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O F T HE P R ESENT

S F A S H I O N ,

W I TH T HE

SQ UAR E RULES

A N D

VARIATIO NS

TO FIT THE H MAN HAP U S E.

J MES G . W SON BY A IL ,

O TE ACHER O F T HE ART F CUTTIN G .

f 2 SOU THER N DI STR I C T o r NEW -Y R K O a . , s

e 1t e e be e o t fJa nua r A . D B r r n he 1 1th d a o . L S m m d , that y y, 1827 m the 5 1s t e ofthe e e e e o fthe Umt e d St e , y ar ind p nd nc at s W ofAmenc a J me G . l o ofthe s a nd d ls tnct d e os nted m , a s i s n , , hath p thls office the t ltle o fa book the n h t w e e o he cla i ms ro n e , g h r f as p p “ tor m the word s follo w m to t z Re o t ofth e P e e t F a shlons , g , p r r s n , Wl lh the S e R le Va rmtlons to fit m n e B quar u s and the Hu a Shap . y ” W IISOD Te e o fthe o t nfrmxt o J e G . r Art fC u tm . In co o t am s ’ ach g y “ the Act o fC o e ofthe U ite d s t e s ent ltle d Ah Act for the n gr ss n ta , en o e e ofLe a rmn b e n the o e ofMa s C c urag m nt g, y s curi g c m s p , harts, Book s to the o ro n etors o f cfl e s durm the and , auth rs and p p such p g , g ” “ t And a lso Act e ntl tled A h 3. t s i e t e e n e o e . c u t m h r i m n i n d an , , p le m e nt a r to Act e ntl tled a nAct fo r the e o g e ent ofLe m p y an , nc ura m a in b s e curm the o l e o fMa s C t Book s te t he g , y g c p s p , har s , and ,

o ro rletors of op e d urt n t he e there men th rs and p p such c i s, g tim s m tloned a nd e x te th e bene fits t e e o ft o the a n s o fdes n nm eh , nding h r g g , ” q ra vm e tchm hl a ton c a l o t e : rmt . g g, and g and h p A DILL J MES , w K C lerk ofthe South ern s trtct ofNe Yor . PREFACE.

T HIS Report of the present Fashions is respect full t o y presented the trade by the subscriber , with the belief that it Will prove useful to them in many respects . It consists of twelve litho graphic prints ,

s E . Minister imilar to those publish ed by , of London ;

d own v a rule sheet , on Which are laid arious dia n gram s , intended to explain and sim plify the scie ce of cutting , accompanied by appropri ate rules , and concludes With some m o difi ca tio ns and improve ments of the reports as communicated by E. Minis

. ter . It is believed that if the rule Which is herein suggested for procuring the position and attitude in in all cases is founded truth , the Whole science of cut t ing correctly is reduced Within a very narrow com pass , and may be u nderstood in a short time . The Reports of Minister being o nly in the possession o f

a few , and unaccompanied With drafts or rules , I was induced to believe that I should perform an a o

cep t a ble service by im proving , republishing , and combining With them a c o ncise treatise on the art

of cutting , Which I have now the honor of present

ing to the trade .

J . G. WILSON.

ew York J a nua r 18 . N , y , 27 ‘ . . l f J G . b e s e a ve m s W g to in or the trade , that thi

l e - c o n work Wi l be published s mi annually , and Will s ist of a printed Report ; twelve elega ntly designed

fi ure s s t and executed g , uperbly coloured ; a Rule shee

s v a containing several di a grams , repre enting all the ria tio ns in n cutti g , and explained by appropriate

Rules . The ne x t Report Will m ake its appearance

t Lo nd on immediately af er the arrival of the fashions . The w o rk will be forwarded to subscribers W ithout

. Book S delay It may also be had at the tore of A.

- 4 B . T . 12 Y Su b scr Goodrich , roadway , New ork ip 1 0 tion price $ per annum , payable in advance . Sin 6 2 gle copy $ ; if coloured , dollars advance on each copy . RULES, 85 0 .

