FO REWORD

CONFESS to a h ope that these pages will tempt readers to lo ok up a former ii ” b o ok Haw a . of mine, Jack London and t I o f u O herwise , think , something my p rpose w orld may be lost, which is to acquaint the more fully with the enchantment o f southern skies and seas that lie so accessible to the western coast o f the United States o f America . To those who cannot see their way to the I more extended travel below the equator, recommend the Hawaiian Islands , that remark able land with its remarkable people , and its most remarkable development in the brief space of a century . of I Most important all , have included ’ Jack London s last work on his beloved not islands , three articles that have until now

- s n seen book cover , entitled My Hawaiia ” Aloha . These articles appeared shortly 1 9 1 6 The Cosmo olitan before his death in , in p a M gazine .

ON O E G L D N , N LAND ,

Februar 1 922. y,

C O NT ENTS

FO REW O RD MY HAWAIIAN ALO HA b y J ACK LO ND O N

CHAPTER ’ - I R To J K S O V . . MY ETURN AC L E LAND

O O G— RO C O - O F - A MS II . M T RIN THE YAL AT R — — PINEAPPLE GRO W IN G THE RE FUGE O F B IRD S

A M O F D S G —O O O E KHI B I III . CADE Y E I N UTD R — TIO NS DECADENCE O F NATI V E PEO PLE S — ’ KINGMAN S I SLAND

H S G O F H O I V . T E PA SIN PRINCE KU I — PRINCESS AB IGAIL KING LI HO LI HO THE KAHILI — V H - U O S E I . T E PAN PACIFIC NI N CIENTIFIC R SEARCH CO UNCIL CO MMERCIAL CO N FERENCE

V FO R O S I I . THE CURE LEPR Y

H O— —PAP E— V III . IL KEAAU z TIDAL WAV E S A V O LCANIC MARV EL — KALAPANA A CURE FO R HEADACHE FO LKLO RE

—B O ! I . MAUNA KEA AR HUNTIN G

I H V I S ! I . T E ALLEY LE

O CO S ! III . THE K NA A T

N O O O O—A ! IV . AP P CHURCH FESTIV AL

ON — O N O ! V . K A H NAU AU C LO NEL SAM ! Y F R W L VI . M A E E L LIST O F ILLUSTRATIO NS

DAUGHTERS O F THE PERISHING RACE Foo -! apiece

KING KALAKAUA AND RO B ERT LO UIS STEV ENSON 1 4

MRS . J K O O O N B H 20 MR . AND AC L ND N THE EAC AN OLD HAWAIIAN 30 THE RUIN O F HALEAKALA 4 5 THE INTERIO R O F HALEAKALA 50 THE DITCH TRAIL 65 THE ORIGINAL STATUE O F KAMAHAME HA I 75 PA - U O R HAWAIIAN RIDING CO STUME 8 8 BAY OF H IS O F 1 00 ANA, LAND MAUI SURF- B OARDING 1 24 DIAMO ND HEAD 1 50 RI CE FI E LD S 1 70 A MO UNTAIN TRAIL 206 H F S I S OF 22 ANAPEPE ALL , LAND LANAI 5 I AO V L I S O F AL EY, LAND MAUI 240 MY HAWAIIAN ALO HA

By J A C K LO NDO N

PART ONE

NGE upon a time , only the other day , when j ovial King Kalakaua established

o f a record for the kings earth and time , there entered into his Polynesian brain as merry a scheme o f international intrigue as ever might have altered the destiny of races and places .

1 8 8 1 o f The time was the place the intrigue , the palace of the Mikado at Tokio . The record must not be omitted , for it was none other than that for the first time in the history

o f Of kings and the world a reigning sovereign ,

o wn in his royal person , put a girdle around

e th earth . The intrigue It was certainly as inter national as any international intrigue could be . Also , it was equally as dark , while it was precisely in alignment with the future con

flic tin f g courses of empires . Mani est destiny n was more than incidentally concerned . Whe 9 1 0 THE NEW HAWAII the manifest destinies o f two dynamic races move o n ancient and immemorial lines toward each other from east to west and west to east

l o f along the same paralle s latitude , there is

’ an inevitable point o n the earth s surface where they will collide . In this case , the races were the Anglo - Saxon (represented by the

Americans) , and the Mongolian (represented by the Japanese) . The place was Hawaii , the

I v o f o ely and lovable, beloved countless many ” as Hawaii Nei .

Kalakau a , despite his merriness , foresaw clearly , either that the United States would

or absorb Hawaii , that , allied by closest marital ties to the royal house o f the Rising w i Sun , Ha aii could be a brother kingdom n

. saw an empire That he clearly , the situation

d ei f to ay attests . Hawaii N is a territory o the United States . There are more Japanese resident in Hawaii at the present time than are

s re ident other nationalities , not even excepting the native Hawaiians .

The figures are eloquent . In round numbers ,

- five there are twenty thousand pure Hawaiians ,

- fiv e twenty thousand various Caucasians ,

- twenty three thousand Portuguese , twenty one thousand Chinese , fifteen thousand MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 1 1

of Filipinos , a sprinkling many other breeds ,

of an amazing complexity intermingled breeds , t and ninety thousand Japanese . And , mos amazingly eloquent o f all statistics are those of the race purity o f the Japanese mating .

1 9 1 4 - is In the year , the Registrar General authority for the statements that one American male and one Spanish male respectively married

o ne e Japanese females , that Japanese mal

- o r - married a Hapa Haole , Caucasian Hawaiian female, and that three Japanese males married pure Hawaiian females . When it comes to an innate antipathy towards mongrelization , the dominant national in Hawaii , the Japanese , proves himself more j ealously exclusive by far than any other national . Omitting the records o f all the other nationals which go to make up the amazing mongrelization of races in this

- of o f smelting pot the races , let the record

- pure blood Americans be cited . In the same

of 1 9 1 4 - year , the Registrar General reports that of American males wh o intermingled their

n eleveh breed and seed with alie races , married

- five pure Hawaiians , twenty married Cau

- casian Hawaiians , three married pure Chinese ,

- o ne four married Chinese Hawaiians , and

To su married a pure Japanese . m the sam e 1 2 THE NEW HAWAII thing up with a cross - bearing : in the same

1 9 1 4 Of e year , over eighteen hundred Japanes women who married , only two married outside their race ; o f over eight hundred pure Cau casian women who married , over two hundred intermingled their breed and seed with races

of alien to their own . Reduced to decimals , the females who went over the fence o f race

2 5 ur to secure fathers for their children , of p e Caucasian women were guilty ; 0 01 4 of — Japanese women were guilty in vulgar frac

”! o ne tion, out of four Caucasian women ; one

t o f ou one thousand Japanese women .

Kalakau a King , at the time he germinated

of his idea, was the royal guest the Mikado in a special palace which was all his to lodge in, l along with his suite . But Ka akaua was resolved upon an international intrigue which

sa was , to y the least, ethnologically ticklish ;

o f while his suite consisted two Americans , one,

i i 1 921 b Bi M Stat stics comp led in y the shop useum, of Hono u six i l lu, show that one out of every women of Caucasian b rth in the Territory of Hawaii marries a Hawaiian or part Hawaiian and other figures prove that a large perc entage of part- Hawaiian women - S marry either Hawaiians or part Hawaiians . till another large C c C fi proportion marries au asians or hinese . Further, the gures o c k e a se illustrate that the new st is b tter able to withst nd disea , in i r u and is, that sense, more v go o s than its Hawaiian ancestors, as

fic . It c r well as more proli is the creation of a new ra e, st ong, i and c i u - vir le, produ tive ; wh le the p re blo oded Hawaiians steadily c de rease in numbers . MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 1 3

Colonel C . H . Judd, his Chamberlain , the other , i . Ar Mr W lliam N . mstrong, his Attorney

o ne o f General . They represented the race manifest destinies , and he knew it would never do for them to know what he had up his

i . 1 8 8 1 k ngly sleeve So , on this day in , he gave

o ut o f them the royal slip , sneaked the palace

’ to the back way , and hied him the Mikado s palace .

All o f which , between kings , is a very outré thing to do . But what was mere etiquette — l Ka akaua . between kings reasoned Besides ,

Kalakau a was a main - travelled sovereign and a very cosmopolitan through contact with all sorts and conditions o f men at the feasting board under the ringing grass - thatched roof of i the royal canoe house at Honolulu , wh le the Mikado had never been o ff his tight little u island . Of co rse, the Mikado was surprised at this unannounced and entirely unc ere

nio s m o u afternoon call . But not for nothing was o f he the Son Heaven , equipped with all the perfection o f gentleness that belongs to a much longe r than a nine - hundred - years - old

To l name . his dying day Ka akau a never dreamed o f the faux pas he committed that day in 1 8 8 1 . 1 4 THE NEW HAWAI I

He went directly to the point , exposited the manifest destinies moving from east to west and west to east, and proposed no less

’ than that an imperial prince o f the Mikado s line should espouse the Princess Kaiulani o f

- Hawaii . He assured this delicate , hot h ouse c ulture of a man whose civilization was already a dim and distant achievement at the time

’ Kalakaua s forbears were on the perilous and s avage Polynesian canoe - drift over the Pacific ere ever they came to colonize Hawaii— this pallid palace flower of a monarch did he assure t hat the Princess Kaiulani was some princess . l k And in this Ka a aua made no mistake . She w as l sa of all that he cou d y her, and more . Not alone was sh e the most refined and peach - blow blossom o f a woman that Hawaii

o f had ever produced , to whom connoisseurs beauty and of spirit like Robert Louis Steven so n had bowed knee and head and presented

‘ with poems and pearls ; but sh e was ’ Kala

’ kana s o wn niece and heir to the throne o f

Hawaii . Thus , the Americans , moving west

o n ward would be compelled to stop the. far

S hore of the Pacific ; while Hawaii, taken ’ under Japan s wing, would become the easterly o utpost of Japan . K NGt KALAK I AUA AND ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON

MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 1 5

Kalakaua died without knowing how clearly he foresaw the trend o f events To - day the

Haw au United States possesses , which , in n tur , is populated by more Japanese than by any other nationality . Practically every second person in the island is a Japanese , and the

Japanese are breeding true to pure race lines , while all the others are cross - breeding to an extent that would be a scandal on any stock

Fortunately for the United States , the

. Ha Mikado reflected Because he reflected ,

to - waii day is not a naval base for Japan , and a menace to the United States . The haoles or , whites , overthrew the Hawaiian

Monarchy , formed the Dole Republic , and Shortly thereafter brought their loot in under

of the sheltering folds the Stars and Stripes . ” There is little use to balk at the word loot .

The white man is the born looter . And j ust as the North American Indian was looted o f

the so his continent by white man , was the Hawaiian looted by the white men of his islands . Such things be . They are morally indefensible . As facts they are irrefragable

as irrefragable as the facts that water drowns , that frost bites , and that fire incinerates . 1 6 THE NEW HAWAII

And let this particular haole who writes these lines here and now subscribe his j oy and

gladness in the Hawaiian loot . Of all places

o f sun— beauty and j oy under the but there ,

I was born in California , which is no mean

place in itself, and it would be more meet to let some o f the talking be done by the Hawaii

haole . o f born , both Polynesian and First all ,

- the Hawaii born , unlike the Californian , does

ou not talk big . When y come down to the ” ou sa Islands y must Visit us , he will y ;

’ ’ we ll give you a good time . That s all . i No swank . Just like an invitat on to dinner . And after the visit is accomplished you will confess to yourself that you never knew before what a good time was , and that for the first time yo u have learned the full alphabet o f hospitality . There is nothing like it . The

’ - o u Hawaii born won t tell y about it . He just does it .

Said Ellis , nearly a century ago , in his Polynesian Researc hes On the arrival o f strangers , every man endeavoured to obtain o ne as a friend and carry him Off to his o wn habitation , where he is treated with the greatest kindness by the inhabitants of the district ; they place him on a high seat

1 8 THE NEW HAWAII

one and womanliness , and day , to your own vast surprise, you will find yourself seated in a high place o f hospitableness than which

’ there is none higher o n this earth s surface .

You will have loved your way there, and you will find it the abode of love .

Nor is that all . Since I , as an attestant , am doing the talking, let me be forgiven my

first- person intrusions . Detesting the tourist

of or of route , as a matter private whim quirk temperament, nevertheless I have crossed the tourist route in many places over the world and know thoroughly what I am talking

. a about And I can and do aver th t, in this

1 9 1 6 o f no W r year , I know place he e the a unheralded and uncredenti led tourist, if he

of so c is anything anything in himself, qui kly

finds himself among friends as here in Hawaii . Let me add : I know Of no people in any place who have been stung more frequently and deeply by chance visitors than have the

of old people Hawaii . Yet the heart and hale (house) hospitality holds . The Hawaii born is like the leopard ; spotted for good or i ill , neither can change h s spots . Wh y, only last evening I was talking with — — an Hawaii matron h ow shall I say One MY HAWAI IAN ALOHA 1 9

’ o f the first ladies . Her and her husband s trip to Japan for Cherry Blossom Time was can

celled for a year . Why She had received a wireless from a steamer which had already

sailed from San Francisco , from a girl friend ,

o f a new bride, who was coming to partake a generally extended hospitality of several

o wn years before . But why give up your good time I said Turn your house and servants over to the young couple and you ” on o wn go your trip just the same . But ”

sh e . that would never do , said That was

of all . She had no thought house and servants .

O She had once ffered her hospitality . She

o n hale must be there , the spot, in heart and

sh e - and person . And , island born , had always travelled east to the States and to Europe , while this was her first and long anticipated

sh e journey west to the Orient . But that Should be remiss in the traditional and trained and innate hospitality o f Hawaii was unthink

sh e able . Of course would remain . What else could She do

’ Oh , what s the use I was going to make

’ - the Hawaii born talk . They won t . They

’ can t . I Shall have to go o n and do all the talking myself. They are poor boosters . They 20 THE NEW HAWAII

on even try to boost, occasion but the latest steamship and railroad publicity agent from the mainland will give them cards and spades and talk all around them when it comes to describing what Hawaii so beautifully and

- in charmingly is . Take surf boarding, for

stance . A California real estate agent, with

that one asset , could make the burnt , barren f heart o Sahara into an oasis for kings . Not

- only did the Hawaii born not talk about it,

but they forgot about it . Just as the sport was

o ne at its dying gasp , along came , Alexander

Ford, from the mainland . And he talked .

- Surf boarding was the Sport Of sports . There

was nothing like it anywhere else in the world . They ought to be ashamed for letting it lan

’ one of guish . It was the island s assets , a draw ing card for travellers that would fill their hotels

and bring them many permanent residents , etc .

- He continued to talk, and the Hawaii born

smiled . What are you going to do about

it they said , when he buttonholed them

. ou into corners This is just talk, y know, ” o f J ust a line talk . I ’ m not going to do anything except

’ ’

. talk, Ford replied . It s you fellows who ve

got to do the doing .

MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 21

o f And all was as he said . And all which

I know for myself, at first hand , for I lived o n Waikiki beach at the time in a tent where — stands the Outrigger Club to - day twelv e

e o n hundr d members , with hundreds more the

waiting list, and with what seems like half a

- mile of surf board lockers . — ’ Oh yes , there s fishing in the islands , has been the customary manner o f the Haw au

’

o n . born s talk , when the mainland or in Europe

’ Come down some time and we ll take yo u ” f fishing . Just the same casual dinner sort o

o t . en an invitation to take p luck And, if c oura ed on g , he will go and describe with

‘ old antiquarian detail , how , in the good days , the natives wove baskets and twisted fish lines that lasted a century from the fibres of a plant that grew only in the spray o f the waterfall or cleared the surface o f the water with a spread o f the Oil o f the kukui nut and caught squid with bright cowrie shells tied fast o n

o f o r the end a string ; , fathoms deep , in the

of - caves the coral cliffs , encountered the octo pus and bit him to death with their teeth in the soft bone between his eyes above his

- parrot beak . Meanwhile these are the glad young days 22 THE NEW HAWAII o f new- fangled ways of fish - catching in which

’ the Hawaii - born s auditor is interested ; and meanwhile , from Nova Scotia to Florida and across the Gulf sea shore to the coast of

California , a thousand railroads , steamship

o f lines , promotion committees , boards trade , and real estate agents are booming the tarpon and the tuna that may occasionally be caught in their adjacent waters .

And all the time , though the world is just

o f o ne coming to learn it , the unchallengeable

- paradise for big game fishing is Hawaii . First

o f all . , there are the fish And they are all the year round , in amazing variety and pro fusion . The United States Fish Commission , without completing the task, has already

4 47 o f described distinct species , exclusive

- - fish . is the big, deep sea game It a matter

Of taking any day and any choice , from — harpooning sharks to Shooting flying - fish like

— o r quail with Shotguns , taking a stab at a

or . fi sh whale , trapping a lobster One can with barbless hooks and a Six - pound sinker at the end of a drop - line O ff Molokai in forty fathoms of water and catch at a single session , a miscellany as generous as to include : the six or - moelua fifteen- eight pound , the pound

24 THE NEW HAWAII

for light tackle ; to say nothing o f the ocean

bonita and the California bonita . There is

ulna the , pound for pound the gamest salt water fish that ever tried a rod ; and there is

ono - the , half way a swordfish , called by the

o f ancient Hawaiians the father the mackerel .

Also , there is the swordfish , at which light tackle men have never been known to sneer

after they had once hooked o ne . The swordfish

o f Hawaii , known by its immemorial native

’ of a a name , averages from three to four

hundred pounds , although they have been

six caught between and seven hundred pounds ,

five sporting swords feet and more in length . And not least are those two cousins of the

r of ambe j ack Florida , the yellow tail and the

o f amber fish , named by Holder as the fish Southern California par excellence and by him described for their beauty and desperateness in putting up a fight .

or And the tuna must not be omitted , , at

thunnas th nnus thunnus any rate , the y , the alalonsa thunnus macra tem s so , and the p ,

called by the scientists , but known by the

ii ahi Hawa ans under the generic name Of ,

- and , by light tackle men as the leaping tuna,

- fi - n a fin . the long tun , and the yellow tuna MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 25

I n . the past two months , Messrs Jump , Burn

ham and Morris , from the mainland , seem to have broken every world record in the tuna

line . They had to come to Hawaii to do it

but , once here , they did it easily , even if f Morris did break a few ribs in the doing o it .

o n . Just the other day, their last trip , Mr Jump landed a sixty - seven pound yellow - fin

o n - a nine thread line , and Mr . Morris similarly

fift - fiv e n a y pound o e . The record for Catalina

fift - ! is y one pounds . Pshaw Let this writer

o f from California talk big, after the manner hi his home state, and still keep wit n the truth .

- fin o ut o f A yellow tuna, recently landed Hawaiian waters and sold on the Honolulu

- market , weighed two hundred and eighty seven pounds

PART TWO

Hawaii is the home of shanghaied men and

of f women , and the descendants o shanghaied men and women . They never intended to be here at all . Very rarely , since the first whites

one came , has , with the deliberate plan o f coming to remain , remained . Somehow , the

of of love the islands , like the love a woman , 26 THE NEW HAWAII

ad just happens . One cannot determine in

o ne vance to love a particular woman , nor can

so . determine to love Hawaii One sees , and o ne loves or does not love . With Hawaii it seems always to be love at first sight . Those for or whom the islands were made, who

Off were made for the islands , are Swept their

o f feet in the first moments meeting, embrace , and are embraced . I remember a dear friend who resolved to come to Hawaii and make it his home for ever .

He packed up his wife , all his belongings , including his garden hose and rake and hoe , ” - said Good bye, proud California, and de parted . Now he was a poet , with an eye and

for soul beauty, and it was only to be expected that he would lose his heart to Hawaii as Mark Twain and Stevenson and Stoddard had before him . So he came , with his wife and garden hose and rake and hoe . Heaven alone knows what preconceptions he must have entertained . But the fact remains that he found naught of beauty and charm and delight .

His stay in Hawaii , brief as it was , was a hideous nightmare . In no time he was back in California . To this day he speaks with plaintive bitterness of his experience, although MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 27 he never mentions what became of his garden hose and rake and hoe . Surely the soil could not have proved niggardly to him

Otherwise was it with Mark Twain , who wrote o f Hawaii long after his Visit : No alien land in all the world has any deep , strong charm for me but that o ne ; no other land could SO longingly and beseechingly haunt me Sleeping and waking, through half a life

one . time, as that has done Other things leave me , but it abides ; other things change, but it remains the same . For me its balmy airs are always blowing , its summer seas

flashing in the sun the pulsing of its surf- beat

see its is in my ears ; I can garlanded crags , its leaping cascades , its plumy palms drowsing by the shore , its remote summits floating like islands above the c lou drac k ; I can feel the spirit o f its woodland solitudes ; I can hear the plash o f its brooks ; in my nostrils still lives the breath Of flowers that perished

a o twenty years g . One reads o f the first Chief Justice under

o n the Kamehamehas , that he was his way around the Horn to Oregon when he was

ersuadedt o p remain in Hawaii . Truly, Hawaii is a woman beautiful and vastly more per 28 THE NEW HAWAII

suasive and seductive than her Sister sirens f o the sea .

The sailor boy, Archibald Scott Cleghorn , had no intention Of leaving his Ship ; but he

Likelike looked upon the Princess , the Princess

Likelike o n looked him , and he remained to become the father of the Princess Kaiulani and to dignify a place of honour through long

years . He was not the first sailor boy to f . o leave his ship , nor the last One the recent

ones , whom I know well , arrived several years ago o n a yacht in a yacht race from the main

So land . brief was his permitted vacation from his bank c ashiership that he had planned

to return by fast steamer . He is still here . The outlook is that his children and his grand

children after him will be here . Another erstwhile bank cashier is Louis von

Tem sk son o f f p y, the the last British O ficer

killed in the Maori War . His New Zealand

’ a o ne bank gave him a ye r s vacation . The place he wanted to see above all others was

California . He departed . His ship stopped at

Hawaii . It was the same Old story . The Ship

on sailed without him . His New Zealand

saw bank never him again , and many years passed ere ever he saw California . But She MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 29

- had no charms for him . And to day, his sons

o n and daughters about him , he looks down half a world and all o f Maui from the rolling

grasslands o f the Haleakala Ranch .

There were the Gays and Robinsons . Scotch pioneers over the world in the good o ld days

when families were large and patriarchal ,

they had settled in New Zealand . After a time they decided to migrate to British Colum

- bia . Among their possessions was a full rigged

of one o f w as . ship , which their sons master

Like my poet friend from California , they

o n packed all their property board . But in

a of pl ce his garden hose and rake and hoe , they took their ploughs and harrows and all

. o ok their agricultural machinery Als , they to their horses and their cattle and their Sheep . When they arrived in British Columbia they would be in Shape to settle immediately , break

not the soil , and miss a harvest . But the ship ,

- as was the custom in the sailing ship days , stopped at Hawaii for water and fruit and vegetables . The Gays and Robinsons are still

or here , , rather, their venerable children , and younger grand - children and great grand

Likelike children for Hawaii , like the Princess , put her arms around them , and it was love 30 THE NEW HAWAII

at first sight . They took up land on Kauai

- o f and Niihau , the ninety seven square miles the latter remaining intact in their possession to this day .

I doubt that not even the missionaries , windjamming around the Horn from New

England a century ago , had the remotest

o f o ut thought living all their days in Hawaii . This is not the way o f missionaries over the world . They have always gone forth to far places with the resolve to devote their lives to the glory o f God and the redemption o f the heathen , but with the determination, at the

o f end it all , to return to spend their declining years in their own country . But Hawaii can seduce missionaries just as readily as She can seduce sailor boys and bank cashiers , and this particular lot Of missionaries was so enamoured of her charms that they did not return when

Old age came upon them . Their bones lie here in the land they came to love better than

o w n their ; and they , and their sons and daughters after them , have been , and are , powerful forces in the development o f

Hawaii .

In missionary annals , such unanimous and

of eager adoption a new land is unique . Yet

MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 31

in another thing, equally unique missionary history, must be noted in passing . Never did

o ut missionaries , the very first , go to rescue a heathen land from its idols , and on arrival

- find it already rescued , self rescued , while they

o n 1 8 1 9 were the j ourney . In , all Hawaii was groaning under the harsh rule of the anc ient idols , whose mouthpieces were the priests and whose utterances were the frightfully cru el 1 8 1 9 and unjust taboos . In , the first mission aries assembled in Boston and sailed away o n 1 8 1 9 the long voyage around the Horn . In ,

o f the Hawaiians , themselves , without counsel o r suggestion , overthrew their idols and 1 8 20 abolished the taboos . In , the missionaries completed their long voyage and landed in Hawaii to find a country and a people without

for gods and without religion , ready and ripe instru ction . f But to return . Hawaii is the home o shanghaied men and women , who were induced to remain , not by a blow with a club over the

o r head a doped bottle of whisky , but by love . Hawaii and the Hawaiians are a land and a people loving and lovable . By their language may ye know them , and in what other land save this o ne is the commonest form o f greet 32 THE NEW HAWAII

’ ing, not Good day , nor How d ye do ,

Aloha— but Love That greeting is love , — ou . I love y , my love to you Good day what is it more than an impersonal remark about the weather How do you do— it is personal

o f in a merely casual interrogative sort a w ay. But Aloha ! It is a positive affirmation o f the ’ of o wn - warmth one s heart giving . My love to you I love you ! Aloha !

Well , then , try to imagine a land that is

as lovely and loving as such a people . Hawaii

o f . Not sub is all this strictly tropical , but

a of - tropic l , rather, in the heel the North east

w o f Trades (which is a very ine wind) , with altitudes rising from palm - fronded coral beaches to snow - capped summits fourteen thousand feet in the air ; there was never so much climate gathered together in o ne place o n o f earth . The custom the dwellers is as it

o ld to a was Of time , only better, namely h ve a town house , a seaside house , and a mountain house . All three homes , by automobile , can

’ be within half an hour s run of one another ;

ff o f yet , in di erence climate and scenery, they are the equivalent o f a house o n Fifth Avenue or of the Riverside Drive , an Adirondack

o f s camp , and a Florida winter bungalow , plu MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 33

’ a twelve - months cycle of seasons crammed into each and every day .

