CITY GUIDE ®

JULY 2021 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN

ALL YOU CAN DO Welcome to the vibrant Palazzo Madama overlooking heart of the city that has IN Turin Piazza Castello. marked Italian history

SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS DICER DISCOVER MORE Turin July 2021

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CORSO LUCIO QUINZIO CINCINNATO FO VIA MATTIROLO VIA L CEC VIA CARDINALE GUGLIE VIA CASTELDELFINO REGIO C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A V I A F O L I G N O A S TA OS F A I V AURO V I A T O Parrocchia Maria Speranza Nostra VIA BORG V I A B E R N A R D I N O L U I N I M M A S O G U L L I TERBO GLIZZO ROSSI OMASSIMO LARGO A V I A S E M P I OV NI A E G O T T A R D O after-dinner drink at an I A F R A N Ospedale San Giovanni

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CORSO LOMBARDIA C O R S O T O S C A N A GUB ELLA SALUTE ® VIA BORSI L VIA VIA VAL DELLA TORRE MO MA V I A LEMME BORGATA O MA IA T A ESA D DI STURA V I A P I A N E Z Z A VI SSAIA exceptional location? V I A T I C I N O CHI V I A A S S I S I V I A F O R L I ’ VIA M A SI ICHELE VI CORSO GIULIO CESARE VIA LAURO ROSSI FRASSATI VIA RENA VIA VEROLENGO A NT V E N E Z A VIA GOTTARDO V I A V E R O L E N G O A G.TARTINI www.welcometoitalia.com ONIO VIBO’ Piazza Chiesa della Salute ROS VI V AS I T R A D E L A PIAZZA VIA CERESOLE VIA VEROLENGO You’ll find both at Smile E TE GHIRLANDAIO N E ANCINA V I A S E M P I OV NI A E G O T T A R D O L JULY 2021 WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN PIAZZA CORSO VERCELLI THIA’ ENEZIA MONT N Parco della Conuenza V VIA ARCANGELO CORELLI SOFIA VIA VAL DELLA TORRE CORSO VIA BOCCARDO SA VIA VIA VITERBO VIA PIER LUIGI DA PALESTRINA Parco Aurelio VIA CORSO VIA GASPARI SPONTINI Tree in Turin. Peccei A S TA OS F A I V VIA GIOVENAVIA GIAMBATTISTA PERGOLE S O T T O PA S VIA GIOVANNI CRAVERO V AI P A I N E Z Z A S O CIGNA

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Contents GENERALE RS Parco vittime del rogo nello stabilimento ThyssenKrupp ANTONIO C O R S O V I G E V A N O Giardini del Piazza San Carlo holds LLA CO E VIA PIETRO COSSA BALDISSERA Piazzale della CORSO MORTARA Parrocchia O C I G N A VIA CANDIA VIA GIORGIO GHEDINI Croce Rossa Maria Regina E N O I P M E S A I V Chiesa di San Gaetano da Thiene C O UROS M A BRI A NV I T O CON ECI C H I PIAZZA RSO GIULIO CESARE CORSO SVIZZERA V AI S A NI CEC C O R S O V I G E V A N O Della Pace FRANCESCO C O R S O U M B R I A O VIA ERRICO PETR CRISPI CO the record for the most VIA SANTHIA’ SASC V AI D O VIA ADOLPHE DAUBRÉE T B O Piscina scolastica comunale E8 I A F R A N PIAZZA SA V VIA SSINA N PINEROLO GIOVANNI E IA PIOS M CORSO POTENZA V PALERMO BOTTESINI VIA BOLOGNA D O R A R I P A R I A E N VENO V IA A M IL C A R E P O N C H IE L L I Ospedale Amedeo di Savoia IA NTE RO I C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A S O C O ALL YOU CAN DO TOP IN TOWN TOP DESTINATIONS elegant square in O Palazzo Madama 3 16 V I A G R Welcome to the vibrant VIA LIVORNO M overlooking VIA GIOVANNI PACINI C MI heart of the city that has VIA ANDRA CASTAGNA V IA Piazza Castello. VIA PINEROLO CO IN Turin LARGO VIA B marked Italian history A L U N G O D O R A N A P O L I E IN A S C O FRANCECO R O VIA ANTONELLO DA M VIA CUNEO C O R S O N O V A R A VIA MUZIO CLEMENTI ARCO CIGNA VIA AOSTA VIA TREVISO S P SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | SHOPPING | DINING | ENTERTAINMENT | MAPS Enjoy the city, starting from AROUND the D O Rcity. ARP I A RA I A E H C R A M O S R O C Parco Pubblico Pellerina E LUIGI DAMIANO Parco del Meisino C O R S O O T TO N E R O S A I A LARGO VIA CUNEO R E G I O VIA PISTOIA VI BOLOGNA V I A C U N E O Mario Carrara A NV I T O CON ECI C H I CORSO VERCELLI RSO VIA SONDRIO VIA CEVA VIA TOLLEGO CO LIVORNO VIA BRA its main landmark attractions. Langhe, Roero and MonferratoA CORSO ENRICO GAMBA COVER IMAGE VI A VIA CREMONA VIA FOSSANO CHIESA S T R A D A D E L F O R T NI O Stimmate di VIA CARMAGNOLA San Francesco D'Assisi CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO IELL VIA CAPUA V IA U R B IN O VIA NOVI V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S The imposing facade of Palazzo 50B ESSENTIALS VIA RUGGERO LEONCAVALLO LARGO Parrocchia Gesù Operaio CORSO APPIO CLAUDIO I A V PALERMO VIA CEVA VIA BOLOGNAVIA GIOVANNI PACINI are bywords of avant-gardeC O UROS M A BRI VIA DON GIOVANNI BOSCO V IA P E S A R O Madama (Piazza Castello) CORSO SVIZZERA RI VIA LODI VIA ANGELO SISMONDA C O R S O A P P I O C L A U D I O VIA AQUILA VIA PRINCIPESSA CLOTILDE C O R S O R E G IN A M A R G H E R IT A VIA BA V I A C O M O CORSO LECCE Information and tips V I A S E R V A I S VIA TRIVERO L U N G O D O R A N A P O L I by . ORNAVASSO VIA V IA C IR IE C O R S O B R E S C IA V V I A G I O V A N N I S E R V A I S A CORSO GIULIO CESARE P A A I I N O S S A T O R D N A S S E L A O S R O C VIA CHIVASSO wineries, a legacy of world-class L LANDMARKS CORSO PRINCIPEL ODDON V I A R O V I G O 6 PIAZZA

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CORSO COSENZA V I A TA G G I A V I A A S U N C I O N S T R . D E L P O R T O N E VIA SAN REMO VIA VENTIMIGLIA V I A T U N I S I VIA GIULIO BIGLIERI VIA LAVAGNA VIA ZINO ZINI Pinacoteca Giovanni C O R S O E N R IC O T A Z Z O L I VIA PROSPERO RICHELMY e Marella Agnelli VIA NIZZA VIA GIORDANO BRUNO

CORSO ORBASSANO CORSO EUSEBIO GIAMBONE Lingotto CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA CAVORETTO LINGOTTO Passerella Olimpica Museo dell'Automobile di Torino

VIA SPOTORNO VIA GARESSIO ingotto PO SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO VIA VADO

CORSO ORBASSANO

VIA MILLEFONTI V I A G E N O V A SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Lingotto Fiere CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIAVIA VENTIMIGLIA MILLEFONTI

CORSO CORSICA SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Fiat Chrysler Automobiles Giardino C O R S O L U IG I S E T T E M B R IN I CORSO CADUTI SUL LAVORO STRADA TORINO Giuseppe Levi Stazione Torino Lingotto Ex Area Fiat Avio Lubricanti CORSO MONCALIERI VIA PASSO BUOLE NIZZA C O R S O T R A IA N O CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA PIO VII

MILLEFONTI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA Parco Giuseppe Di Vittorio

VIA PASSO BUOLE Torre Regione Piemonte

VIA SOMMARIVA Palavela

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIA NIZZA VIA PASSO BUOLE I R E I L A C N O M O S R O C

Parrocchia Assunzione VIA O. VIGLIANI di Maria Vergine Giardino Corpo VIA VINOVO Italiano di Liberazione

C O R S O T R A IA N O V I A G E N O V A

VIA O. VIGLIANI

VIA VENTIMIGLIA

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T MIRAFIORI SUD CORSO BENEDETTO CROCE Palazzo del Lavoro VIA PIO VII CORSO PIERO MARONCELLI

VIA O. VIGLIANI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA

V I A O N O R A T O V I G L I A N I PIAZZA CORSO FRAT. ROSSELLI

BENGASI

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

M O T R A E L E U N A M E A I V P O

Parco Colonnetti S TRA D TONA OR I

E T S E I R T O S R O C

VIA SESTRIERE S A N G O N E

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

S A N G O N E BORGARETTO

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T

VIALE TORINO NICHELINO VIA TORINO

C O R S O T R EI S T E PO

VIA BOGINO MONCALIERI

VIA TORINO

VIALE TORINO

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

500 m

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi YOUR TRAVELING COMPANION SINCE 1936® HIGHLIGHTS OF THE MONTH [ SIGHTSEEING] ®

whereMAGAZINE Turin RINASCENTE A point of reference for shopping in the city, www.whereitalia.com/turin the store in a building located in the central via Top in town Lagrange offers new aesthetics and new spaces PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL for a unique shopping experience. The -1 Floor Via Ezio Biondi, 1. 20154 Milano T: +39 02 25063100 1 4 is dedicated to homeware, design and food, while [email protected] the second, third and fourth boast contemporary www.whereitalia.com/turin fashion and classic style. The Ground Floor hosts a new area devoted to accessories, jewelley and PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF sunglasses, a Beauty Hall, and the Temakinho Andrea Jarach [email protected] restaurant, where you can sample Japanese-

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GREEN PEA NEW CONTRIBUTORS The first green retail park in the world, OPENING Carey Bernitz, Simona P.K. Daviddi, Floriana next to Eataly at Lingotto, is dedicated di Maio, Cornelia G. Hassmüller, Joy Lacanlale, to the theme of respect. 15,000 sq.m. on Fabio Lancini, Giulia Minero, Elena Peverata, Chiara Zaccarelli 5 floors where sustainable products are KASTELIC/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM MATEJ © created in harmony with Earth, Air, Water ICONOGRAPHY and People, in line with the principles of Archivio Proedi Media, 15 beauty and originality of Made in Italy. A Milano Panoramica, Shutterstock 5

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eco-sustainable and respectful purchases City Map © Proedi Comunicazione 2021 SHUTTERSTOCK.COM and consumption possible. From Turin to Fast Trains Network Map Dmitry Goloub © the world. www.greenpea.com © Proedi Comunicazione 2021 2 COO Pierfrancesco Coreno LA VIA DEL TÈ [email protected] In the shadow of the Mole has been MARKETING & ADVERTISING synonymous with premium-quality teas, Sieva Carolo, Isa Faleschini, Daniele Misrachi, fruit infusions and it blends permeated with Rachele Renna, Paola Zannoni the aromas of far-off lands, for more than 50 [email protected]

years. The store revolves around an old-world ADMINISTRATION “aromateque”, where glass jars containing a [email protected] variety of teas from all over the world allow customers to select the infusion that best suits PRODUCTION & CIRCULATION, them. Here, you can choose from among over SALES SUPPORT MANAGER Paola Grilli MARCO CRUPI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM LUCA LORENZELLI/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM 250 products from China and Japan, India, © [email protected] © Sri Lanka, Taiwan and Africa. www.laviadelte.it HOTEL RELATIONS MANAGER Marta Mailhac [email protected] MOLE ANTONELLIANA 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the now include artifacts from the prehistoric era SAN CARLO DAL 1973 A landmark building of Turin since 1889, it museum was re-modelled by Oscar-winning to the present time. 3 The new oasis in the centre of Turin, it acts CUSTOMER SERVICES was purchased by the municipality who set designer Dante Ferretti. It houses more a bridge between Piazza San Carlo and via Cristina Garbini decided to make it a monument to Italian than 37,000 artifacts, from the Paleolithic to PALAZZO MADAMA Lagrange. The ground floor is dedicated [email protected] unification. Standing at a height of 167.5m, at the Coptic era. The archaeologist and Situated in the centre of piazza Castello, it has to perfumes, essences and accessories. REG. TRIB. MILANO No. 152, 17 JULY 2019 the time of its construction it was the highest Egyptologist Jean-François Champollion always been a reference point in the city, On the first floor, apparel, homeware and EDITORE: PROEDI COMUNICAZIONE SRL - ISCRIZIONE AL ROC N. 2455 DIRETTORE RESPONSABILE: ANDREA JARACH brick building in . Built in an eclectic once said: ‘the road to Memphis and Thebes from Roman times to 1848, when it became hand-crafted Japanese items combine to PRINTED BY GRAPHICSCALVE SPA LOCALITÀ PONTE FORMELLO, 1/3/4 24020 VILMINORE DI SCALVE (BG) style, the Mole has a squat square base passes through Turin’. 2 the headquarters of the first Subalpine give life to an unconventional shopping topped by a large dome with a spire. You can Senate. Its name refers to ‘Madame Royale’ experience. On the second floor, a terrace Although the Publisher has made every effort to include copyright credits, in the event of there being any errors, oversights or omissions, we would like to ascend to the panoramic observation MUSEI REALI Christine of France, who took up residence with a bar welcomes customers wanting apologize to the copyright holders in question whose names will be published platform either by elevator or on foot by The residence of the Savoys until 1865, it is here in 1600. The view of the city from the to indulge in a relaxing break. in the next issue. climbing its 573 steps. Since 2000, it has now owned by the Italian government. The Panoramic Tower is spectacular. 4 www.sancarlodal1973.com The Publisher makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from hosted the National Museum of Cinema. 1 museum tour comprises a 3km route spread errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is PARCO DEL VALENTINO strictly prohibited. over 30,000 sq.m. and 7 hectares of Royal MUSEO EGIZIO Gardens. In 1563, Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Located on the banks of the Po River, and spread over 550,000 sq.m., this is the city’s >> To check the opening hours of museums, restaurants, EXCLUSIVE GIFT FROM TOP HOTELS Founded in 1824, Turin’s Egyptian Museum is Savoy moved the capital of the duchy from IL MAGAZINE È DISTRIBUITO NEI MIGLIORI HOTEL DI TORINO the oldest Egyptian museum in the world Chambéry to Turin, marking the beginning of most popular park. Its interior houses THE MAGAZINE IS AVAILABLE IN TURIN’S MOST EXCLUSIVE HOTELS numerous treasures including the Castello del stores and outlets stay tuned on www.whereitalia.com turin.whereitalia.com/distribution and the second in terms of the value and a major urban transformation and the quality of its treasures outside of Cairo. In enrichment of the dynastic collections, which Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site and

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a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences TEATRO REGIO bridge, which connects it to the square of the in the 1980s, it hosts events and the famous matches have been played here since 2011. century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo of Turin and Piedmont, the Medieval Village The Regio is one of the most important Italian church of the Gran Madre di Dio (1830), rooftop test track. The old Carpano plants, lying An architectural symbol, it is one of the most Emanuele II. Particularly worthy of note are the and Castle, and the Botanical Gardens (1729). theatres on the European scene, offering an renowned for its imposing pantheon-like adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now avant-garde facilities in the world. The Grand Gallery, the Chapel of St. Hubert, the 5 action-packed program of opera and ballet. It shape. 8 occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. 10 J-Museum, the official football museum of the Galleria di Diana, the 18th century Scuderie was designed by Filippo Juvarra and ‘bianconero’ team is hosted inside the stadium. Juvarrine and the Citroniera, now used to host inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in PIAZZA SAN CARLO MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’AUTOMOBILE 12 events. It is a part of the circuit of the Royal The summer country residence of the House 1936, and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, it The Car Museum (MAUTO) was opened in 1960 Residences of Turin and Piedmont. 14 of Savoy, it was built at the beginning of the Carlo Mollino, the only part of the original was commissioned by Marie Christine of and is one of the oldest car museums in the BASILICA DI SUPERGA 17th century as a court vineyard. It became building that still remains is its façade, now a France in true Parisian style with seemingly world. The semi-circular building overlooking Situated on the hills surrounding Turin, it offers a PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI known as Villa della Regina (literally the UNESCO world heritage site. Its unusual gate, endless porticoes housing fashion boutiques, the River Po acts as a prelude to the three breathtaking view. It was built as a thanksgiving Built in style in 1729, and only 10km Queen’s Villa) when King Vittorio Amedeo II named ‘Odissea Musicale’ (Musical Odyssey) is and an equestrian statue - the ‘Caval d’Brons’ – floors of the collection featuring a spectacular to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s deliverance from from Piazza Castello, with its French garden, gifted it to his future bride in 1714. by Umberto Mastroianni. 7 of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its layout designed by François Confinio, who also the French siege (1706) and designed by Filippo Stupinigi was the royal family’s favourite place Don’t miss a visit to this magnificent centre. 9 designed the exhibition space of the Museum Juvarra. One of the most picturesque ways of for celebrations and events. At the beginning residence, distinguished by the remains of its VIA PO PROMENADE of Cinema. 11 accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, which of the 20th century, Queen Margherita of Savoy original 18th century decorations and A stroll beneath the typical Torinese porticoes LINGOTTO rattles the 3km up the hillside. 13 took up permanent residence here. In 1919, furnishings, and its Italianate gardens. Villa in via Po, packed with shops and cafés, is an This complex of buildings built in 1916, based ALLIANZ JUVENTUS STADIUM Stupinigi became the headquarters of the della Regina is a part of the circuit of the absolute must. From here, you can access on a project by Matté Trucco to house the FIAT Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, this REGGIA DI Furniture Museum. It is a part of the circuit of Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the largest square in the factory (now FCA), still symbolizes the is the sixth largest stadium in Italy. It is owned Located inside the Park of La Mandria, this is a the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site. 6 city. The square ends at the Vittorio Emanuele I wealth of the city. Reconverted by Renzo Piano by the Juventus Football Club whose home Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th UNESCO world heritage site. 15

4 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.whereitalia.com 5 | WHERE NOW LANDMARK LA VENARIA REALE Majestic Residence − Located inside the Park of La Mandria, in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style complex built in the mid-17th century as a glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele II. − This grandiose estate lying on the outskirts of Turin comprises 80,000 square metres of buildings which combine to make up the Reggia and 60 hectares of Gardens, a masterpiece of architecture and landscaping, included in the UNESCO World Heritage list in 1997. − This monumental building boasts several of the highest expressions of universal Baroque: the enchanting Hall of Diana designed by , the breathtaking Great Gallery and the solemn Chapel of Saint Hubert, the grandiose complex of the Juvarra Stables, designed by Filippo Juvarra in the 18th century, ornate decorations and the spectacular Fountain of the Stag in the Court of Honour. These provide a unique setting for the Theatre of History and Magnificence, the permanent display devoted to the , that runs from the basement level to the piano nobile of the Reggia. − Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, a part of the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont, multimedia installations enable visitors to reconstruct the history of court life, while the apartments of King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and his wife Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the adjacent Castello della Mandria, are open for public viewing, as is the room hosting the collection of royal jewels. − On the last floor of the palace, above the monumental corridor known as the Galleria di Diana, discerning diners can enjoy a delightful meal at the Dolce Stil Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s Michelin-starred restaurant.

www.lavenaria.it/en

6 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.wheretraveler.comwww.whereitalia.com 7 WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO PHOTOS RENATO GHIAZZA. COURTESY FONDAZIONE MERZ

PHOTOS © PETER LINDBERGH

UNTIL 13 AUGUST ► PETER LINDBERGH’S FINAL ACT UNTIL 1 NOVEMBER A great tribute to German photographer Peter ► Lindbergh who passed away in September 2019: the DEDICATED TO THE GREEN project was devised and curated by him personally. The purpose of the exhibition held in the majestic Citroniera He spent two years working on an uncompromising of the Juvarra Stables (once a shelter for the citrus plants collection of 140 photographs that offer a deep insight of the Gardens) is to document interest and passion for love, into his extensive oeuvre, spanning from the early sensitivity for Nature and passion for uncontaminated 1980’s to the present day.“The exhibition allowed me to landscapes of numerous artists of the past, from pre- reconsider my images in a non-fashion context. The Romantic painters of the late eighteenth century to presentation aims to open the photographs to different DISCOVER contemporary masters. Over 200 works including paintings, interpretations and perspectives”, stressed Lindbergh. photographs, videos and installations from important Italian The show inaugurates a cycle of international museums and private collections are the protagonists of exhibitions that will bring great art figures to Turin. this event dedicated to the “green” theme. ANDPermanent and temporary ENJOY exhibitions in Turin PETER LINDBERGH: Untold Stories INFINITE BEAUTY. Landscape and Environment in Italy ARTiglieria Con/temporary Art Center are gradually returning to welcome visitors after a from Romantic painting to contemporary art. Via Verdi, 5. long season of closure: an opportunity to return to Juvarra’s Citroniera (Giardini della Reggia). artiglieria.art - paratissima.it museums, symbolic places of the country's culture. La Venaria Reale. www.lavenaria.it

UNTIL 31 DECEMBER MARISA AND MARIO MERZ. TOGETHER A new exhibition project presents in a single path the work of Marisa and Mario Merz, two different but intimately linked modes of expression, an artistic dialogue through a reflection on the sense of time and space. Marisa dedicates herself to studying the structure of female faces through drawing, painting and sculpture; here her activity is intertwined with that of Mario, who on each occasion has reinvented his igloo through the use of ever different materials. The domestic dimension is no different from the museum: as in their home-studio, the visitor will be immersed in a continuous dialogue, discovering works that have never been seen before.

