there was war between France and England at the time, the explorer had, as a man of science, a passport for travel. The French commander, Baudin, had visited Port Jackson in his ship during this same period-1802. Of his visit there one of his compatriots wrote: All the resources of the country were put at Baudin's disposal." But de Caen, the French Governor at Mauritius, was of a suspicious and apparently brutal character, and when Flinders showed his credentials, his passport did not show the name of the "Cumber- land" written there. To prove that he had reasonable ground for suspicion in regard to the true object of Flinders' voyage, the Governor stated that no sane person would sail for England in a vessel so small and unseaworthy as that which Flinders commanded. The size and condition of his ship thus proved disastrous for the explorer in more ways than one. Flinders' Imprisonment. Flinders strongly resented the imputations made by de Caen, and stood upon his dignity, but the unfortunate incident ended in the committal of Flinders to prison and in his detention at Mauritius for more than six years. His health was broken by hardships and distress of mind, and he died four years after his return to England. "The natural chivalry of the French" is not here in evidence.

Governor Bligh ( 1806-1809). Captain Bligh succeeded King as Governor in 1806. This officer has been the subject of much ridicule, and almost of con- tempt-an attitude of mind sometimes regarded as justified by his 12 actions as Governor. His choleric temper and errors of judgment tended, it is true, to obscure his real virtues and to convey a false idea of his character. The Rum Traffic. As a matter of fact it was, to a great extent, the virtues he possessed that were chiefly instru mental in bringing about his downfall. He had been enjoined by the home authorities to break up the traffic in rum, which was then both an article of trade and a substitute for current cash. As a usual course, a vendor was offered so much rum for the commodity he wished to sell, and Governors themselves sometimes paid for work in the same way. Thus we read later that ardent spirits were employed as a "universal medium of exchange." It is easy, then, to see the difficulty of the task assigned to Bligh, and to understand how readily he would come into collision with the ruling classes, all more or less interested in the traffic in spirits. In the quarrels ensuing on his actions in this connection , Bligh eventually was obliged to succumb to the over- powering hold which the New South Wales Corps possessed over the government of the colony. But it was not only through his attacks on the rum traffic that he came into collision with the military trading class, but also in his taking the part of the poor settler against the rich trader. He initiated, or, at all events, developed the policy of a direct trade communication between the ordinary settler and the Government stores. In this way supplies were to be had by the purchaser at a much more reasonable rate than was the case when obtained from outside sources. Dr. Lang records a case showing the popular view in this relation, as opposed to the ideas of the trading officers of the Corps. The old , to whom he refers, speaks decidedly, if ungram- matically: "Them were the days, sir, of the poor settler; he had only to tell the Governor (Bligh) what he wanted, and he was sure to get it from the stores." It would appear thus that Bligh's greatest crime consisted in his interference with the vested interests of the local profiteers. The dramatic ending of the quarrel between the Governor and the Corps is known to all readers of early Australian history. His enemies sought not only to ruin Bligh's prospects, but to make him appear contemptible before the world. Bligh 's Character. Whilst his sometimes imprudent conduct and violent speech tended to support the theory that he was chiefly to blame in the case, the decision of the courtmartial, held afterwards in London, shows clearly another view of the matter. The leader of the military rising against Bligh-Captain Johnston- was dismissed 13 from the service, whilst the famous corps, which had so long terrorised Governors, was withdrawn from New South Wales. If Bligh fell, he dragged down his enemies with him. But, notwith- standing all, it was as a Rear-Admiral in the Navy that he reached the close of a career as adventurous as it was remarkable. With regardto the characterof thisGovernor and the par- ticular view of it, best known to later times, the poet's words seem particularly appropriate for quotation- "The evil that men do lives after them; The good is oft interred with their bones."

CHAPTER III. Governor Macquarie (1809 -1821). Colonel assumed office at the close of 1809. His is one of the best known of all the early Governors. He held office for nearly twelve years, and during that time he undertook to carry out an active policy of expansion of settlement, though within certain lines . This course of action, as now became apparent, was a matter of necessity, and Macquarie entered upon it with charac- teristic zeal. Relieved of the military opposition, fatal to Bligh, he was able to concentrate his energies on the work of development. now so necessa ry for the colony.

The Road to Bathurst. At the period following Macquarie's assumption of office there began to be felt a growing need of fuller room for wider settlement. After several unsuccessful attempts to cross the Blue Mountains and reach the interior directly to the west-the first of which was made by Lieutenant Dawes-the party consisting of Blaxland, Lawson, and Wentworth at length succeeded in finding a practicable route. From the first attempt to this last successful one, in 1813, a period of twenty-four years had elapsed. The Governor was not long in following up the discovery made by the three explorers, and before long a road had been formed over the range which opened up the way for the founding of Bathurst. The abundant supply of convict labour at the time naturally very much facilitated the operations necessary for carrying out so extensive a work

Public Works. The erection of public buildings of various kinds was also undertaken to an almost excessive extent for a community still so small. These structures, in some cases of great size, are said to have reached a total of 250 before the end of Macquarie's term of rule. The "Rum Hospital" was one of the most noted of them. 14 The Emancipists. Macquarie's policy of extending special favour to liberated con- victs, or emancipists-though a very laudable one when intelligently carried out-did not commend itself either to the upper classes of the community or to the free settler struggling to live. The former class refused to have any dealings with emancipists, excepting on strictly business lines, whilst the settlers complained bitterly that greater favour was shown to the liberated convicts than to themselves. But Macquarie chose to regard New South Wales as, first of all, a penal settlement, and, in his opinion, free settlers in coming there did so at their own risk. Immigration was certainly not encouraged at this time, whilst the community was shown every favour. In his views on empire building Macquarie was, without doubt, somewhat short- sighted.

The Macquarie Name. This Governor's well known weakness was his fondness for having his name bestowed on any new locality. It was a com- paratively harmless vanity, but it was used occasionally by interested persons to further private ends. It is owing to this feature of his character that we find the name of Macquarie-varied by that of Lachlan-associated with various places from the Macquarie River in New South Wales to Macquarie Harbour on Tasmania's west coast. Though his policy would prevent his being a favourite among a considerable section of the community, yet it is said of him that "he died justly regretted by a large proportion of the colonists." His personal character was one beyond reproach.

Gove rn or Brisban e ( 1821 -1825). Macquarie was succeeded by Sir Thos. Brisbane in 1821, and the new Governor held office until 1825. He was more a soldier and man of science than an active organiser, and he did not at all resemble his energetic predecessor in the latter's vigorous policy of progress. But a favourable change now took place in the position of immigrants and free settlers. Men of this class were treated more liberally, and incomers were made more welcome. Conditions were rapidly changing, and it was evident that the colony must henceforth be regarded as forming more than a mere penal settle- ment. Exploration and Expan sion. During Governor Brisbane's rule the work of exploration and of expansion was making progress rapidly, both near at hand and in regions remote from Sydney. The results of enterprise of this kind were seen from Geelong in the south to the Brisbane River, far northwards. It was this Governor's visit to the northern settle- 15 ment in 1824 which became the occasion of our capital receiving its present name. It is at this period also that Moreton Bay begins to figure definitely in New South Wales history. Gove rn or Darling ( 1826-1831). Sir was succeeded by Governor Darling, who held office until 1831. During this period a vigorous struggle went on for the establishment of "free institutions." The "free" element in society was increasing in number and influence. Exploring Work. Much exploring also was now carried on, and with marked success in most cases. Sturt in the far interior westward, and Allan Cunningham in the north, had both accomplished important work. The discovery of the Darling Downs by the latter, in 1827, marked an epoch in the history of Moreton Bay. Darling's policy of showing special favour to the official and military classes made him unpopular with the general community, whilst his more severe prison discipline would not tend to make him a favourite with the convict section. Characters of Brisbane and Darling Contrasted. The character of Governor Darling presented a strong contrast to that of Sir Thomas Brisbane, his predecessor, and in their qualities these two men differed from each other as decidedly as Gipps and Fitzroy represented opposite characters in later times. The strong points of the one were the weak points of the other. Brisbane's career had been a brilliant one, both from a military and scientific standpoint, and as Governor of New South Wales he was able to take wide views and to form the judgments of a capable administrator. But he had not the necessary energy and force of character to cope with the opposition which he met with. Governor Darling, on the other hand, was, in his official character, something of a martinet, and undertook successfully the work of organising, on a proper basis, the business affairs of the colony. He was exact in his work, and strict in enforcing discipline in public and official affairs. But, in contrast with Brisbane, he lacked "vision," and was unlike his predecessor in the capacity to take wide views and to see far imperially. Whilst Brisbane had in his composition the materials of a possible "empire builder"-to express it in modern terms-Darling's capabilities were rather those which would have made him a competent head of some important branch of the civil service. As things stood, however, in those times in New South Wales, it is probable that Darling, during his period of office, produced more solid results from his personal labours than his predecessor could show as the result of his work as Governor. Both men were alike in one particular. The opposition or indifference, exhibited by many of the civil community, and the 16 encompassing difficulties of their position as heads of a no doubt were sufficient to justify Brisbane's words, when he stated that "here an angel from heaven could not get on." Darling's views, in reference to these considerations, were expressed still more strongly and emphatically, and Thomas Dun- babin, in "The Making of Australasia," quotes Darling's words in the expression of the latter's views regarding the members of the community. According to this Governor, New South Wales, in the idea of people in England, seemed to offer "a suitable asylum for fools and madmen as well as for rogues and vagabonds." His description of local conditions is, at any rate, not lacking in emphasis andrelarity, whilst as to the estimate of the community which they were called to govern, it is evident that Brisbane and Darling were of one mind and one spirit.

Governor Bourke (1831-1837). Darling was succeeded by Sir , who held office for six years after 2nd December, 1831. At the time at which Bourke assumed office the era of fuller exploration and discovery had already opened. Captain Sturt had by 1829 completed his successful journey westwards, when he discovered the Bogan River and the Darling. In the following year he discovered the Lower Murray and traced its course to the sea. Its upper course had been already found by Hume and Hovell about five years before. In 1831 the South Australian Association was formed in Lon- don with the idea of colonising South Australia, though this project was not carried into actual fact for another five years. All the "signs of the times" pointed to a rapid enlargement of geographical knowledge and speedy extension of settlement. Before Bourke's term of office ended, Major Mitchell had discovered the district of Western Victoria and learned of its fertility. Mitchell, in 1836, found the Hentys settled at Portland Bay, whither, from Tasmania, they had travelled two years previously, whilst Batman and Fawkner had sailed up the Yarra River and settled on its banks in 1835. This settlement not only formed the beginning of Melbourne, but gave rise to a great influx into Port Phillip of fresh land seekers, who began to take up country there far and wide.

Altera tion in Land Laws. In New South Wales itself important changes now were made in the method of acquiring land for settlement.. The power of granting land was taken away from the Governor and the alienation of territory belonging to the State was henceforth to be carried out only by sale at public auction. Intending purchasers were, however, able to have any blocks, for which they desired to bid, put up for auction by giving due notice of their wish to the authorities. 17 Immigration. Recognising the new conditions now in existence, the Govern- ment gave more attention to the question of immigration. Large numbers of settlers were sent out from England at Government expense, though this work was not taken up in any way systematically under State management. But even thus, much good work was done, and other efforts of the same kind were successfully made by companies, or even by individuals. Religious Equality. It was in 1836 that an Act was passed by which religious equality was established by law throughout New South Wales. Under this Act a clergyman of any recognised religious denomination was entitled to an annual salary from the State, according to the number of his congregation. The Act continued in force until 1862. The amount of subsidy was from £100 to £200 in each case, according to the number of the members of each church. It will be seen that much progress was being made at this time, and that men's thoughts had not travelled far from Governor Macquarie's "point of view." Bourke's term of office may be said to include that transition when "old things" were more or less " passing away" and new conditions were coming into existence. Governor Gipps ( 1838-1846). Sir George Gipps took up office in 1838 and, as we know, figured largely in early Moreton Bay history. He did not make himself beloved either in New South Wales generally, or in the northern colony on the Brisbane River. Though really one of the ablest of the Colonial Governors, and a speaker of exceptional power, he alienated people by his overbearing manner and arbitrary course of action . It was, no doubt, this side of his character, as it revealed itself, which led one of his critics to state concerning him, that he was "remarkably deficient in the finer feelings of humanity." Though this criticism is in all probability too severe in its condemnation, it is hardly less caustic than closing references to his departure from New South Wales, made in the public press. An article there lamented the fact of his ill-health, but "rejoiced at his departure" from the colony. Candour could scarcely become more extreme. Representa tive Government. During Gipps' reign a modified form of representative Govern- ment was established in New South Wales. This took place in 1842. A nominee Legislative Council had already been in existence for some years. The new body contained many members of capacity and note, among them Wentworth, Windeyer, Lowe, and Cooper. Gipps in Moreton Bay. As Gipps was in office when Moreton Bay became a "free" 18 colony, he naturally had much to do with its affairs at that time. But his actions in regard to this matter come more properly into consideration in dealing with the history of Moreton Bay itself . There, as at headquarters in Sydney, his policy of using all means of raising money for the public treasury was severely censured and condemned. His period of office was a stormy one, and his health is said to have been broken down by the civil and political struggle which for years was carried on by him as Governor of New South Wales. Governor Fitzroy ( 1846-1855). Gipps' successor was Sir George Fitzroy, who held office from 1846 to 1855. As a man of entirely opposite character to Gipps, he was at first popular with the general community, but owing to his general feebleness of rule-not to mention more positive defects-he had lost this popularity long before he left the colony. He did as much as possible to help on Earl Grey's new scheme of transportation of convicts to New South Wales. It is true this scheme was very different in its leading ideas from the old system of rigorous punishment, and was constituted more along reformatory lines . But the dying struggles of the whole system, as far as eastern Australia is concerned, are referred to later on. Fitzroy himself was simply the mouthpiece of Earl Grey in this matter. His action in that relation was consonant with his general attitude of mind, and whilst it may be said that Gipps aroused men's dislike or even hatred, Fitzroy rather awakened their contempt. Among the important public events of this period we may note the establishment of the Sydney University in 1852. Governor Denison ( 1855-1861) The last four years before the separation of Moreton Bay from the boundaries of New South Wales in 1859, were passed under Sir . As far as the Brisbane settlement was concerned at that period, the new Governor did not do anything to earn its gratitude or deserve its favour . He opposed " Separation" as long and as strongly as he was able. When that question was finally decided by the authorities in London, the Governor supported the party which favoured the retention of the Clarence and Northern Rivers country by New South Wales. The action of the Government in this matter laid the foundation of the movement which, in the beginning of the present century, has grown into an active agitation for the formation of a new State there.

19 This is a blank page

PART II CAPTAIN COOK'S SHIP "ENDEAVOUR" SAILING NORTHWARD PAST THE GLASSHOUSE MOUNTAINS 17th MAY, 1770. MORETON BAY SETTLEMENT or QUEENSLAND BEFORE SEPARATION.

CHAPTER IV.

Cook's Voyage in the "Endeavour " in 1770. It was on 31st March, 1770, that Captain Cook left behind him the shores of New Zealand as he sailed westward. His ship, the "Endeavour," was a small vessel of 368 tons. This was of the structure then known at "cat-built." The term has no relation to the animal of that name, but is of Norwegian origin, and is used to distinguish vessels of a certain type. A barque of this kind was broad and round in the bows, gradually narrowing toward the stern. Cook purposely chose a vessel of this type as being safer for running ashore in case such a necessity should arise. As we know, the explorer was actually obliged to beach his ship inside the mouth of a river on the north-east coast of Australia, hence named the .

His Discovery of the East Coast of Australia. Cook first sighted the coastline of New Holland, as Australia was then named, on 15th April, at latitude 38 deg., and to the most southerly point visible he gave the name of , from that of the officer on board who first perceived the place. A heavy gale from the south, then raging, was apparently the reason inducing him to turn his course northwards, though, from the language of his journal, he seems to have had a desire to find out by examination whether the coastline which he had just sighted was separated from Van Diemen's Land. Such a thing appeared not improbable, since the land on the south of the point, off which he was, was seen to fall away rapidly toward the south-west. He contented himself, however, with jotting down in his journal the remark : "I cannot determine whether it joins to Van Diemen's Land or not." Turning his course now definitely northwards, at 6 o'clock in the eveningof the same day he reachedthe pointup the coast 23 o'

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CAFTAIN COOK'S CHART OF THE COASTLINE OF MORETON BAY (1770) which he named . Fortunately, on the day following- 20th April-the weather had become clear again and his ship was sufficiently close to land to enable him to obtain a good view of the country, "which," he states, "had a very pleasing appearance." The voyage northwards was continued for a week, points on the coast being noted and named as the ship passed. It was not until the 28th that Cook and his company reached the spot off the coast where he first sighted the entrance of Botany Bay. "At daybreak (28th April) we discovered a bay, into which I deter- mined to go with the ship." It was early in the afternoon of that day that Cook anchored, about two miles within the entrance, on the southern side and near the beach. Three days later one of his crew died, and was buried on the headland not far off. The sailor had been called Sutherland, and this name Captain Cook gave to the southern point of the entrance. Sutherland Point, therefore, must have been the first place named in this part of the coast.

Naming of Botany Bay. It is evident from his journal that Cook at first intended to call the inlet Stingray Bay, and, in fact, we know that he wrote this, in the first instance, as its name. There is no doubt that con- siderable discussion must have taken place among the members of Cook's party before it was decided to make Botany Bay the definite name of the harbour. Dr. Solander was an enthusiastic botanist, and it is certainly this latter descriptive title which he would favour as being the most appropriate to the bay and its vicinity. In the nature of the case the permanence of any one designation is uncer- tain, most of all in connection with new discoveries. Even the name given by the navigator to the country comprising the whole east coast was not finally settled at the beginning. Banks writes of the country as "New Holland," whilst Cook first wrote the name which he gave to the east coast as "New Wales." Evidently, only after further consideration, he changed it to New South Wales. Not many years passed after the visit of Cook before voyagers arrived at Botany Bay, seeking there a place of permanent abode.

Arrival of Governor Phillip. Governor Phillip with his party cast anchor in Botany Bay in January, 1788. He did not remain there permanently, but formed his settlement in the neighbouring harbour of Port Jackson. The site chosen then became the centre of the city of Sydney. It was the progress of this colony which, in later years, led to Oxley's journey from Sydney northwards, as well as to the settlement formed by his party on the banks of the Brisbane River, near Moreton Bay. The Governor of New South Wales, in despatching Oxley to the north, was only seeking to form an out- 25 settlement within the borders of his own territories, since that colony then extended, at least nominally, from the Derwent River to Cape York. Northern New South Wales. The State, of which Brisbane now forms the capital, was therefore, in early days, a part of the territory of New South Wales. But it was an unknown land as far as the people of Sydney were concerned-a veritable "Ultima Thule." There were no popular misconceptions as to the nature of the country far north, for the very simple reason that there were no conceptions of any kind. Cook and Flinders had described a few points along the coast, and that was all. But the idea of the Sydney authorities when they did at last turn their attention in the direction of the northern coastlines was not in any way connected with the spirit of adventure, or inspired by thirst for knowledge, as an end in itself. What they really wanted was to find out means whereby as wide a distance as possible should be placed between themselves and the convict settlement which they hoped, presently, to found at some suitable spot on the far northern shore. To understand the limited degree of the knowledge which men then possessed of the north -east coast, we must go back and note the extent of the discoveries of Cook and Flinders. Cook' s journal on Moreton Bay. The first knowledge of the Moreton Bay territory acquired by any European navigator we shall find recorded in Captain Cook's journal of 1770. The following extract, taken from it, contains the account of his discovery of Moreton Bay: "16th May.-On the north side of Point Lookout the shore forms a wide, open bay, which I called Morton's Bay, in the bottom of which the land is so low that I could but just see it from the topmast head. "Thursday, 17th May.-The land that was farthest to the north the night before now bore S.S.W., distance six leagues, and I gave it the name of Cape Morton, it being the north point of Morton Bay. Its latitude is 26 deg. 56 min. From Cape Morton the land trends away west, farther than can be seen, for there is a small space where at this time no land is visible, and someone on board having also observed that the sea looked paler than usual, were of the opinion that the bottom of Morton Bay opened into a river. Should any future navigator be disposed to determine the question -whether there is or is not a river in this place-which the wind would not permit us to do, the situation may be always found by three hills, which lie, to the northward of it, latitude 26 deg. 5 3 min. "These hills lie but a little way inland and not far from each other; they are remarkable for the singular form of their elevation, 26 158 0

e-A44 r 4 CAPTAIN MATTHEW FLINDERS ' CHART OF MORETON BAY ( 1799). which very much resembles a glass house, and for which reason I called them the Glass Houses. The northernmost of the three is the highest and largest." Cook' s Description of Moreton Bay. Though Cook gained a considerable knowledge of the outline of the coast at Moreton Bay neighbourhood, remembering the fact that he only sailed past there at some distance from the outer shore, yet his chart shows that he did not really learn the true character the great bay itself. In his circumstances it would have been practically impossible to do so. We learn from his chart that Cook thought there were two bays. These he named Moreton Bay and Glass House Bay respectively. he regarded as the headland of a promontory reaching back to, and connected with, the main coastline. It was Flinders who discovered that the land behind Cape Moreton really formed an island, and that Moreton Bay itself extended from Pumice Stone Passage southward, past the middle opening (through which Cook had looked upon the inner surface), and as far as islands nearly 40 miles from Bribie south- wards. Its waters at the southern extremity Flinders was not able to explore. It is therefore all the more remarkable that Cook or his party, from a cursory inspection, judged that a river would ultimately be found flowing into the western side of the bay, whilst Flinders, after all his researches, declared positively that no river flowed into the sea at that part of the Australian coast. But events quickly proved Cook's conjecture true, as soon as the exploration of this coastline was undertaken seriously. Flinders' Work. Although Flinders was not successful in his search for a possible river flowing into the western waters of Moreton Bay, his work as an explorer in that region was of the highest importance and value. His efforts made known the general physical features of the country round about, and revealed many of the hidden dangers and difficulties in connection with the navigation of the bay itself. His work, therefore, justly claims an important place in any account dealing with the history of the Brisbane River and its discovery. It may be said that Flinders had a passion for exploration; though his work with , in finding the opening through , does not properly concern the present subject, yet the spirit shown in that undertaking proved his capacity and worth in any other field of action of a similar kind. The example of Bass also urged Flinders on to fresh efforts in the same direction else- where, and his own account will best explain the circumstances which led him to active exploring work northwards. Flinders' Journal. In his journal for the year 1799, Flinders gives the following account:-" Bass's success favoured my views of a further dis- 28 covery, and the 'Reliance' not being immediately wanted for service, his Excellency accepted a proposition to explore Glass- house and Hervey Bays-two large openings to the northward, of which the entrances only were known. I had hopes of finding a considerable river discharging itself at one of these openings, and of being also, by its means, able to penetrate further into the interior of the country than had hitherto been effected. "The sloop 'Norfolk' was again allotted to me, and I was accompanied by Mr. S. W. Flinders, midshipman of the 'Reliance,' and by Bongaree, a native. Of the assistance of my friend, Bass, I was however deprived, he having quitted the station to return to England. The time of my absence was limited to six weeks." It is well for the reader to make a note of the limited time available for Flinders on this occasion as regards the carrying out of any work completely. He sailed from port on 8th July, 1799, and on the 14th his vessel was off the islands of Moreton Bay. Here he tells us "the navigator (Captain Cook) had left it in doubt whether there was any opening, and therefore we closed in again with the land at Point Look-out. At noon the point bore south, and the opening in Moreton Bay was then evident. It is small, and formed by two sandy points, beyond which a large extent of border was visible. At eight in the evening the anchor was dropped in seven fathoms at the entrance of Glasshouse Bay (i.e., north Moreton Bay). "In the evening of the 15th the sloop was at anchor within two miles of a low projection, which an unfortunate occurrence afterwards caused to be named Point Skirmish. On the 16th an opening was perceived round the point, and being much in want of a place to lay the ship on shore on account of a leak, I tried to enter, but not finding it accessible from the south, was obliged to make the examination with the boat while the sloop lay at anchor five miles off. There was a party of natives on the point, and our communication was at first friendly; but after receiving presents they made an attack, and one of them was wounded by our fire. "Proceeding up the opening, I found it to be more than a mile in width, and from the quantity of pumice-stone on the borders it was called Pumice-stone River. It led toward the remark- able peaks called the Glass Houses."

His Explora tion of Moreton Bay. Here Flinders partly repaired his vessel, and on the 17th "proceeded up the bay with the afternoon's ." By the 19th the party had reached a sixth island, and their vessel was beginning to get into very shallow waters toward the southern end of the bay. "Above (i.e., south of) this island the east and west shores, from being nine or ten miles apart, approach each other within two miles, and the space between them takes the form of a river, 29 CAPTAIN MATTHEW FLINDERS, R.N. Born at Donington , Lincolnshire , England, 1774. but the entrance was too full of shoals to leave a hope that it could be of importance to navigation." Flinders reckoned that he had sailed thirty-four miles south from Cape Moreton, and by that time he had become quite discouraged and had lost any hope of finding a large river which opened a way into the interior. Doubtless, the fact that he sailed his vessel down the bay, instead of, like Oxley, using a rowing boat, had a great deal to do with his missing the river's mouth, seeing that the attention of all on board would be necessarily very much taken up with the work of avoiding the shoals. These shoals, moreover, would keep his vessel far off shore in many places. He now decided to return to Pumice-stone River, and repair his ship more completely. When this was done he sailed further up the Pumice-stone inlet and arranged to make an excursion to the Glass House Mountains. He found there none of the marks of volcanic eruption which he had expected from having seen so much pumice stone in the waters of the narrow strait. On 31st July the party of navigators sailed out of Pumice-stone River and northward up the coast toward Hervey's Bay. Flinders, before leaving, named , calling it by the title given to the northern cape by Cook. This he did, "as supposing it would have received that name from Captain Cook had he known of its insularity." It is to be remarked that in the chart of Moreton Bay, drawn by Flinders, the spot, named by him Redcliff Point, corresponds with the modern Woody Point. Allan Cunningham's chart of 1829 locates it in the same way.