Let me try to make this clearer . The New York dweller must wait till summer for the

for . Adirondacks , till winter the Florida beach

o n o f But in Hawaii , say the island Oahu , the Honolulu dweller can decide each day what climate and what season he desires to spend the day in . It is his to pick and choose . Yes , and further he may awake in his Adirondacks , lunch and shop and go to the club in his city , spend his afternoon and dine at his Palm

Beach , and return to Sleep in the shrewd

o f n coolness his Adiro dack camp .

Of of And what is true Oahu , is true all the

o f other large islands the group . Climate and season are to be had for the picking and

r choosing, with countless su prising variations thrown in for good measure . Suppose one be

’ an invalid , seeking an invalid s climate . A

’ night s run from Honolulu on a steamer will land him o n the leeward coast o f the big Island

. f o n Of Hawaii There , amongst the cof ee the

o f a slopes Kona, a thousand feet above K ilua

sea and the wrinkled , he will find the perfect

- invalid climate . It is the land Of the morning calm , the afternoon shower , and the evening 34 THE NEW HAWAII

tranquillity . Harsh winds never blow . Once in a year o r two a stiff wind of twenty - four to

- forty eight hours will blow from the south .

This is the Kona wind . Otherwise there is no

- of wind , at least no air draughts sufficient force to be so dignified, They are not even

z are - bree es . They air fans , alternating by day

se and by night between the a and the land .

sun m Under the , the land war s and draws to

sea . n it the mild air In the ight, the land

sea radiating its heat more quickly , the remains the warmer and draws to it the mountain air f faintly drenched with the perfume o flowers .

o f Such is the climate Kona , where nobody

o f at ever dreams looking a thermometer , where each afternoon there falls a refreshing spring shower, and where neither frost nor

All of sunstroke has ever been known . which is made possible by the towering bulks o f

Manna . Mauna Kea and Loa Beyond them , o n o f the windward Slopes the Big Island , Ham akua along the Coast, the trade wind will as Often as not be blustering at forty miles

- an hour . Should an Oregon web foot become homesick for the habitual wet of his native

o n clime , he will find easement and a soaking

of the windward coasts Hawaii and Maui , from MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 35 Hilo in the south with its average annual rainfall of one hundred and fifty inches to the Nahiku country to the north beyond Hana which has known a downpour of four hundred

- and twenty inches in a single twelve month . In the matter o f rain it is again pick and — choose from two hundred inches to twenty ,

o r o r o ne . five , Nay , further , forty miles

on away from the Nahiku , the leeward slopes

o f of the House the Sun , which is the mightiest

extinct volcano in the world , rain may not fall

once in a dozen years , cattle live their lives without ever seeing a puddle and horses brought from that region Shy at running water

o r try to eat it with their teeth . One can multiply the foregoing examples

indefinitely, and to the proposition that never was so much climate gathered together in o ne

so place , can be added that never was much

o ne landscape gathered together in place .

The diversification is endless , from the lava shores of South Puna to the barking sands

! of - Kauai . On every island break neck moun

tain climbing abounds . One can shiver above timber - line o n the snow - caps o f Mauna Kea

o r Mauna Loa, swelter under the banyan and

e o ld sle py Lahaina, swim in clear ocean water 36 THE NEW HAWAII that effervesces like champagne on ten thou

o r sand beaches , sleep under blankets every night in the upland pastures o f the great cattle ranges and awaken each morning to the

of o f song Skylarks and the crisp , snappy air

spring . But never, never, go where he will in

ei Hawaii N , will he experience a hurricane, a

o r e tornado , a blizzard , a fog, ninety degr es in the shade . Such discomforts are meteor olo ic all so g y impossible , the meteorologists

affirm . When Hawaii was named the Paradise o f the Pacific , it was inadequately named . The rest o f the Seven Seas and the islands in the midst thereof should have been included along with the Pacific . See Naples and die — they spell it differently here : see Hawai i

and live.

Nor is Hawan niggardly toward the sports man . Good hunting abounds . AS I write

o n Puuwaawaa these lines Ranch , from every

- of a side arises the love call the qu il , which are breaking up their coveys as the mating pro c eeds . They are California quail , yet never in California have I seen quail as thick as here . — Yesterday I saw more doves variously called — turtle doves and mourning doves than I ever saw before in any single day of my life . Day

38 THE NEW HAWAII

or most fortunate, seek for the secret and

- o f taboo burial places the ancient kings . a Indeed , H waii is a loving land . Just as it welcomed the spotted deer to the near

o f SO destruction its forests , has it welcomed

many other inimical aliens to its Shores . In

old the United States , in greenhouses and

fashioned gardens , grows a potted flowering

shrub called lantana , which originally came from South America ; in India dwells a very noisy and quarrelsome bird known as the

mynah . Both were introduced into Hawaii , the bird to feed upon the cutworm of a certain moth called spodoptera mauritia the flower to gladden with o ld associations the heart o f

w r- a flo e loving missionary . But the land

loved the lantana . From a small plant that

o f grew in a pot with its small , velvet flowers

o f richest tones orange , yellow , and rose , the lantana took to itself feet and walked o ut o f

’ the pot into the missionary s garden . Here it flourished and increased mightily in Size and

constitution . From over the garden wall

- o f came the love call all Hawaii , and the

lantana responded to the call , climbed over

a- a- the wall , and went roving and loving in the wild woods . MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 39 And just as the lantana had taken to itself

o f feet, by the seduction the seeds in its

- aromatic blue black berries , it added to itself

o f the wings the mynah , who distributed its

seed over every island in the group . Like

o f the creatures Mr . Wells writes of who ate

of so the food the gods and became giants , the

- lantana . From a delicate , hand manicured ,

potted plant of the greenhouse , it Shot up into a tough and belligerent swashbuckler from

o ne to three fathoms tall , that marched in

serried ranks over the landscape , crushing beneath it and choking to death all the sweet

native grasses , shrubs , and flowers . In the

lower forests it became jungle . In the open

so it became jungle , only more . It was

practically impenetrable to man . It filled and blotted out the pastures by tens o f thou f sands o acres . The cattlemen wailed and vainly fought with it . It grew faster and

Spread faster than they could grub it o ut. Like the invading whites who dispossessed

of so the native Hawaiians their land , did the

lantana to the native vegetation . Nay , it did worse . It threatened to dispossess the whites of - the land they had won . And battle royal

o n. was Unable to cope directly with it , the 4 0 THE NEW HAWAII whites called in the aid o f the hosts of mer

ri s o ut c ena e . They sent their agents to recruit armies from the insect world and from the

- world o f micro organisms . Of these doughty

o f o ne warriors let the name but , as a sample ,

w l ell be given crenastobombycia anten a. Promi nent among these recruits were the lantana

- fl - seed y, the lantana plume moth , the lantana

- butterfly , the lantana leaf miner, the lan

- - fl . tana leaf bug, the lantana gall y Quite by accident the Maui blight or scale w as en

listed . f Some o f these predaceous enemies o the .

lantana ate and sucked and sapped . Others

out of made incubators the stems , tunnelled

and undermined the flower clusters , hatched

o f o r maggots in the hearts the seeds , coated

the leaves with suffocating fungoid growths . Thus simultaneously attacked in front and a re r and flank , above and below , inside and

- o ut . , the all conquering swashbuckler recoiled

- da To y the battle is almost over, and what remains o f the lantana is putting up a sickly

o ne o f and losing fight . Unfortunately , the

mercenaries has mutinied . This is the acci a dent lly introduced Maui blight , which is now waging unholy war upon garden flowers MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 4 1

and ornamental plants , and against which some other arm y of mercenaries must be turned Hawan has been most generous in her

hospitality , most promiscuous in her loving .

Her welcome has been impartial . To her warm

sh e of heart has enfolded all manner hurtful ,

di . stinging things , inclu ng some humans

Mosquitoes , centipedes and rats made the and long voyages , landed, have flourished

of ever since . There was none these here

SO before the haole came . , also , were intro

du c ed measles , smallpox , and many similar f germ afflictions o man . The elder generations lived and loved and fought and went down into the pit with their war weapons and flower

garlands laid under their heads , unvexed by

whooping cough , and mumps , and influenza .

of Some alien good, and much alien ill , has

Hawaii embraced and loved . Yet to this day

o r no snake , poisonous otherwise , exists in her forests and jungles while the centipede is no t

disc om deadly , its bite being scarcely more

of o r forting than the sting a bee wasp . Some

snakes did arrive , once . A showman brought them for exhibition . In passing quarantine they had to be fumigated . By some mis 4 2 THE NEW HAWAII

ff chance they were all su ocated , and it is whispered that the quarantine offi cials might have more to say of that mischance than f appeared in their o ficial report .

Oh ! . And , there is the mongoose Originally introduced from India via Jamaica to wage

o n war that earlier introduction , the rat, which was destroying the sugar- cane planta

b e d d tions , the mongoose multiplied y n all gu estly bounds and followed the lantana into n the plains a d forests . And in the plains and forests it has well - nigh destroyed many of the

o f - indigenous species ground nesting birds , made serious inroads o n the ground - nesting

is of imported birds , and compelled all ra ers domestic fowls to build mongoose - proof chicken yards . In the meantime the rats have changed their nesting habits and taken to the trees . Some of the pessimistic farmers even aver that , like the haole chickens which went wild in the woods and crossed with the moa, the mongoose has climbed the trees , made friends

a h as ro with and m ted with the rats , and p du c ed a permanent hybrid of omnivorous

’ - appetite that eats sugar cane , birds eggs , and farmyard chickens indiscriminately and voraci

l sa eth . ou s y. But further deponent y not MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 4 3

PART THREE

Hawaii is a great experimental laboratory ,

not merely in agriculture , but in ethnology

o f and sociology . Remote in the heart the

of Pacific , more hospitable to all forms life

than any other land, it has received an immi

ratio n o f g alien vegetable , insect , animal , and human life more varied and giving rise to more complicated problems than any other land has

received . And right intelligently and whole heartedly have the people o f Hawaii taken hold of these problems and striven to wrestle them to solution .

A melting - pot o r a smelting - pot is what

Hawaii is . In a single school , at one time I have observed scholars Of as many as twenty - three different nationalities and mixed f nationalities . First o all is the original

o f Hawaiian stock pure Polynesian . These were the people whom Captain Cook discovered , the first pioneers who voyaged in double canoes from the South Pacific and colonized Hawaii at what is estimated from their tra ditio ns as some fifteen hundred years ago .

’ Next, from Captain Cook s time to this day , 4 4 THE NEW HAWAII

or — has drifted in the haole , Caucasian Yankee ,

Scotch , Irish , English , Welsh , French , German , — Scandinavian every Caucasian country o f

o f Europe , and every Caucasian colony the t world has contributed its quota . And no least to be reckoned with , are the deliberate importations o f unskilled labour for the purpose f f o working the sugar plantations . First o these was a heavy wave Of Chinese coolies . But the Chinese Exclusion Act put a stop to their coming . In the same way, King Sugar

o f has introduced definite migrations Japanese ,

Koreans , Russians , Portuguese , Spanish , Porto

Ricans , and Filipinos . With the exception o f the Japanese, who are j ealously exclusive

o f in the matter race , all these other races insist and persist in intermarrying , and the Situation here should afford much valuable data for the ethnologist . Of the original Haw anans o ne thing is certain . They are doomed to extinction . Year by year the total number o f the pure

Hawaiians decreases . Marrying with the other races as they do , they could persist as hybrids , — if if fresh efi usions of them c ame in from ou tside sources equivalent to suc h c ontinued effusions as

e f do c om e in of the oth r races . But no ef usions

MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 4 5

o f Polynesian come in nor have ever come in .

’ Steadily, since Captain Cook s time, they have

To - o f faded away . day , the representatives

practically all the old chief- stocks and royal

- - stocks are half whites , three quarter whites ,

- and seven eighths whites . And they, and their

o r children, continue to marry whites , seven

eighths and three - quarters whites like them

s so elves , that the Hawaiian strain grows thinner and thinner against the day when it All will vanish in thin air . of which is a pity, for the world can ill afford to lose so splendid

and lovable a race .

o f And yet, in this period world war wherein the United States finds it necessary to prepare against foes that may at any time launch

out against it of the heart of civilization, little

a - H waii , with its hotch potch Of races , is mak ing a better demonstration than the United

States . The National Guard has been so thoroughly

reorganized , livened up , and recruited that it makes a showing second to none on the

Mainland , while , in proportion to population , it has more of this volunteer soldiery than any o f the forty - eight states and territories in the a United States . In ddition to the mixed com 4 6 THE NEW HAWAII

anies p , there are entire companies of Hawai

- ians , Portuguese , Chinese (Hawaii born) , and Filipinos ; and the reviewing stand sits up and takes notice when it casts its eyes over

them and over the regulars . N0 better opportunity could be found for Observing this medley o f all the human world

than that afforded by the Mid - Pac ific Carnival last February when the population turned o ut

and held festival for a week . Nowhere within the territory o f the United States could so

unfo r exotic a spectacle be witnessed . And

e flow er- gettable wer the garlanded Hawaiians ,

’ the women pa u riders o n their lively steeds

with flowing costumes that swept the ground ,

toddling Japanese boys and girls , lantern

o ut o f processions straight old Japan , colossal

dragons from the Flowery Empire , and Chinese

tw o schoolgirls , parading two by in long

winding columns , bareheaded , their demure

black braids down their backs , slimly graceful f in the white costumes o their foremothers .

At the same time , while the streets stormed with confetti and serpentines tossed by the laughing races of all the world , in the throne room o f the old palace (no w the Executive Building) was occurring an event as bizarre MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 4 7

n . in its ow way and equally impressive Here , side by side , the two high representatives of the old order and the new held reception .

Seated , was the aged Queen Liliuokalani , the last reigning sovereign o f Hawaii ; standing beside her was Lucius E . Pinkham , New

a o f . Engl nd born , the Governor Hawan A

of quarter a century before , his brothers had dispossessed her o f her kingdom ; and quite a feather was it in his cap fo r him to have

a for her beside him th t night, it was the first time in that quarter of a century that anyone had succeeded in winning her from her seclusion

- to enter the throne room . And about them , among brilliantly uniformed army and navy ffi O cers , from generals and admirals down , and moved judges senators , sugar kings and

of captains industry , the economic and political

u o f o f r lers Hawaii , and many them , they and their women , intermingled descendants of the o ld chief stocks and Of the Old missionary and merchant pioneers . And what more meet than that in Hawaii , the true Aloha - land which has welcomed and loved all wayfarers from all other lands , that the Pan - Pac ific movement should have origin it ated . This had s inception in the mind o f 4 8 THE NEW HAWAII

— h e Mr . Alexander Hume Ford of Outrigger Club fame who resurrected the sports o f surf

- boarding and surf canoeing at Waikiki . Hands

- - Pac ific Around the , he calls the movement ; and already these friendly hands are reach ing out and clasping all the way from British

Columbia to Panama , from New Zealand

on to Australia and Oceanica, and to Java , a the Philippines , China and Japan , and round

- and back again to Hawaii, the Cross Roads o f the Pacific and the logical heart and home

of and centre the movement . — Hawaii is a paradise and I can never cease proclaiming it ; but I must append o ne word o f qualification : Hawaii is a paradise

or t ell- - f he w to do . It is not a paradise for

the unskilled labourer from the mainland , nor for the person without capital from the main

o ne o f land . The great industry the islands

is sugar . The unskilled labour for the planta

. Al un tions is already here so , the white

a o f skilled labourer, with higher standard living , cannot compete with coolie labour, W and , further, the hite labourer cannot and

c nefi lds will not work in the a e .

r Fo the person without capital , dreaming

on to start a shoestring and become a capitalist, MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 4 9

u Hawaii is the last place in the world . It m st be remembered that Hawaii is very Old

comparatively . When California was a huge

cattle - ranch for hides and tallow (the meat

being left where it was skinned) , Hawaii was publishing newspapers and boasting schools

of o f higher learning . During the early years

o f the gold rush , before the soil California was

scratched with a plough , Hawaii kept a fleet of

Ships busy carrying her wheat , and flour, and

w as potatoes to California, while California sending her children down to Hawaii to be

educated . The shoestring days are past . The land and industries of Hawaii are owned by

old a families and large corporations , and Haw ii nl is o y so large . m a But the homesteader y obj ect, saying that he has read the reports of the millions of acres o f Government land in Hawaii which

are his for the homesteading . But he must remember that the vastly larger portion o f this Government land is naked lava rock and not worth ten cents a square mile to a home

steader o f , and that much the remaining

s land , while rich in soil values , is worthles

because it is without water . The small portion o f good Government land is leased by th e D 50 THE NEW HAWAII

plantations . Of course , when these leases expire, they may be homesteaded . It has been done in the past . But such homesteaders , in after making good their titles , almost variably sell out their holdings in fee Simple

a . to the plantations . There is a re son for it There are various reasons for it Even the skilled labourer is needed only in n small , defi ite numbers . Perhaps I cannot do better than quote the warning circulated by the Hawaiian Promotion Committee No American is advised to come here in search o f employment unless he has some definite

or to work in prospect , means enough maintain himself for some months and to launch into some enterprise . Clerical positions are well filled ; common labour is largely performed

a o r by Jap nese native Hawaiians , and the ” ranks o f Skilled labour are also well supplied . Fo r be it understood that Hawaii is

E c onom patriarc hal rather than de mocratic . ic ally it is owned and Operated in a fashion

f - that is a combination o twentieth century , machine - civiliz ation methods and of medieval

to feudal methods . Its rich lands , devoted sugar, are farmed not merely as scientifically r as any land is farmed anywhere in the wo ld ,

MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 5 1

but, if anything, more scientifically . The last

word in machinery is vocal here , the last word

in fertilizing and agronomy , and the last word

o f in scientific expertness . In the employ

’ the Planters Association is a corps of scientific investigators w ho wage unceasing war o n the insect and vegetable pests and who are on the travel in the remotest parts o f the world recruiting and shipping to Hawaii insect and

- micro organic allies for the war .

9 The Sugar Planters Association and the several sugar factors or financial agencies control sugar, and , since sugar is king , control f the destiny and welfare o the Islands . And

do ul they are able to this , under the pec iar f conditions that obtain , far more e ficiently than it could be done by the population o f

Hawaii , were it a democratic commonwealth , f which it essentially is not . Much o the stock in these corporations is owned in small lots by members o f the small business and pro f i n l ess o a classes . The larger blocks are held by families who , earlier in the game , ran their small plantations for themselves , but who learned that they could not do it so well and so profitably as the corporations , which , with centralized management , could hire far better 5 2 THE NEW HAWAII

o f brains for the entire operation the industry , from planting to marketing, than was pos

o f sessed by the heads the families . As a

o r result , absentee ownership landlordship has come about . Finding the work done better for them than they could do it themselves , they prefer to live in their Honolulu and seaside

to and mountain homes , to travel much , and develop a cosmopolitanism and culture that never misses shocking the traveller or new- comer

o f with surprise . All which makes this class in Hawaii as cosmopolitan as any class to be found the world over . Of course, there are notable exceptions to this practice of absentee

o wn landlordism , and such men run their plantations and corporations and are active as sugar factors and in the management of

’ the Planters Association . Yet will I dare to assert that no owning class o n the mainland is so conscious o f its social responsibility as is this owning class

O f of Hawaii , and especially that portion it which has descended o ut o f the old missionary stock . Its charities , missions , social settle ments , kindergartens , schools , hospitals , homes , and other philanthropic enterprises are many its activities are unceasing ; and some of its MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 5 3

members contribute from twenty - five to fifty per cent o f their incomes to the work fo r the

general good .

But all the foregoing, it must be remembered ,

is not democratic nor communal , but is dis l tinc t y feudal . The coolie and peasant labour

s posse ses no vote , while Hawaii is after all

only a territory, its governor appointed by

o f o ne the President the United States , its delegate sitting in Congress at Washington

but denied the right to vote in that body .

Under such conditions , it is patent that the small class Of large landowners finds it not to o difficult to control the small vote in local

o f politics . Some the large landowners are

or Hawaiian part Hawaiian , as are practically

all the smaller landowners . And these and the landholding whites are knit together by

a common interest , by social equality , and ,

of in many cases , by the closer bonds affection and blood relationship .

Interesting , even menacing, problems loom

no t large for Hawaii in the distant future .

one o f Let but these be considered , namely , the Japanese and citizenship . Granting that no Japanese immigrant can ever become a r i n turalized, neve theless rema ns the irre 5 4 THE NEW HAWAII

fra ab le g law and fact that every male Japanese ,

- Hawaii born, by his birth is automatically a f c itizen o the United States . Since practically

every other person in all Hawaii is Japanese , it is merely a matter o f time when the Hawaii born Japanese vote will not only be larger a than any other H waiian vote , but will be

practically equal to all other votes combined .

When such time comes , it looks as if the Japanese will have the dominant say in local

politics . If Hawaii Should get statehood , a Japanese governor o f the State of Hawaii

would be not merely probable but very possible . One feasible way out of the foregoing predicament would be never to strive for statehood but to accept a commission govern

ment , said commission to be appointed by

the federal government . Yet would remain

o f the question control in local politics . The Japanese do not fuse any more than do they

o t Of marry u their race . The total vote other t Old han Japanese is split into the two parties . The Japanese would constitute a solid Japanese party capable o f o ut- voting either the

Republican o r Democratic parties . In the meantime the Hawaii - born Japanese popula tion grows and grows . In passing it may be MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 5 5

significantly noted that while the Chinese ,

Filipinos , and Portuguese flock enthusiastically

into the National Guard , the Japanese do not .

But a truce to far troubles . This is my — Hawaiian aloha my love for Haw aii ; and I cannot finish it without stating a dear hope for a degree of honour that may some day

be mine before I die . I have had several

o f degrees in the past which I am well proud . When I had barely turned six teen I was named Prince of the Oyster Pirates by my fellow

- pirates . Since they were all men grown and

- a hard bitten lot, and since the term was i ’ appl ed in anything but derision , my lad s

pride in it was justly great . Not long after, another mighty degree was given me by a shipping commissioner in San Francisco , who

’

n o n A. B Sig ed me the ship s articles as . Think

- not of it Able bodied I was a landlubber,

A. B . nor an ordinary seaman , but an ! An able - bodied seaman before the mast ! No

o ne O— higher could g before the mast . And in those youthful days o f romance and adven ture I would rather have been an able - bodied seaman before the mast than a captain aft of it . When I went over Chilcoot Pass in the first 56 THE NEW HAWAII

c hec ha uo . Klondike rush, I was called a q

to - That was equivalent new comer, greenhorn,

o r tenderfoot , short horn , new chum , and as such I looked reverently up to the men

- f who were sour doughs . It was a custom o

o ld- m - the country to call an ti er a sour dough .

A sour - dough was a man who had seen the

Yukon freeze and break , travelled under the

midnight sun , and been in the country long enough to get over the frivolities of baking powder and yeast in the making o f bread and to content himself with bread raised from

- sour dough .

f - I am very proud o my sour dough degree .

A few years ago I received another degree .

It was in the West South Pacific . A kinky

- - headed, asymmetrical , ape like , head hunting cannibal climbed out o f his canoe and over

the rail and gave it to me . He wore no clothes

- positively no covering whatever . On his

chest , from around his neck , was suspended a broken , white China plate . Through a hole in o ne ear was thrust a Short clay pipe . Through divers holes in the other c ar were thru st a

’ freshly severed pig s - tail and several rifle

cartridges . A bone bodkin four inches long was shoved through the dividing wall Of his

5 8 THE NEW HAWAII

spirit . A man may live in Hawaii for twenty and years yet not be recognized as a kamaaina . He has remained alien in heart warmth and

Spirit understanding .

o ne Nor can assume this degree for oneself. Any man who has seen the seasons around in Alaska automatically becomes a sour - dough

so and can be the first to designate himself. But here in Hawaii kamaaina must be given

n so to o e . He must be named by the ones who do belong and who are best fitted to judge whether or not he belongs . Kamaaina is the proudest accolade I know that any people can lay with the love - warm steel of its approval

’ o n an alien s back .

‘ ! o f Pshaw Were it a matter time, I could almost be reckoned a kamaaina myself. Nearly

l— a quarter Of a century ago to be precise , — twenty - four years ago I first saw these fair

t f se a islands rise o u o the . I have been back here numerous times . As the years pass , I return with increasing frequency and for longer stays . Of the past eighteen months I have spent twelve here .

Some day , someone of Hawaii may slap me o n sa the shoulder and y, Hello , old kama ” n aina. A d some other day I may chance to MY HAWAIIAN ALOHA 5 9

overhear someone else o f Hawaii speaking o f

’ ”

h e s . me and saying, Oh , a kamaaina And this may grow and grow until I am generally so spoken o f and until I may at last say of ” myself I am a kamaaina . I belong . And this is my Hawaiian Aloha

o e ! Aloha nui , Hawaii Nei

JACK LONDON .

PUUWAAWAA ANCH AWAI I R , H , A ril 1 1 916 p 9 , .

T HE N EW HAWAI I

CHAPTER I

’ MY RETURN To J ACK S LOVE - LAND

WENT back , alone . And in that alone

ness there was something very solemn .

wh o Of course I went back . One knows

o ld Hawaii always go es back . The lure

’ abides ; nor does it abate when the vessel s

fl in - fish forefoot, spurning the silver y g , is heard thripping into the silken azure sea - level

which betokens nearness to remembered isles . ” old Again The lost stars wheel back , again the yard - arm of the Southern Cross leans upon

- the night purple horizon again the Old , lovely

approach to Oahu , with Molokai , the lonely ” - Isle , sleeping to the south east .

o ne If never before overtook romance , per

o r sonal impersonal , in Hawaii one is fairly

certain to run it to earth . It is everywhere

o f th e in the air, the rainbows , the breathing 6 1 6 2 THE NEW HAWAII

’ It of incomparable surf. is in the eyes one s

- of fellow men , in the tones their friendly voices in their smile and laughter and hand

. z clasp Commerciali e , modernize that para

of dise the Pacific as men will , still Romance caresses and envelops the most rigorous im

ortations p from less gentle climes .