HE is T g reat desideratum in cutting a garment , to establish so me general rule for ascertaining the posi sitio n of a man in all cases ; no method having hit h erto been adopted for meeting the variations Which

o f constantly occur , except the arbitrary judgment t the cutter , frequently incorrec and liable to error , fro m having no other guide but memory to aid him

O n in his perations . In conseque ce of this , it often happens that a coat Will bind one under the arm ,

off wrinkle on the shoulders , swing at the sides , hang

misfit re , back too much behind , and in m an y other

s e c t s . diffi cultie s p To obviate these , I recom mend the following method of ascertain i ng the positi o n of M " a man . ake a standard of seven feet in length , and about one and a half inches thick , With slides attached to it ; let the standard be divided into inches and half inches , place it behind the man , touching the mos t prominent parts of the hip and shoulder let the man stand easy , and the slide settle to the top 68 17 of his head If he is inches high , then inches

u n Will be one fo rth of his le gth , which would be a correct length o fthe waist of the coat in all cases ; 1 7 inches and one eighth of the breast would be the length of the skirt of the coat : then measure the dis

Let e e b e tt e d to 112two ro - ie e a t th in w th r a ach c ss p c s , e po ts h er e it me et the hm d o l e v i e ll e w to f n s an sh u d r , ha ng ach a sma scr as t e t h em a t a n v l e y g i en p ace ; and let th b ottom ofthe stan dard be s upp ort e d b r y p op er feet. A 2 x 6 tance from the standard to the back of the neck above the collar likewise measure to the h o llow o f

r 2 1 -2 the back . If he measu es inches at each place ,

fi rst . then Rule hereinafter laid down , Will apply If

fi v e i he measures nches at the neck , and the shoulders

d R . set somewhat forward , the secon ule Will apply If he is 2 1 -2i nches in the hollow of the back and

- l 1 2 1 t neck . a nd u se t c a the , his sho lders well ba k , then the third Rule Will give the proper instructions

M m a n and in this ratio for other variations . easure a — — : l st t s Qd a rm Sd as follows , hi length , length of ,

~ — round the breast 4th round the waist ; the two last yo u measure under th e ~co a t .

RULE I.

34 If the man measures inches round the breast , th e n 1 7 inches or one h a lf~o f34 would be e a l led t h e breast measure ; and this is divided into

u t hirt se o halves , fo rths , eighths , sixteenths , y c nd s

S lx t fo urth s : t and y hen it is again divided into thirds , f twe nt o urth s . sixths , twelfths , and y The back of

o - S G the c at is represented on Rule heet by letter , and in cutting it you Will commence a t the head of

l o r o the c oth , at the right hand end , as the wo l ru ns

o o to the left When placed on the c unter bef re you . L a y on y ou r square at the hip one e i ghth from th e e dg e then draw your line fr o m 1 to 3 : lay o n y o ur meas

nd o : o 1 ‘2 tire a dot it as foll ws fr m to , one eighth

3 o ne o n o from 1 to , third ; then lay y ur square and

— ' a ou 3 5 o ne h o m 5 t o dr w y r l ine from to , thi rd 4 , wm g g it a spring , a s represented on the diag ram ; the side seam is swept 5 7 from to by the length of the waist .

O F T H E F OR E PART .

S o ( e e diagram marked F on Rule Sheet . C m mence at th e O pposite side of the cloth fro m whe re i theri 1 2 — o you cut the back , from to , one sixth fr m

2 to 3 o ne t h ii d in 2d — 3 4 , , lack g one 3 from to , one

IQt li — 1 2 3 4 then the square is applied at , , and , and a m the straig ht lines dr wn across as represented , fro 3 5 24t h— 5 6 — 6 7 to , one from to , one third from to ,

24t h— 6 t o 8 ‘ — l 21 o ne one from , one half from to ,

d— 21 10 o ne th— 9 t o 19 thir from to , fi from , one fo t u th— fro ni 20 12 — 12 13 o ne to , one sixth fi om to