CHAPTER V. Third Exploring Period. As nearly thirty years had elapsed from the time when Cook sailed past Moreton Bay on his way north , so now more than twenty years were to pass before the work of Flinders , begun in the same neighbourhood , was to be taken up again by other explorers. His positive statements in his report of the results of his work in 1799, might well have damped the ardour of anyone who con- sidered the possibility of a fresh expedition to that place. His words, in regard to this , are as follows :-" It was then an ascertained fact that no river of importance intersected the east coast between the 24th and 29th degree of south latitude ." This sweeping state- ment-taking in the whole coastline from the latitude of Gladstone of to-day, almost as far south as ort Macqua ri e in New South Wales-denies the existence both of the Brisbane and the C1a'lrence. The error of the statement is rendered still more noted when we know that Flinders, without being aware of the fact, at one time had his vessel actually in the bay forming the mouth of the latter river. 31 Discovery of Port Curtis. His further voyage in 1802-that made in the "Investigator"- though very important in itself, only indirectly affects our present subject. On one point, however, this voyage had a very important connection with the future history of Moreton Bay. As Flinders sailed northward he discovered and named the harbour of Port Curtis. This bay Cook had sailed past in the night, and conse- quently was not aware of its existence. But its discovery and the favourable report made by Flinders in regard to its possibilities, suggested to the authorities in Sydney the idea that this district might be suitable for a fresh penal out-settlement. It was with this idea that Oxley was appointed to command an expedition which should sail north, to examine and report on its suitability for a settlement . It will be thus seen that the third attempt at further discoveries northwards was not inspired by any scientific enthusiasm or by any spirit of adventure. The main motive was founded on considerations purely official and practical. The authorities of the Sydney Penal Colony wished to found somewhere in the distance a new settlement to receive the "double-dyed felons," who in truth, formed a real menace to the welfare of the other members of the prison community. It had become plain to everyone that it was both unwise and unjust that the better class of convicts should be contaminated by compulsory association with abandoned and incorrigible criminals. Consequently, those in authority began to look round for some spot, sufficiently remote, to which the worst class of offenders could be safely consigned. Oxley Explores Moreton Bay. We find that Oxley set out on his voyage of investiga- tion late in 1823, sailing in the Government cutter "Mermaid." His examination of the country round Port Curtis did not impress him favourably, as far as concerned its suitability for settlement, and after a brief stay in that neighbourhood he determined to return southward and further explore the coastline of Moreton Bay. Though Flinders' report on its nature and character was not specially favourable, he had yet said sufficient to awaken a desire to carry out further exploration there. Oxley accordingly, sailing south, reached the southern end of on 29th November, 1823. Rounding Point Skirmish, he sailed into the mouth of Pumice-stone River-as Flinders named the strait-and cast anchor there. Probably his vessel then 'lay not far from the position of the jetty which gives communication with Bribie township at the present day. It is at the date of 29th November, 1823, that the settlement really begins, and henceforward it develops rapidly. Events Leading Directly to the Discovery of the River. Whilst both Cook and Flinders seem to have been generally unfortunate in their experiences in connection with the exploration 32 of Moreton Bay, Oxley on the other hand appearsto have been favoured specially by circumstances in the same undertaking. When Oxley cast anchor at Bribie Island, almost his first experience was the discovery of a white man among the natives on shore. This refugee was, as was presently learned, one of three shipwrecked timber-getters from the district of Illawarra, south of Sydney. The story of these men is so closely connected with Oxley's experiences in Moreton Bay, that it seems only fitting to relate their history. Though Oxley does not make any acknowledgment of the fact, it is nevertheless manifest, from details related by other members of his company, that from these castaways he obtained more or less definite information regarding the existence of a river, which flowed from the westward into Moreton Bay. The three men had been wrecked on the outside coastline of Moreton Island, and had found their way across the bay to the southern side of Brisbane River. This could, of course, have been done only with the friendly help of the blacks. Later on, they made their way north, until Pamphlett and Finnegan found them- selves on Bribie Island. Some of their other adventures will be found recorded in Oxley's journal, from which extracts will best explain, in his own words, some of their experiences, as well as his own. Lieutenant John Oxley 's Diary. "Saturday, 29th November, 1823.-We rounded Point Skirmish about 5 o'clock, and observed a number of natives running along the beach towards the vessel. The foremost one appeared very much lighter in colour than the rest. We took him for a half-caste, but were to the last degree astonished, when he came abreast the vessel (which had just anchored) to hear him hail us in good English. We immediately went on shore, and were received by the poor man with a breathlessness that almost deprived him of utterance. He said his name was Thos. Pamphlett, that he left Sydney on the 21st March, in company with three men, Richd. Parsons, Jno. Finnegan, and another whose name he does not remember, being a stranger to him. He said that, intending to go to the Five Islands for ced-ar they were caught by a gale of wind shortly ater quitting the Heads, and were blown out of sight of land; that some days after, when the gale abated, they made the land again, and thought they had been blown to the south, near Jervis Bay; they kept to the North 21 days, without water, having only 4 galls. when they sailed. The man, whose name he does not know, died for want of it; had plenty of provisions, but had neither fire nor the means of procuring any; ran the boat on shore on the outside of a large island (proved to be Moreton Island), where she was dashed to pieces; walked round the island, fell in with natives, who were universally kind to them and assisted them; that they wandered for many weeks round the shore of Moreton lay in entire ignorance of where they were; went up a river, whIc they 33 found to be fresh at some distance from its mouth, descended in a canoe, and found their way to Point Skirmish, receiving occasional assistance from the natives; that three or four months ago, still believing themselves to the south of Sydney, they set forward to the north; that himself and Finnegan, being footsore, soon returned to Point Skirmish; that Parsons went on. He does not know where he is now, but thinks he is not many days journey from this place. The natives were certainly kind to him. Finnegan (he continued) went upon a hunting excursion about three or four weeks ago with the chief of the tribe of Point Skirmish, and is now on the opposite side of the bay." When Pamphlett's account of his experiences was being related to Oxley and the members of his party the native residents of the island had naturally gathered around them. So Oxley goes on with his story:- "Natives were around us (meantime ) in considerable numbers, and seemed most friendly. Pamphlett assured us they would do us no harm, and had treated him with great kindness. He after- wards gave many curious and interesting particulars respecting them. "Found plenty of good fresh water in deep swamps close to the beach; endeavoured to make the natives understand, through our native, Bowen, and Pamphlett, our desire to see the other two white men. Returned on board, taking Pamphlett with us."

Oxley makes Preparations for the Examination of the Western Shore of Moreton Bay. "Sunday, 30th November.-Fresh winds from south and east; sent all the water casks on shore, and preparing to examine the western shores of the bay in the morrow. About 3 o'clock we had the satisfaction to see a white man wading into the water from the point opposite, and on sending a boat for him he proved to be , whose actions, words, and countenance showed how deeply he was overpowered by his sudden and unlooked for deliverance; his account of the wreck of the boat and their subsequent adventures perfectly coincided with the state- ment we had previously received from Pamphlett, and was some- what clearer as to dates; his manner throughout was truly diverting, yet was perfectly original; his remarks did high credit to the native simplicity of disposition, which seemed a marked feature in their character. He spoke highly of his entertainers, and agreed with Pamphlett in praising the kind and humane treatment which they had received from the untutored beings who inhabit these shores. Finnegan quitted his companion, Parsons, three days after Pam- phlett-being afraid of his wild language and threat that he would do him some bodily harm; they were both reduced to the last extremity of hunger, not having seen any of their friendly natives for some days." 34 LIEUT. JOHN OXLEY ( Born in England 1781) This is a blank page

After quitting Parsons' company, Finnegan wished to con- tinue his journey to the north, i.e., in the supposed direction of Sydney, but he was prevented by some friendly natives from pursuing this course. When these natives told him that in going north "he would meet with people who would ill-use him," they were only stating what subsequent unfortunate travellers found by expe rience to be quite true. The fate of Captain Fraser and the crew of the "Stirling Castle," wrecked afterwards on the island off the coast of Wide Bay district, proved the treacherous and savage character of the natives of that place. The discovery of a New Zealand canoe of large size on the east coast of Moreton Island drew Oxley's attention here to a con- sideration of the coastal currents off the eastern shores of Australia. "These currents," he tells us, "appear out at sea, to set strong to the southward; in shore, to the north. The men in the boat (Pamphlett, Finnegan , etc.) were deceived by these currents; leaving Sydney at a period of the year when it is known the southerly currents prevail strongest, they at once conceived they must have been sent in that direction, whereas, not being in the stream of that current, they were set to the north, and they were only convinced to the contrary by their falling in with us." Oxley's Further Exploration of the Bay and Discovery of Brisbane River. On 1st December, 1823, the day following his meeting with Pamphlett and Finnegan, Oxley set out on his exploring tour round the western side of the bay. Towards evening of the same day his party arrived at a place not far from Redcliff Point. The words of his diary show how rapidly he must have advanced on Tuesday, 2nd December, in order to enter the mouth of the river at so early an hour. In his diary he writes:- "Tuesday, 2nd December.-Calm and fine; at 6 we again embarked and pulled along the shores of the harbour, and at 8 we entered the mouth of a very large river having 3 or 4 fathoms." According to his statement, they rowed the distance-which must be ten or twelve miles in a straight line-in two hours, which would apparently show that they must have advanced virtually in a direct course from the one point to the other. This proceeding tends to strengthen the idea that Oxley had some information to guide him in taking this route . He has, in fact, already referred to such information in his diary notes . In repeating Pamphlett's account of his adventures , he states that this man and his companions, Finnegan and Parsons , in wandering round the shores of Moreton Bay, "went up a river, which they found to be fresh at some distance from its mouth ." The receipt by Oxley of fuller information in regard to this unknown river is told in the account of Mr. Uniacke, a member of the expedition , who, in giving his statement of events, reports these adventurers as concurring in the story that they "had crossed 35 a large river which fell into the south end of the bay." Whilst Oxley refers to this circumstance in his diary, he omitted to mention it in his official report. Whether the omission was inten- tional, or merely owing to a lapse of memory, it is impossible for us to know definitely. However this may be, the important point is that the mouth of the stream, now known as Brisbane River, was entered by the party at 8 o'clock on the morning of 2nd December, 1823. Oxley describes the circumstances in his official report:-"The muddiness of the water and the abundance of fresh water mollusca, convinced us we were entering a large river; a few hours ended our anxiety on that point by the water becoming perfectly fresh." He Explores the Course of the River. The party continued their expedition up the river for many miles. The explorer writes in very eulogistic terms of the beauty and fertility of much of the country along its banks. Regarding its value as a of communication, he states:-"The slowness of the current and depth of water induce me to conclude that the river will be found navigable for vessels of burden to a very considerable distance, probably at least 50 miles." His description of the river itself is given in rather exaggerated terms, and some of his statements have been shown to be incorrect. Towards the close of the diary of his first journey up the river he gives us an account of the theory which he formed as to the probable source of the Brisbane River. This it is appropriate to quote at this juncture, especially as it is a theory which was much favoured by later explorers for some time after Oxley wrote. Towards the end of his first journal he writes:-" I cannot help entertaining a strong impression that this is no river having its source in mountain streams. I see none to give them. On the contrary, my opinion is strongly in favour of its deriving its source in an interior lake. Whatever turns out to be the case, it is by far the largest river in New South Wales, and promises to be of the utmost importance to the colony from the very fertile country it passes through, affording the means of water communication with the sea to a vast extent of country, the greater portion of which is capable of producing the richest productions of the tropics." Further on in his report he continues:-"I had not contem- plated such a discovery, and was therefore totally unprovided with the present means of ascertaining how much further the river was navigable. We were about 70 miles from the vessel, and our pro, visions were only calculated for the present day. The entrance of the river was also to be sounded and its position fixed, as also a large island (near the entrance, which from a cursory view , I was induced to think might prove eligible as a primary place of settlement) required to be examined. "I therefore determined to return down the river as far as the Queen Hill, and afterwards proceed to determine such points 36 as are mentioned above, the great object of a large navigable river, having its source in the inte rior, being determined." In the beginning of his journey Oxley had expe rienced the pleasures of the discoverer , but at its close , as he returned to the point at the river's mouth whence he had set out, he and his party met with some of the hardships also incidental to travellers in new lands. "It was dark," he writes, "when we got to the entrance of the river . We could not land on any part of the shore for man- groves and mud banks . We were forced to take up our residence on a island , covered by the tide at spring tide. We had scarce pitched the tents on this bank before we had a heavy storm of wind and rain, with thunder and lightning , which lasted about 2 hours, wetting us, and adding to the discomforts of innumerable hosts of mosquitoes." The party had started up the river on Tuesday , 2nd December, and on Friday, 5th December, Oxley reports that on that day, the weather being calm and clear, he "took bearings to determine the entrance of the river."

Extent of Oxley' s Previous Knowledge regarding River. As regards the extent of Oxley's knowledge of facts connected with the existence of a river flowing into Moreton Bay before he set out from Bribie Island anchorage to explore, a quotation from this first diary seems very suggestive. As they rowed up stream Oxley makes, in reference to a place they passed, the following entry: "We arrived at the mouth of a small river, which we called Canoe River, being the spot where Parsons and his comp an ions found a canoe in which they went down the river." One of the party here mentioned was then, as we know, on board the boat with Oxley. The inference from this is obvious.

His Return to Sydney. When the issue of his exploration had proved so favourable, and since his whole undertaking had turned out so well, the official statement which he was able to furnish on his return to Sydney was naturally highly satisfactory. His report on the suitability of the Moreton Bay neighbourhood for the founding of such a colony as the Sydney authorities desired to establish, could scarcely fail to induce them to decide upon taking steps toward carrying out that project. It was not until somewhat late in the following year-1824- that preparations were completed for the transport of the first con- tingent of the worst class of felons from Sydney to Moreton Bay. Some forty of these were placed on board the ship "Amity," and being landed first at the northerly point of , their vessel gave that place its name. 37 Oxley's Second Voyage to Moreton Bay and his Second Expedition up the Brisbane River (at that Time). Oxley, with his party, arrived at Moreton Bay for the second time on Saturday, 10th September, 1824. After anchoring a mile off shore, near Moreton Island, he proceeded in the whale boat to the Pumice-stone River-as Flinders had named the narrow strait there. His object was, first of all, to seek for traces of Parsons, the missing man of the three castaways, two of whom, Pamphlett and Finnegan, had already been rescued on the previous expedition. On approaching the shore, Oxley at once recognised this man among a company of natives, and communication with him was soon established. Parsons was at first quite overcome by the joy of his sudden deliverance. He had been very kindly treated by the blacks, and one of the old men among them "evinced the strongest marks of attachmnt towards him," and seemed very much affected by the departure of his white visitor.

Choice of First Site. Three days after Oxley's first arrival his men explored the mainland on the western side of the bay, that opposite to them, and-as Oxley wrote-"the report (given by these men) was very favourable, and confirmed the opinion I had previously formed. With the concurrence of and approbation of Lieut. Miller, Com- mandant of the intended establishment, I fixed upon a site for the settlement close to Redcliffe Point, possessing permanent good water close at hand, good soil in its immediate vicinity fit for most agricul- tural purposes, well adapted for grazing, with a sufficiency of useful timber for present purposes. Miller appeared highly pleased with the situation, and with the favourable prospects of establishing himself and people, which the appearance of the country held out to him." On 14th September "the most eligible places for the different public buildings" were chosen, whilst the day following was chiefly spent "in preparing the boats for a continuance of a survey of the river Brisbane."

Exploration of the Brisbane River. It is worth noting that in this expedition Allan Cunningham, the. Sydney botanist, was to form one of the party. Oxley did not delay in carrying out his exploring work up the river. On the 16th September he reached a point up stream almost as far as the tributary now known as . Two days later his party reached and halted at Termination Plains, in the neighbourhood of the present Goodna. In his later journal, detailing the incidents of his second exploration of the river, Oxley again refers to his belief in the possibility that the Brisbane River may drain the plains of the interior. The result of his first expedition had almost destroyed his 38 hope of proving true this theory, but his hopes in regard to this were again revived by the discoveries of his second journey. One fact which led him to believe that his first view was the correct one, was that of securing from the Brisbane River a specimen of the Bathurstcod fish. He writes, in reference to this subject, as follows:-"My hopes of finding this (the Brisbane) an interior river were destined to be again awakened by the discovery of a fish hitherto known only to exist in the waters of the western interior."

Oxley' s Mistake. These words were written on 21st September, and, two days afterwards, a study of the formation of the surrounding country led Oxley to conclude that, geographically, there were no reasons why the belief in his theory of this "interior river" should not be found correct. On that date he wrote:-"I felt a decided conviction in my mind that there was no natural barrier intervening between the point at which we stood and the western interior, and that conse- quently the stream of this river was the channel to convey these western waters to the sea." It seems quite a coincidence that the man whose later exploring work was to give this theory its death blow was Oxley's fellow explorer in this expedition. It was three years later that Allan Cunningham's discovery of the Darling Downs, and the range country surrounding them, made any further belief in a connection between the stream of the Brisbane and the interior waters of lower New South Wales practically impossible.. As the voyagers descended the river on their way back to the open bay, they climbed an elevation which they named Belle Vue Mountain. Thence they could clearly see the peak of rising in the distance southwards. Oxley returned to the river entrance on 24th September. Arriving there late in the afternoon, the party reached the vessel early in the night. In his second journey he had advanced many miles past the Bremer River, whose name we find recorded in his journal. His Return to the Redcliffe Settlement. Upon Oxley's return to the headquarters of the colony, he did not find the condition of affairs as satisfactory as he might naturally have expected. In the beginning, according to the journal, Captain Miller had "appeared highly pleased" with the location at first chosen at Redcliffe Point. But general discontent with the situation seems to have arisen and increased within a very short period. The Commandant fancied that the place was unhealthy, and predicted that "if they remained much longer they would all die off." It is probable, however, that the depredations of the blacks and the dangers arising from their being found in such great numbers 39 in the surrounding neighbourhood had more to do with the decision to change the site of the settlement.

Change of Site. The actual reasons conducing to the alteration of their plans, in any case, only indirectly affect the main issue. Oxley appears to have fallen in readily with Miller's opinion, and evidently lost no time in "seeking fresh fields and pastures new." The buildings were handed over as a present to the natives of the place, who emphasised their lack of appreciation of the gift bestowed upon them by namthg the vacant dwellings "Umpie bong," or dead houses. The original inhabitants evidently appreciated the advantages of civilisation as little as Captain Miller and his party admired Redcliffe Point as a position for the settlement.

First Settlement in Brisbane. The second site selected by Oxley was some miles up the river. It is believed that the first landing was made at a point close to the spot where the Custom House now stands. It was thus not many yards distant from the line which Queen Street now follows. But the first centre of activity was a little further up the river, and it was close to the position of the Victoria Bridge that the chief buildings of the settlement soon began to arise. Some of these structures still exist, although generally as forming part of larger edifices. This is found in the case of the Government Stores building, opposite the Land and Survey Offices in William Street. The ground floor of this building was begun almost immediately, a commencement being probably made by the end of 1824. It was not, however, completed until 1829, in Logan's time. The lower part of the present structure belongs to the period of first settle' ment. Meantime, Captain Miller had been recalled and Captain Bishop appointed as Commandant. The combined terms of office of these two heads of the colony covered a period of about twelve months. An important event at this time was the visit to the settlement made by Governor Brisbane and a number of Government officials- the Chief Justice, Captain John Macarthur (famous in Sydney's history), and Francis Stephen. Chief Justice Forbes wished the name of "Edenglassie" to be given to the place. Oxley favoured the name'by which it ultimately became known, whilst the Governor, doubtless, expressed approval of the latter's choice. Shortly after, Oxley returned to Sydney. As an active agent there, he drops out of Brisbane's history. His constitution had been undermined by the hardships of his frequent exploring journeys, and he died, not long afterwards, at the age of 47. 40 A

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CHAPTER VI. Events in Other Parts of Australia contemporary with the Founding of Brisbane. At the period centring round 1824 little interior exploration had taken place in Australia outside the present boundaries of New South Wales. Tasmania and Victoria were still outlying territo ries of that State, bearing then the names of Van Diemen's Land and Port Phillip respectively. When Brisbane was founded, Sydney had already been in existence nearly forty years, and had been successively under six different rulers, of whom Governor Brisbane was the officer in command in 1824. The present name of the northern capital constitutes a permanent record of this Governor's visit to the settlement at the time of its foundation. Explo ring Work Southward before 1824. Much work had naturally been done in the way of exploration around Sydney itself before the year menttioned, and the efforts of men like Oxley, Evans, and Allan Cunningham had opened up immense stretches of new country, westward toward the Lachlan and northward to the Liverpool Plains and the Namoi, so that, by the end of 1821, as Charles R. Long points out, "the colony extended 400 miles inland and three hundred miles from north to south.,, Inland exploration, for some years after this date, appeared to advance more in a southward direction, and in 1823 it reached as far as the Murrumbidgee River and the Monaro Plains. Hume and Hovell. In 1824 Hume and Hovell set out to explore the country between the Murrumbidgee and the south coast of Port Phillip, towards Hobson's Bay. They discovered the Upper Murray and named it the Hume- a name still found on some Australian maps. Crossing this river near the place where the town of Albury at the present time stands, they proceeded on their way southward. They next come upon the most important river which is found inside north-eastern Victoria and which is now called the Goulburn, finally reaching the southern coast, near the present site of Geelong, on the 17th December, 1824. The date of the arrival of Hume's party at the point just mentioned coincides almost exactly with the time when the first work began in the building of Brisbane. Colonial expansion was thus going on rapidly, and hence- forward it was destined to advance at a still more rapid rate. Progress in Tasmania. Outside New South Wales proper, Tasmania was-apart from Norfolk Island-the only place in Australia where settlement had made any progress before this time. The work carried on here 41 before 1824 will be elsewhere referred to, but regarding the relation of historical events in the southern island to Brisbane's history, we may note that almost in the same year as the foundation of our capital in Moreton Bay, Tasmania was already so far advanced as to obtain practical separation from New South Wales. For Brisbane settlement was not begun until the closing days of 124, whilst Tasmania-then Van Diemen's Land-became a separate colony in 1825. 1? The other Australian colonies, or States of to-day-as need scarcely be said-were not in existence at that time. Commandant Logan and the Founding of Brisbane. The greater part of the permanent buildings forming the penal settlement at Brisbane was constructed during the rule of Logan, who came third on the list of Commandants, after Captains Miller and Bishop. Captain Logan remained in control from 1825 to 1830. In the latter year he was killed by the blacks, according to the common report. The period of his rule is regarded as the darkest in the history of the Brisbane settlement. Logan has been con- demned for the excessive severity shown during his period of office. Judged by modern standards, his treatment of criminals was extremely severe, yet his methods seem to have been only an, exaggerated form of those in general use in his time. His treat- ment of prisoners under his charge did awaken a certain amount of protest. Governor Darling, who was the ruling power in New South Wales in Logan' s time, is not regarded as having been a model of mildness , but is said to have been "a man of cruel propensities." Whilst even he seems to have considered Logan's methods severe to excess , his idea of modifying this severity will appear to us now peculiar enough, since he ordered that henceforth "no Commandant should command more than 100 lashes to be given in one day." This limitation in the number of lashes is also significant in itself, as showing the extreme measures to which superior officers might be tempted to resort. Days of the Lash. Various causes indeed might easily conduce to the abuses of power which are said to have occurred. It must be remem- bered that the convict prisoners here were mostly of the worst and most desperate class. That the terror often inspired by them was not without good reason, is very clearly shown in the subsequent history of Logan himself. Though the report was that he was killed by the blacks, it is believed by many that the murder was carried out at the instigation of convicts, who chose this method of taking revenge . Others say that convicts themselves murdered him. But during his period' of command Logan's severest critics will scarcely deny his vigour and energy in carrying on his 42 enterprises, both within the settlement and outside of its boundaries. Though difficulties of all kinds beset his path, he succeeded in showing substantial results in connection with the works carried on and completed at the headquarters of the colony. Prison labour was often both inefficient and ineffective. Mistakes of all kinds were made, and much of the work was badly done, but the ground storey of the Government Stores building, still in existence, is proof that there must have been some among the prison artificers who understood their business. One great draw- back, as far as the success of the work„ was concerned, was found in the ignorance and incompetence of the men who were placed in charge of the labourers. It was, in such circumstances, only a natural consequence that frequent bungling should lead to frequent failure in the results of work undertaken. This state of things continued to exist, in a more or less acute form, until Andrew Petrie's arrival in the colony in 1837. Neither was the mismanagement, spoken of, confined to building work. Agricultural efforts were also in many cases unsuc- cessful. One farming overseer caused dressed rice to be planted as seed, and when the crop naturally failed, he pronounced the soil unsuita a for rice growing. Such an atmosphere of incompetence continually surrounding him must have proved particularly galling to a man of the character and energy which Logan certainly possessed. Buildings of the Settlement. But, in spite of difficulties, the necessary prison buildings and the official residences forming the settlement were constructed in course of time. These were dotted about in the bush, with tracks to form the necessary means of communication between the various parts of the colony. General Outlines of the Settlement. Naturally, we must be careful to avoid supposing that the remotest approach to anything like the present uniformity of arrangements existed at that time. Structures of various kinds were soon constructed in all directions. Where they were comparatively compact it was only from motives of convenience or from con- siderations of safety. The nearest approach to uniformity of position was in the line of buildings along or near the river bank, extending from Government House at the eastern end to the doctor's residence at the western side, past the hospital (on the present North Quay). Queen Street in 1825-30. The track, which was the forerunner of Queen Street, was not at first straight, but in parts curved or winding, following the line of least resistance, that is, the lower ground from the landing place at our Customs House in a south-westerly direction. The track from 43 the landing place led first towards lower Eagle Street, then bent westward towards Adelaide Street, thus in a curving line, skirting the site of our General Post Office (then something of a hill), and coming out into Queen Street a little south of Edward Street. When Brisbane was surveyed in 1840, the winding track was straightened out and made the street of to-day, at least in form and direction. Its southern end, towards the bridge, is in the same line as the track in the early times. A punt across the creek, near the corner of Queen Street and Creek Street, formed the first means of communication, though a footbridge for passengers was built in the following years. The creek, which there gave the name to Creek Street, must have been of considerable size. In the later years of the prison period there was a garden, belonging to the Petrie dwelling, extending along the river to the present ferry and reaching back to Eagle Street. Petrie's house stood at the corner of Wharf Street and Queen Street, nearly opposite the Custom House. The colony, however, had been many years in existence before any such improvements at this place had been carried out. Penal Establishments. The spot on which our G.P.O. now stands was occupied by the "factory," or penal establishment, for female convicts. In 1837 a separate station was formed for them some way down the river and named Eagle Farm. Here they cultivated the ground, and apparently helped also to construct roads. Those composing the worst class of prisoners were sent here, and evidently given the roughest work. It is said that much of the work done in the construction of the road along the river bank at was done by the female convicts. These, belonging as they did to the worst class of prisoners, were not likely to have feelings very refined. Yet it was characteristic of the rough and ready methods of the time that female prisoners should be employed in this heavy labour, evidently because their prison buildings were close at hand. The barracks for male prisoners stood in the neighbourhood of the old Town Hall and the establishment of Allan and Stark, whilst toward the river were the buildings for the officials, extend- ing from Queen Street, at the present Victoria Bridge, eastwards, and between George and William Streets toward the Houses of Parliament site. The block bordering in Queen Street was taken up by the military barracks, whilst beyond, where the Government Printing Office now is, Government House stood, occupied by the Com- mandant of the settlement. There was a large garden laid out near this building, though lying chiefly eastward along the river bank, and in the direction of the place where the works of the Electric Light Company are built. 44 The Commissariat Store lay almost exactly in front of Govern- ment House, across William Street, and the wharf for the ferry to South Brisbane was below this building. By 1842 a considerable areaof SouthB risbanehad been surveyed,though the river bank portion was at first left open and was then named Stanley Quay. Government House at this period was an unpretentious building, with few claims to elegance or grandeur. A consideration of the general circumstances then existing at the Brisbane settle' ment tends to strengthen the conviction that the rise or fall of the colony in the north was a matter of little interest to the people in Sydney, or even to the governing powers therc. It is probable that they could have received the news of its total extinction with comparative equanimity.

