FavoriteThe Paris CollectionsInside: Pg. 14 NRDC’S FASHION CEO/3 BEAUTY CHANGE AT CHANEL/9 WWD Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • October 25, 2007 • $2.00 WWDTHURSDAY List Sportswear

Puff Love Sometimes fashion is on cloud nine. During the recent collections, a number of designers channeled a dreamy fairy-tale vibe. Case in point: Zac Posen, whose silk chiffon gown was inspired by an actual cloud formation. For more frothy looks, see pages 6 and 7.

Happy Days Are Here Again: Wal-Mart’s Scott Sees Solid U.S. Gains By Katherine Bowers for holiday selling and to cope with long-term interest of shareholders. redicting that Wal-Mart a slowing economy. He forecast “continual PStores Inc.’s U.S. division has Scott defended the decision to improvement month-to-month turned a corner, president and focus resources on international over the next three to five years” chief executive officer H. Lee growth during a presentation to in the U.S., adding that he is more Scott said Wednesday the giant financial analysts in Rogers, Ark., confident about the company’s retailer is “properly positioned’’ arguing that it was in the best See Wal-Mart’s, Page 8 PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI GIOVANNI PHOTO BY WWD.COM WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear FASHION From fl uttery confections to fanciful gowns, designers fl aunted their ™ 6 romantic sides for spring in gentle, billowing shapes. A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated GENERAL Wal-Mart president and ceo H. Lee Scott said its U.S. stores will turn 1 around and are well positioned for holiday selling and a slower economy. SPRINGING INTO FALL Susan Davidson on Wednesday was named president and chief Fab Trench Styles and Fabrics Steer April Staple into Autumn 3 executive offi cer of Creative Design Studio. Even if it's not raining or pouring, and April that much-talked-about trend of color and print,” Investors on Wednesday walked away from shares of Talbots Inc. after it showers are half-a-year away, the trench coat is she states. “The cotton-type fabrics are great for 8 forecasted a second-half loss due to weaker fall sales results. on the streets and in the stores this season. Like a all climates until the weather finally gets cold. BEAT: Recent FIT grad Pailin Nitibhon has been chosen as the winner of monarch deferring its migration to Mexico, this Everyone understands and, more importantly, can 12 Cosmogirl magazine’s second annual “Born to Lead” Design Search. quintessentially spring piece has wear this trend.” Roberto Cavalli’s one-off collection for H&M, featuring steamy evening found new life in autumn. Jones New York offers trench 15 looks, will be previewed tonight in Rome’s Palazzo delle Fontane. “Trenches definitely sell beyond coats in all its brands. “In Jones spring now,” says Lord & Taylor’s New York, the offerings are a The House Ways and Means Committee passed a bill that expands a program aiding workers who lose their jobs because of foreign trade. LaVelle Olexa, senior vice- little dressier with elements of 16 president. “We are into October shine,” Metzger says. “Jones New China’s violations of intellectual property rights have worsened since the and we’re still selling trenches very York Signature is more color- 16 U.S. fi led complaints with the WTO, a U.S. offi cial said in Beijing. well. And spring ‘08 trenches will and-print-driven with a polished, start to come in for December.” casual feel.” EYE What’s more, the newest trench At Lord & Taylor, the top- If there was any confusion over who was being honored at the Whitney models have a look and feel that selling jackets include a Calvin 4 Gala, it was cleared up by the time they arrived at the museum. could carry them to the holiday Klein classic stone trench with Classifi ed Advertisements...... 19 season if the warmer weather back pleats, a DKNY brown prevails. Because in adopting this crinkle style, a Via Spiga khaki To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. trans-seasonality, the trench has short trench and a DKNY black [email protected], using the individual’s name. picked up some fun new takes along or khaki trench with seam detail WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT the way. Consumers are reaching for at the hem. ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. short models, swing styles, trenches “The trench is now a fashion VOLUME 194, NO. 88. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one with shimmer, as well as those item…” says Olexa, pointing additional issue in January, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October, November and December, and “Trenches definitely sell three additional issues in February, April, and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance done in autumn-friendly fabrics like out that many present details Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by corduroy and denim. beyond spring now.” like pleated hems, grommets, Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive — LaVelle Olexa, Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Pina Ferlisi, creative director at and metal accents, “…as well as Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Lord & Taylor a practical item to keep you out Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return Generra, says a trench coat is one of undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: those classic items that “always feels of the rain.” SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA relevant.” Monitor statistics show 35 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit “The seasonality of the trench has changed,” she percent of women purchased an item with water www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new declares. “I think a lot of that has to do with the repellency. And 94 percent would purchase an subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, warmer temperatures we have been experiencing item with this finish again. please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other going into the fall season. Dresses have also Even though the trench has a practical pedigree, Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. contributed to the trench trend – it’s so easy to layer a many of this season’s styles look anything but If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA great trench over a dress.” utilitarian. 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, A good many of this season’s trench coats are made The Macy’s floor features an abundance of BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED of cotton. Which is appropriate, considering 58 “rainwear” that would never be mistaken for MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR percent of all women say it is their favorite fabric slickers: corduroy and tartan trenches from Tommy CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY to wear, according to Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Hilfiger, a shimmer style from Calvin Klein Jeans. A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. MonitorTM. In today's warmer fall temperatures, And its INC International Concepts® label has breatheability in a everything from a jacket is sought out Have you purchased an item with the following sexy, satin jacket that by consumers. attributes in the past year? (Those answering "Yes") looks lifted from The cotton trench “Charlie’s Angels,” to In Brief coat’s designers are Wrinkle resistance 54% a black beltless piece bringing to market Water repellency 35% with a sequin-placket ● ST. JOHN LICENSES EYEWEAR: St. John said Wednesday that have very different Stain resistance/defender finish 33% emblazoned down it has signed a multiyear license agreement with Venice-based looks than the Been anti-microbial treated 8% the front. Visibilia SpA for production and worldwide distribution of a traditional “Carmen Generra’s updated sunglass and prescription eyewear collection, which will sell ex- Sandiego” or beltless style has the appeal of clusively in St. John boutiques for spring. The brand will launch styles. the traditional melding with the unexpected. globally for wholesale in May at the MID trade show in Milan. Ruffian designers Brian Wolk and Claude “An updated trench is what feels new right The frames will retail for $200 to $500. St. John is Visibilia’s fi rst Morais worked with denim for a casual luxe take now,” Ferlisi says. “My favorite of the season is the U.S. licensing partner. on the trench. Generra fog grey, double-breasted, three-quarter- ● CACHE NET DECLINES: Caché Inc. reported on Wednesday “For this particular piece we used a sky blue, sleeve trench in cotton. It’s very chic and casual a 77 percent drop in third-quarter earnings, impacted by in- raw unwashed denim for its architectural qualities, with great style. I love it worn with black elbow creased markdowns. For the three months ended Sept. 29, earn- and vintage Americana feeling. The combination length gloves and a striped scarf. It’s the sort of ings fell to $161,000, or 1 cent a diluted share, from $690,000, of a classic fabric like denim with a formal fabric thing you could see a young French art student or 4 cents, in the year prior. Sales for the quarter declined 61 like silk cotton creates an interesting juxtaposition wearing in Greenwich Village.” percent to $1.5 million from $4.1 million last year, while total between couture and sportswear.” Clearly, these newest styles aren't meant to be same-store sales increased 4 percent. Ruffian’s designers say they find working with saved for a rainy day. denim to be intriguing, “as it is the quintessential “Today’s trench coat has acquired multiple uses,” ● FALLING UP: Hennes & Mauritz reported sales in September American textile. We choose to apply our fine Olexa states. “Those in satin and crinkle fabrics improved 25 percent, a reversal of the disappointing sales trend in August, which H&M said was beset by adverse weather con- tailoring approach to this cloth and bring freshness often double as evening coats.” ditions. The Swedish fast-fashion giant said same-store sales in the form of construction and unexpected details. ” Adds Ferlisi, “For me, a cotton trench is in September gained 12 percent. In August, same-store sales Giving old styles new twists is just what the the height of American fashion – very cool and declined 1 percent. H&M is gearing up for the launch on Nov. 8 female shopper wants. In fact, most Monitor unpretentious.” of its latest designer collaboration, with Roberto Cavalli. respondents (66 percent) disagreed with the statement “current styles are boring.” And this This story is one in a series of articles based on find- ● EYEWEAR FIRMS MERGE: StyleMark, eyewear distributor season's trench coats are anything but dull. ings from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ and holding company for such brands as StyleScience, Riviera At Jones New York, the newest trench coats tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these and Polaroid Eyewear, has merged with Motive Eyewear, the are fashion items that can be interpreted for all pages, each story will focus on a specific topic as it holding company for Lantis Eyewear, Personal Optics and consumers, says Susan Metzger, vice-president relates to the American consumer and her attitudes Lantis Merchandising Services and Optimax in Canada. Motive and behavior regarding clothing, Eyewear is a leading eyewear distributor in North America, of sportswear. selling more than 30 million pairs of eyewear under 18 brands, “The classic trench has taken off with a variety of appearance, fashion, fiber selection and including Dockers, ESPN, Mudd, Hilary Duff and Kathy Van patterns – from animal to floral – and color adding many other timely, relevant subjects. Zeeland. Motive Eyewear will continue to maintain design of- fices in New York with distribution based in Anaheim, Calif. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2007 3 WWD.COM Creative Design Studio’s New CEO Talks Strategy By David Moin Hill and Grant Thomas labels. Susan Davidson sold at L&T, he added, implying the dis- According to Baker, it’s no longer ap- and Richard Baker tribution could be broadened. “THERE IS A TREMENDOUS AMOUNT propriate to regard these lines as propri- CDS has moved into a 109,000-square- of American design talent. The problem etary. They’re brands to be wholesaled foot fl oor in the Starrett-Lehigh Building is these designers don’t have the funding widely, he said. “CDS is a new company on Manhattan’s West Side overlooking the and support to become important,” said that stands on its own and has the free- Hudson River, where the company will Susan Davidson, who on Wednesday was dom to sell product anywhere. I’ve al- have showrooms for the brands that were named president and chief executive of- ready had appointments with two high- formerly in-house only at L&T and are now ficer of Creative Design Studio. end department stores to buy certain being reworked and upgraded for broader The announcement confirmed an product, but don’t underestimate the im- distribution. CDS is also staffi ng up, with Oct. 19 WWD report that NRDC Equity portance of specialty retailers as well,” product developers, stylists, merchants, Partners, parent of Lord & Taylor, was Baker said. designers and others, a team of about 80 forming CDS and would name Davidson as He added CDS brands will be sup- people. Existing staff from L&T’s propri- its head. She starts her new job Monday. ported by a battery of events, including etary brand program will be included. “I’m wildly excited,” Davidson said. launches. Baker said a long search was in- “This is a tremendous opportunity to The strategy is one that has been at- volved in fi nding a CDS ceo. Berglass and work with American talent. What most tempted before with mixed success. For Associates executive recruiting fi rm as- [young] designers need badly is funding example, Pegasus invested in Judith sisted CDS in the hunt. After attaining an and nurturing, and what we have is the Leiber and a few other well-known but M.B.A., Davidson entered the buyer train- outlet, Lord & Taylor, and the potential small-volume designers, including Daryl ing program at Bloomingdale’s, became a to sell to other retailers, which can give Kerrigan, and eventually folded. The de- merchandise manager at Henri Bendel, them the scale.” signer business, while glamorous and ex- served as president of Chaus and spent Davidson, along with Richard Baker, citing, is diffi cult to make profi table with 10-and-a-half years at Liz Claiborne, ceo of NRDC Equity and chairman of L&T, its high cost structure. most recently managing about $1.5 bil- PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY characterized CDS as a stand-alone com- But Baker said, “We know that we are lion worth of business as group president pany with a mission to invest in American on the right track. We understand well- Steffe next year becomes creative di- for denim and nonapparel. She was also designers and build them into brands with designed and well-manufactured prod- rector for the Context contemporary line, a former president of DKNY Jeans. fi nancial, strategic and infrastructure sup- uct that’s appropriately priced.” L&T’s formerly a private brand that is slated to Last week, NRDC Equity formed port. “CDS is in the business of investing Bryan by Bryan Bradley launch has been be wholesaled. Steffe will also create a NRDC Acquisition Corp., a special pur- in great design talent, most likely in the “highly successful” so far, “blowing out” collection under a new label. pose acquisition company, to purchase U.S., but who knows?” said Baker. He at the 19 doors that sell it, he said. “This On the men’s side, Joseph Abboud will one or more operating businesses. The did note however that, “Lord & Taylor [line] is something we might be able to create a new men’s wear label, replacing company completed its initial public of- has a special relationship and bond with get into other markets where Lord & the Grant Thomas private label. fering of 41.4 million units, including American designers. As we go forward, it Taylor is not located.” Kate Hill, Context and Bryan by Bryan 5.4 million units pursuant to the under- is important to be true to the DNA.” CDS designers include Peter Som, Bradley will now be operated by CDS, writers’ over-allotment option. The units Davidson will report to Baker. whose company is owned by NRDC, as which will sell these lines to L&T and were sold at an offering price of $10 each, The CDS strategy also entails trans- well as Bryan Bradley, Charles Nolan, other high-end retailers. generating gross proceeds of $414 mil- forming the existing proprietary brand Cynthia Steffe and Joseph Abboud. Each The CDS design stable, according to lion. That’s enough equity to purchase business at L&T into a full-scale op- designer has a different arrangement with Baker and Davidson, will cover the better a $1 billion to $2 billion company, Baker eration that orchestrates the retailer’s CDS. Som will continue to design his epon- to designer price spectrum. Since L&T’s said. Each unit consists of one share of design and product development, and ymous line as well as the Bill Blass collec- price range covers better, bridge and con- common stock and one warrant to pur- wholesales the merchandise to other tion, with no additional lines currently in temporary, some CDS products won’t be chase an additional share of common stores around the world. the works. Bradley will continue to design sold at the specialty store. For example, stock at $7.50. L&T’s proprietary brand volume is said Bryan by Bryan Bradley, which launched Som has no plans to sell at L&T. However, “We are really looking to add more to represent close to $200 million of L&T’s last month, and Nolan is recreating the Baker said the plan is to “nurture Peter designers to this stable,” said Davidson. $1.3 billion in annual volume. The propri- Kate Hill private bridge collection with Som to become a global brand.” Bryan by “The intent is to nurture and develop etary program includes the Context, Kate new product arriving in January. Bryan Bradley is “at the moment” only American talent.”

