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Greece | Mainland | the pelion the pelion little wonder that the ancient gods chose the pelion – home of the Centaurs (kentavros) – as the place for their weddings and celebrations; for here is a near-perfect synthesis of mountain, forest and sea. Mt pelion Horefto babbling brook or birdsong. everywhere 1600 m are trees, shrubs, plants and flowers. agios ioannis portaria damouchari the coastline hides some excellent tsangarada beaches, often of a coarse sand/fine VoLos shingle which makes for excellent H Vizitsa s y k swimming in clear water. foreign d o r p o e f l tourism is still fairly undeveloped, o o i s l & t Kala Nera o and the small seaside villages – a l s o k Afissos n ia i quiet for most of the year, busy s t s H o o Lefokastro s s , argalasti over weekends and local holiday kalamos pagassitikos periods – remain reassuringly Horto Gulf Katigiorgis Greek! Milina Lafkos Because pelion is still pretty virgin platanias territory it does not have the touristic infrastructure of more established areas. Money exchange and atMs can be hard to find away from fresh and green year-round, the Volos (so take a good supply of euros with peninsula is dominated by mountains you); the bus service limited and english reaching a height of some 1600 metres not universally spoken. excursions are also and covered with pine, oak, fir, plane and limited and run only subject to numbers chestnut. Views are dramatic, particularly from kala nera and afissos. on the northeast where mountains With all this in mind we would strongly plunge dizzily to the sea. the western side recommended you pre-book a car, is gentler – its hills covered with olive especially for those choosing to stay in trees and shrubs – yet still remarkably the smaller, more remote villages (i.e. attractive. those other than kala nera and afissos). if pelion’s preserved mountain villages are a you don’t mind some very winding roads, joy. Clinging to wooded slopes high above it would be a pity not to discover the the sea, they share a unique architectural whole of pelion. even Meteora and delphi tradition and are amongst the most are within reach. beautiful in Greece. the old stone-built a visit to pelion will refresh the palate of mansions, with their grey slate roofs and even the most frequent Greek traveller. it overhanging balconies, blend with their did ours, and that takes some doing! surroundings. often the only sounds are a PeLioN iNforMAtioN Getting to Pelion Friday Day flight Gatwick to Volos (inbound flight via Skiathos) or Manchester to Skiathos with 30 min water-taxi transfer to Platanias (prices on request). Then 1½ – 2½ hrs by coach or taxi (Manchester pax 30-60 mins) – see resort pages. For flight details see page 267. Multi-Centre options All areas can combine. For multi-centre details see page 8. Car Hire See pages 268-9 for details. representative Based in Kala Nera – will visit all areas except NE Pelion (on request). Walking in the Pelion Thickly forested and criss-crossed by stone-paved mule tracks, Pelion is a walker’s paradise. There are a couple of excellent websites full of useful information and downloadable walks - www.pilionwalks.com and www.friendsofthekalderimi.org 020 8758 4758 www.sunvil.co.uk Greece & Cyprus | 149 Greece | Mainland | the pelion our chosen areas the dozen restaurants are to be found, along Western pelion with a few cafés, mini-markets and bakery. at south pelion its heart is a shady central square with kala nera, afissos, attendant church. katigiorgis & lafkos lefokastro & Milina Gently shelving beaches lie to either side, a Drive time 2-2½ hours from Volos mix of shingle and coarse sand, which get the wooded hills of the south-eastern corner transfer time 1½-2½ hours from Volos very busy at weekends and in Greek holiday of pelion are less steep than the more the western side of the pelion has lovely periods - there are several beach clubs, each mountainous north and the area more views (and gorgeous sunsets) over the of which offers free sun beds to its patrons. sparsely populated. the distance from Volos pagasitic Gulf to the mountains of the means it lessens the Greek holiday crowds mainland. although heavily wooded, like all Both afissos and kala nera have a reasonable who would otherwise flock to the beautiful pelion, the west is more typically bus service to Volos. last year excursions ran sandy beaches and coves here (undoubtedly Mediterranean: here olive and cypress around the pelion by coach, and there was amongst the peninsula’s loveliest), although predominate over oak and chestnut. also a popular 'around the gulf' boat trip. day-trippers may visit from skiathos for a few an hour’s beautiful walk (or a ten minute although the name