MARISA E MARIO MERZ. La punta della matita può eseguire un sorpasso di coscienza. Fondazione Merz, via Limone 24. www.fondazionemerz.org

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UNTIL 3 OCTOBER Diego Perrone Francesco Barocco ◄ ART AND CONTRADICTION It is neither a theme nor a language that unites the five Italian artists in this exhibition: Francesco Barocco, Riccardo Baruzzi, Luca Bertolo, Flavio Favelli and Diego PH © ANDREA ROSSETTI Perrone. Rather, it is the presence of a space of possibility within Flavio Favelli Riccardo Baruzzi their works, made by at least two PH © ANDREA ROSSETTI elements that cannot be reconciled with one another and are bound UNTIL 25 JULY together through ambiguity which at times becomes a relationship ► A WORLD OF SHAPES of contradiction. The emotional AND COLOURS strength of their work, despite the A new site specific installation has been considerable differences in their developed for the former industrial spaces of OGR- practice, seems to derive from the Officine Grandi Riparazioni by the American vibration of that space created artist Jessica Stockholder. This is an opportunity between the elements which cannot for the public to admire, in complete safety and Luca Bertolo fully overlap, but which keep sliding free of charge, a few works from the Collection one upon the other. of Contemporary Art “la Caixa” of Barcelona and ON THE PRINCIPLE OF a treasure preserved by the city’s museums CONTRADICTION (GAM-Gallery of Modern Art and Castello di GAM Torino. Via Magenta, 31 Rivoli, Museum of Contemporary Art). The artist www.gamtorino.it developed a concept that is both rigorous and poetic, as she said: “I was struck by the many works © PHOTOS: GIORGIO PEROTTINO in which the circle and square intersect” and “I began to think of the representation of the human Cut a rug a round square by Jessica Stockholder body as a kind of circle within the square, as in OGR Cult – OGR Officine Grandi Riparazioni Leonardo da Vinci’s Vitruvian Man.” Corso Castelfidardo, 22. www.ogrtorino.it

RE UNTIL 26 SEPTEMBER OPENING ► STREET ART ON SHOW MUSEO NAZIONALE The works of Blu, Banksy, 3D (Robert DELL’AUTOMOBILE del Naja) and the best exponents of Many novelties and events are scheduled at this form of expression will inhabit the museum, such as the exhibition “The shape of the future”, dedicated to 90 years (+1) of the Teatro Colosseo, from the foyer to © LOPRESTO the auditorium, making a spectacular Carrozzeria Pininfarina (which opens on experience of multidisciplinary Thursday 20), and the presentation - on Thursday knowledge among the contemporary 13 - of the Fulminea supercar by Automobili arts. 150 works by 36 artists: originals, Estrema. Until 20 May, special exhibition of the prints, serigraphs, LP covers that have 1977 Lamborghini Countach LP 400 Periscopica, made music and art history, street signs designed by Marcello Gandini and the Abarth and even a banknote. Naturally, the star 1000 Record Pininfarina (see photo), a car that of the exhibition, thanks to the forty in 1960 won 8 class records. works on display, is Banksy, the Bristol From 15 May to 6 June, special exhibition of artist who has made his mark as one of Misano, the new concept vehicle designed by the greatest examples of contemporary IED in collaboration with Suzuki. “political art”. MAUTO Museo dell’Automobile di Torino STREET ART IN BLU 3 Corso Unità d’Italia, 40. Teatro Colosseo. Via Madama Cristina, 71. www.mauto.com www.teatrocolosseo.it

10 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.whereitalia.com 11 WHERE NOW | WHAT TO DO

COMING SOON CONTEMPORARY ART FOR SALE Artissima, Italy’s most important contemporary art fair, is one of the most eagerly awaited events on the international art scene. Thanks to the quality of its

PHOTOS © WALTER NIEDERMAYR PHOTOS © WALTER offerings and its focus on experimentation, the Turin fair is intended as a launch pad for emerging artists and galleries. This year’s event offers a hybrid formula, physical and digital, and launches the theme of “Counter-Time” as a transversal reflection, in reference to the history of art as a polyphony of voices in time and UNTIL 5 SEPTEMBER against time, linked in a unique and surprising symphony. By collaborating with numerous public institutions,

▲ THE UNIVERSE OF LE CORBUSIER museums and galleries, during the fair days, Turin is The exhibition itinerary covers the entire third floor of the transformed into a mega happening, with myriad, Pinacoteca Gianni e Marella Agnelli (an unmissable location in city-wide events. itself!) and traces Le Corbusier’s life, centred on his continuous 29 JULY – 17 OCTOBER search for ideas and inspiration. His life is illustrated in the exhibition 5-7 NOVEMBER ARTISSIMA International Fair of Contemporary Art ▲ through objects, drawings and photographs. The Franco-Swiss MAN AND LANDSCAPE architect, father of the Modern Movement, collected stones, pieces Oval – Lingotto Fiere, via Giacomo Matte Trucco, 70 Alpine landscapes, architecture and public spaces in relation to private of wood, shells, metal objects, glass and other materials as “objets www.artissima.art spaces: CAMERA-Centro Italiano per la Fotografia will host a solo à réaction poétique” (objects with a poetic reaction) able to trigger exhibition of works created by the South Tyrolean photographer Walter the creative process in him. One section is entirely dedicated to Le Niedermayr over the last ten years of his career. Corbusier’s travels, with particular attention to the three trips that On display are around 50 large-format works, often presented in the he made to Turin: in 1902, at the age of sixteen, on the occasion form of diptychs or triptychs, which explore the theme of changes in of the Universal Exhibition at the Promotrice delle Belle Arti where space, both geographical and “social”. the future architect had exhibited a clock; in 1934, when he was The exhibition also includes two previously unpublished diptychs photographed in a Balilla car on the Lingotto rooftop track (see created on the building site of Palazzo Turinetti in Turin, which will photo) and the last, in 1961, when he was invited by ICOM to give a become the fourth home of Intesa Sanpaolo’s Gallerie d'Italia. speech on the theme of the ideal museum.

WALTER NIEDERMAYR. Transformations LE CORBUSIER. Travels, objects and collections CAMERA - Centro Italiano per la Fotografia. Via delle Rosine, 18. camera.to Pinacoteca Gianni e Marella Agnelli Via Nizza, 230/103. www.pinacoteca-agnelli.it OUT OF TOWN ON THE TOP OF PIEDMONT The Sacra di San Michele is an ancient abbey 40km from Turin, situated on the top of Mount Pirchiriano. Built between 983 and 987, UNTIL 12 SEPTEMBER it is a symbolic monument of the Piedmont Region and an evocative landmark that GUTTUSO PH © RENATO ◄ ITALIAN ART BETWEEN THE WORLD WARS served as inspiration for Umberto Eco’s epic 25 years of history narrated by around 130 works from the museum’s novel ‘The Name of the Rose’, a historical collections and from some works found in the Galleria Sabauda. These murder mystery written in 1980, but set in the two public collections revolve around a significant selection of 73 year 1327. The sanctuary is at the midpoint masterpieces from the rich private collection of a lawyer from , of a pilgrimage route of over two thousand Giuseppe Iannaccone. The show reunites the works of artists whose kilometres that connects a wide area of explorations developed individual and collective visions that went Western Europe from Mont Saint-Michel against the tide with respect to the Fascist culture policies of a “return (France) to Monte Sant’Angelo (Italy). to order” and 20th-century monumental classicism. The show is divided into 5 themed sections: Interiors, Figures, Allegories and Portraits, Still Sacra di San Michele Lifes, Landscapes/Views. Via alla Sacra, 14 – Sant’Ambrogio di Torino (40km from Turin) A JOURNEY AGAINST THE TIDE. Italian Art 1920-1945 www.sacradisanmichele.com GAM | Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea Via Magenta, 31. www.gamtorino.it

12 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.whereitalia.com 13 WHERE NOW | AROUND THE CORNER The Royal Residences In addition to offering an overview of olden-day court life, the Regge Sabaude testify to the modern history of Piedmont and Italy. BY GIULIA MINERO

he royal residences are easily the era, including Amedeo di Castellamonte, Piazza Castello. In addition to being used for accessible by bus or car from Turin, Michelangelo Garove and lastly Filippo long hunting expeditions in the company of T and are among some of the best- Juvarra, who designed many of its most members of the local aristocracy, Stupinigi preserved examples of 17th and 18th beautiful and widely photographed spaces, was often chosen by members of the century European architecture. They are a including the Grand Gallery, the Chapel of Savoy household for celebrations and living testimony to the prestige of the local Saint Hubert and the imposing 18th-century dynastic weddings. monarchy, the Savoy family, the first kings complexes of the Juvarra Stables and the At the beginning of the 20th century, Queen of unified Italy. In addition to Castello del Citroniera (Orangerie), now used to host Margherita of Savoy took up permanent Valentino and Villa della Regina (see Top in exhibitions and events. residence here. In 1919, Stupinigi became Town), the favourite city-based residences Inside the Reggia di Venaria Reale, multimedia the headquarters of the Furniture of duchesses and princesses, and the installations enable visitors to reconstruct Museum, and a space for events fortress of Castello di Moncalieri, the Regge the history of court life, while the apartments and concerts. Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi MARY416/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Sabaude complex, listed as a UNESCO World of King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy and In addition to its original furnishings and © Heritage site in 1997, includes hunting his wife Rosa Vercellana, remodelled in the paintings, the museum hosts several into an aristocratic residence, and enlarged lodges and country residences, embellished adjacent Castello della Mandria, are open for masterpieces of cabinetry. with the addition of a wing known as with gardens that reflect the sophistication of public viewing, as is the room hosting the The lodge’s beautifully manicured French the Manica Lunga, with the ducal courtly life. collection of royal jewels. On the last floor of gardens and internal spaces are open for picture gallery. Its imposing spaces are the palace, above the monumental corridor public viewing, while its historic park, a part now the headquarters of a Museum of REGGIA DI VENARIA REALE known as the Galleria di Diana, discerning of the hunting reserve, is closed to the Contemporary Art, which also hosts Located inside the Park of La Mandria, diners can enjoy a delightful meal at the public. www.ordinemauriziano.it temporary exhibitions. in the historic centre of the town of Venaria, Dolce Stil Novo alla Reggia, the Reggia’s The courtyard of the castle is also home the Reggia di Venaria Reale is a Baroque-style Michelin-starred restaurant. www.lavenaria.it CASTELLO DI RIVOLI to Combal.Zero, a contemporary starred complex built in the mid-17th century as a Established as a military fortress in 1247, the restaurant whose panoramic glass walls offer glorified hunting lodge for Carlo Emanuele PALAZZINA DI CACCIA DI STUPINIGI Rivoli Castle was the first residence of the glorious views across the countryside as well II. Its present-day appearance is the result Stupinigi was built in Baroque style in 1729, Savoy duchy. as the surrounding castle. of work by several prominent architects of and is only 10km as the crow flies from During the 17th century, it was converted www.castellodirivoli.org

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

Reggia di Venaria Reale CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM PIO3/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

Reggia di Venaria Reale © Chapel of Saint Hubert Castello di Rivoli (Manica Lunga) Castello di Rivoli OLGYSHA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM ©

14 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.whereitalia.com 15 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN Top destinations around Piedmont

Grinzane Cavour castle and village © STEVANZZ/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Avant-garde wineries, a legacy his is UNESCO’s official reason for Although geographically the Langhe, Roero are its numerous castles, including that of After visiting the museum in Barolo, stop to a delicious gourmet meal at the Da Guido of world-class cuisine and adding the wine-growing regions of and Monferrato are neighbouring regions, Grinzane Cavour. Built in the 13th century in the village of La Morra, better known restaurant located in the nature reserve of T the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato they all have different morphologies, and currently home to the headquarters as ‘the terrace of the Langhe’ thanks to its Fontanafredda (www.guidoristorante.it). marvelous landscapes. All of to its world heritage list in 2014. “An and cultural characteristics. The region’s of the ‘Cavour Regional Enoteca’, the spectacular views, and head to Massimo these things have earned the exceptional living testimony to the historical varied landscape provides fertile soil for castle, in addition to stocking several of Camia’s starred restaurant for a fabulous MONFERRATO tradition of grape growing and winemaking an impressive array of local specialties: the region’s finest Doc and Docg wines, gourmet meal (www.massimocamia.it). Stretching southwards, as far as the foot of areas of the Langhe, Roero and processes, of a social context, and a rural from superlative wine, to the prized white also hosts the interesting Langhe Museum In addition to other specialties, the area the Ligurian Appenines, the Monferrato area Monferrato UNESCO World economy based on viticulture. The vineyards truffles of Alba, porcini mushrooms and (www.castellogrinzane.com). Other must- is renowned for its famous three-lobed occupies a fertile tract of terrain between Heritage status, resulting in of the Langhe-Roero and Monferrato are an IGP hazelnuts. Located just an hour’s drive sees include the Castle of Barolo and its hazelnut, boasting ‘Protected Geographical the provinces of Alessandria and Asti. In outstanding example of man’s interaction from Turin, these regions can be accessed surrounding town, which gives its name Indication’ status and used to make various addition to numerous historic, cultural an elite tourist destination. with his natural surroundings.” by car (several of the larger centres can also to the most famous Italian red wine and is sweet treats. If you want to purchase these and outdoor activities, Monferrato is BY CHIARA ZACCARELLI This area is protected as a ‘cultural heritage’ be reached by train). Other options include thought to date back to mediaeval times. tantalizing specialties and see how they’re renowned for its gastronomic specialties. which is symbolic, because man has one of the many organized wine and tasting The town is home to WiMu, a unique wine made, visit Giovanni Cogno’s artisanal Nature, culture, art and religion combine managed to shape it, giving it the unique tours on offer. Ask your concierge. museum that takes visitors on an immersive workshop (www.giovannicogno.it). Lastly, in a walk that takes visitors on a journey to characteristics that it boasts today. journey through the history of viticulture via an absolute ‘must’ for lovers of medieval discover the Nature Park of the Sacro Monte In this area, the vineyards of several of the THE LANGHE light, film and installations. The museum is history and architecture is a visit to the di Crea, in the province of Alessandria, a real world’s most famous wines, including Barolo, The Langhe are situated between the Tanaro set over three floors of the village’s stunning Castle of Serralunga d’Alba, a beautifully feat of architectural design that encompasses Barbaresco, Asti Spumante and Barbera, River and Liguria, between the provinces medieval castle, and the tour includes a visit preserved Gothic stronghold (www. Mount Crea and its sanctuary, which in turn, stretch as far as the eye can see, in a display of Asti and Cuneo. Particularly noteworthy to the building’s panoramic terrace and its castellodiserralunga.it). After the long walk up is a UNESCO World Heritage site. If you prefer a of changing colours and softly rolling hills. among the area’s many tourist attractions ancient wine cellars (www.wimubarolo.it). to the castle, take a break and treat yourself historical visit to an excursion, don’t miss

16 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.whereitalia.com 17 Find the next year calendar Dante 2021 WHERE NOW | OUT OF TOWN on www.whereitalia.com 2021 EVENTS IN ITALY Celebrating Dante Alighieri, the father of the Italian language also means celebrating the symbol that tells of Italy to the world, of its humanism and its identity made of the Eco Museum of ‘Pietra da Cantone’ – a beauty and warm hospitality. type of sandstone only found in this area – in Cella Monte. For some years now, the To commemorate the 700th anniversary museum has undertaken the arduous but of his death, a full calendar of initiatives worthwhile task of taking an inventory of the has been created involving the three cities ‘infernot’ in the area. ’Infernot’ are dark, airless associated with Dante (Ravenna, underground spaces, carved out in stone, and Florence) in the coming months, which located beneath houses and cellars that, in will continue until Sunday 12 September some instances, are real underground tunnels. 2021. On that date, Maestro Riccardo Muti These works of arts, carved and modeled by will climb onto the podium for a concert artists, were either used to store bottles of in Piazza San Francesco in Ravenna, a wine, or as pantries, because the temperature performance that will also be repeated in inside them remains constant. Several of these Florence and Verona. The programme of old ‘infernot’ are open for public viewing, events will reach its culmination with the especially during the ‘vendemmia’ (grape inauguration of the Museum of the Italian harvest) or on special occasions (www. Language at Santa Maria Novella. ecomuseopietracantoni.it). Although the majority of local wines are red and full-bodied, Poet, man of letters, politician, philosopher like Barbera, Grignolino and Freisa, you’ll also and theologian, Dante Alighieri (Florence find a good selection of whites, including 1265-Ravenna 1321) is a pillar of European Moscato. An absolute ‘must’ for wine and world literature and represents connoisseurs visiting the area is the Enoteca an entire culture. His “Divine Comedy”, AUGUST OCTOBER Regionale di Vignale Monferrato. Located Serralunga d’Alba castle 16/8 | Siena | Palio dell’Assunta. www.ilpalio.org 2-10/10 | Milan | Milano Wine Week. which for centuries has been considered © MIKEDOTTA | DREAMSTIME.COM © MIKEDOTTA in a magnificent 17th century ‘palazzo’, the 28/8 | Salento area (Puglia) | www.milanowineweek.com the greatest work written in the Italian Enoteca is a great place to taste and purchase La Notte della Taranta. www.lanottedellataranta.it 7-10/10 | Milan | MIA Milan Image Art Fair language and one of the masterpieces of some of the area’s best local wines (www. @ Superstudio Maxi. www.miafair.it world literature, describes a journey into the enotecadelmonferrato.it). SEPTEMBER 9/10– 5/12 | Alba (Piedmont) | afterlife, witnessing first-hand the dramas and 1-11/9 | | International Exhibition International Alba White Truffle Fair. suffering of the damned, the punishments ROERO of Cinematographic Art. www.labiennale.org www.fieradeltartufo.org to which they are subjected and the glories Roero is situated in the northeastern part 4-17/9 | Venice | The Venice Glass Week. 10/10 | Trieste | Barcolana. they have earned. A journey into history and www.theveniceglassweek.com www.barcolana.it of the province of Cuneo, to the left of the mankind, filled with emotions, hopes and 5-8/9 | Milan | HOMI The lifestyle Trade Fair 10-12/10 | Milan | World Routes. Tanaro river. Like the neighbouring Langhe, eternal feelings. @ Fieramilanocity & MiCo. www.homimilano.com www.routesonline.com this area is renowned for its enogastronomic 5-10/9 | | Milan | SUPERSALONE and 14-18/10 | Turin | International Bookfair and cultural offerings. Among its castles, the Fuorisalone www.salonemilano.it (33rd edition). www.salonelibro.it The main sites in Florence that will host the Castle of Govone is particularly noteworthy. + Milano Design Week. www.milanodesignweek.org 15-24/10 | Perugia | Eurochocolate. events will include the Uffizi Galleries, the The castle is located in the province of 8-26/9 | Milan | MiTo SettembreMusica www.eurochocolate.com theatre of the Maggio Musicale Fiorentino, the Cuneo and was formerly one of the royal www.mitosettembremusica.it 17-19/10 | Verona | Vinitaly (54th edition). University of Florence, the Accademia della residences of the House of Savoy 10-14/9 | Vicenza | VicenzaOro. www.vicenzaoro.com www.vinitaly.com Crusca, the Galileo Museum, the Fondazione (www.castellorealedigovone.it). Located just 12/9 | Monza (Milan) | Formula 1. Franco Zeffirelli, the Bargello and the Casa di a short distance from Alba, the Castle of Italian Grand Prix. www.formula1.com NOVEMBER Dante Museum. www.700dantefirenze.it Monticello is one of the most imposing and 13-19/9 | Milan | Milano Artweek 5-7/11 | Turin | Artissima 28th edition. www.yesmilano.it www.artissima.art best-preserved medieval buildings in the area 16-21/9 | | International Boat Show 5-9 /11| | Merano (Trentino-Alto Adige) | owing to the fact that since 1372 it has been (61st edition). www.salonenautico.com Merano Wine Festival. owned and inhabited by the Roero family 17-19/9 | Milan | MIART. www.miart.it www.meranwinefestival.com of Monticello (www.roerodimonticello.it). 17-19/9 | Milan | Orticola di Lombardia. 17-21/11 | Milan | BookCity Milano. Experience what it feels like to be a prince or www.orticola.org bookcitymilano.it and Music Week. princess for one night and stay at the Castle 17-19/9 | Pitti Fragranze | Stazione Leopolda www.milanomusicweek.it Museo Enologico Toso of Guarene, an important stopover on the (Florence). fragranze.pittimmagine.com 21/11 | Venice | Festa della Salute. Piedmontese Baroque itinerary which also hosts 18-20/9 | Milan | HOMI Fashion & Jewels. venice.whereitalia.com a hotel belonging to the Relais&Châteaux chain Only a few kilometers from Bra, a trip to the In the heart of the Langhe area you www.homifashionjewels.com 25-28/11 | Milan | EICMA International (www.castellodiguarene.com). architectural complex of the Agenzia di can visit the Museo Enologico Toso, 18/9-9/10 | Viareggio (Tuscany) | Motorcycle and Accessories Exhibition. Carnevale di Viareggio. viareggio.ilcarnevale.com www.eicma.it For real foodies, an absolute must is the Pollenzo is well worth your time. where its wine cellar holds the secrets 19/9 | | Acea Run Rome The Marathon. End of November | Venice | famous sausage of Bra, a delectable product Built in 1833, it now hosts the first University and the hard work of the Toso family www.runromethemarathon.com Teatro La Fenice – Opening of the Opera at its fourth generation. Toso is a made from lean beef and bacon. Since it of Gastronomic Sciences in the world. 19-21/9 | Milan | Mipel. mipel.com Season. www. teatrolafenice.it requires hardly any ageing, it’s eaten fresh This university was founded and promoted company devoted to the research 19-21/9 | Milan | Micam. milano.themicam.com year-round and traditionally served raw, by the international Slow Food association, and development of red wines (from 19-21/9 | Milan | The One Milano. DECEMBER This image by press photographer Massimo usually as an antipasto, or cooked in a sauce which studies, protects and disseminates Barbera to Dolcetto) and white www.theonemilano.com 7/12| Milan | Teatro alla Scala – Opening of Sestini shows a view of Piazza Santa Croce with that is used to dress ‘tajarin’ (typically fresh the agricultural and enogastromic wines (from the Langhe Arneis to the 21-27/9 | Milan | Milano Moda Donna. the Opera Season: "Machbeth" by Giuseppe the statue of Dante in the foreground. Dante’s Piedmontese pasta) or polenta (www. traditions of countries worldwide (www. Moscato d’Asti DOCG). www.toso.it www.cameramoda.it Verdi (conductor: Riccardo Chailly). empty tomb (cenotaph) is held in the Basilica of salsicciadibra.it). agenziadipollenzo.com). 22-24/9 | Milan | Lineapelle. www.lineapelle-fair. www.teatroallascala.org Santa Croce but he is actually buried in Ravenna.

