MONTE AMIATA: rocks and spirituality between the Tuscan hilltops On top of Maremma 1 LALA NATATURA IN PERPERSOSONNA www.turismoinmaremma.it 2 Montagna incantata, montagna di bronzo sacra agli etruschi, isola in terraferma. Enchanting mountain range, bronze mountain Etruscans considered sacred, mainland island. 3 Extremely ancient extinct volcano, the Amiata area is entrancing with its eye- catching views and millenary secrets. Some call it a mountain, others a mount; while the former stresses the feminine and maternal aspects, the delicate and light lines, the latter, on the other hand, underlines its ruggedness, the narrow gorges, the ravines, the rock faces. A double, androgynous face which also transpires from its mythical patrimony: tender love legends (il Prato della Contessa, la bella Antiglia), miraculous and salvifi c appearances (la Madonna di Lamula, la Vergine della Carità, the stories of San Bernardino), Th en strong and fi ery legends where the characters are demons (la schiaccia del Diavolo), dragons and monsters (il Drago della Selva or il mostro di Semproniano), blasphemers and criminals (Camicione and Giovagnolo). A land Amiata where each historical period has left its imprint: pile dwellings, prehistoric areas, traces of Roman villas, venues where magicians and paladins stayed (the cave of Merlin the Wizard); fortresses and towers and medieval castles (the Fortress of Montelaterone, the Aldobrandesco Castle in Arcidosso and Potentino in Seggiano, 4 the Fortress of Silvana, the Castle of Triana); noble and austere Renaissance buildings (Palazzo Nerucci in Castel del Piano and Palazzo Sforza Cesarini in Santa Fiora, Villa Sforzesca in Castell’Azzara); then eighteenth and nineteenth century squares and road widenings to fi nally reach the modernization of the twentieth century hand in hand with the mining culture. An agglomeration of homes nestled on hilltops and fairy-tale summits: like Roccalbegna, perfect blend of natural phenomena (the “sasso” rock tower), workmanship (the magic castle hanging over the Stronghold) and art (Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Luca di Tommè, Francesco Nasini). Or Rocchette di Fazio (Semproniano), miraculouslyly hanging over the gorges of the Albegna river.ver. Or Montelaterone: from onene eendnd iitt llooksooks like it’s about to fall over thee toptop ofof thethe spurspur supporting it and from aboveve it lookslooks llikeike an extremely solid frameworkork for all homes which cram up one against tthehe ototherher titillll they reach the fortress at thee very top.top. And everywhere you’ll fi nd Romanesque parish churches,es, Renaissance churches, convents, artworks, ancient, historically valuable itineraries still visible; these paths can still be seen and rrecallecall the pilgrimages which led too Rome thousand of years ago.o. Towns and villages set like jewels, tiny art coff ers: like the magnifi cent ceramics by Della Robbia kept in the Parish Churches of Sante Flora and Lucilla of Santa Fiora, the many paintings by Nasini which every town boastS and which can be especially seen by visiting Castel del Piano. In the villages (Grosseto’s Amiata area has eight town councils) which surround the Amiata volcanic cone opposite the springs, the works of art chiseled by famous artists rise side by side those of the anonymous creators of the urban plan. Th e use of local stone, peperino carved and friezed by expert hands, is the material used for the special buildings and monuments of this land: castles and seigniorial and plebeian homes, but also fountains, wells, obelisks, monuments, votive tablets, so visitors can follow this distinctive line on the discovery of the material and imagination world of this mountain as well. As an example, the evocative capitals of the Pieve di Lamula (crossroad between Arcidosso, Montelaterone, Castel del Piano), where warriors and symbols, bonds and plots, cavaliers and animals, are interwoven just like in a enigmatic bestiary. Often springs and wells still spout next to the parish churches and convents or their ruins, testifying pure devoutness for water which fl ows to quench the thirst of the Amiata, Maremma and Sienese regions and to celebrate this wealth, customs and feasts were created with 6 legends and fables handed down through Together with the cult of water, of fi re, rose generations. a pagan strength to destroy evil, evoking Poets and mystics came here for inspiration ancient spells and initiation rituals. (Giovan Domenico Peri, seventeenth A strong sense of religion based on century country poet of the enchanting anything natural, part of an emotionally mountain, would read his poems at the charged mysticism which has always Fonte del Poeta in Arcidosso,) and oratories enveloped this corner of Tuscany with its and sacred shrines were built over the “antique heart,” to adopt an expression by stretch of spring waters. Padre Ernesto Balducci, fi ne intellectual from Santa Fiora, one of the greatest men of this land. Mysticism represents another itinerary truly identifying the Amiata region which today has become