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University of Ibadan Library UNIVERSITY OF IBADAN LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF IBADAN LIBRARY An Exhibition ot the Museum fur Votkerkunde Wien-Kunsthistorisches Museum and the National Commission for Museums and Monuments. Nigeria With the Support of the Austrian Embroidery Industry Edited bv Barbara Plankenstelner and Nath Mayo Adediran A History of Trade, Creativity and Fashion in Nigeria Museum fur Votkerkunde Wien 22 October 2010 to U February 2011 National Museum Lagos 2! March to 17 June 2011 National Museum IbadanUNIVERSITY OF IBADAN LIBRARY 27 July to 30 October 2011 Catalogue tenders Cover Illustration; Illustration 6 on pages Editorial Coordination; HSchst, Oswald Brunner Chief (Mrs) Modupe 16 and 17: Barbara bankersteiner Lagos, Centre for Black and A. Dbebe, 1979. Lady's suit, detail. Julia Bimer African Arts and Civilization C clo ured BW photogi aph Nigeria, c. 1975 ICBAAC), Nigeria from the invitation card for Museum fur Volkni kunde Lagos. National Museum, Photo Editing; her titletaking ceremony. Wien, inv. No. 187 358 a, b National Commission for © Oswald Brunner Barbara Rankensteiner Museums and Monuments Julia Bimer Illustration 251 on pages Nigeria Marianne He-rgovich Back-cover Illustration; 23* and 235: London, British Museum Sequin embroidery Net embroidery textile. Lustenau. Oskar Hammerte HDH HoferHecht Hammerle & Sehtbach ■ Editing; company Embroideries. Lustenau. company. Lustenau Elisabeth Herrmann Lustenau, HK6 Embroideries 2010 Julene Knox Lustenau. R. Riedesser Allovcr embroidery on cotton Object Photographs, Vienna, Hem? Hundertpfund voile. Albert Bosch company. © KHM mit MVK urid OTM Translations: Vienna, Birgit Mutter Lustenau, 2010 Photographic Supervision Elizabeth Mortimer Vienna, Museum fur Stefan Zcister Marian Pink Volkerkunde Photos; Andrew Smith Illustration 5 on page 2: Vienna, dsterreichisches J D. Qkhai Qjeikere, Alexander Rnsoh Joshua Stein Museum tilr Votkskunde Adegorpye's wedding. Picture Editing Vienna, Giinter A. Richter Lagos, 1964 Thomas Ritter Publisher Vienna, Theater in der Bnoeck Publishers, Rortan Payer josefstadl Illustrat or: 2 on pages Rudy Vercruysse, Ghent Thomas Ritter Vienna. Volkstheater B and 9- Flcrisn Payer Graphic Design Adolphus Opara. Wedding of Sands Antic Thomas Soete, Ghent Tola Olateru Olagbegi and Michael Eder Begun Akerete, detail. From Thomas Raggam Prepress; the series; tk o h r Shew, 2009. Grafisch Sure Lerevre, The ed-tors nave made every Kor.njk Illustration 3 on page 10. effort to locate the holders of Lacy's suit made of imported rights. Should this in any case .Printing; in the embroidery textile, detail not have been achieved, European Union Nigeria, mid-1970s please contact the editors. Museum fur Vdlkerkunde Wien. Irv Nc. 138.510 a, b ISBN 978-94-6U1 -000-3 Legal Deposit: D/20l0/0012/31 Illustration 4 on page 12: Batihan Riga gown, detail All rights reserved. Hausa. acquired in Short Title: Senegal c. 1880 Coll. Oskat Lena, Barbara Plankensteiner and Nath Mayo Adediren (eris.l Museum fur Vdlkerkunde African Lane Wien, Inv. No. 12.807 A H.story of Trade. Creativity and Fashion in Nigeria illustration 5 on page Id. Exhibition Catalogue Oswald Brunner with h s business partners Museum fur Volkarkunde Wien and the National Mr. (Hanrewajo and Commission for Museums ■Mr. Fatukasi in aso ebi. Nigeria, 1971. and Monuments Nigeria <D Oswald Brunner Vienna 2010 © S wreck Publishers, , Ghent/Kortriik. 