the malls was slow, and there wasn’t any reason for manag- ers to stay. Asked about the losses, she said, “It is going to be Fire Fury Calms, Industry Starts to Revive a week…in volume. Can you make up that volume? Probably not….But the good news is that it is only three days, and it is not the entire California market.” By Rachel Brown and Khanh T. L. Tran A charred home in Northern Karin Toranto, marketing director at San Diego-based Rancho Santa Fe, Calif. Charlotte Russe, made sure all of the employees were safe. erocious winds that stoked wildfires in Southern California “The offi ces are fi ne, and I believe all the stores are fi ne,” Fweakened Wednesday, generating hope that a semblance of she said. “I just looked at business for the last few days, and normal commerce would return after at least $1 billion in dam- it was really good. If some stores were closed, fortunately the ages and the evacuation of almost 1 million people. chain as a whole picked up.” Although some stores remained closed, especially in the Some San Diego-area shopping centers and stores ben- hardest-hit areas of San Diego County, retailers and manufac- efi ted from their location outside of the fi res’ paths. Megan turers began to return to work and assess losses on the fourth Capizzi, marketing coordinator at Seaport Village on San day of the fi re outbreak. Government offi cials and economic Diego’s waterfront, said tourists fl ocked to the more than 70 analysts warned the immediate costs of the fi res could rise, stores because they had nowhere else to go. “We bused people but were upbeat about the long-term economic outlook. in from a cruise ship, so we had pretty good traffi c,” she said. “Even though we are losing valuable assets, people will Apparel manufacturing in San Diego is heavily concentrat- want to replace them,” said Tom Larson, an economics profes- ed in the action sports sector. One of the largest action sports sor at California State University, Los Angeles. “As they replace companies in the area, Reef, which has more than 100 em- them, that will stimulate sales. In the San Diego area, that ployees in its Carlsbad, Calif., offi ces, was closed Wednesday, might mean people are buying clothes and routine things.” but said it would open today. Most companies started to oper- At least a dozen fi res scorched 666 square miles and de- ate on a limited basis Wednesday. stroyed more than 3,400 homes and businesses. Almost 9,000 Kevin Flanagan, Reef ’s vice president of marketing, who fi refi ghters continued to battle blazes in the San Diego area, was evacuated from his house in Rancho Santa Fe within two but forecasters were optimistic that the blustery, hot Santa miles of the fi re, said he didn’t anticipate the offi ce closure Ana winds would calm and increased humidity would ease would hurt sales because the company’s distribution center bone-dry conditions. is in Australia. President Bush, who plans to visit the area today, declared Kristy Kelly, marketing and promotions coordinator at the seven-county region a major disaster, which makes grants JetPilot, said she drove by several other action sports com- and low-cost loans available to victims. panies, including No Fear and Planet Earth, on her way to Ken Wong, president of U.S. operations at shopping cen- JetPilot’s offi ces in Vista and noticed that activity was re- ter owner The Westfi eld Group, said business recovered bounding. “It seemed like everyone is back,” she said. “Other well after previous fi res in San Diego. He toured three of than manpower, we [JetPilot] didn’t lose our building and Westfi eld’s seven shopping centers in the area Wednesday morning, all of which with our warehouse being up in Torrance, we didn’t lose materials.” had opened by late afternoon. In Malibu, where the fi re that charred 4,500 acres was 90 percent contained “The fundamentals for San Diego continue to be very, very positive,” Wong said. on Wednesday, a degree of normalcy returned. Cars were able to drive on Pacifi c “This will not change anyone’s view of the area. People are very resilient, and San Coast Highway and the Malibu Country Mart, home to James Perse, Planet Blue and Diego has been extremely well-organized and coordinated in their response to the Chrome Hearts, reopened after being shut since Sunday. Members of the fashion crisis. The area is going to more than bounce back.” and beauty industries, including BabaKul designer Kym Gold-Lubell, John Paul David Keating, director of corporate communications at General Growth Mitchell Systems co-founder John Paul DeJoria and Seven For All Mankind co- Properties, said the Chula Vista Center was open and the Otay Ranch Town Center founder Peter Koral, were safely in their homes. was reopening. Simon Property Group’s three malls near San Diego were open, as Unresolved was whether shoppers would return in force to Malibu-area stores. were Nordstrom’s four units. Wal-Mart shut one store, but that unit was up and run- Samantha Savoia, store manager at Chrome Hearts, said, “People could be want- ning again Wednesday. ing to spend money, but I have a feeling that is not going to be the case. There is so Sunglass retailer Solstice reported three of its Southern California stores stayed much destruction, so I think people’s priorities are to get their households together closed Wednesday. Jan Michel, vice president of stores in the region, said traffi c at fi rst and foremost.” PHOTO BY ROBERT MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY 4 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2007 WWD.COM

Olivier Theyksens Chuck Close with with Amber Valletta Meryl Streep in Akris. in Nina Ricci.

Grace Hightower in Donna Karan with Vanessa Getty in Robert De Niro. vintage Galanos. Close Encounters JessicaJessica StamStam If anyone suffered the least bit of confusion over who was being honored at this year’s Whitney Gala on Monday night, it was cleared up by the time they arrived in the museum’s fourth-fl oor galleries, where a giant, dramatically lit self-portrait of Chuck Close stared down upon the dinner tables. But the man of the hour was surprisingly nonplussed by all the attention. “I feel like a worm on a hook,” he said. Gala co-chair Meryl Streep was one of the few Close friends in attendance whose portrait wasn’t on display. “I did one of those,” Streep said, gesturing to a Close daguerreotype of Kate Moss. “But the lights he uses hurt my eyes too much. Not like Kate Moss — she’ll look at anything.” Meanwhile, conceptual artist Lawrence Weiner was on the hunt. “He just told me he’s a huge fan of ‘The Closer,’” said a surprised Kyra Sedgwick, also a gala co-chair, of her TV series. “I’ll defi nitely come see his show.” After dinner, some braver souls ventured to the museum’s packed lower fl oor for the Studio Party, where Jessica Stam, Margherita Missoni and a tardy Lauren Bush were subject to a sea of suited guys. As one guest put it, “This is like a kegger.” Not so the following afternoon, when Jennifer Creel, Jill Roosevelt and Blair Husain tucked into the Asprey boutique on Madison Avenue for a ladies lunch in honor of creative director Hakan Rosenius, while Lauren duPont and Sally Singer hosted a separate set of socials at Barneys New York for a quick bite to celebrate Isabel Toledo and Anne Klein. There, event designer Raul Avila’s rose hedge wall prompted Simon Doonan to spell out Anne Klein in buds on the fl oor. “Do you think it reads?” he fretted, before grabbing a stem and tangoing with Toledo. That evening, old-guard socials fi led into the City Center to kick off the American Ballet Theatre’s fall season. Robert De Niro snuck in with his wife Grace Hightower just as the curtain went up. Afterwards, guests including Muffi e Potter Aston, Susan Fales-Hill and Anne Grauso walked a few blocks north to the Mandarin Oriental for dinner, where Aston revealed the rather unlikely person who sparked her interest in the ballet — hubby Rashida Jones Sherrell. “I’m probably the only woman in this room who didn’t drag in an Alice Roi her husband kicking and screaming,” she said. top and Opening Meanwhile, in Beverly Hills, Olivier Theyskens hosted the Ceremony skirt. Couture Cares lunch at Kelly Wearstler’s house, benefi ting the Revlon/UCLA Breast Center and sponsored by Neiman Marcus. “I Thelma Golden in am always a little bit nervous when I present my work,” said Theyskens. But he had Tracy Reese with nothing to fear. His Nina Ricci spring collection was a big hit with co-chair Stephanie Jeff Koons. Murray and guests Rashida Jones, Jamie Tisch, Colleen Bell and Vanessa Getty. The designer proved just as popular. “He’s just so cute,” gushed co-chair Crystal Lourd. Kelly Wearstler in Nina Ricci.

Kyra Sedgwick in ▲ Oscar de la Renta.

Jamee Gregory in IsabelIsabel ToledoToledo andand Heather Mnuchin in Donna Karan Michael Kors. Simon Doonan with Mike Ovitz at the Whitney. WHITNEY AND ABT PARTY PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; TOLEDO/DOONAN BY TALAYA CENTENO; COUTURE CARES BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO CENTENO; COUTURE CARES BY TALAYA STEVE EICHNER; TOLEDO/DOONAN BY PHOTOS BY WHITNEY AND ABT PARTY

6 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2007

Junya Watanabe

Rodarte Roberto Cavalli Billow Designers pulled out all the stops on artsy, romantic looks for spring, with the most fl amboyant Talk numbers working a full and gentle silhouette. PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DAN LECCA AND DAVIDE MAESTRI GIANNONI, DAN LECCA AND DAVIDE GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI CENTENO, TALAYA PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2007 7 WWD.COM

Tao Comme des Garçons

Dolce & Gabbana Monique Lhuillier 8 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2007 WWD.COM Talbots Shares Tumble Wal-Mart’s Scott Says Company On 2nd-Half Forecast By Vicki M. Young the midseason sale broke, and Well-Positioned for Slow Economy when the midseason sales broke nvestors on Wednesday [at the] Talbots brand stores, we Continued from page one Iwalked away from shares of lost another $10 million in sales, management team and prospects than at last The Talbots Inc. after the retail- and from our original August year’s analyst meeting. er’s revised fall outlook, which plan for October we have lost He conceded that slowing sales and profit forecasts a second-half loss due $10 million in sales. So, in our growth in the U.S. division, Wal-Mart’s largest to weaker than anticipated quar- third quarter, we have lost $30 with $226 billion in revenue, made him “very con- ter to date sales results. million in sales. So we had to cerned about the second quarter — the merchan- On Tuesday, Coach Inc. fi gure it very hard looking at our dise and the quantities we had. I believe that warned investors that U.S. retail fourth quarter.” [second quarter] was the low point.’’ sales were slowing. Talbots said Consolidated fall season Wal-Mart made plan during the second quarter, quarterly sales results to date, comparable store sales will be but Scott said at the time he was disappointed in combined with an increasingly negative mid- to high-single the U.S. division’s results and cut the retailer’s conservative consumer spending digits, compared to its previ- full-year earnings per share projections to $3.05 to mind-set and a weaker industry ous plan announced in August $3.13, from $3.15 to $3.23. The move sent the stock outlook for holiday, means that of approximately fl at with the down fi ve percent. the retailer is operating against prior year period, according “Of all the things I’ve worried about in my a backdrop of an uncertain eco- to the company. It also expects seven years in this job, the fi rst half of this year nomic environment. total company sales for the fall was the most signifi cant concern I’ve had,’’ he Shares of Talbots fell 7.98 season will be approximately said. “We lived through that, we managed through percent to $14.07 in trading $65 million to $75 million below that — [chief merchant] John Fleming…and other Wednesday on the New York its prior August plan, resulting people you don’t know.” Stock Exchange. Trading vol- in the forecast of a fall season Amid the U.S. housing slump and a credit ume was 2.7 million. The stock’s loss for the six-month period crunch, Scott declared that “our low-cost, value 52-week high is $29.85, and the ending Feb. 2, 2008, the com- model should give us the advantage we have his- low was set today at $13.97. pany said. torically had” when consumer spending tightens. Trudy F. Sullivan, president Richard Jaffe, analyst at Analysts applauded after Scott concluded a 30- and chief executive offi cer, said Stifel Nicolaus, wrote in a re- minute question-and-answer session. on a conference call to Wall search note, “The midseason The $345 billion retailer has struggled with a Street analysts that Talbots sale is the core earnings and stagnant stock price, decreasing returns on the U.S. Of all the things I’ve worried is “anticipating a fall season sales driver for Talbots’ third business and operational missteps, as well as a core “ loss in the range of 25 cents to quarter, which precipitated customer under increasing fi nancial pressure. about in my seven years in 35 cents per share, which in- the large second-half earnings Scott said the strategy for apparel — volume cludes approximately 16 cents guidance decrease. We believe basics priced at $10 and less with limited fashion this job, the fi rst half of this exposure — is “stronger than it was 12 months ago when neither you nor we could fi gure out what the year was the most signifi cant Our total company direct business direction was.” “ Wal-Mart at one point had an elaborate psy- concern I’ve had. has been performing better but this chographic scheme that described customers as ” “Gracie” or “Gwen” depending on willingness to — H. Lee Scott, Wal-Mart Stores Inc. is not enough to offset the signifi cant adopt new trends, household income, age and other factors. nesses and toward squeezing waste out of its weakness in our October sales. Unlike electronics and other departments, mammoth operations. The company recycles six ” which have reported soaring same-store sales after million pounds of plastic trash per year, receiving — Trudy F. Sullivan, The Talbots Inc. remodels, the renovated apparel departments have credits back for the effort. not generated improved performances, Scott said, Even without a bank permit, Scott cited fi nan- per share of onetime expense that Talbots’ weak sales are the speculating that shoppers found the merchandise, cial services as an area where Wal-Mart is particu- related to executive compensa- result of (1) most importantly, rather than the layout, unappealing. larly well-suited. tion and professional consult- not getting the merchandise “We need to continue to invest to make that lay- “We’ve faced long odds getting into fi nancial ing fees.” right and not understanding out pay,” he said. services, but we think its an area that fi ts our The company recently said the Baby Boomer woman; (2) Scott responded to criticism from some ana- [business] model perfectly,” he said. “We can go in it hired a global consulting fi rm warmer weather slowing fall lysts on Tuesday of the decision to pay $875 mil- and lower costs dramatically and build scale.” to help it strategically review and winter merchandise buy- lion to acquire the rest of Seiyu, the Japanese sub- Wal-Mart now processes two to three million fi nan- its business from operations to ing; and (3) the uncertain eco- sidiary that has not turned a profi t since Wal-Mart cial transactions, such as money orders, each week. growth profi tability and distri- nomic environment.” acquired a stake in 2000. Earlier, Michael Duke, vice chairman and Wal- bution channels. For the third quarter, the “International was a little more controversial Mart International ceo, told analysts that the $77 Sullivan added that the re- company anticipates a loss per yesterday than I might have expected,” he said. billion division, which generated about 22 percent vised outlook compares with share in the range of 20 cents to “But the investments we have made historically of company revenue in 2006, will be treated as a the retailer’s prior forecast of 25 cents, which includes 7 cents are turning into value for our shareholders.…We major growth engine and receive corresponding fall season “earnings per share a share of onetime expense re- have always run this company for the long term fi nancial investments in the next several years. of 42 to 48 cents, which we an- lated to executive compensa- and we will continue to do so.” In comparison with the U.S. strategy, which nounced in August when we tion and professional consulting In a long-view assessment of the global econ- has focused on Supercenters and a unifi ed brand reported our second-quarter fees. It said that forecast pre- omy, Scott said: “We’re in period of diffi cult eco- approach, the international division focuses on results, and that included a one- sumes total company third-quar- nomic times in United States…and we tend to small stores and local brands, many of which were time compensation expense of 8 ter comps to be in the negative forget what’s going on in the rest of the world. acquired in the last decade. to 10 cents per share.” She said high-single-digit range, with the But when it comes to consumers worldwide, the Wal-Mart operates more than 30 different store then the company believed its Talbots brand down high-single population of people living in households with an formats worldwide. fall offerings for its Talbots and digits, and the J. Jill brand down annual income of $5,000 or more a year is going to “We are obsessed with the local customer,” J. Jill brands were stronger than midsingle digits. grow by 10 percent a year through 2015. So there Duke said. “The strength of Wal-Mart is we can be the spring-summer assortment. For the fourth quarter, are more consumers with more disposable income viewed as a local — and in many cases small, local However, the ceo explained Talbots expects a loss per share coming into market between now and 2015 than — company, but [revenue] adds up globally.” that September has proved to in the range of 5 cents to 10 ever before. And the markets in which that’s going Capital expenditures for Wal-Mart be a particularly diffi cult sales cents, including 9 cents a share to occur are many of the markets we are already International will rise to as much as $5.8 billion month for the Talbots brand. of onetime expense related to in operation: China, India and markets where we in 2009 from $3.5 billion last year. During the same “Our midseason sale events executive compensation and hope to be sometime in the future — Russia.” period, capital expenditures in the U.S. will stay that began in late September professional consulting fees. It Scott emphasized that sustainability initiatives fl at, at about $15 billion. [for the Talbots brand] were presumes total company fourth- have paid dividends for Wal-Mart in terms of op- “Wal-Mart International is in a period of un- very disappointing. However, quarter comps to be in the nega- erational effi ciency and in reputational benefi ts. locking shareholder value after our initial invest- the J. Jill brand negative sales tive midsingle-digit range, with Although the company has come under fi re for its ments,” Duke said, citing Wal-Mart Brazil and Wal- trends began to level off during Talbots down midsingle digits, employee wages and health benefi ts, among other Mart China as two countries beginning to produce the period as their midseason and J. Jill fl at to slightly up. issues, Scott said the improved reputation has al- fi nancially material returns. The countries gen- events for them proved stronger. Based on the current out- lowed him to do fewer speaking engagements and erating the best returns — Canada and Mexico — Our total company direct busi- look, the company also said that manage the business more actively. Some fi nancial plus China account for 80 percent of the planned ness has been performing better at the end of the third quarter, analysts questioned whether Scott’s role in put- square footage growth next year. but this is not enough to offset Talbots will be out of compli- ting out public relations fi res in the last several Wal-Mart de Mexico will open its fi rst bank, the signifi cant weakness in our ance with its acquisition loan years had hurt operations. Banco Wal-Mart, in November, which the retailer October sales,” she told Wall fi nancial covenants. However, “Eduardo’s [Castro-Wright, ceo of Wal-Mart sees as a major opportunity. Wal-Mart has made Street analysts. the specialty chain has initi- U.S.] offi ce is 30 feet away from mine and I don’t several unsuccessful attempts to get a permit to Edward Larsen, chief fi- ated the process to obtain an want to be a hindrance,” he said. “But I love know- open a U.S. bank to process fi nancial transactions. nancial officer, said the com- amendment to the fi nancial cov- ing how many copies of Transformers we sold and The company is expanding its ASDA Living pany “expected a pretty good enants and said it will provide asking why our market share was only 48 percent. format in the U.K., a 30,000-square-foot store with September, but we lost about an update on its progress no I just love that stuff.” home decor, apparel and other soft goods. It is $10 million of full-price sales later than Nov. 27, when it posts As Wal-Mart slows its store openings in the rolling out more Supercenters in Canada and will in Talbots brand stores before third-quarter results. U.S., the company is looking toward new busi- launch George Home in the market next year. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2007 9 WWD.COM Cosmetics Creators Depart Chanel

