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A Sommelier’s Guide to Single-Malt Scotch

Dave Eriksen teaches DAVE ERIKSEN Wine Foundations and Dining Room Manage- cotland is an amazingly beautiful and “i couldn’t run a program without Scotch as ment at the Professional friendly country steeped in tradition, much as i couldn’t without Cognac; it would be Culinary Institute in patriotism, and, of course, Scotch whis- incomplete,” says Carl Grubbs, wine director at Campbell, Calif. His background in restaurant ky, the blood that fl ows through its cul- Local Kitchen & Wine Merchant, Oola Restau- tural veins. Known to the world as Scotch and S rant & Bar, and Sushi Groove in San Francisco. and event management has led him into the wine to the Scottish people simply as (spelled “in a fi ne-dining environment, the guest expects industry. He coordinates without the “e”), this grain spirit is more syn- a range of spirits, as well as a range of styles to the South Bay Advanced onymous with its place of origin than any other choose from within that spirit category.” Study Group under Da- beverage in the world. And the united States, A single-malt Scotch, regarded as the elite vid Glancy, MS, CWE, according to the Association, the of the whisky category, is similar to a single- and is scheduled to sit for Edinburgh-based industry alliance, is its most vineyard wine in that each label is made from the Advanced exam of lucrative export market. That translates into “a one particular type of malted barley by one dis- the Court of Master Som- demand from our customer to make sure that tillery. Single malts vary in age, quality, and rar- meliers in October.

we make it available to them.” ity, command prices similar to those of the most courtesyPhoto the of Scotch Whisky Association

58 September 2009 The Ring of Brodgar on Orkney island (left top); Cairn- gorm National Park in the Scottish Highlands (above); Highlands landscape (left middle); Castle Moil (left bot- tom) and Kilt Rock waterfall (below) on the isle of Skye. Photos © Alfiofer | Dreamstime.com (top left), R.M. Hayman | Dreamstime.com (top right), Michal Kowalski | Dreamstime.com (middle), Anthony Dodd (bottom left), Boris Buschardt (bottom right)

Sommelier Journal 59 expensive wines on many lists, and attract a de- area; things are not as tightly regulated here as vout and knowledgeable following—all of which in many wine regions.” can make things difficult for the sommelier who The most important factor affecting quality does not possess at least a basic familiarity with is probably the water source, because it is used single-malt arcana. to germinate the barley, create the “wort” (the “Really, it is difficult to ‘talk’ a customer liquid drawn off the mash), and “cut” the final into Scotch,” says Andrea Fulton-Higgins, wine product before bottling. Many distilleries are consultant for Bella Vino Vita in Hopewell, Ore. located near their own natural water supplies, “It’s more like a private club. Either you are a but not all use local water; Auchentoshan, for in- member or you aren’t.” stance, is a Lowlands distillery that gets its water from a river in the South Highlands. Barley is the other main ingredient in Scotch terroir whisky. Although the quality of the barley is af- Although there is no doubt that Scotch fected by where it is grown, much of the grain’s Bruichladdich still house whisky is unique among the and bour- unique qualities are stripped during the boiling, in (above); peat (below); burning peat for bons of the world, there is an ongoing debate fermentation, and distillation processes. In ad- drying barley (bottom about whether the concept of terroir applies to dition, most distilleries purchase their barley left); Highlands stream the whiskies of . As Alan Murray, MS, from large suppliers such as Simpsons, which (below center); barley field (below right). typically introduces the subject to his Certified sources grain from all over the country. Sommelier class at the Professional Culinary In- The peat used as fuel for drying the barley stitute in Campbell, Calif.: “Welcome to the gray does have a profound affect on the flavor of the whisky, dictated by where it was harvested. To- day, however, only a handful of distilleries, in- cluding and Laphroaig, actually malt their own barley using local peat. Even these producers do not malt enough of their own bar- ley for their entire output. Photos © Bruichladdich Tt | Dreamstime.com (top), (bottom center); photos courtesy the of Scotch Whisky Association (bottom left and right)

60 September 2009 Single-Malt Scotch

Stacked whisky barrels.