32d - 13 16 th— 1 5 14 from to one 6 from to , one

i- fi o ln 153 1 7 e i ht h w fi o m 14 t o 13 IS hal to , one g swept With the h alf of the breast ; the side seam is swept by the len g th of itself ; the rounding part of 1 the breast is swept from 3 and 9 . Swee p from 0

13 la e ile and , and this Will give you the length of the p

i 1- off th e by add ng 2 inch . Slope the upper part of

h i n W s irt front as represented by small dots , this ill make the c o at set much smoother o ver the front

r h . 21 12 pa t of the ip D raw your line from to , and

t of WI11 from hence to the bottom the skirt , and this

o h la e lle give the exact spring . One f urt from the p se a tm will give the front edge of the skirt ; one third and o ne 24t h gives the Width of the b ott o m o f the s kirt .

z o t h e o u T o get the si e of the c at at waist , lay on y r

o 15 S m t o measure fr m at the ide sea the front, taking

off W111 S z r . one eighth , and this give the exact i e ound PE I W R S DE SLEE VE .

See m H. 1 2 one 16th ( diagram arked ) From to ,

- o 1 3 o n — 3 4 32d fr m to , e fourth from to , one froz n 4 6 o ne — 6 5 t — to , half from to . one hird from

9 13 o ne a nd t h— 10 1 1 to , third one from to , one

' e — m 10 12 e i 24th ighth fro to , one and one from 5 sweeps the top of the sleeve and gives the point in front for the under part of the sleeve the upper dotted line is raised to g ive x m o re full ness over t he

s o t h e v s out . h ulder , as slee e are very large and full

m - . r 2 8 e i h th 6 Under sleeve F om to , one g from to — 7 24th m 7 8 . , one fro and gives one half of the scye

RULE II .

In cutting the back of a coat for a round shouldered

Wh o 5 man measures inches in at the neck , proceed

o : G . 1 3 as f llows (See diagram ) From to , one 64t h— 3 5 third and one from to , one third and one — 64t h 4 t o 5 64th . from , one eighth and one Cut the side seam a little straighter than is laid d o wn in Rule fi rst . If a man be very r o und on the shoul

“ ders s o that he Will measure 6 or 8 inches in at the

k w e “ a nec , and his shoulders set forw rd , then you cut the back rounding fro m fi g ure one down the back

o - o a little bel w the scye g rge . If his neck is very

o t sh r and his shoulders set very much forward , then 5 4 24 th— from to , one eighth and one this Will sh o r ten the shoulder seam , and reduce the width of the sho ulders . FO RE PART .

See 5 ( diagram F . ) The distance being inches

3 4 12 o ne as in Rule second , then from to , one th and 64 th— 5 6 32d— 2 from to , one third and one from to 18 d— 1 10 , one sixth and one 32 from 2 to add one

32d . 6 8 If the distance be or inches as above , then

2 t o 18 24th t he from , one sixth and one , and drop

o o th e scye in the same pr p rtion . In hollowing out n t a IS d’ n eck , you Will take out a lit le more th n lai dow

- th in the fi rst Rule . If he me asure 3 1 2 inches at e

a 12 13 32d o b ck , then add from to , one m re than prescribed by Rule fi rst . If a man is as large round 1 h the waist as round the breast , and measures inc

n 20 12 o ne s in at the back , the from to , eighth ; thi — 1 21 Will bring the point of the side seam from to , 3d 32d m one , lacking one taking the distance in fro

12 w e 20 to , one sixth , ould give the pr per spring ; 12 16 d from to , one eighth in other respects procee according to Rule fi rst .

RULE III .

G . (Figure ) If a man is very straight , his neck of an ordinary length , and his shoulders are set well back ,

1 3 o ne 64th— then from to , one third , lacking from 3

5 64th . W to , one third , l acking one hen you cut the

h e . back , hollow it a little between t shoulders

F O R E PART .