By Julie Naughton on all of the interesting things Dominique and Heidi also designed the makeup for the Chanel, Alexander were doing at Chanel,” she said. “Over the last few McQueen and Balmain spring rtw shows. n era is ending at Chanel: after nearly three decades years, we’ve worked very closely, and I feel very close “I believe confi dence is what makes a woman truly Aof helming the iconic brand’s makeup creation di- to both of them. They really took me under their wings beautiful,” said Philips in a statement. “And cosmetics vision together, Dominique Moncourtois and Heidi when I arrived.” are something that can make a woman feel special and Morawetz will retire on Jan. 1. They will be succeeded Two years ago, the pair decided it was time to step give that luxury of confi dence.” by Peter Philips. down, and a search for the next Chanel makeup cre- Philips’ fi rst makeup collection for Chanel will bow “This is an historic moment for us,” said Maureen ator started, said Chiquet. “They had both always been for fall 2008 and will be on counter in July. Chiquet, global chief executive offi cer of Chanel, in an exclusive interview Wednesday afternoon. “We feel very L’Oréal 3rd-Qtr. Sales Up 7% passionately about creativity at Chanel, PARIS — L’Oréal announced Wednesday and we give our creative people the that third-quarter sales were up by 7 per- reins, so choosing a new creative person cent year-on-year to 4.13 billion euros, or is not taken lightly for us. We’ve had the $5.67 billion at average exchange, for the most dynamic duo in makeup working three-month period. On a like-for-like basis, for us for the past 30 years, and we’ve sales grew 7.7 percent in the quarter. benefi ted greatly from their creativity That showing brought the French beauty and expertise. And now they’re passing company’s sales for the nine months ended the baton to a new generation.” Sept. 30 to 12.64 billion euros, or $16.99 bil- Moncourtois, international di- lion at average exchange, up 8.6 percent rector of makeup creation, joined versus the same period in 2006, or 7.7 per- Chanel in 1969 after working briefl y cent on a like-for-like basis. In a statement, as a cinematographer’s assistant and the fi rm said currency fl uctuations had a a professor of makeup at the Film negative impact of 3.2 percent in the nine- and Theater Academy. Hired by the month period. house’s namesake, Gabrielle “Coco” On the back of sales growth for the nine Chanel, he worked with her until her months, L’Oréal’s chief executive offi cer, death in 1971. In 1980, Moncourtois Jean-Paul Agon, confi rmed the company’s helped hire Morawetz as director of the like-for-like, full-year sales growth target of makeup creation studio. A graduate of between 7 and 8 percent. the School of Art and Design and the “We are confi rming our target of double- School of Fashion Design in Vienna, digit net earnings per share growth in 2007,” Morawetz had spent more than a decade he continued. working with leading photographers By division in the third quarter, sales such as Helmut Newton and Patrick of professional products increased 16.7 Demarchelier as a makeup artist. Dominique Moncourtois and Heidi Morawetz earlier in their career. percent to 615.9 million euros, or $846.4 million, boosted by the acquisition of PureOlogy in May; sales of consumer products grew 5.8 We’ve had the most dynamic percent to 2.01 billion euros, or $2.77 billion; sales of luxury products rose 3.5 percent to 938.8 million euros, duo“ in makeup working for us or $1.29 billion, while its active cosmetics division grew by 11 percent to 268.3 million euros, or $368.7 million. for the past 30 years, and we’ve On a like-for-like basis, sales were up 7.1 percent, 8 percent, 7.2 percent and 9.4 percent, respectively.

PHOTO BY KARL LAGERFELD PHOTO BY benefi ted greatly from their By region, L’Oréal reported “strong dynamism” in its “rest of the world” zone where sales grew 15.6 percent creativity and expertise. to 1.13 billion euros, or $1.56 billion. Western Europe ” increased sales by 3.7 percent to 1.68 billion euros, or — Maureen Chiquet, Chanel $2.31 billion, and North America showed a “gradual im- provement,” according to the company, with sales up 3.9 percent to 1.04 billion euros, or $1.43 billion. open about saying that they wanted to eventually pursue — Ellen Groves their own passions,” said Chiquet. “When they decided to retire, they both wanted to stay in place to ensure a smooth transition and to train the next generation of Ulta Begins Nasdaq Trading Chanel creators. And they’ve promised to be on call if NEW YORK — Beauty retailer Ulta Salon, Cosmetics & we need them.” Fragrance Inc. is slated to begin life as a public com- The Belgian-born Philips has done several projects pany at the opening bell of the Nasdaq Global Select with the house during the past few years, making him a Market today. natural choice to succeed Moncourtois and Morawetz, Ulta’s president and chief executive offi cer Lyn Kirby said Chiquet. His title will be creative director of cos- is scheduled to preside at the opening bell. metics when he starts in January. Earlier this week, Ulta raised the estimated price for “We’ve worked on several projects with Peter — he its initial public offering of about 8.5 million shares to a has worked with Karl [Lagerfeld, the house’s designer] range of $17 to $18 a share, up from its original forecast on several shows and he’s done sev- of $14 to $16 a share. eral makeup projects for us. In a Ulta expected to raise $121.2 way, this has been like a courtship million by selling about 7.7 million — we knew Heidi and Dominique BEAUTY BEAT shares, and to use the net proceeds wanted to leave and we were able to pay accumulated dividends in to see how well Peter understands Chanel and will live arrears and repay debt. The shares will trade under the Peter Philips and breathe the brand,” Chiquet said. symbol “ULTA.” In fact, Chiquet added, the work proved that “Peter The Romeoville, Ill.-based beauty retailer has built has displayed an ability to capture the very essence and a chain of about 211 stores across 26 states by planting During their tenure, Moncourtois and Morawetz spirit of the brand. His exceptional creativity, his sense its fl ag in suburban off-mall shopping centers. Unlike masterminded some of Chanel’s biggest cosmetics of perfection and his attention to the smallest detail its competitors — which include drugstores, department hits, including Vamp and Black Satin nail polishes and have all contributed to his worldwide recognition today. stores, specialty shops and electronic retailers — Ulta Rouge Allure lipstick. Even the pair’s Paris studio has His thoroughly modern approach will play a key role stores house a mix of more than 500 mass, salon and infl uenced Chanel counters: late last year, the compa- in his new position and his focus will be on style. He prestige beauty brands under one roof. ny used it as an inspiration when creating a store-in- will draw his inspiration from the timeless images of Its full-service salon component allows Ulta to stock store specialty store concept for its highest-end U.S. Chanel, while always looking toward the future. He has professional hair care brands, and its emphasis on ser- doors. Together, they initiated Chanel’s limited edi- an incredible ability to make women beautiful in both vice has attracted upmarket players, including Bare tion Star Products — fashion-forward color cosmetics overt and natural ways.” Escentuals, fragrances from Chanel and Estée Lauder compacts tied to what’s headed down Chanel’s runway Added Lagerfeld: “Peter Philips is not only an excel- and professional lines from L’Oréal. It also stocks its that season. lent makeup artist, he also has the ability to create the own private label beauty products. Moncourtois has often described himself as a techni- perfect complexion. I was fascinated by his art when I The store’s aim is to offer the service mass retailers cian, calling Morawetz the “aesthete.” worked with him for the fi rst time.” lack, and an alternative to the brand-dedicated, commis- “Dominique has always been on the forefront of Philips graduated from the fashion design program sion-based sales approach found in department stores. technology, both in textures and delivery systems,” said at Académie des Beaux Arts in Antwerp and became For the fi scal year ended Feb. 3, Ulta’s sales were $755.1 Chiquet. “And Heidi has an incredible eye for color. interested in makeup after assisting former students at million, up from $579.1 million in the prior year. Last Together, they’ve been unstoppable.” their Paris ready-to-wear shows. Over the last decade, year, it opened 31 new stores and is on track to open Chiquet, who joined Chanel four years ago after he has worked on a long list of runway shows, fashion about 50 this year, according to an IPO registration fi ling. spending 14 years at Gap Inc., added she always saw editorials and advertising campaigns, as well as with Over the next decade, the retailer said it believes that it Chanel makeup as “the gold standard.” photographers such as Irving Penn, Mario Testino, Peter has the potential to grow to a 1,000-plus-store chain. “While I was at the Gap, I was always keeping an eye Lindbergh, Craig McDean and Mario Sorrenti. Philips — Molly Prior 10 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2007 WWD.COM Denim Report Osment Tapped South Korea’s Bluenotch Looks to the U.S. For Vanilla Star VANILLA STAR IS GETTING SMART By Ross Tucker Looks from this holiday. Bluenotch The eight-year-old junior denim remium denim brands have Jeans. brand, based in New York, will launch its Plong been associated with “Smart Girls Rock” motto in an ad cam- Los Angeles, but a South Korean paign featuring Emily Osment, who plays husband-and-wife team are hop- Lilly Truscott on the hit Disney Channel ing their first label targeted at show “Hannah Montana.” The campaign, the U.S. and Europe will expand which is appearing on billboards, buses people’s horizons. and phone kiosks in New York and Los Jung-Ho Noh and his wife, Angeles, will run in December and Nara Chun, are looking to break January issues of Cosmogirl, Teen Vogue, into the American market this Tiger Beat and Twist magazines. spring with Bluenotch Jeans. “We want to be anti-Young Hollywood The line is manufactured using bad girls, which has been made so entic- Japanese denim and includes ing to young women,” said Mark Levy, men’s and women’s denim bot- partner and president of Vanilla Star. toms and jackets. Jun No, the “We want to showcase the fact that you brand’s managing director, said can still be beautiful and fashionable more than 70 styles were devel- while being intelligent.” oped to show potential custom- Levy said he chose 15-year-old Osment ers. However, after showing the to represent the brand because she is line in Paris last month and New “young, intelligent, positive and living her York last week, the line will be dream as a young actress who is a great winnowed down to a more man- role model for the millions of fans who ageable 30 styles, 23 of which are support her fi lms and television show.” women’s. In addition to the campaign, Vanilla Bluenotch places a heavy em- Star is launching the Live the Dream phasis on slim and skinny silhou- Scholarship Fund. The proceeds from ettes, which are the basis for all Smart Girls Rock and Live the Dream its other styles, said No. graphic T-shirts will go into a Vanilla Star “We’re focused on the skinny,” scholarship fund. The company plans to said No. “It makes your legs look give out fi ve $1,000 scholarships each longer than any other jeans, so year based on written or video essays we used the skinny to develop Their operations have expanded steadily since. The from customers on how they plan to live even our boot-cut and straight-cut jeans. Other brands focus company’s two manufacturing facilities produce four denim their dreams and achieve their goals. on a straight cut and develop from that their boot or skinny, brands under the Blue Blue, Blue Boy, Blue Wash and Never Vanilla Star jeans, which wholesale but we developed from skinny to straight and boot.” Mind labels, all of which sell throughout Asia. Earlier this from $10 to $18, are sold in department As a result, even Bluenotch’s boot-cut features a narrow year the company fi nished reopening a wash factory located and specialty stores nationwide includ- thigh and comparatively minimal fl are. For details, Noh and outside Seoul. According to the company, the wash house was ing Macy’s, J.C. Penney, Belk, Against All Chun turned to the world of body piercing. The front fi fth, or specifi cally located to take advantage of the area’s high water Odds and Wet Seal. Levy said he expects watch, pocket on several styles is adorned with a traditional quality, a result of the surrounding mountains and the area’s sales to reach about $78 million by the straight barbell piercing. Other styles feature smaller horse- natural springs. In order to preserve that quality, the compa- end of this year. shoe-shaped piercings dangling from the bottom of belt loops. ny said it has installed a fi ltration system that fi lters its waste — Julee Greenberg No said incorporating piercings into the design was meant to water four times before being released. No said he believes appeal to the lifestyle of Bluenotch’s target customer. it is the only wash facility in South Korea that is treating its “Many people these days have tattoos or piercings to water before reintroducing it to the environment. express their character, so we put that character into our Bluenotch denim will retail for between $180 and $220, jeans,” said No. with the company targeting distribution in higher-end bou- With the exception of sourcing its fabric from Japan, tiques. The company is targeting fi rst-year sales of approxi- Bluenotch is almost an entirely South Korean enterprise. mately $4 million at retail. Noh and Chun, who met in design school, have been in the “We’re trying to focus on quality and start building our denim business in the country since 1996, when they opened customers,” said No. “We’re working on the foundation of the Blue Blue Corp. brand.” Western Glove Moves PacSun Explores D.e.m.o. Options acific Sunwear of California Inc. said Wednesday that it is ex- Emily Beckham Production Pploring “strategic alternatives” for its D.e.m.o. stores, and that Osment it will close its One Thousand Steps stores. in the MONTREAL — The Made in Canada label will The Anaheim, Calif.-based teen chain said it made the decision new be stripped from Victoria Beckham’s high- after a comprehensive review and evaluation of the real estate Vanilla end denim collection as the production of portfolio and profi t performance of D.e.m.o. and One Thousand Star ad. her dVb line shifts to Asia next year because Steps. Pacifi c Sunwear said it plans to hire an investment bank- of a soaring Canadian dollar and a shortage er to advise on strategic alternatives for the D.e.m.o. stores, and of skilled labor. “close the One Thousand Steps stores as soon as is practical.” “There were actually two or three issues that “We believe the best way to enhance shareholder value at converged to force our hand,” said Bob Silver, this time is to focus management’s attention and capital on the president of Western Glove Works of Winnipeg, core PacSun business. Over the past two years, our D.e.m.o. team which produces the jeans that retail for $250 to has made many efforts to improve this business. However, as is $300. “In addition to the increase in the Canadian evidenced by our D.e.m.o. division comp-store sales, the urban dollar, there was a lack of support from subsup- streetwear business has been very challenging. At this time, the pliers and a lack of skilled workers. I somehow board has chosen to explore strategic alternatives for this divi- hoped I could avoid the move by paying extra for sion,’’ said Sally Frame Kasaks, chief executive offi cer of Pacifi c the product and being closer to the market.” Sunwear, in a statement. Instead, production will move to China, Hong PacSun currently operates 154 demo stores. Kong, the Philippines and Bangladesh, where She added that the company has “learned a great deal from Western Glove’s other lines, including Silver and our nine-store test” of One Thousand Steps, but that it has con- 1921, are manufactured. cluded that its “shareholders are unlikely to benefi t from the con- The lack of skilled workers was especially tinued operation of this division.” acute in the prewashing or stonewashing end The D.e.m.o. and One Thousand Steps stores together have of the business. Western Glove had a supply of generated a total pre-tax operating loss of $21 million during these skilled workers, but was recently forced the fi rst three quarters of fi scal 2007, excluding previously an- to lay off about two dozen of them. They even- nounced lease termination and asset impairment charges, the tually were offered their old jobs, but most de- company said. It is estimating a third-quarter noncash fi xed asset clined to return. impairment charge on D.e.m.o. stores of $48 million, as well as The Beckham line represents the last 5 per- inventory reserve charges for D.e.m.o. and One Thousand Steps cent of Western’s Canadian production and of $4 million. The third quarter ends Nov. 3. will result in the loss of another 100 jobs. Five The fi rm also said there may be additional future charges re- years ago, the company had 1,200 employees; lated to potential lease terminations and inventory and liquida- it will be down to 125 head-offi ce jobs when tion costs, the timing of which will depend on what course of ac- production ceases in March. tion is decided upon after a review of the strategic options. — Brian Dunn — Vicki M. Young bVWaWa\]bg]c`[]bVS`¸a NPUIFSIPPE TODAY’S MODERN MOM HAS REDEFINED MOTHERHOOD AND CREATED AN ENTIRELY NEW AND VIBRANT MARKETPLACE.

