GO FURTHER I SAIL BETTER I BE INSPIRED

DIGITAL SUPPLEMENT | SPRING  | sailingtoday.co.uk Med islands Get o the beaten track in Cyprus, Malta and Mallorca

SPORADES Enjoy out of season

LEFKAS Idyllic Ionian harbour guide

MARMARIS Heart of Turkey’s beautiful south

MED_Cover.indd 1 30/03/2016 15:45 CONTENTS 04 SPORADES HAVE THE NORTHERN ISLANDS ALL TO YOURSELF OUT OF SEASON 14 LEFKAS THE FINEST SHELTER IN THE IONIAN MAKES A GREAT BASE FOR EXPLORING 22 MED ISLANDS CRUISE AWAY FROM THE CROWDS IN MALLORCA, MALTA AND CYPRUS 30 MARMARIS YOUR GUIDE TO THE GATEWAY TO TURKEY’S SOUTHWESTERN COAST

MED_Welcome/Contents.indd 2 30/03/2016 14:33 Welcome

EDITORIAL EDITOR Sam Fortescue 020 7349 3752 [email protected] DEPUTY EDITOR Big blue Emma Bamford 020 7349 3753 [email protected] SENIOR SUB-EDITOR Henry Giles [email protected] CHARGE UP YOUR SAILING BATTERIES ART & PRODUCTION EDITOR WITH OUR SUNNY MED GUIDE Claire Wood PUBLISHING CONSULTANT Martin Nott ADVERTISING TAKE ONE PART ADVERTISEMENT MANAGER Jodie Green octopus stew, one part 020 7349 3722 [email protected] heady local tipple, two SALES EXECUTIVE parts warm wind and Charlie Whitcombe 020 7349 3742 as much turquoise [email protected] ADVERTISEMENT PRODUCTION water as you like - mix Allpoints Media Ltd allpointsmedia.co.uk together well and Published by: you have the essence The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd of Mediterranean cruising, as you’ll Jubilee House, 2 Jubilee Place, London, SW3 3TQ see from the pages that follow. Tel: 020 7349 3700 If you fancy sheltered waters, head for MANAGING DIRECTOR Paul Dobson the Sporades, where our intrepid Deputy [email protected] DEPUTY MANAGING DIRECTOR Editor weathered a few gusts of wind out of Steve Ross [email protected] season in May. e pay o for the odd bit COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR of woolly hat weather, as she discovered, Vicki Gavin [email protected] was a delightfully deserted coast. She had PUBLISHER Simon Temlett her choice of town quays to go alongside, [email protected] and no shortage of tavernas and restaurants BRAND MANAGER Ginny MacLean to enjoy the view, uncluttered by tourists. [email protected] Or charter in the southern Med, on islands Subscriptions and back issues +44 (0)1795 419842 better known for land-based tourism. e Sailing Today, 800 Guillat Avenue, Kent Science Park, Sittingbourne, ME9 8GU harbours and anchorages on Mallorca, Tel: 01795 419842 Email: [email protected] Malta and Cyprus will have plenty of space © The Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd 2016. to welcome you. You’ll also enjoy our two All Rights Reserved. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without detailed Gull’s Eye guides - for the key permission in writing. Every care is taken to ensure the accuracy of information in Sailing Today, but no springboards at opposite ends of the Med. responsibility can be accepted for the consequences of actions based on the advice portrayed herein. The ere’s beautiful Marmaris, in its well- Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd makes every e¢ ort to ensure that the advertising contained in this magazine is protected bay, for access to Turkey’s stunning delivered from responsible sources. We cannot, however, accept any responsibility for transactions between southwest coast. Or for the charming Ionian readers and advertisers. For the Chelsea Magazine Company Ltd full set of terms and conditions please go to waters of western Greece, there’s Le as. chelseamagazines.com/terms-and-conditions

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MED_Welcome/Contents.indd 3 30/03/2016 14:33 Cruising ~ Sporades

ALL QUIET ON THE GRECIAN FRONT Visit Greece out of season and you’ll avoid the crowds and have the place all to yourselves. But, as Emma Bamford discovers, there’s always a pay-off… PHOTO: ALIA SCHAEFER PHOTO:

MED_Greece_Sporades.indd 4 30/03/2016 14:17 ALL QUIET ON THE GRECIAN FRONT

MED_Greece_Sporades.indd 5 30/03/2016 14:17 model) Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 469 – Rodi, named after Poseidon’s daughter. With four double cabins and four heads, it’s more than enough for me and my tour guide - the base manager, Christos Liapis. It’s a boat undoubtedly suited to charterers – the cockpit is huge and fitted with subwoofer sound y Sailing Today system and up- and down-lights, colleagues are and our meagre supplies of oranges, bored to tears strawberries and a few Alfa beers with my constant look lost inside the gigantic fridge. updates on the (39°20’.9N 022°56’.8E) is on Greek weather the northern edge of the Pagasitikos Mahead of my trip to the Gulf (Kolpos in Greek), a circular region and the Sporades islands. bay about 16nM wide with a narrow “Look!” I say, gleefully, “27 3nM entrance at the south. The degrees in April! One day of cloud mainland and islands of the region but then wall-to-wall sunshine.” are mountainous and green, and the I make sure I pack plenty of sea is deep. The prevailing winds are sunscreen, T-shirts and flip-flops. from the northeast, so the eastern Thessaloniki doesn’t disappoint. edge of the gulf is protected by the It is hot when I arrive and, when mountain range. If winds come from I reach the town of Volos, from the southwest, Volos can suffer (a big where Jason started his quest blow in May 2014 saw three boats on the Argo to claim the golden sink) but in most conditions, it’s fine. fleece, people are sunbathing on “Pagasitikos Gulf is like a the narrow beach in Speedos. lake,” Christos tells me, and he’s to show me this place because Sail Smug, I tuck into an ice-cream. not wrong – we have a gentle Aegean will build a small marina Sail Aegean, a charter company beam-reach sail in flat seas along here, a base for its fleet that will which has its main base here in the eastern rim of the gulf. also welcome visitors. The plan is Volos, with 14 yachts for bareboat The first stop is Kala Nera for a small complex of apartments, or skippered charter or flotilla, (39°17’.5N 023°08’.5E), a small fishing chandlers, showers and a supermarket ranging from 33ft (10m) to 51ft harbour about 8nM clockwise around and the hope is to move boats there (15.6m), lends me a new (2014 the gulf from Volos. Christos wants for the summer 2017 season.

A windy spring Pagasitikos Gulf Another seven or eight miles Aegean clockwise and we’re at Milina PAGASITIKOS GULF GREECE Sea Izmir (39°09’N 023°12’E). The wind is Athens D TURKEY o Peleponnese d picking up and we’re glad to tuck e c a behind a narrow island. There are a Mt. Northern Spor ades n e Sea of Crete s few private moorings here and we try Volos Kira Panayia e Magnesia CRETE to grab one, but the wind is up to 30 knots plus and Rodi, with her high Pagasitik Kolpos Alonnisos (Gulf of Volpos) topsides and dinghy on deck, has a lot Skiathos PalioTrikeri Peristeri of windage. We drop anchor instead. Milina Skiathos l TOP LEFT When we up anchor after a lunch Dhiavlos Peninsula Skopelos Emma tries raki Volpos Skopelos on Skopelos of Greek salad (of course) and peek Stenon Trikeri Skantzoura around the corner of the little island, Pigadhi l ABOVE it’s like we’ve jumped through a Skiathos to Skopelos gap in the space-time continuum. el Orei in 40 knots The sunshine has gone, the water is Orei Chann Evia l FACING PAGE Sunset in the being whipped up into a very short Pagasitikos gulf but shallow chop and the wind

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MED_Greece_Sporades.indd 6 30/03/2016 14:18 Sporades

