7375 Greece 2019 Pelion.qxp 26/11/2018 19:34 Page 119 Greece | Mainland | pelion pelion little wonder that the ancient gods chose pelion – home of the Centaurs (kentavros) – as the place for their weddings and celebrations; for here is a near-perfect synthesis of mountain, forest and sea. Mt pelion Horefto babbling brook or birdsong. everywhere 1600 m are trees, shrubs, plants and flowers. agios ioannis portaria damouchari the coastline hides some excellent tsangarada beaches, often of a coarse sand/fine VoLos shingle which makes for excellent H Vizitsa s y k swimming in clear water. foreign d o r p o e f l tourism is still fairly undeveloped, o o i s l & t Kala Nera o and the small seaside villages – a l s o k Afissos n ia i quiet for most of the year, busy s t s H o o Lefokastro s s , argalasti over weekends and local holiday kalamos pagassitikos periods – remain reassuringly Horto Gulf Katigiorgis Greek! Milina Lafkos Because pelion is still pretty virgin platanias territory it does not have the touristic infrastructure of more established areas. atMs can be hard to find away from Volos (although all shops fresh and green year-round, the and tavernas should now accept card peninsula is dominated by mountains payments); the bus service limited and reaching a height of some 1600 metres english not universally spoken. excursions and covered with pine, oak, fir, plane and are also limited and run only subject to chestnut. Views are dramatic, particularly numbers from kala nera and afissos. on the northeast where mountains With all this in mind we would strongly plunge dizzily to the sea. the western side recommended you pre-book a car, is gentler – its hills covered with olive especially for those choosing to stay in trees and shrubs – yet still remarkably the smaller, more remote villages (i.e. attractive. those other than kala nera and afissos). if pelion’s preserved mountain villages are a you don’t mind some very winding roads, joy. Clinging to wooded slopes high above it would be a pity not to discover the the sea, they share a unique architectural whole of pelion. even Meteora and delphi tradition and are amongst the most are within reach. beautiful in Greece. the old stone-built a visit to pelion will refresh the palate of mansions, with their grey slate roofs and even the most frequent Greek traveller. it overhanging balconies, blend with their did ours, and that takes some doing! surroundings. often the only sounds are a PeLioN iNforMAtioN Getting to Pelion Friday Day flight Gatwick to Volos (outbound flight via Skiathos) or Manchester to Skiathos with 30 min water-taxi transfer to Platanias (prices on request). Then 1½ – 2½ hrs by coach or taxi (Manchester pax 30-60 mins) – see resort pages. For flight details see page 267. Multi-Centre options All areas can combine. For multi-centre details see page 8. Car Hire See pages 268-9 for details. representative Based in Kala Nera – will visit all areas except NE Pelion (on request). Walking in Pelion Thickly forested and criss-crossed by stone-paved mule tracks, Pelion is a walker’s paradise. For walking holidays here see page 125. There are a couple of excellent websites full of useful information and downloadable walks - www.pilionwalks.com and www.friendsofthekalderimi.org Lefokastro taverna 020 8758 4758 www.sunvil.co.uk Greece & Cyprus | 119 7375 Greece 2019 Pelion.qxp 25/11/2018 03:44 Page 120 Greece | Mainland | pelion our chosen areas entrance. its long seafront is where most of Western pelion the dozen restaurants are to be found, along south pelion with a few cafés, mini-markets and bakery. at kala nera, afissos, its heart is a shady central square with katigiorgis & lafkos lefokastro & Milina attendant church. Drive time 2-2½ hours from Volos or 20 Gently shelving beaches lie to either side, a mins from Platanias (if flying via transfer time 1½-2½ hours from Volos mix of shingle and coarse sand, which get skiathos) or 30-60 mins from Platanias (if flying very busy at weekends and in Greek holiday the wooded hills of the south-eastern corner via skiathos) periods - there are several beach clubs, each of pelion are less steep than the more the western side of pelion has lovely views of which offers free sun beds to its patrons. mountainous north and the area more (and gorgeous sunsets) over the pagasitic Both afissos and kala nera have a reasonable sparsely populated. the distance from Volos Gulf to the mountains of the mainland. bus service to Volos. last year excursions ran means it lessens the Greek holiday crowds although heavily wooded, like all pelion, the around the pelion by coach, and