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Issue No. 192 Friday, October 09 - Thursday, October 22, 2015 ORDER DELIVERY TO No end to Sremski BEMUS YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 austerity Karlovci: where headlines busy [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 for Serbian tourism masks culture month in INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 seniors misery Belgrade

Page 5 Page 9 Page 10 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Early Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in , i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser

Serbian MPs ‘unable to election - - -

talkNEWS alarms monitor surveillance ops’ Serbian

Experts warn MPs businessNEWS lack powers and

Early elections “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: technical knowl- party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. edge to control serve little purpose and are surveillance oper- page 10 ations, amid fresh likely to slow down claims of unlaw- both investment and reforms, ful wiretapping. hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - economists and a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W Igor JOVANOVIĆ managers say. June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, ublic confidence in Ser- bia’s security services Katarina MARKOVIĆ has been shaken after Stevan VELJOVIĆ page 5 the opposition Demo- cratic Party leader, Bojan year-and-a-half into its Pajtić, claimed last week present mandate, the Phis private telephone calls had been winners of 2014 early unlawfully intercepted. parliamentary elec- conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the Pajtić made the allegation after a tions are considering After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party Serbian news website, Teleprompter, inviting voters to go to E published on September 30th what ap- Athe polls once again. peared to be a transcribed private call Elections could be held in the next few between Pajtić and Lidija Udovički, for- months at the same time as regular elec- mer manager of the US firm Continen- tions for the municipalities and in the Friday • June 13 2008 tal Wind Partners. northern province of Vojvodina, reports Citing anonymous sources “close say. to security services”, Teleprompter Speculation about an early vote claimed the transcript was based on a gained more credibility following heated THIS ISSUE OF wiretapped conversation Pajtić had 18 arguments between the ruling Serbian Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED months ago. Progressive Party and opposition Demo- on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic cratic Party, and public disagreements which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T between ministers in the government. Continued on page 3 The Pajtić affair is just the latest in a series of allegations by politicians and officials that they have been unlawfully wiretapped. Photo by Beta Most Progressives support early elec- tions, but their leader, Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić, has postponed a deci- sion for mid-October until receipt of the Retrials expose flaws in European Commission’s Progress report. On October 1st, Vučić explained his dilemma, arguing there many reasons Croatia's 'war on corruption' exist to go to the polls early, “including the current atmosphere in public and Croatia’s much-vaunted ‘war on corruption’ ap- has called into question the ability of Numerous laws were changed, spe- the need to check the support of political Croatian courts to prosecute high-level cialist anti-corruption units were estab- options”. pears to falter after Supreme Court overturns corruption cases and Zagreb’s widely- lished within the courts and the Office for “The main reason against elections is praised ‘war on corruption’ as a whole. Suppressing Corruption and Organised the [need for] continuation of economic second conviction of former PM Ivo Sanader. All of which will likely prove highly Crime, USKOK, was granted more powers reforms, economic consolidation and embarrassing for Croatia, not least be- to prosecute alleged corruption cases. restructuring of public enterprises,” he Sven MILEKIĆ The convictions, the result of two cause the anti-corruption push had Kosor was even compared to Ger- added. separate trials that concluded in 2014, been hailed by international media man Chancellor Angela Merkel in her Talk of possible elections follows roatia launched it’s have since been quashed by higher and politicians as a role model for the commitment to fighting corruption in praise for the government’s reforms. widely-praised ‘war courts and retrials ordered. Sanader region and beyond. government by the Financial Times In August, the IMF revised the projec- on corruption’ in the could now be released from custody on After Sanader stood down from office Deutschland newspaper. tion for Serbia’s GDP growth upwards wake of a series of gov- payment of a €1.6 million bail bond. in 2009, his deputy, Jadranka Kosor, be- Princeton University in the US pub- from -0.5 to 0.5 per cent of GDP and ex- ernment scandals, the The Sanader trials were the biggest came prime minister and was handed lished its Cleaning House: Croatia pressed satisfaction with the progress most controversial of and most controversial corruption cas- responsibility, along with the state at- Mops UP High Level Corruption 2005- made in macroeconomic stability and whichC saw former Prime Minister Ivo es ever to be heard by Croatian courts. torney office, for overseeing the govern- 2012 report in April 2013. fiscal consolidation. Sanader convicted of abuse of office, The fact his convictions were over- ment’s large-scale battle against corrup- accepting bribes and war profiteering. turned on grounds of procedural errors tion. Continued on page 8 Continued on page 7

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 09 - Thursday, October 22, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 09 - Thursday, October 22, 2015 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Serbia expects tough Continued from page 1 SALE OF fight over Kosovo PRESSCOMMENT REVIEW EQUIPMENT UNESCO bid UNREGULATED

Serbian foreign minister Ivica Experts also warn that communica- Dačić said that Belgrade is about Serbian tion interception systems can be pur- to experience a “great battle” at chased by private companies, which the Executive Board and General I am still proud of could put state interests at risk.