The tradition of stacking barrels three rows high in a stone dunnage building with earthen floors, instead of 12-plus rows high in Eilean Donan castle in the Highlands (above); Glenmorangie stills (below right). large, concrete-floor warehouses, provides the humidity that helps mature the casks by allow- Highlands: Geographically the largest region, ing moisture to make its way in. The spirit ages the Highlands include the islands that surround more slowly on the west coast of Scotland, with the north and west of Scotland, with the excep- its consistently cooler weather, than on the east tion of Islay, which is considered its own region. coast. The problem is that not every producer Despite the vastness of the area, most Highland ages its barrels in the same place as its distillery, malts tend to be floral because of the wild-heather which is the location indicated on the label. As fields that the water runs through before it an example, the Caol Ila distillery, on the island reaches the distilleries. The best-known produc- of Islay, warehouses most of its barrels on the ers here are Dalwhinnie, Glengoyne, Glenmor- mainland. angie, and Oban. Strict definitions aside, there is still a “cul- Speyside: The smell of whisky fills the air in the tural terroir” embodied by whiskies from each Spey Valley, which is densely populated with region in Scotland—whether because of local distilleries. Roughly 50% of all Scotch is pro- conditions or more stylistic traditions. Although duced in this small subregion of the Highlands, there are exceptions to these broad regional de- mainly from the watershed of the river Spey. scriptions (for reasons described above), the fol- Speyside whiskies are often described as fruity, lowing generalizations can be made. with a hint of peat that comes more from the Lowlands: The Lowlands produce the lightest water than from peat-dried barley, as in islay. style of Scotch, one that makes a great aperitif. Balvenie, Glenfarclas, , Glenlivet, This is the second-largest region in terms of land Glenrothes, Macallan, and Mortlach are the top mass, but has only three remaining distilleries: producers. Auchentoshan, Bladnoch, and Glenkinchie, all of which traditionally make unpeated whiskies. Photos © Twickey | Dreamstime.com (top left), Alfiofer | Dreamstime.com (top right), Kurt Cotoaga | Dreamstime.com (bottom left), Giorgio Perbellini (bottom right)

Sommelier Journal 61 types of scotch whisky Every Scotch whisky is made from some kind of grain, such as barley, maize, or wheat. To be called a Scotch whisky, it must have been produced in Scotland and aged at least three years be- fore bottling, with an alcohol level of at least 40% upon bottling. Grain Scotch whisky is based on a combination of malted barley and unmalted barley, wheat, or maize, together with yeast and water. Produced by continuous distillation in a patent or Coffey still, it is typically a lighter spirit. Blended whiskies such as Dewars and J&B Rare are a combina- tion of malt and grain whiskies. Most blends will contain a larger proportion of than malt, although those with higher malt contents are typically more costly. Single malts, as the name implies, are produced solely from malted barley and are distilled in pot stills at single facilities. This hands-on batch-distilling process results in a higher-quality product that is often more expensive. A single-malt Scotch is almost always named after the distillery in which it is produced, Glenfiddich distillery even when the newly distilled spirit is purchased in bulk and in Speyside (above); an aged in the barrel by an independent bottler such as Gordon & Aberdeenshire distillery Islands: Whiskies from the Islands tend to have MacPhail. (below left); Lochranza castle on the island of Ar- a salty or briny character derived from the prox- Blended malt Scotch whisky contains no grain whisky and is ran (below right). imity of the distilleries to the Atlantic Ocean. made from a combination of single-malt whiskies, typically from Famous producers include Talisker on the isle more than one distillery. For example, Green of Skye, Arran on the island of Arran, and High- Label is predominantly Talisker, but it also contains portions of single malts from Linkwood, Cragganmore, and Caol Ila. land Park (the most northerly distillery in Scot- These blended malts are also known as “vatted malts” or “pure land) on Orkney. malts”—designations that can be misleading to consumers. Islay: These whiskies are often higher in phe- nols because of the heavy peat used in drying the malted barley, resulting in intensely smoky a few distilleries, most notably Springbank. Be- aromas and spicy flavors. Drinkers typically ei- cause of its peninsular location, it offers flavors ther love them or hate them. The smokiest are closest to those of the Islands. from Ardbeg, , and Laphroaig. Lighter- peated islay malts include Bruichladdich and ; in between are Bowmore and Whisky service Caol ila. You will soon see malts from the re- “Scotch drinkers are the philosophers of vived distillery of . drinkers,” says Fulton-Higgins, “and they ap- Campbeltown: Once considered the epicenter of preciate it if you respect that. i would always Scotch whisky, Campbeltown now contains only teach my servers to know the brands we didn’t carry as well as the ones we did, and to know the difference between the unique single malts and blends.” This intense customer loyalty makes it especially important to understand the variety of ways to serve Scotch. Photos © Lukáš Hejtman | Dreamstime.com David (top), Woods | Dreamstime.com (bottom left), Matthew Hart | Dreamstime.com (bottom right)