SO o f , course , I went back ; always having

own taken my romance with me , I had but added to it from tl m e to time of my returning ffi t with Jack London . It was di cul to face it without him ; but I believe that one who avoids awakening memories loses much of the worth and reality Of living .

’ s n of It was the S S. Maui first navigati g her Old co urse since war service in the Atlantic . Long will sound in the ears o f her passengers

o f - sea the mighty conching her deep siren, as the battle - grey hull warped ponderously in to the quay . Every brazen throat, every clangorous bell of Honolulu joined in Swelling the deafening paean . Never had the many enlarged wharves been so obliterated by

- flow er . waving , shouting, bedecked thousands It must have been a proud and glad welcome for Captain Francis Milner Edwards , who had

a rox i sailed her throughout the war . The pp ’ MY RETURN TO JACK S LOVE - LAND 63

o f mate number men under arms in Hawaii ,

e as given by the American Legion , had be n

eight thousand five hundred . This included practically every nationality represented in

the islands and embraced army and navy . A large proportion was in the federalized a Nation l Guard , which had taken over the

local garrison , releasing the regular troops for

service on the mainland or overseas .

To me , how strange, this arriving alone in n f Honolulu . Not o e o all my friends knew I

was Maui. aboard the Sheltered by a lifeboat ,

on I stood the hurricane deck , watching the concourse as it greeted , and bound with

o f embraces and fragrant ropes blossoms , its disembarking guests . There is no welcome

’ so o n rare as Hawaii s . Do I not know But that day not a familiar face could I pick o ut in

of the vast bouquet upturned , expectant faces ,

o f - though in it were a score well known ones .

o f I have Since wondered at my lack emotion . r Natu e , as if to bear me across a void , seemed to have congealed all tears and thrills . I was conscious o f wanting to shun seeing anyone I

o f knew afraid emotion , perhaps . What I

o f - diffi now recall is a sense creeping, half de ntl - y, half curiously , between two hedges o f 64 THE NEW HAWAII humanity that formed a lane through the lofty

sheds to the street .

’ Mrs But aren t you . Jack !

Startled , I looked up into a fresh , young face . Joe 1 It was Alexander Hume Ford ’ s

ward, a mere acquaintance . Never before had I noticed in him any striking resemblance to

an angel . Assuring me he was not meeting

anyone, into his car he tucked me . It did not seem necessary to explain that I wanted to

drive about the city, and to Waikiki, before

letting anyone know I had come . Joe seemed w to understand . I ould have it all over first ; I would acquaint myself thoroughly with the

’ event - that I had come home to Jack s Love a l nd .

out Kalakau a We spun Avenue, past the lovely duck ponds that had mirrored for me more than o ne deathless dawn on those far morning arrivals from the other isles . And I heard with personal regret for loss o f the picturesque that holds back material progress that the ponds and swamps were to be drained .

Since then the work has gone forward, and a bridge been contrived across the Waikiki duck

o ur ponds . The span is named for old friend ,

Governor Lucius E . Pinkham , lately deceased,

’ MY RETURN TO JACK S LOVE - LAND 65

who was a pioneer in the idea of this drainage

movement .

Before I registered at the hotel , I had dared to look into my long garden on Kalia Road ; at the Beach Walk cottage o f earlier know

ledge ; once more at the Outrigger Club , had again shaken hands with Hawaii ’ s world

champion swimmer, Duke Kahanamoku, and

sea- met two other famous gods , Rudy Langer

and Norman Ross . Glancing under the Club

* lanai o ur s , where Jack and I had lain at lei ure

1 9 1 6 o f those balmy afternoons in , I thought

the book he was last writing at Waikiki , ” o f Jerry the Islands , and at the same time

o ut o f mapping its sequel , Michael , Brother ” Jerry , containing his appeal for the abolish

o f - for ment stage training animals .

’ Next, I had been whirled up Honolulu s

matchless background , upon a new and perfect

o f out of serpentine road , in and the verdant c afions that opened enchanting Vistas in every direction . The final dash was o ut to

Nuuanu Pali , to marvel afresh at the undis

’ appointing grandeur o f Oahu s windward sea

’ prospect , Oahu s dimming miles of green pine apple plantation upon rolling , rosy prairie ;

V eranda . 6 6 THE NEW HAWAII

’ Oahu s eroded mountains , my Mirrored ” Mountains , their bastions like green waves , frothing and curling with kukui foliage that f flooded clif and gorge . For that one day and night I went in th e same lightly frozen state , observing the world about me in a detached way . I telephoned

o ri surprised acquaintances , and gradually nt d e e myself. One never can know what small factor will thaw the ice . In the morning, upon

’ my tray it was Jack s favourite breakfast.

o f fruit in the tropics , the golden sickle the

a aia p p , that cut my controls and loosed the ! gate of tears . Why the papaia Why not

- o f as well the coco nut palms , the fragrance

leis * the waxen plumeria , the clinging caress o f ilima o f the golden , the sight the long garden

or beneath its palms at Waikiki ; , above all ,

’ the wet eyes o f Jack s friends and mine at meeting Why the mild breakfast melon from the carven papaia tree I do not know . Only can I record that thence on I was myself

o wn again, myself in my Hawaii, happily

o f f aware the compensations o life .

o f After the tears , the blessedness knowing W reaths . ’ MY RETURN TO JACK S LOVE - LAND 6 7 more than ever surely how kind are the

‘ H e ha a- haole hearts o f Hawaii . aol f p , t and all w Ha aiian , they flocked to me , dear friends , ” and gave me to understand that I belonged , — — that I was kamaaina I not less but more ln

ne double measure for myself and the lost o . I had made Honolulu my first port because of the uncertainty of post - war sailings for ”

o n . w as Hilo Hawaii , the Big Island I tired , body and brain , from a year devoted to — writing my biography o f Jack London which was published in England and the United

o f States in the fall of 1 9 21 . The gaieties

Honolulu were not for me . Serene Hilo , in

o f o ur the home , old friends , the Shipmans , a quiet winter upon the Big Island and Maui , should precede my Visit o n Oahu .

But Mother Shipman was in Honolulu , so I delayed sailing for a week . After a night at the Alexander Young in town , and declining

’ fo r o ld all generous invitations , sake s sake

at o ne o f I put up the Seaside Hotel , in its white cottages beneath some o f the finest

- coco nut palms in these islands . My rooms

’ s florist s oon resembled a Shop , and there were

" W i - i h te . 1 Half wh te . One - - i I who belongs old t mer . 6 8 THE NEW HAWAII no paper leis - paper ilima having largely superseded the real flower which has grown

w as very scarce . Conspicuous upon the lanai a graceful basket o f sweet peas and maidenhair

o ur from Yoshimatsu Nakata , nine years

o n sea domestic familiar land and , at home

o n and abroad , whom we originally shipped the yacht Snark at Hilo when we left for the

South Seas . Now Nakata had become a prosperous dentist, and a man of family I lunched purposely alone in the well remembered lanai circle , whence I could look out once more across the rainbow reef where

- sea- the mad , white maned horses tore beach

o f ward . Memories twelve years marched — across my mental vision a lovely pageantry in which the white sails of the doughty small

Snark appeared most often and vividly . Many brown peoples were in the procession . Then the savour of the warm salt spray upon my lips begged me to breast at least the wahine surf, the little inshore breakers . But when I d ha passed the shallow water, out to where the Bearded Ones reared green and menacing, I did not find my spirit quite so courageous as once with my Strong Traveller at hand . W oman . ’ MY RETURN TO JACK S LOVE - LAND 6 9

Thursday was Thanksgiving , and fell upon

my birthday for the first time in many years . There was a lovable rush o n the part of my Hawaiian family to gather choicest o f native * kaokao . for me Mary Low, she of our Royal 1 9 1 6 Progress in , had been the first to hear

Mrs . my voice over the wire . Her sister,

o n Hannah Hind, in whose house Hawaii

o f Jack had done some his last work , and their

saw Aunt Carrie Robinson , to it that I lacked none Of the peculiar delicacies than which in long wanderings I had found nothing more

’ to my palate s liking . Aunt Carrie , in her elegant car , did her own marketing, the native chauffeur, piled high with inviting parcels ,

- doing service between market and motor car .

o n Her suburban home the Peninsula at Pear,

o ne - o f Harbour, near my time acre Elysium , was the Scene o f a feast the like o f which is seldom spread in these degenerate days . Senator Robbie Hind and I vied in atten

Of tion to the greatest number viands , Aunt

Hannah , beaming with gratification in our enthusiasm . I won . Nor can I bring myself to be ashamed of my prowess . Which leads L me to believe that the most complicated luaui

OOd— [c w/cow o . F F pronounced t east. 70 THE NEW HAWAII in these delectable isles is a balanced ration for my otherwise sensitive organism

o f Midway this princely repast , I noticed across the flower - mounded table that one sylph - like maiden gazed o ut o f window with n a faraway look of repletio . ’ ‘3 Weakening I queried scornfully . ” I should say not ! sh e amiably dis claimed . Only resting

But here am I , in this my sequel to Jack

London and Hawaii , again writing at length concerning native feasting . In conclusion , I must repeat that he or she who fails to approach with open mind and appetite a

Sandwich (no pun intended) Islands banquet , f misses the ultimate o gustatory delights . For the casual soj ourner there are special

’ tourists luaus , tickets for which can be pur chased at the large hotels . A hula dance is included in the entertainment . And I must not neglect to mention that a serious fight is being waged o n the subject o f the commercial iz e d hula advertised and staged to attract strangers . Objection seems based upon the

o f lower features the dance being emphasized , instead o f the more beautiful and graceful f character o the classic hula . It is even

72 THE NEW HAWAII

’ same board had been done Jack s daily stint of manuscript . a I turned aw y desolate , grieved that I had come, and went down the lane to call upon

e a Miss Frances Johnson , who will be recall d s the kindly neighbour with whom we took o ur i noonday meals in those dreamful dayt at

Pearl Lochs . She was very full of years and

I thought , as I held her transparent , trembling hands and responded to her emotion , that it might be o ur last meeting . I was touched to sh e h ad not hear that planned , if I had ff come, to make the e ort to go to me in Hono lulu . She died the next year . CHAPTER II

— — MOTORING THE ROYAL COAT - OF- ARMS PINE — APPLE GROWING THE REFUGE OF B IRD S

INCE the Great War there has been much

o f talk, by way book and periodical , about the South Seas proper ; South Seas to Ameri cans meaning Tahiti , Samoa , Tonga , and other

Polynesian groups under the Equator, with little reference to the still raw and adventurous w Melanesian islands far to the west , kno n to us f o the Snark. But many who long to step upon the coralline sands of those first- men tio ned easterly isles below the Line , and cannot

so of our o wn sub - go far, lose sight tropics above that same Line , those Hawaiian Islands whose Spell works SO wonderfully within fiv e ’ — or six days steaming from California San

r o s Francisco o L Angeles . For o ne wh o would se e the island o f Oahu in short order, work on the great Kamehameha

Highway is progressing to its finish . A glance at the week - end automobile sections of Hono 73 74 THE NEW HAWAII

’ lulu s big newspapers leaves no doubt as to

o f the charms motoring about Hawaii . One of the most attractive means o f recrea tion here is under the auspices o f the Trail and Mountain Club , founded by that genius o f progress , Alexander Hume Ford , well known

o f to readers my earlier book . It is allied with

o f - Pac ific the local activities the Pan Union , and associated with the mountaineers ’ clubs o f North America, central information offices in New York City . It is proposed to establish

o f a centre information in Honolulu , which will

- so o f act as a clearing house , that a member o ne Pacific outing club may automatically become a visiting member o f any other similar

Pacific organization , should he travel in other lands than his own . Mr . Ford pursues a com

if ro mendable , rather startling, course in p

tin o f m o g this branch his work for the islands . i When a new trail is requ red , it is projected ,

of named for some citizen means , who is then notified that it will be his duty to bear the f o . expense building Once completed, the

Club keeps the trail in order . The actual labour is done by the Boy Scouts , who are advised which particular patriotic member o f

is society will pay them for their pains . It

THE ORIGINAL STATUE OF KAMAHA MEHA I MOTORING 75 understood that the money goes toward equip ment expenses o f the Scout troup which clears

the path and puts it in order . The outcome of all this agitation is that there are scores of mountain trails on the

of f o f island Oahu alone . O ficers the scheme have spent thousands o f dollars in erecting

- o f On o f rest houses , some which , as the rim

o n great Haleakala Maui , contain bunks and

camp accommodations . Mr . Ford explains his method o f drafting money and personal interest by the fact that the Club ’ s annual dues of are not adequate for its upkeep and expansion ; and so well has he presented the case that his fellow - citizens are convinced

‘ o f the value to the territory o f his unwavering drive to open up the wonders o f its interior to mankind at large . Automobile buses are utilized to transport hikers to points from which they may radiate into the fastnesses , and steamers are some times chartered to convey them to other

sa fo r islands , as , y, to a strategic harbour the

’ o f Haleakala s reaching crater .

of Now and again a patron the Club , haply

th e ' o o rtunit alive to pp y for increased health , mentally and physically , in a latitude wherein 76 THE NEW HAWAII the sea- level climate does not induce muscular ff e ort except at water sports , places funds at f the disposal o the officers . And it may be

of the Chinese , Filipino , or Japanese branch the brotherhood that is eager to cut the trail .

The animating spirit among these inter - racial limbs of the body proper is o ne o f mutual n service . Yet each unit maintains its o w social exclusiveness . Never was there a human melting - pot presenting less problems o n this score . The Associated Outing Clubs o f Hawan

o n have selected Haleiwa , Waialua , Oahu ,

of - as the location for the first their rest houses . o To the dabblers in sugar stock , I have it fr m

Mr . Ford , Haleiwa means little , and Waialua ” everything . Waialua means two waters , and the length o f the streams o f Oahu that pour from the mountains to the sea at Waialua spell millions in dividends ; for here there is never a drought . So , to the kamaaina ,

Haleiwa is Waialua . He loves both . Waialua dividends make Haleiwa House Beautiful

- f week ends possible for him . On the bank o

nahula the A River, which flows into the sea

SO ne near by where the swimming is fi , there is o f left a wing the Old Emerson homestead ,

78 THE NEW HAWAII o f ancient Oahu were born . The manager o f the plantation , Mr . W . W . Goodale , resident

o f there for a quarter a century , has made it his pleasure to fence and otherwise protect the site , with its sacred stone dedicated to maternity , and to plant trees and flowering shrubs in the enclosure . I was overjoyed to note that work had been done o n the red leagues to Waimanalo o n in windward Oahu . There , beside other

o f Go d destructible glories , is the finest swim ming beach in the Territory . I have always regretted that Honolulu was not on this eastern

o f coast Oahu , where the climate is infinitely more bracing . Of course, the original reason for building o n the leeward side was that in

of the days sailing vessels only, the windward side would have been strewn with wrecks . I shall not live to see this ; but I like to prophesy that some day a wonder - city w ill rise somewhere near Waimanalo beach .

One day , returning from that section , we

old angled aside to the Irwin place, Maunawili , in a green mountain pocket . Here, long years ago , Queen Liliuokalani composed her sweet

SO and simple song, now widely known and a associated with the island kingdom , Aloh MOTORING 79

- e . a O (Love to You) James Boyd , h pa haole , and a close friend of the royal family, had then been the owner and host .

Led by one who knew of the past regime , I

old wandered through the house , now occupied by a caretaker . Here the alii had j ourneyed merrily over the Pali from Honolulu to rest and play and feast , when there was no thought o f time ; when the heady air trembled with

- fragrance , and melody from happy , care free throats . It was a quaint experience , stepping up o r down from one built - o n part to another peering into musty wardrobes contemplating * the vast hikiés that had lulled long rows o f

Hawaiian noblemen to child - like slumber ; musing above the remnants of furniture brought by famous clippers around Cape Horn f for the use of the heads o the monarchy . And all the time in my ears the rich lore o f that generation now silent in death . I cannot

- help wondering if, in England to day , there are not o ne or more who can recall the Visit

of to London Queen Liliuokalani . The first to accept the hospitality o f the English Court 1 8 25 were Kamehameha II and his queen , in , where they are said to have been made much

v a wi iv w v Hard board beds , ery large, spre d th nat e o en ma 80 THE NEW HAWAII o f . A bit of heraldry will not be o ut of place here The Hawaiian Almanac and Annual for which in turn quotes from The

Pol nesian o y , a newspaper published in Hon l 31 1 8 45 lu u , of May , , makes statement that the coat - of- arms was designed by a high chief

Haalilio . named I borrow from Mary S . Lawrence ’ s description of the Royal Hawaiian escutcheon . It has been extensively repro duc ed in j ewellery , the colours pricked up in enamel , making a handsome souvenir .

It is divided into quarters . The first and fourth quarters of the shield contain the eight red , white and blue stripes which represent the inhabited islands . Upon the yellow background of the olonlou second and third quarters are the p , — o r tabu sticks white balls with black staffs . o f These were a sign of protection , as well as t abu .

In the centre is found a triangular flag,

uela alia o r . the p , lying across two , spears

This also was a Sign of tabu and protection . The background represents a mantle or military cloak Of royalty . At the sides are the supporters in feather cloaks and helmets . i m oku ihe Kam ee a on the right carries an , or o n spear, while Kamanawa, his twin brother, THE ROYAL COAT- OF- ARMS 8 1

kahili ff the left, holds a , or sta , used only upon

State occasions .

Above the shield is the crown , ornamented r with twelve ta o leaves . Below is the national motto taken from the speec h of the king upon Restoration Day The life of the land is ’ perpetuated by righteousness .

The coat - Of- arms has not been used by the Government since the islands have been a f territory o f the United States o America . On my trips I noted a greater spread o f n pineapple o windward Oahu . This industry has grown until it practically shares hono urs

o f with that sugar, superseding rice , once the

e s cond industry here . Raw sugar, to the

o f tune over five hundred thousand tons , was 1 9 n exported in 21 . The report o pineapple for 1 9 1 8 showed an export o f twenty million

. 1 9 20 p a k for tins In March , , the estimated c

six 1 9 21 that year was million cases , and produced nearly the same This in face o f m W ” discourage ents such as pineapple ilt , ” o f Kauai blight, and the Objection large

o f areas plants to take to manganese soil . The first pine plantation in Hawaii was begun in Manoa Valley behind Honolulu , by a

Devonshire man , Captain John Kidwell . He F 8 2 THE NEW HAWAII

1 8 72 came to San Francisco in , and a year

’ later sailed for Hawaii . In the early eighties he started planting the native pineapple shoots

o n from the Kona Coast, the Big Island, later 1 8 9 2 importing Old stumps from Florida . In

a hundred thousand plants were flourishing, and the Hawaiian Fruit and Packing Com

pany was formed . This was the second

fish - canning concern in these islands , canning

having been the only rival . Captain Kidwell

b ut of has lately died, at the age seventy

three . On another day I was again at the Mac ’ farlanes of B place , Refuge irds , Ahuimanu hard against my Mirrored Mountains that rise

- l straight and cloud crowned . O d as it had

appeared before, now it looks far more than thirteen years Older . Then it had been a tended decline, inhabited by gracious and graceful beings who dispensed unparalleled

~ nu hospitality . Now the mossy roofs lay repaired beneath sun and star, cloud and rain,

Silent , deserted . But the several hours in which we awakened the echoes in that long

- dining room and the familiar chambers , and

- in in terraced gardens and swimming pool , voked the spirit o f other days . Beyond THE REFUGE OF BIRDS 8 3

own o ne my California mountains , there is place above all others I should love to have

. o f and cherish It is Ahuimanu , Refuge

Birds . CHAPTER III

— ACADEMY OF DESIGN OUTDOOR E! HIB ITIONS — DECADENCE OF NATIVE PEOPLES KING ’ MAN S ISLAND

HAVE descanted upon the outdoor sports

o Of Hawaii . But would y u have instead the

o f ri orless fever city life in a g latitude , no metropolis so urbane and urban as Honolulu b - - y the sea . The hotel existence is a soft dream o f a leisure , dining, teas , bridge , bathing, c noe ing, and dancing in the immense lanais to the swooning Hawaiian strains or the latest main a nd land j azz , from stringed instruments voices o f native musicians . One new enterprise I noted was by way of

- well coached companies in little theatres .

Talent , and good talent , is recruited from both

s amateur and professional sources , even ome o f the older and most exclusive families now and then yielding enthusiastic characters to

o f the plays produced , which are the best selection . It is hardly necessary to mention 8 4

8 6 THE NEW HAWAII

the faculty are given , with prints or lantern slides , and outside artists , sculptors , and designers of note are secured for lectures whenever possible . Good paintings and prints are bought as funds make possible . The Academy works hand in hand with the indus trial schools in the matter o f weaving and the f revival O native handicraft . In glancing over the list of eighty students enrolled the first

- tw o of year, I find twenty were men , five them

o ne . Japanese , and Chinese The roster is a

o ne of democratic , including names men and women from families far apart in the social

of scale . It seems to me the influence such an academy in the Territory is beyond com putation . One can only pray unceasingly that this o ne may not have to beg and scrape for the wherewithal to expand its manifold advantages to the community .

’ ii Hawa s mixed population , aided and

e abett d by her unequalled climatic conditions , are the means o f encouraging outdoor ex hi

of bitions various kinds , bearing upon historic

25 1 9 1 6 o b events . Balboa Day , September , , served in many Pacific lands , in Hawaii was combined with the first great Pan - Pac ific Union OUTDOOR EXHIBITIONS 8 7

celebration , which lengthened into several days o f veritable carnival , with pageantry that surpassed any that Honolulu had ever before

o f attempted . Guests from every country the Western Hemisphere attended . And each adopted nationality in its o wn way o f picturesqueness took part in the colourful

o f entertainment . The preponderance Oriental talent among the lines o f decoration insures here a magnificence of display in the matter o f floats and processions But of deeper

e r int est , and no less beauty, is the stately resurrection of Old- time Haw anan custom and costuming . These must be correct in every known detail , and an afternoon spent in watching the dramatic revival of savage royalty , its ceremonial and its sports , as well

o f as humbler occupations , is worth a voyage to the islands . That their forefathers and the rich traditions may not be forgotten by descendants and the world outside , associations have been formed ,

of such as Daughters Hawaii , Daughters and

o f Kaa m n Sons Hawaiian Warriors , the hu a u

Society , and others . These commemorate certain dates or events . The most conspicuous and K general is amehameha Day , a territorial 8 8 THE NEW HAWAII

holiday , when the native societies j oin in decorating their mighty hero ’ s impressive statue and conducting musical exercises in the

palace park , now the executive grounds . A

grand parade is a feature . The day is partici

sa pated in by many other orders , as , y, the Mystic Shriners and the fraternal body of

sa o f Foresters , to y nothing the Ad Club

and the Rotary Club . The programme o f Kamehameha Day also comprises an exciting

- regatta in the harbour, and horse racing at the

park .

’ son Kauikeouli Kamehameha s second , , who

reigned as Kamehameha III , also has his

’

o n . memorial day , which falls St Patrick s ,

March 1 7 . He is remembered for his unselfish

patriotism , the liberal constitution granted

of his people , and for his gift the right to hold lands in fee simple . The historian Alexander writes While there were grave faults in his character, there were also noble traits

He was true and steadfast in friendship . Duplicity and intrigue were foreign to his

o f nature . He always chose men tried integrity

Oflic es for responsible , and never betrayed

e of a s crets State, even in his most ungu rded moments .

OUTDOOR EXHIBITIONS 8 9 I cannot refrain from diverging to point

t of o u the qualifications such a man , whole

o f o ne Hawaiian , whom may speak lightly as a savage

1 9 20 saw A week in April , , the celebration o f a the Hawaiian Missions Centenni l , which was attended by many distinguished guests from the mainland and from foreign countries . f R . H . o On the second day H . the Prince

O ff Renown. Wales dropped in , the Although this memorable week beheld all the pageantry and sport that was possible to crowd into it , to many minds its greatest charm was in the more specific services devoted to the Cen tennial o f ex er itself, one the most beautiful cises being the song contests o f the churches from the various islands . The Hawaiians are boundless in their enthusiasm toward this ex f pression o themselves . ! Ah , it is a lovely land And it always brings me a thrill to read its praises , past and present .

on Hear what an American architect, his way

sa around the world , had to y During my drive about Oahu I came to f o f the belief, a ter a matter conclusion extend ing over thirty - five years Of travel in Europe o f and Asia, that the island Oahu is the most 9 0 THE NEW HAWAII

Y beautiful place on earth . o u have here th e o f home absolute beauty , and you Should ” conserve it .

for He was made indignant by its abuse , he went o n

One thing regarding Honolulu I would sa : - y is damnable that is , the three deck tenement on part Of the old gardens o f the in Princess Kaiulani at A ah au . This three deck fills me with amazement, disgust , and o f apprehension . This class construction is not desirable under any consideration , and should be stopped in this extraordinarily ” beautiful city .