Assembly of UNESCO in order to Serbia in brief stop Kosovo’s attempt to join this “Unfortunately, that equipment is th MPs ‘unable now available to private companies organization. On October 12 , it th will be known whether Kosovo too, and the state could be endangered will be on the agenda of the Ex- because someone might also listen in ecutive Board and whether it will October 5 to monitor on the president and prime minister receive the majority of votes for and, based on that, jeopardize state se- st joining UNESCO on October 21 . We achieved It is very important to have those cir- curity,” Šutanovac said. “A big battle is ahead of us be- cumstances in mind because I feel that Criminologist Nikolić agrees there is cause western states are putting a lot of pressure on the countries our main goals they are either being ignored or forgot- surveillance a risk. who haven’t recognized the ten. “The Serbian ur- independence of Kosovo in order 15 years ago Personally, I felt the same on this Octo- gently needs to open a special depart- to make them not vote against ber 5th as I did feel that morning on Octo- ment that will deal exclusively with Kosovo. In this vote, abstentions – too bad we ber 5th - that we had no alternatives. What ops’ those who use surveillance equip- do not count, only votes for or was to happen to Serbia if Milošević ment illegally. The equipment may against, so the simple majority wasted so many stayed in power? My predictions were now also be procured by companies wins,” Dačić told the media. that after wars with everybody around nterior Minister Nebojša Stefanović “I asked that a provision be added to outside of the state system and that opportunities us, we would end up with a war between and Aleksandar Đorđević, head of the law, that if a court rejects the BIA di- must be prevented immediately,” Number of Serbian ourselves. I cannot take anyone serious- the Serbian Security Agency, BIA, rector’s measure, that the service must Nikolić said. asylum seekers in decreases after that. ly who claims that it would have been denied any involvement in unlaw- inform the citizen who had been the Šutanovac called for the founding better for Serbia had Milošević contin- ful wiretapping, with Stefanović subject of the measures. That would pre- of a special, independent agency that Serbian citizens have filed 1,982 ued in power. promising an investigation into the vent the abuse of legal measures, but my would be “a provider for the covert con- asylum requests in September As part of the non-violent movement claims.I amendment was not adopted in parlia- trol of telephone conversations, inter- in Germany, the German Federal Otpor, we were fighting for three goals: The Pajtić affair is just the latest in a ment,” he said. ception of emails or of any other form agency for migration and refu- fair and democratic elections, Serbian series of allegations by politicians and of electronic communication”. gees report says. Serbia has thus membership of the EU and an end to officials that they have been unlawfully ‘MPs LACK TECHNICAL “That [independent] agency could shown a trend of reducing the conflict in the region. wiretapped or subject to other surveil- KNOWLEDGE’ not employ more than 10 people or so number of requests comparing If you look at Serbia today, for the last lance measures. Even Serbia’s Prime Min- and would not have the option of lis- to the number in August, when 15 years we have had democratic elec- ister, Aleksandar Vučić, claimed in 2012 In addition, analysts and officials, -in tening in on conversations, but rather 2,479 requests were filed. The number of asylum seekers from tions in which the politicians or parties he, then defence minister and deputy cluding the Serbian Ombudsman Saša it could only be a provider to author- that got most votes won. This was not the prime minister, had been secretly moni- Janković, say there is insufficient civilian ised state agencies, which would then, the Western Balkans in Septem- Interior Minister Stefanović promised an investigation into the wiretapping claims. Photo by Beta ber was 11,712, which is around case before October 2000. tored. control of the security services. Many are based on judicial or other legal author- 27 per cent of all requests filed That does not change the fact that While investigations into the claims concerned that MPs currently serving on A member of the ruling Serbian Pro- Petrović said that Serbia needs to ity, be able to obtain the legal right to ac- that month. However, several whenever I hear President Tomislav have been promised, successive govern- oversight committees lack the expertise gressive Party has also complained about adopt a completely new legal framework cess communications.” countries from the Balkans – Srđa POPOVIĆ Nikolić talk about “yellow people”, or ments have not yet published the results to properly monitor state surveillance ineffective civilian control of the police. for the entire security and intelligence Ombudsman Janković said he sub- including Serbia - are already on share his views on gynaecology, I feel of a single official probe. activities. Momir Stojanović, chair of the par- sector, starting with the most powerful mitted a number of recommendations Germany’s list of “safe countries,” his October 5th, it was embarrassed, but people voted for him In the wake of the latest allegations, “We [MPs] can go to the security ser- liamentary committee for security ser- institution - the Council for National Secu- to reduce the potential abuse of state meaning its citizens will have a exactly 15 years since and I have to respect that. experts have warned that stricter con- vices headquarters and observe their vices control, called for his committee rity which consists of top Serbian officials. surveillance operations three years hard time winning the asylum Slobodan Milošević Serbia is also on the path to the EU, trols and legal reforms setting down how computers and attend wiretapping at the to gain greater powers over top police He said current legislation does not ago, including that an independent sur- there. Photo: Facebook stepped down, and and we can no longer imagine this coun- the security services and police conduct very moment without even being aware departments, according to a story pub- define to whom the council is obliged to veillance agency be established. “Friends of Serbia” from a distance of a dec- try getting into a war. From that point of surveillance operations must be urgently of it, because we lack the knowledge to lished by Serbian newspaper last report, and noted that “the parliament ”One of those measures is the separa- in the European ade-and-a-half, we can view, I can say that October 5th reached On that day, Serbia lost a great man, didate country, 15 years after 2000. Be- implemented. identify it,” said Šutanovac, who is a mem- month. speaker is not a member of the council, tion of technical and human resources Parliament appeal to Tall make our own conclusions about the its goals. someone I had the privilege of working ing part of European Union is not just Currently, covert surveillance opera- ber of the parliamentary committee for Blic reported that Stojanović had said which excludes the legislative power for communication interception into open the first chapters importance of that day for Serbian his- On the other hand, when you look at with. So, when I think about October about opening and closing chapters, it tions can only be carried out by the Ser- security services control and a former two police departments, the Criminal from it works”. a special agency, independent of the tory. unemployment, average salaries, cor- 5th, my first memory is of Đinđić. Any is a chance to change things for good in bian Security Agency, BIA, the police, the defence minister. Police Department, UKP, and the Depart- In addition, Petrović said that Serbia secret services and the police, which Members of the Serbian National Since I was involved in those events, ruption, the economy and justice, you chance of Serbia achieving those three your own backyard, as all the other EU Military , VOA, and Šutanovac believes parliamentary ment for the Fight against Organized needs to adopt new laws on how the BIA would be under special oversight of the Assembly and members of the I always thinking from the per- cannot honestly say that this is what we goals and achieving much more besides countries did. the Military Security Agency, VBA. In all oversight can only be improved by re- Crime, SBPOK, use surveillance methods operates, including internal checks and control bodies,” Janković said. informal group in the European spective of how that day looked at the all wanted 15 years ago. ended on March 12th, 2003. Up until that I am proud of October 5th and of the cases, the agencies must obtain approval cruiting independent experts in surveil- in their investigations but were not under procedures, in order to meet European He said his key recommendations Parliament “Friends of Serbia” time. Much more was possible and this is day, we had a chance. people who made it possible. I am proud from the courts before beginning any se- lance technology and its use. effective parliamentary control as no sin- Union standards. had not been adopted by the Serbian are calling on the EU to open the first chapters in negotiations with We awoke that morning after we why it did not happen. We may not be Where is Serbia today? We are like a foot- of all my friends from Otpor who were cret surveillance. Zlatko Nikolić, a retired criminologist and gle committee had clear monitoring pow- “The new law should clearly specify government. Belgrade by the end of the year. had won the elections but while those ready to admit it but there was no real ball team that keeps wasting its chances. ready to be tortured and arrested for However, the BIA director can decide former head of the Justice Ministry's Crimi- ers over them. the tasks of the agency [BIA], or whether Janković warned that while no state, “There are no obligations that in power were doing everything they support for change. People voted in The good part is that we are at least creating what they believed in. I am proud be- to expand the scope of a current opera- nal Sanctions Enforcement Unit, agrees. Predrag Petrović, Executive Director of it will, in addition to , no matter how well organised, could weren’t fulfilled by the Serbian could to steal that victory. 