62 September 2009 Single-Malt Scotch the Scotch, and assist the guest as necessary with the ice and water. Steven McBride, operations director at Òran Mór Whisky Bar in , adds that “whisky should always be poured in front of the guest. This not only ensures they are getting the tipple they ordered, but is a more interactive type of service that adds to the guest experience.” Such tableside service has long been popular for mar- tinis, and many guest-conscious establishments are adopting the same practices with Scotch and Earl’s Palace in Kirkwall on Orkney island. other spirits. At the Uisge Beatha bar in Glasgow, man- ager Stephen Little (like every other barman in Scotland) emphatically insists that a single malt Choosing the glass should never be served over ice. “Ice will essen- Just as with fine wines, glassware makes a tially freeze your taste buds and close up the aro- difference in the enjoyment of Scotch. Most bars mas and flavors in the whisky,” says Little. “Nor or restaurants serve Scotch in rocks glasses or should one dilute the malt with a heavy splash of cut tumblers; some use brandy snifters. But if water from a bar gun.” Instead, it is customary the establishment has gone so far as to provide for the server to provide a small glass or ceramic different stems for white, sparkling, Burgundy, pitcher of filtered water, from which you pour and Bordeaux wines, then why not offer sepa- only a few drops of water into your dram. This rate glassware for Scotch? Today’s major glass reduces the solubility of the esters, thus increas- and crystal producers have created products for ing the volatility and power of floral or fruity virtually every type of alcoholic beverage on the aromas. On the other hand, the smoky-peaty market. phenols lose the intensity that fans look for in For tasting, judging, and serving to experi- peaty malts. enced Scotch-loving guests, use a tulip-shaped As we all know, guests come in with their glass, which will consolidate and intensify the own desires and expectations, irrespective of esters and aromas. Look for the 6-ounce Riedel “expert” opinion. if a guest chooses to ignore Vinum Cognac glass, which dips in tradition and order a single-malt Scotch on the for a slight tulip and flares out at the end, or the 7 rocks, bring a silver tray carrying the proper Spiegelau Whisky Snifter Premium (9 /8 ounces) empty service glass, the bottle to pour from, a for service neat or with a drop of water. The 1 rocks glass with ice, a small pitcher of water, and Spiegelau Expert Tasting glass (9 /6 ounces) is a ice tongs. Present the bottle for approval, pour comparable, less expensive option. Expert whis-

Riedel Vinum Cognac Hennessy glass (above right middle); Bruichladdich (below left), Bowmore (below right), and Laphroaig (bottom right) distilleries on Islay. Photos © Juliane Jacobs (top left), Niklas Åberg (bottom right bottom) | Dreamstime.com, Bruichladdich (bottom left); photos courtesy Riedel of Crystal (middle Bowmore top), (bottom right top)