Tips

l Definitely visit Trikeri (39°09.2’N 023D 04.5’E) if you can. Saturday afternoons and Sundays are the busiest, when locals pop over for the weekend. l Tzasteni bay (39°08.9’N 023D 07.9’E) looks like little more than a white house from the sea but head in and you’ll find a well-protected bay, pretty curved beach and perfect water for swimming. l We paid no harbour fees anywhere during our trip. In Trikeri, if you use the jetty, it is suggested that you visit the taverna, which can also provide electricity and water for you. In high season there may be small fess to pay in the Sporades islands. l Christos advises boats to use official harbours for overnight stays, rather than small bays, in case the wind changes. But one bay he does recommend for a night is Panormos (39°06’.6N 023°39’.3E), 3Nm from Loutraki, which has good shelter in all wind directions. But put out a lot of chain and run a stern line ashore. l Good spots for a lunch and swim break are Milia (39°06'6N 23°39’.1E) on Skopelos, and the three bays next to Kastani (39° 07’.9N 023°38’.8E), which is one of the places where the musical Mamma Mia was shot. Most of the spots where the moviel was filmed are on the north coasts of Skiathos and Skopelos, so no-go areas in prevailing winds. l Dasia island (39°07’.02N 023°39’.0E) near Skopelos has a series of caves underneath. THE WATER IS BEING WHIPPED Find the correct entrance and you can pass UP INTO A SHORT, SHALLOW right through the island in your dinghy. l Planes fly low on their approach to Skiathos harbour. CHOP AND THE WIND KEEPS ON Be careful not to anchor in their flight path. RISING: IT PEAKS AT 57 KNOTS

instrument keeps on rising: 35 knots, It’s only 6nM to Trikeri, our 40, 42, 50, 54. It peaks at 57 knots. stop for the night (39°09’.4N “It is a good job we are this side 023°05’.0E), and with our high of the gulf,” Christos tells me, as we boat speeds we’re there in no surf, reefed (well, furled) at eight time at all. We go alongside a tiny knots with a following sea. “If we concrete jetty, our stern a couple were on the western side of the gulf of feet from a brightly-coloured it would be bigger waves, like the fishing boat behind us. Time for Aegean Sea. Here can be katabatic a hot shower in one of the four winds but the sea is usually calm.” heads then it’s into Isalos taverna Rodi, for a heavy whale of a yacht, for their famed crayfish spaghetti. handles the wind really well. I’ve I’ve been hearing about this only been in winds that strong a crayfish spaghetti practically couple of times – once mid-Atlantic since I stepped off the bus from and another time in a squall on the Thessaloniki. Christos’s sister approach to Singapore that ripped the Anta, who also works for the clew off our jib – but this feels almost company, mentions it at least easy. No struggling to bring the helm three times the night before we set over and no really bad heeling. In fact, sail. And it doesn’t disappoint. I am having more trouble trying not But first, the tsipouro and the

PHOTOS: EMMA BAMFORD PHOTOS: to be blown over than the Jeanneau is. small dishes that come with it.

sailingtoday.co.uk MEDITERRANEAN 7

MED_Greece_Sporades.indd 7 30/03/2016 14:18 Greece PHOTOS: EMMA BAMFORD PHOTOS: Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 469 Rodi

LOA: 46ft (14.05m) Beam: 14ft 9in (4.49m) Draught: 7ft 4in (2.24m) Year built: 2014 Engine: 54hp Yanmar Sail area: 105.5 sq m Berths: 10 (4 cabins and two in saloon)

I usually have a healthy suspicion busy, though, and there’d be room. l ABOVE the places all to ourselves. We go about local drinks, and I fear that  e village of Trikeri on Trikeri island Skiathos town quay alongside several times just for the tsipouro, distilled from grape skins, (not to be confused with two other l BELOW hell of it. It’s a novelty factor for is going to be like ouzo. But, mixed Trikeris locally) is home to about Cray sh spaghetti Christos, who is used to squeezing is the signature dish with ice and water, it’s actually very 200 people in the summer but only at Isalos taverna the stern of a yacht between the smooth, warming and refreshing 20 now in April.  e two tavernas bows of two others, ra ing out ster- (and hangover-free). It’s served in are open but the small supermarket to from the quay. In some places, aeroplane-miniature bottles, and is closed and shutters are drawn on like Loutraki on Skopelos island, comes either with or without aniseed. all the houses as we climb the hill to the harbour authorities put out Order a tsipouro in this area and, a the top, where there’s a monastery for  oating pontoons for the season but bit like aperitivi in Italy, small sharing religious retreats.  at’s closed, too. when we visit these are in storage. plates come with. Two tsipouros With only a couple of cars on this  e prices to be paid for all the cost about ¤7 (£5 or under), which tiny island, it’s very quiet and I can space, peace and quiet are the is fantastic value with all that food hear the clanking of bells that grazing weather (it swings between no wind thrown in. At Isalos we share a sheep wear around their necks. and 40kt); the cold (I haven’t brought delicious octopus stifado, cooked nearly enough warm layers with me) with lots of onions and oil, skate, a and a reduced choice of places to eat. Greek salad, small fried  sh with e place to ourselves  e next morning we do a U-turn garlic sauce and a deep-fried, breaded Everywhere we visit, over the around Trikeri island, pass through cheese. And then comes the cray sh next few days, is like this – empty the narrow Volos Strait and head spaghetti – eight palm-sized cray sh ice cream kiosks, boarded-up gradually northeast towards Skiathos. still in their shells, tails digging restaurants, empty tables and chairs A er 7nM we stop at Tzasteni bay into their bed of tomatoey pasta. in the streets. Christos tells me of (39°08’.9N 023°07’.9E), which Christos  ere is only one other yacht in charter guests who have complained ONLINE tells me is his favourite. It’s a beautiful our small harbour but in the summer, about Skiathos before, saying they Browse our archive spot. A er we leave, the wind is Christos says, it’s a lot busier – maybe found it too noisy, busy and touristy. of cruising coverage directly on the nose, so it’s a long head- from the UK, the Med 10 boats on the jetty and another 10 at Coming in April, long before and further a eld at: to-wind motor for 35nM towards the anchor. It’s not quite Yarmouth-in-July the season starts, means we have sailingtoday.co.uk town of Skiathos on Skiathos island

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MED_Greece_Sporades.indd 8 30/03/2016 14:18 CZECH REPUBLIC ESCAPE TO SLOVAKIA AUSTRIA FRANCE HUNGARY

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Eating

As well as Tsipouro, octopus is a speciality of this region. It can be boiled or grilled, or slow-cooked with onions, tomatoes and fruit into a stifado (a casserole-type pan). The traditional way to prepare it is to slam ALIA SCHAEFER PHOTO: the octopus on to the stone floor repeatedly to tenderise the flesh. DO IT YOURSELF RESTAURANTS l There are frequent l Seats are also available on l Charter companies ask for Isalos taverna, Trikeri island scheduled flights from charter flights to Skiathos a skipper with a minimum Papades taverna/tsipouradiko, London or Manchester to during peak season, but may of RYA Day Skipper (or ICC) Volos, +30 24210 29360 Thessaloniki and Athens involve a change in Austria. and a co-skipper with at Aegean Wave hotel restaurant, with EasyJet, British Airways, l KTEL coaches run from least RYA Competent Crew. Skopelos, +30 24240 33700 Ryanair and Aegean Airways. Thessaloniki and Athens to l Sailing Holidays have aegeanwave.com Prices start at £30. Volos bus station and take yachts for charter in the Lagou Raxi hotel restaurant, Lafkos, l Monarch flies direct 2.5-4 hours. A one-way Ionian Sea, Saronic Gulf Pelion +30 24230 65144 lagouraxi.com to Volos in August and ticket from Thessaloniki to and Sporades islands Kritsa hotel restaurant, Portaria, Pelion early September. Volos with KTEL is €18 (£13). (sailingholidays.com). +30 2428 0 99121 hotel-kritsa.gr