In these latter days of the isles below the

’ Equator, one s heart is wrung by the deca dence of native peoples through the ills of — ” white civilization the white shadows o f

’ ’ ri infl Frederick O B en s naming . Then the u enza reaped its ghastly harvest . I should

so dread to step again in former haunts , tragically decimated are they o f their charming dwellers . Hawaii , however, fared not so badly ” - from the flu . All Hawaiians , though never since white occupation holding their o w n in fecundity, are far from presenting a puny

9 2 THE NEW HAWAII

fully expect to get to the South Seas because

of that. And there are others aboard who can tell yo u the same

o ne It saddens to read the cold , hard figures f o f the official census o 1 9 21 . The only race

registering a decrease is the native . The total

pure - Hawaiians are given as twenty - one thou

o f sand nine hundred and seven , a decrease

four thousand o ne hundred and thirty - four in

- ten years . The Asiatic Hawaiian has doubled ,

- however , and the Caucasian Hawaiian risen from eight thousand seven hundred and seventy - two to eleven thousand three hundred

- and forty eight . Total population of the 20 1 9 21 Territory, dated June , , is given as

two hundred and seventy - five thousand eight

- hundred and eighty four . Of this number o ne hundred and fourteen thousand eight hun

- s dred and seventy nine are Japanese, an increa e

of thirty - five thousand two hundred and four in a decade .

Kalanianaole Prince Johan Kuhio , for nearly twenty years delegate to Washington , not only

Haw anans grieved for the passing of the , but used the advantages o f his position for their w r e a o f his e elfa e . Th l st several years life wer KINGMAN ’ S ISLAND 9 3 devoted to studying ways and means to check

their decline , and he came to believe that in

the soil Of their natal isles lay the solution .

! The outcome was what is known as the R e

habilitation Proj ect . This has for its Obj ect that certain Government tracts be set aside

to provide home - sites for people o f Hawaiian blood as an aid to perpetuation and rebuilding

o f o n the race, and it was passed the ground that foreigners were taking up all availab le

land and crowding o ut the natives . The Act received a favourable report in the National

House of Representatives , but the Senate

turned it down . The local legislature then

altered its provisions , and it was ratified . The Prince j oined his fathers just at the f ’ beginning o his dream s realization . He had been selected as a member of the Commission

out that was to carry it , but death came before

he had served long . There is in course o f upbuilding a propo

sitio n o n a smaller scale , but pointing to

the same end . A Honolulu corporation has

secured the little Palmyra group , lying about nine hundred and sixty miles south - east of

o f a Oahu , looking to the development copr and other resources of this tiny district which 9 4 THE NEW HAWAII is really in the nature of a suburb to the city f and county o Honolulu . Palmyra was for some years entirely uninhabited , until a short

time ago, when the Company sent persons there

- to cut copra (meat o f the coco nut) for market . The Palmyra group consists o f a handful

o f set - palmy islets in a coral reef horseshoe ,

and is o ne o f five of these exquisite sea - garlands

lying in a string north - westerly from Christmas Island in 1 ° north latitude to Kingman ’ s 7 ° Reef in north , only nine hundred and thirty

o f - miles south Honolulu . Thirty three miles

’ - south east is Palmyra, next Great Britain s

Washington Island , Fanning, and Christmas slanting o ne hundred and two hundred miles

apart respectively . Although Palmyra and Kingman ’ s are not

o n o f infre the beaten trail ocean traffic , and quent communication can be held with the ” o n pioneers , the experiment Palmyra at

this writing looks promising . Hand in hand with the copra possibilities goes the splendid

fishing . The lagoon as well as the adjacent

waters outside the coral reef teem with fish , ’ which by the aid Of a fast boat of the navy s Eagle type could be placed on the Honolulu

- market within seventy two hours or less .

9 6 THE NEW HAWAII

Thurston does nothing by halves . He sees

’ in Kingman s lagoon a valuable mid - Pac ific harbour approximately ten miles in length , with a varying depth o f from fifteen to forty fi ve fathoms . The entrance to the horseshoe reef is but four fathoms , which was the depth of the gateway to Honolulu harbour before it was dredged to forty feet .

Mr . Thurston admits that the actual island

of is very small , but that the importance

’ Kingman s does not depend upon the size o f the island . The important thing is that there is room within this enclosed area for large ships without number . That the island itself can be enlarged, with the ample material

z close at hand , to a si e commensurate with the establishment of a station o f call and supplies for the need of all ships likely to come that

f r o n way o years . It is the direct steamship route from Panama to the Philippines , and from San Francisco and Honolulu to Samoa ,

New Zealand, and Australia . The two routes intersect at this juncture . Otherwise there is

O f no American port of call , or possibility n making o ne o the routes named , with the

o f exception Palmyra , where there is now no port and where there are grave Obstacles to KINGMAN ’ S ISLAND 9 7

overcome before creating one . Whether King man ’ s can be made a safe harbour is largely

an engineering question . Obj ections have been made o n the ground

’ that Kingman s , reef and island, are likely to be swept at any time by high seas . Mr .

Thurston counters by reporting his belief, based upon personal observation , that the island has never been so Swept . While there is no vegetation upon it , he found the entire surface covered with black vegetable mould , which would not be there otherwise . The — island lies at the apex of the atoll like the head of a comet , the two sides of the encircling

on reef the north and south sides of the lagoon , trailing o ff from each side o f the island to the

’ westward, like the comet s tail , to such distance that the westerly extremities were not in

- sight to the party . The normal south east trades were blowing, with the normal trade

- sea wind swell and chop , producing the usual heavy surf, rolling in from the north , east ,

o f and south , at the easterly apex the atoll ,

. so . where is the island Even , Mr Thurston

o n declares , the water in the lagoon , the fourth o r o f westerly side the island , was smooth ,

' even glassy . The foregoing , together with a G 9 8 THE NEW HAWAII

a further bulk of detailed observation , le ds the astute Thurston to believe that the force o f the outer waves is so dissipated by the reef that the island remains unmenaced . A final bastion in support of his argument is the

o f existence , in the most important parts the

o f r lagoon , the most marvellous g owth of living coral that he ever saw . Hawaii is very proud o f her coral gardens at Kaneohe and

- Waialua , where glass bottomed boats are kept f or . visitors . But Mr Thurston says those ” o f gardens , which are composed mostly

’ dead coral , are j okes compared with Kingman s , which are living and of the most delicate

so branching varieties , fragile that some are difficult even to gather without breaking .

Mr . Thurston sums up

There may be no immediate need for a harbour in this quarter Of the world ; but Pacific commerce and interests are developing so rapidly and extensively that there is no knowing when a harbour in this locality may be o f commercial and strategic importance . I submit that it is now proper policy for the

Government to take time by the forelock , and have a detailed survey and report made upon ’ ’ Kingman s island and harbour .

CHAPTER IV

THE PASSING OF PRINCE KUHIO

HE death of Prince Jonah Kuhio Kalanian

o n 7 1 9 22 o ne aole January , , left but male

o f — Kalakaua survivor his line , a nephew young

Kawananako a , a prince, with his two Sisters , entirely lacking royal prospects . He is the so n o f Prince David and Princess Abigail

Kawananakoa o f , and is a citizen the United

States . At present he is an American school boy, receiving an education both in his natal isles and in the States . Prince Kuhio was raised in the gay court

Kalakaua of King , which merry monarch was renowned as having travelled more extensively than any contemporary crowned head . Your own Prince David , it would seem , bids fair to

’ surpass Kalakaua s record Although o f royal

’ o f Kalakaua s family, nephew queen , Kapio

of lani , and descended from the last king the

o f islands Kauai and Niihau , Kuhio was not f a lineal inheritor o f the throne o Hawaii . 1 00

1 02 THE NEW HAWAII kaliani succeeded to her troubled and brief

a . 1 herit ge That was in 8 9 3. Had the monarchy not been overthrown Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole would in all likelihood have succeeded his aunt as ruler o f the Hawaiian kingdom . In the cataclysm that ousted Queen

Liliuokalani , the Prince was unavoidably all for the royal party, and became involved in

to a plot restore his aunt to the throne . Mr . Thurston writes

The next time o ur tracks crossed was in 1 8 9 3 , when , after the unsuccessful royalist o f of revolt , a number the participants , whom

o ne . Kuhio was , were imprisoned A test case was brought to invalidate all of the con v ic tions s , Kuhio being the petitioner in habea f corpus proceedings . I acted as counsel o r the Republic of Hawaii in resisting the applica

a . tion . The writ was not gr nted

The conspirators were put in the Oahu penitentiary ; and fo r about a twelvemonth the tenderly nurtured young scion laboured in convict stripes . His sweetheart, a high

Kaleiw ohi Kaauw ai chiefess named Elizabeth , remained true , and upon his release they were married and departed for the great centres THE PASSING OF PRINCE KUHIO 1 03

f - o Europe . From his African big game hunt

ex c e ing, the Prince was able to show an p ll tio na y good bag o f trophies . The pair had not been back long when the Prince entered the Republican lists and was elected as official representative o f the Terri tory of Hawaii in the Congress of the United

Kaw anana States , his brother, Prince David

o n koa, having been the defeated candidate

w as - the Democratic ticket . Kuhio re elected fo r - ten successive two year terms , proving

fo r his extreme popularity , there were bound to be political enemies , who spent large sums to down him . His status at Washington was

o ne : an unique an American citizen , member o f o f the House Representatives , he was at the same time a dusky prince of royal lineage and upbringing . He became widely and affection ” ately known as Prince Cupid , and I , for o ne , am able to vouch for his social grace and

‘ quick wit in conversation and repartee . He possessed a distinct and decided mind o f his

o w n o ne . , and a logical in debate Added to the dignity and courtliness o f his manners f i was an engaging air o d ffidenc e . I am borne

o ut . : by Mr Thurston , who says His was ” an engaging presence . Showing the temper 1 04 THE NEW HAWAII o f e the man , I further quote from the sam authority

’ It SO happened that during Ku hio s long term in Congress we sharply differed upon a of number of questions , and neither us ever hesitated to speak his mind on the point in issue , or concerning each other . During all ff this time , however, political di erences in no way ever interfered with our personal friendly relations . Whether such relations are usual between political opponents in other lands , n t I do o know . But I am inclined to believe that the kindly atmosphere o f Hawaii and the of genial , friendly character her sons and daughters have had much to do with the fact that although , unhappily , the fates have at times brought me into sharp political opposition o f Haw anans to a number the leading , there has — — been no o r but temporary interference with cordial personal friendships . As an example, 1 9 1 4 about , among other Republicans , I ’ Ku hio s opposed renomination to Congress , s giving rea ons therefor in an open letter, at the same time giving full credit for his personal good qualities . I quote what I then said o f him my opinion now as it w as then ! ‘ Kuhio 1 s a man among men ; a

good sport . When younger he bucked the line with the best of them at football .

1 06 THE NEW HAWAII he has continuously received the large maj ority o f white votes , as against his white rival for f ’ the office O delegate . A day o r so after publication of the fore ”

Mr. going letter , Thurston continues , while walking along King Street I heard a hail from

across the street Hullo , Kakina Upon saw looking up , I Kuhio advancing across the

street with a smiling face . Upon reaching me he grasped my hand and gave it a hearty

shake, saying I want to thank you fo r the nice things ’ you said about me in your letter . I m not much struck o n going back to Washington ’ o f anyway , and I don t care how many you oppose me if they do it in the decent ’ way yo u have done ; but I m still in the game

While his sentiment and first consideration

of were toward the fortunes his people , Cupid was always active in matters concerning the

of welfare neighbouring Pacific lands , and served as honorary Vice - president of the great

- Pac ific o f . Pan Union, which more anon

Shortly before his death , he had announced that at the end o f his then present term he would conclude his service as delegate . As he saw it THE PASSING OF PRINCE KUHIO 1 07

I can best serve the ends o f my own race by acting as a member o f the Hawaiian Re habilitation Act Commission . I feel that I have done my duty to my country and my people in the past twenty years in Washington . I want to use what knowledge and influence I have in making the Hawaiian home laws a success . I succeeded in getting the Rehabilita tion Act through Congress , and will continue o n o ut o f to work the carrying the law . The rest depends upon the Hawaiians themselves

His doom descended quite unexpectedly , in the midst of an illness that had not been viewed with immediate alarm , though he had been ailing for some time . He was accorded a State funeral Similar to that o f their late

Kalakau a maj esties , and Liliuokalani . As d soon as word had gone forth that he was ead ,

’ the Hawaiians planned a nine - days death watch by relays of the various societies . The tragic pomp o f those days has been unequalled in these islands except by that maintained for their deposed queen , Liliuokalani . And cer

’ tainl y the delegate s was unique , as was his

of ffi tenure o ce in Washington, among Obsequies

o f of members Congress . After being o n View to family and friends

o f for eleven hours , at the stroke midnight, 1 08 THE NEW HAWAII lighted by a young moon and flare o f native

- o f w as kukui nut torches , the body the Prince

his k carried from new home at Waiki i ,

’ Pualeilani o f (Garden heaven s flowers) ,

- Kaw aih ao to historic coral built Church . A week later, with the same weird ceremonial under the moon , the casket was removed to

o f l the throne room Iolani Pa ace , now the executive mansion . There, where once he had stood on the dais with his reigning aunt and

’ o f uncle, what was left Hawaii s last titular prince lay in state in the hall o f kings and

of his o f queens race, with the portraits his o wn line and of the Kamehameha dynasty w looking do n upon him . The funeral and

on interment took place the following day , m Sunday , at the royal mausoleu in Nuuanu f Valley . Arrangements were in the hands o f certain of his close riends , and representatives o f the State , working together, Hawaiian and

h l m . . haole , to do honour Governor Wallace R

Farrington , as well as the army and navy heads

o n stationed Oahu , personally called upon the

re widow, Princess Elizabeth , who was also a

c i ient o f . p messages from many lands She , who had held her husband ’ s hand during the l O ast hours , did not falter in required bservance

1 1 0 THE NEW HAWAII caring less concerning the hundreds Of careful details that go into its faultless etiquette . Nothing in history shows more unswerving

o f etiquette than the Hawaiian Court Old . The attendance to detail was undoubtedly true in

o f the greatest degree the present occurrence , for the Hawaiians in fullest sense knew that

o f the passing Kuhio was the closing act , that the last vestige of their native rule was pau in (finished) . The sable curtain was rolling

x or b l e a y down . Only in reverent mimicry could anything resembling such a drama be staged again in the annals of their diminishing race . a Each transfer of the royal remains , alw ys in the dead of night , was witnessed by thou

of sands , all nationalities and callings , massed

o f ffi behind lines soldiery . The co n was

- - flanked by pall bearers , kahili bearers , torch

o f e s o f bearers , and by members the ord r Kamehameha and the Daughters and Sons o f

o f . Warriors , which the Prince was chief And during the three - times - three days preceding the burial , watchers clad in the splendid feather emblems that were the insignia of royalty and nobility in the past , stood guard about the

kahilis on bier . Two rows of towered each THE PASSING OF PRINCE KUHIO 1 1 1

o ne side of it , and watcher was always stationed

at the head , waving a smaller kahili above the

quiet face . There was at all hours a subdued threnody of Singing and chanting by the native

societies . Familiar as I have become with Hawanan

custom and the State symbols , easily as I

o n am able to Visualize what went , still I am largely dependent for my knowledge Of this event upon letters and the pages o f Honolulu

newspapers , more especially the articles signed

by Mr . A . P . Taylor . In Kaw aiahao Church a continuous line o f people passed before the earthly form o f the

Prince . The line was kept in motion by uniformed members of the National Guard and the Kamehameha school . The body was

’ draped in the Prince s o wn ancestral feather

o f cloak , with other priceless specimens these regal ahuula about the casket o f native ” koa mahogany, the wood . The casket was made , in a bygone style, by the firm who had attended royalty in Hawaii for over half a century .

f o ne Floral Of erings , including from President

Harding, poured in until the church , pulpit

o f to choir, was a mass fragrant colour ; and 1 1 2 THE NEW HAWAII

varieties o f native flowers and vines beloved

by the Prince , arrived by special envoys from

the other islands . Many Hawaiians in the

- slow moving queue paused to wail , and tears

fell like rain . According to custom their faces as they passed Should always be toward the

dead . Never must their backs be turned upon

o ne so who lies still in the wood . Much of the time the widow remained seated near the

head, Often with her hand before her eyes to conceal emotion as some wail o r poignant

o f strain music , dear to her memories , struck too deep . She mourned in pure white through

o t u the difficult days . In addition to local

soloists and choruses , the best singers and choirs from other ports in the Territory were

heard . A memorial service was held , with the

Akaiko o f Kawaiah ao Reverend Akana , pastor

Offi . Church , ciating

’ As early as eight o clock o n the night

I olani preceding the removal to Palace , it was necessary for the National Guard to tighten

their cordon about the church , which already

held its capacity of mourners and sympathizers .

Only the choir loft was reserved , and from it

poured softly the harmony of voice and string,

while an old man chanted .

1 1 4 THE NEW HAWAII

The tall kahilis were unstepped from their standards by stalwart Hawaiians . High chiefs lifted the casket , weighing a ton and a half, from the bier and bore it o ut and down the long descent o f steps to the black - draped catafalque . Then boomed the minute guns ,

fired by a battery Of the National Guard , and when the catafalque emerged through the o ld Kauikeouli gate into King Street the minute gun refrain was taken up by guns of the United

States army , and firing prevailed until the

Prince was lowered into his last home . The catafalque was drawn by many

Hawaiians , mostly recruited from among steve

oola dores (p ) , a service they have always claimed ; from time immemorial no lower animal has been allowed to convey a ruler o r prince o f Hawaii fromthe palace to the grave .

These powerful pullers wear scarlet shirts , and attach themselves to the black and white ropes o f the sepulchral car with strength and pride . The procession was directed by a picturesque

on figure horseback , Captain Robert Parker

Waipa , once member of the Household Guards , who has performed this function for many deceased alii of the Kalakaua dynasty . Pre ceding the body o f the last leader of their THE PASSING OF PRINCE KUHIO 1 1 5

o f race , walked a detachment the common people ; and this was as it Should be . Not only was Jonah Kuhio Kalanianaole a prince o f o f Hawaii , but he was a prince the people , and for them exerted himself from first to last . And fittingly upon this his last narrow house of so native koa, soon to be engulfed from the sunlight , reposes above his heart a silver shield bearing the inscription Ke Alii Makaa ” o f inana The Chief the Citizens . Some of the serried thousands who viewed it may have seen in the cortege little except the persistence o f an almost savage Show that meant nothing to them . But the honour shown to the last of the alii by his people in

o f this closing chapter his national life, and

o f . theirs , was from their heart hearts Most o f the spectators saw in the procession of sorrowing Hawaiians only love expressed in forms to them fully comprehended , and realized the reverent symbolism underneath the out

no r to o ward blazonry . None was too high l o d. humble to do reverence , none too One

o f - woman ninety eight , Kamaka Stillman , o f white and noble Hawaiian blood , known in

o f old every passing court the monarchy , took her place among those who walked the miles , 1 1 6 THE NEW HAWAII

most of them ascending, from palace to mausoleum . Her spirit bore her right sovranly, and She did not seem to suffer from the un

sk wonted exertion . And in the y above the ancient dame , how strangely purred the fabu lous aeroplanes in battle array At length into the mausoleum grounds up Nunanu Valley the long train o f Hawaiian societies paced , followed by the sombre cata falqu e Flowers had been arranged in pro fusion around the monument over the Kalakaua f crypt . The entrance was covered with leis o

’ the Prince s favourite hala blossom and the fragrant mailé vine . Near by stood the

Hawaiian band , and among the spectators was the aged conductor, Henri Berger, for forty years bandmaster at every function o f note in Hawaii . I am happy to record his 1 9 22 presence , because in my edition , through

. For error, I announced his passing which I now humbly apologize to him .

b of Malulani Ka ea , custodian the mausoleum , received the royal dead as he and his family before him had received royal dead these many

i - decades . The honorary pa l bearers stood o n o ne o f side the entrance to the crypt , the

Kamehameha lodge opposite . In front was

1 1 8 THE NEW HAWAII faces are dark with sorrow and a great con cern for the safe conduct o f their nearly superhuman burden . Just above , at the

- entrance , is the white gowned chief mourner,

o n her hand her heart , and gazing almost fearsomely down upon the incredible spectacle o f her companion o f years being laid forever away from her sight . But her terrible trial was not over . She must follow down into the sepulchre .

to Earth to earth , ashes to ashes , dust ” dust , intoned the Bishop . ” Ch OlI‘ Abide With Me, sang the , with melting voices .

And the benediction was pronounced . But the final invocation was appropriately

r in the Hawaiian tongue, a fervent praye raised by the native orator and preacher ,

Reverend Stephen Desha . Then the wailing

o ut broke afresh , and again the chanting Of

’ the ancient women . The Princess s tears flowed unchecked as her party pressed about in sympathy and helpfulness . The chanting was quickly superseded by the last queen ’ s

! ” - Oe plaintive love song, Aloha , from the

Hawaiian band Then the national anthem ,

H k of awaii Ponoi, closed an event the li e THE PASSING OF PRINCE KUHIO 1 1 9

which will never again take place upon earth . There was no Vive le roi ! to follow the

inevit passing of the Prince who , but for the ” o f able white man , might have been king this adorable and fast disappearing people .

o f Kalakauas The tomb the , and the tomb o f the Kamehamehas beyond , will lie silent and undisturbed until the last trump . CHAPTER V

— — PRINCES S AB IGAIL KING LI HOLI HO THE KAHILI

to 1 9 1 9—1 9 0 ND now return to my 2 winter . When we met Princess David (Abigail)

Kawananako a o n sh e the dock that day , said sh e or had come home to stay . F years sh e

or had lived in the Eastern capitals , sometimes in California . Once I had Visited her in lovely

sh e inten San Diego . And has made good her f tion , busying herself with af airs in Honolulu . Vividly there comes back to me the great reception given by her at her own house the

of . day landing Owing to another engagement , f I arrived in the latter part o the festivities .

Th e - sumptuous beauty , in a princess like

oloku of h black charmeuse and lace, crowned

sat and garlanded with golden ilima, in state near o ne end of her enormous Vine - screened

of lanai , still receiving the homage her loyal people . All official Honolulu had dropped in as well . An orchestra played incessantly , but unobtrusively . Its haunting airs threaded 1 20

1 22 THE NEW HAWAII o f er old h slight inclination to an courtier, as sh e answered a question I had put

Am I tired I am not . I rested all the way from San Francisco to Honolulu in pre

aratio n — p for this day and night Ah , I want — my children to know you Kalakaua ! She raised her musical voice a little . Bring your sisters They were representative Haw anans in appearance , the brother and two girls . Kala

’ kaua , Prince Cupid s nephew before men tio ned of , about sixteen , had the seeming other dusky princes I had met in the island world of Polynesia . He bore the same lofty

o f sweetness expression and manner , and

’ erect ease o f carriage that made one s eyes

follow him as he moved about . The two

Ka iolani young princesses , p and Liliuokalani ,

were equally arresting . Despite the Caucasian

blood inherited from their mother, training in

fashionable Schools , and the latest word in

summer modes , there was preserved an elusive

wildness in their unfathomable eyes . I had seen the same untamable thing in the old

’ queen s regard o f a dozen years earlier

although they are not related . The very pose

a s of their he d , from which unruly curls seemed PRINCESS ABIGAIL 1 23

o ut o f continually springing bonds , emphasized this wholly charming islands effect .

o r Outland culture none , the Polynesian is almost never socially at fault . One cannot believe except by seeing ; and even then can

’ hardly credit one s senses . I have for years harboured a grudge against the playwright o f an extraordinarily popular play in which the

auche Hawaiian girl is made to do g things , such

o f fin er- as drinking out a g bowl , and not know f f ing how to handle the train o her gown . Pif le

fin er- The Hawaiians used g bowls , beautiful carved ones at that, before we emerged from — the woods ; and as for trailing draperies go and look for yourselves . The original holoku , the Mother Hubbard introduced by the mission

o ne aries , was so awful that no but a native female could have lent it grace and stateliness .

I have yet to behold an ungraceful Polynesian .

Gorgeous and kingly people they are , and must always have been . I am minded of the account o f 1 8 28 a reverend missionary in , who had an eye for beauty . He was describing the last day of a long native revel , in which figured

Lih olih o King Kamehameha II , , and his

Kam am alu— queen , more particularly the queen 1 24 THE NEW HAWAII

The c ar of state in which sh e joined the processions passing in different directions c o n sisted o f an elegantly modelled whaleboat fastened firmly to a platform o f wickerwork

o n thirty feet long by twelve wide , and borne o f the heads seventy men . The boat was lined , and the whole platform covered , first with imported broadcloth , and then with beautiful patterns of tapa o r native cloth o f a variety o f figures and rich colours . The men support ing the whole were formed into a solid body, so that the outer rows only at the sides and ends were seen and all forming these wore the splendid scarlet and yellow cloaks and helmets o f which you have read accounts ; and than which , scarcely anything can appear more superb . The only dress o f the queen was a ’ a u o r scarlet silk p native petticoat , and a f coronet o feathers . She was seated in the middle of the boat and screened from the sun by an immense Chinese umbrella o f scarlet damask , richly ornamented with gilding, fringe , and tassels , and supported by a chief standing malo behind her, in a scarlet or girdle , and feather helmet . On one quarter o f the boat stood Karim oku Kalaim oku o n ( ) , the Prime Minister, and the Naih e other , the national orator, both also o f e in malos scarlet Silk and helmets of f athers , and each bearing a kahili or feathered staff of

KING LI HOLIHO 1 25

State near thirty feet in height . The upper kahilis o f parts of these were scarlet feathers , so ingeniously and beautifully arranged o n artificial branches attached to the staff as to form cylinders fifteen or eighteen inches in diameter and twelve to fourteen feet long the lower parts o r handles were covered with alternate rings of tortoise - shell and ivory o f ” the neatest workmanship and highest polish .