Sommelier Journal 63 sommeliers’ recommended single-malt scotches the angel’s share Ledaig 10 Year Old, Islands (Mull) $45 After a Scotch whisky is distilled, it is casked at an alcohol level upward of 63%. As the spirit ages, Relatively unknown single malt balanced toward elegance and subtlety. A whiff of 2-2.5% of the whisky evaporates each year—known peat appears in the aromas, though the mouthfeel is delicate and complex, with hints as “the angel’s share”— amounting to a total of of pepper. A great way to introduce a newcomer to the world of single-malt Scotch. some 20 million liters per year nationwide. This Importer: Bacchus Importers Ltd., www.bacchusimportersltd.com. evaporation reduces the alcohol by volume to Mark Buzan, Wine Director, Highlands Inn, Carmel, Calif. roughly 58% after 12 years, 56% after 18 years, and 54% after 25 years. The whisky is then “cut” with Talisker 10 Year Old, Islands (Skye) $60 distilled water to bring the alcohol down to a more It’s not as powerful as other Island single malts, but every bit as fl avorful. I enjoy this palatable level. With extended aging of 40 or 50 Scotch neat; it is my ‘everyday single-malt Scotch.’ Very appealing. Importer: , years, a whisky reduces down to 40-46% alcohol; www.diageo.com. when a distillery ages a Scotch that long, it can fetch Reggie Narito, MS, Director of Training/Prestige Account Specialist, Southern prices of $2,000-5,000 per bottle because of the Wine & Spirits, San Jose, Calif. time and care it took to mature the cask. In summa- ry, the longer a whisky is reduced in cask, the more Lagavulin 16 Year Old, Islay $70 rich and concentrated the flavors in comparison to Well balanced, with fl avors of smoke, Sherry, and salt and a pleasurable, viscous dilution with water. mouthfeel. Importer: Diageo, www.diageo.com. Jeff Bareilles, Wine Director, Manresa, Los Gatos, Calif. Springbank 9 Year Old Marsala Wood, Campbeltown $70* ky journalist Michael Jackson has developed the I love all the Scotches from Springbank in Campbeltown; they are elegant and powerful, curvaceous Whisky Connoisseurs glass, com- yet smooth, and remind me of Armagnac, which I also love. This Marsala bottling has plete with a glass lid for containing aromas be- hints of chocolate and rich red fruit. Importer: Preiss Imports, www.preissimports.com. tween sips. Laura Maniec, MS, Director of Wine and Spirits, B.R. Guest Restaurants, New York Because the tulip shape can be overpower- ing for those not accustomed to the intensity of Laphroaig 15 Year Old, Islay $85 the spirit, a more diverse clientele would be bet- Perfectly structured fi ligree of peaty smoke, caramel sweetness, and sea salt, with a ter served by the more cylindrical Riedel Over- long, soothing fi nish. Importer: Laphroaig Import Company, Deerfi eld, Ill. ture Bourbon (7 ounces) or the Riedel Vinum Jeff Bareilles Single (7 ounces), which is straight The Arran Malt Arran Hardy Napoleon Cognac Cask Finish, with a fl ared lip. As an alternative to the clas- Islands (Arran) $90* sic tumbler, Spiegelau offers the larger Whisky Fruity upon pouring, with buttery, oaky, bacon notes and a hint of spice. After a bit of Tumbler (12 ounces) from its Special Glasses time in the glass, it blossoms into a creamy, honey, vanilla-laden treat with a semisweet line for unique service, neat or on the rocks. fi nish. Importer: A. Hardy USA, Ltd., www.ahardyusa.com. Erin Herendeen-Hill, Associate Wine Manager, Pebble Beach Company, Pebble Beach, Calif. Modern trends Bowmore 18 Year Old, Islay $100 Glenfi ddich pioneered unblended whiskies This is dramatic and full-fl avored, with those peat and iodine characteristics that make in the early 1960s, which means the single-malt Islay single malts so unique. Add a splash of water to smooth out the fl avors a little— industry is relatively young. The recent trend is but man, it’s good! Importer: Skyy Spirits, www.skyyspirits.com. toward increasing the variety of products being Reggie Narito, MS marketed. Some distilleries are selling “cask- Macallan 18 Year Old, Highlands $140 strength” whiskies that have not been cut with Rich, full-bodied, and spicy, with orange-peel and cinnamon notes followed by power- water before bottling, resulting in much higher ful Sherried oak, dried fruits, fi g, and tobacco. Smoother than the 12-year; better bal- alcohol levels—as high as 63%. Some are bot- anced and more enjoyable than the 25-year (which is more than three times the price). tling “single-cask” or “single-vintage” versions, Importer: Remy Amerique, New York. each of which is a limited release from one bar- Dave Eriksen rel or year (dated from the time of distillation). Laphroaig 25 Year Old, Islay $400* Another relatively new practice, initiated by Glenmorangie, is to age, or fi nish aging, the The Laphroaig house style is forthright and honest. The aromas and fl avors of Islay peat make their mark on this rich and robust whisky. Its texture is round and whisky in different types of barrels. The forest full, with an almost oily feel that prolongs the fi nish, again showcasing that tangy where the wood came from is less important Islay peatiness that makes Laphroaig—well, Laphroaig! Importer: Laphroaig Import than the type of wine or spirit for which the bar- Company, Deerfi eld, Ill. rel was previously used. Most malts are aged Mark Buzan in American bourbon casks, which are readily Prices are current estimated retail. available because bourbon must, by law, be aged *Limited availability in the united States. in new white-oak barrels. These casks allow

