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Grower Champagne Tasting in HK

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Grower Champagne Tasting in HK IN REVIEW: Grower Champagne Tasting in HK 28th November 2019 © Alexandria Rae Cubbage THE FINE WINE EXPERIENCE | 85 Queen’s Road West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong Office:+852 2803 0753 | Email: [email protected] | Website: www.finewineexperience.com IN REVIEW: GROWER CHAMPAGNE TASTING IN HK t the end of October, we conducted a tasting session about Grower Champagne to learn more about this hot topic in wine and why this category is continuing to increase in popularity. Grower Champagne refers to Champagnes Aproduced by the people that grow the grapes on their estate. In French the term is ‘Récoltant-Manipulant’, so in general on Champagne labels, look for ‘RM’ on the label to identify a grower Champagne. The main reasons why we like Grower Champagne are the following: • Tends to be grown on specific parcels in Champagne, so has a distinct taste that may change each year • Smaller production • Attention to detail • Artisanal/ take risks/ creativity of these Champagnes terroir • More about than a house style. We found these qualities to be true in the Champagnes we tasted throughout this evening. Here was our lineup and our impressions: THE FINE WINE EXPERIENCE | Shop A, 165-166 Connaught Road W, Hong Kong P.2 Office:+852 2803 0753 | Email: [email protected] | Website: www.finewineexperience.com IN REVIEW: GROWER CHAMPAGNE TASTING IN HK FLIGHT 1 - Zero Dosage: A. NV Eric Rodez cuvée Zéro Dosage Ambonnay Grand Cru Montagne de Reims Disgorged July 2018 Blend: 70% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay; vinified 80% in small oak barrels and 30% reserve wine used Eric Rodez thinks of his Champagnes like a musical composition. He makes eight different Champagnes which he sees as eight melodies. His vineyards comprise 6.5 hectares located on the mid-slopes of Ambonnay. These vineyards are made up of 35 parcels which Eric considers to be 35 notes of music that express five emotions: grape variety, vintage, vineyard location, method The Champagne Guide 2018-2019 of fermentation and malolactic fermentation (‘forte’) or not (‘allegro’). Tyson Stelzer, pg. 145. In addition, for his winemaking approach, he vinifies in barriques, uses light dosage(no more than 5g/l) and has reserve wines spanning twenty years. pg. 145. Rodez’s wines are known for having a “salty minerality”. Pg. 145. This wine showed lively fruit notes of golden delicious apple and ripe pear combined with lemony acidity and a minerally backbone. It was dry with medium plus body, creamy texture and a long length. The wine received two votes for top two favourite wines of the night. THE FINE WINE EXPERIENCE | Shop A, 165-166 Connaught Road W, Hong Kong P.3 Office:+852 2803 0753 | Email: [email protected] | Website: www.finewineexperience.com IN REVIEW: GROWER CHAMPAGNE TASTING IN HK B. NV Georges Laval Cumières 1er Cru Brut Nature Vallée de la Marne Disgorged 4 July 2019 Fruit is from 2017 Vintage Blend: 50% Chardonnay, 25% Pinot Noir, 25% Pinot Meunier This Grower Champagne has quite small holdings with only 2.5 hectares. They produce approximately 15,000 bottles per year. Based in Cumières in Vallée de la Marne, they are one of the oldest winemaking families (since 1694) in Champagne. Georges Laval has farmed his vineyards organically since 1971, and he makes the wine in a natural and artisanal way. His son, Vincent, who took over in 1996 follows this same approach and farms and works in this way in order to preserve the original aromas and flavours terroirs of the great of Champagne. For winemaking, Vincent uses indigenous yeast, ferments in oak barrels, and uses very little sulphur, and there is no fining or filtration. The Cumières 1er Cru Brut Nature spends three years in barrel before disgorgement. We decanted this wine an hour prior to serving it as when we opened it this Champagne was very closed. This wine showed aromas that reminded me of Chablis with flavours of oyster shell, wet rocks, crunchy green apple and lime citrus. The wine was medium plus in body and bone dry. We all agreed that this Champagne is a serious one with intense precision that is meant for food and contemplation; it’s not a fun wine for quaffing and toasting casually with friends. This Champagne received no votes for top two favourites of the night. C. NV René Geoffroy Lieu-Dit “Les Houtrants complantés” 1er Cru Brut Nature Vallée de la Marne Disgorged September 2018 (1,002 bottles produced) Bottled 2013(blend of harvests from 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012) Blend: Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, Chardonnay, Arbanne, Petit Meslier This vineyard was planted in 2004 and is mid-slope above Cumières. Jean-Baptiste Geoffroy, the fifth generation in charge at René Geoffroy describes himself as follows: ‘I am a winegrower.’ Tyson The Champagne Guide 2018-2019 Stelzer, pg. 154. He owns 11 hectares in Cumières, 1 hectare each in Damery and Hautvillers and 2 hectares in Fleury-la-Rivière. His goal is to produce wines that express the character of the vineyard. It’s not about expressing a grape variety for him. For ‘Les Houtrants complantés’ the grapes are co-planted and co-fermented. In terms of winemaking, he uses a traditional press, avoids malolactic fermentation and uses a low sulphur regimen. With ‘Les Houtrants complantés’, there is no use of oak and no fining or filtration. This wine showed a sweet fruit character with aromas of brioche, almonds and white flowers and a creamier texture than the previous two Champagnes in the tasting. The round character and rich fruit aromas were surprising given the Champagne sees no time in oak. The body was medium plus. This Champagne received two votes for top two favourites of the night. THE FINE WINE EXPERIENCE | Shop A, 165-166 Connaught Road W, Hong Kong P.4 Office:+852 2803 0753 | Email: [email protected] | Website: www.finewineexperience.com IN REVIEW: GROWER CHAMPAGNE TASTING IN HK FLIGHT 2 - With Dosage: D. 2012 Hugues Godmé cuvée Fins Bois Grand Cru Extra Brut Montagne de Reims Disgorged September 2018 4g/l dosage Blend: 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay The focus for Hugues Godmé is the farming of his vineyards. ‘His aspiration is to use organics to encourage deep roots that draw The Champagne Guide 2018-2019 minerality and salinity from the soil.’ Tyson Stelzer, pg. 175. He has used organic farming practices since 2005 and received full certification in 2013. Godmé comprises 12 hectares with 84 parcels spanning five villages. grand cru Its base is in the of Verzenay. For the winemaking, Hugues uses indigenous yeast, moderate amounts of sulphur and the wines are mostly vinified and aged on their lees in oak barrels often for long periods of time. With global warming, Hugues is frequently blocking the malolactic fermentation in order to keep freshness and focus. pg. 175. With cuvée Fins Bois, the wine was finished with 30% malolactic fermentation, 80% fermentation in oak and four years on its lees. This Champagne showed aromas of unripe peach, yellow plus and lime citrus. It was very chalky and precise with intense depth and concentration. The length was quite long. This Champagne received one vote for top two favourite wines of the night. FLIGHT 3 - 100% Pinot Meunier: E. 2014 Georges Laval Les Hautes Chèvres 1er Cru Brut Nature Vallée de la Marne 0 dosage Disgorged 17 October 2018 (1,473 bottles produced) The name of this wine translates to ‘The High Goats’, and the vineyard is located above the village of Cumières on clay-limestone soils. This Champagne comes from Pinot Meunier vines that were planted between 1930 and 1971 and provide low yields which produce intense aromatics and concentrated flavours on the palate. For this tasting, all of the Champagnes were served in white Zalto glasses, but we provided a Bordeaux Zalto glass as well in case people wanted to try the Champagne in a larger glass. I find with grower Champagnes, and especially those that have a high percentage of Pinot Noir in the blend, that I prefer to drink them from a larger glass as the air helps them to open and reveals more aromas. I poured my glass of Champagne into the Bordeaux Zalto glass. It was very floral with aromas of honeysuckle, peaches, nectarines and other stone fruits along with a lime citrus zestiness on the palate and dry finish. The wine was medium plus to full-bodied and much more aromatic than its counterpart Cumières. This Champagne received no votes for top two favourite wines of the night. THE FINE WINE EXPERIENCE | Shop A, 165-166 Connaught Road W, Hong Kong P.5 Office:+852 2803 0753 | Email: [email protected] | Website: www.finewineexperience.com IN REVIEW: GROWER CHAMPAGNE TASTING IN HK FLIGHT 4 - Blanc de Blancs (100% Chardonnay): F. 2012 Eric Rodez Cuvée Lieu-Dit “Les Genettes” Chardonnay Ambonnay Grand Cru Brut Montagne de Reims 1-3g/l dosage 100% vinified in wood Disgorged July 2018 This Champagne is made from Chardonnay from vines with an average age of 41-years-old and the concentration and intensity from these older vines comes through in the wine. The 2012 “Les Genettes” was a step above the Zero Dosage that we tasted in the first flight. It’s elegant with aromas of crunchy peaches and other stone fruits and complex minerality. The wine is medium plus to full bodied and leaves a lingering finish. This Champagne received 6 votes including one of mine for top two favourite wines of the night and was the second favourite wine overall. G. 2009 Hugues Godmé Lieu-Dit “Les Alouettes St Bets” 1er Cru Extra Brut Montagne de Reims 2-3 g/l dosage Disgorged May 2018 This Blanc de Blancs comes from Chardonnay vines planted on the upper slope areas in Villers-Marmery that are located at 180- 210m in elevation.
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