a romantic core, bringing together religions and philosophies which coexist without confl ict. So you will not be surprised to fi nd ancient ruins facing the David Lazzaretti tower in Monte Labbro (Lazzaretti had tried to build an egalitarian society inspired by Christian values by the end of the nineteenth century and for this reason, was killed in 1878). Nearby, the Tibetan community of Dzog Chen di Merigar, which chose Monte Labbro as its headquarters. All lying under the iron Cross set on top of Monte Amiata and built at the beginning of the twentieth century, a witness to the secular Catholic tradition which brought saints and mystics to the mountain: from Santa Caterina da Siena (the homes where she lived still stand in Montegiovi and Monticello), to San Bernardino to San Francesco. And amongst the crosses, those which preacher Baldassarre Audibert planted as banners representing penance and salvation. He dotted crossroads and summits, towns and countrysides with many wooden signs of Christ all dated 1846 and stuck to the ground with a peperino base. Currently, other itineraries have been added to those from the past and aim to valorize the environmental and enogastronomic resources with many discoveries to be made: from the museum course to the National Park of the Mines, to the Road for sampling 8 Local Products (oil from the “Dop Olivastra Seggianese, Doc wine of Montecucco, Igp chestnuts, mushrooms, cheeses, cold cuts, typical dishes, sweets, bread) on the discovery of natural reserves, animals, fl ora. Meander through the paths which run across the heart of the mountain either by car, foot, bicycle or horse. A wide range of choices for those who wish to discover a territory, to learn about its history and traditions, especially with the intent of taking a part of it with them back home. Arcidosso Th e center of town which builds up to a to Merope Becchini. Near Arcidosso, there’s pyramid made of homes and narrow alleys, the Castle of Montelaterone, fi rst to be built culminates with the Aldobrandesco Castle (the in the western Amiata region, (1004 a.C.) and primitive center dates back to the eleventh evocative and intact villages like Stribugliano, century) and the three churches San Niccolo, Zancona, Macchie, Salaiola. San Leonardo and Sant’Andrea are interesting examples of the Romanesque style. Inside the castle you will fi nd the David Lazzaretti Center for Studies and the Fauna Park’s Visitor Center. Th e Sanctuary of the Ma- donna Incoronata (fi fteenth-sixteenth centuries) is outside the town walls on the road leading to Montelaterone. Further on down, surrounded by chestnut groves, you will run into the Parish Church Santa Maria ad Lamulas, extremely fi ne example of Romanesque art. Mid way between Arcidosso and Castel del Piano you will fi nd the Convent of the Cappuccini friars with paintings by Vanni and Nasini and the early twentieth century small chapel dedicated 10 Castel del Piano Th e town has a medieval historical center fi fteenth century churches (Churches of San with fourteenth century walls which still Niccolò e Lucia and Madonna delle Grazie). stand and are viable and the churches of Th ey host highly valuable paintings and San Leonardo and S.S. Sacramento and next furnishings including the fi fteenth century to Porta dell’Orologio you’llou’ll fi nd plateplate MadonnaMadonn delle Grazie by an artist Palazzo Nerucci, aristocraticratic whowho was part of the Sano di Pietro palace in the renaissancece school.school In Corso Nasini there style (mid sixteenth isis ththe San Giuseppe Oratory century). Palazzo Neruccicci hostingho valuable artworks hosts the Museum of byb Francesco Nasini. Ancient Art (many JustJ outside the town, artworks of the the small Romanesque Nasini family of church of Santa Lucia. painters and a self In addition, there are portrait by Rosalba other typical medieval Carriera and more) centersc like Montegiovi and modern art (a andan Montenero d’Orcia, collection of posters andd todaytod renown village for its paintings by Edo Cei). productionprodu of Montecucco oil Piazza Madonna has twowo and wiwine.n 12 Castell’Azzara It’s highest town of the Monte Amiata Grosseto region at 809 meters a.s.l. Facing the Valle del Paglia, Castell’Azzara has been the mining town par excellence (the area is full of cinnabar Still visible, the octagonal plan, the tower, and even attracted the Etruscans from the the ruins of the seigniorial palace and the Sovana area), a part of history which has town wall sections. been currently documented by the Cornacchino Galleries open to visitors. Worthy of note, the sixteenth century Villa Sforzesca which was recently fi nely restored and Rocca Silvana next to Selvena, fortress of great strategic importance owned by the Aldobrandeschi family. 14 Cinigianonigian Main hinge between the Amiata and Maremma regions, the Cinigiano town council comprises the small villages of Sasso d’Ombrone, the medieval castle of Colle Massari and the famous Montecucco Factory which has given its name to the valuable Doc wine; Poggi del Sasso and Monticello Amiata follow.