See F . 2 3 ( Figure ) From to , one third , lacking 24th— 3 4 12th 64th one from to , one , lacking one 10

" 3 5 32d— m 5 6 from to , one fro to , one third , lack

32d— 2 18 o ne ing one from to . sixth , lacking , one

32d— o 10 1 1 32d— 9 fr m to , one sixth and one from to 19 24th— l 21 , one eighth and one from to , one third a nd o ne 32d— l 10 from to , one third and one eighth , 2 lacking one 3 d . Sweep the side se am with the

o f a . off length the w ist In cutting the sleeve , take it a little more than usual from the shoulder seam to the centre of the under part . In other respects pro ceed a ccording to the directions laid down i n Rul e

fi rst .

V — E ST (See D ia g ra m P . )

Measure from the neck joint behind Where the shoulders and neck are connected , across the shoul ders down in front for the length , then round the breast and waist . If the measure round the breast 32 16 be inches , then inches Will be the breast mea sure . This is divided in the same manner as the coat measure . Commence as follows : D raw yo u r 1 2 line on the front edge of the cloth , from to one — — twelfth from 2 to 3 one fourth fr o m 2 to 4 — one half from 4 to 5 one eighth ; then draw

5 3 m 3 6 o 3 the line from to , fro to one f urth , from

3 12 7 t o to 7 one eighth , from to one fourth , from 8

1 1 9 One m 2 10 one half, from to third , fro to one 10 1 1 24t h third , from to one ; then lay on you r

7 o ff measure at , taking one eighth ; then proceed down to the length of the vest in front : fro m 3 to 13

a n gives the length of the back , adding half inch .

w a 2 r a n S eep t f om the lower point in front , d this 1 1

will give you the length o fthe side seam at 1 7 and the distance it is necessary to sl o pe it o ve rth e hips . If a

o ut m an is large and corpulent , bring the point at

o u 10 the bott m to the front line ; brin g p the neck to , and in that proportion for other variations .

' — BAC K O F A VEs r (See D ia g ra m L . )

— Fr o m 1 to 2 one eighth from 1 to 3 one third from 3 to 4 one eighth .

— SHO RT N E CK ED VE ST (See Fig ure U. )

‘ f 3 10 2 10 2, From to , one fourth ; at rom to sweeps the neck .

V T ROV S RRS .

Measure as follows : From th e hip bone to the

t o a o crease of the thigh , from thence the nkle b ne ; 2 a ll o w 3 inches at the top a bove the hip b o ne and at the bott o m ; this gives the length . Then mea

a nd k sure round the wa i st , the thigh , nee ; the l knee measure WI11 give the Width o fthe bo tt o m ; a

t h e k 3 lo w 3 a nd a h a l f ine h e s at nee , and inches

a nd rou nd the thigh , the same in front at the top for h the fulness : let the unde r p art project alf an inch

v o bey o nd the U pper p a rt . and this will gi e the f re

‘ o w m m p art ease and p revent the s i de seam fr m s g g

S a m a ft t h e a r r o u nd in fro nt . h p e the e r P tte n on

- Se e D a A I. the Rnle sheet . ( i g ram ) 12

FRO CK COAT AND SURTOUTS .

a nd For a Frock coat , measure round the breast — Waist under the c o at measure for a surtout over the coat : cut the back and body the same as d ress coats

t h e w out except neck , hich should be rather short er ; the neck of a double breast ed surtout coat to be swept

a the same as a military coat , adding one inch and

t o . half its length (Se e Fig . To get the proper

n o f c o r t o o h a g a fro k sur ut coat , proceed as foll ws

e f Se . o o ( Fig . M ) From the fr nt edge the coat to fig ure 1 g o in o ne 12th fr o m 5 to 6 one third and one eighth ; then d raw y o ur line on the front edge

e o ut o h of the cloth , Where you tak y ur s irt ; take the leng th of the skirt ; then lay o n yo ur fo re part above

om t fi u re 1 2 the skirt , so that the p at g and on

fi u re 1 o n the r the body , and g ski t , are in a per feet li ne ; t hen touch at fig u re 3 on the b o dy as far as it i s cut stra ight from 2 to 3 ; then draw

