New York Who Are Creating Beautiful, Well-Executed Clothes

Page 1 Wednesday s FASHION SCOOPS: s EYE: Uptown and down at pre-fashion First day celebrity week parties, page 4. sightings: Lindsay For more, see Lohan, Hilary

s WWD.com. Duff, Amanda INSPIRATIONS: Bynes and, yes, The ideas behind the Ashley Dupré, fall looks, pages 14-23. pages 12-13.

Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • February 14, 2009 • $3.00 WwDWeEKEND Drama Class There’s a fresh crop of new designers in New York who are creating beautiful, well-executed clothes. One bright star is Prabal Gurung, whose glamorous fall collection, presented on Thursday evening, combined the fashion vernacular he had learned at Bill Blass with his own self-assured style. These were clothes for sophisticated women, created with considerable élan. Here, one example: a collections/fall ’09stunning sculpted gown. For more on the season, see NEW pages 6 to 10. YORK PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009 WWD.COM A&F Shares Rise on Earnings, Capex Cuts By Matthew Lynch chief executive officer, EPS was $1.10, 10 cents above analysts’ consensus estimates as reported Shares of Abercrombie & Fitch Co. by Yahoo Finance. WwDWEEKEND climbed more than 10 percent in Friday trading Sales in the three months fell 18.8 percent after the teen retailer led off the fourth-quar- to below $1 billion — $998 million — from $1.23 fashion ter retail earnings season with a smaller-than- billion in the comparable 2007 period and were 6 Halston, Jason Wu, Yigal Azrouël expected decline in profits and sharp cuts in down 25 percent on a same-store basis with all and Duckie Brown were among the capital expenditures. divisions — A&F, Abercrombie, Hollister and headliners as New York’s runway The New Albany, Ohio-based specialty retail- Ruehl — down at least 23 percent. shows kicked into gear. er will lower capex to between $165 million and For the year, Abercrombie recorded a 42.8 $175 this year, between $120 million and $125 percent slide in profit to $272.3 million, or $3.05 14 Think Tank: Designers take fall million for new or refurbished stores and the re- a share, from $475.7 million, or $5.20 a share, a inspiration from Proust to architecture mainder for technology, distribution and head- year ago. Sales in 2008 fell 5.6 percent to $3.54 to Francine du Plessix Gray and quarters projects, less than half the $370 million billion from $3.75 billion in fiscal 2007. anything in between. spent in the just-ended fiscal year. On a conference call with investors, Jeffries said he believed the quarter would “go general down in history as one of the biggest retail 2 Abercrombie & Fitch led off the fourth- nightmares.” He said the volatile economy quarter retail earnings season with a led to malls dominated by promotions and smaller-than-expected profit decline. consumers who were reluctant to spend, Fortunoff laid off the bulk of its Long especially on premium brands. 2 “In this context, particularly given our Island headquarters staff this week, position as an aspirational brand, we are putting the 87-year-old chain squarely satisfied with our results for the quarter,” on the path towards liquidation. Jeffries said. He added the company used 24 SHOW CALENDAR: A guide to runway markdowns to clear seasonal inventory, shows and presentations during New slowed U.S. expansion plans and cut back York Fashion Week. on expenses to better its cash position. Jeffries spoke repeatedly of protecting EYE the company’s brands in the weak retail A slew of events, including fetes, Gwyneth s environment. He said the firm will lower 4 auctions and intellectual pursuits, initial price points at its Abercrombie Paltrow in Proenza kept the fashion flock running around and Hollister stores in 2009, but that town in anticipation of the shows. Abercrombie & Fitch prices will largely Schouler. hold. Though he conceded markdowns are a part of the business, he said the company To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is will not be promotional. [email protected], using the individual’s name. “Because, very candidly, most of the A&F posted a 68.4 percent drop in net income to $68.4 million. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 mall looks as if it’s in catastrophe mode,” FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. While its plans for U.S. expansion include Jeffries said. “We do not and will not. And that’s VOLUME 197, NO. 33. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in April, June and only 10 new stores, versus 90 in 2008, it may an important statement regardless of what we August, three additional issues in March and September, and four additional issues in February) by Fairchild Fashion open that many in Europe for its Hollister brand say here today.” Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY alone. Also in the works are Abercrombie & Retail analyst Chandi Neubauer of Majestic 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Fitch and Abercrombie flagships in Milan and Research said that though Jeffries might not Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail an A&F flagship in Tokyo. characterize it as promotional because it wasn’t Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: “People were surprised pleasantly that capex advertised, the sale environment at Abercrombie return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR is being cut by 60 percent and that inventories & Fitch stores was aggressive and that the com- SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box were in a better position than we thought,” said pany benefited from it. 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new J.P. Morgan retail analyst Brian Tunick, who “The sales have really been driving traffic. and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 said reined-in expenses and a decision to sus- Managers said they can’t move anything at full Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests pend guidance might have also contributed to price,” Neubauer said. to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, the stock’s gains. Despite the declines in profit and sales, the visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or For the quarter ended Jan. 31, the retailer company’s cash position and long-term strategy information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S posted a 68.4 percent drop in net income to attracted investors to Abercrombie stock Friday, WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, $68.4 million, or 78 cents a diluted share, from analysts said, sending it up $2.08, or 10.1 per- UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, $216.8 million, or $2.40 a share, a year ago. cent, to close at $22.78, two-thirds higher than AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY Excluding a 21-cent impairment charge and an its 52-week low of $13.66, reached on Nov. 21, but REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS 11-cent tax charge related to the new employ- only 27.8 percent of its 52-week high of $82.06, SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. ment contract of Mike Jeffries, chairman and hit last Feb. 27. DAILY Very candidly, most Fortunoff Lays Off L.I. Headquarters Staff QUote of“ the mall looks as if By David Moin in March 2008. Last year, the only other bidders for the chain were liquidators. it’s in catastrophe mode. We do not Fortunoff laid off the bulk of Further bringing down the business recently its headquarters staff in Uniondale, N.Y., on were costs connected with the expansion of the and will not. Thursday and Friday, putting the 87-year-old firm’s jewelry line into Lord & Taylor, which is ” jewelry and housewares chain squarely on the also owned by NRDC. The strategy was in prog- — Abercrombie & Fitch chairman and chief executive path toward liquidation. ress but halted midstream as it became appar- Mike Jeffries on his refusal to engage in price promotions. Page 2. Some 300 workers, including the marketing, ent Fortunoff was in financial trouble. Jewelry merchandising and purchasing areas, among had been placed in 11 Lord & Taylor stores, and others, were given pink slips. Customer ser- a shop for home goods from Fortunoff was set vice, IT and the Web site staff are still on board. up at the Westfield, N.J., Lord & Taylor unit. Carolina TODAY ON Fortunoff employs 377 people at its headquar- The company also planned to outfit six L&T Herrera ters and 1,748 in total. stores in the Washington area with outdoor fur- Staff at Fortunoff stores remains intact, but niture from Fortunoff. NRDC was motivated it’s a matter of time before they leave as stores to purchase Fortunoff on the basis its jewelry get liquidated. and home offerings could be rolled into Lord & A hearing is set for Feb. 24 to approve a win- Taylor’s merchandising. WWD ning bid. So far only liquidators have shown in- According to sources, Fortunoff workers did .com terest. Bidding is set for the day before, at the of- not receive any severance, because of the bank- fice of Sidley Austin, the law firm for Fortunoff. rupt condition of the company. However, half va- Friday was the last day for many of the workers. cation pay was given. Fortunoff, owned by NRDC Equity Partners, A handful of workers, including a few in pur- declared Chapter 11 bankruptcy for the second chasing and technology, were transferred to • More designer time in a year on Feb. 5. Fortunoff went into Lord & Taylor. inspirations for fall bankruptcy for the first time in early 2008. The “It’s devastating, because it was such a fam- • Run of show images business has been hit particularly hard by the ily business,” said Arlene Putterman, Fortunoff economic downturn but had been struggling for spokeswoman and a 22-year veteran of the com- from the women’s and years before due to antiquated merchandising pany. “I have always believed I was part of the men’s collections at and systems. family, so I am sad to see so many people here New York Fashion Week That first filing enabled NRDC to purchase saying goodbye. Some were here for 40 years…. • Additional photos of the $400 million business relatively inexpensive- We are walking out of here without anything ex- ly — for $80 million plus $30 million in debt and cept a lot of good memories.” the Red Dress show other obligations — and lift it out of bankruptcy — With contributions by Vicki M. Young • Global breaking news BAYSWATER CLUTCH NEW YORK LONDON PARIS HONG KONG MULBERRY.COM 4 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009 WWD.COM

Anya Kerry Washington Hindmarch in vintage with Matt Damon.

Liliana Dominguez at the Gryphon Delphine Showroom. Arnault-Gancia

For more, City Lights see WWD.com. Mary J Blige in Donna Karan with the designer. For a Fashion week that’s supposed to be lacking Kirsten Dunst JessicaJessica Seinfeld,Seinfeld, EmanueleEmanuele DellaDella ValleValle in parties, there certainly have been a lot of parties. andand AmandaAmanda Brooks.Brooks. Festivities began with a luncheon at Bergdorf Goodman’s BG restaurant last Tuesday to mark the Dior spring collection. Delphine Arnault-Gancia’s presence was enough to draw a crowd of top Bergdorf clients. After lunch, guests including Jamee Gregory, Julia Restoin Roitfeld and Kim Heirston went down to the second floor Dior area to peruse the runway looks. Even reality star Jill Zarin of “Real Housewives” fame was buying — a Lady Dior bag, which was monogrammed on-site.