2010UNIVERSITY OF IBADAN LIBRARY © Kunsthislorisches Museum mil MVK und OTM. 2010 Overall Exhibition Exhibition in Vienna Exhibition in Logos and Ibadan Concept and Curator: ■ lead Curator and Direction: Scientific Direct.cn Barbara Plankensteiner Nath Mayi Aden nr. Barbara Ptankersieiriar and Math Mayo Adedran Assistant. Curator Nation*. Julia Sinter Petition V/,j,,,.. e(,j Museum Lagciv RonkeAshaye Christian H«W Exhibition Management: Christian Hbizt Curator National Project Coordinatiori: Museum Ibadan Marianne Hergovidv ireti Kota-George Exhibition Design. Assistants: Dhr stian Stum linger Louisa Onuoha Pamota Otute Exhibition Graphics: Michaeia Nou Exhibition Management Edith Ekunku Conservation: Elisabeth Tarawieh Exhibition Design: Barbara Pdmghaus-Matuelia Nath Mayo Atietjiran Roswtha ?obi ■William Oise- Ayeni F wiari Rainer Exhibition Graphics: Exhibition Construe! ic«■,: Ytnka Qtajubu Artex, Vienna Canice Ikashi Fefbi Oyeyipc Carpentry- Workshop Museum fur Conservation: ViKkerkurde-KHM Simon Momoh Florence Emmetts Communication and Marketing: Exhibition Construction; Nina Auirder-Sustoriuty Co.ms Onuosa Ruth Strcndt i dr I Oxer Sarah Aistteitnar Akrib yo Olutayo Angelika Krpnreif Chris Onuakpor Museum I ducat cr Communication Christine Kaofmann and Marketing: Vickie K Aqtti Louisa Onuoha Museum Education: Victoria Okotaovn! UNIVERSITY OF IBADAN LIBRARY Acknowledgements Theresa Abensperg-Tratm, Adebimpe Adebarnbo, Silifat 0. Adekoya, LA. Adeniyi-Usman, Adenike R. Adewuyi. O'Yemi Afolabk Ndtdi Aimienwauu, Abiola 0. Atoba, Olubunmi Amatotsera-Keke. Bimbo Atta, Kunle Bakare, Toyin Bakare. Andrea Bauer, Burgl Baustadter, Matthias Beitl, Wolfgang Bender, Brigitte and Werner Berlinger, Josef Blaser, Margret and Hanno Bosch, Raimund Bosch. Roy Bosch, Rudy Bosch, Traude Bosch, Oswald A. Brunner, Johanna Cnetnik. Christine Demuth, Erelu Abiola Docemo, Nnenna Dosurnu, Elisabeth Egger, Tam Fiofori, Arno Rtz, Gerti furrer, Bernhard Gardi, Lara George, Mekwuye Godwin. Tatiana Grassmayr, Ingeborg Grau, Kart Hagspiet, Lot bar Hammerle, Andre Herrenschmidt, Andrea Holer, Ivo Hofer, Martin Hater, Shanay A. Hubmann. Julie Hudson, Hein;; Hundertpfund, Osaro Idah, Kurt Isete, Hakeem A. Jimo, Martha Jungwirth, Alhaja Kareem, Regina Karner, Alex Kohler, Wiltried Kbnig, Wolfgang Kunze, Funmi Ladele. Monika Maislmger, Lucia Mennel, Mary Metzier. Dele Momodu, Gerhard Muller, Sigmund Nemeti, David Noden. Oiuyem Ogundele. Amaize Ojeikere. Data Okoroduciu, Betty Okuboyejo, Modupe I. Olukoya, Adolphus Opara, Temitenjo M, Owolana, Sascha Reichstein, Peter Repo. Eva Richter, Gunter A. Richter. Markus Riedmann. Ado Rieger, Christo* Ritter, Helmut Ritter, Dietmar Schadner, Margot Schindler, Stefan SchoU, Shari Mobo aji Shitu. Anita Squinobal, AndreasStaudacher, Axel Steinmann, Inge Stolterfoht. Elisabeth Stdtzler, Angela Vdtker, Herbert and Karin Wolf!, Maneke and Albrecht Zimburg. We wish to thank the following companies for their gifts of textiles forth© exhibition: Albert Bosch