I 2 4 k re re the line from , , and on the s irt , as it is p

b A H : o I 2 sented V the diagram fr m to , one half

a o o o f : 4 3 the distance cr ss the t p the skirt from to ,

o ne 32d one eighth , lacking ; by making this raise

3 4 h a m from to , the s irt will h ng an elegant drapery

h l S . T o o u ove r the p get the s p ring , y will let the

o m t a t 4 b o d a nd o n 3 o n t p on the y , , the p i t at the skir

a nd o m t 2 o n b o d o touch , the p at the V t uch the line betw een 1 and 2 o n t h e sh irt : t hen draw y o ur line

o 6 t o 4 a nd s o o fr m , d wn the length of the sh i rt

7 o o o ft h from sweeps the b tt m e sk i rt . l n c utting

s k ir la v o r m e s u r o n a s u i d r the t , y u a e in c tt ng a ess '

Fi F 12 1 6 i h t ft h en coat , ( g , ) from to , one e g h lay 13 on your squa re p a rallel with the line drawn from 1 to

t Se e M ifit o n 7 , Figure , ) and brings the point in fr t a o it l o ff bove the square , or bel w , then you Wil take fr o m or add to the skirt in front as much as it raise s a b o ve or falls below the square ; this will give th e p roper spring in front . — MILITARY COAT (See D ia g ra m N .)

The back is out like th at of a dress coat , except th e o t h e l wer part , which is cut as represented on

fig ure .

—4— ' THE FORE PART (F zg ure

From 1 to 2 one 32d ; this sweeps the neck small circle : from 3 to 4 d o wn the shoulder one 5 third , sweeps the point in front at . 1

EA oo T— F GR T n ( ig m X. )

THE BACK .

F rom 1 to 2 one sixth from 1 to 3 o ne third from 3 to 4 one 24 th ; fro m 4 to 6 o ne third ; from 6 to 5 one eighth ; from 4 to 9 one sixth ; from 6 to 7 o ne 32d ; from 6 to 8 one third ; from 9 to 8 gives the

o o spring of the c at . If a man is large r und the waist , or very small , you will bring in the dotted line

8 o ut . from 7 to , or carry it , as the case may require

— T HE FOR E PART (See F ig u re W )

t he Draw a line on the front edge of the cloth , and t op line as represented fro m 2 t o 4 . From 1 to 2 B 14

f 998 half ; from2to 3 one third; rem3w4 one 24th ; 4 5 on 5 o n l from to e eighth ; from to 6 e third, ack ing one 32d ; fr om 6 to 7 one 12th ; from 6 t9 16 one third ; from 5 to 10 eye six; th ; from 10 to 11 one 32d ; from 12 to 13 one sixth ; from 12 t o 14 one eighth ; from 1 to 1 5 one fourth ; from6 to 8 o ne third and one 24th ; from 8 to 9 one 24th . If a m a n

in o 16 is slim round the waist , bring the d tted line at , and if large , carry it out farther .

— ‘ T O CUT THE C APE (St e D ia g ra m Y. )

Lay in the back of the coa t from t he edge of the cloth one 12th from 3 to 4 ; one 12th fro m 5 t o 4 ; one eighth a t 4 sweeps the bo tt om o fcapes : a t 5

o u neck of c at ; at 6 neck of cape . T his r le is su re to fi t in all cases .

’ H LADI ES ABIT S AND PELISSE S .

In m e a suring a lady you Will commence at the

w r back of the neck , at the Jo t whe e the neck and shoulder are connected ; then down the back the

o floo r : len gth of the waist ; fr m thence to the then ,

o f m o from th e place beginning , easure acr ss the shoulders to th e centre o fthe breast ; from thence to the bott o m Ofthe breast ; from thence to the length of the body of the habit below the breast ; then

fl t e down to the oor ; then round h w aist and breast . The waist measure is divided the same as that of the

b V it a coat , and the garment laid out inste d of the brea st me a sure . 15

See D ia ra m A C 1 In cutting the back , ( g ) from to 2 one eighth ; from 1 to 3 one half ; from 3 to 4 one h alf lacking one 24th ; from 4 to 5 one eighth ; 6 7 from to one eighth .

