Issue No. 211 Friday, July 22 - Thursday, September 08, 2016 ORDER DELIVERY TO Belgrade ‘failing to Political Must-see YOUR DOOR +381 11 4030 303 develop satirists eye music [email protected] - ISSN 1820-8339 1 mid-market Belgrade local festivals BELGRADE INSIGHT IS PUBLISHED BY 0 1 tourism’ elections in August

Page 5 Page 9 Page 13 9 7 7 1 8 2 0 8 3 3 0 0 0 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough Experts EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser Serbia turns blind eye doubt dual - - - to rare bird slaughter educationNEWS

willNEWS work Once a common in Serbia sight, turtle doves “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. and quails are in- A number of creasingly rare in experts say hopes page 10 Europe - thanks that German- partly to illegal style vocational

poaching which training will bring hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro - However, a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football is also rampant in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. down youth W Serbia. unemployment June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, are misplaced. Dragan GMIZIĆ page 5

s the official start of the Saša DRAGOJLO quail hunting season on August 1st looms, the rime Minister-designate, atmosphere at the Bird Aleksandar Vučić, has conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the Protection and Study long been a champion After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party ASociety of Serbia, DZPPS, is becoming of installing a German- E increasingly busy. style “dual education” While some members are getting in system in Serbian voca- touch with ornithologists all over Ser- Ptional secondary schools, which he is bia, others are adding details to maps convinced could reduce the high rate Friday • June 13 2008 of local hunting grounds. The more de- of unemployment of the young. tails they have, the more prepared they Around 45 per cent of young people will be for the coming season, DZPPS are unemployed in Serbia, according members say. to data from the National Employment THIS ISSUE OF

Service for 2015. Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED Continued on page 2 Ecologists say hunting is a major reason why the populations of some bird species are tumbling. Photo: DZPPS “Dual education is the most signifi- on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic cant matter that the Serbian govern- which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T ment needs to address if it wants to ensure a future to young people,“ Vučić told the 2nd International Congress on ISIS recruiters prey on Vocational and Professional Education and Training, in Winterthur, Switzer- land, on June 25th. Bosnia’s forgotten youth He has since emphasized dual edu- cation as important for the economy happened...I grew a beard, went to The average age of those who went to because it creates “an entrepreneurial With no systems in place to shield the the Fahd Mosque. A lot of brothers the battlefields is about 27, and about spirit in teenagers”. young from Islamic radicalization, it is up were there. I met them and then you 80 minors are among them. “We need a brave Minister of Educa- joined some of their activities. I went to tion to make difficult and courageous to parents and NGOs to win them back. Briješće, to the džemat [para-mosque] LACK OF PROSPECTS decisions,” Vučić said on July 13th. of theirs for lectures. Most of them from LEADS TO ISIS The dual system of education, as es- Džana BRKANIĆ I could no longer live on one or two dol- there went to the Islamic State,” he rec- tablished in Germany, represents the Denis DŽIDIĆ lars from my parents. There I met a girl ollected. Analyst Osman Softić says that many idea of learning at work or on the job. who took me into the world of Islam.” He stayed in the world of radical Is- young people in Bosnia feel hopeless, In addition to acquiring knowledge knew little about faith,” He told BIRN how, following the lead lam for about four years, after which he which is why some depart for the Is- of theory in schools, pupils gain practi- starts a 31-year-old Sara- of the girl, he got married “before the started focusing on college and he got lamic State. cal knowledge of a trade through work- jevo resident, recalling brothers in a mosque”, joined the Salafi divorced. “Young people feel they do not stand places in enterprises. his introduction to the movement and soon became, in his The exact number of Salafi follow- a chance. Some are not as educated as However, some educational and twilight world of radical own words, “very radical. ers in Bosnia and Herzegovina is not they should be, and in certain places economic experts in Serbia claim that Islam. “In high school, “I started fasting every other day, be- known, but estimates put it at several they do not have adequate resources,” transferring such a system to Serbia we“I did everything but study – concerts, cause I thought I needed to catch up,” thousand. he said. will be hard. pot and alcohol,” he recalled. he said. According to Bosnia’s security agen- “After high school I took a break from “I wanted to worship for the years cies, over 200 of them have left to fight college and got a job as a waiter because when I hadn’t ... all sorts of things in Syria and Iraq over the last few years. Continued on page 8 Continued on page 7

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 22 - Thursday, September 08, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 22 - Thursday, September 08, 2016 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 COMMENT Serbia turns blind eye The agony and ecstasy to rare bird slaughter of Serbian ‘repats’ There are five emotional stages why not? Welcome to the first stage of the them after all those years. They are all a bit all these years? Maybe it was better to see emotional journey from ‘the Other Place’ different, some have moved away, some are some people just once or twice a year? to navigate before making your back home. planning to, but they are people who you What have you done with your life? grew up with and you feel safe with them. homeland home again, says one 2. THE PLUNGE You also hear about all the great new things 5. THE REBOOT HUNTING BY NUMBERS you can do back home: even the stuff you expat-turned-‘repat’. After a lot of thinking, soul-searching thought you would miss from ‘the Other As the panic wears off, you realise that The quail hunting season and some planning, you decide to take the Place’ is available now. On top of that, there you need a different strategy. You need to in Serbia starts on August plunge. It is difficult to leave your adopted are so many opportunities: basically eve- see Serbia with fresh eyes. You realise that 1st. The ban on turtle dove Eventually, overworked and frazzled, country. You will miss some of the foods ryone you meet has a great idea and you Serbia is not the country you left before, hunting is in force this year probably in a cramped room somewhere in (some do measure up to Serbian stand- can see your foreign expertise (and capital) and that it is definitely not the one you and expires in March 2017. a big international city, you started thinking ards), culture and your new friends. You launching it and achieving dizzying levels thought you were moving back to. Yes, even The Serbian Bird Protection of Serbia. will probably also lose some money, but of success. It sure is great to be back. Still, in Serbia things change but they do so less and Study Society says that hey, the quality of life is so much better in many people think you are crazy, why are predictably. Again, overworked and fraz- it will monitor the hunting 1. THE SIREN CALL Serbia for so much less. they so negative? zled, although potentially in a much big- season. The Agriculture Back home some of your friends will ger room, you work through your options. Ministry has confirmed that You went there recently and found it so surely tell you that you are mad to come 4. THE PANIC Many times. Propelled by the renewed re- 25 inspectors are also ready good that you barely remember why you back (but they are just being negative, aren’t alisation that Serbia just does not work for for the coming season. left in the first place. Back home, people they?), and maybe your neighbours will A few months pass and you start remem- you, you start considering whether to start Serbia has about 75,000 are always out, they stick together and, think that you failed and had to return (who bering why you left in the first place. Many afresh abroad. registered hunters. About although they complain, surely it cannot cares?) and maybe you’ll lose your worldly- people in kafanas (traditional Serbian res- However, you decide to stay put. You can 1,000 foreign hunters come be that bad – many of them seem to have wise credibility with your friends (surely taurants) are just sitting there because they also try and build your life here again. You to Serbia each year. pretty decent lives. they like you for other reasons?). have nothing else to do here. The wacky can learn how to insulate yourself from the You have some modest savings and a With all concerns melting away, you political news you found semi-entertaining nasty aspects of this society (political mach- COST OF GREEN CRIME cracking business idea just waiting to be decide: you are going home. Back to Ser- when aboard starts to frustrate and annoy inations, barely-functioning system) and unleashed and, above all, your family and bia, the land of your youth, eternal coffee- you, mostly because these wacky events thrive on the good ones (gregariousness, An Interpol and UN report Srđan GARČEVIĆ old friends await. drinking and possibility. now directly affect you. Sadly, your busi- good food, generosity). On the business side published in June says On top of that, you long ago realised that ness plan is in ruins: nobody has done you can readjust, usually though a couple of so-called environmental t some point you decided to things in your adopted country are not as 3. THE HONEYMOON what you want to do because it is impos- well-informed and connected friends. You crime is costing the world leave for foreign lands, with easy as you hoped they would be: it seems sible in the way you imagined it. You can’t can shed some of the old social circles, and economy roughly 258 billion the aim, perhaps, of getting that every system (even a Western one!) suf- During the first few days you are over- find the right people, or the necessary in- gain new ones. You can make it work back US dollars a year. Green an education, pursuing a fers from the lack of meritocracy and stabil- whelmed. It is just like when you went put, or there is some ridiculous regulation home, just not in the way you imagined. or environmental crime career in a better organised ity you once thought only plagued Serbia. back home for holidays but better. You see in the way or you will step on someone’s includes illegal logging, place,A or just seeing what life is like outside Besides - Serbia is home and, well, they everyone and you rejoice at the thought of toes. Most painfully, there are the personal Srđan Garčević is a writer and a founder of poaching, illegal fishing and Serbia. always said you can always go back - so finally having enough time to spend with things: why is everyone so different after The Nutshell Times blog. illegal trade in protected species as well as pollution. Dragan Šormaz, president of the Hunting Association of Serbia, says his association has “nothing to do with” illegal hunting. Photo: Beta “Weak state judiciaries and underpaid security forces he information that or- BIRN journalists personally wit- turtle doves?’ she says…. ‘You don’t toms services intercepted illegal ship- facilitate the development nithologists are most nessed hunting inspectors ignoring know what kind of pressure I’m under ments of shot turtle doves and quails of criminal networks that interested in is on the calls from ecological activists and from non-governmental organizations only twice. act globally,” the report, number of foreign flatly refusing to go out in the field and to ban hunting,’ she told me.” Over the same period, customs ser- “The Rise of Environmental hunters - and on the formally record evidence of poach- That same year, along with photo- vices in Hungary and Croatia stopped Crime”, says. The report designated quail hunt- ing. graphs of himself with foreign hunt- roughly ten times as many shipments. describes environmental Ting areas. Ecological activists see this institu- ers and dozens of shot birds, Branislav In a 2001 operation codenamed crime as the world’s fourth The beginning of the hunting season tional disinterest as a result of political Arđanski, who runs a hunting tourism “Balkan Birds”, Italian police seized largest criminal enterprise, coincides with the time when turtle pressure. “There is trading in influence, agency in the Banat region, also posted over 100,000 shot birds that were after drug smuggling, doves and quails migrate from North- and state institutions often come under on Facebook a joint photograph taken smuggled from Serbia to Italy via ille- counterfeiting and human ern to Southern Europe and the Near the pressure of hunters who occupy with Čanak. gal routes. trafficking. East. high political posts,” DZPPS president "Thanks to my friend, Prime Minister While several people were detained Lying on one of the most important Milan Ružić said. Vučić has promised that turtle doves and penalized in connection with this LURING DEVICES bird migration routes, Serbia is an at- As proof of his thesis, Ružić cites im- will be hunted this year,” the caption case in Italy, no one was held account- tractive destination for hunters of these portant changes made to the Agricul- under Arđanski’s photograph reads. able in Serbia. Luring devices are electronic species. According to the Hunting Asso- ture Ministry’s two-year ban on turtle According to the Hunting Associa- To catch as many birds as possible, devices that emit a ciation of Serbia, most turtle dove and dove hunting, which was adopted in tion of Serbia, some 7,000 turtle doves hunters use means prohibited by law, programmed bird-chirping quail hunters come from Italy, Cyprus, June 2015. and about 40,000 quails are shot every such as electronic devices that emit sound. The sound that the Greece as well as from Austria, Hunga- At a parliamentary session held just year. bird chirping sounds and lure birds birds hear is a sign for them ry and Germany. a few days after the ministry’s decision, Most of these shot birds are probably into traps. DZPPS activists routinely that the ground below is The importance to tourism of hunt- on July 2nd, 2015, MP Nenad Čanak op- exported illegally because the export of complain of the massive use of these safe and that there is a lot of ing quails and turtle doves is a topic posed the decision, insisting that the wildlife meat is banned in Serbia because devices. food. Article 76 