AívJD WINTER 1903-OÍ) FASHIONABLE AND GORREGT ATTIRE. EASON after season the masculine interest in fash­ S ionable and correct attire increases. This is not an evidence of vanity, but a proof of good taste and common sense. Time was, and not very long- atro, when freak garments sometimes received the sanction of Fashion and when correctness of costume was not clearly defined ; but now the fact that a garment is fashionable is proof that it is artistic and there is no uncertainty as to what custom requires in a sartorial way. The man who has good taste feels, therefore, a lively interest in the movements of fashion, for thevare in line with his art sense, and the man of common sense gives careful attention to the sartorial require­ ments of time and occasion, knowing that they are based on the eternal fitness of things. In this little booklet may be found illustrations of the leading costumes and overcoats of the season to­ gether with the comments on them that will enable any one who examines the first and reads the second not only to select the clothes he needs in the full assurance that they will be exactly right, but to determine what he should wear on any occasion. There is no uncer­ tainty about either, each is authoritative, and together they form a manual of dress that will amply meet the requirements even of the most fastidious, BUSINESS, RIDING, OUTING AND HUNTING COSTUMES. S much thought and study are now given to design­ ing and making business and negligee attire as A to that for either evening or day dress The result is sartorial effects which are works of art and models of appropriateness and utility. l'or genteel business wear no suit carries more style than that illustrated on Figure 12. The coat is a three- button cutaway and the vest is single breasted. The material throughout may be a modest fancy suiting, or the vest may be made from a fancy vesting as represented. For general business we have the three-button cut­ away sack suit, shown closed on Figure 11 but open on Figure 13, the four-button straight-front sack of Figure 3 and the double-breasted sack of Figure 4, of which Figure 17 on page 7 gives a back view. Any of these suits may be made throughout from the same material, or the vest may be of a fancy vesting to show above the opening of the coat as for Figure 3, where it is single breasted, or as for Figure 4, where it is double breasted ; the trousers of the latter suit are of a fancy trousering. The riding suit shown on Figure 1 cannot fail to please the equestrian, to whom the covert coat shown on Figure 2 must strongly appeal. The blouse costume shown on Figures 14 and 5 comes mighty near the ideal for outing wear; and even for ordinary street wear, if the trousers were not turned up, it must command admiration. For hunting the costume illustrated on Figure 15, almost suggests the forest. The blouse is loose and handsome and the leg dress is just right. F Jß 1 Business and Spotting dAttire "H EVENING DRESS OTWITHSTANDING the fact that artists have ever pronounced the conventional evening dress N suit an artistic monstrosity, it continues its reign as the only masculine costume suitable for an evening function, and is as dear to the heart of the well-dressed society man as immaculate linen. During the fall and winter season on which we are just entering, this suit, as the illustrations on the oppo­ site page show, will be more than unusually handsome, whether the lapels are peaked as shown on Figures 6 and 8, or the roll is of the shawl form as represented on Figure 7. The peaked-lapel roll may be all silk in­ cluding the collar, or the silk may extend only to the buttonholes The shawl roll is, of course, silk faced to the edge. For either style, the back should be as illus­ trated on Figure 9. Either a double- or a single- breasted vest is correct, the former being almost invari­ ably made from a white dress vesting. A great deal of the shirt bosom should show, and the trousers, which have braided side seams, should be shapely. The Tuxedo suit, sometimes called the dinner suit, is a dress negligee costume. The coat is a shapely sack with a shawl collar as a rule, though peaked lapels are equally correct, the entire roll in either case being silk faced to the edge. The expression of this suit for the season, as shown on Figure 10, is very stylish and pleasing. & «ç, Y' BUSINESS DRESS. HE costumes for business wear illustrated on page T 3 are varied and handsome, and were there no others for the season the man who is fond of dress would have but little cause to complain. But on the opposite page there are four others illustrated, every one of which abounds in style and presents some attractive novelty. The cutaway frock suits shown on Figures 18, 24 and 25, the last giving a back view, are decidedly " swell," in the best sartorial meaning of the term. The coats are a happy medium between the half-dress cutaways illustrated on Figures 19 and 22, page 9, and the cum­ bersome full-front cutaway of the corresponding season of last year. Probably the four-button cutaway sack shown on Figure 16 will be the most popular sack of the season. It is certainly one of the handsomest ever designed. The double-breasted sack shown on Figure 26 reaches a high ideal of the sack type. Every line is graceful, the roll is a thing of beauty, and the general effect, while conservative, is both striking and pleasing. With any of these suits the vest may be either double or single breasted, and of a fancy vesting, or the same material as the coat, as preferred. —5— -4a DAY DRESS AND HALF-DRESS. EVEi^ before in the history of modern costume has N masculine attire for day dress and for half-dress been so just in proportion, so graceful, and in such perfect harmony with art and utility as it is now. The double-breasted frock suits shown on Figures 20 and 25, with a back view on Figure 21, cannot be criti­ cized in any way from an art point of view. They are faultless, both in gracefulness and in adaptability to the purpose for which they are intended. To the man who wishes to be in the vanguard of fashion, we commend for haif-dress the suit shown on Figure 19. The coat being flat braided will never be mistaken for a last year's product. The vest repre­ sented is single breasted, made from the same material as that of the coat, but may be double breasted and of a fancy vesting. The more conservative will prefer the costume illus­ trated on Figure 22. The coat on this figure is a little more cut away than that on Figure 19, and has the edges stitched. The vest for this figure is double breasted, made from a fancy vesting, and shows above the opening of the coat, but it may be single breasted as for Figure 22. -s— —9- OVERGARMENTS. HE well-dressed man gives as much thougnt to T his overgarments as to his suits, not only as re­ gards their style viewed simply as garments, but to their suitability to the type of suit over which they areto be worn. We say overgarments advisably; for there are but few men of means whose wardrobe does not include a Chesterfield, a covert coat, a storm coat and either an Inverness or a long box oversack for evening wear. During the incoming season the variety of overcoats is probably greater than it ever was before, and there is not a style in vogue that is not graceful in every way and especially pleasing in some feature peculiar to its type. On the opposite page are illus­ trations of the handsomest and newest designs and ex­ pressions of overgarments for coaching, driving and automobiling, with all the accessories from hat to shoes accurately represented. Nothing in the way of an overgarment could be more graceful, or more becoming to a well-built man, than the Newmarket or coaching coat shown on Figures 27 and 29, nor has there ever been devised a more "swagger" box overcoat than that illustrated for driving on Figure 28. Automobiling has not been popular long enough defi­ nitely to fix on either a costume or an overgarment that can be accepted as a type; but for the incoming season two styles of overgarments have developed that will undoubtedly become very popular. Front views of them are given on Figures 30 and 3>2, one with a detach­ able cape, the other with a detachable hood. Each is the same in the back as that represented on Figure 31. OVERGARMENTS. (Continued.) OR all-day wear the Chesterfield shown on Figures 42 and 36 is the overcoat par excellence. It is, in F fact, the only overgarment that can appropriately be worn morning, noon and night; and whenever worn, or whatever the occasion may be, it is always admirable not only from the view point of art, but from that of comfort and utility combined. The covert coat shown on Figure 38 is the favorite overgarment for wear with a sack suit, especially in the morning.