where, once again, Christos is amazed l ABOVE Don’t cut corners shower doesn’t help all that much. A tranquil mooring to see few yachts on the quayside. at Tzasteni bay Coming out of Koukounaries bay, Again, in April the town is half asleep We stop at Koukounaries bay on Christos, full of helpful tips and local and the good restaurants aren’t open the way (39°08.9’N 023° 21.3’E). It’s sailing knowledge, advises me to yet. Only kebab shops seem to be in easily spotted from shore because head out to sea quite a way before business but we manage to find a bar the large brown Skiathos Palace turning to port towards our harbour. that will fry some meat for us. I don’t hotel glowers on the hillside. There’s “There are many rocks and reefs care that it’s not crayfish spaghetti, as a wide beach. “Don’t come in July here and they have no lights,” he long as it’s hot, and I ask to sit inside, or August,” Christos says. “Can warns. I ensure I do not cut corners. out of the wind. In the morning, we you imagine people everywhere? We round the southern cape walk the town’s streets, which are Very popular for watersports.” I can of Skiathos and turn northeast, busy in a way – with business owners imagine it, but now we’re the only still motoring into head winds. To painting and renovating their shop yacht at anchor. A couple of French our right is a small island called fronts ready for opening in a month’s cruisers are barbecuing in the tiny Tsoungria (39°07’.2N 023°29’.7E). time. Everywhere I look someone has harbour behind a stone breakwater. It’s a good anchorage for the day, a tub of white paint in their hand. We take the dinghy into the harbour, with a nice beach and a kiosk on The weather forecast says we’ll have under a bridge – and once again it’s the beach for lunch. But Christos force seven winds from the northwest. like we’ve been transported, this time warns not to stay at night. “Why?” In Skiathos harbour in the morning into the middle of the countryside. He grins. “Mosquitoes.” He also it’s quiet and calm and I doubt the A lake of brackish water bends advises avoiding the southern corner weathermen. But then I watch the north and west and as we putter of the bay as it’s “too shallow”. smoke from a tanker back 45 degrees along I hear herons’ cracking Skiathos town (39°09’.7N and when we leave the lee of the cries and watch swallows darting 023°29’.8E) is a very popular resort, island we’re in 40 knots and big waves over the flat water’s surface. Small narrow, steep alleyways crowded that have rolled all the way down the garden birds cling to tall plants and with tables and chairs and shops north Aegean. Winds get funnelled sheep eye us suspiciously from the FREE displaying their wares on the through the Skopelos Strait when they bank. The smell of the pine trees is Download more flagstones. By the time we arrive, just have some north in them and it’s an free sailing guide thick in the air and I feel like I am digimags at: after sunset, I am chilled to the bone exhilarating ride over to Loutraki on in New Zealand – not Greece. sailingtoday.co.uk but the wind and even a steaming Skopelos’s west coast.

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MED_Greece_Sporades.indd 11 30/03/2016 14:19 VOLOS

Volos Cement Works Fl.R.3s Fl(2)10s 20 Fl.1.5s Ak Seskoulu Ormos Agros

0 20 2 Ormos Volou

Cement Works

FR Ak Angistri

SKIATHOS TOWN

NISOS SKIATHOS

5 Skiathos Town

Fl.3s N. Dhaskalo Ormos 5 Siferi 5 Ak Plakes

Mirmingia Rks

Ormos Skiathos 5 N. Marango EMMA BAMFORD

Again, Rodi has no problems and I find Rodi, Christos marvelling that she can l ABOVE PALIO TRIKERI Alongside in it easy to steer in the waves, bearing be parked alongside on a quay she has Loutraki, Skopelos away a little in the bigger gusts. all to herself. The food here is excellent Reef – octopus so tender it could pass Pardhalos Pt Cape Alexis for chicken, tsatsiki, Cretan cheese Ag Goirgos Cove On the quay... again bruschettas, very good homemade PALIO TRIKERI But when we motor into Loutraki wine and raki. The sun comes out, the Ag Sofia Cove Cape Pithos (39°09’.8N 023°36’.9E) and try to wind drops and finally, after days of Pithos Cove berth against the quay, she’s not so wearing all of the clothes I brought Palio Trikeri Hbr biddable. Even with a bow thruster, with me, I peel off my jacket, my Ag Ioannis her bow keeps being blown off by the jumper, scarf and second jumper, until Cape Pakhoula winds shooting over the breakwater. eventually I’m just in shirt sleeves. As It takes three goes until we are close we’re the only customers, the owners enough to jump onto the quayside come to join us for a drink and a chat. LOUTRAKI and wrap the thick stern line twice It’s a stunning spot and reminds Loutraki around a makeshift bollard – a bin me why the Greek islands are so Tavernas someone has filled with concrete. popular. After years of cruising really Shops Sail Aegean is opening a second remote places like the Andaman Hotel Many thanks to base here this summer and Christos islands, the thought of tussling with Sail Aegean and to tells me floating pontoons will be 20 flotilla boats for a single rafting Christos Liapis for 5 Tavernas his local knowledge. lowered into the water from a smaller place in a small Greek harbour hadn’t Rock Wall A one-week jetty. The harbour can accommodate really appealed to me. But coming charter with Sail 30-40 boats, including those on here, out of season and getting the Aegean costs €1,000 to €3,000 5 anchor in the southern part, clear place all to myself, has re-ignited (£720-£2,170) of the ferry’s turning circle. my love for the country where I in low season to €1,800 to €5,500 We have a late lunch at Aegean first learned to sail. I’ll definitely (£1,302-£3,976) Fl.R.3s Wave hotel, a 15-minute walk up the come again – out of season, in May in high season, depending on Rock Wall steep hill into Glossa village. There, or September. I’ll just make sure to boat length. Fl.G.3s we sit on a terrace and look down on pack my woolly hat next time. sailaegean.eu

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MED_Greece_Sporades.indd 12 30/03/2016 14:19

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NORTHERN ROUTE From the north, access is via the Lefkas canal, marked at the entrance by Santa Maura castle DALLAS SPIROS/AIRPHOTOS.GR. MAIN PHOTO: GNTO PHOTO: MAIN SPIROS/AIRPHOTOS.GR. DALLAS

MED_GullsEye_Lefkas.indd 14 30/03/2016 14:23 ANCIENT LOCATION The marina is next to the old harbour and is very close to Lefkas town

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CALM WATERS Lefkas is one of the calmest natural harbours in the Ionian and is well-served by yacht services

S W E N

MED_GullsEye_Lefkas.indd 15 30/03/2016 14:23 Steeped in classical history, Le as o ers good cruising and anchorages nearby

e as – also called a popular base for cruisers and beach is one of Europe’s best. Levkas and Le ada charters in the summer and a place Enjoy the natural beauty of ° ’.N, – is an island in the to keep the boat in the winter. ° ’.E the island with a dip under Nidri Ionian Sea of northwest  e Ionian is a key yachting ground waterfall or explore the ancient city Greece famed for its for a reason – steady, reliable winds in of Nirikos. You can soak up the white beaches and cli s the summer months that build around Greek atmosphere in the old town L(l e e s means white in Greek). lunchtime and drop again at sunset, centre squares and cobbled streets,  e fourth largest of the Ionian and easy, tide-free, eyeball navigation. stopping for a spanakopita (cheese islands, it has been claimed to  ere are other harbours pie) and iced co ee at the shady be Ithaca, the home of Homer’s at Nikiana, only 7nM to the taverna terraces. Tuck into some Odysseus, and legend has it south, Nidri, Vliho, Sivota and gourmet seafood at  ymari, where that the spurned poet Sappho Vasiliki, which is a must-see for the hostess Eleni can introduce threw herself to her death from windsur ng fans. Porto Katsiki you to great Greek wines. Yamas! the Cape Le ada cli s.  e island is 22 miles long and nine miles wide and a bridge of only 50m (160 ) links its north- east corner to the mainland. Local berth holder  e main towns are Le as, with Kevan and Linda Whittle its impressive fortress at the end of the ancient canal, the Castle Kevan and UK. Kevan said: “We’ve visited weekends - there are so many of Santa Maura (or Agia Mavra), Linda Whittle most countries and wintered anchorages and tavernas which was built around 1300 by have kept a the boat in most countries and with pontoons nearby. Prince Ioannis Orsini to protect boat in the we’ve gravitated back here “We’re just planning our the town from pirates, and Nidri Med for 23 because it’s such a nice and next trip but we’re thinking of (or ), on the east coast. years and easy cruising ground. We’ve going up to Montenegro for a Its position only 12 miles from now split their time 50/50 been at Lefkas now for about month and then coming back Aktion/Preveza airport, and its between their 36ft Westerly eight years. We often cruise down and circumnavigating average temperatures between Conway sloop, Orion, and the locally near Lefkas on the the Peloponnese.”

