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Home , Costume, Covert coat, Surtout

AívJD WINTER 1903-OÍ)

FASHIONABLE AND GORREGT ATTIRE. EASON after season the masculine interest in fash­ S ionable and correct attire increases. This is not an evidence of vanity, but a proof of good taste and common sense. Time was, and not very long- atro, when freak garments sometimes received the sanction of and when correctness of was not clearly defined ; but now the fact that a garment is fashionable is proof that it is artistic and there is no uncertainty as to what custom requires in a sartorial way. The man who has good taste feels, therefore, a lively interest in the movements of fashion, for thevare in line with his art sense, and the man of common sense gives careful attention to the sartorial require­ ments of time and occasion, knowing that they are based on the eternal fitness of things. In this little booklet may be found illustrations of the leading and of the season to­ gether with the comments on them that will enable any one who examines the first and reads the second not only to select the clothes he needs in the full assurance that they will be exactly right, but to determine what he should wear on any occasion. There is no uncer­ tainty about either, each is authoritative, and together they form a manual of that will amply meet the requirements even of the most fastidious, BUSINESS, RIDING, OUTING AND HUNTING COSTUMES. S much thought and study are now given to design­ ing and making business and attire as A to that for either evening or day dress The result is sartorial effects which are works of art and models of appropriateness and utility. l'or genteel business wear no carries more style than that illustrated on Figure 12. The is a three- button cutaway and the vest is single breasted. The material throughout may be a modest fancy suiting, or the vest may be made from a fancy vesting as represented. For general business we have the three-button cut­ away sack suit, shown closed on Figure 11 but open on Figure 13, the four-button straight-front sack of Figure 3 and the double-breasted sack of Figure 4, of which Figure 17 on page 7 gives a back view. Any of these may be made throughout from the same material, or the vest may be of a fancy vesting to show above the opening of the coat as for Figure 3, where it is single breasted, or as for Figure 4, where it is double breasted ; the of the latter suit are of a fancy trousering. The riding suit shown on Figure 1 cannot fail to please the equestrian, to whom the shown on Figure 2 must strongly appeal. The costume shown on Figures 14 and 5 comes mighty near the ideal for outing wear; and even for ordinary street wear, if the trousers were not turned up, it must command admiration. For hunting the costume illustrated on Figure 15, almost suggests the forest. The blouse is loose and handsome and the leg dress is just right. F Jß 1

Business and Spotting dAttire

"H EVENING DRESS OTWITHSTANDING the fact that artists have ever pronounced the conventional evening dress N suit an artistic monstrosity, it continues its reign as the only masculine costume suitable for an evening function, and is as dear to the heart of the well-dressed society man as immaculate linen. During the fall and winter season on which we are just entering, this suit, as the illustrations on the oppo­ site page show, will be more than unusually handsome, whether the are peaked as shown on Figures 6 and 8, or the roll is of the form as represented on Figure 7. The peaked- roll may be all silk in­ cluding the collar, or the silk may extend only to the buttonholes The shawl roll is, of course, silk faced to the edge. For either style, the back should be as illus­ trated on Figure 9. Either a double- or a single- breasted vest is correct, the former being almost invari­ ably made from a white dress vesting. A great deal of the bosom should show, and the trousers, which have braided side seams, should be shapely. The Tuxedo suit, sometimes called the dinner suit, is a dress negligee costume. The coat is a shapely sack with a shawl collar as a rule, though peaked lapels are equally correct, the entire roll in either case being silk faced to the edge. The expression of this suit for the season, as shown on Figure 10, is very stylish and pleasing. &

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Y' BUSINESS DRESS. HE costumes for business wear illustrated on page T 3 are varied and handsome, and were there no others for the season the man who is fond of dress would have but little cause to complain. But on the opposite page there are four others illustrated, every one of which abounds in style and presents some attractive novelty. The cutaway suits shown on Figures 18, 24 and 25, the last giving a back view, are decidedly " swell," in the best sartorial meaning of the term. The are a happy medium between the half-dress cutaways illustrated on Figures 19 and 22, page 9, and the cum­ bersome full-front cutaway of the corresponding season of last year. Probably the four-button cutaway sack shown on Figure 16 will be the most popular sack of the season. It is certainly one of the handsomest ever designed. The double-breasted sack shown on Figure 26 reaches a high ideal of the sack type. Every line is graceful, the roll is a thing of beauty, and the general effect, while conservative, is both striking and pleasing. With any of these suits the vest may be either double or single breasted, and of a fancy vesting, or the same material as the coat, as preferred.

—5— -4a DAY DRESS AND HALF-DRESS. EVEi^ before in the history of modern costume has N masculine attire for day dress and for half-dress been so just in proportion, so graceful, and in such perfect harmony with art and utility as it is now. The double-breasted frock suits shown on Figures 20 and 25, with a back view on Figure 21, cannot be criti­ cized in any way from an art point of view. They are faultless, both in gracefulness and in adaptability to the purpose for which they are intended. To the man who wishes to be in the vanguard of fashion, we commend for haif-dress the suit shown on Figure 19. The coat being flat braided will never be mistaken for a last year's product. The vest repre­ sented is single breasted, made from the same material as that of the coat, but may be double breasted and of a fancy vesting. The more conservative will prefer the costume illus­ trated on Figure 22. The coat on this figure is a little more cut away than that on Figure 19, and has the edges stitched. The vest for this figure is double breasted, made from a fancy vesting, and shows above the opening of the coat, but it may be single breasted as for Figure 22.