Kala Nera ('Good hours by excursion boat. Waters') originally referred to the many drive) south along the narrow country lanes the pick of the places to stay is the small springs in the area, it could equally apply to through the olive groves brings you to seaside hamlet of Katigiorgis. We have the sea here. directly on the gulf some 18 Lefokastro. this seaside hamlet is pretty as a heard it called kati-gorgeous as it is so pretty! kms to the south of Volos, the village has lush postcard – a delightfully tranquil wooded Comprising simply a compact but delightfully wooded surrounds and backs a gently bay, with a ribbon of houses fronting the sandy beach facing skiathos – the bay shelving sand/shingle beach which has a Blue water and a safe fine-shingle beach. last enclosed by rocky arms sheltering the village flag. kala nera's long tree-lined promenade summer a pair of local tavernas operated, fishing boats – and a cluster of houses, its two shades an array of restaurants and cafes, joined by a third in high season. tavernas are known for fresh fish. perfect spots from which to admire the lefokastro offers an authentically Greek ‘away sunsets here for which the area is famed. it is from it all’ holiday in unspoilt green there is also a café with Wifi and a mini- also not far from the start of the very scenic surroundings, with good swimming and market – all you should need for a complete heritage railway which runs at weekends fewer visitors. the countryside is hilly and full escape. some fine beaches lie in either from ano lehonia up the mountain to the of olive trees, so offers fine walking (gentler direction, ranging from tiny coves to longer gorgeously traditional village of Milies. as than in the east). stretches of sand, and can be found on foot (walkers only). a car is included in our holidays everywhere in pelion there are good walking Milina further to the south is larger (not here and enables you to discover more opportunities - perhaps along the coast to difficult!), albeit still pretty and quiet. the wonderful beaches to the north and south. the beach at Boufa. village enjoys fine views over a crystalline sea kala nera is a relaxed seaside village with a to the small islets of alatas and prasouda, inland, the pretty hill village of Lafkos, has a very Greek atmosphere, a good choice of each of which is home to an old (now lovely traditional main square and you will authentic restaurants and small shops, with deserted) monastery. Milina's long find five village tavernas, as well as a some life to it (in a 'bustling taverna' kind of promenade above the sea is lined with a traditional cheese maker, a sculpture gallery way), especially in season. good choice of tavernas and cafes, and the and (weirdly) a radio museum! it is a wonderful base for walking - many local Afissos is a small, quite smart little resort village has a number of small shops. narrow stone paths start from here - and we would village and popular with local Greeks from shingle beaches lie to either side. there is a urge walkers to visit the excellent website by Volos at weekends as it boasts three good bus service to Volos (up to 5 times daily in friends of the kalderimi. the nearest beaches beaches. it is said that Jason called in here for season), and a car will enable a visit to trikeri are a 10 minute drive away to the west near freshwater supplies before setting sail on his island (known for its fish tavernas) just off Milina - however a very wide choice of some epic journey. pelion's southern tip, as well as a thorough exploration of the beautiful south, which truly fabulous sandy beaches can be found the village has a small fishing harbour at its hides some truly spectacular beaches on its within a 20-30 minute drive. entrance. its long seafront is where most of eastern side. Milina Katigiorgis beach 150 | sunvil 020 8758 4758 www.sunvil.co.uk Greece | Mainland | the pelion althea traditional Mansion portaria among pelion’s many attractions its 1830 and is listed, or in the building preserved villages should be high next door. all rooms are richly on the list. on the slopes of Mount furnished in a classic style. the pelion, the distinctive architecture of centre of the village is a couple of the old mansions blends minutes’ walk away. harmoniously with plane tree- all 11 rooms possess Wifi, hairdryer, shaded squares, forested surrounds, mini-bar/fridge, tV and a modern traditional tavernas and vistas of walk-in shower room. standard mountain and sea. rooms are in the original building portaria is the closest of these and are double-bedded with ceiling villages to Volos and popular with fan (aC is really not required at this Greek and foreign visitors alike.

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