10°C and 25°C, makes Le as town PITT/ALAMY MAIN PIC: NICHOLAS

 MEDITERRANEAN sailingtoday.co.uk

MED_GullsEye_Lefkas.indd 16 30/03/2016 14:23 LEFKAS MARINA MARINA GUIDE FACTFILE Peace, calm – and berths for 620 yachts up to 4m draught LEFKAS MARINA

Lefkas Marina is situated on the northeast (147ft) LOA and 4m (13ft) draught. Marina office: open 24/7 corner of the island, tucked between the There is hard standing for some medmarinas.com town and a narrow isthmus. The harbour 280 boats and a large covered shelter. [email protected] is known to be one of the calmest in the A selection of yacht services can be +30 26450 26645 Ionian thanks to its position in a shallow found there, and the fuel dock on Duty officer: +30 6937 390 390 or VHF 69 lagoon, behind the banks of the canal. pontoon K includes facilities for the Facilities: Electricity (220V and 380V), One of the most modern marinas in Greece, disposal of black water and oil. water, 150-ton travel lift, fuel dock, pump it has been operating 24hr per day, 365 days Marina staff will guide visitors to out at fuel dock, toilets and showers, per year since 2002. Lefkas has 620 berths a berth and be there to take lines laundry, rubbish and oil disposal and can accommodate yachts of up to 45m if you call in on VHF Channel 69 Lefkas Port Authority: as you arrive. Berthing is stern- or +30 26450 22322, VHF Channel 12 bows-to, with lazy lines rather than Paleros Yacht Services: pys.gr, +30 26450 29117 eL anchor. Electricity and water is Nautilus Yacht Equipment: a k f metered to all berths, while Wi-Fi is I nautilus.gr, +30 693 709 2092 G C s available through pre-paid cards. H Contract Yacht Services: F m 6 l a n a The marina has been awarded c-y-s.com, +30 264 502 4490 E Europe’s Blue Flag for eco-awareness, Port Police/Coastguard: D meaning a high level of water quality +30 26450 22322, VHF Ch12 and environmental management. C Immigration: +30 26450 29374 There is a supermarket on site Customs House: +30 26450 26520 J for replenishing supplies, or it Port police and Immigration are open 24/7. B Fl.G is a short stroll from the marina Marina Customs is open Mon-Fri 0800-1400 Entrance into Lefkas town, with Venetian A Fl.R churches, the main square and VISITOR BERTHING CHARGES (daily/monthly) K D P numerous cafes and bars. LOA 1 Apr–30 Sept 1 Oct–31 Mar Manager KG Med Marinas also 10.5m €36/€397 €20/€272 11.5m €40/€454 €23/€299 runs Gouvia Corfu, Kalamata and 12.5m €45/€508 €24/€321 Zea Pireaus, where annual berth- 13.5m €51/€564 €26/€343 LEFKAS 14.5m €56/€619 €29/€366 MARINA holders receive 40 per cent off. Book 15.5m €59/€676 €30/€391 MAIN PIC: GNTO PIC: MAIN a berth online at medmarinas.com.

sailingtoday.co.uk MEDITERRANEAN 17

MED_GullsEye_Lefkas.indd 17 30/03/2016 14:23 TAILOR-MADE YACHTING HOLIDAYS... THE SUNSCAPE WAY

FLOTILLA & BAREBOAT CHARTER

TURKEY I GREECE I CROATIA I SARDINIA I CARIBBEAN I SICILY I BALEARICS 01737 300805 [email protected] www.sunscapeyachting.co.uk

Very competitive rates!

Luxury crewed Mediterranean yacht charter (Captain and chef). Stunning food! Up to six guests. Palma based until end of May then all points East. www.tashatooiii.com | [email protected] Gull’s Eye ~ Lefkas

Lefkas Bay 9 5 5 7 8 Fl.G.1.5s 8 5 3 5 5 8 veza Fl(2)WR.12s Fort Santa Maura to Pre Swing Bridge Salt Lagoon

Ruin 6 1

Aqueduct

3 6

4 7 Salt Lagoon Lefkas 2 7

Lefkas Marina NIKOLAOS LOUKAS/AIRPHOTOS.GR NIKOLAOS

Salt Works PASSAGE PLANNING

L a fk A fort, a swing bridge, but don’t cut the corners as

C

a Kaligoni na l 6

m Yachts approaching Lefkas will use leading from the first red mark to the Lefkas canal, which is described the land is an ancient underwater in various places as being dredged breakwater. Locals warn not to to 4.5m or 8m (8-26ft), and being hug the red marks too closely. 40-100m (130-328ft) wide. The edge of Nisos Volios is also From the north, the entrance to marked by a white and red light Ag Georgios LEFKAS No.9 the canal is next to the conspicuous flashing every 1.5 seconds. QG Paliochalia Pt Santa Maura castle. There is a small About three-quarters of a mile up breakwater but don’t go too close to it, the channel, after a small island to No.8 No.7 QR Salt Works QG as it frequently silts up off the end and starboard and salt pans to port, are Forti there is often a dredger at work there. power cables with a maximum air No.6 QR The north entrance to the canal is lit draught of 40m (130ft). Just after Kariotes No.5 QG at night by a port hand light at the the cables, the canal starts. Keep castle (Fl (2) WR 12s) and a starboard closer to the spit for deeper water. No.4 No.3 QR QG light flashing green every 1.5 seconds. Until the end of 2016 the north At the end of the castle is a and south entrances are being Fort Agios floating bridge that opens on the widened and deepened so yachts 5 Georgios Volios hour, every hour, between 0600 and must be cautious of tugs, barges No.2 Fl.WR.1.5s QR No.1 2200. It may also open on demand and floating cranes and keep clear. QG 8 – call the bridge operator on VHF 5 5 5 8 12 Ch12. South-bound traffic has 14 7 8 11 right of way through the bridge. 23 From the swing bridge, it’s a Fl.R.3s Charter companies Ligia Drepamos Bay half-a-mile transit south-south- in the Ionian west along the canal to the marina. Anchoring is forbidden in the harbour, as it is considered to be l Sailing Holidays: sailingholidays.com; l Imray: G11, G12, G121, part of the approach channel. bareboatsailingholidays.com M20 Sardinia to Coming from the south, enter SAVE ON Cyprus and Port Said the canal through a buoyed l Late Sail: latesail.com CHARTS l Pilots: Greek Waters channel, between Ligia on l Nisos Yacht: Save up to 15% on Pilot, Rod and Lucinda the island and Volios, with its nisosyachtcharter.com charts and pilots Heikell; Ionian, Rod when you buy at the conspicuous Ag Georgiou fort. l Tenrag: tenrag.com and Lucinda Heikell Sailing Today Shop There are four lit, port- and l Sail Ionian: sailionian.com sailingtoday.co.uk/shop starboard-hand buoys, all quick flashing. Do not cut the corner, as