LIFE. STYLE. FAMILY.

TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THIS NEW GENERATION OF MOMS, contact Carolyn Kremins, VP/Publisher (212) 286-3833 or [email protected] 12 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2007 WWD.COM The Beat Wentz Falls Into Chicago Retail By Beth Wilson Overall, price points range from $20 for a Clandestine logo necklace to a $300 pair of limited The crowd on opening day. CHICAGO — Amid teams of screaming tweens and teens, edition purple and black Nikes. Clothing ranges from Fall Out Boy bassist and clothing designer Pete Wentz $30 T-shirts to a $95 turquoise, pink and yellow hood- unveiled his first Clandestine Industries storefront in ie with pictures of jets, diamond rings and yachts his hometown here on Saturday. with “Every Lil’ Thing Your Heart Desires” embroi- Wentz, who grew up in the North Shore suburb of dered on the hood. The guy’s version in royal blue Wilmette, said the Windy City was a natural choice for sold out, Cairns noted. the 450-square-foot store. The shop carries his line of unisex Shelves of T-shirts line the interior T-shirts and hoodies, limited of Clandestine Industries. edition Nike athletic shoes with Clandestine’s bat logo, as well as items reminiscent of Wentz’s youth, including Count Chocula and Franken Berry cereal fi gures, a Ms. Pac-Man arcade game and a minifridge fi lled with cans of Orange and Grape Crush. KAREN HOYT PHOTOS BY That’s because fans seem up with every idea,” he said, adding he occa- to want a piece of Wentz, be it sionally produces rough sketches, “and by his clothing or a can of Crush, rough sketch, I mean stick fi gures.” so much so that the rocker, who Wentz first started selling clothing is linked with singer Ashlee online under the name Clandestine Simpson, sets the trends for Industries in 2005. As sales doubled, both his male and female fans. discussion about opening a store “If he doesn’t wear an began. Although Wentz said he had item, it doesn’t do well,” said Pete opportunities to launch locations in Rebecca Cairns, director of Wentz Los Angeles and London, he chose operations for Clandestine Newport Avenue in Chicago’s Lake Industries, adding female fans View neighborhood where the store is don’t always want different col- just east of Clark Street, close to both ors or more feminine pieces. Wrigley Field and the popular concert “They didn’t want the girls’ version,” Cairns said. “They On this day, Wentz wore a venue Metro, often frequented by Wentz. want what Pete’s wearing. I know it sounds weird, but white T-shirt from his line with the “Drunken Cubs fans may not fi nd it,” he is setting the whole style trend on his own.” repetitive words “Live, Eat, Sleep, he said of the store, “but people going to the In turn, selections at the store include a white T-shirt Party, Die” forming the shirt’s overall Metro will.” with a butler drinking a martini with smaller, slimmer- pattern. “I don’t wear the brand all the time, No plans are in the works for future locations. cut styles for girls, retailing for $30, a similarly-sized and I don’t force the brand on my friends,” said Wentz, “We’re rolling out slow,” he said. “We don’t want to be- kelly green and white “Team Warhol” jersey for $35, and who claims he was a Nautica shirt-wearing nerd in come Planet Hollywood.” some limited edition shirts available only in-store, such high school. When asked if Wentz has plans to introduce a fra- as a kelly green T-shirt stating “They’re dropping like…” But now Wentz, who recently designed a collection grance, he joked, “We’re not quite there yet. We’re work- with a picture of a fl y on the back for $50. for DKNY Jeans, is serious about his fashion. “I come ing on getting my pheromones under control.”

Pailin Nitibhon presented her designs to the judges Contest Draws Out New Talent in the Necessary Objects showroom on May 3. By Julee Greenberg NEW YORK — Friday is a big day for Pailin Nitibhon. Nitibhon, a recent graduate of the Fashion Institute of Technology here, has been chosen as the winner of Cosmogirl’s second annual “Born to Lead” Design Search. As part of her winnings, she will display her fi rst junior sportswear collection at Macy’s Herald Square on Friday. For the contest, Cosmogirl teamed up with FIT to fi nd who they believe will be the next leader in fashion design. The contest was open to fashion and design seniors attending the school. “Out of 125 graduate students, there are 125 different stories

here, 125 different personalities CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY and everyone has their own story to tell through their art,” said Sass photographer; Gluck-Frankel, president and creative director of Necessary Objects; Brown, assistant professor of fash- Nicole Fischelis, vice president, fashion director for women’s at Macy’s East, and ion design-apparel at FIT. “The Russell Orlando, vice president, fashion director for juniors at Macy’s East, selected ‘Born to Lead’ Design Search pro- four fi nalists. The fi nalists were interviewed by the judges at the Necessary Objects vides students with an extraordi- showroom in May. Nitibhon, a native of Short Hills, N.J., won based on what the nary opportunity and I can’t think judges said was her talent and enthusiasm to become a fashion designer. She worked of anything that would make them with Gluck-Frankel over the summer to create her collection. work even harder.” “One thing that Ady taught me was to design what I like to wear, since the cus- Nitibhon was chosen as this tomer for Necessary Objects is really like me,” Nitibhon said. “In school, I often year’s winner and has won a found it easy to get lost in my research and kind of forget who my customer is and $10,000 grant from Macy’s and Nitibhon works on a fi tting with Necessary Objects some of my designs weren’t very realistic in the end. I know now how important it a partnership with Necessary designer Ady Gluck-Frankel. is to have the customer in mind through the whole design process.” Objects by Ady Gluck-Frankel to produce a holiday apparel collection. The col- The result is a line of holiday party dresses, cropped jackets, pants and skirts. lection will be sold in about 20 Macy’s East doors with the rest of the Necessary All together, Gluck-Frankel said they will ship 1,800 pieces from Nitibhon’s line to Objects merchandise, but Nitibhon’s pieces will be labeled “Pailin Nitibhon for Macy’s East stores. Necessary Objects.” Additionally, Nitibhon will be recognized with a feature in “This is really a great fi rst break into the business,” said Dena Stokes, vice presi- Cosmogirl’s December “Born to Lead” issue. dent, general merchandise manager for juniors at Macy’s East. “Many vendors work To help narrow down the contenders, FIT chose a select group of graduate stu- for years to get just a sliver of fl oor space, but we feel this is a great way to support dents to take part in the search, which fell into four categories: sportswear, tailoring, new talent and offer something fresh in the junior department.” current scene and knitwear. A panel of judges, which included Jacqueline Azria- In September, Nitibhon accepted a job at Anthropologie as an assistant designer. Palombo, creative director at Cosmogirl; Oscar Blandi, hairstylist; Torkil Gudnason, She now lives in Philadelphia, where the retailer is based. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2007 13 WWD.COM

in place.) The magazine’s spokeswoman denied there was any such plan in the works. — Irin Carmon

MEMO PAD NEW MODEL: Former Creative Artists Agency agent Kevin Iwashina is bringing Hollywood to the OUT OF THE WEB: The managing editor of Portfolio. model business. Iwashina, who was in charge of com, Chris Jones, revealed his departure to staff on fi nancing and distribution for the Academy Award- Wednesday, a sign that Portfolio’s personnel woes winning movie “Crash,” has joined forces with a aren’t limited to print. Jones, who gave notice to group of private investors to acquire the men’s editor in chief Joanne Lipman a month ago, had told division of IMG Models. The new agency, Public friends he was unhappy. Edward Felsenthal, formerly Image Worldwide, will be run by former IMG Men’s a deputy managing editor of The Wall Street Journal, director Chris Forberg and approximately 95 percent was brought in to consult, including on the Web of IMG’s male clients are expected to join the site, though Lipman wrote WWD in an e-mail late new agency. The current roster of clients includes Wednesday that “Chris made his decision long before Tyson Ballou, Clement Chabernaud, Clint Mauro, Edward arrived, and there’s no connection between Albert Reed, RJ, Jason Shaw and Aaron Ward. “We the two events.” Jones also reportedly clashed with will transition out of IMG over the next 30 days,” Lipman about hiring choices, according to three Iwashina said. He also plans to add endorsements sources close to the magazine, though he did win and licensing to the business, and eventually, battles on hiring former Daily News gossip columnist female models. — Amy Wicks Lloyd Grove and former Radar and WWD reporter Jeff Bercovici. Lipman denied this. BIG BASH: The last time Alpha Media Group Relations also were strained with his staff, assembled at the Cellar Bar in the Bryant Park according to three sources. Jones, who has agreed Hotel, it was to toast its new ownership for to stay on through the end of next month as a the fi rst time as a company. But while staffers consultant, did not return calls for comment. Mark mingled that late August afternoon, Maxim Stein, the senior news editor of the Web site, will be editor in chief Jimmy Jellinek was told he would interim deputy editor until a replacement is found. A no longer helm the magazine. The party held spokeswoman for the magazine said Web traffi c has Tuesday night had a much happier vibe — Alpha met or exceeded expectations, and provided fi gures chief executive offi cer Kent Brownridge gathered showing a growth of monthly unique visitors from the Maxim staff together to celebrate the largest around 300,000 in the spring to just over a million issue of the magazine in fi ve years. The December estimated in October. issue closed with 137 ad pages, thanks to 11 new Still, more changes may be afoot: high-level advertisers. Meanwhile, Blender may be getting discussion is said to be under way about divesting a new look soon — the magazine hired creative Lipman of oversight of the Web site, with a possible new director Dirk Barnett, formerly of the New York reporting structure to Portfolio.com’s general manager, Times’ Key and Play magazines. Barnett replaces Ari Brandt, on the business side. (Like Jones, Brandt Andy Turnbull, who will leave the company at the came from Yahoo!, where such reporting structures are end of next month. — Stephanie D. Smith