2000 for Milošević to go and that was them. When you look at our political sys- cause no other date in recent Serbian tion without first obtaining a court order. “Without expert knowledge, politicians the Belgrade Center for Security Policy, security and intelligence activities, be in absolutely guarantee the security ser- government and institutions,” it We were involved in a conflict in for- it. People were tired of miserable lives tem you will see much more of Đinđić and history has changed this country as sig- Instead, the BIA has a two-day period are powerless to control potential abuse told BIRN that parliamentary powers for charge of conducting police investiga- vices were entirely protected from un- was said at the meeting between mer , in which we lost many ruined by politics. The biggest mistake nothing of Milošević. The Socialist Party nificantly as October th5 did. within which it must apply for court ap- in the security services. That is why ex- committees in charge of monitoring the tions, and whether the agency will con- due influence, Serbia has a lot more to the delegation of the Serbian Na- lives and when many people were was to believe that it was enough for that he created does not even display his I am proud that the symbol of Otpor, proval of the expansion of surveillance perts with the knowledge to detect and police and security services are not pre- tinue to have police powers,” Petrović do before it can regain the trust of citi- tional Assembly and the members forced to leave the country. Milošević to leave. picture on the wall. It is good when politi- a graphic of a clenched fist, has inspired targets. prevent possible abuse need to be en- cisely defined. said. zens. of the group “Friends of Serbia.” Our economy was dying, so was our Today, many doubt whether October cians change, especially when they change people all over the world to fight for free- Dragan Šutanovac, a senior official gaged,” he told BIRN. “Neither the committee for security Interior Minister Stefanović, a sen- “It takes a very long to build the con- Meanwhile, Michael Davenport, th the head of the EU delegation in cultural life and we had every other kind 5 was a revolution. I believe it was, just for the better. But, we must be honest, we dom and democracy. within the opposition Democratic Party He said he had witnessed the ease with services nor the committee for defence ior Progressive party official, denied fidence of citizens when it comes to se- Serbia said that the European of chaos. We all can agree or disagree as I believe that the assassination of his lost a lot of time. told BIRN conditions should be applied which MPs could be manipulated if they and the interior can control them proper- claims the police are not monitored ef- curity services and it is so easy to lose Commission report on Serbia's about many things but these are the successor, Zoran Đinđić, on March 12th, Serbia is on a path to the EU, but there to the two-day deadline to gain court ap- lacked sufficient knowledge or expertise ly. Parliament needs to change its proce- fectively, saying that all surveillance op- it if certain incidents have occurred. progress will be published in the facts about Serbia under Milošević, or 2003 was also a revolution - against Oc- is not much understanding of that pro- Srđa Popović was Special Advisor To proval for expanded operations to pre- during his time as a member of a commit- dures in order to enable effective control erations conducted by the police were The only right way to restore the trust is week of October 19th. Serbia before October 5th. tober 5th. cess. That is why we are still just a can- Prime Minster Zoran Đinđić. vent unnecessary and unlawful surveil- tee responsible for scrutinising the crimi- over those police departments,” he told approved by the courts, according to long-term, effective civil control of the lance of citizens. nal justice system. BIRN. the Blic story. security sector,” he said. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 09 - Thursday, October 22, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 09 - Thursday, October 22, 2015 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE Arctic’s oily No end to potential austerity revealed at Kalemegdan for Serbian

Photos of the oil industry and of seniors everyday life in one of the least Serbian pensioners say they struggle explored regions on Earth can be to make ends meet, as Constitutional viewed at Kalemegdan fortress. Court rejects request for judicial review of pension cuts.

Filip AVRAMOVIĆ Ekatarina Stenjakinja, director of Ivana NIKOLIĆ A public debate on the same issue external communication for Gazprom, has raged since last November, when hotographs of the Arctic depict who opened the exhibition, told the ada Kostić, an 84-year- the government imposed cuts on the the everyday life of locals and Belgrade-based newspaper Blic that old pensioner, comes public sector ranging from 10 per cent animals alike, as well as the mod- the company was “proud to be able to to Belgrade’s Kale- off salaries to as much as 25 per cent off Pern technology used to tame the show the photographs of the esteemed megdan Park every pensions. deep oceans and extract oil from one of Russian photographer Sergej Anisi- once in a while to play The measures sparked a national The exhibition has already attracted lots of Belgraders to Kalemegdan. Photo by Gregoire Huet the world’s most inhospitable regions. mov, who dedicated 10 years of his life chess with her friends. outcry, with education and pensioners’ Under the name “Otkrijmo Arktik” to photograph the Arctic region, to the convey the atmosphere of the mo- years ago and that a million tons of Stenjakinja added. The Arctic has a NIt’s been years since she retired, but last trade unions being among the first to (Let’s discover Arctic), it is organized in Serbian public. ment, beauty and unrepeatability in oil were extracted last year near the surface of 27 million square kilom- November was the first time that her protest against the cutbacks. association with Gazprom Neft and NIS “We are pleased to have begun pre- every manifestation of Arctic nature coast. eters and it is estimated that up to monthly income was cut as part of the But a group of pensioners’ trade un- Oil Company. senting this exhibition in brotherly Ser- – a feeling of perfection and mys- “We are pioneers on the Arctic 90 billion barrels of oil could be ex- austerity measures implemented by ions went a step further. After parlia- A 90-year-old pensioner is outraged by the cuts. Photo by Gregoire Huet With lots of large-scale photos, it has bia,” Stenjakinja added. tery”. coast and we understand our re- tracted from the region. The world the Prime Minister Aleksandar Vučić- ment adopted the law confirming the already attracted Belgraders to see it, Sergey Anisimov said that for him Stenjakinja noted that Gazprom sponsibility not only to the Russian uses around 30 billion barrels of oil led government. cut in pensions, some pensioners’ trade have a release from them saying 000 seniors in Serbia who have suf- is the press release the Constitutional and it runs until November 6th. “the photographs are a possibility to started exploiting oil in the Arctic two people but to the whole of mankind,” every year. She now receives 5, 000 dinars unions submitted a request to Serbia’s the initiative [request for a judicial re- fered a pension cut. While wages over Court issued. It says that the court won’t [around €42] less each month and mur- Constitutional Court, asking them to view] was refused. Then we are going €200 per month in the public sector judge whether the law is constitutional murs that things are hard, as she takes review the law. to the Strasbourg court,” Radović says were reduced by 10 per cent, pensions or not as the law itself does not con- a chess piece, readying for her next It wasn’t until the end of September determinedly. were reduced progressively. A 22 per travene the Serbian constitution or in- move. that they finally got the answer - which cent cut was imposed on pensioners ternational directives the country has “When I pay all the bills, nothing is cannot be appealed. The request for a ‘WE EARNED THAT MONEY’ receiving more than €200 per month, ratified. Work begins on busy downtown street left. I also give money to my daughter judicial review was refused. and a 25 per cent cut for those receiving The decision to deny the pension- as she started working only recently,” “With their decades-long work and Back at , a 90-year- more than €330 per month. ers’ groups request for a judicial review Kostić says, staring at the chess board. engagement, pensioners now want old man, who preferred not to be Zoran Ivošević, a professor at the Bel- was passed by a chamber consisting of The City of Filip AVRAMOVIĆ to the rivers. It is a decades-long dream Some of Belgrade's finest restaurants, The other part of the street – which is “And my grandson also started his to have a normal life, to enjoy it. They named, is outraged by the cuts. grade-based Union University and the eight judges. However, Ivošević argues of Belgraders to be able to walk to Sava most popular bars and university book to be remade for pedestrians only – is driving lessons, and he is a university [the authorities] put a hand in our “When will they give us our money Association’s advisor, argues the whole it was beyond their jurisdiction to ac- Belgrade begins onstruction work has begun and Danube, which are our greatest stores lined the street. home to Belgrade’s finest restaurants. student besides. So I give him a bit of pocket without even asking us,” Mi- back? They lie all the time,” he says of the law passed to implement the cuts tually determine that the law was not on Vuk Karadžić Street in treasures,” he said. Vuk Karadžić Street cuts across There you will find bars, coffee shops money as well.” hajlo Radović, from the Association of loudly. is unconstitutional. contrary to the constitution and other construction the initial phase of a City of Mali also said that other streets Belgrade’s main pedestrian zone – and Serbian, Japanese and Mexican But her fellow chess player and re- Serbian pensioners’ unions which sub- While admitting he doesn’t know “The constitution forbids discrimi- legal documents. works on Vuk CBelgrade project to turn the would be closed so construction work- Knez Mihailova – with one part leading restaurants. tiree, Dušan Tomić, interrupts her to mitted the request for a judicial review, much about the pension group’s legal nation. Both salaries and pensions are “I think the Constitutional Court narrow city centre into a pedestrian- ers could build underground garages. to Student Square and the other to Two of the most famous restaurants explain why he thinks the government told BIRN. battle, he doesn’t think the austerity based on work and money given to the made a mistake there as a decision [on] Karadžić Street, only zone that will connect an existing He underlined the works would be Topličin Venac Square. offering Serbian food in this street are made the right move. As all legal avenues to argue for the measures are justified. Quite the oppo- state and it should not be the case to whether something is constitutional or pedestrianised area with the Sava and conducted with proper planning and Both parts attract a great number “Vuk” and “Proleće,” which are also “They had to do that so we could law to be overturned have now been site. reduce salaries only by 10 per cent, and not is supposed to be passed by [a pan- promising to Danube rivers. to agreed timetables. of visitors. As there are many uni- among the oldest eateries in the capital. live better soon. In order to get things exhausted in Serbia, pensioners and “We earned that money and we gave pensions progressively,” Ivošević told el of] 15 judges, not just eight of them,” Siniša Mali, Mayor of Belgrade, “It is nice to see that city companies versity faculties in the area, there Located on the corner of Vuk here [in Serbia] to work. I justify Vučić’s legal experts have pledged to take the it to the state according to the laws. And BIRN. Ivošević says. open it up for visited construction workers at the site […] are working with the agreed dynam- are many bookstands on the right Karadžić Street and Knez Mihajlova measures,” Tomić says firmly. country to the Strasbourg-based Euro- now they are reducing pensions and In addition, the law passed to impose Still, he says he will wait to see the pedestrians in on October 6th. ics and quality,” Mali added. part of the street –if you walk from is the gallery of the Association of The two of them forget all about the pean Court of Human Rights, arguing increasing the cost of living at the same cuts is actually a temporary measure, final written document before any “The goal is to connect the develop- The works will likely prove to be the Republic Square to Kalemegdan Serbian painters, ULUS, where various game for a moment and start debating their rights have been violated. time,” he protests, saying he can barely but “it doesn’t say how long that tempo- further steps are taken. Until then, mid-December. ing pedestrian zone and the Terazije disruptive as the street is very busy. Park. exhibits are displayed regularly. the government pension cuts – argu- ”We are now waiting to get the writ- make ends meet. rary actually is – it can be for ten years pensioners will have to grin and bear ing over whether it was a good or a bad ten decision [from the Constitutional According to the trade unions’ data, for instance”, Ivošević points out. it and hope they will be luckier in move. Court] to see their arguments. We only he is one out of approximately 700, Another problem, Ivošević observes, Strasbourg.

