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Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018
The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Front Cover Image: Textile Detail of an Evening Dress, circa 1950s, Maker Unknown, Middlesex University Fashion Collection, London, England, F2021AB. The Middlesex University Fashion Collection comprises approximately 450 garments for women and men, textiles, accessories including hats, shoes, gloves, and more, plus hundreds of haberdashery items including buttons and trimmings, from the nineteenth century to the present day. Browse the Middlesex University Fashion Collection at https://tinyurl.com/middlesex-fashion. The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Scott Hughes Myerly Proofreader Georgina Chappell Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2018 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit. -
A Plantation Family Wardrobe, 1825 - 1835
Virginia Commonwealth University VCU Scholars Compass Theses and Dissertations Graduate School 2010 A Plantation Family Wardrobe, 1825 - 1835 Jennifer Lappas Virginia Commonwealth University Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarscompass.vcu.edu/etd Part of the Theatre and Performance Studies Commons © The Author Downloaded from https://scholarscompass.vcu.edu/etd/2299 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at VCU Scholars Compass. It has been accepted for inclusion in Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of VCU Scholars Compass. For more information, please contact [email protected]. 1 The Carter Family Shirley Plantation claims the rightful spot as Virginia’s first plantation and the oldest family-run business in North America. It began as a royal land grant given to Sir Thomas West and his wife Lady Cessalye Shirley in 1613 and developed into the existing estate one can currently visit by 1725. The present day estate consists of the mansion itself and ten additional buildings set along a Queen Anne forecourt. These buildings include a Root Cellar, Pump House, two-story Plantation Kitchen, two story Laundry, Smokehouse, Storehouse with an Ice House below, a second Storehouse for grain, Brick Stable, Log Barn and Pigeon House or Dovecote. At one time the Great House was augmented by a North and a South Flanker: they were two free standing wings, 60 feet long and 24 feet wide and provided accommodations for visitors and guests. The North Flanker burned and its barrel-vaulted basement was converted into a root cellar and the South Flanker was torn down in 1868. -
The War and Fashion
F a s h i o n , S o c i e t y , a n d t h e First World War i ii Fashion, Society, and the First World War International Perspectives E d i t e d b y M a u d e B a s s - K r u e g e r , H a y l e y E d w a r d s - D u j a r d i n , a n d S o p h i e K u r k d j i a n iii BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK 1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA 29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published in Great Britain 2021 Selection, editorial matter, Introduction © Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian, 2021 Individual chapters © their Authors, 2021 Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Editors of this work. For legal purposes the Acknowledgments on p. xiii constitute an extension of this copyright page. Cover design by Adriana Brioso Cover image: Two women wearing a Poiret military coat, c.1915. Postcard from authors’ personal collection. This work is published subject to a Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial No Derivatives Licence. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third- party websites referred to or in this book. -
Hunting Shirts and Silk Stockings: Clothing Early Cincinnati
Fall 1987 Clothing Early Cincinnati Hunting Shirts and Silk Stockings: Clothing Early Cincinnati Carolyn R. Shine play function is the more important of the two. Shakespeare, that fount of familiar quotations and universal truths, gave Polonius these words of advice for Laertes: Among the prime movers that have shaped Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy, But not expressed infancy; history, clothing should be counted as one of the most potent, rich not gaudy; For the apparel oft proclaims the man.1 although its significance to the endless ebb and flow of armed conflict tends to be obscured by the frivolities of Laertes was about to depart for the French fashion. The wool trade, for example, had roughly the same capital where, then as now, clothing was a conspicuous economic and political significance for the Late Middle indicator of social standing. It was also of enormous econo- Ages