sailingtoday.co.uk MEDITERRANEAN 19

MED_GullsEye_Lefkas.indd 19 30/03/2016 14:24 Gull’s Eye ~ Lefkas

CRUISING GROUNDS Corelli’s Mandolin. The Kefalonian port of Fiskardo is only about A cruiser’s dream with charter opportunities 10nM south of Vasiliki, which is on the southern shore of Lefkas. On Lefkas island itself, Nidri and With few hazards, clear waters, Ionian chain. To the north are Corfu, l ABOVE Vliho sit in an enclosed bay that The secluded reliable sea breezes and point- Paxos and Anti-Paxos, with secluded and peaceful offers good shelter and Sivota is a and-go sailing, the Ionian bays, beautiful natural harbours beach of Poros on pretty village but very popular with islands are a cruiser’s dream. and white sandy beaches. On the Lefkas, Greece flotillas, so perhaps best avoided Being so close to the airport, mainland in this area are pretty in peak season, unless you enjoy Lefkas is often a jumping-off point for waterfront fishing villages including having your anchor fouled by exploring the Ionian, and many charter Plataria, Mourtos and Parga. large groups of yachts rafting up. companies have their bases there. The southern islands include Ithaca To the east of Lefkas island, in the The island is conveniently and Kefalonia, made famous by the enclosed areas framed by Lefkas, positioned in the middle of the film of Louis de Bernières’ Captain Kefalonia and the mainland, are the smaller islets, such as Meganisi, Kastos and Kalamos. Skorpios, the private island of the Onassis family, is Further contacts RESTAURANTS where Aristotle wed Jackie Kennedy. Lefkas tourist information: Thymari: Lefkas town, It has since passed into the hands of a lefkasculturalcenter.gr thymari-.gr Russian tycoon and remains private, +30 2645026635 +30 26450 22266 as does the islet of Madouri, home Archaeological Museum: Ef Zin: Lefkas town, of the poet Aristoteles Valaoritis Aggelou Sikelianou, Lefkas +30 6974 641 160 and owned by his family still. Many Kochyli: Lefkas town, town, +30 2645 021635 islands are only a couple of miles +30 26450 22436 International Folklore away from each other, so you can Ksouras: Ligia town, Festival: Lefkas, last week easily breakfast on one and enjoy a +30 26450 71312 of August, lefkada.gr sundowner on another, stopping for

PHOTO: STEPHEN FRENCH/ALAMY PHOTO: a swim at a third in between.

20 MEDITERRANEAN sailingtoday.co.uk

MED_GullsEye_Lefkas.indd 20 30/03/2016 14:24 Go beyond bareboating

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D742-latesail-Sailing-today-202x129-AW2.indd 1 21/03/2016 10:54 Cruising ~ Med islands

MARE NOSTRUM

Cruising the lesser-known Med in Malta, Palma and Cyprus

22 MEDITERRANEAN sailingtoday.co.uk

MED_Islands.indd 22 30/03/2016 14:25 Cruising ~ Med islands

hink of the These days, however, they are often the Phoenicians, Carthaginians, Mediterranean, and overlooked when it comes to cruising Romans, Normans, the Knights of the chances are that the Mediterranean. We decided to St John, the French and finally the a sunkissed beach set the record straight with help British, Malta and her sister islands with a little taverna from some daring, unconventional of Gozo and Comino form one of on a quiet island will cruisers who have explored these the more exciting cruising spots Tspring to mind. There are islands and other lesser known islands in in the south of the Mediterranean. beyond count here, literally southern Med. They uncovered The Rolex Middle Sea Race has thousands, and many of them quiet anchorages, wildlife reserves done much to put the island on well known to cruising sailors in and even some friendly locals. the world sailing fixtures list. With Croatia, Turkey and Greece. a mild climate all year round, a Mallorca in the west, Malta variety of attractions and a range of and Cyprus in the east are hardly Malta accommodation facilities, Malta’s unknown Med islands, with MICHAEL HOWORTH strategic geographical position in the colourful maritime histories dating Conquered, colonised and heart of the Mediterranean, makes

MAURITIUS GMBH/ALAMY IMAGES back to the Phoenicians in 1500BC. governed by civilisations including it a natural cruising choice.

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MED_Islands.indd 23 30/03/2016 14:25 Malta

Explore 130 beautiful sandy beaches, historic ports and pretty harbours

Only 2.5 hours from the UK to the Port of Mahón

Tel: +34 660 647 845 email: [email protected]

Circumnavigate Menorca www.menorcacruising.com Med islands

The island is littered with bays and harbours in which to overnight. Because one coast is not far from the other, there are always some that are totally unaffected by wind direction and sea swell. On Malta, our favourites include Island Bay, Marsaskala, Grand Harbour, Marsamxett, Baluta Bay, Mellieha Bay, Paradise Bay, Golden Bay and Ghajn Tuffieha Bay. Gozo is smaller but even so, Mgarr Harbour, Xlendi, Dwejra, Marsalforn, Ramla

il Hamra and San Blas all offer HOWORTH FRANCES good and safe anchorages. With an area of just 1.35 square miles, the smallest island of all is Comino l ABOVE south to Fomm ir Rih and spent an Colourful Maltese and there, the famous Blue Lagoon fishing boats in afternoon further south at the Blue anchorage is among our favourites M’Xlokk harbour Grotto, where we used the dinghy to

along with Crystal Lagoon, Santa l BELOW visit wonderfully scenic sea caverns. Maria Bay and San Niklaw Bay. The beautiful natural Sailing into Malta’s Grand wonder of Blue On our most recent trip, we Grotto, Malta Harbour and docking at the achieved several hours of sailing Camper & Nicholson’s Marina every day, stopping for lunch and l PREVIOUS PAGE there, has to be a highlight of any The Anglican swimming in as many quiet spots as cathedral of St Paul sailing trip to Malta. It makes a we could in a relaxed day. Exploring makes an imposing dramatic approach, and from here backdrop to the caves by dinghy and in the water just well-sheltered harbour it is easy to take a walk through makes the whole experience more of Valletta, Malta CLAIRE HOWORTH the capital city, Valetta, a world fun. This is an island with a host Fourten heritage site and visit the St John’s of things to do ashore – whether Dufour 410 Grand’ Large Co-Cathedral to see Caravaggio’s you love archaeology, history, The Beheading of St John. Go to diving, shopping, spas, fine dining Safe Haven Gardens in Senglea, or late night action you will find LOA: 40ft 6in (12.4m) one of the Three Cities and enjoy it here. With a church for every LWL: 36ft 6in (11.2m) the stunning view of Valetta and day of the year, there is always Beam: 13ft 9in (4.2m) across to the marina at Vittoriosa. one village celebrating the feast Draught: 6ft 10in (2.1m) Hire a local guide, as we did. Clive of its patron saint each weekend Cortis (maltaprivateguide.com) is a in the summer, with magnificent sailor at heart and knows his island processions and fireworks, each five-minute walk from the marina, well. He took us to see the Neolithic village trying to outdo its neighbour. we set sail for two pleasant hours Mnajdra and Hagar Qim Temples. We were sailing in Fourten, a beating up to Mellieha where we Visit Mdina – the oldest city on the Dufour 410 Grand’ Large chartered spent the night tucked up safely island and an important UNESCO from S&D Yachts. Having been met from the prevailing NW winds. heritage site to wonder at her curving by the company at the airport, we We sailed northwards and streets and fortified bastions. Stop were taken aboard the boat as she across to the car-free and almost lay in Roland’s Marina in Ta Xbiex uninhabited island of Comino and (pronounced tash-bish). After lunch anchored at Taht il Mazz in the Blue TOP MALTA at the Royal Malta Yacht Club just a Lagoon. This sheltered inlet with ANCHORAGES its shimmering aquamarine water St Julian’s Bay - swimming, good over white sand is very popular with local restaurants and bars day-trippers, so staying there when Marsascala - a picturesque bay they are not around is a great treat. with good shoreside walks Gozo and the anchorage of Dwejra Marrsaxlokk - pretty fishing was next, a short cruise away in village in the southeast some exciting NW winds. From Blue Grotto - more a day stop for there, we sailed to Ramla Bay before guests to view the grotto heading back to the main island of Dwejra Bay (Gozo) - near-perfect Malta and anchoring in Paradise circular bay in Fungus Rock Bay on the northwestern tip, glad Crystal Lagoon (Comino) - to be sheltering from a boisterous crystal-clear water

FRANCES HOWORTH FRANCES southeasterly. Departing, we sailed

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MED_Islands.indd 25 30/03/2016 14:26 Med islands

off at M’Xlokk and admire the colourful fishing boats and the local lace being sold in the small market. So much culture will work up your appetite and Malta has plenty of excellent food to offer. Visit Stefan’s Bakery in Misrah Muxi for Maltese bread with its thick golden crust, hot from the stone oven in the back of his small shop. Ask if he has any of his delicious Maltese pizza with potato and herbs on top. Drop into the Coronation Bar, a village institution for a delicious local beer. For great local cuisine try Rubino in Valetta. Julian Sammut, the owner, will introduce you to Maltese meze, squid, marrow stuffed with ricotta or the popular rabbit stew. Leave room for Biskuttini Tar-Rahal (village biscuits) flavoured with caraway and lemon or Krustini, made with olive oil. To wash it all down, break open a bottle or two of Maltese wine. There are some excellent vintages available and if you want to take some back to your yacht, visit the Meridiana wine estate for a tasting.

