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Tips

model) Jeanneau Sun Odyssey z Definitely visit Trikeri (39°09.2’N 023D 04.5’E) if 469 – Rodi, named a$er Poseidon’s you can. Saturday afternoons and Sundays are the daughter. With four double cabins busiest, when locals pop over for the weekend. and four heads, it’s more than z Tzasteni bay (39°08.9’N 023D 07.9’E) looks like enough for me and my tour guide - little more than a white house from the sea but the base manager, Christos Liapis. head in and you’ll find a well-protected bay, pretty It’s a boat undoubtedly suited curved beach and perfect water for swimming. to charterers – the cockpit is huge and %tted with subwoofer sound z We paid no harbour fees anywhere during our y Sailing Today system and up- and down-lights, trip. In Trikeri, if you use the jetty, it is suggested that you visit the taverna, which can also provide colleagues are and our meagre supplies of oranges, electricity and water for you. In high season there bored to tears strawberries and a few Alfa beers may be small fess to pay in the Sporades islands. with my constant look lost inside the gigantic fridge. updates on the Volos (39°20’.9N 022°56’.8E) is on z Christos advises boats to use o!cial harbours for Greek weather the northern edge of the Pagasitikos overnight stays, rather than small bays, in case the Mahead of my trip to the Magnesia Gulf (Kolpos in Greek), a circular wind changes. But one bay he does recommend for a region and the Sporades islands. bay about 16nM wide with a narrow night is Panormos (39°06’.6N 023°39’.3E), 3Nm from “Look!” I say, gleefully, “27 3nM entrance at the south. #e Loutraki, which has good shelter in all wind directions. degrees in April! One day of cloud mainland and islands of the region But put out a lot of chain and run a stern line ashore. but then wall-to-wall sunshine.” are mountainous and green, and the z Good spots for a lunch and swim break are Milia I make sure I pack plenty of sea is deep. #e prevailing winds are (39°06'6N 23°39’.1E) on Skopelos, and the three sunscreen, T-shirts and "ip-"ops. from the northeast, so the eastern bays next to Kastani (39° 07’.9N 023°38’.8E), which #essaloniki doesn’t disappoint. edge of the gulf is protected by the is one of the places where the musical Mamma It is hot when I arrive and, when mountain range. If winds come from Mia was shot. Most of the spots where the moviel I reach the town of Volos, from the southwest, Volos can su!er (a big was filmed are on the north coasts of Skiathos where Jason started his quest blow in May 2014 saw three boats and Skopelos, so no-go areas in prevailing winds. on the Argo to claim the golden sink) but in most conditions, it’s %ne. z Dasia island (39°07’.02N 023°39’.0E) near "eece, people are sunbathing on “Pagasitikos Gulf is like a Skopelos has a series of caves underneath. the narrow beach in Speedos. lake,” Christos tells me, and he’s Volos. Christos wants to show me THE WATER IS BEING WHIPPED Find the correct entrance and you can pass Smug, I tuck into an ice-cream. not wrong – we have a gentle this place because Sail Aegean will right through the island in your dinghy. Sail Aegean, a charter company beam-reach sail in "at seas along build a small marina here, a base UP INTO A SHORT, SHALLOW which has its main base here in the eastern rim of the gulf. for its "eet that will also welcome z Planes fly low on their approach to Skiathos harbour. Be careful not to anchor in their flight path. Volos, with 14 yachts for bareboat #e %rst stop is Kala Nera visitors. #e plan is for a small CHOP AND THE WIND KEEPS ON or skippered charter or "otilla, (39°17’.5N 023°08’.5E), a small complex of apartments, chandlers, RISING: IT PEAKS AT 57 KNOTS ranging from 33$ (10m) to 51$ %shing harbour about 8nM showers and a supermarket and (15.6m), lends me a new (2014 clockwise around the gulf from the hope is to move boats there for the summer 2017 season. 40, 42, 50, 54. It peaks at 57 knots. It’s only 6nM to Trikeri, our Another seven or eight miles “It is a good job we are this side stop for the night (39°09’.4N clockwise and we’re at Milina of the gulf,” Christos tells me, as we 023°05’.0E), and with our high Pagasitikos Gulf (39°09’N 023°12’E). #e wind surf, reefed (well, furled) at eight boat speeds we’re there in no Aegean is picking up and we’re glad to knots with a following sea. “If we time at all. We go alongside a tiny PAGASITIKOS GULF GREECE Sea Izmir tuck behind a narrow island. were on the western side of the concrete jetty, our stern a couple Athens D TURKEY o Peleponnese d #ere are a few private moorings gulf it would be bigger waves, like of feet from a brightly-coloured Thessaly e c a here and we try to grab one, but Aegean Sea. Here can be katabatic %shing boat behind us. Time for Mt. Pelion Northern Sporades n e Sea of Crete s the wind is up to 30 knots plus winds but the sea is usually calm.” a hot shower in one of the four Volos Kira Panayia e Magnesia CRETE and Rodi, with her high topsides Rodi, for a heavy whale of a yacht, heads then it’s into Isalos taverna and dinghy on deck, has a lot of handles the wind really well. I’ve for their famed cray%sh spaghetti. Pagasitik Kolpos Alonnisos (Gulf of Volpos) windage. We drop anchor instead. only been in winds that strong a I’ve been hearing about this Skiathos PalioTrikeri Peristeri When we up anchor a$er a lunch couple of times – once mid-Atlantic cray%sh spaghetti practically Milina Skiathos z TOP LEFT of Greek salad (of course) and peek and another time in a squall on since I stepped o! the bus from Dhiavlos Trikeri Peninsula Skopelos Emma tries raki Volpos Skopelos on Skopelos around the corner of the little island, the approach to Singapore that #essaloniki. Christos’s sister Stenon Trikeri Skantzoura it’s like we’ve jumped through a ripped the clew o! our jib – but this Anta, who also works for the Pigadhi z ABOVE gap in the space-time continuum. feels almost easy. No struggling to company, mentions it at least Skiathos to Skopelos Orei in 40 knots #e sunshine has gone, the water is bring the helm over and no really three times the night before we set nel an i Ch being whipped up into a very short bad heeling. In fact, I am having sail. And it doesn’t disappoint. Ore Evia z FACING PAGE Sunset in the but shallow chop and the wind more trouble trying not to be But %rst, the tsipouro and the