64 September 2009 Single-Malt Scotch key producers are not distilled at low temperatures, which can strip spirits of much of their character. Signato- region pronunciation ry is an independent bottler—similar to a négo- Lowlands ciant—that produces top-quality single malts by Auchentoshan OKK-en-tosh-en purchasing the distilled spirits and aging them Bladnoch BLAD-nock in its own cellars until bottling. These Scotches Glenkinchie Glenn-KIN-chee are released with both the bottlers’ and the dis- Highlands tilleries’ names on the labels. Duncan Taylor, an Dalwhinnie Dal-WIN-ee independent that has been bottling single malts Glengoyne Glenn-GOYN from other distilleries, is now in the process of Glenmorangie Glenn-MORE-an-gee building its own facility. Oban OH-bn Speyside Although the origin and quality of ingre- Balvenie Bal-VENN-ee or Bal-VEEN-ee dients go a long way toward determining the Cragganmore CRAG-en-more caliber of a single-malt whisky, it is the master Glenfarclas Glenn-FAR-klas distiller’s responsibility to manipulate these in- Glenfiddich Glenn-FID-ick Glenlivet Glenn-LIV-it gredients into a spirit of consistent quality that Glenrothes Glenn-ROTH-ess will go into the barrel. The , who Linkwood decides which barrels to blend together, is an- Macallan other key decision maker; it has been said that Mortlach MORT-lock 70% of the flavor in a malt whisky comes from Islands barrel aging. Arran (Arran) But in the end, i think we can all agree Highland Park (Orkney) that the most important person in the “whisky Ledaig (Mull) LED-chig chain” is the sommelier or server, whose job it Talisker (Skye) TAL-iss-kur is to know the products and to ensure that every Spiegelau Whisky Tumbler Islay EYE-la guest enjoys the single-malt Scotch whisky ex- (top); Riedel Vinum Single perience. Sláinte! Malt Whisky (middle); Ardbeg Riedel Overture Bourbon Bowmore (above). Bruichladdich Brook-LAD-die Bunnahabhain Boo-na-HAHV-en Caol Ila Cull EE-la sommeliers’ suggested pairings Kilchoman Kil-HOE-man Lagavulin Lag-ga-VOOL-in Although sommeliers sing the harmonies of wine pairings, they generally don’t Laphroaig La-FROYG think an intense whisky makes the proper duet partner for a dining experience. Some stick to heartier, smokier Island whiskies as after-dinner drinks, while a Campbeltown handful may start off with lighter Lowland styles as aperitifs. Here are several Springbank other ideas to try with your customers: Independent Bottlers Ostrea edulis oysters with a dash—I mean a molecule—of lemon oil to even the pH is a great match for salty Islay Scotch. Duncan Taylor Lars Ryssdal, Sales and Acquisition, Acme Wine Company, Tacoma, Wash. Gordon & MacPhail Signatory Chicken-liver pâté with any style of Scotch. Andrea Fulton-Higgins, Wine Consultant, Bella Vino Vita, Hopewell, Ore. Assorted artisanal salumi . . . it works awesome! mellow aging, lending a smooth vanilla char- Nicole Kosta, Wine Director, Mandarin Oriental Hotel, San Francisco acter without harsh, sweet new-oak influences. Smoked trout with dill, yogurt, and salmon roe pairs nicely with a sweeter style like Glenmorangie While Port or Madeira casks can add a touch of Port Cask Finish; cured pork belly with crispy polenta and tarragon is a wonder with a peaty style sweetness, Sherry barrels are second in popu- such as Lagavulin or Laphroaig. Carl Grubbs, Wine Director, Local Kitchen & Wine Merchant, Oola Restaurant & larity to bourbon casks because they provide a Bar, Sushi Groove, San Francisco darker amber hue and richer flavors of nuts and Crème brûlée with Glenmorangie Madeira Wood Finish; any kind of lemon or orange rind, maybe chocolate. a vinaigrette, with Glenkinchie. You may run across an unappealing line Sian Nagan, Manager, The Capital Grille, Denver such as the following, on the label of the Laph- Dark chocolate with most of the amber-colored Sherry-wood whiskies, like Bowmore 15 Year Old Darkest. roaig 2001 Signatory 7 Year Old: “Due to no Steven McBride, Operations Director, Òran Mór Whisky Bar, Glasgow, Scotland chillfiltration, this whisky may turn cloudy when It may not be food, but the best pairing I know is the Balvenie 12 Year Old DoubleWood and a stored in a cool place. It is both more full-bodied Cohiba cigar. Petr Landa, Senior Manager, Trattoria Dell’Arte, New York Photos courtesy Riedel of Crystal (middle, bottom) and full-flavored.” “Unchillfiltered” whiskies

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