The Exploring Work of Commandant Logan. Leaving out of question the traditional character of Logan-as merciless in exercising prison discipline-there can be little question that, as an administrator and explorer, he was one of the most remarkable men of his time in New South Wales. It was really Logan who was the first to begin to "found a State" in the section of it named Moreton Bay. He could scarcely have been more than a few months in the northern colony before he began to look beyond his prison environ' ment and to enquire into the character and possibilities of the regions outside and round about. Consequently, his name is closely connected with the names of Lockyer and Cunningham, to whose work reference will be made in due course. He had, in one way, the advantage of either of these men, in that officially he possessed the power to extend settlement outside the strict limits of the prison colony. It will be seen that it was not very long before he commenced to exercise this power, and that with very important results. His establishment of lime,burning works at Limestone Hills led, ultimately, to the rise of the town of Ipswich.

Lockyer' s Boat Excursion in 1825. Before Logan had time to take up any exploring work outside his central activities, Major Lockyer had already made an important beginning by attempting to carry out Oxley's work further, in the exploration of the higher reaches of the Brisbane River. In 1825 Lockyer made an extended trip in that direction, and, according to the statement made in his journal, advanced about 100 miles past the mouth of the Bremer River. Though a description of the country through which he passed is given in most favourable terms, his account, as a whole, is somewhat vague in character. Allan Cunningham laments Lockyer's failure to provide himself with the required instruments for the determination of the position of the several stations-refraining (as he tells us), for this reason, from making any official use of Lockyer's account of his discoveries- 45 The latter rowed up the river for eighteen days, though his progress was much hindered by . He refers to the number of large streams which run down from the Brisbane Mountain, and he goes on to state, in reference to the furthest point of his journey, that "the Brisbane certainly terminates here as a river." One of his conclusions is remarkable, though plainly founded on a popular theory of the time. To this theory reference has already been made in the account given by Oxley as to the Brisbane River's origin. "I think it very probable," writes Lockyer, "that the large swamp into which the river at Bathurst loses itself occasionally overflows, and is the cause of the tremendous floods which at times take place in the Brisbane River." The statement, here made, forms a kind of criterion in forming a judgment as to the extent of the general geographical knowledge of that time. His mention of three considerable streams flowing into the main river insured, however, the organisation of fresh attempts to explore its course. Lockyer reckoned the length of the distance he travelled upstream to be about 150 miles from its starting point at Brisbane. Logan accompanied this explorer on a second journey, and on this occasion the was located and named. The Bremer River had been named by Oxley, though in Logan's journal of 1827 he refers to it as "the left branch," i.e., of the main stream. Logan 's Explorations in South -Eastern Moreton Bay. After various journeys southward along the coastline, the Commandant in 1826 discovered the river now named after him. By him it was called the Darling, from the name of the Governor. It was about this time, also, that the discovery was made that a strait divided Stradbroke from the mainland and formed a sea passage southwards. Logan's next journey, in 1827, was undertaken with a view to heading the waters of the and finding the most direct route from Mount Warning to the Tweed. This expedition was the chief one which Logan accomplished alone. Though not successful in carrying out all he had set himself to do, his work at this time was highly important, in that he gained a knowledge of the southern ,district as a whole and learned much as to its possibilities. Of these latter he formed a very high opinion, and later events there proved his judgment to be correct. Between 7th and 22nd July he travelled over much country, hitherto absolutely unknown. His route lay from Brisbane southwards, first through Limestone Hills (Ipswich), and then south-eastward, by the upper waters of the Logan River. Traversing much mountainous country round this neighbourhood, he was not successful in accomplishing the main object of his journey, and finally turned north again, though along a Le of country not far from the coast. He crossed the slogan 46 River nearer its mouth , and thence made his way by Cooper's Plains back to the sett lement.

His Second Journey Southward. In the following year, 1828, the Commandant is found accom- panying Allan Cunningham on his journey, when the latter set out to find, if possible, the eastern end of the pass or "gap" on the range, the western end of which-on the Downs-he had already discoveredin the previousyear. Though this expedition was also unsuccessful as regards its main purpose, the knowledge of the country lying toward the ranges was considerably increased. Logan proved himself the most energetic of the party in facing the exploration of difficult tracts of country. During this journey the travellers advanced as far as Mount Lindesay, the great outstanding peak of the range south- ward. Logan alone of the party was successful in climbing this peak to its summit-a feat in itself demanding both energy and courage for its accomplishment. Travelling north-westward from this point, they reached country not many miles distant from the part of the range where they knew the eastern end of the pass must emerge, but dense scrub blocked their path and they were obliged to turn away toward the north-east and the Logan River. The Commandant was now anxious to return to headquarters, and presently proceeded thither, whilst Cunningham immediately began to make preparations for a fresh journey "gap"-wards.

His Last Journey. Logan's last journey, in 1830, was undertaken for the purpose of still further examining the upper Brisbane River, so that he might complete a geographical chart of the districts he had explored. Advancing up the river as far as the neighbourhood of Mount Brisbane, he made excursions into the country lying around the point where the Stanley joins the main stream. On the 17th October he sent his party back to a camping place on the return route, whilst he himself, unaccompanied, started off with some special object in view in the direction of Mount Irwin (Beppo). None of his party ever saw him alive after that time. The true version of the story of his death by violence will probably never be known. Logan 's Character. In view of the many adverse comments , so frequently passed on Logan's character, it seems but just to his memory to quote some of the statements made regarding him by his reputable contem- poraries. "The Australian," of November, 1830, writes as follows: "Captain Logan, though severely strict, was, on the whole, a well 47 disposed man, a man disposed to do impartial justice." Wentworth was editor of this journal. In the same month of 1830 an official statement, published "by His Excellency's command," contains the following passage concerning him:-"His (Logan's) life was devoted to the public service. Professionally, he possessed those qualities which dis- tinguished the best officers; and in the conduct of an extensive public establishment, his services were highly important to the colony. The Governor is gratified in expressing his sentiments of Logan's character and services." The Latin proverb which urges us to "listen to the version of the other side" in argument, here seems to be a maxim very much to the point, if we wish to form a true judgment upon the character of this man, who has been, perhaps, the most severely criticised of all among the notables of early Moreton Bay.

CHAPTER VII. Allan Cunningham in Moreton Bay. Although the rush of "free" settlement towards the north was yet many years in the future-since it only began in 1840- nevertheless, the work which made possible such settlement on any extended scale was begun in Logan's time. Cunningham's dis- covery of the Gap in 1827 has been already mentioned, but no account of the course of Moreton Bay history would be complete without a sketch of the successful labour of this enthusiastic explorer. He had already done much exploring work in New South Wales and other parts of Australia. In 1823 he had found a practicable route into the Liverpool Plains, one of the richest districts of that State. These plains lie in the neighbourhood of the town of Tamworth. Cunningham's connection with Moreton Bay explora- tion first began in the following year. In 1824 he accompanied Oxley northwards, and a survey of the Brisbane River was made by them up as far as the river remained navigable for small boats. It was, however, not until 1827 that he began the first of those final journeys of exploration, whose great results for our State become clearer with the lapse of time . He left the Upper Hunter at-the end of April, and travelling northward into new country, first discovered the Gwydir River. Proceeding further, he found another river, which he named the Dumaresq (Severn), eventually emerging in the region to which he gave the name of the Darling Downs. His enthusiastic praise of these fertile stretches' of country concludes with a very practical statement regarding them. "They constitute," he says, "a sound and valuable sheep pasture." 48 Discovery of the "Gap." After his discovery of the Downs, the next problem awaiting solution was that of finding means of communication between the Downs district and Moreton Bay. On a close inspection of the country eastward he discovered a cup-like depression on the range, lying between two outstanding peaks. Noting carefully its exact position, and satisfied with these results for the time, he began his journey homeward. This expedition took up altogether only thirteen weeks. In the following year Cunningham set out for Brisbane with the intention of trying to solve the problem of finding a route by which the Downs could be reached from Moreton Bay. His first attempt, made in company with Commandant Logan, was unsuc- cessful, but on making a fresh attempt from another direction shortly afterwards he finally accomplished his purpose. On approaching an opening in the range, which he judged to be the seaward end of the depression that he had noted the previous year from the Downs, he sent on one of his men to climb the heights above the spot and to view the country beyond. This man returned with the news that he had recognised the Darling Downs country, lying westward from the range. His scout viewed the western country on 24th August, and on the following day Cunningham and his party moved up into the gap between the peaks. "We soon found ourselves," he writes, "in the highest part of the pass, having ascertained the extent of the difficult part not to exceed 400 yards." The Darling Downs lay beyond the mouth of the pass, from which they emerged on 25th August, 1828. Thus again did Cunningham, with comparative ease and rapidity, bring his under- taking to a successful issue.

Cunningham 's Map of Moreton Bay. It is an interesting fact that the explorer has left behind him a sketch map of the whole of the Moreton Bay district, and the line of his route toward the range from the western side. This sketch, beginning from Mount Lindesay on the south, shows the country northward almost as far as the latitude of the present town of , though marking only the outline of the coastal country so far north. Farther south his sketch extends westward so as to include the ranges and part of the plains beyond. His map gives a good idea of the extent to which the whole district had been explored in 1829. It is interesting to note that he himself named the opening which he discovered, "The Pass," and marks it so in his map. He marks also Canning Downs, and the peaks north and south of the gap, Mount Cordeaux and Mount Mitchell The district which he explored in 1829, round the head waters of the Brisbane River, is outlined as well. This important map, which bears on it the initials of the explorer, is in the custody of the 49 officials connected with the Department of the Queensland Surveyor-General. A copy of it is here shown.

Cunningham 's Closing Years: His Personal Character. After a visit to Norfolk Island, Cunningham in 1831 sailed for England, where he remained five years. He returned to Sydney at the end of that time with the appointment of Colonial Botanist, but he resigned the office in a few months. It is said that he refused to superintend the growth of vegetables for the Govern- ment officials. He had not undertaken to do that as part of his work. During his journeys he had frequently suffered from illness, and probably broken down in constitution by the many hardships necessarily attending his work, he died in Sydney at the com- paratively early age of 48. His name should be held in honourable remembrance by for all time. His character was marked by kindliness and benevolence, and his thoughtfulness for othlrs' welfare is well exemplified in his custom of carrying with him a quantity of peach stones wherever he travelled, and of planting these for the benefit of those who should follow his route in after years. Whatever we may think of the practical utility of his action, there can he no doubt of the kindliness of spirit which that action displayed. In his dealings with the natives "his humanity was equalled by his courage," whilst his enthusiasm and perse- verance in his chosen work are worthy of all praise. His life and work seem to have fallen somewhat into the background , as regards their place in Australian history. Possibly he lacked the capacity for blowing his own trumpet loudly enough-a faculty well developed by some of his compeers. In practical results accom- plished few explorers have excelled him, though his travels were generally devoid of those startling incidents which helped other men to win fame. Importance of His Work. There is little doubt that Coote 's estimate of him is correct, when he virtually says that the effect of Cunningham 's discove ries was to change the whole history of Moreton Bay. The rapid spread of settlement westward, and the opening of communication between the Downs and Bri sbane, did more to block Earl Grey's attempts at forming a second penal colony on the Bri sbane River than all the effort s of the anti-tran sportationists. It was these things also which hastened " Separation " an d the establishment of the new State . Only the growth of population and the development of natural resources could make "Separation" possible, an d these results were in a great degree produced by Cunningham's dis- coveries , directly or indirectly. This explorer accomplished for Moreton Bay much the same as what was done for New South Wales by Wentworth and his party, in their discovery of a route across the Blue Mountains to 50 1

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ALLAN CUNNINGHAM'S MAP OF MORETON BAY DISTRICT ( 1829). By permission of the Su rv eyor-General of, Queensland. This is a blank page

the tableland beyond. It is very much owing to his work that convictism never gained any extensive place n Queensland's history, as it is also largely due to his efforts that ou. State so early began that course of rapid growth and development which has made Brisbane what it is to-day.

Logan 's Successors. Logan was succeeded by Captain Clunie, whose period of office was marked by a much milder rule than that of his predecessor. None of the Commandants following Logan, however, showed the enthusiasm for fresh discoveries, which had characterised him during his term of power. Commandant Clunie had the reputation of maintaining good discipline without resorting to those measures of extreme severity, which had, no doubt, been too much in evidence during Logan's reign. When the Quaker missionaries , Messrs. Backhouse and Walker, visited the Brisbane penal settlement in 1836, in Captain Fyans' time, they did not pass any severe criticism on the general condition of affairs there. They complain, it is true, of bad language used by officials, and comment on the general scarcity of Bibles among the population; but they do not note anything appearing to savour of excessive cruelty, except perhaps the treadmill. It is not unlikely that flogging operations were suspended during the stay of the missiona ries. But these visitors refer in scathing terms to the state of affairs on board a vessel transporting convicts to Moreton Bay. "We had another interview with the prisoners," G. W. Walker writes, "whose condition is simply deplorable. Their emaciated, pallid faces bear sufficient evidence to their sufferings." Views of Walker on the Treadmi ll. With reference to the treadmill, he remarks that it is "generally worked by 25 prisoners at a time, but when it is used as a special punishment , sixteen prisoners are kept upon it for fourteen hours, with only the interval of release afforded by four being off at a time in succession . They feel this very irksome at first." This seems quite a probable result under the circumstances. It should be noted that the treadmill just referred to was not used merely as an instrument of punishment. As a matter of fact, this machine , for a somewhat lengthened period, supplied the moving power for the flour mill of the colony. It was not at first built with the intention of so using it. A windmill had been constructed for grinding the maize meal, chie fly used by the prisoners . This was done about 1829. The building itself , standing then out in the bush, is still with us-transformed into the Observatory. But though the usual "arms" and "sails" were constructed so that the wind might supply the motive force 51 for the working of the mill, it soon became evident that there was some serious fault in the machinery. There was no one in the settlement sufficiently skilled to remedy the defects, whose results were to be seen only too plainly; and after many unavailing efforts, attempts to improve matters were abandoned, and the treadmill was utilised as the motive force. Hence it came to pass that the convicts, literally indeed, "earned their bread." It is perhaps scarcely necessary to state that those who were employed in the labour of driving the mill, when in use for grinding purposes, were not forced to the same excessive efforts as those who were sent to the treadmill as a punishment.

Andrew Petrie. These methods of grinding corn-human and inhuman at the same rime-continued until the arrival of Andrew Petrie at Brisbane in 1837. Apparently the settlement officers had taken no steps to secure properly skilled men for their work during the thirteen years of the Colony's existence. The defects of the windmill were speedily remedied by the newly-arrived foreman of works, and during the remainder of the comparatively brief period of the penal settlement's continuance the prisoners were relieved from this kind of toil. Petrie, who was a man of capacity and energy, long held a prominent place in the public life of Brisbane, residing there until his death in 1872. He was one of the few men who showed enthusiasm in the work of exploration during the period from Logan's death, in 1830, until the period of "free" settlement after 1840. It is true that there was some exploring work done around Brisbane in the course of the ten years just referred to, but nothing was organised on any large scale. Andrew Petrie was one of the most energetic in pushing out into fresh fields.

Exploration of Major Cotton and Andrew Pet rie round Oxley Creek (1837) Shortly after Major Cotton's appointment to the office of Com- mandant at Moreton Bay, a visit of inspection was made by him to the Limestone district. He was accompanied by Andrew Petrie on the trip, and, when the business at this place was transacted, Petrie proposed that the return to the settlement should be made overland. The party had arrived by the river route. The journey by land would bring them first to the new Government sheep station at Redbank, and thence they should proceed by Oxley Creek, visiting some sawmill works which had been established in the latter neighbourhood. From that place they intended to return to a spot on the river bank, where they would meet the rowing boats again. 52 The travellers, unfortunately, became "bushed" between Oxley Creek and the main stream. On the third day of their wanderings they reached a fairly high hill, and this Petrie climbed in order to reconnoitre and find their bearings if possible. He was successful in locating the direction of the river from this high position, and thus the party were able to reach the banks of the main stream, though they came upon it near its mouth. This hill, which he climbed on this occasion, was afterwards named Mount Petrie. Another eminence beyond this was also named after Major Cotton. In 1838, Petrie set out on an expedition up the coast country, chiefly for the purpose of discovering new specimens of timber or of any hitherto unknown plants. He reached the and penetrated into the bunya pine country. Bunya Country. The Bunya Range farther inland has taken its name from this tree. Its fruit was a favourite food of the native blacks, but it ripened only once in three years. At these periods the natives were accustomed to gather from far and near, and while the feasting on the fruit lasted a kind of truce existed among the various tribes present together. But the truce did not prevent their having, from time to time, fights by way of variety, or for the reason Stuart Russell gives, to "utilise their pugnacious propensities for securing a change of diet and providing the material for an occasional cannibal feast." It was, as may be judged, a very dangerous neigh- bourhood for white explorers to visit. Petrie was successful in penetrating this region and in bringing back with him some specimens of the bunya tree-then first known to Europeans. Some of these were planted and grown successfully. This tree was first named "Petrie's Pine," but the name was afterwards changed to the official one, "Araucaria Bidwellii." A certain Mr. Bidwell, having been successful, a few years afterwards, in securing some specimens of the tree, sent these home to the proper authorities in England. He was rewarded by having his name given to the new specimen, though it actually was Petrie's discovery.

CHAPTER VIII. Petrie and Stuart Russell at Wide Bay. Some four years after the date of Petrie's first journey north- wards he was again sent up the coast to explore further the country round Maroochy River and towards Wide Bay. On this occasion he was accompanied by Stuart Russell, whose name figures largely in the early history of Moreton Bay. Russell was looking for suit- able she, country, and hoped to find it somewhere in the vicinity 53 ANDREW PETRIE (Foreman of Works) A Noted Resident of Brisbane from 1837 until 1872. of Wide Bay. He was not successful as regards the accomplish- ment of his object, and the members of the party encountered many hardships and perils in the course of their expedition. But they yet succeeded in doing much good work in fresh fields, exploring the course of the Wide Bay (Mary) River for many miles from its mouth, and discovering the existence of the strait leading from Wide Bay into Hervey Bay. Jolliffe, who was acting as agent for John Eales, of Maitland, was with Petrie and Russell on this journey. He also wished to find sheep country, and even selected a run at this time; but his enterprise was not successful, partly owing to the country being, for the most part, unsuitable for sheep, but mainly on account of the dangers arising from the hostility of the blacks. Several of his shepherds were killed by them. The natives of the Wide Bay country had a particularly evil reputation, which, judging by the factsrecorded, they ri chly deserved. The expeditions just referred to are of special interest and importance, as they form really the first attempts at settlement northwards, past the immediate vicinity of the central colony. Not long after Russell's first journey to the Wide Bay district he set out a second time to that country. He penetrated many miles inland and discovered the Boyne River. Ultimately he reached the Burrandowan country, where he selected a sheep run. This was soon after occupied and stocked by Glover and Russell's brother. Only a few years had passed after 1842 when a line of stations , reaching from Brisbane to the Burrandowan country, was found to have come into existence. But the story of events in con- nection with these comes more properly into the account later on.

The German Mission to the Abo rigines. It was in 1837 that Dr. Lang organised a mission to the blacks of Moreton Bay. He travelled to Berlin in that year for the purpose of arranging for Lutheran missionaries to proceed to Moreton Bay and settle there. Attempts had already been made in lower New South Wales to establish missions for the same purpose, but these had proved quite unsuccessful. The Moreton Bay mission, first referred to, was established in 1838 at Kedron Brook, on the eastern part of the site of the present suburb of Nundah. This establishment was for many years called German Station- a name given also to the surrounding locality. The position was about seven miles from the centre of Brisbane. The head of the mission at German Station was an ordained Lutheran clergyman, named Schmidt, who had with him ten lay missiona ries as assistants in the work. Owing to a variety of circum- stances , the mission was insufficiently supported-in truth, "sadly neglected"-and its members were compelled to cultivate the ground in order to procure the necessaries of life. 55 Even the meagre support at first extended to the mission by the State was withdrawn after a few years. The Rev. Mr. Schmidt remained at his post until 1845, when he left for Sydney; shortly afterwards he returned to Germany.

Mission Re-organised. The lay missionaries, however, remained at the station, or in its neighbourhood, and with the aid of a small amount granted by a society in Brisbane, they carried on such religious work as was possible. Their efforts towards the moral elevation of the aboriginals were as unsuccessful here as elsewhere, and active mission work among them was ultimately given up. But the small community of evangelical settlers at German Station exercised an influence for good among the surrounding white population, and religious work was carried on as far as oppor- tunity offered. Numerous descendants of these mission workers are to be found in the district surrounding the site of the old station, and many local place-names keep in remembrance the originators of the work there. The migratory habits of the blacks were one, at least, of the reasons for the general failure in enterprises undertaken for their improvement. One can hardly blame the missionary for the want of success in his work when his flock was liable to vanish suddenly into the unknown, even there probably making only a temporary stay at any one spot. Roman Catholic missions to the blacks were also established at several places in early times, but these proved equally unsuccessful, though religious work was combined with industrial training in at least one of their mission communities. The Last Days of Convictism. Before the question of extension of settlement can be con- sidered as a whole, it is necessary first to review the facts connected with the closing of the penal era. The period of convictism ended officially in 1839, but more than a year was to elapse before all the necessary arrangements were carried out and a new system was established. The authorities at headquarters also showed no undue haste in the matter, and whilst they closed the convict establishment, it was a considerable time before they arranged for proclaiming the place a "free" settlement. A brief consideration of events during the transition period is essential to an understanding of the evolution of Moreton Bay's history. It is also important to notice, at this stage, that the first occupation of Moreton Bay territory at Brisbane had been by a penal settlement of the closest kind-a fact which had a very important result in connection with the whole country's subsequent history. 56 The convict and the free settler were so absolutely cut off, the one from the other, the separation between convict life and life outside was so complete, that the penal system remained a mere excrescence on the country's history, and never formed any con- siderable part in the national life. It should therefore be specially remarked that the convict colony, as it existed, and the city which Brisbane ultimately became, are in every important particular cut off from one another. The influence of the prison system, as it existed, upon the later history of the State will be seen to be small indeed. Poor Results of Convict Labour under Government Management. Some local advantage certainly accrued from prison labour, but even this was of much less extent than might have been reasonably expected under the circumstances. In Tasmania, for example, main roads were constructed by convict labour in the more important lines of communication through the inhabited districts. A road was formed to open a direct way from Hobart to Launceston-one linking the Tamar in the north with the Derwent at Hobart. Among shorter lines of high- way in other parts, the road extending for 45 miles from the main trunk in the midlands to St. Marys, near the north-east coast, still bears evidence of the efficient work which was done in con- structing it. The Moreton Bay settlement was certainly in existence for a much shorter period than that in Tasmania, but, even allowing for this, greater results might naturally have been looked for at Bris- bane when so much labour was available. But the labour of con- victs, and especially of those of the better class on "ticket-of-leave," constituted an important factor in connection with the work of the squatters, who began to take up land and settle thereon in 1840 and afterwards. The work done by this class of labourers, and, it may be said, in many cases done remarkably well, was mainly in connection with the limited number of sheep and cattle stations which existed during the earlier years. Extensive improvements in general conditions, even after 1840, came very slowly. A spirit of inertia, or, in plain English, of laziness, seemed to pervade the prison community before its dis- solution. The knowledge that such a dissolution was approaching would naturally tend to have that effect. The officials in Sydney also showed no undue alacrity in carrying out the working of winding up the old system and beginning a new one. The prison buildings were allowed to deteriorate, and a most dismal account is given by the general historian as tdieir deplorable condition during the "interregnum" existing between the period of the old system and that of the„ p,,,w. The various buildings left behind in the prison precincts in 1840 formed little of an asset as far as the new settlers were. concerned. 57 The Official Mind. It was truly a miserable inheritance which was handed down by convictism, rich only in possibilities. The governing bodies in Sydney acted, in most cases, as if they either wished to block settlement at Brisbane, or as if they did not care in the least what became of it, after the prisoners and prison officials had gone. The history of the next few years might, without any great exaggeration, be summed up as one marked by more or less neglect on the part of the authorities at the capital, this neglect being tempered by spasmodic bursts of blundering activity. A large share of the interest which was sometimes shown by headquarters in the concerns of Moreton Bay was inspired by the possibilities existing there of raising revenue by sale of land. Much injury to the later welfare of the city was done by methods of procedure inspired by this spirit. Mistakes again were made through gross ignorance of local conditions and of the elementary facts of colonial life. Such and such arrangements were regarded as fitting for a small township far off in the bush. Should some of the statements just made appear to savour of "captious criticism," it may be pointed out that the break-up of the penal colony began in 1839, but it was not until 1842 was well advanced that the district was declared open for settlement; nor was it until quite near the end of that year that an actual sale of land made any practical settlement possible.