18 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR

artists like Titian, Perugino, Leonardo da Vinci The Italian ‘Lake district’ and Correggio to her court. Inspired by his Over the past few years, due to the influx mother’s passion for collecting art, Federico II of Hollywood celebrities, Lake Como has invited Raphael’s pupil Giulio become the most famous of all the lakes. An almost uninterrupted sequence of villas, each with its own landing stage, decorates the Bologna, Unique banks of this idyllic lakeside resort. However, Northern Italy also has two other famous the university of Italy lakes that attract visitors from far and wide: Built in 1088, most historians agree that the Italian Landscape Lake Maggiore and Lake Garda. The former University of Bologna is the oldest university is more tranquil and shadier, while the latter, in the world. Thanks to the continuous The variety and beauty of its “landscape” so vast that it looks like a still sea, is more turnover of students from all over the world, is what makes Italy unique. This term is not vibrant and windier. Its expanse of water from medieval times to the present day, this and the diversity of the countryside make university has made Bologna a vibrant city always easily translatable but relates to the the area a real outdoor recreation ground. from many aspects; cultural, creative, artistic environment and the many ways in which Como, Maggiore and Garda combine to and social. It is therefore not surprising that many people relate to the words of Giosuè man has transformed it, during its multi- form one of the most enchanting splashes of scenery in Northern Italy. Garda, in particular, Carducci, one of the most important Italian faceted history. The result is a combination is renowned for its fabulous citrus fruits and poets, who wrote in 1888: “I love Bologna; of nature and art that delights the eye and DOP olive oil. for the faults, the mistakes, the follies of my youth which I committed here, and which the heart. I cannot regret, but I love it more because , it’s beautiful.” Must-visit sights include the the city of the Gonzagas historic centre with its porticoes and towers, Though less well-known than Venice or streets and markets, and main square with Florence, Mantua, a charming city situated the enormous Basilica di San Petronio. Its hilly in Northern Italy on the banks of the surroundings are also breathtaking. River Mincio, is packed with art treasures. Governed by the Gonzaga family for four centuries, from circa 1300 to 1700, this Portofino, home to Lombard city experienced its maximum the ‘piazzetta’ and period of splendour during the Renaissance, mysterious villas when its most famous masterpieces were With its narrow streets leading down to the executed. A renowned patron of the arts, sea, pastel-washed houses and crystal clear Isabella d’Este, the Marchesa of Mantua and waters, Portofino is the ideal harbor. It is the wife of Federico Gonzaga, summoned therefore no surprise that since ancient

Taormina

20 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 Villa del Balbianello, Lake Como www.whereitalia.com 21 PH © STEFANO VALERI / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM WHERE NOW | GRAND TOUR

The very famous Chianti zone, are the best in the world. Apropos of coffee, renowned for its vineyards, there’s a tradition that sums up the city better verdant valleys, rows of cypresses, than a thousand words: the Neapolitans call it STROLLING THROUGH THE CITY olives groves, towns and abbeys “caffè appeso” and it involves buying a coffee built on hilltops, is around for yourself, and then purchasing another originally covered the Colosseum. They half an hour by car from the one for someone else who doesn’t have the were ‘recycled’ to build several historic centre of Florence. money to pay for it. Roman buildings including the Basilica is the ideal starting point to explore of St. Peter’s and Palazzo Barberini. the other beauties of Italy: the islands of the archipelago, Capri, Ischia and Procida, and the Amalfi Coast infused with the scent of Florence lemons. There is also Pompeii, the city, buried How can one describe a city which by layers of volcanic ash during the eruption originated in the Renaissance in just a few of Vesuvius two thousand years ago, and one words? It’s impossible! The only solution of the most incredible archaeological sites in Venice is to visit the Duomo or Santa Croce, the the world. masterpieces housed in the Uffizi, the Tuscan Ponte Vecchio or Piazza della Signoria, Venice Michelangelo’s “David” or Palazzo Pitti. It Matera, the hidden pearl With canals in the place of streets, and is really no surprise that the entire city boats instead of cars, Venice, the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since of the South of a thousand bridges, spectacular there is not one centimeter that is not When it became the European capital of facades, and breathtaking views, offers a worthy visiting, we strongly suggest that culture in 2019, Materia has got the visibility dreamlike vision. This romantic city par you make time to lose yourself amidst it deserved. Matera was founded in the dark excellence, has a wealth of historic and its art and architecture, its history and its ages, and is one of the most intriguing places artistic treasures that would be difficult landscapes. There’s just one thing that in Southern Italy, renowned, above all, for the to find in any country other than Italy. you need to remember: this is the place uniqueness of it charming historic centre. Its To enjoy them to the fullest, climb to where Stendhal experienced what was so-called ‘Sassi’ (cave dwellings) are houses, the top of St. Mark’s bell tower, or the later to become known as the Stendhal churches and, now, even hotels, literally carved lesser known spiral staircase of Palazzo syndrome… into the tufa stone. Lying one on top of the Contarini del Bovolo, and let your gaze other, they overhang a gorge to create an wander over the lagoon. incredible nativity-like scenario. Located just a few kilometers from the beaches of Puglia, the city is well worth a visit. In addition to the Rome Sassi, it includes a Romanesque cathedral, the Fifteen square kilometers and twenty- Convent of Sant’Agostino, the church of San five-thousand attractions: Rome’s Matera Portofino Giovanni Battista and the Baroque church of historic centre has been a UNESCO San Francesco. Located off the beaten tourist world heritage site since 1980. A symbol among symbols and the most widely times, this beautiful coastal village has been There’s Siena, with its unmistakable square. northern Tuscany. It is here that the majority track, Matera has often been used as a film photographed monument in the world, a highly sought-after holiday destination. There’s San Gimignano with its sixteen towers of the area’s most fashionable seaside resorts set. In 2003, thanks to its arresting landscapes the Colosseum is considered one of Florence And, even now, with its ‘piazzetta’, Portofino and Pisa, whose one and only tower is unique are located. The summer getaway for the rich and timeless atmosphere, Mel Gibson the 7 wonders of the modern world. is a reference point for international tourism. throughout the world. Ultimately, there and famous including financiers, big names chose Matera to re-create the biblical city of The memory of its performances – Although its hotels are astronomically are Tuscany’s cities and art, its man-made in sports and showbiz celebrities, Forte dei Jerusalem for his controversial blockbuster ‘The Turin gladiators, wild animals and naval battles priced, a drink by its yacht-filled harbor, artifacts and its vestiges of history. Above Marmi was founded in 1788 by the Grand Passion of Christ’. A Roman colony, the first capital of – re-enacted in the arena have always or a stroll around its designer shops can all, there’s the lyrical landscape with which Duke of Tuscany Pietro Leopoldo I of Lorraine Italy and an industrial city. From its fueled the fantasy of history and film be easily enjoyed on a day trip. There are Tuscany continues to enchant both Italians who commissioned the building of a ‘fort’ to origins to the present time, Turin has buffs. However, everyone is aware of many anecdotes about the town which was and foreigners. There are gently rolling defend the shipment of the precious marble The Kingdom of Baroque had several different incarnations, Caltagirone, Militello, Catania, Modica, Noto, what happened to the 100,000 cubic used as film set for the Antonioni/Wenders hills, cypresses, sunflowers, narrow winding quarried from the nearby town of Carrara, each of which has left profound traces Palazzolo, Ragusa and Scicli: these are the metres of shining white marble that movie ‘Beyond the Clouds’. One in particular streets and stone houses scattered around thus making it an important crossroads for in its architecture and urban layout. names of ’s magical Baroque towns. concerns Villa Altachiara. Its first owner, Lord the countryside. The Tuscan experience is trade. The town is also a mecca of luxury Extending over a surface area of less Protected by UNESCO, and located in south- Carnarvon, who financed the expedition that bound to win over your heart. However, if you shopping. than 150 square kilometers, crossed by eastern Sicily, they are sure to steal your led to the discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb, haven’t had your fill of marvels, stop at San the Po, the longest river in Italy, Turin heart and leave you awestruck. Although is said to have brought the ‘Curse of the Galgano, the abbey with the sky for a roof! is characterized by a checkerboard-like almost all of these towns existed during Pharaoh’ upon himself. He died shortly after Ah, the wonders of Tuscany! grid of streets that makes getting your medieval times, they were razed to the the tomb was opened and his villa became a Naples and then… bearings easy. One of the city’s most “See Naples and die” is an Italian saying of ground by a devastating earthquake in 1693. site of sinister, inexplicable happenings… distinctive architectural features is its Forte dei Marmi: the sea unknown origin. Believe it or not, all the However, this tragedy resulted in a miracle 18km of porticoes which house shops of Tuscany clichés about Naples are true: it’s opulent, of beauty: architecture, urban planning and and cafés: its porticoes and its elegant Tuscany, the Italy that In addition to being the birthplace of a queen passionate, musical, contradictory, chaotic the ornamentation of buildings constitute squares have given Turin the nickname everyone dreams about (Paola Ruffo of Calabria, the Queen Consort and neglected. People are friendly and the crowning achievement of one of the last Rome of a ‘drawing room’ city. There’s Florence, boasting the magnificent of Belgium until 2013), Forte dei Marmi is the ‘trained’ over the centuries to ‘get by’, for periods of the flourishing Baroque movement works of Michelangelo and his marble statues. jet-set paradise of Versilia, on the coast of better or worse. And, yes, its pizza and coffee PHOTOS © SHUTTERSTOCK.COM in Europe. An absolute marvel!

22 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.whereitalia.com 23 [ WELCOME TO ITALIA ] Dream experiences

To discover the beauties of the city or to try out special THE SPECIAL ONES experiences, Welcome to Italia offers you some unmissable BELLAGIO AND VARENNA, opportunities. Choose whether to take part in exclusive PEARLS OF LAKE COMO A visit to two of the most beautiful villages in city tours or book the outdoor experience you’ve been Italy, where you can admire spectacular views dreaming of for the summer: www.welcometoitalia.com with a private boat ride. Aperitif or brunch.

EGYPTIAN MUSEUM CLICK & BUY GUIDED TOUR Your guide will take you on a journey in time and space through the second most important museum in the world for the study of the Ancient Egypt. You will also enter the scenographic and breathtaking gallery of Ramses II.

CLICK & BUY

ROYAL PALACE GUIDED TOUR The Royal Palace was the residence BUBBLES ON THE LAKE Two-hour boat tour for a special moment of the Savoia’s royal family: explore with your loved one, or for a toast with with your guide the halls and rooms friends in a magical atmosphere. where the Italian royal family used to live. You will end your visit in the baroque CLICK & BUY Chapel of the Holy Shroud.

CLICK & BUY

TURIN FOOD & WINE WALKING TOUR What better way of discovering Turin than exploring the local food and wine culture that makes the city so unique. From the elegant and historical coffee and chocolate shops to the Porta Palazzo market, the biggest in Europe. ROMANTIC TOUR ON LAKE COMO CLICK & BUY The experience of taste and relaxation between Varenna and the magical waters of the lake culminates with dinner in a panoramic restaurant. Live your dream and get TURIN HIGHLIGHTS your experience in a click WALKING TOUR CLICK & BUY This 2-hour walking tour is the perfect way to discover Turin with the help of a local and expert guide: let’s admire some of the most beautiful historical buildings declared UNESCO World heritage. Welcome to Italia network CLICK & BUY promotes the Italian tourist heritage, combining selected contents Discover other experiences: with high-quality experiences. www.welcometoitalia.com 24 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.welcometoitalia.com SHOPPING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN CLOTHING W The Guidelines JEWELLERY & M H E O R C MAP LOCATIONS-Note that references in bold MEN & WOMEN WATCHES E . T E R at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc.) refer to the R A V E L Boggi Milano coordinates on the street map (pages 46-47). Astrua 1860 Men’s fashion is a perfect blend of stylistic ROLEX RETAILER Astrua 1860, one of the research and high-quality fabrics, offering SHOPPING oldest watchmakers in Europe, is located in clients a product that’s excellent value for This directory, grouped by category, is a list of the heart of Turin, between the First Italian money. www.boggi.com. Via XX Settembre, establishments recommended by the editors of Parliament and the National Library. A key 11/c. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues- Sat Where magazine and includes regular advertisers. visitor attraction at the entrance to the 10am-7.30pm. Map E5 * Stazione Porta Nuova Based on statistical evidence, the most popular boutique is an elevator operated with a visible - Via Nizza. Open Mon-Sun 8am-9pm. T: 011 luxury brands are grouped under the separate gear mechanism reminiscent of those used 5 622017. Map E6 category “Top Brands”, which be found on page in watches. At its historic store, boasting an 24. Several unusual shops, stocking items and Kristina Ti innovative, modern concept, Astrua presents its contemporary jewelry creations, exquisite rarities for collectors or aficionados in specific The standalone store of Torinese brand leather goods and precious accessories. In product categories, are listed under “Passion Kristina offers romantic, highly feminine addition to several of the world’s most coveted Shopping” rather than in the standard shopping collections designed by Cristina Tardito. At this sections. Shopping hours are generally from 10am warm, welcoming space, located just a stone’s to 7pm; less centrally located shops still take the throw from piazza Castello, you’ll find clothing traditional lunch break. Most shops are closed on for free spirited, independent women, who are Sundays (except those located in central Turin) and not prepared to sacrifice a touch of seductive on Monday mornings. Ask your concierge. frivolity. www.kristinati.it Open Mon 3.30am- Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is 7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Maria Sizing generally included in the price of goods. Vittoria, 18. T: 011 837170. Map F4 Women,s clothes TAX-FREE SHOPPING SO San Lorenzo » By law, non-EU residents are entitled to An ideal destination for lovers of a chic, sought- IT EUR US UK reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased after style, this stand-alone store offers a 36 32 1 4 selection of established and emerging brands and exported from the EU: before finalizing 38 34 2 6 a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant including Loboutin, Azzedine Alaia, Isabel whether they are eligible for a tax refund. Marant and Giambattista Valli. Additionally, 40 36 4 8 its homeware department features furnishing 42 38 6 10 fabrics, unique design pieces and a careful DINING selection of tableware and furnishing 44 40 8 12 Reservations for most restaurants are strongly accessories. www.sosanlorenzo.it. Open 46 42 10 14 advised. In Italy, service is included in the Mon3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. price meaning that although tipping is not 48 44 12 16 Via Des Ambrois, 7. T: 011 883531. Map G5 compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include the word Women,s shoes “coperto”, a small surcharge corresponding to the cost of the service and bread. Although no DEPARTMENT STORE IT EUR US UK

ADELE CHIABODO dress code exists in Italy, semiformal clothing is © Rinascente 36 36 6 3 usually considered de rigueur at restaurants. All Italy’s most prestigious temple of high-end 37 37 6.5 4 restaurants and bars are non-smoking unless a shopping is located in the city’s highly central 38 38 7.5 5 separate smokers’ area is specifically offered. via Lagrange. This department store offers the Set meals: prices are per person and usually best in fashion for men, women and children, 39 39 8.5 6 refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded). alongside a selection of accessories, design, 40 40 9 7 The scented universe of Tonatto € = 30€ or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ / homeware and beauty by the best Italian 41 41 9.5 8 €€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above. and international brands. At its food market, A world of fragrances that strikes the deepest chords of the soul, where you can find home fragrances and you’ll find the best gourmet Made-in-Italy ENTERTAINMENT foods, and a fabulous selection of prestigious Men,s clothes perfumes, or create the scent that best reflects your personality. By Chiara Zaccarelli Several venues offering food are included in this international products. Don’t miss the renewed IT EUR US UK section. These are considered as meeting places floors: -1 (home-food-design), 3rd and 4th rather than gourmet addresses and thus explain floors (women’s fashion). Open Mon-Fri 50 46 36 36 n Via della Rocca, not far from Piazza Vittorio Tonatto Profumi is a key representative of Italian >> www.tonatto.com our decision to list them here rather than under 9.30am-8pm; Sat 9.30am-8.30pm; Sun10am- 52 48 38 38 “Dining”. Veneto, there’s a hidden treasure trove perfumery throughout the world. Under the Via della Rocca, 14c. 8pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 15. T: 011 5170075. 54 50 40 40

Map F5 56 52 42 42 Iwhere you can create your own scented supervision of Diletta Tonatto, the company’s T: 011 835631. Map G6 SIGHTSEEING portrait or purchase an element of olfactory Managing Director and Artistic Director who Several places like the Musei Reali or the San Carlo dal 1973 58 54 44 44 design that gives a distinctive identity to your boasts a degree in sociology and a doctorate Museo Egizio are symbols of Turin, hence our Having abandoned its former vocation for 60 56 46 46 decision to describe them in special boxes. big-name fashion brands, this multi-functional living spaces. The Gallerie Olfattorie (Olfactory in the sociology of smell, the Maison offers The information provided on museums and concept store focuses on collections based Galleries) are perfume ateliers where you can an array of 26 fragrances interpreted in a monuments is verified as meticulously as on a ‘no brand’ approach, giving way to a Men,s shoes find all the fragrances of Maison Tonatto. In collection of fragrances for the home and possible. However, data such as telephone selected assortment of creations by emerging IT EUR US UK addition to home fragrances and perfumes body. All the products in the collection are numbers, opening hours, prices and the designers. Besides perfumes, essences, accessories, artisanal jewelry from British, 40 40 7.5 6 you can establish a connection with art, music, created using the traditional techniques of accessibility of sites are all subject to change, on a seasonal basis and also due to restoration Japanese and American designers, the store 41 41 8 7 literature and films through the sense of smell, haute perfumery. The alcoholic compounds work, museum loans or changes features a selection of apparel, homeware 42 42 8.5 8 stimulated by unique installations. However, are filtered by hand, resulting in a sought-after and hand-crafted Japanese items. A terrace of management. Ask your concierge. 43 43 9 9 the real artistic heritage of the Maison is the balance of craftsmanship and innovation. All with a bar welcomes customers wanting to sip All details are correct at the time of going to ‘Olfattoteca’, an archive that contains hundreds this translates into an authentic ritual that makes a cocktail or choose their favourite dish from 44 44 10.5 10 press but several details can change: ask your the small menu that changes weekly.www. 45 45 11.5 11 of olfactory notes where, like a haute couture Tonatto’s fragrances eminently wearable scents concierge to double-check all information. sancarlodal1973.com. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; 46 46 12 12 atelier, you can create your own bespoke that follow the passage of time without ever Tue-Sat 10.30am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, 161. fragrance, based on individual requirements. being intrusive. T: 011 5114111. Map F4

