VIENNA TO VENICE THE CROSSROADS OF HISTORY

SEPTEMBER 8-24, 2019 TOUR LEADER: DR NICK GORDON

VIENNA TO VENICE Overview THE CROSSROADS OF HISTORY

The land between Vienna and Venice is one of Europe’s great crossroads, Tour dates: September 8-24, 2019 where Mediterranean, ‘Eastern’ and northern European cultures have met, fought and exchanged goods and ideas. Successive empires have sought Tour leader: Dr Nick Gordon control of the region – Romans, Charlemagne and the Holy Roman Empire, Austria and Venice – each building glorious monuments to their Tour Price: $8,230 per person, twin share rule.

Single Supplement: $1,830 for sole use of But they also brought with them the conflicts that have riven the region, double room from the ‘barbarian’ migrations that precipitated the fall of Rome to the tragic fighting of WWI along the mountainous border between Austria and Booking deposit: $500 per person Italy.

Recommended airline: Emirates or Qatar The number of cultures that have called this place home has also led to the creation of interesting fusions, which run across the borders rulers Maximum places: 20 have tried to enforce over the centuries, such as the Latin-writing Longobards of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia (today an autonomous region of Italy), the Venetian towns of the Istrian coast, and , Austria’s main Itinerary: Vienna (3 nights), Graz (2 nights), Mediterranean port until the end of . Ljubljana (4 nights), Trieste (4 nights), Venice (3 nights) This new 17-day tour takes you along these crossroads of history, from Imperial Vienna, to southern Austria, Ljubljana, Trieste and on to Venice. Date published: November 29, 2018 The backdrop to the fascinating history of the region is spectacular, − from Austrian mountains to the forests of Slovenia and Mediterranean coastline – and full of surprises, from exceptional prehistoric archaeology, including the world’s oldest musical instrument, medieval Armenian manuscripts in Venice, Roman archaeology at Aquileia and on the Croatian coast, and exceptional food and wine, reflecting the fusion of Austrian, Italian and Slavic traditions.

Your tour leader

Dr Nick Gordon holds a University Medal and a PhD in history from the University of Sydney, has taught university history courses for 10 years, and regularly lectures for Hazelhurst Regional Art Gallery, the Nicholson Museum, and for Academy Travel’s lecture programs in Sydney and Melbourne. Nick is also an artist, and brings this deep knowledge of art to his tours.

Nick designs and leads history, art and culture tours for Academy Travel to Italy, Europe, Scandinavia and Australia. He has led tours for Academy Enquiries and Travel since 2007. bookings “Nick is the consummate tour leader and provided us with a trip For further information and to rich in experiences. His in-depth knowledge of the history and culture of secure a place on this tour the region and especially his understanding of art made this a great please contact Rebecca learning experience. He remained calm and focussed on the job Fussell at Academy Travel on throughout while remaining sensitive to everyone’s needs, and we hope to 9235 0023 or 1800 639 699 travel with him again.” (outside Sydney) or email [email protected]. – Feedback from Florence, Ravenna & Venice, April 2018. au

Tour Highlights

VIENNA’S ROYAL COLLECTIONS Vienna has exceptional collections of fine and decorative arts. Enjoy a guided tour of the Museum of Fine Arts, with masterpieces by Titian, Caravaggio, Breughel and Vermeer, the Imperial Treasury, where imperial regalia and other masterpieces are kept, and the stunning work of Nicholas of Verdun, the finest goldsmith of the Middle Ages, in Klosterneuberg.

LJUBLJANA Ljubljana is a delightful European capital, with cafes lining the riverfront, Art Nouveau architecture and unexpected gems in its museums, including the world’s oldest musical instrument – a 60,000-year-old flute – and the oldest surviving wheel. It is a perfect base for exploring Slovenia and its fascinating history, large enough to be convenient and small enough to be unhurried.