Tide of Settlement. It must also be remembered, at this point, that owing to the overland route from Sydney-before this time made possible by Cunningham's discoveries-stockowners had been gradually settling inland, and newcomers had been casting eager eyes towards the coastal country behind Brisbane. But hitherto their advance east- ward had been stopped by the law of "the 50-mile limit." Thus, between 1839 and 1842, conditions locally were some- what an omalous . Convicts could now get out of the penal sett le- ment, but free settlers could not get in; the few who did secure admittan ce being still quite unable to obtain any legal rights of possession there. The position was one of practical absurdity. But even with the throwing open of the district for settlement in 1842, the difficulties of the position were by no means ended. On the contrary, it would almost seem as if they had only properly begun. Of the true condition of affairs at this time it is difficult for us now to form any clear idea. But it is essential to keep in mind the fact that the town of Brisbane was now first being officially founded . Further, as the Moreton Bay district formed part of New South Wales, there was no thought in men's minds of founding a possible "future capital of a State." Cs The Village Idea. The nearest approach which can be made to an understanding of the case may perhaps be found in Sir G. Gipps' idea in con- nection with Brisbane itself. In considering the town planning shown in the survey of the town officially made, he thought it was all merely a question of laying out the site of an Australian village. Whilst Brisbane to-day suffers so seriously from the narrowness of her leading streets, an evil now almost irremediable, it is perhaps not quite fair to condemn too severely the mistakes of our official forefathers. Gipps was by no mean s alone in his idea of the future of Brisbane as a provincial town centre in a district settlement. Cleveland 's Hopes. Another aspect of the case should also, in fairn ess, be con- sidered. At this period Brisbane was not definitely chosen even as a provincial centre. The following quotation from a well known writer will probably appear astonishing to many: "In 1860 the idea of making Cleveland the commercial port of the district had not been abandoned." By that time it must have become rather dim, yet for many years after 1842 the struggle continued between the supporters of the claims of Brisbane on the one hand and of Cleve• land on the other. Even Toorbul Point, opposite the present Bribie township, had many who favoured its claims to be a suitable site for the chief port. Dr. Lang favoured Toorbul's claims, and opposed those of Brisbane. Want of Vision. A knowledge of local conditions is seen, therefore, to be essential for the comprehension of the "point of view" of those who planned our city. Nor will it then seem so astounding to us when we learn that Governor Gipps first planned that the main streets of Brisbane should be 66 feet wide. With some difficulty, people who knew better succeeded in increasing the width to 80 feet, a still wofully inadequate extent. Another mistake-the alienation of the north river bank lands-was not directly at least the work of Gipps or his associates. These lands were not at first surveyed, and they were no doubt purposely withheld in view of possible developments. The alienation of them, which took place after- wards, was brought about either by the local business men or by the efforts of the Sydney merchants-probably by both combined. By their representations the authorities, were later on induced to put up these sites for sale. The interests of Brisbane, as they concerned the future, were of little consequence to Sydney officials, whilst the sale of the land would benefit the Treasury. Meantime a new local government had naturally come into existence. In the last few years of the existence of the penal settlement there were four Commandants successively in charge- Captain Fyans, Major Cotton, Lieut. Gravatt, and Lieut. Gorman. 59 As J. J. Knight well remarks: "The year 1839 may be truly regarded as the turning point of our career, and the starting place of our growth. It was in May of this year that the heavy cloud which hovered over the settlement for 16 long, dark years lifted, and revealed to view, not the exclusive haunt of the felon, but a home destined for the free man. In this month all criminals (with the Commandant, Major Cotton), except those who it was con- sidered necessary should remain to assist in surveying and such other Government work, were removed, Lieut. Gravatt assuming com- mand of those left. Three months later Lieut. Gorman was appointed to the position." The official report on the matter of the removal of the convicts was made in a despatch from Governor Gipps to Lord Glenelg, dated 1st July, 1839: "The whole of the women, fifty-seven in number, have been withdrawn and the male convicts reduced to ninety-four, a number which will be barely sufficient for the custody and protection of the property of the home Government, particu- larly of the flocks and herds, which cannot be advantageously disposed of until the country shall be open to settlers." In a statement of the cost of the settlement at Brisbane, also given by Mr. Knight, the following items are interesting (referring to salaries) :- Commandant ...... £300 0 0 Chaplain ...... 50 0 0 Schoolmaster 36 10 0 Here one is naturally reminded of Goldsmith's curate, "passing rich with forty pounds a year."

CHAPTER IX. Further Penal Rule. In March, 1842, the last Commandant, Lieut. Gorman, by his resignation transferred the authority to Dr. Simpson, Crown Land Commissioner, and to Captain Wickham, who was appointed Police Magistrate. Moreton Bay district and its inhabitants became thenceforth subject to the control of the civil Government in Sydney. An attempt to re-establish the convict system in 1846 came to nothing, though a few years afterwards a modified form of penal settlement came into operation for a short time. The great modifications on the older system contained in this newer form place it in quite a different category from the one first established. Nevertheless, it had an important influence indirectly in the way of affecting the history of the colony. "Separation." Before this new penal or reformatory system came into opera- tion, two questions had been agitating men's minds continuously for 60 a number of years. The one question was that of "free" immigra- tion, and the other that of separation from New South Wales, or, in other words, the question of self-government. The first question was destined to afford discussion for about ten years after con- victism ended; the second was to remain in debate about twenty years before it became definitely answered. The question of "Separation" did not come into special prominence until the "immigration" question had been at least partially settled. Separa- tion was useless without population. First Land Sale. When Brisbane was thrown open for settlement in 1842, the first land sale took place in December of that year. Though the Governor had appeared to have formed a poor idea of the future of the town, the allotments put up for sale in Sydney brought quite high prices for the time. Naturally the locality was now advertised in the most favourable terms. We are told that "there was a vigorous competition" for the town blocks, doubtless because a good many buyers knew nothing of the place. A Bush Township. How insignificant it was at first will be seen from the records of the population four years later, in 1846. North Brisbane then numbered 483, South Brisbane 346, Ipswich (the Limestone pre- viously mentioned) 103. At this period there were two clergymen. settled in the district, but as far as is known no schoolmaster or teacher. There is at least no official recognition of any such, excepting the one belonging to the penal settlement in previous years. For quite a considerable time after its "free" settlement, Bris- bane remained at the stage of the ordinary bush township, whose general characteristics were probably then very much what they are now. The long continued refusal of the central powers officially to recognise Brisbane as the chief town or port of the Moreton Bay district necessarily injured enterprise and delayed progress. Governor Gipps is usually represented as being more interested in its revenue-producing capabilities than in anything else concerning it. It is certain that its public requirements were neglected, and that money was refused for necessary works. Even such a crying need as that of a bridge over the creek at the end of Eagle Street had to be supplied by the contributions of local bodies, whilst old Government buildings, rented to residents, were allowed to fall into the last stages of decay. Currency Difficulties. There were also the difficulties of the currency and of exchange. No banking institution came into existence until 1850, when the established a branch, and, until then, financial transactions had to be managed by methods which show a 61 condition of affairs to us now almost incredible. Paper slips, which would correspond very much to our "open cheques," appear to have been the chief means of carrying on ordinary business. Actual coins were scarcely to be had. Paper documents, or "currency" notes, by being passed from hand to hand, became worn out and past use. Uncharitable people said that some made out these "notes" on the flimsiest paper possible, secretly hoping for their speedy disappearance. The scarcity of that current coinage, which is so essential to com- mercial progress in every direction, in some cases induced men with available capital to transact banking business on their own account. Such men brought, or had forwarded, from Sydney large amounts of money in gold and silver coins. Ready money was thus "sold on commission," and whilst this no doubt was a profitable under- taking for the banker, business men, under the pressing need of current cash, were glad to avail themselves of the opportunity to buy. Ordinary people, in such matters, managed as best they could. J. J. Knight records a typical case in illustration of this subject. At a Brisbane store a customer enters and asks to be supplied with "a bottle of rum, a box of caps and a-quarter pound of tobacco," producing "this 'ere order of Paddy Leslie for £1." "Well," said the storekeeper, "I'll take it, but I can't give any change." The customer begs for a "bob" with which to pay the ferryman, and the storekeeper compromises by arranging to let him have "therum and tobaccoand capsand my I.O.U.for a shilling." With this arrangement the customer was forced to be satisfied.

A Time of Stress in Moreton Bay. The surrounding pastoralists at this time were chiefly settled south and west of the Brisbane River, and the facilities for crossing it were poor in the extreme. Bullock drivers and owners of teams especially were hampered as regards communication with Brisbane itself. Business also was very depressed, and it is recorded that in 1844 "legs of mutton sold for sixpence apiece" in the streets of the town. Progress was thus manifestly slow and uncertain for some years after the first settlement. Nor had things very much improved in 1845, when the Rev. Dr. Lang first visited the district. His name at that time was famous in Sydney. It was destined to become famous in connection with Moreton Bay as well. In point of fact, his arrival marked the beginning of preparations for a fresh stage in the course of Brisbane's history. But before we come to consider the nature and importance of his work there, it is necessary to follow the course of events throughout the country as a whole, and to note their influence in establishing and extending the industries which were required to build up a State. 62 Battle about Sites. Before 1845 the land at Kangaroo Point, then classified as "country" land, was bought by a "canny Scot," Mr. Evan McKenzie, at the upset price of £1 per acre. As building allotments in Brisbane itself were sold at the rate of £100 per acre at least, the natural result followed that another township quickly sprang up across the river. South Brisbane grew on and around the site of the old Government farm, which had lain along the river opposite to the Government buildings on the north side in William Street. The census in 1846 showed South Brisbane as having a popula- tion of 346, so it is evident that then, as now, its progress did not very greatly lag behind that of the North side. The failure of the chief centre to forge ahead, as it might naturally have been expected to do under the circumstances, was doubtless due very much to the uncertainty as to its future developments. Dr. Lang deplores this dispersal of the population. "There are," he writes, "three insig- nificant and rival towns (North Brisbane, South Brisbane and Kangaroo Point) on the opposite banks of a broad river, when the whole of the population might have been concentrated into one respectable and flourishing town." As previously stated, Dr. Lang himself was also opposed to the plan of making Brisbane the capital of Moreton Bay. He objected to its being chosen on the ground of the extra distance to be travelled over in order to reach it. His view was that "it would be impracticable and impolitic to make that locality the capital of the territory." In Sydney, also, the Colonial Secretary was strongly opposed to the idea.

The Moral Aspect. With regard to the town itself at this time and its outstanding characteristics, conditions left much to be desired. The moral tone was not of the highest, as one might expect under such circum- stances. Neither church nor State had done much in the past to elevate it; indeed, in regard to both, it might be said that efforts in any such direction were not much above zero. Penal influences could not but continue to be felt for years. The police force con- sisted, to a considerable extent, of ticket of leave men, ex-convicts, transformed into guardians of the peace. Also the gentlemen squatters in that part of the territory "were occasionally, indeed, very dissipated," but it will probably be found a statement near to fact to say that Brisbane passed through the same stages of growth as a remote bush town does in any new country at any time. Steamer Services. Before 1842 means of communication and postal facilities were not at a very advanced stage. But in that year steam communication with Sydney was established by the placing of the "Shamrock" on the Sydney-Brisbane route. In a short time this "line" became permanently established. In 1846 a steamer was secured to ply 63 between Brisbane and Ipswich, though her owner lost heavily by his investment. In this year also a Custom House was established affording the residents an opportunity of contributing to the funds of the State. For some years at least, "Customs" did not constitute a paying investment. It may be noted, as a means of gauging the rate of progress in the case of Brisbane, that eighty years ago the Collector of Customs had not yet begun his work there; whilst during the six months ended 30th June, 1923, the returns show that 1,549,679 tons of shipping entered its port. Rapid Extension of Settlement. Though the progress of the town of Brisbane itself was halting and uncertain in the period extending from '42 to '45, the condition of affairs there generally, justifying the strictures of Dr. Lang, it must yet be noted that outside the central community this period was marked by enormous activity and rapid progress in the districts around. At this stage indeed in Moreton Bay's history it will be evident to an enquirer that the interests and needs of the country districts were of much greater importance than considerations which merely affected the town forming their centre. The growth of the land interests and the success of the landholders must necessarily precede any rapid progress in connection with the town. Few examples could show the truth of this more clearly than the history of the early growth and development of the country north of the Tweed. Moreton Bay Settlement. The term usually applied at first to the whole of the known part of our Southern Queensland, i.e., Moreton Bay district, con- tinued to be the general name of the country for a long period. It is true that in 1847 the various departments of territory were officially marked. Moreton Bay was defined as consisting of the country round Brisbane, north to the Mary, south to Mount Lindesay, and as far as the range westward. But as in multitudes of cases elsewhere, the popular name and the official one were not exactly of the same significance. Cases may be found where a local geographical name on the map is unknown even to the majority of the natives of the place. It will, perhaps, save confusion at the present time to define the term as here used, and to describe Moreton Bay district as the country lying north of the Tweed and south of the Burnerr River estuary, whilst westwards the term's significance extends as far as the limits of exploration. Land Settlement. The first land settlement then in Moreton Bay began south- westward, in a direct line nearly a hundred miles distant from Brisbane. The Government lands at Redbank and Cooper's Plains 64 and the Limestone (Ipswich ) settlement are not , of course, here reckonedin the account. The pastoral and agri cultural activities of the penal authorities were, in any case, never developed to a very important extent. The first free pioneers entered Moreton Bay by way of New England, and settled on the Darling Downs. First on the list is found the name of Patrick Leslie, who came north from the Cassilis district, in lower New South Wales-though north of Sydney-in the early part of 1840 . It was now that Allan Cunningham 's discoveries were to bear fruit. It may here be said that other " gaps" or passes in the main range, dividing Darling Downs and Moreton Bay, were discovered quite early in the opening years of the first settlement , but the point of importance is really this-that it was the knowledge of its being practicable to join connection with the port at Brisbane which made it possible for the pioneer even to consider the question of settling in the upland country westward . It would scarcely be an inviting prospect for the intending settler to arrange for the transpo rt of his supplies overland from Maitland , nearly 500 miles distant from the country where Warwick stands, with the still further enterprise before him of transporting his wool over the same route reversed . Patrick Leslie was the first to "sit down" permanently in the count ry now called Queensland . It is true that John Campbell had started a station on the Severn River, at the present border, a few months before Leslie arrived on the Downs, but he only remained there for a short period , making his way also thence to the same district as the other . This latter noted pioneer first made an explo ring journey to the Downs country, and was so well satisfied with what he discovered there that he immediately returned to New England and completed his prepara- tions for transporting all his stock and belongings to the Darling Downs. His brother , Walter Leslie , accompanied him. On their arrival there in the beginning of June, 1840, Leslie made another explo ring tour so that he might be able to select the best country. The description of this journey , which is recorded in his journal , is highly interesting, and the passage which explains its details is given in the w riter's own words :-" On the 6th June, leaving all stock , drays, etc., in the charge of the men, Walter Leslie , Peter Murphy and I left the Condamine by Canning Downs , Killarney, Glengallan, and Dalry mple Creeks, returning to camp on the 13th, and on the 14th moved up the river, arriving at the junction of Sandy Creek with the Condamine on the 20th. Here we made a tempora ry camp, intended for our first sheep station , and for the protection of men and stock, made one station on the north bank of the river and two others opposite-one on either side of Sandy Creek , thus giving mutual protection, and at the same time deep water between each camp. 65 "From this camp, on the 21st June, Walter, Murphy, and I struck across the Downs northward, an d crossing by (what is now) Allora, Spring Creek, King's Creek, Hodgson's Creek, and on to Gowrie and One Tree Hill, and finding nothing we like so much as Canning Downs, we returned as far as Glengallan Creek and ran the Middle Gap Creek up to Cunningham's Gap, crossed it, following a creek down to the Bremer River, intending to go on to Brisbane; but, on second thoughts, we feared going without credentials , and, recrossing the `Gap,' we returned to our camp on 1st July. We moved down some four miles to Toolburra, where we formed our head station." Such is the history of the formation of Queensland's first sheep station. Pioneer settlers quickly followed in the footsteps of Patrick Leslie, and soon the whole of the Darling Downs country was taken up and most of it occupied by squatters. A few months after Leslie's arrival, Hodgson and Elliott settled at Etonvale, and Sibley and King on the run afterwards known as Clifton. A little later John Campbell, already referred to, "sat down" at Westbrook, and Isaac at Gowrie-both places near . Stuart Russe ll, himself the historian of the first days of Downs history, about two years afterwards settled at Cecil Plains, after becoming almost a rival of the "much-enduring Ulysses" in the hardships and perils through which he passed by land and sea in his exploring work. The Gore brothers, Thane, Rolland and others had meantime settled along the lower Condamine, beyond Warwick, whilst Denis took up country in the Dalby district for Scougall, Coxen and himself. Hence arose the names of stations noted afterwards-Jimbour, Jondaryan, and Myall Creek. Jimbour, afterwards the property of Sir Joshua Bell, was for some time the farthest out station in that part of the west. This station was Leichhardt's "point of departure" when he set out for Port Essington in 1844. Across the Range Eastwards. Many of the incoming intending settlers in 1841 were not satisfied with the Darling Downs country, and preferred the richer lands lying round the Brisbane River. Among the first of these were the Bigge brothers, the Mackenzies, McConnels, the Balfours, Scot and others. As 1840 had been the birth year of the Downs as regards settlement, so 1841 was the year in which Brisbane River settlement really began. About the end of another twelve months again Stuart Russell makes reference to ten stations then established east of the range. These were situated in the country extending from Grantham to Cressbrook, and eastward toward Durundur. Of the McConnel brothers, David Cannon McConnel settled at Cressbrook, and a few years afterwards John, his brother, pur• chased Durundur from the Archers, who had been the first to take up the run. The latter station was many years afterwards "cur up" for settlement, but the Cressbrook property is still held by the 66 same family . It is one of the very few cases, if not indeed the only one, where the first owner 's family and descendants have remained in occupation of the same property until the present time. The Collins family have been in occupation of Mundoolun, in the Logan district, since 1844 , but Humphreys first selected the run there, though he owned it only for a short time . Some stations have a record of three generations extending from the earliest occup an cy. Settlement northward of Brisbane River Valley pro- ceeded rapidly henceforth , and by 1843 had already reached the country lying on headwaters of the . But it was some years later before rapid progress northwards was made beyond this line of country, and it was not until after Burnett's explorations in 1847, on the river now bearing his name, that settlement began to advance steadily toward the position of Bundaberg. Some of the earliest stations east of the range were on the line between Bri sban e and The Swamps (Toowoomba) ; and Grantham, Helidon, and Tenthill were among the well known names of stations of that time. According to Stuart Russell, Grantham was the first run to the eastward taken up. "My good friend, `Cocky' Rogers," he writes, "had charge of George Mocatta's sheep from Bathurst, and ultimately was first to cross to the easte rn side of the main range, and sat himself down on the run of Grantham." Others again claim that it was David Cannon McConnel who was first to take sheep down the range and to settle for a time at Rosewood, before going on to Cressbrook. Presently the Mackenzies settled at Kilcoy, the Bigge brothers on the Mount Brisbane property, and the Balfours, again, at Colinton, while Scot went farther north still and settled at Taromeo, not far south of the Burnett district.

The Logan District. As most of the Logan country came within the scope of the law of the "fifty mile limit," it followed that no settlement, at least on any extensive scale, could take place near the centre until the land was thrown open for settlement in 1842. The law referred to prohibited even the approach of any traveller, not to speak of an intending settler, within a radius of 50 miles round Brisbane. When it suited the Commandant's convenience he could include Ipswich (then Limestone) within the centre from which the limit of distance was reckoned. That place was a branch of the penal colony. But, as in the case of the Downs, settlement southwards pro- ceeded rapidly once the throwing open of the land for selection drew pioneers into that neighbourhood. The different nature of the country of the Logan from that of Darling Downs, and especially the comparatively wet climate of the former region, caused many intending settlers to make their way thither. Among 67 these the name of John Campbell, already referred to as a Downs pioneer, appears among the first of those who took up land on the Logan. Meston states that Campbell and Walter Smith were the first two to select runs there-the former taking up Tamrookum, towards the upper stream of the Logan and southwards, whilst the latter occupied Bromelton , not far from the site of the town of Beaudesert. Quite a number of stations quickly sprang into exist- ence in this neighbourhood, as did also the station of Beaudesert itself. The name appears in the "Government Gazette" of 1847, so that it was probably in existence some years before that time. Other well known station names are found marked on the map near at hand-Tabragalba and Nindooinbah, not many miles to the east or south-east of the position of the later town of Beaudesert; Kerry, farther south; Telemon, south of Tamrookum, which again is about fifteen miles below the centre just named. Rathdowney and Maroon, farther south, toward Mount Lindesay, were occupied some time after. Early bush life in this neighbourhood has been described in the works of Mrs. Campbell- Praed. Settlement thus very quickly reached the southern border of our present State. The centre of the district here chiefly settled upon would be almost due west of Southport's site. On the Albert River the names of Tambourine, Mundoolun and Tabragalba early came into prominence, the first occupied by Hicks but afterwards owned by Arthur Hodgson. One of the most noted of the Logan names is Collins, associated with the station of Mundoolun and others in the same direction since 1844. Westward there were Dulhunty Plains Station toward the ranges, and Rosevale on the Bremer, the first held by J. Kent and the latter by John Ross in the early days. The south-eastern part of Moreton Bay is justly called the Logan district as a general name, since no one in the first years of the Moreton Bay settlement did so much as this Commandant to gain a knowledge of its features and to make its capabilities known. It is a mistake to suppose that Logan only made a few trips south, almost in the nature of holiday excursions and as a relief from heavier duties at his central sphere of labour. In very difficult country he did extensive and important exploring work. His reputation for severity as Commandant tends to eclipse the fame to which he is justly entitled as a courageous and successful explorer. Free Gove rn ment- Local Conditions. As the previous pages contain some outline of the scope within which rapid advance in population and settlement took place in the regions around Brisbane Town, the description attempted may help the reader to realise the existing conditions in the town itself and its immediate neighbourhood. Though W. H. Traill, in his "Queenly Colony," shows that seventeen stations had been estab- lished round Brisbane and east of the range in 1844, whilst twenty- 68 seven runs had been taken up on the Downs by that date, it must still be remembered that means of communication between town and country centres were at that time very different in their nature from conditions prevailing now. Roads did not exist, except as bush tracks, and these were, in bad weather, frequently impassable. There were dangers also from wandering blacks, not to mention the sometimes encountered. Except for commercial purposes, therefore, communication between town and country was infrequent and uncertain, and even strictly business visits often involved long delays. Travelling by bullock waggon, always slow, was in many cases rendered impossible for long periods owing to flooded creeks and impassable roads. Station stores were sometimes a year or more in reaching their destination. All these conditions, and the difficulties involved, necessarily contributed to make the progress of Brisbane slow, comparatively. The expenses of a family "trip to town" were not likely to appear so frequently in the station accounts in 1844 as they are at the present day. But there were positive as well as negative difficulties in the way of progress, both in town and country. Before further considering these, however, it may be well to observe the order of time and give some account of the work of one of the most famous of explorers in early Moreton Bay, and one whose work belongs to this period.

Moreton Bay Explorer-Leichhardt. Leichhardt 's name is one of the most noted among the first explorers of Moreton Bay and north-eastern Australia generally. His name and fame have become all the more widely known on account of his unlucky fate. It might be said with some reason that the mistakes made by early explorers formed one of the great causes ensuring their permanent renown. It appears unques- tionable that the fame of men like Leichhardt, Kennedy, Burke and Wills is, in a considerable measure, kept fresh in memory owing to the disastrous ending of their undertakings. Yet it does not require much investigation into the facts of history to lead us to understand that the calamities which happened to these men were, in most cases, plainly due to mismanagement and errors of judgment. On the other hand, the names of those who, as specially trained men, accomplished long exploring journeys without loss of life and with marked success -these seem most liable to fall into oblivion. To this later class belonged men like Cunningham, the Forrests, A. C. Gregory, and many others. A brief glance at the facts of history will be sufficient to convince an enquirer that Leichhardt was not by any means well fitted for the role of explorer. He was, properly speaking, a man of science , and he did much important scientific work in the country round Brisbane. Educated as a doctor of medicine , he was by 69 choice a naturalist. Personally, he was possessed of enterprise and courage, even of daring, but this last quality, if not guided by prudence, may become a hindrance rather than a help in carrying out difficult and dangerous work. It is evident, also, that he lacked the power of managing men, the faculty whereby a leader, almost intuitively, says and does "the right thing" in dealing with his followers. Stuart Russell, a man personally acquainted with Leich- hardt, in his "Genesis of Queensland," makes no secret of his decided opinion that this explorer was deficient in the characteristics of a leader of men. Neither had he acquired that "bushcraft" and knowledge of Australian conditions generally which are essential to the equipment of the Australian explorer. The murder by blacks of Gilbert, the naturalist, on the Port Essington expedition of 1844.45 was partly due to neglect of ordinary precautions against night attacks. Leichhardt would never believe that the natives might be dangerous, unless in cases where they had been badly used. He had even lived among them for a time on several occasions and suffered no harm at their hands. But the same may be said of escaped convicts, like Bracefell and Davis, or of shipwrecked sailors like Pamphlett and Finnegan. But bar- barous murders had been frequently committed by aboriginals before this time, and the fate of the survivors from the wreck of the "Stirling Castle" gives proof of both treachery and the most savage cruelty on the part of the aborigines. So when Leichhardt invited Stuart Russell to form one of his party in his proposed expedition to Port Essington, Russell "begged to be excused." In discussing the proposal with his faithful follower, Wm. Orton-himself an experienced bushman-these two finally came to the conclusion that, in their opinion, Dr. Leichhardt was not the man suited to the work. "We had," Russell writes, "too much misgiving of the Doctor's `craft' (bushcraft) in accomplishing the undertaking, an instinctive distrust of his power of leadership and management." That such ideas were well founded was proved repeatedly by Leichhardt's subsequent experiences. On the Port Essington journey the expedition was frequently on the verge of disaster, and so long a period was taken up in carrying it out that in Sydney the explorer and all his party were, long before their return, given up for dead. His second trip in 1847 was practically a failure, and there is abundant evidence to prove that quarrelling occurred between the leader and his men. Leiichhardt's journey in 1844-45. The most part of Leichhardt 's journey in 1844 .45 was carried out beyond the recognised limits of Moreton Bay, but it may be advisable to give a brief outline of their course as the party travelled northwards. 70 Starting from Jimbour, near the site of Dalby, Leichhardt travelled first in a westerly or north-westerly direction, by Kent's Lagoon, towards Dogwood Creek. This is in the neighbourhood where the town of Miles now stands, so named from W. Miles, the owner of Dulacca run. Thence they turned in a northerly direction, passing not far from the position of Taroom. From that point they advanced northwards to the Springsure neighbourhood, and on, by the , past the Sutton and by the Burdekin to the country lying west of Port Douglas. Here they were about mid-way between the east coast and the Gulf. From this place they continued northwards to the , which they followed down until they came to another larger stream, which they named the Mitchell, after Leichhardt's celebrated co- explorer. From this river they turned west, or somewhat south-westward, though a glance at the map of that country may make us wonder why Leichhardt had not turned westward at an earlier stage. A better knowledge of local conditions would possibly explain the reasons for his choice of the route which he pursued. Privations of Leichhardt 's Party and Gilbert 's Murder by the Blacks. The party suffered severe privations in passing through the Gulf country, and it was during this period that Gilbert was killed by the blacks and two other members of the expedition severely wounded in a night attack made upon the party. These natives had been following their tracks for some time previously, seeking a favourable opportunity for exterminating the intruders without risk to themselves. In this object they very nearly succeeded. The rest of the company advanced slowly round the Gulf, and, when almost at the limit of their endurance and at the end of their resources they reached Port Essington on 17th December, 1845. They had spent nearly fifteen months on the way from Jimbour Station to that place. The general feeling of depression, caused by the explorers' supposed destruction, naturally caused a corresponding elation when their safe return emphasised the success of the work which they had undertaken. Leichhardt became the hero of the hour. He was publicly feted and invited to deliver lectures describing his travels . Poems, indeed, had been composed in his honour, when, before his return, he was supposed to be dead, and he himself tells how, in one theatre which he visited, "there was sounding in sad song my own death-elegy." The composer of the dirge, it may be said, had observed the rule of "saying nothing but good about the dead." The total value, however , of the results gained by this expedition was virtually summed up in the fact that the country watered by the Dawson, Sutton, Mackenzie, and Burdekin was 71 made known and laid open for later settlement by squatters from the south. This information was certainly of great value, though the route itself to Port Essington, explored by Leichhardt, has long been abandoned. The Second Journey. Leichhardt's second extended exploring expedition was begun in 1846, but it ended in failure. During its course his party had suffered much from sickness and privation, and the bright hopes which they had entertained in the beginning of their journey, as regards making their advent at Swan River, had been quite destroyed. The expedition reached Cecil Plains in July, 1847, as they made their way homewards again. According to Stuart Russell, the members of it at that stage formed neither a united nor a happy family. "Looks askance and silent lips courted no questioning," wrote their host. The owner of Cecil Plains openly congratulated himself that he had not con- sented to form one of the company, as Leichhardt had wished him to do, not simply because of the failure of the enterprise, but specially on account of the evident want of harmony among the members of the company. Thus he writes:-"I could not but be thankful that I had escaped the trial, which better skilled `bushcraft' and warmer working sympathies might have spared these (men)." The criticism is severe, especially when expressed by one usually so good natured as Russell, but there can be little doubt of its justice, since its writer formed his judgment at first hand. He describes what he saw before him. The same critic, later on, sums up his judgment of Leichhardt as being a cavalier "without fear," but not "without reproach." His censure manifestly implies not per- sonal baseness, but unfitness for his special work. Leichhardt 's Last Journ ey. His failure in 1846-47 had but the effect of rousing Leichhardt to fresh efforts. He immediately began to prepare with desperate energy for setting out with a fresh expedition, for the purpose of crossing the Continent from east to west. It was naturally more difficult for him now to arouse general enthusiasm in the organi- sation of a further enterprise in this direction. His recent want of success had damped the sentimental ardour of 1845. In spite of many discouragements, and with a much less complete equipment that on his previous journey, he is found again, in 1848, at Cecil Plains on his way toward the interior of the Continent. Advancing from that point, he proceeded through country already traversed by Sir Thos. Mitchell during his journey north- ward in 1845. The parry reached the neighbourhood of Mount Abundance and the Cogoon River, a district whose chief centre at the present day is the town of Roma. Here Leichhardt halted for 72 a time, and wrote and despatched an account of his journey up to the date of his arrival. This letter is headed: "Sheep Station at Mount Abundance, 4th April, 1848." It thus concludes: "We have travelled from Canning Downs to Fitzroy Downs without any accident and without interruption, with the exception of four days' stopping at Russell's (Cecil Plains) from the 3rd of March to the 3rd of April." This is the latest authentic record concerning Leichhardt's movements. He had not advanced very far past country then already known before all traces of him and of his party were lost, and none of any value have been found during subsequent years. Even the much discussed L-marked trees have only a doubtful importance in connection with the question of clearing up the mystery. It is very questionable, further, whether Leichhardt ever cut these letters which have been met with, since the explorer himself, in one of his journeys, refers to having found trees marked with the same L. Others, again, maintain that this mark has been found in a region far removed from Leichhardt 's course. The prophecy of Orton, Stuart Russell's stockman, as to the probable fate of an explorer who was "no bushman" became fulfilled but too completely. Though Leichhardt is not really one of the most important of the explorers from the standpoint of the practical utility of his work, his personality will always hold a position, more or less romantic in its nature, in Queensland's history. In spite of faults and failures, his name will stand for all time on the record of the great men of Moreton Bay.