King Lih olih o had a very engaging streak o f recklessness that more than once spread e consternation amongst his following . As onc , 1 8 21 in , when he left Honolulu in an open boat for a short trip to Ewa . The boat was crowded with thirty attendants , including two

. o ff women But when Puuloa, he refused to

o t put in to the lagoon , and kept u into the

’ big water around Barber s Point . Then , with lordly disregard o f the fear and protests o f

o r his entourage , without water provisions , he set o f the course for Kauai , ninety miles strong

a s he d wind and ea. Here is your compass ! ” he cried to the helmsman , flinging up his right hand , the

- fingers spread . Steer by this And if you return with the boat , I shall swim to Kauai , alone 1 26 THE NEW HAWAII

Good seamanship and luck vindicated him ,

o ff and they arrived safely Waimea , Kauai ,

of after a night peril . And to think that the measles Should have had their way with such ’ a Nature s leader as that , and such a queen as his Kam am alu ! Both were brought back dead a few years later from England o n Lord ’ l a B onde . Byron s frig te , But measles has always been one of the deadliest germs to tropical peoples

’ o f ii None Hawa s Olden regalia , aside from the woven feather mantles , has impressed me so much as the kahili . I shall quote a para graph from the body o f my earlier Hawaii

tw o r book , in order to introduce parag aphs by others Their handles are inlaid cunningly with

- of turtle shell and ivory and pearl , some them ten to thirty feet in height , topped by brilliant black o r coloured feather cylinders fifteen o r 1 8 22 ne o f eighteen inches in diameter . In , o the second consignment of missionaries went into ecstasies over these feather devices o f Hawaii royalty ‘ SO far as the feather mantles , helmets , kahilis f coronets , and had an ef ect , I am not fearful o f extravagance in the use of the s l epithet p endid. I doubt whether there is a

1 28 THE NEW HAWAII disfi urem ents g , sustained easily the great weight of these towering plumes ; but the modern bearer, stranger alike to the strength

o f and Virtue his predecessors , has to call in the aid o f stout straps of imported leather to bear the much smaller kahilis o f the modern civilized days . CHAPTER VI

- — THE PAN PACIFIC UNION SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH COUN CIL -COMMERCIAL CONFERENCE

ONOLULU outskirts presented a very different appearance from my first or even latest memories of it . More suburban homes

o n shone out Tantalus and Pacific Heights , and up the wooded valleys . Nearer, Kaimuki was become almost a city by itself. Those red

o n lands of Kaimuki the Side Of the gentle , seaward - tipped bowl that holds Honolulu seem always to be brushed by the ravelled

o f artic u ends rainbow scarves . They were p larly beautiful that last year Jack and I

so swam much at Waikiki . Never, in the

of minds living men , due to continuous storms , had there been such irises over Oahu . We would lie , Jack and I , floating on the undulating

o f green hills water beyond the inshore surges ,

o r bathing u very souls in heavenly colour . To maukaf o ut o f deep blue skies pearled

Iollin o ut o f with g clouds , the warm , palpi

M u i wa o nta n rd . 1 29 1 30 THE NEW HAWAII tant chaos of reflected sunset over against the eastern mountains , came the miracle the rainbows , formless , generous , streaming

o f banners immaterial loosely banded prisms , frayed with melting j ewels , that softly drenched the ruby and emerald vale and foothills . If I should have to live in a house for the rest

Of my days , I should surely call upon my

’ o f - memory Oahu s opal tapestried skies , and dwell within that memory .

o n or l To me , life an island , among is ands , means a large proportion o f life upon the

o f water . Hence I greatly miss , in this day

o f - petrol , the gladsome sight sailing yachts around about Hawaii . One can only dare hope that the ever - thrilling Old sport will have its day again . There is none to surpass it , especially in such seas as these , with such ports to visit .

Perhaps the biggest thing that has h ap pened to Honolulu— and the Pacific countries — generally is the development o f Alexander

’ - i c Hume Ford s Pan Pac fi Club . It will be remembered that as far back as 1 9 07 Jack London had something to do with the founding

o f . our 1 9 1 5 . this proj ect On return in , Mr Ford

1 32 THE NEW HAWAII

the Territory of Hawaii has forged ahead , using its best brains to further the means o f international peace and the Pan - Pac ific Club grows apace . It is incorporated as an inter national body O f trustees ; the consuls in Honolulu from all Pacific lands are o n its

o f o f board management , and the heads all

Pacific governments , from the President Of the

of United States to the King Siam , are among its officers and active workers . Among its branches may be named those in Japan ,

Canada , Australia , New Zealand , and the Philippines ; while the zeal o f its members is

of steadily creating new branches . Part their purpose is to maintain in all Pacific regions bureaux o f information and education regard ing matters of concern to the various peoples therein to disseminate to the world informa tion o f every kind of progress and opportunity in Pacific territory ; to promote the comfort and interests o f visitors ; to aid the various

c o - races to operate in holding local fairs , raising products , creating home manufactured goods , and in owning real estate for the erection o f buildings for housing exhibits ; to suppo rt a Pan - Pac ific Commercial Museum

— so and Art Gallery and so forth and on , in THE PAN - PACIFIC UNION 1 33 all departments looking to the steady progress

of the main movement . The first O fficial headquarters o f the Union

were at the University Club , in the room

where Jack London first addressed its nucleus .

o n 1 9 1 7 And in this room , Balboa Day , , Finn

’ rolic h s o f Haakon F bust Jack London , 1 9 1 5 modelled from life in , was unveiled ;

i - wh le at Waikiki , beneath the date palm that marks the site of our erstwhile brown tent cottage , a Jack London memorial fountain is talked of. Although Mr . Ford was the dis

o f o f coverer this New Pacific , and founder the organization whose name now rings from shore to shore around the Western Ocean , humbly he still insists that without his friend ’ s help and moral support it would have been a longer, stronger pull to bring about the present

Situation . Which is

o f n That Honolulu , Oahu , Territory Hawa ,

- at the very cross roads of the Pacific , has become what might be called the racial experiment station of the Western Hemisphere .

In place o f the weekly pan - race luncheons established years ago by Mr . Ford and Mr .

c o - Thurston , now to further operation , in view of the common weal of all countries repre 1 34 THE NEW HAWAII

of one sented , and that the adoptive , Hawan , ! monthly dinners are attended by leaders o f

the Chinese , Japanese , and American races ,

twelve picked men from each , comprising

f o f editors , consuls , and other O ficials the

Territory . The discussions are understood

to for not be publication , and are therefore

o f a freedom and frankness , to quote Lorrin

A . Thurston , never before experienced . One triumphant consequence of this policy of

uninterrupted conference was a settling, by

o f the Japanese themselves , the delicate and

long - troublesome question o f the Japanese

- o n language schools in Hawaii . After e of the

- Pac ific Pan Union meetings , they drew up a

Bill , which was introduced into the legislature , and has become a law . Another burning topic has been the shabby treatment o f citizens Of Oriental parentage

born under the Stars and Stripes , who are ,

o f therefore , Americans . Wise adjustment the relations among the many peoples whose territories margin the Pacific is a task for

of statesmen , nay , for seers . The attitude the

- Pac ific o f Pan Union is , that recognition recip ’ ro c al rights and duties toward one s alien

o n o f neighbour, and a general desire the part

1 36 THE NEW HAWAII mony and Americanization of aliens and citizens o f alien descent ; to organize adult evening schools for education in English , in

Americanization , and general knowledge ; to seek the remedying o f living conditions in

sur tenement houses , and improving of the roundings of the rising generation in their

’ individual homes ; to create children s play grounds . Aside from the humanitarian aspect of these

o f intentions , to quote from a report the

o . C mmittee of Nine , of which Mr Thurston is chairman , public policy demands that we bind these citizens to us , and encourage their loyalty and c o - operation in the solution of the

for many puzzling problems that face us , which

no t task they are peculiarly fitted . They are

’ subjects for Americanization . They are already American by birth , by law , by inclina tion , by sentiment , by residence, by service , by participation in the burdens and responsi ili i b t es incident to American citizenship .

- z o f Our fellow citi ens Oriental descent proved , during the late war, to be as loyal and patriotic in all respects as those of other race origin in service in the army , participation in Red Cross , and other servic es and contributions . We then THE PAN - PACIFIC UNION 1 37

freely accepted their services and contributions , and voluntarily recognized their loyalty to the

Government and their value to the community . To discriminate now against them in any

of o r manner, upon the sole ground their race their ancestors , is ungrateful , contrary to basic American principles of justice and fair play ; humiliating alike to the subjects o f the dis crimination and to other American citizens , wh o feel that American honour is thereby being impugned . But the Pan - Pac ific Union reaches o ut from this direct drive to advance a mutually

- beneficial inter racial amity . There is , for

- Pac ific instance , the Pan Scientific Council , an outgrowth of the first Conference in Honolulu

1 9 20 . in August, This was called by the Union and made possible by Mr . Ford , who secured a territorial appropriation of followed by a Congressional appropriation from 9 000 Washington of $ , and , next , appropria tions from Australia , New Zealand , and China .

The Conference headquarters , through the f o . . Mc Carth courtesy Governor C J y, were removed to the throne - room and senate

o f chamber the Executive building, the Iolani

o f Palace the monarchy . Two or three times 1 38 THE NEW HAWAII

- Pac ific a year, Pan assemblies of some sort are held there .

d o f These conferences , the resolute ream

Mr . Ford , have been materialized by the aid f o . o f Director Herbert E Gregory , the Bishop

c o - Museum , who , with a few workers , organized

o ut the Conference body , and sent over a hundred invitations to prominent scientists

to and research institutions , for delegates consider the desirability , and ways and means , for exploration o f the Pacific area o n lines o f

Anthropology , Biology , Botany , Entomology,

o Geography , Meteorology, Seismol gy , and

of Volcanology , and allied subj ects . Some the main purposes o f the Scientific Research

: ni Council are To orga ze, create and conduct an institute Of learning that will gather and spread information o f a scientific character acting for and c o - operating with the Pan

Pac ific Union , in conducting its scientific

c conferences . To correspond with scientifi bodies throughout the world , but more par tic ularly with those interested in the solution o f the scientific problems connected with the

To c - Pacific region . o operate at all times with the Union in obtaining from the legislature and commercial bodies , as well as from

1 40 THE NEW HAWAII

’ the programme for a Pan - Pac ific Educators 1 9 21 Congress at Honolulu , in August , , and issuing a summons to more than a score of f countries encircling the globe . The scope o interests for the attention o f such an educational congress are best indicated by certain tentative n questio s suggested by the State Department , such as What are the outstanding educational prob lems of each country 9 What should be the ideals of education in each country

( a) As to preparation for citizenship (b) As to preparation for the vocations ( e) As to preparation for individual 9 development , including health

How are these ideals affected by forms of government and by the social ideals o f the respective countries How affected by geographical conditions , including natural resources What elements should be included in the education o f these countries to serve inter national relations

( a) Commercial relations ! (19 ) Political relations THE PAN - PACIFIC UNION 1 4 1 What is taught in the schools of each country in regard to the other countries o f — the group as to resources , industries , com C merce , people , ivilization , ideals , government , etc . !

( a) What does a child know about these matters at the end o f the elementary school period ! At the end of the high school period ! At the end of the college period ! (b) What attitude o f mind toward th e other countries will the child have as a result ( c ) TO what extent is it desirable to teach the language and literature o f given coun tries in the others By what means may the schools and other educational agencies assure the continuity and still further strengthen the cordial relations existing among the countries Of this group

The adult element is taken account o f with regard to the extension of education through community activities and otherwise ; also looking toward research from the standpoint o f ul - practical res ts in agriculture , home making , industry , commerce , and so on . 1 4 2 THE NEW HAWAII That the purely commercial consideration is not lacking in the schemes of the Pan

Pac ific out leaders , is borne by plans which

of enlisted the attention Franklin K . Lane,

- of first honorary vice president the Union , in a Commercial Conference at Honolulu . Good ” o u of fortune to y , brave man big Visions , he wrote shortly before his death , to Alexander

o f Hume Ford , whose Official status is that

- secretary director . What an interest there ” is . o n. now in the South Seas , Mr Lane went

Never before have I seen anything like it . Get people to your islands— boat service

’ that s all you need . Then they will become the focus Of Pacific progress . In furtherance o f publicity for the manifold

o f ambitions the Union , a Press Conference was called , as a department of the Press

o f Congress the world . In fact , that World

Congress , representing forty nations , was con f vened at Honolulu in the autumn o 1 9 21 . To my regret, I was unable to accept an invita tion to be there . One tangible result Of the Scientific Con ference has been that every state bordering the vast bowl of the Pacific has been aroused to the conservation and extension of the

THE NEW HAWAII

E a WH REAS , it is known that many v luable

- species of marine mammals , such as fur seal ,

sea- - otters , elephant seals and whale , and many

Species of important food fishes , such as salmon

and halibut , formerly occurred in the Pacific in such vast numbers as to constitute the objects o f fisheries whose annual products were worth more than o ne hundred million

dollars , and of WHEREAS , nearly all those great natural

resources have been seriously depleted , many of them even to commercial extinction, through greed and short - sightedness and ill - considered

fishery methods , and

WHEREAS , it is known that small remnants of fur - seal and sea- otter herds and small numbers o f whale and of other commercially

valuable species still remain in certain places , and S o f WHEREA , the rapid recovery the Alaska

- s fur eal herd , in the short period of ten years , from complete commercial ruin to an annual production of more than one million five o f hundred thousand dollars , as a result the

- of 1 9 1 1 international fur seal treaty , demon strates conclusively the wonderful recuperative power of such depleted natural resources o f

c o - the sea under international operation , and justifies the belief that other depleted fisheries c an be rehabilitated through similar c o - opera io n am on g the nations concerned, and THE PAN - PACIFIC UNION 1 4 5

WHEREAS , it is conservatively estimated that these resources when rehabilitated will yield to the world a regular annual product

f n - o more than o e half billion dollars in value , therefore be it

- Pac ific RESOLVED , that the Pan Com

! m erc ial Conference strongly recommends that o n the various countries bordering , or interested

in , the Pacific , take such steps as may be necessary to bring about an International Treaty fo r the restoration o f the vanishing resources o f the Pacific to their former abun

dance , that they may be maintained for all time as the Objects o f great commercial o f fisheries , which they are easily capable, and be it further RESOLVED that this Commercial Con ference recommends that the governments of the countries bordering on the Pacific enter into correspondence for the purpose o f estab lishing an International Commission for the o f scientific study the biology, physics , and o f o f chemistry the Pacific , in the interest the restoration , proper utilization , and conservation ” o f its vanishing natural resources .

It sometimes happens that Government appropriations to the Pan - Pac ific Union are in blanket form ; the Union to appropriate the funds to cover expenses Of either educa K 1 4 6 THE NEW HAWAII tional o r commercial councils , the scientific coming under the latter head, though scientists may be invited to attend the commercial meetings . And at the legislative conference , those scientists who are familiar with the depredations in Pacific waters by unscientific ,

s of commercial fi hermen , may be sure a warm welcome ; for the various conferences are fashioned to overlap and c o - operate as much as possible . It is prophesied that the sages of the Union will not rest until they have set in operation international fishery laws for one whole Pacific area .

The Pan- P ci c B lle n for 1 9 22 a fi u ti December, , throws light upon the enormous task set by the unremitting activity of its Director . While

o f he is a born leader and creator ideals ,

Mr . Ford has the wide practical sense to

enlist big, practical men in his tremendous

o f enterprise . The present Governor the

of Territory , Wallace B . Farrington , is , course ,

fi ureh ead President of the Union . He is no g

o ne o f either , but the livest citizens in the ’ o f Pacific , as well as proprietor Honolulu s

The Star Bulletin. evening paper, Just before 1 9 22 the Commercial Conference in October, ,

Ford rushed from Washington to Japan , stop

1 4 8 THE NEW HAWAII

choose almost at random from the many resolutions

o f WHEREAS , the use Opium and its derivatives is one o f the greatest deterrents

to trade , commerce , and industry , be it S o n RE OLVED , that this Conference goes record as Opposing the export or transporta

tion through the mails or otherwise , from one Pacific country to another Pacific country Of o r morphine , opium , cocaine, kindred drugs ,

except as medical supplies , and urges that each Pacific government make and enforce laws forbidding such export or transmission ” o f drugs . for RESOLVED , that it would be the best interests o f commerce in the Pacific if the Pacific countries would adopt a uniform

decimal currency . S WHEREA , the methods followed by Great Britain and the United States for establishing and maintaining news communications with

dominions , and dependencies , and territories , by providing the necessary facilities at an

- extremely low word rate would , if adopted by

o f c o - the nations the Pacific in operation , secure a system of intercommunication with ” each other fully as satisfactory . This Conference is o f opinion that the nations adjoining the Pacific should hold an o f re re international conference , consisting p THE PAN - PACIFIC UNION 1 4 9

sentatives of the shipping and trading interests

o f of Pacific lands , for the purpose studying the question O f the conservation o f shipping

o n if the Pacific Ocean , with a View, possible , to reducing the serious economic waste in ” ocean tonnage now existing . o f RESOLVED , the cinema industry the world has become a powerful agency for the distribution o f information in foreign lands followed by a strong plea for authentic film s and that the delegation from each Pacific country be requested to secure the appoint ment of some fitting person to correspond with the Pan - Pac ific Union and the other members o f this committee , that the work necessary to carry the wishes o f this Conference into f ef ect , be rigorously prosecuted and con

cluded .

The cotton industry in China also received the attention of the Conference .

The periodic flooding of that portion o f the

of East Central Plain China , known as the im Hwai Valley, which constitutes a most portant section o f this great grain - producing

- ff si region , causes losses in food stu s every x o r seven years amounting to ten million tons o r more , with serious toll of life , both human and c it domesti animal , and famine with s 1 50 THE NEW HAWAII

tt h nt a e da horrors . The Conference expressed itself thereupon

o f WHEREAS , the reclamation this land and the prevention o f famine would appreciably o f reduce the cost living in East China , con sequently reducing the cost of raw materials ’ generally , increase China s purchasing power and stimulate both imports and exports and o ne WHEREAS , we believe this project is o f the first and most important steps to be taken in the prevention of world rice shortage . Be it

- Pac ific RESOLVED , that the Pan Com m erc ial Conference, now assembled in Hono im ortanc c o f lulu , heartily endorse the Vital p the Hwai Valley Conservancy Proj ect in rela tion to the conserving and developing of the enormous potential food supplies Of China o n with their bearing the rice situation , and would invite the attention o f all governments interested in Pacific problems to the import ance o f encouraging and supporting this proj ect .

o f Li Yuen Hung , President China, sent a congratulatory message to the Commercial

Conference , as did Herbert Hoover, Secretary

o f . Commerce at Washington , and Thomas W a Lamont , who , with Viscount Shibuz wa, first

THE PAN - PACIFIC UNION 1 51 suggested a meeting of the financial leaders O f the Pacific in Hawaii . These men and many others , topped by President Warren G . Harding , worded their greetings in forthright , con structive terms on the need o f the times .

AS a matter Of fact, there ought to be a whole volume written upon the young but stupendous

- Pac ific Pan Union , which grows and thrives beyond o ur fondest hopes in its short life

SO far . The Union was for a time at home in that white caravanserai dear to many bygone voyagers to Honolulu and beyond , the Royal

Haw anan l Hote , with its shaded spaciousness and flying balconies . It later came to rest at the Alexander Young Hotel ; but A . H . Ford will not take any rest until he has well under way the erection of a Pan - Pac ific palace that will accommodate the commercial and art exhibits that are being collected from every

Pacific land . Here will be held the confer enc es ; and the structure will include an

- to open air Greek theatre seat many thousands .

And Mr . Ford , who in a few years has resur rec ted more Hawaiian sports than surf boarding , has in his eye for the future an f Olympiad , in which ancient games o Hawaii 1 5 2 THE NEW HAWAII

o and ther countries , as well as modern con

tests , will be staged for the whole world to — an attend endless and enchanting Vista .

o f n President Pitkin , Columbia U iversity , has urged the Union to summon a convocation

o f o f heads Pacific governments , to consider

the formation o f a Pan - Pac ific League o f

. o f Nations President Harding , in his letter acceptance as an Honorary President of the

Union , cautioned a gentle approach

of o f I feel the policy the Union , proceeding for the time being in an unofficial fashion , as a wise o ne . I should hope that in due time such an organization might secure the c o operation and support o f the governments which have interests in the Pacific ; for I can realize that it has possibilities o f very great usefulness .

Why not make Honolulu the summer capital o f the United States the Pan - Pac ific leaders propose . Indeed , their boundless ambition t points o u that it is the logical National Capital .

o r - F Honolulu , in truth , lies half way between

Maine and Manila ; half- way between Alaska and Samoa . It is literally the central city of t e a of A is of h United St tes merica , as it

1 54 THE NEW HAWAII

- Pac ific c onsc e to create a Pan i nce . And it quite safe to hazard that he sees beyond his o wn hemisphere to at least the hope of a possibility of a world conscience . CHAPTER VII

THE CURE FOR LEPROSY

THING so O , I think , has deeply stirred me as the wondrous tidings o f a cure for

o f leprosy . There have been many rumours many such ; but they o ne and all vanished ff into nothingness . Now there is a di erent tale ,

’ or, rather, sequel . Jack London s hopeful prophecy in 1 9 1 5 was that leprosy in Hawaii would be reduced to a minimum , and was

’ based upon Dr . William S . Goodhue s surgery and the Territory ’ s system of strict segrega tion . Jack could not then take into account

of . the discovery a positive cure Alas , that he was not with me to read the glad , almost incredible reports in newspaper and periodical and Government bulletin . Speaking to mem bers o f the Legislature visiting the Settlement

o n 1 9 21 . Molokai in , Dr Goodhue declared

’ With two years chaulmoogra o il treat

- five o f ment , I believe sixty per cent the chronic cases of leprosy on Molokai can be ” ” . And cured Within ten years , he added , 1 55 1 56 THE NEW HAWAII

all cases should be cured, and Kalaupapa be abandoned as a leper settlement That same day Dr . F . E . Trotter, President of the

o f Territorial Board Health , announced to the lepers assembled in their amusement hall that inside a period o f two years probably not twenty - five o f their number would be com

elled p to stay on Molokai . The feelings o f those in the audience un

TO doubtedly varied . the majority , the hope held out for a return to the outside world must have been received with solemn thanks

sub se giving ; but there were some , as quent events proved , who , having been happy

o n in the undisturbed life the peninsula , looked with dismay upon being torn from its care and consistent kindness .

The astounding revelation , after many cen turies O , is based upon results btained at D n l . Mc o a d Kalihi , under Dr . J . T , Director

u se Leprosy Investigation Station , from the o f chaulmoogra Oil . The history is brief

1 9 1 8 . In , the distinguished chemist , Dr Arthur

D o f o f L . ean , President the University Hawaii ,

o f Was and head its chemistry department, asked by the United States Public Health Service to add to the college research work

1 5 8 THE NEW HAWAII children have been brought freely as soon as the nature of their disease was guessed by ikm parents and guardians . This is in str g contrast to the painful necessity in past years o f arresting suspected lepers through deputy sheriffs . The Kalihi Station is flooded with letters from all over the world, requesting its remedies . The reply must perforce be that these are still o f an experimental nature , and not yet com m erc ially available ; also that they are fo r hospital treatment , where the patient is under O bservation that they do not lend themselves to the practice even Of the family physician , and that they are impossible o f self- administra tion .

’

Dr. D . is Of course , Dr Goodhue using ean s derivatives of chaulmoogra Oil at Kalaupapa ; and out o f the five hundred and twelve patients

1 9 20 o ne - five in , hundred and seventy took

o f regular treatment . Lack the Oil was the sole reason that all were not sharing in the capsules or the hypodermic inj ections . But a full supply had been promised . At the meeting in Kalaupapa before cited , Senator

L . M . Judd , commenting upon the willingness o f the Legislature to do everything possible THE CURE FOR LEPROSY 1 5 9

for the patients , remarked that the Board of Health Budget was larger in 1 9 21 than the

Territorial Budget was eight years before .

Dr . Dean , when called , was not to be found

in the hall . Summoned from outside , he spoke

of briefly, saying that the laboratory the

o f University Hawaii , its force supplemented

of by workers furnished by the Board Health , was bent upon turning o ut the Oil in sufficient

quantities for all needs .

our . But it was friend , Charles F Chilling worth , President of the Senate , who brought up the problem of finding homes for the patients who would be paroled after they had been in

Kalaupapa for years . He suggested the home

o f steading by them lands on Molokai , and voiced his intention of taking the question

The before the Governor and the Legislature .

Hawaiian Annual , issued by the Tourist

o f G Bureau, and the yearly report the overnor 30 trace the progress Of the Cure . On June , 1 9 21 , there were but four hundred and eighty one lepers left at the Settlement , a decrease o f - five Sixty in a year . No patients had been I ' transferred there from the Kalihi rec eiving hospital in Honolulu in the two years pre

- ceding . The four hundred and eighty o ne at 1 60 THE NEW HAWAII

Kalaupapa represented , therefore , the lowest in the history since its establishment in 1 8 60 . I note the interesting announcement that since the Dean treatment has been in use, ” ! swipe making and ! swipe drinking have almost ceased . A possible reason is that persons making or using liquor o f any sort are refused treatment at the dispensary . At the Kalihi hospital in mid - 1 9 21 there were o ne - so hundred and thirty two inmates , and remarkable was the effect of the treatment that during the year forty - Six men and forty — eight women were paroled necessarily under

Observation . For those who have been measurably happy ’ o n Molokai s verdant cape , and are loth to b id e it farewell , how ideal it would be if th ir homesteads eventually could be chosen from its grasslands and the yielding valleys o f the

no . pali , longer a barrier to outside intercourse

s A if in response to my heartfelt wish , I find

o f the following in a Honolulu paper date ,

6 1 9 22 : November , Nineteen patients at the leper settlement several of them cared for at that isolated spot for more than twenty years , have been f paroled by the Territorial Board o Health .