Cabrera Islands (Mallorca) l ABOVE JÖRG UNGER

FRANCES HOWORTH FRANCES The author beats out of the anchorage at In April 1991, the Spanish their crews were going for a swim ABOUT THE AUTHOR Cabrera under the government declared Cabrera and or preparing for the night. We took stern gaze of the 15th Frances and Michael Howorth are Century El Castell the 18 surrounding islets of the the opportunity to explore a huge an award winning team of archipelago a national park. To cave cut into the cliff in ancient times professional freelance writers l FACING PAGE Southwest of Palma, visit the island of Cabrera Gran, and enjoyed dinner on the boat as specialising in yachts large and the Cala de Portals which lies just 7.5 sea miles south of well as a nice sunset afterwards. The small. Frances is a photographer, while offers a safe anchorage for up to 30 boats Mallorca, we chartered a Bavaria 37 glowing sunrise in the morning was Michael is a qualified Captain certificated in the port of Palma that we soon even more spectacular and promised to command large yachts up to 3,000 left to escape the hustle and bustle a great trip to the Archipelago of tons. The couple have written several of the big city. Cabrera. By now the weather was books mostly about yachts, yachting As the wind was favourable and starting to change and when the the day long enough for reaching a swell made the boat seesaw, we took quiet and cosy bay outside the Bahia off to sail southeast across the Bahia, Charter Operators in Malta de Palma, we set sail for the Cala de heading for the islands. Domina Yacht Charter dominacharters.co.uk Portals that lies southwest of Palma. Arriving at the island of Cabrera Malta Sailing Charters maltasailingcharter.com The bay near Sol de Mallorca offers is already one of the highlights of Malta Sailing Holidays maltasailingholidays.com four small beaches, two bars and a a visit to the National Park. The Nautica Yacht Charter yachtchartermalta.com restaurant as well as enough space lighthouse of Cap de Llebeig to S & D Yachts sdyachts.com for about 30 vessels. A few sailing starboard and El Castell, built by Sailing Charters Malta sailingchartersmalta.com boats, motor boats and catamarans Arabs in the 14th century to guard had already dropped anchor and against attacks by Berber pirates

26 MEDITERRANEAN sailingtoday.co.uk

MED_Islands.indd 26 30/03/2016 14:26 Med islands

of Cap Ventóis and Cap Imperialet and flamingos, white storks and other migrant birds take rest on their journey to and from Africa. Ashore here is the office of the Natural Park; we had a snack in Es Port, which is just a dusty pier and a few buildings, ‘guarded’ by two old cannons in front of the former military canteen Sa Cantina. We went up the trail to the castle that was destroyed and rebuilt on numerous occasions and can be visited after recent repairs. From its look-out, we had a great view of the bay, the small pier and the cliffs that edge both sides of the narrows. On the way back, we visited a memorial built in 1847 to the 7,000 French prisoners of war who were marooned on the island during the Battle of Bailén in 1809. Only half of them survived the five years of privation until they were freed. A small museum tells the history of Cabrera, which once belonged to the Byzantine Empire and was already known by Phoenicians, Carthaginians, and Romans. Due to the islands’ strategic location, a garrison was established in 1916 and its military status is another reason why public visits are restricted. Two marked trails invite you to discover more of the island. One

JÖRG UNGER JÖRG leads to the lighthouse of Punta Anciola in the southwest, which was built in the 1860s, and the other led us into the Porto de Cabrera, Bavaria 37 path winds up to the summit of which is the best natural refuge of Miranda (485ft) that more or less the island and the only area of the dominates the scenery. The park National Park with any facilities. LOA: 37ft 1in (11.3m) service offers guided excursions to Anchoring here is forbidden, so LWL: 33ft 6in (10.2m) the interior of the island as well as sailors have to moor to the 50 red, Beam: 12ft 0in (3.7m) to Cova Blava, a ‘blue grotto’ in the yellow and white buoys in the bay. To Draught: 6ft 5in (2.0m) north of Cala Gandulf. The cave, stay the night, skippers must apply 175m long and 55m wide, impresses in advance for a navigation permit with its radiant blue, imparted by in the headquarters of the National Park (Plaza de Espana in Palma, +971 725 010, [email protected]) READER Daylight anchoring is also OFFER permitted in the Cala Es Burri in the Islas Baleares Pilot, Graham Hutt / east of Cabrera from 8am to 7pm, RCCPF, Imray as well as along the coastline in the Italian Waters Pilot north. Supervised by park rangers, & Turkish Waters & Cyprus Pilot, Rod all other areas of the archipelago Heikell / Imray are closed to sailing, anchoring and Imray charts M3, diving to protect tortoiseshell and M50, M21 green sea turtles. Storm petrels, 15% OFF RRP coral seagulls, and ospreys have built sailingtoday.co.uk

towering nests in the steepest crags /shop UNGER JÖRG

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MED_Islands.indd 27 30/03/2016 14:26 Med islands

the sunlight that shines into the cave in the afternoon, reflected by the sandy ground of the cave. Cabrera Gran, also called the ‘goatherd’, has a surface area of six square miles and a coastline of 24 miles – the biggest island of the archipelago. The wild goats were evacuated several years ago, as they jeopardised the scrubland. Today the island is covered with pines, junipers and wild olives, and between rosemary, heather and spurges, we also discovered the tall pedicels of autumn sea squills. Leaving the Cabrera, we passed the islets of Illa des Conills, Na Plana and

Na Foradada with its lighthouse to MICHAEL BUERK warn of the most northern islet of the archipelago. While we headed to the harbour of Sa Rapita, we even saw a dolphin that bobbed up starboard to catch a glimpse of our Bavaria 37. KARPAZ GATE KARPAZ

l TOP The author cruised North Cyprus Coast; love it or loathe it. In truth, to North Cyprus in MICHAEL BUERK its delights and its drawbacks are 2010 with the East Mediterranean Rally, It’s a long overnight sail to the equally balanced. In its favour, it an event he praised as country that doesn’t exist. A painful has a good climate, (generally) being “as much a race against liver failure as one, in my case. Just an hour out of predictable and decent winds, a test of seamanship” Alanya on the Turkish mainland, I friendly people, cheap fuel, food ABOUT THE AUTHOR had deftly contrived to trap my little and booze, two quaint towns, two l ABOVE Jörg M. Unger is a freelance writer and Girne’s harbour has finger in the port genoa winch and cheap marinas. The scenery is photographer from Thuringia, seen millenia of snapped it like a bar of Kit Kat. dramatic and it offers perhaps the human activity, with Germany, who has been working for the area settled as I am heroic by nature; stoical to last unspoilt stretch of Mediterranean English language travel and consumer far back as 5,800BC. a fault. But my screams could have coast. It is no secret that many UK The castle dates from magazines, papers and websites for 17 Byzantine times kept us safe in the thickest fog. The expatriates have taken up here. years. He has sailed with friends in the language would have shocked even the But it is isolated. You can’t sail to the Baltic and Mediterranean Sea Amazons of the Little Ship Club. It was Greek side from the North, though numerous times. a good job the gin in Northern Cyprus you can cross by land. There are hardly is a quarter the price it is in Turkey. any safe anchorages and bureaucracy is By the time I got there, I needed it. heavy with some backwater sloppiness. Mallorca charter It’s a strange place. Only one Girne (Kyrenia) is the main town, Seamaster Yachting country in the world acknowledges the most charming on the island. seamaster.co.uk the existence of the Turkish Republic It has a picturesque harbour and a Nautilus Yachting of Northern Cyprus –that’s Turkey, magnificent mountain backdrop. nautilusyachting.com the country that invaded in 1974 Delta Marina is small, friendly, Charter Mallorca after the coup by Greek Cypriot crowded and quaint with two floating chartermallorca.net officers that it reckoned threatened pontoons and room for a maximum Sunsail sunsail.co.uk the Turkish minority on the island. 80 boats afloat with the same number Mallorca Charterpoint To cruise there is to sail off the on the hard. There’s a 30-ton travel lift mallorcacharterpoint.com official map and into another time. and a fuel dock. Think homely. The CM Charter cmcharter.de What you find when you get there town centre is a 15-minute walk. is the Mediterranean’s Marmite Famagusta, by far the island’s most