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Continued from page 1 ADVERTORIAL City-owned apartments on sale

The City of Belgrade will sell 16 apartments it owns at a Last family-run Early election talk public auction next month. The units on sale have surface areas ranging from 10 to Perfect 86 square metres. Officials alarms Serbian described the apartments as perfumery holds “very cheap and they belong in brief Belgrade to the city, which means that Wellness they are completely safe,” in business the media statements. The public auction will be held on back time November 16th at noon in the City Administration building. Service Big chain forms sells 75 per cent of may have Whether you came on business or for apartments private reasons, don’t forget that you’re The controversial riverside taken over the development project sold in the fastest-living city in the region – 75 per cent of available industry, but 60 relaxation is of the utmost importance. apartments in two residential tower blocks on its first day of years on, the sales. The units were priced at between €2,500 and €2,700 Sava perfumery arin Milosavljevicć, marketing per square metre, with the manager of the WellnessLand Belgrade Waterfront company workshop Center and SkyWellness Club making an estimated profit will tell you a little more about of €56 million in just one survives - the last reasons why those are decidedly day. The company has Mthe places which offer absolute maximum when withheld the exact number of its kind in the of buyers and apartments it comes to spa services, saunas, massage and fit- sold to “protect the identity capital. ness activities in Belgrade. of buyers”. The development project has drawn fierce criticism. Opponents have About autumn refreshments: accused the government Filip AVRAMOVIĆ For a whole decade in WellnessLand, and more than five years in Sky- of lacking transparency Wellness, we’re in love with a healthy life. During those years we learnt that and failing to follow legal he big perfume chains the essence of a good service shouldn’t be changed, but that occasional procedures. The government refreshments are always a good thing. With that in mind, this season we in- however insists it awarded now operating in Serbia the contract lawfully. have forced out most of troduce new working hours – for the early birds, we’re open from 6:30 AM, the smaller workshops which has garnered great approval from all our members, but also from Demolition around over the years, but the our intermittent clients. Also, because of many guests from abroad, who begins Jovanov family busi- spend several continual days or weeks in Belgrade on account of business, Tness is still going and keeping custom- we devised a new kind of monthly fee, as well as a day pass. That way, we Savić argues early elections would slow down some key reforms agreed with the IMF. Photo by Media Centre Belgrade are more available than ever, and our service is still as exclusive as ever. Construction workers have ers satisfied, as it has done for genera- The Jovanov family business started in 1954. Photo by Filip Avramović/BIRN begun demolishing a small tions. number of structures around Tucked away in the central King featured in the annual Night of Muse- owever, a decision plementation will be slow and will cer- ELECTIONS NOT About a unique concept of WellnessLand Center: Slavija Square in preparation Petar street, this tiny shop is a reminder It was the ums, opening its doors to visitors want- on whether to in- tainly be prolonged until next year,” WELCOME FOR BUSINESSES Conceptually, WellnessLand is very close to Western clubs with exclu- for forthcoming renovation of the old Belgrade and of the tradition- perfect place I became the ing to see the old perfume-making equip- crease pensions and Savić argued. sive membership. Our members appreciate their own privacy, as well as works. Local authorities claim respecting the privacy of other people. Whether you’re here because of the works will be finished in al workshops that are mostly no longer to get sup- ment, a spray pump that dates back to salaries in the public He insisted that the IMF would not Business managers are even less op- the “shortest period”. The here. plies from. owner and have 1930s and the old perfume bottles. sector - a pledge by look kindly on early elections, because timistic about the potential effects of exercise, spa zone, pool, body treatment or some combination of the of- overall appearance of the Nenad Jovanov, the 66-year-old own- The family The perfume lines “Belgrade’s night Vučić that is often it believes this government is on the possible early elections. fered services, alone or in company, time spent in WellnessLand will relax square will be improved with er, recalls how his father and his uncle spent every dedicated all 1 and 2” were specially made as a treat Hlinked with early elections - has been right track on reforms, which might not Milan Knežević, president of Modus, you and prepare you for your various business and private challenges. Our traffic-calming measures opened the shop back in 1954. August there for the festival. They became so popu- postponed until the new IMF visit in be the case with the next one. a fashion clothes producer, describes permanent members come mostly by way of reccomendation, and we ob- introduced to reduce “They opened a shop before World and used the time to get materials my time to it. I lar that they remain in production. November. “The austerity measures and the the basic financial indicators of the Ser- viously have more than a good reputation among foreign guests of our city, overcrowding, officials said. War II but it was later closed when from French perfume making compa- Jovanov’s other passion is photog- Since last November, public sector pace at which they are implemented bian economy as catastrophic. because they keep coming back every time they return to Belgrade. Major works begin on March the communists started taking away nies. raphy. On entering the shop you can wages over €200 a month have been will certainly be affected because Recalling that Serbian company th love it. This is our 15 next year and should be private property and businesses,” Jo- “They would send the supplies to see a lot of old cameras on display and cut by 10 per cent while pensions have Vučić will probably insist on increasing non-performing loans now totalled 18 About the excellent finished within six months. vanov told BIRN. my uncle or straight to the shop in Bel- black-and-white photos hanging on been reduced progressively, by 22 per salaries and pensions,” he explained. billion dinars [€150 million], Knežević atmosphere in SkyWellness Club: The family were labelled enemies grade. Those were good times. We used tradition, passion, the walls and glass cabinets. cent if they over €200 and by 25 per Serbia has felt the extent to which added that 40,000 businesses had loss- In SkyWellness Club, we have a luxury of the best view in town. If you Belgrade named ‘most profitable’ of the people because of their private to visit France every year,” Jovanov re- our life.” The photographs show various cent over the amount of €330. elections can affect the economy be- es exceeding value of their capital have ever heard those incredible stories about a night life on Belgrade’s riv- tourist destination business. “Enemies” or not, Nenad’s called. members of the family, as well as the Talk of increases has been encour- fore. Purchasing power had also shrunk ers, the early-morning or day exercise with a perfect view on those same father got work as an accountant for Business boomed and customers late founders of the one and only re- aged by solid performance in the field In an interview in March for Biznis significantly. In 2014, industrial produc- rivers will render you speechless! SkyWellness Club is young and full of Serbia’s capital city came a local company because there were flocked there. In 2009, Jovanov’s father Nenad Jovanov maining perfume shop in Belgrade. of fiscal consolidation, which is now magazine, Pavle Petrović, president tion also dropped significantly due to positive energy, and a favorite city spot when it comes to best quality exer- first on a list of the top 25 not enough educated people to do that died, however, and the shop became “I always loved photography. I got widely acknowledged. of the Fiscal Council, recalled that the the floods, which makes this year’s re- cise. Sauna, various kinds of body treatments, and services of professional tourist destinations published work at the time. his son’s responsibility. my first camera when I was a kid and The Fiscal Council, the independent fiscal deficit from 2003 to 2012 grew sult less successful than it looks. trainers are also available to our guests. by travel website Trivago. Some years later, the state returned “I became the owner and have dedi- Over the years, the shop has kept its my father taught me how to use it. body charged with assessing Serbia’s significantly each time before an elec- Knežević complained of the beat St. Petersburg, the right to own their shop to the family cated all my time to it. I love it. This original image. The old wooden door ‘Stay still and just press the button gen- fiscal policy, said on October nd2 that the tion. charges introduced through new eco- About an incredible equipment: Moscow, Santiago, Istanbul, and their dream became a reality once is our tradition, passion, our life,” Jo- rings the bell every time a customer en- tly,’ he said. I still love taking pictures, budget could reach 3.5 per cent of GDP In spring 2012, ahead of the general logical duties and an increase in prop- On both locations, we offer our guests exclusively the equipment made Mexico City, Prague and again. vanov said. ters. Most are the usual crowd, but new although I use newer cameras now,” by the end of the year, compared to 5.9 election, Serbia’s IMF arrangement was erty tax. by renowned Italian manufacturer Technogym. We are aware that multi- Rome. The judging criteria They took out loans and invested Unfortunately, there is nobody to faces appear from time to time. Jovanov said. per cent which was predicted earlier. frozen because the 2012 budget devi- «Apart from some of the provisions tasking and clever utilization of every single moment are essential to mod- wasn’t solely based on everything they had in the shop. The wooden window displays He still does not know what the fu- in the Labour Law, there are no reform- entertainment and measured take over the shop once Jovanov be- However, experts insist that reforms ated too far from the program limits. ern living, and that’s the reason why you can, while excercising, check your profitability too. Trivago based “It reopened in 1954 and got a new comes unable to continue working. creams, perfumes and hair products in ture holds, noting that if he was guided should take priority over early elec- Savić does not expect this govern- ist laws from which businesses have email, talk via Skype, leave your status on social networking services, or the list on criticism from its name, Sava,” Jovanov recalled. His son has chosen a different path in their vintage packaging. by profit alone, the shop would have tions. ment to succumb to temptation to run actually benefited,” he insisted. just watch an episode of your favorite sitcom. Design, functionality and users, average ratings for “I was only a kid but I still remember life as a photographer. Jovanov, a keen Inside, the rich scents from perfume been closed long ago. Dissolving the government, they an expensive campaign, as it should “Another election won’t bring any- high quality of Tecnogym equipment are unmatched. Technogym is our hotels and the most wanted the tension in the family when we reo- photographer himself, does not regret bottles neatly placed in glass cabinets “I do this out of passion, not for warn, would slow the pace of reforms win a majority. thing new for businesses. We will only first choice, because we do not compromise when it comes to the quality destinations on their website. pened. We didn’t know what the future his son's decision. fill the small workshop. profit,” he said. “This shop reminds me and postpone investments - even if but “There is no need for that because, see certain issues being put again on of our services. Trivago only analysed cities would bring, but my father had high “I don’t have a problem with it. He A curtain drapes the back, so that the of happy times and of my family. As excessive public spending is not on the without serious opposition, Vučić can the agenda”, he said. with at least 50 hotels and hopes,” Jovanov said. has his interests and I can only support perfume production process remains a long as I am able, I will continue work- cards. win this elections relatively easily,” The only point of the election would a minimum of 150 visitor Jovanov’s uncle had gone with his him. This shop is not his responsibility. I mystery. ing here and making perfumes for my Savić predicted. be to “buy” two more years in power for comments per hotel on its wife to live in Paris, the “City of Light” - am proud of what he became,” Jovanov With its original look, the shop is an loyal customers and neighbours,” Jo- POLLS LIKELY TO But Mahmud Bušatlija, a consultant the present cabinet, he maintained. site. and of fashion. added. icon of bygone days in Belgrade. It even vanov concluded. DETER INVESTMENT on foreign investment, expects poten- Dragoljub Vukadinović, president tial early elections to slow investment of Metalac, a kitchen crockery manu- The IMF mission on September 1 for at least six months. facturer, agrees. He warned in an inter- urged the government to continue its He said that the Serbian economy view with Biznis magazine on October structural reforms, especially in state remains heavily influenced by the gov- 6 that early elections could damage the his huge communist-era building might be the very first thing you saw and socially owned enterprises. ernment, which is why elections pro- economy. upon your arrival in Belgrade, as it lies on the road leading from the airport Ljubodrag Savić, professor at the Eco- duce such distortion. “Those who call for elections count to the city centre. It is also one of the highest buildings in the capital, so you nomics Faculty, University of Belgrade, “In Italy, cabinets change even more on profiting from them,” Vukadinоć could wonder what it actually is. Bulit in the brutalist style back in 1980, said early elections would slow down frequently than in Serbia but this said. this 35-story skyscraper is among the largest towers in eastern . The some key reforms agreed with the IMF, doesn’t affect their economy, which “From the economic perspective, buildingT is designed to resemble a high-rise gate greeting people arriving in the city from including reform of public companies operates under market conditions,” he elections are bad because it means that the West. That’s why its official name is ‘Western City Gate.’ However, you will seldom and privatization. noted. the six months prior to the elections hear Belgraders referring to it that way – they will call it “Genex” instead, which is the "Delaying lay-offs… is also connected “In Serbia, the whole economy is un- will be spent making political compro- name of the business which owns and occupies one of the two towers. The second, taller, with the announcement of elections,” der state control, so we don’t need to mises and without reforms, while an- building is residential. he said. “Even if the government takes explain the effects of possible elections other six months is spent on wooing