1 6 2 THE NEW HAWAII

exceptionally rigorous O wing to the fact that

sh e could not overcome violent sea- sickness o n

- the inter island passage . Finally, She gave

set up all absences , and for many years never

’ o n foot other soil than Molokai s .

for o f As the rest the island, it has been

somewhat opened to the tourist , and plans are afoot for making the interior more and more

o f accessible . Some the finest scenery in these mid - sea isles is to be found in the interior o f Molokai The Lonely Isle The valley o f ” Halawa is an instance . The traveller, ” 1 8 5 4 wrote A Haole , in , stumbled upon ’ 3 f its brink unawares . At a depth o nearly two thousand five hundred feet below, there

o t o f spreads u a panorama exquisite beauty . Several large cascades spring hundreds o f

o f feet into the valley . These , and scores

of taro beds , with a scattering native dwellings , can all be seen in a sweeping glance . Valleys like these , almost unvisited by white men , have remained much the same as when a few ”

saw . early navigators them It seems , the o ld o ne writer said , as if leap would lodge the visitor at the foot o f the enormous walls ” which bound this earthly Eden . THE CURE FOR LEPROSY 1 63 He tells how the scenes in Pilgrim ’ s Pro gress had stayed in his consciousness Since childhood , and how that matchless allegory welled up in memory when o n Molokai he came upon the Delectable Mountains and the

o f . Land Beulah , and explored their secrets

I have it from eye - witnesses that Halawa is little changed , and quite accessible . Hawaii is waking to the possibilities o f this island so little known to the outside ; and hotels will be built at strategic points to enable the Visitor to reach novel sights in the Paradise o f so nu the Pacific , which have far been

o n heralded . I shall make my w pilgrimage some day to that Molokai , which , unlike the leper peninsula, I have not seen ; and I shall tarry at my o wn sweet will until I have known it all . A correspondent writes me from Pukoo , o n the south - east rim o f Molokai : I live here in my house by the sea, as isolated as if I were in Tonga . But the years are few ere the horn o f the

sa o f o O f hunter, to y nothing the hoarse h nk the gas - car and the strident explosion o f aeroplane enginery will daily contest the supremacy o f nesting birds in the utmost reaches . Regretfully enough , one must remem 1 64 THE NEW HAWAII

ber that the swarming o f white sojourners means the gradual disappearance of the last indigenes , until now practically undisturbed , in their lovely retreats o n the edge o f the

o f world , by the gruelling march events outside in that world .

1 6 6 THE NEW HAWAII

’ reaches o f Father Shipman s vast cattle

’ - - - lands . It is pronounced Kay ah ah o o ’ quickly Kay - ah - o w Such tropic jungle on the winding way !

But first , last , and always , the cane , a jungle

. o ne in itself, high above the big car Often had to be wary o f the slicing thrusts o f living green blades , where the stalks had bent down the wire barriers which protect the road . It f o n o ne o . was these drives that Mrs Shipman , ” whom I am privileged to call Mother , enlightened me upon the intricacies of the

Hawaiian tongue . I was commenting upon

andanus odoratissimus the pandanus trees (p ) , called lauhala and hala by the natives . Lest o ne fall into the misconception that the

o f o ne o r language the Hawaiians is a meagre , deprecate the manifold importance o f the pandanus , it is provocative to learn that the tree itself is known more strictly as puuh ala ;

o f the flat , pointed knives leaves , lauhala the

ahuih ala edible nut growing at the base , ; the b flower from which the leis are strung, inana ; aakala are the many stilted aerial roots which uphold the tree and even branch downward f from some o the limbs . These gradually lift

to the trunk , at the same time anchoring it AA PAPZE 6 7 HILO , KE U,

the ground in all directions . They bear a

saw slight resemblance to the mangrove , as I

o f it in the islands Melanesia , but are straight , while the other writhes into an inextricable

tangle . The friendly pandanus is also fami

liarl o f - y spoken as the screw pine , from the way in which its sheaves o f blades twist in a

perfect spiral upon the bole . The number o f its benefits to mankind is

- uuh ala rivalled only by the coco nut . The p ,

o f besides furnishing food in the shape nuts , and aesthetic pleasure by its orange leis and its

exotic beauty , is the staple for mat hat fan

- o ld o f and cushion weaving . Of , strands its

fibre went to make deadly slings for warfare .

o f The fibrous wood the mature tree is hard , and takes so high a polish that it is used in making the handsome turned bowls that have

come to be known as calabashes .

Once at shady Keaau , Mother Shipman , knowing what I fancy, has a nimble Hawaiian scaling o ne Of her Sky - aspiring palms for

- O f coco nuts . A clever swish the heavy knife ,

o f and the flagon fragrant cool water is ready ,

o f l fla o ns and I dream , as I drink , simi ar g

th e I have drained in far, savage isles to south . 1 68 THE NEW HAWAII

Then one lolls delectably in hammocks on

o f the high , cool lanai , until an irruption young things carrying bathing suits and towels stirs

’ one s languor . Swimming at Keaau is inside

- - surf pounded , lava rock barrier . The climbing

of combers the unhindered Pacific , bursting, spill over and through crevices into this sheltered playground . We descend steps in a

- high stone retaining wall , to frolic on the sand , across which a fresh streamlet , never by the same route two days running, finds its way to the salt water . One has to hunt for places to swim among lava hummocks , since at maximum tide there is brisk work battling with miniature

o t currents that wash in and u the interstices .

Fo r an unhampered dash , we would wind up n in a large fresh pond o the higher ground .

From Keaau we made a trip to Papac , a

- - sheep camp on the Shipman holdings , along ’ m li i i Puna s ironbound coast . Let no a h n think that the arrow - straight engineering of o ur modern motor track is an innovation in the o ld kingdom of Hawaii . I rode many miles that afternoon upon a road true as a moonbeam , and built by hands dust this hundred years

’ and more . It was Kamehameha s edict that

New- comer

1 70 THE NEW HAWAII the few enormous stars the full moon let

. of glitter Under the blanket, in the crook my arm , a blooded young fox terrier moaned with

’ — a - the j oy of white caresses white man s dog , tolerated kindly enough by the cowboys . When we could rouse ourselves from con tem lation o f o n p the night, we went to bed a

’ broad platform in the Japanese goatherd s hut .

It did not look tempting . But the fastidious

so Shipmans seemed nothing loth , I made

- flo ore d myself at home in the small , earth

fl tter room a u with quaint rags . Coming to examine these and the rest o f the windowless shack , I found it all immaculate , everything ” - sweet as a nut , as if fresh laundered . I have often wondered if the fatherly little goatherd had a special penchant for collecting rags . It may be that they recompensed him for a bachelor existence The crisp night wind flowed in and o ut o f

Open doorways , and at intervals a pink glow suffused us from distant Kilauea . We dreamed like children to the organ music Of the surf ; and there was a poignancy in the — pleasure o f waking to the sunrise a colossal o rb - , clear cut as a harvest moon , red as wine,

out o f - lifting slowly, heavily, a Slate blue ,

1 72 THE NEW HAWAII

account written by one T . Charles Byde Rooke , and published in 1 8 38 in a quarterly

The Hawaiian S ec tator j ournal called p , printed by Edwin 0 . Hall for A Society o f Gentle men in Honolulu

An unusual number o f persons were collected together attending a protracted meet ing , consequently every house was crowded . At half- past six the sea retired at the rate of 4 o r 5 knots an hour, reducing the soundings from 5 3 to fathoms at the anchorage , and leaving o f a great extent the harbour dry . Hundreds o f curious souls rushed down to witness the novelty , when a gigantic wave came roaring o f 6 8 to the shore at the rate to knots , rising

20 - o n feet above high water mark, and fell the beach with a noise resembling a heavy peal Of thunder, burying the people in the flood , fish o nds destroying houses , canoes and p , wash ing away the food and clothing Of the inhab i o f tants , large quantities animals , firewood n and timber collected o the strand for sale . The British whale - Ship Admiral Cockburn was at anchor in the Bay , and to the timely aid and humane exertions o f her master

(Lawrence) and crew, many are indebted for their lives ; but for the assistance rendered by their boats , many who were stunned would sea as have been carried out to and perished, TIDAL WAVES 1 73 the natives had not a canoe left that would

float . That this apparent submarine volcanic action has taken place at some distance from the islands is proved by the wave striking the ff di erent islands simultaneously, and apparently in the same direction ; but at what distance ” we have no means at present o f determining .

r o f Cu iously enough , at the time I write

of this , there comes the report a sizable wave that has created havoc among the Shipping

in this section . The first newspaper item ,

to my horror, stated that Hilo had been destroyed A wireless message had been mis t — H l read a sea Chile being mutilated into i o . The later reports from Chile indicated great

o f loss life and confusion from earthquake . The backwash struck Hilo Bay with a series

o f small tidal waves , the first coming at about

o n of 1 1 1 9 22 nine the morning November , , and the latest at eleven , and sending lowland dwellers in a panic to higher ground . Coconut

Island was covered with water, and local small shipping badly mixed up . There was

f si no loss o life . The water rose x feet and two inches at Kuhio wharf, after sweeping through the breakwater . Fish were washed ashore 1 74 THE NEW HAWAII when the salt torrent flowed back from the

eu river, and children gathering them were

dangered by the second wave . Several fol

lowed , but there was no increase in height over

the first .

i es an Waiakea V llage , sentially Oriental pic ture except for haoles and Hawaiians arriving

’ or departing in ships boats , is a sequestered nook o f Nippon ; from the sea approached

under a bridge , and partially bounded by

rickety, balconied houses , hung with bright

coloured Japanese signs and flags and rags . A photograph fails to give any idea o f the

’ Village s foreign charm , because its main note,

that vivid colouring, is lost . Down the marshy

- stream , after rough weather, come fairy like

floating islets , forested in miniature with lilac

tinted wild lilies . Past the bannered buildings

and gorgeously painted sampans , under the bridge the amethystine islets move in the

o n o ut unhurrying flood , and to sea ; to me , following their course , freighted with dreams

Fo r that have been dreamed, forsooth . that n way went the Snark o e dear day long ago .

1 76 THE NEW HAWAII

South Sea atoll , supporting tiny hills as does the surrounding reef o f Bora - Bora in the

o ne are Societies . Upon the iron atoll bore a rugged dwarf mountain with the silhouette

O f o n a castle the Rhine . Inside this black lava circlet there moved and fountained a

o f lake fiery liquid, while between the ring and the crater walls flowed and exploded a molten torrent . This would gradually sink a few feet , disclosing awful caverns at white heat along the under edges of the wreath - shaped island . The fountains in river and lake, first bubbling up in domes of exquisite fire - rose and lambent amber, would swell to bursting point , and fling high into the burning night

Of tons molten fiery gold , which fell in great drops heavily back into the restless , roaring , hissing mass . When one first leaves his car in the parking

- place , there is heard the peculiar soft grinding ,

o f avalanching sound the milling chaos . The sk 1 y s painted red above the pit , and clouds o f pink steam rise and bend back and forth in

o r the wind , float away . But this illumination is no preparation , even to the very brink, I

fo r swear, what impinges upon the eye when it looks over into Halemaumau , the House A VOLCANIC MARVEL 1 77

o f Fire . The brilliance is Of an intensity so terrific that comparison with all the white - hot furnaces Of the world could give little intimation

O f o f this glare that seems , like the eye God , to pierce and light the innermost convolutions

’ o f o f one s brain , to rob the very spirit its

vain secrets .

o ne o f By day the brilliance is more colour, as if the solar spectrum dyed the earth - stained

substance and vapour with fervid rose , red ,

and orange , and sulphurous greens and yellows . é Pel , fire goddess , has played fast and loose the past several years ; and no man can count upon his pilgrimage being rewarded by

her most spectacular performances . Although I continue to maintain that her serenest

vapourings are worth the voyage .

1 9 21 Hawke e State In March of , the steamer y

via made her first Baltimore to Hawaii trip ,

of Panama Canal , bringing a large list eastern passengers to visit the volcanic marvel . The campaign O f publicity which landed them at Hilo had been based more than all else upon a prayer that the goddess might be in wrathful mood .

Hawke e State As the y neared port , however, there was a disheartening lack of glow upon the side of Mauna Loa . The hopes of the pro M 1 78 THE NEW HAWAII m oters were faint when the hotels at Kilauea had been reached and grumbling arose over insuffi cient accommodation and the lethargic

o f aspect Halemaumau in the distance . This continued until the procession o f motors was

o n well its way through the tropical forest , bound for the pit .

And then it happened .

fo r Abruptly , as if ordered their benefit , Pelé broke loose upon the starry night ; and by the time the excited scores had reached the

o f Verge her dwelling, the ponderous surge ,

urged from beneath , was lashing tremendously

against the battlements . These capitulated

to the onslaught , and crashed into the furious

maelstrom , driving the tourists hastily to their cars and the safety and sight - seeing

vantage of the bluffs around the main crater . I quote from one who saw

The lake broke through crevices and rushed with express speed o ut over the old

lava surface , where flowing lava had not been o n known for forty years . A river formed

the Side toward the Volcano House , plunged

down the incline , covered the old horse corral ’ w here Professor J aggar s instruments were

stored , sealing them forever . On and on the

1 8 0 THE NEW HAWAII

. o Thomas Augustus Jaggar, Junr , volcanol gist

US . in charge ( Department of Agriculture ,

Weather Bureau) , submitted that borings in search o f heat for transformation into electric energy be made in the valley lying between — Kilauea which he has found to be an indepen — dent mountain and Mauna Loa . The idea was suggested by John Brooks Henderson , zoologist , from Washington , D . C . , who backed up the proposal with a contribution Of These holes to be sunk at the base of the west

f of o f bluf Kilauea crater, in the bottoms

Kilauea and Kilauea Iki , and in the outer

o f slopes Kilauea and Mauna Loa . Borings to be deep , to determine temperature , mineral and gas conditions , earthquake phenomena , and water underground at the volcanoes . The Hawaii Research Association approached the territorial legislature with this suggestion , and funds were appropriated .

It is a fascinating thing to contemplate .

Far more so than the invention o f fast - obsolete war enginery and the squandering o f dizzying

o n of billions the same , while the victims the

o r infernal machines beg for bread and bed ,

d - turn to crime . An think of the child brains dulling in the factories of the land of the free A VOLCANIC MARVEL 1 8 1

of and the home the brave , because a time dishonoured law has been found constitutional

o ne in this day . Who knows that any of these young brains might not be such an one as those o f Henderson and the volcanologist o n

o f a the Slopes Kil uea, who open up this vista o f scientific romance for young and o ld Not

for nothing did Jack London , dying before the United States stepped into the fight for ” o n democracy, picture his native land her fat ,

ro fit- helpless , lonely , unhonourable , p seeking ” way . We got into the fight , wastefully , it is

true , but quickly and magnificently (if there is

really anything magnificent in war) , and helped

o f t f o u o . the rest the world , temporarily, it

But look at us since , with scant conscience

o ur o ur o ur toward educators , children , anti ” ” o ur o ur war prisoners , heroes , democracy . One is tempted to indorse George Bernard ’ saw Shaw s apt The longer I live , the more firmly I am convinced that the other planets

o r use u earth as their lunatic asylum .

o n But this is a book Hawaii , and I have digressed— yet have I ! This work of Tom

’ J a ar s gg , on his heights geographically , crea tivel y, head thrust forward into a golden age

of cie ar for o f s ntific rese ch the good man, 1 8 2 THE NEW HAWAII

o ne stings into swift realization of the cruel , wanton loss o f strength and money that makes

o f for destruction body and mind , when it might be turned to account for the beautiful f emancipations o life . 1 9 21 In July , , Kilauea National Park , com prising thirty - fiv e thousand eight hundred and

’ - fiv e o f sixty acres Hawaii s mountain land ,

fire - including the pit , was dedicated . The picturesque exercises included a prayer to the

fire goddess , incanted by a lineal descendant f f é o o . a priest Pel This invocation , delivered

- o f O in the full toned chant the lder Hawaiians , was succeeded by a delivery o f the first Chris tian prayer spoken at the same brink by the

iol ni f spirited Kap a o other days . ’ The Mauna Loa section o f Haw an s national

Mokuaw eo w eo parks , including its crater and a right o f way of three hundred and sixty acres , giving access to the Kilauea section , is seventeen thousand three hundred and eighty acres . In connection with this national park a road has now been built to the crater Mokna w eo w eo at the summit of Mauna Loa , The

’ 2 Long Mountain . Owners of land required for the highway were willing to donate what

1 8 4 THE NEW HAWAII

f in avoidance o an O bviously doomed home . And I detected a hesitancy among these good

people , as well as other island Visitors who

’ - rushed to the ten days wonder , about telling

what they had seen .

’ ” I t s like this , they would begin , falteringly .

s w We a things that nobody would believe . How do we know We tried it o ut when we

to o got home The thing was too big, terrific , — to impress those who had not been there in spite o f the great smoke and glare which hid Hawaii from the other islands for days and

days . What would you say to this : I stood

o n the hot bank of that burning cascade , and

saw b oulders as bi as houses o u g , I tell y , per

fec tl y incandescent , go rolling down to the

’ sea —u ; and b ut there I go . I don t think

’ you d believe the things I could tell you ;

’ ’ and I don t know that I d blame yo u

’ Yet I find in Professor J aggar s O ffi cial report

The lava rafts o r blocks o f bench

magma which rolled down the live channel , sea were seen to bob up [in the ! , make surface o ut steam , and float some distance from the

shore without Sinking at first , as though buoyed by the hot gas inflating them . Lightnings A VOLCANIC MARVEL 1 8 5

were seen in the steam columns . There was o f fish much muddying the water , and were

killed in considerable numbers .

For the week previous the Professor had

- sun- u kept a pack train in readiness , and by p

o n 2 o f September 9 he and Mr . Finch the

O bservatory , with two native packers , were on their fatiguing and perilous adventure

over the lava deserts of other periods . The redoubtable scientist risked life and limb in the ensuing days to secure his remarkable photographs and take samples of gas in vacuum

o f tubes . The absorbing details the journey and its observations are in his B ulletin o f

1 9 1 9— of October, the tall fountains lava , the

o f detonations tremendous explosions , the lake o f fire on the high mountain , and the final plunge of the melt over old lava cliffs into the sea in a river running five to ten miles an hour . The red torrent coursed for ten days . The heat of the stilled lava was not yet gone when , four months afterward , I motored upon where it had crossed , a hundred yards wide , — the highway in Alika district a waste of a- a

e e of - as upstanding as the wav l t a tide rip , 1 8 6 THE NEW HAWAII k k kupi ipi io . It had swept everything in its

ff e path , causing su ering, f ar, and death among the herds . A temporary restoration o f the highway was begun as soon as the heat had

o ne sufficiently cooled ; but it made nervous ,

se e in an inflammable vehicle , to how a light shower caused the lava to steam , and to feel warmth still rising from crevices . During the eruption there was a succession o f - short period , shallow tidal waves , ranging from four to fourteen feet in height . These kept in trepidation the passengers on vessels

o ff- o f all classes that swarmed shore . An authentic tale IS told o f the wife of an islander being swept some distance o ut by a subsiding

sh e tidal wave . Fortunately was a swimmer . I have forgotten whether sh e was returned by the next landward billow o r was rescued by a canoe .

’ of Hawan s As I write , at this late date,

to volcanoes quick and dead , it comes me that they have new rivals in extent— Katmai in

Alaska, and Svea crater in Iceland , lately

Y b er discovered by the Swedish savants , g

and Waddell . But the character and accessi b ility of Kilauea and Haleakala in Hawaii

make them immune from neglect .

1 8 8 THE NEW HAWAII upreared in mighty masses from the seething surface Of the molten lava lake ; instead o f the brilliant displays o f fountaining that have for so long delighted every visitor with the coruscating splendour , there is now nothing but an awful void upon the verge of which o ne is desperately afraid to venture . The very o f vastness this aching void is appalling , for i the pit is more than twice its former s ze , and o ne walks a full two miles before its circum O ference may be completed . S changed is it that only by noting the well - known landmarks o f the outer walls may one recognize in which ne direction o walks at all . While the upper rim is still ‘ more or less o f a circle the whole interior is changed beyond all imagin o ne ing, and looks down trembling through smoke fumes and dust clouds to an oval shaped jumble o f rocks that represents the o f bottom of the pit . Not a spark fire is Visible at that depth o f nearly a thousand feet almost everywhere the spirals of blue and dun smoke come twisting upward from crevices in the ” fearful wreck below .

Magnificent as was the wreck of Halem au

o f mau (House Fire) , the Hawaii Promotion Committee and other like organizations were very blue over what had happened . But they counted without their hostess : Pelé returned was or when she was ready, which in a few Sh t A VOLCANIC MARVEL 1 8 9 months . In October the lava was rising at

o f the rate eight feet per day, and fountain ing in as spectacular a manner as the most meticulous Tourist Bureau or ! Ad Club could desire . CHAPTER X — — KALAPANA A CURE FOR HEADACHE FOLKLORE

see HILE in Hilo , I asked to Kalapana f once more, with its long beach and clif s

sea - stepped in deep , its tall palm groves and — the niu moe sleeping coco - nuts those palms bent , when young, by Visiting chiefs , and called thereafter by the names of those chiefs . These in Kalapana were bent by

Queen Emma , wife of Kamehameha IV . The day has no w gone by when Hawaiian travellers observed their telic and pretty custom o f plant ing a tree wherever they chanced to rest . I call to mind an exquisite cluster of five green

o n n palms beside a spring, the Pe insula, in

set o ut Pearl Harbour, Oahu . They were by

on o wn John F . Colburn his estate, in the

’ stormy days o f Liliuokalani s accession to the tottering throne , to commemorate her appointment of himself and four other ministers

o n to serve in her cabinet . Every mile this whole ancient territory o f Hawaii is fraught 1 9 0

1 9 2 THE NEW HAWAII appeared and bade the chief go and recover his bones from the Temple enclosure . But

first he must anoint his body with kukui - nut o il ; and by this slippery strategy he with

o f stood the attack the wrestler, whom he killed . He entered the heiau by daylight ,

akuas o ff the spirits ( ) being then duty , and hid beneath the picked bones of his friend .

akuas When the returned at dusk , they

n o f suspicioned the prese ce a human , but were

’ reassured by the spirit o f th e Kona man s friend , who , at midnight , crowed like a cock ,

akuas . and the departed , thinking it was dawn

’ Before the rescuer of his friend s bones made

o wn his escape , he destroyed the great grass

ka u of ah aula temple by fire . The tabu ( p ) W was fire , and any person upon whom rested the

o f shadow smoke from the ghastly rites , was sacrificed .

on Farther along the trail , the makai side ,

- o d old is shown the footprint of a demi g of ,

o f Niheu , as well as the mark an arrow which he sent at another demi - god who came to

o f vanquish him . Following west, makai

a Kam oam oa where the trail turns mauk , is ,

nd o ne ee o f a there may s a natural arch , which there are several in the islands . A KALAPANA 1 93 few interesting rock - carvings have been found here .

o f All legend aside , in a desert section the Kilauea National Park actual footprints have recently been discovered , embedded in the

o f 1 79 0 of lava ash , undoubtedly those the

o f Keou a warriors , made when they were

fleeing from the terrible eruption . Scientists are steadily o n the hunt for o ld 1 9 21 temples and sites , and in the total for all the islands reached five hundred and

- seventeen . Near Punaluu , the landing place

n Punaluunui for East Kau , are the heia s of

Kaneele ele and , said to have been connected in their workings with the great Wah aula heiau

Of Puna . And Dr . T . A . Jaggar has stumbled upon an Old heiau in the Pahala section o f

o f i o ula the Kau district , which the ex sting p p tion profess to have no knowledge . These f ruins dif er from all others uncovered , in that

Or the stones bear many rude carvings , petro glyphs , in crescents and circles , with and

is without dots . This the only known way the Hawaiians had of writing and symbolizing . There are similar characters to be seen o n the

of rocks the shore in Kona . And lately there have been found , up in the woods near the N 1 9 4 THE NEW HAWAII

e dividing line b tween North and South Kona ,

o f a remarkable set rock carvings . Large

' areas o f pictographs have been listed o n the

o f islands Lanai and Kauai , and the Bishop Museum hopes by unremitting search and

ke f study to come at the y o the mystery .

I had experienced the lomi - lomi (massage) of of the Hawaiians , as well as certain South Sea

w as tribes , but in Kau to learn something f entirely novel in the curing o headache . An

Old woman , still handsome, with an antic humour in her black eyes from which the fire was yet to be quenched, noticed that I had a

b enevo severe headache . Enticing me , with lent gestures and little luring moans , to a sofa

sh e that had seen better days , laid rude but shrewd hands upon the tendons o f the inner f sides o the legs below the knees . Those powerful fingers , relentless as the bronze they looked , kneaded and twanged those cords until lo ! in a mere ten minutes or so the

o f misery , accumulated in hours motoring

sk under a brassy y, was charmed away charmed not by any means being the best word for this high and drastic attainment in the science Of massage . I have since tried the

1 9 6 THE NEW HAWAII

Snark , and his wife Osa have but lately dis covered in both the Solomons and the New

- o f Hebrides , moving pictures which I have seen . Brownies for all the world, even if a trifle better proportioned than our fairy - tale books would” have us believe of our own

r ns Lep eh au . CHAPTER XI — MAUNA KE A B OAR HUNTING

NE morning at half- past two we set out

’ from Hilo for the Shipmans highest alti tude o n Mauna Kea . But not by way of their volcano house, which necessitates traversing the lava valley between Mauna Loa and its

o ld twin mountain . These estates lie in strips from varying heights to seashore, enabling their owners to have homes at any level , and to pursue any business that the ! lay of the land and quality of the soil make possible .