that the oil trade has today; and, closer to home, it was mic significance, giving employment to farmers, shepherds, the fur trade that opened up North America and helped weavers, spinsters, embroiderers, lace makers, tailors, button crack China's centuries long isolation. And think of the Silk makers, hosiers, hatters, merchants, sailors, and a host of others. Road. Across the Atlantic and nearly two hundred If, in general, not quite so valuable per pound years later, apparel still proclaimed the man. Although post- as gold, clothing like gold serves as a billboard on which to Revolution America was nominally a classless society, the display the image of self the individual wants to present to social identifier principle still manifested itself in the quality the world. -
Yale Department of French News Fall 2018
yale department of french fall 2018 AS I PAUSE TO CONTEMPLATE the senior level as well, and we are hoping GREETINGS another busy and successful year in to have very exciting news to announce in the Yale Department of French, I am this regard shortly. FROM THE deeply grateful to everyone who made We were very happy to welcome back it possible. I am especially grateful to ALYSON WATERS to teaching this past CHAIR PIERRE SAINT-AMAND for agreeing year. As many of you know, in addition to to be the Director of Graduate Studies editing Yale French Studies, Alyson has a so soon after arriving at Yale, and for the thriving career as a translator. Now that extremely effective work he did preparing she is once again teaching her popular our students for the job market. I am courses on translation, we have been ALICE KAPLAN equally grateful to for able to add a translation track to our filling in for Pierre as DGS when he went undergraduate major. This year, we will TOM CONNOLLY on leave in the Spring. also experiment with two new courses on did a wonderful job during his two years French for the professions—one devoted as Director of Undergraduate Studies to medicine and one to business—which and will now be handing over the reins to will be taught by MORGANE CADIEU . I am happy to say our new lector, RUTH KOIZIM that has agreed to stay on LÉO TERTRAIN, as the director of our language program. (left)who joins Over the past year, we conducted a us fresh from th th major international open-rank search in the completing a PhD fields of 16 and/or 17 -century French at Cornell in 2016. -
Fashion, Fiction, and Femininity in Second Empire France
University of Pennsylvania ScholarlyCommons Publicly Accessible Penn Dissertations 2013 Designing Women: Fashion, Fiction, and Femininity in Second Empire France Sara Frances Phenix University of Pennsylvania, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations Part of the Other Languages, Societies, and Cultures Commons, and the Women's Studies Commons Recommended Citation Phenix, Sara Frances, "Designing Women: Fashion, Fiction, and Femininity in Second Empire France" (2013). Publicly Accessible Penn Dissertations. 911. https://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations/911 This paper is posted at ScholarlyCommons. https://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations/911 For more information, please contact [email protected]. Designing Women: Fashion, Fiction, and Femininity in Second Empire France Abstract This dissertation explores the role of fashion and fashion journal discourse in some of the most widely read French novels of the nineteenth century: Gustave Flaubert's Madame Bovary (1857), �mile Zola's La Curée (1871), and Edmond de Goncourt's Chérie (1884). As access to popular styles and fashion magazines became increasingly democratized over the course of the nineteenth century, Second Empire Paris, with its new public parks, cafés, and amusements, became the locus of an unprecedentedly visual culture. Though fashion has often been considered a feminine frivolity in scholarly circles, I argue for its importance in the Second Empire as economic engine, powerful political tool, and visual signifier of social status. The rising significance of fashion in nineteenth-century French cultural life is paralleled by an increased interest in la mode in male-authored realist and naturalist texts. In the decline and dissolution of their respective heroines, I explore how Flaubert, Zola, and Goncourt thematize and problematize the kind of gaze that fashion elicits. -
Fashion,Costume,And Culture