LAKE BLED AND POSTOJNA Slovenia is the greenest country in Europe – 70% of it is covered by forests, which cascade down the mountainsides to the lakes and rivers of the valleys. Discover the natural beauty of Slovenia, from the fairytale castle, island- monastery and pristine alpine setting of Lake Bled, to the spectacular karst cave system at Postojna.

EUROPEAN ARCHAEOLOGY Few areas of Europe have such extensive archaeological collections, from Neanderthals, to Celts, Romans, barbarians and Byzantines. In addition to fine collections in museums, the tour visits the Roman remains at Aquileia and , Byzantine churches, and the best-preserved art and architecture of the Longobards, who ruled Italy after the fall of the Roman Empire, at Cividale del Friuli.

PRIVATE VISIT OF ST MARK’S BASILICA After dark, when the crowds have gone home, is the best time to visit St Mark’s Basilica. Sit back and relax on our private visit, and watch as the lights come on to illuminate the hectares of golden mosaics. Then, explore the basilica with expert guidance to help you see more and in a much more enjoyable way.

Detailed itinerary

Included meals are shown with the symbols B, L and D.

Tour start & finish time

The tour begins at 4.30pm in Vienna on Sunday 8

September, at the Hotel Royal.

The tour ends after breakfast at the Hotel Al Codega on Tuesday 24 September.

Sunday 8 September Arrival The tour begins in the hotel in the late afternoon, when we meet in the hotel for a stroll, followed by dinner in a local restaurant. (D)

Monday 9 September Imperial Vienna Vienna became the capital of the Holy Roman Empire in the 15th century and remained the capital of one of Europe’s largest Above: The entry to the Hofburg, the Imperial Palace of the empires until the end of World War I. Today we explore the Habsburg emperors. A palace was first built here in the 13th century, history of imperial Vienna, starting with a guided walking tour of as a residence for the Duke of Austria, and today it is the the old town, including St Stephen’s Cathedral and the Hofburg Presidential Palace Palace complex. After a break for lunch, we visit the Imperial Crypt, where more than 100 members of the Habsburg family Below: One of Arcimboldo’s portraits in Vienna’s Kunsthistorisches are buried, and then the stunning collection of decorative and Institute. Arcimboldo was one of the favourite painters of Rudolph II, fine arts in the Imperial Treasury, which has, among many other one of the most liberal emperors of the Renaissance treasures, the Imperial Regalia. In the evening, we meet for a welcome dinner in a superior local restaurant. Overnight, Vienna. (B, D)

Tuesday 10 September The Museum of Fine Arts and Klosterneuberg The imperial ambitions of the Habsburgs are no better realised than in their extraordinary art collections and extensive building programs. This morning, after a talk in the hotel, we visit the Museum of Fine Arts, which is home to one of the world’s premier collections of Old Masters. These masterpieces reflect the cultural influences on the Habsburg dynasty, from Renaissance Italian masters, including Titian, Caravaggio and Giorgione, to Flemish and Golden Age Dutch works, by Pieter Breughel the Elder, Rembrandt and Vermeer. In the mid- afternoon, we visit Klosterneuberg. This stunning abbey-castle complex was founded in the 12th century by Duke Leopold III of Swabia, the ruler of Austria, who was later canonised and became Austria’s patron saint. We tour the abbey and its many wonders, including the extraordinary 12th-century altarpiece by Nicholas of Verdun, the finest goldsmith of the Middle Ages. Returning to the hotel, the evening is at leisure. Overnight, Vienna. (B)

Wednesday 11 September Southern Austria

Austria’s control over its empire was always fraught, requiring careful negotiation with regional lords, maintenance of Europe’s border with the Ottoman Empire and, later, emerging nation states. Today we leave the centre of the empire and travel south to Styria, once a semi-autonomous duchy and now divided between Austria and Slovenia, and for centuries the bastion of Austria’s border with the Ottoman Empire. We explore the region’s history today, including the impressive Riegersburg Castle which dominates the plain and hills of Southern Austria, and lunch at a winery in one of Austria’s premier wine regions. In the late-afternoon, we continue on to Graz. Overnight, Graz. (B, L)