Often, of course, with unproductive stretches of o ld or even new lava thrown in for bad measure . We motored up the coast on the good roads that always reminded me o f the anecdotes o f kamaainas about the terrible risks of the

- Old time trails . Mother Shipman has been reminiscent for me o f days when she travelled

- horseback in side saddle , with babes in arms , over boggy pathways that were the only means of going around the island . She also told me 1 9 7 1 9 8 THE NEW HAWAII

o ur that good friend Kakina , Lorrin A .

o f Thurston, descendant missionaries , was

fo r pioneer agitator better roads .

o t Breathing the odours of Eden, in and u Of the cavernous moonlit gulches we whirled, trying to catch glimpses o f the sleeping beaches at their mouths , whence the crash of breakers ff came mu led to our ears . The Sky went every o pal tint that dawn can paint and when the sun rose it was a dull ruby globe that burned

o ur B its way through the mist at backs . y five we were breakfasting in substantial New England fashion with friends in Waimea o n the Parker Ranch . More than o ne gorgeous sunrise was ours while we wound southerly up Mauna Kea ’ s

i on for - western s de tracks more fit cow ponies , and only lately attempted by automobiles .

- o ne As the clover leaf climbed , felt less and less inclined to break the spell by talking .

o f The beauty , the enormousness every pros pec t was almost stupefying . The first great valley we encountered lies several thousand feet high between the largest mountain ’ s broken

Hualalai ts knees and , lifting i head more than eight thousand feet to the right , with Mauna

Loa Visible ahead . It must be kept in mind

200 THE NEW HAWAII

’ six thousand feet overhead , of Mauna Kea s

pure snowy pinnacles , with their azure shadows . I ’ m afraid you ’ ll be disappointed in the ” buildings , Caroline ventured . Disappointed Never had I beheld anything to equal that

little ranch house , perched a mile and a quarter

se a- o f - above level . It is built hand hewn koa — walls , roof, floors , lanais . Koa , red as

Etruscan gold , is as common here as precious

of metal in heaven The furniture , too , is ” s Haw anan the ame mahogany , carved long ago in quaintest of Shapes . Outside , the house was greyed beautifully with age and weathers f o . many years We slept in high koa beds ,

’ o n fat wool mattresses carded by Jack s First f ” o . Lady Hawaii , Mother Shipman herself And what sleep What appetite What life

- m o m It was snapping cold at and eve , with a

- L— moon diamond b right never did I see moon so bright . I would wake to hear, as if in a

Maine winter, the telephone wire humming and crackling , and the mynahs complaining o f the cold ; and another bird , nameless to me , with a benevolent warble low in the throat .

Before the moon had risen , we could make o ut sea o f afar, where the laved the foot the MAUNA KEA 201

of valley , the twinkling lights Hilo town , a

little south of east . For it must be realized

o n o f Old that , account lava flows , we had to come nearly around Mauna Kea to reach o ur

’ destination . Already the glow from Kilauea s raging furnace was colouring the dark clouds

’ beyond Mauna Loa s long incline . Any time

o ne of the night could reckon upon that intense ,

- - lurid wine glow to the south east .

of Breakfasts were mainly plumpest plover,

’ proudly served to the queen s taste by Ondera ,

- the Japanese cook , a broken down cowboy . For some reason it had been hard fo r me to think of the Japanese as cowboys ; but I had

something to learn . Ranchers who are fo rtu nate enough to obtain and keep them say

there are none more able nor more faithful . The time came when the Splendid Hawaiian horsemen were not to be persuaded to stay

upon the upper reaches . They wanted the

- towns , amusements , moving pictures . A pic turesque Japanese graveyard o n a neighbouring knoll at Pq O attests the period o f devotion

of the transplanted labour .

of I came to call it The Book the Mountain , what I read into and o ut of it from saddle and 202 THE NEW HAWAII

from lanai at Pq O . From dawn to dusk the pages were always turning . Sometimes i tw light arrived short hours after high noon , with an inflo at o f cloud between earth and sun that seemed to rob one of weight and all relation to everyday sensations , giving great area to the imagination . Then would Show the sudden

i o f etching, against th nning vapour , the

of writhen , ghostly Skeleton a dead koa tree ,

r o the large grace of a living lehua . But for

the most part the satin - grey doorway framed a happy foreground of green touched with s n- u gold . What held me most in thrall was the breath taking lap of earth between the two mammoth nl mountains . For the first time I realized , o y

possible from such vantage , what a whale of

a mountain is Mauna Loa, and why the

ancients named it Loa (Long) . It is that long,

sea. gradual slope to the Upon its flank, from

o f the summit, miles upon miles lava that had

’ flowed from Moku aw eow eo in the early fifties 1 8 8 0 and as late as , glisten under the brassy

sun l like streaming fields of mica, hard y dis

i ish ab le or t ngu from snow ice . Pq O Sometimes , at , I seemed to be in a

balcony overlooking a gigantic stage . The

204 THE NEW HAWAII

with sagacious eyes . Good little philosophers all , and kindly . Exhilarating was the dash down that hum mocky , slanting champaign , hoofs displacing dust only lightly laid by cloud moisture . Fear o f monotony is dispelled in the first mile of closer acquaintance with the range . Quite unexpectedly the soft pasture - soil gives place to harder ground o f half- decomposed lava forested in koa , standing and fallen . Then as unexpectedly we come upon a large river between steep banks ; but it is o f long

. o n arrested lava Halting the brink, we watch the hunters scrambling below after a boar , the collies stringing out eagerly in pursuit ,

kahilis bearing their plumed tails like , proudly . i I rein down nto the channel , and negotiate

o f the stream stone and the farther bank, marvelling upon the puissance of my square

o f and honest pony . On over a descent rugged lava country , with clinking Shoes the horses leap like goats , landing bunched from mound

or to mound with perfect precision , scamper ing like rabbits in the wider spaces . We stop

- where a stout plain wire boundary is reached , by which the Government protects the young MAUNA KEA 205

koa forestage , rooted in large bracken and

tree ferns . From among this undergrowth the

’ - collies smiling faces , bright eyed , point up

at us , where they have come upon the quarry

accounted for by the first shot . A cowboy

swings from his horned saddle , and dexterously, without a waste movement , skins the bristly beast, whose lips in death snarl away from yellowed tusks . The butchering is unpleasant and malodorous , but interesting . The knife releases the entrails , and a small rough boot is planted conveniently midmost of the smoking ruins that seem to shrink from con

an tact with inimical outer world . All of the once vicious wild - pig is left o n the ground

o f save the four quarters , except in case

o t especially fine ribs . When the boys are u for longer periods , they roast the meat , wrapped

of in koa leaves , in a bed hot stones lined with koa branches . The meat remains all day in

fir les this primitive e s cooker . Sometimes we trailed after the hunters into deep glens , crowded with ferns , where the victims were brought to bay and dispatched in thicket from which it was diflic ult to retrieve their carcases . Caroline and I turned homeward by way o f an 206 THE NEW HAWAII

’ s e th e obscure trail h knew upon long acclivity . Part of the distance was over pahoehoe lava o f

- antiquity , patterned in grey green lichen and

- a rich , tawny tiger moss thick and yielding as

sk Wilton carpet . The y was wonderful as the

— a sk of earth satsuma y blue and white , the fleck o f clouds giving the effect o f delicate cracked surfaces .

o r A roaring fireplace greeted u return . The smiling Ondera bustled about like an old

set nurse making us comfortable , and upon

o f the koa table , already holding his vase

of dewy blue violets , a steaming roast ranch

s beef, and steaming vegetable from his garden .

Later, while we read cozily in the warmth , o ut o f the windy night we heard the hunters and pack animals coming in with the slain porkers ; and presently their laconic expres sions o f satisfaction as they sat to meat in

’ Onder a s domain .

sk o f Under a tortoise y this time , a dome

o f large close patches lead and white , we swung down - mountain to move into certain paddocks a drove o f cattle which had come all the way

sea. from Keaau by the To an American, the word paddock sounds so futile to designate the seemingly immeasurable acreage between

MAUNA KEA 207

fences and gates . Moment by moment I marvelled at the diversity o f that sage - green

so obliquity . Large areas are rich and friable that it must have puzzled the owner where , Pq O in some practically desirable spot , as , to find a patch o f earth firm enough to bear a house . It is saddening to come upon so much

o f fallen timber . A pest moss has overspread and destroyed great numbers o f the large f . saw o growth Among living trees , I a few the naia (false sandalwood) pricked o ut bright b green by stray sun eams .

of Over the tussocks grass we raced , senses aching with very pleasure o f motion in so boundless a survey . The declining earth stretches in an unbroken expanse ; then sud denl sk y, under a clearing y, an unguessed deep serration yawns at our feet The little horses drop easily from the prairie into tropic

' wh ere th e ferns and flowering lehua, ground

h ot . is lush , the air as in a greenhouse Just as o ne notices that the fern - edges are frost bitten to brown , a cloud rolls maj estically

o n overhead , and coats are drawn without delay . Shortly afterward the torrid sunshine

floods down, and one pants in the rarefied air, 208 THE NEW HAWAII

while the toughest cow - pony breaks out in

sweat . We would ride through a living greenwood

of large koa, and the next paddock would shock as the veriest boneyard of blanched

trunks and limbs , erect or prone . In one such , i we moistened our throats with th mbleberries ,

quite juicy and refreshing , and less insipid

o ur than California ones .

Resting loosely in saddle , we followed with o ur eyes the red cattle deploying with soft

o f impact tired hoofs . Next we would be

- over edge driving into some wet ruddy gulch ,

o ur - where ponies , machine like but more reli

able than any machine , slid steeply upon

braced fours , into fainting depths and daunt

lessly up the opposite walls , keeping the

beeves in line .

Homeward bound , to show me more of the endless novelty we rode leisurely by a round about way that led through a stretch o f Kentucky bluegrass which would be a golfer ’ s paradise . This close lawn spread into the

o f most beautiful wood I have ever seen . It is thriving koa and Ohia lehua , and would serve fo r the scene Of legend or fairy tale . These lehua are of as great girth and height as the

21 0 THE NEW HAWAII

o n set out behind the saddles , and thus we , ff over an entirely di erent route , upon the return journey to the east coast .

Puaakala, roofed in red corrugated iron , was otherwise even more picturesque , more hand - made in appearance than the Pq O

- and - eyrie , even the washing bowl the bath tub f o ut o . being dubbed koa That tub , long and

o ne unavoid narrow and sloped at end , was

of c fli ably reminiscent a stout o n. The living room had an aged and mellow look, walled

- fille d with seasoned wood . There were well

o f o f bookcases and cupboards koa, stands rifles and shotguns , small koa tables bearing pots o f flowers ; and a large couch covered with a scarlet shawl that I fancied was an

heirloom . The open fireplace Shed its heat and glow upon the splendid woods , which gave

back the cheer . Cooking and serving were w done by another Nipponese cowboy, ith a

face like weathered mahogany , and whose

usefulness in the saddle had passed . He, as

o ur Ondera , busied himself with welfare and l comfort like an o d family nurse . Unlike

o f Ondera , various small replicas himself played charmingly upon the greensward with

o ut. BOAR HUNTING 1 1 W The low front lanai , reathed with honey

o f suckle, faced mauka . Makai the house we wandered o n foot at sunset through a sparse grove of koa rooted in uneven velvet turf pastured by Holstein Frisian and Hereford cattle that made blissful pastoral studies at every turn .

ko a That night, when I shut the panel that was my bedroom door, I became aware that Gauguin had not been the only painter who left his mark upon wood . I found on the inner side an Oil, manifestly not new , of a spray of akala berries and leaves . It had been done

1 8 8 2 o n as long ago as , a visit by Howard

Hitchcock , who has since attracted much f attention by his canvases o Hawaii . In a crisp dawn that tingled cheeks and

gloved fingers , we took to the homeward

- trail , fifty miles down mountain to the rail a ro d . There we were to board train for Hilo , leaving the cowboys to lead o ur animals back

Pq O o f to . It is the sort travelling that l on y a seasoned rider should undertake . Not

that it demands special horsemanship , for the

ponies are surefooted and docile . But the

approved gait is that steady j og - trot which

o ne must , with at least simulated composure , 21 2 THE NEW HAWAII

maintain to the bitter end . This for five times n ten miles , downhill at that , u relieved by even

and a stop for lunch , paced , mile in and mile

o ut , by chunky little Japanese whose one Obj ect and duty was to se e that we did not

o ur . miss train I , fortunately , was a

seasoned rider . But every foot o f the way was of a beauty t and interest never to be forgotten . The star , for instance did I say dawn It was barely more than the beginning of the end of morning

i sk tw light . The y was deep blue in contrast to a crescent moon bright as any star . The

- day grew , and beetling cloud masses , Slate blue , stood up , solid , the lightning streaking athwart, like fantastic mountains against the heavenly hyacinth dome . I almost listened for grand music to usher in this creation of a new day . Music there was not wanting ,

Of however , birds on earth and in the scintil

- lating air . Then a Gargantuan cloud zeppelin

iz sailed on its tremendous way above the hor on , raining reflected fire over a burning cloud - city o f sunrise upon a cobalt sea . How different the vision upon o ur left

’ shadowy Mauna Kea s snows flushing rosier,

’ shade by shade , to the sun s ardency ; but in

21 4 THE NEW HAWAII

around other tracts . Reforesting has been done by setting out eucalyptus . I saw some

- well grown groves , of a kind bearing blossoms t tha drenched the breeze with fragrance .

The last few miles , by highway along the f ocean bluf s , were painful , I will admit , but I was not the only seasoned rider who f dismounted stif ly and with groans . A short walk, and the restful trip to Hilo in open railway coach , put us into condition for a

dance . But I was bothered much by the sudden wrenching from transcendent heights o f which I had been a thankful and very humble part for the past days . It was hard again to tread town pavement , to gaze upon build ings of wood and stone instead of fronded tree and fern and the extravagant bulks of

’ God s mountains . Even when contemplating

’ o f - the Shipmans string motor cars , I harked back regretfully to my friends up yonder o n ’ — Mauna Kea s shoulder the funny, fuzzy , excellent philosophers , the square, true little horses o f Pq O . Yet fo r all the stupendousness o f my late

surroundings , and the wholesome excitements o f o f the chase , the memory it remained a quiet thing, something serenely happy . CHAPTER XII

THE VALLEY I SLE

’ T one O clock of another Hawanan morn

ing, this time a moonless one, I arrived at ” o n Lahaina , Maui , the Valley Isle , to spend

Christmas upon Haleakala Ranch . Prince Cupid was among the through passengers for

o f Honolulu, and I had the pleasure shaking — his hand once more for the last time , it was to b e . Despite his lifelong social experience

o f and the grace and charm his manner, I always noticed in it that something modest — and half- bashful not dissimilar to the impres sion often received by persons meeting Jack

London . The smiling Prince was bedecked — — with leis of plumeria awapuhi and there was a little throng o n the Hilo wharf to bid him Aloha in farewell .

Not long after we cleared Hilo Bay, the Mauna Kea ran into a succession of violent squalls , through which she threshed for more hours than were called for by her schedule .

’ But when the ship s boat made landing , it 21 5 21 6 THE NEW HAWAII

sk o f - was under a y low swung stars , and I

’ could make o ut the loom of West Maui s

valleyed heights .

The decks were early deserted , for reasons

such as sea- sickness or dislike o f squalls and

spray . But I had met a young English aviator touring Hawaii o n the strength o f

’ 3 my own Jack London and Hawaii , and we found the heaving, plunging , outdoor planking

o r — suited to u sailor taste . And more because o f my first book , Voyaging in Wild Seas

o f Snark (The Log the ) , he had left Lord

’ J ellic o e s New Z ealand cruiser, , on which he had been guest , in order to roam about the

Samoa I had described . While we tramped miles of decking that choppy night in the

’ o r channel , bit into the steward s excellent

salt horse sandwiches at midnight, we talked as only se a- travellers can of our delight in the South Seas . He had met near friends

’ o f Jack s and mine , white and brown Pa Ufi Williams and Charley Roberts , and Little and they had remembered the

Snark and her personnel , and read my books and sent love if he should ever come upon my trail . It was a pleasant meeting, and at parting I gave my new friend a letter to Jack ’ s

21 8 THE NEW HAWAII

fo r myself some o f the landmarks I know only

from books and hearsay . For o ne thing I want to visit the Lahainaluna Upper 1 8 31 Lahaina seminary, founded in by the

missionaries . It still flourishes , maintaining its

reputation as an excellent industrial school .

o n The land which it stands , seven hundred

Ho o ili feet above the town , was a gift from p

of Ho o ili of Wahine , wife p , Governor Maui . The original school opened in a temporary

o f lanai Shed kukui poles with thatched roof. Tuition was free ; but the scholars did what

work was required , and raised their own food . Among these early pupils o f the Reverend Lorrin Andrews were some of the finest young

o f men from the islands , many whom were

married . During the second year a stone building with grass roof was raised by the 1 8 33 students . In a very much worn printing outfit was acquired and placed in charge o f

Mr . Ruggles , with the aid of which school

books were printed . Here the first Hawaiian

Lama Hawaii newspaper was published , the Hawaiian Luminary preceding the Kumu

H aii . . aw , at Honolulu Mr Andrews prepared

the original Hawaiian grammar, and later

the Hawaiian dictionary . THE VALLEY ISLE 21 9

If there is one thing lovelier than sea- level

o n . Maui , it is her temperate zone I slept and woke for a month in the wing of a new

set house on the Haleakala Ranch , in thick wild lawns where before breakfast o ne romps barefoot with an adorable sprawl Of puppies .

old o f By day , it was the story of birdsong ,

of sunshine and Shifting shadow, illimitable

- - mountain rim above blue shadowed clouds .

nfla And rainbows . Such rainbows ! Co gratio ns of rainbows ; the air afire with drifting rainbows ; rainbows against cloud

O f o r rack West Maui ; , through a veil of

o f prismatic mist , all the centuried lapse

- green clothed lava below . Each morning my ow n pet rainbow faded o ut in a dewy meadow

o n just beyond my window . And once , a

’ Of saw day s ride fifty miles , I at sunset ,

o f old across a vast bowl pale green cane , an burial - ground turned into a glittering city o f

o f the dead , with a slanting Shaft rainbow piercing a low, leaden pall of cloud .

During that same day - long ride o n the

- mountain side , above the cactus plains , we could discern the island of Kahoolawe . And

sh e Armine told me how once had found , in

— so a rocky interstice , a tambourine utterly 220 THE NEW HAWAII o ld to that it fell powder in her fingers . Think of it happening to me ! the little lady cried delightedly, as we conj ectured whose hands had once jingled rhythm from its rim . The incident is sure to be fi c tio niz ed some day ;

- - for this young English Polish American ,

. Tem sk Armine von p y, has tried her small

h as hand at more than one novel . She a talent for focusing romance into readable English ; and I for one predict that we are going to have more stories of h er natal isles

she ( was born , her mother a Wodehouse , in the British Embassy in Honolulu) through her envisioning than have yet come to light . It is practically an unscratched field in fiction , except for short stories by a few authors , among them Jack London with certain collections , ” such as The House of Pride , On the ”

Makaloa . Mat , etc

O h ! . But sorrowful coincidence As I Sit , typing this manuscript in my state - room o n

- San Francisc o the Swedish motor ship , bound

via for Europe Panama Canal , a wireless message is handed me : Dad passed last night . And I lay down my work for the day , unable to put from me the grief o f that once

ks of merry , sunny household on the flan

222 THE NEW HAWAII retired into the fast - disappearing past o f such celebrations . On both dates , a swarm of men and women who had for years worked under Louis v o n Tempsky as manager o f the vast estate , came like retainers to share in the — holiday spirit Hawaiian , Portuguese , Chinese , f and Japanese . And all o them were keen to play their part in music and merriment o ut o n the lawns and lanais . I had enjoyed

- helping trim the Old fashioned great tree, and

from it everyone received a gift . In the house , millionaire employers and their families were at o ne with their upper employees in the

benevolent way we remembered of other years . Throughout dancing and supper there was much talk Of the New Year ’ s Day racing to

- - - b sea. come, at Kahului y the The New Year ball opened a new hall at

- the race track . In an ungu arded moment I had let fall that o ne o f my cherished childhood ambitions had been to ride a horse on a race

o n track . Promptly V had taken me up on

that , with the outcome that I was entered in

the Cow Girl contest o n fast polo ponies . Being accustomed to the English hunting

o n saddle , I demanded some practice the

- in prescrib ed cow boy tree . But almost THE VALLEY ISLE 223 cessant storms prevented much preparation ,

o n and none whatever the unused , soft race track .

On the great day , after dancing all night, I rode the race o n a horse and saddle I had

s never tried nor even een before , and over that new course SO deep in mud that several j ockeys had already been hurt from falling mounts . And worse, two rumoured dark horses proved to be rangy thoroughbreds .

Armine and I , indignant but pugnaciously

o n o ur determined , managed ponies despite n to pass second and third u der the wire, very close to the winner . I am inclined to think my horse would have had second place if I had not received an eyeful o f gravel so ex cruciating that I nearly went o ut fo r two o r three seconds at the psychological moment ff for making a special e ort . The other thorough

o ur bred was ignominiously at rear, along with the beaten ponies . All things considered , I never enjoyed a ride more . The continued wet and cloudy weather did not permit the camping trip into the mighty House Built by the Sun which I had so longed to repeat ; those who have read my

h o w description can judge much . Many were 224 THE NEW HAWAII — the features I wanted to see again not the

least Of them the shining silversword plant ,

which grows elsewhere only in the Himalayas . I was especially disappointed because the von Tempskys had some time previously made the stirring discovery of heians in many o f the

interior cones of the main crater . They had so far guarded their fascinating secret ; but in September of 1 9 20 they conducted to the

treasure - trove the scientists of the young

Polynesian Research Society . In all but two o f the entire Count of cones were found the ancient structures These were Of three — descriptions the first a kind of prayer heiau

o f the second a type burial heiau, the passing ” place of priests , in some of them skeletons still

" preserved . A third variety , of which there were dozens in more or less demolished con

o f dition , were the sort once used by Maui troops when they tried to hold Red Hill against an invading army from the Big Island .

The floor of one cone - crater held several small n heia s in a perfect state , while another bore nearly a dozen temples terraced upon its inner

of slopes . A slingstone antique pattern was the sole relic of its kind that they came upon . I cannot imagine any exploration in Hawaii

H N S S N OF N A APEPE FALL , I LA D LA AI THE VALLEY ISLE 225 more engrossing than this in Haleakala . I

o n shall cease not to burn for the chance,

o f horseback , to make at the side cone after cone, and gaze down for myself into these

Of evidences the past of Maui . Since that week ’ s horseback journey in

1 9 07 o n , through Haleakala and the Ditch

Trail beyond , a way has been devised for the tourist who would hike over this trail . He may go by automobile from Wailuku to

’ Pogue s , thence on foot, stopping overnight at a rest - house in Keanae Valley o f the water falls , to Nahiku on the coast . There a steamer calls . It is also possible to travel by rail from

Wailuku to Haiku , about nine miles from

’ Pogue s , and begin the tramp at Haiku . The railway terminus is the homesteading settle

t o ne of men , and the ride unique interest . CHAPTER XIII

THE KONA C OAST

NCE more in placid Hilo , I launched forth

o f for a new revelation Hawaii , namely , the

Kona coast in winter . Gone was what I have called the Blue Flush— that exquisite merging — o f Sky and sea except the Opalescent wraith

o f o r it at daybreak sundown . Instead , the

- horizon was keen as a steel blue knife , though

- at times hardly darker than the deep blue sky . Seldom was the ocean at all like the streaked mirror I rem em b eredfi Winds now blew fresh and stirred the surface into some semblance

Of f more turbulent waters o the group .

Upon the highway from the Volcano House, thence through the Kau district , we drove as

- close protected as in a tent, under warm deluging rain - flurries that lightened to misty showers shot with rainbows ; out o f rain curtain into blazing sunshine that tore splendid vistas in the dense clouds and to the

sea crawling indigo far below . Lava from

o ut underneath Kilauea had broken , a fine 226

THE NEW HAWAII sprays that arch an arbour over the garden

gate . I strolled down the broad stepping

- stones , flat volcanic flags , moss encrusted , edged with amaryllis and iris ; and then

wandered over the springy grass , aside into a the tree shadows , bre thing the heavy scents

o f plumeria, magnolia, and orange , my eyes full Of the creamy tints of their rich blooms

o f and the scarlet and coral tall hibiscus . The

deep loam in beds close to the house founda~

tions is given over to luxuriant tall begonias ,

crimson , pink , and blush , and many another plant that flourishes in this ardent c lime ; while the magenta bougainvillea clambers up i the . white p llars , screens the lanai , and banks

flin s out high upon its roof, from which it g its

of living rockets . In a leafy , damp ell the

building I came upon an Old well - top o f mossed cement that looked more like a beau tiful miniature mausoleum .

’ o n Outside the wall , Nature s terraces , I found uncultivated coffee with its red and green

’ - beans , glossy as Aladdin s orchard j ewels ; and

- kolu - the air plant cassia ( ) , with its pink tinged

o f is bells . This is a native Africa , and a

- l well known curiosity . Its eaf, allowed to lie n b o a ta le, will keep on growing from the THE KONA COAST 229

crenate notches along its edges , deriving life

— - from the air hence , air plant . It was to this very spot where now stands the Paris home that from early times the missionaries came as a health resort , when the coast had proved to o warm for their New

England blood . The Territory o f Hawaii is becoming more and more alive in every particular to its advantages , and is improving and conserving with steady enthusiasm . Reforesting is afoot , and o ne hears that groves of ornamental shrubs are being nursed , such as cinnamon , camphor, allspice , and other tropical spices that are sure to thrive here . ff Co ee raising in Kona , as in other sections

o n . of the Big Island , goes apace Spinning along the road that lies midway of these storied

o ne heights , looks down upon Kealakekua Bay

! o f and revels in the spirit the scene . All at once the musing eye is drawn to a bald Sign that seems to me the quintessence Of American enterprise

CAPTAIN COOK COFFEE COMPANY ,

’ - and one s air castle s crumble . I am sure that

v the head of this thri ing concern, who was 230 THE NEW HAWAII

exceedingly hospitable to us , will not mind if I say that I was reminded of a reputed Sign in Stratford - o u - Avon

THE O SHAKESPEARE SAUSAGE FACT RY .