26 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.whereitalia.com 27 [ FASHION DESIGNERS] SHOPPING

watch brands, including Rolex, Patek Philippe, in Europe, the USA and Canada, it continues scented pillows. www.culti.com. Open Tues-Sat Jaeger-LeCoultre, Cartier, Vacheron Constantin, to focus religiously on time-honoured Made- 10.30am–2pm/3pm-7.30pm. Via C. Battisti, 3. Top Brands Omega, Panerai, IWC, Hublot, Baume&Mercier, in-Italy craftsmanship. Hence, the creation of T: 011 0361363. Map F4 Longines and Montblanc, Maison Astrua 1860 footwear, renowned for its delightfully aged stocks Murano glass by Venini, creations by appearance, crafted in only the finest leathers, La Belle Histoire Located underneath the Mole Antonelliana, GUCCI—www.gucci.com Open daily 10am- ROBE DI KAPPA—www.robedikappa.com Open Tudor, luxury accessories, Edward Green dyed with tree tannins and enhanced with real this retrò-style atelier is a go-to destination for A stroll through the streets 7.30pm. Via Roma, 112. T: 011 4546632. daily 10am-7.30pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 33. T: 011 footwear, Amouage fragrances and Pasotti leather soles, and hand woven, hand-stitched romantics who’ll find themselves surrounded Map F4 19886532. Map F3 umbrellas. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat artisanal bags. www.maledettitoscani.com. of the centre, amidst elegant 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7pm. www.astrua.com. Open Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Via P. Micca, 18. by old suitcases, trunks, wooden vintage furniture and brocade armchairs. The store royal porticoes (that extend HERMÈS—www.hermes.com Open Mon-Sat SALVATORE FERRAGAMO— Via Cesare Battisti, 15 corner of Piazza Carlo T: 011 5579134. Map E4 Alberto. T: 011 5613873. Map F4 offers a selection of almost exclusively for 18km across the city), and 10.15am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via Roma, 124. www.ferragamo.com Open Mon-Sat 10am- PASSION SHOPPING Made-in-Italy garments, with the exception squares embellished with T: 011 546971. Map F4 7.30pm. Via Roma, 108. T: 011 5625940. Map E5 Rocca 1794 of French brand Lilith, Spanish brand Hoss

sumptuous architecture, is a ROLEX RETAILER Master jewelers and Bagni Paloma Intropia and Japanese brand Takaaki. Other ITALIA INDEPENDENT— SWAROVSKI—www.swarovski.com watchmakers since the 18th century, Rocca Located in an old 100sq.m. garage in the heart highlights include a collection of strictly Italian- unique opportunity to soak www.italiaindependent.com Open daily 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 335. rates among the first importers of luxury of Turin, this delightful concept store carries made footwear and a homeware line. www. up the city’s authentic charm. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat T: 011 535345. Map E5 • Open Mon Swiss watches. Rocca pays homage to fine clothing, furniture and various other items labellehistoire.it. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 9.30am- watchmaking with a selection of the world’s including dishwashing liquids, black pepper, Tues-Fri 10am-1pm; 3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs and most prestigious brands including Damiani, Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Montebello 15/g. It’s also a great destination for Via G.L. Lagrange, 31. T: 011 19885704. 1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Corso candles, Japanese watercolours and colognes Rolex, Omega, Breitling, Blancpain, Bucherer, T: 011 8136199. Map H3 shopping enthusiasts. In the Map F5 Racconigi, 32 bis. by Parisian ceramic artist Astier de Villatte. Lange & Sohne, Longines, Ulysse Nardin, The backbone of its fashion offerings include T: 011 3852651. Off Map heart of the city, often referred Salvini and Venini. Rocca is acknowledged for niche brands like Mimì à la Mer, Laura Urbinati, Les Coquettes L’AUTRE CHOSE—www.lautrechose.com its longstanding tradition of professionalism Ouigal, Maria La Rosa and Ishi. All the furniture Housed in a 1920s Parisian-style apartment, to as ‘little ’, you’ll find Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am- WOLFORD—www.wolford.it and expert consultancy. Located in the shadow used for display is on sale. www.bagnipaloma.it. amidst vintage hat stands, drawers filled with the best fashion brands. In 7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 20/A. Open Mon 3pm-7.30pm; of the Mole Antonelliana, its founder, Alberto Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am- costume jewelry, antiques and pink leather particular, the austere and T: 011 19468000. Map F5 Tues-Wed 10am- Rocca, opened his first boutique at the end 1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10.30am- sofas, this unusual, whimsical concept store, with a slightly bohemian air, offers a selection of elegant via Roma and the 1.30pm/2.30pm- of the 18th century. Tues-Sat 11am-7pm. 7.30pm. Via dei Mille, 30/d. T: 011 888569. LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com 7.3 0 pm; www.rocca1794.com. Via Roma, 290. Map G6 clothing, delicious bijoux, cosmetics, candles, perfumes and furnishing accessories. parallel via Lagrange, do Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Via Roma, 320. Thus-Sat 10am- T: 011 5621467/5629260. Map F4 Culti House Torino www.lescoquettes.it. Open Tues-Sat 10.30am- justice to the exquisite Italian T: 011 5620678. Map E5 7.3 0 pm; LEATHER & LUGGAGE At this small, charming boutique decorated 1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via G. Barbaroux, 12/l. Sun 3.30pm-7pm. in shades of ochre and sand, you’ll find the T: 011 531943. Map F3 and international fashions on LUISA SPAGNOLI—www.luisaspagnoli.it Via A. Doria, 6. Maledetti Toscani culture of Culti, designed to stimulate the display. Alternately, a reference Open Mon 10.30am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm; T: 011 531348. This story began in 1848 in Montepulciano, senses in a mixture of design, art and fragrance. Mabì point for young, trendy Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am- Map F5 Tuscany, when the great-great grandfather of The space houses all the brand’s collections Mabì is a sought-after boutique that sells 1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. Via Roma, 61. the present owners opened a leather workshop. of room and home fragrances including couture clothing, French costume jewelry, fashion is via Garibaldi – one T: 011 547136. Map F4 Today, although Maledetti Toscani owns shops diffusers, room sprays, candles, cosmetics and artisanal footwear and natural cosmetic of the longest pedestrian • Open Mon 3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat streets in Europe – which 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm- runs from Piazza Castello to 7pm. Via G. Garibaldi, 9bis. T: 011 543447. Map F3 Piazza Statuto. The ideal place for lovers of antiques and MARINA RINALDI—it.marinarinaldi.com Tax Free Refund Guide Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. vintage items is via Po, Via Roma, 314. T: 011 5187050. Map E5 According to the Italian law, non-EU resident travellers may • the goods shall leave the EU territory by the third month document was issued. which links Piazza Castello be granted VAT relief/refund for goods intended for personal following the date of issue of the invoice, as proved by the 6. The refund can be made directly by the Italian to Piazza Vittorio Veneto. MAX & CO.—it.maxandco.com or family use purchased in Italy. This relief is surely an “customs stamp”; retailer (however, make sure that the shop you’ve Open Mon 11am-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am- advantage for the foreign travellers: in fact, it allows • from 1 September 2018, tax free invoices in Italy must chosen displays a “Tax Free Shopping” or “Euro Tax Free” 7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. to save from a minimum of 4% up to a maximum of 22% of be electronically transmitted by the national seller to sign in its window). ASPESI— www.aspesi.com Open Mon Via Roma, 69. T: 011 541276. Map F4 the selling price of the goods purchased. Here is a short OTELLO information system (Online Tax Refund at Exit: 7. Several Tax-Free companies are able to offer

3.30pm-7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. guide according to the Italian legislation to discover Light Lane Optimization) and their validation is digitally immediate VAT cash refunds when the goods Galleria San Federico, 46. T: 011 5613577. MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com the common system of value added tax exclusively for carried out. leave either Italian or EU territory (thus exonerating Map F4 Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. non-EU resident travellers. • after the digital “customs stamp” is obtained, OTELLO will the passenger from having to return the invoice to the Via Roma, 322. T: 011 5618172. Map E5 send a message to the retailer that all the requirements retailer). However, this procedure only applies at major BRUNELLO CUCINELLI— 1. VAT (in Italian: IVA) is a value added tax on goods and are met and, as a consequence, the retailer will reimburse international airports or main border crossings. Most www.brunellocucinelli.com Open Mon-Sat MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com Open Mon-Sat services, and is part of the European Union’s value added the amount due or will settle the tax relief. major department stores have Tax Free Refund 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 8. 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 6c. tax system. • the invoice is returned to the Italian retailer within offices. T: 011 4407207. Map F4 T: 011 4782004. Map F4 2. In some cases, travellers may be granted a VAT refund. four months after the purchase was made. If the invoice 8. The services provided by Tax-Free companies imply the This refund does not cover the services supplied by is stamped by other EU countries, it needs to be brought payment of a small administrative sum which is directly CALVIN KLEIN—www.calvinklein.com MONCLER—www.moncler.com Open Mon-Sat hotels, restaurants, taxis or agencies. to the shop retailer by the fourth month following that of deducted from the amount of VAT refunded to the Open daily 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Roma,342. 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. 3. You may be eligible for a VAT refund provided that: the purchase. traveller. T: 011 5613226. Map F4 T: 011 5618744 Map F4 • you are a non-EU resident; 4. The goods purchased and the relevant invoice must be 9. In the event of a traveller not receiving a VAT refund • the goods purchased are intended for personal or shown at the customs exit point when leaving EU within a reasonable period of time, he or she should re- CHANEL—www.chanel.com Open Mon-Sat MONTBLANC—www.montblanc.com family use only and are carried in your luggage; territory (if you intend to pack the purchased items into contact the Italian retailer or one of the aforementioned 10am-7pm. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2. Open Mon 3pm-7pm; Tues-Sat 10am-7pm. • the overall value of the goods purchased exceeds 154,94 your check-in luggage, you must go to Customs BEFORE companies. T: 011 5066699. Map F4 Via Roma, 104. T: 011 5187109. Euro (VAT included); checking in). 10. However, please note, VAT cannot be refunded directly Map E5 GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani com • the purchase is certified by an invoice. This invoice 5. After leaving EU territory, the traveller must return the by customs offices. should include a description of the goods purchased, original invoice, regularly endorsed by the customs Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. Piazza San Carlo, PRADA—www.prada.com Open Mon-Sat BRUNELLO CUCINELLI’s spring-summer 2021 your personal information as well as the details of your office, to the Italian retailer. Said invoice must be Source: https://www.adm.gov.it/portale/ee/citizen/otello- 145. T: 011 5627768. Map E5 10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. collection draws inspiration from the current season passport or any other equivalent document; returned within four months from the date when the english-version/legislation • Emporio Armani: Via Buozzi Bruno, 5. Via G.L. Lagrange, 2/q. T: 011 3710203. in this floral print silk plongée shirt dress. T. 011 5625977. Map F4 Map F4

28 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.whereitalia.com 29 SHOPPING [ DAILY TOURS ]

Esoteric Turin Fashion outlets Turin is a city of mystery, magic and legend. Its ‘magical’ significance Located in Piedmont, just a short distance is attributed to its geographical from Turin, don’t miss a trip to these shopping position, along the 45th parallel destinations offering year-round discounts. where the Po and Dora rivers meet. LUGANO More importantly, it creates the MENDRISIO Torino Outlet Village vertices of two triangles, a triangle of BERGAMO BRESCIA white magic and a triangle of black Vicolungo NOVARA The Style Outlets TRIESTE magic. This explains why Turin boasts ? MILANO numerous shops dedicated to arcane practices where you can purchase Torino ? books, incense, tarot cards, candles, Outlet Village plus anything else associated with LA BELLE HISTOIRE TORINO SAN CARLO DAL 1973 ALESSANDRIA the occult world. (C.Z.) See page 27 See page 29 ? PIACENZA Vicolungo The Style Outlets BOLOGNA MAR ARETHUSA ? GENOVASerravalle ADRIATICO Designer Outlet At Italy’s oldest occult bookshop, Mondovicino established in 1948, you can find a Outlet Village PPII products. Rather than fast fashion, you’ll find All the products in the collection are created MI I RIMINI comprehensive selection of publications, ? a selection of authentic clothing with a nod to using the traditional techniques of haute The Mall Sanremo books, magazines or series dedicated to PISA vintage, at this charming boutique. Garments perfumery. The alcoholic compounds are VENTIMIGLIA FIRENZE spiritual, hermetic or esoteric subjects. on sale include a collection of women’s couture filtered by hand, resulting in a sought-after Arethusa also stocks a wide range of dresses designed especially for Mabi by Maria balance of craftsmanship and innovation. MAR LIGURE tarot cards, pendulums, crystal balls, della Rocchetta, one of the two owners of the Open Tues-Sat 2.30pm-7.30pm; Sat 11am-7pm. LIVORNO ANCONA Tibetan Mala, bùzinos, runes and incense. store, who has a passion for British-style floral www.tonatto.com Via della Rocca, 14c. SIENA arethusalibreria.com prints. www.mabishop.it. Open Mon 3.30pm- T: 011 835631. Map G6 Serravalle Designer Outlet Mondovicino Outlet Village Tues-Sat 10.45am- 6.40pm. 7.30pm; Tues-Wed 10.30am-1.30pm/3pm- PERUGIA Via G. Giolitti, 18. 7.30pm; Thurs-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via della SHOES Rocca, 2/m. T: 349 2818511. Map G6 T: 011 8173373. Map F5 Bottega Velasca TORINO OUTLET VILLAGE VICOLUNGO SERRAVALLE MONDOVICINO Poncif Located in the Borgo Nuovo district, south-east ESOTERICAMENTE Since 1986, this boutique has focused on a of the centre of Turin, this artisanal shoe (and With over 90 stores of top Italian THE STYLE OUTLETS DESIGNER OUTLET OUTLET VILLAGE A reference point in the city for lovers of style designed for women, who, in spite of accessories) store for men offers customers an and international brands, as well Situated 40 minutes from Located just 90 minutes from PESCARASituated one hour from Turin, the genre. After crossing a beautiful inner their love for minimalist, no-frills fashion, are authentic Made in Italy experience. Renowned as a selection of carefully selected CORSICAdowntown Turin, this is the ideal Turin, McArthurGlen Serravalle in the province of Cuneo, courtyard in via Garibaldi, you’ll find a vast nevertheless looking to make a statement for its craftsmanship and Italian excellence, eateries, guest services, and place to spend a stylish day out is the largest Designer Outlet in Mondovicino Outlet Village offers thanks to the strikingly original designs and assortment of ritualistic objects, talismans Bottega Velasca offers a selection of classic, unusual colour combinations. In addition amenities for families, this is an where shopping, entertainment Europe. The centre’s beautiful a unique shopping experience, of Salomonic origin, tarot cards and cards casual and formal footwear. Open Mon 4pm- ROMA to the line of the Poncif brand, designed 8pm; Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/4pm-8pm; Sat and Sun elegant, relaxing place. Open daily, and relaxation combine to setting combines all the appeal of where you can find beautiful from all over the world, incense, crystals and produced by an in-house team, all the 11am-8pm. www.velasca.com. Via G. Mazzini 10am-8pm (Sat, Sun and public satisfy all requirements. luxury designer brands with the surroundings and appealing and everything required for ritualistic collections showcased are based on the same 22/e. T: 02 94755460 (bottega.torino@velasca. holidays 10am-9pm). The outlet is open 7 days a week beauties of the surrounding area. fashion brands. Open daily, from practices. The bookstore is large and well- principle. www.poncif.com. Open Mon 3.30pm- MAR TIRRENO com).Map G6 • WHERE: located in Settimo from 10 am to 8 pm. • WHERE: accessible via the A21 10 am to 8 pm. stocked. 7.30pm; Tues-Sat 10am-1pm/3.30pm-7.30pm; Hole Torinese, just 15 minutes from the • WHERE: take the A4 Torino- and A26 motorways (Novi Ligure • WHERE: take the A6 Torino- www.esotericamente.it Fri 10am-7.30pm. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 5\f. NAPOLI T: 011 8173040. Map H5 This multi-brand store located in the heart centre of Turin, 30 minutes from Milano motorway and exit at exit). A convenient shuttle bus Savona motorway and exit at Open Mon 2.30pm-7.30pm; of the city’s historic centre sells high-quality the main cities in Piedmont and 75 Biandrate Vicolungo. A daily shuttle service departs daily (9am to Mondovì. A free shuttle service, Tues-Sat 10am-7.30pm. Rrriot shop footwear distinguished by its original design. Via G. Garibaldi, 18 (courtyard). Tucked away in the creative, multi-ethnic district You’ll find a interesting mix of trendy brands minutes from Milan, near the exits service, departing at 10am from 8.20pm) from the railway stations departing from Turin (Corso T: 011 4310499. Map E3 of San Salvario, this shop, distinguished by here, including Ixos, Moma and Strategia, from the A4 and A5 motorways, Turin – Piazza Carlo Felice, 63 (in of Arquata Scrivia, Serravalle Vittorio Emanuele II corner of via its minimalist decor, mixes men and women’s alongside models by Italian and internal the Outlet is easily accessible by front of the Porta Nuova train Scrivia and Novi Ligure. Sacchi) at 9.15am, and returning clothing with vintage jewelry and accessories LIBRERIA EDITRICE PSICHE artisanal producers. Also sells bags and car. The outlet provides a daily SARDEGNAstation) is available from Turin. • WHAT: a go-to destination to the designated pick-up point and young, creative brands. Thanks to ongoing accessories. Open Mon 3.30pm-7.15pm; Tues-Fri Founded in Turin in 1978, this publisher, shuttle bus service from the • WHAT: More than 300 prestigious featuring 300 of your favourite in the city at 4.50pm, is available. publishes and sells works related to research, Rrriot strives to offer its customers 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-7.15pm; Sat 10.30am- a range of products that are always different 12.30am/3.30pm-7pm. Via G. Botero, 11. city centre and a weekly service brands, including Armani, Missoni, designer brands including Gucci, For info and reservations: 011 medicine, naturopathy, psychology, and innovative. Its aim is to introduce Turin to T: 011 5176602. Map E3 from the main tourist resorts in Trussardi, Tommy Hilfiger, Cavalli, Dolce&Gabbana, Hugo Boss, 19704670 www.zalunviaggi.com. spirituality, sophism, Buddhism, Taoism Northern European brands designed exclusively Piedmont and Valle d’Aosta. Calvin Klein and Twin Set, offering Bluemarine, Versace, La Perla, • WHAT: over 90 prestigious and numerology at its namesake for the Italian market. www.rrriotshop.com. Cribì bookstore. Tues-Fri 10.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-19.30pm; Established in 1996, and located in Turin’s highly • WHAT: a must for shopping apparel for the whole family, Pollini, Roberto Cavalli, Brooks designer stores – including a Also organizes meetings, courses and Sat 10.30am-7.30pm. Via Berthollet, 25/a. central via Lagrange, Cribi is a multi-brand lovers, it boasts 90 stores of top sportswear, homeware and Brothers, Fratelli Rossetti and Adidas, Alviero Martini 1 Classe, store selling minimalist, alternative footwear themed seminars. T: 011 19500239. Map F7 brands (Armani, Coach, Gucci, beauty products at discounted Casadei, at up to 30-70% less year- Enrico Coveri, Fratelli Rossetti, and clothing, featuring a combination of www.libreriaeditricepsiche.info Tonatto Profumi craftsmanship and experimentation to create La Perla, Michael Kors, Guess, prices of up to 70% year-round. round. Multiple customer services, Kappa and Liu.Jo Uomo with Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm- Tonatto Profumi is a key representative of elegant, timeless lines. Best sellers include Timberland, Tommy Hilfiger and • NOT ONLY SHOPPING: including free Wi-Fi, multilingual a selection of apparel for men, 7.30pm; Italian perfumery throughout the world. The boots by Fiorentini+Baker, pumps by Del Carlo more) specializing in apparel, Vicolungo The Style Outlets staff, a children’s playground, as women and children, plus Sat 9.30am-12.30am. real artistic heritage of the Maison is the and original clothing by Malloni and Liviana accessories, footwear, homeware, also hosts art exhibitions, events well as cafés and restaurants, sportswear, homeware and Via Madama Cristina, 70/b. ‘Olfattoteca’, an archive that contains hundreds Conti. www.cribibotique.it. Open Mon 3.30pm- sports gear and personal care, with and other initiatives for an make for a unique shopping beauty products at discounted T: 011 6507058. Off Map of olfactory notes where, like a haute couture 7.30 pm; Tues-Sat 10.30am-2pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. atelier, you can create your own bespoke Via G.L. Lagrange, 38. T: 011 5611348. year-round discounts of up to 70%. entertaining day’s outing. experience at unbelievable prices! prices of up to 70% year round. fragrance, based on individual requirements. Map F5 www.torinooutletvillage.com www.thestyleoutlets.it McArthurGlen.it/Serravalle www.mondovicino.it