paragraph 7 that hunters and nature conservation- two-year moratorium would damage its veterinary legislation has not yet been Serbia’s Agriculture Ministry mean- of Serbia’s Law on Wildlife ists have been arguing about for years. hunting tourism agencies. harmonized with EU regulations. while says the drafting of a new Law and Hunting, adopted in While the Hunting Association and Commenting that he “couldn’t care Hunters pay around three euros for on Hunting is underway, which will 2010, bans the use of the so- hunting tour agencies claim the poten- less about African turtle doves”, Prime every quail shot. At the end of the ille- introduce more stringent penalties for called lure devices. tial of hunting tourism is insufficiently Minister-designate Aleksandar Vučić gal chain, in exclusive restaurants in EU, poaching and illegal hunting. The pro- exploited, ecologists say hunting is a accepted the opposition MP’s claim. a served wild quail can cost as much as visions will include a ban on hunting LUXURY DISH major reason why stocks of these birds Days later, the Agriculture Ministry €60. and the loss of the right to bear arms. are tumbling. decision was amended so that, instead “There is no exact information but Dragan Šormaz, president of the Wild quail have always been Data from the International Union for of a two-year ban covering both the the business is worth several million Hunting Association of Serbia, says his a symbol of culinary luxury, Conservation of Nature, IUCN, show the 2015 and 2016 seasons, turtle dove euros per year. Turtle doves and quails association has “nothing to do with” il- reserved mainly for members number of common quails and turtle hunting was banned only in 2016. are hunted in Serbia, not for trophies legal hunting. of higher social circles. One doves has fallen drastically since the Senior officials in the Agriculture but solely for the money,” DZZPS presi- “I personally urged the Interior Min- of the most famous and 1970s. Ministry told BIRN that they came un- dent Milan Ružić said. istry to set up a group or a task force, as oldest recipes that Eastern Last year, the turtle dove even joined der political pressure to modify the The courts also do little to curb wild they call it, to focus on poaching, which European tycoons today the so-called “red list” of endangered ban. bird poaching. would prevent poaching and pursue enjoy - just like Egyptian species because numbers had dropped MP Čanak admitted to having spo- Over the past ten years, the DZPPS poachers … but these people are not pharaohs and Roman by about 80 per cent over the past 30 ken with Agriculture Minister Snežana has officially filed over 100 complaints hunters!” he said. emperors did of old - is quail years. Bogosavljević Bošković about the ban. against the illegal hunting, capture and “Things here are often mixed up and stuffed with prosciuttto and BIRN research shows that, along with “I asked her about the African turtle trade of wild birds. It claims that judges poachers are confused with hunters. fig and wrapped in a vine being understaffed and lacking techni- doves,” Čanak told a panel debate at the and prosecutors often have no under- That is wrong and shouldn’t be done. leaf. In Serbian cuisine, quail cal capacity, institutions tasked with Belgrade Youth Centre in November standing of poaching laws or misread As for smuggling, that’s up to the police is served seasoned well with controling hunting in Serbia take little 2015. them. and customs service. What’s that got to salt and baked. interest in toughening their approach “She, of course, doesn’t understand Research shows that, in the past ten do with the Hunting Association – noth- to poaching. what I’m talking about. ‘What African years, Serbian border guards and cus- ing,” he added. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 22 - Thursday, September 08, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 22 - Thursday, September 08, 2016 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Through the The Belgrade art of partying Belgrade ‘failing to develop eyes of a Gen Y A local nightclub When it’s time to lay out the entrepreneur is welcome mat for friends or family hoping to export mid-market tourism’ visiting Belgrade, I’ve got the wining Belgrade’s famous and dining sorted. nightlife culture The city needs more “About 60 per cent of all tourist revenue in hostel that has now been turned Serbia is generated by Belgrade,” Vasilijević said. into a very casual hangout with around the world. mid-range hotels, a mod- “The priority should be Belgrade but once the city cheap beer and a snooker table. reaches its potential as a tourist destination, we Located a few floors up an aging building, it’s less busy in summer Natalia ŽABA ernised convention should expect a spill-over effect to the rest of Ser- purely because it doesn’t have bia.” any outdoor seating – but don’t elgrade is considered centre, and innovative, Genov says an internal HORES survey conduct- let that turn you off. one of the Balkans’ best ed earlier this year indicated 46 per cent of tour- places for nightlife. Al- accessible museums to ists who visited the city during the summer came It also has a particularly relaxed closing time, commonly staying though the city’s offer- for pleasure, compared to 31 who travelled to Bel- open until the last of its patrons ings might not always boost tourist numbers, grade on business. The remaining 23 per cent of re- Emma KRSTIĆ decide it’s time to head home. measure up to the experts say. spondents came to the capital to attend seminars, world’s highest standards, it’s definitely summits or other educational programmes. Just around the corner is B Whenever I have visitors come to stay, I can’t help but feel a another top spot called Kućica rich and varied, and available seven “What this has illustrated is that Belgrade has sense of duty to make sure they at number 15 on a dodgy, dead- days a week. Vera OVANIN big potential to attract even more tourists. That leave with nothing but good end street called Borislav Pekić, Now, one enterprising nightlife blog- is people who come here for all kinds of cultural things to say about the city. named after the famous Serbian ger, concierge and former promoter is he city must increase the number festivals, summits, sports events, different exhibi- Basically, I want them to love it as writer and activist, whom I am Savić ranks among Belgrade’s best known nightlife Photo: Courtesy of Marko Savić much as I do. told used to reside here. planning to export Belgrade’s party ex- service providers. of one to three-star hotels and up- tions etc.,” he says, noting that the city has attract- pertise to a global market. grade key exhibition and heritage ed more tourists from neighbouring countries in Its top tourist attractions, which Kućica’s relaxed courtyard regation in Belgrade: you can find many nightlife tourists are also interested in centres to properly develop its bur- recent years. of course include the Nikola comes with a projector to boot, CLUBBER EXTRAORDINAIRE completely different venues mixed ‘splavs’, the open-air discotheques situ- geoning tourism industry, warn “This is partly because Belgrade has bolstered Tesla museum and Tito’s grave, with films and football games together in a single neighbourhood ated on boats on the banks of the Sava experts. efforts to promote itself as a destination in regional are recommended in just about often screened on the back wall every travel guide, but it’s the during the warmer months. Marko Savić, 33, started his Belgrade and changing from one to another only and Danube rivers. TThe capital has a total of 90 hotels, three with capitals. And, partly, the trend grew on the heels bars and restaurants you’ve nightlife adventure as a regular club- takes a few minutes on foot. five stars, 48 with four stars, 28 with three stars, of the situation in Ukraine, so tourists that would really got to be in the know of to Arguably the best meat restau- goer after finishing secondary school Yet, if only visiting Belgrade for a NIGHTLIFE UNIVERSITY nine with two stars, and two with one star – accord- have gone there have chosen Belgrade as their show off the city’s best side. rant in the city is also located in Ohio and returning to his native Bel- weekend, it is much more effective to ing to figures released by Serbia’s Trade, Tourism destination instead. Now, it is up to us to build on in the neighbourhood. Rusmir After a lot of testing, I’ve whittled (Braničevska 12a) is a small, no grade. use someone who knows the city well Savić also wants to teach others how and Telecommunications Ministry last month. this momentum and promote the city’s brand my top picks down to a manage- frills dining spot where you sim- Today, Savić, a journalist and public as a guide. Visitors who pay for Savić’s to provide four-star nightclub service. To “There are too many hotels with four stars in even more,” he explains. able list of eight places I always ply have two options to choose relations specialist by trade, is not only services get personally escorted to the that end, four years ago he bought a cam- Belgrade right now. They cater to business profes- Genov is particularly critical of the city’s muse- turn to for giving visitors a taste from: ribs or sausages. Both are a clubber, but ranks among Belgrade’s most exclusive clubs, ushered through era and started travelling around Eu- sionals and other high-end visitors, and they cur- ums: “For example, the Nikola Tesla Museum should of Belgrade’s food and drink divine. scene. best known nightlife service providers, the long lines without waiting and are rope, interviewing the most successful rently represent 53 per cent of all hotels, which is be in the heart of the city, not in what was a privately- And as if Vračar didn’t have as owner of the nightclub concierge given the best tables. nightclub managers and service provid- too high,” Georgi Genov, head of Serbia’s Business owned house on the outskirts of the city core.” I’ll start with Blaznavac (Kneginje enough going for it, there’s also portal, ‘Belgrade at Night’. It has happened that groups of be- ers on their experience and tips for those Association of Hotel and Restaurant Industry, He has urged the city authorities to take an inno- Ljubice 18). Although many Villa Maska (Rankeova 7), which Savić defines a ‘clubber’ as an outgo- tween five and ten clubbers even spent who see their future in the industry. HORES, told BIRN. vative approach to culture and heritage manage- people seem to overlook it these has one of the most magical out- ing person who loves music, dance, thousands of euros per weekend. Savić found many VIP insiders “A more appropriate composition for these hotel ment. days, this quirky and colourful door areas I’ve come across in watering hole remains one of my the city, featuring vine-covered laughter, fun and people. A consum- But he feels that business could grow among the fifty nightlife industry per- types would be 34 per cent. What Belgrade lacks is “I would like to see a tourist attraction that com- favourite bars in Belgrade and I trellises and lantern-lit tables. mate clubber, unlike celebrities who go even faster if there were more cheap sonalities he interviewed. He talked quality hotels with three stars, two stars and one bines the National Museum and the legacy of Ser- honestly don’t think you can get a These do give it quite a date- out just to show off, sees going out as an flights from and better connections to Madonna’s producer, Neil Mclellan, star for weekend and city-break tourists.” bia’s renowned scientists including Nikola Tesla, better espresso martini in the city. night vibe. art. with Western countries. Armani’s club manager in Milan, Franc- Belgrade has witnessed a boom in the opening Mihajlo Pupin and Milutin Milanković. Imagine Plus, if the downstairs courtyard Moving back towards the To celebrate the true art of partying, “More people would visit Belgrade esko Stragaperde, and Martin van der of four-star hotels since 2006, when the IN Hotel seeing thunder and lightning in the middle of the doesn’t do it for you, the venue city centre, the relatively new Savić started a blog, www.belgradeat- and many different industries, citizens Ven from Amsterdam’s White Sensa- was built following a 17-year lull in construction. city square,” he says.“People would be interested has also recently expanded into Japanese restaurant Marukoshi night.com, eleven years ago. and the city itself could gain more,” says tion club. The last time a large, high-end hotel was opened in to see this but we don’t know how to package it.” the house next door, so you can (Kapetan-Mišina 37) in Lower On it, he shares comprehensive infor- Savić. While those insiders offered their ex- the city before then was back in 1989, prior to the Asked to comment on how the city handles wander upstairs to find a table Dorćol is a handy place to keep mation about the Belgrade club scene pertise to Savić for free, the content is Balkan wars of the 1990s, with the construction of A survey conducted earlier this year indicated 46 per cent of tourists who visited Photo: Flickr/Jorge Lascar tourism, Vesna Nađ, spokesperson for the Tourist in what would have once been a in your back pocket for anyone the city during the summer came for pleasure. living room. with a love of Asian cuisine. and offers various amenities for for- SPLAVS BRING TOURISTS currently locked behind a paid access the Hyatt hotel. Organization of Belgrade, TOB, agreed improving eigners hoping to acquaint themselves firewall on his website. However, Savić “When the expansion started, the growth was offer only the service of an overnight stay, they view with Dragutin Nenezić, the city’s public-pri- exhibition efforts and museums would be a step in Smokvica, which has several lo- But the ‘show-stopper’, the place with the capital’s famous nightlife “in Over 782,000 tourists visited Bel- plans to redesign the site and open the organic at an annual rate of about 10 per cent,” have to offer the possibility for this experience. vate partnership and investment aide, published the right direction. cations around Belgrade, also al- that I save for the final dinner VIP style”. grade in 2015, a nine per cent increase content for free for all users within the says Aleksandar Vasilijević, general manager of These would include salons for meet-ups, and the in November by the daily newspaper Politika. “Of course, what Mr Genov is talking about ways delivers. The one in Vračar on anyone’s trip, is Manufaktura (Molerova 33) is my favourite; its (Kralja Petra 13) with its combina- “Belgrade is a small city compared to over 2014, according to the Tourist Or- next few months. the four-star Falkensteiner Hotel. mixing of different cultures… and you can’t have Nenezić was also quoted as saying the upgrades would be very attractive and everyone present huge courtyard with large, leafy tion of delectable Serbian fare an European metropolis like London. ganization of