Trovata Files Suit Against Forever 21 By Liza Casabona label it puts in its genuine garments verbatim. The labels read, “If you want this thing to last, I would rovata has thrown its hat into the ring against suggest to machine wash with similar colors cold, TForever 21. do not use chlorine bleach, tumble dry low. Iron if The apparel fi rm joins a long list of companies needed. I know you already know all this. – Sam.” who have fi led complaints against Forever 21 for According to Trovata, Sam is one of the company intellectual property violations. The list includes founders. The lawsuit alleged that a copy of the Gwen Stefani’s Harajuku Lovers, Diane von “grammatically quirky care instructions” ap- Furstenberg Studio, Anna Sui, Carole Hochman peared verbatim, with the same embellishments Design Group, Anthropologie and Bebe. on Forever 21 merchandise. Trovata fi led its trade dress infringement law- Trovata alleged that Forever 21 deliberately cop- suit against Forever 21 in Los Angeles federal ied the trade dress of its merchandise and labels as court on Oct. 9, but the documents were only re- part of an effort to take advantage of its reputation cently obtained by WWD. Trovata alleged that and damage the company. The complaint included Forever 21 systematically copied its designs, fab- allegations of trade dress infringement, false des- ric patterns, prints and label designs. Trovata ignation of origin, false advertising, dilution and named at least six specifi c trade dress violations unfair competition. Trovata asked the court for pre- of its intellectual property in legal documents. liminary and permanent injunctions, damages and Forever 21 could not be reached for comment trial costs. The lawsuit also demanded that Forever by press time. 21 pay for corrective advertising in any publication Trovata alleged that Forever 21 copied the where infringing items were advertised. Pepsi Pops Into Women’s Apparel epsi-Cola North America is ready to take the boldly, with graphic T-shirts. Papparel challenge. Loria declined to project sales volume of the The beverage brand is launching the Pepsi women’s collection — which was unveiled at Clothing women’s line for spring, following a fall MAGIC — but predicted it could be bigger than 2006 men’s launch. The women’s line will add a ju- men’s, because of more product category options. niors bent to the urban angle of the men’s collec- Both the women’s and men’s lines are designed by tion, which capitalizes on Pepsi’s music ties and is Christopher “MC Handz” Rogers. The men’s line sold exclusively in urban specialty stores. is already in 200 doors, and Loria thinks women’s “This line is not about consuming Pepsi — it’s could be in up to 1,000 within a year, capitalizing about Pepsi as a pop culture icon,” said Joanne on many of the men’s stores while adding junior Loria, executive vice president of the Joester specialty stores and department stores. It’s also Loria Group, Pepsi’s licensing agency. “With 100 sold at pepsistyle.com. years of history, Pepsi has an archive base of her- The Assis Group is supporting the launch with itage art, ad images and slogans to work with to national promotions and events in its eight New meet a wide variety of trends, whether urban or York-area stores. Pepsi also is marketing the ap- retro is ‘in’ at a particular point.” parel through promotional initiatives like the The women’s lineup includes active wear, Pepsi Smash Mary J. Blige concert promotion, denim, tops and outerwear, wholesaling from which featured a Pepsi clothing fashion show, about $12 to $50. and MTV “Webisodes” of a fashion reality show A decade ago, Pepsi created Pepsi Stuff, a called “Fashion: The Life,” which follows three line of T-shirts, hats, sweatshirts, jackets and young designers and their lines — including the other items, promoted with TV commercials Pepsi collection. featuring Cindy Crawford and Shaquille O’Neal. “We believe in viral marketing,” Loria said. But Loria called this line the fi rst real “fash- “This is not a line that will be advertised in style ion collection,” which utilizes Pepsi archive magazines, but could be photographed on a star graphics both subtly, like denim with graphic and featured in that magazine.” elements on the back pockets or on piping, and — Whitney Beckett 14 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2007 WWD.COM Deeming the spring collections “optimistic, colorful — and tempered with a modern edge,” buyers praised a strong fashion week in the City of Light, TheWWDList “headlined by blockbuster shows from Lanvin, Balenciaga, Dries Van Noten and Nina Ricci,” said WWD. In addition, retailers applauded the blend of inventiveness and commerciality from Stella McCartney, Rick Owens, Miu Miu and Alexander McQueen. In the ranking of Style.com’s most-viewed Paris collections, Chanel retained its number-one standing from last season, John Galliano moved up fi ve spots to number 8 and Miu Miu jumped seven spots to It Happened in Paris number 9. New to the list this season: Stella McCartney, at number 13, Sonia Rykiel, 17th, and Christian Lacroix, 19th. Page views for the top 20 shows in The most-viewed 2008 Paris spring collections on Style.com. the fi rst 12 days totaled 32.9 million. — Cecily Hall

CHANEL YVES SAINT LAURENT Page views: 2,940,480 Page views: 1,554,965 “Welcome to Chanel, lifestyle brand to the rich and Stefano Pilati showed a spring full of shapely and fabulous,” WWD proclaimed. Karl Lagerfeld opened languid dresses and smartly tailored jackets and pants, with a lineup of swimsuits, which he mixed and but the looks that featured the hyperarchitectural 1 matched with oodles of denim. He sent out knee-length 11 shoulders will be tough to pull off for YSL’s ladies. shorts, girlish jumpers, chic dresses and relaxed Details were impressive in the jackets that carried the tweeds. Evening contained graceful black dresses. YSL logo, which was designed in 1963. LOUIS VUITTON HERMES Page views: 2,631,281 Page views: 1,224,180 Showing under an enormous tent pitched in the Cour Jean Paul Gaultier took Hermès on a passage to India, Carrée du Louvre, Marc Jacobs sent out a lineup of “mix- showing shimmery copper knits, silk safari styles and and-match, pile-it-on, see-through-it elements…” said embroidered tunics. He featured classic prints on 2 WWD. Bags were a collaboration with Richard Prince, 12 the house’s signature scarves. “And it wouldn’t be an many of which were printed with Prince’s interpretations Hermès India without a full lineup of turbaned, Birkin- of the Vuitton logo — washed, faded or painted over. and Kelly-toting beauties,” added WWD. ALEXANDER MCQUEEN STELLA MCCARTNEY Page views: 2,442,778 Page views: 1,216,450 Choosing to celebrate the life of fashion editor Isabella It was Stella McCartney’s best collection to date, Blow, McQueen focused on high, dramatic glamour. said WWD, in which she featured plenty of feminine, Looks featured major shoulders, trussed waists, delicate looks. She showed fl amboyant fl orals, but in 3 theatrical construction and a remarkable lineup of hats 13 earthy and muted tones. Her dresses were airy and full by Philip Treacy. At the end, he and Treacy, who were of ruffl es, and her washed silks were beautiful in indigo both mentored by Blow, took a bow together. blue. Safari prints and cocktail dresses were standouts. LANVIN DRIES VAN NOTEN Page views: 2,328,456 Page views: 1,073,141 Alber Elbaz is defi nitely connecting with his audience Dries Van Noten likes a good challenge. For spring, these days. Everything he showed for spring was he wanted to push the envelope with patterns galore inventive, yet wearable — he sent out no-seam dresses — many were fl oral, romantic and moody, but their 4 and fl yaway trenchcoats, and brightened up the 14 graphic placement on the clothing was edgy. Van Noten collection with jewel-toned cocktail dresses. Elbaz went sent out trenches, tops, shorts and all kinds of dresses, big for evening with high-impact, ruffl e-edged dresses. some knotted in front or falling to a V and tied in back. VALENTINO JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Page views: 2,220,334 Page views: 1,051,466 It was a savvy spring for Valentino, his last ready-to- “The Pirates of the Caribbean” trilogy was in full force wear show before he retires next year. “The Chic,” as on Jean Paul Gaultier’s runway — his gals carried real 5 WWD dubbed him, worked with some of his favorite smoking pipes and toted umbrellas with pistol handles. themes of the last 45 years, such as his signature 15 And the clothes: Irish lace dresses; sharply tailored Valentino red, white, polkadots, ruffl es and suitings. jackets, and nautical stripes on lace-up shirts and chiffon Evening was also a hit with his shirred, draped gowns. skirts. And then, a band of brides in crocheted dresses. BALENCIAGA GIVENCHY Page views: 2,193,980 Page views: 940,425 Nicolas Ghesquière worked with mainly short dresses Riccardo Tisci sought to blur the lines between hard and that molded into immovable curves, which included soft for spring, playing notions of gentle femininity against amplifi ed, poufy shoulders and an abundance of wildly the tough and masculine. He sent out languid baby-doll 6 colorful fl orals — water lilies, anemones, daffodils, you 16 dresses, sharply tailored jackets, asymmetric blouses and name it. Variations included an exaggerated hourglass look, sometimes with demonstrative seaming. skirts which featured knife pleats arranged in stiff ruffl es. CHRISTIAN DIOR SONIA RYKIEL Page views: 2,162,425 Page views: 929,954 Following his extraordinary work surrounding Dior’s “It’s hard not to get caught up in the high-energy, 60th anniversary celebration, John Galliano showed a giddy spirit of a Sonia Rykiel show,” mused WWD. spring collection that “featured a scaled-back variation Her models, adorned in cheeky knits and airy goddess 7 on last season’s divine retro,” said WWD. Galliano sent 17 gowns, came fl ying down the catwalk, high-fi ving out dresses and suits with a Thirties-Forties vibe, a one another or skipping and twirling. Swimwear and Fifties cocktail number and wild-kingdom lingerie. accessories were plentiful and charming. JOHN GALLIANO VIKTOR & ROLF Page views: 2,090,224 Page views: 928,596 Choice of venue (a soccer stadium complex) aside, Galliano It was all about the clothes and not the concept for Viktor was “at his fanciful best” with his own collection, said Horsting and Rolf Snoeren this season. They worked WWD. He sent out looks from the early 1900s, including with plenty of white, like with a drawstring dress, a 8 a pink jacket with tiered sleeves, sexy librarian sweaters, 18 shift, a stiff coat and a four-tier trench. Evening gowns dresses full of ruffl es and tiers, along with Forties-inspired were vibrant — and fabulously embellished. It all made black suits — he even offered a sampling of swimsuits. for a beautifully wistful collection, according to WWD. MIU MIU CHRISTIAN LACROIX Page views: 1,595,216 Page views: 924,520 “It’s all representations of life mixed with the idea of Christian Lacroix struck a nice balance of low-key- theater,” said Miuccia Prada of the Miu Miu collection. meets-exuberance, with his pencil skirts and sedate She emulated the Playboy bunny, with her sheer, belted tops, versus his vibrant prints and diaphanous 9 button-on cuffs and collars and busty tops, the French 19 gowns. He even threw in some glam-gal swimwear, maid in white bibbed blouses and Lolita, with her white some detailed with faux pythons, others with African baby dolls and teetering stilettos. beading. His lineup of little black dresses were terrifi c. CHLOE VIVIENNE WESTWOOD Page views: 1,564,634 Page views: 844,349 Having listened to his critics from last season, Paulo Vivienne Westwood showed subtle variations on past Melim Andersson presented a much lighter, more creations, which included a fair share of her signature charming and gentle collection for spring. He lost the disheveled dresses, high-waisted pants and bias-cut 10 ruffl es of the past and instead worked with cuts, seams 20 assembled evening offerings. Some newer elements and inventive asymmetrics. The designer also showed included her short sequined dress and pink gym shorts tailored looks, jumpers, skirts and lengthy, cozy cardigans. paired with a bustier. PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, DOMINIQUE MAITRE, DELPHINE ACHARD GIOVANNI AND STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTOS BY SOURCE: STYLE.COM WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2007 15 WWD.COM Cavalli’s H&M Looks Not Short on Glamour By Alessandra Ilari Roberto Cavalli looks for H&M. “Our challenge was how to continue making the clothes mass market with the same fi t, quality and MILAN — Whether a customer will be teetering sexiness that normally characterizes Cavalli,” said down a red carpet is beside the point — what mat- Andersson. ters is helping her make a diva-like appearance The lineup for evening offers white tuxedos without breaking the bank. with black lapels; a bronze-gold swooshing halter That’s the concept Roberto Cavalli applied to gown; a short cocktail dress showered with pai- the collection he has designed for Swedish fast- lettes, and a slew of silk or cotton shirts with high fashion giant Hennes and Mauritz as part of the collars, ruffl es and ribbons. There also is matching retailer’s ongoing one-off designer projects. The innerwear, fl ashy costume jewelry and maculated collection, centered around steamy evening looks, or gold sandals. will be previewed tonight at a Dolce Vita-style ex- Daywear includes a fake fur jacket with a stud- travaganza in Rome’s Palazzo delle Fontane, which ded leather border that caps skinny jeans with gold is expected to attract celebrities such as Sharon stitching, a quilted black coat, leather jackets and Stone, Halle Berry, Emily Blunt, Mira Sorvino and miniskirts. The four variations on Cavalli’s all-time Michael Bublé. favorite — animal spots — come in autumnal col- The Cavalli collection will hit some 200 H&M ors, but blur the day-night line. stores worldwide on Nov. 8. “We feel this line also caters to a southern “The focus was on the eveningwear for the holi- European customer, which is actually very good day season, though I secretly hope it will sell out since we are expanding in Italy, Spain and Greece,” much before Christmas,” chuckled Cavalli in an said Andersson. exclusive interview. Margareta van den Bosch, H&M’s head of de- For inspiration, Cavalli dipped into his archives sign, painted a similar picture. from the past decade but rendered the garments “Cavalli has a great team and I think that the col- more modern and young via clean shapes and soft lection offers many fl attering party options that are fabrics. Seductive, glamorous and festive, the 40- also wearable and target a wide age range,” she said. piece collection of men’s and women’s looks is “This has a very Italian theme and is different from fi lled with the designer’s staples — animal prints, anything else.” swooshing silks, Lurex, ink-blue denim, faux fur Cavalli said he felt fl attered to be the fi rst and metallic accents. Italian tapped by H&M. “Working with H&M was Undeterred by the need to stick to H&M’s pric- a constructive experience. I learned a lot about es, Cavalli and his team focused on quality, fi t and the well-oiled machine they run,” said Cavalli. workmanship. Proving the point is the intricacy Andersson added that H&M approached Cavalli of the embroidery, or the knife pleating on a full- to also tap into his world. “Roberto and his wife Eva skirted gown. live and represent the brand. They enjoy what they Prices go from $59 for a Mandarin-collared shirt do and embrace life,” said Andersson. to $68 for jeans to $198 for a silk chiffon gown. To that end, the Cavallis opened up their wildly Cavalli’s collection for H&M follows similar decorated and eclectic Tuscan estate, which be- one-off lines by Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney, came the backdrop for the it’s-time-to-party themed Viktor & Rolf and Madonna, the latter of which has print ad campaign shot by Terry Richardson and since become a permanent collection in the store. the video directed by Johan Renck that will air for “Since we started working with Karl, the na- a week starting Nov. 1. ture of the collaborations hasn’t changed because we still want to prove that fash- Hanging out with the Cavalli clan also gave van den Bosch an opportunity to ion shouldn’t cost a fortune and can be more democratic,” said Jörgen Andersson, brush up her Italian, which she picked up during her 12 years in Milan. “It was H&M’s marketing director. “But we didn’t want our customer to be bored. great to enjoy the family’s conviviality. It was a wonderful atmosphere.”