Attempts to find Traces of the Explorer. It was some three years after Leichhardt' s final disappearance when attempts to trace his course and discover his fate began to be undertaken. Sincehe had been so long beyond the expected period in his return from Port Essington expedition, it was natural that in this present case also, people should "wait and see." The Government at length, in the beginning of 1852, had a party equipped for setting out on a journey of discovery in the direction in which the explorer was supposed to have gone. The expedition naturally made its way first to the district where Leichhardt had last been heard of-that of the Cogoon River. Here Hely, the leader of the party, obtained some information which led him to proceed thence westward, toward the Maranoa and Warrego Rivers. As he advanced he came upon the traces left by Mitchell when he went north in 1845. Hely's difficulties were increased by a drought prevailing at the time. This drought had reduced to a small water-hole a large sheet which had been described by Mitchell as "a fine reach of water full of fish." 73 Enquiries from the blacks of the country proved almost useless. Their statements were unreliable, and often contradictory. One disappointment after another was met with , until the leader of the expedition deemed it useless to advance farther, and so turned homewards again. According to Hely's recorded latitude and longitude , taken in the neighbourhood of the spot where he began to retrace his steps, his farthest point would be some 50 miles south -east of Blackall, and a considerable distance past the Warrego . He was at the river, named the Nivelle by Mitchell, at the time he decided to turn back again. On his journey he had found plain traces of camps left by the explorer's party, but he was unable to find any of the men themselves. The blacks of the neighbourhood in most cases reported that the party had been attacked by natives and massacred. Hely found an L-marked tree on more than one occasion, but nothing was discovered during his journey which was likely to lead to any definite information regarding Leichhardt 's ultimate route or ultimate fate. It may be here stated , further, that the explorers who went in search of Leichhardt 's traces discovered , in all, four L-marked camps. In the seventy years which have elapsed since Hely's journey, his successors in the same field of work have been able to accomplish little or nothing of consequence further than was accomplished by Hely himself. The year 1845 formed the central period of an era which is in many ways the most important epoch in Moreton Bay's history. It was a period of transition in almost every sphere in connection with the development of the new conditions in the " Settlement." Brisbane , under its new regime since 1842 , was by this time be- ginning to become established as the virtual centre of the wide range of settlement already made around it. But here, also, it should be observed that it was not as yet the capital of the district, and its uncertain position in this respect did much to hinder its develpoment for, as yet, quite a long period., References to the question of deciding on a capital for Moreton. Bay territory will appear in the narrative as it proceeds. Before dealing with the further development of the town interests at the centre, it seems fitting to refer more fully to the work done by Leichhardt 's contemporary and, in a sense , his co-. worker, Sir Thos. Mitchell. It is not meant to be implied that the latter regarded Leichhardt exactly as a bosom friend, since, in truth, there was considerable rivalry existing between the two men, but their work was to a great extent in the same region, and the aim in view was much the same in each case . The tracks of the two explorers sometimes crossed, and at other times were found running comparatively near to one another . In the issue of events 74 the results of the respec tive undertakings carried on by these men became, in a considerable degree, complementary to each other At the period when their labours ended the country forming the Queensland of the present time had ceased to be a "terra incognita."

Explorers of Moreton Bay-S ir T . Mitchell. Mitchell' s explora tions in Moreton Bay took place in 1845, before Leichhardt's last journey in 1848. The latter's noted expedition to Port Essington was made in '44 and '45, so that the histories of the two explorers belong to the same period. Mitchell started from Sydney as his centre, and was thus obliged to travel some hundreds of miles before he reached the confines of Moreton Bay country. His great aim was to find in the north an inland river which flowed into Carpentaria. It was thought that such a river would open up a comparatively easy line of communication between the south and the waters of the Gulf. The explorer and his party set out from Sydney toward the end of 1845. The company was large and well equipped-num- bering 29 in all-with quite a following of live stock and with much baggage. The live stock numbered 80 bullocks and 250 sheep besides horses. It was not until early in April, 1846, that they reached the Culgoa-running, approximately, about 200 miles west -south-west of the site of Goondiwindi. It forms really a branch of the lower Condamine, where its streams pass the line now forming the border between Queensland and New South Wales. Though the leader of the expedition advanced with all speed, such a journey could only be accomplished by "hastening slowly." The travellers up the Balonne, or lower Condamine, formed one of their camps in latitude 28 deg., evidently situated not far from the present site of St. George. A depot was at this time established at a place on the river named St. George's Bridge. At this place Mitchell decided to make an exploring journey with a smaller party in a nortll-westerly direction, but on finding out, by means of despatches forwarded him, that Leichhardt had returned safely from his journey to Port Essington, he decided to alter his plans and to follow for the time the course of the Balonne north- wards. In about two days' time after starting out again, the party came to another river joining the Balonne and flowing north-west. This stream they named the Maranoa, retaining the native name. South- ward from here Mitchell had described, in very favourable terms, the country and the scenery through which he had passed. But as they continued up the Balonne the country became more an d more of the usual inlan d type with grassy plains, though sometimes sandy and thickly timbered. Advancing northward they found another river near the line of latitude 27 deg. This Mitchell named the Cogoon. The country 75 in this neighbourhood was mostly poor, with much of it covered with mulga scrub. Beyond this district, however, quite a different kind of surface began to appear. The explorers at this stage came on hilly country, which rose well above the level of the sea. To mark the beginning of this change of scene, Mitchell gave to the first hill they had met with among the rivers the name of "Mount First-view." Mitchell at Cogoon River and Mt. Abundance. The increasing fertility of the country as they advanced caused him to name another height Mount Abundance. The Cogoon River and Mount Abundance will always remain associated with the names of Mitchell and Leichhardt. From the summit of Mount Abundance, Mitchell surveyed the surrounding country-grassy and fertile. He called the district Fitzroy Downs, in honour of the Governor of the time. Here the explorer first saw a specimen of the famous bottle tree, shaped "like an enormous pear-shaped turnip." As they advanced they came again to the Cogoon, and, further on, in a westerly direction, they reached another stream, which Mitchell thought would prove to be at last a river flowing north. It turned out, however, to be the Maranoa, which they had already tried to follow. Farther on, they came to the Warrego, a tributary of the Darling. The explorers now turned northward, and soon reached a country proving mountainous. One peak Mitchell named Mount Salvator, and the stream nearby he called Salvator River. The party had now advanced across the hilly country dividing the headwaters of the Warrego, flowing south, from those of the Belyando and Nogoa Rivers, headwaters of the Burdekin and Fitzroy. By 17th July they had reached Mount Mudgee ranges. The central peak of the range rises 2,247 feet above the level of the sea. A few days later they arrived at the banks of the river, after- wards known as the Belyando. It was followed by the explorer as far as latitude 22 deg., when he became convinced that its course would ultimately be to the eastern coast. Mitchell' s Supposed Discovery of a River flowing North. Mitchell now determined to make a fresh attempt to discover a river trending toward the Gulf. Accordingly, he set out in September with only two men and a native guide, together with a month's provisions. He continued his course until over a broken range, 1,800 feet above sea level, he at last came upon a country inclining toward the north-west, "in which direction a line of trees marked the course of a river." It was natural, under the circum- stances, that Mitchell's joy in the supposed complete success of his 76 object was expressed in the most glowing language . His own words describing the event form a revelation of his character, as they also give us the key to the understanding of the feeling which urged on the explorers and sustained them in hardship and suffering. "Ulloa's delight at the sight of the Pacific," he writes, "could not have surpassed mine on the occasion. From that rock the scene was so extensive as to leave us no room for doubt as to the course of the river, which, then and there revealed to me alone, seemed like a reward direct from heaven for perseverance, and as a compensation for the many sacrifices I had made, in order to solve the question of the rivers of tropical Australia." The expression of "the zeal of the enthusiast" was no doubt natural under the circumstances, but it was soon found out, on further investigation, that Mitchell's rejoicing over his success was somewhat premature. The river, upon whose banks he presently came, was not one flowing to the Gulf, but that afterwards known as the Barcoo, though it was first named the "Victoria" by the explorer. But an examination of the map of Queensland will show us that Mitchell's supposition had much to )Justify it, since the stream he discovered flows for very many miles in a decidedly north- westerly direction. After following the river's course for ten days he was forced to turn back again without having proved anything positively, but he was, nevertheless, firmly convinced that the problem of a "Gulf river" had been solved at last. The explorers now returned, without accident, to the . They reached this in October, and a few days later they arrived at Kennedy's depot there. Whilst Mitchell here revised his notes and wrote a report of his journey, he sent Kennedy southward to survey the country. In an absence of 10 days the latter reached and returned from the Mooni River, on whose banks settlers and their stations were already to be found. An incident of their return journey shows the vicissitudes of fortune to which the explorers were always exposed. The party had taken boats with them on their journey to facilitate the crossing of rivers. These boats were for many months used as tanks for the purpose of watering their stock. As they returned, however, they found the Barwon River in high flood, running a bankef. Here the boats came into use at last in affording the means of crossing the flooded river safely. Though Mitchell suffered afterwards the disappointment of finding his hopes proved false as regards the ultimate course of the Victoria River, his journey at this time was, nevertheless, one of the most successful of those made into the interior. Settlers soon began to follow in his path, and before many 77 years had passed the mountains and rivers which he discovered and named marked districts well known in Moreton Bay. Kennedy's further exploration of the Victoria River, or Barcoo, and his discovery of its true course, will be described in the account given of the expedition of the explorer to that place. From the date when Mitchell and his party set out from Kennedy's depot on the Maranoa River at latitude 26 deg. 30 min., until they returned to it again, "they had been absent four months and fifteen days, during which time they had only lost one horse, which had fallen over the cliffs of the river two days before their journey terminated." Had all other explorers used the same judgment and foresight as Mitchell, in the equipment of their expeditions and in the task of carrying them through, there would have been far fewer tragic tales of disaster to be recorded in the annals of Australian exploration.

CHAPTER XI. Development under Free Government. During the period, within which Leichhardt and Mitchell carried on their undertakings, and within which, also, the latter had early completed his work in the north, many difficulties had been meeting the settlers nearer the central town of Brisbane.. The labour problem was one of the first, and this quickly began to call for some solution, unless the progress of industry in Moreton Bay was to be retarded or destroyed. But, for some years after 1842, this problem remained a stumbling block in the way of the com- munity's advancement, and for a time there seemed to be little likelihood of its difficulties being satisfactorily solved. It will be evident to the enquirer, that at first the probable course of events would tend to raise fresh obstacles, rather than to remove those already existing. This result, to a large extent, actually followed. The Labour Problem. In the years following the throwing open for settlement the district of Moreton Bay the labour position gradually grew a more and more difficult one. The supply of a certain number of ticket-of- leave men, which had previously helped to satisfy the demand, naturally ceased after 1840. Members of the "time-expired" class would be no longer available to any extent. Accordingly, between 1842 and 1852, the public policy of the settlement, and the attitude of the central Government in Sydney towards it, were to a great extent influenced and shaped by labour considerations. Dr. Lang at Moreton Bay. It was the question, of labour which led to the visit of Dr. Lang to Moreton Bay in 1845. His works, and it may be added, his words also, were destined to influence permanently the history 78 of that place, and to leave their mark there for all future time. It was in connection with the supply of "free" labour, as opposed to the employment of ex-convicts, usual in the time past, that Dr. Lang came north to enquire into conditions in the Brisbane colony. He desired also, if possible, to make arrangements for bringing out suitable emigrants from Britain to settle there, and with this purpose in view he sailed for England in 1846. But though this was the Doctor's chief aim in his visit north in 1845, he by no means con- fined his activities to that sphere alone, but interested himself in every aspect of Colonial life. His views on men and things were always expressed with the utmost candour, and if he considered it advisable or suitable, he gave advice or uttered criticisms with all possible freedom. Further, also, being a man of no half measures in any connection, both his words and actions were characterised by energy and decision, and as he spoke on most matters "with no uncertain sound," he acted with a vigour which quickly produced results . Some of these results, however, were somewhat unpleasant for Dr. Lang himself, as will appear subsequently. It was not merely as an introducer of "free" labour that he took up immigration work. He believed in a farming population rather than in purely pastoral work in a new country, and one of his great aims was to introduce and foster the industry of cotton growing on an extensive scale. His virtual failure in this department of his work stands out significantly in considering the subject of the "cotton problem" as it is to-day. But, nevertheless, his aims as regards ultimate " closer settlement" were along the right lines, and the Darling Downs con- ditions at present, compared with that region in Leslie's time, express the development of the idea which existed in embryo in the Doctor's mind. Dr. Lang : Free Settlement versus Transportation. But whilst his views on these latter subjects were very much theoretical, and necessarily more or less indefinite at this time, his opinions on the labour question quickly influenced the actual course of circumstances around him. Most of the squatters, almost despairing of finding a labour supply of any kind, desired a revival of a modified form of "convictism." With these men Dr. Lang came quickly into conflict, and the battle was carried on, on both sides, with vigour and some bitterness. The fact that something favourable could be said on both sides of the question is proved by the circumstance that Patrick Leslie was one of the leaders on the side of convict labour, as Dr. Lang was one of the foremost on the side against it. The controversy in connection with the struggle between the "pro-convict" party and the "free labour" one went on for years, and the following extracts from "open letters" of 1851.52 show that the discussion had reached a stage when considerable acrimony began to be shown. Other points, which need not be specially 79 noted, came into the debate as it went on. A letter, written by Patrick Leslie in 1851, contains the following: "I would also remark that a very large proportion of the northern squatters do not desire separation from the middle district unless accompanied by exiles and a consequent Government expenditure." It may be stated that the name "exiles " was euphemistically given to proposed members of the later penal colony. Such were "time-expired" con- victs or "conditionally pardoned." In the same letter Leslie explains also that he himself is not a personal admirer of Dr. Lang, and to this letter the latter replies in very vigorous terms:-"I have no wish whatever to represent Mr. Patrick Leslie and his friends in any way. They may do what they please to get both convicts and Chinamen-for me, but I shall do what I can to prevent them in a regular and constitutional way. He does not like me, forsooth! I should be sorry if he did." The above extract from the doctor's reply to Leslie's letter, along with expressions used by Leslie himself, convey an idea of the controversial bitterness often manifested at this time. "Free Labour" an d "Separation." Gradually, as the contest went on, the questions of "free labour" and "separation" became so closely woven together as to make any disentanglement between them in the discussion almost impossible. Three influences in the later years of pre-separation times, were constantly at work, each pressing toward the accom- plishment of its own end. The Government at home were desirous of finding some (suitable place to which to transfer the surplus of the criminal com- munity, then confined in its gaols and reformatories. Even if such a class did not form desirable immigrants from the Colonial stand- point, it was evidently thought in London that a partially reformed criminal settler was better than no settler at all. In the second place, the squatters, generally, desired the importa- tion of convicts for several reasons. Such tabour might be plentiful and it was comparatively cheap. It was, moreover, very frequently singularly efficient, and Patrick Leslie speaks in the highest terms of the work done by his convict labourers in the early years of settlement. But there was a third class in the community-one constantly increasing in number and influence-which objected absolutely to any fresh advent of members of the criminal class, as not only evil in itself, but as certain to do irreparable injury to the colony's best interests, by tending to injure the good name of the community and to prevent the better class of settlers from choosing Moreton Bay as their place of abode. The opposition of this last class to the two former ones presently began to take more active form. Resignation of Governor Gipps. In 1846, the rule of Governor Gipps came to an end, and the 80 event caused little sorrow to the northern community. He had succeeded in making himself thoroughly unpopular, with both town and country in Moreton Bay. His despotic methods were not cal- culated to make him a favourite, whilst he enraged the "squatter" community by introducing new legislation whereby they would be obliged to purchase sections of their runs at stated periods. This was intended as a means of compelling them to contribute to the Treasury. Up to this time the pastoralists had had merely a yearly tenancy, and were only officially recognised in an indefinite kind of way. Legally a settler could obtain the right to "squat" or settle on unoccupied grazing country as a yearly tenant and at a small annual rent or license fee. The action of Gipps, in proposing the new legislation referred to, led the squatters to combine, and by means of powerful influence in Engl an d they succeeded in having an Imperial Act passed, in virtue of which they could obtain long leases of their runs, with pre-emptive rights over them, and with other advantages affecting their settlement. This was in 1846-47. His attempt at exploiting the pastoralists for the benefit of the State revenue thus proved eventually the means of securing them in their positions and in giving them far more extensive and valuable privileges than they- as a class-had ever possessed before. With all his undoubted ability, Gipps seemed able to look at Colonial questions only from the official standpoint. The question of Colonial expansion evidently occupied his attention much less than the question of raising funds for the benefit of the Treasury. Gove rn or ' Fitzroy ( 1846-1855). Sir George Gipps was succeeded by Sir Charles Fitzroy, a man of easy- going temperament , quite unlike his predecessor. As the mouthpiece of the autocratic Earl Grey, he had to assume a role unsuited to his natural character, and he soon came into collision with some of the Colonial men of note. Dr. Lang was one of these. Governor Fitzroy and Dr. Lang were indeed fated to know each other, if not intimately, at least thoroughly, before either of them had finished with Moreton Bay and its affairs. Two leading movements there hastened this result. These have already been referred to. One of them was the question of "free labour" or "immigration. In his work in this connection, Dr. Lang found himself soon in opposition, not only to leading men at Moreton Bay, but to more powerful enemies in Sydney, and even to the high command in London itself. Dr. Lang an d Immigration. In the two years which elapsed between his arrival in Britain in 1846 and the despatch of the first shipload of intending settlers to Australia, he succeeded not only in arousing interest in Colonial 81 OOOKSLA D C @L@N0Z ?0 OM C O MP ANY.

PRELIMINARY SHIP.

Mr. .-- having Purchased Sectio n- ,

or ______ilcres of Land, from the Company , and having

paid for the same, you are hereby authorised and requested to allot the said extent cf .L and rep, to him, from the Lands to be acquired bu the Conavanv. on the BRISBANE or CLARENCE

RIVERS, Cooksland, New South lYales, agreeably to the principle of allotment , of which

a,ou will be apprised.

Provisional Seeretasy.

To Mr. WILLIAM PETTIGREW, Resident Surveyor, Cooksland.

A "COUPON" IN CONNECTION WITH DR. LANG'S PROPOSED LAND SETTLEMENT SCHEME POR INTENDING SETTLERS IN MORETON BAY TERRITORY. settlement, but also in exciting against himself the animosity of both Home and Colonial State officials. The general facts con- cerning the case show both the strength and weakness of Dr . Lang's character. He pushed on his work of enlisting recruits for his army of "free" settlers with an etphusiasm evidently not always modified by prudential considerations; with a zeal also which some- times blinded him to an understanding of the views of "the other fellow." In his course of action he succeeded in antagonising the very men who should have been those to help him in his work.

Clash with the Officials. His efforts , however , had indirectly one good effect. They roused the governing powers, with Earl Grey at their head , to push on the work of sending out emigrants on their own account with all speed possible . In modem phrase , they wished to "deflate" the Doctor 's enterp rise. It thus happened that the Government ship "Art emisia " arrived in Bri sban e in 1848 with a load of passengers for the Colony, whilst Dr. Lang's first ship, the "Fortitude," did not arrive until 1849, though very early in that year. The second emigran t ship of the same line-the "Chasely"-quickly followed the "Fortitude," bringing a second supply of 225 passengers to Brisbane . The confusion in the arrangements for the new settlers, or the want of any proper preparation for their reception, was equally as marked in the case of the second vessel as it had been in that of the first. As regards Dr. Lang's "land grants" and other provisions for the newcomers' settlement, the Government refused tq recognise any claims upon them of any kind, and, we are told, "Captain Wickham was instructed that the immigrants should not be allowed to even temporarily occupy Crown lands, nor yet be supplied with Government rations." Thus J. J. Knight writes, whilst he continues, "the new arrivals were made to feel the bitter spirit which Dr. Lang had evidently excited in the minds of Earl Grey and Sir Charles Fitzroy." The "Chasely" was followed by the "Lima" late in the year, so that by this line three shiploads of immigrants , in all, were landed in Moreton Bay. "The results of the Doctor's efforts bore good fruit, for the new settlers not only supplied in part the labour that was badly needed, but they also gave a tone to the place, the result of which was immediately apparent ." As an immigration agent Dr. Lang had been decidedly successful . His three vessels had brought about 600 new settlers to Moreton Bay. Troubles of New Settlers. The arrival of so many newcomers was indeed a boon to the community, and that in several directions. The colonists were glad to gain fresh supplies of labour, but the Government still refused to acknowledge any obligation to assist the new arrivals or to do anything toward their settlement. Promises previously made to 83 them by Dr. Lang were not fulfilled, though how far he was to blame, or how far the State officials repudiated arrangements sup- posed to have been made, it is difficult or impossible now to deter- mine . Grievous mistakes were manifestly made by one of, the opposing parties or by both. Two facts at least stand out clearly. Dr. Lang, however mistaken or misled himself, acted throughout in good faith, whilst Earl Grey and his subordinate, Governor Fitzroy, even granting that they had a show of right on their side, exhibited a petty and vindictive spite in the attitude which they assumed to- ward Dr. Lang and his proteges of the "Fortitude." But though these emigrants were treated by the Government officials very meanly, their needs neglected, and the claims they put forward denied, they nevertheless soon found suitable positions in the district. They and their successors in the ships following formed some of the best class of colonists in Moreton Bay. It is well to note also that Dr. Lang continued on terms of friendly relationship with most of these men whom he was accused of misleading by "false pretences. ' Mr. Coote states this fact in his favour, though on many points he is one of Dr. Lang's severest critics. These settlers mentioned were some of his strongest supporters in his later "anti-transporta- tion" struggles with his enemies -at home and abroad. New Class of Convict. But the spirit which inspired Earl Grey is shown by his practically inciting Governor Fitzroy to encourage any of Dr. Lang.'s dissatisfied emigrants to institute a criminal action against him. Part of the animosity exhibited by Earl Grey toward Dr. Lang and his work was doubtless due to the fact that they tended to militate against his favourite plan of establishing in Moreton Bay a new reformatory system for the better class of English convicts. This new system was meant to be of quite a different character from the old one. Only " time -expired" convicts, and those supposed to have become almost quite reformed, were to be sent out, and these were to be utilised as a labour supply for the Colony. The spirit' of economy, nevertheless, was combined with the humanitarian and philanthropic spiri t, since it was enacted that in the case of these men, full freedom was not to be granted them until they had paid the price of their passage to Australia. This was valued at £20. Their moral regeneration did not, therefore, become an available asset in a materi al sense, until the sum of £20 was forthcoming. Several shiploads of these "three parts" reformed characters came to Brisbane; but the general opposition to the whole system soon brought it to a definite conclusion. This temporary revival of a modified form of transportation indirectly helped on the cause of separation. By 1848 this question had evidently been seriously considered by the Home Government, for Earl Grey-who, like Gilpin 's wife, "had a frugal mind"- in recommending a Colonial loan, advised 84 that care should be taken to keep a record of its expenditure in relation to New South Wales proper and Moreton Bay respectively, "bearing in mind the probability of a future separation of the northern from the southern district of the Colony." On this point, at least, Earl Grey and Dr. Lang found themselves to a certain extent on common ground, though for opposite reasons. But the immigration work undertaken by the latter was carried on just before there began a critical stage in the history of Moreton Bay; it also formed an important factor in the successful develop, went of the new Colony at that place. Timely Arrival of Immigrants. The shiploads of immigrants which arrived at this period reached Moreton Bay about the time when news first reached Australia of the great gold discoveries in California. Naturally there was much excitement in New South Wales, and there began an extensive exodus of gold seekers to America. The discovery of gold a year or two afterwards in the neigh- bourhood of Bathurst, and, later still, in Victoria, caused many to depart southwards, and the consequent considerable decline in population caused consternation in and around Brisbane. But the newly,arrived settlers by the "Fortitude" and the two other emigrant ships partially filled the gaps in population, and materially assisted in "carrying on" until brighter times came again.

Port Curtis Settlement. But events northward, which occurred just before the period referred to, must now be noted as being closely connected with the second transportation movement . Whilst the struggle was proceeding between the parties supporting and those opposing the renewal of convictism in Moreton Bay, the home authorities had been making their own arrangements in the matter. These latter had been forming their plans for some years before the actual arrival of the "Hashemy" convicts took place in 1849. In 1846 W. E. Gladstone appointed Colonel Barney "to carry out a plan of founding, somewhere on the north-eastern coast of Australia, a settlement on a new plan. British offenders, whose breaches of the law were regarded as having proceeded less from criminal intent than from unfortunate circumstances were to be the pioneers- reinforced by drafts of the better lass emancipists from Van Diemen's Land."

