The Gamine PARIS — the Valentino Woman Is Usually One of the Most Feminine Around

GARRARD’S SOHO GEM/8 SHOPPING FOR SPRING/5 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • March 15, 2004 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear The Gamine PARIS — The Valentino woman is usually one of the most feminine around. But this season, her favorite designer took a different tack, saying that his collection was inspired by Helmut Newton’s photography and Rainer Werner Fassbinder’s black-and-white films. The result: gender-bending clothes, often in that high-contrast palette. Here, Valentino’s gamine à la Colette: a delicate white lace blouse, short black jacket, tie pinned with a bold brooch and contrasting white pants. For more of the season’s girls-will-be-boys looks, see pages 6 and 7.

Aiming at the Bull’s-Eye: Target Move Signals New Strategy in Retail By Lisa Lockwood NEW YORK — Focus, not diversity. That seems to be the growing trend in retail, signaled by Target Corp.’s disclosure last week that it has hired Goldman Sachs to review “strategic alternatives” for both its department store divisions, Marshall Field’s and Mervyn’s. Federated Department Stores could emerge as the likely candidate to swoop up Marshall Field’s — giving Federated a strong foothold in the Midwest — but May Department Stores might give it a run for its money, said industry experts. Some believe Mervyn’s is more apt to be See Target’s, Page12 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 15, 2004 WWDMONDAY Movado Net Ticks Up 11.2% Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear By Ross Tucker Management is currently focused on returning Ebel to prof- FASHION NEW YORK — Strong sales itability, a move that will require Jackets and pants that suggest women in men’s clothing and walk-on-the- across all its brands propelled significant restructuring. Richard 6 wild-side rockabilly styles provide a contrast to fall’s flowery sweetness. Movado Group Inc. to double- Cote, executive vice president digit earnings growth for its and chief operating officer, said fourth quarter and year. during the call that losses at Ebel GENERAL For the three months ended were in excess of $15 million last Some see Target Corp.’s decision to sell its Marshall Field’s and Mervyn’s Jan. 31, the Paramus, N.J.-based year. As part of its restructuring 1 units as a sign that the era of retail conglomerates is coming to an end. timepiece manufacturer saw efforts, Movado has already elimi- earnings expand 11.2 percent to nated 70 employees from Ebel’s INNERWEAR: Luxury lingerie firm La Perla has opened its third boutique in $6.2 million, or 49 cents a share, For the year, operations in Switzerland, which 10 Manhattan, in the trendy Meatpacking District. compared with earnings of $5.5 Movado translates into a 40 percent re- ACCESSORIES: British crown jeweler Garrard is arriving in Manhattan this million, or 46 cents, in the same earnings rose duction in workforce. 8 Thursday, with a club-like and cosy jewelry salon at 133 Spring Street. period a year ago. Sales ticked to $22.9 million. Management expects that up 16.6 percent to $92.7 million. costs associated with Ebel will Strong sales across all its brands propelled Movado Group Inc. to double- Eugene Karpovich, senior ues to be well received,” said reduce earnings by 10 to 20 2 digit earnings growth for its fourth quarter and year ended Jan. 31. vice president and chief finan- Grinberg. “For example, the cents a share this year, but an- Maxwell Shoe Co.’s board rejected the unsolicited bid by Jones Apparel cial officer, said during the com- Movado diamond engagement ticipates the brand making posi- 11 Group to acquire it, calling the $20-per-share offer “financially inadequate.” pany conference call that all ring had an average selling price tive contributions in 2006. segments and brands had of $7,000.” For the year, earnings rose W.L. Ross & Co.’s bid to acquire Cone Mills was approved and new owner achieved year-over-year in- During the quarter, ribbon-cut- 13.9 percent to $22.9 million, or 11 Wilbur Ross is heading to North Carolina to give employees the lowdown. creases, with double-digit gains ting ceremonies were conducted $1.84 a share, from $20.1 mil- Fifteen sub-Saharan African textile and apparel associations and four in the Concord, Tommy and for seven boutiques, bringing the lion, or $1.65 a share, in the pre- 2 European groups have joined a coalition calling for an extension of quotas. Coach segments. total number of stores in opera- vious year. Sales for the year Efraim Grinberg, president tion to 17 nationwide. ramped up 10 percent to $330.2 EYE: Talking with Anne Heche about her new Broadway play, “Twentieth and chief executive officer, said The biggest task now facing million. Boutique stores en- 4 Century,” and the virtues of her Nu Bra...a San Francisco scoop. during the call that the compa- management is tackling the in- joyed a 20.1 percent comp-store ny’s Tommy Hilfiger brand alone tegration of Ebel, the Swiss lux- sales increase. Classified Advertisements ...... 18-19 experienced a 65 percent sales ury watchmaker the company Following the earnings re- To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is increase to over $18 million. acquired from LVMH Moët lease, the company announced [email protected], using the individual's name. The company’s boutique Hennessy Louis Vuitton for $47 that its board had declared a 2- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 store concept also continues to million in cash last December. for-1 stock split, citing the com- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. show strength, with jewelry of- Ebel, founded in 1911, is best pany’s generation of more than VOLUME 187, NO. 54. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional ferings accounting for an ever- known for its high-end, often be- $150 million in operating cash issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 larger portion of sales. For the jeweled, women’s watches that flow over the past five years. West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; quarter, comparable-store sales sell for $1,500 to $10,000. The The board also declared a 33.3 Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, increased 15.1 percent. brand is sold in more than 1,800 percent increase in pre-split Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- “Our focus on jewelry contin- doors worldwide. dividend to 8 cents a share. President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 1632, Station A, Windsor, ON N9A7C9. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is More Call for Quota Extension required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, By Kristi Ellis spokesman said last week it had sure governments to put the issue please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild received a letter from the coali- on the agenda at the WTO, whose magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully WASHINGTON — The coalition tion, but said the phaseout is ir- members would have to unani- screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. of apparel and textile associa- revocable, as reported. In addi- mously approve an extension of WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED tions calling for an extension of tion, the U.S. has notified the apparel and textile quotas. MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND quotas set to expire at the end WTO of its commitment to the “Textile and apparel groups TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED of the year just got a lot bigger. year-end phaseout schedule and around the world are uniting be- TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE Fifteen sub-Saharan African officials here have said they have hind this declaration because ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. textile and apparel associations no plans to deviate from that path. they have seen the data and and four European groups, con- To date, no WTO member know that, with the removal of cerned about the livelihoods of governments have spoken out quotas, China wins while the rest TUESDAY: Ross Stores reports on fourth-quarter and their industries in a post-quota on the idea. It is the govern- of us go out of business,” said full-year earnings. world, have joined U.S., Turkish ments, not local trade associa- Cass Johnson, acting president at and Mexican trade groups in a tions, that will decide whether the American Textile Manu- WEDNESDAY: The Labor Department releases the longshot effort to prevent China to reassess quota elimination. facturers Institute and a found- Consumer Price Index for February. from monopolizing global textile However, the U.S. and Turkish ing member of the new coalition, Goody’s Family Clothing reports on fourth-quarter and apparel trade. The groups groups that launched the cam- who is in Johannesburg lobbying and full-year earnings. also briefed trade and com- paign against quota elimination for support. merce ministers from Mauritius, and has China in its crosshairs is Two Italian textile and ap- THURSDAY: Nike Inc. reports on third-quarter sales Kenya and Tanzania last week. undeterred and continues to sign parel groups, one Belgian and and earnings. Quotas are set to expire on ap- groups around the world to the one Austrian association also Wet Seal, Charming Shoppes and Stein Mart report parel and textiles as part of a 10- newly named Istanbul Dec- signed the declaration Friday in on fourth-quarter and full-year earnings. year phaseout mandated by the laration for Fair Trade in Textiles Istanbul and the list continues World Trade Organization. A WTO & Clothing. Their goal is to pres- Continued on page 19 FRIDAY: Beauty International, Düsseldorf (through Sunday).

SATURDAY: Ontario Fashion Exhibitors Market, Toronto (through March 23). Kevin Boyce Resigns Unilever Post Mipel and Micam shows, Milan (through March 23). By Peter Born son is still in high school. Boyce announce it later. SUNDAY: IAADFS Duty Free Show of the Americas, said that over the holidays he had His successor, Balfour, has Orlando, Fla. (through March 25). NEW YORK — Nine months after thought about home being where held posts such as chairman of COMING THIS WEEK Professional Beauty 2004, London (through March taking the helm of Unilever the heart is and it isn’t New York. Unilever in Hungary, general 23). Cosmetics International as presi- manager of Unilever’s detergent Montreal International Fashion Mart (through dent and chief executive officer, business in Indonesia and other March 25). Kevin Boyce has resigned and BEAUTY BEAT marketing and general manage- been succeeded by Fergus Balfour, ment responsibilities. a 30-year Unilever veteran. “We’ve got three or four years Boyce’s short tenure at UCI Balfour, 51, is currently senior left,” Boyce said of his children’s has been action-packed. In vice president of human re- young adulthood. “I don’t want October, UCI’s three former divi- sources development in to lose that. I don’t want to look sions — Calvin Klein Cosmetics, Correction Unilever’s Corporate Human back and say, ‘I’m missing three Unilever Prestige and European Resources Group in London. years and I want them back.’” Designer Parfums — were com- Sarah Jessica Parker is currently in negotiations for a movie ver- Boyce, 48, said his decision Boyce, who has been commut- bined, and their former presi- sion of “Sex and the City,” while her co-stars on the series, was purely personal. He has re- ing back to Toronto, said he has dents — Hilary Dart, Laura Lee Kristin Davis, Cynthia Nixon and Kim Cattrall, have already turned to Toronto, where he pre- not been pressured by his family. Miller and Gabriele Pungerscheg signed deals for the film. Also, Parker is not working on a novel viously was based as president of Rather it is he who felt a lack. “I — were replaced by 20-year and has no plans to do so. The status of the planned film was in- Unilever Canada, so he could be want the time with them.” he Unilever veteran Laura correctly reported, as was a writing project for Parker, in the with his family and his two concluded. Klauberg, who is now senior vice March 12 Suzy column on page 4, according to Annick Muller of teenage children — Ashley and Boyce, who has been with president of marketing at UCI. I/D PR, a publicist for Parker. Muller noted that Parker “has no Christopher — as they grow up. Unilever for 19 years, said he Boyce had taken charge in June plans to write a book now or in the near future.” His daughter is in college and his has found another job and will Continued on page 11 HAMPTON www.stonemountainhandbags.com 4 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 15, 2004 ‘Twentieth Century’ Fox NEW YORK — Anne Heche should be hawking her new Broadway play, “Twentieth Century,” but on a recent afternoon in her dressing room at the American eye® Airlines Theatre, she can’t help but extol the virtues of Nu Bra, the self-adhesive strapless silicone bra she wears underneath her glamorous costumes. “I could be their spokesperson!” exclaims Heche, who’s already introduced the Nu Bra to the production’s costume designer, William Ivey Long, who plans to put them on his dancers in many a musical. She’s also autographed a pair for the store that sells them to her dresser. (“One part of my name on each boob. Where else am I going to sign it?” she asks.) “They say that you get 100 wears out of them — I don’t know if they mean evening-out-and-dancing 100 wears, or nice-quiet-dinner 100 wears. I’m sure they don’t mean 100 Broadway performances where you throw yourself all over the stage. I put these boobs through a lot of work,” she explains. Playing the narcissistic and overdramatic movie star Lily Garland (Carole Lombard played the role in the 1934 Howard Hawks movie), Heche whirls through any number of physical comedy steps. She does pratfalls, has stage fights and gets dragged across the set, which happens to be a moving train compartment. Heche plays opposite Alec Baldwin (her co-star in the 1996 movie “The Juror”), with Baldwin as a Broadway impresario — and Garland’s former lover — who desperately needs a hit play. As with any screwball comedy, hijinks ensue. I’m hoping that with my new place in “life, I can start making my rise in the glamorous halls of Hollywood happen starting now. No kidding. ” — Anne Heche Heche starred on Broadway two years ago as the unbalanced mathematician in the drama “Proof ” and she was looking for a chance to return to the stage. “I thought that after ‘Proof ’ was the success that it was, it would be really fun to come back with a comedy and say, ‘Ha! Now watch what I can do!’ ” But as the old saying in the theater world goes, “Dying is easy — it’s comedy that’s hard.” “In drama, as long as you’re doing it truthfully, you’re in,” says Heche, “but in comedy, you need the perspective to be able to make it funny. You have to ask yourself, ‘How do I turn this death into something funny?’ Rather than: ‘How do I just make this death seem real?’ ” Heche says she wouldn’t mind if a little glamour from her character rubbed off onto her everyday life. “I was never picked up off the street and turned into a starlet. I wanted to do it my way — I didn’t want to wear the fur coat because it looked pretty. If they told me to keep my hair blond, I dyed it black. But now, I think ‘Gee, this is gorgeous! You want to put diamonds on me? Bring it on!’ ” After an interesting couple of years in the public eye — the breakup with Ellen DeGeneres, the memoir “Call Me Crazy,” the interview with Barbara Walters in which she spoke about her other personality, Celestia, who had her own language — Heche feels as if she’s started Anne Heche in her to figure things out. She says she’s finally ready for a comeback — and Anne Heche in her dressing room at HECHE PORTRAIT BY DAVID TURNER; STAGE SHOT BY JOAN MARCUS SHOT BY TURNER; STAGE DAVID BY HECHE PORTRAIT the American Heche in “Twentieth Century.” Airlines Theatre.