MORE STARS: The guest list for tonight’s Fashion Group Fashion Scoops International Night of Stars gala has been fi nalized, and there have been a few notable additions. The night’s Superstar honoree, Jean Paul Gaultier, is bringing Lauren Bacall to the event; Humanitarian award recipient Josie Natori has nabbed Mayor Michael Bloomberg for her table, and Jane Krakowski will take the night in with In Style magazine. Tilda Swinton, meanwhile, will present Alber Elbaz with his award. She joins Jennifer Hudson and Kerry Washington, who are presenting awards to André Leon Talley and Gaultier, respectively.

BRITISH INVASION: After traveling to Dallas and Boston to meet customers, London designer Jonathan Saunders made his way to New York for a dinner in his honor, hosted by Bergdorf Goodman’s Linda Fargo and Roopal Patel Tuesday, and a trunk show at the specialty store Wednesday. The dinner, on the second fl oor of The Inn at Little West 12th, had an intimate feel. Arden Wohl, Annie Churchill, Tina Chai, Amanda Ross Karin and Stephen I. Sadove with Vera Wang. and Euan Rellie came out to salute the Glasgow designer, who is mulling a move from London to New York for fashion week next season. “It’s kind of a Scottish edge with an English pop,” said Saunders of the Inn’s dark interior decorated with dozens of small framed paintings on the wall. “I like it.” Sadove Honored at Hazelden Fund-raiser NEW YORK — “I’m really overwhelmed to see so many READING MATERIAL: Rapper and now seasoned author 50 Cent friends and colleagues from so many parts of my life,” couldn’t hold back his eagerness to share his new book, “50 x Stephen I. Sadove, Saks Fifth Avenue’s chairman and 50,” published by Simon & Schuster. “This is a really special chief executive, told the sold-out crowd at the Pierre Hotel one for me since this one is a scrapbook of my life,” he said Tuesday for the record-breaking $1.2 million fund-raiser to fl ipping through the pages at a dinner at Philippe Chow’s new support Hazelden, a national nonprofit organization devoted restaurant in New York, called Philippe. “It’s fun to look at to helping people recover from drug and alcohol addiction. these old photos of me when I was little and it’s something Sadove was honored at the event with The William D. I want to share with my son.” The book, which went on sale Hassett Distinguished Leadership Award. Tuesday, is the second of what could be many for the rapper, Among those in the crowd of 700 plus were former Federal who said he has interest in writing something on urban Reserve chairman Paul Volcker, and from the fashion indus- Saks’ Ron fashion. “Hip-hop fashion is going through so many changes try, Rose Marie Bravo, Brad Martin, Vera Wang, Eugenia Frasch. and it’s really interesting to me,” he said. “It’s taking cues Ulasewicz, David and Sybil Yurman, Jay Strongwater, Peter

PHOTO BY CHRISTIAN RATTAN PHOTO BY from rock ’n’ roll and European fashion design. The future Som, Josie Natori, Diane Levbarg, Haresh Tharani, John 50 Cent at Philippe. of hip-hop fashion is going to be good and I would love to Pomerantz, and Abbey and Valerie Doneger. someday do something about it.” Judy Collins spoke of her own battle with alcohol abuse, her father’s, and of her son, who committed suicide as a OUT TO DRIES: After 14 years as head of communications at Maison Martin direct result of addiction. She sang “Both Sides Now” and Margiela, Patrick Scallon is moving on and joining Dries Van Noten in a strategic “Send in the Clowns,” and got the crowd singing “Cat’s in communications post. Scallon will be based between Paris and Antwerp, Belgium, the Cradle.” Bill Moyers, the emcee, read excerpts from his where Van Noten’s business is headquartered. Scallon’s fi rst mission will be Nov. 5, son’s autobiographical book “Broken” that recounted his when he fl ies with Van Noten to Singapore for a fashion show sponsored by Club 21. struggle with addiction and how Hazelden helped. “I would be dead without that experience,” his son wrote. ROCK STAR STYLE: With the proliferation of party invites, dress codes have become “I was stunned by how many people came up to me and told increasingly creative, and increasingly vague. “Festive” has always been confusing me they had a child in Hazelden or they had their own addic- enough, but guests attending the fourth annual Black Ball at the Hammerstein Ballroom tion issues,” said Sadove, who has been supporting Hazelden tonight have been asked to “dress for Bono,” in homage to the rock star who will be for over 15 years and has been a member of Hazelden’s New honored there. What exactly does that mean? Wraparound shades? Red for his [Red] York board. Also honored were Sue and Jim Cusack, founders Judith and campaign? Organic cotton? It’ll be up to guests to fi gure it out, but we assume Alicia Keys of the Veritas Villa treatment facility in New York. Bill Moyers

and Gwen Stefani already have their costumes ready for their live performances at the fete. — David Moin ARNOULT/WIREIMAGE DUFFY-MARIE PHOTOS BY 16 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2007 WWD.COM U.S. Sees Lack of China Initiative On Intellectual Property Rights By Kathleen E. McLaughlin businesses billions of dollars each year. The companion complaint accused China’s govern- BEIJING — Instead of improving protection and ment of using its media censorship to enforce compliance with international trade laws, China’s a system that promotes widespread piracy of violations of intellectual property rights may fi lms, music and other media. The legally pro- have worsened in some ways since the U.S. filed tected versions are not allowed in for sale, but formal complaints on the issue with the World consumers can buy black market versions of just Trade Organization earlier this year, a U.S. offi- about anything. cial said Wednesday. After the cases were fi led, China warned Jon W. Dudas, U.S. Commerce Department bilateral relations would suffer. In a speech a under secretary for intellectual property rights short time later, Vice Premier Wu Yi excoriated and head of the U.S. Patent Office, said the the U.S. over the cases and said American offi - Chinese government has become notably less cials “totally ignored” the progress China had willing to engage in several productive, bilateral made in protecting patents and other intellec- discussions about how to stem the country’s cost- tual property. ly and rampant counterfeiting of ideas, brands Dudas said with the lack of cooperation on the and other intellectual property. issue, there is some creeping evidence the situa- Dudas, speaking to a group of American busi- tion may be getting worse, rather than improving. ness leaders at a forum on the issue here, said Last year, he noted, 81 percent of the counterfeit the two sweeping complaints the U.S. Trade goods that were seized in American ports were Representative fi led with the WTO in April over made in China. Global piracy has been estimated China’s intellectual property violations were “not to cost American businesses $250 billion a year, intended to substitute for bilateral cooperation with China being the origin of 70 percent of the on a full range of IP issues. world’s counterfeited goods. Catherine “Rather, the WTO mechanism is supposed to U.S. Ambassador to China Clark T. Randt Malandrino help resolve specifi c disputes that have not been said the issue is not only critical to American looks on the solved bilaterally,” said Dudas. “However, since businesses, but key to China’s economic fu- runway in April, when the United States sought dispute ture as it seeks to increase its own innovation. Russia. settlement at the WTO over IP issues, our bilat- Without adequate legal protection to ownership, eral relationships without counterpart offi ces individuals are less likely to create new ideas have suffered.” and products. Meetings have been delayed and cancelled, “Intellectual property rights should be seen Malandrino’s Russian Turn and requests for new talks rejected, offi cials as benefi ting everyone, including the Chinese,” reported. In particular, China has rebuffed said Randt. By Olga Zaretskaya calls for a new meeting of the working group Dudas said communication between the U.S. on IPR under the U.S.-China Joint Commission and China IPR offi ces is not completely cut off. MOSCOW — Catherine Malandrino came to Russia’s capital last on Commerce and Trade. The commission was He noted several continuing areas of coopera- week to show as part of Russian Fashion Week and officially open established by the Bush administration to cre- tion, including joint efforts with China’s IPR of- her 500-square-foot shop in the Tsum department store here. ate ongoing, top-level talks on key trade issues fi ce to cut its workload and make the patent pro- “We are not bringing our brand to like IPR. cess quicker and smoother. terra incognita — Tsum, as a multibrand In April, the U.S. lodged two broad com- Still, he urged China to return to the negoti- store, has been selling our clothes for plaints with the global trade body against China ating table through the platforms it has rebuffed four years,” said Bernard Aidan, chief over IPR. The fi rst charged China maintains a since the cases were fi led. executive offi cer of the Malandrino com- legal system and lack of enforcement that al- “The best way to resolve these differences…is pany. “We are aimed at an international lows widespread, unchecked counterfeiting and through continued dialogue and deepened dia- woman who travels around the world theft of intellectual property, costing American logue,” Dudas added. — to New York, to Paris — who loves the color and is ready for a slightly different age of sexiness.” Malandrino added, “In my stores Catherine in New York and in Paris on Saint- Malandrino Germain, I meet a lot of Russians.” House Committee OKs Trade-Related Worker Aid Bill Tsum is selling the Catherine Malandrino and less expensive By Kristi Ellis on Capitol Hill, were opposed “The program clearly needs Malandrino lines. American fashion designers are occupying an to trade agreements because so to be fi xed, but the bigger prob- increasingly large part of the store, which is the only place in WASHINGTON — The House many displaced workers could lem is that we are continuing Moscow that carries brands such as Donna Karan, DKNY, Ralph Ways and Means Committee not fi nd new careers. to lose jobs to countries that Lauren Black Label, Zac Posen, Diane von Furstenberg, Laundry, passed a bill Wednesday that “Once communities go subsidize their currency and Rebecca Taylor and True Religion jeans. would overhaul and expand a through this, they [believe] local industries, like China,” “American designers are very important for us,” said Alla federal program aiding workers trade is not a friendly vehicle,” said Cass Johnson, president of Verber, vice president of Tsum. “But Catherine Malandrino is who lose their jobs because of Rangel said, adding that the bill the National Council of Textile something special among them — she is a symbol of Parisian spir- international trade. should help allay those fears. Organizations. “It is far better it in the most trendy districts of Manhattan.” The Trade and Globalization The legislation would initial- to help our workers keep good- Assistance Act would reauthorize ly double funding for retraining paying jobs than to provide tem- the Trade Adjustment Assistance programs to $440 million from porary assistance while they program for fi ve years. The pro- $220 million a year and increase have to transfer to lower-paying gram, part of a 10-year, $8.7 bil- to $660 million in 2010. It would jobs or no jobs at all.” lion funding package, provides also expand the trade aid pro- The bill will head to the full training, unemployment insur- gram to include service work- House for a vote. It must also ance, health coverage and other ers who lose their jobs because make its way through the Senate. benefi ts to displaced workers, of international competition, Sen. Max Baucus (D., Mont.), according to a spokesman for the cover workers whose fi rms shift chairman of the fi nance commit- House committee. production to China and India — tee, has introduced his own leg- Lawmakers have argued the current program primarily islation aimed at revamping the that the program, established covers those whose fi rms move program. Complicating matters, by Congress in 1962, does not to countries with which the U.S. Sen. Chuck Grassley (R., Iowa), address the evolving impact has trade agreements — include who has called for linking an of international trade or cover a vehicle for expanding assis- overhaul to renewing the pres- enough workers. But there tance for industries and provide ident’s trade promotion author- is little consensus between assistance to entire communi- ity, plans to introduce a separate Democrats and Republicans on ties hit hard by job losses. domestic trade aid bill. how to revamp it. The initiative has been Past expansions of the pro- The House bill, cosponsored widely used by apparel and gram in Congress have included by Ways and Means chair- textile manufacturers. From fi s- provisions giving the president man Charles Rangel (D., N.Y.), cal 2004 to 2006, about 400,000 trade promotion authority, also would extend benefi ts to more workers were certifi ed for ben- known as “fast track,” which al- workers, including service sec- efits, though not all actually lows the president to negotiate tor employees, and establish used such services, according to trade deals that cannot be amend- certifi cations for industries and the U.S. Department of Labor, ed by Congress. Democrats, who communities affected by factory which administers the program. have railed against President closures because of trade. Almost 77,000 of those receiving Bush’s trade agenda, refused to Rangel said many of his con- certifi cation worked for apparel renew that authority when it ex- stituents, as well as lawmakers and textile producers. pired June 30. WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2007 17 WWD.COM ‘Buy-now, Wear-now’ Is Right Now at Atlanta Markets By Georgia Lee items in cropped silhouettes or new longer shapes. Many buy- ATLANTA — Buyers in the ers searched for alternatives to Southeast, challenged by summer denim, such as high-waist cotton heat lingering into late October and twill trousers. Fabrics were and concerned about the econom- important to Southeast buyers, ic impact of the housing slow- who always need lightweight, down, shopped AmericasMart year-round choices. Retailers more for immediate deliveries said bamboo and other eco- than major spring commitments. friendly fabrics are rising in im- Buying cautiously, they fo- portance among consumers. cused on prices and new takes Contemporary exhibitors in on current bestsellers, with the New York-L.A. Co-op report- Sixties-inspired shapes, bright ed good traffi c and sales. Carlos colors, bold prints and dresses Marin, principal of the CX2 con- leading the way. temporary showroom, said he The event, which ran Oct. 13- worked 30 accounts in two days, 16, had no shortage of product. and has more than doubled busi- The women’s, children’s and ness in the Southeast during the accessories markets combined past two years. with the Alpha men’s wear However, the weather and On the runway in Atlanta, looks from V Fish, Mikael Aghal and French Laundry. show. Seventy percent of Alpha housing market infl uenced buy- exhibitors showed urban and ing patterns. Even retailers who “We want to get in and out bellished cocktail dresses and petitors’] stores,” she said. Eible streetwear lines, and Alpha in- reported strong sales increases of trends, with reasonably jackets from Max and Cleo, To added consumers have respond- cluded a personal appearance said they were buying with priced items and lines that we the Max and Trapeze. For cus- ed well to the “bubbly, colorful, by LL Cool J, the latest rapper sharper pencils and were man- can mark up, and not be stuck tomers who have started to edgy, Mod” offerings. to launch a clothing line, called aging inventory more carefully with big markdowns when the demand eco-friendly fabrics, For spring, she bought Todd Smith, his given name. than in previous seasons. trend is over and showing up Doherty picked up bamboo and bright tunics and day dresses The market also launched “The energy in the market is in Target,” Hill said, citing BB other organic fabrics from Sworn from Joyous & Free, Marisa K a new jewelry fl oor, Fire and off,” said D’Arcy Achziger, vice Dakota’s coats, priced at less Virgins and other resources. and Norma Kamali, and eve- Flash, a 20,000-square-foot tem- president of Elliott Lauren, a than $50 wholesale. Doherty always buys a handful ning looks from Nicole Miller, porary exhibit devoted to bridge New York manufacturer of bridge She bought brightly patterned of core lines, including Nally & Tadashi and Dina Bar-El. To jewelry and anchored by Scott sportswear. “We’ve become as de- silk headbands by Head Dress Millie, Free People, Ivy Jane and augment denim, which has Kay, a Teaneck, N.J.-based fi ne pendent on the weather as farm- and leather and fake leather Michael Simon, and also scoured slowed, she ordered cotton nov- jewelry line that is expanding ers. Spring was cold, October is handbags by Art Effect, which are the market for new lines, picking elty pants with embellishment its Southeast specialty store hot and retailers are coming in examples of special items intend- up Zuccaro. Although her overall from Da-Nang and other lines. base with more sterling silver asking for off-price on merchan- ed to attract her primary base — a business is strong, Doherty said Denim has also lagged for and men’s product. dise that hasn’t even sold full destination weekend shopper. the real estate market downturn, Bob Nemer, who with his wife, Premiere, another temporary price yet. The industry needs to Kim Doherty, the owner of while not as severe in Atlanta Martha, owns three Nashville exhibition, expanded to record rethink seasons according to the Details, a specialty store in as other regions, has begun to stores: The Cotton Mill Collection, capacity, with 187 booths and weather and buyers’ needs.” Alpharetta, an Atlanta suburb, affect the disposable incomes The Cotton Mill Lifestyle and a about 300 lines. The New York- Retailers confirmed the shopped for a range of product, of customers who work in real Nicole Miller boutique. L.A. Co-op, a collective of con- weather’s infl uence on business. sampling key items from about 50 estate-related professions. The “Denim lines are evolving, temporary showrooms on the With October temperatures in resources. Based on a sales boost slump has hit Florida retailers offering more variety in wash- ninth fl oor, also opened a new the 80s and customers demand- of 15 percent in 2007 after a move especially hard. es and fabrics, such as linen addition this market, growing to ing buy-now, wear-now goods, to an affluent neighborhood, “Realtors and all service blends and colors,” Nemer said. 10,000 square feet, with 30 show- Terri Hill, owner of Dakota J’s, Doherty increased her budget 18 industries, including local res- “It’s no longer a matter of just rooms and an estimated 90 lines. a specialty store in the Virginia percent compared with last year. taurants and other businesses” one trend.” Officials said total atten- Highlands neighborhood of With a customer base of loyal re- are feeling the impact of lagging David Gore and Seth Kloss, dance, including buyers and Atlanta, bought immediate deliv- peat shoppers, she kept individ- home sales, said Lorry Eible, who are opening a 3,000-square- exhibitors, was up signifi cantly eries of lightweight fabrics such ual clients’ preferences and sizes owner of Foxy Lady, a boutique foot store called Drew Lewis in compared with last October and as jersey knits for layering pieces in mind while purchasing casual in Sarasota, Fla. midtown Atlanta next month, this year’s previous markets, but to stretch into year-round wear. sportswear items for immediate After a slow second quarter, shopped for the hippest contem- did not provide fi gures. For holiday, she purchased deliveries into the cruise season. Eible’s October business picked porary lines for men and women. Dresses and tunics contin- cropped jackets and cocktail “Customers…come in [for] up, boosted by more direct cus- Gore bought Seventies-inspired ued to be a hot category with dresses in trapeze and tunic buy-now, wear-now clothes, so we tomer contact, service and more abstract and fl oral prints, bright trapeze and A-line shapes in shapes by Max and Cleo and To offer lots of novelty tops to throw cautious, sharper buying. colors and jacquard textures, bright colors and bold abstract the Max. For her trendy, young over jeans or black pants and “I’m working harder, shopping in dresses, tunics, tanks and prints for spring. Jackets and customers, she searched for wear at night,” Doherty said. for items, sharper price points high-waist trousers by Biba, lightweight coats were also key lines to retail at less than $100. For holiday, she bought em- and lines that aren’t in [our com- Alexander Wang and C by Chloé. Congress Supports Cotton Subsidies Despite WTO Issues By Kristi Ellis almost six years. enough to comply with its earlier rulings major textile sectors enjoy huge subsi- Although the U.S. has signaled it is that found U.S. cotton subsidy programs dies from their governments, the Step 2 WASHINGTON — Amid efforts to break prepared to reduce certain kinds of sub- breached global trade rules. That means program made the difference between an impasse on global agriculture sidies, negotiators have been unable to Brazil could have the right to retaliate, if a lot of mills staying in business or clos- subsidies in the Doha trade talks, a break the stalemate between rich and the U.S. appeals the interim ruling and ing,” said Cass Johnson, president of the Congressional committee on Wednesday poor nations over the subsidies and reach loses, for as much as $1 billion a year in National Council of Textile Organizations. was expected to pass legislation that a global tariff and subsidy trade accord. sanctions until America brings the mea- “We’ve seen major job losses since Step 2 would continue subsidy programs for The U.S. is facing pressure from sures into full conformity. payments were taken away.” U.S. cotton growers and other farmers Brazil, which won a World Trade Despite the pressure from the global Nate Herman, director of interna- and reestablish some federal support Organization case against U.S. cotton community, Congress is moving forward tional trade at the American Apparel & for textile mills that use domestic and subsidy programs three years ago by ar- on at least maintaining current funding Footwear Association, said the new pro- imported cotton. guing that American cotton subsidies de- levels for many of the farm programs and vision in the House bill for textile mills Sen. Tom Harkin (D., Iowa), chairman pressed global prices for the commodity is considering reinstating federal sup- looks like a “brand new subsidy.” of the Senate Agriculture, Nutrition and and were illegal. Brazil said the subsi- port U.S. textile mills lost with the Step “We just got rid of one [the Step 2 pro- Forestry Committee, unveiled a draft farm dies cost its farmers more than $600 mil- 2 program. The estimated cost for enact- gram] and now we could replace it with proposal Tuesday that would reauthorize lion in lost sales. ing the House-passed farm bill is $292.7 a new one and Brazil could easily come farm programs for fi ve years. The panel After losing the WTO case, the U.S. billion, according to a spokeswoman back to the WTO” and argue for sanc- was set to vote on it Wednesday night. The was forced in 2005 to scrap a key farm with the House Agriculture Committee. tions, along with other countries, said House passed a $292.7 billion bill in July program, known as “Step 2,” that provid- By comparison, the estimated cost for Herman, who noted the executive and that would pay for several U.S. farm pro- ed $2.4 billion worth of subsidies to cot- the 2002 farm bill is $271.1 billion. legislative branches appear to be work- grams, as well as food stamps and nutri- ton farmers, textile mills and exporters Textile producers have pressed for ing at cross purposes on this issue. tion and conservation programs. between 1995 and 2004, according to the the inclusion of a provision in the farm “If you pass a farm bill similar to what The Bush administration and U.S. Department of Agriculture. legislation that would pay textile mills the House passed [in July] it will make it Congress appear to be working at cross The Step 2 program provided federal 4 cents per every pound of cotton they much more diffi cult to reach a success- purposes on agriculture subsidies. The support to U.S. textile mills that, under use. The House-passed bill contains an ful conclusion in the Doha Round,” said U.S. has been under pressure from the the law, had to buy higher-priced U.S. “economic assistance adjustment” provi- Herman. “The House-passed version of leg- European Union and developing coun- cotton unless the price reached a certain sion providing the relief, and the Senate islation is contrary to the efforts to reduce tries to slash domestic agriculture subsi- threshold over a period of four consecu- draft bill released Tuesday also contains or eliminate many subsidies, which is a crit- dies, particularly for cotton, in the global tive weeks. A WTO dispute panel ruled the same provision. ical step for developing countries and criti- trade talks, which have dragged on for last week that the U.S. did not go far “In a very competitive world, where cal to moving the Doha round forward.” 18 WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2007 WWD.COM A look from Michelle Tan at Chicago Struts Its Stuff the Macy’s show.