STEVE EICHNER BY Meanwhile, Pollini’s ready-to-wear designer, Jonathan Saunders, was being feted with a luncheon at La Grenouille. “Look, both Poppys are here,” exclaimed one guest of Poppy Delevigne and Poppy de Villeneuve. “I get your invitations all the time,” said de Villeneuve to her doppelganger. “But I only go to the good ones.” That evening, the social set’s favorite makeup artist, Alexa Rodulfo, celebrated her first scented candle, Bois d’Alexa, with cocktails at the Gryphon Showroom for friends including co-hosts Lauren Santo Domingo and Aimee Cho. Anya Hindmarch’s showroom, meanwhile, had been made over into an English-

s Liza Minnelli style pub for a quiz night led by Jessica Joffe. Uptown, Lela Rose, Beth Buccini, Sarah Easley, Rosie Pope and Amanda Brooks congregated at Roger Vivier’s Madison Avenue boutique for MADER/PMC; ALL OTHERS SHAUN BY NICK HUNT/PMC; SELTON some shopping to benefit Baby Buggy. No doubt hostesses Ines de la Fressange and Jessica Seinfeld were pleased by the many black American Express cards being whipped out to DELEVIGNE BY purchase shoes. The following night, Tod’s co-hosted a party with W magazine to benefit Love Heals. “Party, party, party. No

FARRELL/PMC; work,” said Emanuele Della Valle, son of Tod’s SpA chairman Diego Della Valle, who owns both Tod’s and Roger Vivier. Downtown, Gwyneth Paltrow screened her new film “Two Lovers” with the Cinema Society and Salvatore Ferragamo. Her co-star Joaquin Phoenix, fresh off his bizarre appearance on “The David Letterman Show,” did a brisk lap around the press queue, all the while trailed by the camera crew for his forthcoming film. Afterward, Clive Owen, Natalia Vodianova, Roland Betts with his Hilary Duff and Jake Paltrow headed to the Cooper Square Hotel Roland Betts with his Poppy DelevigneDelevigne daughter Maggie in

BILLY DUNST BY SOMODY-WHALEN; where, despite separation rumors, Tinsley and Topper Mortimer in Pollini. vintage Bill Blass. chatted together with friends and Kirsten Dunst hid in a corner. in Pollini. vintage Bill Blass. At MoMA, intellectual types gathered for the Alternative Apparel-hosted premiere of “The People Speak,” a documentary based on the writings of liberal historian Howard Zinn which stars Matt Damon, Josh Brolin and Marisa Tomei, among others. Even there, fashion was on guests’ minds. “[Matt and I] know why the press is here,” said Kerry Washington, who stood out amid a sea of tweed and elbow patches in a rainbow sequined minidress. “So if I wear something cute it means this

KRISTEN DOMINGUEZ BY WASHINGTON, event might get even more attention.” Uptown at an Upper West Side apartment, Maggie Betts hosted an equally educational evening: a dinner benefiting the PEN American Center in honor of Sean Wilsey and the essay collection he co-edited, “State by State: A Portrait of America.” After listening to Wilsey’s tale of giving his entire book advance to President Obama’s campaign, guests had copies signed by s Gwyneth Paltrow the author and his fellow contributors, including his wife, in Proenza Schouler. Daphne Beal, Ellery Washington, Paul Greenberg, Creshida Leyshon and Heidi Julavits. And on Thursday, Cipriani was packed for the American Foundation for AIDS Research gala benefit. “We are very proud and very grateful to see so many supporters,” said emcee Stanley Tucci. “I know these are lean times, but I hope you’ll drink enough and pretend they aren’t.” Honorees included Donna Karan and Liza Minnelli, who was, of course, Michelle Monaghan in bedazzled to the hilt in a number Kenneth Cole designed for her. Does she Amanda Setton and Louis Vuitton at Cipriani. ever wear anything without sequins? “Well, sometimes I wear things with Dreama Walker at Tod’s.

JOHN AQUINO; BY X PRUTTING/PMC; DAVID ARNAULT BY HINDMARCH bugle beads,” she said with a shrug. BOSS Black HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600 www.hugoboss.com 6 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009

collections/fall NEW ’09 YORK

The big gamble paid off for five young designers, who in spite of dour times Newshowed great collections, whe ther Newvia grown-up polish or playful, edgyYork looks.

Prabal Gurung: Prabal Gurung spent five years as a design assistant at Bill Blass. Ralph Rucci to thank. “The best thing I learned from him was refinement,” said In spite of, or perhaps facilitated by, the revolving door of designers at the house, Bell. “I really took that to heart in my collection.” Thus Bell worked the binding Gurung was able to evolve his own sensibility, one that reflects the glamour of the motif into elegant silk wrapped-neck bow blouses and flowy Grecian sashes on master himself, with an au courant air. In his first collection under his own label, gowns, and the hints of leather straps on dresses evoked more of a sporty equestrian Gurung offered 20 polished, elegant looks ($400 to $2,500), which he refers to as feel. He’s deft with the luxe stuff, too, like the alligator-trimmed mink jacket. “clothes for a thinking man’s sex symbol. Dare I say,” he added, “for the anti-Paris And though the overall mood veered more on the tony, serious side, Bell showed Hilton.” Indeed, his clothes seem suited perfectly to chic grown-ups — a common- he could get whimsical with the best of them: He patterned the caviar-beaded sense customer concept that has already informed the collections of a number of embellishments after the mud-splatter scene in the Luis Buñuel movie. emerging types showing this week. Such women will welcome those sculpted, double-faced cashmere jackets and Bensoni: The economic downturn hasn’t exactly curbed the enthusiasm of Bensoni’s coats in red, fawn or black, worn with draped leather skirts or languid jersey Benjamin Channing Clyburn and Sonia Yoon. “People only want to buy special dresses. “I was inspired by the colors of Nepal, where I was born,” Gurung pieces now, so we pushed ourselves in that direction,” said Yoon. The result was noted. Evening dazzled in the same tones; tailored sportif came in a black hand- a standout fashion week debut for the pair, who launched their line in 2007. The embroidered cropped jacket over trousers; high glam in majorly constructed gowns. inspiration this season came in the form of “The Story of O,” but if there were any If these looked a bit retro, they read not a bit camp, and one only need reflect on Marquis de Sade-type references, Clyburn and Yoon left them to the audience’s recent red-carpet sightings to know there’s a market, however rarefied, for such imagination. Instead, the French novel gave the collection a decidedly polished structured curvature. Still, it’s Gurung’s gentler evening looks and fab daywear that Parisian feel, one the designers paired with a slight rocker street edge. Cases in will provide his best chance at long-term success. point: the gentle chiffon T-shirt dress in a fuchsia leopard print or the acid yellow mohair tweed skirt. The hardware further upped that edgy vibe, whether it was the Chadwick Bell: Being the Yves Saint Laurent aficionado he is, Chadwick Bell was jewelry done in collaboration with Bing Bang’s Anna Sheffield or the custom-made bound to do a collection based on Catherine Deneuve in “Belle de Jour.” But rather gold-colored zippers. In fact, if there was a de Sade moment, it was in the allover lip than toss out yet another bondage collection to the fashion set, Bell incorporated prints — also of the Rolling Stones, Schiaparelli, Yves Saint Laurent and Diane von that theme in a beautiful, subtle sportif manner. For this, he has former employer Furstenberg fame. WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009 7 WWD.COM

Chadwick Bell Prabal Gurung

Rebecca Minkoff Bensoni

s Nima

Nima: Less than two years after launching his namesake line fresh out of Parsons, Nima Taherzadeh is showing a knack for elegant, inventively detailed ready-to-wear. It’s unabashedly luxurious. Take his mink sleeveless minidress, or the pink silk satin column with origami pleating at the shoulder: Both embody high-end dressing, but even Taherzadeh’s day dresses — such as the terrific gray wool bouclé thigh-skimmer — are evidence that this new talent chinsee has a handle on what women want.

Rebecca Minkoff: While other designers may be pulling back on advertising, Rebecca Minkoff is going full steam ahead, running ads and figuring that “this way we will be noticed more.” It is with this same chutzpah that Minkoff, who is centeno and george known for her handbags, decided to relaunch sportswear (she closed her contemporary line in 2005). The collection has a rockabilly feel, what the love child of Bob Dylan and June Carter might look like — shiny black denim, high-waist jeans, fitted polkadot blouses and minidresses with sweetheart necklines. Minkoff prefers “details that make you look twice,” talaya antonov, pasha utilizing hardware such as zippers on a pencil skirt and rivets by from her popular bags on a Western blouse, all perfect for the under-30 set that welcomes a little theme dressing. photos 8 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009

Jason Wu: Bravo, Jason! Countless designers, young and not so, could take a page from Jason Wu, who refused to let his newfound celebrity go to his head. Instead of indulging in a megafashion event packed with pushy throngs who didn’t have to be there, Wu kept his guest list tight and his mood calm, putting the focus right where it should be, on the clothes. His aim was to offer a different take on fairy tales, inspired not by his own recent story but by the drawings of Arthur Rackham, who famously illustrated “Alice in Wonderland.” Wu realized the motif in a delightful manner that was controlled if not exactly spare. By day, he moved back and forth between full-skirted looks and curvy dresses, often adding deep bands of embroidery at the hem, or working a waisted frock in a Kara Walker-inspired mini print, which requires up-close viewing to figure out. A delightful aspect of his clothes is that though consummately wearable they are not at all bland, whether the interest comes via boldly embroidered shoulders on a sexy sheath or in a cascade of frothy chiffon ruffles over a metallic skirt. Ditto the high evening looks. Michelle Obama’s now-famous inaugural gown offered a beautiful break from the dull-as-dishwater, uberpervasive mermaid and siren fare that dominates the celebrity scene. Here, Wu offered numerous such lovely alternatives, from a fabulous flapper-esque sky blue chiffon to a dotted navy tulle affair with a hint of Fifties ingenue optimism.