the spotlight. “It was always easier for me to be a character actor because my leading lady time was taken up doing what I thought was most important, which was finding love and health in my life,” Heche explains. The actress married cameraman Coley Laffoon in 2001 and they have a two-year-old son, Homer. “Having the incredible foundation of my family and my love, I can take that time and dedicate it to a job that is bigger than being a character actor,” Heche says. But now she’d like to focus her attention on becoming a star. “It takes more time, energy, effort and commitment to be a leading lady. And I’m hoping that with my new place in life, I can start making my rise in the glamorous halls of Hollywood happen starting now. No kidding.” Heche will be back in two movies this fall — she has a role in the Nicole Kidman film “Birth” and the independent film “Sexual Life” — and her flashy star turn in “Twentieth Century” will surely bring more offers to the table. For now, she’s enjoying the thrill of being in a show that makes people laugh out loud, not to mention the amiable company of Baldwin, who, during the course of the interview, came by with two bottles of Cristal. (“These are for you and Coley,” he tells her. “Have a bubble bath.”) But there’s no champagne before a performance, even if playing Lily Garland involves an over-the-top giddiness. “I try to rock the house a bit with some music before I go onstage,” says Heche, who psychs herself up with the Black Eyed Peas and Nelly Furtado. “One night I prepped with Ludacris, and Alec came knocking on my door and said, ‘Excuse me, but is this the music we’re going to be listening to before we do this comedy?’” Heche recalls with a wily smile. “I said, ‘Is this a problem?’ And he said, ‘Whatever makes you happy.’” — Marshall Heyman

San Francisco socials are atwitter about this potential storm in a the very same day. Her guests include Georgette Mosbacher, Frank and Karen Caulfield, and teacup: Danielle Steel’s glamorous biannual Star Ball, which Urannia and Brunno Ristow. Naturally, many of the same guests are invited to both parties and are EYE SCOOP benefits the Nick Traina Foundation, has been set for May 1 at now in a quandary over which invitation to accept. When Steel heard about Sorokko’s party, one the Ritz-Carlton Hotel — as it has been for the past two years. And Steel’s power pack-pals like source reported that she phoned the former model and asked her to change the date of her Jackie Collins, Joanna and Sydney Poitier, Sharon Osbourne, Tipper Gore and Dame Elizabeth Taylor birthday party. But Sorokko told her that family members were flying in from around the globe are set to attend. But, since last fall, social newcomer Tatiana Sorokko has been planning a big and the date could not be changed. The result? A standoff that has left many of the city’s socials 50th birthday party for her art collector husband, Serge, at the Palace of the Legion of Honor on contemplating the age-old escape tactic: leaving town for the weekend. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 15, 2004 5 WWDWalkthrough: Shopping the Big Three

By Anamaria Wilson right size and coming up empty-handed lored jackets, trenches and pretty floral blouses, — for the salespeople said Narciso but they were very pricy. There was also a NEW YORK — After spending what may dresses are selling really well flouncy, girly Peter Som skirt in candied pink seem to some as an inordinate amount of due to their sleek and flattering silk that I would have snapped up if it hadn’t time deliberating over spring’s wardrobe silhouettes — the sales guy sug- been for the nearly $1,000 price tag. needs, I decided upon a few “must-haves,” gested I try Bergdorf Goodman, The Narciso dresses sat in their little like a handbag, colorful ballet flats, a flo- and I appreciated his candor. area and were pretty, but looked a bit muted ral skirt and perhaps a pretty chiffon Clearly striking out with on the hanger. I was taken with some beau- blouse. So I journeyed uptown on a recent clothes, my girlfriend and I tiful strapless gowns with Empire waists Saturday afternoon to meet a girlfriend and headed to the first floor to in jersey that were exquisite. A sales- see what was available at Barneys New York, check out handbags. woman ushered me into a dressing Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue. There were scores of room, and I thought each dress There’s something about shopping in the rar- Marc Jacobs’ bags, but I’m looked terrible until I emerged efied environs of high-end retail establishments that un- tired of the buckles; the suede from the horrible lighting and leashes a very particular brand of female neuroses. In an Balenciaga satchels are peered into a store mirror. effort to counter pretentious salespeople and snooty ap- roomy, but not quite what I Now, I thought for a sec- praisals from other shoppers, there’s a breed of women wanted, and I loved the ond that perhaps I was who tack on as many designer accoutrements as they can Prada “lady” purses, but being deceived by the handle in order to look either monied or stylish. They they were a bit too small. ubiquitous “skinny” mir- tend to travel in packs, talk really loudly and treat sales- The Barneys private label ror — you know what I’m people like the “help.” And these types were on fine dis- totes in brightly colored talking about — but I’m play at Barneys on this afternoon. Women of all ages and nubuck were nice, as well, going to trust my instincts physical types waltzed in with their salon-done hair and but my real goal was a roomy that it was true to size. The their weekend renditions of designer chic. It was like a re- spring status bag. So I made point is that you realize volving door of expensive American sportswear — my way to the Goyard (the how offensive bad lighting is Michael Kors would have been proud. French luggage company) bou- especially when you’re trying The designer shoe salon was tique in the corner. There, I on really expensive clothing. moderately crowded and pulled out a tote bag, but instead Why is it always so horrid? It women young and old as- of the traditional black, I zoned in was the same at Barneys and in- sessed their expensively clad on a blue one. Sheryl, the sales asso- Wish list: A Chloé bag. stead of feeling magnificent and feet in the mirrors as an offi- ciate, watched indulgently as my floating to the cash register be- cious woman barked at a friend and I discussed the finer points of the smaller cause your fantastic find fits you so beautifully, you salesgirl for Manolos in her tote versus the larger one. Goyard also offers to paint end up morosely handing garments back to the weary size. Despite the vast array stripes on the bags (on one side) for an additional $75. salesperson and skulking home to plan out a week’s of python Pradas, patent It’s a nice option because it gives the bag a personal worth of salad meals. leather Rochas and teeter- touch (you can have your initials done, as well) and Saks Fifth Avenue was next. The first floor was ing Manolos, I settled on a more richness. We deliberated for a time because, at bustling; there seemed to be one cosmetics salesperson beautiful pair of apple $550, it was cheaper than the rest of the designer bags for each person shopping. It was bright and loud and a green Alexandra Neel san- on the floor, particularly in that size, but neither of bit frenetic. The in-store boutiques, which line the floor us could pull the trigger on around its perimeter, are pretty great because it’s easy a purchase. to see all of the handbags displayed on the walls, al- Off to Bergdorf ’s. On though nothing really caught my eye. the first floor were some Upstairs, however, the designer floors were deserted nice, solid handbags from of both customers and salespeople. The designer assort- Nancy Gonzalez, Fendi and ment was vast — Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Alexander Jimmy Choo. But the stand- McQueen. There weren’t enough Chloé pieces in, al- out, for me, was a green though that, perhaps, could be because the store hadn’t canvas Chloé tote encrusted received its entire spring shipment. There were some with faux jewels. It’s clearly beautiful black lace Rochas pieces that were divine, but a one-season bag, though, again, well upward of $1,200, and a pretty peach and costs $1,086. Balenciaga dress. The shoe salon was crowded and Next stop, the shoe bou- brightly lit, which made me appreciate the more homey, tique on two, which was the yet salon-like feel of the ones at Barneys and perfect setting for some high Bergdorf ’s. However, a sighting of Aretha Franklin with comedy. It was swarming with a generous entourage was worth the expedition alone. women who had been nipped At this point, I was just getting confused, hungry and tucked to high heaven with and frustrated that everything save accessories was so shellacked coifs, artfully made- expensive. I remember buying both a Marc Jacobs pen- up faces and enhanced figures cil skirt and an Yves Saint Laurent skirt for $500 each clothed in slim pants and form- last spring. But the strong euro is spiking designer fitting knit tops (what’s the point prices, and it makes for a woeful shopping experience of getting the work done if no one this season. is going to see the fruits of their After sleeping on it, the two pieces that stuck in my surgery?). There was one twosome mind were the green Alexandra Neel sandals and the who literally sat on one of the Goyard bag. I went back to Barneys and picked up the couches talking while the salesmen scurried bag and the shoes. The salesgirl Jennifer was at lunch, to make sense of the pile of discarded high-heels that but she had kindly held the shoes an extra day, even Purchases: A Goyard tote and remained at their feet. But they knew their shoes. One though I told her I’d be back the previous afternoon. As Alexandra Neel sandals. of them had uncovered a great pair of bone-colored for the bag, I bought it, but rest assured, I’ll be back to Alexandra Neel stilettos with red stitching that I get it painted with stripes and hadn’t seen on the display. Bergdorf’s has an ex- my initials. dals with feathers across the toe and a pair of silver tensive array of Manolos, Chanel and Gucci, Since I’ve made these snakeskin Marc Jacobs strappy heels. Without having to enough to satisfy everyone from high-society matrons purchases, I carted the hail anyone, a saleswoman by the name of Jennifer to wide-eyed ingenues. But it also carries edgier good- Goyard bag with me on a obligingly requested my shoe size. ies from the likes of Brian Atwood and Gina. Wish list: Jimmy plane to Tokyo and it man- The green heels turned out to be striking and pretty on The funny thing is, after sifting through all selections Choo heels. aged to fit an iBook, five the foot, while the Marc Jacobs were glamorous and high from Marc Jacobs, Stella McCartney (not in leather, of magazines, two books, a with a thicker heel. But the uniqueness of the green shoes course) and Jimmy Choo, the Manolos were downright huge bottle of Evian and won me over, even at $510, and the lovely Jennifer reasonable compared with everyone else’s prices. other sundries like a promptly put them on hold while I continued to shop. On to ready-to-wear. Everything in the Chanel bou- champion. There is also a Rifling through racks and racks of ready-to-wear from tique was gorgeous, but not for my purse strings. little wallet-like bag at- Balenciaga (of which Barneys has a wide selection), Elsewhere, the Gucci shop-in-shop looked good, thanks tached to the tote that has Prada, Rochas, Narciso Rodriguez and Lanvin, there in part to the extensive handbag offerings. The ones with doubled as an evening clutch for were many beautiful things — yummy Balenciaga knits, the oversized bits are to die for, albeit a touch small for nights out. While the Alexandra everything in the Prada in-store boutique, slim Narciso everyday use. Skipping through Calvin, Donna, Ralph, Neel sandals are gorgeous, the heel sheath dresses, seamed Proenza Schouler bustier tops. YSL, we were lured over to Chloé. There straps keep slipping off when I walk. But everything was a fortune. Literally. I couldn’t find a was one green silk chiffon top left, Several days after my first foray, substantial piece of clothing that wasn’t a T-shirt or a but sadly, not in my size. None of I went back to Bergdorf ’s. I ob- tank top for under $700. And most everything was well the other Chloé looks I’d seen sessed over the Narciso dress, a pair above that price point. I tried on a beautiful Narciso and loved were there, of Jimmy Choo platform sandals and dress, but couldn’t quite stomach the $1,100-plus price though, like the high-waist- the Chloé bag once more. If money tag. The salespeople were nice in the designer sections, ed jeans or the striped were no object, I would snap up all although they significantly perk up once you actually cheesecloth shirts. The three — but the hefty prices ruled take an item off the racks to try on. They are interested Tuleh section housed them out for now. So I’ll stick with my shrunken in making a customer happy, however, even if it means some really beautiful Henleys and cardigans from H&M — and hope the sending them to another store. After searching for the pieces, like finely tai- dollar improves for fall. 6 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 15, 2004

Christian Dior Lagerfeld Gallery

Boy Meets Girl It has turned out to be a very girly fall season, but fashion is all about contrasts, and this time, the opposing elements are androgynous, boy-meets-girl looks. From relatively straightforward jackets and pants that suggest women in men’s clothing to walk-on-the-wild-side rockabilly styles, they provide a welcome antidote to all the flower- sprigged sweetness around. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 15, 2004 7

Dolce & Gabbana Helmut Lang Viktor & Rolf PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI AND MAURICIO MIRANDA GIANNONI AND MAURICIO GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY 8 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 15, 2004