30 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.whereitalia.com 31 DINING FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN chef’s underlying philosophy is based on the walls, hosts more than 300 labels. Open Tues-Sun TRADITIONAL search for premium-quality ingredients with a 10.30am-midnight. €€€. www.leviteletonne.com. PIEDMONTESE CUISINE particular focus on organic fruit and vegetables Via San Francesco da Paola, 4. T: 011 8124621. (all dishes are served with a side, at no additional Map G4 Cannavacciuolo Bistrot charge) and conviviality. In the evening, guests Located just steps from the Gran Madre, this can choose from a meat, fish or vegetarian menu, Plin & Tajarin Turin-based bistro owned by multi-award accompanied by homemade bread and focacce. This is small eatery resembling an artist’s studio winning Italian chef Antonino Cannavacciuolo, Open Mon-Sun 12.30pm-3am/8pm-11pm; Sun 12 rather than a restaurant. The kitchen turns out will not disappoint. The bistro offers guests noon-3pm. €€. cesaremarretti.com. Via Bertola, small masterpieces like ‘plin’ and ‘tajerin’, the a unique tasting experience featuring a 27/a. T: 011 5629038. Map E3 staples of Piedmont’s culinary tradition, which are available with numerous fillings and sauces, combination of northern and southern flavours. Le Vitel Etonné Highlights include Fassona beef tartare, including vegan and vegetarian options. Before, The standout at this restaurant located in the after or as an accompaniment, diners can order codfish with tomatoes, eggplant parmigiana heart of the centre is ‘vitello tonnato’, one ravioli with a Provola cheese sauce and pigeon meat from select Piedmont producers, delicious of the great classics of Piedmont cuisine, an ‘focaccia’ made with stone-ground flour and with blueberries and burrata (a fresh Italian absolute must-try at its namesake restaurant. buffalo milk cheese made from mozzarella traditional desserts, including amaretto ice Other specialties include ‘tajerin’, a fresh pasta cream. Open Mon-Sat 12.45pm-7.30pm; Tues-Fri and cream). Open Mon 7pm-11pm; prepared according to a traditional recipe with Tues-Sat 12.30pm-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€€. 7.45pm-10.30pm. €€€. www.plinetajarin.it. 36 egg yolks per kilo of flour, served with an array Via G. Casalis, 59. T: 011 3828128. Map B3 www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it/torino. of seasonal sauces, ‘tagliatelle’ with Bra sausage Via U. Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Map I6 and ‘agnolotti al plin’. The locale’s 19th century Porto di Savona Casa Amelie cellar, featuring barrel vaults and open brick One of the city’s oldest restaurants, Porto di A stone’s throw from the Quadrilatero Romano, and only a few months after opening, this small, welcoming locale owned by Neapolitan chef Guido Perino, was classified as one of the city’s top ten restaurants at the Fork Restaurants Awards, sponsored by Identità Golose. The chef’s creative yet simple cuisine features a combination of classic and exotic fare, premium- quality ingredients and seasonal products that will delight your taste buds. Open Mon 7.30pm- 10.30pm; Tues-Sat 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm- 10.30pm. €€. www.ristorantecasaamelie.com. Via Giulio, 4/b. T: 011 5211579. Map E2 Cianci Piola Caffè A real institution in Turin, this bustling ‘piola’ (a typical, laid-back Piedmontese tavern) offers authentic regional dishes at unbeatable prices. With tables spilling out onto the square in © DAVIDE BELLUCCA © DAVIDE warmer months, this delightful locale in the heart of the Quadrilatero Romano, serves Fassona beef tartare, ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘tajerin’ (a thin version of tagliatelle), ‘agnolotti’ and a vegetable-based Piedmontese antipasto which Classic cuisine with a twist includes tomatoes, anchovies and peppers in a sauce, accompanied by a great selection of At ‘Le Vitel Étonné’ customers can sample traditional Piedmontese dishes, subtly re-imagined to suit contemporary wines. Open 12.30pm-3.30pm/6.30pm-11pm. €€. Largo 4 Marzo, 9/b, T: 388 8767003. Map F3 tastes. The menu is enhanced by an extensive list of regional wines. By Chiara Zaccarelli Consorzio In the heart of the quaint Quadrilatero Romano, ocated in the heart of the centre, with classic Torinese grissini (breadsticks). >> www.leviteletonne.com Consorzio offers traditional cuisine, sometimes Piedmontese sushi, with raw meat just steps from Palazzo Reale and Depending on the season and the catch of Via San Francesco da Paola, 4. re-imagined with a twist, featuring ‘Made-in Piedmont’ ingredients including Piedmontese Who says that the word sushi only means fish? Located in the heart of Turin, in the city’s the Mole, this small restaurant serves the day, the restaurant also offers customers T: 011 8124621. Map H4 L beef, Cervere leeks, the hunchback thistles of central via Mazzini, Sushi dal Maslè debunks this myth, and serves Japanese inspired traditional regional dishes including, first a choice of seafood options. Standouts on Nizza Monferrato and freshly picked, garden- dishes using premium cuts of raw meat. and foremost, “vitello tonnato”, a specialty the dessert menu include mascarpone cream, grown vegetables. A harmonious combination The restaurant’s name – in Piedmontese dialect maslè means butcher – indicates that local, that the Piedmontese call Vitel Tonné as a sprinkled with bitter chocolate, on a chocolate that pays tribute to customers, chefs, breeders, farmers and wine growers. Its cheeses, sourced traditional ingredients are used, and Piedmontese Fassona beef plays a key role. Minced tribute to their foreign cousins. The name of biscuit base, or gelato and sorbets prepared in- from the best local producers, with a few forays Fassona beef or Brà sausage, combined with Nori seaweed and traditional Japanese sauces the restaurant stems from a play on the words house using seasonal ingredients. The locale’s into the rest of Italy, France or Britain for a taste give birth to tasty ‘Piémont Sushi®’, interpreted in Uramaki, Temaki and rolls, but also “tonné” and “étonné”, meaning “surprised” 19th century cellar, featuring barrel vaults and of Stilton, deserve a separate mention. Open Tartare, Sashimi and hot dishes seared on the grill. or “amazed” in French. The menu features open brick walls, hosts more than 300 Italian Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; Sat Standouts include ‘Bombetta Piemontese’ with Albese and a Robiola mousse, ‘San Carlo’ a selection of must-try strictly homemade labels, with a focus on Piedmontese reds. If 7.30pm-11pm. €€. ristoranteconsorzio.it. Via Monte di Pietà, 23. with Vitello Tonnato and Alba Hazelnuts, ‘Ficotto’ with Bra Sausage, Tomino cheese and Fig fresh pasta dishes. Specialties include classic you enjoy watching the chefs at work, grab T: 011 2767661. Map E3 Mayonnaise, or seasonal dishes like ‘Cacio e Pepe’ featuring warm Pecorino cream, black Tajarin, prepared according to a traditional a seat in the welcoming ground floor dining pepper grains and crunchy guanciale. The food is accompanied by an extensive selection recipe with 36 egg yolks per kilo of flour, room, opposite the open-plan kitchen. È Cucina This charming restaurant owned by theatrical of wines from the Piedmontese hills, and is served in a welcoming atmosphere, amidst served with an array of sauces, agnolotti, Please note: unlike most local eateries, the Florentine chef Cesare Maretti features brightly dim lighting, wood and stone furnishings, and an openplan kitchen. tagliatelle with Bra sausage and Plin. Main locale is open non-stop from midday to lit windows overlooking the street, contemporary Sushi dal Maslè. Via Mazzini 37/B. T: 351 8278722. Map G6. www.sushidelmasle.it dishes, also based on traditional recipes, are midnight. So, if you suddenly get a craving décor and an open-plan kitchen, now a popular cooked at low temperatures in hay, or breaded for tajarin at 5pm, you’ll know where to go! contemporary concept in Northern Italy. The

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Savona opened in 1863 when Turin was the capital of Italy. The restaurant is on the city’s beautiful Piazza Vittorio, and the warm interior is laid out Pastry Shops like a 19th-century tavern, with Liberty-style decor, wooden boiserie, mirrors, 1940s furnishing The traditional age-old art of pastry making is deeply rooted in Turin, and the city’s accessories and walls decorated with period Michelin-starred restaurants confectionery is famous throughout the world. Sweet treats like ‘baci di dama’, paintings and photographs. Its menu – don’t be Eight starred restaurants, serving sublime dishes infused with marron glacés and ‘giandujotti’ were invented here and exported abroad, while misled by its name – features classic Piedmont the flavours, traditions and creativity of the region await visitors to Turin. others, which are more inherently Piedmontese, are well worth discovering. It’s cuisine including ‘vitello tonnato’, ‘agnolotti’, homemade pasta, braised meat, ‘fritto misto’, therefore no surprise that the city is inundated with top-level pastry shops. Although Casa Vicina ‘bolliti’ (boiled meats), ‘Finanziera’ (a hearty dish Spazio 7 it’s impossible to mention them all, we’ve compiled a list of several that are rated top of veal offal and cockscomb cooked with Marsala in town. By Chiara Zaccarelli wine, vinegar and herbs) and, in winter ‘bagna cauda’. Open daily 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm- midnight. foodandcompany.com. €€€. Piazza CAFFÈ PLATTI Savoy biscuits, flower-based preserves, Leone Vittorio Veneto, 2. T: 011 8173500. Map H5 If you visit just one of Turin’s historic locales, candies and fruit preserved in honey. Vegan then it has to be the illustrious, belle epoque options are also available. berlicabarbis.com Scannabue Caffè Platti. Opened in 1870, it soon became Corso Moncalieri, 214. T: 011 2074508. Located in the trendy San Salvario district, a social and cultural reference point for Via Catania, 10. T:011 231032 Scannabue is extremely popular thanks to its 20th-century Turin. Here, amidst mirrors, gilded warm, laid back atmosphere and its traditional, affordable cuisine, especially among the city’s stuccoes, inlaid walnut furniture and gold Louis FARMACIA DEL CAMBIO young, hip crowd. In addition to classic regional XVI medallions, you can sample Piedmontese A sophisticated Savoy-style ‘salotto’, created in recipes, including rabbit tuna, beef tartare and specialties like ‘bunet’, Meliga pastries, ‘bignole’ the rooms of an old apothecary established in classic starters, it also serves a variety of fish and Platti cake. Since 2017, the confectionery 1883, in the city’s beautiful piazza Carignano. dishes. Its wine list features a great selection of has been run by renowned patissier Guido Here, you’ll find a fabulous assortment of Piedmont labels including Arneis, Nebbiolo and Gobino, the king of Torinese chocolate. pastries by chef Fabrizio Galla including Barbera. It’s advisable to book ahead. Open daily www.platti.it Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 72. Veneziane, Sfogliatine, almond and orange 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€. scannabue.it. Largo Saluzzo, 25/h. T: 011 6696693. LIDO VANNUCCHI T: 011 4546151. cakes, bignès, ‘bonet’, fruit tartlets, millefeuille, © Map E7 hazelnut cakes and croissants. Also worth CANNAVACCIUOLO BISTROT CONDIVIDERE the chef has opened Casa Mago, a cocktail GHIGO mention are the locale’s savoury offerings Stefano Fanti al Circolo dei Lettori Established to offer diners an elegant, unique Traditional Italian cuisine is re-interpreted bar with an adjacent pastry shop where you This historic pastry shop, located just steps which include sandwiches, savoury snacks, This unique restaurant is located at the Circolo dei experience, this restaurant highlights the by Modenese chef Federico Zanasi in a can dine, enjoy a drink or purchase delicious from the Mole, is famous for its hot chocolate, crusty bread, bagels and more. A great place Lettori, in the city’s 17th century Palazzo Graneri della Roccia. Formerly a private members club, essence of the famous Neapolitan chef contemporary key, creating haute cuisine that sweet treats. served with freshly whipped cream and for lunch or an aperitivo. farmaciadelcambio.it. the Circolo dei Lettori was a meeting place for Antonino Cannavacciuolo’s culinary art, can be enjoyed in an informal atmosphere. Corso San Maurizio, 61/b. marrons glacés (a candied chestnut covered Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 19211250. Turin’s intellectuals, writers, poets and artists, which sees traditional ingredients from his Particular attention is paid to raw materials T: 011 8126808. with a sugar glaze). At Christmas, Ghigo excels seen in the rows of artist portraits that line the homeland mixed and matched with those and to desserts that are served in a separate www.magorabin.com Map H4 with its famous ‘Nuvola di Ghigo’, a traditional GALLERIA IGINIO MASSARI restaurant’s walls. Its traditional culinary offering from Piedmont. The space has been designed area, aptly named Dulcis in fundo. Here, ‘Pandoro’ covered with a butter icing and a First pastry shop of Iginio Massari, “Best Pastry is reinterpreted with a contemporary twist by in keeping with the philosophy of Feng Shui. guests can choose from an array of different SPAZIO7 generous sprinkling of icing sugar. Chef in the World” at the World Pastry Stars chef Stefano Fantini. For an overview of regional Via Umberto Cosmo, 6. T: 011 8399893. Lavazza coffee blends accompanied by Housed in Fondazione Sandretto Re www.pasticceriaghigo.it 2019 contest. Based on a new formula that specialties, make sure to try its tasting menu and, www.cannavacciuolobistrot.it Map I6 single-servings of desserts. Rebaudengo, a centre for contemporary art, Via Po, 52/b. T: 011 887017. visualizes a series of pastry shops that differ if you’re feeling bold, opt for the ‘Finanziera’. from one another, this is a multifunctional Open 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. Via Bologna, 20A. c/o Nuvola Lavazza the dining room of Spazio 7 is an integral part space. Open throughout the day, it houses torino.circololettori.it/servizi/. CARIGNANO T: 011 0897651. of the Foundation. The cuisine offered by PASTICCERIA VENIER Via Bogino, 9. T: 011 4326828. Map G4 The culinary offerings are inspired by www.condividere.com Map H1 Alessandro Mecca, a young Chef who arrived Pasticceria Venier, located in the heart of the and open-plan workshop in the basement plus two rooms where you can sample and Piedmont’s renowned regional cuisine, here after working at several of Piedmont’s centre, is another go-to destination to start (or re-imagined by Milanese Chef Fabrizio DEL CAMBIO most historic restaurants, mirrors the end) your day on a sweet note. It’s famous for purchase Massari’s sweet treats. Here you can ETHNIC CUISINE find more tha 12 types of products, ranging Tesse, offering a cuisine rooted in Piedmont Established in 1757, it was among the foundation’s concept: young, contemporary its ‘marocchino’ (coffee served in a small glass Hafa Storie tradition with a few forays into the nearby favourite haunts of Camillo Benso, Count and open to innovation. The wine list features from cakes to fruit jellies, croissants and A Piedmont Moroccan restaurant. In Turin, this is cup, with a dark chocolate base, topped with region of Liguria. Traditional dishes of Cavour, Giacomo Casanova, Honoré de the classics of Piedmont and its neighboring bite-sized pastries, plus the signature Dolce fairly common because the city’s second largest foamed milk and a sprinkling of bitter cocoa re-imagined in keeping with contemporary. Balzac, Giuseppe Verdi, Maria Callas and regions in France. powder), but also its ‘briosche’, including its Torino, a unique gianduia chocolate plumcake foreign community is the Moroccan community, and the restaurant is located in Porta Palazzo, Via Carlo Alberto, 35. c/o Grand Hotel Sitea the Agnelli family. This restaurant is a real Via Modane, 20. custard-filled ‘torciglione’ with a hint of lemon, created exclusively to honour the city of Turin. the city’s multi-ethnic district par excellence. T: 011 5170171. Torinese institution. Chef Matteo Baronetto, of c/o Fondazione Sandretto Re Rebaudengo and its Umbertino, a biscuit resembling a ‘bacio Particolar attention is paid to packaging. www.iginiomassari.it. Piazza C.L.N., 232. While the Piedmontese offerings are created www.ristorantecarignano.it Map F5 Piedmontese origin, remains true to regional (1st Floor). T: 011 3797626. di dama’ but with, a double layer of chocolate by Christian Milone, a young, talented starred T: 011 4249343. traditions, which he reinterprets with a www.ristorantespazio7.it Off Map and two amaretti instead of shortcake. chef hailing from Trattoria Zappatori in Pinerolo, CASA VICINA creative twist. A tour of the cellar, whose Via Monte di Pietà, 22. T: 011 541592. the Moroccan dishes are prepared by Aicha the C/O GREEN PEA (LINGOTTO) 17th century aisles house 2,200 labels, VINTAGE 1997 cook. Between a seven-vegetable couscous Located in the headquarters of Green Pea, is also worth a visit. As its name suggests, it’s renowned for its and a braise with polenta, this restaurant lays TORTERIA BERLICABARBIS this restaurant is run by the Vicina family, Piazza Carignano, 2. T: 011 546690. old-world atmosphere. The restaurant’s the foundations for a harmonious, productive In dialect, ‘Berlicabarbis’ means to ‘lick your cultural exchange. Open Tues-Fri 11am-3pm/5pm- who for five generations have embraced the www.delcambio.it Map F4 culinary offerings are also true to tradition. lips’. A particularly apt name for a pastry shop 12.30am; Sat 10am-12.30am; Sun 11.30am-4.30pm. region’s tradition of hospitality, fine wines Rather than bold, creative pairings, you’ll find that turns out approximately 20 different €€. hafastorie.it. Galleria Umberto I, 10/13. and traditional cuisine, infused with prime MAGORABIN authentic Piedmontese specialties including

cakes a day, including cheesecake, tarts filled Galleria Massari Iginio T: 011 19486765. Map F2 quality ingredients. Old and familiar tastes Just steps from the Mole, this starred truffles, cheeses and meats. No-frills expertise, with custard and fresh fruit, Renetta apple are reinterpreted to give new life to the restaurant is owned by Marcello Trentini, an practiced for the past twenty years with Kay Essenza Peruviana & Piscobar caked and ricotta and pear tarts. The venue is Piedmontese recipes. eclectic Chef with a strong personality. You traditional Piedmontese professionalism. Located in the Crocetta district, this top-level infused with a warm, homely Provence-style Via Nizza, 230 c/o Green Pea (3rd Floor). can dine à la carte, or enjoy the restaurant’s Piazza Solferino, 16H. Peruvian restaurant is helmed by a team of young, atmosphere where, amidst cast iron teapots, knowledgeable staff. The menu embraces the T: 011 19506840. tasting menu by chef Marcello Trentini. T: 011 535948. French tin boxes, brightly-coloured cups and traditional flavours of every region in Peru, from its www.casavicina.com Off Map Just a little further on, in the same street, www.vintage1997.com Map E4 vintage trays, you can purchase traditional coast to its mountains, right up to the Amazonian forests, interpreted with a gourmet twist.

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Porto di Savona taken on the challenge of making one of Italy’s with either sweet or savoury ingredients while you best-loved dishes. Nineteen different versions wait. Make sure to try the house special whose of pizza take diners on a culinary journey that batter is mixed with cooked bacon and served encompasses the whole of the peninsula, from with rocket leaves and Philadelphia cream cheese. Signature Food glossary Favignana with Siccagno tomatoes, anchovy fillets, Open Mon-Sat 11.30am-7.30pm. €. dishes Mediterranean tuna fillets, capers and Sicilian www.gofriemiassepiemontesi.it. Via San From a gastronomic viewpoint, the region of Piedmont boasts some of Italy’s include olive oil to Aosta, with mozzarella, Fontina d’Aosta Tommaso, 7. T: 349 3926090. Map F4 Fassona finest, most diverse traditional foods. It is therefore no surprise that the world- Dop and hand-sliced artisanal ham. Open daily 12 beef famous ‘Slow Food’ association, an international, non-profit organization noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €€. pizza.crudotorino.com. Mollìca tartare with Via Palazzo di Città, 7/d. T: 340 2494060. Map F3 Cooked salame from Monferrato, double lard, committed to giving food back its proper value, was born here. It is also here fried marrow hand-massaged Parma ham, Toma d’alpeggio that the Italian University of Gastronomic Sciences, the first, and possibly only, bone and spicy Gusto Madre cheese with pepper and creamy gorgonzola. ‘university of taste’ in the world, was established. The amazing raw materials mayonnaise, Pizza is experiencing a renaissance. From a dish At Mollica, in piazza Madama Cristina, you can marinated scallops and of the people to a gourmet specialty, interpreted choose to have your sandwich filled with these offered by the Piedmontese region include meat, cheese, wine and truffles, and tapioca, ceviches and with numerous dough varieties, flours and or numerous other ingredients, all sourced are the basic ingredients used to create deliciously rich, tasty recipes. We’ve even a South American ingredients. If you’re feeling overwhelmed by all exclusively from small local Piedmont and Italian compiled a list of several Made in Piedmont dishes that are absolute must-tastes. interpretation of Piedmont’s these options, there are places, like Gusto Madre, producers. The bread is also heavenly! Whether B Y C. Z. classic ‘bagnetto verde’ (green sauce), that will remove any doubt. Ingredients bestowed you opt for the ‘spaccatella’, the ‘morbidoso’ or the accompanied by a carefully selected choice by Mother Nature, processed to a minimum and ‘focacciona’, there’s no way that you can go wrong of Piedmont wines. Open Tues-Sat 12 noon- combined with the creativity and skill inherent in because they’re all supplied by historic Torinese 2.45pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sun 12 noon-2.45pm. €€. time-honoured dough-making techniques, are bakery Andrea Bertino. Open Mon-Fri 12 noon- kayessenzaperuvianapiscobar.business.site. the reasons for the success of this healthy, easy- 3pm/7pm-10pm; Sat 12 noon-4pm/7pm-10.30pm. BAGNA CAUDA of braised meat (usually a mixture of beef, Via E. Torricelli, 59. T: 011 5096002. Map F2 to-digest, multi-award winning pizza. Open from €. Piazza Madama Cristina, 2 bis. T: 333 7446737. This typical winter specialty consists of a veal or pork) and Swiss chard, dressed with Wednesday to Monday. €€. www.gustomadre.it. Map F7 Oriental Daily by Kiki sauce made from garlic, extra virgin olive the pan juices of the braised meat, or butter Via G. Mazzini, 31/A T: 011 18894434. Map G6 oil and anchovies, to which butter, milk and sage. The name ‘plin’ derives from the In addition to classic sushi, sashimi and tempura, Street Fish and chopped nuts can also be added. regional dialect for ‘pinch’ because to form this fusion restaurant also serves spicy meat and Although this might seem strange in a city like Bagna Cauda is served in a terracotta each agnolotto you pinch the two sheets of fish curries, ramen, steaming noodles, Pad Thai, Turin, the best place to go for a good, fusion-style steamed ravioli, tartare, tataki and other creatives TASTING EXPERIENCE fish dish is Street Fish, a venue renowned for its pot and used as a dip for raw or cooked pasta together. dishes. Indulge your sweet tooth with one of delicious fish dishes and informal atmosphere. seasonal vegetables. If, on the one hand, the venue’s original desserts including Azuki & STREET FOOD Options on offer include fish tartare served in a it encourages conviviality, on the other, PIEDMONTESE GRAN BOLLITO MISTO bean ice cream and sweet Chawanmush, an egg Gofreria Piemonteisa corn tacos, ceviches, fish balls, a Hawaiian-style especially if you’ve overdone the garlic, you This elaborate dish of mixed boiled meats custard dish filled with cherries and wild berries. If you feel like a quick, light snack while strolling fish bowl, Thai noodles and house specials based might find people avoiding you because you is made from seven cuts of Piedmontese Piedmontese Mixed Fry Excellent value for money. Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm- around piazza Castello, then make sure to stop at on the catch of the day. Half of this small space is reek of it! veal, including the thigh muscle, shoulder 2.30pm/7pm-10.30pm; Sat 7pm-10.30pm. €€. Gofreria Piemontese. Based on a time-honoured occupied by an open-plan kitchen that allows you www.orientaldaily.it. Via Cesana, 72. T: 011 4470067. tradition, ‘gofri’ are the ‘relatives’ of the more to watch the chefs at work, while the other half and breast, and seven ‘improvers’, tongue, Off Map famous Belgian ‘gaufres’. Made from a yeast- features high counters with stools. Open daily 12 PIEDMONTESE MIXED FRY musetto (a pork sausage made in part from based batter, without eggs or milk, these mouth- noon-3pm/7pm-11pm. €. Via Conte G. Bogino, 4. This uniquely rich local specialty of a pig’s snout) and a game hen, cooked PIZZA watering waffles are deliciously light and topped T: 389 0010612. Map F5 Piedmont consists of a combination of fried for several hours in boiling water. It is Bagna Cauda A Casa di Pulcinella liver, lungs, brain, sweetbreads, liver veins, accompanied by seven tasty sauces, and An informal locale which, as its name suggests, a slice of veal, sausage, sweet semolina, a side of vegetables. One of the favourite serves a fabulous Neapolitan pizza, accompanied amaretti biscuits and apples, accompanied dishes of Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, and by a wide selection of craft and other beers. by pan-fried carrots or mixed vegetables. Vittorio Emanuele, Piedmont’s ‘bollito misto’ Thanks to a natural, slow-leavening process, the Not a dish for the faint-hearted. even has its own brotherhood. pizza dough is light, tasty and easy to digest. Ingredients include the classics for which AGNOLOTTI DEL PLIN Neapolitan pizza is renowned but also those VITELLO TONNATO of traditional Italian regional cuisine, ranging These small filled ‘pouches’ are made with This classic ‘antipasto’ of Piedmont cuisine from a Margherita topped with Bufala Campana a thin sheet of dough, stuffed with a filling is made from poaching the ‘girello’ cut of mozzarella to a version with Moncalieri sausage. ‘Fassona’ veal (a prized Piemontese breed Open Tues-Sat 12pm-3pm/6.30pm-10.30pm. €€. of veal) in a stock with aromatic herbs and