Hidden Belgrade a decision on redundancies now, im- on reforms,” he concluded. voters,” Vukadinović concluded. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 09 - Thursday, October 22, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 09 - Thursday, October 22, 2015 9 REGION OUT AND ABOUT

Continued from page 1 Retrials expose flaws in Sremski Croatia's 'war on corruption' Karlovci:

he authors explained accused had unlawfully pumped €10.4 Where both the historical million of public funds into a private origins of corruption marketing agency called Fimi Media. in the country and de- Mladen Barišić, the former head scribed how the state of Croatian customs who acted as a was effectively fight- middleman between the party and tourism ingT it. Fimi Media, admitted guilt and testi- However, six years after Croatia’s fied against Sanader. Barišić was sen- ‘war on corruption’ was launched, not tenced to a three-year jail term, while one senior political figure has been Ratko Maček, former spokesman for masks successfully prosecuted and sen- Sanader’s government, received a tenced to lengthy jail terms. one-year suspended sentence. Maček Experts say many convictions in maintained his innocence throughout corruption cases have been over- the proceedings. turned by higher courts because of Conviction handed to all three men, misery procedural errors that resulted in and Sanader’s subsequent sentencing breaches to the accused’s right to a fair to a nine-year prison term, was over- trial. turned on October 1st by the country’s A visitor from France journeys to a In addition to overturning Sanader’s Supreme Court, citing procedural er- convictions, Croatian courts also re- rors and breaches of Sanader. The northern Serbian town steeped in versed a guilty verdict against one of court will release a written statement his ministers, the former Defence Min- detailing the errors, and therefore the history and finds antiquities rubbing ister Berislav Rončević. precise grounds for quashing the con- Rončević was handed down a four- viction, within the next few weeks. shoulders with poverty. year prison sentence in December The former PM had also previously 2010 by the Zagreb County Court after been convicted of bribery and war A church in Sremski Karlovci. Photo by Gregoire Huet being found guilty of abuse of office by profiteering by the Supreme Court in directly awarding a contract to supply June 2014, after two cases against him Gregorie HUET cence of the religious buildings leaves Founded in 1794, this seminary is ac- The grounds surrounding Sremski As a tourist hub, it seems like the trucks to the military without a public were merged. you breathless. tually a high school that trains young Karlovci overflows with vineyards. The authorities wanted to hide the ‘ugly’ tender. The prosecution claimed the In one case, he was found guilty of ncredible landscapes, religious This massive orthodox presence is people to become orthodox priests. If Ilion Palace museum can provide you sides of Sremski Karlovci from visitors. state had paid €1.3 million above the accepting an unlawful fee of €3.6 mil- monuments and historical leg- a legacy of the Ottoman Empire. Srem- you get a chance to enter the building, with a map of these fields, which for- There is a big gap between downtown trucks’ market value. lion during talks between Austria’s acy have turned Sremski Kar- ski Karlovci was conquered in 1521 by do so to see the beautiful church inside merly belonged to Rajačić family. and the upper town. At the bottom, However, the Supreme Court over- Hypo Bank and the Croatian govern- lovci into one of Serbia’s most the Ottoman chief Bali-beg. The town the school, or perhaps hear students re- If you want to see these fields by you find very beautiful religious build- turned the sentence in 2014 after rul- ment. The talks took place between popular tourism destinations. was occupied by an orthodox Serbian hearsing religious hymns. yourself, and if you are brave enough, ings, chic restaurants and elegant peo- ing Rončević had not committed any late 1994 and March 1995, during the The old road lead- majority throughout 170 years under About two hundred metres from the you can climb the streets of this very ple. At the top, you find houses that crime by awarding the contract with- Balkan wars. In the other case, Sanader ingI to Sremski Karlovci in Vojvodina Ottoman rule. seminary stands the Serbian Grammar high town. This is quite an exercise look like they are near-collapse and out a public tender. was found guilty of accepting a 10-mil- in the north of the country, offers won- After the war between the Ottoman School, which is a very old Serbian high because the slope is very steep, but it people in rags. The higher you climb, lion-euro bribe for selling the state derful landscapes, with stunning views Empire and the coalition of Russia, Aus- school. Founded in 1792, it hosts the old- is really worth it. Once you go through the worse it is. ‘HASTY’ LAW REFORM energy company INA to Hungary’s oil of hills, trees and river. However, you tria, Poland, and the Republic of Venice, est library in Serbia with a collection of these authentic and chaotic streets and This contrast also exists in hospital- firm MOL. will probably end up clinging to your Sremski Karlovci came under the pro- around eighteen thousand books. arrive at the top of Sremski Karlovci, ity. Downtown, people are very wel- Critics say the problem can be His legal team successfully ap- safety belt once you are on your way. tection of the Austrian Hapsburg dy- For one hundred dinars (around €1), you will be able to admire the beautiful coming and helpful. Students from traced back to what many describe pealed these convictions for bribery The damaged and very narrow road nasty in 1699. About 150 years later, the a student from the school will provide landscapes that reveal themselves be- the orthodox seminary or the Serbian as hastily implemented legal process and war profiteering in July this year, will probably make you bounce in your Austrian Empire named Josif Rajačić you a quick tour. I cannot honestly say neath your eyes. Grammar School are pleased to give in- reforms that were not fully adopted for which he had received an eight- car. Do not be put off. Even if the trip is – a Serbian patriarch – as Administrator the tour is worth it because it lasts only Green fields, vineyards and the Dan- formation about Sremski Karlovci. by the legislature before Sanader, and and-a-half year jail term. The verdicts turbulent, it is still worth it. of Serbian Vojvodina. ten minutes and the explanations are ube River combine to form a wonderful At the top of the city, you really feel others, stood trial. were overturned by the Constitution- If you are not an urban person, if big Since 1848, the Rajačić family ruled not so relevant, but this is the only way picture. Out of breath because of the like a stranger. People stare at you, and Sanja Barić, a professor of con- grey buildings, shops and people in a the region of Vojvodina. You can visit to get inside the famous library. walk through the tortuous streets of you can read in their eyes the persis- stitutional law at Rijeka University, hurry bother you, then Sremski Kar- their house in Sremski Karlovci, now Close to the school, lies St Nicolas ca- Sremski Karlovci, you will need to have tent question: “What is he doing here?” explained that the Con- stitu- Ivo Sanader present while Supreme Court overturns his sentence. Photo by Beta/HINA/Lana SLIVAR DOMINIC lovci, 60km north of Belgrade, will defi- the Ilion Palace museum. There, you thedral. The majesty of this orthodox a break and enjoy the wonderful view. Visitors will probably feel quite ill at tional Court sus- nitely suit you. As soon as you reach will find artefacts illustrating the fam- building is almost disturbing. Even if However, every story has another ease because it is clear the locals don’t pended a num- al Court on grounds of procedural er- ‘PREJUDICIAL Šerić rejects claims made by some town, its peaceful rustic atmosphere ily’s way of life. History lovers will be you are not a religious person, you can side. If the streets are authentic, you expect them to travel this far into Srem- ber of articles This [Sanader’s rors. MEDIA COVERAGE’ commentators that some mistakes will captivate you. glad to have a look at 19th century tradi- feel a spiritual weight settle on your will also see a lot of authentic-looking ski Karlovci. setting down In addition, the Constitutional Court were a result of procedures reformed This town is like a painting full of tional noble clothes, or kitchen utensils. shoulders. As you enter the church, misery at the top of the city. Many of Yet the experience is worth it. This court proce- overturned has ruled the new Hypo-INA case can- In addition to procedural issues ‘in haste’. He asserts that these types bright colours, surrounded by green For such a small town, the amount you could feel a little intimidated by the the houses look like part of a slum. This town is not all about historical legacy. dures – includ- not be heard by the Zagreb County related to the suspended articles, of complex cases, which inevitably at- trees and grass. Historical buildings dot of historical edifices is astonishing. sheer size of the building. You will also is a bit disturbing when you reach the A deep and complete visit includes ing those for verdict] is... Court judge who heard the original Derenčinović also stressed that San- tract massive public and press atten- the landscape with shades of orange, You will have the chance to see one of admire the dozens of paintings hung on downtown and see a very beautiful, seeing the poverty behind the religious some grounds trial, Ivan Turudić, because state- ader’s right to a fair trial had been un- tion, should be prosecuted according yellow and brown. When you get into the oldest orthodox seminaries in the the walls, the stained-glass windows, clean and rural place, then travel higher majesty. In other words, losing your on which the accused could appeal the end of one ments he made to the media have dermined by highly prejudicial media to the highest possible standards. the town, you enter a quiet and peace- world – the St Arsenije Sremac semi- and the beautiful dome in the heart of up to find poor families and run-down way in these streets is the better way to verdicts - until parliament had formal- compromised his perceived impartial- coverage and comment from other When it comes to the public’s per- ful place. At the same time, the magnifi- nary. the nave. housing. discover the real Sremski Karlovci. ly adopted the proposed reforms. phase of what ity. Instead, Sanader will appear before politicians. ception of Croatia’s fight against cor- “A few years ago, the Constitutional was called the another judge, yet to be named. He told BIRN that the media and the ruption, Žarko Puhovski, political ana- Court confirmed certain shortcom- “In Hypo-INA, some serious mis- public, especially in Sanader’s Hypo- lyst and retired philosophy professor ings in the law... and suspended cer- fight against takes were made, which the Constitu- INA case, had declared the former PM at Zagreb University, points to bigger tain articles of the law,” she told BIRN. tional Court, in my opinion, correctly guilty “even before the final judgment concerns. According to Barić, the court made corruption in identified and returned these cases was made”. He believes there is a total discon- something of a “precedent decision” [for retrial],” said Davor Derenčinović, From the outset, the cases against nect between citizens’ expectations Published by ROM when it ruled no one could appeal ver- Croatia. The only professor of criminal law at Zagreb Sanader were under the media spot- of the justice system and judicial de- dicts on grounds covered within in the University, adding that the Supreme light and subject to widespread specu- cisions reached in these corruption CRO suspended articles. question is, will Court had likely reached the same lation. Coverage was frequently highly cases. According to Puhovski, citizens

Parliament was given one year and conclusion when assessing the Fimi subjective. expect politicians, as servants of the B&H SRB five months to debate and adopt the there be the will Media case. Branko Šerić, a highly-experienced people, to be punished if found guilty www.balkaninsight.com reforms, during which time courts While the Supreme Court is yet lawyer and former judge, warned the of corruption. SUBSCRIBE TO OUR were handing down verdicts that and strength to to detail the grounds on which San- accused is disadvantaged from the The overturning of these verdicts could potentially be appealed once ader’s abuse of office conviction in outset during criminal procedures in and ordering of retrials could, he said, A LEADING PROVIDER OF PREMIUM CONTENT BUL for in-depth analysis, investigative parliament adopted the reforms. start the second the Fimi Media case was overturned, Croatia. He told BIRN that while the lead to a deep moral and political crisis NEWS AND ANALYSIS MNE Barić stressed that clearly defined Derenčinović assumes Sanader’s right state attorney’s office heads the inves- further down the line, particularly if reports, features, interviews, KOS legal procedures were vital to the phase?” to interrogate the co-accused had tigation, the defence has no access to the courts fail to deliver verdicts that IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE commentary and profiles on the latest courts’ ability to hand down valid ver- been breached and, therefore, his right the process of the investigation. will be seen as acceptable and appro- business and political headlines. MAC dicts. to a fair trial. “The defence has no access to the in- priate by the public at large. Sanader was found guilty in March Žarko Puhovski, While acknowledging the frequent vestigation. This is prevented by law. I “This [Sanader’s overturned verdict] 2014 by the Zagreb County Court of political analyst and changes to legislation and procedural think that finally, after all these decisions is... the end of one phase of what was ALB abuse of office and corruption charg- retired philosophy laws have led to the overturning of [reversed verdicts], it is clear that the law called the fight against corruption in OTHER SERVICES: es, along with two other officials from convictions, Derenčinović says the ex- on criminal procedure has to be changed,” Croatia. The only question is, will there his centre-right Croatian Democratic professor at Zagreb ecutive and legislative authorities are he said, adding that the defence should be the will and strength to start the sec- Union, HDZ, party. The court ruled the University at fault, and not the judiciary. have access to investigations. ond phase?” he asks. 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 09 - Thursday, October 22, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 09 - Thursday, October 22, 2015 11 ARTS DINING OUT

Zulfikarpašić and Opera, Ballet Hadžimanov team up for piano duets and Classical Patlidžan BEMUS FRIDAY OCTOBER 9th After their first and very suc- It always begins cessful joint concert recently as Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Patlidžan leaves a with Marc Piollet – conductor and Tine with a simple