Thursday 12 September Graz Graz, the capital of Styria since the late Middle Ages, is one of Austria’s most beautiful cities, possessing the elegance of Salzburg, but without its perennial crowds. Today we explore Graz, beginning with a walking tour of its UNESCO World Heritage-listed Old Town, and ending with a visit to the Zeughaus. Its historical armoury is the largest in the world, and charts the development of arms and armaments from the 15th to 18th century, including numerous finely-wrought suits of armour and some of the best surviving examples of early gunsmithing. After a break for lunch, we visit the Eggenberg Palace, one of the finest examples of Austrian baroque architecture and a UNESCO heritage site. Returning to Graz, the evening is at leisure. Overnight, Graz. (B)

Friday 13 September Gurk and Southern Austrian Alps Above: The vineyards and beautiful landscape of Styria and the Today we take a scenic journey through Southern Austria to impressive Riegersberg Castle, which dominates the region that used Slovenia. Our first stop is Gurk Abbey, the finest Romanesque to be Austria’s border with the Ottoman Empire building in Austria. The abbey was founded in the 12th century Below: The wonderful painting and stucco of the Eggenberg Palace, in honour of St Hemma of Gurk, who had endowed a nunnery one of the finest pieces of Austrian baroque architecture and decoration there with some of her family’s extensive landholdings from the time of Charlemagne. We continue through the region towards the border of Slovenia, stopping to visit the alpine lakes near Klagenfurt, before continuing through the scenic mountain passes and forests into Slovenia. Arriving in Ljubljana in the late afternoon, there is time to relax before dinner at a local restaurant. Overnight, Ljubljana. (B, D)

Saturday 14 September Ljubljana Ljubljana is a delightful European capital, with cafes along the riverfront, playful Art Nouveau architecture and some exceptional museums. This morning we take a walking tour of the historic centre, before visiting the City Museum, which in addition to holding the city’s Roman archaeological collection also contains the world’s oldest surviving wheel. In the afternoon, we visit the National Museum, whose excellent pre- history collection includes a 60,000-year-old Neanderthal flute, the oldest known musical instrument in the world. In the mid- afternoon, there is time to visit the National Gallery, or simply

relax and enjoy the atmosphere along the riverfront. Overnight Ljubljana. (B)

Sunday 15 September Novo Mesto Slovenia’s history as a crossroads of cultures extends well back into European pre-history, and the country has some staggering finds in its museums. Today we make a day trip to Novo Mesto, a pretty historic town nestled in a bend of the Krka River, near the Croatian border. After touring the town, we visit the museum, which preserves exceptional collections from the Hallstat culture – the pre-Celtic culture of Europe best known for its metalwork and glass and amber jewellery – along with Greek vases and helmets, and show the region’s significance as the trade nexus between the Mediterranean and northern Europe. Returning to Ljubljana in the mid-afternoon, the evening is at leisure. Overnight, Ljubljana. (B)

Monday 16 September Lake Bled Lake Bled is spectacularly beautiful, with the Triglav Mountain range providing an ideal setting for the lake, monastery and castle. In the late 19th century, when the Austrians built the railway from Vienna to Trieste, the quiet medieval stronghold Above: The quiet town centre of Novo Mesto, nestled in a bend of the river Krka, near the Croatian Border and some of the exceptional grew into a spa town and it retains this ambience to this day. jewellery discovered in the region from the Hallstat (pre-Celtic) period Today we take a day trip to Lake Bled, visiting the castle for its superb views and crossing the lake to the island on a traditional boat. In the afternoon we visit the Vintgar Gorge, a little north of Below: The pristine Vintgar Gorge, hidden away in the mountains just Bled, to enjoy more of Slovenia’s natural beauty. Returning to outside Lake Bled Ljubljana, the evening is at leisure. Overnight, Ljubljana. (B)