collections/fall NEW ’09 YORK

Yigal Azrouël WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009 9 WWD.COM Yigal Azrouël: A peak or a valley in fashion’s increasingly pathetic celebrity obsession? Depends upon one’s viewpoint. From this end, the presence of For all Ashley Dupré, the world’s most famous has-been hooker, suggested that Yigal Azrouël couldn’t get star power of a more reputable sort to grace his collections’ front row, somebody like Chris Brown, perhaps. Why he went with a tabloid complete run toots is curious, because it only made her, rather than his excellent collection, of show, see the focus. Azrouël, like many of his peers, is fixated on the hip downtown type who tends toward stovepipe pants and strong shoulders. He had WWD.com that angle covered with legging-like cotton and leather pants and romantic washed-silk blouses done with a level of sophistication that sets his clothes apart. Indeed, the voluminous top/skinny bottom silhouette often skews young and sometimes sloppy — likewise for the short-and-tight conceit. But Azrouël managed to show both with a controlled edginess that works for women and girls — and you know there’s a difference. Colors were moody, heavy on black, gray and blue. For day, he emphasized texture with a terrific, oversize Fair Isle cardigan that flew away over stretch wool pants, as well as tough, as in a studded cropped leather jacket. As for the dresses, a painterly print on a languid silk gown didn’t flow, but a black, relaxed- Morticia version perfectly captured the “dark yet romantic” tone Azrouël meant to set.

Peter Som: With all the drama Peter Som has been through lately (leaving Bill Blass and losing his own financial backing), everyone would understand if he sat out this season. But he took all those changes on the chin and whipped together a fall collection in less than two weeks, all the while focusing on the positive, or “my favorite things,” as he put it. To Som, that meant the bright side of his sporty classics, such as shift dresses, tweed jackets and tie-neck blouses, in a mash-up of color, texture and even tinsel galore. There were jacquards and tweeds shot with metallic accents, a fils coupes “T-shirt” with silver Chantilly lace sleeves, and fox furs dipped in pink, blue and purple for an iridescent finish. It was eclectic, and when styled together, a little too eccentric. But taken individually, each piece had the kind of special details that could inspire a girl to spend.

Halston: Though the line benefited unquestionably from a discreet showroom installation and video in lieu of a show, the reincarnation of the Halston mystique remains very much a work in progress.

n The question of end use still stands: Who, exactly, are these clothes se for? An Eighties-ish studded jumpsuit and ick

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u show, David Delfin cut a sharp figure, literally — Catherine Holstein: Oversize “boyfriend” shirts were Abaeté: Inspired by late 18th-century French st jacket shoulders were bold, waists nipped and pants among the casual, slouchy separates in Catherine dandies, Laura Poretzky’s collection of pretty dresses vin e cropped, each angular piece lending an androgynous Holstein’s fall lineup. was kicked up a notch with detailed folds and edge to his women’s and men’s looks. sharply tailored suiting, including a jacket with tails. Morgane Le Fay: Designer Liliana Casabal wisely Wren: Melissa Coker paired belted minis with toned down the trickiness this time out, eschewing Barbara Tfank: Barbara Tfank channeled what she cardigans and lace-up shoes in a lineup that’s sure complicated layering for fluid and flattering called “the glamour of the Depression” with a tight to score points with quirky prepsters and future silhouettes with a more youthful vibe, as with a lineup of tony classics, including four standout

k PETER SOM PHOTO BY librarians. wispy pin-tucked plum dress. Thirties-inspired gowns. 10 WWD, wEekend, february 14, 2009 WWD.COM

John Bartlett collections/fall Warm NEW ’09 Front YORK Duckie Brown proposes fresh ways to bundle up as men’s designers experiment with tweeds and more modern textures.

Duckie Brown: The Duckie Brown gent doesn’t compromise his urban style when he heads to snow country. Techy materials and bright, safety orange lent athletic energy more from the shows... to tweed and herringbone Gilded Age: Stefan Miljanic tailored clothing. made a conscious effort to Gilded Age Designers Steven elevate the collection with Cox and Daniel tailoring, refined fabrics and Silver revisited double-faced knits, which all the notion of complemented the core denim protection, at and work-inspired sportswear. times leaving no part of the Antonio Azzuolo: Azzuolo’s body uncovered youthful vision of the good except a sliver life is a hipster-approved for the eyes. Heavy blend of American prep and overcoats naturally sophisticated Continental played a central role tailoring. as the ultimate protective layer. That weightiness was Lincs by David Chu: It recently shared by trousers and jackets absorbed the clothing- that also were made from coat focused David Chu line, but fabrics. Nylons and waxed cotton Lincs showcased sportswear canvases heightened the feeling and outerwear, including an of protection and also durability, introduction of denim and a as the designers identified more modern logo. endurance and survival as optimistic values for the times. Jurgen Oeltjenbruns: The Duckie Brown’s usual, German-born designer added more obvious experiments in abstract details to complicated Duckie Brown proportion were restricted to constructions and played with accessory statements. Extra- patchwork in a wide range of long padded gloves, blanket scarves and knitted scales. hats topped with giant pompoms heightened the Antonio Azzuolo bundled, wintry feeling. Duckie Brown always turns a sweatshirt into the vehicle of its seasonal decorative motif, which this season was a French knot, sort of a miniature version of the pompom. French knots paved many surfaces, lending them even more texture and weight to withstand the elements. For an example of survivalism, look no further than Cox and Silver themselves. The duo collaborated with Florsheim on shoes and partnered with McDonald’s for marketing support.

John Bartlett: The beefy silhouettes in Bartlett’s warm and tweedy collection of high-waisted trousers, clingy two-tone sweaters and coats with gathered back waists alluded to early 20th century laborers. Suspenders and flat caps completed the theme. A touch of modernity would have made a nice counterpoint. Duckie Brown

For all collections’ complete run of show, see WWD.com. Jurgen Lincs by Oeltjenbruns David Chu

12 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009

FASHION SCOOPS FREE LOVE: Yves Saint Laurent CYNTHIA HAILS A CAB: Guests at Cynthia Rowley’s fashion show BELOW THE RADAR: Samantha Ronson and is spreading the love this Monday at The Jane Hotel won’t be the only ones seeing her fall Perhaps attempting to Lindsay Lohan Valentine’s Day, giving away collection. At that same time, a pair of shorts featuring looks from quash rumors of ongoing 12,000 black cotton tote bags, her new line will air on Taxi TV. The designer teamed up with Andy tiffs with her gal pal each containing images of the Spade’s Partners & Spade and Red Bucket Films to develop the Samantha Ronson, label’s spring ad campaign and shorts, which are expected to be viewed by nearly 1.2 million cab Lindsay Lohan eschewed a heart-shaped USB key. Over passengers during fashion week. Monday night Rowley’s runway the front row at Friday’s half a million copies of the video and film shorts will be screened at a party for the fashion

Charlotte Ronson show. GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY 20-page campaign booklet will crowd. “We wanted to do something imaginative and artistic that Instead, the starlet was be distributed in Hong Kong, would be positive for New York and the retail industry,” she said. by the DJ’s side in the London, Milan, New York, Paris music booth above the and Tokyo today. A copy will be runway. “I’m really sick included in each tote. This will Jimmy Rachel right now,” she said. be the fifth consecutive year Fallon Zoe “I think I have an ear that creative director Stefano infection.” As such, her Pilati has reached out to a fashion week schedule wider demographic, offering is still up in the air. “I’m merchandise to the masses. not sure what I’m doing the rest of the week,” MISS PUNCTUALITY: Rag & Bone’s runway show Friday night she shrugged. proved to be the first stop on many celebrities’ fashion week itineraries. Those in the front row included Jimmy Fallon, WRONG, OR RIGHT, KIND OF PUBLICITY?: So how exactly did Ashley Lake Bell, Elijah Wood and Fonzworth Bentley. Rachel Zoe Dupré, Eliot Spitzer’s former favorite call girl, end up in the front was excited to see Rag & Bone, but confessed her partiality row of Yigal Azrouël’s show on Friday? to Marc Jacobs. “I’m biased,” said Zoe. Asked if she knew However it happened, the designer is not amused. “I’m whether she was actually getting into the Jacobs show, Zoe shocked,” Azrouël told WWD on Friday night. “I’m not somebody paused, then decided punctuality would be the key. “I don’t who’s following and focusing on celebrity. I’m concentrating on know yet. I hope, hopefully yes. He started on time last year. making beautiful clothing. I’m so happy with how the collection I’m going to actually be early, from now on I’ll be early.” PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY looked, so I think we should be focusing on that, and not on the other side. You have to understand, I’m putting so much effort into what I do that this is emotionally hard. The review needs to be about the clothes, in my opinion.” Azrouël said that when he reviewed the seating chart with People’s Revolution’s Kelly Cutrone, who handled the front of house, Dupre’s name was no where to be found. “I don’t know who she is, I don’t know what she looks like,” he said. “I didn’t know she was there.” For her part, Cutrone Ashley maintained that Dupré Dupré crashed the show, which is contrary to the aspiring singer’s version. From her front-row perch Dupré — clad in relatively demure on leather pants, towering eye Hot SPotS sandals and a red jacket, her hair parted on one side — said she had been invited by Cutrone. She added that she and her manager Charles Suitt “snuck in” to the tents, explaining that no one had bothered her. “I’m here to see Yigal,” she said. “I’m really excited.” PHOTO BY BRIAN ACH/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY By late afternoon Cutrone was doing damage control. She acknowledged that her firm had invited Dupré to the Davidelfin show at 4 p.m.; Azrouel was at 11 a.m. (Surely the one thing on a former call girl knows how to do is tell time). Cutrone eye travel Put down the Blackberry. Pick up the wine glass. stressed that Dupré “had never met Yigal, does not know Yigal and she was not wearing Yigal” — a declaration that did not satisfy the designer. “I’m not going to work with [Cutrone] anymore,” he said. “I’m trying to be calm about the situation, but I’m really not happy about it.”