www.acasadipulcinella.it. Corso Rosselli, 82. white wine, sliced thinly and served cold BOSCHERINO/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM GIOVANNI T: 011 595457. Off Map © with a traditional sauce made from tuna fish, Vitello Tonnato Bakery Restaurant & Pizza egg yolks, capers, extra virgin olive oil, white Tucked away in a peaceful area of the city, not wine, lemon juice, salt and pepper. far from the Porta Nuova station, this pizzeria/ restaurants boasts a wood-fired oven that BONET turns out a slow-rising, Neapolitan-style pizza, Bonet, pronounced bunet, is a soft, rich, featuring a soft, crunchy dough and high-quality ingredients. Diners can choose from among a deliciously old-fashioned dessert that can variety of classic toppings, with a few regional be eaten with a spoon. Bonet is made from references including sausage and ‘friarelli’ sugar, eggs, milk, cocoa, rum and dry amaretti (broccoli rabe), or gorgonzola, pears and walnuts. biscuits. An unusual feature of this recipe is Its well-stocked cellar boasts a number of highly that it’s baked in a Bain Marie in the oven. select labels from Italy’s best wine producers. A Bain Marie, or hot water bath, is a slow, Open Mon-Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm/7.30pm-11pm; natural culinary technique that is used to Sat 7.30pm-11pm. €€. www.bakerytorino.it. cook delicate foods, over a low temperature, Via Avigliana, 47/a. T: 011 4337074. Map B3 LE VITEL ETONNÉ using the steam the Bain Marie creates. It Crudo fa la Pizza! preserves the softness of the dessert and Located just steps from Palazzo Reale and the Mole, this small restaurant serves traditional Crudo is an award-winning food company,

TENNIS/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM facilitates the formation of a delicious crust

regional dishes including “vitello tonnato”, a specialty that the Piedmontese call “Vitel CAZZANTI/ SHUTTERSTOCK.COM VALENTINO

© Bagna Cauda Bonet boasting two osterie and a bistro in the city, Tonné”. Main dishes are based on traditional recipes, such as homemade fresh pasta, the on its surface. © renowned for their fresh high-quality ingredients, classic Tajarin, agnolotti and plin. www.leviteletonne.com sourced from only the finest producers. It has now

36 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.whereitalia.com 37 FOOD&WINE FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN and patented the famous Pinguino®, the classic ice FOOD SHOPS ITALIAN GELATO cream on a stick covered with chocolate that soon became popular throughout the rest of the world. Borgiattino Alberto Marchetti In addition to the classic vanilla version, Pepino A reference point in Turin for lovers of traditional You can sample Alberto Marchetti’s award-winning offers a variety of different options including Piedmont cheeses, including Tome and Fontine ice cream at various locations across the city. coffee, gianduja, mint and coconut. Open Fri-Sat d’alpeggio, Robiola, Gorgonzola, Ormea and The highlights of its ‘creations’ are its freshness, 9.30am-10.30pm; Sun-Thurs 9.30am-8.30pm. Castelmagno. Located in the heart of the city, simplicity and the quality of its ingredients that www.gelatipepino.it. Piazza Carignano, 87. this historic ‘bottega’ also offers specialties conjure up childhood memories of only the most T: 011 542009. Map F4 from other Italian and European regions authentic gelato. In particular, thanks to the including Reblochon from France and Cheddar Slow Food project, which protects small, local from Britain, accompanied by wines and other producers, it offers a selection of unique flavours Mara dei Boschi high-quality artisanal products. Open Mon-Sat including ice cream made with Leonforte peaches, Its natural ice cream made from only the finest 8.30am-1pm/4pm-7.30pm. borgiattino.com. Ribera wild strawberries, Mombaruzzo amaretti ingredients without preservatives or additives, Corso Vinzaglio, 29. T: 011 5629075. Map C4 or Moscato Passito from Strevi. Open Mon-Thurs won the venue a mention in the Gambero Rosso 12noon-midnight; Fri-Sat 12noon-1am; Sun 11am- Guide, and is one of of the best ice cream parlours Gastronomia (La) 11pm. www.albertomarchetti.it. Corso Vittorio in Italy. Mara dei Boschi, a constantly evolving ice VEGAN A vegan delicatessen where you Emanuele II, 24bis. T: 011 8390879. Map E5 * cream parlour, uses innovative techniques to revive can eat on-site, order take-aways, or even take Via Po, 35bis. T: 011 8141160. Map G4 * the flavours of the past. Its specialty is Marotto, an cookery courses. Its dishes, all cooked with Piazza CLN, 248. T: 011 544383. Map F5 interpretation of Turin’s classic gianduotto made meat-free ingredients, include Seitan, Russian with white truffles from Alba and hazelnuts from and Capricciosa salad and a strictly anchovy- Gelateria Pepino the Langhe. This fabulous milk-free ice cream is an free Piedmont green sauce for vegans who are UNIQUE Situated in Piazza Carignano, in the ideal option for vegans. Open Mon-Thurs 12noon- fans of Piedmont specialties. The deli is located heart of Turin, Pepino is one of Italy’s oldest ice 11pm; Sat and Sun 12noon-midnight. Via Berthollet, in via Dante Nenni, in the heart of Borgo San cream parlours that has been producing high- 30/h. T: 011 0769557. www.maradeiboschi.com. Paolo, Turin’s historical, working class district. quality ice cream since 1884. In 1939, it invented Corso De Gasperi, 57/e. T: 011 18891679. Off Map Open Mon-Thus 10am-8pm; Fri 10am-10pm. Sat 9.30am-2.30pm. gastronomiaveg.it. Via Dante di Nanni, 116. T: 011 3828605. Off Map

Làit e Formagg Located just steps from the centre, this small, well-stocked shop sells Piedmontese and other cheese specialties (Parmesan cheese, ricotta, aged cheeses, ‘tomini’, ‘caprini’, herb- flavoured cheeses and more) which can be sampled with tantalizing sauces, high-quality charcuterie and other regional specialties including grissini, lingue di suocera (a type of biscuit which translates literally as mother-in- law’s tongues) and other typical sweet treats, such as Piedmontese biscuits and hazelnut cakes. From October to January, you’ll also find precious white truffles from Alba. Open Mon 11am-2pm/4pm-8pm; Tues-Sat 8am-2pm/4pm- 8pm. www.alformaggi.it. Via Madama Cristina, 18. T: 011 6699407. Off Map

Turin’s temple of tea Latteria Bera Situated just a short distance from Piazza La Via del Tè has been synonymous with premium-quality teas, fruit infusions and blends permeated with the Castello, this old-world, family-run ‘latteria’ aromas of far-off lands, for more than 50 years. A treat, in all its aspects, for tea aficionadios By Giulia Minero (dairy shop) sells cheese and traditional Italian and Piedmontese charcuterie and pickles. The cheeses on offer include Parmigiano Reggiano, Robiola from Roccaverano, Caciocavallo from he story of La Via del Tè began in see, smell and select the infusion that best >> Via Carlo Alberto, 1/I Potenza, Morozzo and Toma-flavoured butter. Authentic delicacies of Piedmont Florence in 1961, when young Alfredo suits them. Here, amidst wood furnishings T: 011 837017. Map G4 Other delicacies on offer include freshly Turin’s most famous fresh pasta can be found at Pastificio Defilippis in the heart of via Carrai travelled to China for the first and shelves, customers can choose from www.laviadelte.it whipped cream and Greek yoghurt. Open Mon- T Tues 9.30am-1.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Thus-Sat Lagrange. It has been here since 1872, when Domenico Toso, chef to the House of Savoy, time to deepen his knowledge of tea, the among over 250 products including Oolong, 9.30am-2pm/3pm-7.30pm. www.latteriabera.com. returned to Turin, following the royal family’s move from Florence. Established as a small second most widely drunk beverage in white and whole leaf green teas from China Via San Tommaso, 13/a. T: 328 0166854. Map F3 artisanal workshop in the 20th century, the high quality and unmistakable flavour of the world, and to introduce its culture and and Japan, plus other precious varieties from Defilippis pasta have contributed to making via Lagrange the street of gourmets in search consumption to Italy. More than 50 years India, Sri Lanka, Taiwan and Africa, scented Pescheria Gallina of the most authentic flavours of Piedmontese tradition. Fresh egg pasta made with select later, the company is still helmed with the blends, fruit infusions and herbal teas. The Now run by the fourth generation, this historic fishmonger located in Porta Palazzo’s piazza del ingredients, Piedmontese ‘tajarin, ‘plin’ ravioli, ‘agnolotti’ stuffed with braised beef and same passion by the Carrai family, boasting product range also includes classic tins, mercato has been in business for over a century. ravioli filled with truffles, fondue or pumpkin, depending on the season, plus fresh bronze six mono-brand boutiques, including one transparent fabric or cotton muslin tea bags, Its wonderfully fresh fish, mainly sourced from the extruded durum wheat pasta, can be purchased to take away, or sampled on-site. located in the shadow of the Mole, where gift boxes and tea-flavoured delicacies, as Ligurian Sea, guaranteeing that it was caught just Since 2008, its elegant spaces, decorated with wood furnishings, have also housed a customers can immerse themselves in the well as a wide selection of teapots, cups and 24 hours earlier, can be eaten on-site. Customers delicatessen and a gourmet restaurant on two floors, where you can taste the great classics magical world of tea. The Torinese concept accessories in cast-iron, glass and porcelain can choose their order directly from the counter or opt for its fixed-price menu, which include the of the city’s pasta-making traditions interpreted in tantalizing recipes and accompanied store, which is situated in the heart of the city, from far-off countries. Connoisseurs or catch of the day, focaccia, a glass of house wine by a good selection of wines. The restaurant is open daily for lunch and dinner. revolves around an old-world “aromateque”, customers who want to try new blends can and a bottle of water. Open Mon-Fri 07am-3pm; Pastificio Defilippis. Via Lagrange, 39. T: 011 542137. www.pastificiodefilippis.it. where glass jars containing a variety of teas enjoy a regenerating cup of welcome tea from Sat 7.30am-5pm. www.pescheriagallina.com. Piazza from all over the world allow customers to a samovar on a side counter. della Repubblica, 14/b. T: 011 5213424. Map F2

38 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.whereitalia.com 39 TASTING | WINE EXPERIENCE TASTING

Abbazia Novecella control, to allow a “spontaneous” fermentation; detect notes of incense, propolis, smoke, tobacco, a reference to ethics, ecology and nature is coffee, nougat, caramel. While for the family therefore very much present. of fruity aromas we must imagine a mature, Once the alcoholic fermentation is concluded, dehydrated, candied, baked fruit, preserved in the winemakers proceed with the subsequent alcohol (such as baked apple, candied lemon, dry passage of ageing, which takes place, at their fruit, cherry or plum preserved in alcohol)… and if discretion, in glass, steel, amphora, cement or we are referring to an excellent wine, there will be wood. many other perfumes and aromas to discover. Depending on the white grape variety used, the As regards the fourth taste examination, the period for which the skins are retained and the aftertaste, we can generally define this as long ageing method adopted, wines are obtained and persistent, with all the perceived aromas. with colour tones ranging from ancient gold There is no real typical aftertaste of Orange to topaz, from orange to amber; the hues can wines, but only qualities that distinguish a “well be bright, lively and intense, sometimes even made” product from one “made less well” and with a certain opalescence, because they are mean you are tasting a harmonious, persistent CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER not normally clarified and filtered and are, and elegant wine. Certified Wine Expert and Owner in any case, also virtually sulphite-free. of Milano Wine Affair. Board member FROM FRIULI TO CONQUER THE WORLD of FISAR Milan Delegation. A HARMONY OF PERFUMES The pioneer of the rebirth of macerated wines is AND AROMAS TO DISCOVER an Italian producer, Joško Gravner. In the late Of German origin, but Milanese by adoption If this is your first time tasting a macerated white 1990s he went against convention, overturning for many years now. With a passion for wine wine, your nose and palate will be surprised all the concepts of winemaking of that time. in her blood, she has found her vocation by the flavours and aromas. We are not During a stay in California, he encountered the in Italy. Thanks to her activities, Milano referring to the “skin-contact wines” of 20 years presence of uniform, characterless wines on Wine Affair is spreading the culture of wine, ago, which perhaps had a few defects due to the market. He therefore decided to change approaching both companies and visitors to incorrect choices in the vineyard or the lack of direction and take a trip to the cradle of wine, Milan, creating multisensory experiences in hygiene standards in the wine cellar; we are Georgia. There he found the right inspiration the form of wine-tasting, events, seminars, referring to more intense, mature, plant-based and, returning to his winemaking estate in teambuilding, entertainment and travel. and balsamic scents, such as aromas of resin, Gorizia (in Friuli), he began experimenting with Mediterranean maquis, pine and eucalyptus. vines, amphorae and ancient methods. This s early as 5000/6000 years ago in More enveloping, fuller flavours, with lively combination of ancient practices and modern the Caucasus (Georgia), Orange tannins (which make the mouth dry and rough) experimentation made him famous all over the Wines were produced in buried and mineral salts more present, which as a whole world. He was then joined by a close circle of amphorae. This technique was increase the body of the wine. local winemaking friends, such as Radikon, Maule also used in the past in Europe, But beware, do not allow yourself to be deceived and others. but after the two world wars by your habits: if you do not “find” certain A short documentary tells the story of Orange it was completely forgotten. It was only at habitual signs and aromas, you must not judge Wines since 1997, explaining in detail the theA start of the 1990s when a small group of these wines negatively solely because they origins of that wave that has now spread all experienced winemakers from Friuli revived diverge from traditional tastes. over the world: “Skin Contact: Development of A thousand it by experimenting with the ancient technique What can you expect then? On the nose you will an Orange Taste”. combined with modern scientific know-how, thus achieving excellent production levels. Gravner Today there are wine-growers all over the world shades of orange devoted to this outstanding product. HOW DOES VINIFICATION TAKE PLACE Latest trend or age-old recipe? AND WITH WHAT DIFFERENCES? Loved, criticised and the object of The difference between the various methods of production determines the more or less intense debate among experts, Orange “orange” colour. In short, white wine is vinified Wines are wines from the ancient as though it were red wine: so the grapes are tradition, re-evaluated through not pressed and separated immediately after the harvest, but rather the components of the history as superior products. juice, skin and berries are allowed to macerate together for a variable period, from one day up to a few months. The maceration of the skins has BY CORNELIA G. HASSMÜLLER the effect of extracting those substances that are responsible for the tactile taste sensation and coloration of the wine. Fermentation usually takes place thanks to Gravner indigenous yeasts and without temperature

40 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.whereitalia.com 41 TASTING | WINE EXPERIENCE TASTING

• Damijan Podversic “Nekaj” Grape variety: Nekaj 100% AUTHOR'S Maceration on skins: for 60-90 days Ageing: 3 years in large casks, then 1 year in the bottle TIPSHere is a selection of excellent www.damijanpodversic.it macerated wines from the North to the South of Italy, which have maceration • Skerk on the skins as the thread running Grape variety: Vitovska 100% through them, but with very variable Maceration on skins: on average, times and methods, which may be 10 days in wooden vats differentiated by ageing in steel, glass, Ageing: 12 months in small wooden vats, amphora, cement or wood. then 12 months in 50 hl wooden casks www.skerk.com

Angiolino Maule Skerk AngiolinoVeneto Maule “Pico” Grape variety: Garganega 100% AbbaziaAlto-Adige di Novacella “Hora” Maceration: 2-3 days Tre Monti Grape variety: Sylvaner 100% Ageing: 12 months in large 15 hl casks Maceration on skins: for 10 days www.angiolinomaule.com Ageing: 24 months in 30 hl oak casks and 18 months in barriques www.abbaziadinovecella.it Emilia-

TreR Montiomagna “Vitalba” DettoriSardinia “Dettori bianco” Grape variety: Albana 100% Grape variety: Vernaccia 100% Maceration: 95 days Maceration on skins: for 10 days Ageing: 10 months in Ageing: 24 months in 30 hl oak casks Georgian amphorae (kvevri) and 18 months in barriques www.tremonti.it www.tenutedettori.it

DonLazio Chisciotte FrankSicily Cornelissen “Munjebel bianco“ Grape variety: Fiano 100% Damijan Podversic Grape variety: Grecanico Dorato 50%, Maceration: 8-15 days Carricante 50% Ageing: 8 months in steel Maceration on skins: for 4 days www.ildonchisciotte.net Ageing: 18 months in fibreglass tanks www.frankcornelissen.it

Friuli-Venezia Do you like this subject? If Giulia you’re in Milan, would you like • Gravner “Ribolla Gialla Anfora” to get to know Italian wine Grape variety: Ribolla Gialla 100% better, having fun at the same Maceration on skins: long maceration time? Cornelia G. Hassmüller in buried Georgian amphorae organises wine-tastings, Ageing: 5 months in amphora, wine games and tours in the then 6 years in large oak casks surrounding area. www.gravner.it Info and contacts: [email protected] – www.milanowineaffair.com

