Yale Department of French Fall 2014
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Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018
The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Front Cover Image: Textile Detail of an Evening Dress, circa 1950s, Maker Unknown, Middlesex University Fashion Collection, London, England, F2021AB. The Middlesex University Fashion Collection comprises approximately 450 garments for women and men, textiles, accessories including hats, shoes, gloves, and more, plus hundreds of haberdashery items including buttons and trimmings, from the nineteenth century to the present day. Browse the Middlesex University Fashion Collection at https://tinyurl.com/middlesex-fashion. The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 Editor–in–Chief Jennifer Daley Editor Scott Hughes Myerly Proofreader Georgina Chappell Published by The Association of Dress Historians [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org The Journal of Dress History Volume 2, Issue 3, Autumn 2018 [email protected] www.dresshistorians.org Copyright © 2018 The Association of Dress Historians ISSN 2515–0995 Online Computer Library Centre (OCLC) accession #988749854 The Journal of Dress History is the academic publication of The Association of Dress Historians through which scholars can articulate original research in a constructive, interdisciplinary, and peer reviewed environment. The Association of Dress Historians supports and promotes the advancement of public knowledge and education in the history of dress and textiles. The Association of Dress Historians (ADH) is Registered Charity #1014876 of The Charity Commission for England and Wales. The Journal of Dress History is copyrighted by the publisher, The Association of Dress Historians, while each published author within the journal holds the copyright to their individual article. The Journal of Dress History is circulated solely for educational purposes, completely free of charge, and not for sale or profit. -
A Plantation Family Wardrobe, 1825 - 1835
Virginia Commonwealth University VCU Scholars Compass Theses and Dissertations Graduate School 2010 A Plantation Family Wardrobe, 1825 - 1835 Jennifer Lappas Virginia Commonwealth University Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarscompass.vcu.edu/etd Part of the Theatre and Performance Studies Commons © The Author Downloaded from https://scholarscompass.vcu.edu/etd/2299 This Thesis is brought to you for free and open access by the Graduate School at VCU Scholars Compass. It has been accepted for inclusion in Theses and Dissertations by an authorized administrator of VCU Scholars Compass. For more information, please contact [email protected]. 1 The Carter Family Shirley Plantation claims the rightful spot as Virginia’s first plantation and the oldest family-run business in North America. It began as a royal land grant given to Sir Thomas West and his wife Lady Cessalye Shirley in 1613 and developed into the existing estate one can currently visit by 1725. The present day estate consists of the mansion itself and ten additional buildings set along a Queen Anne forecourt. These buildings include a Root Cellar, Pump House, two-story Plantation Kitchen, two story Laundry, Smokehouse, Storehouse with an Ice House below, a second Storehouse for grain, Brick Stable, Log Barn and Pigeon House or Dovecote. At one time the Great House was augmented by a North and a South Flanker: they were two free standing wings, 60 feet long and 24 feet wide and provided accommodations for visitors and guests. The North Flanker burned and its barrel-vaulted basement was converted into a root cellar and the South Flanker was torn down in 1868. -
Roberto Bolaño, El Asesino Literario. Enfoque En Su Carrera De Escritor
Hipertexto 20 Verano 2014 pp. 121-131 Roberto Bolaño, el asesino literario. Enfoque en su trayectoria de escritor C. Valeria Bril Universidad Nacional de Córdoba Hipertexto ivimos sin duda en una época de difícil discernimiento para los escritores que V parecen ponerse de moda por la vorágine de un mercado literario internacional que incorpora a autores que podríamos denominar como asesinos o suicidas literarios. Tal es el caso de Roberto Bolaño (1953-2003), un escritor chileno que vivió en México y se radicó en España. Bolaño supo encontrar el camino que lo llevaría finalmente al éxito editorial. Se convirtió en un asesino en masa o un asesino serial, o mejor dicho en un asesino pasional, para intentar corromper con su escritura las nulas y las duras consideraciones críticas que ignoraban su figura de escritor. Nada quedó fuera de su astuto entusiasmo como escritor para lograr ver la salida de su anonimato. Bolaño fue un problema para los medios crítico-literarios, porque se presentó con un perfil público controvertido y poco discreto para sus colegas, proponiendo sus propios enfoques y revalorizaciones de/sobre las obras de otros autores. El escritor chileno puede ser comparado, siguiendo sus palabras acerca de la escritura de los suicidas y de los asesinos, con: Un suicida, sea o no sea discreto, lo único que plantea son unas pocas (pero interesantes) preguntas, y en algunos casos hasta alguna respuesta. El problema es que muy poca gente sabe leer la escritura de los suicidas y en cambio mucha gente está convencida, entusiasmadamente convencida, de conocer la escritura de los asesinos”. -