AMERICAN GIRL: Nicole Miller reeled in Grammy winner Estelle to her Friday night show and, surprise surprise, she sees a signature line in her future. But all in due time. The singer shares her duet buddy Kanye West’s learn-before-you-burn design philosophy. Eager to WWDeyeScoop learn from a pro, she said, “I would be happy to get a on coffee with Karl Lagerfeld.” For now she is writing all eye relaxatIon her songs for her next album, which John Legend will produce. As for whether music trumps fashion in terms Advertise in the all-new WWD EyeScoop and get in of trendsetting, she said, “At the moment they are going head-to-head. As musicians you have to have the hottest dresses and designers want the hottest music for front of the industry’s power players — influential, affluent their shows. It all mixes up.” Miller’s front-row regulars Candace Bushnell and Maggie Rizer were on hand, as consumers — as they plan their weekend. were Daisy Fuentes, Kristi Yamaguchi and Lily Collins.

WU’S CLAN: Jason Wu’s show on Friday was at the same space as his last one — Exit Art — but the atmosphere was definitely more fraught with anticipation. First of all, many Coming this spring attendees were wondering “Will she?” or “Won’t she?” about on Michelle Obama’s possible attendance. (For anyone who’s eye SHoPPInG been out of the country for the past month, Obama wore a custom-made gown by the young designer on inauguration night). Though the First Lady did not appear in the end, Wu’s friends Gretchen Mol and Joy Bryant did. Mol has been a supporter since she met Wu through mutual friends two years ago, she said. “It’s great to have a personal relationship with the designer, and the clothes happen to be beautiful,” Want to be a part of the action? said the “Life on Mars” star. “He was under the radar, which Contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher at 212 630-4737, or your WWD representative. was nice,” she continued — until of course, Obama wore his white, one-shouldered dress. “I saw his name,” said Mol. “I was like, ‘Wow, that’s so cool.’” WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009 13 WWD.COM

Katie Couric Hilary Duff in in Carmen Donna Karan. Color Them Red All Over Marc Valvo. A cast of celebrity models including Hilary Duff, Brittany Snow, Amanda Bynes, Cicely Tyson and Katie Couric helped kick off fashion week Friday in this year’s The Red Dress Collection at the Bryant Park Tents. Each of the 20 notables hit the Broadway-esque runway in designer red dresses. Backstage, girl talk abounded but participants kept the heart disease awareness event’s message in mind. Wearing a Carolina Herrera gown, Lynda “Wonder Woman” Carter said, “So we get to be divas, but [we’re] still talking about something of substance.” Wearing a Donna Karan gown, Duff was fronting her boss, so to speak. She has a hand in Femme for DKNY Jeans, but remains an actress at heart with three independent films set to launch, as well as a TV series — rumored to be called “Barely Legal.” In a case of new-media-meets-old-media, Couric gladly took a TMZ videographer’s cellphone to chat up his friend in Los Angeles while his camera was rolling. Earlier the CBS newscaster, dressed in a Carmen Marc Valvo red sequined gown, joked about prepping for her runway debut. “I’ve been practicing looking hungry and angry,” she said. She was more frank about nightly news viewers’ preoccupation with her appearance. “It’s natural. I think women have more to scrutinize. They can have a little more variety in their wardrobes and they can style their hair differently. They don’t have to have the same hair from birth to baldness,” Couric said. Kristi Yamaguchi and Amanda Beard weighed in on fellow Olympian Michael Phelps’ widely publicized pot smoking. Wearing a Vera Wang gown, figure skater and “Dancing With the Stars” champ Yamaguchi said, “It’s great that he’s owning up to it and apologized. As a fellow Olympian, I hope he learns from it.” A Cushnie et Ochs-clad Beard said, “I think he’s human and he made a mistake. I’m really excited to see him swim in 2012 because he is pure entertainment.” Jane Kaczmarek, whose foundation, Clothes Off Our Back, will auction the event’s dresses, was not convinced. Amanda After her spin on the runway, she joked, “It was forever!” Bynes in — Rosemary Feitelberg For more images from The Red and Julie Naughton Daniel Dress Collection, see WWD.com. Swarovski. JOHN AQUINO PHOTOS BY AUTO PILOTS: Vogue Italia editor in chief Franca Sozzani and BMW have come together to design a special edition BMW 7 series model. The luxury vehicle was celebrated with a bash on Thursday night, where many of the guests ruminated on their more humble auto beginnings. Sozzani remembered her first car very clearly. “It was a Mini,” she said. When asked whether she was accident-prone as a young driver, she acknowledged, “some stupid things all the time — still today.” Katie Lee Joel’s first car was a 1991 Volvo 240, “and it was a tank,” she said. Meanwhile, Chanel Iman, all of 20 years old, has already owned two Mercedes and had as many fender benders. “I never hit anyone, but two people hit me,” she eye on Hot SPotS said. “I thought it was the end of the world.” SOCIAL NETWORK: Prabal Gurung had quite some support on hand for his first presentation on Thursday. Both Cynthia Rowley and Peter Som came out to the Flag Art Foundation to pay their respects to Gurung, who is going out on his own for the first time after designing with Som at Bill Blass recently, and for Rowley before. Rowley, who brought along her design team, was gushing over the collection like a proud mother. “I am floored,” she said, scanning at the lineup of models at the gallery. “It is so beautiful. I am so proud.”

LUCKY CHARM: You can’t call Ecco Domani superstitious. The breakfast honoring this year’s Ecco Domani Fashion on Foundation award winners took place on Friday the 13th eye travel Put down the Blackberry. Pick up the wine glass. in an apartment-like space in the Garment District, on the 13th floor. (The elevator designated it “12A.”) If the emerging designers receiving the award prizes felt unlucky in their economic timing, 2002 honoree Zac Posen said he found himself in a similar boat when he held his first show after 9/11. “Our job is to creatively re- excite and reinvigorate the industry. That’s what happened after 9/11, and we’re at a moment when we could do it again,” he said. With commercial expectations low, “it’s a good time to enable yourself creatively,” he said. Posen reminisced about the many benefits of the award. “Since we started [my first] show late, editors and buyers were WWDeyeScoop able to get drunk before the show,” thanks to winemaker on Ecco Domani, he said. This year’s winners were Lyn Devon, eye relaxatIon Matthew Ames, Cushnie et Ochs by Carly Cushnie and Michelle Ochs, and Ohne Titel by Alexa Adams and Flora Advertise in the all-new WWD EyeScoop and get in Gill for women’s design; Corpus by Jerrod Cornish and Keith Richardson for men’s design; jeweler Monique Péan won for accessories, and Bodkin Brooklyn designers Eviana front of the industry’s power players — influential, affluent Hartman and Samantha Pleet for sustainable design.

consumers — as they plan their weekend. CULT FOLLOWING: On Thursday night, the eve before the official start of fashion week, the Museum of the City of New York introduced guests to an oft-unknown designer with a reception for its new exhibit, “Valentina: American Couture and the Cult of Celebrity.” A Ukranian- Coming this spring born emigré, Valentina Sanina Schlee was arguably a on founder of American couture, whose pieces were worn eye SHoPPInG by the likes of Greta Garbo, Katharine Hepburn and the Duchess of Winsdsor, and whose shrewd understanding of marketing and bold personality made her a star. And according to one attendee, such accolades and notoriety are still available to today’s style-making crop. “I think all designers today are celebrities,” declared Mary McFadden, whose ex-husband Kohle Yohannan’s book on Want to be a part of the action? Valentina accompanies the exhibit’s opening. Contact Christine Guilfoyle, publisher at 212 630-4737, or your WWD representative. At least one representative of today’s generation was on hand, despite having a show the next morning. “I just finished my last fitting,” smiled a relievedYigal Azrouël. “I came because I needed to be stimulated by something else.” 14 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009

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in ’s and men’s collections. s n pi red wome by ll fa an k y or thing Y New an e d th everything for “Layered.” — Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough, Proenza Schouler WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009 15 WWD.COM NEW YORK INSPIRATIONS ’09 collections/fall “A reinterpretation of Sixties chic with a futuristic twist.” s — Gilles Mendel, J.Mendel 1938-1939 RENE MAGRITTE FROM LE PRESENT, s “‘This brave new world’s Not like yesterday; s “The spirit of the moment is It can take you higher eerily captured in this gouache Than the Milky Way.’ by Magritte — prescient, — ‘Street Life’ by Bryan Ferry.” uplifting and inspiring.” — Phillip Lim, 3.1 Phillip Lim — Yeohlee Teng, Yeohlee

s “The collection consists of

innovative pieces in an exploration ROGER VIOLLET/GETTY KLEIN; SUI IMAGES BY of form and materiality.” — Italo Zucchelli, Calvin Klein Collection, men’s OF CALVIN 2003; KLEIN COURTESY PHENOMENON,” MITCHELL BEAZLEY, “Romantic luxury.” CULTURAL — Ralph Lauren OF “BOUTIQUE:A 60S LIM COURTESY DONALD MOFFETT; s “‘The only real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes but in having new eyes.’ — Marcel Proust.”