By Beth Wilson CHICAGO — As the fashion world debates the lack of African-American models, Chicago bucked the trend, showcasing both minority models and fashion designers in its recent fashion week finale. Some 17 African-American models took to the runway along with assorted Latino, Asian and Caucasian models and designers during “The Allure of Couture” fi nal show, which ended the third annual Fashion Focus 2007, a six-day festival that ran Oct. 9-14. “With all the controversy, it’s very timely to show what minorities can do if given the chance,” said Barbara Samuels, the fashion show’s producer, who is African- American. “Some people feel African-Americans and other minorities don’t have ‘it’ and I think we proved we did.” The spotlight on diversity was one feature of the week, which included indus- try panels, neighborhood shopping tours, student fashion installations and fi ve Millennium Park runway shows averaging 900-person crowds. The week was aimed at elevating the city’s fashion scene and making good on Mayor Richard Daley’s com- mitment to support and promote the local industry. Stephen Kolb, executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, who came into town to kick off the week, along with designer Doo-Ri Chung, liked what he saw. “In terms of originality, talent and freshness of ideas, there was an abundance of that,” said Kolb, who participated in a panel about how to grow a fashion business with James Seuss, chief executive offi cer of Cole Haan, and Andrew Rosen, president of Theory. Kolb added that other cities should take note of Chicago’s developing fashion Web site, ChicagoFashionResource.com, which includes a listing of local designers and boutiques and is planned to include an industry directory of job postings, manufac- turers, stylists and photographers. Kolb also was impressed with the luncheon honoring Chung hosted by the owners At the Macy’s of Jake boutique, Lance Lawson and Jim Wetzel, at the Newberry Library on Oct. 9. show, a dress “Don’t ever underestimate the consumer in Chicago,” he said of the 100-plus crowd. from Katrin “It’s a good lesson to designers everywhere. These were very stylish women ready and Schnabl. willing to shop.” The pair of retailers attended the week’s fi rst runway Basia Frossard with ties to such regions; ensembles from local retailers such as Bottega show, Gen Art’s Fresh Faces in Fashion, which included wom- Contessa representing different cities, as well as a few international designers such as en’s wear designers Dieter Kirkwood and Bennett Cousins, Dragana Ognjevovic from Serbia, who attended the show along with the country’s fi rst who met as fashion design students at Columbia College in lady of Serbia Tatjana Tadic, and Abla Majali, who designs clothing for Queen Noor and Chicago and formed Dieter Bennet, a line carried by Jake. Queen Rania of Jordan. However, Lawson and Wetzel noticed a key segment ● Chicago is…Red Hot!: The eighth-annual runway show Oct. 11 boasted a roster of missing from the week’s fashion shows — local buyers. almost 50 women’s wear, children’s and accessory designers. Standouts included the Tricia Tunstall from Bucktown’s p.45, Lindsey Boland modern, yet feminine apparel by Agga B, a twentysomething designer whose pieces of Wicker Park’s Habit and Heiji Choy-Black of Wicker are carried at Gamma Player, one of Wicker Park’s priciest boutiques, and the atten- Park’s Hejfi na were spotted at the shows, but other retail- tion-grabbing large leather handbags of Diego Rocha, a designer selling his bags for ers seemed few and far between. $700 to $800 at Macy’s on State Street. And as the city continues its plan to push Chicago fashion ● Macy’s Designers of Chicago: The show, which was the highlight of last year’s ahead, the week’s collective events presented a more con- Fashion Focus, spotlighted some of the city’s best designers, including School of the densed, comprehensive view of local talent and made logisti- Art Institute Chicago grad Lara Miller and SAIC faculty member Katrin Schnabl, cal improvements over last year’s fashion festival. That said, Michelle Tan, Orlando Espinoza, Cyndi Chan, Melanie Nicole and Pamela Vanderlinde. missteps prevented some runway shows from achieving the Standout pieces included a white cotton trench and high stand-up collared dress by level of sophistication they sought. Here’s a capsule view of Schnabl and a fl oaty black-and-white polkadot gown by Chan. The event highlighted the week’s main events: many of the week’s strongest fashions either available at Macy’s on State Street or ● Highlights of the fi fth-annual Gen Art show included through trunk shows. an installation by luxury handbag designer Lisa Kingsley ● The Allure of Couture: It was anything but dull, from the strange opening segment and her collection of exotic skin ostrich, python and cobra involving a model changing gowns on the runway with stylists using palms to shield her bags as well as the neatly tailored women’s wear of Dieter body to the vibrant evening gowns of veteran designer James de Colón, the asymmet- Bennet and purchase-worthy pieces from Abigail Glaum- ric elements of Calvin Tran and the fi nal grouping including 2006 SAIC grad Kristina James Lathbury and Moire Conroy, both 2006 School of the Art Sparks, who crafted a jacket made of athletic shoes complete with hanging shoestrings. de Colón Institute Chicago grads. She also made pants from sports jerseys and a full-skirted gown with shoestrings. at “The ● World Fashion Chicago on Oct. 10, where Mayor Daley In all, city offi cials deemed the week a success. Allure of and his wife Maggie took front-row seats. The show was de- “We are seeing results,” Mayor Daley said, noting Chicago is now home to more Couture” signed to correlate with Chicago’s 27 sister cities and fea- than 250 fashion designers. “While this is generating a lot of excitement, it is also show. tured fashion from some local designers like Anna Song and increasing sales of merchandise by local designers and creating jobs.”