Don Chisciotte

42 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.whereitalia.com 43 ENTERTAINMENT FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN La Drogheria AFTER DINNER Tucked away under the arcades of piazza Vittoria, La Hiroshima Mon Amour Drogheria is a stylish cocktail bar with an international Founded in the Eighties, Hiroshima Mon Amour is a feel. The atmosphere is just right and created with go-to events space for lovers of music, theatre and a mixture of vintage furnishings and contemporary culture. Located near the Lingotto railway station, works of art. In addition to cocktails, it offers a wide over the years it has become a reference point for choice of wines and liqueurs, accompanied by a events, music festivals, DJ sets, concerts featuring fabulous selection of finger food, focacce and hot, Italian and international artists, exhibitions and bite-sized pizzas. Open Mon-Thurs 5pm-to 2am; clubbing. www.hiroshimamonamour.org. Fri 5pm-3am; Sat 10am-3am; Sun 10am-2am. Via Bossoli, 83. T: 011 3176636. Off Map www.la-drogheria.it. Piazza Vittorio Veneto, 18/d. T: 011 8122414. Map H5 Jazz Club Torino Located just steps from Piazza San Carlo, the Jazz Lanificio San Salvatore Club is justifiably one of Turin’s best venues for Italian Located in the trendy, vibrant San Salvario district, jazz. A meeting place for lovers of the genre, its offers this former wool mill serves high-quality cocktails a diverse program of concerts with an emphasis on accompanied by a rich buffet of large, tantalizing contemporary trends and up-and-coming artists. The dishes that are also suitable for vegetarians. venue also hosts a restaurant and lounge bar where Highlights include an interesting wine list, including guests can relax and enjoy a meal or a drink while numerous organic labels, plus a good selection of listening to the music. Open Wed-Thurs 8.30pm- classic cocktails. The venue also organizes themed midnight; Fri 8.30pm-2am; Sat 8.30pm-3am; Sun: see evenings and live concerts. Open: Mon-Thurs calendar. www.jazzclub.torino.it. Via S. Francesco da 6pm-2am; Fri-Sat 6pm-3am; Sun 11am-2am. Paola corner of via Giolitti. T: 011 882939. Map G5 Via Sant’Anselmo, 30. T: 011 0867568. Map F7 Les Arcades THEATRES This informal locale in the Porta Nuova district, made headlines a few years ago due to Tamango, Teatro Carignano a hallucinogenic cocktail, that everyone, including One of the most important theatres in Turin, it was the BBC, talked about. Based on a secret recipe the place where the king went to watch plays. Dating and prepared with a mix of African plants and roots, back to 1700, it is run by the prestigious Teatro Stabile Tamango gets its red colour from roselle leaves, di Torino and located in the city’s beautiful piazza a species of hibiscus, which apparently prompts a Carignano. It has a reputation for producing theatre sense of euphoria and a desire to dance. Open of the highest standards and presents an unrivalled Tues-Sat 9.30pm-4am. Via Fratelli Calandra, 10. range of classics, new plays and family entertainment. T: 339 852806. Map G6 Open Tues-Sat 1pm-7pm. www.teatrostabiletorino.it. Piazza Carignano, 6. T: 011 5169555. Map F4 Piano35 Your home Italy’s highest panoramic lounge bar is housed in Teatro Nuovo the skyscraper designed by Renzo Piano to host the Teatro Nuovo is Turin’s temple of dance. In addition to restaurant offices of the Intesa Sanpaolo bank. Here you can the Teatro Nuovo Foundation, it is home to the Teatro Dedicated to those who want to taste amazing cocktails created by multi-starred bar Nuovo Company, the Regional Dance Academy, the experience the real regional culinary tender Mirko Turconi accompanied by an assortment Teatro Nuovo School of Fine and Performing Arts, tradition, the typical products of the of delectable finger food. The venue offers Choral Music and Musical Theatre and the Valentino breathtaking views over a winter garden and the city Cinema. Though mainly used to stage musicals, it territory and recipes handed down of Turin. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. also hosts concerts, ballets and operettas. Open through the generations of Italian www.grattacielointesasanpaolo.com. daily. www.teatronuovo.torino.it. Corso M. d’Azeglio, families. The “Cesarine” network Corso Inghilterra, 3. T: 0114387837. Map B4 17. T: 011 6500211. Off Map A signature cocktail - spread out over 140 Italian cities Teatro Regio with over 1000 amateur chefs - has APERITIVI Located in the highly central Piazza Castello, Teatro Want an aperitivo or after-dinner drink at an exceptional location that serves irresistible, beautifully presented become established over recent years Regio is the ‘grande’ dame of Turinese theatres. The cocktails? You’ll find both at Smile Tree in Turin. By Giulia Minero Ballantine’s with this very aim: to offer a complete Established in 1971, this was the first American Bar venue was commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II at gastronomic experience by opening ever opened in Italy. A reference point in the centre the beginning of the 18th century and designed by of the city for aperitivi, it offers a great selection of Filippo Juvarra. The theatre’s history is inextricably up the doors of home with lunches and hy limit yourself to a traditional containers, chosen to highlight the aromatic wines and cocktails but also fresh fruity non-alcoholic linked to several of the world’s most illustrious dinners, personalised show cooking, musicians including Arturo Toscanini, cocktail when you can sample a notes of the ingredients, is presented like a drinks for teetotalers. Also a popular lunchtime spot. cooking competitions, visits to markets Open Mon-Sat 8am-noon; Sun 5pm-10pm. Corso G. Giacomo Puccini and Richard Strauss. Today signature cocktail customized work of art. The cocktail list features a variety of or local producers or catering in W Matteotti, 25. T: 011 5628849. Map D5 it presents an exciting international program for you? Smile Tree, one of the trendiest fabulous options including ‘Buenos Dias’ with of operas, ballets and concerts. Open Tues- exclusive locations. Having lunch with destinations in Turin for lovers of mixology, tequila, mezcal, a blood orange liqueur, coffee, Beena Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat 10.30am4pm. an Italian family, with dishes prepared This venue offers a delectable Indian-style apericena www.teatroregio.torino.it. and those in search of a cocktail infused with chocolated-flavoured bitters, cardamom and following the typical traditions of the unconventional flavours, was founded and white chocolate foam or non-alcoholic choices (more than an aperitivo and less than a dinner). Piazza Castello, 215. Instead of a buffet, the menu includes a cocktail and T: 011 8815557. Map F3 local cuisine, tasting the wines of the inspired by this philosophy. Located in the heart like ‘Lanterna Verde’ made with grapefruit seven appetizers, served at your table and cooked territory, is a truly unique experience! of the Quadrilatero Romano, with an outdoor juice, cucumber extract, mint leaves, green while you wait in a traditional Tandoori oven. A full And from this year live cooking courses area facing onto a charming square behind the Tabasco with hot chili pepper and millefiori, all immersion into the aromas and flavours of India.Open and virtual appointments are available Santuario della Consolata, this cocktail bar with accompanied by fresh and dried fruit, vegetable Tues-Sun 6pm-2am. beenaristoranteindiano.it. Via Lombroso, 22. T: 349 7078645. Map F7 on the cesarine.com website, in both its dim lighting and elegant ambience offers chips and tasty vegan dishes. Italian and English, so you can continue a well-stocked list of dry, semi-dry, bitter-sweet to learn family recipes and all the or salty cocktails, designed to suit the individual >> Smile Tree Among LA DROGHERIA's signature cocktails, “La Torre” (Tiki style) and “Il Sole” secrets of traditional cuisine. tastes of its clientele. Particular attention is Piazza della Consolata, 9C. (American style) propose a journey into the www.cesarine.com focused on presentation. Each drink, served in T: 331 1848136. Map E2

© ALBERTO CHIARIGLIONE © ALBERTO mysterious world of the Tarot. glasses, ampoules or beautifully–shaped glass www.smiletreetorino.com

44 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.whereitalia.com 45 MUSEUMS & FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN SIGHTSEEING | ATTRACTIONS Allianz Juventus Stadium to the above, this must-visit museum offers a ramp that leads to the autodrome (www.8gallery. Designed to host up to 41,507 spectators, the fabulous program of major exhibitions by Italian it) and the ‘Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli’, a small art gallery packed with masterpieces. On Allianz Stadium is the sixth largest stadium in Italy and international artists. The Art Library and the exiting the Pinacoteca you can visit the rooftop test and the largest in Piedmont. Better known as the Photographic Archives of Turin’s Civic Museums are track and admire the ‘Bolla’, the bubble-shaped, Juventus Stadium, it is owned by the Juventus headquartered at GAM. Open Tues-Sun 10am-6pm. blue glass meeting room. The old Carpano plants, Football Club whose home matches have been Closed on Monday. Museum full ticket price: €10. lying adjacent to the Lingotto complex, are now played here since 2011, the year when the facility www.gamtorino.it. Via Magenta, 31. T: 011 4429518. Map C5 occupied by ‘Eataly’s’ vast food market. (www.eataly. was opened. One of the most avant-garde, eco- net). Lingotto: Via Nizza, 294. compatible facilities in the world, in addition to J-Museum (Juventus Museum) Off Map being one of the two architectural symbols of Located in the Allianz Stadium complex, in the modern-day Turin, the Stadium is one of the city’s northwestern area of Turin, the J-Museum is Mole Antonelliana major hubs of tourist attraction. The complex dedicated to the history and triumphs of the Juventus The Mole has been an architectural landmark of the also houses Area 12, a shopping mall featuring a Football Club. Opened in 2012, it is one of the world’s city since 1889. Named after its creator, architect hypermarket, shops and several restaurants. The best and most innovative sports museums. State-of Alessandro Antonelli, the Mole was purchased by J-Museum, the first official football museum of the the-art technology, memorabilia and an adrenalin- the Municipality of Turin and made into a monument ‘bianconera’ team is hosted inside the east area. filled atmosphere offer fans a unique, memorable of national unity. At the time of its construction it www.juventus.com/it/stadium-e-museum. experience. By purchasing a combined Museum and was the highest brick building in Europe, standing Corso Gaetano Scirea, 50. T: 899 999897. Stadium Tour ticket you can also visit several areas of at a height of 167 metres. Built according to eclectic Off Map the Allianz Stadium that are generally off-limits to the 19th century architectural techniques, the Mole rises through layers of windows and pseudo- Basilica di Superga public. Open from 16 September to 15 March, Mon- Greek columns to a huge ribbed cupola and a Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II as a Fri 10.30am-6pm; Sat-Sun and Holydays 10.30am- needlelike spire. On the top, a twelve-pointed star thanksgiving to the Virgin Mary for Turin’s 7.30pm. Closed on 25 December and every Tuesday is silhouetted against the Turinese skyline. Inside, deliverance from the French siege of 1706, (unless matchday). The ticket office closes one hours a panoramic, glass elevator takes visitors on a ride the Basilica is one of the many masterpieces before the museum. Matchday opening hours: see through the roof of the museum’s vast atrium and by architect Filippo Juvarra, who designed it official site. Full ticket price: €15. www.juventus.com/ up 85 metres inside the tower to the 360-degree according to the style of the era with a colonnaded it/stadium-e-museum. Via Druento 153. observation platform at the top of the cupola. The portico, cloisters (the building still houses a friars’ T: 011 4530486. Off Map view of Turin and its surrounding Alpine range is convent) and a dome. Situated on one of the Lingotto absolutely spectacular. Visitors can also access hills surrounding Turin and framed by the Alpine This complex of cream coloured concrete and glass the panoramic deck on foot by climbing the 573 mountain range, the Basilica dominates the city buildings, built in 1916, based on a project by Matté steps located inside the cavity of the cupola (by and offers visitors a breathtaking view that is even Trucco to house the FIAT factory (now FCA), still reservation from Monday to Friday, and without more stunning when viewed from the top of the symbolizes the wealth of the city. Reconverted by reservation on Saturdays, Sundays and public dome (131 steps). After visiting the tombs of the Renzo Piano in the 1980s, it now hosts the pavilions holidays). Since 2000, the Mole Antonelliana has Savoy family, the Popes’ chamber and the royal of Lingotto Fiere, the headquarters of major events hosted the National Museum of Cinema. apartments, you can walk around the building to including Automotoretrò (www.automotoretro. Via Montebello, 20. T: 011 8138563. see the memorial that pays tribute to the ‘Grande it) and the International Book Fair; the ‘8 Gallery’ Map H4 Torino’. In 1949, a plane carrying the entire Turin shopping mall, where you can admire the spiral football team on their return from an away match crashed into the side of the church, killing all on board. Although the Basilica can be reached by car or public transport, one of the most picturesque ways of accessing it is by the Rack Tramway, an original 1934 tram which rattles the 3km up the hillside. Strada Basilica di Superga, 73. T: 011 8997456. Tramway: Piazza Modena, 6. Off Map The “Living Room” of Turin Castello di Rivoli - Museo d’Arte With its arcades, period palaces and historic cafés, Piazza San Carlo holds the record for the most elegant Contemporanea The headquarters of Turin’s Museum of and picturesque square in the city. By Chiara Zaccarelli Contemporary Art since 1984, the Castello di Rivoli, a masterpiece of Baroque art designed by Filippo Juvarra in 1718, is located outside the ormerly a parade ground and the Overlooking the square to the east is the and various social and cultural events, as well city, at the entrance to Val di Susa. The museum offers a rich collection of works documenting the city’s marketplace, Piazza San 17th century Palazzo Solaro del Borgo as celebrations honouring Juventus, Turin’s latest artistic trends. Highlights include works by FCarlo is located along an axis which still retains the imprint of the original football team. The square is lined with an array Sol Lewitt, Richard Long, Michelangelo Pistoletto, bisected by the highly central via Roma. design by Castellamonte. Featuring lavishly of cafes, where intellectuals and men of culture, Transavanguardia, Maurizio Cattelan, Vanessa Considered the most beautiful square in decorated 18th century rooms, the Palazzo but also noblemen and members of the royal Beecroft, as well as new generation artists. Open Tues-Fri 10am-5pm, Sat-Sun 10am-7pm. Closed on the city, it still preserves the harmonious is now home to the Accademia Filarmonica family, would meet. Among these, standouts Monday, 1 January, 1 May, 24-25 and 31 December. 17th century appearance that architect (Philharmonic Accademy). The short, south- include Caffè San Carlo, which opened in 1842 Full ticket price: €8.50. www.castellodirivoli.org. gave it when it was westerly side of the square is bordered by and was one of the favourite haunts of Camillo Piazza Mafalda di Savoia, Rivoli. T: 011 9565280. Off Map

originally built. Spread over an area of 12,768 the Baroque facades of the twin churches Benso, Count of Cavour, Caffè Torino, which ITALYPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM © ENRICOALIBERTI square meters, it is a rectangle of perfect of Santa Cristina and San Carlo. However, was patronized by Cesare Pavese and Alcide GAM - Galleria Civica d’Arte Moderna e proportions with an equestrian statue Piazza San Carlo is not as famous for its De Gasperi and Confetteria Stratta, which still Contemporanea PALAZZO CARIGNANO of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy, monumental appearance as it is for the boasts its original 1836 furnishings. Here, in GAM boasts an extraordinary collection of Built between 1679 and 1684 by , this impressive Baroque building in Piazza affectionately known to locals as important social role that it has played addition to numerous sweet treats, you’ll also 45,000 works by renowned 19th and 20th-century Italian and European artists, including Balla, Carlo Alberto features a monumental, curvilinear terracotta façade that anticipates the layout the ‘Caval ëd Bronz’ (the Bronze Horse), at since it was first built. It is not therefore find traditional giandujotti, the delicious and Severini Boccioni, De Chirico, Dix, Ernst and Klee. of the interior spaces. The headquarters of the National Museum of the Italian Risorgimento its centre. The monument shows the 16th surprising that it is described as “The Living most symbolic hazelnut chocolate of Piedmont. Highlights include paintings, sculptures, drawings, has numerous historical treasures, including a highly specific library and two original century Italian hero in the act of sheathing Room of Turin”: it was, and continues to be, installations, videos and photos, plus one of the parliament chambers. www.museorisorgimentotorino.it most important collections of video art. In addition his sword after the victory of San Quintino. a site for concerts, political demonstrations >> Piazza San Carlo. Map F4 PH © AURALAURA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

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Musei Reali and famous advertising campaigns and to explore the circuit of the Royal Residences of Turin and In 2014, in-depth restorations allowed all the everything related to Lavazza’s history and coffee Piedmont, a UNESCO world heritage site (www. EDITOR’S buildings in the complex, the Royal Palace, the production. In order to access the museum’s residenzereali.it). The park sometimes hosts events Museo Egizio TIP Musei Reali Armoury, the Royal Library, the Archaeological numerous interactive sections, visitors are provided such as ‘Terra Madre-Salone del Gusto’ (Mother Museum, the Savoy Gallery, Palazzo Chiablese A Savoy residence until 1865, Turin’s Royal with a Lavazza espresso cup at the entrance. This Earth Tasting Festival www.salonedelgusto.com and, lastly, the Royal Gardens to be connected. Museums are one of the largest and most iconic object is designed to activate the installations or the ‘Salone dell’Automobile’ (Turin Car Show) Visitors are now able enjoy a unique museum tour, diverse museum complexes in Europe. and unlock multimedia content across the museum. www.parcovalentino.com. Park: Corso Massimo comprising a 3km route spread over 30,000 sq.m. of The sheer size of the complex and collections Open Wed-Sun 10am-6pm (last admission 5.30pm). D’Azeglio / Valentino Castle: Viale Mattioli, 39 / exhibition space and 7 hectares of Royal Gardens. housed therein easily rival those of other Closed on 15 August. Full ticket price: 10 €. museo. Town and Medieval Castle: Viale Virgilio, 107 / The origins of the Royal Museums date back to 1563, major European royal residences. A unique lavazza.com. Via Bologna, 32A. T: 011 2179621. Botanical Gardens: Viale Mattioli, 25. Map G7 when Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy moved tour devoted to history, art and nature, Map H1 the capital from Chambéry to Turin. This marked Piazza San Carlo comprising a 3km route of exhibition spaces the beginning of a major urban transformation and Museo Nazionale del Cinema Also known as ‘the drawing room’ of the city, and seven hectares of gardens. the enrichment of the dynastic collections, which The National Museum of Cinema, housed in the piazza San Carlo was commissioned by Marie now include artifacts dating from the prehistoric Mole Antonelliana, is one of the world’s most Christine of France in true Parisian style. It is ARMERIA REALE - More than 5,000 era to the present time. Between the 17th and 18th important film museums. Featuring a unique, a rectangle of perfect proportions with an equestrian statue – the so-called ‘Caval’d Brons’ - objects dating from the Prehistoric era to the centuries, the appearance of the residence, with the vertical layout, this ‘temple of cinema’ spirals upwards through several exhibition levels, of Duke Emanuele Filiberto of Savoy at its centre 20th century, one of whose most important imposing Royal Palace at its centre, was expanded creating a spectacular display of its extraordinary and on its southern side, facing the Porta Nuova sections comprises an impressive collection and changed, thanks to the work of several of the era’s most illustrious architects. A Savoy Residence collections through an evocative, interactive Station, a twin pair of Baroque churches, San of 16th century arms and amour. until 1865, the Royal Museums are now owned by the itinerary. In addition to a vast film library Carlo and Santa Christina. The former was built in BIBLIOTECA REALE – One of the city’s Italian government. On-site amenities include a food containing more than 7,000 titles, the museum 1639 based on a project by architect Amedeo di most important cultural institutions, court in the former Regia Frutteria. offers collections dedicated to the archaeology of Castellamonte, while building on the latter began it houses over 200,000 books, antique www.museireali.beniculturali.it. Piazzetta Reale, 1. cinema, the ‘Aula del Tempio’ (Temple Room), the in 1619 (its façade was designed by Juvarra and maps, engravings and drawings, including Map F3 focal heart of the museum, with areas dedicated to dates back to 1715). Piazza San Carlo is flanked Leonardo da Vinci’s famous ‘Self Portrait’. the great genres of cinematic history. Don’t miss by seemingly endless elegant porticoes housing Museo della Sindone big-name fashion boutiques. The square is located CAPPELLA DELLA SINDONE – Recently the ‘Rampa’ (the Ramp) which, like a movie, unfolds Housed in the crypt of the church of SS. Sudario, this to reveal the dome, offering a breathtaking view in the middle of the partly pedestrianized arterial re-opened after a long and complex fascinating museum documents one of the most over the museum from above, the ‘Macchina del road of via Roma which, with its arcaded shops restoration, until the 1990s, the chapel, a studied objects in human history: the Sindone, the Cinema’ (the Movie Machine), an area dedicated to and cafés, connects the Station of Porta Nuova to Baroque masterpiece, housed the Sindone, famous ‘Holy Shroud’ a linen cloth which according the film industry and the ‘Galleria dei Manifesti’ piazza Castello. Piazza San Carlo is home to several now preserved in the Cathedral of Turin. to tradition Christ was wrapped in when deposed (the Poster Gallery). Open 9am-8pm, Sat 9am- of the city’s best-known cafés and pastry shops. GALLERIA SABAUDA - Spread over from the cross. The museum provides visitors with 11pm. Closed on Tues www.museocinema.it. Make sure to try the blends on offer at Caffè San Have you heard of Jean-François headquarters – the imposing Palazzo four levels of exhibition space, the gallery information about its provenance and history (from Mole Antonelliana. Via Montebello, 20. Carlo, the pastries of Caffè Torino Champollion? A French archaeologist delle Accademia delle Scienze, dating showcases approximately 500 masterpieces the second half of the 5th century when it became T: 011 8138560-011 8138561. or the chocolates and candies of Stratta. Map F4 and Egyptologist and the director of the back to the 17th century – the museum is the property of the House of Savoy), as well as by Italian, Dutch, Flemish and European Map H4 Egyptian sector of the Louvre in Paris, extremely modern in terms of both its layout the various theories and mysteries surrounding it. Pinacoteca Giovanni e Marella Agnelli artists displayed in chronological order from Other highlights include the objects and paintings OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni Archistar Renzo Piano designed what he referred he is the man who deciphered and immersive visitor experience. the 14th to 20th centuries. displayed during Public Ostensions (cyclical From a former rail repair workshop to a new hub to as a ‘treasure trove’, a captivating space located the mystery of hieroglyphics Remodelled by Oscar-winning set on the rooftop of Turin’s Lingotto building, formerly GIARDINI REALI - Extending over showings of the Shroud). Open daily 9am-Noon, of contemporary culture and innovation. Opened through the Rosetta Stone designer Dante Ferretti in 2015, approximately seven hectares of land, in 2017, following a major renovation, this majestic, the headquarters of the first Fiat (now FCA) 3pm-7pm. Full ticket price: €6. www.sindone.it/ in 1822. It is also thanks to the exhibition space was doubled, and located in the centre of the city, these museo. Chiesa del SS. Sudario, via San Domenico, late 19th century industrial complex in the heart of automotive factory. This intimate gallery hosts a Champollion’s expertise following massive renovations, beautiful gardens testify to the city’s history 28. T: 011 4365832. Map E2 Turin has become a meeting place for contemporary permanent exhibition showcasing the personal collection of late Fiat head Giovanni Agnelli and and former opulent splendour. Due to culture. The venue hosts a rich program of that we owe the defining and is now spread over four Museo Egizio exhibitions, performances, concerts – both classical his wife Marella. Here you can admire a unique ongoing renovations, today only a portion of statement: “The road to levels, three above ground and Turin’s Egyptian Museum is the oldest Egyptian and electronic – as well as events dedicated to collection of seven paintings by Matisse, a 1913 Memphis and Thebes one below ground, organized the garden are open for public viewing. museum in the world and the second in terms of theatre, dance and the performing arts. Other painting by Balla dedicated to the theme of speed, MUSEO DI ANTICHITÀ - The most the value and quality of its treasures outside of initiatives include workshops, start-ups and as well as masterpieces by Severini, Modigliani passes through Turin.” in chronological order. important archaeological finds unearthed Cairo. It was founded in 1824, when king Carlo presentations. Open Thurs-Sun 11am-7pm; Fri 11am- and Tiepolo. The collection also includes works When mentioning Here you’ll find mummies, in the city and throughout Piedmont are Felice of Savoy purchased the collection from art 8pm. www.ogrtorino.it. Corso Castelfidardo, 22. by Canaletto, Bellotto, Picasso, Renoir, Manet and Turin, he was referring tombs, papyrus sheets and expert Bernardino Drovetti. It is housed inside the Cano. Open Tues-Sun 10am-7pm (last entrance housed in the new underground space lying T: 011 4365832. Map G4 to its unique and everything related to ancient adjacent to the ruins of the Roman Theatre. historic Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Scienze, built 6.15pm). Closed on Monday and on 24 and 25 Parco del Valentino extraordinary Egypt (included embalmed PALAZZO REALE - Majestic staircases, in the 17th century by architect Guarino Guarini. In December. Open 10am-3pm on 31 December and 2006, during Turin’s Winter Olympics, the museum Located on the banks of the River Po, this is the 3pm-7pm on 1 January. Full ticket price (Permanent Egyptian Museum, animals) from the Paleolithic lavishly decorated rooms, carved ceilings, was re-modelled by Oscar-winning set designer city’s largest and most popular park. Spread over Collection + Temporary Exhibition): €10. www. the world’s first to the Coptic era. If you’re so stuccoes, delicately gilded furniture and a surface area of 550,000 sq.m, the park’s interior Dante Ferretti. The exhibition space is spread over pinacoteca-agnelli.it. Entrance: Lingotto ‘8 Gallery’. Egyptian museum overwhelmed that you don’t frescoes. An impressive feat of significant five floors and houses more than 37,000 artifacts houses numerous treasures including the Castello Via Nizza, 230/103. T: 011 0062713. founded in 1824, the artistic and architectural value, and the ranging from the Paleolithic to the Coptic era. The del Valentino, a UNESCO world heritage site, Off Map know where to begin your official residence of the Savoy family until archaeologist and Egyptologist Jean-François now home to the Politecnico di Torino’s faculty second in terms of the tour, get an audio guide. It’s free Teatro Regio 1865, the Royal Palace was expanded and Champollion once said: ‘the road to Memphis and of architecture; the Medieval Village and Castle, value and number of and allows you to choose and faithful 19th century reconstructions based on Commissioned by Vittorio Amedeo II and changed thanks to the work of several of Thebes passes through Turin’. Make sure to arm artifacts (around 40,000) personalize your itinerary to suit the model of Piedmont and Valdostano castles, designed by Filippo Juvarra, the Teatro Regio was Turin’s most illustrious architects and artists yourself with an audio guide: it’s free and enables and the Botanical Gardens, established in 1729 inaugurated in 1740. Destroyed by a fire in 1936, outside of Cairo, and individual requirements. A tip? between the 18th and 19th centuries. you to tailor the itinerary of your visit according to your requirements. Open Tues-Sun 9am-6.30pm, for educational purposes and open to the public and rebuilt in 1973 by Turinese architect Carlo the eighth most widely The Restoration Area on the first PALAZZO CHIABLESE - The rooms Mon 9am-2pm. Full ticket price: €15. since 1995. Tactile tours of the facility for blind Mollino, the only part of the original building visited museum in Italy. floor that allows visitors to watch on the ground floor of Palazzo Chiablese, that still remains is its façade, now a UNESCO www.museoegizio.it. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. or partially sighted visitors are also available. The British newspaper animal mummies being restored. an 18th century building that, over the Starting from Ponte Umberto I, you can walk or world heritage site. Its unusual gated access from T: 011 4406903. Map F4 “The Times” listed it as one centuries, was used as a residence for cycle along the river, or stroll along the park’s Piazza Castello, a ‘bronze gate’ named Odissea members of the Savoy family, house Museo Lavazza paths. The park is always open, but the Castello Musicale (Musical Odyssey) is a work by famous of the 50 best museums >> Museo Egizio the temporary exhibitions of the Royal Lavazza is one of the most famous and oldest brands del Valentino is not open to the public. The artist-sculptor Umberto Mastroianni. The Regio on the planet. Via Accademia delle Scienze, 6. of Italian coffee. During its 120 years in the industry, is one of the most important Italian theatres on Museums. Botanical Gardens can be visited from mid-April Despite its longstanding T: 011 4406903. Map F4 it has marked the history of Italy’s coffee culture with to mid-October. Together with the Reggia di the European scene, and offers an action-packed history and historic www.museoegizio.it advertisements and celebrities that have become an Venaria, Villa della Regina, Castello di Moncalieri, program of opera, ballet, symphony concerts and integral part of its public image. The museum uses a Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi and Castello other cultural activities. www.teatroregio.torino.it. circular route to focus on its creative collaborations di Rivoli, the Castello del Valentino is a part of Piazza Castello, 215. T: 011 88151. Map F3/G3