Landing of Colonel Barn ey and his Party . Colonel Barney fixed on Port Curtis, and in the early days of 1847 he set out for the north with his party to begin the founding of a separate colony. The new "settlers" for the community were not as yet in evidence. The unfortunate issue of the undertaking is well known. The vessel carrying the, leader and his party ran 85 upon a in entering the harbour, and the elaborate prepara- tions for a landing to be made in splendid style with " full uniform" and proper blowing of trumpets, ended somewhat dismally and in complete failure. The gorgeous disembarkment arranged became a mere scramble to shore. The head of the expedition displayed much energy in arranging for himself and his family to reach land as quickly as possible, whilst the rank and file of the party, by degrees, also gained a place of safety. Nothing of any consequence was done by the expedition, and though its members only reached Port Curtis in February, 1847, "peremptory orders" from Earl Grey were, brought to Colonel Barney on 10th April, instructing him to abandon the settlement. With a change of Government had come a change of policy. Barney's Point, about two miles south of Gladstone, has received its name from the expedition's chief. The anti-transportationists in this case "scored one" against their antagonists, but what was more important for Gladstone and Port Curtis, "no felons ever set foot on the new settlement." A Gove rn ment Resident at Gladstone. It was not many years before the settlement here, which was never totally abandoned after 1847, was noticed by the Colonial Government as a promising colonising sphere. In 1853 Colonel O'Connel, who had been, before this date, Commissioner of Crown Lands for the Burnett district, was chosen by the governing powers as the "first Colonial Government Resident at Gladstone." This officer, who afterwards became Sir Maurice O'Connell, K.C.M.G., was a man of the highest character, brave, dignified, and honourable, and during his subsequent career there he won the respect and esteem of the community. A Proposed Capital. But the Government in Sydney were not actuated by purely unselfish motives in planning for this extension of settlement. That the formation of a separate colony in the north was now only a question of time was becoming more and more evident. The consequent desire in Sydney was to have a new colonial capital town situated as far away as possible, especially well removed from the Northern Rivers of New South Wales. It was feared that any nearer capital would attract the inhabitants of that region to seek a connection with the new State. The desire of New South Wales was therefore to arrange matters so as to attract the line of division as far north as possible, and thus cut of the least possible extent of territory. These ideas at headquarters were certainly found favourable to business, since the land in a prospective capital was likely to acquire a factitious value-useful in the interests of the vendors. Town lots were sold at very high figures, and the upset price of suburban lots was double the amount which the reserve on lands around Brisbane had been in 1842. Though the 86 A VIEW OF BRISBANE (from Kangaroo Point Ferry) IN 1852. This is a blank page

country behind this settlement became gradually occupied, and gold was discovered there, the town's first promise was never fulfilled. But its beginning formed one of the many dangers which confronted Brisbane during the struggle so long carried on regarding the selection of a capital. "Mo re ton Bay Courier." The same year which marked the first beginning of this enter- prise at Port Curtis, 1846, formed the date of an event which roused much less excitement at the time, but which had, in some directions, more important consequences. This was the establishment of the first Brisbane newspaper, the "Moreton Bay Courier," by Mr. A. S. Lyon, who associated with himself in this enterprise another, whose name became subsequently one of the best known in Moreton Bay. This was James Swan, who, from very humble beginnings, attained to a position of the highest importance and widest influence in the new community. In later life he became the Honourable James Swan. As was natural in the circumstances, the "Courier" was begun on a small scale, both as regards the buildings occupied and the size of the newspaper itself. But this publication soon became a power in the settlement, whilst it continued to increase its size and importance with the progress of Moreton Bay. Its present position of influence and wide distribution shows that as a newspaper it "has grown with the growth" of this great city, in whose infancy itself came into being. But we must turn now to consider the further extension of the exploration work, which formed the necessary preparation for later growth and development in the life of the colony.

CHAPTER XII. Exploring journey of E. B. Kennedy to Mitche ll's Victoria River (Barcoo). After Sir Thos. Mitchell's return from his journey into the far west of Moreton Bay-that in which he believed he had dis- covered in the Victoria (Barcoo) the means of communication with the Gulf-Kennedy was sent out in 1847 to verify or disprove his claims by a further advance along that river's course. This explorer had been second in command during Mitchell's journey, completed shortly before. The first section of his journey now was through country comparatively well known. The account of Kennedy's travels may therefore begin from the point of his arrival at the Maranoa River. In a week after leaving this river he reached the Warrego, where he explored to latitude 25 deg: There its head- waters are found in the neighbourhood of Mount Playfair. This position is on a line west of the Burnett River from near its mouth. Toward the end of July, Kennedy, following his predecessor's track, had reached the Victoria River, and had begun his journey down 87 its course. On reaching Mitchell's old camping ground here, he had buried his carts and prepared for "riding down the Victoria to the Gulf with packhorses." In August, 1847, he reached Mitchell's furthe§t point on the river, latitude 24 deg. 16 min. Following its course downwards, he found it flowing presently in a S.S.W. direction, and very soon the river ceased as a flowing stream. Being now afraid to advance with all his company, he rode forward with two of his men, and in a short time the party came upon fresh river reaches further south. He brought up the rest of his company, as he hoped now to trace fully the river's course. But the supply of water become smaller as they advanced, until at a position a little past latitude 26 deg. the country became desert, and Kennedy was compelled to turn back again. From his furthest point of advance he retraced his course for thirteen miles before he reached water of any kind. His horses, also, were now starving, and no alternative remained but to turn homewards. Thus ended Mitchell's hope of having dis- covered a river whose waters reached the Gulf. It was into the region above described that A. C. Gregory penetrated in his exploring journey in 1856. As to the various names given to this river-called by Mitchell the Victoria-con- siderable confusion exists . And this is not without justification. In this connection it seems appropriate to quote a passage from the second volume of Rev. Tenison Woods' work, bearing on the question:- "The stream in question (Barcoo) has received very many names . Mitchell called it the Victoria River, but we have one already in Australia. It was also proposed to call it Cooper's Creek and the Gregory. Sturt's name, however, has been the most used, and that is open to the objection that we have here to deal with a large river, which is sometimes two miles wide. The natives call it the Barcoo, and this is the name by which it will be alluded to in this volume." As Kennedy returned, at this time, he traced the Warrego southward until its waters were lost in the desert. Like the Barcoo, and many other inland streams, the aims at a point of outlet at which it is only very occasionally that it is successful in arriving. This was one of the results of the exploration carried on at this period-the discovery of the existence of the many peculiar characteristics of Australian rivers of the interior. Kennedy's Second Journ ey. As this explorer had been comparatively successful in carrying out this expedition just described, he was selected as the leader of another exploring party-this time to travel in the regions of the far north coast. Aa the results of this expedition were com- paratively unimportant in connection with the story of Moreton Bay, Kennedy's journey at this time will be outlined only briefly 88 Tb e aim of the enterprise now undertaken was to examine the country of Cape York Peninsula as far as possible, and so learn something of its possibilities as a sphere of settlement. In April, 1848, the members of the party proceeded by sea to , situated at the degree of latitude whose line runs along the base of the peninsula. Thence they were instructed to proceed north- ward, exploring the country as fully as conditions permitted. It was arranged that the vessel accompanying them should meet them again at Port Albany, near Cape York. This was a bay at the head of the north-east coast of the peninsula. But difficulties met the expedition from the beginning of their journey, though their trouble in passing numerous swamps and crossing tidal estuaries was comparatively insignificant in extent, contrasted with the dif- ficulties and disasters which befel them at a later period on their march. Frequently, also, they were obliged literally to cut their way through the dense growth as they advanced. Both men and horses suffered extremely as they went on, and one morning the members of the party rose from their damp camping ground covered with blood. It was found that the grass was full of leeches, and these had fastened on them as they slept. After passing the swamp country and region of dense scrub, Kennedy approached the beginning of the ascent of the heights of the Great Dividing Range. Having crossed these, the party travelled in a north-westerly direction and presently came upon the bed of the Mitchell River. The heat was now intense. The store of provisions was fast failing. Little food was procurable in the country through which they passed. Consequently it was resolved to return to coast country again, though in a direction farther north. The travellers hoped to find a relief ship at Princess 's Bay, but on arrival at that place they found their hopes vain. No ship was there. The period arranged for its visit was long past. Journey to Port Albany. Nothing now remained but to make their way to Port Albany. This was the meeting place arranged with H.M.S. "Rambler." But by this time Kennedy began to realise that it was impossible to reach Cape York with all his party. He accordingly left Canon, botanist of the expedition, at Weymouth Bay, with part of the company, whilst he himself, with three men and the native, Jackey Jackey, advanced north as quickly as possible. He intended to send by sea for those left behind, immediately upon his arrival at his destination. Subsequently, owing to a serious accident which happened to one of his party, he was obliged to leave the three men behind at Shelburne Bay. He himself set out again, accompanied now by Jackey only. In the account given afterwards by Jackey concerning the disasters which led to Kennedy's death at the hands of the 89 blacks, there is recorded one of the most tragic stories in the annals of Australian exploration. On the death of his master, Jackey covered the body with brushwood, concealing it as well as possible. He then set out for Port Albany, and after many difficulties and much suffering he arrived there on 23rd December, 1848. Jackey's account of this journey, together with the story of his master's death, is one of the best known in Australian history. Of the members of the party left behind by Kennedy, it was found, by later search, that only two remained alive, Goddard and Carron.

The Explorations of Burnett -And the Discovery of the Course of the River called by his Name. By 1846 squatters had penetrated a considerable distance northwards, and had occupied, far and wide, the country as far as the latitude of Gympie and somewhat beyond that point. As in the case of the Downs, exploration and settlement advanced hand in hand. From Brisbane southward, many years before this time, Logan, by his exploring journeys, had rendered great assistance in develop- ing a fuller knowledge of the country there and in thus preparing the way for advancing settlement. But northward, the pioneers for the most part opened a way for themselves. In nearly all cases the explorer and settler were one and the same. Petrie, whose work belongs to a period nearly ten years earlier, and Burnett were two exceptionsto theordinary rule. To the advancing line of the widespread forces of earliest pioneers, Burnett's discoveries in 1847 gave an increased impetus. Some idea of the difficulties which these men were liable to encounter may be gathered from the narrative of Burnett's first journey in this new country in the previous year. After enduring great hardships, Burnett's party at this time only succeeded in advancing a comparatively short distance beyond the settled country and districts already known. This was owing to heavy and continuous rains, which ultimately compelled them to abandon their undertaking for the time and to return to Brisbane. But this expedition, undertaken and carried out in the following year by the same explorer, constitutes the event of greatest importance in connection with exploration, immediately northwards, between 1840 and 1847. The journey undertaken by Russell and Petrie in 1842, in the course of which much exploring work was done and new facts made known, had extended discovery to Wide Bay and the regions inland there. Burnett's work in 1847 formed, as it were, the complement to that of Russell and Petrie, and opened the way north as far as the latitude of Bundaberg. Burnett's official report, forwarded to headquarters in Sydney in July, 1847, seems deserving of more than a few words' notice. As the record of an event, which was of the utmost consequence 90 in its influence on the development of settlement in Moreton Bay, this report merits a prominent position in any history of that place. Burn ett gave a full account of his explorations and discoveries in the region extending from Wide Bay to the mouth of the river flowing into Hervey Bay, which was afterwards given his name. In this report the explorer writes as follows: "On the 7th (July, 1847) 1 arrived in Wide Bay, and encamped under . On the following morn ing I entered the passage between the Great Sandy Island and the mainland . Passing into Hervey's, Bay, we reached the mouth of the Boyne, being the shallow inlets of Flinders, on Sunday, the 11th. I went up the river to the southern point of the delta, formed by the two estuaries, and encamped for the night. The latitude of this point I found to be 20 deg. 45 min. "On ascending the river I found it full of shoals and available for navigation, even of small vessels, for a short distance only. On the evening of Wednesday, 14th, we got back to the delta, where we again encamped, and I spent the following day in examining the southern entrance, which I then thought the best, but on reaching the mouth at low water I was much disappointed. Every place which presented the slightest appearance of a channel was tried, and all with the same want of success. "On Friday, the 16th, I went out by the southern entrance, at the mouth of which I found that by keeping near the south point, which is rocky, there was a channel between it and the large shoal which runs out from the north point, in which (channel) we got from 10 to 12 feet within about an hour of high water. I have no doubt'that towards high water at least 10 feet may be carried through this entrance , but for further examination I had not time. "After leaving the river we pulled into a small inlet- the mouth of a creek which I did not think of sufficient importance to examine. We remained here for the night, and encamped next night on a small island at the south end of Hervey's Bay. "The two following days I was employed in examining the channel between this and the mouth of what is usually known as the Wide Bay River and taking some angles, the better to enable me to show its position. At the entrance (of the river) I found from four to six fathoms, but it shoaled when we got inside. There is, however, plenty of water for the larger coasting vessels and steamers for 20 or 25 miles up. It was not until the morning of the 23rd that we reached the limit of boat navigation, probably about 40 miles from its mouth. We returned down the river as expeditiously as possible, and on Saturday afternoon reached the mouth." Such is the main part of Burnett 's report on the exploration of these two rivers. His account evidently afforded great satis- faction to the Colonial Secretary in Sydney, and Burnett 's successful work is referred to with due appreciation and praise. 91 The official reply to Burnett's communication contains matter of permanent historic interest, and these paragraphs are quoted in full "The result of Mr. Burnett's last expedition having proved that the former of these rivers is not identical with that to which the name of the `Boyne' was originally assigned by Surveyor- General Oxley, His Excellency the Governor, in order to mark his sense of the perseverance and enterprise evinced by Mr. Burnett in the performance of his public duty on the occasions referred to, has been pleased to direct that in the maps of the Colony and other official records, the river in question in its whole course, from the Darling Downs to its junction with the sea at Hervey's Bay, shall henceforth be designated the River `Burnett.' "To the river which disembogues into Wide Bay His Excel- lency has been pleased to assign the name of 'Mary.' " It seems somewhat peculiar that in the maps showing the southern Burnett country there is still a creek marked by the name Boyne. It was Stuart Russell who gave this .name to the river with which he met during his exploring journey in 1842, when he dis- covered the sheep run afterwards known as Burrandowan. Probably the creek mentioned is considered as of too little consequence to take a place as rival to the river which flows into Port Curtis bay.

Further Settlement Northward. There is good reason for assuming that the southern fringe of what is generally known as the Burnett country began to be occupied before 1843. By this time, Borthwick and Oliver had crossed the watershed between the Brisbane and the headwaters of the river, which in later years gave the country its name. The first named squatter took up Tarong run, whilst Oliver occupied Nanango, situated not many miles away. Between this time and '47, many new stations were formed toward the north, and by the latter date, or shortly after, the ground was being broken for settle- ment as far as the country, and stations like Degilbo came into existence. Richard Jones, well known later in the political life of Moreton Bay, took up Barambah run at an early date, whilst another Jones-connected with the Sydney name-held Boonara, lying beyond. Further north still are the stations Boonbyjan, Ban Ban, Wigton, and Kilkivan. The last was in country reaching out toward Wide Bay and the town of Maryborough, which place existed in embryo from very early times. Gayndah, further inland, became the centre of a wide range of station country after 1847. But before settlement reached so far, runs such as Tabinga, Burran- dowan, Proston, and Boondooma were already in occupation. The last three mentioned lay. in the Boyne and Stuart Rivers country, first explored by Stuart Russell. Eastward, the Widgee run, occupied by the Tooths, became in after years the centre of a goldmining neighbourhood, and the 92 town of Gympie sprang there into existence. The discoveries of Burnett in the neighbourhood of the site of Bundaberg opened a point of communication further north still, in the direction of which fresh exploring pioneers could advance as the lower country became settled. The Question of the Capital of Moreton Bay. So many events are crowded into the years between 1844.49 in the histo ry of Moreton Bay that the story of central settlement seems sometimes to become submerged in the multitude of incidents to be re corded concerning the development of the surrounding count ry . The record of exploration alone , at this period, compre- hends accounts of count ry from the Seve rn and Tweed to the Gulf and Cape York. Whilst Brisbane's progress and development were being directly and indirectly influenced by all these events, occurring far and wide around it, many burning questions were exciting the people of that town itself and its neighbourhood. Besides the problems of labour, of the renewal on convictism, of —separation," and others still, the much-debated subject of the choice of a capital was for many years kept prominently 1842 to 1849 the debate continued intermittentlybefore public; attention. and Cleveland From. Ipswich, and even Toorbul Point had each advocates of its claims. The last, however, quickly dropped out of mention, but the former two worked together, for the most part, with the purpose of setting aside the claims of Brisbane as capital. That the Sydney influence was not strongly in favour of this last can be inferred from the attempt to found a town at Port Curtis, which might be made capital in due course. This was in 1853, though it might be thought that the decision of the Central Government to erect a suitable Custom House in Brisbane some years before this time formed good grounds for judging that the selection of that town was certain. The part of the community connected with the squatting interests seems usually to have opposed Brisbane's claims. This class, as a whole, supported Cleveland's pretensions, and the general idea of the aims of opponents of Brisbane was to have Cleveland made the chief port for maritime trade, with the town of Ipswich as a business centre for the trade of the interior. But, from the beginning, the fates were unkind to Cleveland in the prosecution of its plans in this direction. When Governor Gipps visited that township during a visit to the Brisbane settlement in 1842, it happened to be the period of low tide when the party were ready to land. It thus, unfortunately, came to pass that Governor Gipps and the officials with him found themselves under the necessity of wading through the mud and shallows in order to reach the shore. Such an undignified advent was no doubt galling to the pride of the Governor, whilst the incident itself was one 93 which could scarcely be regarded as favouring the claims of Cleve- land in the question of a choice of chief port. When, also, some years afterwards, Governor Fitzroy arranged for carrying out an official visit to the same place, the weather conditionsproved so exceedinglyunfavourable that the proposed visit had to be abandoned. Torrential rains fell continuously at the time, and the extensive preparations for the party's reception were rendered fruitless. Cleveland 's Disappointed Hopes. But the vacillating attitude toward the subject, so long main- tainedin Sydney,no doubt encouragedcontinued hope in the Cleveland community. At the same time, the eventual success of Brisbane's claims was, probably all along, well understood at head- quarters to be almost a certainty. In such cases, whilst discussion goes on, events frequently take definite shape of themselves. Even inside Brisbane, in its early times, a struggle for pre- dominance existed for a period between the north and south sides. At one stage South Brisbane seemed likely to be successful, but the north side soon established permanently its superior position. A record of the census-first taken in 1846-will help to give us a truer sense of proportion in judging the condition of affairs, generally, at that period in Moreton Bay. It will be found that all the exciting questions referred to were debated by only a very limited "multitude." Population of North Brisbane in 1846-483 South Brisbane „ -346 Ipswich „ -103 Rise of Ipswich. The first sale of land at Ipswich was in the later part of 1843. As a town, therefore, it is only one year younger than its neigh- bour, though the first settlement began in Logan's time, when the place was known as Limestone Hills. The settlement at this place formed, as it were, the first tentacle in the process of reaching out toward occupancy of country outside the central site. How rapid has been the development of the capital itself between the period, which has been just referred to, and the present time, may be realised to some extent when we note that the number of its population is already not far short of a quarter of a million.

CHAPTER XIII . Noted Wrecks of Early Days. Two disastrous events in connection with shipping affairs stand out so prominently in early history that they require some brief notice. The period of eleven years divides their occurrence, but theymay be for convenience notedtogether. 94 The first is the wreck of the "Stirling Castle" in 1836, on a coral reef north of Moreton Bay. The crew, with Captain Fraser, took to the boats, and owing to unfavourable winds and seas, made for the nearest land. Being cast ashore at Wide Bay, they immediately fell into the hands of the savages there and were treated by them with inhuman cruelty. Though these natives spared their lives for the time, many of the castaways were after- wards murdered by their captors, or killed by cruel treatment. Mrs. Fraser, the widow of the captain, after enduring indescribable hard- ships, at length met with an escaped convict living among the blacks. This person was named Bracefell, and by him she was shown all the kindness possible. Ultimately, she was successful by his help in teaching civilisation again. A few of the other surviving members of the crew were also rescued when the news of the disaster reached Brisbane. Escaped Convicts. The mode of action pursued at this time by the convict, Bracefell, throws a sidelight on conditions then existing in Moreton Bay. When he had conducted Mrs. Fraser to a point of safety, he himself immediately retreated again into the bush, fearing to incur the extreme penalty to which recaptured convicts were then liable. According to Stuart Russell's account, Mrs. Fraser took no steps to benefit Bracefell or to acknowledge any claims of his upon her. This man was, however, restored to civilisation in 1842 by means of a party of explorers in Wide Bay, of which party Russell. was himself a member. On the same expedition another escaped prisoner, Davis, was also rescued and brought back to the settlement. Davis had lived many years among the blacks of Wide Bay, and afterwards he became a noted personality in Brisbane. His "native" name was Duramboi, and probably there was no European living at the time who knew more of the aboriginals and their language, customs, and beliefs. But this was a subject he had little desire to enlarge upon, and it was only rarely that he mentioned his aboriginal experiences, and then but to a very few. When Stuart Russell and his com- panions presented these two, Bracefell and Davis, with a pair of boots each, in preparation for their return to the society of white men, it was some time before they were successful in walking in them. For a considerable period they "wore" them by carrying them in their hands. After so long a period spent in savage con- ditions, time was required to re-learn civilised ways, and even the proper use of their native tongue. A peculiar feature in the case of Davis, or "Duramboi," was that at the period of his return to a place among English-speaking people he could still repeat some parts of Scottish songs which he had learnt as a boy, whilst he had almost entirely forgotten how to express his meaning in English. He required time to learn again the use of his own lan guage, 95 just as he had to re-learn the practice of using the footwear of civilisation. The services of men of this class were often found useful in dealing with questions in which the natives were concerned. In some cases they acted as interpreters, and in others as guides in country unknown to Europeans. It was an ex-convict of this class, Baker, who accompanied Governor Gorman in the journey which he undertook with the object of finding another pass over the range westward. This man acted as the Governor's guide, and by his help another route across the range to the Downs was dis- covered. "Gorman's Gap" is the name given to this pass by Stuart Russell. Wreck of the "Sovereign." Though the story of the wreck of the "Stirling Castle" made a great sensation at the time of the occurrence, its incidents were connected with people who were strangers to the settlement. But the second disaster-the wreck of the "Sovereign"-which hap- pened eleven years later, had results which closely affected the lives of many residents of the Colony. Some of the most widely known settlers there were amongst the victims. At that period the passage through the strait at Amity Point was the favourite entrance to Moreton Bay. The route by this course was much shorter for vessels arriving from the south, and as the first ships coming northwards were, for the most part, of com- paratively small size and shallow draught, the passage for many years was used with safety. Certain conditions of wind and tide occasionally made the entrance dangerous for vessels to navigate. The chief cause of the loss of the steamer "Sovereign" was the breakdown of machinery in the engine room, and following on that cause, the vessel's incapacity to withstand the force of the heavy seas which thrust her on the shoals and broke her in pieces. So we read: "It was a well-known fact that the `Sovereign' was rotten, and that her engines were old and imperfectly fitted." The utmost carelessness in such matters was then quite commonly shown, and the highly dangerous practice of storing cargo on deck was generally followed. There were on board at this time fifty-four persons, and of these forty-six were drowned, only a few escaping. Some well-known Darling Downs names were among the list of the lost, those of Mr. and Mrs. Robert Gore and their two children, and the name of Henry Dennis, often referred to by Stuart Russell in his "Genesis." It is only right to state further, that it was to a large extent owing to the assistance rendered by the natives resident on the island that so many were brought safely to shore. In referring to the story of this tragic event, Stuart Russell describes how he himself providentially escaped becoming a sharerin the calamitousexpe riences of those on board the "Sovereign." He had arranged to proceed to Sydney at the time 96 as a passenger on that vessel, but circumstances prevented him from reaching Brisbane before its departure. He describes his own frame of mind in consequence -"angry and rebelling against the idea of losing my anticipated holiday." His feelings may be imagined when he learned of the "Sovereign's" wreck, with the loss of forty- six persons out of the whole number on board when the ship sailed. "The lesson learnt by such an escape may not be repeated aloud. I rode back to Darling Downs in silence and sadness, taught that `there's a Divinity that shapes our ends, rough- hew them how we will.' " The Advance of Settlement Westward. Following on the explorations of Burnett in the north, and those of Mitchell and Kennedy, as well as of Gregory and others, in a westerly direction, pioneers kept moving steadily towards new country, along the lines already traced out by these men. But as in the Burnett country, so also westward, very much of the act,4al exploring work was done by the pioneers themselves. In territories of such vast extent an explorer's track only formed a kind of general guiding line, or afforded safe points of departure for those setting out in search of suitable country round about. Wizen Mitchell's party was returning from the expedition in which the Victoria River (or Barcoo) was discovered, Kennedy, when sent by his leader to make investigations as to the nature of the country southward, found settlers already on the Mooni River. This was near the end of 1846. Though some large runs north from t is neighbourhood had to be abandoned again owing to dangers from blacks and other causes, yet settlement must have been already advancing on a considerable scale, since we read that Mitchell's party now "journeyed past cattle stations and settlers' huts." The main artery of movement westward flowed through tracts following the line of the present railway, but including couiztry southward. Dulacca run is said to have been taken up by JR4n Crowder in 1852, but not stocked until 1855, when it came into Miller's hands. This squatter was joined by Miles two years aftr- wards. Subsequently, the latter bought Miller's interest in the property, and became sole owner. The name of Miles was in Iater years well, known, not only locally, but in the political life of Queensland after separation. Other runs were occupied about the same time or before then, and settlement , increased rapidly in the Surat country. Bartley gives the names of Weribone, Talavera, Yamboogle, Noorandoo, as stations lying in that direction.

Outback Cpn dipons about 1850. The district contained within, and lying around, a triangular block formed by lines connecting Miles, Roma, and Surat, would include, perhaps, the most important part of the new country west- ward from the Downs then brought into more or less settled con- 97 ditions. At the same time, as far as concerned any dose touch with civilisation on the part of its occupants, this country was probably in most respects as far separated from central activities as the "Never Never" country of fifty years later in our history. Pioneers in the neighbourhood of Mount Abundance and the Cogoon River, settling there before 1850, met with many hardships and encoun- tered difficulties almost unsurmountable. Yet not many years elapsed before the country round the same place was permanently occupied. Presently it was found well within the outmost fringe of civilisation westward. To one inquiring into the nature of con- ditions of life at that period-in outlying regions-one feature becomes specially striking; that is the rapid changes in the ownership of runs and the general shortness of the period of possession. It may be said that even a superficial study of the subject will make plain how little the peculiarities of the "land tenure" of those days is nowadays understood. This subject has been referred to in the outline already given of events in New South Wales. General Brevity of Tenure. Without considering districts at this date only in process of settlement, and situated toward the western fringe, the rapid change of owners in the Downs country itself between 1840-50 must appear remarkable. An example, in this connection, may be given, and that is one described by Stuart Russell himself. The station generally known as Clifton was first taken up by Sibley and King and called then King's Creek. "This station," he writes, "after passing through the hands of Forbes, Marsh and Pinnock, ultimately fell into the hands of Tertius Campbell, and from him passed on to W. B. Tooth." As this last is found in occupation in 1856, we find six successive owners within fifteen years. Yandilla was the Downs station probably longest occupied by the same family, since three generations of the Gore name are found to have been resident there.