Accessories Report SALON PHOTOS DAVID BY TURNER

Here: Garrard’s SoHo salon has a clubby feel; inset: Jade Jagger. Garrard’s New SoHo Gem By Marc Karimzadeh heavy silk and velvet curtains. The sitting room resembles a contemporary gentleman’s club with an L-shaped damask-covered sofa NEW YORK — Garrard is arriving in Manhattan this Thursday — but unlike its big sibling Asprey, and two tall herringbone library chairs, while the dining room has a which landed with a mammoth thud on Fifth Avenue last December, the venerable British crown white lacquered table adorned with Garrard silverware, from a cork bottle stopper, priced at $265, jeweler is avoiding any pomp and circumstance. and silver hip flasks for $795, to a candleholder for $3,355. Instead, Garrard is taking a more subtle route with a modern, clubby and cosy jewelry salon at The jewelry sells from $100 for a silver charm bracelet to $102,500 for a platinum Lotus neck- 133 Spring Street. That’s just how Garrard creative director Jade Jagger wanted it. lace with eternal- and brilliant-cut diamonds, though the lion’s share of jewelry is available between “Jewelry is associated with gift-giving or celebrating one’s life,” Jagger said in a phone interview $1,000 and $3,000. from London. “I wanted to embrace that moment with a more gentle, respectful environment, so “The idea is to make it a little bit more like a home,” said Jagger of the salon. “It’s a modern that somebody could have fun while we are still able to offer people the one-on-one attention as environment but a forgiving one. I love combinations of slightly opposing concepts like classic and we’re introducing the brand to New York.” modern next to each other, or rock ’n’ roll and avant-garde...just incorporating the different ingredi- By quietly opening a downtown salon, the A&G Group division is departing from its initial strategy ents to try and create a new recipe.” that kicked off with a 9,000-square-foot London flagship on Albermarle Street and a big party at the Scattered throughout the salon are pod-like stingray-covered cases that open on hydraulic mechanisms Tower of London in 2002. Some critics say the London store is too large and cold, so it makes sense for to display the jewelry, and rectangular metal cases that showcase the baubles against the backdrop of a Garrard executives to test a softer approach for New York. painted Union Jack flag. To drive home Garrard’s Britishness, “When we decided to demerge the brands, it was only the dining room features a silver wall displaying the jeweler’s fitting that Garrard had a real home and that was London,” three royal warrants, while a large black and white photo of a said Robert Donofrio, president of Garrard USA. “However, young Queen Elizabeth II graces the drawing room. But don’t the way that we plan to grow this brand, we don’t necessar- think that Garrard requires a stiff upper lip — Jagger likes to ily need to have such large flagships to communicate the see the jewelry on a mix of clients. “I love to see the beautiful message. That’s the reason why we are choosing a path older ladies wearing the jewelry, the ladies that really can take that’s perhaps a little bit more old-fashioned. We are going these pieces and twist them again,” she said. “And I love to to grow this brand more by word of mouth. see the terribly young, like Paris Hilton. And in between, “We feel we can control it better and we can introduce there’s the rock stars, I guess. In Russia, I’d love to see the people to it in a private atmosphere. We are not trying to 21-year-olds with more jewelry than their grandmothers.” sell specifically, as much as we are trying to inform, and Potential customers don’t need to set up an appoint- the selling will take place through the experience.” ment to see the collection. That said, few things point to The new salon, which has about 1,500 square feet of the store’s existence other than the doorbell. “We are selling space, is Garrard’s U.S. launch pad. The 269-year- The dining room showcases Garrard’s silverware; a pod-like display case. making attempts to get a flag hung outside but that has old English brand may be known to jewelry cognoscenti, to go through the landmark commission,” Donofrio said. but Garrard never had a stand-alone presence here and only came to New York when it was merged To help build brand awareness, Garrard is initially planning to build a wholesale distribution with Asprey in 1998 under previous owner Prince Jefri Bolkiah, the younger brother of the Sultan of network of 40 to 50 sales points, in upscale department and specialty stores and fine jewelry Brunei. When Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou took over Asprey & Garrard in 2000, they demerged the stores. The line is being launched with two main-floor cases at Bergdorf Goodman here next week. two, with plans to build each into lifestyle brands with global stores starting in London and New York. Donofrio declined to give sales information or projections for the salon, but said that before “It’s exceptionally important for Garrard to be in New York,” Jagger said. “I grew up [in New Asprey and Garrard were demerged, Garrard had a sales volume of about $40 million in London. York] and a lot of my mentors are [in New York], from my family to the artists that I know and love, Now a much smaller company, industry sources estimate Garrard's latest annual sales revenue at like [Ross] Bleckner and [Francesco] Clemente, and the designers that I was brought up with. $5.4 million, or 3 million pounds at current exchange. Perhaps hanging out in the Factory did have some effect on my ultimate creative product.” Donofrio added that the strategic plan calls for a Manhattan flagship by 2006. “It will not be a Fifth Perhaps not entirely unlike Warhol’s legendary Factory, Jagger made sure that Garrard’s Avenue flagship like Asprey, but probably something a little more subtle,” Donofrio said. “We have been SoHo salon had the ingredients to become a place for New Yorkers from the music, fashion and looking at Madison Avenue, where we can present the brand in its full array.” art worlds to meet and chill. Jagger noted: “Obviously, I hope that soon we will open a big flagship, but this was a more subtle She recruited British architect Tom Bartlett, who also designed the London flagship and her way of entering in it…the opposite of Asprey. I think this is a place I feel I can introduce people to Ibiza, Spain, home, to create the salon, which comprises a sitting and a dining room separated by how I see things in a very personal way.” WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 15, 2004 9

Legwear Report

from the older consumer, but still have meaning from a fashion standpoint,” Clancy said. Bonnie Doon Barks Again Produced in fabrics such as merino wool and nylon mi- NEW YORK — When Bonnie Doon bought back its license It’s that connection, as well as an appeal to a new, crofiber, the line will be separat- from Trimfit, in an effort to breathe new life into the leg- younger customer, that the New York-based brand is ed into two deliveries for fall. wear brand, its executives found they weren’t familiar with banking on as it relaunches the line for fall. The first, “inspired by country the product or its 85-year history. So, on eBay they went. Bonnie Doon began as a sock line in 1919 and is antique shops,” is heavy on flo- As they had hoped, there they found dozens of ven- among the top 10 recognizable names in legwear, ac- ral patterns, with colors like dors selling Bonnie Doon socks and tights. cording to the WWD 100 published in June 2003. pink, mint green and light blue “It’s funny because the description would say, ‘Found It enjoyed a heyday during the Fifties and Sixties, most prominent. The second de- in the back stockroom of a kids’ shoe store that went out likely the same era from which the eBay shoppers knew The Scottie livery is based on colors tradi- of business,’ ” said vice president of sales Jodi Clancy. it. But these days, Bonnie Doon is courting teens who dog is the tionally seen in fall apparel, like “And believe it or not, other people out there were bid- weren’t alive back then. brand’s charcoal, mulberry and teal. In

PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY mascot. ding on this stuff.” Now the company is updating its most popular styles a nod to the brand’s Scottish The unenthusiastic listings were not necessarily from the past for the fashion-forward crowd. In addition roots, every delivery will include at least one plaid. cause for joy, but the active bidding did bring a sigh of to resurrecting favorites like Dreamy, an acrylic crew Bonnie Doon is targeted at department stores like relief to Bonnie Doon executives. “It tells you there is a sock and knee-high that sold well in the Eighties, the fall Lord & Taylor and Marshall Field’s. The company de- connection to the consumer in some way, shape or collection, which wholesales from $5 to $18, includes clined to disclose sales projections. form,” Clancy said. new styles “that we feel have good brand recognition — Emily Holt

The loft-like showroom.

JBT Legwear’s New Steps NEW YORK — JBT Legwear LLC, which holds licenses for Ellen Tracy and Givenchy hosiery, is involved in a number of new projects. The company, in a partnership with Lycra, is launching an interactive in-store concept to help pair legwear customers with the specific product for which they’re shopping. JBT Legwear president Barry Tartakin said the concept was based on the challenges he found in legwear departments — “no people around to help the customers and the customers not being able to find what they want.” Staffed by trained JBT employees, the in-store displays will feature four to five freestanding computer kiosks. After entering criteria such as height, weight and style preference into the computer program, the customer is offered a selection of styles from JBT’s brands that match her needs. If the particular style is not on the floor, the customer will be able to buy it online at the kiosk. Tartakin noted that including other legwear brands in the project is an option down the road. “Ultimately we see this as a concept the whole industry could benefit from,” he said. The company plans to introduce the concept into 10 department store doors this season, with the first being planned for August. The legwear firm has also introduced its new collection of seamless legwear and bodywear called Reve Avoix. The selection has a small lace-up detail in yellow or red ribbon at the waist or hem. Tartakin said sales for the brand will be focused on specialty stores rather than larger department stores. Since JBT acquired Pennaco Hosiery from Danskin Inc. in October, Tartakin has been anxious to move the firm into its new showroom in the penthouse at 1384 Broadway here. The laid-back studio space opened with the start of this month’s legwear market. — E.H. PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY 10 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 15, 2004

Innerwear Report LaPerla Opens Third N.Y. Store By Karyn Monget black ceiling and walls and black and aubergine carpet- ing, the entrance is divided by free-form undulating NEW YORK — La Perla has opened its third boutique walls in aubergine that have the laminated high-gloss here, in the trendy Meatpacking District. finish of a sports car. Sandwiched between the Stella McCartney and A shopper is led through a small maze that features La Alexander McQueen boutiques at 425 West 14th Street, Perla Black Label lingerie and La Perla ready-to-wear on the 2,000-square-foot shop was developed as a “testing minimalistic mannequins and hanging wall displays. ground” to garner a new, younger generation of La Perla Overhead are Baroque-looking Italian crystal chandeliers. customers, said Gianluca Flore, president and chief exec- The heart of the boutique looks like a futuristic lounge with utive officer of La Perla USA. a curved sofa and walls ren- Retail sales the first full La Perla will be celebrating dered in pink-red Ultrasuede, a year are projected at $500,000, couple of vertical floor-to-ceil- he said. “its 50th anniversary this year ing mirrors and three LCD flat- “La Perla will be celebrat- screen TVs showing footage of ing its 50th anniversary this and this store represents a the La Perla spring-summer rtw year and this store represents show in Milan. a different concept based on different concept based on The beat of lounge music La Perla Black Label,” Flore mixed at the Bologna, Italy-based said. “We want to get closer to La Perla Black Label. headquarters of the growing changes and $250 million par- lifestyles of American women ” ent Gruppo La and what they think. What will — Gianluca Flore Perla was created they want in the next 10 to 20 years? That’s the biggest to enhance the shopping experience and give challenge for a luxury company today.” consumers a laid-back feeling, said Flore. Apparently, a hip location and ambience has a lot to La Perla, the primary lingerie brand, is do with La Perla’s new audience. The new shop in ensconced at the back of the store along with PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY Chelsea, built by Enfield, Conn.-based architectural swimwear. The target consumer base for the firm Permasteelisa and designed by Matteo Fregonese, La Perla brand, which retails for $250 to Black Label, which sells for $150 to $250, has an ultramodern club-like quality. Cocooned in matte $350, is in the 33 to 55 age range. La Perla is aimed at 20- to 30-year-olds. The rtw is priced from $500 to $5,000. Flore said, “La Perla Black Label appeals to two different customers: a customer who buys La Perla on a regular basis and wants something different, and a younger generation who will give Gianluca Flore us the feedback we need.” Regarding La Perla USA’s overall business, which includes its wholesale and retail divisions with eight boutiques, Flore said, “We did $23 million in 2003. It was one of the worst sea- sons at the beginning of last year, but we have been having steady increases since July, and had a 30 percent increase this January and February against a year ago.” Flore attributed the increases to a better economy, an appetite for lingerie as a fashion item and a growing awareness of the La Perla name in the U.S. He noted that the first La Perla boutique opened in February in Toronto. He added that the company will move its offices and showrooms in July to the former Moschino building at 803 Madison Avenue from 730 Fifth Avenue. The La Perla flagship will be housed on 3,000 square feet of the five-floor building and will be relocated from 777 Madison Avenue to the new site in September. A 50th anniversary celebration will be staged at the new flagship at which Alberto Masotti, owner, chairman and chief executive officer of La Perla, and his daughter, Anna, are expected to attend. Anna Masotti is the company’s fashion coordinator. The center of La Perla's new shop is rendered in red-pink Ultrasuede; The company’s other New York unit opened in top right: laminated aubergine walls act as room dividers. November 2002 at 93 Greene Street in SoHo. Flore said the store met its first-year sales projection of $1.5 million.