— Anna Sui PROENZA SCHOULER PHOTO BY 16 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009

“Living raw beauty.” NEW YORK — Zac Posen INSPIRATIONS ’09 collections/fall

“Inspired reality.” — Donna Karan s

“The now- iconic look of Eighties pop/punk rockers.” — Wichy Hassan, s

s “The subtlety, Miss Sixty simplicity and polished surfaces of Constantin Brâncusi’s bronze sculptures.” — Mark Badgley and James Mischka, Badgley Mischka

“Prints for the collection are abstracted from photographs taken on my iPhone at my friend’s Upstate house or at the Tate Modern in London. — Maria Cornejo, Zero + Maria Cornejo WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009 17 WWD.COM s “The collection More, More, More elegantly shapes the immediate future of men’s ’09 dressing with a realistic, tan- gible style — collections/fall focusing on creativity and elegance to elevate the spirit…. Contrasting proportions and diverging textures are paired together, with a masculine, modern attitude.” s Jonathan Saunders — Alessandro Sartori, Z Zegna “The exuberance and multiplicities of artistic expression in Paris between the wars, from Henry Miller’s ‘Tropic of Cancer,’ to the carnivalesque costume balls given in artists’ studios.” — Mona Kowalska, A Détacher

“The collection relays the feeling of being a witness to wistful scenery, like “Interiors.” seeing cherry blossoms in the moonlight on a snowy night.” — Akiko Ogawa — Derek Lam s “Dadaist cabarets, the Cubist muses, the eroticized Surrealist dreams with German punk.” — Alexandre Herchcovitch

“Fall has a Paris punk appeal. It’s about a young girl who travels the world — she is coquettish, coy.” — Stacey Bendet, Alice + Olivia

“American country homes.” — Allison Parris

“The world of tailored men’s wear with feminine touches to create a softness in the look, reminiscent of the late s Fifties.” — Dennis Basso

“The butterfly, the symbol of beauty, mystery and new karma, is portrayed in the signature minimal and romantic look of our collection.” — Andy Kim and Debbie Yoon, Andy & Debb

“The style and antics of French clowns.” — Araks Yeramyan, Araks

“21st-century woman.” — Kimora Lee Simmons, Baby Phat

“Barbie as the ultimate fashion icon and fashion chameleon, always stylishly mirroring popular culture.” — Robert Best, Barbie

“We imagined snow. We’re also focusing on the major codes and basics of the brand.” — Christophe Lemaire, Lacoste

“Mont Saint-Michel…magical medieval monastery…Gothic architecture, gargoyles, griffins…legends and fairy tales of past.” — Johanna Uurasjarvi, Leifsdottir

“I wanted to give my city girls a piece of the rain forest before it’s all gone.”— Lela Rose

“I was inspired by women who are feminine in look yet strong in character. A nod toward Thirties and Forties elegance.” — Raul Melgoza, Luca Luca

“I named my collection ‘Un Nuevo Tiempo,’ as I’m inspired by the dawning change of our new era.” — Diego Binetti, Binetti

“A little light from the darkness.” — Teddy Willoughby, Bland

“We were listening to analog-synthesizer pioneers like Jean-Michel Jarre, Klaus Schulze and Kraftwerk, and thinking about the mad world of Buckminster Fuller.” — Samantha Pleet and Eviana Hartman, Bodkin

“The collection inspires strength and elegance with sophisticated color and beauty from marble, stone and bronze.” — Brian Reyes

“There is something sexy about a person in uniform. For fall, I explore the secrets that the uniform hides.” — Carlos Campos

“Endless spatial manipulation, rich color dialogue and the possibilities of the three- dimensional geometric progressions of Sol LeWitt.” — Carlos Miele

“New York discotheque nostalgia.” — Chris Benz

“Egypt and the richness of Northern Africa.” — Christian Siriano — Francisco Costa, Calvin Klein

s Tim Hamilton 18 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009

“U-boats were my inspiration for innovative shape, movement, color, and this new search for luxury that goes beyond the expected s (underwater).” — Devi Kroell “THE MEETING,” 1953/PRESTEL RICHARD LINDNER, OCTOBER 1968; PHI BY s “Artwork by Richard Lindner.” — Andreas Melbostad, Phi “The organic spirit of nature comes together with pop colors, military influences and a touch of eclectic French style.” ROLAND BIANCHINI, L’OFFICIEL, BY BURCH RIGHTS SOCIETY; — Tory Burch

“Nomadic stripping — bare all, cover all.” — Alexander Wang MENACING A FLOWER”/ARTISTS “BAYONETS ALEXANDER CALDER, BY SARAFPOUR

— Cynthia Rowley WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009 19 WWD.COM More, More, More “Picture a woman braving a mystical and windswept terrain. Far from fear- ful, she advances into nature with a devil-may-care abandon.” — Matthew Terry, Coventry

“Geometric shapes and puzzles.” — the design team, General Idea “Functional art.” “The collection is eclectic, colorful and luminous with an ethnic-psyche- delic base.” — Custo Dalmau, Custo Barcelona — Behnaz Sarafpour “Urban glamour, in saturated jewel tones inspired by [painter] Elizabeth Peyton.” — Shaun Kearney, Cynthia Steffe

“The birth of cool. Improvisation in jazz, with inspiration taken from the early jazz world; the tuxedo-clad musicians picking up their instruments to accompany a glamorous singer.” — the creative team, Diesel Black Gold

“I was thinking about the students in Godard’s ‘La Chinoise,’ more about their attitude than what they were specifically wearing, and how Jean- Pierre Léaud puts himself together in Godard’s ‘Masculin féminin.’ I was also looking at Robert Bechtle paintings, for the color and sense of memory.” — Scott Sternberg, Band of Outsiders

“Walking down Fifth Avenue, during the fall, in the rain with my wife.” — Domenico Vacca

“Modern classics-New York chic.” — Douglas Hannant

“Aggressive.” — Victor Glemaud

“The harmony of contrasts: modern and classic, femininity and masculinity, For more sharpness and softness.” — Eunyoung Song and Shuji Wada, E.Y. Wada designers’ “Harvard during the uncertain year of 1969. The emergence of a new inspirations, freedom of dressing that [led to] upgrading of clothing and emphasizing see accessories.” — Stefan Miljanic, Gilded Age WWD.com. “A sushi book I was given. The sexy, dark, macabre Japanese fish.” — Elise Øverland

“A voyage into a fantasy play world.” — Erin Fetherston

“Loosely inspired by the 1968 Stanley Kubrick film ‘2001: A Space Odyssey,’ Spurr creates refined and realistic men’s wear for the modern man.” “I reread ‘Them: A Memoir of Parents’ by Francine — Simon Spurr du Plessix Gray, and instead of finding Tatiana slightly “The art and history of my country: in particular, Queen Isabella and Diego Velázquez’s ‘Las Meninas.’” — Frank Tell appalling, I was impressed with her elegant fortitude “Modern rustic: art, architecture and the great outdoors.” and majestic ability of self reinvention.” — Bryan Bradley, Tuleh — the design team, Generra “I am not here to repeat the past but to present the future.” — Gerlan Marcel, Gerlan Jeans

“Modern-day Mad Max.” — Nicole Kunz, Nicholas K

“A cool girl pulling couture pieces from her eccentric grandmother’s clos- NEW YORK et, from Charles James to Romeo Gigli.” — Kirk Pickersgill and Stephen Wong, Greta Constantine

INSPIRATIONS “A blend of aviator and spy; hardcore luxury.” — Pierre Morisset, G-Star ’09 “Cargo cults in the remote South Pacific islands prayed for crates and shipments of goods. I loved the idea of a cult of girls holed up in the Chelsea Hotel who obsessively hunt and gather fashion items.” collections/fall — Toni Hacker, Hayden-Harnett

“We fall into a daydream and are drawn into a mythical world.” — Junko Hirata and Atsuko Yanase, Ideeën

“The Forties, a time of war and great adversity.” — Sisi Li, Iisli

“‘Blade Runner’ — the future is mixed with the Eighties.” — Valdemar Iodice, Iodice

“The exuberant graphic patterns and eclectic style of the early 20th-century Austrian arts-and-crafts movement.” — James Coviello

“The Last Truth U Never Knew/100,000,000 shattered pieces fly.” — Jen Kao

“Industrial materials and a synthesis of the textures and colors of urban construction sites.” — Jeremy Laing

“The Persian background of our muse Minu Barati-Fischer, which led us to this Fusion Collection based between Western and Oriental cuts.” — Klaus Unrath and Ivan Strano, Unrath & Strano “Raw Urbanism.” — Max Azria, Hervé Léger “A dark and futuristic take on the New Age movement. Gems, minerals, s “The abstract art of Swiss fossils, stones and synthesizers all influenced this collection.” artist Sophie Taeuber-Arp and — Lisa Mayock and Sophie Buhai, Vena Cava her combination of vivid color “‘The Umbrellas of Cherbourg’: Catherine Deneuve is exquisitely awkward, and art forms.” straddling childhood and womanhood.” — Ashleigh Verrier, Verrier — Koi Suwannagate “The cocoon. It’s about wrapping yourself in knits of rich jewel tones, deep forest colors and opulent peacock hues.” — Kristiina Salminen, Vittadini 20 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009 NEW YORK INSPIRATIONS ’09 collections/fall

“Ali MacGraw’s unconventional simplicity and Steve McQueen’s commanding yet dignified style in ‘The Getaway.’” “A fresh look — Tommy Hilfiger at the modern, feminine wardrobe.”