Tuesday 17 September Postojna Caves and the castles of Predjama and Miramare Slovenia’s natural beauty is not limited to a single type of environment. As we travel south today, we move into a geologically very different region, known best for its karst caves. The beauty of this environment is revealed underground, when we visit Postojna cave – by cave train and on foot − with its kilometres of spectacular limestone formations and its ‘human fish’, a rare species of salamander which inhabits the caves of Slovenia. After a break for lunch, we visit Predjama Castle, which is perfectly situated halfway up a mountain at the entrance to another cave system. In the mid-afternoon, we continue to Trieste, stopping to visit Castello Miramare, a castle and garden designed for the Habsburg Prince Maximillian as a holiday residence by the sea. Dinner in a local restaurant. Overnight, Trieste. (B, D) Wednesday 18 September Trieste Trieste became part of Italy after World War I; before this it had been the main Adriatic port of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The city retains its ‘Austria by the sea’ feel, although the fusion of Germanic and Italian cultures is equally present, as is the lingering sense of it as an international city, influencing generations of authors, from James Joyce to Jan Morris. Today we explore the history of Trieste on a guided walking tour of the city. In the afternoon we visit the excellent Revoltella Museum, a modern art gallery bequeathed to the city in the early 20th century and modernised by Carlo Scarpa. The later afternoon and evening are at leisure. Overnight, Trieste. (B)

Thursday 19 September Cividale del Friuli and the Isonzo Italy’s north-eastern border has long been contested, from the arrival of ‘barbarians’ in the late Roman Empire to the fierce fighting of the Austro-Italian front in World War I. This morning we visit Cividale del Friuli, a beautifully preserved city on the hill guarding the mountain passes into Italy, which became the first duchy of the Longobards. We visit the oldest surviving Above: Canale Grande – the centre of historic Trieste Longobard art and architecture at Santa Maria in Valle, and the National Archaeological Museum of Friuli, which has the world’s finest collection of Longobard material culture. After a break for lunch, we travel over the mountain pass to Kobarid – Caporetto, in Italian – the site of the battle that resulted in the collapse of Below: The Byzantine mosaics of the Euphrasian Basilica at Porec, the Italian Front in 1917, as immortalised by Hemingway. From which would inspire the Venetians Kobarid we travel along the Isonzo valley to Gorizia, also the location of intense fighting by alpine troops from 1915-18. On return to Trieste, the evening is at leisure. Overnight, Trieste. (B)

Friday 20 September : Pula and Porec The strategic importance of the Istrian Peninsula has made it a lynchpin for successive empires – Roman, Byzantine, Venetian, Austrian and Italian − that have sought control of the east-west passage across the Adriatic. Successive layers of civilisation are everywhere apparent along the stunning, rugged coastline. Today we explore Istria, visiting Pula, whose extensive Roman remains are among the best preserved in the northern Mediterranean, and discovering two wonderfully preserved Byzantine monuments: the chapel of Santa Maria Formosa in Pula and the Euphrasian Basilica at Porec. These towns are not just exceptional for their Roman and Byzantine past, but also for how well-preserved the town centres are from the Venetian period, giving great insight into the expansion of the Venetian empire in the Middle Ages. Returning to Trieste, the evening is at leisure. Overnight, Trieste. (B)

Saturday 21 September Aquileia and Palmanova Aquileia was one of the largest cities in the Roman Empire, and it was the jumping-off point for Roman expansion towards the Balkans and the Pannonian Plain. It was, however, also right in the path of the waves of ‘barbarians’ entering Italy from the 4th- 7th centuries. Today we visit Aquileia, to visit the Patriarchal Basilica with its Roman mosaic floor and the recently renovated National Archaeological Museum, which has one of the finest collections of Roman glass in the world. In the afternoon, we continue on to Venice, stopping to visit Palmanova, a 16th- century Venetian fortress town, whose distinctive star shape has been preserved. Arriving in Venice in the late afternoon, the evening is at leisure. Overnight, Venice. (B)