Stickereien, Lustenau; Ernst Bosch & Co., Lustenau; Getzner Textit A6, Btudenz; Oskar Hammerte,' Lustenau; Hammerle & Sehlbach, Lustenau; HOH HolerHecht Stickereien, Lustenau; HKG Embroideries, Lustenau: K. Riedesser, Lustenau; Markus Riedmann. Lustenau; Wilhelm Scheffknecht, Lustenau; Supreme Lace, Ikeja, Lagos. We wish lo thank the following companies for their sponsorship of the fashion project: Ernst Bosch & Co., Lustenau; Gachter Karl. Lustenau; Oskar Hammerle, Lustenau; HKG Embroideries, Lustenau; Intertextil Martha Jungwirth. Lustenau; Daniel Metzters Erben. Sat'.eins; K. Riedesser, Lustenau: Markus Riedmann, Lustenau; Wilhelm Scheffknecht. Lustenau. UNIVERSITY OF IBADAN LIBRARY 11 Sabine Haag 153 Louisa Onuoha Preface Nigerian Lace Merchants. Stories and Experiences 13 Yusuf Abdallah Usman Preface 167 Peju Layiwola The Art of Dressing Welt. Lace Culture 15 Christian Feest and Fashion Icons in Nigeria Foreword 181 Sola Olorunyomi Lace Fashion as Heteroglossia in the ESSAYS Nigerian Yoruba Cultural Imaginary 19 Barbara Piankensteiner 195 Lace Fashion designed by Ituen Basi, and Nath Mayo Adediran Vivid Imagination, Frank Osodi and African Lace, The Project Tiffany Amber 23 Barbara Piankensteiner 207 Kunle Bakare African Lace. A Recent Chapter Celebrity Reporting. in Nigerian Fashion History A Participant's Chronicle 37 Nath Mayo Adediran 221 Party Culture in Nigeria Lace in Nigerian Fashion and Interview with Dele Momodu Popular Culture. An Introduction 233 Adolphus Opara. Eko for Show 49 Okhai Ojeikere. Portraits 67 Barbara Piankensteiner A P P E N D IX Silesian Linens, English Wootens, Colourful Wax Prints. 236 Bibliography A Short History of the European 243 Maps Textile Trade with West Africa 248 Chronology 252 Authors 71 Elisha P, Renne 253 Glossary of Textiles and Figured, Textured, and Empty Spaces. their Designations An Aesthetics of Textiles and Dress in Nigeria 91 Lucia Mennel Austrian Embroideries. History, Actors, and Economic Networks 107 Daily Production UNIVERSITYAn Art Project by Sascha Reichstein OF IBADAN LIBRARY 113 Barbara Piankensteiner African Lace. Material of a Trans­ continental History of Relations UNIVERSITY OF IBADAN LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF IBADAN LIBRARY UNIVERSITY OF IBADAN LIBRARY Preface Many Austrians might already have had an opportunity to admire the brightly coloured or snow-white lavish lace dresses worn by people of Nigerian descent. They might have noticed them in the media, « or caught a glimpse of Africans on their way to church or to a festive occasion. Only a few however know A ' that the textiles of which these fascinating garments are created, are in fact industrial embroideries that are manufactured in Vorarlberg in Western Austria since the 1960s specifically for the Nigerian market. To me personally, the elegant appearance of African women is quite familiar from my youth: not because I ever travelled to Africa, but because Nigerian businesswomen are a frequent sight on the streets of certain towns in Vorartberg. They visit the area regularly to order new collections and cultivate contacts with embroidery companies in Lustenau and surroundings. ! am very pleased that we have been
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