Pagasitikos gulf instrument keeps on rising: 35 knots, EMMA BAMFORD PHOTOS: blown over than the Jeanneau is. small dishes that come with it.

$% JULY 2015 sailingtoday.co.uk sailingtoday.co.uk JULY 2015 $! Greece PHOTOS: EMMA BAMFORD PHOTOS: Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 469 Rodi

LOA: 46ft (14.05m) Beam: 14ft 9in (4.49m) Draught: 7ft 4in (2.24m) Year built: 2014 Engine: 54hp Yanmar Sail area: 105.5 sq m Berths: 10 (4 cabins and two in saloon)

I usually have a healthy suspicion and another 10 at anchor. It’s not z ABOVE alongside several times just for the about local drinks, and I fear that quite Yarmouth-in-July busy, though, Skiathos town quay hell of it. It’s a novelty factor for tsipouro, distilled from grape skins, and there’d be room. #e village of z BELOW Christos, who is used to squeezing is going to be like ouzo. But, mixed Trikeri on Trikeri island (not to be Cray!sh spaghetti the stern of a yacht between the is the signature dish with ice and water, it’s actually very confused with two other Trikeris at Isalos taverna bows of two others, ra$ing out ster- smooth, warming and refreshing locally) is home to about 200 people to from the quay. In some places, (and hangover-free). It’s served in in the summer but only 20 now in like Loutraki on Skopelos island, aeroplane-miniature bottles, and April. #e two tavernas are open but the harbour authorities put out comes either with or without aniseed. the small supermarket is closed and "oating pontoons for the season but Order a tsipouro in this area and, shutters are drawn on all the houses when we visit these are in storage. a bit like aperitivi in Italy, small as we climb the hill to the top, where #e prices to be paid for all sharing plates come with. Two there’s a monastery for religious the space, peace and quiet are tsipouros cost about ¤7 (£5 or retreats. #at’s closed, too. With the weather (it swings between under), which is fantastic value only a couple of cars on this tiny no wind and 40kts); the cold (I with all that food thrown in. At island, it’s very quiet and I can hear haven’t brought nearly enough Isalos we share a delicious octopus the clanking of bells that grazing warm layers with me) and a stifado, cooked with lots of onions sheep wear around their necks. reduced choice of places to eat. and oil, skate, a Greek salad, small Everywhere we visit, over the #e next morning we do a U-turn fried %sh with garlic sauce and a next few days, is like this – empty around Trikeri island, pass through deep-fried, breaded cheese. And ice cream kiosks, boarded-up the narrow Volos Strait and head then comes the cray%sh spaghetti restaurants, empty tables and chairs gradually northeast towards Skiathos. – eight palm-sized cray%sh still in the streets. Christos tells me of A$er 7nM we stop at Tzasteni in their shells, tails digging into charter guests who have complained bay (39°08’.9N 023°07’.9E), which their bed of tomatoey pasta. about Skiathos before, saying they Christos tells me is his favourite. #ere is only one other yacht found it too noisy, busy and touristy. It’s a beautiful spot. A$er we leave, in our small harbour but in the Coming in April, long before ONLINE the wind is directly on the nose, Browse our archive of summer, Christos says, it’s a lot the season starts, means we have cruising coverage at: so it’s a long head-to-wind motor busier – maybe 10 boats on the jetty the places all to ourselves. We go sailingtoday.co.uk for 35nM towards the town of