The prospects of the tobacco industry in

Hawaii are excellent . The leaf has claimed for it the real tropical flavour and quality ,

9 classing, indeed, with Havana rather than

o ur with any of domestic brands . The 1 9 20 crop was disposed of to a New York

firm , who expressed faith that at no distant day the Hawaiian weed will occupy a permanent place in the American market . On the other side o f the island an entirely ffi different new tra c has started up . This is

of ! the milling of starch , and , all divine sources

- from the enchanting tree fern . Its heart con

- one tains twenty per cent of starch, and was once highly esteemed as a food , along with l . O aa taro , by the natives A mill at already is taking care o f the local consumption .

o f one During that week mine in Kona, novel and long- sought pilgrimage was o n horseback to Kaawaloa , where is the Cook monument . Although I had been there before, it was by canoe . The trail , with its historic

232 THE NEW HAWAII lineaments I have seen among the almost extinct Marquesans . So much for a human type that lingers behind my eyes . The scene that stamped itself

o f c - forever is the deep water, peaco k blue , at the foot of that dull - gold burial cliff which years before I had been dissuaded from investigating .

o f Here some grand specimens men , nude save for bright loincloths , and not a hat among

o f them , were fishing as Old from a small fleet f o savage black and yellow outrigger canoes .

The noonday sun beat hot upon them , and

skins glistened like wet copper and bronze .

Now and again a fixed, silent statue quickened and went overboard with perfect skill that left hardly a ripple upon the intensely blue

current . Then two o r more would pull in a tawny net , and spill into the canoe their

o f catch sentient silver . Or, if some were

of coloured fish inedible species , these were flung like autumn leaves back into their ele ment .

so uh Unwatched far as they knew,

o ne trammelled , wholly at with their native environment , unwittingly they gave me a

o f look into the past their kind . Trying to

on a e a make them live p per, I f el gain under THE KONA COAST 233

- u neath my tranced head the cast p spar ,

s n- of see u whitened , a forgotten wreck , and through drowsy lashes that Vision of the f golden age o Polynesia . Once more I listen

- to the desultory chatter and young , care free laughter of those children o f the sun who little knew o f their priceless gift to o ne white

o n sojourner their shore . Standing fo r the second time before the white

Shaft raised to Captain Cook , I was assailed by the old desire to test my climbing abilities

o n ff. the burial cli Nothing loath , the girls

’ accompanied me . One s enthusiasm , I warn , gradually wanes upon attacking the avalanched Shale that has hidden the base of the frowning pali . My heart pounded under the strain and the direct sunrays . And the reward , having surmounted obstacles to the foot o f the free

o f wall rock and earth , was scarcely worth the struggle , except for the satisfaction of knowing what o ne cannot see . The only excavations o r o f caves accessible without equipment ropes ,

- c oflins were long since robbed of canoe , bones , and other relics . From the pungent odour we judged that very alive goats had bedded there this long while . It was called the Pali Kapu o Keoua (tabu 234 THE NEW HAWAII — cliff of Ke o ua father o f Kamehameha the Great) and the remains of some o f the mightiest w arriors and chiefs were laid to rest within its f face . This was because the shores o Keala kekua Bay were a favourite rendezvous for the

Old fo r court , as well as residence the chiefs o f f the district and later o the island . These men , it would seem , wanted to lie near the

o f happiest scene their lives . Burials were conducted in extreme secrecy . One ponders

’ upon the method , for the precipice looks hope

of less scaling . The explanation is that bodies and their attendants were lowered from o n

o f high by cables the strong olona fibre , until they came opposite the hole selected . It is whispered that when the dead had been

out so properly placed , the ropes were that the

o n o r living, dashed the rocks below into the water might never divulge the secret abiding f place of any corpse . I am reminded o that mortuary peak I saw o n Nuka - Hiva in the

Marquesas , which was similarly used and which ,

o ur in time , was still guarded from desecration , if only by the disapproval o f the remnants o f the race .

Time was , in the decades of the past century , when it was believed by the islanders that any

CHAPTER XIV — NAPOOPOO A CHURCH FESTIVAL URS was the good fortune to be at Napoopoo o n Ke akakekua Bay for a

- rousing church convention song festival , part o f the Centennial Commemoration of Opuka

saw haia . There we doubtless and listened to the same fishermen who had disported them selves SO picturesquely under the maj estic cliff

Of the dead at Kaawaloa . We heard the best

o n — as voices the island pure , true , melodious ,

sat sweet as any in the world . I on a bench with my back to the singers , but more particularly to the glaring lanterns that hung under the

o f roof the Open shed , swinging my feet over a small surf and musing into the starry night . ” o ne What dreams may come , when revisits

’ lands where one s o w n rare romance has been

’ saw S ar s enacted . I thought I the n k head sails come questing through the gloom around

— o f the point my little Ship captured dreams . Upon the outskirts o f Napoopoo Village are

- i i the well preserved foundations Of H k au heiau . Here a monument to the famous young 236 NAPOOPOO 237

Hawaiian o f a hundred years ago was unveiled with day - long song and prayer and genuine

Hawaiian oratory , than which there is none more sonorous and musical . This temple ,

o f cleared debris , shows half a dozen Shallow

one terraces rising to the final Shrine . Here may examine the holes where stood the idol posts . In the middle of the level space is a divided wall enclosure . A Short distance south east Of the savage edifice one comes upon a small stone platform where was the house o f

’ O ukah aia s — I p uncle , with its family chapel

sa - Should y, heiau ; and two tall coco nut palms that the boy is supposed to have planted . The new monument stands hard against the

- Hikiau outer south west corner of the temple , that point being nearest to where Opukah aia

e had lived , and where he embarked quit literally for the bourne whence there was no return for him . The anglicized inscription follows IN MEMO RY OF HENRY OPUKAHAIA

Born in Kau 1 792 — Resided at NapOOpoo 1 797 1 8 08 Lived in New England until His Death at Co rnw all

C in 1 8 1 8 . onn . ,

His Z eal for Christ and Love for His People Inspire d the t r c B M s to i Firs Ame i an oard is ion Hawa i in 1820. 238 THE NEW HAWAII

Standing or sitting in the grass , without

ex er boredom hours on end , I listened to the

o f o f cises . The oratory the leaders , several

them Government Officials , was like strange

music . There is nothing these men would

rather do than launch into speech - making

upon public occasions ; and with reason , for

there is nothing they do better . They have

an instinct for the value Of emphasis , of pause ,

- Of . repose I was transported to Bora Bora ,

o f the Jolly Isle the Societies , and responded again in spirit to the ringing improvisations f o the Talking Men . Not the least among the speakers at Napo o

th at da o ur K poo y was good friend , Mr . awe u f b . o o f we i Some the Old men the district , perspiring patiently in resurrected frock coats

- that were moss green with age and damp , delivered themselves of word and gesture with volume and fervour that betokened they had

been long pent .

Between addresses , the choirs from various

churches and Sunday schools about the island ,

including every adopted race, were heard in

hymns and recitations . School songs were also

rendered , and I can only wish I had had reels

- the Of motion pictures , in colours , to preserve

240 THE NEW HAWAII

smile . The last time I ever spanked a child , it suddenly occurred to me to ask the little fellow if he knew why I had punished him .

’ ’

. ! . Yes , he blubbered Why, then said I

’ ’ c b i er n ! — Be ause you re gg me Why else ,

ne indeed when o comes right down to it . I have never laid hand o n a child since that day and I see no bad results from my changed ” policy . The collection plate was passed around by the Sheriff could that have been unpre meditated by the committee in charge I saw o f the flicker a smile , with lowered eyelids , f f o n the part o some o the Hawaiians . The last

sea- hymn died away upon the tepid breeze , and the amen of the final invocation to Deity

floated up to blue heaven .

so nl The summery concourse, solem y happy during the warm hours of attention , left chairs ,

the of benches , stones , sward, and walls the

of en ancient place sacrifice, and descended masse upon a huge feast in a half- open building

’ at water s edge . Preparations had been afoot for days . More than once, bound through for other bays , we had noted the bustling wahines and their menfolk, and passed the

’ time 0 day with them . That very morning IAO V EY S N OF MAI ' I ALL , I LA D

CHAPTER XV — KONA HONAUNAU COLONE L SAM

HERE is no part of the world I have so far viewed that remains so fascinating to me as Kona . Aside from its material loveliness

- from surf frilled coast to timberline , it is pervaded by a mysterious charm that links it with my Oldest dreams . Back in childhood,

o f in the beginnings personal memory , my dreaming at intervals took me upon a small mountain where dwelt a sophisticated people

f r who lived o pleasure . There were dark rooms

the b ut saw somewhere upon steep , though I

si nifi people in them , I never fathomed their g cance . The men and women in this little world

— - were my. own kind I saw no children b ut I seemed to wander among them in a sort o f

u n secl sion , with little or no attentio paid to me . For many years I had not thought of this land o f unconsciousness until that week in

1 9 20 o n the Paris Ranch . As soon as the

clover - leaf car had emerged upon the Kona terraces , its high ridge began to stir a remem 242 KONA 24 3 brance that led to the all but buried dream mountain . That skyline was a constant lure . The tender wedges of young papaia groves and other crops , fingering into the primeval

o f forest , did not lessen the impression familiarity with Older visits than my actual former ones here . By daylight and by dark the whole prospect retained its unreality .

Twilight and dawn lent the mountain - side a perpendicularity , the depressions and shadows caverns of mystery . In the eerie gloaming o ne was almost afraid to find the ghostly heights impalpable .

Of course , I revisited Kailua where the f Snark once fanned in at dead o night . There

Kamehameha had died , and there the first missionaries set foot upon the land of their holy adventure . The chief then resident

Kuakine at Kailua, , came popularly to be ” called Governor Adams , from a fancied resemblance to President Adams of the United ”

K akine . . u States , says the late Dr Sereno ” E . Bishop in his Reminiscences of Hawaii , ! was disposed to monopolize such trade as came from occasional whalers . He pos sessed large quantities of foreign goods stored up in his warehouses , while his people went 24 4 THE NEW HAWAII

f naked . I often heard my father tell o once

’ seeing one o f Kuakine s large double canoes loaded deep with bales o f broadcloths and Chinese silks and satins which had become

damaged by long storage . These were carried

’ 7 out and dumped in the ocean . (Our modern white savage dumps into the water quantities

of good fruit , first sticking a knife in it , to keep

- up the market price . ) Probably they had been purchased by the stalwart Governor with the sandalwood which in the ’ twenties was

o f such a mine wealth to the chiefs , but soon ” became extirpated .

By far, to me , the most outlandish thing in Kona is a Small Catholic church that clings to

of the precipitous land . Some priest the past had decorated every inch o f the chapel with his conception o f the Hereafter . I must say that his sense O f fitness kept the interior in

fo r key with native surroundings , the wooden

- pillars simulate coco palms , their fronds spreading upon the blue ceiling . The painted trunks are scrolled in the native with hopeful ” prophecies , such as You are going to hell . The tormented souls depicted o n the right hand wall are indubitably Hawaiian , with

24 6 THE NEW HAWAII I was Very anxious to learn if that new three miles o f automobile road across the lava from Napoopoo had been the means of altering

of the native character Honaunau , where is the greatest of all the heians . I record with thanksgiving that as yet such is not to any grave extent the case . Formerly one had to travel there by saddle from the heights . And now, even by the petrol route , the pilgrim may still find a bit of as real Hawaii as probably

- anywhere to day in this group . Myself, I spent a perfect day , the abominable fumes and

f - noise o gas cars excepted . The church c o n v ention , welcoming their opportunity , motored

o vere n masse . , but did not linger From what

o f I Observed , not a Hawaiian was guilty the slightest levity within the pagan precincts of his ancestors . The city of refuge at Honaunau on the west coast of Hawaii has Since been taken over by the Territory from the Bishop estate, being created a part Of the National Park . I will repeat from my former description that the heiau covers nearly seven acres . Its walls , still intact , measure a dozen feet in height and — eighteen in thickness the Tower o f London is not so much larger - and in olden times KONA 24 7 embraced sanctuary for uncounted fugitives from the wrath of their fellows . The Temple forms a lordly man - made promontory upon

- a low cape of lava , relieved by tall coco palms that wave their plumage at entrancing angles for any who would sketch . It is a mammoth

o f pile mystery every stone , small and great ,

O f a secret laid by the hands of men born women , and who loved , and fought , and manfully toiled , and now are cosmic dust . Why were the walls built so thick There were no f colossal engines o war to withstand . New

o f holes , dug into the tops of the rocky sides the structure , indicate where the Bishop Museum is conducting further research into this broken citadel that piques the imagination far beyond available legend . Umbilical cords were placed in interstices of the rocks and sealed with small stones . To this day many a modest Hawaiian maiden o f Christian beliefs and modern culture could admit , if She would , that her parents had dedicated to the huge altar o f their forefathers such souvenir of their pride and lingering sense of romance and reverence for hereditary custom . I wonder, left to themselves in this a lotus l nd , how long it would take these 24 8 THE NEW HAWAII

islanders to revert . I wonder, equally , how

- long we dominant white faces , given that

same gentling environment , would need to retrogress Jack London played with this ” theme in The Scarlet Plague , though in

the temperate California climate . He gave

the white men about a generation .

Still Spoken o f half- laughingly by hapa

haoles is a racy episode in the pre - Christian

’ o f Kaahum anu s — sh e stage career , the favourite wife o f Kamehameha before referred — to when sh e fled the consequences of her

’ lord s wrath following an amorous escapade .

o ut r They point , in the great enclosu e , the

- tilted , roof like stone under which the fascin

ating and capricious queen took sanctuary .

— A sweet spot, Honaunau removed as far from the restless workaday world as may be

in a machine age , considering its nearness

to . the continent As all over the island, the

old o f women , reminded my identity , caressed

me almost reverently for my widowhood . They remembered Jack London o f the sea grey eyes , and sunny curls as recalcitrant

o w n as their , and that he wrote understand ” in l . g y of their people A good man , they

250 THE NEW HAWAII

- bays . On a moss green islet stood a native

— a fi urm e boy, in perspective mere Tanagre g , tarnished with vert reflections . In his hand

- of - was a snow white crust coco nut, and

- motionless he poised watching a green crested ,

- no z zlin red webbed duck g in the shallows .

Not o ff - ruffled - far , in a wind , reef sheltered pool , swam a dozen men and women . They wore respectively loincloths and white o r red muumuus , and threshed the water, brilliant blue even close inshore , with overhand breast strokes from brown arms smooth - shining against the lava background Of rougher bronze surface . The unrestrained laughter and exclamations

e were too much for me , and I w nt out upon the piled lava shore for a nearer View of their

sat gambols . While I , feet trailn in the

- brine washed sand , a sumptuous wahine

- strolled by with the correct , straight front port of the heaviest Hawaiians . With the

o f diffi slightest recognition my presence , a dent reticence Often mistaken for hauteur, sh e rested at a distance , filled and smoked a small pipe at her ease , the while carelessly studying a salt eddy near by . k B D Pipe emptied, it and her sac of ull urham HONAUNAU 25 1 were tucked j auntily into the band o f a tattered straw of home - weave that tilted at a killing angle over her pretty eyes and saucy nose .

The up- ended back of the brim gave view of a generous toss o f curls that made me envious o f her probable ignorance of its beauty .

With hand - net and bag sh e commenced

se a- hunting for food in the sandy places , planting her unshod feet on lava hummocks as squarely and ponderously , with her great f o . ankles , as might a quickened idol stone

sh e s When ventured in above the knee , her

floating red holoku revealed limbs like trunks , laughably fat , yet pleasantly proportioned . A bevy of young women came wading in

out from their swim , Shaking yards of splendid hair to dry in the sun along with their dripping — muumuus hair abundant , not coarse , breaking

- rin letin into red bronze wavelets , g g at the long ends and about face and neck as if in f f sheer celebration o Vital life . Some o these wahines and their men converged where a swift current poured through a wee channel from one rocky pool to the next , and began netting coloured fish . Joining them and my

- in - friends , half and half out in the drifting sand and - k milk warm water, I loo ed on at the sport . 25 2 THE NEW HAWAII Do you know that they ’ re hunting for the right fish for your luncheon Margaret

whispered to me . Repeating to the fishers in their tongue what sh e had said to me in

c mine, they all giggled like hildren , lowered their eyelids with the movement that caresses

the cheek with the lashes , and bobbed their

heads in delighted confusion . I swam and frolicked in the racing brine ;

- and once , floating face down , I spied a long

- shadow that sent me , half panicky, half

to of laughing , to win safety ahead an imagined

- shark . But the natives knew that no sea tiger

- b a lets and comes into these lava rimmed y , I j oined in the rippling explosion o f mirth that

isc fit r went up at my unnecessary d om u e . I resumed my luxurious palm - frond couch

- in the coco nut grove , ready for luncheon .

see I glanced up to a handsome , elderly

Hawaiian , with leonine grizzled mane and

o f wide eyes soft black, who approached f ’ with the grand air o a queen s minister . In

his shapely hand was a large leaf, and upon this sylvan platter lay freshly snared game o f

- flesh ed the acceptable varieties , white , cleansed f and sliced raw to about the size o my palm . Not a Smile marred the high respectfulness of

254 THE NEW HAWAII — their blood with the Caucasian or any other — blood for that matter , I do believe only seems to fix the admirable qualities of the n n Hawa a aborigine .

One of the most noted of the Part - Hawanans died shortly after I left for California . This was Colonel Samuel Parker, conspicuous figure

of in the last courts the old monarchy, and

o ne of c since, as its most picturesque haracters and great spendthrifts ; a man accounted remarkable by those of more than many

r count ies , for his extraordinary good fellow

of ship , the gracious kindliness his heart ,

of and his grandeur physique and address .

w as saw o ne A fine gentleman he , if ever I , courtly in manner yet bearing himself with

that careless , debonair sweetness with which o ne so rarely has the privilege of coming in

. o wn contact My father, Captain Willard

o ld ff Kittredge (from East Su olk stock) , bore

o f the same sort charm , and I was Often reminded of him when in the company o f

Colonel Sam (Kamuela) , in his house or

’ 1 9 1 5 . Jack s , those palmy days Of at Waikiki s 1 9 1 9 20 . He died on March , Les than a week before that he had pressed my hand in fare well . COLONEL SAM 25 5 The seven days in which the body lay in

Ka iolani his house in p Park , where he had peacefully slipped into unconsciousness , was characteristic of the stately observ ance attend

’ ing Hawaii s distinguished dead . The spacious

- living room was strewn with orchids and roses ,

- its walls entirely covered . Four hour watches , by daylight and dark , were kept by members o f the Chiefs of Hawaii , who first sent a tabu stick of deep yellow Chrysanthemums to stand at the head . At the foot hung the faithful

Of of replica a feather cape , made the same

- royal hued blossoms , with a pattern traced

I - n blood red carnations .

For o ne o f night, in regal splendour real

- ahuu la yellow feather mantle ( ) , and feather

- sat lei upon her blue black hair, there Princess

Kaw ananakoa a o f David (Abigail) , picture

’ mourning, at the head of her stepfather s c oflin . Behind her was a young Hawaiian maiden ; and to right and left a couple o f helmeted warriors , each with upright spear in hand, stood motionless . Between these and two similar impressive figures at the foot o f the dead chief were ranged , on either Side , the highest in rank o f the Daughters o f Warriors i n full regalia . 256 THE NEW HAWAII

u Certain ancient men and women , with n faltering discipline in the matter o f chiefly

o f precedence , maintained the ceremonial that

o f Splendidly sombre week honour to the alii .

or The music , chanted , played upon ukulele

and guitar, that wove softly into the spirit

o f o ld e of the occasion, was mostly mel s the

of days the monarchy . In contrast to these traditional rites was

one of of day service by the Church Christ ,

Scientist , in whose faith this man had gone

its to sleep . His Masonic Chapter also held

ceremony . Colonel Parker ’ s body was taken home

o n . to Mana the Parker Ranch There, beneath

o f the cypresses the quaint family graveyard ,

o f thousands feet up Mauna Kea , his casket ,

swathed in the choicest blooms that grow ,

was laid in the vault with his first wife ,

Panana, and their daughter, Hattie .

to o A little story , and I am done . It is gentle a thing, too simple and illuminating

f of and o the past and present Polynesia, all mankind , to lay aside with the countless notes no book o f reasonable length can encompass . It comes to me through o ne who accompanied

Of the funeral party, composed representatives

25 8 THE NEW HAWAII

’ canoe, to marry Sam s father, Eben Parker, at

sh e old Kawaihae and when was , in her was a great longing to see again her Old home

. sh e in Hana , and her people And must go

sh e in a canoe, as had come forty years before .

set out She in the canoe , and was never heard

— sh e o f from was guide that night , and sent Kahaleah u to give me the Sign that the Boy

ka keiki ( , her boy) should come safely ashore at Mahukona .

Now Sam Parker, to his retainers , had never been Sam (Kamuela) , in the usual native

ka keiki way , but was always referred to as (the B oy) even at forty years and over ; that

of being, in their code , a mark attention to superior birth . To the prophecy o f the Vision The Mauna

’ Kea s pitching and rolling began speedily to

sh e abate , and in due course came to anchor

O ff Lahaina in an unrippled calm , to send ashore and take aboard passengers and freight .

sk This calm , under a cloudless y, continued clear to Mahukona, where the landing from

’ ships boats is habitually made diflic ult by a t heavy swell , and passengers mus watch their chance to avoid a ducking when leaping from

not boat to j etty . Do I know Never, in all COLONEL SAM 25 9

’ - the dreamer s inter island voyaging , girl and

sh e of woman , had known the water this open roadstead so like a millpond . It was

5 sign . a Up the long incline , at Kahu , Colonel

’ son- in- Sam s law , Frank Woods , had a great

fire burning, and fine mats spread to receive

’ the casket of his wife s Sire ; while in another room an abundant feast o f funeral baked — meats was spread pig, and fowl , and fish , and all that goes therewith in this goodly land .

of sat After partaking it, the mourners out the night , amongst the flowers , with their dead ; and in the morning they started upon their long

’ Ko h ala s journey over mountains to Waimea ,

’ o n up Mauna Kea s giant flank to Mana and

o f the house death .

not It was a vision , a dream , they main

sa tain . And why not Sam died , they y,

o n o f the anniversary of the birth Panana ,

’ ” his youth s bride . And was not that nineteenth day o f March also the anniversary o f the death Of their first daughter What would yo u CHAPTER XVI

MY FAREWELL

AME ten whirlwind days o f reuniting with

friends in Honolulu , and then my sailing

- Of Mrs . date . I was house guest Senator and — Robbie Hind she the sister o f our Mary

e Low . Th ir town residence was set upon a newly developed terrace behind the beautiful

of city, where the way hospitality was as bountiful and lovable as ever upon the great cattle range at Puuwaaw aa on the Big Island . These successful ranchers o f Hawaii are as ready with brain and tongue in the legislative halls as with hand and eye, rope and saddle , in their mountain wilds . Here is a fresh item

The Ho olulu Adver iser— from n t Eben Low, who h ad once had a hand twisted o ff when

our roping a steer, being brother to Mary

Cattle from the Raymond Ranch on Maui which were brought to Honolulu about two ’ O clock in the morning o n an inter - island 260

262 THE NEW HAWAII m far away in y home ocean, and I can always look forward to returning . On the big wharf was scarcely standing room for the horde come to God - Speed the

of Ship . The faces the passengers were regret

o f ful , no matter what their pleasure home going . Bedecked with wreaths , they struggled through the flowery crush ! to reinforce the crowded steamer rails that appeared like tiered garden walls .

- to - The embracing was over, the eyes eyes of farewells that tried to remain composed . A friend who had at the end taken charge of - breasting a way for me to the gang plank, handed me through the gate with a last Aloha ! I was smothered to the eyes with

o f the rarest leis roses , violets , plumeria , proud ilima, and all . It being a warm March fore

of noon, and the weight flowers very palpable, o ne felt much as if in a perfumed Turkish

bath .

Leaning over the topmost rail, striving to

locate faces in the dense pack , I realized again

o f all the sweetness my welcome and parting .

Diffidentl y, desolately, I had approached Our

. so Hawaii AS I had been welcomed for two,

I de arted fo r tw o tw o . , p and my speeding was MY FAREWELL 263

w as fold . And now in my heart gratitude and happiness for the renewed love and trust that made it My Hawaii .

O ff The hawsers were cast , the band melted

! ” Oe O f into Aloha , the streams serpentine began to part and blossoms to fly, as the liner got under way . Something made me glance

- f down at the stringer piece o the pier . A handsome Hawaiian youth stood looking aloft at me in mute distress , holding up fathoms of pink cable made from stripped carnations .

He had failed to get aboard with them in time .

Kalaka a Kaw anan k It was u a o a. Princess

David had sent him in her stead , for I had made her promise sh e would not brave the

o f exhaustion the merry mob .

o f Then I lost track the vivid young face .

' o ne o f A few moments later, the music boys

o f came to me bearing the royal ropes flowers ,

Kalakau a five inches in diameter , which had somehow contrived to land o n the lower deck across the widening gap . Still unable to detect him among the myriad , I swung the wondrous

o ut its lariat , letting yards about my ilima garlanded head , that he might know the loving

o ld gift was safely mine . With the sob in the

’ throat , again I recalled Jack s words , that last 264 THE NEW HAWAII time I had stood beside him at the same

’ steamship s rail : Of all lands of joy and beauty under the sun.

To its people , then , and to their land , My

Own Hawaii , I give this book , with Aloha pau Ole ( ! Love without end

- San Francisco E Aboard Swedish motor ship , bound for ngland , J anuar 1 1923 y , .