FCC_TP_V3_930 3/5/04 3:57 PM Page 1 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages FCC_TP_V3_930 3/5/04 3:57 PM Page 3 Fashion, Costume, and Culture Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Volume 3: European Culture from the Renaissance to the Modern3 Era SARA PENDERGAST AND TOM PENDERGAST SARAH HERMSEN, Project Editor Fashion, Costume, and Culture: Clothing, Headwear, Body Decorations, and Footwear through the Ages Sara Pendergast and Tom Pendergast Project Editor Imaging and Multimedia Composition Sarah Hermsen Dean Dauphinais, Dave Oblender Evi Seoud Editorial Product Design Manufacturing Lawrence W. Baker Kate Scheible Rita Wimberley Permissions Shalice Shah-Caldwell, Ann Taylor ©2004 by U•X•L. U•X•L is an imprint of For permission to use material from Picture Archive/CORBIS, the Library of The Gale Group, Inc., a division of this product, submit your request via Congress, AP/Wide World Photos; large Thomson Learning, Inc. the Web at http://www.gale-edit.com/ photo, Public Domain. Volume 4, from permissions, or you may download our top to bottom, © Austrian Archives/ U•X•L® is a registered trademark used Permissions Request form and submit CORBIS, AP/Wide World Photos, © Kelly herein under license. Thomson your request by fax or mail to: A. Quin; large photo, AP/Wide World Learning™ is a trademark used herein Permissions Department Photos. Volume 5, from top to bottom, under license. The Gale Group, Inc. Susan D. Rock, AP/Wide World Photos, 27500 Drake Rd. © Ken Settle; large photo, AP/Wide For more information, contact: Farmington Hills, MI 48331-3535 World Photos. -
Winter 1903-Oí)
AívJD WINTER 1903-OÍ) FASHIONABLE AND GORREGT ATTIRE. EASON after season the masculine interest in fash S ionable and correct attire increases. This is not an evidence of vanity, but a proof of good taste and common sense. Time was, and not very long- atro, when freak garments sometimes received the sanction of Fashion and when correctness of costume was not clearly defined ; but now the fact that a garment is fashionable is proof that it is artistic and there is no uncertainty as to what custom requires in a sartorial way. The man who has good taste feels, therefore, a lively interest in the movements of fashion, for thevare in line with his art sense, and the man of common sense gives careful attention to the sartorial require ments of time and occasion, knowing that they are based on the eternal fitness of things. In this little booklet may be found illustrations of the leading costumes and overcoats of the season to gether with the comments on them that will enable any one who examines the first and reads the second not only to select the clothes he needs in the full assurance that they will be exactly right, but to determine what he should wear on any occasion. There is no uncer tainty about either, each is authoritative, and together they form a manual of dress that will amply meet the requirements even of the most fastidious, BUSINESS, RIDING, OUTING AND HUNTING COSTUMES. S much thought and study are now given to design ing and making business and negligee attire as A to that for either evening or day dress The result is sartorial effects which are works of art and models of appropriateness and utility. -
ICOM Costume News 2013: 2
ICOM Costume News 2013: 2 ICOM Costume News 2013: 2 15 December 2013 INTERNATIONAL COSTUME COMMITTEE COMITÉ INTERNATIONAL DU COSTUME Letter from the Chair Dear Colleagues, experts and will issue a contract for the work in the New Year. The Board would also like to refresh I am delighted to have this first opportunity to send the Costume Committee logo. If any members have greetings to you through our Newsletter. It is an idea for a design, please e-mail it to me at coming to you through the efforts of our volunteer [email protected] and I will share it with the Newsletter Editor, Lena Chwalinski. I want to Board. express the Committee’s appreciation to Lena for her work. The Newsletter is our most important I hope that you have had the opportunity to visit means of communicating with members of the our “Clothes Tell Stories” Web site, which was Committee and it is a large task to solicit unveiled at the Rio de Janeiro meeting. There is information and put it all into a nice format. Thank more information about this Web site elsewhere in you very much, Lena. the Newsletter. We intend to expand and update this site and I would like to ask for volunteers to Perhaps you have noticed that each month since evaluate new submissions for inclusion. If you the meeting in Rio de Janeiro you have received an would like to be on this jury, please e-mail me a e-mail blast with information about Committee letter of interest and your curriculum vitae at activities. -
Outfitting Paris: Fashion, Space, and the Body in Nineteenth-Century French Literature