sailingtoday.co.uk JULY 2015 $& Greece

Eating

As well as Tsipouro, octopus is a speciality of this region. It can be boiled or grilled, or slow-cooked with onions, tomatoes and fruit into a stifado (a casserole-type pan). The traditional way to prepare it is to slam SCHAEFER ALIA PHOTO: the octopus on to the stone floor repeatedly to tenderise the flesh. DO IT YOURSELF RESTAURANTS z There are frequent z Seats are also available on z Charter companies ask for Isalos taverna, Trikeri island scheduled flights from charter flights to Skiathos a skipper with a minimum Papades taverna/tsipouradiko, London or Manchester to during peak season, but may of RYA Day Skipper (or ICC) Volos, +30 24210 29360 Thessaloniki and Athens involve a change in Austria. and a co-skipper with at Aegean Wave hotel restaurant, with EasyJet, British Airways, z KTEL coaches run from least RYA Competent Crew. Skopelos, +30 24240 33700 Ryanair and Aegean Airways. Thessaloniki and Athens to z Sailing Holidays have aegeanwave.com Prices start at £30. Volos bus station and take yachts for charter in the Lagou Raxi hotel restaurant, Lafkos, z Monarch flies direct 2.5-4 hours. A one-way Ionian Sea, Saronic Gulf Pelion +30 24230 65144 lagouraxi.com to Volos in August and ticket from Thessaloniki to and Sporades islands Kritsa hotel restaurant, Portaria, Pelion early September. Volos with KTEL is €18 (£13). (sailingholidays.com). +30 2428 0 99121 hotel-kritsa.gr

Skiathos on Skiathos island where, z ABOVE thick in the air and I feel like I am but the wind and even a steaming A tranquil mooring once again, Christos is amazed to at Tzasteni bay in New Zealand – not Greece. shower doesn’t help all that much. see few yachts on the quayside. Coming out of Koukounaries bay, Again, in April the town is half asleep We stop, on the way, at Christos, full of helpful tips and local and the good restaurants aren’t open Koukounaries bay (39°08.9’N 023° sailing knowledge, advises me to yet. Only kebab shops seem to be in 21.3’E). It’s easily spotted from shore head out to sea quite a way before business but we manage to %nd a bar because the large brown Skiathos turning to port towards our harbour. that will fry some meat for us. I don’t Palace hotel glowers on the hillside. “#ere are many rocks and reefs care that it’s not cray%sh spaghetti, as #ere’s a wide beach. “Don’t come in here and they have no lights,” he long as it’s hot, and I ask to sit inside, July or August,” Christos says. “Can warns. I ensure I do not cut corners. out of the wind. In the morning, we you imagine people everywhere? We round the southern cape walk the town’s streets, which are Very popular for watersports.” I can of Skiathos and turn northeast, busy in a way – with business owners imagine it, but now we’re the only still motoring into head winds. To painting and renovating their shop yacht at anchor. A couple of French our right is a small island called fronts ready for opening in a month’s cruising boats are barbecuing in the Tsoungria (39°07’.2N 023°29’.7E). time. Everywhere I look someone has tiny harbour in the far right corner It’s a good anchorage for the day, a tub of white paint in their hand. behind a stone breakwater. We take with a nice beach and a kiosk on #e weather forecast says we’ll the dinghy into the harbour, under the beach for lunch. But Christos have force seven winds from the a bridge – and once again it’s like warns not to stay at night. “Why?” northwest. In Skiathos harbour in we’ve been transported, this time He grins. “Mosquitoes.” He also the morning it’s quiet and calm and into the middle of the countryside. advises avoiding the southern corner I doubt the weathermen. But then I A lake of brackish water bends of the bay as it’s “too shallow”. watch the smoke from a tanker back north and west and as we putter Skiathos town (39°09’.7N 45 degrees and when we leave the along I hear herons’ cracking 023°29’.8E) is a very popular resort, lee of the island we’re in 40 knots cries and watch swallows darting FREE narrow, steep alleyways crowded and big waves that have rolled all over the "at water’s surface. Small Download a free with tables and chairs and shops the way down the north Aegean. garden birds cling to tall plants and Mediterranean displaying their wares on the Winds get funnelled through the sailing guide sheep eye us suspiciously from the digimag at: "agstones. By the time we arrive, just Skopelos Strait when they have bank. #e smell of the pine trees is sailingtoday.co.uk a$er sunset, I am chilled to the bone some north in them and it’s an