Belgrade. He is also planning to launch a night- However, after this initial period of “organic” that in the cramped quarters of illegal hostels set would be completed by 2018 if construction starts probably wouldn’t be able to take their eyes off it,” trees make is the perfect venue and modern country kitchen That’s why in Belgrade, within one area, The majority of tourists that Savić life job portal for jobseekers. growth, Vasilijević says a number of property in- up in private residences,” Genov explains. at the end of 2016. she told BIRN. décor. for a Sunday lunch. you can find a wide variety of night- sees, except those from ex-Yu coun- “The Internet today requires free- vestors redirected investments from other com- Another issue plaguing the local hotel industry As for promoting mid-market tourism in Bel- In fact, Vračar is full of gems. That rounds out my top eight, clubs – reggae, rive, turbo folk, techno, tries, come from Greece, Switzerland, dom, and people don’t want to see a mercial property to hotels. is the dilapidated convention centre, the Sava Cen- BRANDING BELGRADE grade, Nađ said the TOB markets the city in vari- but we want to know some of rock,” says Savić. Turkey, Norway, Germany, and the paid content anymore. I want to de- “This is why we have so many small-scale, four- tre, located in New Belgrade. ous ways to attract a range of visitors. A few streets over from Smokvica your picks too! Share them using In his opinion, Serbian capital is un- United States. velop my nightlife university idea, and star hotels and the offer out strips demand,” he “It cannot be emphasised enough that up- Vasilijević and Genov agree the city needs to “We promote the city in a very layered way; Bel- is Chillton (Katanićeva 7), once a #BelgradeTips. organized compared to a city like Lon- Turbo folk is the main attraction for I hope to find a partner who will share says, adding that the hospitality market has ample grading the Sava Centre is a crucial step towards hire a professional, destination-management grade as a city of sport, Belgrade as a city of culture, don. On the other hand, there is no seg- many of them, Savić argues, adding my vision,” Savić concludes. room for at least two quality, three-star hotels – one strengthening the hotel industry, it’s not rocket sci- company that will promote Belgrade as a brand for Belgrade as a city break, for family, as a congres- by the airport and one in the city’s old town. ence,” Vasilijević says. visitors from the region and the rest of the world. sional centre etc.,” she said. Belgrade, with an estimated population of two “We lag behind, because convention halls are million, has a total of roughly 10,000 beds across being booked now for 2019… the Sava Centre is a ORDER DELIVERY TO all hotel types, only about half of which are occu- generator of tourism development and, unless we YOUR DOOR pied throughout the year. hurry, these companies will book their events in Find your copy of +381 11 4030 303 [email protected] “On the other hand Prague, with a population Zagreb, or whoever builds a centre first,” said Genov. Belgrade Insight here: http://www.balkaninsight.com/en/ of 1.2 million, has a combined bed capacity of Genov stresses visitors come to attend a con- page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight 60,000,” Genov says. vention but then also visit other heritage sites and He expects existing four-star hotels will see leisure facilities, including monasteries and spa their revenue fall further over the next three years, centres. which will encourage investors to shift towards “The Sava Centre must remain competitive in backing three-star hotels. That said, he also be- light of teleconferences, webinars, one-day busi- LAZAR LUX APARTMENTS HOTEL EXCELSIOR HOTEL JUMP INN TOURIST ORGANISATION OF SERBIA THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL lieves the city “needs more five-star hotels, three ness trips...right now, it’s a massive black hole,” he Address: Stjepana Ljubiše 31 Address: Kneza Miloša 5 Address: Koče Popovića 2a Address: Čika Ljubina 8 SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Smetanina 12 such hotels is on the low side”. says. Djordje is the famous Belgrade restaurant, MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT BISTRO BAR NATIONAL FOUNDATION The Sava Centre has 15 conference halls of dif- known for its incredible specialties of global and Address: Čika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovića 5 Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 FOR DANCE RADISSON BLU OLD HOSTEL BOOM ferent sizes catering for groups of between 20 and regional cuisine. 4,000 people. It also comprises 3,300 square me- Address: Kolarčeva 3 MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE For decades team of chefs at Djordje has been SKVER 44 The shortage of quality low-cost hotels in Bel- tres of indoor exhibition space. No other centre in HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 creating gastronomic masterpieces, prepared from Address: Požeška 44a grade has given rise to hostels, whose owners have Belgrade, including the BELEXPOCENTAR built in Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovića 10 RESTAURANT BIZU www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade carefully selected class ingredients. Address: Andre Nikolića 1-3 stepped in to fill the void and take advantage of un- 2007, can match the capacity of the Sava Centre. INTERGALACTIC DINNER HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL VOZAREV RESTAURANT ĐORĐE met tourist demand. The Sava Centre was considered cutting edge Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 Address: Studentski trg 9 Address: Pop Stojanova 16 CAFE CAFFE LOUNGE Address: Moravska 10 “The problem is that the hostels are not catego- when it was built in the late 1970s, but its infra- Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Vase Pelagića 48 rised the way hotels are, so we don’t have data we structure and technology have since deteriorated. Moravska 10 Mihajla Pupina 85A (Corner with Hadži Milentijeva) CAFE SNEŽANA HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF can study to track tourist demand. The second Today, it struggles to meet international conven- Belgrade Address: Knez Mihailova 50 Restaurant Mali vrabac MIXER HOUSE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF BELGRADE problem is that many are not even registered and tion standards. TEL.FAX: Address: Skadarska 34 Address: Karađorđeva 46 Address: Temišvarska 19 do not pay appropriate taxes. According to local news media reports in March, +381 11 344 14 22 KOLARAC “Hostels need to cater to the needs of the young- Belgrade has invited bids from potential investors Address: Studentski trg 5 HOTEL MERIOT PIZZERIA ALO-ALO KNJIŽARA APROPO Address: Kolarčeva 7 [email protected] er demographic who come to Belgrade to ex- to renovate the Sava Centre. The upgrade is expect- www.restorandjorjde.rs Address: Vase Čarapića 2-4 Svetozara Markovića 19a Address: Cara Lazara 10 change experiences, meet people – they shouldn’t ed to cost around €25 million, according to an inter- 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 22 - Thursday, September 08, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 22 - Thursday, September 08, 2016 7 BELGRADE BUSINESS

Continued from page 1 Republic Square ‘to be cleaned’ of public buses Delays dog Slavija Square’s Belgrade City Architect Milutin Folić told the media on July 20th that the city plans to move the Experts doubt dual education terminals for buses 96, 27 and long-promised upgrade 27E from Republic Square to New

Belgrade’s Blok 20. Work on the in brief Belgrade changes is expected to be done by The roads, including the tram rails will work in Serbia the end of September. With and the pedestrian zone, will also be Along with the terminals at Blok rebuilt and repaved, as will Bulevar 20, another new terminal will construction Oslobođenja Street, which leads from his is because it requires, ic foundations if it is to work well. “Dual be located on Dunavska Steet, the western part of the city to Slavija first and foremost, a stable education model can be developed which will become the starting work yet to Square. Some new roads have been and predictable economy only in a stable economic environ- and ending point for buses 43,32E promised. that can absorb those ment,” he said. and 35. “The aim is to free the begin, there youngsters equipped “But to have a stable economic envi- city centre from the excessive OPPOSITION: ‘CITY with these skills. ronment, you also need a stable social number of buses and turn it into a seems little OFFICIALS INCAPABLE’ TSome also claim that pushing chil- and political environment, which in- pedestrian zone,”Folić said. Plans dren from mostly poor families into cludes the rule of law,” he added. also include removing terminals at chance But before any work can actually be- “one-trade-oriented” education ce- Student Square and Zeleni venac, gin, the monument to the famous Ser- ments class inequalities and prevents DANGER OF CEMENTING one of the city’s biggest terminals. Belgrade’s bian socialist and publisher Dimitrije children from developing the high CLASS INEQUALITY Tucović needs to be relocated to an as educational skills that are needed in to- Free river tours on busiest yet unbuilt park near the square and day’s complex economy. Serbia adopted an Education Strat- offer in the capital his remains transferred to Belgrade’s Srbijanka Turajlić, Assistant Higher egy in 2012 designed to pave the way square will be Alley of the Great – part of the city’s New Education Minister from 2001 to 2004 towards a modernized system of edu- The City of Belgrade and the Cemetery where distinguished nation- and a retired professor at the Electro- cation of children by 2020 and promot- Secretariat for Economy are revamped by als are buried. Technical Faculty at Belgrade Univer- ing “the concept of lifelong learning”. financing free Danube and Sava The local administration pledged to sity, warns: “Dual education demands But Turajlić claims that the German- river tours through November 1st. the original move the monument by the end of May economies in which you can predict style system skills pupils generally only Free tours kick off every Monday, but Tucović is still proudly standing in how the job market will look in next ten for one specific job or trade. Wednesday and Friday at 6pm at November the middle of the Slavija Square, just as years, and that is not a case in Serbia”. “The pupils will learn only one con- Jahting Klub Kej, located in New he has since 1949. Turajlić told BIRN that Serbia’s econ- crete job and will be uneducated in the Belgrade, Ušće bb. Reservations deadline. All these unfulfilled promises and omy cannot usefully be compared with series of other directions which are need- are required and can be booked missed deadlines have sparked out- the high-developed economies of Ger- ed in today’s complex world,” she said. by calling +381 64 82 51 120 rage, especially among local opposi- many, Austria and Switzerland, which Dual education was also introduced and +381 64 82 51 150. Tour tion parties who claim the revamp use some models of dual education. in Germany in the second half of the attractions include: War Island, Ivana NIKOLIĆ was nothing but an empty pre-election Serbia began the process of introduc- 1960s mainly to ease into employment Nebojša’s Tower, Kalemegdan, and promise. ing elements of the dual model system the children of workers who had come scenic views of Sava river bridges. ver the past sever- The Belgrade branch of the Social in 2014 with the introduction of three from other countries. al months, the local Democratic Party, led by Serbia’s for- educational fields in the system: lock- Ilić agrees. He claims that because Contemporary art museum to get new administration has re- mer president Boris Tadić, accused Bel- smith welder, industrial mechanic and the system is aimed mostly at lower look peatedly postponed grade City Manager Goran Vesić and electrician. income families, in that way it cements starting work on the Mayor Siniša Mali “of being incapable of So far, about 40 companies have and reproduces social inequalities. Reconstruction work on Belgrade’s long-promised re- handling big infrastructure projects” in opened their doors to 400 students “This education is aimed at the lower Museum of Contemporary Art Ovamp of the city centre’s square Slavija. the capital. who are studying under this system Many claim that the German style system skills pupils generally only for one specific job or trade. Photo: Beta classes of citizens, especially those will start at the beginning of Delays have been triggered by a con- The road reconstruction will kick off next spring, Vesić said. Photo: Wikimedia Commons/The Miner “Once again, it turned out that phan- through a project led by the German who are not fully integrated. In Ger- August. Construction is projected stant lack of confirmed bids to build toms from the city administration Agency for Technical Cooperation, GIZ. tion of new educational profiles and the rights and obligations of all partici- are also getting fired because compa- many, this measure does not have only to last for eight or nine months, both the fountain – which is supposed that has begun is the demolition of some BIRN requested more comments on know how to use dredges only for ille- The latest progress made in the im- involvement of more schools and com- pants,” Kovačević explained. nies have to cut staff levels because of an economic purpose but an important the Museum’s acting head to be placed in the middle of the square buildings owned by the National Bank the project delays from the City of Bel- gal nocturnal demolitions, and not to plementation of dual education in Ser- panies in the process is foreseen. In 2016/2017, 16 schools more will be the losses they make,” Ilić said. social role - to facilitate the integration Slobodan Nakarada told the press – and to reconstruct the roundabout of Serbia on Kralja Milana Street, which grade as well as Belgrade City Manager build something in Belgrade,” the party bia came in February. Mirjana Kovačević, director of the involved in cooperative education with Around 75 per cent of those who en- of children from immigrant families,” conference on July 19th. and its run-down roads. leads to the Slavija Square from the city Vesić, who has made much of his com- said in a statement on July 2nd. This was when the government Centre for Education of the Serbian elements of the dual model, according rol in secondary school opt for a three he said. The museum has been closed According to various, somewhat centre. Demolition began last October, mitment to the long-overdue rebuild, The Social Democrats were refer- signed a memorandum of cooperation Chamber of Commerce, told BIRN that to data of Serbia’s Chamber of Com- or four-year programme. However, “But a large number of these children for several years because