PARTY MODE: The recent holiday market was highlighted by several industry festivities, notably the annual Femmy INTIMATE NOTES Awards cocktail and dinner gala at the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel in New York that drew more than 800 retailers and industry executives. Bill Dillard III, vice president of Dillard’s Inc., introduced Lifetime Achievement Award PHOTOS BY KYLE ERICKSEN KYLE PHOTOS BY recipient Norene Maier, corporate director of Dillard’s body fashion specialists, saying, “In the world of intimate apparel you have average-figure and full-figure bras. Norene has the presence of a triple-D bra, larger than life.” Grace Maier began her retail career 42 years ago at The Broadway as a saleswoman at the candy Nichols counter. During her the first week of employment, she attracted management’s attention when and she refused to remove the black jelly beans from a customer’s 1-pound assortment; the customer Charles Sharen Paul turned out to be the store manager. Komar Turney Charron She quickly moved from jelly beans to bras, honing her bra-fitting skills at several retailers, including Carter Hawley Hale and Diamond’s Department Stores, which was acquired by Dillard’s in 1985. She was instrumental in developing Dillard’s Fit Program and its proprietary bra brand Cabernet. Also receiving a Lifetime Achievement Award was Jeanne Martini, former vice president of design for Bali, a division of Sara Lee. Martini, whose design career includes Vassarette and Gossard, joined Bali in 1973, retired in 2003, and is currently a Bali consultant. Charles L. Nesbit Jr., former president and chief executive officer of Sara Lee Intimate Apparel, introduced Martini as “one of the most prolific designers and leaders of our industry.” There were three recipients of the Femmy Award: Lenny Edelson, president of Westchester Lace Inc., who was introduced by Norma Reinhardt, former vice president of merchandising at Westchester, and two companies, family-owned Charles Komar & Sons and Victoria’s Secret. Paul Charron, president and ceo of Liz Claiborne Inc., presented Charles Komar, ceo of the Komar firm, his award and noted, “He never gets ruffled or loses his composure.” Grace Nichols, ceo of Victoria’s Secret Stores, and Sharen Turney, ceo of Victoria’s Secret Jeanne Lenny Charles Direct, accepted the award for the store from Janet J. Peters, chief operating officer of H. Martini Edelson Norene Maier L. Nesbit Jr. Janet J. Peters Warshow & Sons Inc. The Victoria’s Secret brand generated total sales of $3.8 billion in 2003. WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 15, 2004 11 Ross Gets Cone Mills, Balfour Succeeding Boyce at Unilever Continued from page 2 Headed to Greensboro following a shakeup the month Fergus Kevin before, in which longtime Calvin Balfour Boyce By Scott Malone 11 petition. Klein veteran Paulanne Mancuso He plans to manage Cone left the company. NEW YORK — Wednesday will be and Burlington jointly, though it Then a month ago, UCI dis- a big deal for the roughly 3,000 remains unclear whether a for- closed that it had signed a deal employees of Cone Mills Corp. mal merger will be put through. with actress Scarlett Johansson That’s the day the company’s Ross noted that as an owner of a to serve as the new spokes- new owner, Wilbur L. Ross, plans competing company, he’d been woman for its Calvin Klein to visit headquarters to tell them limited in the amount of access Cosmetics brand. The actress his plans for the Greensboro, he had to Cone information dur- will star in a to-be-shot advertis- N.C., company’s future. ing the bidding. ing campaign for an upcoming Judge Mary F. Walrath of the Ross said he was “very happy fragrance, which is slated for a U.S. Bankruptcy Court in the bankruptcy process is finally fall 2004 launch. She follows in Wilmington, Del., on Friday ap- come to and end for the busi- the footsteps of a series of rising proved Ross’ bid to acquire the ness. This kind of clears the air stars who had been featured in ners anticipate the new salon to company in a $90 million deal and lets us get going.” Klein advertising — Brooke Salon AKS’ New Digs hit $8 million to $9 million with- that includes $46 million in cash Cone chairman and chief ex- Shields, Kate Moss, Andie NEW YORK — The Elizabeth in five years. and the assumption of $44 mil- ecutive officer John Bakane did MacDowell, Macy Gray and Arden building, home of one of AKS serves some 900 clients lion in debt. not respond to calls for comment. Christy Turlington, among them. the most storied salons in New a week in its current location, “We’ll be working pretty hard At Burlington, also based in The Johansson deal also came at Yo rk City, will soon have a new said Pinon, who added initial ex- over the weekend so that on Greensboro, Ross turned over a time when rumors had been occupant. Salon AKS has signed pectations for Fifth Avenue are Wednesday we’ll be able to make the entire management team flying about a possible sale of a deal to take over the 5,000- 400 to 500 clients weekly. The clear to the staff what the new upon buying the company. He Unilever’s beauty holdings — square-foot Fifth Avenue salon, company currently employs a structure will be of the busi- named Joseph Gorga president particularly those of Calvin most recently occupied by staff of 80 and plans on starting ness,” Ross said on Friday in a and ceo, replacing chairman and Klein Cosmetics. The signing of Oribe. Oribe reportedly had a with a team of 50 to 60 in the phone interview. “With the liti- ceo George Henderson and a Johansson as the new face of falling out with his business new digs. Pinon stressed, howev- gation that had gone on, it was half-dozen other top managers. Calvin Klein Cosmetics seemed partner and subsequently was er, that he has no plans to poach difficult to do that beforehand.” Cone filed for bankruptcy on to lend strength to UCI’s repeat- forced to vacate the historic stylists from competing salons. Dissident Cone investors and Sept. 24, showing $318.3 million ed insistence recently that it space. Now, Salon AKS, which Instead, the additional space bondholders had objected to in assets and $225.8 million in plans to hold onto the Calvin made waves of its own when its will allow AKS to accommodate W.L. Ross & Co.’s offer for the debts. The filing came after the Klein Cosmetics brand, at least three owners — Alain Pinon, its growing cadre of developing company, and according to company missed a $4.1 million in the short term. In fact, soon Susanna Romano and Kao Hui stylists and colorists, he said. sources, prolonged the bankrupt- interest payment. after her arrival at UCI, — defected from Frédéric Haircuts range in price from $90 cy process by several months Cone officials had been deal- Klauberg put together a team de- Fekkai seven years ago, is set to to $200; hair color services from while trying to hold out for a ing closely with Ross for more voted to identifying new opportu- move in next September. $100 to $300. The salon also of- higher bidder. Last month they than a year. In early 2003, the nities for the Calvin Klein AKS will maintain its origi- fers body services such as wax- failed to raise a $35 million bond company proposed issuing $27 Cosmetics brand, as well as nal location at 694 Madison ing and manicures, and will cre- the court had ruled had to be million in debt that would have UCI’s other beauty holdings. Avenue, but will make the new ate a luxury manicure-pedicure posted to further delay the sale. been convertible to Cone “We are making a significant salon its flagship. Located on station in the new locale. Ross, whose firm also owns shares. The money was to fund investment in Calvin Klein the corner of Fifth Avenue and Architect Chris Kofitsas has Burlington Industries Inc., made expansion of Cone’s Mexican Cosmetics, and we remain ex- 54th Street, the 10th-floor space been enlisted to transform the his bid for the company in operations. A dissident in- tremely committed to the is one of the most visible in space from its elaborate rococo September, after which Cone’s vestors group succeeded in brand,” Klauberg was quoted on Manhattan. Currently, AKS gen- incarnation into a more modern board voted to file the Chapter killing the proposal. Feb. 17. in response to ques- erates annual revenue of $6.5 setting. “It was beautifully tions about the rumors. “In ad- million. Pinon said he expects done,” said Pinon, “but that’s dition to the new fragrance and the two salons to reach com- not really our market. Our focus our signing of Scarlett to be its bined first-year sales of $7.5 mil- is to create a home-like, wel- face, we’ve got a number of lion, with the Fifth Avenue coming atmosphere, but with a Maxwell Nixes Jones Proposal other things in the works for space accounting for about $4 stylish edge.” this brand.” million. Going forward, the part- — Jenny B. Fine By Vicki M. Young the benefit of our stockholders.” It a March 12 letter to Peter NEW YORK — Maxwell Shoe Boneparth, Jones’ ceo, Cocozza Co.’s board on Friday unani- wrote: “Jones’ proposal signifi- mously rejected the unsolicited cantly undervalues our premier Blue Martini Plans Package Upgrade proposal by Jones Apparel franchise in the footwear industry, Group to acquire the company, does not reflect the true value of calling the $20-per-share cash our unique market position and NEW YORK — Blue Martini on the customers’ past shopping cludes three different pro- offer “financially inadequate.” business prospects and is not con- Software Inc. is expected to an- habits and could involve any- grams: marketing, selling and Officials at Jones could not sistent with the board’s objective nounce today the availability of thing from an advance of a trunk commerce. Blue Martini be reached for comment. of enhancing stockholder value.” a version 6 for its sales opti- show date coming up or a 10 per- Marketing tracks orders, loyalty Mark Cocozza, Maxwell’s He went on to highlight how mization package. cent off promotion in a specified point thresholds and Web site chairman and chief executive of- 2003 was a “banner year” for the The existing package is al- department just for the day the visits. The selling portion of the ficer, said in a statement, “For 17 company and that backlog reached ready in use by Bloomingdale’s customer is in the store.” package helps sales associates consecutive quarters, we have ei- an all-time high, “reflecting the at two of its stores, with a roll- In another example, a cus- determine which customers to ther met, or beat, expectations, growth in each of our brands and out to its other store locations tomer who buys an outfit using contact regarding certain pro- and we expect 2004 to be another private label offerings. This per- by the end of May. Customers the Bloomingdale’s charge motions, as well as coordinate year of industry-leading perform- formance validates our branded who are proprietary charge card may find out at the regis- special store transfers and store ance. Our portfolio of recognized footwear strategy and demon- card holders can take their ter that he or she is also eligi- pickups of merchandise. brands covers a wide variety of strates our solid operating skills.” cards for scanning at a point-of- ble for a special one-time dis- Commerce is focused on Web footwear categories, distribution Cocozza closed with a state- sale device to learn of targeted count on a pair of shoes bought sales, helping with integrated e- channels and price points, mak- ment of the firm’s confidence in promotions at the store. the same day. marketing to enable firms, for ing Maxwell Shoe Co. a destina- its “ability to fully realize the Al Falcione, senior product “The goal is to get the cus- example, to “publish” promotion resource for retailers. We value of Maxwell Shoe Co.,” not- marketing manager for Blue tomer back into the store and go tions on the site in one country have an exciting future and are ing both the outstanding em- Martini, said, “This is a personal- to another department and spend and then do the same thing a committed to building upon our ployee base and seasoned man- ized marketing message from the more money,” Falcione said. week later in another country. strengths to grow the company for agement team. store. The promotions are based The updated software in- — V.M.Y.

Burger King in airport terminals. He was named ceo of Autogrill off Rue Saint-Honoré, will include a small bar, a major beauty in February of last year. department and makeup artists who will work into the evening, Fashion Scoops This speculation emerges as the Benetton family mull the proving it’s never too late for a makeover. future of their controlling stake in Autogrill. The family’s GUCCI WATCH: A new contender to replace Domenico De Sole at investment company, Edizione Holding, said it is considering CINEMA SCOPE: Fashion designers have taken enough inspiration Gucci has emerged, according to sources. Those watching to selling its 56.7 percent stake in roadside restaurant grill chain from the silver screen, so now it’s time to give back. As part of a see whom majority owner Pinault-Printemps-Redoute will Autogrill or performing some other type of financial transaction, benefit for the American Film Institute, Michael Kors and Marc choose as the Gucci’s next chief executive have named such as a convertible bond issue, to make good on its Jacobs are planning to present some of their favorite films, along Ginmario Tondato Da Ruos, ceo of the Benetton family’s investment. Edizione Holding said it will give Goldman Sachs a with editors from Vogue, during a series of screenings at Soho restaurant group, as being in the running. Through a Benetton mandate to evaluate market conditions and consider potential House with Indyssey Entertainment. The new series, Grand spokesman, Tondato declined to comment on the speculation. buyers for its stake in Autogrill, a publicly traded company with Classics: Films With Style, kicks off March 23 with Hamish Tondato started his career at publisher Mondadori and joined a market capitalization of $3.67 billion, or 3 billion euros. Bowles and Kors presenting “Shampoo,” the 1975 Warren Beatty Benetton in 1987, working at several units within the group. He and Julie Christie classic that played a big part in Kors’ fall started at Autogrill in 2000, working his way up to become the AFTER DARK: Diane von Furstenberg is doing her part to spice up collection. Jacobs and Sally Singer are planning to show “The chief operating officer of its U.S. subsidiary HMSHost, a Paris nightlife. The designer revealed that her new flagship Bitter Tears of Petra von Kant” in May, while André Leon Talley is company that runs eateries including Starbucks, Pizza Hut and boutique in the French capital, slated to open in early May just still working out his designer partner and selection. 12 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 15, 2004 Ta rget’s Single-Minde

A dramatic view from Marshall Field’s State Street store in Chicago.Mervyn’s has 266 units, with the bulk in California.

Designer lines, including Yves Saint Laurent, are featured at Field’s. The MAC counters at Field’s.

Continued from page one wrote. “We believe that [Wednesday’s] announcement is indicative of management’s belief sold piecemeal to a big-box retailer such as Linens ‘N Things or Best Buy, or rivals that a turnaround of Mervyn’s and/or Marshall Field’s in a timely manner is unattainable.” such as Kohl’s and J.C. Penney Co., although Target’s preference would obviously be Assuming a purchase multiple of 0.6 times gross sales, she valued Mervyn’s at $2 to sell Mervyn’s as a package. billion and Field’s at $1.4 billion. She agreed with industry consensus that the compa- Carol Sanger, a spokeswoman for Federated, declined comment on its interest in ny will not lack for interested buyers. buying the Field’s or Mervyn’s chains. Sharon Bateman, a spokeswoman for May Co., Kohl’s is “the first to come to mind,” as a buyer of Mervyn’s, she observed. She also said the company had no comment. noted that Kohl’s stated goal to grow square footage by 15 percent rather than their cus- Analysts estimate Marshall Field’s could fetch as much as $3 billion, while the tomary 20 percent next year may “lend credence to our theory that they could be a po- more beleaguered Mervyn’s could go for as little as $700 million and as much as $1.2 tential buyer and grow square footage through an acquisition of Mervyn’s real estate.” billion. Target said assets of Mervyn’s and Field’s are worth $1.8 billion apiece. The KSA’s Aronson said, “The logical contenders [for Field’s] are Federated and May, review process is expected to take several months. which have coveted having a major penetration in the Midwest. Marshall Field’s has Wall Street, for its part, cheered the proposed divestiture. The stock has been trad- locked both of these companies out of it.” ing up since the disclosure Wednesday after the markets closed. Shares of Target He believes both Federated and May “are ready, willing, able to justify a deal, and closed Friday at $45.63, up 93 cents, or 2.1 percent, in trading on the Big Board. whoever writes the bigger check will get them.” He believes there’s a good match-up In Target’s decision to sell off its long ailing Mervyn’s and Field’s divisions, some see a with either company, since Field’s has a “good, better, best” operation, which is simi- larger trend — specialization and the death knell of the retail conglomerate. Department lar to what May and Federated have. stores, in general, have continued to consolidate, lose market share and suffer from mer- As for the 266-store Mervyn’s, KSA’s Aronson believes Kohl’s would be interested in chandise sameness and slim comp-store gains. As reported, total retail sales of depart- some of the locations, but not all of them. He said Target or Wal-Mart could take over ment stores, including national chains such as Penney’s and Sears, fell 5 percent to $319.3 some of the sites. billion last year, from $336.1 billion in 2000, according to the U.S. Census Bureau. “There are enough big-box players in different categories, such as Linens ‘N “There was a retailing habit of putting together different business in the hopes of Things and Bed Bath & Beyond. It’s less likely there’s one customer for all of the synergy,” noted Richard Hastings, vice president, retail sector at research firm Bernard stores,” said Aronson. Sands. “What they’re finding out is there is no synergy. Penney’s is selling Eckerd, Hastings ranked Federated as the best fit culturally for Field’s, but wouldn’t rule Target is dropping its side businesses, the Limited is smaller than what it was, and even out a management-led buyout, citing the number of stores and the relatively reason- Wal-Mart sold its [grocery] distribution business [McLane’s] to Berkshire Hathaway.” able purchase price. He believes May Department Stores should not take on another Arnold Aronson, managing director of retail strategies at Kurt Salmon Associates, flagging department store. added, “What’s happening is the extreme differences in corporations is narrowing. “May Department Stores needs to pay attention to their own issues,” he opined. They’re becoming more focused. With a more focused approach, they’re getting much Walter Loeb, president of Loeb Associates, a retail consultancy, said, “As far as more leverage instead of multitasking.” Marshall Field’s is concerned, I think it will be a bidding war between May and In Target’s case, selling off its two department store divisions will enable it to Federated. Both are interested and would like to own Chicago.” focus on its core 1,167-store mass-market chain, where it is a strong number two in Field’s, a traditional department headquartered in Minneapolis, celebrated its the U.S. But number one is Wal-Mart, the world’s largest retailer with sales of $256 150th anniversary last year. The chain operates 62 stores in eight states in the upper billion a year — a number that dwarfs Target’s revenues of $47 billion. To spur Midwest. Over the past three years, Field’s has experienced a prolonged pattern of growth, Target is accelerating the opening of its Super Target format that combines declining revenues and profits. Sales were $2.58 billion in 2003, down from $2.69 bil- general merchandise and food. Target needs to substantially grow its food sales if it lion in 2002, $2.78 billion in 2001 and $2.97 billion in 2000. wants to close the gap on Wal-Mart even partially — its aim is to grow sales fourfold Operating profits in 2003 came to $107 million, representing 4.1 percent of rev- by 2012, to about $160 billion, although analysts are worried the new focus on food enues, against $135 million in 2002 (5 percent of revenues), $133 million in 2001 (4.8 might distract the retailer from its general merchandise development. percent of revenues) and $190 million in 2000 (6.4 percent of revenues). Meanwhile, news of the putative sales of Field’s and Mervyn’s — which had long Mervyn’s, a promotional, middle-market department store based in Hayward, Calif., been speculated about — had industry experts wondering what company is most like- sells nationally-branded merchandise such as Adidas, Levi’s, Nike, Nine & Co. and Van ly to go after the two divisions. Heusen. Targeting women between 25 years and 44 years old with a moderate income, In a research note, Smith Barney analyst Deborah Weinswig applauded Target’s the chain operates in 14 states, primarily in the west and south. Its financial perform- decision and said it would allow a “keener focus” on the flagship business. She raised ance has also been on the same downward spiral. In 2003, Mervyn’s sales were $3.55 bil- the stock’s target price to $50. lion, down from $3.82 billion in 2002, $4.03 billion in 2001 and $4.14 billion in 2000. “A return to better health [for Mervyn’s and Field’s] would take too many years,” she Its operating profits were $160 million in 2003, or 4.5 percent of revenues, against WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 15, 2004 13