a piano duo, Bojan Zulfikarpašić Thing Helseth – trumpet, Ilija M. Kolarac Arts in brief Arts in brief and Vasil Hadžimanov are back Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm question: ‘Can you Corner Wine headlines busy Milica Žugić – violin, Guarnerius, again for two shows. One at the Kolarac Endowment on October Džordža Vašingtona 12, 8pm bring me the wine th 10 and another the following SATURDAY OCTOBER 10th list’? Everything night in Novi Sad. The duo will bittersweet taste be joined by renowned Serbian culture month in Opera: Rigoletto, The National Theatre, else that follows is accordionist Jovan Pavlović, Francuska 1, 7:30pm Nenad Čiča – tenor, Guarnerius, Džordža a complex matter, dish. Serving everything and anything who lives in Norway, along with Vašingtona 12, 8pm with rocket has become some kind of several other special guests. and cannot be th a trend in Belgrade restaurants. Yes, Tickets cost €12 at the door. Belgrade SUNDAY OCTOBER 11 measured only by these leaves are eye-catching, but Trio Donne di Belgrado, Ilija M. Kolarac Eight new plays Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 11am how much is left their peculiar taste is not suitable for at annual Joakim Janoshka Ensemble, Ilija M. Kolarac every combination. Inter Fest Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm in the bottle after Bokeška pašta šuta - veal ragout MONDAY OCTOBER 12th dinner. pasta, typical of the Bay of Kotor and The tenth annual Joakim Inter the Dalmatia region, caught our eye, Accordion Duo Olimp, Belgrade Cultural as well as the signature pizza with Fest in will feature Centre, Trg Republike 5, 8pm the latest in Serbian theatre with Dinko Blagojević - piano, Belgrade figs, rocket leaves and eggplant. But as eight different performances Cultural Centre, Trg Republike 5, 9pm Pavle GOLICIN meat mains prevail on the menu, we decided to follow that direction and over nine days. The festival be- th th TUESDAY OCTOBER 13 gan on October 7 and lasts until atlidžan is save sampling pasta and pizza for an- th October 15 . Even though it's Revolution op. 1 no. 3 – music of the yet another other visit. ancient civilizations, Grad Cultural not in Belgrade, any fan of seri- cosy place Recommended beef fillet steak with ous contemporary theatre should Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 6pm that recently gremolata sauce proved a very good not hesitate to make the hour WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 14th choice. Gremolata was not the clas- opened in and a half trip to Kragujevac for sic one with lemon zest, parsley and Opera: Aida, The National Theatre, the heart the event. The festival is named Francuska 1, 7pm garlic – the herbs were left out and the after Joakim Vujić (1772-1847), Pof Vračar neighbourhood, style was less fresh and more earthy, th which is trying to position the first director of the Serbian THURSDAY OCTOBER 15 but it was tasty and good company to Court Theatre. Tickets range itself on the gastronomic Ballet: Who’s That Singing Over There, the tender meat, done rare as ordered. from 200-600 dinars [around The National Theatre, Francuska 1, map of Belgrade. We decid- Grilled chicken breasts, pre-stuffed €2 - €5] and are available from 7:30pm ed to go there for Sunday with apple, in sweet orange, apricot the ticket office in Daničićeva 3 Trio Donne Di Belgrado, Belgrade City lunch to avoid the usual and pistachio sauce were overdone Street in Kragujevac. Hall, Dragoslava Jovanovića 2, 8pm evening rush and to enjoy in the process of caramelisation. The SATURDAY OCTOBER 17th a lazy Sunday afternoon. Contemporary sauce achieved the needed deep, bit- Opera: Carmen, The National Theatre, The restaurant promotes tersweet, nutty flavour, but the meat German movies Francuska 1, 7pm come to town itself as a place for Belgrade was far too dry. SUNDAY OCTOBER 18th cuisine, so I was quite curi- Pork fillet with prunes, baby moz- Under the name “Erinnerungen ous to find out what this zarella and cream sauce of almonds Ivan Pejić – violin and Jovana Nikolić actually means. Patlidžan and sage – a fusion take on the all-time und Hoffungen” (Remembrance – piano, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, and Hope), the Goethe Institute Studentski Trg 5, 11am is a local word meaning favourite meat loaf, divided opinions will present to the Belgrade aubergine, or eggplant, so in our group. Some found it dry, some MONDAY OCTOBER 19th public some of the best films I was expecting to find a found it fine… but everyone agreed the German industry had to offer Nikola Zdravković - piano, Belgrade menu that promoted one that the fresh red paprika cubes had over the last year. The festival, Cultural Centre, Trg Republike 5, 8pm of my favourite vegetables. no place in this dish. which runs until October 14th at The dessert section of the menu is WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 21st This is not the case, apart the Cultural Centre of Belgrade, definitely of the essence of Belgrad- from one starter, however, will feature 11 films, some of Nataša Tasić-Knežević, soprano, Ilija ers’ taste: a tiramisu, a cremeschnitte, so I felt somewhat disil- them coming straight from the M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg a cheesecake, and a chocolate soufflé 5, 6pm lusioned that Patlidžan did Berlinale International Film at the end. We are big fans of chocolate, Opera: Rigoletto, The National Theatre, not play around with this Festival in Berlin. Films to be Francuska 1, 7:30pm but the soufflé takes up to half an hour great ingredient, which of- screened include “Hin und weg” BEMUS opening: Eric Aubier – trumpet to prepare. Being a little short on time, by Christian Zubert, “Elser – 13 and Romain Descharmes – piano, Ilija fers so many possibilities. M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg we decided on tiramisu with fresh Minuten” by Oliver Hirschbiegel, 5, 8pm The wine list gives the raspberries instead. The tiramisu itself “Victoria” by Sebastian Schipper same impression. It is quite was again too mild, its distinct char- THURSDAY OCTOBER 22nd Patlidžan calls itself a “Belgrade cuisine restaurant.” Photo: Facebook and many more. Tickets cost narrow, with 25 labels acter lost. The raspberries took over 250 dinars [around €2] and Ballet: The Lady of the Camellias, The available by the bottle and completely, which was not how we are available from the ticket National Theatre, Francuska 1, 7:30pm only eight by the glass. The are in weird proportions - low black a local kafana, was done properly, in hoped to end our visit. office at the Cultural Centre of BEMUS: St. Petersburg Soloists with selection is also slim and Some of the ceiling versus high white counter, etc - the unaltered kafana style. Overall, our experience was a mix Belgrade in Kolarčeva 6 street. Mikhail Gantvarg, conductor, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, the potential for combining and the overall ambience does not feel Baked brie cheese and prosciutto of great and not so great. The quality 8pm dishes at this Photography A virtuoso Russian pianist Nikolai Luganski comes to the BEMUS festival. Photo: Facebook food and wine is limited. smooth. wraps came nicely arranged in a pan, of food constitutes just a part of a res- exhibition showcases The mark-up here is home of ‘Belgrade The atmosphere felt to us like a along with a warm, baked pear. The taurant experience, for sure. In that Instagram photos The BEMUS festival takes place from state of the world at the time and were average for Belgrade mash of very different ideas. Could it texture was smooth, the cheese was regard, on our visit, Patlidžan’s kitch- Mongolian st st October 21 to 31 and will include vir- also able to predict various levels of Exhibitions restaurants. The service is cuisine’ hit just be that the big names had a bad day done right (completely melted, but still en failed to impress. Other aspects Belgrade artist Snežana Ristić Orchestra and tuoso Russian pianist Nikolai Luganski, apocalypse and salvation in the future,” and Events friendly and ready to help on this one, or did we miss the point? keeping the shape within its crust), but worked better, to an extent that made is a contemporary photogra- a Mongolian traditional music ensem- Božić said. at any time. However, the the right note – In any case, the vintage-style chairs the contrast between sweet and salty us wonder: Is it still about food? pher who has based her latest ble, famed ballerina Svetlana Zaharova, By far the most exotic act that is go- FRIDAY OCTOBER 9th wine taken by the glass upholstered in bold purple and golden was not sufficiently highlighted. A little Russian ballet also from Russia, and many more high- ing to be featured this year is the Mon- mustard were very comfortable, the salt helped – a little, but it still left much exhibition, titled Alive, on photos was not poured in front but others miss ly esteemed performers. golian “Ih Tsetsn” Orchestra, who use staff were helpful and pleasant, and to be desired… PATLIDŽAN she has posted on Instagram. Exhibition: Read and Pass Along, The of us. The exhibition shows takes her star feature Belgrade Secretary of Culture very specific traditional string instru- the mark. the music smooth. We soon forgot the Homemade biscuits with eggplant, Address: Hadži Milentijeva 28 National Library, Skerlićeva 1, 12pm There is room for so-called "virtual diary" and Vladan Vukosavljević said that this ments, which can be likened to the 12th Balcanima Festival, Studentski Grad overall visual mash and focused on almond and goat cheese pesto were Phone: +381 11 4060000 improvement at Patlidžan, juxtaposes it with a traditional in this year’s year’s festival will coincide with two ancient Serbian instruments known Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića the menu. nice, but again much milder than to 179, 12pm and it should be fast, hav- gallery setting. The exhibition is anniversaries that are very important as “gusle”. The music performed will Exhibition: Đorđe Odanović, Zvono Duda & Vlada The menu is divided into many sec- be expected from these ingredients. Price Guide: 1800-2000 dinars per th ing in mind the huge and open until October 14 at Bar- classical music to Belgrade’s classical music scene: 30 give the audience great insight into Gallery, Višnjićeva 5, 7pm tions with a few dishes in each. To put They came served with rocket leaves person for three courses without tselona Gallery at the Belgrade years of the public broadcaster RTS the spiritual world of the Mongolian growing competition in the he growth of the res- it differently – a little bit of everything. that had very little connection to the drinks [around €14 - €16] SATURDAY OCTOBER 10th Design District, store 96 on the festival that Symphonic Orchestra and its choir and people. neighbourhood. taurant scene around Here, “Belgrade cuisine” obviously first floor. 50 years of the city’s lauded Dušan Sko- The Mongolian Orchestra concert is 12th Balcanima Festival, Studentski Grad the St Sava church means “Belgraders’ favourite dishes”, celebrates Cultural Centre, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića vran string orchestra. Of course, both also special because of the fact that it’s 179, 12pm in the Vračar neigh- which comes down to a cross of Ital- Spanish indie rockers will be participating and performing at going to take place in the Serbian Parlia- Exhibition: Ljiljana Jarić, Belgrade ~ ~ ~ bourhood continues. ian, Mediterranean, and international in the capital rd sounds of the the festival as well. ment building on October 23 . Cultural Centre, Trg Republike 5, 1pm Patlidžan, meaning cooking with a few local specialties. ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ As far as the general focus of this As for the other stars of programme, aubergine, or eggplant, opened last The humble eggplant - a rich, earthy th SUNDAY OCTOBER 11th T ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” Tulsa, a Spanish indie rock 20 Century. year’s repertoire is concerned, BEMUS Nikolai Luganski will be performing spring. It calls itself a “Belgrade cuisine vegetable often overlooked by Bel- band, will be performing at RESTURANT KOVAČ Art Director Svetislav Božić said that on October 24th at the Kolarac Endow- Mikser Design Market – Revolution, restaurant” – and we were curious to grade restaurants - is of course on Belgrade’s Grad Cultural Centre modern ethno restaurant Mikser House, Karađorđeva 46, from 11am Basic Info Rating on Saturday, October 10th. The this year’s programme will be dedicat- ment, while Svetlana Zaharova, prima to 5pm find out what that means. the menu, though perhaps just not as th th four-member band was formed David GALIĆ ed to sounds of the 20 Century, noting ballerina of the Bolshoi Theatre, will 24 Festival of Ethnologic Film – Along with the name, shades of pur- much as we had anticipated. Indeed, that this year’s performers were specifi- be at the Sava Centre on October 26th. closing ceremony, The Ethnographic ple and violet dominate the interior. the menu does not have many egg- in Madrid and Bilbao and is Museum, Studentski Trg 13, 7pm Overall Average EMUS, Belgrade’s most cally chosen to give the festival a lively That night will be entirely dedicated to Some of the best-known names on plant dishes, but it does bring a fair headed by talented composer Wine selection Average Miren Iza, who also headed prominent and impor- and bombastic vibe. He described the Russian ballet, with several more solo the Belgrade art scene were involved share of different twists to the usual MONDAY OCTOBER 12th another band – Electrobikinis. tant classical music fes- pieces chosen for this year as anything dancers from Minsk filling out the pro- Wine service Good in this project as architects, graphic Mediterranean cooking found in Bel- They sing in Spanish. Tickets tival, will be entering its but “lullabies”. gramme. Book Exhibition: Famous Migrants, Wine pricing €12 - €62 designers and artists. The use of bold grade. The ordering was fun and our cost 400 dinars [around €4] and 47th year with an excit- “The music of the 20th Century For the full list of concerts, locations Studentski Grad Cultural Centre, Bulevar colours and the signature blackboard expectations rose. can be purchased at Gigstrix ing array of performers showed authors who were aware of and dates, visit the festival’s official Zorana Đinđića 179, 12pm art on the ceiling create a strong im- Thick veal soup, probably the only Bulevar Oslobodjenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 Deli Monday: Red Monday, Grad Wine and food pairing Average www.restorankovac.com outlets in Belgrade. fromB all over the world. the past, very observant of the current website: www.bemus.rs Cultural Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 7pm pression, but elements of the interior dish that Patlidžan’s menu shares with