of the pompous, Belgrade City announce- but has not been completed yet. but did not receive a response by the ring to the covert, overnight demolition in the development of elements of dual the importance of dual education lies merce. most students who complete these pro- later drop out of the system and do not long-awaited and oft-delayed ments, the works were supposed to time of publication. on April 24th of some residential and education in secondary vocational in the fact that the education system grams then continue their education complete their education.” reconstruction. Along with the start on June 15th and end by November TENDER DEADLINE Despite the fact that little progress business premises by masked men in education. will be more attuned to the needs of the STABLE ECONOMY A for two reasons that are characteristic He also claims that an increasing Museum building, a long overdue 15th – that is within 155 days. EXTENDED has been made, the city authorities Hercegovačka Street in the Savamala In the memorandum, Austria offered labour market. CONDITION OF SUCCESS of a fragile economy. number of German companies are giv- renovation of the park surrounding Plans to rebuild the square are far have previously insisted the Slavija district. The area is earmarked as the support for Serbia in introducing dual “The workforce will be educated ac- “The [Serbian] labour market can- ing up arrangements for dual educa- it was announced. from new to Belgraders. There have The latest delays came in July, when Square renovation is a top construction site of the controversial upmarket Bel- education. cording to the needs of the economy, However, Dejan Ilić, an educational not absorb qualified personnel, and tion. been several different proposals over the public tender to build the square’s priority. grade Waterfront development. It was signed on one side by Austria’s with which we will adjust the offer expert and editor at the publishing secondly, students who graduate from In 2014, the Serbian Ministry of Edu- New residential area the years, including ones promising the giant fountain was postponed for the “For us, Slavija is the most important Serbian Prime Minister Aleksandar Minister for Europe and Integration, Se- and demand in the labour market,” house Fabrika knjiga [Book Factory], high school do not consider job offers cation ordered an eligibility study for in Zemun construction of underground passages. seventh time - without explanation. project... it is the most demanding re- Vučić admitted on June 8th that top bastian Kurz, the President of the Aus- Kovačević said. which publishes modern educational after high school attractive, which is implementing dual education in Ser- The current plan was made public The deadline for bids was extended construction because of the traffic and city officials were responsible for the trian Economic Chamber, Christoph The next step for the introduction of theory, told BIRN that if dual education why they decide to continue education bia from the German Society for Inter- Former military barracks in the in late August 2014, when the City of from May 27th to July 20th. Local author- the fact that around 70 to 80,000 pe- demolitions. However, it is still unclear Leitl, and on other side by Serbia’s Min- dual education in the Serbian school is to work, besides schools, you need and improve their chances of later em- national cooperation, GIZ, which also Belgrade municipality of Zemun Belgrade opened its doors to visitors ities announced on July 20th that a total destrians pass this route on a daily ba- exactly who was responsible and the ister of Education, Science and Techno- system is a new regulatory framework, lots of companies that need workers, ployment,” Ilić said. stressed the difficulties in transplanting are being demolished, paving so they could view the reconstruction of four offers arrived. The winner of the sis,” Vesić told the Tanjug news agency prosecutor’s office said the preliminary logical Development, Srđan Verbić and which will determine the rights and ob- which is not the case in Serbia. Saša Đogović, from the Institute of this model to Serbia. the way for a 100.000 square plan and submit suggestions. The au- bid should be known next week. in late March. investigation is ongoing. the president of Serbian Chamber of ligations of schools, companies, state “In Serbia, we are missing one of the Market Research in Belgrade, agrees. “Given the fragile structure of the cur- metre residential area named thorities then said construction would Apart from the delayed fountain bid, “If the works are not finished in 155 With the constant delays and the Commerce, Marko Čadež. and students, she said. two key partners - the economy. In Ser- He told BIRN that the idea of dual ed- rent Serbian economy, the starting ba- st Settlement Aleksa Dundić. The start by March 1 , 2015. it is also not known which other com- days, there will be penalties [for the local authorities repeatedly failing to Supported by Germany and Switzer- “So it will not only be a law, but a bia, not only can young people not find ucation is not bad itself, but demands sis for reform does not seem to be very Building Directorate of Serbia After months of silence, Belgrade panies will be contracted for roads re- construction firms] and if the construc- respond to questions about the Slavija land as well as Austria, the introduc- series of laws, which will fully cover work but experienced older workers serious political, cultural and econom- favourable,” the study concluded. City Manager Goran Vesić said works construction, as the final decision has tion is finished early [before the dead- Square rebuild, lots of things remain to confirmed that the final demolition would start in April this year. He then not been made yet. line], constructors will get bonuses,” be seen, when the works will start, who will be done in the fall, and that announced the start date was post- Vesić told the media on July 20th that Vesić added. will the contractors be and, most im- construction on the new buildings poned until June 15th. the only two offers that arrived do not When and if the square is completed, portantly, if there will be a revamp at all. will begin in early 2017. According In the latest development, Vesić meet the bid requirements, adding that Belgraders can expect a better and a In the meantime, Belgraders are Published by to media estimates, a total of came up with a new deadline - now the new bidding process will be open more functional Slavija, the authorities wondering if all the proposals and 1,500 flats will be built. The the end of spring 2017 - for the entire soon. promise. Pedestrian crossings should public fanfare that marked the revamp Directorate also announced that square, citing legal issues. He also said that the works on the foun- be distanced from the busy rounda- announcement amount to little more the flats will have an average price However, not much has been done. tain will start in autumn, while the road bout, which would enhance safety and than a fairy-tale about their much- of around €70,000. The only stage of the renovation project reconstruction will kick off next spring. also better regulate traffic flow. loved Slavija Square. A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO NEWS AND ANALYSIS OUR PREMIUM CONTENT hese plaques are located on IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE the wall of Dečanska Street 13 for in-depth analysis, in downtown Belgrade and pay investigative reports, tribute to Serbian lawyers and features, interviews, legal clerks who died fighting in commentary and profiles WorldT War II, which lasted in Yugoslavia from on the latest business and 1941 until 1945. political headlines. Apart from the main plaque with memoran- dum words, two additional ones list the names of those who were killed. The building in Dečanska Street now OTHER SERVICES: houses the offices of the Bar Association of

Hidden Belgrade Belgrade. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 22 - Thursday, September 08, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 22 - Thursday, September 08, 2016 9 REGION FACES Continued from page 1 Political satirists eye ISIS Belgrade local elections recruiters dates such as Beli, Vlajić says the group A spoof political are trying to change things in Mladeno- vac for the better. group that came Vlajić and Maksimović insist they second in Mlade- will not transform into a bone fide polit- prey on ical party because “all politics are dirty” but they will do their best to force the lo- novac’s local elec- cal administration to operate transpar- tion by pledging to ently and hold politicians to account. “Now, after becoming the second Bosnia’s ‘lie transparently’ most powerful group in the Mladeno- vac assembly, we want to create civic say they might administration,” says Vlajić. “We want to create a strong opposition… to show field candidates at people that politics needs to be respon- forgotten sible and transparent.” the next Belgrade They will have their work cut out for them. Political power in Serbia is gener- City Assembly ally centralised and Mladenovac is one vote. of 17 municipalities that is largely gov- youth erned by the Belgrade City Assembly. While acknowledging municipalities do not wield much power in Serbia, the Natalia ŽABA group is nevertheless attempting to ef- ometimes there are her son still has many acquaintances in fect change. They have begun distrib- personal reasons as the Salafi community. e’re very in- uting local government recruitment well, family occur- She remembers how her 19-year-old terested in notices via social media to tackle nepo- rences and typically son could not find a job last year after what is going tism and cronyism and also raise public a feeling of humili- finishing high school, and, a bit embar- on in Bel- awareness of state-sector employment ation. They try to rassed, adds that he had “a few drug grade… We opportunities. find“S salvation and the meaning of life, problems. “Wcare about what is going on there but “We send over our social media a sense of belonging,” Softić explained. “One night he came back and said he we cannot say that we’ll [definitely] take channels information about current Unemployment among the young wanted a motorcycle. We had a fight. part in the [Belgrade assembly] elec- competitions and people have told in Bosnia is the highest in the region, His father said he couldn’t have one… tions, on the other hand we do not ex- us that without us, they’d never know amounting to 57 per cent, according to First a job, then a motorcycle. Then he clude it as an option,” says Stevan Vlajić, that competitions are open for serious, an economic report for South East Eu- left home,” she said. the creator of a spoof political character, management positions,” says Vlajić. Experts argue it is important that government institutions recognize the problem and work on Photo: Wikimedia Commons rope by the World Bank. “Those people from the village got punishing those who promote this mindset and who encourage others in radical thinking. Nebojša Preletačević – Beli, that lam- “Even if the majority [in the Mlad- According to the Corruption Percep- him hooked on bikes. We wanted him poons Serbia’s political system. enovac assembly] manages to employ tions Index of Transparency Interna- to get a job and to ride a motorcycle find me one book of God, which says of it and that, come judgment day, she BOSNIA HAS NEGLECTED Nebojša Preletačević - Beli, ‘played’ people without qualifications, we’ll de- tional, Bosnia is facing a “total collapse with papers. He answered that the po- you can kill someone, this does not ex- needed to dedicate herself to testifying PROMOTION OF VALUES by Luka Maksimović, a 25-year-old mand to hear their reasons for doing so. of the system”. The organisation notes a lice couldn’t touch him and he did not ist!” the father said. against her family, which is very sinful,” friend of Vlajić’s, is a caricature of the Nepotism won’t be that easy anymore,” higher level of corruption there than in need papers,” she added. After a period, the parents say that Heremić said. Sociologist Ivan Sijaković says one very worst of Serbian politicians, com- promises Vlajić, and Maksimović nods other countries in the region. “He started to go on about bikes and their son stopped talking about leaving In the beginning, Heremić recol- problem is that systemic work with plete with fake university diploma, in agreement. The young man who agreed to speak grew a beard and that was the begin- for foreign battlefields. He found a girl lected, working with this girl was hard. young people, as well as their guidance wealth that is unaccounted for and With the presidential elections set for for BIRN says that he did not get close to ning, but after a while, this was no long- and turned his life around. There was a lot of resistance and every- towards positive, useful and moral a tendency to make empty populist 2017 and the group’s popularity across radical Islam because of drugs or pov- er cute, he started to talk about battle- “I brought him back 100 per cent, just thing that was suggested met tantrums. work and behaviour, has disappeared promises purely to win votes. the country, is it possible Beli could erty – though he knows many who did fields and the Islamic State and then we by talking… This is all because of the “In conversation, she often directed in Bosnia. His promises included giving the stand on his “transparent liar” platform – but purely “out of love." realized we had to do something,” the unemployment; if some companies her anger towards those who had sepa- “Young people have been forgotten land-locked town its own coastline and nationally? “I fell in love with a girl who intro- boy’s father added. were to open up, it would be easier,” the rated her from her former company, and left to the streets, loneliness, pover- sea by pouring salt into a local lake and Sadly for satire fans and voters who duced me to it. It was a product of igno- In tears, the mother said her panic mother said. perceiving them as her enemies,” she ty and to arbitrary behaviour,” he said. creating jobs by immediately setting up appreciated the groups send up of Ser- With 20 per cent of the vote, the Hit it Hard – Beli group came second only to the local branch of the Photo: Courtesy of the group rance because I did not have any foun- rose, worrying that her son would go Asked what kind of message she said. “There are no forms of control and a factory dedicated to producing hing- ruling Serbian Progressive Party. bian politics, the youthful Beli is well dations and then this came along… they to war in Syria. “This was my biggest would send to other families going “Her aggression was reflected in restraint of deviant behaviour. Every- es for Lamborghini sports cars. short of the minimum age of 35 for pres- have good arguments for some things, fear, that he would go off to war and not through a similar situation, she said: threats