28 MEDITERRANEAN sailingtoday.co.uk

MED_Islands.indd 28 30/03/2016 14:27 Med islands KARPAZ GATE MARINA GATE KARPAZ

jacuzzis, good security. The staff are l ABOVE broody turtles. Guzelyurt (formerly Golden Beach on the friendly and helpful with occasional southern side of the Morphou) to the west is the great citrus rough edges. We arrived there on one Karpaz peninsula is growing area. I was trapped there famous for the turtles East Mediterranean Rally, 40 yachts which nest in the sand for a week in 1974 in a UN post that desperate for fuel, to find they had ended up in no-man’s-land during the run out – despite a year’s notice. fighting. It’s quieter now. Very quiet, But it is a great marina. And it has in fact. So it’s great as a destination, been very, very cheap. Free, in fact, but not as a cruising area. A warm Skysong when it first opened and still doing place to overwinter, in remote luxury Malö 43 very attractive deals. The snag is at Karpaz Gate or in town at Delta. that it’s 50 miles from anywhere. I like Northern Cyprus perhaps LOA: 43ft 11in (13.4m) because it seems rather quaint, even LWL: 35ft 4in (10.8m) backward, in comparison to the Beam: 13ft 0in (4.0m) rampant development on the Greek Draught: 6ft 6in (2.0m) side. The ruins of Bellapais Abbey, high in the hills over Girne is the most picturesque spot on the island. The Karpaz peninsula is largely deserted, important harbour and thriving but famous for its wild donkeys and tourist destination before the 1974 invasion, is now rather ramshackle and sad, with few facilities for yachties. North Cyprus MICHAEL BUERK Karpaz Gate Marina, on the north Karpaz Gate Marina karpazbay.com ABOUT THE AUTHOR side of the peninsula, is one of the Delta Marina, Girne Michael Buerk is a well-known journalist, newest and best equipped in the delta-marina.com presenter and broadcaster who has Med. It’s got the lot: 300 berths with North Cyprus tourist board sailed since his 40s. He keeps his Malö power, water and TV connections, welcometonorthcyprus.co.uk 43 in Göcek, Turkey and regularly cruises a 300t lift, beach club, infinity pool, Greek and Turkish waters with his wife.

sailingtoday.co.uk MEDITERRANEAN 29

MED_Islands.indd 29 30/03/2016 14:27 APPROACH CHANNEL Between Nimara/Yildiz (on the left in this picture) and Kecil Adasi (on the right here)

CRUISE SHIP DOCK Berth here, on the outside, if Marmaris is your fi rst port of call in Turkey, before heading in to the marina

CUSTOMS & IMMIGRATION

HARBOUR OFFICE

GULL’S EYE MARMARIS TURKEY

°’.N °’. E OLEKSANDR IVANCHENKO/ALAMY OLEKSANDR

MED_Gulls_Eye_Marmaris.indd 30 30/03/2016 14:29 ICMELER Another pretty town to explore, which OLD TOWN you can anchor o­ Gulets line the town quay, with the old town and castle behind. Restaurants line the street on the walk from the marina

NETSEL SERVICES S W Supermarket, boatyard facilities, workshops, ATM and cafes are all on site E N

MED_Gulls_Eye_Marmaris.indd 31 30/03/2016 14:29  e bay of Turkey’s Marmaris o ers the town centre marina of Netsel. By Emma Bamford

armaris Limanı and the local Turkish gulets, and  rm and you’ll be le alone. Many is one of Turkey’s o er fresh  sh, and you can choose ° .’N also as an overwintering spot. biggest yachting °. ’E Marmaris town, on the site of the your dinner from a bed of ice. Finish centres. It is a ancient city of Physkos, is in the o with a short, strong co ee, served natural bay, a northern tip of the bay and visitors with obligatory Turkish delight. little over 2nM by using Netsel Marina have only to In the centre of the town is a M3nM in size, protected to the south hop o their boat to be in the town labyrinth of shops selling fake by two islands, Keçi and Nimara centre. Next to the marina, across ‘designer’ goods, including electronics, (also known as Yıldız), making it a small bridge, is a promenade of which vary in quality – don’t forget a very sheltered piece of water. restaurants with outdoor seating. In to haggle. Find a decent-looking  is protection, coupled with Turkish style, you’ll be accosted by copy of a well-known handbag clear blue waters, high spring and ‘greeters’ (touts) as you walk past but brand and your wife/daughter/ summer temperatures and the take their cards with a smile and be mother may love you forever. pretty backdrop of the forested hills of Marmaris National Park, means it is a popular sailing ground, both with charter out ts, Local berth holder watersports enthusiasts (Neilsen Mats Johansson has a base here with yachts, dinghies and small catamarans), We bought our facilities are well priced. Most X-Yachts 482, berthholders are genuine yacht AleXandra, in people and the charter companies August 2014 and being there, and an X-Yachts retailer, have kept it in is another positive. Netsel marina ever We try to sail at least four weeks since. Marmaris is a per year. So far we have only had fantastic place that we really time to explore the areas not too appreciate and Netsel is a top far away from Marmaris, along location in this beautiful area. the Turkish coast towards Daccia Security is high and all necessary and east towards Fethiye. CREATIVE COMMONS/IHOURAHANE CREATIVE

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NETSEL MARINA. GRANT ROONEY PREMIUM/WORLD PICTURES/ALAMY tanks pumpedtanks out at appropriate locations. carry. These provethat you have had your waste office sells blue cards,all yachts which must and asupermarket for provisions. The marina as well as restaurants the on promenade, the with you). There arecafés withinthe marina, ship documents original (take cruise dock southeastthe corner, on way the round to the salon and hairdresser, and an ATM on site. centre with Turkish bath and sauna, beauty charge (extra swimming pool applies), fitness and waste station near entrance. the toilets, showersberth, and dock afuel alongsidedock just outside marina. the at bow the rather than anchors. ships Cruise long pontoons, stern-to withlines lazy out 130 on hard. the is Med-style on Berthing and 2.5mdraught on water the and spacefor There berthing for is 720yachts up to 90m Marina, Albatros and charter the Pupa). base are three others bay inthe –Marmaris Yacht Netsel is Marmaris’s town centre marina (there Berthing for 720 yachts is available with good facilities MARINA GUIDE Customs and immigration are located in Wi-Fi is included rates inthe and there is a There is water every andto electricity NETSEL MARINA operates 11inTurkey and Greek the islands. at Netsel, by is which run Marinas, Setur which Turkey and there are lots of businesses on site one of biggest the centres yacht in service marinathe office customs.and Marmaris is winter and fly home must file with paperwork wantingThose to leaveboatstheir forthe The marinaallows long-term liveaboards.