However, “Wal-Mart is sure to have their location scouts out there looking around at Mervyn’s,” predicted Hastings of Bernard Sands. He didn’t think it likely that the frugal Bentonville, Ark. giant would spring for the whole 266-store bundle, but would instead cherry-pick locations. “Some of the Mervyn’s locations are real problems,” he said. “Wal-Mart will probably do a very microscopic analysis and would not purchase any location if the lease agreement is not to their liking. They have the money to develop anything they want, anywhere they want.” ed Approach Whether it’s to Wal-Mart or to someone else, it’s likely the Mervyn’s chain will be sold piecemeal and the name would be pried off the door, he continued. He ranked Kohl’s and Penney’s as top candidates for the purchase. With the divestiture of Eckerd, Penney’s will have cash and management attention for new growth. Hastings believes a Penney’s purchase of Mervyn’s could shift the dynamic between it and rival Kohl’s. Snapshot “If they outbid Kohl’s, theoretically you are looking at a major sea change in the whole Kohl’s story — and not for the better,” he said. But some believe Kohl’s is not as obvious a choice as it was five years ago, when buying a Mervyn’s Mervyn’s 126 doors in California would have facilitated a western expansion. Kohl’s has since gone ahead on its own and opened 40 stores in California, Nevada and Arizona in 2003 2002 CHANGE SAME STORE SALES March 2003, and is continuing to fill out areas in Northern and Southern California. Revenues 3,553 3,816 -6.9% -7.6% Last week, Kohl’s opened seven stores in Northern California, including four in the greater Sacramento area. The chain plans to open five more units in the San Operating Profit 160 238 -32.8% Diego area by April, and San Francisco should get at least one Kohl’s by the third quarter of this year, according to a spokeswoman. STORES Although Kohl’s has not performed as well on the West Coast as expected, its entry was the kiss of death for Mervyn’s. Not only did Mervyn’s lack Kohl’s financial muscle California 126 Utah 8 and price leverage, it never had the support of Target, said analysts. Some predicted the Texas 42 Oregon 7 chain lost between 2 percent and 4 percent of its sales when Kohl’s entered the market. Washington 14 Louisiana 6 Kohl’s could be more interested in picking up a few Mervyn’s locations to complete its expansion in the state, but observers said it would be unlikely. “If you asked Arizona 15 Nevada 6 Kohl’s, ‘Would Mervyn’s still be attractive?’ I would say it would be only in pieces,” Michigan 15 Oklahoma 3 said Gary Holdsworth, an analyst at Wedbush Morgan Securities in Los Angeles. “And Minnesota 9 New Mexico 3 I doubt that Target is going to sell it in pieces.” Richard Giss, an analyst at the retail services group of Deloitte & Touche in Los Colorado 11 Idaho 1 Angeles, agreed. “If they have underperforming stores, they might try to shed those Total 266 but, frankly, to split it up and to try to sell it in pieces — I don’t know if you get the same price as selling it whole. And it would complicate the sale,” he said. Loeb agrees that finding a buyer for Mervyn’s may be difficult. He believes Marshall Field’s Penney’s could be interested once it sells Eckerd, and it could look at Mervyn’s as a freestanding operation. “Kohl’s loves to have their own type of store, but yes, I think 2003 2002 CHANGE SAME STORE SALES they’d be interested,” said Loeb. Loeb doesn’t know if Mervyn’s will continue as it is. “It doesn’t have the image. It Revenues 2,584 2,691 4.0% -2.6% experimented and tried too many different approaches,” he added. Operating Profit 107 135 -20.7% Loeb thought it was surprising that Target decided to sell both department stores at the same time. He figured it would have tried to sell Mervyn’s first. He added that with Target carrying so many brands these days, such as Isaac Mizrahi and Mossimo, STORES “they don’t need [a Marshall Field’s] to get an entree to Calvin Klein.” Michigan 21 Ohio 1 Harry Bernard, executive vice president and chief marketing officer at Colton Bernard, a San Francisco-based consulting firm, felt Federated was the better fit for Illinois 17 North Dakota 3 Field’s than May. Minnesota 12 Indiana 2 “Marshall Field’s has spent millions of dollars restructuring the image of the store, Wisconsin 5 South Dakota 1 and it still has cachet. I would suspect Federated would do anything it could to get it. It would give them a cross between Macy’s West and Bloomingdale’s,” said Bernard. Total 62 Ed Nakfoor, a retail consultant working in the Detroit area, observed, “When the name of the [Daytons and Hudsons] store was changed, the theory I heard here was FIGURES IN MILLIONS, EXCEPT STORE COUNTS. SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS that a sale would be easier for one brand than three. I have been predicting that Federated Department Stores would snap up some of the Marshall Field’s locations because we don’t have any stores here that are part of the Federated umbrella.” $238 million in 2002 (6.2 percent of revenues), $286 million in 2001 (7.1 percent of rev- Nakfoor noted that based on the store sites he’s seen, his expectation is that in cer- enues) and $269 million in 2000 (6.5 percent of revenues). tain malls a Bloomingdale’s could easily open up in a Marshall Field’s site. Chicago is where Field’s has had the most opportunity to attract upscale shoppers. “Everybody here knows Bloomingdale’s and Macy’s since they’re all traveling east at Detroit, a Field’s stronghold, has been hit hard by the thousands of layoffs at the Big one time or another,” he observed. Three auto firms. The company didn’t experience the kind of sales lift that retailers in Some of the older locations in the suburbs would make more sense for a Macy’s, he other regions had in the second half of last year, with the possible exception of the State said. As for Mervyn’s, Nakfoor wasn’t sure what its future may hold. “Nobody really Street flagship, which underwent a complete overhaul last year, with major floor renova- knows what it is and Mervyn’s doesn’t really register when there’s a J.C. Penney or tions, leased shops with limited distribution, unusual adjacencies and an eclectic assort- Kohl’s nearby,” the consultant noted. ment — motorcycles, pianos, organs and multiple food concepts — in a strategy modeled Analysts believe Target will be financially better off without Mervyn’s and Field’s. after Selfridges in London. Gary Balter, retail analyst at UBS, wrote in a research note that the sale of the two Retail sources attribute Field’s domination in the Chicago, Detroit and Minneapolis chains “will enhance both the growth rate of the remaining entity and the multiple as markets to less intense competition than that on the East and West Coasts. Field’s com- investors can now buy a superb discount store without distractions.” petes most directly with Kohl’s, Carson Pirie Scott, Sears, Roebuck & Co., and Penney’s, As a stand-alone Target, and assuming the discounter uses the cash received to buy as well as discounters such as T.J. Maxx and Old Navy. Hennes & Mauritz opened in back stock or retire debt at the beginning of the year, the firm should earn between Chicago last year, and is slowly expanding west from Chicago, and also south from $2.20 and $2.30 per share in 2004, according to Balter. “If Target gets the multiple it Washington, D.C. Bloomingdale’s, too, has a few locations, though its parent corpora- deserves as a 15 percent plus growth company, then we believe a low 20s multiple is tion, Federated, and May Co., have little presence in Field’s Midwestern market. within grasp, reaching our current target price,” he wrote. Field’s core customer is between 40 and 60 years old with the median customer As for valuation, there seems to be a wide discrepancy on the price tag each chain age at 48 and the median family income at $63,000. It has about two dozen branches in could command. the 300,000-square-foot range, considered large, or “A,” locations. The smallest Field’s According to Balter, “Marshall Field’s is where the value lies and we get a $2.9 billion department stores are 150,000 square feet. value for it. They are the dominant player in the Midwest and should obtain a better val- “Our stores are in very good condition,” said Linda Ahlers, president of Field’s, in an uation than the public companies because of synergies and currently lower margins.” interview with WWD last year. Over the last eight years, a significant amount of capital He noted that Mervyn’s is the one that promises to be a challenge, but that it could has been poured into improving the look and physical character of branches, she added. fetch $700 million, or less than three times cash flow. Field’s has benefited enormously from its big corporate parent, utilizing Target’s Emme Kozloff, analyst at Bernstein Research Call, applauded the divestiture deci- corporate store planning, engineering, design and purchasing operations. Much of the sion, writing in a research note: “We view this action as a major positive given that manpower and purchasing power for installing new shops and fixtures at the State management’s strategic rationale for owning the divisions has become decreasingly Street flagship, and the speed with which it all happened, is attributable to Target. relevant (cash flow, merchandising expertise and scale) and a stand-alone Target dis- Conversely, Field’s has served as an in-house fashion forecasting and trendsetting count division is a cleaner and more attractive story.” service for Target that some key competitors like Wal-Mart and Kmart don’t have. She estimated that Target could sell Field’s for $1.5 billion while Mervyn’s could Mervyn’s is a murkier situation. Already, observers believe Mervyn’s is expected to yield something near the $1.2 billion range. draw bids lower than its $1.8 billion book value. Anyone who purchases Mervyn’s, however, will need to budget for improvements. A problem is that Mervyn’s stores are in inferior locations, either in “B” or “C”malls “Target Corp. has not dedicated capital to maintaining the infrastructure of the or power centers that may not be attractive to new growth retailers. “That was one of buildings for years,” said Hurwitz. “They will need substantial renovations — at least the reasons Mervyn’s was underperforming to begin with,” Holdsworth said. a facelift and an updated look — for any potential buyer.” Daniel Hurwitz, executive vice president for Developers Diversified Realty, which Ilse Metchek, executive director of the California Fashion Association, pointed out serves as Mervyn’s landlord in several markets, said the chain’s units range from that most of Mervyn’s stores in California were those of the now-defunct Broadway 60,000 square feet to 100,000 square feet. That potentially makes them attractive to a chain. “The history of those spots is not great wherever they are,” she said. Metchek also wide range of players, as does their location in high-density areas. believes that Mervyn’s is representative of a dying niche. “In the early Seventies and He predicted aggressively growing category killers — such as Best Buy, Bed Bath & Eighties, pre Wal-Mart or Target, they introduced low-priced branded merchandise and Beyond and Petsmart — will take a gander at the sites. TJX Cos., which has been test- that was a big thing,” she said. “But now whoever is in that moderate niche is having a ing large-size Mega Marshalls or units that combine a Marmaxx unit with a Home hell of a time and it’s not just Mervyn’s,” she said, noting competitor Robinsons-May is Goods for one large box, is also on the prowl for bigger spaces. also having trouble. “Who would want them? Who thinks they could do it better?” Asked if a purchase of either Target Corp. property was possible, a Wal-Mart spokeswoman — With contributions from Vicki M. Young and Dan Burrows, New York; issued the retailer’s customary response that it would not speculate on future business. Kristin Young, Los Angeles and Katherine Bowers, Boston 14 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 15, 2004