to do something to them when thing is tolerated and justified - no se- In acknowledgement of the dubbed Beli – Samo Jako, which trans- group as able to promote transparency Maksimović, was particularly popular idential candidates. unrelated to jihad... Now I’m divorced. I come back because no one came back,” “Just talk, talk, talk, never let go, never she saw them - curses, insults and simi- lection, no pointing to positive values, widespread corruption in Serbia, lates to Hit it Hard – White, ended up and mount an effective opposition. with Serbs. Noting the position of president is not have stayed in Islam and I practice eve- she said. push away. lar. It was a challenge to establish trust no emphasizing good examples. Preletačević wears a white suit to un- winning 12 of the 55 local assembly “All we did was mock the real cam- Maksimović’s alter ego Beli has really powerful, Vlajić says the group rything, but I simply left all those com- She decided to fight. She persuaded “We made an entire system around and communication with the girl,” “As a society we are doing nothing to derline his purity and commitment to seats in Mladenovac after the vote in paign of other parties. Our campaign 118,000 Facebook friends, his YouTube will, however, carefully consider field- munities,” he said. her son to come home and she turned him – police, family, our friends who Heremić added. create a desirable system of values and the truth and transparency. To the de- April. lasted only 38 days, people were… channel has been viewed four million ing candidates for the City of Belgrade He is grateful that his family stood be- to the police, who, although the boy had came to visit… We made a system be- However, with Medica’s comprehen- behavioural patterns, which would in- light of disaffected Serbian voters, Beli, With 20 per cent of the vote, the Hit it thankful that we made it happen,” says times and his four Twitter accounts Assembly election that is due to be held side him at all times. He said that some not committed a crime, agreed to talk to cause the state has no system,” she con- sive approach – which included thera- clude all young people aged ten to 25,” which means ‘white’ in Serbian, even Hard – Beli group came second only to Vlajić, who underlines the group would have a total of 12,000 followers. in 2018. parents of his friends quickly gave up on him every day to dissuade him from go- cluded. peutic and educational work, medical Sijaković thinks. promises to lie transparently. the local branch of the ruling Serbian not have been so successful if they had Not bad given his total campaign “But first we want to show that we’re them and that “this was not fair of them. ing to off to the battlefields. services and education about health Sijaković added that this is why The name Preletačević is a play on Progressive Party election list entitled not parodied the political scene. budget amounted to €300, which he able to create change in our own back- “My parents did not cut me off,” he “We have two more children. It was YOUNG GIRL protection – there was progress, after young people are susceptible to the words too and loosely translates as Aleksandar Vučić – Serbia is Winning. “People were happy to joke about had to find from his own personal yard, and then we’ll see what’s next,” he said. “They listened to whatever I had a shock for all of us… He looked like he PUSHED TO which she stopped exhibiting anger influence of extreme religious groups, ‘switchover’, a reference to him having Serbian political reality but they also funds. says. to say. It was great how they accepted had gone crazy from those books of QUIT SCHOOL towards the people who were trying to some of which encourage the young to previously joined every political party BELI’S PALS ‘SHARK’ appreciated seeing new, not recycled, Maksimović, the star of the group, is me, given how angry I was,” shrug- theirs,” she said. help. go off to foreign battlefields. in Serbia before eventually forming his AND ‘STICKER’ faces in the campaign.” unusually quiet during the interview. ging in response to the question about “Luckily, we continued to talk to him. Unlike the family in Brčko, who Heremić says the problem of radical- While he was in the Salafi movement, own. Besides winning the hearts and Naturally this is not due to any shyness. where this anger came from. He told us he was going to ride those found an ally in the police and friends, ized young people needs to be talked the 31-year-old Sarajevo local says he Vlajić, 28, and friends initially set out Beli’s campaign was supported by minds of voters in Mladenovac, the He is suffering from laryngitis and can- pizzeria After some thought, he slowly an- motorcycles. He told us how they took a family in Zenica, facing a similar situ- about in Bosnia – and parents need to saw weapons that some members car- to poke fun at the political establish- three other spoof characters that each group became a national sensation, not speak, though that does not stop swered that the anger, “was how I got him near Zvornik and taught him to ation with their daughter, turned to the be educated in ways to recognize the ried “for protection.” ment by putting up Beli and a group of pass a comment on the political system their parodies playing well to the le- him seizing my notebook to explain in "allo-allo" my kicks. The more angry someone handle weapons,” the mother recol- NGO Medica. changes in their children. “Most of those who carried weap- spoof supporters for election in Mlade- in Serbia. Vlajić himself ‘played’ Stevan gions of Serbian voters across the coun- written form why he is so popular in was, the more he suffered, the more lected. Lejla Heremić, a social pedagogue “It is necessary to work on preven- ons ended up in Syria... I knew some novac – a once thriving industrial town N. Vlajićević, a ruthless propagandist try who have grown disillusioned with Mladenovac. caffe radical and better he was.” The boy’s parents ensured that, in ad- and family counsellor in Medica, told tive activities, give young people a of them who make contact from there, in central Serbia that lies 50 kilometres and powerful media figure who is pre- mainstream politics and weary of poli- “My father has owned the local kaf- In the absence of a systemic re- dition to visits by the police, religious BIRN that she worked with the 15-year- choice and the possibility to be in- like Bajra Ikanović. I attended Nusret from the centre of Belgrade. pared to do anything – and tell any ticians promising but failing to stamp ana [traditional bar and restaurant] for sponse to the radicalization processes scholars, who could speak against radi- old girl who was going through a crisis cluded in different activities and such Imamović’s lectures as well. He was “This campaign started as a joke, an lies necessary - in order to achieve his out corruption. the past 30 years, that’s why I’m wide in Bosnia, it is often left to families or calism, came to their home. of identity under the influence of cer- activities should be made available to boss in [the hardline village of] Maoča. ironic comment on our unfortunate re- goals. The group were also overwhelmed known in Mladenovac since child- non-government organizations to op- They explained that their son had tain people and who wanted to leave them. He is now part of a terrorist group in the ality in Serbia, where for three decades Stefan Gajić presented himself as by requests for media interviews as hood. I’ve always wanted to be an actor, pose it. been systemically radicalized. The school. “Society really too few opportuni- Islamic State,” he said. we have been served lies by corrupt Nebojša Prilepak, the surname trans- their characters became more widely but I failed to pass exams for the Drama As part of its investigation, BIRN radicals had wooed him through mo- “Her radical thoughts were reflected ties to young people from families of a Asked whether he thinks he would politicians,” Vlajić told BIRN. lates roughly as ‘sticker’, who is power- known in Serbia and beyond. Academy in Belgrade, that is the reason contacted a married couple who live torcycles, had given him weapons and primarily in her self-perception that she lower social status,” she said. ever have gone to Syria to fight, had he But what began as something of a hungry, plays dirty and will stick to his “At some points we didn’t know why one day I’ll become a mayor,” he outside a village with a large Salafi com- shown him films about Islamic State. was chosen by God to change things in It is especially important, according stayed part of the community, he an- prank resonated with local voters in boss no questions asked. The spoof which media we were talking to, eve- quips, adding a smiley to his written munity in north-eastern Bosnia. In response, his parents decided to her life and family - that her job was to to her, that government institutions like swers after a pause, “Who knows...” Mladenovac, a town now marred by character Petar Popović Ajkula, played ryone was calling us: Al Jazeera, N1 [the answer. According to them, their son was rad- organize a support system within the learn as much as she could from reli- the police, social services and prosecu- “I hope that if I’d left it would have high unemployment and economic by Petar Popović, is a shady business regional CNN partner] the AFP agency, icalized to such an extent that he was home through talks with the police, gious books because you could learn tion recognize the problem and work been out of curiosity. But the things be- deprivation. Few under the age of 30 tycoon and campaign sponsor. Ajkula local media, newspapers and web por- OPPOSITION AMBITIONS preparing to go to war in Syria before family and friends. much more from them and she did not on punishing those who promote this ing done there, this is forbidden by God. can remember when the town had at is the Serbian word for shark. tals,” recalls Vlajić. Beograd they got help. “I found him a job and asked elderly need school,” she recalled. mindset and who encourage others in I cannot even imagine myself doing least one functioning factory. All four now serve as members of the Beli, the white-clad leader of the Having achieved their initial goal to Svetozara Markovica 19a His mother asked not to use the people to talk to him. We talked con- “She thought she should not con- radical thinking, especially if they are that, even when I was at my angriest,” To their own surprise their new civil Mladenovac local assembly along with Hit it Hard – White group played by “completely discredit the current politi- tel. 011/3246 947 names of her family or of her village, as stantly with him. I told him all the time, tinue school; would not have any use abusing minors. he concluded. movement, ostensibly led by Beli and independent activists selected by the media and communications student cal system in Serbia” by fielding candi- 323 88 88 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 22 - Thursday, September 08, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 22 - Thursday, September 08, 2016 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT

Wine A Belgrader’s Corner Regal: A stylish culinary It always begins with a simple work in progress question: ‘Can you bring me the wine Duck Breast in Quince Demi-Glace guide to Montenegro with Bavarian Spatzle pasta, another list’? Everything well-named dish, is packed with great else that follows is ingredients, but it underperformed a complex matter, badly. Carrots with sage and farm-style (i.e. various meadow species) honey Each Belgrade set has a favourite summer and cannot be could not save the sponge-like, dense hangout in neighbouring Montenegro. Where is measured only by and doughy Spatzle. The crispy duck how much is left skin was the only nice bit, as even the breast meat was below par, quite tough your crowd headed? in the bottle after and lacking any convincing seasoning. dinner. When ordering the main dishes, probably for the sake of this review rather than anything else, we also Pavle GOLICIN Srđan GARČEVIĆ DEDINJE POWER SET DESCEND ordered the most expensive item on ON SVETI STEFAN, MILOČER he Regal restaurant the menu – the rack of lamb in a cran- ontenegro and its coast AND PRŽNO and bar has just berry reduction. The prime lamb chop have become hugely popu- opened up in the comes directly from the famed free- building that had range farms in New Zealand, hence lar summer destinations Sveti Stefan used to be a fortified fishing village housed Gaudi – one for Belgraders, particularly before it was turned into a luxury resort in 1955. of the city centre’s the price but also the unmatched qual- after the wars of the 1990s Since then it has hosted many a glamourous celeb, mostT vibrant cafes – for decades. ity, our waiter explained as he highly brought the annual exodus most notoriously the chess grandmaster Bobby Reason enough then for us to pay recommended this dish as one of the a visit and find out what the Regal to the Croatian coast to an end. Fischer. His 1992 visit caused a bit of a stir for house specialties. M is all about. Montenegro, the smallest of the ex-Yugoslav breaking UN sanctions on the former Yugoslavia. With its welcoming interior and Importing lamb is a bold move any- states, stuck with Serbia the longest, until June Sveti Stefan is adjacent to a luscious former royal offering two tasting menus, it is where in the Balkans but we simply 2006, due to strong cultural, historical and ethnic park and summer residence at Miločer, which in- immediately clear that the restau- couldn’t miss out after it received such ties. Although many Belgraders have recently be- cludes Montenegro’s best beach, Kraljičina plaža rant is trying to offer a fine dining high praise. It turned out to be a dis- experience. gun to visit Croatia again, or holiday in Greece or (the Queen's Beach). Next to it is Pržno, a lovely However, the wine list is rather appointment and was served with a even further afield to escape the summer heat, old fishing village, now swarming with the Mon- narrow with an average selection grilled asparagus prosciutto roll and there is still a strong sense of Montenegro being a tenegrin and Serbian political élite trying to catch of 50ish labels including around a celery mash that left the rather bleak kind of Belgrade-on-sea. some sun. dozen domestic varieties. impression of being unwilling compan- The list is presented by the This is especially true as Belgrade dwellers of all book, with region, alcohol percent- ions to mediocre-tasting meat. social groups desert the smouldering city streets SPLAV-FIENDS age and grape variety of each The final nail in the coffin of this sup- to sprawl out somewhere along Montenegro’s dry PARTY ON IN BUDVA wine. The list does not include posedly fine-dining outing came in the and rocky 293-kilometre coast or explore its im- the vintage – that is the year of form of dessert. production. pressive, mountainous hinterlands. The largest town on the coast, Budva’s