Exploring Work of A. C. Gregory. In 1855-56 A. C. Gregory accomplished much exploring work in the far north and in the neighbourhood of the Victoria River of Stokes. This stream flows into the sea on the north coast of Australia. He reached its upper waters in the beginning of 1856, but many dangers and difficulties were met with, and, owing to the wet season, the travelling became so heavy that many of the horses died from fatigue. Gregory, however, was successful in reaching the head of the Victoria, in latitude 18 deg. On his return journey he struck an easterly course, and in August of the same year he reached the Albert River and the Plains of Promise. Afterwards crossing the Great Range, the party arrived at the valley of the Burdekin in October, where they found themselves in country now comparatively well known. The journey was continued through 98 the country of the Suttor, Peak Downs, the Mackenzie, to a station on the Dawson River, behind the site of . Gregory 's Journey Westward in 1858. But Gregory's expedition, when two years later he sought traces of Leichhardt's party, traversed country then more closely related to Moreton Bay than the far north. On this journey the explorer advanced first by Kennedy's track to the Warrego, thence to the Downs country of the Barcoo (Mitchell's Victoria) . As he had suffered severely from a wet season on his northern expedition, so now he began to meet the difficulties of a season of drought. In latitude 24 deg. 30 min. the party found an L-marked tree- one of the kind already noticed in connection with previous explorers. From the Barcoo, Gregory advanced toward the Thomson River, but progress was slow through drought conditions. Despair- ing of making headway in this direction, he now returned to the Barcoo. The river, as he followed its course, disappeared for long stretches, but after a time considerable reaches of water pools were found in its bed. He subsequently struck westward and succeeded in reaching Lake Torrens, concerning which locality much fresh knowledge was gained. From that neighbourhood he advanced as far as Mount Hopeless, where settled country began to be found. On this journey Gregory established the identity of the and Cooper's Creek. This explorer became first President of the Queensland Branch of the Royal Geographical Society, and also Surveyor,General. Owing to his scientific attainments, and to his capacity for organisation, his expeditions were so well arranged and systematically carried out that, as in the case of Cunningham, the very success of his work tended to obscure its noteworthiness and intrinsic value.

Agita tion for Separation. Meantime the agitation for separation had been going on and intensifying during the years preceding 1856. As was to be expected, it was not a subject viewed with favour in Sydney. The opposition also of the majority of the "squatter" party had strengthened the hands of its many opponents in parliamentary circles. But the agitation had a much more positive influence in many directions than might be inferred from the attitude main- tained toward it among the governing bodies of the capital. As far as the Imperial Authorities were influenced by Colonial opinion at all, they would, in the nature of the case, pay more heed to the general feeling of the inhabitants of Moreton Bay than they would to the views of the people of Sydney. The persistent efforts of the party following Dr. Lang in this matter evidently made an impres- sion in London, which was increased with the progress of time; whilst again, the public meetings held repeatedly in Moreton Bay settlement for the advocacy of "separation" claims, showed the 99 strong trend of public opinion in jts favour among the community at large. At least eight such meetings togk, place. in the north, whilst in parliamentary election contests this subject was naturally a crucial point in the case of candidates seeking parliamentary honours. The comparatively limited number of electors at that time tended to make the contest all,the more..personal, and:-the feeling aroused by it all the more. intense. The, margin , was some- times so narrow between the total. number of supporters, on either side that it became a question of a "one vote" majority. Dr. Lang himself entered Parliament in 1854' by .some,..salch "narrow way," but once he was, established there "he was not long in exerting himself on behalf of separation." He. was not one to let slip his opportunities. In September of that year he moved that an address be forwarded to Hers Majesty by the Legislative Council "praying for the immediate. ,separation of , Moreton =Bay district from the Colony of New South, Wales." This ,motion. .was seconded by Stuart Russell,.but was opposed by Leslie. The fact that the motion was defeated by a majority of sixteen out of a total of thirty votes shows that,if the fate of "separation" idepewied on the decision of New South Wales as a. whole, the. eventual success of the movement was only a remote possibility. Governor Denison 's Oppo gjtion to Sepa mtign. The influence exerted in relation to the same question by,$ir Charles Fitzroy's successor, Sir W. Denison, was also persistently adverse, as long as opposition was of any avail. The tatter' s, appoint• ment took place in 1855, and as far as he could he discounted tie value of any direct applications which were made on the subject to the authorities in London. Governor Denison would have been a much more dangerous opponent than Fitzroy had he been appointed at an earlier period, of since he possessed none of the easy-going characteristics his predecessor. He much more resembled Gipps. Though con- scientious in the discharge of what he regarded as his duties,,,his character was marked by a dogged determination in the prosecutipn of his aims. Like Gipps also, this Governor seems to have regarded himself as occupying a place, where it was his special office to control and guide the destinies of those under his away. His opportunities, however, of exerting influence on the separation movement were very limited as regards time, since the success of the movement was assured in the year following his appointment. It was probably somewhat humiliating to his pride, that whilst his unfavourable comment on a separation petition led to its temporary rejection by the English Government, yet within the same year a change in the attitude of the powers-,at Home led to its later acceptance and, to a decision in its approval. In 1856 the English Government at last resolved to grant "separation," or, at least, to allow steps to be taken toward, that i00 This is a blank page

A PRESENT-DAY VIEW OF BRISBANE FROM KANGAROO POINT FERRY. end. In Coote's History there is found the following interesting extract: "I have now," writes Mr. Labouchere, addressing the Governor-General, "to inform you that Her Majesty's Government have determined that the time has arrived when this separation would be desirable. They have not failed to give their fullest attention to the arguments adduced by yourself, as well as by Sir Charles Fitzroy, against this determination. But they feel that these consignments rest on premises which are every day more and more set aside by the progress of events." The whole question was thus practically decided, though the work of carrying out the actual process of separating the northern section of country from all political connection with New South Wales was one requiring time. Many points of detail had to be settled, and the boundary line of division traced. The question of the inclusion of the Northern Rivers country within Queensland's limits caused heated discussion. The discovery of gold at Canoona in 1858 and the consequent rush thither, awakened new hopes in Sydney, as well as in Gladstone, that the latter place might still become the capital city. But these hopes were soon proved to be vain. Three years were now taken up in the task of settling disputed points, and of making the necessary arrangements for beginning the work of self government. By the close of 1859 the most important details in that connection had been completed. There were sixteen electoral districts constituted in the new State, with a representation of twenty-six members. Sit George Bowen, who was the first Governor appointed for Queensland, arrived early in December, 1859, and his first official appearance before the residents of More- ton Bay took placeon the 10th of thatmonth. Hence the 10th of December has become Separation Day.

CHAPTER XIV. The Aborigines of Moreton Bay. The accounts which have been given of the original inhabitants of Moreton Bay vary in character and are sometimes contradictory. It is unquestionable that in the various localities considerable dif- ferences were apparent in the attitude severally taken up by them in their dealings with white men. In one neighbourhood they were found friendly and ready to help; in another, treacherous and fierce. It seems generally agreed that the blacks near the coast, and especially northward there, were much more dangerous and more savage towards intruders than those of the interior districts. But this, again, might be explained by the theory that men who were habitually well fed, and thus physically vigorous, would naturally be more high-tempered and warlike than those whose means of existence were somewhat precarious and uncertain. Along the coastline both game and fish were usually plentiful. The blacks of the interior were found to have treated Burke and his companions 101 with kindness , and even with a degree of generosity , considering their circumstances . But the pioneer settlers of Wide Bay and travellers as far north as the scene of Kennedy 's explorations to- wards Cape York, testify to the savage and treacherous charac- teristics which commonly marked the coastal blacks. Leichhardt was a strong supporter of the theory that people should trust the natives, whilst , at the same time, treating them kindly, as far as possible. As has been already referred to, this explorer lived some time among them. On the other hand, it was undoubtedly owing to Leichhardt's acting on this theory that one of his party, Gilbert, the naturalist, was killed by the natives in a night attack. This fatality occurred in the Gulf country on the journey to Port Essington in 1845. It was only by reason of what may be called a fortunate accident that the whole party did not perish at the same time. No precautions seem to have been taken by the leader against a possible night attack. It is, in fact, some- what unreasonable to blame the natives of the country for attacking intruders in their territory. This has been the immemorial custom of savage people everywhere, and the Australian aboriginals were only following the general custom when they attacked and killed even members of other tribes trespassing within their recognised boundaries. Experience of the power of European weapons quickly taught them caution in dealing with white men. It may be said, however, that Australian explorers, as a rule, acted with forbearance and kindness in their dealings with aboriginals, and firearms were seldom used with serious intent except in cases of extremity. But, in course of time, as settlement spread and the blacks were gradually driven from their usual hunting grounds by white men, it followed, as a natural consequence, that in many cases the sheep and cattle on the runs were killed for food by the natives. Quarrels soon became unavoidable under such circumstances. The aboriginal intelligence could scarcely be reasonably blamed for the inability to comprehend white men's laws, or for an unwillingness to obey them. In the hostilities which frequently took place under such circum, stances, the civilised combatants did not always appear in a very favourable light. In many cases they did not "play the game." Atrocities, undoubtedly committed, were often the work of convict servants, and took place without the owner's knowledge or consent. The so-called civilised blacks were also frequently used against their fellows, showing not uncommonly the "zeal of the renegade" in their work. On the question of dealing with the natives, various attitudes were taken up by squatters themselves. Some, like Patrick Leslie, of the Downs, kept them at a distance altogether, allowing no association with them. Others, again, became friendly with the blacks on their runs and frequently employed them. There were, apparently, two leading reasons for the animosity so often shown toward white men by aboriginals. One was the natural feeling 102 of revenge for injury committed, not necessarily on the individual himself, but on some member of his tribe. Retaliation was generally made by attacking the first white man met with; nor is such a custom so far removed from civilised methods as might appear at first sight. Another reason for outbursts of violence may be found in the unreliable temperament of savage peoples. Such men follow the impulse of the moment without thought of consequences, just as children naturally do. Many examples of a sudden change of front on the part of savages might be found. It is seen in the case of Cook and the South Sea natives, by whom he was murdered. An even more marked case is found in connection with Carron's party, left behind by Kennedy on his way north. Toward these men the surrounding aboriginals showed a peculiarly capricious spirit. One day they would bring food to the starving company, and on the next would make an attack upon them. Some fresh incident would give rise to some new idea and their course of action would be immediately changed. In historical accounts, in which aboriginal subjects are treated, there is generally much wealth of detail expended on descriptions of the criminal careers of various black men. We read much about some noted scoundrels like Mill- bong Jimmy, Moggy Moggy, , and many others of like character, but, as against such cases, we find the story of Kennedy's black follower, Jackey, and of Eyre's native servant, Wylie. The former of these two, especially, has made a place for himself in Australian history for all time. Examples of the average aboriginal type may be found among the native friends of , between whom and the blacks around him a strong attachment was known to exist. Petrie was "guide, philosopher, and friend" in the eyes of his dusky followers.

Charges of Cruelty. The aboriginals, again, are frequently charged with the vices marking the lowest types of savages. It is unquestionable that infanticide and cannibalism were both practised among them. We read of a mother killing her child by dashing its head against a tree because it was too heavy a burden to carry, and there is a case recorded by Dr. Lang in his "Cooksland," where the black mother confesses to having drowned one or more of her children in the lagoon-giving as a reason, evidently sufficient for herself, "picca- ninny too much cry." Yet there is abundant evidence to prove that the natives were very fond of their children, and usually allowed them to have their own way in everything. They believed very much in the modern view of education, which leaves so large a sphere for the work of self-development. Cases of cruelty, such as those above mentioned, were probably exceptional. The charge of cannibalism, however, has been proved as having been prevalent at least in some districts. The cannibalism which actually 103 existed , though of a peculiarly revolting type, was, from the native point of view, a kind of religious duty. Elsewhere, in many places, the practice of eating the bodies of slain enemies has been found common, but the Moreton Bay cannibals apparently regarded it as a binding duty to cat the bodies of their deceased friends or relatives. This custom prevailed amongst them in their primitive state. Astounding as this statement may appear, there can be no doubt about its truth, if the statements of historians generally are to be credited. In a tribal battle, for example, where a number were killed on each side, the dead were taken away by their respec- tive relations and eaten by them in due course. The deceased's skin was carefully removed and preserved as a valued relic, useful also as a magical remedy against disease. A story is told about Davis, or "Duramboi," the escaped con- vict, who lived many years among the blacks. When he was unwell on one occasion, a native woman brought out a preserved "family" skin, with finger-nails and ears still attached. This she produced in Duramboi's presence and proceeded to spread over him as a magic-working remedy. No doubt, among the natives themselves, the process was often productive of "faith healing," but in the case of Duramboi, the terror caused by the sudden appear- ance of the ghastly relic so acted upon him that it literally "put him on his feet" and immediately cured him. Can nibal Customs. One aspect of these cannibalistic customs had an important influence on the fate of many white men. To it they, in many cases, undoubtedly owed their lives. When the body of a deceased native was being prepared for food by his sorrowing friends the outer skin was, first of all, completely removed. This process left exposed the underlying tissue, really an inner skin, and this now showed white. Hence evidently arose the belief of the blackfellow that the newly arrived stranger-white in colour-must be none other than some long dead son or brother returned to life. Some fancied likeness to the deceased would confirm this idea.

Duramboi's Expe riences. The convict Davis, just mentioned, lived for many years among the blacks, having been adopted into a tribe as the supposed son of the chief. This son, long dead at the time of the convict's arrival, was supposed to have come to life in Davis, who again was given the name of Duramboi. It was thus the chief's son had been named during his life. In cases such as this, where the natives saw some fancied resemblance between a white visitor and some deceased relative of one of the tribe, the newcomer had no difficulty in establishing friendly relations. There was usually much excitement caused by his arrival, and general rejoicing. 104 When it happened that no resemblance, to any deceased member of the community was observed by the blacks, a white visitor required to proceed more cautiously. Davis, or Duramboi, often travelled among strange tribes. When any of these, upon his arrival, questioned him as to his antecedents in his character of black man restored to life, it was his custom to reply to these enquiries by explaining that it was such a long time since he had died that he had forgotten even his former name. This answer was usually found to be regarded by his questioners as being entirely satisfactory. Mental Capacity. Though some w riters regard the Australian abori ginals as amongst the lowest and least advanced of savage peoples, their weapons and implements in many cases show ingenuity and certain mental power. The natives of Northern Australia have always given evidence, not only of special courage and daring, but also of higher qualities in other respects as well . In some districts in the north, the style of dwelling constructed by them is far superior to the miserable shelters found among aboriginals toward the south. It is in the north, also, that the noted rock pictures are found in caves in various parts there. Many of these are known in North- western Australia, but the native rock pictures found in the caves of the Upper Flinders country, north of Hughenden, show a certain appreciation of artistic ideas on the part of the Queensland blacks. Such attempts at art, though primitive and rude, at least reveal a higher aspect of the native character and its possibilities than is either looked for or believed in by the average member of the civilised community. The Effects upon the Native Character of Contact with Civilisation. After the advent of the white settlers in Moreton Bay, native life, in its habits and customs, necessarily became altered over a wide extent of the territory. When their usual means of livelihood were taken away or diminished in extent-as frequently occurred-they were obliged to attempt to accommodate themselves to the new con, ditions. Unable, like the New Zealand Maories, to combine in self defence, and helpless against the weapons of civilisation, they yielded to circumstances, and in many cases became merely hangers- on around the new settlements. The treatment meted out to the aborigines varied with the character of the settlers with whom they came in contact. The many stories of acts of brutality and cruelty committed against the blacks-without question, true enough in many cases-may yet be balanced by others which record the humanity and kindness exhibited in their treatment by white men of a different class. But the influences which have been civilising and beneficent have, in comparatively few cases, been successful in overcoming 105 those which tend toward grad zal deterioration, and it is to be feared that the trend of development, as far as regards the standard of aboriginal character, has been rather downward than upward since the Australian native began to associate with the white community.

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PART III This is a blank page

TASMANIA: FIRST KNOWN AS VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.

CHARTER XV.

In, New South Wales attention was early drawn ' to the desirability of a British occupation of Van Diemen's Land. The samecauses, inspired this idea as those' which led to the estab- lishment, of a military outpost at, King Georges, Sound in 1826. During the early part of the nineteenth century the English feared the rivalry, of the French in southern aeas, and were carefulz•to anticipate them, as far as possible, in the work of founding colonies there. The Early French Explorers in Van Dien &s Land. ,The name of DEntrecasteaux Channel, on the west side of the estuary of the , may remind us of the reasons. 'of this dread of French settlement in Australasia. Nor shall we find the dread one without foundation. when we regard the facts.7of the case. The distinguished explorer, D'Entrecasteaux,.after whom this channel was named, had been sent out by France. in 1792'.for the purpose of searching for traces of la Perouse's expedition. This latter explorer, with all his company, had, completely, disappeared from human, knowledge some years before that date. D' 'ntrecasteaux was,quite unsuccessful in his attempt to,unravel the mystery of la Perouse's disappearance, but after voyaging through the, open Pacific, he sailed for` Van Diemen's, Land:.add explored the ,southern coastline at Storm Bay, and passed through the, channel,; now named •after him. The• scenery in its neighbour, hood is amongst the most beautiful to'berfound in any part of the island. The note made by,a succeeding French explorer, Baudin, in 1802, .makes plain that these explorations on southern. coasts were not made purely for scientific reasons. Baudin afterwards wrote. in his journal the expression of his own opinion, when he stated that Van Diemen's Land was a country "which ought not to be neglected." .Naturally, he referred to. neglect on the part of, the. French, and in the way of colonising. 1109 It is not here implied that we are to condemn the French for assuming this attitude, seeing that , in regard to such points as have been referred to, the English closely resembled them . This can be seen in the case of Captain Cook and his work. His voyage in the "Endeavour " was the outcome of a desire, on the part of English men of science, to make astronomical observations at a a certain point in the Pacific. But before the end of the same voyage Captain Cook had formally annexed the whole east coast of Australia and had declared it to be British territory. First Settlement in Van Diemen's Land. Thus, following the course usually thought advisable at the time, Lieutenant Bowen was sent with a military party to form a settlement on the Derwent, and in this way anticipate any similar action on the part of the French. Bowen, in 1803, settled on the east side of the Derwent, a few miles farther up the river than the present position of Hobart. Not long afterwards Collins obtained leave to transfer his convict settlement at Port Phillip to the south coast of Van Diemen's Land. In the districts surrounding the locality he had chosen across the strait, the country was poor and the blacks numerous. He had, unluckily, chanced upon one of the worst spots in the district lying around the huge bay. Founding of Hobart Town. But upon his departure from Port Phillip, and his settlement by the Derwent on the site where Hobart Town soon began to rise, Bowen's military party was sent to join the newcomers across the river, and the Risdon position was abandoned. Collins ruled over the new settlement until his death in 1810. Shortly afterwards, the control of the penal establishments in Van Diemen's Land was put in the hands of the Commandant at Hobart. For some years before that date Colonel Paterson had founded another convict colony in the north-on the Tamar-finally choosing its permanent site where Launceston now stands. Accordingly, the next Commandant at Hobart Town became Lieut.-Governor of Van Diemen's Land. Colonel Davey held this position from 1813 to 1817. Though he was, personally, of "rough and ready" manners and methods, Davey pursued an enlightened policy in his control of affairs, encouraging trade and commerce at home and abroad, and throwing open the country for settlement. This Commandant was, however, of the usual military or naval officer type, and inclined to be autocratic in his methods of exercising authority. Upon Davey's resignation in 1817, Colonel Sorell was appointed, and was very successful in his management of internal affairs. It is said that "four years of Sorell's rule had doubled the population and trebled the acreage of farm lands." 110 Governor Arthur and Penal Rule. Governor Arthur succeeded Sorell. He was the most noted of all the Tasmanian governors, and left his mark permanently on the country's history. Though he encouraged all those prisoners under his charge who showed signs of a true desire to reform their lives, his rule was rigidly severe in the case of obdurate criminals. His penal settlement at Port Arthur became one of the most famous convict centres in the world, and a place noted for the extreme severity of its rule. It was at Port Arthur that the "silent cell" was constructed -a small compartment shut off by double doors of great thickness-where the convict prisoner, left in solitude and darkness for a given number of hours, could neither hear a sound, nor could be heard by any in the outer world. During Arthur's time of office the country increased in popula- tion and prospered industrially. But the convict problem was not the only one necessary to be solved. There were dangers from bushrangers in outlying districts, and here, also, the native blacks were a terror to lonely settlers. Bad treatment by the first settlers of the colony had led to a permanent hostility being established between the native inhabitants and all newcomers. In his efforts to put down the bushranging evil Governor Arthur was very suc- cessful, but his policy with regard to the native question resulted in almost entire failure. Attempt to "Round Up " the Blacks. The "Black Line" incident took place shortly after 1828. It was an attempt to compel the blacks to enter reserves specially set apart for them. But the plan arranged for their capture failed in its object. A line of soldiers and settlers, stretching across the inhabited country, moved forward with the purpose of driving the native inhabitants before it. The intended victims, however, escaped through the hands of their pursuers, and all the time, trouble and expense involved went quite unrewarded. Ultimately, the blacks were induced by friendly methods to give themselves up, but though they were henceforth treated with kindness and consideration, their numbers rapidly dwindled, and before very many years the entire black population in Van Diemen's Land became extinct. Trucannini was the name of the last survivor. In 1825 Van Diemen's Land became independent of New South Wales, and henceforth followed its own course. Such con- nection with the parent colony as still remained was merely nominal. Gove rn or Franklin (1837-1843). When Arthur was recalled in 1836, Sir John Franklin was appointed as his successor. Though these two governors were both men of fine character, they differed radically in their views about prison control. Arthur, to a certain extent, resembled Logan, the 111 noted Brisbane Commandant, in that he believed in a vigorous policy of punishment for obstinate offenders.

Gove rn or Franklin's Attempts at Milder Penal Rule. Governor Franklin was a man of the opposite type, and more of the character of Macquarie, of New South Wales. Franklin and his subordinates preferred to pursue more humanitarian methods, which, unfortunately, were not always satisfactory in their working out. But'this Governor became deservedly popular on account of his zealous efforts to advance all religious and educational movements intended for the promotion of the general welfare of the community. Personally, he was esteemed and beloved for his many excellent qualities of mind and character, though it seems clear that he was left far behind by Governor Arthur as regards the efficiency of his rule. Franklin held office for six years, and upon his withdrawal his place was taken by Sir Eardley Wilmot in 1843.

Disagreements between Governor Wilmot and the Free Settlers. Much wrangling went on between the new Governor and the "free settlers." Tasmania had been denied the right to elect any of the members of her Council. This colony was debarred from that privilege on account of its standing as a convict colony, a position from which New South Wales, just before that time, had escaped. But the Tasmanians now strongly objected to paying taxes for the defraying of expenses incurred in connection with the convict establishment. These, they maintained, belonged entirely to the Imperial authorities, since the ' resident colonists had no share in the government of the State. Wilmot's attempt to coerce them in the matter resulted in his recall in 1846, when Sir William Denison succeeded him.

Gove rn or Denison. It was during this Governor's term of office in Van Diemen's Land that transportation to Australia was abolished, as far as con- cerned all the eastern States. The system still remained in operation in Western Australia for a considerable time after this date. When, some years later, self-government was properly constituted in Van Diemen's Land, it was generally thought that the time had come when the name associated so closely with the colony's early convict history should be done away with. Certainly the Dutch Governor at Batavia, from whom the country received the name of Van Diemen's Land, had little right to the honour, compared with the intrepid sailor, Tasman, who was the first European to see it, and after whom it was named Tasmania in 1856. The latter name also was one preferable by far in the opinion of the inhabitants them- 112 selves, since its use helped to withdraw public attention from the period of penal rule, and supplied for the island colony a name untainted by any associations with convict times.

113 THE SWAN RIVER COLONY or WESTERN AUSTRALIA.

CHAPTER XVI. The Swan River Colony or Western Australia. A military expedition was sent by Governor Darling in 1826 to establish a settlement in the south-western corner of the Aus- tralian Continent. This outpost of the Empire was placed there in order to warn off French or other foreign vessels whose officers might possibly be on the lookout for country upon which to form a settlement . Major Lockyer was in command of this expedition. The French were, at this period, the nation most feared by the English as possible rivals in the work of annexing territory. Another expedition had been sent just before this time-in 1824-to Melville Island, north of the present town of Darwin, to occupy that place for military purposes, and possibly to open the country for settlement. The project did not turn out a successful one, and the place was abandoned again after a few years. But the effort at colonising south-western Australia was attended with better results, at least, for a time. The new colony westward was founded on King George's Sound, and the place was in later times well known as Albany. After some years it came under the control of the central authority at Perth. The formation of the settlement here led ultimately to a plan being formed in England for the establishment of a company of settlers on the Swan River. Captain Stirling and Settlement at Perth ( 1829). Captain Stirling had visited that neighbourhood in 1827, as he returned homewards from the newly founded colony further south. He had been very much pleased with the appearance of the country around the river, on whose banks now stands the West Australian capital. The settlement subsequently founded on the Swan River-the Swan River colony-like that of South Australia, was planned in England , and arranged on the theoretical lines sup, posed to be most suitable for the circumstances. But as these theories had been formed and elaborated chiefly by men who generally knew little , or possibly nothing, about colonial conditions and the proper means to meet them, there was naturally an extreme likelihood of their making mistakes . The mistakes . made in the methods pursued soon became apparent when the preparations for 114 colonisation, arranged according to theories, became tested in their result by actual experience. Causes of Failure. Those interested in the experiment appear to have troubled very little about first investigating the actual conditions locally, or about making careful enquiries regarding the nature of the soil and climate. As to possible obstacles an d difficulties to be encountered, there seemed to be general the optimistic belief of Mr. Micawber that "something would turn up" to remove them. The details of the proposed colonisation were planned, in many cases, on quite unpractical lines, and methods were adopted which, from the beginning, made the failure of the scheme a certainty. Land could be bought for eighteen pence per acre, whilst the value of the settler's goods was calculated as payment. Personal property thus bought land whilst the property still remained in the owner's possession . Little care, however, seems to have been exercised in choosing such an outfit as would be suitable for the circumstances likely to be met with in a new colony. After making as many mistakes in their methods as could well have been expected under the existing conditions, the pioneers experienced the inevitable collapse. Nor was that long delayed. The well-to-do members of the party became impoverished, and the struggling settlers ruined. Those who could save anything from the wreck of their fortunes emigrated to one of the other colonies, whilst those who were obliged to remain survived as best they were able. Gradual Growth and Progress. But as these latter had been gaining some colonial experience and knowledge of local conditions during the dismal period when their resources were dwindling away, they at least began to learn slowly how to adapt themselves to circumstances as they were. Gradually a few townships came into existence , and some settlement was made in districts near Perth, whilst southward the inclusion of the little colony at King George's Sound helped to establish com- munication through the districts between that place and the capital. Exploration of Captain Grey on the North -west Coast. It was about ten years after the founding of the colony here that Captain Grey made two expeditions on the Australian north- west coast. His first journey was not successful, as the nature of the country made a passage through it impossible . But he dis- covered the Glenelg River at that time, whilst in his expedition in 1839 he found the Gascoyne River at Shark's Bay. His return journey to Perth at this time takes a place among other tragic stories of Australian exploring work. It is true that only one member of the expedition perished, whilst by Grey's heroic exertions in struggling toward Perth the remainder of his party, who had 115 been left behind on the way, were rescued just in time by those sentto savethem. Owing to its isolated position the progress of the new colony was much retarded. Labour on any extensive scale was unpro- curable, whilst farming of some kind was practically the sole resource of the inhabitants.