' O — F R E PART (F lg ure A B. )

From 1 to 2 one sixth and one 32d ; from 1 to 3 one half from 3 to 4 one fourth lacking one 32d fr o m 4 to 5 one eigh t h ; from 5 to 6 one eighth ; from 4 to 8 one fourth ; at 8 you place the seam of the sleeve ; at 5 sweeps the bottom o fthe scye ; from 2 to 7 one eighth ; from 1 to 9 the waist measure ; from

1 6 . 9 to 16 do . ; from 16 to 26 do . ; from to 2 do ; — from 9 to 10 one 32d this point sweeps the neck ; from 9 to 1 1 one fourth ; from 1 1 t o 12 one 12th ; from 10 to 13 one fourth ; from 15 to 14 one 24th ;

" fro m 16 to 17 one third ; from 17 to 18 one 24t h ;

1 1 4th : from 9 to 7 one 2 from 17 to 20 one sixth . 2 4 f 23 1 . 2 12 o , and , are swept from by the length the measure that is taken at the centre and bottom n n of the breast , and the le gth of the body by taki g

offthe Width of the back . The sleeve is represent

fi nre A D : A F A E ed by g and , the skirts of a ri

: A G . rule is din g habit , the collar This for a lady o measuring 8 inches more rou nd the breast than the

waist . If the measure round the breast be greater

ove or less than the ab , then you take out more or

18 19 be . less between an d , as the case may The breast measure is u sed to get the distance across the 14— 15 14 breast , which is at therefore from to it

will vary according to the si z e of the breast .

1 8

are placed a distance of 1 -4 ofthe brea st m ea sure — apart raw edges .

WAISTCOATS .

Made With step collars represented on Rule Sheet by J ; collar represented by K ; bound by narrow

galloon to match ; seven' buttons in front made v e

a ry long , and come to point in front , and slope ove r

the hips . Covered buttons gener a lly used of the s ame cloth .

PANTALOONS .

fit i a f l Cut to t ght from the knee to the ncle , and ul

n - i the thigh , With 3 buttons at bottom ; the fall down — is cut diagonally ; Width at top 2 inches from th e s m ea , three and three fourth inches at bottom ; nar

re l e se nt d e 2. row welt , as p e on Figur

T ROUSE RS .

Cut to reach the ancle bone ; l arge in the thigh ; g enerally full; pleated in front ; cut as rep resented by

Rule Shee t .

F O R CK COAT S .

M s o t fashionable colours , green and olive , or light

in fi ures blue made single breasted , as represented g

7 a nd 8 o f1 -2 ; collar , black velvet , With smal l step

t hef - - inch ; all down quite fla t to the stand u p . Col 19

- C . n 1 2 lar pattern represented by Length of eck , inch less than that of dress coats ; breast cut to fit close to the neck , and moderately easy at the full at

but tons in the breast , with seven front . The sleeve s and cuffs in all respe cts like those of dress coats ;

- o f Width of the back , and length of back scye , and the waist , are also same as dress coats ; skirts , two inches longer than dress coats , and very full , falling in an elegant drapery over the hips . They have side

fla s h 8 p in the s irts behind , about inches in length ,

fi u re 7 and with a point at bottom , as shewn in g ; fou r buttons behind— two at top and two at bottom no cross flaps ; skirts lined with silk to match .

DOUBLE BREASTED SURTOUT COAT S .

i s Colour , steel m xed , olive , and drab , of variou fl shades , with cross aps and pockets under ; cut as rep 10 o resented on Fig . 6 and ; c llars shorter than the frock coats , but in all other respects similar to them ; collar represented by letter D ; la p elle for do . by let

P fla . ter , and p by Q

S INGLE BREASTED SURTOUT S.

fi u re 5 fla s W 7 As represented by g , Without p , ith

o buttons in front , very short neck , collar very br ad ,

o and to g o cl o se to the neck . Collar pattern repr — sent ed by letter D rna d e in other respects the same as dress c o ats . 20

GREAT COATS .