peculiar The vanilla creme brulee had no The selection of wines is some- Thus, if you find your favourite bar in Belgrade urbanism has become so famous in the region what surprising. For example, it is mentionable crust, wrong structure and deserted in July and August, here is a little guide to that it spawned the term “budvanisation” to de- understandable to have couple consistency, but, to be fair, it did have a help you track down your crowd in the bijou won- note an investor-driven chaotic approach to de- of Sauvignon Blancs from New proper vanilla flavour. A virtue which, derland that is Montenegro. velopment. Although most of the new buildings Zealand, as they are not of the once again, could not possibly prevail same price range, it is strange to range from mediocre to barbarically ugly, Budva is have a top notch Rosso di Mon- over the flaws. The coffee at the end was SAVAMALA HIPSTERS famed for its lovely Venetian old town, as well as talcino, which is better and more also mediocre at best, which is really BLOG AWAY AT ADA BOJANA its pumping night life which makes it a magnet for expensive than selected Brunello inadequate for an aspiring restaurant Belgrade party-fiends, mostly of the teenage and di Montalcino that is considered to nowadays when good quality coffee is be ‘an elder brother’ of Rosso. Located at the border with Albania on the river student variety. The overall impression of the served in every corner of Belgrade. The ground level serves as a bar and lounge area. Photo: Facebook Bojana, Ada Bojana is an island famed for its long Regal’s list is that it does not repre- Coming to a meaningful conclusion sandy beach, great surfing waves and a nudist BETON HALA BEAUTIES sent enough of the best wines that is especially difficult in the case of this camp that was immortalised in the 1986 cult film FLAUNT IT IN PORTO MONTENEGRO can be found on the market and Having just crossed into the interior, dish that originates from Piedmont. It review. The ambience and the service more depth in the selection would Ljepota poroka (The Beauty of Vice) starring Mira This newly the real value of this space is yet to be was served in the form of a small round excelled. The menu is interesting and be certainly appreciated. Furlan of The Lost fame. The vibe is very relaxed. A newcomer to the formerly industrial town of This is especially the case with opened discovered: a staircase leading to the cake, with horizontal layers of beef and contemporary, the ingredients unmis- Days are spent in the chilled tavernas on stilts that Tivat, Porto Montenegro is a luxury marina situat- wines by the glass. Only four are upper floor wherea classy, old-style citrus slices. It looked original, but the takably fresh and of great quality. Yet line the cool, clear waters of the Bojana, while ed on the site of an old military arsenal. The mari- available, which certainly limits restaurant in apartment has been redecorated to under-seasoned meat yielded no fla- the dishes were all executed poorly, nights are reserved for bonfire-lit beach parties. na has become a symbol of Montenegro’s attempt Savamala hipsters prefer Ada Bojana. Photo: Flickr/Jovan Nedeljkov the possibilities to combine the host the restaurant’s fine dining area vour through the sharp taste of orange every single thing that we ordered was right wine with the food. When not instagramming the seemingly endless to capture the attention of the global élite. To lure So, going for red wines, I had no central Belgrade (as well as its kitchen). The decoration and grapefruit. flawed. It is a rare, if not singular, occur- sandy beach that stretches to the significantly less the gilded Belgrade set, the development includes DORĆOL BOHEMIANS April and May to just exhilarating between June choice, but to take the only one is minimal, reduced to shades of sandy The Baby spinach salad with red rence that not even one thing is at least fashionable city of Ulcinj, or discussing your lat- outlets of their favourite Belgrade haunts, such as HANG OUT IN KOTOR and August. available, the Malbec Estate from has all the beige and grey. The furniture is simple paprika, sugar-glazed walnuts, fried OK in Belgrade and other places alike. est media project with the hip kid you met at Bel- Moritz Eis and Supermarket. So you are sure to Many agencies offer rafting trips combined with Chakana, one of Argentina’s most but comfortable. The space itself is the bacon, maple syrup and Dijon mustard In the broader scheme of things, the popular, large scale world-wide necessary grade’s Grad culture centre, you can go kite surfing find many botoxed faces carefully inspecting your It is difficult to say if the ancient UNESCO-pro- a few nights stays in the secluded and very basic producers. It is a classic Malbec, focus, with its high ceilings and grand looked fresh and was certainly an eye- food is probably the easiest aspect to or just relax in the shallow waters. every move in this lovely resort. tected city of Kotor is more beautiful for its loca- camps at the bottom of the gorge. ready to drink and immediately French balconies that open on the catching starter, but tasted sweet in a fix. At Regal, however, they do have tion in the stunning Bay of Kotor or for its scenic, If rafting does not give you enough of an adren- showed plumy and jammy notes ingredients for street just above the treetops. rather dull manner. quite a bit of fixing to do. Let us hope sleepy cobbled streets. Its beauty draws in a more alin rush, you can also zipline over the nearby on the nose and nice tannins and If you enjoy the classic turn-of-the Shaken but undeterred, we went on that it will come easy and naturally, and medium-bodied structure on the mature, cultured crowd, who also attend its many Đurđevića Tara bridge, whose elegant arches, dra- success – they (last) century European charm, your to the mains. The gnocchi with bole- that it was just a bad day at the office for palate. festivals, including Bokeljska noć (the Bay of Kotor matically soaring over the gorge, were one of the The staff did its best to accom- just need to fix the heart will dance. We could not have tus mushrooms sauce was enjoyable, all of us. festival) in August, as well as its famed carnival in greatest feats of engineering during the inter-war modate us from the first moment, wished for a better setting to indulge although it contained red meat, which February. period in Europe. but there is definitely room for food. ourselves in the aftermath of a sum- was not indicated on the menu. This Finally, to relax, you can hike and enjoy many improvement. Yet again, one glass mer downpour one chilly afternoon. could have given a vegetarian guest an of wine I ordered was not poured EVERYDAY BELGRADERS lovely glacial lakes in the Durmitor national park, in front of me, so I could not see We were practically the only guests unnecessary surprise… on top of which Regal RELAX IN HERCEG NOVI a favourite of Belgrade’s small but committed out- the vintage or the condition of the Duda & Vlada around, which we did not mind at all. adding the thin slices of tender veal did Address: Gospodar Jevremova 40 doorsy crew. bottle. On the contrary, this added to the feel- not make this dish any better or worse Phone: +381 11 26 37 103 Herceg Novi offers a nice balance of all the best There is evident commitment egal, a recent addition ing of secluded privacy in the middle of – the veal flavour was completely cov- Price Guide: rsd1900-4200 per behind this place but, apart from things Montenegro has to offer: a quaint old town NO ONE AT the inspiring view of the trees to the city centre res- a busy urban area. ered with deep, earthy aromas of the person [around €15-€34] for three with a whiff of belle-epoque charm, the amazing LAKE SKADAR along Gospodar Jevremova Street taurant scene, captures The menu added to the promise; it is boletus mushrooms. courses without drinks Jadran water-polo club, great views of the Bay of from our window table, the gour- the spirit of the upper a dense one-pager, packed with inter- Kotor, nice lidos and varied night-life. It also offers Probably the most underappreciated region of met experience stayed very much Dorćol neighbourhood esting and hip items. at average level. many opportunities to explore the coast by boat, Montenegro, Lake Skadar possesses a kind of oth- like no other place. It Although close to the season end, the ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ including the nearby fishing village of Rose, Mon- erworldly beauty, lent by the dry skeletal moun- Ris situated in a beautiful, neoclassical green asparagus soup is still there. This ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” tenegro’s best kept secret. Thus, it is no surprise tains that emerge from its shores and are reflected 1930s building that is typical for this veggie spread like fire through the men- RESTAURANT KOVAČ that it appeals to the average, run-of-the mill Bel- in its waterlily-strewn waters. A short drive from Basic Info Rating part of town. us of Belgrade’s upmarket restaurants, modern ethno restaurant grader, who is equally fond of turbo-folk, good DJs the Montenegrin capital of Podgorica and shared The ground level, previously occu- so there is plenty of ground for com- and people watching. with Albania, the lake and the town of Virpazar pied by a well-known café and bar, now parison. This is where things started to A Cosmopolitan place with local Overall AVERAGE touch and original, creative cuisine in offer visitors the chance to experience a deep, if a serves as a bar and lounge area, with a go downhill a little, as the supposedly ADRENALIN JUNKIES RUSH bit musty, calm, far from the crowds on the coast Wine selection AVERAGE couple of tables set on the side-walk as creamy soup turned out to be rather the heart of Belgrade, Vracar TO DURMITOR AND THE TARA orthe excitement of Durmitor and Tara. It is a per- Wine service AVERAGE an extension. Inside, colourful vintage- thin in flavour, with more than a hint of RIVER GORGE fect refuge from Belgrade’s hustle and bustle, and Wine pricing €9 - €219 style tiles cover the floor and bar in con- a supermarket-grade stock. there will be no nervous, flashy Belgraders in sight. trast to the white brick walls. Wooden Unfortunately, our other two cold Kursulina 6, tel +381 65 280 65 65 The 1,300-metre, UNESCO-protected Tara river However, in case you do start missing them, the furniture and details complete the look, starters did not prove to be much better. gorge is the deepest in Europe. It is perfect for raft- Ada Bojana hipster paradise lies just a short dis- Wine and AVERAGE both trendy and pleasant, and provide Citrus Carne Cruda is a contempo- Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com https://m.facebook.com/Miamiam ing, which ranges from somewhat risky between tance downriver. food pairing a great welcome. rary take on the chopped fresh beef 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 22 - Thursday, September 08, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 22 - Thursday, September 08, 2016 13 WHAT’S ON ARTS

Duo CLUBBING Retrouvailles at Sava Centre

AND LIVE MUSIC Duo Retrouvailles are Bojana Zdravković and Donka Angatschewa FRIDAY JULY 22nd WEDNESDAY JULY 27th SATURDAY AUGUST 13th Arts in brief Maraszto, two pianists who • 2000+ and special guest, Barutana, • Techno Yes Techno, 20/44 boat on • Guti Live, Barutana, Kalemegdan, prefer playing on the same Opera, Ballet Kalemegdan, 11pm Sava river, 10pm 11pm piano at the same time and Classical • Vatra, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 10pm • Shake D Wednesday: RnB, Shake and • Danijel Čehranov, Dooshan and • DJ Petko, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće Shake, boat on Sava river, 11pm Miloš Starčević, Lasta boat on Sava together. The piano duo Krsmanović 4, 10pm river, 11pm met and began playing this nd th TRA T T O R I A FRIDAY JULY 22 • Mash Up or Shut Up, Povetarac boat on THURSDAY JULY 28 • It’s All About Music, Drugstore Play way while both studying Sava river, 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm PIZZER I A • RnB, Club 94, boat on Sava river, 11pm • Shake the Nineties, Shake and Shake • Somebody Call the Doctor, Club 94, music in Vienna and have BELEF: Stanislav Binički Ensemble • Pump up the Friday, Lasta boat on Sava boat on Sava river, 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm performed together ever and Uroš Dojčinović, guitar, Kapetan river, 11pm • House Night, Freestyler, boat on Sava • Special House, Freestyler, boat on since. They are coming Miša’s Endowment, Studentski Trg 1, • House: The Beatshakers, Shake and river, 11pm Sava river, 11pm 8pm Shake, boat on Sava river, 11pm • Mortal Combat, Apa Beer Garden, Ada • Marko Gojković and Dave Floyd, to the Sava Centre on • Trust Me You Can Dance, Drugstore Ciganlija, 9:30pm Nebojsina 8 th Shake and Shake, boat on Sava river, Saturday, September 24 th Play, boat on Sava river, 11pm 11pm MONDAY JULY 25 th 011/3863-999 and tickets are on sale for • R&B and House Night, Freestyler, boat FRIDAY JULY 29 • RNB Night, Industrija Bar, on Sava river, 11pm Karađorđeva 23, 11pm [email protected] eight euros apiece. BELEF: Arias and Duets – Dušica • Old Hits Retro Party, Industrija Bar, • Dusty Vinyl Party no. 4, Barutana, • Eighties, KST, Bulevar Kralja www.restoranamici.rs Bijelić, Ugo Tabec, Dejan Karađorđeva 23, 11pm Kalemegdan, 11pm Aleksandra 73, 10pm Maksimović, Dario Humenjuk, • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar Kralja • RnB, Club 94, boat on Sava river, 11pm • Garavi Sokak, Gardoš, Zemun, 9pm ARLEMM Art Aleksandra 73, 10pm • Blow Up Friday, Shake and Shake, boat Festival perfect Višnja Radosav, Kapetan Miša’s Endowment, Studentski Trg 1, 9pm • Đura i Mornari, Manak’s House, Gavrila on Sava river, 11pm SUNDAY AUGUST 14th for classical fans Principa 5, 8:30pm • RnB, Club 94, boat on Sava river, 11pm • Who See, Apa Beer Garden, Ada • Pump up the Friday, Lasta boat on • Shake It Easy: Deep/Tech House, THURSDAY JULY 28th Ciganlija, 10pm Sava river, 11pm , Shake and Shake, boat on Sava If you’re looking for a RnB th nd • House: The Beatshakers, Shake and river, 7pm THURSDAY AUGUST 25 FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 2 rd festival of classical music BELEF: Moresca Nova Ensemble, SATURDAY JULY 23 Shake, boat on Sava river, 11pm • RnB Night, River, boat on Sava river, , Shake and Shake Kapetan Miša’s Endowment, Studentski • Sweet and Sexy, Tilt, Karađorđeva 2, 11pm • Shake the Nineties • Upgrade Weekend: Miss Kittin, to check out this summer, boat on Sava river, 11pm Trg 1, 9pm • Rainbow Party – Sonja Sajzor’s Babes 11pm • Holocausto Canibal, Sin of God, Dixon, Recondite, Tale of Us, Gordan head over to the town of • House Night, Freestyler, boat on Sava of Drag, Grad Cultural Centre, Braće • R&B and House Night, Beton, Vrtoglavica, Šajkaška 15, 9pm Paunović, Marko Nastić, Tijana T, Arilje in western Serbia for Krsmanović 4, 10pm Karađorđeva 2, 11pm river, 11pm Vladimir