Outfitting Paris: Fashion, Space, and the Body in Nineteenth-Century French Literature and Culture by Kasia Stempniak Department of Romance Studies Duke University Date:_______________________ Approved: ___________________________ Deborah Jenson, Supervisor ___________________________ David Bell ___________________________ Anne-Gaëlle Saliot ___________________________ Jessica Tanner Dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Department of Romance Studies in the Graduate School of Duke University 2019 ABSTRACT Outfitting Paris: Fashion, Space, and the Body in Nineteenth-Century French Literature and Culture by Kasia Stempniak Department of Romance Studies Duke University Date:_______________________ Approved: ___________________________ Deborah Jenson, Supervisor ___________________________ David Bell ___________________________ Anne-Gaëlle Saliot ___________________________ Jessica Tanner An abstract of a dissertation submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Department of Romance Studies in the Graduate School of Duke University 2019 Copyright by Kasia Stempniak 2019 Abstract This dissertation argues that the literary and cultural history of nineteenth- century Paris must be re-envisaged in the context of fashion as a spatial and embodied practice. While existing scholarship has focused on the role of fashion in emerging consumer culture, I focus instead on how clothing mediated bodily and urban knowledge. With the rise of department stores, the fashion press, and textile innovations in mid-nineteenth-century France, fashion became synonymous with the modern urban experience. Concomitantly with the emergence of the modern fashion system, the city of Paris was itself refashioned through vast urbanization projects. This metropolitan redesign created new points of intersection between the dressed body and the city. -
Coats of the Fur Trade by Gene Hickman
Thoughts on the Coats of the Fur Trade By Gene Hickman Coats Any of the following types of “coats” would be a great addition on those cool evenings or early mornings. You or your party will have annual trapping trips & primitive camping/hunting trips that definitely require some warmer garments. If it snows in June, this will also be a huge asset! But coats or capotes are not necessary. You can always wear a blanket as a matchcoat (period correct blanket of course) or buffalo robe when necessity dictates. When we use the term coat here we mean as Chronister and Landry (1995) relate that …a garment worn over the shirt (or shirts) as a primary outer garment They go on to relate that …The journals of John Bradbury (1811), Harrison Rodgers (1826), James Ohio Pattie (1827), William Drummond Stewart (in Edward Warren), and Philip Edwards (1834) all descrive the authors or trappers wearing leather or deerskin or “fringed” hunting shirts. Larpentuer described his own “cowskin coat” and “buckskin shirt” worn over two favric shirts in 1833 (Larpentuer, 1898). There are a variety of coats that are worn, & as stated in the general article on clothing what you wear is dependent on your ethnic & geographic background as well as your occupation or “station” in life. The variety of clothing is illustrated in the reference given by Josiah Gregg (1926) as he is starting out with a caravan from Independence, Missouri to Santa Fe in 1831, …The wild and motley aspect of the caravan can be but imperfectly conceived without an idea of the costumes of its various members. -
Clothes Dictionary
P r efa ce HE first thing that a business man should kn o w — , is the little things of his business . T here is nothing scholarly in this book of short easy helps to that which every clothing maker, buyer, seller and handler w should kno , but nine times w out of ten does not kno . T his is only a book intended for q uick reference rather than thoroughness ; it is not even complete ; but, such as it is , Go the compilation is reliable . to the encyclopedia for ’ exh au s tive n es sf: we ve accomplished a great deal if this sends you to the encyclopedia . N o t one of us kno ws as much as w e might upon the familiar aspects of our trade . T HE E D I R T O . ACI D TE ST—A general term employed to designate a means of determining the ; quality o f anything, fabrics for instance as boiling a p iece o f su s pected cloth in a solution o f potash , in wh ich the wool or silk is consumed , but any cotton therein remains ; testing the color of indigo with a mixture of acetic and sulphuric acids ; etc . For more exhaustive explanation s see any good encyclopedia . AGRAFFE—An ornamental clasp , loop or lock . — ALBERT See Prince Albert . — - ALB E RT CLOTH Reversible all wool ff materials , each side o f di erent colors , and so fini s hed that no lining is required ; used chiefly for overcoats ; ” “ - better known as gol f cloth , plaid back ” coverts , etc .