Financial Weekly Stock Index 52-Week P/E Sales Amt Charming Shoppes Raises Guidance High Low (000’s) Last Change Broadline Retailers NEW YORK — Charming Shoppes sales, meanwhile, are forecast to cents, compared with the cur- 15.25 3.61 Bon-Ton Stores 10.6 4364 15.20 1.92 Inc. expects substantial bottom- grow in the low- to mid-single-dig- rent Wall Street estimate of 38 18.88 12.51 Dillard’s 158.4 41796 18.09 -0.29 line growth on minimal top-line its, much improved over last year, cents. Full-year revenues are 54.65 25.15 Federated 13.4 67332 51.94 -1.61 gains by the end of its current when they decreased 6 percent. slated to grow to approximately first quarter. The operator of the Lane $2.4 billion and comps should in- 6.26 0.94 Gottschalks 24.4 1535 5.38 -0.23 The Bensalem, Pa.-based spe- Bryant and Fashion Bug name- crease in the low-single-digits, 33.58 15.57 J.C. Penney 26.4 157909 32.03 -1.11 cialty retailer said Friday that plates, among others, should gen- the company said. 36.48 18.51 May Dept. Stores 15.9 92791 33.15 -2.24 for the three months ending May erate earnings growth primarily For the year, the company 7.40 1.51 Retail Ventures - 6207 7.03 0.01 1 diluted earnings per share are through higher comparable-store also said it will open 55 new 17.88 7.00 Saks 28.6 47360 16.62 -1.19 projected to be 11 to 12 cents, sales and gross margin expansion stores, with the majority of 56.06 18.25 Sears 3.8 108510 45.00 -2.46 considerably higher than the 8 based on strong inventory man- openings in strip center formats. 45.86 27.05 Target 22.1 333646 45.63 2.43 cents a share the company re- agement. A comparable number of stores 61.31 48.21 Wal-Mart 28.5 556814 58.48 -1.76 ported in last year’s first quarter. Although Charming Shoppes are also set for closure. By Wall Street’s current first-quar- is not scheduled to release its brand, the chain will open 35 Softline Retailers ter estimate is 12 cents. fiscal 2004 results until later this Lane Bryant stores and close 10; 47.15 17.40 Ann Taylor 18.5 43495 43.31 -1.87 Sales for the period are fore- week, the company also provid- open 15 Catherine’s Plus Sizes 5.97 0.73 Bluefly - 6893 3.33 -0.45 cast to be $585 million, a 3.7 per- ed its outlook for fiscal 2005. and close 15, and open five 22.50 15.45 Burlington Coat 17.0 3681 19.22 -0.78 cent gain over year-ago revenues Earnings per share are project- Fashion Bug sites and close 25. 7.60 2.98 Charming Shoppes 22.7 42979 7.60 0.39 of $564.3 million. Same-store ed to be between 44 and 46 —Dan Burrows 47.60 17.39 Chico’s FAS 39.0 76674 46.02 -1.33 17.79 12.20 Dress Barn 66.2 4439 17.63 0.53 27.43 9.57 Foot Locker 17.2 62420 24.15 -1.61 23.47 13.50 Gap 17.9 157936 20.98 -0.64 Deb Shops Sees Net Fall 26.4 Percent 65.44 40.81 Kohl’s 29.3 159832 52.00 -0.86 21.02 11.70 Limited Brands 14.0 162286 19.21 -0.23 NEW YORK — Merchandising 2.6 percent to $80.7 million from months since October 2002, Deb 59.70 26.19 Neiman Marcus Group 16.6 10020 57.25 -1.93 challenges and slower mall traf- $82.8 million a year ago. Shops has shown some signs of 41.25 15.00 Nordstrom 21.2 48383 38.70 -0.92 fic sharply reduced Deb Shops “Our merchandising and mall recovery after reporting compa- 25.78 12.27 Pacific Sunwear 21.8 71150 23.71 -0.72 Inc.’s profits in the fourth quar- traffic challenges persisted rable-store sales gains of 12.7 32.86 16.87 Ross Stores 20.3 70958 28.98 -0.85 ter and full fiscal year. throughout fiscal 2004,” said chief percent last month and 5 percent 8.40 6.20 Syms - 443 8.08 0.10 For the three months ended executive officer Marvin Rounick in January. 38.65 24.05 Talbots 18.3 37880 34.80 -1.47 Jan. 31, the Philadelphia-based in a statement. “We believe that For the fiscal year, the chain 24.69 16.42 TJX 18.2 115995 23.76 -0.79 specialty retailer said net income our merchandising efforts have said net earnings fell 49.9 percent fell 26.4 percent to $8.6 million, recently shown improvement and to $12.8 million, or 93 cents a Vendors or 63 cents a diluted share. That that a growing economy has mod- share. Net sales for the period de- 46.95 31.62 Alberto Culver 23.2 28527 44.72 -0.75 compares with last year’s earn- estly increased foot traffic.” creased 6 percent to $298.6 mil- 74.88 52.33 Avon 25.7 68095 72.51 0.26 ings of $11.7 million, or 85 cents. After posting declining same- lion from $317.7 million last year. 23.05 14.75 Cherokee 12.2 625 21.95 0.99 Sales for the period dipped store sales for 15 consecutive —D.B. 44.33 18.05 Coach 37.5 75382 40.63 -2.62 59.39 33.59 Columbia Sportswear 16.9 7156 52.06 -1.44 Biggest Percentage Changes 33.89 16.85 Del Laboratories 16.2 722 32.20 -1.68 For Week Ending March 12 44.17 27.66 Estée Lauder 30.5 43796 42.55 -1.02 Gainers Close Change Fossil Declares Stock Split 34.95 16.20 Fossil 21.8 10386 33.50 -1.11 Bon-Ton Stores 15.20 14.46 12.00 4.71 G-III 10.7 508 10.36 -0.39 Quiksilver 21.48 10.04 NEW YORK — Fossil Inc. said will be April 8. The company 99.80 83.91 Gucci 30.8 3054 85.50 -0.13 Target 45.63 5.63 Friday that its board has de- had approximately 45.8 million 17.58 3.30 Guess 93.0 10307 16.25 -0.87 Charming Shoppes 7.60 5.41 clared a 50 percent stock divi- shares of its common stock out- 38.18 26.50 Jones Apparel 14.6 29965 36.50 -1.20 Warnaco 18.86 4.95 dend on its common stock, having standing as of March 10. 43.54 26.79 Kellwood 14.6 9188 40.10 -1.68 Losers Close Change the effect of a 3-for-2 stock split. “This split is the fourth in our 36.90 18.55 Kenneth Cole 19.3 4450 32.41 0.41 Bluefly 3.33 -11.90 Stockholders of record on 11-year history and reflects our 38.90 28.22 Liz Claiborne 14.0 22143 36.44 -1.39 Unifi 4.49 -11.79 March 26 will be entitled to one confidence in Fossil’s growth po- 6.90 3.40 Mossimo 14.1 2632 4.10 -0.13 Delta Woodside 2.40 -9.43 additional share of common tential,” said Mike Kovar, chief 32.50 18.25 Movado 16.4 1332 29.75 -0.41 Tropical Sportswear 1.35 -7.53 stock for every two shares held financial officer, in a statement. on that date. The payment date Fossil recently posted strong 46.70 11.70 Oxford 28.2 4852 46.69 0.29 Saks 16.62 -6.68 19.95 11.82 Phillips-Van Heusen 18.4 9559 18.80 -1.02 results for both the fourth quarter and year. For the three months 34.75 20.10 Polo Ralph Lauren 17.9 21967 33.32 -0.99 WWDStock Market Index for the Week Ending March 12 ended Jan. 3, the Richardson, 22.39 14.19 Quiksilver 19.8 68667 21.48 1.96 Tex.-based company saw earnings 3.93 2.05 Revlon - 46808 3.10 -0.16 Composite: 122.76 Broadline Stores: 120.63 Softline Stores: 131.20 gain 24.7 percent to $29 million. 21.15 15.43 Russell Corp. 13.5 5403 18.24 0.05 Double-digit increases in 4.76 2.00 Tarrant Apparel - 1541 2.30 0.05 both foreign and domestic mar- 17.18 5.61 Tommy Hilfiger - 37562 16.47 0.17 kets drove sales up 22 percent, 8.59 1.17 Tropical Sportswear - 4657 1.35 -0.11 15.1 percent excluding positive -2.90 -3.33 -3.43 45.74 33.43 VF Corp. 12.0 11680 44.40 -1.10 currency gains, to $259.2 million. Investors reacted favorably to 19.99 8.80 Warnaco - 24609 18.86 0.89 Vendors: 122.30 Textiles: 101.42 the announcement, with shares Index base of 100 is Textiles trading up 4.5 percent, or $1.43, keyed to closing prices 3.97 1.35 Delta Woodside - 198 2.40 -0.25 to close at $33.50 in Nasdaq trad- of Dec. 31, 2002. ing on Friday. 25.00 2.25 Guilford Mills - 735 18.97 -0.13 -1.24 0.11 7.37 4.25 Unifi - 12216 4.49 -0.60 —Ross Tucker WWDCollege Issue date: April 15, 2004 Close: April 1 Invaluable Access.

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By Julee Greenberg By Evan Clark On business overall, she said, back.” Meyer added that Red “Everything’s on the upswing, Threds now has more of a com- NEW YORK — Rampage is getting a facelift. NEW YORK — Vendors reaped that’s for sure.” mercial focus and features flat- With the help of the Buxbaum Group, a Los Angeles-based firm, the benefits of more economi- There were also exhibitors at tering cuts and distinctive fab- the 15-year-old junior apparel brand will be provided with strong fi- cally assured retailers at D&A showing the results of re- rics. In short, “comfortable nancial and operational resources to expand globally. This is a Designers & Agents last week. cent restructurings. things that look good.” The latest much-needed resource for Rampage, since the $85 million company The show ran March 1-3 at the Seattle-based designer Kelsi collection features over 100 seemed to have hit a plateau. Starrett-Lehigh Center here and Ammon recently relaunched the items and wholesales for any- The Buxbaum featured 116 exhibitor booths Francie line as Cheek. Though it where from $18 to $300. Group, headed by showing products from 175 com- has an accessories base, Cheek Some of the exhibitors at the The new Rampage Paul Buxbaum and The new Rampage panies. Attendance increased 25 includes jackets, sportswear show were also picking up on David Ellis, have be- ads will hit April percent to 1,850 versus a year ago. and dresses, with some of the the wave of dressier looks. come partners with magazines. Stefania Valpreda, sales looks incorporating hand-paint- San Francisco-based design- Rampage’s owner, agent for Tremont Dorsay sell- ed leather inlays of intricate er Rachel Mara said flannel pin- Larry Hansel. Han- ing the Fifi Cashmere line, butterflies, peacocks and tigers. stripe pants have been a big sel will continue to noted, “Business has been very “This is definitely a particu- seller in her signature line. offer the fashion good. It’s not easy for everybody, lar customer [who buys Cheek],” “It’s sexy men’s wear, almost,” sportswear and but we can’t complain.” said Ammon, who added the she said, noting that sheer tops dresses as Bux- The line added open-stitch line was “inspired by art from paired with camisoles have also baum and Ellis are looks for spring and was suc- posters from music venues like been doing well. providing the ap- cessful enough with them to the Filmore East and West.” Moshe Toledo, who was at the propriate finan- keep them on for fall. Wholesale The firm has also moved show buying for New York-based cials for manufac- prices range from $84 to $94. away from overseas production. Montartre, which has five stores, turing, sourcing Anna Barthelme, designer “We tried it. It just didn’t work said, “We find this show very re- and marketing. for Los Angeles-based Lily for us,” she said, citing quality as freshing.” “Rampage has McNeal, was upbeat on the first a key motivator for bringing pro- One of the appeals of D&A was always been a great day of the show. duction back home. “Our clients its range of offerings. “Our stores junior brand, known “People come knowing what really appreciate the handwork are mixed and not everybody for its fashion ap- they want, so there’s not a lot of and the quality. Cheek is about wants to look very sexy,” he said. parel,” Ellis said. chitchat and boring conversation,” authenticity and handwork.” Inessa Yelizarova and Jenny “We are coming in Barthelme. “It’s all about the mer- Also showing at D&A was San Ouliguian were at D&A shop- to add our core chandise and it’s very direct. Francisco-based Red Threds. ping for their store, Dolce Moda, strength, which is They’ve got a lot of lines to see.” Previously designed by Allison in Royal Oak, Mich. the back end of the She said stripes continue to Nelson, the line is now put to- Ye lizarova said business has business.” be important, while looks with gether jointly by Nelson and been doing “very well.” They Rampage can now focus on not only providing clothes to its regu- off-beat color combinations, Mary Meyer. were there looking for sophisti- lar department store customers, but on pursuing specialty stores such as orange and dark blue or Nelson said the new line was cated, unusual looks that would such as Nordstrom and Mandee. To help with merchandising du- fuchsia and red, are also selling. drawing “a lot of positive feed- stand out. ties, Rampage has hired Holly Fiene, formerly a merchandiser at the XOXO brand. In addition, Ellis and Buxbaum are investing more money in advertising so Rampage can go beyond touting its core mix of apparel and include its nine licenses, which range from a fragrance line to Variety, Ts Spur Sales at FAME swimwear. The firm also plans on some major international expansion. NEW YORK — For retailers on toon version of Martha Stewart ceptive to our newest styles, Rampage already holds master licensing deals with Sonoma the prowl for a variety of mer- behind bars screen-printed on it. which is a great sign.” Designs to wholesale and retail all products throughout Mexico, chandise, the Fashion Avenue “We first introduced that T- The Hollywood The Jean Central and South America, which will open stores in Colombia, Market Expo fit the bill. shirt in June and it has done re- People collection wholesales Ecuador, Chile and a second store in Panama this year. This will Business Journal Inc.’s FAME, ally well, but now that the trial from $12.50 for a knit top to $35 bring the number of stores to 28. Rampage will sign a deal within which ended its three-day run on is over and Martha is guilty, you for jeans. the month for a Middle East licensee, as well as a licensing deal Tuesday, showcased an array of have no idea how many of those Tamara Freedman, owner of with a company in Russia and the Philippines. sportswear, ready-to-wear and shirts we have placed orders the Boston-based Tamara hand- “We are also negotiating with several companies for a Europe li- accessories. Held at the Jacob K. for,” Burke said, assuring that bags, was also experiencing a cense,” said Samantha Wilson, vice president of licensing. Javits Convention Center here, buyers can have the shirts ready busy show. Also in the U.S., Rampage has 42 freestanding stores, which are li- buyers could find anything from for retail in about a week — be- “This show was great for me censed to Charlotte Russe. Charlotte Russe plans to open more free- a formal gown from Sue Wong to fore the novelty runs out. “We last time,” Freedman said. “I standing Rampage stores this year. The company’s most recently a kitschy T-shirt at House of just thought it was a fun idea, started selling to Arden B. last launched product, a fragrance, has been doing so well in department Bimbo to a vintage-inspired but it really gets people talking.” show, which was great for me.” stores that First American Brands, which holds the license for the handbag at Clara Kasavina. The Be As You Are Inc. collec- Her booth was packed with Rampage fragrance, will not only debut a new scent in the spring, but “This is always a really great tion wholesales from $9 for a basic buyers looking to pick up the will also roll out a full skin care and color collection. show for us,” said Kimberly T-shirt or a baseball cap to $12.50 pink tweed and leather detailed Even the product has gone through some changes. The sportswear is Burke, sales and marketing rep- for a bracelet-length, fitted T. handbag and the hot pink cor- not as junior looking as it was. According to Lisa Bucci, vice presi- resentative from the Washington, At the Montreal-based Holly- duroy tote that Britney Spears dent of sales, the company is going for a more contemporary look, D.C.-based Be As You Are Inc. wood The Jean People, Allen has been photographed wearing. without moving away from the junior price point. “We’ve been doing this show for a Gauthier, vice president of sales, “Britney was photographed “The line itself is much more balanced,” she said. “It’s really long time and we consistently do said retailers were picking up the wearing the tote and then it evolved with the lifestyle of the customer and so far it seems to be a good amount of business here.” company’s newest styles, like the ended up in Us Weekly. It was working — we are about 15 to 20 percent over plan.” Burke said retailers have cotton and polyester jeans in great for business because now Ellis said he expects the volume to stay around the same, about $85 been attracted to the company’s dark, medium and light washes. all the stores want to pick it up,” million to $90 million by the end of the year. Ts and tanks with sayings such as He was also selling crosshatch Freedman said. “Jessica Simpson “It may be a little under or flat to last year because of the invest- “You’re Fired” and “Bloody denim jeans in all washes. also has one. It’s been amazing.” ments we are making into the brand,” Ellis said. “It will have great re- Mary.” But the company’s num- “We have been very satisfied The Tamara handbag line sults in the long term, since the natural growth opportunity for this ber-one seller these days is the with sales so far,” Gauthier said. wholesales from $18 to $55. brand is to diversify and get back into the businesses we were once in.” “Free Martha” T-shirt with a car- “Retailers have been really re- — Julee Greenberg WWD “A” Accessories Supplement May Market – Fall ’04 Coated Stock Supplement: April 26 Close: March 29 A Featuring an expanded watch WWDAccessories Supplement 2004 section plus handbags, jewelry and accessories.