48 WHERE TURIN I JULY 2021 www.whereitalia.com 49 ESSENTIALS FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHEREITALIA.COM/TURIN Emergency EUROPEAN EMERGENCY NUMBER: 112 112 is the unique European Emergency Number created to provide all European citizens with a single number: Ambulance, Firefighters, Police. Caselle If the caller does not know where he or she Airport is, the operator will identify where the person making the call is physically located and will pass Malpensa this information to the emergency services. Airport OPEN PHARMACIES Farmacia Nizza (Via Nizza, 65. MM Nizza. T: 011 66992599). Open Mon-Sat 3pm-1pm, Sun 7:30pm-9am Farmacia Piazza Massaua (Piazza Massaua, 1/D. MM Massaua. T: 011 7793308). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 42 (Via XX Settembre, 5. T: 011 543287). Open daily 24/24 Farmacia Comunale 25 (Porta Nuova Station. T: 011 542825). Open daily 7am-7.30pm. www.farmaciediturno.org

PASSPORTS Questura Centrale di Torino. Corso Vinzaglio, 10. T: 011 55881. www.questure.poliziadistato.it/ torino Taxi In Italy taxis cannot be flagged down as they pass you along the street; they are stationed at special taxi parking stands in most of the major squares in any city or town and at the airport and can be requested by phone. Main taxi parking Via Nizza (Porta Nuova Station), Corso Bolzano (Porta Susa Station), Piazza Castello, Piazza CLN TAXI TORINO T: 011 5737 or 5730 -

FABIO MANCINO PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM FABIO www.taxitorino.it © www.wetaxi.it: app available for iOS and Android, it has more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers. Taxi fares Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of €34 on the Turin Caselle Airport section starting Turin, the city crossed by the river from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra The first capital of Italy, is a ‘drawing room city’ of elegant porticoes surrounded by green hills and, further fee for night or holiday travel). If the amount on the taximeter is less than €34 afield, by majestic mountains. This is Turin, a city renowned for its history, culture and natural beauties. or €39 you’ll pay the amount of the taximeter. To calculate the approximate fare of your taxi ride: www.wetaxi.it/taxitorino urin was a Roman colony, the first and its elegant squares have given Turin the system, extends for 13.2km and only includes capital of Italy and an industrial city. nickname of a ‘drawing room’ city. one line that connects the commune of Getting around Turin ZTL informations – Visitors traveling with their Special Tours own car and staying in a hotel in the central From its origins to the present time, With the exception of a few streets in the Collegno to the Torino Porta Nuova railway GTT – Gruppo Torinese Trasporti/Local Public CITYSIGHTSEEING TORINO HOP ON-HOP OFF T Transport Company - www.gtt.to.it area can enter the ZTL for the day of arrival Turin has had several different incarnations, centre, which are off-limits to traffic (including station (the city’s main railway hub) and the Hallmark red double-decker bus offering Infoline Mon-Sat 6.30am-7.30pm. Green Line T: 800 and departure only, filling out a form at the each of which has left profound traces in its the Quadrilatero Romano and its shopping Torino Porta Susa station, before reaching hotel reception (ask your concierge for more 3 routes: 019152; from mobile (Toll Number): T: 011 0672000. Line A to explore the city center and the hill; architecture and urban layout. streets), the remainder of the city is open the Lingotto Fiere terminus. information). GTT Info Point and ticket - Railway Station Torino overlooking the Po with the Valentino Park, the Extending over a surface area of less than to traffic and most landmark attractions are Turin boasts an enviable geographic position. In the same way it is possible to reach paid Porta Nuova, in front of the track 20. Mon-Fri public parking areas within the ZTL by filling in village and the medieval fortress; 150 square kilometers, crossed by the Po, the easily accessible by car. However, beware of It is surrounded by green hills that stand 7.15am-7pm. Sat, Sun and holidays 9am-5pm. the same parking lot with the request for transit Line B to access various sites including the longest river in Italy, Turin is characterized by access regulation ‘ZTL Centrale’, which is active 715 metres above sea level, and which, in Lost and Found on GTT vehicles: The driver authorization no later than 11am. Automobile Museum, the Lingotto, the a checkerboard-like grid of streets that makes Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30am and prohibits the addition to their natural beauty, also offer and GTT personnel are not allowed to return Pinacoteca Agnelli, Eataly, the Olympic sites and objects found on the vehicles directly. Lost Tourist Information the OGR-Officine Grandi Riparazioni; getting your bearings easy. circulation of private vehicles and parking numerous cultural and historical attractions. articles found on GTT vehicles are taken to the TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Line C for the Allianz Stadium, the Reggia di One of the city’s most distinctive architectural in the centre of the city. This restriction does They can be reached in just a few minutes Lost and Found of the City of Turin, where they Piazza Carlo Felice, in front of the Porta Nuova Venaria and the La Mandria Castle. Meeting features is its 18km of porticoes – mostly not, however, apply to taxis or chauffer driven by public transport, the Sassi-Superga tram can be collected after 48 hours from the time Station. T: 011 535181 Open daily 9am-1pm point: at any bus stop. Assistance at Ticket Point located in the city centre – which house shops hired cars. As an alternative, you can use public or car. Turin is also an ideal base to reach of loss. The lost and found office is in Via Meucci and 2pm-6pm. City Sightseeing Torino (Piazza Castello corner of 4. Mon, Wed, Thurs, 9am-12am. T: 011 4430753. Via Po). 8 language commentary. and cafes. Its porticoes, originally designed to transport to get around the city. These include several of Europe’s most renowned ski resorts. Purchase your ticket before you get on the bus TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE – Ticket valid 24h (48h if you combine 3 lines). offer shade in the summer and shelter from the buses, trams and the subway (metropolitana). It is therefore not surprising that the city is or the tram. Ordinary ticket (€1.70) valid for 100 Piazza Castello corner of Via Garibaldi. Combo tickets for top Turin attractions are also rain, snow, and sometimes the wind in winter, The ‘metropolitana’, a fully automated subway described as the ‘Capital of the Alps’. minutes on buses, trams or metro. T: 011 535181. Open daily 9am-6pm. available. www.city-sightseeing.it/en/turin

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VIAGIOVANNI BAT TISTAGANDINO STRAD A DE Allianz Stadium LLA CO VI NT INE V I A R E I S S R O M O L I SS A A AL CORSO VERCELLI

I T R E B I N U C O I R O T T I V A I V FONSO VI A REFRA ANZ OL A I V STRADA ALTESSANO V I A V E R O N E S E V I A G V IA M A I U S E P P E VIA PAOLO DELLA CELLA BADINI CONFALONIERI M A S S A R I V I A G I U S E P NCORE VIA VENARIA P E M A S S A R I S A C ANIS P E C IO O’ V I A G I U S U S E P P E D E P P E M GI A S S A R I VIA ETTORE STAMPINI

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A I S E S O G R O B A I V VIA DOMODOSSOLA VIA VIA Il Fungo di Corso Telesio VIA LIVORNO PIE TRO COSSA PEROTTI V IA S A S S A R I VIA ROMAGNANO V I A B I E L L A VIA OMEGNA VIA RAVENNA CORSO REGIO PARCO VIA NICOMEDE BIANCHI PIAZZA VIA BARI V I A C I R I E ' VIA ARONA VIA LUIGI CIBRARIO Giardino C O RNSO O V A RA TOMMASO Ospedale Marino VIA CARDEZZA VIA CASERTA Ferraro VIA NICOMEDE BIANCHI Maria Vittoria VIA BOLOGNA STRADA ANTICA DI COLLEGNO Parrocchia CAMPANELLA Chiesa VIA BRINDI San Pietro in Vincoli C O R S O B R E S C IA CORSO PALERMO VIA LUIGI GALVANI

VIA VITTORIOANDREIS VIA PIETRO COSSA S. Ermenegildo VIA SALBERTRAND S. Giovanna D'Arco STRADA A PIAZZA Re e Martire VIA NICOMEDE BIANCHI CAMPIDOGLIO SI VIA BARCELLONA VIA VAGNONE NTICA BORGOMANERO VIA ORTA DI COLL VIA NICOLA FABRIZI VIA MARIA AUSILIATRICE VIA FRANCECO CIGNA VIA CARLO CAPELLI VIA MUSINE’ EGNO LARGO VIA BALME VIA CORIO VIA SALERNO LARGO

O R A Z Z A G O F A I V Parrocchia VIA PRINCIPESSA CLOTILDE NICOLA SAN DONATO Basilica di Maria Ausiliatrice VIA NICOLA FABRIZI BRESCIA I A CARLO PEDROTTI FABRIZI S. Alfonso Maria V VIA CARLO BOSSI VIA SAN DONATO AURORA Ex Scalo Vanchiglia Dè Liguori A VIA DURANDI B C D E F G H CORSO TELESIO VIA LE CHIUSE I L

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VIA MILLEFONTI V I A G E N O V A SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Lingotto Fiere CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIAVIA VENTIMIGLIA MILLEFONTI

CORSO CORSICA SOTTOPASSAGGIO LINGOTTO Fiat Chrysler Automobiles Giardino C O R S O L U IG I S E T T E M B R IN I CORSO CADUTI SUL LAVORO STRADA TORINO Giuseppe Levi Stazione Torino Lingotto Ex Area Fiat Avio Lubricanti CORSO MONCALIERI VIA PASSO BUOLE NIZZA C O R S O T R A IA N O CORSO GIOVANNI AGNELLI VIA PIO VII

MILLEFONTI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA Parco Giuseppe Di Vittorio

VIA PASSO BUOLE Torre Regione Piemonte

VIA SOMMARIVA Palavela

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

VIA NIZZA VIA PASSO BUOLE I R E I L A C N O M O S R O C

Parrocchia Assunzione VIA O. VIGLIANI di Maria Vergine Giardino Corpo VIA VINOVO Italiano di Liberazione

C O R S O T R A IA N O V I A G E N O V A

VIA O. VIGLIANI

VIA VENTIMIGLIA

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T MIRAFIORI SUD CORSO BENEDETTO CROCE Palazzo del Lavoro VIA PIO VII CORSO PIERO MARONCELLI

VIA O. VIGLIANI CORSO UNITÀ D'ITALIA

V I A O N O R A T O V I G L I A N I PIAZZA CORSO FRAT. ROSSELLI

BENGASI

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

M O T R A E L E U N A M E A I V P O

Parco Colonnetti S TRA D TONA OR I

E T S E I R T O S R O C

VIA SESTRIERE S A N G O N E

CORSO UNIONE SOVIETICA

S A N G O N E BORGARETTO

5 5 A O N I R O T I D D U S E L A I Z N E G N A T

VIALE TORINO NICHELINO VIA TORINO

C O R S O T R EI S T E PO

VIA BOGINO MONCALIERI

VIA TORINO

VIALE TORINO STUPINIGI

Palazzina di Caccia di Stupinigi Parrocchia di Stupinigi

500 m

Parco Naturale di Stupinigi Church of San Lorenzo

ESSENTIALS

Fast train network from Turin Tickets can be purchased on board (only cash PORTA NUOVA & PORTA SUSA STATIONS payments allowed) or at several stores (a list is available on the website). Turin offers fast-track access to major cities across Where Turin Magazine One-way ticket: €6,50 - round trip ticket: €12.

Italy thanks to its high-speed trains: • Milan: [ ONLY AT PREMIERE HOTELS ] CLAUDIO DIVIZIA/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Sadem also provides a shuttle service from Turin © 1 hour • Bologna: 2 hours 20 min • Florence: to Milan Malpensa airport. 2 hours 55 min • Venice: 3 hours 35 min • Rome: 4 hours 30 min • Naples: 5 hours 30 min. WHERE TIP With a Torino+Piemonte Card, you’ll The most important railway station in Turin is only pay €5 for your ticket. Torino Porta Nuova, in the central Corso Vittorio Taxi Torino (more than 1400 licensed taxi drivers) Emanuele II, 58; regional, interregional, high- T: 011 5737 or 5730 - www.taxitorino.it - speed and international trains arrive at and www.wetaxi. depart from there. Taxi Torino doesn’t have a fixed taxi fares to the Trains between Torino Porta Nuova and Milan Caselle Airport; it provides a maximum fare of stop at the Torino Porta Susa station, including €34 on the Turin-Caselle Airport section starting TGV services between Paris and Milan and other from the city ZTL, €39 starting from Torino services using the Turin–Milan high-speed line. Lingotto (plus baggage supplements and extra TRENITALIA Railway Company - Info T: 892021. fee for night or holiday travel). www.trenitalia.com. MILANO MALPENSA (MXP) -. ITALO - Info T: 060708. Italo Assistance T: 892020. The airport, at the East of Turin (135 km from the www.italotreno.it. city centre), is reachable in 1 hour 30 minutes by Airports car from Turin thanks to the A4 motorway. Information desk T: 02 232323. TORINO CASELLE “SANDRO PERTINI” (TRN) - www.milanomalpensa-airport.com (16 km from the centre of Turin). The airport, at the North of Turin, is easily reachable in 25 • Connections to the airport Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta

minutes by car thanks to the Turin-Caselle ROSSHELEN / SHUTTERSTOCK.COM motorway junction. The junction is connected Nuova Station provides a shuttle service also

directly to the Tangenziale Nord and to the from Turin to Milano Malpensa airport. PH © Turin-Milan, Turin-Aosta and Turin-Bardonecchia www.aeroportoditorino.it 5 STARS Allegroitalia Golden Palace – Via dell’Arcivescovado, 18 • motorways. Information desk T: 011 5676361-2. CUNEO LEVALDIGI (CUF) - (65 km from the centre www.aeroportoditorino.it of Turin). Information T: 0172 741500 – 558. Map E4-5 Grand Hotel Sitea – Via Carlo Alberto, 35 • Map F5 • Connections to the airport www.aeroporto.cuneo.it Principi di Piemonte | UNA Esperienze – Via P. Gobetti, 15 Sadem Shuttle service (www.sadem.it) from Porta • Connections to the airport • Map F5 Nuova Station (on the corner between Corso BMC Bus Shuttle service (www.bmcbus.it) available in 4 STARS Vittorio Emanuele II and Via Sacchi). Every 15-30 connection from Turin with departure and arrival Ac Hotel Torino by Marriott – Via Bisalta, 11 • Off Map min, travel time approx. 45’ (4.45am-11.30pm of flights. €8 each way, we recommend buy Art Hotel Boston Torino – Via A. Massena, 70 • Off Map Mon-Sat; 5.30am-11pm Sun and holidays). ticket online. www.aeroportocuneo.it Art Hotel Olympic – Via Verolengo, 19 • Off Map Best Western Crystal Palace Hotel – Via Nizza, 11 • Map E6 Best Western Hotel Luxor – Corso Stati Uniti, 7 • Map D6 Best Western Plus Executive Hotel and Suites – Via Nizza, 28 TORINO + PIEMONTE CARD • Off Map Best Western Plus Hotel Genova – Via P. Sacchi, 14/B • Map E6 Concord – Via G.L. Lagrange, 47 • Map F6 Dinasty Suites – Piazza Carlo Felice, 7 • Map E5 Diplomatic – Via Cernaia, 42 • Map C3 Double Tree by Hilton Turin Lingotto – Via Nizza, 230 • Off Map Duparc Contemporary Suites – Corso Massimo d’Azeglio, 21 • Off Map Holiday Inn Turin City Centre – Via Assietta, 3 • Map D6 Hotel dei Pittori – Corso Regina Margherita, 57 • Map I3 Hotel Principe di Torino – Corso Moncalieri, 85 • Off Map Lancaster Torino – Corso Filippo Turati, 8 • Off Map J Hotel – Via Traves, 40 • Off Map Nh Collection Torino Piazza Carlina – Piazza Carlo Emanuele II, 15 • Map G5 Nh Torino Centro – Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 104 • Map B4 Nh Torino Lingotto Congress – Via Nizza, 262 • Off Map Nh Torino Santo Stefano – Via Porta Palatina, 19 • Map F2-3

RUSSKYMAVERICK/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM Novotel Torino Corso Giulio Cesare – Corso Giulio Cesare, © 338/34 • Off Map This card can be purchased online or at Turin’s Tourist Offices. With this pass you get Pacific Hotel Fortino – Strada del Fortino, 36 • Off Map Starhotels Majestic – Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, 54 • Map E6 free entry to Turin’s most important museums and exhibitions, castles, fortresses and The Originals Hotel Turin Royal – Corso Regina Margherita, the Royal Residences of Turin and Piedmont for 1*, 2, 3 or 5 consecutive days. It also 249 • Off Map offers reduced-price tickets to several other cultural sites in Piedmont, discounts on TownHouse 70 – Via XX Settembre, 70 • Map F3 Turin’s main tourist services, plus other benefits. Turin Palace Hotel – Via P. Sacchi, 8 • Map E6 For more information www.turismotorino.org Victoria Torino – Via N. Costa, 4 • Map F5 Villa Savoia – Corso Sicilia, 1, angolo Corso Moncalieri • Off Map *The one-day pass is valid for a maximum of three entries to the Turin museum circuit.

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