W X. Cut as represented by and Three capes ,

n -u 7 na sta d p collar , buttons in front , strap behind fl der i a s . the cape , W th side p

” RIDING DRESS .

O S . l d C AT Colours , olive , brown , stee mixe , green ,

d o a n live ; made as represented in figure 1 1 . They button down the front to the waist ; ' 7 buttons in front of pl ain gilt or steel collar same a s dress coat ; skirts 3 inches shorte r than those of dress coats ;

W o f idth of skirts at bottom , one third and one sixth

fla s . W breast ; cross p . With pockets under idth of b - ack , length of neck , and of the back scye , the s am e a s dress coats .

SHOOTING F ROCK S .

Made of drab Barragan . They have cros s fla p s

u 9 3 1-2 h at waist abo t inches long and inches in dept ,

t e fl large pockets under , and , at h breast , cross ap s

1-4 un 2 inches deep , cut diagonally , With pockets der the collar represented by letter C The skirts two inches longer than those of the Riding Coat edges to meet in front ; made very full in the skirts ;

1 1-2 8 buttons in front , usually of pearl , of about W inches diameter . idth of back , length of neck , w k D — aist , and bac scye , the same as ress Coat rep resented on fig ure 12. 21

SH OOTING BREECHES .

a nd They are made very full in the thigh , tight at

a the knee , With four buttons plain convex gilt le ther strings . They are worn rather short at the knees ,

u the gaiters coming high p ; they are of light drab , — White or buffManchester cord long gaiters these

- are universally of tan leather .

YOUNG ’ GENTLEMEN S DRE SS .

J — s ackets single breasted ; three rows of button ,

ff d a t b plain gilt round cu , hollowe ottom , to come to a p om t in front and behind ; buttons placed about one inch apart .

o — a nd e T r wsers quite plain about the waist , loos all the way down to the bottom . See fig ure 9 .

’ CHILDREN S DRE SS .

Spanish dresses are much worn as a fi rst dre ss ; — they are made as follows th e body is cut separate fi t a from the frock or skirt , to simil r to a skeleton

v jacket , the slee es cut shapely to the arm , full on the

o f top , short back scye , narrow at top back and bot

tom of waist , the waist is made moderately long , the

width of the back , across the shoulders , half an inch more than one third of the breast the length of back

scye and width at top and bottom of the back , one twelfth of the bigness of breast ; it is cut Wide on the k shoulders , the nec close up to the gorge , With a lit

— - tle stand uncollar cut hollowed at the sewing ou 22

' m to l n o ff o part , to ad it of the p co lar standi g fr m the neck ; the collar is completely hid by the frill or shirt c la wh i m e o n S o e s 3 o ol r , ch is ad to fall the h uld r ; r ws

“ e is out n e of silk net b a ll buttons . The Jack t lo g r

‘ — than the length o fwa ist to a dmit of the trouser s but

a o t e s I w toning round the j cket , ab u thr e inche o e r

’ th an Wh e re the length oi wai st shapes to ; th e tro u se rs rather easy fr o m the to p of thi g h t o the bott om;

- plain at top ; they are closed up the fall d o wn seam ,

f ' except the necess a ry o pe ni ng a t th e crutch ; the seat seam is left open from the top ab o ut six inches down ,

‘ ’ to gi ve suffi cie nt e a se to a d mit of the letting down of the tro users ; the frock or skirt p a rt is ma de e ntirely

” s a ‘ rom ‘ ' a s ep rate f the jacket , and is merely traight

' ” o t o t o o v suffi en piece of cloth , cut r und the p , t gi e ci t fulnes s on the h ips and round the b ott om' o fskirt ; it

‘ is made suffi cie ntly Wi de to admit ofit S ’ being fulle d

or gathered behind , Within the space at the waist from side - seam to side - se a rn ; t he ed ges o fthe skirt

b o t meet at front at the waist , and open a little at the

s i t W tom ; the top of the k r is seamed to the belt , hich

‘ - 1 1 2 W a nd c . The is about inch ide , to bu kle at front

b th e tO d e colour is lue , of a light shade ; p e g of the

e to t he ofi th e o a ck e t belt is som times stitched body j ,

- withi n 2 inches of the front edge.