The War and Fashion
F a s h i o n , S o c i e t y , a n d t h e First World War i ii Fashion, Society, and the First World War International Perspectives E d i t e d b y M a u d e B a s s - K r u e g e r , H a y l e y E d w a r d s - D u j a r d i n , a n d S o p h i e K u r k d j i a n iii BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS Bloomsbury Publishing Plc 50 Bedford Square, London, WC1B 3DP, UK 1385 Broadway, New York, NY 10018, USA 29 Earlsfort Terrace, Dublin 2, Ireland BLOOMSBURY, BLOOMSBURY VISUAL ARTS and the Diana logo are trademarks of Bloomsbury Publishing Plc First published in Great Britain 2021 Selection, editorial matter, Introduction © Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian, 2021 Individual chapters © their Authors, 2021 Maude Bass-Krueger, Hayley Edwards-Dujardin, and Sophie Kurkdjian have asserted their right under the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act, 1988, to be identifi ed as Editors of this work. For legal purposes the Acknowledgments on p. xiii constitute an extension of this copyright page. Cover design by Adriana Brioso Cover image: Two women wearing a Poiret military coat, c.1915. Postcard from authors’ personal collection. This work is published subject to a Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial No Derivatives Licence. You may share this work for non-commercial purposes only, provided you give attribution to the copyright holder and the publisher Bloomsbury Publishing Plc does not have any control over, or responsibility for, any third- party websites referred to or in this book. -
Hunting Shirts and Silk Stockings: Clothing Early Cincinnati
Fall 1987 Clothing Early Cincinnati Hunting Shirts and Silk Stockings: Clothing Early Cincinnati Carolyn R. Shine play function is the more important of the two. Shakespeare, that fount of familiar quotations and universal truths, gave Polonius these words of advice for Laertes: Among the prime movers that have shaped Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy, But not expressed infancy; history, clothing should be counted as one of the most potent, rich not gaudy; For the apparel oft proclaims the man.1 although its significance to the endless ebb and flow of armed conflict tends to be obscured by the frivolities of Laertes was about to depart for the French fashion. The wool trade, for example, had roughly the same capital where, then as now, clothing was a conspicuous economic and political significance for the Late Middle indicator of social standing. It was also of enormous econo- Ages that the oil trade has today; and, closer to home, it was mic significance, giving employment to farmers, shepherds, the fur trade that opened up North America and helped weavers, spinsters, embroiderers, lace makers, tailors, button crack China's centuries long isolation. And think of the Silk makers, hosiers, hatters, merchants, sailors, and a host of others. Road. Across the Atlantic and nearly two hundred If, in general, not quite so valuable per pound years later, apparel still proclaimed the man. Although post- as gold, clothing like gold serves as a billboard on which to Revolution America was nominally a classless society, the display the image of self the individual wants to present to social identifier principle still manifested itself in the quality the world. -
Yale Department of French News Fall 2018
yale department of french fall 2018 AS I PAUSE TO CONTEMPLATE the senior level as well, and we are hoping GREETINGS another busy and successful year in to have very exciting news to announce in the Yale Department of French, I am this regard shortly. FROM THE deeply grateful to everyone who made We were very happy to welcome back it possible. I am especially grateful to ALYSON WATERS to teaching this past CHAIR PIERRE SAINT-AMAND for agreeing year. As many of you know, in addition to to be the Director of Graduate Studies editing Yale French Studies, Alyson has a so soon after arriving at Yale, and for the thriving career as a translator. Now that extremely effective work he did preparing she is once again teaching her popular our students for the job market. I am courses on translation, we have been ALICE KAPLAN equally grateful to for able to add a translation track to our filling in for Pierre as DGS when he went undergraduate major. This year, we will TOM CONNOLLY on leave in the Spring. also experiment with two new courses on did a wonderful job during his two years French for the professions—one devoted as Director of Undergraduate Studies to medicine and one to business—which and will now be handing over the reins to will be taught by MORGANE CADIEU . I am happy to say our new lector, RUTH KOIZIM that has agreed to stay on LÉO TERTRAIN, as the director of our language program. (left)who joins Over the past year, we conducted a us fresh from th th major international open-rank search in the completing a PhD fields of 16 and/or 17 -century French at Cornell in 2016. -
Unbound, a Book Launch Series Co-Presented by BAM and Greenlight Bookstore, Returns This Fall with Colson Whitehead, Ina Garten, and David Salle