-s— —9- OVERGARMENTS. HE well-dressed man gives as much thougnt to T his overgarments as to his suits, not only as re­ gards their style viewed simply as garments, but to their suitability to the type of suit over which they areto be worn. We say overgarments advisably; for there are but few men of means whose does not include a Chesterfield, a covert coat, a storm coat and either an Inverness or a long box oversack for evening wear. During the incoming season the variety of overcoats is probably greater than it ever was before, and there is not a style in vogue that is not graceful in every way and especially pleasing in some feature peculiar to its type. On the opposite page are illus­ trations of the handsomest and newest designs and ex­ pressions of overgarments for coaching, driving and automobiling, with all the accessories from to accurately represented. Nothing in the way of an overgarment could be more graceful, or more becoming to a well-built man, than the Newmarket or coaching coat shown on Figures 27 and 29, nor has there ever been devised a more "swagger" box than that illustrated for driving on Figure 28. Automobiling has not been popular long enough defi­ nitely to fix on either a costume or an overgarment that can be accepted as a type; but for the incoming season two styles of overgarments have developed that will undoubtedly become very popular. Front views of them are given on Figures 30 and 3>2, one with a detach­ able , the other with a detachable . Each is the same in the back as that represented on Figure 31.

OVERGARMENTS. (Continued.) OR all-day wear the Chesterfield shown on Figures 42 and 36 is the overcoat par excellence. It is, in F fact, the only overgarment that can appropriately be worn morning, noon and night; and whenever worn, or whatever the occasion may be, it is always admirable not only from the view point of art, but from that of comfort and utility combined. The covert coat shown on Figure 38 is the favorite overgarment for wear with a sack suit, especially in the morning. For the incoming season it is very stylish and handsome. The , which is specially intended to be worn with a day dress or a half-dress suit, is half-brother to the . The style this very handsome overcoat has assumed for the season about to begin, as illustrated on Figures 39 and 35, cannot fail to command adnv'ration. Those who like the amplitude, the warmth and the roll effect of the double-breasted box oversack, will look with approval on the expression of it given on Figure 41, for which the back may be the same as for Figure 36 but a little looser, or looser still, and held half-close to the as shown on Figure 27. The novelty of the season will be the single-breasted button-through straight-box oversack, with a detachable cape, as shown on Figure 40, for which the back may be the same as for either Figure 36 or 37. * •%

Ovetgatments for Genet a I Weat OVERGARMENTS. (Concluded.) OR day dress the fur-trimmed overcoat shown on F Figure 33 is the aristocrat of overgarments. It is a straight box with the roll, facings and cuffs of Persian lamb. For the same purpose the surtout, illus­ trated on Figure 34, is the ultra swell thing. No well- formed man can die happy, it has been said by some unknown philosopher, until he has worn a surtout. This is not to be wondered at ; for there is no other over­ garment that does so much credit to masculine pulchri­ tude. The Inverness has for several decades maintained its position as the ideal overcoat to wear over an evening dress suit ; but the long straight-box oversack is equally as correct for that purpose, and is preferred by many because it is less voluminous. These splendid over­ garments, as Dame Fashion has decreed they should appear, are shown on Figures 43 and 44 respectively.

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C/3 GORREGT DRESS.

VENING DRESS.—The "swallow tail" cr half- E skirted frock suit. Correct only after 6 p.m. DAY DKESS. The double-breasted frock suit. HALF-DRESS.— The cutaway frock suit. The coat not to have side flaps. EQUESTRIAN COSTUME.—Single-breasted frock and in the morning, cutaway frock and trousers in the afternoon, covert coat. COACHING AND DRIVING costumes follow the rules for day and for half-dress. The overcoats are a New­ market for coaching and a double-breasted full box for driving. OUTING AND SPORTING DRESS.—A sack or a blouse suit, with breeches for cycling, mountain climbing and hunting, and either breeches or trousers with turned-up bottoms for golfing and tennis.

ACCESSORIES OF DRESS. VENING DRESS.—Silk or hat, high-standing E or poke collar, usually a plain linen bosom, white lawn or piqué tie, pearl studs, white kid gloves, patent leather shoes. DAY DRESS.—Silk hat, high-standing or poke collar, plain linen bosom, Ascot , gray or pearl colored gloves, patent leather shoes. HALF-DRESS.—Silk hat, Ascot or four-in-hand scarf, bent-point collar, plain linen bosom or neat fancy effect, gray suède gloves, patent leather shoes. BUSINESS DRESS.—Derby or Alpine hat, high-band or bent-point collar, four-in-hand scarf or calf or enameled shoes. The different styles of collars and cuffs are shown in the illustrations.

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Our Fall and Winter I^ine of Woolens, which is now ready for in­ spection, is composed of the most desirable patterns for men's wear de­ signed for the present season. Our reputation for getting out per feet fitting garments is well known and our prices, as they have always been, are most reasonable. Our all the year round line of guaranteed Black and Blue cloths is as complete as ever. I would like to have you call and look the new goods over at our show rooms, 4 and 5 I^ewis Building. Yours truly, W. J. MAHON.

65 BANK STREET