SAILING LMANAC

NETSEL MARINA

Armour Rock

Barbaros Caddesi

Harbour

Town

Entrance Marina Fl.G D Fl(2)R.6s B

A

MIYC Shopping Mall C N M D L E K F

G Mustafa Munir Elgin Bulvan Elgin Munir Mustafa H Based on m Travel lift 100tonnes 0830-2100 Apr-Oct Open Marmaris’ ‘Port VHF Ch 06 call sign 27 08/ +90 252 412 14 39 netselmarina.com 0700-1900 UTC Weather shops behind the marina Gas/gaz – Fuel [email protected] Electrician Teknik +90 252 413 42 59 marlin.com.tr; Bogazici Marin 412 14 41 marlin.com.tr info@ Engineer Cetin Marin +90 252 413 6461 50 [email protected]; Anker Yatcilik +90 252 412 93 33 63 [email protected]; Marine Mobile Generalyacht services – available from agents Transitlog available from marina office card Blue card (€0.46 per kW) Electricity Water Annual Monthly Weekly Daily LOA and 3.6mbeam: stamp tax, eg boat 12m and beam) xduration +1% NETSELMARINA FACTFILE VISITOR BERTHING CHARGES BERTHING VISITOR sailingtoday.co.uk – in marina 0830-1900 Nov-Mar; included included VHF Ch 67 c£2.50 (10 lira) – Marlin Yatcilik +90 252 on pre-paid

c£57 (250 lira) AC/DC Marin availablefrom 2 boat area (LOA +90 252 413 c£3,653 (€4,887) c£882 (€1,180) c£335 (€448) c£48 (€64) MEDITERRANEAN +90 252 412

30/03/2016 14:31 33 Gull’s Eye ~ Marmaris

PASSAGE 28°14’·0 E 28°16’·0 E 28°18’·0 E PLANNING MARMARIS Fl(2)R.6s 14 FG Netsel Marina Fl.R Look for a northeast 17 heading to Marmaris 3 Delihurma Br. Albatros Marina Fl(2)R 5 Anchorage but there’s good depth Area 25 20 17 10 20 to the quay and marina Siteler 27 25 25 36°50’·0 N 24 36°50’·0 N 5 1 Uectas 10 On the approach to the bay from 32 Ada Agzi 26 30 Gokburun Goek Tepe 20 35 Anchorage the south, Nimara/Yıldız island is Area 20

conspicuous, with its 400m peak. 30 30 Ya lancibogaz Karabatakta 35 34 35 26 Boats must pass to the west but can 5 20 MARMARIS 37 Sedir Adasi Fl.G go either side of the smaller Keçi ADAKOY LIMANI Kirselik Br. Adasi, which is next to it. There’s Karakulak 34 Marmaris Yacht Marina 34 34 Karayar plenty of water either side. You 37 Akburun Capievi Br. Ince Br. 10 20 Kuecuekkargi Akyar Br. might want to pass to the west of Pamucak Fl.3s 33 34 20 the smaller island if you are heading Hayitli Br. Bueyuekkargi Karatas 25 Izmir 18 40 for the anchorage at Içmeler before Cukuru 37 40 Golenye Koyu Doekuek Br. moving on to Marmaris town; K ECI A D ASI NIMARA A D ASI Buyukbogaz Kizilkum 50 20 otherwise it makes more sense ICMELER Kudukbogaz 20 Gecidi Gemiparlayan Koyu Gecidi 30 36 to pass between the two islands. 36°48’·0 N Fl.Y.5s Cagalli Br. 34 36°48’·0 N

Rocks to the south of Keçi are Karga Adasi Keciada Feneri Kir Br 55 Fl.R.2s marked by a light (Fl R 2s) and 38 Alicli Koyu 39 Kocakizilkum 20 38 Aksu Br Kuetuek Br anchoring is not permitted in the 42 Abdireis Koyu Alkaya Br Kizilkum Sarimhemet Br. 48 50 59 channel between Keçi and Nimara. 50 60 62 There’s another, white light (Fl 3s) 57 40 at the channel’s exit, marking the 28°14’·0 E 28°16’·0 E 28°18’·0 E northwestern-most point of Nimara. Once past the islands you’ll want a north-northeast heading dock (Fl G light) to the southwest. dock near the cruise ships on the to Marmaris – you’ll be able to Marmaris is a port of entry and outside of the marina while you see the town’s lights by night, the authorities are all at Netsel complete the entry formalities. or buildings and a water park (also at Marmaris Yacht Marina, READER You will also need to buy an e-visa on the hillside by day – and you in the east of the bay, near Adakoy. OFFER before you arrive, which allows Imray: G36 Marmaris have plenty of depth (18-30m). You will need to buy or have a to Kekova Adasi you to stay no longer than 90 days As you reach the marina there is an Transit Log (cruising and crew East Aegean and in a six-month period and can be old castle next to the town quay. The record) – approximate cost £57. Turkish Waters & bought online at evisa.gov.tr. Cyprus Pilot, both marina entrance, which is less than a There are agents near the marina Rod Heikell For longer stays, for example cable wide, is between a mole (Fl R 6s that sell these. If this is your first over the winter, you will need to Save 20% in the ST light) to the northeast and cruise ship port of call in Turkey you should shop sailingtoday. apply for a residence permit. co.uk/shop using discount code MAR316

l LEFT Marmaris old town and harbour at dusk

l RIGHT Street scene in

AGENCJA FOTOGRAFICZNA CARO/ALAMY FOTOGRAFICZNA AGENCJA the old town KOKNAR COMMONS/SARP CREATIVE

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MED_Gulls_Eye_Marmaris.indd 34 30/03/2016 14:31 IMAGE BROKER/ALAMY CRUISING GROUNDS Cruise miles of beautiful Aegean coastline and the Carian coast

With 4,500 miles of coastline, there’s l ABOVE (160nM) and you’ll be on a fast beam stern-to to rocks, with a bow anchor Ancient sites including plenty to choose from in Turkey, this theatre, at the to broad reach most of the way – out, when you’re off the beaten track. the land where West meets East. ancient city of Knidos, but be wary of the katabatic gusts Sadly the number of refugees trying From Marmaris you have miles overlook the Aegean coming off the mountains. If you’re to cross the sea from western Turkey of Aegean cruising. To the north- heading back to Marmaris from to Greece remains high, although west you have the famous Carian Fethiye on a charter, take advantage cruisers have not reported suffering coast, home to Datca, Knidos, of the calm early mornings to avoid personal issues from this. Advice is to with its ancient Greek ruins, and, too much of a slog to windward. report any sightings of boats carrying farther north, Bodrum. To reach Carry a long line (70m) and a good refugees to the Turkish Coastguard the Gokova Gulf it’s little more length of chain (4-5m) for tying immediately on VHF Ch 16. than 10 miles by land but you have to go the long way round by sea (c70nM) – no bad thing, since there USEFUL CONTACTS are plenty of anchorages along the E-visa application Marmaris restaurants 00 22 [email protected] way. You’ll come within spitting evisa.gov.tr UK citizens – try any on Barbaros Albatros Marina distance of Greek territory as you c£14Further ($20) for contacts 90 days Caddesi street. albatrosmarina.com +90 go (Simi and Nisiros islands) and Touristxxx: xxxboard gototurkey.co.uk National Park walks 252 412 24 56 info@ you’ll be on a beam reach for the TurkishRESTAURANTS Consulate Call nationalparksofturkey.com albatrosmarina.com majority of the way, but there’ll be Centrexxx: xxx(for residency or visa Aquadream Waterpark Other Turkish marinas no escaping some beating into the enquiries) +44 (0)20 3608 aquadreammarmaris.com seturmarinas.com prevailing NW meltemi at times. 8090 turkishconsulate.org.uk Pupa Yacht Hotel and Marina Gulet Yacht Charter Going the other way, eastwards Dalaman International Airport pupa.com.tr +90 242 413 18 bluevoyageyachts.com from Marmaris, you have the is 90km away. Fly direct 53 [email protected] Yacht charter Lycian Coast, wild, rugged and from most UK airports on Marmaris Yacht Marina perfect-sailing.com mountainous. This takes you to EasyJet, Monarch and Jet2 yatmarin.com +90 252 422 sunscapeyachting.co.uk Fethiye (40nM) and on to Antalya

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