— Oscar de la Renta s

“Vintage kimonos seen

at Clignancourt, Paris,s in the fall of 2008.” — Adam Lippes, Adam Adam Lippes

— Thakoon Panichgul, Thakoon BUSSE; ADAM BALL, WWW.ADAMBALLONLINE.COM SCOTT BY

s “Inspired by European folklore, fall’s story is all about soft blanketlike wrap coats over princess dresses, embellished with earthy artisanal metals and icelike jewels.” — Rebecca Taylor s “Line, proportion, Richard Serra’s imbalance, negative “To Lift, 1967.” asymmetric space, grace and antiquity.” — Ralph Rucci, Chado Ralph Rucci DIETMAR BY ERROL LE CAIN; DOO.RI BY TAYLOR PANICHGUL; OF THAKOON COURTESY MAN RAY, BY THAKOON WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009 21 WWD.COM More, More, More

“I wanted the collection to be graphic, glamorous and beautiful.” — Joseph Altuzarra

“The colors in the photographs of Olaf Otto Becker — arctic neutrals combined with shots of teal, ice green and winter white.” — Julian Louie

“Revisiting the past in order to create an interesting perspective on the fashion future.” — Julianna Bass

“The road, hitchhikers and ‘My Own Private Idaho.’” — Michael Bastian

“Dorian Gray: ‘The beauty of decay, the decay of beauty.’” — Andrew Buckler

“A belief in sacred geometry, a human desire to deﬁ ne nature through mathematics and the adoration of the female form.” — Kai Kühne

“Clean, classic silhouettes that are rich in style, design and fabric.” — Kai Milla

“The collection began with an interest in the imperial city of Vienna at the turn of the century…a cultural melting pot which produced many of the — Doo-Ri Chung, Doo.Ri intellectual and artistic impulses that shaped the 20th century.” — Robert Geller

“‘When it is dark enough, “The collection’s called ‘She Cracked’ after one of my favorite Jonathan Richman songs. I like the idea of making something beautiful out of you can see the stars.’ something broken.” — Karen Walker

— Ralph Waldo Emerson.” “The contrast of the strong architectural lines and the nature surrounding

— Max Azria ▲ Fallingwater by Frank Lloyd Wright.” — Keith Lissner

“I was inspired by the formal yet relaxed attitude in August Sander’s photographs.” — Richard Chai, men’s

“We went back to our design roots. Modern but comfortable. Colors inspired by Franck Salzwedel’s paintings.” — Tina Lutz and Marcia Patmos, Lutz & Patmos

“The collection embodies the spirit of the traditional German guild of craftsmen known as the Zimmermann. Drawing inspiration from their utilitarian costume, the silhouettes emphasize strength and masculinity.” — Johannes Faktotum

“The contrasts of masculinity and femininity. We also love the idea that glamour becomes all the more striking when touched with a stroke of rock ’n’ roll.” — Eran Elfassy and Elisa Dahan, Mackage

“An ornament does not serve as external decoration; it’s a structural element and transforms the world of everyday into ever freer rhythms.” — Meike Vollmar, Macqua “Falling leaves “Once were princes, now are thieves.” — Mara Hoffman and barren trees.” “An exploration into the purity of shape, fabric and the body, approaching — L’Wren Scott ▲ the future as a blank page.” — Matthew Ames “Focusing on the contrast between loose, feminine volume and intense warrior-like detailing. Inspiration taken from traditional Tibetan outerwear.” — Matthew Williamson

“Simplistic opulence. I found inspiration in the work of photographer Bill Henson and the life of Schiaparelli.” — Michael Angel

“Glamorous gatekeepers, Manhattan’s gallery girls serve as purveyors of culture, exuding a chic, unique style that’s as classic as it is clever.” — Michelle Smith, Milly “I’m inspired by Africa, lumberjacks “We are suggesting a new kind of opulence, of intelligent indulgence over and ﬂ appers. The blind gluttony.” — Naeem Khan clothes are cozy. “Opulent magpie.” — Nanette Lepore I’m also feeling “‘Nature never appeals to intelligence until habit and instinct are useless. for quiet, rich There is no intelligence where there is no change and no need of change.’ accessories.” — ‘The Time Machine’ by H.G. Wells.” — Joe Haller and Ian Hannula, ▲ — Isaac Mizrahi Nice Collective “Our fall collection conveys a darker sensibility with body protection and metallic elements.” — Alexa Adams and Flora Gill, Ohne Titel

“1910 to 2010, chronologically, has made me examine why we do the work we do and how to best continue it.” — John Patrick, Organic

“A modern interpretation of the Imperial Russian Gilded Age and the art “Dress No. 16: of Fabergé and the goldsmiths.” — Pamella DeVos, Pamella Roland Silk crepe with “The fusing of architecture, technology and functional minimalism in intricate front and today’s environment.” — Janice Levin-Krok, Poleci back channel “The royal courts of the Mughal dynasty.” — Tia Cibani, Ports 1961 seams; ﬂ attering peplum around hips “Brighton has light and shade, youth and history; it rocks.” and delicate tie at — Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi, Preen center back neck.” “Asexual, aseasonal, rectangular, slick palette of blacks, touches of pure

— Victoria Beckham ▲ grays and intense dark blues.” — Rad Hourani 22 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009

— Catherine Malandrino ▲ “The mood is modern nomadic life...about real clothes and lots of layers.” — Diane von Furstenberg

▲ “The collection is about protection and being covered and wrapped. It is sophisticated, sharp, sexy and tailored, with a sporty ruggedness.” ▲ “The strong, sensual, — Daniel Silver and Steven Cox, Duckie Brown stylized works of painter Tamara de Lempicka.” — Elie Tahari

— Betsey Johnson ▲

“I want to capture the spirit of joy.” — Richard Chai ▲ WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009 23 WWD.COM More, More, More “My muse for fall is a Greco-Roman statue. I was taken by the femininity 2008 MOMO, and simplicity of the drapery.” — Reem Acra

“My ancestral past. My parents, their parents. My history. My blood. Mother Russia. Her strength. Her music. Her poetry.” — Rubin Singer

“7 Quai aux Fleurs is the address in Paris where we designed the collection and the name we bestowed on it.” — Brian Wolk and Claude Morais, Rufﬁ an

“Classic style, combined with comfort and modernity.” — Sergio Davila

“I was thinking about strength, dynamic grace and majesty — all inherent in horses.” — Shelly Steffee OF COURTESY OF RICHARD CHAI; Y-3 CHAI COURTESY “We were thinking about being in New York right now in an historic “Drawing loosely time of great change and about the power of artists to make sense of their time. In terms of color, we kept coming to the work of heroes like from traditional Cy Twombly, who moved to New York in the Fifties and made his colors bleed and run and evoke the seasons….The cuts and details continue our Spanish costume, exploration of the convergence of workwear and classic tailoring.” — the design team, Loden Dager Y-3 offers a “‘If, like a Cherokee warrior, I can look at the new year as an opportunity more bold and to stand on new ground, then strength and courage are on my side.’ — contemporary Sequichie Comingdeer.” — Sophie Theallet take on “Right now, my everyday girl is going for interviews, and this season I was intrigued by pinstripes and gray ﬂ annel, so for fall I focused on bringing the ﬂ air and those two ideas together.” — Stephen Burrows

extravagance “Straying away from the gnarly skull-rocker-foil-tattoo shirt, we were of this inspired by images of rodent bones, Seventies porn, military garb… and architecture of foreign ministries. This slight shift in our collective romantic era.” thought process has also pushed us in a cleaner direction.” — Yohji Yamamoto — the design team, Monarchy ▲ and Adidas, Y-3 “My collection takes its inspiration from organic shapes and colors found in nature.” — Tadashi Shoji

“Tamara de Lempicka, the painter. New York City in the Thirties and Forties. Art Deco. Women, period. I love the women of New York.” — Alexander Terekhov, Terexov

“My inspiration is always a simple one….Using gabardine and Lycra, I create wrinkle-proof designs that mimic formalwear gone active.” — the design team, Telfar

“Inspired by the beauty of natural geometry in crystals, the collection ▲ — Narciso Rodriguez features sharp angles and straight lines, with a new focus on sharp tailoring throughout.” — Adi, Ange and Gabi, Threeasfour

“Cool tones highlighted by blue and green; an attitude that hints of renewal and optimism.” — Thuy Diep

“Tsars, enchanted birds and Russian folklore.” — Amy Smilovic, Tibi

“My world, and all that is within it, inspire me. Fabrics and textures catch my eye and come together on the mannequin.” — Toni Maticevski

“Unselﬁ sh people, beautiful spirits. ‘The Kite Runner,’ a sculpture by Korakot Aromdee that revolves around complex layering.” — Tony Cohen

“Post-Impressionist portraits, namely by Vuillard, Van Gogh and Modigliani.” — Tracy Reese

“The French have four words for it: je ne sais quoi.” — John Whitledge, Trovata

“I was inspired by the attitude, style, roughness and competitive nature of WWII sky ﬁ ghters, who actually saw combat as a sport. This rivalry drove me to play out the good-guys-versus-bad-guys theme in color and fabric choices — the Black Barons versus the Blue Bombers. Who wins? You choose. They’re both ﬂ y, so you can’t lose.” — André Benjamin, Benjamin Bixby

“A mingling of memory lane and runway, my Fifties-ﬂ air fall collection has a joie de vivre for the modern-day Audrey Hepburn.” — Wenlan Chia, Twinkle by Wenlan “Marchesa “Handsome women.” — Patrick Ervell “Rita Ackermann had an Eighties leather dress that she painted, from brings a touch of which she made an exclusive print for us and we designed an updated enchantment to a version.” — Thuy Pham and Miho Aoki, United Bamboo “Nothingness.” — Vivienne Tam

collection full of “Body. Conﬁ guration. Reconstruction. Shifted. Lifted. Manipulated. misty colors and Repeated. Replaced…” — Victoria Bartlett, VPL “‘Rumble Fish’ meets ‘Thelma & Louise’. True Americana but with a airy textiles.” modern and contemporary edge.” — Marcella Lindeberg, William Rast — Georgina Chapman, Marchesa “We love ﬂ owers and rep ties and Rasputin the most.” — Johnson Hartig and Cindy Greene, Libertine 24 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009