Sunday 22 September Venice and the East For most of its history, Venice has faced the eastern Mediterranean, as a source of wealth, cultural influence and migration. Today we explore Venice’s relationship to the east, with a walking tour of the Castello district, long associated with Venice’s ‘Greek’ – ie eastern Mediterranean – populations, and today home to exceptional works by Carpaccio, Bellini and Cima da Conegliano. The afternoon is at leisure. In the early evening we meet at the hotel for a private guided visit of St Mark’s Basilica, whose hectares of golden mosaic are brilliantly illuminated for us. Overnight, Venice. (B)

Monday 23 September San Lazarro degli Armeni This morning we have a private guided visit of San Lazzaro degli Armeni, a quiet monastery island that was given over to Armenian monks in the 18th century. Today it has an excellent collection of art and antiquities in its eclectic museum and a fabulous display of manuscripts. We then take a walking tour of the Lido, which was transformed from a beachside village into a spa town at the end of the 19th century, when it became one of the most fashionable places for Europe’s upper classes to enjoy the waters. The afternoon is at leisure, and you may want to visit the excellent, but little visited, Correr Museum, or take in the superb modern art collection at the Peggy Guggenheim Museum. In the evening, we meet for a farewell dinner in an fine Venetian restaurant. Overnight, Venice. (B, D) Hotels Tuesday 24 September Departure  Vienna, Hotel Royal (3 nights) www.kremslehnerhotels.at/de/hotel-royal-wien/ The tour ends in the hotel after breakfast this morning. There is a group transfer to the airport available for those taking early  Graz, Hotel Weitzer Graz (2 nights) afternoon flights. Please check your individual travel www.hotelweitzer.com/en/ arrangements. (B)  Ljubljana, Hotel Slon (4 nights) www.hotelslon.com/en-gb/

 Trieste, Hotel Continentale (4 nights) www.continentalehotel.com

Right: Looking along the Grand Canal to Santa Maria della  Venice, Hotel Al Codega (3 nights) Salute, Venice’s greatest baroque church; and the beautiful www.hotelalcodega.com/ crystalline stillness captured by Giovanni Bellini in the altarpiece he painted for San Zaccaria, Venice