Unbound, a book launch series co-presented by BAM and Greenlight Bookstore, returns this fall with Colson Whitehead, Ina Garten, and David Salle Colson Whitehead with Lisa Lucas Launch of The Underground Railroad Sep 26 at 7pm BAM Rose Cinema (30 Lafayette Ave) $25 (ticket only); $45 (includes book) Ina Garten with moderator Tina Fey Launch of Cooking for Jeffrey Oct 25 at 7:30pm BAM Howard Gilman Opera House (30 Lafayette Ave) Starts at $30 (ticket only); starts at $58 (includes book) David Salle with Lorin Stein Launch of How to See: Looking, Talking, and Thinking About Art Nov 1 at 7pm BAM Café (30 Lafayette Ave) $25 (ticket only); $45 (includes book) August 15, 2016 / Brooklyn, NY —Unbound: A Book Launch Series with BAM and Greenlight Bookstore returns this fall with three talks surrounding the highly anticipated book launches of these eclectic contemporary artists and authors—Colson Whitehead, Ina Garten, and David Salle. In The Underground Railroad—a selection for Oprah’s Book Club 2016—author Colson Whitehead (Sep 26) chronicles a young slave's adventures as she makes a desperate bid for freedom in the antebellum South. While interweaving the saga of America from the brutal importation of Africans to the unfulfilled promises of the present day, The Underground Railroad is at once a kinetic tale of one woman’s ferocious will to escape the horrors of bondage and a powerful meditation on the history we all share. Whitehead will discuss the book and its relevance to the current social and political climate with Lisa Lucas, executive director of the National Book Foundation. -
Literature for the 21St Century Summer 2013 Coursebook
Literature for the 21st Century Summer 2013 Coursebook PDF generated using the open source mwlib toolkit. See http://code.pediapress.com/ for more information. PDF generated at: Sun, 26 May 2013 16:12:52 UTC Contents Articles Postmodern literature 1 Alice Munro 14 Hilary Mantel 20 Wolf Hall 25 Bring Up the Bodies 28 Thomas Cromwell 30 Louise Erdrich 39 Dave Eggers 44 Bernardo Atxaga 50 Mo Yan 52 Life and Death Are Wearing Me Out 58 Postmodernism 59 Post-postmodernism 73 Magic realism 77 References Article Sources and Contributors 91 Image Sources, Licenses and Contributors 94 Article Licenses License 95 Postmodern literature 1 Postmodern literature Postmodern literature is literature characterized by heavy reliance on techniques like fragmentation, paradox, and questionable narrators, and is often (though not exclusively) defined as a style or trend which emerged in the post–World War II era. Postmodern works are seen as a reaction against Enlightenment thinking and Modernist approaches to literature.[1] Postmodern literature, like postmodernism as a whole, tends to resist definition or classification as a "movement". Indeed, the convergence of postmodern literature with various modes of critical theory, particularly reader-response and deconstructionist approaches, and the subversions of the implicit contract between author, text and reader by which its works are often characterised, have led to pre-modern fictions such as Cervantes' Don Quixote (1605,1615) and Laurence Sterne's eighteenth-century satire Tristram Shandy being retrospectively inducted into the fold.[2][3] While there is little consensus on the precise characteristics, scope, and importance of postmodern literature, as is often the case with artistic movements, postmodern literature is commonly defined in relation to a precursor. -
Slouching Toward Mecca Mark Lilla
Slouching Toward Mecca Mark Lilla Soumission Michel Houellebecq Socialists do. The party’s founder and by Michel Houellebecq. president, Mohammed Ben Abbes— Paris: Flammarion, a cross between Tariq Ramadan and 300 pp., g21.00 (paper) Recep Tayyip Erdoğan before he took (a translation from the French power—is a genial man who gets along by Lorin Stein will be published by well with Catholic and Jewish commu- Farrar, Straus and Giroux in October) nity leaders who share his conservative social views, and also with business The best-selling novel in Europe today, types who like his advocacy of eco- Michel Houellebecq’s Soumission, is nomic growth. Foreign heads of state, about an Islamic political party com- beginning with the pope, have given ing peacefully to power in France. Its him their blessing. Given that Muslims publication was announced this past make up at most 6 to 8 percent of the fall in an atmosphere that was already French population, it strains credibility tense. In May a young French Muslim to imagine such a party carrying any committed a massacre at a Belgian weight in ten years’ time. But Houelle- Jewish museum; in the summer Mus- becq’s thought experiment is based on lim protesters in Paris shouted “Death a genuine insight: since the far right to the Jews!” at rallies against the war wants to deport Muslims, conservative in Gaza; in the fall stories emerged politicians look down on them, and the about hundreds of French young peo- Socialists, who embrace them, want ple, many converts, fighting withISIS to force them to accept gay marriage, in Syria and Iraq; a French captive was no one party clearly represents their then beheaded in Algeria; and random interests.3 attacks by unstable men shouting “al- lahu akbar” took place in several cit- ies. -
Yale Department of French Fall 2013