sailingtoday.co.uk JULY 2015 $' VOLOS

Volos Cement Works Fl.R.3s Fl(2)10s 20 Fl.1.5s Ak Seskoulu Ormos Agros

0 2 2 Ormos Volou 0

Cement Works

FR Ak Angistri

SKIATHOS TOWN

NISOS SKIATHOS

5 Skiathos Town

Fl.3s N. Dhaskalo Ormos 5 Siferi 5 Ak Plakes

Mirmingia Rks

Ormos Skiathos 5 N. Marango EMMA BAMFORD

exhilarating ride over to Loutraki on she can be parked alongside on a z ABOVE PALIO TRIKERI Alongside in Skopelos’s west coast. Once again, quay she has all to herself. #e food Loutraki, Skopelos f Rodi has no problems and I %nd it here is excellent – octopus stifado e e R easy to steer in the waves, bearing so tender it could pass for chicken, Pardhalos Pt Cape Alexis away a little in the bigger gusts. tsatsiki, Cretan cheese bruschettas, Ag Goirgos Cove But when we motor into Loutraki very good home-made wine and raki. PALIO TRIKERI (39°09’.8N 023°36’.9E) and try to #e sun comes out, the wind drops Ag Sofia Cove Cape Pithos berth against the quay, she’s not so and %nally, a$er days of wearing all Pithos Cove biddable. Even with a bow thruster, of the clothes I brought with me, I Palio Trikeri Hbr her bow keeps being blown o! by the peel o! my jacket, my jumper, scarf Ag Ioannis winds shooting over the breakwater. and second jumper, until eventually Cape Pakhoula It takes three goes until we are close I’m just in shirt sleeves. As we’re the enough to jump onto the quayside only customers, the owners come and wrap the thick stern line twice to join us for a drink and a chat. LOUTRAKI around a makeshi$ bollard – a bin It’s a stunning spot and reminds Loutraki someone has %lled with concrete. me why the Greek islands are so Tavernas Sail Aegean is opening a second popular. A$er years of cruising really Shops base here this summer and Christos remote places like the Andaman Hotel Many thanks to tells me "oating pontoons will be islands, the thought of tussling with Sail Aegean and to lowered into the water from a smaller 20 "otilla boats for a single ra$ing Christos Liapis for 5 Tavernas his local knowledge. jetty. #e harbour can accommodate place in a small Greek harbour hadn’t Ro A one-week ck W 30-40 boats, including those on really appealed to me. But coming charter with Sail

al anchor in the southern part, clear here, out of season and getting the Aegean costs l €1,000 to €3,000 5 of the ferry’s turning circle. place all to myself, has re-ignited (£720-£2,170) We have a late lunch at Aegean my love for the country where I in low season to €1,800 to €5,500 Wave hotel, a 15-minute walk up the %rst learned to sail. I’ll de%nitely (£1,302-£3,976) Fl.R.3s l steep hill into Glossa village. #ere, come again – out of season, in May in high season, al ck W depending on Ro we sit on a terrace and look down or September. I’ll just make sure to boat length. Fl.G.3s on Rodi, Christos marvelling that pack my woolly hat next time. sailaegean.eu

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