SK ELE TON DRE SSES .

’ Ja ke s— a e ' h rows o fbntto ns c t m d with t ree , small plai n gilt ba ll s; narrow st a nd-u p collatrto run rou nd at

o o “ : fr nt . Trousers to button n t he jacket ; colour

mo s worn blu ofl ht sha d h . tly w e , ig 23

D ’ P S‘ LA IES ELISSE .

The fash i o nable make of Pelisses is as shown on fi u r 4 . g e The m o st fashionable c o lours are th e Ma o G r on and reen . They are made as fo ll o ws : the waist very l o ng ; the fr o nt of the bo dy is made to fas~ ten With h o oks a nd eyes ; the collar is as pattern

m arked A G . The sleeves a re made ve ry large u p d war s , having a gre a t d egree of fulness gathered o n the shoulders ; and rather close from the el bow to the

‘ . o f t h s h o ul e rs is hand The Width back across e d , halfan inch m o re than one third of the breast . Length of the back scye 1 1-2 inch ; Width at top o f

a d W s 2 . m back n at the ai t , inches The side sea s are

o n a n o cut considerably the curve , d the sh ulder

. T e ou o seams straig ht h skirts are t l ng , to reach to

he t o e a d l d t p of th foot , n very fu l ; gathere a t the

a n o f4 . w ist behi d , within the space inches These

Pe h sse s re a quite plain , having neither buttons nor

braid o fany descripti o n . Fur is now u niversally

. o r S a dopted T he furs ad pted are G ey quirrel , back

o o o l ff ll . n OfCh i nchi t T hey are w rn the c l a r , c u , h f d o wn the front edges of the s irts , and a lounce

0 1 t ur o t e ff round the bottom . The depth the n h cu

of 2 is 3 inches , and on the front edges skirt inches ; ” 1 he fi o u nc e is s ax inches d eep .

Si lk Pe li s ses are no w as much or more w o rn than ’ ‘ o ft a d t uh t h e fo i ro m cloth . Some hem are m e at r nt ,

t o i t h e b o t o t u the p om os m the Waist , and con in e ’

h s i m t o . Blo u D r down the s i rts , ilar the L idies se ess

’ e ft 0 ! o t he ns IS m t o a o e s . T h e l skirt ade wr p ver

u a s lo t Fa u . about five inches . Colo rs same C h sses ‘ 24

’ LADIE S CLOAK S .

These Cloak s are genera lly worn : they are made

fi ve n b long , to Within inches of the grou d ; the ack m breadth is cut the full width of the cloth , p an d bott o m ; the front breadth at the neck is cut 9 inche s i n i t e a t 25 W dth across the p , the width bottom inch es v - o h ; they ha e arm h les left in the side seam , whic a re cut at ab o ut 1 1 inches distance fr o m the t o p o f c o a rm - o 1 s l ak , the length of hole is ab ut 0 inche ; they have a welt at the arm -hole ab o ut 1 1 -2 inch in

. a nd breadth , Which is seamed on the hind breadth

a T he se c lo a k s the ends t cked on the front breadth . are frequently trimmed ro und the edges and a rm-t

Chinch i li holes With or grey squirrel back fur , about

4 o o inches wide , th ugh s me are made plain they

‘ have nearly all a broad flounce of fur round t h e b o t tom ; the. neck is gathered in to the le ngth required

o n a for the collar ; the collar is fastend at fr t , with small Silk girdle ; the c loak is either lined with white silk serge or sarcenet . or the same to match . The c o lou rs Crimson or Maroon . T hese cloaks are made

wnth o 10 o to draw a sliding string , ab ut inches fr m the centre of the back ; they are generally made wi th two cape s .