6 p.m.: Vocce Couture, Waldorf-Astoria, 301 Park Avenue 6 p.m.: Loden Dager (women’s and men’s), The General Society, 20 West 44th Street 6-8 p.m.: Frank Tell, Tribeca Grand Hotel, 2 Avenue of the Americas Show Calendar 6-8 p.m.: Poleci, Poleci store, 32 Following is the schedule for New York Fashion Week. Times and locations are accurate as of press time, but subject to change, Gansevoort Street and attendees are encouraged to conﬁ rm all information. Listings are courtesy of Ruth Finley’s Fashion Calendar. 6-8 p.m.: Johannes Faktotum, West Chelsea Arts Building, 526 West Saturday, Feb. 14 2 p.m.: Tunji Dada, 477 Broadway 26th Street 10 a.m.: Lacoste, The Tent, Bryant Park 3 p.m.: Patrik Ervell (men’s), Pier 59 Studios, West Side Highway 7 p.m.: Monarchy, The THOMAS IANNACCONE 10 a.m.-7 p.m.: Koi Suwannagate, Morgans Hotel (penthouse), at 18th Street Promenade, Bryant Park BY 237 Madison Avenue 3 p.m.: Mattel/Barbie, The Tent, Bryant Park 7-8 p.m.: Threeasfour, Greene 11 a.m.: United Bamboo (women’s and men’s), The Altman 3 p.m.: Karen Walker, Altman Building, 135 West 18th Street Naftali Gallery, 516 West 26th PHOTOS Building, 135 West 18th Street 4 p.m.: Richard Chai Men, 107 Grand Street Street 11 a.m.: Edition by Georges Chakra, The Promenade, Bryant Park 4 p.m.: Andres Aquino, Waldorf-Astoria, 301 Park Avenue 7-9 p.m.: Elise Øverland, Drive- Noon: Ohne Titel, 123 West 18th Street 4-5 p.m.: Vena Cava, Eyebeam, 540 West 21st Street In Studios, 443 West 18th 1 p.m.: VPL by Victoria Bartlett, Focus Studio, 599 Eleventh Avenue 4-6 p.m.: Spurr, Milk Studios, 450 West 15th Street Street 1 p.m.: Andy & Debb, The Salon, Bryant Park 5 p.m.: Alexander Wang, Roseland Ballroom, 239 West 52nd Street 8 p.m.: Rufﬁ an, New Dance 1-2 p.m.: James Coviello, 13 West Ninth Street 5-7 p.m.: Buckler, Buckler, 93 Grand Street Group Studio, 305 West 2 p.m.: Adam Adam Lippes, The Promenade, Bryant Park 6 p.m.: Verrier, The Salon, Bryant Park 38th Street

Mercedes-Benz is a sponsor at Bryant Park.

8:30 p.m.: Almond Tree Designs by Linda Ellis, Waldorf-Astoria, 301 Park Avenue 9 p.m.: Swaim and Christina Hutson (women’s and men’s), TBA

Sunday, Feb. 15 9 a.m.: Victoria Beckham, Waldorf Towers, 100 East 50th Street 10 a.m.: Lela Rose, The Salon, Bryant Park 11 a.m.: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, The Altman Building, 135 West 18th Street 11 a.m.: Nicholas K; Sergio Davila; & Mara Hoffman, The Promenade, Bryant Park 11 a.m.-1 p.m.: Tom Scott, TBA 11 a.m.-1 p.m.: Reem Acra, 730 Fifth the wardrobe international Avenue Noon: Walter, 265 West 37th Street fashion trade show Noon-1 p.m.: Band of Outsiders/Boy, 408 Broadway 1 p.m.: DKNY, 711 Greenwich Street 1-3 p.m.: Unconditional, Glass House, 545 West 25th Street february 21-23 1-3 p.m.: Shelly Steffee, 34 Gansevoort Street fall-winter 09/10 2 p.m.: Jeremy Laing, 24th Street Loft, 148 West 24th Street thetrainnewyork.com 2 p.m.: Hervé Léger by Max Azria, The Promenade, Bryant Park 2-4 p.m.: Araks, Industria Studios, 89 Jane Street and introducing: 3 p.m.: Calvin Klein Collection Men’s, 205 West 39th Street 3 p.m.: Thuy, The Salon, Bryant Park 3 p.m.: Matthew Ames, 58 West 40th accessories Street 4 p.m.: Diane von Furstenberg, The Tent, Bryant Park 4-6 p.m.: Karen Sabag, Hosfelt Buyers Contact Gallery, 531 West 36th Street Giovanna 5 p.m.: Y-3 (women’s and men’s), Pier 40, West Side Highway at West [email protected] Houston Street 5 p.m.: Binetti, Focus Studio, 599 Eleventh Avenue Exhibitors Contact - Usa 5-6 p.m.: Twinkle by Wenlan, Classic Michael Car Club, 250 Hudson Street 6 p.m.: Jonathan Saunders, Skyline, [email protected] 465 10th Avenue 6 p.m.: Akiko Ogawa, The Salon, Terminal Stores Bryant Park Exhibitors Contact - Europe & Asia 6 p.m.: Bloom Boom Boom, Waldorf- Sophie 269 11th Avenue Astoria, 301 Park Avenue 6-7:30 p.m.: Susan Cianciolo, Tela [email protected] (bet. 27th & 28th St.) Design Studio, 31 Little West 12th Street New York, NY 10001 6-8 p.m.: Tim Hamilton, TBA 7 p.m.: Carlos Campos, The Altman Building, 135 West 18th Street 7 p.m.: Tuleh, N.Y. Design Center, 200 Lexington Avenue 7 p.m.: Erin Fetherston, The Promenade, Bryant Park 8 p.m.: Miss Sixty, The Tent, Bryant Park 8 p.m.: New Money by Alisha Trimble, The Bowery Electric, 327 Bowery 8:30 p.m.: Christina Nitopi Menswear, WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009 25 WWD.COM

Waldorf-Astoria, 301 Park Avenue Building, 135 West 18th Street 7 p.m.: G-Star, Hammerstein Ballroom, 311 West 34th Street 9 p.m.: E.Y. Wada, The Salon, Bryant 11 a.m.: Allison Parris, Greenhouse, 150 Varick Street 7 p.m.: Don the Verb, Hotel on Rivington Thor, 107 Rivington Street Park 11 a.m.: Matthew Williamson, The Promenade, Bryant Park 7 p.m.: A Detacher, The Altman Building, 135 West 18th Street 11 a.m.: Mulberry, Soho House Library, 29-35 Ninth Avenue 7 p.m.: The Garment Industry Development Corp., Twenty Five, Monday, Feb. 16 Noon: Rodarte, TBA Hudson Theater, 145 West 44th Street 9 a.m.: Farah Angsana Couture, The Salon, 1 p.m.: Derek Lam, 635 West 42nd Street 8 p.m.: Baby Phat by Kimora Lee Simmons & KLS Collection, Bryant Park 1 p.m.: Pamella Roland, The Salon, Bryant Park Gotham Hall, 1356 Broadway 9-10:30 a.m.: Alejandro Ingelmo, 25 Mercer 1:30 p.m.: Peta, Bryant Park Hotel, 40 West 40th Street 8 p.m.: Domenico Vacca (women’s and men’s), The Salon, Bryant Street 2 p.m.: Diesel Black Gold, The Tent, Bryant Park Park 9 a.m.-5 p.m.: Natorious by Josie Natori, 2 p.m.: Behnaz Sarafpour, Exit Art, 475 10th Avenue 8 p.m.: Nice Collective (women’s and men’s), Angel Orensanz Bryant Park Hotel, 40 West 40th Street 3 p.m.: Dennis Basso, The Promenade, Bryant Park Foundation, 172 Norfolk Street 9 a.m.-5 p.m.: Lamberston Truex (press preview), 3 p.m.: Coventry, Cedar Lake, 547 West 26th Street 8-9 p.m.: Philosophy Di Alberta Ferretti, Eyebeam Gallery, 540 230 West 17th Street 4 p.m.: Marc by Marc Jacobs, N.Y. State Armory, 68 Lexington West 21st Street 10 a.m.: Carolina Herrera, The Tent, Bryant Park Avenue 9 p.m.: Narciso Rodriguez, The Tent, Bryant Park 10 a.m.-5 p.m.: Brooks Brothers (women’s, men’s 5 p.m.: Trovata (women’s and men’s), Focus, 599 11th Avenue 9 p.m.: AZ Araujo Swim Collection, Nikki Beach Midtown, 151 and accessories), Brooks Brothers, 346 Madison 5 p.m.: Chocheng, The Salon, Bryant Park East 50th Street Avenue 5-7:30 p.m.: Joanna Mastroianni, 230 West 38th Street 10 a.m.-6 p.m.: Helen Yarmak, 730 Fifth Avenue 6 p.m.: Max Azria, The Tent, Bryant Park Wednesday, Feb. 18 11 a.m.: Zero + Maria Cornejo, Robert Miller Gallery, 6-9 p.m.: Kelly Bergin, Salmagundi Club, 47 Fifth Avenue 9 a.m.: J.Mendel, The Salon, Bryant Park 524 West 26th Street 6:30-7:30 p.m. and 8-10 p.m.: Propr, Highline Ballroom, 43 West 10 a.m.: Nanette Lepore, The Promenade, Bryant Park 11 a.m.: Carlos Miele, The Promenade, Bryant Park 16th Street 11 a.m.: Michael Kors (women’s and men’s), The Tent, Bryant Park 11 a.m.- 1 p.m.: Organic by John Patrick, CHI, 128 7 p.m.: Mario Moya, DJT Fine Art Gallery, 231 10th Avenue Noon: Richard Chai, The Salon, Bryant Park West 37th Street 7 p.m.: TIBI, The Promenade, Bryant Park 1 p.m. and 2 p.m.: Oscar de la Renta, 583 Park Avenue Noon: Jill Stuart, Astor Hall, Continued on page 26 New York Public Library, 42nd Street and Fifth Avenue Noon-1:30 p.m.: Vittadini, International Center of Photography, 1113 Avenue of the Americas 1 p.m.: Gerlan Jeans, 306 Bowery 1-2 p.m.: Tracy Reese, The Salon, Bryant Park 1-4 p.m.: Tamara Pogosian, 212 Restaurant, 133 East 65th Street 1:30-3 p.m.: Ideen, 725 Washington Street 1:30-4 p.m.: Lutz & Patmos, 425 West 13th Street 2 p.m.: Donna Karan Collection, 711 Greenwich Street 2-7 p.m.: Rozae Nichols & Rozae by Rozae Nichols, Susan Inglett Gallery, 522 West 24th Street 3 p.m.: Thakoon, Eyebeam, 540 West 21st Street 3-5 p.m.: Yigal Azrouël, 408 West 14th Street 3-5 p.m.: Corpus (women’s and men’s), The Bowery Hotel, 335 Bowery 4 p.m.: Yeohlee, 225 West 35th Street 4-5 p.m.: General Idea (men’s), Focus Studio, 599 11th Avenue 4-5 p.m.: Luca Luca, Plaza Hotel, 768 Fifth Avenue 4-6 p.m.: Betsey Johnson, 498 Seventh Avenue 4-6 p.m.: Bodkin, Horticultural Society, 148 West 37th Street 5 p.m.: Z Zegna, Pier 90, 711 12th Avenue 5 p.m.: Tony Cohen, The Salon, Bryant Park 5 p.m.: Cynthia Rowley, The Jane Hotel, 113 Jane Street 5 p.m.: Toni Maticevski, The Altman Building, 135 West 18th Street 5-6 p.m.: Altuzarra, Andrew Kreps Gallery, 525 West 22nd Street 5-7 p.m.: Alice + Olivia, 80 West 40th Street 6 p.m.: Terexov, The Promenade, Bryant Park 6-7 p.m.: Elie Tahari (women’s and men’s rtw), Elie Tahari, 11 West 42nd Street 6-7:30 p.m.: Michael Bastian (men’s), 637 West 27th Street 6-8 p.m.: Generra (women’s and men’s), The Event Space, 122 West 26th Street 6- 8 p.m.: Chris Benz, 169-175 10th Avenue 7 p.m.: William Rast, The Tent, Bryant Park 8 p.m.: Marc Jacobs, N.Y. State Armory, 68 Lexington Avenue 8-10 p.m.: Jill Platner, Elisa Jimenez, Moe Nadal, 113 Crosby Street