Don’t miss out on this special accessories supplement covering the hottest styles and trends for watches, handbags and jewelry.

Position your brand as a fashion accessory in the leading news source trusted by the retailers, buyers and top management that impact your business.

Bonus Distribution: Women’s and Children’s L.A., ENK Accessories Circuit

For advertising in these special WWD coated stock supplements, contact Alix Michel, Associate Publisher, Accessories, at 212/630-4596; Kara Levy, West Coast Account Executive, at 323/951-1805, or your WWD sales representative. WWDMediaWorldwide® PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE 18 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 15, 2004

8th Ave #555 24/7 Attendant Best Deals On The Avenue DESIGNER 1675-3108 sq ft Beautifully Renovated Large Intimate Apparel Co. Owner 212-695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 Seeking a creative, motivated Designer with Bra & Panties experience. Product is distributed to mass merchants, mid- tier, and Dept. Stores. Strong sense of color, trends, follow through, sketching skills, and garment construction knowledge req’d. Team oriented with proven organizational and interpersonal skills. Minimum 2 years exp.. E-mail resumes to: [email protected] Designer/Merchandiser Major Accessory Company seeks indiv. Pattern - Production - Samples for Men’s, Women’s & Kids’ Headwear. Must have at least 5 years experience. Full - Fast - Quality Fax Resume - 212-213-4347 212-575-1001 Designer to $100K Current exp. in contemporary woven imported dresses req’d. Dept PATTERN/SAMPLES store level. Must hang w/ Laundry, BCBG, Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Eva Blue, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Designer to $100K current exp. in JR woven dresses/sportswear Dept store level. Must hang PATTERNS, SAMPLES, w/ Speechless, Jonathan Martin, My Michelle, PRODUCTIONS Byer, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Designer to $70K Current exp. In Call Sherry 212-719-0622. bridge men’s market cut and sewn knit tops. Famous designer label. Midtown. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy PRODUCTIONS Director of Import Samples and patterns full servcie shop Major apparel company seeks individu- to the trade. Fine fast work. al with minimum 3 years experience. 212-869-2699. Responsibilities include scheduling SEEKING SUCCESSOR --NY Fashion and monitoring overseas shipments PTTNS/SMPLS/BEADING and processing documents to ensure Accessory multiline Rep Co w/showrm, 257 W. 38th St. 10th Fl. for Sale or creative-partnership. Niche timely delivery. Knowledge of AS 400 Service & Custom Tailor required. LC experience is a must. Biz, Est’d, Hi-profile, Turn Key. Call Johnny at 646-441-0950 Inquiries: [email protected] Fax resume to 212-239-2766. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD FABRIC COORDINATOR High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- Weareawomen’s private label apparel sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 company seeking an experienced and energetic individual to work in our Warehousing & Disrtribution growing fabric department. Min. 3 - 5 Personal service from a Public Warehouse. years fabric sourcing experience. Exciting New Handbag Co. Convenient B’klyn. location. All Services Some travel required. Merchandising (Ticketing, Pick & Pack, EDI, etc.) background is a plus. Good computer Seeking Independent Sales Reps with skills required. Direct Selling experience for Great Oppor- Garments, Accessories, Novelties. Your back office okay. Please fax your resume to 212-382-1937 tunity. Must be motivated self starter with Attn: Anne direct sales relationships. Fax/E-mail to: Call Bob Harris @ 917-681-7389 Acct/Controller to $100K current exp. 845-639-7026 / [email protected] in apparel co. required. Strong in tax- es, financial, insurance, liaison w/ Graphic Designer/Artist banks. Shirt sleeve. No delegation. Growing children’s sleepwear compa- Computerized. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy ny seeking graphic artist with a min of 1-3 years exp. working in the children’s sleepwear industry. Must have experience with devel for Dept. Award Winning Designer stores. Photoshop/ Illustrator a must. Men’s Wear Co. with top retail accounts Admin Since 1967 Fax resume and salary requirement to: seeks working capital financing. Please W-I-N-S-T-O-N (212) 202-4396 or email E-mail to: [email protected] [email protected]. APPAREL STAFFING Openings in Apparel Thru Baby Jersey - Baby Rib DESIGN*SALES*MERCH French Terry - Lycra+reg ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION APPAREL STAFFING, LTD. Jersey + Rib Lycra + reg (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 CFO- Major Apparel Mfr.-Xlnt Company 718-389-8902 Admin/Sales Asstnt.-Access. Mfr. Xlnt Oppty Sr. Dsgnr.-Tailored Career Wear-Metro Area LOST LEASE; EVERYTHING MUST GO! Designer-Career Wear - Las Vegas Based Position Rhinestone Jewelry; Hair Accessories; Costing Dept. Mgr -Designer Label Co. Giftware; Buttons (all types); Fixtures; Allocation & Billing Production Coordin.- Bi-Lingual Required Glass counters; More! $180k Retail-Steal Ladies’ Apparel Co. seeks allocation Quality Control-Visit Local Factories-Knit Sptswr. for $25K obo! Call Perry @ 212-768-7441 and billing specialist. Knowledge of Techn Dsgnr.-Full Fashion Sweaters-Xlnt Oppty. routing a must. Positive working environment. Techn Dsgnr. - Moderate Missy Sweater Mfr. Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. Call or Fax resumes to Jimmy or Kamal: Techn Dsgnr. -C.W.R. Cut N Sew Knits Xlnt Oppty Tel: 212-704-9603 / Fax: 212-704-0462 Women’s Sportswear Designer No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Other [email protected] Call CLOTHES-OUT: (937) 898-2975 Prestigious apparel company seeks women’s designer with or Fax Resume to (212) 302-1161 sportswear collection experience. Qualified candidate will PATTERNMAKER Investment & Sales Force AR/CB ANALYST have minimum of five years experience in fast paced NJ Based - Candidate should have development environment. Intimate Apparel and Loungewear Co. Innovative denim concept, seeking NY and/or Northeast PA. Knowledge of investment and sales force. Relation- good comm. skills - verbal & written - exp with major stores a plus. Multi We offer competitive salary and benefits. Forward resume to Gerber System a Plus. Fax resume & ships with high-in retailers including salary history to HR at: 212-889-7235 Saks 5th Ave., Scoop, Fred Segal, tasking & factor exp a must. [email protected]. Please no phone calls. Email resume [email protected] Barneys etc a must. Interested parties PATTERNMAKER please contact Kiye: Designer $80-$100K. Current exp. in [email protected] Leading Ladies’ Apparel Co. seeks highly moderate missy sweaters. Fashion skilled Patternmakers to develop first vison of Liz Claiborne etc. 1411 Broad- patterns through production. Knowledge way. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy. of MS Excel & Gerber a plus, not required. Assistant Designer/Girls Dresses Designer Assistant Fax resume/salary history: 212-214-0435 Leading girls dress co. is looking for Patternmaking an assistant designer. Must be able to COORDINATOR Bridge suit and separate house seeks make first patterns and cut. Detail Hot aggressive menswear company good organizer with strong sketching Bra Spec Technician RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 oriented and team player. Minimum 2 seeking Showroom Coordinator.Must ability responsible for first sample. Updating/Phone Interviews years experience. Fax your resume: have great organizational and commu- Minimum 5 years exp. Great benefits! Major Intimate Apparel Manufacturer PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. Linda (212)-967-4915 nication skills, proficient in excel, Fax resume to Maddie: 212-869-5393 seeks bra expert! Responsibilities include: patternmaking, fittings, 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 import trafficking experience and DESIGNER (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425 light accounting. Self motivated, high specing, grading & communicating de- www.resumesforfashion.com powered environment. Send Resume Assistant Designer tailed comments to overseas factories. by fax to: 212-869-5557. Att: HR Dept. Must be able to sketch & be computer literate. Overseas production experi- For Space in Garment Center Men’s Sportswear ASSISTANT DESIGNER Data Entry Midtown men’s sportswear co is grow- ence a plus. Please fax resume to Helmsley-Spear, Inc. ing and needs creative highly motivat- 212-842-4020. Growing Junior panty & daywear co. Required with EDI and 3 years Equal Opportunity Employer 212-880-0414 seeks talented Asst Designer. Must be garment indusrty experience. ed assistant designer. Experience with a self starter, detail oriented, &have a Fax resumes to 212-382-3623 men’s woven and knit sportswear a Showroom / Office / Retail sense of humor. CAD experience required. plus. Must be a team player with a flair SaraMax We find you space-best deal-no fee Please fax resume to (212) 679-4260 for interpreting major trends, along Sublet 525 7th/ready Design Assisant with strong color and pattern sense. Garment Center Real Estate Children’s sleepwear Company seeks Fax resume to 212-686-4336 attn: Jeff Prod Manager/Design Asst Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 well organized Design Assistant for fil- Hats ing, correspondence,schedule updates Designer Assistant to $50K. min 1 year BOOKKEEPER current exp. in girls underwear required. High-end, LES hat design co. seeks Assist controller with daily functions and working with designers. Proficient detail-oriented individ to manage Showrooms & Lofts in Excel & Illustrator. Must hang w/ Limited too, Nick & Nora of A/R, A/P and Payroll. Computerized etc. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy production and design in a fast-paced BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Jr Graphic Designer & manual books. Knowledge of importing Fax resume to: 212-279-2590 environ. Must have 1-2 yrs. production Great ’New’ Office Space Avail and/or garment industry a plus. Please and sourcing exp. Millinery cut-and- ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 We need highly motivated team Designer Assoc. $40-$55K. Current Min two fax resume with salary requirements: Design years exp. in better to bridge market. Must sew prod exp a MAJOR plus. players that thrive in a fast paced (866) 719-5975 hang w/ Tahari, Theory, Kasper, etc. Both crea- Fax: 212-674-1769 environment. This job requires Westbury Long Island Location Associate Designer tive + product devel. Fittings, sketching, fol- strong graphic artists with Est’d., fast-paced Private Label Sportswear low up calendar, etc. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT MAC/Illustrator/Photoshop experi- Co. seeks take-charge, talented, organized Candie’s individual to oversee execution of our ASSISTANT ence. Knowledge of bags/ back- knit top line. Must be a self-starter, able Designer ROSETTI Handbags & Accessories packs a plus. Merchandise/Fashion Director to multitask, detail oriented with good seeks fashion motivated indiv to work Candie’s is looking for a merchandis- communication & computer skills. 2-4 Intimate Apparel with our Product team. 42 West 38th St. Fax Scott at 212-947-7968 ing executive to drive the Jr. lifestyle years exp. req’d. Fax or E-mail resume: Global intimate apparel co. located in REQUIREMENTS 510 sq. ft. Showroom/Office businesses forward (licensed apparel, 718-937-5812 / [email protected] Secaucus, NJ seeks Designer with at *self motivation, detail oriented Separate Entrance; 24/7 Doorman. footwear and accessories). Trend fore- least 2 years experience in lingerie. w/great comm. & follow up skills Call 212-947-9588 casting, creativity, strong merchandis- Design Director Merchandiser to $150K Degree in Fashion Design & excellent *excellent p/c (excel) skills Acctant Chief Financial Officer/COO to ing capability is essential. A history of Current exp. in better to bridge cut & sew PC skills also req’d. We offer competi- *minimum 3 years of general retail or $200K. Current exp. in min. $50-100 mil strong licensee partnerships and knit bottoms and tops sportswear. Career tive compensation, annual bonus, manufacturing experience. Showroom Sublet-Brand New vol import apparel co. req’d. Oversee com- driving multiple businesses is needed. w/o being to structured fashion vision. 401(k), health benefits, and opportunity Great opportunity with room for 171 Madison 3800 FT Wood Floors puterized systems for implementation of Salary commensurate w/ability. Must hang w/ Andrea Jovine or St. Johns for growth. To apply, send resume to: advancement for assistant buyer. Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 operations, warehousing, production etc. Pro- Fax confidential resume to Lisa: but not as serious. Strong in product [email protected] Email to [email protected] Search-www.manhattanoffices.com jections, margins, etc. Fax 973-379-1275 Agcy 212.391.2057 devel. No sweaters. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy. Equal Opportunity Employer or fax to 646-452-5571 WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 15, 2004 19