Chicago shoppers also took a liking to the shoes shown with the Doo.Ri spring collection, a good omen Doo.Ri Racks Up Sales in Chicago for Chung, who is developing a shoe line that may hen Doo-Ri Chung came to Chicago to help kick off Fashion Focus 2007, she launch this fall. Wlearned an important detail about her Midwestern clients. “Working on my fall collection, that’s priority num- Namely, the designer, who is known for her distinctive draping and loves the ber one,” Chung said. “But I always develop shoes for beauty of an open-back top or gown, found some of her customers uncomfortable the show and work with different designers. We were with that detail. “Everyone I’ve encountered wears a bra,” Chung said. doing 50 percent of the work anyway, so it’s a natural That aside, shoppers, many of which turned out for an 11 a.m. luncheon and progression for me.” fashion presentation hosted by the owners of Jake boutique, took the party back Chung said she is working with leather, suede and pat- to Jake’s Rush Street store location still trying on samples, sipping Champagne, ent to create booties, some with jewel embellishments. chatting with Chung and buying clothes until the late afternoon. The result was “If it doesn’t advance the collection, we won’t launch close to $50,000 in sales and Jake’s best trunk show-personal appearance to date, it,” she said, “but we’re having so much fun with it.” co-owners Lance Lawson and Jim Wetzel said. Down the road, the designer is open to developing In particular, women scooped up Doo.Ri’s Dolman sleeve silk blouse, $795; the accessories, home furnishings, cosmetics or sunglasses fold over shoulder top in rayon, $750, or cashmere, $895, as well as a full cashmere as long as the timing is right. skirt with boy shorts for $1,395 and cashmere bustier cropped top for $895. “I don’t want it to be forced,” said Chung, who In all, it was a fun adventure for Chung, worked on her own before recently hiring a team of who can be hesitant about putting herself eight people. “I still fi nd myself doing everything on out there, noting the Jake appearance rep- my own.” resented her third trunk show after stops at While carefully expanding domestically, Chung Bergdorf Goodman last year and Forty Five hopes to build press in Europe, where she has yet Ten in Dallas earlier this year. to begin distribution, and in Japan, where she just Although cool and calm before her runway signed with a distribution company and possesses shows, Chung admitted, “I’m very cautious if some 15 accounts. I’m doing something like this.” As the 2006 winner of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion But the designer enjoyed encountering Fund Award, Chung has found her growing popularity women who noticed key construction details, an asset. “When I’m calling a fabric company to see a Jim Wetzel and along with those who had followed her ca- A look from line, I don’t have to send a press kit,” she said humbly reer and purchased items from earlier col- Lance Lawson with and then reconsidered. “Actually, I still run into that.” Doo-Ri Chung. Doo-Ri Chung. lections at Jake. — B.W. PHOTOS BY KAREN HOYT PHOTOS BY WWD, THURSDAY, OCTOBER 25, 2007 19 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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Key West Hand Prints DESIGNER FABRICS & FASHIONS High end women’s apparel manufac- Est’d. 1962; renowned for its outstanding turer looking for high profile designer tropical prints, is seeking a BUYER for to launch eveningwear collection. Patternmaker Showrooms & Lofts its Wholesale/Retail Co. that includes over Must be talented & at least 10 years Top Designer Luxury Brand 200 accounts, the brand name "Key West", experience. Fax resume to: Eveningwear House. Must have strong BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS 212-898-1211. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail an est’d. internet store, ownership of the draping skills. Excellent salary for ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 "Key West" Trademark, and over 2000 experienced. Fast-paced environment. copyrighted exclusive original print DIRECTOR of LICENSING Fax information to: 212-463-8224 designs. Call Ed Swift at: 305-294-4142 Sales Account Executive - CBS Consumer Products Properties Include: Star Trek, America’s Product Devel Asst $45-48K Min 1 yr Next Top Model, and Kid nation exp in pre-production, lab dips, proto US Department Store Division Responsibilities: Licensing strategies & samples. Cut & sew knit exp required. Email: [email protected] New York Apparel Co., located in plans for apparel, accessories, domestics, The priority of this position is to increase LeSportsac’s share of PREMIER BROADWAY LOCATION HBA, etc. Research, negotiation, product looks to share part of our beautiful development and approval, analysis of the market in U.S. Department Stores. Requires a dynamic showroom/offices w/another Apparel Co. sales info. Production Assistant seller with strong people, presentation, analytical and expense Please contact Larry at: 212-719-0300 Experience: Relevant exp. in licensing, Contemporary daytime dress manufac- manufacturing, and/or retail. Specific turer seeks energetic prod manager. control skills. Annual Sales Volume $3,000,000. category & entertainment exp. helpful. Chinese language req’d. Min 3 years exp. 4 Positions Available! E-mail resume/cover letter: Fax: 212-382-3623 The basic job requirements include but are not limited to: HIG-END DESIGNER CO. IS SEEKING: [email protected] •Women¹s PATTERNMAKER (F/T) • In depth understanding of Sales to Stock Plans, including PLUS SIZE SHOWROOM WANTED •Men¹s PATTERNMAKER (F/T) DRAPER Production Coordinator weeks of supply and turn Exciting contemporary Plus line seeks •Women & Men¹s PATTERNMAKER Fast-growing better/ novelty driven Dress/Sportswear Co. seeks an exp’d. casual sportswear co. seeks an indiv to • In depth experience with Gross Margin analysis and Sales/Showroom w/upscale Dept. Store for production (FREELANCER) Draper. Must be able to cut and drape. & boutique relationships. Call or E-mail: 5 - 10 years experience in high-end manage & grow its Catalog/Plus-Size excellent working conditions, medical woven/knit product dev/production resolution (917)742-6357 / [email protected] designer company benefits, 401K. Fax resumes: 212-575-5505 •PRODUCTION ASSISTANT: Detailed from India & China. Candidate must • Fashion assortment planning & organized, able to multi-task, be very detail-oriented, a striving per- • Basic model assortment planning and maintenance. knowledge of garment construction. DRAPER fectionist & have an extremely HIGH Please Fax resume to: (212) 966-4682 Fast-paced Dress Co. seeks an exp’d. TASTE LEVEL. Rewarding pkg/ 401k/ • Fashion awareness, public speaking skills for group (min. 5 yrs.) Draper for day & social lines. benefits for the right candidate. Email resume to: [email protected] presentations ACCOUNTING ASST Fax: 212-354-4673 • Negotiation skills Broadway Garment Center NEEDED GRAPHIC DESIGNER • Ability and flexibility to travel approximately 15% of the year NICE OFFICE + SHOWROOM Leading Global Intimate Apparel A multi-tiered Hosiery & Accessories Sales Assistant/Associate • Experience at wholesale or retail with 2 of the following AVAILABLE TO SHARE Company located in SoHo, offers an company located in midtown Manhattan exciting career opportunity for a moti- A leading license distributor is seeking corporations: Macy’s, Lord & Taylor, Dillards, Nordstrom Please Call Joan @ 917-907-1667 seeks a Creative Graphic Designer an enthusiastic, urgency-minded person vated, team player. Quick Books/ who is skilled in both Photoshop & Accounting knowledge helpful. who is organized, detail oriented, and a • Excel, Word and Internet literate including spreadsheet Illustrator & is MAC proficient. We are strong communicator. Duties include: Organizational/ analytical skills are key. looking for a TEAM PLAYER who can creation Fax resume to (212) 219-9293, along contribute fresh ideas, work on CADS •Following & tracking of orders, Duties include but not limited to with salary request. to help design our various product pricing, and shipping status : lines and communicate w/ the factories. •Interaction with buyers to insure • Creation and maintenance of 6 month Stock/Sales Plans Assistant Designer Multi-tasking skills are a must! timely receipt of purchase orders Please send resume to: •Liaison w/design & production teams • Gross Margin monthly proof and reconciliation Leading Jr. Denim Co seeks a creative [email protected] •Analyze data located on web sites of • Branch Store analysis person w/knowledge of Illustrator. Great Mass Market Retailers learning exp. [email protected] •Must be proficient in Word & Excel • Order writing and Assortment Planning Graphic Designer We offer a competitive starting salary • Daily Order processing Assistant Sales & The Northwest Co., a leading producer coupled with a comprehensive employee CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING of decorative Home Fashions is seeking benefits package. Fax/E-mail resumes to: • SKU assortment forecasting Merchandising a talented Graphic Designer to join our 212-244-0773/[email protected] U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 Children’s Clothing Co. looking for • Create and maintain P.O logs www.sanodesignservices.com Art Department. Responsibilities will Sales and Merchandising Asst. to work include creating decorative Pillow & • Communicate with field merchandisers DENIMS TO SELL with Design and Sales Depts. Follow Throw designs for both Sports & Enter- • Communicate with in store selling specialists up samples, details to Orient, ability to tainment licensed properties. Additional Technical Designer/ Large Lots, Lots of Denim Fabric. juggle numerous tasks. Must have ba- responsibilities include putting designs • Communicate daily with account buyers, planners, Camo Available. Cheap Prices. sic computer skills. Knowledge of in- into repeat, preparing artwork for pro- dustry a plus. Phila. location. Product Manager assistance 1.877.DENIM.TO.SELL duction and making design revisions. Seeking individual to manage overseas Please e-mail resume to Candidate should be able to design in • Travel to inspect retail branch locations [email protected] prod’n. samples, overseas development various styles and have strong computer samples, and men’s/boys’ fit samples. The ideal candidate: PATTERN/SAMPLES skills using Adobe CS3. Textile, Licensing, Coordinate, expedite, and follow-up on Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast Beth Bowley illustration or packaging experience is a all samples. We’ll consider candidates • Should have the ability to represent the "New Face of work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 strong plus. E-mail resume & samples from either a technical or fashion design LeSportsac" and LeSportsac’s corporate culture within the Design Associate - Contemporary to: [email protected] background with 3-4 years experience. Patterns/Samples/Production Women’s Line. Great working environ- (no phone calls or recruiters please) Software requirements: Adobe Photoshop professional arena. ment. Concept through sample & Illustrator, Microsoft Office, Excel, • Possesses retail buying experience (preferred but Full Service, Fine Fast Work. development. Must be neat/organized, Merchandiser / DENIM Retail Link, and Partners Online. Mid- Any Styles. have excellent presentation, communi- town location. Please Fax resume and not required) Phone: 212-560-8998 / 212-560-8999 cation and sketching skills. Computer Calik Denim, a world leader in denim salary requirements to: 212-202-4781 skills: Photoshop, Excel. 3-4 years textiles & garment mfg. is seeking to • Driver’s license PATTERNS, SAMPLES, experience. Health Ins, 401K. E-mail add a Denim Merchandiser based in NYC. resume: [email protected] This individual will be a key member Bonus Eligible, Great Benefits, 401K PRODUCTIONS of the team and will be responsible for All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Design interpreting current and future market [email protected] Call Sherry 212-719-0622. ASSISTANT DESIGNER trends and working with existing cus- Leading Junior knit & sweater importer, tomers to identify and fill their fabric EOE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, seeking organized, detailed person needs. This individual should have a with 2-3 yrs exp. Responsibilites will strong relationship with key brands. The PRODUCTIONS include daily communication with fac- individual we are seeking must have 5 Full service shop to the trade. tories overseas, fittings, & assisting to 10 years in the denim textile arena, Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. designer in all phases of development. a strong technical/fashion sense, good Construction knowledge & ability to presentation skills, and be willing to travel PATTERNS & SAMPLES create flat sketches in illustrator a must. as necessary. We offer a competitive Please email:[email protected] benefits and compensation. Please Fax SMALL PRODUCTION resume to: 212-719-1261 or E-mail to: Authentic American lifestyle brand is seeking experienced Fast - Accurate - Reliable [email protected] & Junior Domestic Line Call: 212-217-9750 DESIGN ASSISTANT [email protected] Seeking energetic Salesperson candidates to join our New York showroom team. Fast paced day time dress Co seeking with existing contacts PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD an design asst who is organized, detail Call Marvin at: 718-943-1500 High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- oriented and hard working. Duties will OFFICE MGR/SALES MEN’S & WOMEN’S sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 incl handling tech pacs, following up with vendors, and corresponding with ASST NEEDED SR. ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES/SALES MANAGERS catalog clients. Candidate must have 1-2 Leading Global Intimate Apparel Lemon Grass/ years catalog experience, excellent oral Company located in SoHo, offers an and written communication skills; exciting career opportunity for a Spex Clothing Co Candidates should be enthusiastic, highly motivated & have Proficiency in MS-Office a must! Send motivated, team player. 5+ years Is looking for a seasoned Juniors seller strong communication skills. Must have a minimum of 5 resumes and salary history to : Intimate Apparel experience suggested. [email protected] to join our 52 weekends/Art & Soul years experience in the better sportswear industry & established Reception/office mgmt/sales experience sales team. Sweater and Woven are a must. Investing Partner Wanted DESIGN experience as asset. Please e-mail contacts in the better specialty/ department store arena. Fax resume to:(212) 219-9293, along resume to [email protected] Due Maternity #1 ranked online maternity with salary request. website seeks strategic investor. ASSOCIATE CAD Please note that a misprinted e-mail 415-310-1637 / Al@DueMaternity .com DESIGNER was published in the 10/22 issue. www.gant.com Fast paced Missy Apparel Company Investing/Prod’n. Partner Wtd. seeking a Cad Designer w/good color Operations Coordinator Send your resume in confidence & salary history Well known Designer/Innovator with sense and computer skills to assist the High end contemp. company seeks an following. 2008 collection and sales in design director in creating private label Operations Coordinator. Must have 3-5 as a Word attachment to: [email protected] place. Call Lou Nardi at: 212-921-9100 or apparel for retailers. Candidate must years exp. in fashion, excellent computer E-mail: [email protected] have a strong background in adapting skills, knowlege of EDI and compliance. textiles and create designs based on Must be proficient in A/R, domestic & MINT JODI ARNOLD designer or customer suggestions. Ability int’l shipping. Competitive salary, benefits SALES EXECUTIVE - WEST to use Illustrator and Photoshop a must. and bonus. Please send cover letter West Coast based sales exec needed for Knowledge of Euphoria &Bluecherry a and resume to: growing NYC based contemp brand. 4-5 plus but not required. [email protected] years exp a must with proven record of SALESPERSON E-mail resumes w/salary to sales growth. Must be proficient in Excel Junior/Missy Vertical woven company [email protected] and have established contacts with top needs motivated salesperson with contemp boutiques. Extensive road work minimum 4/5 years experience. Must DESIGNER/DRESS Patternmaker 1st Thru Prod. for Con- required. No showrooms please. Email: have established contacts, 4 day temporary Designer Sportswear Co. 2 [email protected] week, salary plus commission. Fax ECI New York resume in confidence to: 212-395-9765 Positions Available Jackets/Coats/Pants & www.jodiarnoldnyc.com A better updated manufacturer of Children’s Wear Cut/Sew Knits Full Health & 401K. E-mail Exp’d Sales Rep wanted for new children’s Women’s Branded & Private Label Salary reqmnts.: [email protected] Sportswear seeks a dress designer collection. Girls’: 4-6X, 7-14; Boys’: 4-6X. with at least five years experience as a E-mail resume: [email protected] designer. Must have knowledge of flat SALES EXECUTIVE pattern and draping and must have Major apparel company seeking Off exp running a sample room. This is an Price Sales Executive for premium established well known Brand with PATTERNMAKER contemporary market. Must have tremendous room for growth. Candidate Dress/Sportswear Co. seeks an exp’d. 5 - 10 years experience with establish- needs to be very organized. Salary Patternmaker to make first samples from ed contacts and strong relationships commensurate with experience. ECI muslin to final hard paper pattern. with major OP Retailers and specialty Must be well organized and experienced stores. NY based. Salary commensu- COMME des GARCONS seeks a Sales- Junior Domestic Line is a great home for individuals that person w/extensive Retail Pro experience love fashion and have a strong with samplehands Excellent work en- rate with experience. Send resume and Seeking Sales Rep for vironment, 401K and health benefits. cover letter in confidence to: & basic knowledge of MS Excel. Please desire to succeed. Fax 212-382-0237 E-mail resume to: [email protected] East Coast & West Coast Email resume:[email protected] Fax resumes to: 212-575-5505 [email protected] Call Marvin at: 718-943-1500 CVZ TFMM OFUXPSL

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