12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 09 - Thursday, October 22, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 09 - Thursday, October 22, 2015 13 WHAT’S ON ON THE SPOT

Lady CLUBBING trumpet AND LIVE MUSIC virtuoso comes to town FRIDAY OCTOBER 9th • The Somethings, Gun Club, • Tri za Groš, Konoba Akustik, Miloša Pocerca 10, 10pm Cara Dušana 13, 11pm ine Thing Helseth, a famed Norwe- • Vibst Fest, Grad Cultural gian trumpet soloist and one of to- Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, SATURDAY OCTOBER 10th TUESDAY OCTOBER 13th day’s leading musicians in this field, 10pm is playing at the Belgrade’s Ilija M T th TRATTORIA Kolarac Endowment on October 9 at 8pm. • Control, Zwein, The Tube, , Grad Cultural Centre, , Mr Stefan Braun, • Vibes • Dizel Party The 27-year-old will be performing together Simina 21, 11pm PIZZERIA Braće Krsmanović 4, 10pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm with French conductor Marc Piollet. Helseth’s • Opening Season, Drugstore • Chymera Live, Wats, Lomina • Alasdair Roberts, Grad performance will open a series named “Za Play, boat on Sava river, 5, 11pm Cultural Centre, Braće znalce” (For Connoisseurs). Helseth had her 11:00pm • Electric Universe, Monsun, Krsmanović 4, 9pm first rehearsal with the Belgrade Philharmon- Nebojsina 8 • Mirko and Meex, Industrija Travnička 3, 11pm ics Orchestra on October 8th. 011/3863-999 Tine Thing Helseth Photo by Nemanja Jovanović Bar, Karađorđeva 23, 10pm th • Explicit Music + Rejv Olupine, WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 14 [email protected] , Club • RnB Night – Pure Cream Tijuana, boat on Sava, 11pm www.restoranamici.rs 94, boat on Sava, 11pm • Rhadow, The Tube, Simina 21, • Techno Yes Techno, 2044 • Time Machine, Freestyler 11pm boat on Sava, 11pm German days boat on Sava, 11pm • DJ Mirko and DJ Meex, • Girls Gonna Get Wild, Mr • Can’t Stop The Rock, KST, SUNDAY OCTOBER 18th • Friday Beeeat, Hot Mess boat Freestyler boat on Sava, 11pm Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, celebrated on Sava, 11pm • Somebody Call the Doctor, 11pm 10pm • Nineties Night, Club 94, boat at Belgrade • Holy Friday, Mr Stefan Braun, Club 94, boat on Sava, 11pm , Kafana • Aćim i Violina • Annihilator, Dom Omladine, on Sava, 11pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Saturday Night Fever, Mr Jazbina, Bulevar Kralja Makedonska 22, 9pm • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan Braun, shopping • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Aleksandra 89, 11pm • Soul Train Duo, Akademija Nemanjina 4, 11pm Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 73, 11pm • Libertas, Kafana Tajna, mall 28, Nemanjina 28, 9pm 10pm • Hip-Hop and R’n’B by Ruzveltova 13, 10pm • Miško Plavi, Grad Cultural • Eyesburn, Bjesovi, KST, Bulevar • Ritam Nereda, Dom Omladine, DJ Prema, Industrija Bar, Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, uring the three-day festival, Kralja Aleksandra 79, 10pm Makedonska 22, 8:00pm Karađorđeva 23, 10pm THURSDAY OCTOBER 15th 9pm which took place from October • Nipplepeople, Studentski nd th • Tajanstveni Voz • ‘90s, KST, Bulevar Kralja • Sean and Zander, Peron, 2 -4 , many visitors enjoyed , Mikser House, Grad Cultural Centre, Bulevar supergroup Aleksandra 73, 10pm • DJ Vu, KST, Bulevar Kralja Braće Krsmanović 12, 9pm DGerman music hits, workshops Karađorđeva 46, 8:30pm • Vasil Hadžimanov and Bojan Aleksandra 73, 10pm Zorana Đinđića 179, 10pm for kids as well as promotions. There was • Dejan Milutinović Trio, Zulfikarpašić, Ilija M. Kolarac • Artan Lili, Gun Club, Miloša also a fashion show of German brands Sky High Season Five - Dj MONDAY OCTOBER 19th Akademija 28, Nemajina 28, Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, 8pm Pocerca 10, 10pm Takko Fashion, C&A, Orsay and Tom Tailor Gru and DJ Playa, Mr. Stefan on October 3rd. There was also a photo- 9pm • Barcelona Gypsy Kletzmer Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Beautiful Monday, Mr. Stefan graph exhibition showcasing German Orchestra, Božidarac, • Wake Up DJs, Drugstore Play SATURDAY OCTOBER 17th cities, while a collection of beer mugs was Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Radoslava Grujića 3, 9pm boat on Sava, 11pm also presented. Many celebrities attended • Tulsa, Grad Cultural Centre, • Organizam, Bas i Stega, • Banda Panda, Grad Cultural the event, including a writer and a journal- th Braće Krsmanović 4, 9pm Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, TUESDAY OCTOBER 20 String quartet "Manojlović" Photo: Facebook ist Vesna Dedić. Vesna Dedić Photo: Facebook • Prisoner, Dom Omladine, Krsmanović 4, 9pm 10pm Makedonska 22, 9pm • Slaughtbath, Turbocharged, • DJ Mirko and DJ Meex, • Dizel Party, Mr Stefan Braun, FREE COPY • Marcello and Elemental, Violentor, Dom Omladine, Freestyler boat on Sava, 11pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm Hala Sportova, Pariske Makedonska 22, 9pm Thousands • Somebody Call the Doctor, • Libertas, Kafana Tajna, Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. Komune 20, 9pm • Nesa Acoustic Band, Konoba Club 94, boat on Sava, 11pm Ruzveltova 13, 10pm of visitors Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade • Lost Paris Tapes – Doors Akustik, Cara Dušana 13, 11pm • Saturday Night Fever, Mr Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 Tribute, Akademija 28, • Charter Band, Kafana Tajna, at Durer’s Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 21st Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić Nemanjina 28, 10pm Ruzveltova 13, 10pm 11pm BIRN editorial team: exhibition SUNDAY th th • Hip-Hop and R’n’B by • Girls Gonna Get Wild, Mr. Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, OCTOBER 11 FRIDAY OCTOBER 16 DJ Prema, Industrija Bar, Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, elgrade City Museum on [email protected] October 7th welcomed the • Nineties Night, Club 94, boat Karađorđeva 23, 10pm 11pm Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović • Dance Factory and BAG, 10, 000th visitor to the exhi- on Sava, 11pm Grad Cultural Centre, Braće • Eighties, KST, Bulevar Kralja Phone: +381 11 4030 302 • Zig Zags, Grad Cultural Centre, bition “Albrecht Durer and • Sunday Beat, Mr Stefan Krsmanović 4, 6pm Aleksandra 73, 10pm B [email protected] Braće Krsmanović 4, 9pm His Contemporaries,” which opened Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Four Yearz of Mystic Stylez, • Del Arno Band, Božidarac, in the beginning of September. Ac- Subscription & Distribution: • Neša Acoustic Band, Konba 20/44 boat on Sava river, 11pm Radoslava Grujića 3, 9pm nd cording to the museum officials, in Goran Knezevic THURSDAY OCTOBER 22 Akustik, Cara Dušana 13, 10pm • Friday I’m In Love – Not, • Plavi Ptičić, Akademija 28, the last two and a half decades none +381 11 4030 303 Ljutić, Stevana Sremca 5, 10pm Nemanjina 28, 9pm of the exhibitions have attracted [email protected] th • Sky High Season Five - Dj such a large number of visitors. MONDAY OCTOBER 12 • Pure Cream, Club 94, boat on • Voke & Salier Des Flores, Printing: štamparija d.o.o. Gru and DJ Playa, Mr. Stefan Sava, 11pm Dom Omladine, Makedonska Visitors at the museum. Photo: Facebook Luka Vukićević, the 10, 000th visitor. Photo: Facebook ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight , Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Beautiful Monday • Holy Friday, Mr Stefan Braun, 22, 9pm COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Braun, Nemanjina 4, 11pm Nemanjina 4, 11pm • Wake Up DJs, Drugstore Play • Artan Lili, Gun Club, Miloša Circulation: 4,000 • Lord of the Dance, Sava Centre, • Mirko and Meex, Industrija Pocerca 10, 10pm boat on Sava, 11pm Milentija Popovića 9, 9pm Bar, Karađorđeva 23, 10pm 8 – 14.10.2015. DKC - Dvorana Kulturnog centra Beograda

Donnerstag 8.10. – ERÖFFNUNG 21.00 Uhr 20.00 Uhr Victoria - R: Sebastian Schipper, 134 Min. 2015 Phoenix – R: Christian Petzold, 98 Min. CITY GUIDE Available at: Montag 12.10. Freitag 9.10. 19.00 Uhr Tourist Organisation of Belgrade 19.00 Uhr Who am I - Kein System ist sicher Knez Mihailova 5, +381 (11) 2635 622 Hin und weg - R: Christian Zübert, 95 Min. R: Baran bo Odar, 106 Min. Central Train Station, +381 (11) 3612 732 Nikola Tesla Airport, +381 (11) 2097 828 4. GoetheFEST 21.00 Uhr 21.00 Uhr Belgrade Port, Karađorđeva Fack ju Göhte! - R: Bora Dağtekin, 113 Min. Wir sind jung, wir sind stark APROPO R: Burhan Qurbani, 128 Min. Hotel Moskva Bookstore and tearoom Samstag 10.10. FREE PULL OUT MAP OF BELGRADE Terazije 20, +381 11 3642 000 Cara Lazara 10 19.00 Dienstag 13.10. +381 11 2625839 FREE SIM CARD Hotel Excelsior Sećanja i nade Tod den Hippies! Es lebe der Punk! 19.00 Uhr Kneza Miloša 5, +381 11 3231 381 At the Belgrade Airport R: Oskar Roehler, 104 Min. Kuzu – The Lamb – R: Kutluğ Ataman, 87 Min. TOP SIGHTSEEING LOCATIONS 21.00 Uhr 21.00 Uhr PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP Supermarket concept store Hudson news odlasci / departures Erinnerungen und Elser - 13 Minuten The Cut – R: Fatih Akin, 138 Min. Višnjićeva 10, +381 11 2910 942 Hudson news dolasci / arrivals R: Oliver Hirschbiegel, 114 Min. GUIDED TOURS THROUGH BELGRADE Hudson news čekiranje / check in Hotel Townhouse 27 Hudson news transit zona / transit Mittwoch 14.10. - FINALE WIDE SELECTION OF CLUBS, HOTELS, Maršala Birjuzova 56, +381 11 2022 900 Hoffnungen Sonntag 11.10. 20.00 Uhr Order online: 19.00 Uhr Als wir träumten RESTAURANTS, SHOPS AND Booking Rooms Hostel Im Labyrinth des Schweigens R: Andreas Dresen, 117 Min. Kralja Petra 30, +381 63 29 39 39 www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/ R: Guilio Ricciarelli, 123 Min. ENTERTAINMENT VALUE www.bookingrooms.rs belgrade-city-guide Sprache. Kultur. Deutschland. 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 09 - Thursday, October 22, 2015 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 09 - Thursday, October 22, 2015 15 GOING OUT SPORT