Tuesday, Feb. 17 9 a.m.-6 p.m.: Sears/Kmart Fall Fashion Preview, Bryant Park Hotel, 40 West 40th Street 9 a.m.: Cynthia Steffe, The Salon, Bryant Park 9 a.m.-6 p.m.: Temperley London, 453 Broome Street 10 a.m.: Badgley Mischka, The Tent, Bryant Park 10 a.m.: Sophie Theallet, Altman 26 WWD, WEEKEND, FEBRUARY 14, 2009 WWD.COM

11 a.m.: Malandrino, Rainbow Room, 30 Rockefeller Plaza Noon: Phi, 76 Ninth Avenue Noon: Unrath & Strano, Eyebeam, 540 West 21st Street Noon: Jerome & Dreyfuss, 1216 Lexington Avenue 1 p.m.: Rebecca Taylor, The Salon, Bryant Park 1 p.m.: Douglas Hannant, Plaza Hotel, 768

photos by thomas iannaccone thomas by photos Fifth Avenue 1-3 p.m.: Julian Louie, Drive-In Studios, 443 West 18th Street 1-5 p.m.: Adrienne Landau, 519 Eighth Avenue 1-8 p.m.: Ardistia New York, Hudson Hotel, 356 West 58th Street 2 p.m.: Isaac Mizrahi, New York Public Library, 42nd Street and Fifth Avenue 2 p.m.: Macqua, Eyebeam, 540 West 21st Street 3 p.m.: Ports 1961, The Promenade, Bryant Park 4 p.m. and 5 p.m.: Calvin Klein Collection (women’s), 205 West 39th Street 4-6 p.m.: Leifsdottir, 209 West 38th Street 4:30-6 p.m.: Laurance Rassin, K. Murphy Amphitheater, Seventh Avenue at 27th Street 5-7 p.m.: Naeem Khan, 260 West 36th Street 5-8 p.m.: Magalis Garcia, 148 West 24th Street 6 p.m.: Christian Siriano, The Salon, Bryant Park 6 p.m.: Kai Kuhne, Eyebeam, 540 West 21st Street 6-8 p.m.: Hayden-Harnett (rtw and accessories), Chelsea Hotel, 222 West 23rd Street 6-8 p.m.: Libertine, 187 Lafayette Street Prepping 7 p.m.: Custo Barcelona (women’s and men’s), the tents in The Promenade, Bryant Park Bryant Park. 7-9 p.m.: Leanne Marshall, 409 West 39th Street 7-9 p.m.: Katy Rodriguez, 401 Projects, 401 Continued from page 25 5-7 p.m.: Michael Angel, Twelve21, 12 West West 21st Street West Street 2 p.m.: 1909 Victorinox, Celeste Bartos, New 21st Street 6:30 p.m.: Oumlil, Audi Forum, 250 Park Avenue 7-11 p.m.: Sioloonim, 226 Fifth Avenue York Public Library 5-7 p.m.: Vivienne Tam, Vivienne Tam Boutique, 6:30-8:30 p.m.: Savant, Maccarone Gallery, 630 7:15 p.m.: Star Chic Easy Couture, N.Y. Marriott 3 p.m.: 3.1 Phillip Lim, The Tent, Bryant Park 40 Mercer Street Greenwich Street Marquis, 1535 Broadway 3-6 p.m.: Carmen Marc Valvo, Citrine, 59 West 5:30-6:30 p.m.: Devi Kroell (rtw and accessories 7 p.m.: Anna Sui, The Tent, Bryant Park 8 p.m.: Zac Posen, The Tent, Bryant Park 21st Street collection), Milk Studios, 450 West 15th Street 7-8 p.m.: Dana Lee, Dactyl, 64 Grand Street 9 p.m.: Nico & Adrian, The Jeffrey Stein Salon, 4 p.m.: Alexandre Herchcovitch, The Salon, 5:30-6:30 p.m.: Tory Burch, Prince George 8 p.m.: Stanley Adams, 232 West 30th Street 685 Third Avenue Bryant Park Ballroom, 14 East 28th Street 8 p.m.: Mackage (women’s and men’s 4-5 p.m.: Marchesa, Chelsea Art Museum, 556 6 p.m.: Milly by Michelle Smith, The outerwear), The Salon, Bryant Park Friday, Feb. 20 West 22nd Street Promenade, Bryant Park 8 p.m.: Richie Rich, Waldorf-Astoria, Grand 9 a.m.: Project Runway, The Promenade, Bryant 5 p.m.: Doo.Ri, Milk Gallery, 450 West 15th Street 6 p.m.: Juan Carlos Obando, Eyebeam, 540 Ballroom Park 8 p.m.: Untitled 11.11, The 9 a.m.-Noon: Iisli, 25 Bond Street Pink Elephant, 527 West 10 a.m. and 11 a.m.: Ralph Lauren Collection, 27th Street Skylight Studio, 275 Hudson Street 8 p.m.: Julianna Bass, 336 Noon: Tadashi Shoji, The Salon, Bryant Park FASHION WEEK SHOW SPECIAL West 37th Street Noon: Stephen Burrows, Dex New York, 224 9 p.m.: Proenza Schouler, West 30th Street WWD Professional Subscription 508 West 26th Street Noon-3 p.m.: Alabama Chanin, The Firehouse, 604 East 11th Street Thursday, Feb. 19 1 p.m.: L’Wren Scott, TBA 9 a.m.: Vera Wang, 158 2 p.m.: Chado Ralph Rucci, The Tent, Bryant Park Mercer Street 2-4 p.m.: Jen Kao, Milk Studios, 450 West 15th Stay on top of 10 a.m.: Tommy Hilfiger Street (women’s and men’s), The 3 p.m.: Rad Hourani, 201 Mulberry Street Tent, Bryant Park 3 p.m.: 4XF, Xes Lounge, 157 West 24th Street the fashion 11 a.m.: Brian Reyes, The 3 p.m.: Mon Ari 1962, 157 West 24th Street industry Promenade, Bryant Park 3-5 p.m.: B Michael, TBA ANYTIME. ANYWHERE. Perfect Together Your Business and Our Full-Service Factoring Programs: Perfect Together. At Sterling Factors, we understand our clients’ challenges and create customized banking and ﬁnancing solutions to help your company Let us design a subscription grow. Best of all, you’ll be working with a senior decision-maker program for your company. Contact who can move as quickly as your business does. Richard Franz at 212-790-4457 or Sterling offers a full suite of services, including: • Traditional Factoring [email protected] • Credit Protection • Accounts Receivable Management Service • Letters of Credit • Inventory Financing We’re part of Sterling National Bank—The Business Bank— and our job is to help you grow. To learn more about how we can help your business succeed, please contact John La Lota, President, Sterling Factors, at (212) 575-4415 or via email at [email protected]. Go to www.subnow.com/wo/fto for your A Subsidiary of Sterling National Bank – The Business Bank – www.SterlingNationalBank.com ONE MONTH FREE TRIAL OF WWD.COM

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