Western Australia receives Convicts. Accordingly, shortly after 1840, when the eastern colonies were generally engaged in fighting for the abolition of transportation, Western Australia willingly accepted help from convict sources. And in a material sense the place benefited very greatly by the influx of this kind of labour, but the stains of convictism injured the progress of the colony in other and indirect ways. Free settlers avoided the place, whilst communication between it and the eastern States was barred by the latter as much as possible.

Transportation to Australia Finally Abolished. Much discussion on this subject continued to take place between the various capitals, but in 1865 the Imperial authorities in London finally decided to abolish transportation to Australia altogether. The slow growth of settlement in the western colony can be judged by the fact that, after a lapse of 20 years from its inception, Western Australia still numbered in population only about 5,000 souls. It was not until 1890 that the full right of self-government was granted to this State, which was the last to obtain a position of political equality with the other Australian colonies.

116 PORT PHILLIP SETTLEMENT: THE RISE OF VICTORIA.

CHAPTER XVII. Though Port Phillip was a little known outlying part of New South Wales for thirty years after Collins' time, it does not owe its first settlement to that colony, but to pioneers from Tasmania. What may be called "a series of accidents" helped to delay its development beyond the period which might be thought the natural one in the case of so rich a territory. Collins' unfavourable account of Port Phillip in 1803, and the disappointing results of some attempts to form a branch colony at -combined with objections in Sydney against settlement too remote from head- quarters-all tended to delay the beginnings of pioneering work in the part of Australia lying along the north shore of Bass's Strait. Thus Van Diemen's Land had been more than thirty years in existence as a penal colony before the first intending settlers started from Tasmania to select at Port Phillip land suitable for farming or pastoral pursuits. The successful rise of the colony, now known as Victoria, contrasts strongly with the disappointing results of the elaborate arrangements for the colonising of Western Australia and South Australia-arrangements made on an extensive scale, and with, as was thought, a complete organisation.

Settlement at Port Phillip. In the case of Port Phillip, it was the individual efforts of a few enterprising pioneers which began the work of settlement there-a work whose scope in a few years extended with a quite astonishing rapidity, and whose success was manifestly assured from the first. It is true that the "sphere of action" in this eastern district was much more favourable than that in the middle-south and at the Swan River, but at the same time we may note that the individual pioneers in Port Phillip were practical men, and did not settle on a given spot until there was a reasonable assurance of developing resources already known to exist. The Henrys. The two Henty brothers took up, in Port Phillip, the country they selected for settlement. These men have much the same position in the early that Patrick Leslie and 117 his brother occupy in the story of early Moreton Bay. The Hentys settled at Portland Bay in 1834. It was at the homestead there that Sir Thomas Mitchell came upon them on his arrival at the coast in his exploring expedition from the Murray southward in 1836. The Henty family had been among the members of the West Australian band of colonists some years earlier. After having had experience of colonising work in the west, and in Tasmania, they would, as a matter of course, be now in a much better position to take up suitable land and develop it than they had been formerly as emigrants to the Swan River fresh from England. Their position at Portland Bay was soon established securely. John Batman. Another Tasmanian also, John Batman, by Hume's description of the Port Phillip country, had been roused to a determination to explore it and to search for land suitable for settlement. After due preparations for the expedition, Batman set sail and reached Port Phillip in the early part of 1835. He was much pleased with the land lying along the western and northern sides of the great bay, and he immediately entered into negotiations with the native blacks for the purchase of more than half a million of acres, extending from the neighbourhood of the present towns of Queens- cliff and Geelong northwards. Exploring the Yarra River as far as the position of Prince's Bridge of to-day, he expressed his favourable opinion of that locality as a site for the chief town of the proposed settlement. "This," he wrote, "will be the site for a village."

Fawkner's Arrival in Port Phillip. It formed somewhat of a coincidence, that without any mutual understanding, his rival, John Pascoe Fawkner, a week or two afterwards arriving from Tasmania, reached Hobson' s Bay and presently rowed up the Yarra and also came upon the suitable site referred to by Batman. But whilst the latter was back in Hobart at the time seeking Government sanction for his land pur- chase, Fawkner's party, preferring practice to theory, landed their stores near the site of Prince's Bridge and began to form their colony. Thus, on Batman's return from Hobart, and when he had all prepared for making a beginning on the banks of the Yarra, he found the rival party already in occupation at his previously chosen position. But as neither pioneer had any legal claim to the land, possession, in such conditions, was even more than "nine points of the law," The two companies therefore camped in the same locality, though, of course, at different spots there. The question of their rival claims had, meantime, to remain in abeyance, though there was more than enough room for both and sufficiently wide scope 118 for the energetic work necessary in making preparations for the establishment of a colony. Ultimately their respective claims were adjusted, Fawkner mainly identifying himself with the rise and progress of the new town of Melbourne, which now sprang into existence and grew with quite astonishing rapidity. Though Batman was well rewarded by the Government for his successful pioneering work, his famous treaty with the blacks was entirely ignored. It is not recorded whether or not the blacks of that neighbourhood ever received from any other source an equivalent in kind, in lieu of the many blankets, mirrors, knives, and tomahawks, together with the 50 handkerchiefs and other goods, which Batman had promised them as payment for their territory. Rights of Settlement. As regards the rights of occupancy, it was some time before any of the new settlers knew "where they were." The country where they had "sat down" belonged to New South Wales, though it was much nearer Hobart than Sydney. The new arrivals also were themselves Tasmanians, and wished to come under Governor Arthur's jurisdiction. But this plainly was not officially possible. New South Wales again showed itself as actually antagonistic to the new colony. It was, however, a proceeding too absurd even for the most violent "red tape" to punish as trespassers men whose work was- as was plain to everyone-of immense importance to the progress and development of the colony. The fact that their action threatened to give too much trouble to Sydney and the Imperial authorities would scarcely be regarded generally as a sufficient reason for getting rid of them, or even for seriously interfering with their undertaking. Ultimately, it was arranged that Governor Bourke should send Captain Lonsdale to assume direction of public affairs in the meantime at the centre of the new settlement. In the following year the Governor himself paid an official visit to the place, and arranged matters as satisfactorily as was possible under such conditions as then existed.

Spread of Settlement. The members of the "squatter" class soon began to spread over the country westwards from the Yarra, and stations were rapidly formed in all directions. To meet the difficulties of defining their legal position as occupiers of State lands, Bourke divided the country which lay far distant from the settlement into "pastoral districts." In these the squatter could take up ground on a large scale, and could keep stock there, on the payment of a small rate annually. For many years after this time Port Phillip remained a pastoral territory, forming an outlying district of New South Wales. 119 Discovery of Gold. But conditions quickly altered after the discovery of gold in 1851. Old settlers flocked to the goldfields, and new arrivals kept coming in by tens of thousands from all parts of the civilised world. Fresh troubles now arose from the increase in bushranging, as well as from the quarrels occurring among the miners themselves. These latter also complained bitterly of the mining laws, and the exorbitant license fees which they were compelled to pay. The Eureka Stockade, Ballarat. The agitation over these questions kept on increasing, and finally culminated in an attempt at organised revolution. This rising is generally known as the Eureka Stockade Rebellion, from the fact of that place forming the fortified entrenchment of the miner mutineers. But the capture of the stockade and the crushing out of the rebellion ended any hopes of establishing an independent republic. On the other hand, the circumstances connected with the rising made plain to the powers in Sydney that a complete re-organisation of governing methods was urgently required. During these years, in which -took place the events just recorded, the question of granting constitutions to several of the colonies and subordinate districts had been under serious consideration. Self Gove rn ment Granted. In 1851 the four States of New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia, and Tasmania had finally receeived the powers of self- government, under which they have since carried on in the respec- tive States the administration of public affairs. The two Houses of Parliament, now granted to each of them, formed the colonial equivalent for the Lords and Commons of Great Britain. It will be thus seen that the four southern colonies anticipated Moreton Bay by only a comparatively short time, as far as regards the settling of the question of self government. Though the Con- stitutions of the various States differed on some minor points, their chief function of managing their own affairs, politically, made them, in essentials , akin to the British Constitution and to each other. As Queensland remained "Moreton Bay" up to 1859, so Victoria had only ceased officially to be "Port Phillip" in 1851. Within four or five years after this date, Victoria and the other three colonies had the constitutional forms of Government established in due working order. In educational matters, Melbourne quickly followed the example of Sydney by the establishment of a University in 1853.

120 SOUTH AUSTRALIA

CHAPTER XVIII.

The colony of South Australia was founded in 1836. Its settle, ment was in the nature of an experiment in colonisation. In this respect it very much resembled Western Australia. In the case of the eastern colonies, already established, the intention had been at first only to found penal settlements or military outposts. The advent of the free settler had been of later development, and seemed more like an afterthought. In the beginning of things, in fact, his arrival was often undesired and sometimes definitely opposed. We know that, in the case of Moreton Bay settlement, for nearly twenty years after its foundation, travellers without due credentials were forbidden, under heavy penalties, to approach it nearer than fifty miles. Such advance of colonisation along ordinary lines, as had already taken place in Australian territory, was seldom due to any special Government encouragement or official assistance. The growth which actually took place may be styled rather the result of the workings of the evolutionary process of natural development. Progress arising from such causes was already extensive in the districts around Sydney in the late thirties. But the capital city was then already nearing the completion of the first fifty years of its existence.

The South Australian Scheme. The first founding of South Australia was carried out along very different lines from those of the methods which had been adopted by New South Wales. The establishment of the former colony-as has been said-was in the nature of an experiment, and intended to prove the truth of theories held by certain Englishmen regarding colonising work. Edward Gibbon Wakefield was the leading spirit in the planning of the new scheme. His ambition was to reproduce English social and economic conditions in certain favoured spots in the Australian bush. Since it had been noticed that in the colonies already existing the low price of land had encouraged men of very humble station, or even ex-convicts, to secure landed property and thus obtain an important position in the community, Wakefield and men of his type regarded this condition of affairs as a thing exceedingly undesirable. His solution of the difficulty was to put a high price on land so that the poor man could not buy it, and would thus be obliged to work 121 for wages on the property of the wealthy landowner. In this way the pleasant conditions of cultured society and social refinements, such as were found in England, would re-appear again in an Aus- tralian setting. But the lower classes would, in the same way, remain "in their proper station." The scheme, as a whole, appeared an excellent one from the English point of view, but an attempt made to carry it out under Australian conditions formed another story. The plan, perhaps excellent in theory, was found unworkable in practice, and a colony such as had been organised on paper refused to materialise when it was attempted to make it a reality.

South Austra lian Association. The scheme of colonisation formulated by the South Aus- tralian Association-as the new company was called-was, in 1834, embodied in a Bill and passed through Parliament. Some of the most important points were:-No convicts were to be allowed to enter the new settlement. Land was to be sold for not less than twelve shilling per acre. Receipts from such sales were to be used for securing immigrants for the colony; these, naturally, were to form a labour supply. Questions of local significance appear to have been ignored. Nobody seemed to trouble about the nature of the soil in the new colony, or about its special capacities, whilst peculiarities of climate and facilities for transport of goods were evidently regarded as points of minor importance. First Landing at Kangaroo Island. In 1836 the first settlers arriving landed at Kangaroo Island, but this locality was soon abandoned and a site on the mainland was chosen on the Torrens River. The settlement then formed was called Adelaide, from the name of the Queen. The Surveyor-General, Colonel Light, was chiefly responsible for the choice of the new centre. Captain Hindmarsh, a naval officer, was first Governor, but the colonising association was to be represented by Mr. Fisher, since its powers included the manage- ment of land sales and other details of business. This division of authority gave rise to difficulties forthwith. The Governor com- manded and Fisher countermanded, and after much wrangling and quarrelling between the two men, both were recalled.

Governor Gawler (1838 -1841). Colonel Gawler succeeded Hindmarsh, but with full powers and undivided authority. Though Gawler arrived two years after the colony's foundation, he did not see signs of the peace, prosperity and progress so confidently predicted at first. Real settlement had so far been scarcely attempted. The moneyed class found it easier to become speculators in town lots in Adelaide. The labourer, no 122 doubt intoxicated by the freedom of his new conditions, demanded excessive wages, whilst at the same time he knew very little about the kind of work required in a new colony. Neither landowner nor labourer seemed anxious to begin hard work. The latter class also very easily avoided the difficulty of dear land by simply moving to the next colony, where it was to be obtained at a much cheaper rate. Meantime the people were living on their capital, and this condition of affairs was likely to be of short duration. When Gawler arrived-as we read-"the finances were in a hopeless muddle." Nor had Gawler the knowledge and capacity necessary to reduce chaos to order. He adopted expedients which could only bring temporary relief and put off the evil day of reckoning- later, sure to come. As five years after his arrival the colony's "official expenditure was nearly six times its revenue," it does not appear any exaggeration when we read further that "South Australia was practically bankrupt." It would appear that one would have had good grounds for stating that it was bankrupt altogether. Gove rn or Grey ( 1841 -1845). Gawler' s successor was Captain George Grey, already well known as a daring explorer along the west coast of Australia. The new Governor at once changed all the methods adopted by his predecessor. Gawler had started works for the purpose of relieving the needs of the unemployed, but this, of course, only tended to collect the working community round the town centre. Grey immediately put a stop to all this kind of work and reduced the expenditure of public money in every possible way. Consequently, men in search of employment were now obliged to go further afield, and as labour became available in country districts land began to be taken up and settled upon more extensively. Land prices had also fallen in the general depression in Gawler's time, so that the poor man could now much more easily make a beginning on a farm of his own. Gradually the outlook improved, and the English Government showed itself willing to assist the colonists as soon as it became evident that they had seriously under- taken the work of helping themselves. Adventu ro us Journ ey of Edward . It was in the year in which Governor Grey took up office in. South Australia-1841-that Eyre carried out his famous under- taking of traversing the unexplored country between Adelaide and Albany, in south-western Australia. The fate of his only white companion, Baxter, who was killed by some of the aboriginal fol- lowers during Eyre's temporary absence from the camp, and the narrow escape from death of the famous explorer himself, are among the best known facts in the history of Australian exploration- 123 Had it not chanced that Eyre suddenly came within sight of a French vessel, the "Mississippi," lying off the coast near an inlet a few miles east of Esperance Bay, it seems impossible that Eyre could have escaped destruction. But the timely assistance rendered him by the Captain of this vessel, when his circumstances were of the most desperate character, enabled him to start afresh on his journey and to reach Albany, in spite of the many difficulties encountered in the latter part of his journey also. Eyre's under- taking at this time has been characterised by some as "mad," and, doubtless, by others, as "heroic" in its character. But, as in many other cases, much depends on "the point of view" of the observer. Sturt's Exploration. Some fifteen years before his journey from Adelaide into the interior, Sturt had carried through two very successful exploring undertakings farther east. In 1828 he set out from Sydney to carry out more completely the work begun by Oxley on the Mac- quarie and southwards. In the prosecution of his work at this time he advanced as far as the Darling River, which he discovered, named and explored for many miles; but drought conditions com- pelled him to return without completing his work. In the following years, 1829-30, Sturt made his celebrated journey down the Murrum- bidgee and the Murray, and as far as Lake Alexandrina, at the Murray's mouth. In this journey he discovered the lower waters of the Darling River, whose course he had previously traced for seventy miles farther north. Unfortunately, on reaching the coast, his party were unable to take the sea route back again, and being compelled to row up the river and against stream, they only succeeded in making good the return to their starting point when at the last stage of exhaustion. Sturt's journey in 1844. In 1844 Sturt set out from Adelaide with a well equipped expedition for the purpose of attempting to reach the centre of the continent. The party, travelling northwards, reached the Darling country, near the site of Menindi, and pressing north by Broken Hill, they reached the Grey Range, a little north of the latitude of the present town of Bourke. Their six months' stay at Rocky Glen, in this region, forms a memorable story of endurance, heroic, in greater measure, on account of its passive character. Their sufferings here were intense, and Poole-one of the party- died, whilst Sturt, after a vain attempt to reach the centre with a very small company in light equipment, was at length compelled to give up the undertaking and to return to Adelaide. Himself broken in health, he had yet failed in his object by 150 miles only. Discovery of Copper. In 1842 the discovery of copper at Kapunda gave a fresh impetus to the growth and progress of the settlement. Now, with 124 the development of farming industries and the establishment of sheep and cattle stations in the wide spaces of the interior, an era of general prosperity began to dawn at last. In 1845 Governor Grey was notified of his transfer to New Zealand, and Colonel Robe was appointed in his place. Robe re- mained in office for three years, a considerable part of which time he appears to have spent in wrangling with the colonists over the question of royalties on minerals found in the colony. This Governor was recalled in 1848, and was succeeded by Sir Henry Young. He remained in office until 1855. During his term of rule self government was granted to South Australia, for of the Council appointed in 1851 sixteen members were elective out of a total of twenty-four. In a few years after this date, the regular forms of constitutional government were found duly established.

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INDEX

Page Page Aboriginals of Queensland 101.106 Convicts .. 37, 51, 56, 80, 116 Abundance, Mt...... 76, 98 Cook , Captain James 5-7, Adelaide ...... 122 23.25, 27.29 Albany ...... 114, 123 Cogoon R...... 73, 76, 98 Albert R. (Carpentaria) 98 Cooper 's Creek (see Barcoo). Amity Point ...... 37, 96 Cotton, Major, Comman- Arthur, Governor (Tas.) 111 dant ...... 52, 59, 60 "Artemisia" ship ...... 83 Cordeaux , Mt...... 49 Australian Discoveries - Cow Pastures ...... 8 Early ...... 14 Cressbrook ...... 66 Backhouseand Walker .. 51 "Cumberland " ship ..... 12 Ballarat ...... 120 Cunningham , A ll an ..... 48.50 Barcoo R...... 88,99 "Currency' Question 61 Barney, Col...... 85, 86 Curtis, Port ...... 32, 85, 86 Bass, George ...... 10, 11 "Customs" ...... 64 Bass Strait ...... 11 Dampier, William ..... 5 Batman, John ...... 118 Darling Downs ...... 48, 49, 65 Baudin (French Naviga- Darling, Governor ..... 16,17 tor) ...... 11, 12, 109 Darling River ...... 124 Belyando ...... 76 Davey, Governor (Tas.) . 110 Bishop, Commandant 40 Davis ( Duramboi ) ..... 95, 104 "Black Line" (Tasmania) 111 D'Entrecasteaux ...... 109 Blaxland...... 14 de Quiros ...... 1, 2 Bligh,Governor ...... 12.14 Denison, Governor .. 19, 100, 112 Botany Bay ...... 7, 25 Derwent R. ... 11, 110 Bougainville ...... S Dirk Ha rt og 's Island .. 3 Bourke, Governor ...... 17, 18 Dutch in the East Indies . 1.6 Bowen, Sir George ..... 101 "Duyfhen" ship ...... 2,3 Bowen, Lieut...... 110 Eagle Farm ...... 44 Boyne R ...... 92 Emancipists ...... 15 Bracefell ...... 95 "Endeavour " ship .... 6,23 Brisbane, Town of 40, 42, Essington, Port ...... 71 59,61,93,94 Eureka Stockade ...... 120 Brisbane, Sir Thos. .... 15-16, 40 "Exiles" ...... 80,84 Bunya Country ...... 53 Eyre , William ...... 123 Burnett, Surveyor ...... 90.92 Fawkner ...... 118 Bribie Island ...... 33 "Fifty-mile Limit " ...... 58, 67 Carron ...... 89, 90 First Stations ...... 65-68 Carpentaria, Gulf ...... 3, 12 Fisher ...... 122 Cape York ...... 3,89 Fitzroy, Governor ..... 19, 81.83 Cecil Plains ...... 66 Fitzroy Downs .. 76 Census (Brisbane, 1846) . 61 Flinders, Captain Matthew 5, 10, Cleveland ...... 59, 93, 94 11, 12, 29-31 "Chasely" ship ...... 83 "Fo rt itude " ship .. 83 Clunie, Commandant 51 Franklin, Governor (Tas.) 111 Coal, Discovery of (New French in Pacific ..... 7, 11, 109 South Wales) ..... 12 Fyans, Commandant .... 51, 59 Collins, Lieut.-Governor . 110 Gascoyne River 115 Constitutions of Colonies 120 Gap, Cunningham 's .... 49 Page Page Gayndah ...... 92 Macquarie, Governor ... 14, 15 Gawler, Governor ...... 122, 123 Maranoa R...... 75,78 German Station (Mission) 55, 56 Maria Island ...... 5 Gilbert-Naturalist 70,71 Massacre Bay ...... 4 Gipps, Governor 18, 19, 59, 80, 81 Melbourne ...... 17,120 Glass House Mts...... 30, 31 McConnel, D. C...... 66 Gladstone Colony ...... 86 Miller, Commandant ... 38, 39, 40 Goddard ..... 90 Miles ...... 97 Gold, Discovery of ..... 101 Mitchell, Sir T...... 17, 75.78 Gorman, Commandant 59, 60 Mitchell, Mt...... 49 Gravatt, Commandant 59, 60 Mitchell River ...... 71, 89 Grego ry , A. C...... 98, 99 Moreton Bay ... 27.31, 38, 62, 64 Grey, Captain ...... 115, 123 Moreton Island 31 Grey, Earl ...... 83, 84, 86 "Moreton Bay Courier" . 87 Grose, Lieut.-Governor .. 8 New Guinea ...... 2, 3, 6 "Hashemy" ship ..... 85 New South Wales Corps . 8, 11 "Heemskerk" ship ..... 4, 5 Newcastle ...... 12 Hely ...... 73,74 Norfolk Island ...... 11 Hentys ...... 17,117 "Norfolk" ship ...... 10, 11 Hervey Bay ...... 31, 55,91 Nuyts, Pieter ...... 4 Hindmarsh, Governor (S.A.) 122 O'Connell, Colonel ..... 86 Hodgson, Arthur ...... 66 Oxley, Lieut...... 32.40 Houtman's Abrolhos .... 3 Pamphlett, T...... 33 Hume and Hovell ...... 41 Paterson, Captain ...... 8, 110 Hunter, Governor .... 8, 9 Pelsart ...... 4 Immigration to Moreton Perth (W.A.) ...... 114 Bay ...... 81 Petrie, Andrew ...... 43, 52, 53 "Investigator" ship ..... 12 Phillip, Governor ...... 7, 8, 25 Ipswich ...... 61,94 Plains of Promise ...... 98 "Jackey" (Kennedy's Ser- Po rt Arthur ...... 111 vant) ...... 89 Po rt Jackson ...... 7 Jimbour ...... 66 Port Phillip ...... 11, 117.120 Johnston, Captain ...... 13 Po rt land Bay ...... 118 angaroo Island ...... 122 Portuguese in the East .. 1 Kapunda (Copper) 124 Pumice-stone River ..... 31 Kennedy, E. B. . 77, 78, 87, 88, 89 Queen Street ...... 43, 44 King George's Sound ... 114 Redcliffe ...... 35, 38, 39, 40 King, Governor ...... 11,12 Representative Government 120 L•marked Trees ...... 73,74 Risdon ...... 110 Labour Difficulties ...... 78, 80 Rockingham Bay 89 First Land Sale ...... 61 Robe, Governor (S.A.) . 124 Lang, Dr ...... 78-83,84 Rum Traffic ...... 13 La Perouse ...... 7 Russell, Stuart ..... 53, 55, 66, 67 Launceston ...... 110 "Separation" ...... 60, 80, 99 Leeuwin, Cape ...... 3 Severn River (Dumaresq) 48 Leichhardt, Dr...... 69-74 Shark Bay ...... 115 Leslie, Patrick ...... 65, 80 Simpson, Dr...... 60 Light, Colonel ...... 122 Skirmish, Point ...... 29 "Lima" ship ...... 83 Solander, Dr...... 25 Limestone Hills ...... 45 South Australia ...... 121-125 Lindesay, Mt...... 47 Sorell, Governor (Tas.) 110 Lockyer, Major ...... 45,46, 114 "Sovereign" Shipwreck 96 Logan, Commandant .... 42, 45, Spanish in the East ..... 1, 2 46,47,48 Squatt ers ...... 80 Logan Settlement ...... 67 Steamboat services .. 63 Lonsdale, Captain ...... 119 Stirling, Governor (W.A.) 114 Lyon, A. S...... 87 "Stirling Castle" Ship- Lynd River ...... 71 wreck ...... 95 Page Page Stoddard ...... 90 University of Melbourne Sturt, Captain ...... 17, 124 Established .. .. . 120 Swan River ...... 114 Van Diemen's Land ... 4, 109-113 Swan, James ...... 87 Victoria (Port Phillip) .. 117-120 Sydney ...... 7, 10, 25, 41 Victoria R. (Barcoo) .. 77 Tamar River ...... 110 Victoria R. (Gulf of Tarong and Upper Bur- Carpentaria) ...... 98 nett ...... 92 Wakefield,E. G...... 121 Tasman, Abel .. 4, 5 Walker (Missionary), see Tasmania (Van Diemen's Backhouse. Land) ...... 109-113 Warning, Mt. .... 46 Termination Plains ..... 38 Wentworth, W. C. ... 14, 18, 48 Tide of Settlement .... 58, 64 Western Australia ..... 3,114,116 Toolburra ...... 66 Western Port ...... 10 Toorbul ...... 93 Weymouth Bay ...... 89 Torrens River ...... 122 Wickham, Captain ...... 60 Torres ...... 2, 6 Wide Bay ...... 53 Torres Strait 2, 6 Windmill ...... 51 Transportation Abolished . 116 Widgee ...... 92 Treadmill ...... 51 Wilmot, Governor (Tas.) 112 Trucannini ...... 111 Yarra River ...... 118 Uniacke ...... 35 Young, Governor (S.A.) 124 University of Sydney "Zeehaen" ship ...... 4 Established ...... 19 Zeehan, Mt...... 5