has a great team and it is really great to be part of that story,” Becker said. Đoković and Becker started work- Kavkaz Famed ing together at the end of 2013. The Serbian tennis player has since played six finals and won 14 titles, including four grand slams. opens in Under Becker’s guidance, Đoković German reclaimed top spot of the ATP rank- ings and expanded his lead over Roger Belgrade’s Federer and Andy Murray, who were always close behind him. coach stays Boris Becker is one of tennis’ great- est legends. The former German ten- upper Dorćol nis world champion has won six grand slams, a golden medal for doubles in on Đoković the Olympics and was the youngest Wimbledon champion, winning the district title when he was just 17 years old. In his professional career, he won 713 games and won 64 ATP titles. He The newly-opened Kavkaz bistro team also won the Davies cup for Germany shows much promise, if it can thrive two times – in 1988 and 1989. Becker remains Filip AVRAMOVIĆ Đoković is the number one seed for in area where many bars have failed the forthcoming ATP Masters tourna- head coach to oris Becker has con- ment in Shanghai. He lost at the semi- before. firmed he will re- finals last year against one of his great- Serbian tennis main head of Novak est rivals, Swiss player Federer. Đoković’s coaching He will also be the number one seed David GALIĆ of the other bars and cafes in the area star Đoković, team, despite wide- for the World tour Masters in Paris in seem to be constantly in a state of flux spread speculation the November, which he won last year aving opened just and uncertainty. despite rumours twoB tennis legends would part com- beating Canadian Miloš Raonić in two a few weeks ago, The building now occupied by pany at the end of the 2015 season. sets. Kavkaz bar is still a Kavkaz was once home to the popular of leaving at the Becker told German Sport Bild the The season will conclude with work in progress, but jazz bar Ptica. It seemed that the jazz two would continue working together the World Finals in London, which first impressions defi- club was doing well but it only lasted end of the current next year. Đoković has won for three consecu- nitely show promise about two years before closing its “I am proud that I will also be part of tive years. for this bistro bar. The area of upper doors. The premises were empty until season. Novak’s coaching staff in 2016. Novak H Illustration. Photo by Scott Beale/Flickr Novak Đoković Photo by Beta Dorćol in which Kavkaz is located is Kavkaz came into being about a month probably the only section of this up- ago. actually comes from a famed Zagreb- Another addition that was made to only to see building materials scattered scale neighbourhood that one might The bar opened its doors so recently based bar called Mali Kavkaz, which the bar is a gallery, which Ptica didn’t about the floor. call ‘fledgling’ when it comes to the suc- it’s hard to get an idea of what Kavkaz Džoni Štulić of the legendary Yugoslav- have. A swirling staircase leads to some Once this area of the bar is ready to ac- cess of cafes and bars. will be. I managed to speak briefly with era rock band Azra used to frequent. relaxed seating – mostly wooden chairs cept patrons, it should add an exciting di- A couple streets from Kalemegdan one of the owners who said that it is The main area features an exception- and tables, but also one couch. This is mension to Kavkaz, with the owner explain- Bjelica’s NBA debut wins warm applause park, this particular part of the neigh- meant to be a bistro bar, serving very ally large wooden bar, much larger than most likely where people will want to ing to me that they plan on booking DJs. He bourhood is a bit more residential, and light finger food and drinks for the most the one that graced Ptica in its heyday. eat once the culinary aspect of the bar made sure to note, however, that it certainly Ivana NIKOLIĆ Praise for Bjelica also came on the of- with popular bar-ridden streets like part. The entire décor of Kavkaz is very min- takes off. I believe that the kitchen area won’t turn into a full-blown club, since the Belgrade-born ficial Minnesota’s website, which lauded Strahinjića Bana just metres away, pubs The space itself is quite uniquely imal - almost scarily so, to be honest. is up top as well. bar is located in a residential building. wenty-seven-year-old his first match. and cafes seem to have a difficult time decorated. The first thing you notice The lighting evokes the atmosphere While Ptica was still active, the best And while it isn’t yet fully complete, basketball player Bjelica scored 11 points In “The Nemanja Bjelica legend continues succeeding in this part of Dorćol, near walking into the bar is the sprawling of a David Lynch movie and the afore- thing about it was undoubtedly the there is no doubt that Kavkaz will be an in- Nemanja Bjelica has the first preseason match to grow. Bjelica finished with 11 points and the Belgrade mosque and the Fresco wall that has been painted to resem- mentioned wall paintings also give it a basement area, which was where the triguing new place on the bar scene in Bel- on October 7th in a Minne- five rebounds, but the numbers don’t tell Gallery. ble the inside of a cave, or perhaps the bit of a sinister feel. bigger jazz gigs took place. The base- grade this winter. Hopefully, its early prom- made a successful sota Timberwolves’ jersey, the whole story,” the website said. In recent years, Medusa is the only treacherous terrain of the mountains But it actually comes across more ment also lent Ptica an authentic, dark, ise as a conceptually unique nightspot will Twhich his new team lost to Oklahoma “He moved the ball when the Wolves café that has prospered in this area. that share its name (Kavkaz is Caucasus chic and daring than genuinely scary. It New York-style jazz club atmosphere. be realised in the coming months. start to his career City Thunder. needed ball movement. He had just two Even then, it went through at least three in Serbian). definitely stands out as unique, since I Unfortunately for Kavkaz at this He spent some 20 minutes on the assists, but was part of a few possessions changes of ownership and concept be- But apparently, the mountains are can’t recall seeing a bar in Belgrade with point, the basement is also still a work Kavkaz bar in the world’s court, scoring five jumps and two as- that would have made Gregg Popovich fore things clicked with customers. All not the inspiration behind the name. It a similar visual concept. in progress. I went down to take a peek Address: Cara Uroša 19 strongest basketball sistances. The only players better than smirk,” it added, referring to one of the him were Karl Anthony Towns, also best-known NBA basketball coaches. league, the making his debut, and Gorgui Dieng. Before joining Minnesota, Bjelica st Sam Mitchell, interim head coach played for Austria’s Traiskirchen Lions, 31 Belgrade jazz Halloween Party National Basketball for the Minnesota Timberwolves, told Belgrade’s Red Star, Spanish Saski Basko- Association, NBA. the media he was pleased with how nia and Turkish Fenerbahce Ulker. fest looks to future with gory twist his “wolves” had played. Bjelica, who also plays for Serbia’s na- “It is always hard when you play tional basketball team, was also named hile last year's 30th anniversary of the Belgrade Jazz Festival was he G02 Halloween party this year promises to be really bloody. The against Oklahoma. I think everyone Euroleague MVP in 2015. On the same oc- celebrated with a nostalgic lineup, focusing on traditional trends theme is “Bloody Saturday” and the organizers are asking people to in- could see that they are one of the best casion, he made it to the All-Euroleague in jazz, this year's festival will look to the future. The organizers clude as much blood and gore on their costumes as possible. But there NBA teams. It was a good test for our Team, an award for the Euroleague’s top of the event say more attention will be paid to future stars of jazz is an interesting twist to the party. If you want to get two free tickets, you boys, especially for the ones who de- ten basketball players for each season and to performers who are taking the art from into new territory. can head over the blood donation bus at Republic Square and donate buted,” Mitchell said. since 2000/2001. WhileW the programme is extensive, the main performers of note include the Hiromi yoursT on any Monday ahead of the event. Nemanja Bjelica Photo by Beta Trio, Miguel Zenon and James Brandon Lewis. All concerts during the festival will Costumes are mandatory to get into the party, which will take place both in Mikser be held at Dom Omladine. Tickets for all shows can also be purchased at the Dom House and Magacin Depo at the same time, with multiple stages in play. Tickets at Omladine box office. The festival starts on October 28th and ends on November 1st. the door will cost five euros if you don't get around to a donation.

Punk luminaries Cello metal Vibes Party to go Americana stars at Mikser House feature seven DJs Los Angeles Sean Wheeler and Zander Schloss are rockers at KC Grad The Finnish band Apocalyptica This big dance party will feature seven both known for their contributions to Canadian thrash became famous for playing covers of DJs, coming from four different coun- over the last few decades, legends in Serbia for first time The Zig Zags have only been around heavy metal classics using nothing but tries and six different cities. Among but that's not what they play when they since 2010, but they have made their cellos. After many successful albums them are Spacewalker, Master Flow, get together. When they perform, it's Although these Canadian thrash metal mark in the noisy work of underground and tours, they have added a singer to Mystee and J-BUCK. The music played all about Americana, throwing in influ- pioneers have been playing for 30 rock'n'roll. Drawing on influences from their sound for the first time, which can will obviously be as diverse as the DJs ences from soul, gospel, bluegrass, folk, years, Annihiliator have yet to play in Black Sabbath to Motorhead and The be heard in their new album “Shadow- themselves. The party takes place at country and any other musical style Belgrade. That all changes on October Ramones, their music is more about maker”. If you'd rather listen to cello KC Grad on October 9th. Entrance is free that is inherently American. They play 16th, when they come to Dom Omladine. vitriol than anything else. They play metal than guitar metal, head over to before 9pm and only about two euros on October 18th in KC Grad and tickets Expect hits that span the band's entire on October 21st at KC Grad and tickets Mikser House on October 16th for this after. will be just seven euros at the door. career. Tickets on the door will be €25. cost only five euros. instead of Annihilator. Tickets cost €25. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, October 09 - Thursday, October 22, 2015 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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