there was who would otherwise flock to the beautiful west is more typically Mediterranean: here also a popular 'around the gulf' boat trip. sandy beaches and coves here (undoubtedly olive and cypress predominate over oak and amongst the peninsula’s loveliest), although an hour’s beautiful walk (or a ten minute chestnut. day-trippers may visit from skiathos for a few drive) south along the narrow country lanes hours by excursion boat. although the name Kala Nera ('Good through the olive groves brings you to Waters') originally referred to the many Lefokastro. this seaside hamlet is pretty as a the pick of the places to stay is the small springs in the area, it could equally apply to postcard – a delightfully tranquil wooded seaside hamlet of Katigiorgis. We have the sea here. directly on the gulf some 18 bay, with a ribbon of houses fronting the heard it called kati-gorgeous as it is so pretty! kms to the south of Volos, the village has lush water and a safe fine-shingle beach. last Comprising simply a compact but delightfully wooded surrounds and backs a gently summer a pair of local tavernas operated, sandy beach facing skiathos – the bay shelving sand/shingle beach which has a Blue joined by a third in high season. enclosed by rocky arms sheltering the village flag. kala nera's long tree-lined promenade fishing boats – and a cluster of houses, its two lefokastro offers an authentically Greek ‘away shades an array of restaurants and cafes, tavernas are known for fresh fish. perfect spots from which to admire the from it all’ holiday in unspoilt green there is also a café with Wifi and a mini- sunsets here for which the area is famed. it is surroundings, with good swimming and market – all you should need for a complete also not far from the start of the very scenic fewer visitors. the countryside is hilly and full escape. some fine beaches lie in either heritage railway which runs at weekends of olive trees, so offers fine walking (gentler direction, ranging from tiny coves to longer from ano lehonia up the mountain to the than in the east). stretches of sand, and can be found on foot gorgeously traditional village of Milies. as Milina further to the south is larger (not (walkers only). a car is included in our holidays everywhere in pelion there are good walking difficult!), albeit still pretty and quiet. the here and enables you to discover more opportunities - perhaps along the coast to village enjoys fine views over a crystalline sea wonderful beaches to the north and south. the beach at Boufa. to the small islets of alatas and prasouda, inland, the pretty hill village of Lafkos, has a kala nera is a relaxed seaside village with a each of which is home to an old (now lovely traditional main square and you will very Greek atmosphere, a good choice of deserted) monastery. Milina's long find five village tavernas, as well as a authentic restaurants and small shops, with promenade above the sea is lined with a traditional cheese maker, a sculpture gallery some life to it (in a 'bustling taverna' kind of good choice of tavernas and cafes, and the and (weirdly) a radio museum! it is a way), especially in season. village has a number of small shops. narrow shingle beaches lie to either side. there is a wonderful base for walking - many local Afissos is a small, quite smart little resort bus service to Volos (up to 5 times daily in stone paths start from here - and we would village and popular with local Greeks from season), and a car will enable a visit to trikeri urge walkers to visit the excellent website by Volos at weekends as it boasts three good island (known for its fish tavernas) just off friends of the kalderimi. the nearest beaches beaches. it is said that Jason called in here for pelion's southern tip, as well as a thorough are a 10 minute drive away to the west near freshwater supplies before setting sail on his exploration of the beautiful south, which Milina - however a very wide choice of some epic journey. hides some truly spectacular beaches on its truly fabulous sandy beaches can be found the village has a small fishing harbour at its eastern side. within a 20-30 minute drive. Katigiorgis Kala Nera 120 | sunvil 020 8758 4758 www.sunvil.co.uk 7375 Greece 2019 Pelion.qxp 25/11/2018 03:45 Page 121 Greece | Mainland | pelion pegasus Hotel kala nera the friendly, family-run pegasus is a the front is a spacious terrace for the well-liked small hotel in the heart of hotel’s popular café where breakfast kala nera, just 30m from the sea can be taken. there is also a seating and the start of the village’s main area above the sea: the perfect spot beach.