yale department of french fall 2013 GREETINGS During this 2013-2014 academic year, we will conduct a search for a new assistant FROM THE professor—field open. Please do write to us about your most talented students on CHAIR the job market. Yale has switched to a true tenure track with an eight-year “clock” and two years of leave along the way. With these conditions, we recruit with enthusiasm. The big picture is changing too. RICK LEVIN stepped down after twenty years of strong leadership as President of Yale. October 10-13, 2013 celebrated the inauguration of President PETER New Chevalier Ruth Koizim with Antonin Baudry SALOVEY, whose term began in July. Salovey is a former dean, provost, and To NED DUVAL, our first Henri Peyre chair of Psychology—a renowned Chair in French, and thanks to many of you specialist on emotional intelligence, and who contributed to the Peyre endowment. an accomplished bluegrass musician! To MAURICE SAMUELS, the Betty We also look forward to working with Jane Anlyan chair in French, thanks to a BEN POLAK our new provost from the newly created chair in the Humanities given Department of Economics, and we are by the legendary surgeon and oncologist grateful to the ongoing support of Dean JOHN ANLYAN, who congratulated Maurie MARY MILLER EMILY and Deputy Provost in perfect French… BAKEMEIER , joined this fall by Associate To ALYSON WATERS, for her superb JOHN MANGAN Provost . translation of Eric Chevillard’s Prehistoric IT WAS ANOTHER BUSY YEAR FOR EDWIGE TAMALET TALBAYEV Times, which won the highly competitive the French Department, with nearly left us to take a new position at Tulane 2012 Translation Prize for best French weekly lectures, a parade of distinguished University. -
PART I This Page Intentionally Left Blank CHAPTER I
PART I This page intentionally left blank CHAPTER i Clothing and Consumers in Rural J^ew Sngland, 1760—1810 WHITE APRONS. When Catherine Graves was asked to recall her eighteenth- century Northampton girlhood, what she remembered most vividly were white aprons. Interviewed by the local historian Sylvester Judd in the second quarter of the nineteenth century, Graves noted that, in the 17605 and 17705, only a handful of women had had white aprons to wear when they went out visiting; the rest wore the blue and white checked aprons ubiquitous in the Connecticut Valley. Sixty years removed, she was still able to list the families along South Street whose daughters wore white aprons.1 Recollections like Graves's remind us of the importance of clothing in eighteenth-century America. The white aprons worn by Anna, Rachel, and Lucinda Barnard and other young women on South Street lingered in Graves's memory because, at the time, they were important markers by which men and women—and children, too—measured their position and the posi- tion of others. In the last half of the eighteenth century, white and checked aprons, together with patterned and plain fabrics, fitted coats, imported tex- tiles, and other elements of early American wardrobes, helped people assert and assess their place in society.2 "Purse and Apparel": Clothing and Its Meanings in Early New England From the beginning of European settlement through the early national pe- riod, New England wardrobes, first, were assets. Josiah Pierce, a schoolteacher in Hadley, Massachusetts, for example, gave his hired woman, when she completed her term of service, £11 as well as "£12 O.T. -
Fashion, Fiction, and Femininity in Second Empire France
University of Pennsylvania ScholarlyCommons Publicly Accessible Penn Dissertations 2013 Designing Women: Fashion, Fiction, and Femininity in Second Empire France Sara Frances Phenix University of Pennsylvania, [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations Part of the Other Languages, Societies, and Cultures Commons, and the Women's Studies Commons Recommended Citation Phenix, Sara Frances, "Designing Women: Fashion, Fiction, and Femininity in Second Empire France" (2013). Publicly Accessible Penn Dissertations. 911. https://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations/911 This paper is posted at ScholarlyCommons. https://repository.upenn.edu/edissertations/911 For more information, please contact [email protected]. Designing Women: Fashion, Fiction, and Femininity in Second Empire France Abstract This dissertation explores the role of fashion and fashion journal discourse in some of the most widely read French novels of the nineteenth century: Gustave Flaubert's Madame Bovary (1857), �mile Zola's La Curée (1871), and Edmond de Goncourt's Chérie (1884). As access to popular styles and fashion magazines became increasingly democratized over the course of the nineteenth century, Second Empire Paris, with its new public parks, cafés, and amusements, became the locus of an unprecedentedly visual culture. Though fashion has often been considered a feminine frivolity in scholarly circles, I argue for its importance in the Second Empire as economic engine, powerful political tool, and visual signifier of social status. The rising significance of fashion in nineteenth-century French cultural life is paralleled by an increased interest in la mode in male-authored realist and naturalist texts. In the decline and dissolution of their respective heroines, I explore how Flaubert, Zola, and Goncourt thematize and problematize the kind of gaze that fashion elicits.