Tour Price Fitness Requirements

The tour price is $8,230 per person, twin share (land content of THIS tour only). The supplement for a single room is $1,830 per person. A non-refundable deposit of $500 per person is required to GRADE TWO secure a place on the tour. It is important both for you and for your fellow travellers that you are fit enough to be able to enjoy all the activities on this Tour Inclusions tour. To give you an indication of the level of physical fitness required to participate on our tours, we have given them a Included in the tour price star grading. Academy Travel’s tours tend to feature extended walking tours and site visits, which require greater  16 nights’ accommodation at four-star hotels fitness than coach touring. We ask you to carefully consider  Breakfasts, lunches and dinners in hotels and local your ability to meet the physical demands of the tour. restaurants as indicated in the itinerary by (B), (L), (D)  Land travel by air-conditioned coach Participation criteria for this tour  Services of an Australian tour leader throughout the tour  Extensive tour notes This Grade Two tour is designed for people who lead active  All entrance fees to sites mentioned on itinerary lives and can comfortably participate in up to five hours of  Services of a local guide at selected sites physical activity per day on most days, including longer  Porterage of one piece of luggage at the hotel walking tours, challenging archaeological sites, climbing  Tips to local guides and drivers stairs, embarking and disembarking trains and/or boats, and a more demanding tour schedule with one night stops or Not included several internal flights.  International air fares, taxes and surcharges (see below) You should be able to:  Travel insurance  keep up with the group at all times  Meals not mentioned in itinerary  walk for 4-5 kilometres at a moderate pace with only  Expenses of a personal nature short breaks  stand for a reasonable length of time in galleries and museums Air travel OPTIONS  tolerate uncomfortable climatic conditions such as cold, humidity and heat The tour price quoted is for land content only. For this tour we  walk up and down slopes recommend Emirates or Qatar which offer flights into Vienna  negotiate steps and slopes on archaeological sites, and out of Venice from most Australian cities. Please contact which are often uneven and unstable us for further information on competitive Economy, Business  get on and off a large coach with steep stairs, train or and First Class airfares. Transfers between airport and hotel boat unassisted, possibly with luggage are included for all passengers booking their flights through  move your luggage a short distance if required Academy Travel. These may be group or individual transfers. A note for older travellers Enquiries & bookings If you are more than 80 years old, or have restricted mobility, it is highly likely that you will find this itinerary challenging. For further information and to secure a place on this tour You will have to miss several activities and will not get the full please contact Rebecca Fussell at Academy Travel on 9235 value of the tour. Your booking will not be accepted until after 0023 or 1800 639 699 (outside Sydney) or email you have contacted Academy Travel to discuss your situation [email protected] and the exact physical requirements of this tour. While we will do our best to reasonably accommodate the physical needs of all group members, we reserve the right to refuse bookings Weather on Tour if we feel that the requirements of the tour are too demanding for you and/or if local conditions mean we cannot reasonably September is the perfect time to travel in this region, with accommodate your condition. average highs in the low to mid 20s, and overnight lows in the mid-teens. It is generally dry, but there are usually still some afternoon storms. The final week of the tour also marks the traditional beginning of the wine harvest and the arrival of autumn colour. About Academy Travel Each year Academy Travel organises around 60 journeys to Europe, the Mediterranean, Asia and the Americas, each focusing on a distinctive historical, artistic or cultural theme. The aim of every Academy Travel journey is to combine the pleasures of independent travel with the benefits and shared enjoyment of a group. Academy Travel is an Australian-owned travel company, founded in 2004. The company’s staff includes both academic experts and travel professionals with over two decades’ industry experience. We also have our own office in Rome which organises our tours in Western Europe. This means we have direct control over the selection of hotels, restaurants, coaches and local guides, guaranteeing superior quality.

Great itineraries Academy Travel works hard to create itineraries that provide a balanced experience – walking tours, museum and gallery visits, live performances, city and countryside. We’re proud to be constantly innovating, from opening up new destinations, creating tours around festivals and special exhibitions, to providing unrivalled depth in our residential tours.

Like-minded groups Over the years we’ve been in operation, we’ve developed a loyal band of Academy Travellers, some of whom have travelled with us more than 10 times. They say the small groups (maximum 20, average 17) and distinct themes of our tours attract like-minded travellers and create a relaxed, convivial atmosphere.

Long stays Feedback from our clients consistently tells us that creating itineraries with three and four-night stops, or even longer, is far more appealing that rushing from place to place. Wherever possible, we plan our tours around a limited number of stops, making your travels more relaxed and more meaningful.

Special Events A private viewing of the Sistine Chapel? Tickets to a sold-out concert by the Berlin Philharmonic? A world- famous art fair? Access to private homes and gardens? Behind-the-scenes visits? Many of our tours feature access to places and events that are usually not offered on most group tours.

Expert tour leaders We work closely with a team of academically qualified and highly experienced tour leaders. They don’t just ‘rattle off the facts’ – they help us plan our itineraries and, on tour, freely share their deep knowledge and genuine passion. Most of our tour leaders are still teaching at an advanced level and many are still undertaking academic research.

Years of experience Academy Travel was founded in 2004 by a team with decades of prior experience in small group travel. On average, our tour leaders have over 11 years’ experience, some with 25 or more years. To ensure quality, we have our own office in Rome, Italy and a network of trusted suppliers around the world.

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