Ivković, Vladimir Janjić, SATURDAY JULY 30th Kalemegdan, outside the Military • Miloš Pavlović and Marko • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar Kralja TUESDAY AUGUST 16th the ARLEMM festival. The Milosavljević, Drugstore, Bulevar Aleksandra 73, 10pm FRIDAY AUGUST 26th Museum, 10pm town makes for a perfect • RnB, Club 94, boat on Sava river, 11pm BELEF closing event: Beryozka Despota Stefana 115, 11pm • Summer Jam, Club 94, boat on Sava th • Nakadia, Barutana, Kalemegdan, 11pm , Lasta boat on Sava summer getaway with its Ensemble, Tašmajdan Stadium, • Yousef presents Circus, Barutana, SATURDAY JULY 30 river, 11pm • Pump up the Friday • Mash Up or Shut Up, Povetarac boat on river, 11pm Aberdareva bb (in case of rain: Sava Kalemegdan, 11pm , Freestyler, boat on Sava clean rivers and beaches, • Nineties Sava river, 11pm , Shake and • Spacewalker, Elektropionir, Cetinjska • Paco Osuna, Barutana, Kalemegdan river, 11pm • House: The Beatshakers so this festival is just an- Centre Big Hall, Milentija Popovića 9), 15, 10pm fortress, 11pm • RnB, Club 94, boat on Sava river, 11pm Shake, boat on Sava river, 11pm 9pm , Club 94, • Pump up the Friday, Lasta boat on Sava • Trust Me You Can Dance, Drugstore Play, other reason to make that • Danijel Čehranov, Dooshan and Miloš • Somebody Call the Doctor WEDNESDAY AUGUST 17th , Lasta boat on Sava river, 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm river, 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm Lovefest in Vrnjačka Banja is celebrating its tenth year in August. Photo: Lovefest Starčević visit. The festival opened nd , Drugstore Play Drugstore Play • House: The Beatshakers, Shake and • R&B and House Night, Freestyler, boat FRIDAY SEPTEMBER 2 • It’s All About Music • It’s All About Music, , 20/44 boat on last weekend and closes boat on Sava river, 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm • Techno Yes Techno Shake, boat on Sava river, 11pm on Sava river, 11pm Sava river, 10pm st , Club 94, , Club 94, • Trust Me You Can Dance, Drugstore • Old Hits Retro Party, Industrija Bar, on Sunday, July 31 . • Somebody Call the Doctor • Somebody Call the Doctor , Shake Nemanja Radulović and Belgrade boat on Sava river, 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm • Shake D Wednesday: RnB Play, boat on Sava river, 11pm Karađorđeva 23, 11pm and Shake, boat on Sava river, 11pm Philharmonic Orchestra – • Special House, Freestyler, boat on Sava • Special House, Freestyler, boat on Sava • R&B and House Night, Freestyler, boat • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar Kralja • Belgrade Beer Fest Day One: Viva Spanish Film Must-see music festivals Podmoskovnye Vechera, Ilija M. river, 11pm river, 11pm on Sava river, 11pm Aleksandra 73, 10pm Kolarac Endowment, Studentski Trg 5, • Marko Gojković and Dave Floyd, • Marko Gojković and Dave Floyd, Vox, Rudimental Live, Elemental, • Old Hits Retro Party, Industrija Bar, screening at Shake and Shake, boat on Sava river, Shake and Shake, boat on Sava river, Let 3, James Brown Tribute Band, Karađorđeva 23, 11pm SATURDAY SEPTEMBER 3rd KC Grad’s 8pm 11pm 11pm Ušće, 8pm • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar Kralja • RNB Night, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva • RNB Night, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva Aleksandra 73, 10pm • Upgrade Weekend: Miss Kittin, Backyard th in August 23, 11pm 23, 11pm FRIDAY AUGUST 19 Dixon, Recondite, Tale of Us, Gordan • Eighties, KST, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra • Ledge, Iskaz, Apa Beer Garden, Ada SATURDAY AUGUST 27th Paunović, Marko Nastić, Tijana T, Want to watch an 73, 10pm Ciganlija, 6pm • Steve Bug, Barutana, Kalemegdan, Vladimir Ivković, Vladimir Janjić, folk music and brass band competitions. August 11th to Sunday, August 14th. Ac- 11pm , Dooshan and Miloš interesting movie in a • Cotton Pickers, Just Like Johnnz • Danijel Čehranov Kalemegdan, outside the Military With a host of top And if none of that interests you, there’s cording to festival officials, visitors can Cash, Vampiri, Apa Beer Garden, Ada SATURDAY AUGUST 6th • RnB, Club 94, boat on Sava river, 11pm Starčević, Lasta boat on Sava river, 11pm Museum, 10pm friendly open-air setting? Ciganlija, 6pm • Pump up the Friday, Lasta boat on • It’s All About Music, Drugstore Play • Danijel Čehranov, Dooshan and Miloš always the Gitarijada Festival in the east- expect to see a total of 110 performanc- Sava river, 11pm Head over to KC Grad on music festivals • Besne Gliste, Milan Mladenović Plateau, • Danijel Čehranov, Dooshan and boat on Sava river, 11pm Starčević, Lasta boat on Sava river, 11pm th ern Serbian town of Zaječar, that’s per- es on 11 different stages over the course • House: The Beatshakers, Shake and • Somebody Call the Doctor, Club 94, , Drugstore Play boat Sunday, August 14 to 8pm Miloš Starčević, Lasta boat on Sava • It’s All About Music fect for hard rockers of all ages. of the four-day event. • Summer Hardcore Fiesta: Lionheart, river, 11pm Shake, boat on Sava river, 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm on Sava river, 11pm see Gente en Sintios in happening across Exhibitions No Way Back, Suffering’s The Price, • It’s All About Music, Drugstore Play • Trust Me You Can Dance, Drugstore • Special House, Freestyler, boat on Sava • Somebody Call the Doctor, Club 94, the Backyard courtyard. Lovefest in Vrnjačka Banja is cele- Headlining the festival this year will Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, 9pm boat on Sava river, 11pm Play, boat on Sava river, 11pm river, 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm Serbia next month, brating its tenth year and will take place be British soul diva Joss Stone, who and Events • R&B and House Night, Freestyler, • Marko Gojković and Dave Floyd, • Special House, Freestyler, boat on Sava The film was shot entirely • Sixth June, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, • Somebody Call the Doctor, Club 94, between Thursday, August 4th and Sat- will be closing the festival on August 9pm boat on Sava river, 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm Shake and Shake, boat on Sava river, river, 11pm with a handheld cam- th th FRIDAY JULY 22nd • Ničim Izazvan, Gardoš, Zemun, 9pm • Special House, Freestyler, boat on Sava • Old Hits Retro Party, Industrija Bar, 11pm • Marko Gojković and Dave Floyd, Shake era, with absolutely no what better excuse urday, August 6 . Outside the three-day 14 . Once again, the line-up is astonish- river, 11pm Karađorđeva 23, 11pm • RNB Night, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva and Shake, boat on Sava river, 11pm Lovefest, Vrnjačka Banja is not exactly ing, given it is filled with a bunch of big SUNDAY th , • Can’t Stop the Rock, KST, Bulevar 23, 11pm • RNB Night, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva budget, by director Juan JULY 24 • Marko Gojković and Dave Floyd to venture out of synonymous with loud music and festi- names from the jazz, blues and soul Summer Art School – Beyond All Shake and Shake, boat on Sava river, Kralja Aleksandra 73, 10pm • Eighties, KST, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra 23, 11pm Cavestany. Presented by Frontiers, a presentation, Rectorate • Belgrade Beer Fest Day Three: 73, 10pm val crowds as it is a spa town that many music world and takes place in south- • Piknik, Topčiderska Zvezda,4pm 11pm • Eighties, KST, Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra the Instituto Cervantes in of the University of Arts, Kosančićev • Shake It Easy: Deep/Tech House, RnB, • RNB Night, Industrija Bar, Karađorđeva Mostar Sevdah Reunion, Dubioza • Kayo Dot, Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 73, 10pm the capital this visit for therapeutic reasons or to enjoy ern Serbia. Fusion guitar legend Al Di venac 29, 7pm Shake and Shake, boat on Sava river, 7pm 23, 11pm Kolektiv, Sunshine, Who See and 9pm Belgrade, entrance is free th the peaceful nature of this community Meola will grace the stage this year, • RnB Night, River, boat on Sava river, • Eighties, KST, Bulevar Kralja Friends, Orthodox Celts, Irie FM, • Zemlja Gruva, Gardoš, Zemun, 9pm SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 4 of charge. summer? 11pm Aleksandra 73, 10pm Ušće, 8pm and its surroundings. as well as saxophonist Bill Evans, the SATURDAY JULY 23rd • Cassidy’s Brewery, Branimir i MONDAY AUGUST 29th • Piknik, Topčiderska Zvezda,4pm th There are three stages at the festival. Cyrus Chestnut Trio and funk-jazz hy- MONDAY JULY 25th Neprijatelji, Salsa Y Punto, Apa Beer SATURDAY AUGUST 20 • Shake It Easy: Deep/Tech House, RnB, First Serbian International Student Week in • Club Matine, Grad Cultural Centre, Shake and Shake, boat on Sava river, 7pm David GALIĆ The Fire Stage hosts both foreign and brids Shakatak. Garden, Ada Ciganlija, 6pm showing of El Belgrade, closing ceremony and Flag • Club Matine, Grad Cultural Centre, • Danijel Čehranov, Dooshan and Braće Krsmanović 4, from 6pm • RnB Night, River, boat on Sava river, 11pm domestic DJs. This year’s line-up in- The festival is very international in th Libertador Parade, Knez Mihajlova Street, 6:45pm Braće Krsmanović 4, from 6pm SUNDAY AUGUST 7 Miloš Starčević, Lasta boat on Sava • Nineties, Club 94, boat on Sava river, s Novi Sad’s EXIT fes- cludes German producer and DJ Sven nature and will host performers from • Nineties, Club 94, boat on Sava river, river, 11pm 11pm MONDAY SEPTEMBER 5th 11pm • Shake It Easy: Deep/Tech House, • It’s All About Music, Drugstore Play This movie was Ven- tival has come and Väth and Ben Klock, one of the leaders more than 20 countries. SUNDAY JULY 24th RnB, Shake and Shake, boat on Sava boat on Sava river, 11pm TUESDAY AUGUST 30th • Nineties, Club 94, boat on Sava river, 11pm gone for another of Berlin’s modern techno movement. If you’d like a more visceral experi- th ezuelan candidate for an TUESDAY JULY 26 river, 7pm • Somebody Call the Doctor, Club 94, year, it’s important to The Live Stage will host popular re- ence between Thursday, August 11th Exhibition: Katarina Radović, • RnB Night, River, boat on Sava river, boat on Sava river, 11pm • Summer Jam, Club 94, boat on Sava TUESDAY SEPTEMBER 6th Oscar award last year remember that while gional rock and hip-hop acts, including and Saturday, August 13th, head over to photography, The Museum of African • Summer Jam, Club 94, boat on Sava 11pm • Special House, Freestyler, boat on river, 11pm and it is being screened river, 11pm Sava river, 11pm • Nineties, Freestyler, boat on Sava river, • Summer Jam, Club 94, boat on Sava river, it may still be Serbia’s Bosnian rapper Edo Majka, the “Monte- the famed Guča Festival, which foreign- Art, Andre Nikolića 14, 11pm th 11pm in Belgrade for the first • Nineties, Freestyler, boat on Sava river, MONDAY AUGUST 8 • Marko Gojković and Dave Floyd, 11pm defining summer music festival, it’s far negrin Frank Zappa” Rambo Amadeus, ers have been raving about for years as Movie: El Libertador, Dom Omladine, 11pm Shake and Shake, boat on Sava river, • Nineties, Freestyler, boat on Sava river, th A time on Sunday, July 24 Makedonska 22, 8pm st from the only one worth visiting. legendary Serbian rockers Partibkersi being a one-of-a-kind experience that • Club Matine, Grad Cultural Centre, 11pm WEDNESDAY AUGUST 31 11pm at Dom Omladine. With Braće Krsmanović 4, from 6pm • RNB Night, Industrija Bar, August in particular is a fantastic time and many more. can only be found in Serbia. th • Techno Yes Techno, 20/44 boat on Sava th this free screening, the MONDAY JULY 25 • Nineties, Club 94, boat on Sava river, Karađorđeva 23, 11pm WEDNESDAY SEPTEMBER 7 for music festivals, giving you sufficient There’s also the H2O stage, which As is the case every year, the focus 11pm • Eighties, KST, Bulevar Kralja river, 10pm Venezuelan Embassy in time to recover from the Exit excesses takes place beside an open pool, where will be Balkan folk music played by Aleksandra 73, 10pm • Shake D Wednesday: RnB, Shake and • Shake D Wednesday: RnB, Shake and Belgrade is celebrating Film: The Snows of Kilimanjaro WEDNESDAY AUGUST 10th • Belgrade Beer Fest Day Four: Bilja Shake, boat on Sava river, 11pm Shake, boat on Sava river, 11pm of early July, while offering enough va- festival-goers can catch some rays dur- the best brass bands from around the what would be former (USA, 1952), Yugoslav Film Archive, Krstic and Bistrik, S.A.R.S., Vatreni riety to pick and choose from. ing the day, recover from the night before world. However, festival organisers Uzun Mirkova 1, 8:30pm • Techno Yes Techno, 20/44 boat on Poljubac, Vlatko Stefanovski, Dino THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 1st THURSDAY SEPTEMBER 8th statesman and soldier Sava river, 10pm Dvornik Tribute Band, Ušće, 8pm rd These summer festivals also give and gear up for another night of music. have taken things up a notch this year FREE COPY Simon Bolivar’s 233 th • Shake D Wednesday: RnB, Shake and • Alma and Rale Mićić, Grad Cultural • Shake the Nineties, Shake and Shake • Shake the Nineties, Shake and Shake you the chance to travel around Serbia “The festival was created because by adding some of the biggest names in TUESDAY JULY 26 boat on Sava river, 11pm boat on Sava river, 11pm birthday. Shake, boat on Sava river, 11pm Centre, Braće Krsmanović 4, 9pm a little and see other cities and towns of the need to show that central Ser- regional folk music to the line-up. Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. • House Night, Freestyler, boat on Sava • House Night, Freestyler, boat on Sava The Lady From Shanghai, (USA, th st river, 11pm river, 11pm beyond the country’s two biggest: Bel- bia, not just Belgrade, has young and To that end, Svetlana “Ceca” Ražnatović Kolarčeva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade THURSDAY AUGUST 11 SUNDAY AUGUST 21 Summer 1947), Yugoslav Film Archive, Uzun grade and Novi Sad, the capital of the talented people who create music and - probably the most popular Serbian folk Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 , Shake and Shake theatre returns Mirkova 1, 8:30pm • Shake the Nineties • Shake It Easy: Deep/Tech House, northern Vojvodina province. other types of art,” Zlatana Pavlović, the singer of all time – and Severina, who is Editor in Chief: Gordana Igrić boat on Sava river, 11pm RnB, Shake and Shake, boat on Sava to Zemun th BIRN editorial team: • House Night, Freestyler, boat on Sava river, 7pm So what’s on in August? There are festival director, told the Tanjug news pretty much her Croatian equivalent, will WEDNESDAY JULY 27 river, 11pm Ana Petruševa, Marcus Tanner, • RnB Night, River, boat on Sava river, four festivals in particular that are agency in July. be performing at Guča this year. 11pm The Zemun Tourism Lecture: Ayurveda – yoga and [email protected] FRIDAY AUGUST 12th worth noting. Best of all, none of them She added that the number of foreign But if you’d rather just rock out, head • Belgrade Beer Fest Day Five: Centre has announced meditation, Studentski Grad Cultural Sales & Marketing: Marija Petrović have anything in common. visitors to the festival is growing every over to Zaječar, where the Gitarijada Massimo Savić, Sajsi MC, yet another instalment of Centre, Bulevar Zorana Đinđića 179, Phone: +381 11 4030 302 • Def. Raw Music Concept x Bizarre Psihomodo Pop, Ritam Nereda, You can continue the EXIT theme of year and that a total of 70,000 people festival is celebrating its 50th anniver- Bazzare Concept Store, Barutana, the summer theatre pro- 8pm Ušće, 9pm electronic music and popular Serbian attended last year’s Lovefest. sary with legendary British hard rock- [email protected] Kalemegdan, 10pm gramme in Gardoš, the nd rock bands by heading over to Lovefest Pavlović said that while Vrnjačka ers Uriah Heep headlining and a slew th Subscription & Distribution: • RnB, Club 94, boat on Sava river, 11pm MONDAY AUGUST 22 Modern Serbian Cuisine, Mediterranean and Italian cuisine hilltop neighbourhood of FRIDAY JULY 29 Goran Knezevic • Pump up the Friday, Lasta boat on SERBIAN CUISINE THROUGH CENTURIES in the central Serbian town of Vrnjačka Banja residents were a bit apprehen- of the region’s most popular rock bands Sava river, 11pm , Grad Cultural Centre, Belgrade suburb Zemun. +381 11 4030 303 • Club Matine Banja. Or you could opt to head south sive about the festival when it began, rounding out the line-up. Movie: Rear Window (USA, 1954), • House: The Beatshakers, Shake and Braće Krsmanović 4, from 6pm There will be theatrical [email protected] to Nišville, the world-class blues and everyone is now coming round to it. So no matter what type of music you Yugoslav Film Archive, Uzun Mirkova Shake, boat on Sava river, 11pm • Nineties, Club 94, boat on Sava river, productions and musi- • Trust Me You Can Dance, Drugstore 11pm jazz festival held in the city of, you And little wonder, considering the fes- like, there’s a festival made for you in 1, 8:30pm cal performances almost Printing: POLITIKA štamparija d.o.o. Play, boat on Sava river, 11pm guessed it, Niš. tival brought profits of three million eu- Serbia this August, all of which pro- • R&B and House Night, Freestyler, boat TUESDAY AUGUST 23rd every night until Monday, th ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade Insight If neither of those take your fancy, ros to the small town over the course of vides you with the perfect opportunity SATURDAY JULY 30 on Sava river, 11pm August 29th. Tickets for all COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 • Old Hits Retro Party, Industrija Bar, • Summer Jam, Club 94, boat on Sava you could choose to go west and sample three days last year alone. to take a break from the hot Belgrade Reservations: +381 11 2607436, www.vagon-victoria.rs events cost less than one Movie: Rebel Without a Cause (USA, Circulation: 4,000 Karađorđeva 23, 11pm river, 11pm Location: Bulevar Zorana Djindjica 44a, New Belgrade the famed Guča Trumpet Festival for the The Nišville Jazz Festival is in its 22nd concrete and soak up some new expe- , KST, Bulevar Kralja 1955), Yugoslav Film Archive, Uzun • Can’t Stop the Rock • Nineties, Freestyler, boat on Sava Working Hours: Mon-Sun 8 a.m. - 1 a.m. euro [just 100 dinars]. Aleksandra 73, 10pm river, 11pm rather primitive fun offered by Balkan year and will be held from Thursday, riences away from the capital. Mirkova 1, 8:30pm 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 22 - Thursday, September 08, 2016 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 22 - Thursday, September 08, 2016 15 GOING OUT OUR ICE CREAM PICKS Bar Pristan: Far from Sweet treats to beat the heat Thanks to two The Black Sheep team has invented more than fifty flavours, with twenty- ice cream shops four available in the shop at a time. One the madding crowds unique flavour includes the Serbian passionate about dairy delicacy, kajmak. The menu chang- This newly- place to hang out and a fun place to par- es every two or three weeks. ty into the early morning hours. innovation “Sometimes it happens that our cus- opened bar on The bar and club only opened in June, tomers come and are disappointed, so it’s still something of an untapped re- and quality, because on that day we release an ice- the Danube offers source on the Belgrade club scene. As cream with pumpkin instead of raspber- most clubs and bars have gravitated this Belgrade’s ry, but this was our philosophy from the a more relaxed summer to the city centre’s Cetinjska very beginning, and we are not planning street, Pristan’s location is also a breath scorching to change it,” says Jevtović. and upmarket of fresh air for Belgrade clubbers. Black Sheep prides itself on using the As anyone in Belgrade knows, sum- hot days can best ingredients, often local and organic. version of the mer nights are meant to be spent along- The ingredients not readily available in side the rivers. However, the splav be relieved the Serbian market are imported from Belgrade party scene has grown so much over the renowned producers such as Belgian years you’ll be hard pressed to find any with a few chocolate and Macedonian sesame. boat experience. parts of the riverfront that aren’t flood- Among the many flavours one can try ed with clubbers. The loud music blar- minutes of cool at Black Sheep are a marvellous green tea ing from all the competing clubs mixes with caramelized strawberries ice cream, together to create a cacophonous cha- refreshments. but Jevtović says that their specialty is to- David GALIĆ os that is far from relaxing. tally unique: an ice cream made of coffee 25 Maj is different. You get to enjoy grounds and chocolate. ew to Belgrade’s nightlife the breeze and views that being on the scene, Bar Pristan offers river offer, without all of the congestion. Natalia ŽABA MORITZ EIS patrons all the benefits of And that’s exactly what makes the new- a riverside, city centre lo- ly-opened Pristan so appealing. ce cream is everywhere in Bel- A similar philosophy is espoused by cation without the usual It has everything you would expect grade. You can buy it in kiosks, Moritz Eis, a local brand invented by Aus- Nhustle and bustle. from the Belgrade river club scene, with- coffee shops and one can find a trian businessmen, Moritz Fried, who, af- The reason for this is that Pristan is out the clutter. It’s still relatively new, so it vendor with a cooler full of frozen ter visiting Belgrade on a bicycle tour in a splav – a moored floating bar – on the is not yet unbearably crowded. It’s one of The atmosphere at the bar is naturally a lot quieter and more peaceful. Photo: Facebook goodies on almost every street 2012 liked the vibe of the city and decided Black Sheep has become one of Belgrade’s best, and most popular, ice cream shops in less than a year. Photo: BIRN/Natalia Žaba Danube’s Dorćol Quay, known as 25 the few clubs in this area that stays open corner. to open a new kind of business in the city. Maj. Since this riverside area is more late into the night on weekends, so you greatest appeal of Pristan. It manages Drink prices are high, but not ob- drink at Pristan. Overall, staff members IBut if you want to move past the mass- “Together with Miloš Marović, the residential than most others, the at- don’t have to deal with the din of loud to walk the line between all of the good scene. Beer drinkers won’t be happy are very polite and quick to serve. produced, bland ice cream on a stick brains of the operation and a professional mosphere is naturally a lot quieter and music from a neighbouring splav seep- and bad things associated with party- since they only serve small bottles All in all, it’s hard to find anything to and you really want a special treat, give chef, and the ‘guilty one’ for creating all more peaceful. ing into your experience at Pristan. ing on the river in Belgrade. and don’t have much of a selection. complain about at Pristan. You get the one, or both, of these artisanal ice cream those wonderful flavours [more than While there are definitely plenty of It’s also an open boat with no rooftop In terms of music, you’ll be hearing But the wine list is nice and there are chance to enjoy all of the pleasures that places a try. 100], Moritz Eis came up with the idea boat bars and clubs here, most of them across the seating area, which really electronic music exclusively. However, some great cocktails to try – particu- come with spending summer nights in to start a craft that Belgrade didn’t have,” are relaxed cafés and restaurants - gives you an amazing view, especially expect to hear a bit more “aggressive” larly the Gale M, named after the pool Belgrade on the river without most of “BLACK SHEEP” says Dragana Baralić, director of Moritz very different to the all-night party for sunrise and sunset. and less commercial sounds here than and recreational centre located near- the negatives. Eis in Belgrade. splavs located on the other side of the It’s a bit upscale and designed to ap- you might on the other side of the river. by. “We did three years of research, eating Moritz Eis' first Belgrade shop opened river. peal to an older crowd looking for a bit Don’t expect to be able to really dance, If you’re not in the mood for an alco- Bar Pristan tons of ice cream, to find out what good in March 2012, and while today the focus But the great thing about Pristan is more luxury, but it’s far from snobby. since most of the open area on the splav holic drink, try the elderberry-infused Address: Dunavski kej – 25. Maj ice cream means, before we opened is still on craftsmanship, the business is that it manages to be both a very chilled And that’s what really seems to be the is filled with high seating and tables. lemonade, which is another signature Contact: +381 69 78 68 52 Black Sheep [Crna Ovca in Serbian],” says spreading regionally and worldwide. one of the owners of a well-known Ice Today Moritz Eis has five parlours in Bel- Cream Parlol, Zoran Jevtović. grade and two in Novi Sad. Besides Serbia, It’s research that paid off. Located in Moritz Eis has shops in Montenegro, Croa- Dom Omladine sets Californian hardcore masters a tiny shop in the historic central Dorćol tia, Hungary, Chile, Colombia and Peru. neighbourhood at Kralja Petra 58 street, Mortiz offers original, traditional fla- date for 2016 jazz fest Lionheart in Belgrade Black Sheep has become one of Bel- vours like chocolate and vanilla, but also grade’s best, and most popular, ice cream offers more surprising combinations of he 32nd annual Belgrade Jazz Festival at Dom Om- ven though the concert shops in less than a year. Black Sheep herbs and fruits. Some are quite unusual ladine will take place between Wednesday, Oc- season is winding down, combined several ice cream traditions to and unexpected like apricot and laven- tober 26th and Sunday, October 30th. This year’s there are still some good come up with their unique flavours. der, or pineapple and arugula. event is dubbed “Planet Jazz”. While the line-up shows to catch this sum- “Italians are traditionalists, but per- No matter what you are looking for out has not yet been announced, organisers promise mer. One will take place fectionist. They’d rather eat a hazelnut of your ice cream experience in Belgrade, to continue exploring and presenting some of the on Saturday, July 23rd at ice cream, but it must be best possible, both Black Sheep and Moritz Eis pay spe- Tmost innovative jazz performers of the last year with concerts at DomE Omladine. Headlining the show whereas Americans like to experiment cial attention to their products and put a both the Dom Omladine and Sava Centre. will be aggressive Californian hardcore and they’re great innovators. We, at Black lot of effort in providing the best ice cream The format will stay the same and will include not only young- outfit Lionheart, who will be playing fes- Sheep, decided to be something in be- possible, which makes consumption of er, contemporary jazz musicians, but several big-name legends tival shows all over Europe this summer. tween,” says co-owner Jevtović. their confections even more enjoyable. Moritz Eis' first Belgrade shop opened in March 2012. Photo: BIRN/Natalia Žaba of the genre as well. Opening the show will be No Way Even though no names have yet been announced, tickets are al- Back from Kruševac and “beatdown” ready on sale and are likely to sell out quickly, considering that a re- hardcore group Suffering’s The Price cord 10,000 people attended the festival last year. You can get tick- from Niš. Tickets cost eight euros at the ets for the entire festival, giving you access to every concert, for €40. door.

AIRLINE TICKETS

Slim Cessna’s Auto Club Tav Falco’s Panther Brooklyn avant-rockers announce September gig Burns at Dom Omladine Kayo Dot at Elektropionir FOR THE WHOLE WORLD US goth-rocker King If you’re a fan of bands from Denver Born and raised in rural Arkansas in the One of the most important bands Cattle Decapitation Dude at Dom Omladine that specialize in dark Americana such 1970s, Tav Falco is viewed by many as on the American experimental rock in Belgrade this August as 16 Horsepower and Wovenhand, one of the most important names in the scene over the last decade, Kayo Dot One of the most important figures on you won’t want to miss Slim Cessna’s development of America’s garage rock have never made the same album One of the premiere names in extreme today’s alternative country and dark Auto Club’s Belgrade gig. They also scene. Another reason you shouldn’t twice. They will be on tour this sum- metal music today, Cattle Decapitation gothic rock scenes, King Dude will be come from the Mile High City and play miss this show is because Tav Falco and mer promoting their latest synth-prog are currently one of the most important stopping by Belgrade on Thursday, a similar style of alternative, goth-tinged his Panther Burns claim that this will be masterpiece Plastic House on Base death/grind bands in the world. They August 18th while festival hopping this country music. Tickets are already on their final tour. They perform on Satur- of Sky, which was heavily inspired by will be in Belgrade on Monday, August summer. Sometimes referred to as an sale and cost €12 each. The concert will day, September 10th at Dom Omladine Japanese anime soundtrack music. 15th to promote last year’s critically ac- “evil Johnny Cash”, last year’s Death take place, naturally, at Dom Omladine’s and tickets are already on sale for €12. The show will take place at Elektropi- claimed album The Anthropocene Ex- Won’t Take Me was highly praised by American Hall on Friday, September They can be purchased at the Chilton onir on Saturday, August 27th. Tickets tinction. Performing at Dom Omladine, critics and fans alike. Tickets cost €18 at www.flyflytravel.com 30th. and Brod Pub or at the Žila Shop. cost five euros. tickets cost €12 at the door. the door. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, July 22 - Thursday, September 08, 2016 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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