test issue boasts 140 pages in a small format with celebrity-driven features, fashion for teens — and a healthy More Join Group EUROPE WATCH irreverence. To wit: Pop diva Christina Aguilera graces the cover, but inside the BY GEORGE, WE'RE GROWING: George, the magazine points out an unnerving likeness apparel and accessories brand from Asda, Looking to Leave between her and Boy George. The issue the Wal-Mart-owned supermarket chain, comes with a questionnaire, which will help plans to extend its trial of stand-alone stores determine the fate of any forthcoming in the U.K. Two more High Street locations issues. French Elle Girl will be the ninth Quotas in Place are due to open this May, in Northampton, edition published by Hachette Filipacchi the Midlands, and in Preston, northwest after American, English, German, Russian, Continued from page 2 England. “This is still a trial program and Quebecois, Dutch, Taiwanese and Korean to grow as domestic groups around the there are no plans for a huge rollout yet,” editions. — Emilie Marsh globe rally to the cause, according to Ziya said a spokeswoman for the company. “With Sukun, president of the Turkish group these new stores we really want to get a ITKIB Association, which is based in balanced geographical picture of how the HELPING HAND: France's Ready-to-Wear New York. The founders of the swelling coalition brand is performing in the U.K.” The Federation wants to foster young design. have called for an extension of apparel and Northampton store will be 7,500 square Last week it signed a pledge with Paris' city feet, while the Preston store will be 9,500 textile quotas through 2007, while the 15 hall to bring budding designers and African associations claim a phaseout date square feet. The Preston store will occupy struggling French factories together via an the site where a Gap store currently stands. of 2010 would be more realistic, “given Internet platform. The effort comes at a China’s reluctance to remove its unfair That’s a fitting twist as Andy Bond, the time when both young fashion creation and trade practices.” The 15 African groups managing director of George clothing brand, French fashion manufacturing are suffering represent 13 countries, including Kenya, has said that during the next five years sales from a weak domestic economy as well as South Africa, Lesotho, Mauritius, at George, which are approximately $1.64 the worldwide economic slowdown. — R.M. Botswana, Namibia and Madagascar. Sub- billion, could well overtake those of the Sahara Africa exports more than $1.4 bil- The cover of French Elle Girl $6.8 billion Gap brand. The George CHINA CLUB: To commemorate China’s lion in textiles and apparel to the U.S., and spokeswoman confirmed that the existing Professional Committee of Watches and history and culture in France, LVMH Moët jobs in those sectors support more than 1 George stores, which opened last September Jewelry. Overall, sales declined 3 percent in Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Louis Vuitton million Africans, according to the coalition. In addition to endorsing an emergency in Leeds and Croydon, were performing well, 2002. Still, certain product categories are sponsoring a major exhibition entitled WTO session, the African associations em- but added that Asda planned to wait a full improved last year. While watch sales fell 5 “Montagnes Celestes” at the Grand Palais year before assessing how well the trial was percent and sales of gold jewelry declined 4 phasized the need for the WTO to immedi- in Paris. Over 150 illustrations, paintings ately begin to address the various unfair working. — Samantha Conti percent, sales of silver and fantasy jewelry and artifacts created between the 12th and trade practices used by China, including jumped 9 percent. — Robert Murphy 19th centuries explore the cultural and GETTING TARNISHED: Jewelry and watch currency “manipulation,” state subsidies, spiritual attachments with the sacred illegal tax rebates and “the deliberate sales in France last year fell 4 percent to LITTLE MISS: French Elle is getting the teen mountains and rivers of China. The exhibit, propagation of non-performing loans by $6.3 billion, or 5.1 billion euros. It was the spirit. The magazine will launch a trial which runs from April 1 to June 30, will government-controlled banks.” second consecutive year of decline, edition of French Elle Girl today as a free display works shown for the first time The coalition is requesting an emer- according to a study last week by the supplement with the fashion weekly. The outside of China. — E.M. gency session at the WTO no later than July 1 to address the issue.

Production Assist $35-45K. Min 3 yrs cur- SALES MANAGER/to 100K+ SOHO STORE rent exp. in production liason w/ Wal Mart SAMPLEMAKER For mjr Accessory co’s "Hot" soft accounts. Follow-up, scheduling, etc. (Patternmaker & Draper also wanted) case div. (laptops, PDA’s, cells ph., MANAGER Excell proficient. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy Experienced in custom suits and &mediastorage cases etc). Req: Busy, SoHo based store seeks F/T, eveningwear. Call M-F 212-226-6066. Ability to be: a closer,team leader, experienced assistant manager. Must open new accts., work w/outside reps, possess excellent communication skills, based in NY office and have a steady & be highly organized and cope well PRODUCTION COORDINATOR proven sales track record (rel. expr.pref) Fast paced women’s dress and sports- SPEC TECH VP National Sales Manager under pressure. The position offers a Minimum 5 years experience. Must Expr. working w/Nat’l home electronics, stimulating work environment and the wear manufacturer seeks production drug chains, grocery, mass etc. coordinator with minimum 2 years be extremely accurate with first fit opportunity to grow with a thriving, through production. Patternmaking a Global lingerie company, launching upscale celebrity lingerie E-mail resume: [email protected] fashion forward business. import exp. Must be computer (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 literate. Fax resume to Lynn 212-302-2399 Plus. Please fax resume 201-333-6879. collection in U.S., seeks professional sales manager with Please fax resume to (212) 965-9494 minimum 5 yrs experience. Must have knowledge of intimate TECH DESIGNER (3) $$$$+ market, established retail relationships, strong leadership, SALESPEOPLE T.D. & Spec & Woven/Knits Leading LINGERIE / LOUNGEWEAR / Receptionist/Admin. Asst. FASHION NETWORK 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 sales & marketing skills. Also, excellent in negotiating, SCRUBS manufacturer. Looking for Established sportswear importer seeks salespeople with strong contacts to areceptionist / admin. assistant with communication, report analysis and problem solving. Travel expand current customer base and proficient computer skills and basic necessary. Interviews in NY Mar 22 & 23. Immediately attract new accounts. Candidates must accounts and inventory handling Tech Designer have proven track record of perform- knowledge. Please fax your resume fax resume and salary history to: (914) 738-7027. ance with minimum of 5 years sales ex- with contact details to: 212-730-0169. Assistant Tech Designer perience in same industry. We offer an Est’d., fast-paced Private Label Sportswear attractive financial package for right Co. seeks individual to assist in Technical ACCESSORIES EXECUTIVES persons. Please send resume to: Exciting New Line Design Dept. Responsible for organizing Key Sales Executive Fax: 212-679-4975, Attn: Dina or Seeking energetic and motivated Sales PACIFIC CONNECTIONS HANDBAGS & ACCESSORIES all fitting information, updating technical This is a rare opportunity for a key E-mail: [email protected] Professionals to help launch sensational sketches and general follow-up. Please A leader in the handbag and accessory new image apparel collection. Commission RECEPTIONIST market seeks sales executives to sell executive to join our very unique com- Large Childrenswear company seeks Fax or E-mail all resumes to: pany. If you are open-minded and will- only sales. All territories available. 718-937-5812 / [email protected] newly licensed products to the Junior, Non-competing lines okay. Reply to: well organized individual to manage Mid-tier and Dept. Stores. Must have ing to see the accessory market in a dif- the front desk and day to day adminis- ferent way, you could be for us. Look- SALES /Sr. Level ACCESSORIES/to 100k+ Box# C 5003 Tech Designer to $60K. Current exp. In experience and contacts in this Sr. Sales Exec needed for the Handbag c/o Fairchild Publications trative duties. Must have excellent market segment. This position offers ing for specialists in the following phone manner and desk appearance. knits. Tech packs, specing, sketching gar- areas: Sears, Penny’s, Kohl’s & Target. div of this mjr imp/manuf. of Accessories. 7 West 34th Street, 4th Flr. ments. Knowledge of Adobe Photoshop / Il- comprehensive benefits and excellent Your exp in mass mkt./specialty stores is New York, NY 10001 Showroom experience necessary. growth opportunities. Must have relationships with top man- Fax resume to 212-239-2766 lustrator. 1411 Bway. Call 973-564-9236. Agcy agement & now doing an on-going pref. You must have steady, long term Please fax resume to : 212-563-6112 exp w/a proven track record. Previous or email: [email protected] business. Upon reviewing your resume, REP A NEW LINE wewill, if interested, set up an appt to accessory expr a +. NYC based. Hot junior co. seeks West Coast rep for meet. We are a total handbag and E-mail resume to: [email protected] the Somethin’ Else from Skechers Technical Designer (Fax) 212-725-7116 (Tel) 212-481-1941 Immediate opening for private label DENIM SALES EXEC accessory company. denim apparel line. Please fax resume: RECEPTIONIST sportswear co. Must have 2 years expe- Hot junior denim line seeks Salesper- Fax resume to 212-631-0087 212-944-2055 Midtown apparel co. seeks a high ener- son with 5 years experience and rience, knowledge of construction, SHOWROOM SALES gy, self starter who is enthusiastic and specs, grading, patterns. Interface w/ cus- proven track record. Excellent compen- possesses superior communication & in- sation package for right person. Please NY Junior Bottoms mfr. seeks an exp’d SALES REP WANTED tomers tech departments &factories. SALES EXECUTIVE salesperson with Dept. & Specialty Established Embroidery & Trim Firm terpersonal skills. Competitive salary & Good organizational skills &proficient fax resume: 212-944-2055 Fast growing overseas sweater manu- good benefits. Fax resume 212-840-8738 facturer seeks sales executive. Min 3-5 stores to bring in new business. seeks Sales Rep in N.Y., Chicago, Miami, in Excel. Excellent benefits package. Please fax resume to (212) 921-7817 and Texas. Fax resume to: 213-623-6612 For consideration please fax resume yrs experience, good connections with including salary requirements. mass merchants & stores. NYC based. Attention George (212) 329-0856 Send resume: [email protected] RENE ROFE Technical Designer to $75K. Current Sales Manager $$ Open exp in bras required. Must hang w/ Home Textile Co, major acct/managerial LINGERIE Maiden Form, Playtex etc. Midtown Joy*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 The Best Place To Work co. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Fashion Agcy [email protected] On Madison Avenue Warehouse Manager $70-75K Current VP of Sales IMPORT DEPARTMENT exp. supervising 15-20 min for apparel Major established Company seeks Assistant Position warehouse. computerized systems sales professional with department proficiency req’d. NJ loc. Fast paced. store (Dillard’s, May, Federated) back- SENIOR EXECUTIVE Estb’d lingerie company seeks consci- $200 mil vol co. Call 973-564-9236 Agcy ground in kids. Must have account Well-connected in USA Majors & Accessory entious, detail-oriented team player to relationship, be results oriented and Industry. Built #1, most recognized, join our growing import team. have excellent communication and premier handbag/small leather goods Garment production/import experi- Warehouse to $50K organizational skills. Three years brand in USA & Asia. Increased volume ence & AS400 type system experience Bronx loc, pic pack Manager minimum experience required. from zero to $ half billion. References: a plus. Excellent benefits. Allen*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 Excellent salary and benefits. CEO’s, Pres., VP/GMM’s of Majors. Please fax resume to 646-935-2212 [email protected] Fax resume to 212-239-2766 NO RTW/Dresses. Call: (516) 510-7331 h-hilfiger.com © 2004 TOMMY HILFIGER LICENSING, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. TOMMY HILFIGER, H HILFIGER AND f ARE TRADEMARKS OF TOMMY HILFIGER LICENSING, INC.